WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR DECEMBER 2005 =============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINES OF GREECE (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 486 pages, ISBN 1-84000-897-0, $50 hard covers) has been written by Konstantinos Lazarakis, who became the first Greek Master of Wine in 2002. He is a wine educator and consultant, based in Athens. Like all the other books in this series, there are no illustrations. The eleven maps are minimal sketch maps. Part One identifies The Background (history, wine legislation, labels, and grape varieties). Part Two is The Regions, all eleven of them: Thrace, Macedonia (one of the largest), Epirus, Thessaly, Central Greece, Ionian Islands, the Peloponnese (another large area), Cyclades Islands, Dodecanese Islands, the North Aegean, and Crete. Both Macedonia and the Peloponnese get 70 pages apiece. For each region, Lazarakis presents a discussion on climate, wine production, and the local classification of wines. The leading producers are cited, each with addresses and phone numbers and some generalized tasting notes not related to particular vintages. There is very little criticism in the book. The book concludes with a bibliography, glossary and index. Audience and level of use: wine scholars, lovers of Greek wines, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “In countries like Greece, wine has a social dimension that must be taken into account…Behind every artisan wine is an immense amount of effort.” What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): General notes about recent vintages are not quoted at all, nor is the issue of age worthiness raised. Most of the material in the appendix can easily be folded back into the text. What I do like about this book (its positives): the principal value is that there is a lot of material about Greek wines here, material not easily found elsewhere in English. Quality/Price Rating: 88. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. MOOSEWOOD RESTAURANT SIMPLE SUPPERS; fresh ideas for the weeknight table (Clarkson Potter, 2005; distr. Random House, 304 pages, ISBN 0- 609-60912-2, $45 hard covers) is by the Moosewood Collective which runs that eponymous restaurant in Ithaca, NY. This is at least their eleventh cook book; the collective claims 2 million total copies in print of all their works. Although the book is meatless, it does include fish. Chapters deal with pastas, beans and tofu, curries, salads, soups, sandwiches, main dish grains, sides (31 recipes here), condiments, spreads and desserts. The 175 recipes stress “back to basics” as the theme for the busy cook. There are ingredient substitutions to note, cooks notes and advice, a clear indication of what can be made ahead, and how to handle leftovers. Prep times are indicated, and most are 30 minutes of less (although the majority go the full distance and the occasional one is up to 45 minutes). Variations and serving ideas are copious. You’ll need a well-stocked larder for quick preps, and the pantry guide the collective presents is extremely useful to have. On the last page there are weight and metric conversion charts for the US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: beginner, vegetarians. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shortcut chili; quick avocado and corn salsa; pasta with caramelized onions and blue cheese; saucy Hungarian eggplant; Navajo stew (takes 55 minutes); rarebit risotto. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): this is a heavy, upscale-looking book for simple or fast food. What I do like about this book (its positives): good layout and incorporation of plated photos. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 3. THE POTLUCK COOKBOOK; classic recipes for any occasion (Collectors Press, 2005; distr. Ten Speed Press, 128 pages, ISBN 1-933112-14-X, $27.95 hard covers) is by Dolores Kostelni, a cookbook author, food columnist and broadcaster; she has also owned and operated two cooking schools and catering companies. This book is also useful for tailgate parties, crock-pot chili events, and summer cookouts. Here are portable classic casseroles, cookies, quick breads, oven-baked dips, enchiladas, soups, salads, desserts. It is arranged by party starters, breakfast and brunch, meat entrees, poultry entrees, veggies, desserts. Kostelni deals with menu-planning and cleanup, and while various potluck occasions are listed, there are no page references to the recipes. US volume measurements are used, but there is no table of metric equivalents. The book is useful for those people who wish to bring to the event something different from what others might bring. Audience and level of use: beginner, cookbook collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken wild rice casserole; potato casserole; deep-dish chicken pie; sloppy joes. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the index is by course, so it just repeats the regular lineup of dishes. There is no index to the ingredients. What I do like about this book (its positives): good retro cookery and cooking for a crowd. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. THE NIMAN RANCH COOKBOOK; from farm to table with America’s finest meat (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 210 pages, ISBN 1-58008-520-2, $48.95 hard covers) is by Bill Niman, a cattle rancher, and Janet Fletcher, a food writer based in Napa Valley and a multiple James Beard Award winner. Most of the book is about sustainable farming in the Bolinas area of California. The area and “sustainable” is now supported by over 500 independent family farmers raising cattle, hogs, and sheep according to Niman’s strict protocols. They are all entitled to call their butchered meats “Niman Ranch” – this helps to explain why there is so much of it around. There are only 40 recipes here, contributed by chefs who serve Niman Ranch meat (Mario Batali, Jean-Georges Vongerichten). The food section shows the different techniques for cooking meats, and also illustrates it all with meat charts and colour photos. There is a concluding bibliography and glossary. Audience and level of use: environmentalists, foodies, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pastrami sandwich (from Zimmermans), flatiron steak with anchovy vinaigrette, Danish pork burgers, drilled tri tip with black olive aioli, roasted baby back ribs, cider-glazed pork chops, posole. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): I think the book needs twice as many recipes. What I do like about this book (its positives): good detail about sustainable ranching. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 5. THE VODKA COOKBOOK (Kyle Books; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1- 904920-27-6, $24.95 hard covers) is by John Rose, an advertising executive based in Moscow. And the book is published in association with Smirnoff. The 120 recipes are good for brunches, desserts, and cocktails. The mains can usually do without vodka, although the book does allow for flavoured-vodka infusions to be used. Seafood and pasta seem to benefit from this. Of course, there is much detail on vodka (and Smirnoff) lore: history, production, obscurities. Audience and level of use: those who think that it is cute to cook with vodka. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: vodka and onion ketchup; vodka tomato salad dressing with fried tomato skins; cherry vodka fondue; Russian toast with bananas flambé and raspberry-lime vodka sauce; shashlik drenched in pomegranate and vodka. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): heavily dependant on Smirnoff product placement. What I do like about this book (its positives): delivers the goods. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 6. DOUGH; simple contemporary bread (Kyle Books; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-904920-20-9, $34.95 hard covers, and including one 30- minute DVD) is by Richard Bertinet, who trained as a baker in France before launching The Dough Co in the UK. These are basic recipes. Bertinet uses organic flours in his 100 preps (which take less than one hour each to finish). He presents five easy recipes for the basic doughs: white (plus 14 variations), olive (9 variations), brown (11), rye (8), and sweet (9 variations). Each chapter ends with some advanced concepts so that home bakers can eventually experiment with their own ideas. Many of the recipes can be part-baked and frozen, ready to finish off in the oven. This is what the big guys in the restaurants do. Each of his recipes gives quantity prep time, resting time, second rising time and baking times. Tools and ingredients are fully discussed, and there are lots of photos of techniques. He has a 30- minute demo of simple techniques of making bread on the DVD. The supplies list is all US. Both metric and imperial measurements are used. Audience and level of use: home bakers, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fougasse, bread shots (appetizers), sesame and anise breadsticks, pancetta and mixed olive bread, cardamom and prune bread. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): I don’t know whether the producers realized it or not, but there are plenty of crotch shots on the DVD behind his rolling out of the dough. He’s wearing jeans, but next time he should wear an apron: it is less distracting. Also, the DVD is not securely fitted into the book. What I do like about this book (its positives): all the ingredients are scaled (weighed). Quality/Price Rating: 84. 7. DRINKS (DK, 2005, 512 pages, ISBN 0-7566-1323-X, $65 hard covers) is by Vincent Gasnier, a Master Sommelier, who trained in France. He now runs his own consulting company. I supposed that if you had to choose one book to cover all alcoholic beverages, then this would be the one, especially since it is so widely available at a discount through such places as Amazon.Ca. Otherwise, coverage is broad and redundant. Wine is covered in 140 pages, spirits in 115 pages, beer in 98 pages, cocktails in 60 pages, and ciders in ten pages. They are arranged within their separate sections by country, with the name of the grape or product, region, a description, and a list of recommended producers. About 1000 “drinks” are covered and illustrated. There is basic stuff on buying, storing, and serving drinks, what foods they go with, and where and when to enjoy the libation. Gasnier does give a good range of tasting notes, stressing colour, aroma, and taste. Each product is illustrated by a bottle or label. There is a glossary and an index. Audience and level of use: beginner, one-book purchasers, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Bulmer’s (Strongbow) produces 65% of the cider sold in the UK, and an even higher percentage of all the UK cider exported. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): too basic, often with thumbnail sketches of the most popular brands. What I do like about this book (its positives): Value-priced, great gift book. Running heads under the page numbers (plus the pastel colours) help to quickly retrieve the name of the wine or spirit. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 8. A BAKER’S TOUR (HarperCollins, 2005, 390 pages, ISBN 0-06-058263-4, $45 hard covers) is by Nick Malgieri, a food writer and author of six other baking books – a James Beard Award winner. This is baking from around the world. More than 100 recipes come from 39 countries; many preps are sourced from other cooks. Covered are cookies, cakes, breads, and pastries. The book is a reasonably comprehensive collection of classics, ranging from the casual to the sophisticated, adapted to North American usage, along with some variations. There are cooks notes and colour photos. He has a recipe index by country with page references. For example, from Canada, he sources Bonnie Stern’s butter tarts. Tarte au sirop d’erable comes from Au Pied du Cochon in Montreal. Austria, France, Italy, and Switzerland have the most recipes; for all other countries, it is mostly some kind of “national” sweet. There’s also a bibliography and a US sources listing with websites. US volume measurements, with no metric equivalent table. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ligurian focaccia; almond coffee ring (Bern); honey cakes (Denmark); madeleines (France); linzer slices. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): all of the recipes use volume measurements, which I find odd because baking books always scale their weights. What I do like about this book (its positives): good index by ingredient name, dish name, and original language name. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 9. EMERIL’S DELMONICO; a restaurant with a past (William Morrow, 2005, 276 pages, ISBN 0-06-074046-9, $39.95 hard covers) is by celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse. He bought Delmonico Restaurant and Bar in New Orleans in 1997, and reopened it as Emeril’s Delmonico. There is no connection with the 1827 New York Delmonico – the owners (the Commanders, of Commander Palace fame) just borrowed the name in 1895. The recipes have been adapted from those used at the restaurant, for home use. The stress of the 200 preps is on rich Creole food. Sections cover libations, soups, salads, brunch, seafood, poultry, meats and sweets. There are plenty of cook notes from Emeril, and the recipes have a good layout and feel with their colour photos. But there are only two gumbo and one omelette recipes. Emeril uses US volume measurements; there is also a source guide and a list of all nine of his restaurants. And 10. GALATOIRE’S COOKBOOK; recipes and family history from the time- honored New Orleans restaurant (Clarkson Potter, 2005; distr. Random House, 272 pages, ISBN 0-307-23637-4, $50 hard covers) is by Melvin Rodrigue the COO of Galatoire’s, and Jyl Benson, a lifestyles writer who is also the restaurant’s publicist. This book is more a memento for all of the people who have eaten there in the past; page after page turns by with pictures of the wait staff, people, the restaurant – just about everything but the final plated food. The 140 recipes were published to coincide with Galatoire’s centennial; thus, there is a genealogy of the Galatoire family, archival photos, a textual history. Chef Ross Eirich has tried to produce French-Creole fare for the home cook while still maintaining an upscale air. He succeeds, but mainly because of the elegant typeface and the black and white photos. Chapters concern cocktails, appetizers, salads, one gumbo, soups, seven omelettes, eggs, fish, meat, desserts. US volume measurements are used, and most service is for six eaters. Audience and level of use: fans of the restaurants, intermediate level cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for Delmonico: absinthe frappe, oyster Bienville, frog’s legs bordelaise, asparagus and crabmeat salad on puff pastry, roasted fennel and arugula salad, pompano en papillote. For Galatoire’s: broiled pompano, grilled salmon with poached oysters and shallot cream, chicken financiere (just as I remembered it from 1975), berry Napoleon with Grand Marnier sabayon, creole bouillabaisse, shrimp and eggplant soup, shrimp remoulade, mussels saint-pierre. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): for Galatoire’s, there are way too many pictures of restaurant personnel and not enough of the food. Both books have no table of metric weights and measures equivalents. What I do like about this book (its positives): they are an entertaining history and cookbook of Galatoire’s and Delmonico. Quality/Price Rating: Delmonico gets 86 (more recipes, cheaper price), Galatoire’s gets 83. 11. SIMPLE SOIREES; seasonal menus for sensational dinner parties (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 1-58479-460-7, $49 hard covers) is by Peggy Knickerbocker, a freelance food and travel writer based in San Francisco and Paris. She was formerly a caterer. This book is her advice for creating a memorable party (or parties0 for two or more people. Her 100 recipes are arranged seasonally, beginning with spring. Many planning and prep suggestions are offered, as well as party decorations and invitations. She stresses advanced food preps of organic foods. Each soiree has a specific party plan of attack and decorating ideas: Mexican Fiesta, Provencal Spring, Greek, Spring vegetables, and the like. Her romantic dinner for two calls for Alice B. Toklas chicken (with orange juice, cream, garlicky spinach, so you’ll both have to eat it). She also has conversion charts for weights and measures to metric and Imperial equivalents. Audience and level of use: for people who need help in throwing dinner parties. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: butterflied leg of lamb stuffed with tapenade; gnafron (androuille flan); pan-fried sand dabs with aioli (you’ll need to live near San Francisco for this one); North Beach gratin of chard and salt cod; radicchio salad with roasted walnuts and parmesan; minced chicken in lettuce cups. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the sources list is for only six items plus cheese, all US. She also needs more wine notes. What I do like about this book (its positives): she has a good brining recipe. The index has an indication of which preps have a photo. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. SMALL BITES; tapas, sushi, mezzo, antipasti, and other finger foods (DK, 2005, 224 pages, ISBN 0-7566-1347-7, $27 hard covers) is by Jennifer Joyce, a cookbook author. Most of these preps can be done 24 hours in advance. Topics include fried bites (with a Latin subsection), soups, salads, skewers (largely Middle East), meat, fish, veggies, sweets, plus a section on wrapped – tied – rolled. Supplementary recipes cover sauces and garnishes. Recipes have an indication of what food can serve as partners, with page references (e.g. pea and shrimp samosas go with tomato and ginger soup or tandoori chicken thighs. To complete the picture, Joyce gives us suggested menus for each major topic, with time lines of preparation (two days before, the night before, in the morning, one hour before, half an hour before, at the last minute). Recipes have both volume and metric measurements for all ingredients, prep times and cooking times. The sources list has web addresses for cheeses and spices. Audience and level of use: intermediate. Some good ideas here for caterers and restaurants willing to expand their appetizer offerings. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: crispy vegetable pakoras; Thai corn fritters; mushroom and chestnut soup; smoky eggplant puree; garbanzo and pomegranate dip; glass noodle salad. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): too many fried foods for me. Also, beverage notes would have been useful. What I do like about this book (its positives): there are detailed instructions with plenty of leading for eye relief. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 13. ARTISANAL COOKING; a chef shares his passion for handcrafting great meals at home (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 326 pages, ISBN 0-7645-6822-1, $45.99 hard covers) is by Terrance Brennan, owner-chef of many restaurants and TV personality. He also owns the Artisanal Premium Cheese Center. Andrew Friedman is the experienced food focusing co- author. The stress here is “pride” in what you create. Brennan does want you to be flexible and spontaneous, but there are a few basic principles stressed, such as “read the recipe through first” or “have a large pantry”. Each of the 150 recipes has a set of cook’s notes for techniques and cooking terms. Variations and embellishments are also noted. As with most cookbooks, the arrangement is by course. Overall, more cheese is used than one would normally find in a cookbook. There is a US sources list with websites, and it is interesting to note that some of these people sell their own cookbooks. US volume measurements are used, and there is no table of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: celebrity cookbook collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: scallops ceviche with avocado; venison au poivre with red cabbage confit; spring vegetable salad with parmesan tuille and herb vinaigrette; grilled tuna with basil aioli and raw tomato coulis; chicken curry with basmati rice and figs. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there is a whole section on “hors d’oeuvre” but the word is misspelled on every page between p42 and p92. Despite his plea for attention to detail in each recipe, there needs to be attention to detail in the book. A definition of artisanal is “attention to detail”. What I do like about this book (its positives): the ingredients are listed in the recipes as “all caps”, a nice feature. Condiments and garnishes are all listed together with page references. In fact, there is good use of page referencing throughout this book. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 14. REAL FOOD – FAST (Headline, 2005; distr. McArthur, 223 pages, ISBN 0-7553-1308-9, $39.95 hard covers) is by Mary Berry, a UK writer who has written some three dozen cookbooks as well as appearing the BBC. She is an expert on Aga cookery. In fact, this book had advice for the Aga user, in re-positioning some of the food techniques. On p.9 she says “Something on the Aga can be brought to the boil on the boiling plate, then simmered on the simmering plate. But if that simmering is to continue for more than a few minutes, the Aga cook would be better putting the dish in the simmering oven. This will take longer than simmering on the top, but…there is no danger of anything boiling over, and there are no kitchen smells.” What it all boils down to is the philosophical notion: what is a few minutes? All courses are covered, from apps to puddings. Both metric and Imperial measurements are used. Audience and level of use: largely British Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: quail’s egg and hollandaise mini-tartlets; pea, horseradish and coriander soup; smoked duck salad with oriental sauce; Thai shiitake chicken; antipasto of smoked fish and prawns; raspberry and almond trifle. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): I’ve no idea why the book is available in North America, for it is too British. What I do like about this book (its positives): the principal ingredients are listed in boldface in the index. The recipes include Aga cooking times. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 15. THE WINE BOOK; change the way you think about wine (Headline, 2005; distr. McArthur, 306 pages, ISBN 0-7553-1367-4, $39.95 hard covers) has been written by Matthew Jukes, UK wine writer for the Daily Mail. He is also the author of the annual The Wine List, which summarizes good buys in the UK. Jukes covers the basics (how to taste, what grape varietals are all about, how to buy in the UK, and wine regions of the world. Much more satisfying details cane be found at his website www.matthewjukes.com. He has the usual vintage charts, glossaries of terms for viticulture, vinification, and tasting, plus an index. Audience and level of use: beginner level, residents of UK. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: There is one paragraph on Canada, and it is generally correct except for the mention on vidal wines. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): $40 is a lot to pay for a basic book, particularly since it is meant for the UK market. There are also no real maps. What I do like about this book (its positives): competent. Quality/Price Rating: 78. 16. SARA’S SECRETS FOR WEEKNIGHT MEALS (Broadway Books, 2005; distr. Random House, 358 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1659-X, $42 hard covers) is by Sara Moulton, host of a food show on the Food Network as well as Executive Editor of Gourmet magazine. These are all fast, tasty, and healthy weeknight entrees. Apparently, her fans have been after her for years to produce such a simple book. The 200 recipes here are her versions of classics and of popular ethnic dishes. In addition, the book is rounded out with salads and sides. The key, like many similar books, is to have a well-stocked larder or pantry with plenty of staples. Another key is to cook slowly, which can be accomplished by starting in the morning. All of the recipes include prep and cooking times plus side dish suggestions. Her cook notes are full of anecdotes. Her prep times are 45 minutes or less, although times may vary depending on your speed of work and chopping skills. The range of foods include make aheads, entrée salads, substantial sandwiches, hearty thick soups, breakfast food for dinner, leftover usage, and multi- ingredient pastas. Audience and level of use: celebrity chef, intermediate level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: creamy cauliflower soup with chorizo and greens, soba noodle and chicken salad, brie and bacon and spaghetti frittata, orzo and basmati pilaf with spring vegetables ragout, baked risotto with red wine and sweet potatoes and duck confit, spinach and ricotta calzones. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the colourful typeface used for each recipe is deliberately lightened for the listing of ingredients: you cannot photocopy it! Despite copyright issues, to me, this is a nuisance because I never like to cook from a book: it gets stained, splattered, with cracked spines, ripped and torn. I always make a “fair use” photocopy and cook from that. What I do like about this book (its positives): She has a good general principle: you can take any plate and enlarge it to make a full meal out of it, lessening the actual number of courses you need to have. To which I would add: serve plenty of wine so that your guests absorb those extra calories. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 17. COCKTAILS SHAKEN AND STIRRED (Kyle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-904920-22-5, $24.95 hard covers) is by Douglas Ankrah, a UK bar owner, drink consultant, and spirits educator. He runs LAB and Townhouse in London UK. Here are the usual basics (glassware, equipment, methods of stirring and layering and blending and pouring and shaking and muddling and bashing, use of ice and garnishes. There is detail on stocking the bar with syrups and purees. The book is certainly useful for a large party or restaurant, but I just can’t see it happening for occasional use at home. There are about two recipes per page, say 100 in all, and many are claimed to be unique – even though some copyright details may be missing. Audience and level of use: intermediate level Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the foods recipes include rare blackened beef with pesto, seared sesame tuna with wasabi yogurt dip, diverse crostini, baked new potatoes with caviar and cream cheese, broiled asparagus with prosciutto, fried calamari, walnuts and stilton. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the index has no ingredient lists. What I do like about this book (its positives): the garnishes are really fancy in this book. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 18. LA PORTE DES INDES COOKBOOK (Pavilion, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-86205-643-9, $48 hard covers) is by Mehernosh and Sherin Mody (chef and owner, respectively, of the eponymous UK restaurant), with John Hellon as the focusing co-author. This is French creole cuisine of Pondichery, a blend of French and Indian ingredients. The French had control of this region (southeast coast, south of Madras, north of Sri Lanka) from 1670 through 1954. The 80 recipes here are a collection of cultural favourites, regional specialties, and some original dishes, all arranged by course. There are preps for breads, chutneys, and teas. Four heat levels are indicated (0 to 3). There are notes on pantry management. The Modys use both Imperial and metric measurements in the list of ingredients. More details are available at www.laportedesindes.com. Audience and level of use: restaurant cookbook collectors, adventuresome cooks of Indian food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chai masala (can also be a mousse); chard and water chestnut pakora; crab Malabar; scallops in saffron sauce; lamb and herb kebabs; seafood stew (cassoulet de fruits de mer). What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): tiny print for the ingredient list. What I do like about this book (its positives): there are two pages of wine and food matching, but the obvious best is any aromatic white. The index is trilingual: local words, French and English. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 19. SOUP KITCHEN (HarperCollins, 2005, 224 pages, ISBN 0-00-720540-6, $39.95 hard covers) has been edited by Annabel Buckingham and Thomasina Miers. They have collected recipes from top UK chefs and food writers, such as Delia Smith, Jamie Oliver, Anton Mosimann, Gordon Ramsay, and Michel Roux Jr., and they have credited all of them. Of the 100 recipes, some are from existing cookbooks. The chapters are arranged by season, with a section on “all year”. The editors have ensured that there are also recipes for stocks and breads. “Soup Kitchen” does, of course, have a distinctly British orientation. Audience and level of use: beginner level. The book is also a charity fundraiser. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: squash and shrimp soup with nutmeg; Jerusalem artichoke and parmesan soup; root soup with cheese scones; cauliflower and potato spice soup; smoked haddock and shrimp chowder; spring vegetable soup with bacon dumplings. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the index is in black ink on a purple background, making it difficult to read. What I do like about this book (its positives): there are superb comments from the chefs, e.g., “probably serves 4 really greedy bastards or 8 nancies as a starter”. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 20. BONES; recipes, history, and lore (William Morrow, 2005, 257 pages, ISBN 0-06-058537-4, $45 hard covers) is by Jennifer McLagan, an Australian chef now based in Toronto. This is basically a slow food book since it involves cooking flesh on the bone, often to the point where the flesh is “off” the bone. It is arranged by animal. For each, McLagen explains the differences in cuts of meat, presents a range of stocks and soups, suggests approaches to roasting, and then proceeds with preps for chops, steaks and ribs. There are plenty of cook’s notes and sidebars. The colour photo section has page references to the recipe. Each prep uses both metric and volume measurements for each ingredient. She concludes with a short bibliography of suggested readings (books and periodical articles). Audience and level of use: meat lovers, slow food movement. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted veal chops with Madeira and parsnips; short ribs in wine and balsamic sauce; roasted marrow bones; Chinese-style oxtail; orange-Compari-braised pork shoulder. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): There could have been some wine notes since flesh seems to be the perfect food-wine match. There is an overly long three pages of acknowledgements and thanks. This seems to be the regular thing these days. Last year, there were many books with a full page, but this year, it seems to have crept up to at least two, and here, three. Is this really necessary? Of course, this takes nothing away from the food and recipes, but still… What I do like about this book (its positives): extensive ingredient index. This book is a very useful contribution to the cookbook scene. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 21. THE CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY DIET; the indulgent approach to managing your weight (Quill Driver Books, 2006; distr. by University of Toronto Press, 368 pages, ISBN 1-884956-48-3, $36.95 hard covers) is largely by Haven Logan, a psychotherapist with a Ph.D., with the consulting help of Sharon Stewart, R.D., for the nutritional and exercise content of the book. Logan is concerned with the main framework and the motivation (to take you through the process of losing weight and keeping it off, a sort of hand holding), while Stewart (who is not mentioned at all on the promo sheets) deals with the nitty gritty of balanced meals and some fitness programs. Part One of the book deals with six aspects of weight management (known as the six spokes of the Wheel). For those of you not tuned into the California lifestyle, you’ll need to know that ANY mantra or chakra treatment demands a “wheel” image of some kind. Build the “wheel” and they will come! Part Two is the implementation of your own diet and physical activity, plus other aspects of the remaining four spokes. There are three weeks of suggested daily food plans for three calorie levels (1200, 1600, and 2000 calories) based on USDA 2005 dietary guidelines. You can use up to 15% of these calories for pleasure foods, which this book wants you to sink into wine. For women, the USDA says 5 ounces a day; for men, that figure climbs to 10 ounces, with twice the calories. If you don’t drink, you could choose bittersweet chocolate. Or potato chips, cheesecake, brownies, cookies, cream, croissant: not more than 15% of the total per day. But that 15% wiggle room is very important, and makes you feel good. She claims that the “art of conscious indulgence” will stop yo-yo dieting. If you choose not to drink wine, then the rest of the book means nothing to you. There are some two dozen commonsense recipes, based on California wine country cuisine such as black bean burritos, broiled lamb chops, penne, salads, walnuts and walnut oil. And an additional 41 upscale recipes from local restaurants and inns (Benbow Inn, Patrona Bistro, Fetzer Vineyards Café, John Ash, et al.). There are end notes, bibliography, website listing, and extremely small typeface for the index. You’ll need to pay attention to details, follow the prescriptive tables, and don’t wander. It also helps to live in California. Audience and level of use: those who need to lose weight, people who live in or near California. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: on page 348, the Wheel of Weight-Management has six spokes: Nutrition (I am giving myself the foods I need to nourish my body), Activity (I am enjoying an active life), Practicality (I am simplifying my life through practicality), Pleasure (I am slowing down and taking time to enjoy my life), Relationships (My relationship with myself enhances my relationship with others), and Variety (My life continues to unfold in new and exciting ways as I embrace variety). And that, I think, is all you really need to know. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): diet or not, wine is an indulgence, and counts as 15% of your play calories. You don’t need to drink wine to lose weight, thus obviating the whole selling point of this book. Also, there is no getting away from the fact that you are going to have to do more physical activity than before if you are serious about losing weight and keeping it off. There is no getting around this, and that’s why you’ll need a motivational psychotherapist. What I do like about this book (its positives): lots of motivation here. For the serious dieter, there are copious tables and charts to fill in to monitor your progress. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 22. THE FOOD SUBSTITUTIONS BIBLE; more than 5000 substitutions for ingredients, equipment & techniques (Robert Rose, 2005, 621 pages, ISBN 0-7788-0119-5, $24.95 paper covers) has been compiled by David Joachim who has authored, edited or collaborated on more than 25 cookbooks. This is a pretty solid reference book emphasizing, through 1500 complete entries, more than 5000 reasonably approximate substitutions – all of it cross-referenced and arranged alphabetically. The ingredients are listed with both Imperial and metric measurements. There are 125 recipes for larder type items (sauces, stocks, spice mixes, herb blends, syrups, flavoured butters, cheese, dips, spreads, relishes, and beverages). There are handy reference charts for metric equivalents, high altitude cooking, stages of cooked sugar, pan sizes. There are ingredient tables for edible flowers, types of salts and vinegars, oil substitutions, picking apples and pears, dried beans and lentils, olives, mushrooms, potatoes, chilies, flours, and rice. He has useful website listings and a bibliography. Audience and level of use: all chefs and cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: There are two pages of substitutions on butter. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): if you use the book a lot, the binding may suffer. What I do like about this book (its positives): serves as a great crutch when you realize that your pantry is currently bare. Quality/Price Rating: 89. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR NOVEMBER 2005 =============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WORLD’S GREATEST WINE ESTATES; a modern perspective (Simon & Schuster, 2005, 708 pages, ISBN 0-7432-3771-4, $99 hard covers) is by well-known wine writer Robert M. Parker, Jr. It is his first “illustrated” book. Normally, Parker styles himself as a consumer advocate while tasting wines. But this is a personal tour of some favourite wine producers and their memorable wines. 156 estates are covered, with producers from all continents. But there is nobody from Canada. Oregon and Chile also have no representatives; Catena Zapata is the lone Argentine entry. California has 22, Australia has 8, and Italy has 22. The three from Portugal are mainly ports with some Douro table wines. The rest is almost all France. Several pages are devoted to each estate, with the usual directory of names and numbers, visiting policy, a note on vineyards and winemaking styles, production, and notes on recent vintages. These are followed by anecdotes and ownership histories. There is a picture of the estate and some people. Parker then gives his tasting notes on representative recent wines, along with their Parker Points, usually above 95. There are also some tasting notes from the ubiquitous Pierre Antoine Rovani. At some point you may want to know where you can buy these wines. Auctions appear to be the only place, for the wines are made in minuscule amounts of 400 to 2500 cases for the entire world. The book concludes with a glossary. Audience and level of use: the traveler or collector who wishes to follow in Parker’s footsteps. Some interesting or unusual facts: There is a section on “Future Stars”: some wine producer prospects to think about (But I’d imagine that Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou couldn’t be too thrilled at seeing their listing here at this point). Parker calls globalization “the wine world’s biggest myth”, an idea created by the “pleasure police” What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): is Parker getting more cranky, or is it just my imagination? Except for fresh and fruity whites, the vintage notes come from the 1990s. What I do like about this book (its positives): there is a terrific essay on defining greatness in a wine. Quality/Price Rating: 88. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. CHOCOLATE CHOCOLATE (John Wiley and Sons, 2005, 496 pages, ISBN 0- 471-42807-8. $58.99 hard covers) is by Lisa Yockelson, a James Beard nominee and IACP winner for her book “Baking with Flavor”. She is a baking journalist appearing in many newspapers and magazines in the US. Her book is fairly comprehensive, with more than 200 recipes and many essays. The 21 chapters are all arranged by theme. There is a discourse on chocolate and a reference section for techniques and a pantry. The chapters cover brownie-styles through cakes, chips, chunks, nuts, toffee, breads, layered chocolate, pancakes, crunches, dark and bitter- sweet chocolate, flourless cooking, cookies, and liquid chocolate. She says, “Each recipe is accompanied by a description, a procedure, and, as appropriate, an assortment of end notes: style, accent, study, and element.” Here, one can produce variations and learn new techniques. One recipe can be used in another (such as the chocolate fudge sauce that can be used as an undercoating or topping for some cakes). Through tables and photos, the different kinds of chocolate are identified and explained as to what is available in the market place (she lists 105 different kinds). She has a section on storing and freezing chocolate baked goods, again with relevant tables. More charts are given for compatibility, availability, harmony, intensity levels, and storage. Unfortunately for us in Canada, all of her sources of supply are US. There is also a concluding bibliography. Audience and level of use: chocolate fanatics, restaurants, cooking schools, chef programs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bittersweet chocolate brownies; chunky chocolate-covered coconut candy cookies; dense chocolate-walnut cake; sour-cream milk chocolate chip pound cake; French chocolate cake; double chocolate-coconut heavens (don’t ask) What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): frightfully heavy in size. And surprisingly, since it is such a thoroughly comprehensive reference book, there are NO metric equivalent tables! Page 65 would have been a place to have it. What I do like about this book (its positives): there are chocolate compatibility charts (nuts, fruit, dairy). The book is comprehensive and definitive. Quality/Price Rating: 93. 3. GOOSE FAT & GARLIC; country recipes from South-West France (Kyle Cathie, 2003; distr. Raincoast, 342 pages, ISBN 1-85626-536-6, $19.95 paper covers) is by Jeanne Strang, one of the early editors of “The Good Food Guide”. She and her husband Paul bought a house in South-West France 40 years ago. This book was originally published in 1991; this is a decennial revision. It covers Gascony, the Perigord, Basque, and Languedoc – as does Wolfert (see next review). Most of the recipes remain the same, with some updating in light of the increased tourism and relocation to the area. Strang, having lived in the Southwest, promotes the region’s rustic “country recipes” with a strong development of terroir with the prep’s local foods and ingredients. All the classics are here, emphasizing not butter nor olive oil but rather poultry fat. She also has many historical and anecdotal references; this is a book to read in bed (it is fairly light since it is a paperback). Much of this food is available for export, in the form of tinned goods, jars, frozen packs, vacuum packed (“sous vide”), dried, and so forth. But Strang doesn’t write much about these forms. She does have an interesting appendix of regulations controlling tinned foie gras. There is a concluding glossary and bibliography, and it should be noted that neither Wolfert nor Strang mention the other writer’s book in their respective bibliography. Audience and level of use: cookbook collectors Some interesting or unusual recipes: salsify in sauce; pig’s liver with piquant sauce; omelettes; pork and spinach and prunes in batter (le pounti); stuffed shoulder of lamb; country ham. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the section on wines is very slight; she gives more details on liqueurs and marc. What I do like about this book (its positives): Each ingredient listed in each recipe has volume/weights measurements in both British and metric terms. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 4. THE COOKING OF SOUTHWEST FRANCE. Completely Updated (John Wiley, 2005, 455 pages, ISBN 0-7645-7602-X, $48.99 hard covers) is by Paula Wolfert, well-known cookbook author specializing in Mediterranean food. It was first published in 1983, and this is its first major updated edition. The 1983 book (which I already owned and used for comparison) employs more fat: just check the cassoulet recipe. The duck confit prep has been overhauled, and to make room for more food stuffs, the quail and pheasant recipes have been dropped. The 200 recipes here are accompanied by anecdotal stories, along with helpful cook notes, definitions, and wine notes. The English title of the recipe goes first, followed by the French name. There are separate chapters on soups, goose/duck, cassoulet, and liver items. Some recipes come from French chefs who practice Southwest French-style cooking. All of the measurements are by US volume, and unfortunately there are no tables of metric equivalents. Wolfert also lists only URLs for web mail order sources of the food producers. The bibliography fails to mention Strang’s book (that’s ok, since Strang fails to mention Wolfert’s book!) Audience and level of use: French cookery lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: steamed mussels with ham shallots and garlic; baby chicken with lemon-garlic sauce; fried cornmeal porridge cake; strawberries with peppercorns and red wine; roast figs; veal kidneys. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the index is mostly by English name. What I do like about this book (its positives): Wolfert tackles “sous vide” which Strang does not. The book is set in larger type with plenty of leading, which is pleasing in the kitchen. There is a separate index to recipes by region and course. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 5. HARMONY ON THE PALATE; matching simple recipes to everyday wine styles (Whitecap, 2005, 192 pages, ISBN 1-55285-701-8, $29.95 paper covers) is by my Wine Writer Circle of Canada colleague Shari Darling, wine author and educator, publishing in newspapers, magazines and broadcasting as well. The emphasis is on food pairing, and each prep here must match a wine (and vice versa). Part One details the technical basis for pairing food and wine, and Part Two has the simple food recipes and wine notes, and is arranged by “everyday” wine styles. There are 11 of these, beginning with sparklers and moving through crisp dry whites, big fat whites, various styles of reds, late harvest wines, ice wines, and ports. Each chapter is headed with a Harmony Chart where both food affinities and food challenges are spelled out, as well as complementary cuisines, seasons of the year, methods of preparation, and uses at ideal occasions. The ingredients are listed in both North American style and in metric. The first 20 pages deal with her three building block principles (all copyrighted 2004: match similar building blocks; offset dissimilar building block; and wine should be more pronounced than food). Each recipe comes with wine notes outlining the building blocks and the flavours. For more information, check out her website www.sophisticatedwino.com. Audience and level of use: sophisticated learners willing to improve their wine skills. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Chinese rice-studded meatballs with lime dipping sauce; marinated chevre with sundried tomatoes and roasted garlic; veloute soup of fiddleheads and oka; lamb stuffed with spinach and triple crème; chicken and androuille jambalaya. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): I’d like her thoughts on Thanksgiving/Christmas dinners with its multitude of birds and stuffings and accompaniments. There are no turkey recipes here, except for Tex-Mex turkey burgers. Also, I think she needed two different tongue models to illustrate the super-taster and the non- taster tongue. What I do like about this book (its positives): the index has been well-developed. This is a good, solid work. Quality/Price Rating: 91. 6. SOUP. Rev. ed. (Kyle Cathie, 2003, distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-85626-506-4, $24.95 paper covers) is by Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton. It was first published in 1999 by these owners of the UK SoupWorks restaurants. These are international classic soups, along with some fusion ideas, as featured from time to time in their restos. It is arranged by country and region. The authors use symbols in the recipes, such as V for vegetarian, L for low fat, D for dairy free, G for gluten-free, and N for “contains nuts”. Some recipe have more than one symbol. The book is easy to use, with about one or two recipes on a page. Both metric and avoirdupois measurements are on the same page. There are also recipes for stocks and breads. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spicy lobster bisque; cream of shitake mushroom; sweet potato, coconut, and chicken soup; cucumber and mango bisque; peanut and cabbage; cream of pumpkin with coconut. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): index is only by name of the soup, and not by ingredient. What I do like about this book (its positives): the index breaks out vegetarian soups, fruit soups, and chilled soups. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 7. WINTER FOOD; seasonal recipes for the colder months (Kyle Cathie, 2005, 192 pages, ISBN 1-85626-562-5, $39.95 hard covers) is by Jill Norman, an award-winning British food and wine writer and editor with many cookbooks and food books under her belt. These 150 recipes emphasize some old favourites of warming foods and spices such as cauliflower, cabbages, parsnips and other root veggies. Persimmons and pomegranates are used for accents. The harvest time is emphasized, with recipes for squash, celeriac, chestnuts, quinces, as well as geese and game, fish and shellfish. The recipes come from everywhere: northern US, the plateaus of Turkey and Spain, the Andes, Italian mountain villages, China, Russia, Scandinavia. Her tourtiere from Quebec is based on an Alsatian Tourte de la Valle de Munster, substituting bread for potato. Also: in a stunning reversal of cookbook trends, metric measurements are used in the recipe, and there is a table of Imperial equivalents. Audience and level of use: home cooks, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chocolate walnut torte; red peppers with anchovies and olives; wrinkled potatoes with mojo (sauce originally from the Canaries); Russian Georgian cheese bread; bean, pumpkin and sausage casserole; winter vegetable tart. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there is a distinct British orientation, such as in the game section. What I do like about this book (its positives): it is nice to know that there is more to winter food than just stews. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. DAMON LEE FOWLER’S NEW SOUTHERN BAKING; classic flavors for today’s cooks (Simon & Schuster, 2005, 360 pages, ISBN 0-7432-5058-3, $36 hard covers) is by the author of often-nominated cookbooks dealing with the Deep South, covering contemporary cooking, fried chicken, beans and greens, and fruits. Here, he delves into 150 baking classics with variations. Along the way he presents some personal essays dealing with culture and historical perspectives. He bemoans the lack of “mama’s bread”: mama is no longer baking in the kitchen – in fact, she’s not even at home since she is out working. Fowler also has a history of southern baking and an essay on the “art” of toasting. Some of his discussions concern southern US wheat and its sources, the various types of pork fats (and sources of pork fats), and also bourbon vanilla and its sources. Strewn throughout the recipes are cook notes on baking. He concludes with a bibliography of books and articles. US volume measurements are employed but there is a table of metric equivalents. Fruit pies and fruit cakes are excluded because they can be found elsewhere. Thus, there is no recipe here for lemon meringue pie. Audience and level of use: bakers, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: skillet cornbread; herbed skillet rice bread; classic southern wheat bread; sweet potato corn muffins; congo squares (pecan bar cookies); and key lime pie. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): it’s okay, it seems to fulfill its function. What I do like about this book (its positives): extensive index. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 9. BEER SCHOOL (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 288 pages, ISBN 0-471-73512-4, $29.99 hard covers) is by Steve Hindy and Tom Potter, founders of the Brooklyn Brewery (1987). The two neighbours (one a banker, the other a journalist) decided to quit their jobs and open a brewery. The start was a kitchen in a brownstone and $500,000. The hard challenge was building a sales-driven manufacturing company from scratch in the centre of New York City. The book looks at the business side of the industry of microbreweries. With very good plans for those wishing to start their own brewery, the book has applications to Canada. The practical lessons on starting a business also concentrate on managing expectations and growth. You’ll need to create a business plan, get financing, use guerilla marketing and publicity techniques, involve the community, and motivate the employees. Oh, yes, you’ll also need a few beer recipes. After partnering on events and networking for opportunities, you can cash out (as they did at the end of 2004) and then write a book about it. Audience and level of use: entrepreneurs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “There were fewer than a dozen new breweries on the East Coast in 1987, but each was operating with a different philosophy and business model” What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there are no recipes nor tasting notes. What I do like about this book (its positives): good business book. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. WEEKENDS WITH FRIENDS; cooking and entertaining at home (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-948-5, $34.95 hard covers) is by Maxine Clarke, a UK food writer who had authored “Trattoria” published by the same firm. The material is meant for home entertaining when friends stay over a weekend. The chapters cover party food, brunch and snacks, liquid refreshments, plus the progression of a meal (starters, mains, vegetables, desserts). She lists the Ten Golden Rules for Entertaining (well-stocked pantry, delegate, cook known dishes, and others). While Clarke has a menu planner, she doesn’t give any page references. There is a small section on sauces and pastes. US volume measurements are used, with conversion charts at the end. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lemon curd tartlets; mixed nut molasses tart; mango mousse; chicken liver parfait with bitter orange and onion chutney; whole poached salmon; paella; Mexican pork and beans. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): for the price, it could have been bigger. What I do like about this book (its positives): good presentation and layout. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 11. CHEF, INTERRUPTED; delicious chefs’ recipes that you can actually make at home (Clarkson Potter, 2005; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5440-0, $48.50 hard covers) has been put together by Melissa Clark, a cookbook author and food writer. The idea is a good one for the new cook or the home cook: take a dish or two from top chefs in the US and strip them of hard-to-find ingredients and difficult preps. She substitutes more common ingredients and use- friendly techniques. BUT the cook still needs some advance planning for it all to work. Prep times are about an hour or so, plus additional time may be need for marinating or chilling. Also, skills levels need to be addressed; this could add or subtract from the prep time. In this book you will find knock offs of dishes created by Marcus Samuelsson (of Aquavit), Charlie Trotter, Mario Batali (who has his own line of simplified cookbooks), Alain Ducasse, Bobby Flay. Most of the chefs are male – until you get to the desserts. Then, they are mostly female. All courses, from apps to nuts are covered. She gives lots of explanations for her changes in every recipe. There are interviews and cook notes from the originating chefs, tips, replacement advice, and the like. US volume measurements are used, but there is a conversion chart for metric AND Imperial equivalents. Audience and level of use: definite home use. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grapevine leaf wrapped goat cheese with olives and grilled sourdough (from Melissa Kelly, Primo in Maine); asparagus and potato salad with tarragon-riesling vinaigrette (David Bouley of Danube); braised Basque chicken with tomatoes and paprika (Daniel Boulard of Daniel); roasted cinnamon gelato with sherried raisins (Meredith Kuntzman of Otto Enoteca Pizzeria). What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): in general, I don’t like dumbing down. And this is the second such book this season: Mark Bittman had the other one (Mark Bittman Takes On America’s Chefs)…Do I see a trend??? At least in Bittman’s book, he had the original AND the remake recipe. There are also many gratuitous black and white photos, many with the author just looking at something or someone. What I do like about this book (its positives): colour photo section is interesting. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 12. PORTERS ENGLISH COOKERY BIBLE Ancient and Modern, (Robson Books, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 288 pages, ISBN 1-86105-737-7, $32.50 hard covers) is by Richard, Earl of Bradford (founder of Porter’s English Restaurant in 1979) and Carol Wilson, a UK food writer specializing in regional recipes and culinary history. This is distinctive English culinary cultural heritage. The book is a collection of the more popular dishes served in the restaurant, such as spotted dick, steak Guinness and mushroom pie, and wild board and sage sausage. It all looks and tastes authentic. The 100 recipes reflect homemade English food. Along the way there is historical text on food and culture, as well as diversions into savoury pies and puddings, afternoon tea, seasonal celebrations (Christmas, Shrove Tuesday, Good Friday). Both metric and Imperial measurements are used for each ingredient. There are cook notes and side bars. Audience and level of use: the historically curious cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: breaded mushrooms and blue cheese dip; potted foods; spiced parsnip and apple soup; browned onion, ale and cheddar cheese soup; spicy lentil, bean and vegetable pie; baked quince; faggots. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): not much, it pretty well does what it says it will do. What I do like about this book (its positives): very useful book Quality/Price Rating: 90. 13. THE ARAB TABLE; recipes and culinary traditions (William Morrow, 2005, 369 pages, ISBN 0-06-058614-1, $45 hard covers) is by May Bsisu, who specializes in the old country style food of her Palestinian heritage. The book is encyclopedic in scope, with 188 defining recipes for Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and Syria. These range from everyday meals to holiday feasts, such as the month long celebration of Ramadan and the Christmas menu for the Christians in Lebanon. There are essays and menus for all the principal holidays. As well, there is an essay on the food similarities and differences between the countries in the Middle East. The range is from light soups, salads, through mains and desserts with material on mezza. The source list is all US, and there is an index to both the English and Arabic ingredient names used in the recipes. Audience and level of use: cookbook collectors, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Lebanese couscous; tahini onion sauce; eggplant with toasted bread pomegranate syrup; orange lentil soup; oregano salad; rosewater-scented chicken with saffron rice. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there are no page references for the recipes in the menus. What I do like about this book (its positives): She has plenty of cook notes for the ingredients. There are colour photos for the final preps with page references to the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14.KEEPING IT SIMPLE (Penguin Michael Joseph, 2005, 416 pages, ISBN 0- 718-14621-2, $49 hard covers) is by Gary Rhodes, a multiple UK cookbook author and chef-owner who is firmly focused on “new British cuisine”. These 180 recipes cover the basics, a sort of UK version of the Mark Bittman approach to stripping down complex chef recipes. Chapters are arranged by food (fish, seafood, poultry, pork, lamb, beef, veggies, pasta, eggs, desserts). In common with many of these KISS books (Keep It Simple, Stupid) a larger than normal larder must be maintained, with many more items on the shelf, in the fridge, and in the freezer. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but preservatives do mount up. Audience and level of use: beginner, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: simple sauces for seafood; toasted sea bass and orange with basil yoghurt; sticky pork chops with toasted sesame spinach; pear red cabbage; pasta with spinach and melting brie; rice pudding with toasted honey plums. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): in general, I personally don’t like dumbing down books, but others might. This book is also really, really heavy in weight and (consequently) in price. What I do like about this book (its positives): for us in Canada, the measurements are mostly in metric. Quality/Price Rating: 81 15. SEASONS; a year of great tastes (DK, 2005, 224 pages, ISBN 0-7566- 1403, $32 hard covers) is a collection of 120 recipes celebrating all of the seasons. The recipes and photographs were first published in “Waitrose Food Illustrated”, and range from two from Nigella Lawson through 63 from Sybil Kapoor (in fact, she gets her own copyright notice). Arrangement is, of course, by the season, and the principle is basic: pick simple ingredients when ripe and plentiful. Both traditional and international recipes are used, emphasizing spring shoots, colourful summer berries, autumn roots, and winter stews: asparagus and chervil soup (first recipe in the book) to pomegranate mini-pavlovas (last recipe). Quantities, prep times, cooking times, and presentation ideas are all given in each recipe (one recipe to a page, with a decent photo). Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: braised coriander pork with lemon; French apple tarts; country pate; feta and watermelon salad; fruit tartlets. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there are no metric tables for the conversions of weights and volumes. Some metric is used in each recipe (principally for weights). What I do like about this book (its positives): basic book Quality/Price Rating: 83. 16. COGNAC (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 176 pages, ISBN 1- 84000-902-0, $50 hard covers) is by Nicholas Faith, who had recently written an award winning Classic Wine Library book on Cognac for Mitchell Beazley. This particular book serves as an illustrated guide, a picture book for the coffee table. Part One is the history, production, and the town of Cognac itself. It deals with the marketing and selling of Cognac, particularly of the past 30 years. Part Two describes how to enjoy drinking Cognac (it also comes with cocktail recipes) and styles of glasses to nose. There are even notes for matching with cigars. Part Three is a useful 28 page directory with profiles of over 100 cognacs, and many of these have label reproductions and tasting notes, as well as the usual names and numbers for visits. An asterisk indicates that the Cognac is one of Faith’s personal favourites. Audience and level of use: a memento for the traveler or aficionado. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “The traveler is made aware of Cognac’s most famous product well before reaching the town, for the roads all around are lined with endless placards bearing the names of famous brands, and rather rougher signs promoting the innumerable individuals who sell their own cognacs.” What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): slickly done. What I do like about this book (its positives): there are some maps, and this book nicely complements his other, non-illustrated book on Cognac from the same publisher. Quality/Price Rating: 85 17.. THE BAR; a spirited guide to cocktail alchemy (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 192 pages, ISBN 1-58008-682-9, $23.95 paper covers) is by Olivier Said and James Mellgren, both restaurateurs of long standing. They had previously authored “Cesar; recipes from a tapas bar” which was a top cookbook from 2004. This current book is a basic bar book, with 96 recipes. They present historical information plus anecdotes from bartenders around the world. They try to describe how best to enjoy each particular spirit or drink. Material is updated by their website www.whoisitanyway.com. At the end, there is a bibliography. Audience and level of use: beginners, urban professionals into (mostly) white spirits. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: A good bar is hard to find… What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): do we really need another bar guide? I wanted this book to tell me a few new things. What I do like about this book (its positives): there is a good section on bitters. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 18. MEXCIAN EVERYDAY (W.W.Norton, 2005, 336 pages, ISBN 0-393-06154-X, $42 hard covers) is by Rick Bayless and his wife Deann Groen Bayless. These recipes have been featured on Season 4 of the PBS series “Mexico One Plate at a Time”. The Bayless team has produced five other Mexican cookbooks (all of them are on my cookbook shelves) plus innumerable articles. They also own two outstanding Mexican restaurants in Chicago. These 90 recipes are for the home cook. “Everyday” means (a) less than 30 minutes involvement; (b) fresh tasting; and (c) nutritionally balanced. Bayless hits them all spot on. Seasonal variations are included as well as alternate meat choices. He has a guide to a Mexican pantry and many quick prep ideas. There is a special grilling section for stovetop and open-flame grillers (this section includes rubs, marinades and salsas). The arrangement of the book is by course. The salads have many dressings and ideas, while the desserts section is quite small. Everyday also means soft tacos, enchiladas, tostadas, and tortas. There are many contemporary dishes such as a roasted poblanos- potato salad with flaked tuna. The nutritional part comes to the fore with a request by Rick to diet well and exercise often. Ok, I can do that too… Audience and level of use: home cooks Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted mushroom salad with spinach and chorizo; tortilla soup; red chile seafood soup; garlicky ancho chile rub; grilled whole chicken with knob onions; chicken Oaxacan yellow mole with green beans and chayote. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): US volume measurements are used with NO table of equivalencies. What I do like about this book (its positives): the extensive index has both Spanish and English listings for the ingredients. Quality/Price Rating: 19. THE GREAT WINES OF FRANCE; France’s top domaines and their wines (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84000-992- 6, $60 hard covers) is by the renowned wine writer Clive Coates, who specializes in French wines. He has written other books celebrating great domaines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. This book updates those, and also extends the scope to include all of France (Rhone, Champagne, Loire, Alsace), eight regions in all for a total of 42 domaines. In Part One, he describes each and why they are great in three pages, including pictures and a label. Material embraces the wine families involved and the winemakers (plus many winemaker families). Part Two has tasting notes and an assessment of vintages. All are dated for context of when he tasted. There are the usual names and numbers for visiting. Champagnes included are Krug, Pol Roger, and Louis Roederer. Rhones include Beaucastel, Chave, and Guigal. Other domaines include Trimbach, Tempier, Jadot, DRC and Leroy. Audience and level of use: travelers, wine collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: His Bordeaux section does not include Mouton in the top five but does include Palmer and Trotanoy. There are no Sauternes in the book. Paul Jaboulet Aine from the Rhone is here, but not Chapoutier. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): it is largely a picture book with some tasting notes. What I do like about this book (its positives): in general, the tasting notes go back to 1978 or 1975. Krug notes go back to l949. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 20. THE COOK’S BOOK; techniques and tips from the world’s master chefs (DK, 2005, 648 pages, ISBN 0-7566-1302-7 $65 hard covers) has been compiled by Jill Norman, renowned award-winning UK cookery author and editor (she did Elizabeth David’s classic cookbooks, and is now responsible for her Estate’s writings). This cooking resource details about 350 plus techniques through individual chapters crafted by cookbook authors Ken Hom (Chinese), Charlie Trotter (fish, vegetables), Rick Bayless (Mexican), and 15 others in 24 chapters arranged by course and product and region. There is only one woman, Christine Mansfield from Australia 1800 colour photos accompany the text and the 650 recipes, and they take you step-by-step through the processes. Most of the food is Oriental, French, Italian, Indian, and Mexican/Latin. For example, there is a whole chapter of 12 pages on Foams by Ferran Adria himself, from El Bulli. He details how to make foams and mousses and whipped creams at home. He shows a signature dish (all the chefs have one for this book), in the case “cappuccino almond foam with truffle juice”. He gives a bit of history since 1990, and says that foams useful for vegetarians. Of his 10 recipes, here’s a sample – mango and yogurt and raspberry foam; pistachio foam; mayonnaise foam; potato foam (a tortilla for the 21st century). Volume measurements are employed. Audience and level of use: cooking schools, hospitality schools; intermediate levels. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pan-grilled mackerel with orange romanesco; chilled Moscato-pineapple zabaglione; hare in red wine; eggplant and zucchini and Parmigiano tortino. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): extremely heavy book. I dropped it, just missing my foot, but tearing the spine. Unfortunately, there are no tables of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book (its positives): there’s an excellent glossary. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 21. WINE; a life uncorked (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2005; distr. by McArthur, 384 pages, ISBN 0-297-84378-8, $50 hard covers) is an autobiography by Hugh Johnson, one of the world’s most respected and best-selling wine writers; he has been tasting, buying and writing about wine for over 40 years. His memoir stresses the experience of the pleasures of wine: tasting, savouring, cellaring, choosing, understanding, comparing, buying. His personal views on the world of wine are documented by anecdotes. Other than that, there is very little about his life and surroundings, beyond the bare bones. His wife and two daughters are mentioned once or so apiece, and only one of them turns up in the index. Most of the book deals with changes in the wine world over the past 40 years, especially with the last few decades and the globalization. Johnson goes on and on about “Parker points” too, not realizing that they are just an extension of the UC Davis scale of 20 (and don’t the French have a 200 point scale?). Apart from Parker (he gets six references in the index), Johnson is reticent to write about other wine writers. And this seems to be universal among most wine writers: other wine writers just barely exist on the periphery. Yet we see each other all the time…In fact, Johnson describes himself on p.26: “”Critic’ is a term I have never accepted. ‘Commentator’, certainly. A diligent dilettante is how I see myself.” Smart chapter titles follow the wine progression: Bubbly, White, Red, and Sweet. You can read the barebones of his career: how he got started by a college room mate, British Vogue magazine writing, the International Wine and Food Society, his first book “Wine”, and then the glories of the pocket guides and wine atlas. Along the way, we read of tantalizing tastings and memorable meals – but there are no real substantial tasting notes. Audience and level of use: the curious wine lover, the serious wine reader, hospitality schools for the history. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “In American hands [taste] feels more like a moral crusade. Robert Parker deals in absolutes, and castigates those he sees as backsliders…Everyone is accustomed to percentages. Perhaps I was the only one to be surprised when America seized on the notion as the answer to the conundrum of wine” (p.40-41). What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): this is a very heavy book because of the treated book paper – there are black and white or colour photos liberally strewn about the text. They are fascinating, but they make holding the book extremely uncomfortable and awkward. And you know how insular the British are, or seem to be? There is no cross reference from the Wine and Food Society to the International Wine and Food Society, which is its proper name everywhere in the world. Non-Brits may have a difficult time tracking the IWFS. What I do like about this book (its positives): there is good integration of older photos with the text. And, of course, the writing style is civilized. Quality/Price Rating: 88. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR OCTOBER 2005 ============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE SOTHEBY’S WINE ENCYCLOPEDIA, 4th edition. (DK, 2005, 664 pages, ISBN 0-7566-1324-8, $65 hard covers) is by prolific wine writer Tom Stevenson. The first edition was in 1988, and Stevenson has done a remarkable job in chronicling the changes over the years. Of interest is the fact that the price has dropped from $80 despite the increase of more than 96 pages. His book is arranged geographically, covering all the wine-growing areas, history and reputation. There are new useful maps and photos. There are sections on all the factors affecting taste and quality. Stevenson authors many profiles of important producers, giving assessments of individual wines. He also has a section on enjoying wines, including wine tasting; wine and food, star ratings, taste charts to profile flavours, flaws in wines, and vintage charts back to 1967 in general, with earlier mentions for key years. He even has some detail about regional oak varieties with illustrated close-ups of the grain. The book concludes with a glossary and an extensive index. Most of the changes are devoted to New World wines (California, New Zealand, and Australia). Stevenson gives detailed coverage of the whole world and 6000 wineries are recommended; he is also a good writer. Canada gets six pages, covering 24 Ontario wineries and a few in BC. Audience and level of use: wine schools, people interested in wines. Some interesting or unusual facts: he doesn’t cover many organic or biodynamic wines produced by Birkenstockers. What he does cover are wines that are mainly being produced by regular wine producers who have gone “green”. They have ensured that their quality remains the same. What I don’t like about this book: it could be too lush and plush in Size; it is frightfully heavy. What I do like about this book: “author’s choice” section lists the best wines, with a lengthy description and aging ability. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE BEST RECIPES IN THE WORLD; more than 1,000 international dishes to cook at home (Broadway Books, 2005; distr. Random House Canada, 757 pages, ISBN 0-7679-0672-1, $42 hard covers) is by Mark Bittman, best- selling prolific author of basic cookbooks. He is mainly responsible for simplifying the cooking process; some would say “dumbing down”. This book expands on his million seller “How to Cook Everything” – the emphasis is on making the difficult doable. These are the recipes that people cook every day at home on every continent and region (44 countries are covered). Some of the recipes and passages come from his New York Times columns. Many recipes here can be made ahead or prepared in under 30 minutes. He has plenty of cook notes and sidebars for explanations of techniques and unusual ingredients. Looking at the scope of the book, there is no question that France-Italy-SEAsia lead the way in food dominance. He has instructional drawings, but his stress is that many techniques are the same the world over, such as pies, food wrapped in pastry, soups. The main differences are in the seasonings and the local ingredients. His book has 52 international menus, one for each week of the year, and all with convenient page references. All of these recipes are classics that have been streamlined, modernized, or updated. He uses minimal ingredients (and only ones that can be found at a local supermarket or through the Internet), he tries cooking techniques without paying much attention to what is going on (e.g., braising), and he only cooks one great dish per meal (supplemented by bread, salad, rice, steamed vegetables, dessert). The book is arranged by course; each recipe is notated as to whether it is a make ahead, served at room temperature or cold, 30 minutes or less, or as a main course. Each recipe gives a country of origin. The recipe guide lists everything by course, in alphabetical order. Audience and level of use: enough here to satisfy any cooking needs at home for the next three years. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: just for bacon: Alsatian tarte flambé, boeuf bourguignon, omelet, spaghetti carbonara, potato salad with mustard vinaigrette, quiche lorraine, salade lyonnaise, sautéed scallops, pasta frittata. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): you are going to need an international pantry which needs to be maintained; it can be quite large. And: there is no metric table of equivalencies for his US measurements. What I do like about this book (its positives): shop locally, cook globally. The index is extensive, of course. Quality/Price Rating: 92. 3. BETTY CROCKER COOKBOOK. New Edition (Wiley Publishing, 2005, 575 pages, ISBN 0-7645-6877-9, $38.99 binder) is an updated old classic and standby, last seen here many years ago. Over 65 million copies have been sold. This is a five-ring loose-leaf binder with regular magazine stock paper. There are 1000 or so easy to follow recipes, plus 400 variations illustrate with 300 colour photos. There are new chapters on casseroles and slow cookers, and new material on cooking in 20 minutes or less (hey, we’re eating both slow and fast food: what’s new in between?). Fast recipes are flagged throughout (there are about 130 dishes that can be ready in 20 minutes or less). 185 low fat recipes are included, as well as nutritional information, dietary exchanges, and carbohydrate choices. Prep and cooking times are clearly indicated. In other words, it has been updated to reflect today’s lifestyles. The inside back cover has quite a few emergency substitutions listed. The inside front cover has yields and equivalents listed. There are individual section indexes as well as an all-round general index. The book comes with a free online holiday planner (just visit the website indicated on page 4, www.wiley.com/go/bettycrockerplanner Audience and level of use: beginning cooks. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): uses too many shortcuts. The first recipe I turned to was a mixture of cream cheese with a jar of marshmallow…Also, the pages are easy to rip apart: they’ll need reinforcing at some point. The metric conversion tables on p540 is sort of lost, for there is nary a mention of it. What I do like about this book (its positives): this is a general all- purpose cookbook with the basics clearly explained and all contingencies covered. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. AT HOME WITH MICHAEL CHIARELLO; easy entertaining, recipes, ideas, inspiration (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. by Raincoast, 240 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4048-4, $54 hard covers) is by Michael Chiarello, a food guy on the Food Network and author of two other previous cookbooks, including The Tra Vigne Cookbook from his own restaurant. The book is meant for entertaining: he has whimsical menus, incorporating an element of surprise and novel presentation ideas. And he also has practical ideas such as paying attention to beverages, using alternative place settings and serving ware, and party locales. The 122 recipes also include pantry stocking, make aheads, cocktail parties, BBQ, DVD watching, dessert buffet. He has suggested timetables for the make aheads, and separate pages for cleaning tips, cleaning agents, serving wines, and scaling recipes. Audience and level of use: useful for entertaining, caterers too. Some interesting or unusual recipes: polenta crostini, pastina timbale, pancetta and goat cheese and spinach salad, grilled gaucho steak with blue cheese and pita, pan roasted pork tenderloin with fennel and pancetta-molasses dressing, cantaloupe granite. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): you’ll need a well-stocked larder with spice rubs, oil infusions, vinaigrettes, and sauces. His pathetic sources list covers only seven items, none in Canada. There are no metric equivalents given for the US volume measurements. What I do like about this book (its positives): good layout, lots of cook notes, entertaining notes, and wine notes for the recipes. The 100 photos do a good job of showing the presentations. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. TABLE SETTINGS; stylish entertaining made simple (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-944-2, $17.95 hard covers) is by Emily Chalmers, a freelance stylist and writer. She firmly believes that a decorative table (at home or in a restaurant) gives a sense of occasion and heightens anticipation. Even simple meals can be made memorable this way. She gives 20 themed occasions or festive meals: a brunch, alfresco, Asian-style elegance, Christening tea and other events, children’s party, surprise birthday buffet. At the end, for reference, there is a visual directory of seven international place settings, both formal and informal. Audience and level of use: easy to create for busy people Some interesting or unusual facts: food tastes better when it is beautifully presented. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): short book What I do like about this book (its positives): interesting and doable. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 6. THE WINE LOVER’S DESSERT COOKBOOK; recipes and pairings for the perfect glass of wine (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. by Raincoast, 180 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4237-1, $33.95 paper covers) is by Mary Cech and Jennie Schacht. Cech is a well-known pastry chef (she worked for Charlie Trotter for two years), while Schacht is a culinary focusing writer and consultant. In addition to the recipes (which often call for wine as an ingredient), there are wine and dessert matches, with specific pairing recommendations for every recipe in the book (there are 50 recipes here plus variations and wine substitutions). The authors give general advice on sweet wines, basic guidelines for creating your own matches (the keys are weight, richness, and flavour), and a series of tables and suggestions for “Pairing Guidelines”. The arrangement is by dessert type (stone fruits, berries, citrus, apples and pears, tropical, dried, cream, caramel, nuts, and chocolate). Icewines from Canada are covered and indexed, but the term “icewine” is not in the book’s glossary. Mail orders sources are all US, as are the measurements (no metric tables of equivalents). Audience and level of use: dessert lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chilled strawberry consommé (Cabernet Franc icewine, one of four recommendations), cherry gelee parfait with lime custard (demi-sec rose), ginger pears with black sesame butter crumb (LHR, Vouvray), creamy risotto pudding with brandied figs (Muscat, Banyuls), caramel apricot pecan tart (botrytisized wines). What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): some of the typeface is too light. Also, where is Charlie Trotter’s log rolling endorsement (Cech worked for him for two years). Also, there are some puzzling choices in the bibliography. What I do like about this book (its positives): there is an essential ingredients and equipment list. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 7. SIMPLE FRENCH COOKERY; step by step to everyone’s favourite French recipes (BBC Books, 2005; distr. by Raincoast, 128 pages, ISBN 0-563- 52285-2, $24.95 paper covers) is by Raymond Blanc, a multiple restaurant owner (including a Michelin two star restaurant in the UK) and cookbook author. This book was originally published in 2002, in hard back, as “Foolproof French Cookery”. The copyright notice of 2002 indicates that the book has not been revised; it might be a straight reprint. And 8. SIMPLE ITALIAN COOKERY; step by step to everyone’s favourite Italian recipes (BBC Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages, ISBN 0-563- 52178-3, $24.95 paper covers) is by Aldo Zilli, another “chef patron” in the UK specializing in Italian cookery. This book too is a reprint, formerly known as “Foolproof Italian Cookery”. Both books have 40 recipes apiece, all classics. All courses are covered, and the recipes are spread over two pages. There are plenty of cook notes and there are some menus (but with no page references). Both imperial and metric measurements are used for each ingredient in the recipes. Prep times and cooking times are given. Audience and level of use: basic Some interesting or unusual recipes: clafouti, crème caramel, tarte tatin, roasted monkfish, spaghetti, rump steak with radicchio, pot au feu. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): nothing much as it is geared to its audience level. What I do like about this book (its positives): lots of good illustrations and photos for techniques, about 250 per book. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 9. ONE POT; over 100 delicious recipes (Hamlyn, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 0-600-61412-3, $21.95 paper covers) is a collection of uncredited recipes dealing with one pot cooking. The nice thing about prep work here is the clean up: only one pot (usually). Covered are the basics of casseroles, soups, stews, beans-rice-grains, stir-fries, curries. “International” flavours are stressed throughout. Audience and level of use: basic, busy singles and working parents. Some interesting or unusual recipes: bright red bell pepper soup, orange osso buco, beef tagine, lamb with eggplants, spicy duck in port. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): US measurements are given, but there is no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book (its positives): basic. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 10. SOME LIKE IT HOT; 50 drinks to warm your spirits (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 108 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4404-8. $19.95 hard covers) is by Holly Burrows (a food writer in San Francisco) and Katie Walter. There is a chapter on non-alcoholic drinks. The preps are broken down into categories: hot cocktails, harvest time, holiday drinks, after-dinner drinks, and cozy drinks. Thus there is cinnamon cider martini, mojito mint tea, and wassail bowl. The authors have the usual tips about equipment and ingredients, plus ideas for unusual garnishes. You’ll need plenty of mugs or other heat-resistant vessels with handles. Audience and level of use: party goers, sky lodges. Some interesting or unusual facts: hot drinks tend to be on the sweet side. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there are no metric charts but there is a liquid measurements table. The dulce de leche drink is a bust (where’s the caramel?). And, we could have used more variations for the mulled wine. What I do like about this book (its positives): good topic, though. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 11. PIZZA; more than 60 recipes for delicious homemade pizza (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4554-0, $18.95 paper covers) is by Diane Morgan (cookbook author) and Tony Gemignani (pizza chef; there are step-by-step dough-tossing instructions from a five-time world champ). The emphasis is on the classic, the contemporary, the unusual, and the exotic. You can use store bought crusts or make your own (thick or thin) with recipes provided. The chapters are arranged by style, such as Neapolitan, New York, Chicago, California, plus ones for grilled pizzas, desserts, and the kids. Audience and level of use: pizza lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Four Seasons pizza with artichokes, tomatoes, mushrooms, and prosciutto; pizza capriciosa; cannoli pizza; fruit pizza; lasagna pizza; and a grilled pizza with fig jam, blue cheese, prosciutto and arugula [I usually like this with leftover Brie instead of the blue]. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): all the sources are US except for one listing for a pizzeria in London, Ontario! What I do like about this book (its positives): instructions are quite detailed. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. PICK THE RIGHT WINE EVERY TIME (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-968-X, $16.95 hard covers) is by Chris Losh, former editor of the Wine Magazine (UK) and now a freelance wine writer. He looks at the times when we drink wine and explores which wine styles go best with each situation. He chronicles 25 events, such as being at home (TV wine, before and after dinner, BBQ, lunch, regular meal) or a special event (dinner party, wedding, anniversary, party, visiting). He has a section on what to do in bars and pubs, out on a hot date, visiting in-laws, picnics, gifts, eating out (by cuisine). No specific labels are mentioned, just regions and grape varieties and fruit/acid levels, plus price. Audience and level of use: beginner, common sense for the rest of us. Some interesting or unusual fact: don’t get hung up trying to make the perfect choice, check with wine waiters and retail clerks. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): fusion foods demand fusion wines, in an off-dry mode (e.g. Conundrum, Gentil, etc.). This needed to be expressed. What I do like about this book (its positives): his advice tells you which wines will suit you, not what will suit the wine. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 13. COOKING WITH WINE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-954-X, $16.95 hard covers) is by Fiona Beckett, a UK cookbook and freelance writer specializing in pairing food with wine: www.foodandwinematching.co.uk. These are mostly classics (29 recipes such as lamb shanks, beef burgundy, daube) for all courses, with recommended wine matches for each recipe. Her major tip is to splash wine on almost everything, usually one or two ounces. Audience and level of use: basic Some interesting or unusual recipes: wild mushroom and champagne risotto, warm scallop salad with pancetta parsnip chips, smoked duck on tangerine and pecan salad, sea bass en papillote. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): too short to cover it all adequately. What I do like about this book (its positives): basic Quality/Price Rating: 80. 14. PERFECT RECIPES FOR HAVING PEOPLE OVER (Houghton Mifflin, 2005, 304 pages, ISBN 0-618-32972-2, $50 hard covers) is by Pam Anderson (no, not that Pam Anderson), winner of a Julia Child Award for her earlier book, “Perfect Recipe”. These 200 recipes are for company. The book includes 100 accompaniments to mix and match with the main course (appetizers, sides, desserts). Each recipe includes a thumbnail sketch with suggestions on what to serve with the dish (with page references), how to vary it, how to take shortcuts, and how far ahead to make it, when it should be served, and what to do with leftovers. Her emphasis is on being comfortable with entertaining a crowd (two or more non-family is a crowd). Her advice covers planning a menu that works, shopping, and a cooking schedule. Some recipes are for vegetarians. Audience and level of use: for vegetarians, for carnivores, for picky kids, for sophisticated parents. Some interesting or unusual recipes: boneless coq au vin; one stew, many variations; pear halves with blue cheese and toasted nuts; salmon cucumber salad; quesadillas with goat cheese and red onion. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): no metric tables of equivalents. What I do like about this book (its positives): there are page references with the advice e on what to serve with each dish. I also liked the arrangement of the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 15. HOMEGROWN PURE AND SIMPLE; great healthy food from garden to table (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 232 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4472- 2, $46.95 hard covers) is by Michel Nischan (executive chef at Heartbeat in NYC and cookbook author) with Mary Goodbody as a focusing culinary writer. These recipes are all based on his restaurant and on his home vegetable garden. Half of the photographs are on food, the rest are on the gardens. Eighty recipes are low in fats and carbos; they are actually tailored to the needs of his son who is a diabetic. All courses are covered here. His material also includes how to do a garden for yourself, next spring. There is a larder list and a US sources list for food and garden supplies. While US volume measurements are employed, there is a table of metric equivalents at the end of the book. Audience and level of use: good food lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes: basil-steamed shrimp over soba noodles; chilled garden berry soup with lemon verbena; watermelon and arugula and toasted almond salad; butternut squash muffins; roasted pear and spoon bread tart; heirloom tomato and eggplant sauce. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): the type size makes the fractions in the recipes difficult to read. What I do like about this book (its positives): good quality cooking, useful for diabetics too. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 16. GREAT WINE MADE SIMPLE; straight talk from a Master Sommelier. Revised and updated. (Broadway Books, 2005, 326 pages, ISBN 0-7679- 0478-8, $39.95 hard covers) is by Andrea Immer Robinson, previously just Andrea Immer, a wine columnist and book author with a Master Sommelier qualification. The book was first published in 2000, and it is a welcomed revision in this era of vinous changes. 20% of the book has been changed. The simplicity is this: six basic wine grapes comprise 80% of today’s top-selling table wines in North America: riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, and syrah-shiraz. Of course even this is going to change as more drinkers look to pinot gris and viognier. There are three body styles (light, medium, and full), and four flavours (dry, crisp, oaky, tannic). Sweet is not an option here. There are all kinds of material here on how to read a wine label, and tasting lessons (putting flavours into words) to look at various components such as body, butter, grass, spices, floral, fruit). New in this edition are the 10 flavour maps which show what tastes one can expect from climates around the world (cool climate vs. hot climate; New World vs. Old World). This reflects changing wine trends, such as the development of shiraz. Wine and food matches are also part of her taste dynamics. The book has lots of tables to leaf through. Audience and level of use: the trade, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: she suggests a milk tasting in order to understand variations in wine-body styles. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there is no discussion on bargain wines nor on up-and-coming wines or regions (beyond the pinot gris and viognier). I really wouldn’t title this book about “great wine”…her key is that six varieties drive 80% of wine sales. The book is really about “good” wines. What I do like about this book (its positives): the book has a sommelier’s approach, and thus it is restaurant-driven. There is also lots of material on wine service in restaurants. This makes it useful for the trade. Also, I liked what she said about gooseberries (read the book) and their tartness. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 17. SUSANNA FOO FRESH INSPIRATION; new approaches to Chinese cuisine (Houghton Mifflin, 2005, 336 pages, ISBN 0-618-39330-7, $45 hard covers) is by the chef-owner of the eponymous restaurants in Philadelphia and Atlantic City. She is also a multiple James Beard Award winner, and one of the leading chefs of Chinese cuisine in North America. In this book she attempts to put Chinese food into the mainstream kitchen by refocusing 150 recipes, using a blend of East and West techniques (e.g., French sauces). Some recipes are new spins on traditional food (subject to local US market availability) while others are modified from her restaurants’ menus. Some are also borrowed from other Asian cultures, such as Korean pancakes and Thai red curry. So it’s all about fusion food or global cuisine. Three of her favourite pieces of equipment are the microplane, the Japanese benriner (similar to a mandoline), and flat-bottomed woks. She presents good information in the recipe heads, as well as background data. All the mail order sources and websites are American. Audience and level of use: returnees to Chinese cooking, global enthusiasts. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Chinese-style ratatouille, lobster ravioli with soybean puree and coconut lobster sauce, almond financiers with kumquat-Fuyu persimmon sauce, Asian pear tatin, pan-seared black sea bass with caramelized red pepper sauce. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): covers a lot of territory, a bit overwhelming. Also, while there are US volume measurements, there are no metric equivalent tables. What I do like about this book (its positives): a well-developed, good index. She also has good detail in her recipes on cooking procedures. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 18. TRUE TUSCAN; flavors and memories from the countryside of Tuscany (HarperCollins, 2005, 236 pages, ISBN 0-06-055555-6, $32.95 hard covers) is by Cesare Casella, NYC owner-chef of Beppe and Maremma. He has also authored two other cookbooks. This regional Italian cookbook presents a cultural history of Tuscany, suggesting that serving antipasti of multiple courses was a way for the wealthy to show off. 125 recipes cover all courses; there are sidebars and cook notes to cover ingredients and history. Most courses have wine recommendations. There is a list of US sources, plus a bibliography of some Italian cookbooks. Audience and level of use: travelers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pork liver bundles with fennel; mushroom ands sausage and artichoke risotto; misto di bosco (fruit of the woods); red mullet with prosciutto; salsa di norcino (butcher’s pasta); renaissance pasta timbale. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there are no tables of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book (its positives): both English and Italian names are indexed in the recipes listings. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 19. JUST LIKE MAMA USED TO MAKE; recipes and traditions from an Italian kitchen (Cassell Illustrated, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84403-429-1, $35.95 hard covers) is by Lella Antinozzi, an art writer. This is her first cookbook. It is of southern Italian cuisine, a photo-journey of memories and culinary legacies. Thus, it is part biography and part cultural history. The 111 (or so) recipes cover the range of preserves, breads, antipasti, one-pot meals, pasta, etc. Audience and level of use: Italian lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes: pizza casata, kid with eggs and cheese, struffoli, crespelle, ciambotta, Christmas capitone, anchovies in scapece, fried eels with vinegar. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): For the most part, she says “both imperial and metric measurements are given in all recipes. Use one set of measurements only and not a mixture of both” – yet tablespoons, teaspoons and cups are used with no equivalents. So metric only applies to weight and temperature. It is always unwise to mix up weights and measures this way. What I do like about this book (its positives): indexes both Italian and English recipe names. Quality/Price Rating: 78. 20. THE SIMPLE ART OF MARRYING FOOD AND WINE (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 192 pages, ISBN 1-845-330-79X, $39.95 hard covers) is by Malcolm Gluck (UK wine writer) and Mark Hix (UK food writer). They try to detail the best food and wine partnerships. Hix has recipes with comments on how the cooking processes affect the flavour and texture of a dish. Gluck has a broad selection of wine matches and explains the chemistry behind every rule in matching wine with food. The book is arranged by food groups, with 45 recipes to demonstrate pairings and sauces and flavours: vegetables, fish and seafood, meat, poultry, dessert, cheeses. There are cook notes and sidebars, with copious cross-references to cooking styles and wine styles. There are wine checklists for over 200 wines (styles and regions, no producers indicated). Everything is in metric, with a conversion table for the US market. Audience and level of use: intermediate cooks. You’ll need to know your food and your wines. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “Wine is not created solely to be compared with other wines and spat into metal buckets or ceramic spittoons. Wine is made to accompany food”. Example: butternut squash and ginger soup needs a verdelho, a cool climate chardonnay from New Zealand, or a pinot blanc from Alsace. What I don’t like about this book (its shortcomings): there are no extensive tables of food matches with wines, nor the reverse. The run on list of ingredients in the recipes are difficult to handle, especially when carried over to the next line. It is very difficult to cook this way…. What I do like about this book (its positives): the white pages are Hix, and the screened tinted grey pages are by Gluck. I like that. Quality/Price Rating: 85. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR SEPTEMBER 2005 ================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. A POCKET GUIDE TO ONTARIO WINES, WINERIES, VINEYARDS & VINES (McClelland & Stewart, 2005, 272 pages, ISBN 0-7710-3055-X, $22.99 paper covers with French leaves) is by Konrad Ejbich, a Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada colleague who appears on CBC radio monthly and writes a wine column for Style at Home. He is also a Canadian correspondent for the Wine Spectator. In setup, the book is modeled on Hugh Johnson’s pocket book approach, with details about the history and development of all the wineries in Ontario, which will number 125 in 2006. It is alphabetically arranged, with the usual names and numbers to access the winery. Interspersed are valuable details of vineyard names, estates and designations, as well as general wine topics of interest. Thus, “Asian Lady Beetle” follows “Angels Gate Winery”, and it comes before “Atalick Vineyard”. But in this case, there is no cross-reference from “Ladybug” to “Asian Lady Beetle”, and since the only index is to names of “Industry People” (very useful, by the way), you won’t find ladybug indexed anywhere. You have to know that “Asian” is the opening word. After the descriptive material about each winery Konrad gives a variety of tasting notes. He evaluates older vintages of wines no longer available for sale, and this is a boon for collectors and for those who wish to see at a glance the ongoing development of a particular wine. He gives probable dates for drinking peaks (check the legend on the French leaf). For current vintages, he requested samples from the winery (I have mixed feelings about this since bottles can be tampered with: it has happened to me at least once). Some wines have been tasted in less than ideal conditions (such as at trade shows) and these have been noted as such. He gives ratings for each wine (there is a legend on the front French leaf) but doesn’t give any production runs, just totals of cases for each winery. Gold prize winners have their medal identified. When a wine is dreck, he says so. Incredibly, some wineries did not want to participate. They are listed as such, so his directory remains inclusive, even if he was unable to rate their wines. Some fruit wines are covered, but here he is inconsistent. For example, there is nothing for Sunnybrook Farms, which is all non-grape fruit. And while he has rated the five fortified fruit wines from Southbrook, he doesn’t mention the Cranberry table wine at Stoney Ridge, nor the fruit wines at Konzelmann (great peach) or Hernder (great rhubarb), nor the fruit-flavoured and fruit icewines that do exist. He covers some apple ciders from Prince Edward County, but no apple wines or ciders from Archibald. Indeed, there is even no entry for “Fruit Wines” or “QC”, through which he could have explained all these things. Near the end of the book he has VQA Vintage Charts, 2004 – 1988, which are based on surveys of winemakers. And this is a great chart. When I review a book, I always dip into it and begin reading. What to make of this description of a Viognier wine on p.55: “Good body, balance, supple texture, and refreshing acidity are overshadowed by sheer charm”? Doesn’t he mean “enhanced”? Overshadowed implies a negative assessment. Overall, and I suppose that this is because I know a lot about reference books and Ontario wines and thus I can easily spot them, there is a lack of attention to some details. A Colio Gewurztraminer is described: “Rich gold with a mildly plastic overtone”. What does that mean, beyond excessive usage of the prefix “over”? What does plastic look like? “Filmy” might be a better word. These can all be easily fixed in the next edition. Another example: Joseph Pohorly is described on p.89 as “Ukrainian-born” and on p.119 as a “native of Vineland”. On p.145, “baled” is used instead of “bailed”. For Stratus, J-L Groulx has been the current winemaker only since 2004 (this date is not noted in the text), and he did not have a hand in making any of the wines being reviewed, just finishing some of them. I understand that Stratus’ winemaking philosophy will be changing. Under Royal De Maria, there is listed a Gewurztraminer 2002, without any indication that this is an icewine. The four wines reviewed for Vinoteca are from 1991 – 1999. On the two pages of 30 Marynissen wine reviews, only three are from the 21st century. Yes, I know Konrad reviewed older wines, but these reviews should have been in context since there is no indication that these wineries did not co-operate. There is no review of Strewn’s entry level Chardonnay, despite its General Listing at the LCBO. Yet there is a review of Peninsula Ridge’s Chardonnay 2003, also General Listed, which is cited as nonVQA because of the strange deal that happened in 2004 which allowed nonVQA wines from 2003 (a short harvest) to be bottled by those wineries who wished to protect their LCBO VQA General Listings. Strewn was also in this position with its Chardonnay 2003, but Konrad doesn’t cover it. Nevertheless, a good first edition that will improve as the years go by. I cannot wait for the 2006 version. Audience and level of use: the passionate wine lover who wants to discover more about Ontario wines, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: it is hard to believe that Konrad writes almost a whole book about Ontario VQA wines, but only spends FOUR LINES telling us what VQA is! We need to know about grape percentages allowed, tasting panel work, the 2003 short harvest and the subsequent General List protection racket, and the like. It needs a whole section, at least a page, maybe more. There is no listing for VQA under “V” … What I don’t like about this book: it desperately needs an index by varietal, so readers can cross-check from one winery to another, to compare varietal offerings. Also, the French leaves are difficult to keep closed, and prove a hindrance when constantly being placed in a pocket. No prices, not even price ranges, are given, and there is no explanation for this omission. Sales availability of the wines is not offered: some of these wines are on the General List of the LCBO and this should be noted. What I do like about this book: I like the fact that there are no photos, logos, labels, etc. No illustrations mean that the costs can be kept down. He has excellent, hard-to-find details on the vineyards in Ontario, and a good discussion on the ladybug problem. But while it is nice to have reviews of non-VQA wines, I think he needs to give us a rationale for their inclusion. Most of his nonVQA tasting notes say “plonk”, “dreck”, “grapey”, “generic”, “simple”, “sauvignon bland”, and many have no stars. Since he picked and chose his way among the fruit wines, then he could have done the same with the nonVQA wines. He does provide some sharp and good notes for the better “Cellared in Canada” wines. Quality/Price Ratio: hey, despite my carping, this book has to be a 93. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. EL BULLI: 1998-2002 (Ecco, 2005, 496 pages, 22 page guide to book, CD-ROM, ISBN 0-06-081757-7, $490 hard covers in slipcase) is by Ferran Adria, the Barcelona chef in charge of El Bulli. He has been widely acknowledged as the world’s greatest and most influential living chef. This book, a coffee-table without the legs, details the development of El Bulli’s unique cuisine from the four years 1998-2001. 2002 was a “sabbatical” year of refinement and book preparations (three in all). Two other books, not yet in English, cover the 1994-1997 and the 1983- 1993 periods (Chef Ferran arrived at El Bulli in 1983; he was the guy who first sent out amuse bouches on spoons). They too have CD-ROMs. The big 22 guide explains the setup of the book and the CD-ROM, plus charts on the restaurant’s philosophies which have evolved over the years. The books are in two parts. One is a catalogue-collection of photos, the other is an evolutionary analysis of each dish. Both parts of the book are arranged by year and month. This is the picture and the theory. The CD-ROM (also one per book) contains all of the recipes for PCs and Macs, all of the schemes and summaries that complete the evolutionary analysis, plus videos (of the restaurant, of the people, of some of the preps) and menus. It even has some preps that were being planned for 2003 when the restaurant re-opened. Of major interest are the techniques involved in the preparations of foams, savoury sorbets, hot jellies, clouds and sponges. No longer do we need to say “how did he do that?” as secrets are revealed. Users do not need to be able to read Spanish since the CD-ROMs are bilingual, the books in Spanish are mainly pictorial, and the preps and schemes are largely repeated on the CD-ROMs. Courses include cocktails, snacks, tapas, mains, pre-desserts, desserts, and follies. In the book, the restaurant also examines those dishes that didn’t quite make the grade, presenting an explanation for the failure. In total, there are 825 recipes in the three books. The English one has 371 recipes, beginning with #455. The crew shot over 3000 rolls of films for 1000 photos. It concludes with a glossary and pictographs for product codes. I just know that you will have hours of fun with this book. For more details about the restaurant, check out www.elbulli.com. Audience and level of use: every restaurant and cooking school. Some interesting or unusual recipes: rather than list recipes from the book, I’ll just tell what they do to create the recipes. Take the combo of melon + grapefruit + mint + olive oil + salt. This is recipe #550, which is grilled melon and grapefruit kebab. The restaurant carefully explains how one can also make four other preps: a melon soup with mint and grapefruit segments in olive oil, mint jelly with grapefruit water ice and melon tagliatelli, a salad of melon shavings with seeded grapefruit and toasted mint, and textured olive oil with mint, with melon tapioca and grilled grapefruit. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine recommendations, which I find puzzling. What I do like about this book: this is a unique logbook of everything that they did in this time period. For a restaurant or hotel business, its purchase and use is a modest investment. The CVD-ROM recipes are fully indexed and numbered, along with the photo from the book. Quality/Price Ratio: although pricey, the book is available at Amazon.ca for a mere $343 CDN. Indeed, all three volumes at Amazon cost only a total of $1000, a night out for some people. Let’s say a 95. 3. CLASSIC COCKTAILS (New Holland, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 80 pages, ISBN 1-84330-710-3, $10.95 hard covers) and 4. GIN & VODKA COCKTAILS (New Holland, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 80 pages, ISBN 1-84330-714-6, $10.95 hard covers) and 5. RUM COCKTAILS (New Holland, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 80 pages, ISBN 1-84330-712-X, $10.95 hard covers) and 6. WHISKY & BOURBON COCKTAILS (New Holland, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 80 pages, ISBN 1-84330-710-3, $10.95 hard covers) are all authored by David Biggs, who is not identified anywhere. The “Classic” has 33 popular drinks, based on gin (Martini, Singapore Sling, Tom Collins), rum (Zombie, Cuba Libre, Daiquiris), vodka (White Russian, Harvey Wallbanger), and brandy (Stinger, Steeplejack). The “Gin & Vodka” offer 32 recipes (Black Marble, Volga Boatman, Scotch Frog). The “Rum” features 32, including a whole line of Daiquiris, Mai Tai, Hot Buttered Rum, Brass Monkey, Between the Sheets, Bee’s Kiss. “Whisky & Bourbon” has 32: Manhattan, Southern Mint Julep, Night Owl. All books come with photographs, a history of the spirit involved, and some material on distillation. Audience and level of use: beginners or basicists. What I don’t like about this book: there are no indexes, and the photos can be gratuitous. What I do like about this book: you can pick and choose titles, just the basics are covered. Quality/Price Ratio: the “Classics” is the best book, say 86 out of 100. 7. THE SPICE ROUTE (John Murray, 2005; distr. McArthur, 286 pages, ISBN 0-7195-6198-1, $39.95 hard covers) is a history book by John Keay, a historian who has written standard histories of India and the English East India Company. This is a popular history which leans a bit to academia in the style of writing and profusion of facts. Thankfully all the footnotes were collected as end notes at the back of the book. He treats the Spice Route as an epic, along the lines of the Silk Road. And he actually considers spices as irrelevant but tradable commodities, suggesting that the chase for spices was one in pursuit of luxuries (if you’ve got it, flaunt it). But the actual monopolies on spices, in addition to creating some peoples own fortunes and the capitalist system, also created exploration the planet and subsequent slavery and wars. Keay begins with the Egyptians’ maritime trade, followed by the Greeks and Romans going to India for pepper and ginger, the Islamic period and the Dark Ages, and then the explosion of discoveries by Columbus, Da Gama, and Magellan. These are followed by the proselytizing Christians, maritime powers and stock markets, and the West’s cruelty/war/famine/destruction. The select bibliography at the end is all books, mostly secondary sources. Audience and level of use: culinary historians, economists, foodies. Some interesting or unusual facts: The Spice Route was driven by the West. With the Dark Ages, there was no lust for luxuries. Eventually, spice monopolies were desirable, since there would be control of the market without flooding. What I don’t like about this book: actually, it is too short. I wanted more details. What I do like about this book: there are 32 colour reproductions of paintings, drawings, and watercolours. Keay also gives us good detail on the pre-Columbus period. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 8. THE COOKIE SUTRA (Workman, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 60 pages, ISBN 0-7611-3809-9, $11.95 paper covers) is by the pseudonymous Edward Jaye, an advertising executive. I really don’t know what to say about this book except to say that I love it! Imagine (well, don’t bother: they are pictured) gingerbread people in kama sutra positions. You can bake them in forms (you do the forms, there is a recipe at the end of the book). The section on getting ready includes such double entendre passages as the dough needing time to rise, tough cookies needing a good milk bath, there’s much massaging and kneading, embracing and wrapping around a rolling pin. You get the picture. There’s an explanation of four different kisses (moderate, contracted, pressed and soft). These are important forms of communication since gingerbread cookies aren’t especially big on vocabulary. Postures include “classic” (gee, I didn’t know THAT one existed; it’s new to me!), sheep’s, splitting bamboo, pair of tongs, snake trap, wife of Indra, plus twelve “advanced” postures. Illustrated with photos of constructed and decorated gingerbread people. An early Valentine’s Day gift. Audience and level of use: the curious, gift book for the foodie who loves to play with food. Some interesting or unusual recipes: just one recipe for gingerbread people. It’s the forms that matter. What I don’t like about this book: the French leaves are not attractive on a book this small. I guess French letters would be out of the question… What I do like about this book: its uniqueness. Not for the faint at heart. Quality/Price Ratio: this gets an X rating of 69. 9. GOOD DAY FOR A PICNIC; simple food that travels well (William Morrow, 2005, 214 pages, ISBN 0-06-072680-6, $32.50 hard covers) is by Jeremy Jackson, a food writer whose “The Cornbread Book” was nominated for an IACP award in 2003. The 120 recipes here are good for parks, patios, backyards and beaches, or simply dining al fresco anywhere. He gives a history of picnic books, as well as material on food safety. It is all arranged from appetizers to desserts, with drinks and wine choices suggested (usually fragrant and fruity, lightish wines). All measurements are by volume; there is metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: intermediate, adventuresome. Some interesting or unusual recipes: walnut and feta micro-quiches, roasted potato salad with crème fraiche, chilled avocado and cucumber soup, plum tart, tuna cakes, rotini with feta. What I don’t like about this book: needs more coverage of how much slogging a picnic is, directing traffic, etc. It helps to have NO kids about. What I do like about this book: there’s a section on what not to bring, such as cell phones. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 10. COCKTAILS 2005 (American Express Publishing, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 231 pages, ISBN 1-932624-02-3, $21.95 paper covers) is by the editors of Food & Wine magazine. There is no indication that this is the beginning of an annual series. But since there is a date in the title and since there is a selection of the best drinks (however defined) from US hottest bars, restaurants, and lounges, it looks like it will come out again next year. There are the usual definitive recipes for the classics plus the latest trendy drinks. Each chapter focuses on one spirit (vodka, gin, whisky, et al). Each recipe identifies its source, with a separate section for the nightlife’s name and address and website (this is almost a free advert). There is a pitcher drink section that covers punches and party pleasers. Each prep makes eight drinks or more. The editorial team has prepared a cocktail clinic on mixology basics. There is a conversion chart for the innumerate, because it just converts ounces to cups; there is no metric used elsewhere. Audience and level of use: cooking and wine schools, cocktail lovers. Some interesting or unusual facts: for flavoured-powder rims, use Tang or chili powder. What I don’t like about this book: the drink index is only by spirit – that’s also the chapter arrangement, so we haven’t gained anything. What I do like about this book: handy small compact format. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 11. EAT CARIBBEAN (Simon & Schuster, 2005, 240 pages, ISBN 0-743-25949- 1, $36 paper covers) is by Virginia Burke, a Jamaican now centered in London. She has written other Caribbean food books and articles. This book was originally published in the UK. The preps are robust and spicy, but not all are hot. She has traditional and updated and new takes on jerks, vegetarian dishes, and desserts. All of her courses have separate sections, including a special one for jerk (17 recipes). He also details menus, party planning, four sample menus, entertainment advice, plus “cooks notes”. The majority of Caribbean ingredients can be found in the larger urban supermarkets. She admits to a preponderance of Jamaican recipes because they are what she knows best: peasant food, street food, celebratory food, drinks. Some of her recipes are sourced as to origin (e.g., blackbean dip from Cuba, cornmeal pumpkin fritters from Jamaica). Her recipes use both metric and volume measurements form each ingredient listed. Audience and level of use: adventuresome, ethnic cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: grilled coconut shrimp, sweet plantain and ginger flan, smoked marlin salad, spiced duck with tamarind sauce, jerk mixed grill, ackee rice. What I don’t like about this book: there are only four menus. A book like this one needs more. Also, the different coloured pages of the text is wearing after awhile. What I do like about this book: glossary of foods descriptions and terms. The menus do have page references indicated, for easier retrieval of the preps. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 12. MATCHING FOOD & WINE; classic and not so classic combinations (Weidenfeld & Nicholson; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 0-297-84379-6, $42.95 hard covers) is by Michel Roux, Jr., marathon runner and owner of La Gavroche in London. He has also written other cookbooks. Here he has 120 recipes plus serving suggestions, for a range of creative and complex dishes from appetizers through entrees to 33 desserts. All of the preps have wine recommendations, for the “ideal” wine (two or three suggestions for each plate). He also gives the rationale behind his choices. He even gives us a chapter where he selects 15 world class wines and then designs meals around them, such as Opus One with venison haunch and Chateau Latour 1982 with a very simple roasted veal rib. He has an engaging wine commentary and advice, giving the principles of matching food and wine. Some of these are classic, such as stilton and port, tapas and manzanilla, pasta and white truffles with Barolo. The metric scale is used in the recipes. At the back of the book, there is a wine directory of high class wines used. These are mostly from France, but there are others from Europe. Only a handful come from the New World. Audience and level of use: celebrity cook collectors, wine and food matchers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: celeriac remoulade and smoked duck, lyonnais onion soup, aioli with clams, smoked eel with beetroot, fennel boats and grilled goat cheese. What I don’t like about this book: somehow roquefort and Chateau D’Yquem is considered a not so classic combo. Also, roast turkey and pinot noir is not so classic. What I do like about this book: the rationales are very insightful and useful. Good hook for a book. Quality/Price Ratio: 87, 13. THE BREWMASTER’S TABLE; discovering the pleasures of real beer with real food (Ecco, 2005, 372 pages, ISBN 0-06-000571-8, $23.95 paper covers) is by Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery in New York City. He has also appeared on many TV shows and has written articles about beer. This is the paperback reissue of the 2003 hardback book. It is described as an “intelligent tome to foam” as it matches beer with food. It was a winner of an IACP Award and it was nominated for a James Beard Award. The general introduction includes a history and background of beer making. Then Oliver stresses the principles of matching beer with food. He identifies forty different beers to match up with food (Schwarzbier, old ale, Vienna-style, ESB, etc.) with a description and some typical producers for each style. He also covers the traditions established in Germany and Britain and Belgium, with material on Abbey beer, wheat beer and lager. Near the end he has a reference chart matching food with beer. Unfortunately, there’s lots of pub grub here as well as street food as beers work best with fatty foods. The book concludes with fifty pages of US craft breweries, but none on Canadian. Audience and level of use: literate beer lovers, foodies, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: apple pie goes with Imperial stout, strong Baltic porter, and cream stout. I guess that also includes apple pie with cheddar cheese. What I don’t like about this book: too many puffy colour photos. What I do like about this book: colour photos of the beer process, chapter endnotes which update the book from 2003. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 14. TURNING THE TABLES; restaurants from the inside out (HarperCollins, 2005, 216 pages, ISBN 0-06-073780-8, $34.95 hard covers) is by Steven A. Shaw, the founder of www.egullet.org, a James Beard Award-winning food critic, and a magazine food features writer. His basic attempt is to make sure that people are neither intimidated nor overwhelmed when dining out. But anybody who can afford to eat out in the food palaces surely must not be self-effacing, unless one only has “inherited money”. Shaw’s main point is that restaurants are businesses first, and that means that he usually takes the side of the owner rather than the chef or the critic. His scope of activity is mainly New York City. Celebrity chefs and the cult of personality are not everything, unless the chef also owns the operation. This is a largely anecdotal book, covering how to get a reservation in a hot new trendy spot (grovel), how the food gets to the table, how to get the best service and food when dining out, how to fins a perfect place for every event, how to read between the lines of a restaurant review. The tips and advice cover all types of restaurants (small to large) and activities (dates, power lunches, etc.). While there are many behind the scenes stories of food preps, I find that I can get most of this material from the likes of eGullet or Chowhound, for free. There is a bibliography of resources such as books, food magazines, the Internet, and articles. Audience and level of use: the curious diner, cooking schools, restaurant owners, foodies. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The most widely utilized restaurant information sources in America are the Zagat surveys, the best selling guides to restaurants in 45 cities worldwide.” What I don’t like about this book: slim book, fewer than 200 pages on the restaurant scene, with lots of leading and large type. His bibliography does NOT list the compelling “Wife of the Chef”, a good “tell-all” book. And while he talks about the Internet, there is nothing about television! What I do like about this book: “Turning the Tables” would work as a paperback, for half the going price. Quality/Price Ratio: 70. 15. A VERY GOOD YEAR; the journey of a California wine from vine to table (Gotham Books, 2005; distr. Penguin, 278 pages, ISBN 1-592-40129- 5, $36 hard covers) is by Mike Weiss, a writer at the San Francisco Chronicle. This is a look at the 2002 Fume Blanc made by Ferrari-Carano Vineyards in Sonoma County (13.7% alcohol, sauvignon blanc grapes; 70,000 cases, $14 retail, the winery’s best selling wine). The look includes the bottle, the cork, the label, the marketing campaign, etc. It begins with the first grapes picked by Mexican migrant workers through to the initial public tastings at the Four Seasons in New York City. Weiss’s work was originally a 60,000 word series of articles in the San Francisco Chronicle, and then it got turned into a book. From November 2001 through March 2002 Weiss describes what the vines did, the terroir of the region and its history, rootstocks and grafting, the wine industry in context of the F-C winery. From the bud break on March 22 through to the harvest of September 13, Weiss covers the weather and growing conditions for the six vineyards involved. Much of this involved hanging out with the viticulturalist and the workers. September and October were months for vinification, fermentation and the barreling process. Weiss here begins a discourse on the oak treatment and the yeasts used (e.g., some yeasts promote grassiness). Second year French oak barrels are used for partial Barrel Fermentation. November 2002 to January 2003 is dedicated to marketing, distribution and restaurants, following up with sales meetings and discounting issues. The final blend of 23 lots comes in March 2003, along with filtration and stabilization. The rest of the spring is spent seeking press reviews and tastings. This is really a good account of a year in the life of a winery. Audience and level of use: the serious wine collector who is fascinated by these accounts, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: The marketing director says “One of the things I hope you don’t spill the beans on is we’re as large as we are. A lot of people who buy our wines think we’re a 25,000 case winery. Every winery wants to be perceived as small”. F-C produces over 200,000 cases of wine a year. What I don’t like about this book: there is one major fault: no index! It is exceedingly difficult to retrieve information. He also uses a too-cute industry insider called “Deep Cork”. And personally, I would have chosen a red wine to follow. Then, we’d have a more complex story. What I do like about this book: his reasons for picking the Fume Blanc in the first place. He also has a section on the power of the Wine Spectator (they scored the F-C Fume Blanc at 85). Parker is almost never mentioned since he has never reviewed any F-C wines. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 16. WINDOWS ON THE WORLD COMPLETE WINE COURSE: 2006 edition (Sterling Publishing, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 276 pages, ISBN 1-4027- 2639-2, $35.95 hard covers) is by Kevin Zraly, an award winning wine expert and long-time sommelier of that late, lamented restaurant atop the (no more) World Trade Center. This has been newly revised and expanded for its twentieth anniversary edition. Indeed, it has even come down three dollars in price! (I last reviewed this book in 2002). It has frequently been revised since its first edition in 1985. Now it has been redesigned in layout, has 32 pages of brand new material, and more recommendations in his tour of the latest vintages. Over 20,000 students have taken Zraly's courses and workshops. This is the text that comes with the courses, and as such, it serves as a suitable book for almost any introductory wine course. It certainly does address the needs of students and beginners: the style-format is "question and answer", on what wine is, tasting wine (how to taste wine over sixty seconds), wine service at home and in restaurants, storage and cellaring. He avoids the markup controversies; however, one can compare a number of different sections and conclude that he favours 3 to 4 times the wholesale price. The bulk of the arrangement is by "classes", with ones for white wine, red wines, champagne, fortified, and wines from outside France and the United States -- still in the Q & A format, augmented by a continuous stream of sidebars and tidbits which extend the answers. There is a chapter co-written with Andrea Immer on matching wines with foods. Throughout, too, there are full-colour reproductions of wine labels. The book concludes with a glossary and a pronunciation key, as well as bibliographic notes for further reference reading. Audience: the learner, also restaurant personnel (a big chunk of this book deals with restaurant service and pricing). What I do not like about this book: his recommendations for everyday, once a week, and once a month wines (all based on price) are a bit out of whack with reality. People do drink better wines at home. The everyday wines are $10 and under. With US discounting, this comes in at about $7 apiece. These are guzzling wines, patios, parties, etc. Not “everyday” for home. His everyday wines should really be the “once a week” at the $10 – 20 level. Anybody who’ll be buying this book is a serious wine drinker. What I do like about this book: all of the tidbits are mostly indexed, and all of the basics are covered. Quality/Price Ratio: 90 17. INDOOR GRILLING; 50 recipes for electric grills, stovetop grills, and smokers (Quarry Press, 2005; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-59253-205-5, $23.99 paper covers) is by Dwayne Ridgeway, a food and beverage consultant and author who specializes in niche cookbooks such as this one. He has others on lasagna, panini, and pizza. His 50 recipes here follow the commercial success of many indoor grills. As he points out, grilling is economical, flavourful, and relatively healthy. With electric and stovetop cookers and wood-chip smokers, grilling can be done year round inside the home. His techniques involve different kinds of pans and shavings. His recipes include all courses, even vegetables and desserts. Sauces and marinades are vital here, to protect the food from drying out. Each recipe has BOTH volume and metric measurements for each ingredient, which is great. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes: smoked sweet potato mash, grilled honey pepper scallops with wild rice risotto, griddle cakes with cherry-smoked salmon, grilled chicken wings with dipping sauce, grilled pressed pastrami on rye. What I don’t like about this book: houses still need proper venting hoods. More recipes would have been useful. What I do like about this book: pretty basic stuff. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 18. CHEESE; a connoisseur’s guide to the world’s best (Clarkson Potter, 2005, 304 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5034-0, $45 hard covers) is by Max McCalman and David Gibbons. McCalman is associated with the Artisanal Cheese Center in NYC; Gibbons is a focusing food and wine writer. Their earlier book, “The Cheese Plate” was nominated for both James Beard and IACP awards. This is a handbook to 200 best varieties. Each ranked at or near the top of a 100-point quality scale. (McCalman, in doing a Parker, will now be responsible for the globalization of cheese!! – there’s even a blurb by Parker on the dust jacket. The arrangement is alphabetical by name of the cheese. Each entry has notes on history, provenance, producers, production (how made), appearance, strength, and quality. There is also a pronunciation guide for each. The authors make recommendations for the best possible wine pairings for each cheese. In addition, the book has tips and advice on shopping, storage, and assembling a cheese platter. The principles of cheese tasting are also explained. In case you are interested, Roquefort gets a 98, Parmigiano- Reggiano is 97, Stilton is 95, Caerphilly is 93, and Brie de Melun is 87. I have a basic conflict here since my nephew’s cheeses are listed (Fort Collins, Colorado). There is an index to cheeses by country and a general index. Audience and level of use: cheese lovers, hospitality schools, upscale restaurants. Some interesting or unusual facts: three cheeses are here from Quebec: Chaput Vacherin Mont D’Or, Le Chevre Noir, and Foin d’Odeur. What I don’t like about this book: they recommend California Zinfandel as a marriage made in heave for Zamorano cheese, yet it is just sixth in a list under the name of the cheese. There is NO explanation of the 100 point system, or of strength codes: there is just a statement in the Introduction that 100 points will be used, and no statement on Strength. Neither the point system nor the strength system are indexed. What I do like about this book: great close-ups of the cheeses, showing ripeness and runniness. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 19. OLIVIER ROELLINGER’S CONTEMPORARY FRENCH CUISINE; fifty recipes inspired by the sea (Flammarion, 2005; distr. by Random House, 240 pages, ISBN 2-080-30488-7, $70 hard covers) is by the Michelin-starred chef of Les Maisons de Bricourt in Brittany. He has published several books in French on food and Brittany. In this one, he has 49 food recipes plus 4 drinks. The emphasis is on seafood using 18 specific ingredients from abroad, to show cross-cultural influences. Thus, there are about three recipes for each ingredient (chili peppers, pineapples, cloves, cumin, artichokes, and tomatoes). His signature dish is scallops with 14 exotic spices, as prepared in 18th century Brittany. He has his own sources of supply, and sells his own blends of spices. This is more of an art book, with great looking photos and sketches. A galley motif is used throughout, such as employing “rigging” for equipment needed, “cruising time” for prep and cooking times, “from the ship’s hold” for a choice from the wine cellar, “provisions” for the list of ingredients, “setting the course” for cooking instructions, and “landfall” for how long the dish will keep. It all gets wearing after awhile. Some metric measurements are used. Audience and level of use: cult chefs, celebrity cook collectors, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: lobster pieces and pineapple and salted butter, wild salmon with raw apple and nutmeg and mace, foie gras and squid with fennel apple, fresh goat cheese with bell peppers and chili peppers and angelica oil, fresh oysters and asparagus with puffed linseeds and turmeric, artichokes and scallops with apples. What I don’t like about this book: a heavy book, with many gratuitous photos. The index is only by course. What I do like about this book: unique presentation, a useful contribution to a limited area. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 20. 4000 CHAMPAGNES (Flammarion, 2004; distr. by Random House, 384 pages, ISBN 2-080-30470-4, $84 hard covers) is by Richard Juhlin, a Swedish champagne expert and author of other champagne books. This current work contains more than 4000 tasting notes. Part one deals with the culture and history of the region and wine production. One hundred pages run through food matches, labels, towns in the area, and some grudging (I can feel it) notes on sparkling wines from other regions in eight pages, four of which detail other parts of France! Part two are the tasting notes. He describes each house, gives each a rating, and then the notes (each note is dated). These 250 pages form a buying and tasting guide. He has several lists of top or best champagnes, names and addresses, phone numbers, statistics, glossary. He’s tough as nails: there are no notes for wines scored under 79. Audience and level of use: champagne lovers, collectors, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Cordon Negro is a “grapey wine that suffers from a repulsive chemical odour: half hair treatment half burnt plastic” (p.112) His 100 best champagnes are all vintaged dated. What I don’t like about this book: since the book is about French champagne, why bother with the eight pages dealing with non-Champagnes? No purchaser of an $84 book is really interested in Spanish Cava, German sekt, etc. What I do like about this book: the best NV champagnes that we have here for Ontario purchase are Henriot B de B (85), Gosset Grand Reserve (83), Bollinger (82), Roederer (82), Pol Roger (80) and Veuve Cliquot (79). Quality/Price Ratio: 84, dollar a point. 21. CHOCOLATE; discovering, exploring, enjoying (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-960-4, $16.95 hard covers) is by Sara Jayne Stanes, is both a chocolatier and an award-winning UK food writer. The basics here are how to buy it, cook it, and enjoy it. There is an opening chapter on chocolate’s history from its origins in Mexico. Types covered are dark, milk, white, pralines, truffles, and, of course, hot chocolate. There are reproductions of older advertisements. She has a basic recipe section, with 10 preps on ice creams, brownies, cakes. The resource list is all US, and there are metric conversion charts for the US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: the chocolate lover. Some interesting or unusual facts: the cocoa bean is very complex – it has 300 different flavours and 400 aromas. What I don’t like about this book: the “Business Credits” at the end smacks of advertising and paybacks. What I do like about this book: there is a discussion on organic chocolate, which is variable in flavours. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 22. ON TOAST (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-956-6, $16.95 hard covers) is by Susannah Blake, a food writer. This engaging little book of some 27 recipes covers breakfast, brunch, lunch and light dinners, as well as snacks and desserts. There are also four basic toast recipes. Basic stuff is covered, such as mushrooms on toast (also known as SOS, Sh*t on a Shingle). There are metric conversion charts for the US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: beginners, singles. Some interesting or unusual recipes: toasted brioche with lemon cream and raspberries, marinated red onions and anchovies on focaccia fingers, grilled zucchini and feta on crisp ciabatta, caramelized shallots on parmesan toasts, beets and sour cream on crunchy rye, giant prosciutto and brie and tomato toasts. What I don’t like about this book: could be bigger, with more recipes. What I do like about this book: nice idea for a sort of unique book. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 23. PARTY COCKTAILS (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-970-1, $13.95 hard covers) And 24. HANGOVER CURES (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-972-8, $13.95 hard covers) are both by Ben Reed, a British bartender and beverage writer-consultant. Both are slim books. The Party book has recipes for one, with no punches and no wine drinks (just champagne). What’s a party without a big drink bucket somewhere for people to help themselves? The host shouldn’t have to make individual drinks all night long. There are 34 alcoholic and 4 non-alcoholic drinks in this book. The Hangover book tells you what to do before drinking and after a party. There are 28 hangover cures, and most involve more liquor. The overall idea, of course, since alcohol dehydrates, is to get more liquid into your system. Reed also gives some antidotes to nausea and headaches. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual facts: in France, the hangover cure is to drink hot onion soup the morning after. What I don’t like about this book: really too brief a treatment for a hard back book. What I do like about this book: metric conversion charts. The Hangover books has cures from around the world. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 25. SPANISH COUNTRY KITCHEN; traditional recipes for the home cook (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1- 84172-946-9, $34.95 hard covers) is by Linda Tubby, a UK food writer and stylist. These 62 recipes cover a wide range from tapas through soups and meats and seafood and desserts. It is one of a series from this publisher dealing with family dining restaurants, such as “Bistro” and “Trattoria” (can “Taverna” for Greek food be far behind?). The classics are all here: gazpacho, garlic soup, paella, garlic shrimp, tortilla, fried cheese. There is a section on mail orders, specialist suppliers, and websites, all (unfortunately for us) in the US. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes: potato fritters with chorizo, orange and potato salad, pomegranate salad with frisee leaves, el cocido, and chicken empanada. What I don’t like about this book: all sources are US, and there is no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: good close up photos (Tubby did her own food styling). Quality/Price Ratio: 80. 26. EASY ITALIAN; simple recipes for every occasion (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 1-84172-950-7, $27.95 hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a UK food writer and teacher who spends time in Sicily and Tuscany. 13 preps come from Silvana Frano who is not identified. Most of the 100 recipes here cover pasta, pizza and sweets. All courses are covered (antipasti, soup, through meats and desserts). These are the basics, such as bruschetta and ribollita soup. There is a metric conversion chart for the volume measurements. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes: spinach with anchovies and pine nuts, Sicilian chickpea and rosemary fritters, mushroom mezzaluna, cannelloni, pasta with creamy salmon sauce, soft polenta with ragu sauce. What I don’t like about this book: Italian cooking is, by definition, already “easy”. So what’s the point? A better title might have been “Simple Italian”. What I do like about this book: well-developed index. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 27. ALL ABOUT WINE (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2005; distr. by T. Allen, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84172-966-3, $34.95 hard covers) is by Jonathan Ray, a UK wine writer and Wine Editor of the Daily Telegraph. Some of this text was previously published in his earlier, smaller books. Basics are discussed: why wine tastes the way it does; the various red and white grape varieties; the grape growing regions; how to choose wine; and matching food with wine. There is a glossary of terms. Websites are indicated for both UK and the US, including Jancis Robinson, Robert Parker, Decanter, Wine Spectator, plus a handful of merchants. Audience and level of use: beginners Some interesting or unusual facts: unlike France, both Spain and Italy designate their “reserve” wines to indicate a certain period in oak. What I don’t like about this book: tries to cover too much and makes jumps and conclusions such as on page 28 with New World and Old World pinot noir. What I do like about this book: economical style. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 28. THE SEXY BITCH’S PARTY; living it, throwing it, and being it (Ulysses Press, 2005; distr. by Raincoast, 162 pages, ISBN 1-56975-474- 8, $16.50 paper covers) is by Lulu Davidson, who teaches writing in the Pacific Northwest. This is an attitude book, and more power to it. Here are bona fide party ideas, hangover helpers, and party crisis management advice. Other topics covered include unconventional places to party, nights out on the town, how to party all year long, suggestions for theme parties, plus the usual girls’ night parties. There are details on various games, as well as food and cocktail recipes, such as the Titanic salad (sits aboard a pile of iceberg lettuce) and Lord of the Calamari Rings. A fun book. Audience and level of use: for the hostess with the mostest fun and the leastest work, a perfect gift book. Some interesting or unusual facts: grrls just wanna have fun What I don’t like about this book: no index What I do like about this book: quizzes (multiple choices) Quality/Price Ratio: 89. AS AN ADDDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR AUGUST 2005 ============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! But first, these two “visual” and “audio” resources – 1. DVD: MONDOVINO (ThinkFilm, 2005, $34.99 SRP, Catalogue No. TF-53455, 135 minutes, 16:9 anamorphic widescreen, English and French (plus relevant sub-titles) also includes 50 more minutes (actually, it is “part six” of the director’s 10-part documentary skedded for TV and a future DVD release) plus director Jonathan Nossiter’s commentary. As most of us know by now, the 135 minute documentary (out of 500 hours shot) concerns the globalization of wine, with notes on the major players in Europe and America. The European section is mostly winemakers and owners; the USA section is mostly PR flacks, wine importers, and wine writers. There is also a lot of mutual sneering. Bulk wines are not covered. Mondovino was filmed over three years, and it has a definite point of view (POV). But then, all documentaries should have a point of view. In the original doc, over 22 dogs were introduced to the screen. In the 50-minute extra, three more dogs were added. The extra covers some nice bits about Parker and the Burgundy lawsuit. We are also introduced to more people NOT in the main film, such as the Wine Spectator offices and a plastic surgeon. Mondovino was shot with a digital camera, and in the transfer to DVD it seems to have lost its graininess, and this is a good thing. The picture is clearer, and the subtitles run through ok. In fact the subtitles in the main film are far better than the titles in the extra. If you have NEVER seen Mondovino before, it makes more sense to see the film for the first time with the director’s commentary ON. Most of the film is in non-English, and thus there are plenty of sub-titles to read. The commentary acts as a voiceover, which I thought that the original film badly needed. Nossiter explains here what micro-oxygenate means (the botox of wine, to artificially make wine taste better). Nossiter also clarifies what Aime Guibert from Mas de Daumas Gassac said (he had stated that “great wines can be made anywhere”, when he actually meant to say “good wines can be made anywhere”: he misspoke and wanted to take it back, but the camera never lies). Michel Rolland regrets having spoken so badly about Languedoc wines and people; he also claims that he never said certain things nor laughed the way he did. But the camera never lies. Nossiter – and others – objected to Michael Mondavi’s description of the mayor (in Languedoc, who tossed the Mondavis out) as being a “communist mayor”, but that’s what he was: a member of the French Communist Party. There is nothing inherently bad in being a member of the French Communist Party. It might have been more objectionable if Mondavi had said “communistic mayor” (with a sneer). But he didn’t, and he didn’t sneer when he said “communist mayor”. It was the same tone as “liberal Prime Minister Martin”. Anyway, nothing sells as well as controversy! Nossiter brings us uptodate, as of last year, on the activities of the Mondavis and the Europeans. Time moves on, of course, and the antagonisms between Rolland and the Antinoris have mysteriously disappeared: it was announced in July 2005 that Rolland has signed on to be a consultant on some joint ventures with the Antinoris. The individuality of the wines is a reflection of the individuality of the people concerned. There are just as many mass marketers in Europe as in North America, but they seem to be presented here in a more humane fashion. The POV again. Ultimately, the “good” or “great” wines want you to be able to taste the terroir: this is Burgundy, this is Bordeaux, this is Napa, this is Barolo, and this is Chianti. All the bulk or inexpensive wines can be made anywhere, and there is no sense of place. Does any of this matter? A wine is just a drink, but should a great wine only be known by the territory it sprung from? In many cases, it’s just an ego trip for the winemakers or owners, to have their wines acknowledged as BEING MADE BY THEM and nobody else. This is an Antinori, this is a Gaja, this is a Mondavi and so forth. To serve as a memorial, to perpetuate their memory, the cypress trees of the wine world. Buy the DVD and see for yourself… Audience and level of use: anybody the least bit curious about wine. Some interesting or unusual facts: this wine culture film features interviews with Michel Rolland, Robert Parker, Hubert de Montille, Aime Guibert, Robert Mondavi, and many others. What I don’t like about this DVD: the portrayal of Italian dogs – they were vicious. Seriously, I thought the doc needed more commentary on the impact of wine writers, and on the lack of impact of wine writers. Wine merchants were ignored. What I do like about this DVD: good POV coverage, an effective case was made, lots of interviews in which people came across as they really were in life. I cannot wait for the large ten-parter to come out. Quality/Price Ratio: hard to beat for the price, say 95. 2. SPOKEN WORD CD: ** NOTE: This is a major conflict-of-interest since Ann Tudor is my wife. It is a descriptive annotation, not a review. ** TALES FROM MY TABLE; food for thought (Molten Gold, 2005, ISBN 0- 920003-04-4, running time of 75 minutes, audio-book CD with 13 “opinionated” recipes, $17.50 includes taxes, shipping and handling from ann@anntudor.ca or at www.anntudor.ca; send your shipping address, and she will confirm by return email) is written and narrated by Ann Tudor, a Toronto writer of creative non-fiction. This is her third CD, and the first of a series about food in her life. It is a collection of 12 true stories exploring the way food influences our lives and our memories, the thrill of eating what you love to eat and cooking what you love to cook: Anne Lamott meets Garrison Keillor. Each piece is bracketed by a short musical sketch that reflects the mood of the story. The suggested audience includes anyone who likes spoken-word CDs, especially cooks listening in the kitchen while working and drivers motoring through traffic. The CD-ROM portion of the disc includes 13 recipes related to the stories, for guacamole, pea salad, dried tomatoes, et al. * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 3. THE EMPEROR OF WINE; the rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the reign of American taste (Ecco, 2005; distr. HarperCollins, 342 pages, ISBN 0- 06-009368-4, $36.95 hard covers) is by Elin McCoy, who has been writing about wine for about 30 years. She is currently the wine and spirits columnist for “Bloomberg Markets”. She also had full access to Parker during the writing of this book (by telephone, in his home, and on the road). This is the first (and hopefully only) book to chronicle the rise of Robert Parker, the world’s most powerful wine writer. His newsletter “The Wine Advocate” (45,000 subscribers plus shelf talkers) is the single most significant influence on consumers’ wine buying habits around the world. He has ruled the wine world, as Emperor, for the past 20 years. His power has established US tastes. His methods? His simple, unabashed enthusiasms, plus consumer crusades and high moral principles, were numerically rated on your basic high school grading system. This “aw shucks” style, Ralph Nader approach, no conflicts-of-interest attitude, and the numbers were things that most Americans could identify with. He is also polite: I remember viewing a video shot in the 1980s, about tasting Burgundies. Robert Joseph, Clive Coates, and others were swirling, tasting and spitting before commenting on a dozen wines. Parker, in one of his first public appearances, never spat, and as he progressed through the wines his face became more and more flushed. McCoy takes us through the early newsletter years and the vapid competition of other wine publications, the Brit writers who couldn’t stand the “holier-than-thou” Parker crusades (mainly against their conflicts-of-interest), his overthetop love for the 1982 Bordeaux wines (it is interesting that only three North American writers tasted the 1982 futures by March 1983: Robert Finigan didn’t like them, and soon after, his newsletter declined in influence), the book writing, the Faiveley lawsuit, the tasting circuit and his quickness to feel slighted. The book is also about the rise of the globalization of wine: what sells well are “fruit bomb” wines that Parker raves about. The easy solution is to make wines that Parker likes. Thus, fruit bombs dominate the marketplace – no matter what the country of origin. Terroir loses as every wine begins to taste the same. Parker’s main problem? His unbridled enthusiasm in the 1970s and 1980s turned off many people everywhere (US, France, UK, Italy). In reading through this book I was struck by the tremendous amount of jealousy, the love-hate relationships, the finger-pointing, and the pissing contests. It’s a male thing, and it is all about power. It is also compounded by the fact that Parker is hypersensitive. Yet it is one of the Laws of Journalism that writers absolutely MUST have a thick skin. McCoy’s book gives a good context and history of wine writing and appreciation in the U.S. before Parker’s emergence; she brings back memories for me as I had written about this period in my 1975 book. The book concludes with a wine tasting glossary, a bibliography of Parker’s writings, and a bibliography of general wine books, magazines, articles, and websites. Audience and level of use: anyone interested in the fascinating world of wine writing and wine criticism. It’s all about power. Some interesting or unusual facts: From Parker: “until 1978 most wine writers were essentially on the take”. From McCoy: “the Parker of the twenty-first century now routinely praised over-the-top Cabernets that the sideburned publisher a quarter-century before would have slammed as overly alcoholic, corpulent Bordeaux wannabes.”(p.278). “So much of what Parker says he stands for cause the opposite to happen.” (p.298), and she then proceeds to list seven of them. From Michel Bettane (a major French wine writer): “Parker is just doing his job as a wine writer. The [Bordeaux] wine trade helped create the problem. When he helped them with the 2000 vintage no one complained. Now he says the prices are too high, don’t buy, so he’s a bad guy.” What I don’t like about this book: I wished that McCoy had explored more about the authenticity of barrel samples. The subject was alluded to in the book a few times, and she may have been constrained by the libel chill of the Faiveley lawsuit. Nossiter, in his audio commentary for the Mondovino DVD, says that no one in Burgundy would talk to McCoy about the case. McCoy also mentions (once) that Parker is a “lefty”, without exploring the phenomenon that there are more left-handed people who are wine writers than the proportion of 10% within the general population. Indeed, anecdotal evidence suggests that up to 30% of wine writers are lefties. Creativity? The bibliography of articles is difficult to use since it is arranged by title and not by author. Some entries are vague, e.g., ““Letters to the Editor”, Decanter, many issues” is totally useless. At one point she describes a twice a month newspaper column as “bimonthly” (it should be “semi-monthly”). What I do like about this book: the Emperor has no clothes? Read the book, especially in conjunction with the Mondovino DVD. Particularly note the differences between McCoy’s account of Parker visiting Staglin Winery in Napa, and Nossiter’s visit to the same place. It is all about power (or did I mention that already?). Quality/Price Ratio: 95 (hey, that’s a Parker number!) * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 4. VEGETARIAN SUPPERS FROM DEBORAH MADISON’S KITCHEN (Broadway Books, 2005; distr. Random House Canada, 228 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1627-1, $39.95 hard covers) is by the renowned Julia Child and James Beard multiple award winner. Madison is just about the best vegetarian cookbook writer in the world. This is her first collection of a wide variety of mains, more than 100 of them. The range is from quick meals for weekdays to leisurely meals for weekends. The contents range from savoury pies, gratins, stews, pastas, crepes, fritters, tofu and tempeh, through to egg dishes and sandwiches. All seasons are in play, with the lighter meals for summer and heartier ones for winter. She gives several great ideas for making supper more enjoyable, some of the more intangibles. Vegan variations are listed. It comes at a price: you must have a decent pantry of items such as canned organic beans and tomatoes, organic milk and cheese, eggs, organic frozen peas, corn and spinach, dried and fresh mushrooms, capers, and olive oil. Of course, she has many suggestions for side dishes and desserts, and these are drawn from recipes in her other books (which you’ll need, and of course you’ll already have them!). Audience and level of use: just about everyone, cooking schools, hospitality trade chefs wishing to add some vegetable main courses to their menus. Some interesting or unusual recipes: onion and rosemary tart with fromage blanc, chard and onion torta, crookneck squash and rice gratin, winter squash green curry, spinach crepe cake, red sweet potato curry with bok choy and shallots. What I don’t like about this book: U.S. volume measurements, but with no metric equivalents tables. What I do like about this book: She also lists some wine recommendations, which are also useful. There is a long, extended index. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 5. TRUE BLUEBERRY; delicious recipes for every meal (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, ISBN 1-58479-417-8, 128 pages, $31.50 hard covers) is by Linda Dannenberg, food and travel magazine writer, author of “Perfect Vinaigrettes”. The stress is on the healthy side of blueberries. Never mind that they cost a lot of money: blueberries have been proven to fight cancer, diabetes, cholesterol, and memory loss. She has a chapter on the health – low carb side (fibre, anti-oxidant, etc.). A cup a day is beneficial, but ideally you should be gobbling them down by the basket. These 80 recipes come from home cooks, diners, and celebrity cooks, and cover the range from dips to desserts. She uses cultivated, wild, fresh, frozen, and dried. But not canned. U.S. measurements are used, but there is a metric conversion chart. She also has a nifty resources list – all U.S. – for blueberry products via mail order. Audience and level of use: blueberry fans Some interesting or unusual recipes: blueberry beet borscht, blueberry buttermilk biscuits, roast marinated duck with blueberry sauce, lobster dipped in blueberry glaze. What I don’t like about this book: the paper is excessively heavy; there is a curious bibliography of five items, some really old books. What I do like about this book: useful single ingredient book. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 6. SALMON (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 0- 8118-4212-6, $24.95 paper covers) is by Diane Morgan, who has authored many cookbooks for Chronicle Books. She gives a decent guide to salmon lore (salmon family members, wild versus farmed, health and environment information) as well as data on storing, filleting, curing, smoking, poaching, sautéing, pan-roasting, frilling and BBQ. A full range of dishes covers all courses: there are 10 apps, 7 soups, 11 pasta/grains, 10 main salads, 16 mains, 9 brunch dishes (omelets, frittata, blintz, pie, quiche, hash, etc.). U.S. volume measurements are used, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Each recipe gets two pages, and –- oh joy – there are wine recommendations for each course. The resource list is all US except for one from Scotland and one from Ireland. Audience and level of use: food people, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Vietnamese salad rolls, grilled salmon tacos with chipotle sauce, pan-roasted salmon with warm French lentil salad, spicy corn stew with salmon, hot smoked salmon salad. What I don’t like about this book: there’s no mention of Willy Krauch salmon from Nova Scotia. The page references are in the gutter margin, making it difficult to find a page number while flipping the leaves. What I do like about this book: excellent layout. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 7. WINE INVESTMENT FOR PORTFOLIO DIVERSIFICATION; how collecting fine wines can yield greater returns than stocks and bonds (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2005, 179 pages, ISBN 1-891267-84-1, $58 hard covers) is by Mahesh Kumar, MBA, currently teaching finance at Mount Royal College in Calgary. The major problem with this book is that everybody KNOWS wine increases in value and that greater yields are possible. That has been anecdotally known for some time: that fine wine has a higher expected return relative to its overall contribution of risk (it is not as volatile). Kumar proves it using Markowitz Theory, but so what? The resulting technical book has a U.S. and U.K. investor focus. Kumar point out, quite rightly, that the stock market dive of 2000/2002 reminded all of us of the importance of portfolio diversification. Don’t put your money into only one thing (that includes wine). Don’t churn, to avoid sales premiums at auctions. Invest for the long term, as people did with gold in the 1970s and real estate in the 1980s. He has developed a “Fine Wine 50 Index” of 10 red Bordeaux from different vintages. There are 101 pages of text, followed by appendices of thirty tables of returns and ratios. Many people (including wine writers) react negatively to the thought of wine investments, claiming wine is hedonistic pleasure and not crass commercial marketplace material. Personally, I have used the Broadbent approach (see below) but I won’t be selling my wines; I am now enjoying my investments, such as a Cote Rotie 1985 with my dinner tonight…The book concludes with end notes, bibliographies, and internet sites. Bottom line: holding fine wine as part of a diversified portfolio of traditional financial assets (equities and bonds) enhances expected returns. Audience and level of use: investors, speculators. Some interesting or unusual facts: From Michael Broadbent – “My advice is to buy the wines you particularly like, of good vintages only – and with your own money – and look forward to enjoying them when mature. With luck and good management you might have the additional benefit of reselling the stock surplus of your drinking requirements at a price that reflects its enhanced quality and diminished availability”. What I don’t like about this book: limited value to Canadians unless they go for off-shore storage and sales. There is no guarantee that the LCBO will continue to have sales auctions twenty years from now. What I do like about this book: useful for estate planning and valuation. He has a good discussion on “alternative investments” (fine wine, fine art, antiques). Broadbent’s introduction furnishes an engaging history of Christie’s Fine Wine Auctions. Quality/Price Ratio: to convince non-wine lovers, 88. 8. IT’S ABOUT TIME; great recipes for everyday life (Steerforth Press, 2005, distr. Random House Canada, 232 pages, ISBN 1-58642-087-9, $50 hard covers) is by Michael Schlow, awarded many accolades from the James Beard Foundation, magazines and even Robert Mondavi winery. He is currently the executive chef and co-owner of three restaurants in Boston. The 150 recipes cover a broad compass of basic food (30 minute meals that are mainly salads, or pasta or cold foods; BBQ; and entertaining meals) with informative sidebars and some helpful advice. He has a special chapter on spending an entire day in the kitchen, with a bottle of wine and some music to ease the stress of cooking. He tries to give the reader some culinary therapy and advice on how to eat well at all times, even on the go. This is commendable, and for the most part it succeeds. His emphasis is on slow cooking at 300 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. This is almost slow food. He presents some winter tasting menus (feasts) and some spring tasting menus (luncheons). As is too common with many of these books from south of the border, all the recipes are in U.S. volume measurements with NO tables of metric equivalents. By now we should have learned to post a photocopy of such tables on our fridge: but where would the family pictures go? Audience and level of use: the time-challenged home cook, celebrity chef collector. Some interesting or unusual recipes: gnocchi with vegetable pearls, loin of lamb with quick ratatouille, red wine-braised brisket, broccolini with spicy soy and orange zest, grilled fennel sausages, cassoulet. What I don’t like about this book: there’s an awful lot of introductory matter on Schlow himself. What I do like about this book: clear layout of the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 9. HOW TO COOK EVERYTHING: BITTMAN TAKES ON AMERICA’S CHEFS (Wiley Publishing, 2005, 260 pages, ISBN 0-7645-7014-5, $35.99 hard covers) is by Mark Bittman, author of the “How to Cook” series. This current book accompanies the PBS television series of the same name. Here, Bittman goes mano a mano with 13 celebrity chefs and their sophisticated creations. There are 120 recipes, arranged by course. Each recipe gives a chef’s version followed by Bittman’s simpler construction. Cooking and prep times are indicated. Bittman has observations, cooking tips, and FYIs scattered throughout. There are the obligatory photos of the chefs and Bittman in action: Jean-Georges Vongerichten (NY) with tart tatin spin-offs, Daniel Boulud (NY) with lamb (stuffed saddle vs. Bittman’s stuffed shoulder), Suzanne Goin (LA) with bread pudding (brioche vs. easy), and Gary Danko (SF) with persimmons, and others. On one level, there is no denying that Bittman’s deconstructions are easier to do, and just as tasty – but still…. Audience and level of use: TV chefs, home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: see above. What I don’t like about this book: photos don’t really show much. Also, the U.S. volume measurements have no tables of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: This is a great idea for a fun cookbook. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 10. CRAVE; the feast of the 5ive senses (Regan Books, 2005; distr. HarperCollins, 252 pages, ISBN 0-06-001285-4, $64.95 hard covers) is by Ludo Lefebvre, who trained at Michelin three star French restos (including Pierre Gagnaire), rising to executive chef at Los Angeles’s L’Orangerie. He is now executive chef at Bastide in L.A. These guys get around. Martin Booe is the focusing writer. The 100 recipes come in a coffee table-sized book (just add screw-in legs). The emphasis is on senses: taste for balance and contrast, hear sound for differences, touch for testing food, sight for appearance, and smell for timing. Recipes are arranged by sense, with two pages for each prep. There is also some extravagance, such as using a half-bottle of cognac in his lobster stock. Since his book is part biographical, there is quite a lot of text. He emphasizes two fundamentals: how to market and how to choose spices and herbs. U.S. volume measurements are used, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: intermediate to advanced home cooks, cookbook collectors, cult chefs, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: braised veal shank with honey- artichokes-swiss chard, carpaccio of broccoli with saffron oil, eggs on toast with porcini mushroom coulis and truffle sauce, green apple and calvados granite, fried candied milk with green cardamom, whole dorade with salt crust. What I don’t like about this book: there are way too many pictures of Ludo. And in half of his pix, he’s wearing a nose stud (and none in the other half). The resources guide is mostly Californian. What I do like about this book: he uses a fair bit of lemon verbena and verjus. There is also a fairly well-developed index. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 11. A HISTORY OF THE WORLD IN 6 GLASSES (Doubleday Canada, 2005, 311 pages, ISBN 0-385-66086-3, $32.95 hard covers) is by Tom Standage, technology editor at “The Economist”. He tells the story of civilization (in about 275 pages) through the study of six drinks and their influence on humanity: beer in Mesopotamia and Egypt, wine in Greece and Rome, spirits in England and Colonial America, coffee in the Age of Reason, tea and the British Empire, Coca-Cola and US imperialism. Of course, it is popular history, especially since these are “God Given Drinks”. But it is a good handle and hook for a social and business history, to tie in how alcohol and caffeine (three of each type) drives the world. Each beverage advances culture and civilization; all are celebratory and are storage replacements for water. We learn that beer was used to pay wages in Mesopotamia and Egypt; wine was the main export of Greece; spirits fortified sailors and drove the slave trade; coffee was the beverage of choice in the (focusing) Age of Reason; tea trade dictated British foreign policy in the 19th century; cola becomes a symbol of globalization and the U.S. leading export. Appendices detail how you can try to recreate some ancient drinks of the time (Egyptian beers, Roman wine, English tea). For example, coffee should be two days old and over-percolated. Not in my house….At the back, he has research end notes and a bibliography of sources. Audience and level of use: young people, inexperienced readers. Some interesting or unusual facts: while wine culture was important in religion (Greece, Rome, Hebrew, Christian but opposed by Islam), “to serve a modern wine in the Greek or Roman manner, the main thing is to remember to dilute it with water”. Also: several contemporary firms still make specialty colas using old-fashioned recipes (Fentiman’s Curiosity Cola has extract of guavana berries and catuaba bark). What I don’t like about this book: broad sweeping statements are mainly summaries. There is no real mention of spirits in Europe, such as gin or Scotch in the U.K. The black and white photos and reproductions are somewhat murky. There are only 29 lines of type per page, lots of leading, making it seem as if there is lots of text. What I do like about this book: good quotes to illustrate his themes Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 12. LA COCINA DE MAMA; the great home cooking of Spain (Broadway Books, 2005; distr. Random House Canada, 308 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1222-5, $42 hard covers) is by Penelope Casas, probably America’s foremost Spanish cuisine expert through her tours, magazine articles, and cook books (e.g., Tapas). This book has 175 recipes of Spanish home cooking at its best. All regions and all courses (tapas to desserts) are covered, and the recipes are both sourced and credited to chefs and cooks. Spanish food has been influenced by the Romans, the Moors, and the peasants; it uses lots of garlic, olive oil, leans meats and veggies. Casas presents sidebars for more details on ingredients and local traditions, as well as specific notes on the Spanish pantry, cheeses and wines. She uses U.S. measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. As well, she has a source list for Spanish products with US addresses only. Audience and level of use: Spanish food lovers, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Catalan fish and potatoes with alioli, Manchego cheese canapés with olives and piquillos, Basque red bean stew, chickpea stew with bolos, baked stuffed squid in almond sauce, almond and egg yolk tart. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine recommendations. The colour bars at the top of pages are used to indicate how far ahead you can make a dish, but they are hard to read, and in fact, they look too much like just plain layout decorations. This needs a re-think. What I do like about this book: the index is in both English and Spanish, for both recipes and ingredients. The photos, while apart from the dish they describe, do have page references to the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 13. THE TROUT POINT LODGE COOKBOOK; creole cuisine from New Orleans to Nova Scotia (Random House Canada, 2004. 235 pages, ISBN 0-679-31247-1, $45 hard covers) is by Daniel Abel, Charles Leary, and Vaughn Perret, founders of the Lodge and the Inn at Coyote Mountain in Costa Rica. Collectively, the trio have won numerous awards during their 15 years as food entrepreneurs, covering cheese making, cooking schools, farms, restaurants, chefing, Food Network, and magazine article writing. Currently, they divide their time between Nova Scotia, Louisiana, Spain and Costa Rica. Trout Point Lodge is in Yarmouth County (Nova Scotia) which has the province’s largest French-speaking Acadian community; it is a combination cooking school, farm, inn, and restaurant, initially scouted in 1997. Some historical and cultural details are given. The cuisine here is based on local seafood, vegetables, cheese, and wild foods, derived from Creole and Acadian traditions. The book has no pork, beef, or chicken, although chicken stock is used. Typical contents include how to forage for wild mushrooms, how to smoke fish (extensive notes here), how to use a brick oven fired by wood. In the recipes, the ingredients are sidebarred and screened, but there is a large typeface used. The team gives five suggested menus (with page references) for creole meals and Nova Scotia meals, all using seafood and vegetables. Audience and level of use: visitors to Trout Lodge, meatless cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: wild mushroom pate, saffron seafood gnocchi, caramelized fennel and goat cheese, lime-grilled cattail root, shiitake mushrooms Rockefeller, smoked trout cakes, chilled blueberry soup. What I don’t like about this book: a fair number of pastoral pix scenes. What I do like about this book: menus have page references. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 14. SERVSAFE ALCOHOL™; fundamentals of responsible alcohol service (National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation, 2005; distr. Wiley, various paginations, ISBN 0-471-71135-7, paper covers) is “designed to train all members of an establishment including servers, hosts, valets, bouncers, coat checkers, etc.” It is U.S. based, and thus adheres to U.S. legislation. But apart from that, much of the book is relevant to Canadian servers. The contents cover U.S. alcohol regulations for servers and sellers, roles of liquor authority, laws restricting alcohol service, recognizing and presenting intoxication, how to assess drunkenness, checking ID, dealing with fake ID, handling difficult situations, and documenting incidents. Each chapter has a section “how this relates to me” with blank spaces to fill in. It is entirely dependent on what state/province and local community one works in. Judging by the number of pages and index entries, the top concerns are ID and intoxication. This may not be a problem with fine dining. The title is setup as a workbook with exercise for self-teaching. Audience and level of use: hospitality industry and schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: only the liver can break down alcohol. What I don’t like about this book: need some Canadian data, which would only be a couple of pages. What I do like about this book: book could not be simpler. Even an underage person should be able to understand it. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 15. FOR THE LOVE OF… GARLIC; the complete guide to garlic cuisine (Square One, 2005; distr. by U of T Press, 195 pages, ISBN 0-7570-0087- 8, $13.95US paper covers) is by Victoria Renoux, a multiple cookbook author specializing in natural foods. This book is one of a series (such as the olive book) in a standard format. Part one looks at history, lore, health – even how to grow your own. Part two is the recipe section: 60 preps for all types of savoury dishes. She has a good section on garlic varieties and what to look for (garlic tasting party anyone?). U.S. volume measurements are complemented by metric conversion charts. There’s a list of garlic farms, garlic information websites, and garlic festivals. Audience and level of use: garlic lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: vegetable pot-au-feu, polenta stuffed Portobello mushrooms, Provencal soup, garlicky guacamole, Tunisian eggplant salad, black bean stuffed yellow peppers. What I don’t like about this book: there are no illustrations of the various garlic families (hardneck, softneck), and the index has no entries for food ingredients. What I do like about this book: there are details on how to braid garlic, how to peel garlic. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 16. THE GARDEN-FRESH VEGETABLE COOKBOOK (Storey Publishing, 2005; distr. Thomas Allen, 501 pages, ISBN 1-58017-534-1, $34.95 hard covers) is by Andrea Chesman, a James Beard Award nominee specializing in vegetable cookbooks. There are 175 recipes here, which follow the growing season and harvest. The hook here is what to do with a bountiful crop. These recipes are good for mass processing of bushels of veggies, to help you eat locally and seasonally. Thirty-four veggies in all, arranged by season. Thus, in spring, we have asparagus spears, summer has broccoli, beets, snap beans, Swiss chard, corn, eggplant. Lots of advice and FYIs strewn over the book, especially on how to handle surpluses. She gives us 14 master recipes for whatever is in the basket, using basic preps as blanching, steaming, grilling, roasting, stir-frying, and braising. Audience and level of use: cooks who garden, hospitality schools Some interesting or unusual recipes: mixed roasted summer vegetables, mixed grilled summer vegetables, sautéed vegetable medley with fresh herbs, eggplant lasagna, and Japanese pickles. What I don’t like about this book: U.S. volume measurements have no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: extensive index with cross-references. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 17. KILLER COCKTAILS; an intoxicating guide to sophisticated drinking (HarperResource, 2005, 128 pages, ISBN 0-06-074072-8, $24.95 spiral bound) is by David Wondrich, a free-lance writer and editor in the area of spirits. His first book was “Esquire Drinks”. This current book is in a hands-free format, with the spiral pages mounted on a free- standing board. This easel format leaves your hands free to follow the step-by-step instructions. This is a great angle (pun intended) for the book. Here are the classics and some contemporaries, but no flaming drinks. It covers the usual basics of mixology, bar gear, cocktail ingredients. There are 10 master recipes for martini, gin fizz, daiquiri, plus variations for mint julep, negroni, sidecar, tom and jerry, stinger, etc. Eighty drinks in all. Several pages are devoted to how to physically handle drinks and mixes (stirred, shaken, bruising, straining, cracked ice). There is a drinks index and an ingredients index, as well as a metric conversion chart. Audience and level of use: novitiates. Some interesting or unusual facts: most drinks do not need garnishes beyond a twist. What I don’t like about this book: there is a full page reproduction of drinks, and this is wasted space. What I do like about this book: easel format Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 18. THE PERFECT BUZZ; the essential guide to boozing, bars, and bad behaviour (HarperResource, 2005, 143 pages, ISBN 0-06-077970-5, $19.95 hard covers) is by an editorial team assembled by Quid Publishing in the UK. The book is about one-upmanship, but in a subtle way. There are sections on how to improve your dating technique with dozens of pickup lines. There are rules for pool, darts, Foosball, poker and dominoes. “In the UK, dominoes is still traditionally played in pubs by very old men with hairy ears, sporting flat caps, and all are called Stanley” Yep, that’ll be it…There are 28 bar tricks (levitating olive, rising beer bottle) and 15 drinking games (shotpool, beer pong). Plus the inevitable basic description of all types of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and wines (in that order), naming some of the more important brands and furnishing some pronunciation guidance. A glossary and a series of synonyms to describe a drunk complete the package of this UK-based tool. Audience and level of use: pub crawlers, game players, hospitality schools, bars. Some interesting or unusual facts: all beer brewed and drunk around the world was ale until the 1830s when the Germans isolated a strain of yeast that produced a lighter, more carbonated beer with a drier flavour (i.e., lager) What I don’t like about this book: some minor typos intrude. What I do like about this book: how to order a beer in 25 languages (includes pronunciation). Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 19 FAMILIES OF THE VINE; seasons among the winemakers of Southwest France (HarperCollins, 2005, 265 pages, ISBN 0-06-055964-0, $34.95 hard covers) is by Michael S. Sanders, author of the marvelous “From Here, You Can’t See Paris” (which dealt with a restaurant in Southwest France). This current book is based on two years spent among French winemakers and malbec vineyards in the Cahors region; it covers from vine to wine. A lot of the owners are English, Dutch and Danish. He also covers social history, terroir, viticultural and vinicultural processes. It is chronologically arranged by the season, mostly for the 2003 year – the long hot summer of dense fruity wines. This includes the harvest. But, then, he had to go elsewhere, and so his actual winemaking notes are from the 2002 vintage. He talked to French coopers and French sommeliers as well as winemakers. Specific chapters deal with the Jouffreau family at Clos de Gamos, Bernede at Clos la Coutale, Baldes at Clos Triguedina. The tasting notes are by the producers or sommeliers themselves. Audience and level of use: the wine lover-reader, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Cahors has three terroirs: valley lands at 300 – 500 feet, chalk plateau at 1000 feet, and slopes (coteaux). The best wines come from the slopes. What I don’t like about this book: alas, no index. What I do like about this book: tasting menus are given, as well as short notes on where to taste in Cahors (three dozen or so vineyards, with phone numbers) plus tourist stuff on the region (restaurants and accommodations). Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 20. THE RUSTIC TABLE; simple fare from the world’s kitchens (William Morrow, 2005, 358 pages, ISBN 0-06-056717-1, $34.95 hard covers) is by Constance Snow, New Orleans food writer with two columns a week in the Times-Picayune. She has also contributed many food and travel stories to other magazines and newspapers. Her “Gulf Coast Kitchens” won an IACP Cookbook Award in the American category. Cooks used to call this “peasant” food, but that’s politically incorrect these days. The earthy, rustic, rural, thrifty ingredients are cheap (oops, I mean “inexpensive”), easy to find, and quick or easy to prepare. Here are 200 recipes, enough for a full load of starters, sides, desserts, and entrees from 25 countries, all arranged by course. Included are sections on hearty breakfasts and breads plus the inevitable one-pot meals. Classic dishes dominate. With this kind of food, mistakes can be forgiven and buried, and quantities/ingredients need not be precise. U.S. volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: great for the first-time cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes: West African mixed grill, almond cookies with Chinese five-spice powder, potato latkes with chunky applesauce, frittata with spring vegetables, Chinese rice porridge, Asian-style noodle salad with sesame dressing. What I don’t like about this book: there is no metric conversion table. What I do like about this book: big typeface, with some of it in bold, and it is all readable. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 21. THE SOPHISTICATED OLIVE; the complete guide to olive cuisine (Square One, 2004; distr. by U of T Press, 193 pages, ISBN 0-7570-0024- X, $13.95US paper covers) is by Marie Nadine Antol, a Los Angeles-based food writer. This book is one of a series (such as the garlic book above) in a standard format. Part one looks at history, lore, health – even how to grow and nurture your own olive grove. There are a dozen recipes for health aspects, such as reducing sinus congestion (it works). Part two is the recipe section: 80 preps for all types of savoury dishes plus dessert. She has a section on home curing, and gives some preps for beverages, tapenades, infused oils, as well as soups-entrees-sides. She also has information on how to conduct an olive oil tasting. U.S. volume measurements are complemented by metric conversion charts. There is also a resource list, all U.S. Audience and level of use: olive fanatics, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Arabian olive-onion-orange salad, spicy marinated olives, olive oil refrigerator pickles, provencal caviar (old-style French tapenade, antipasto sandwich, olive butter. What I don’t like about this book: historical black and white (or olive and white) pictures are small and murky. No ingredients are indexed, only the title or course of the recipe. What I do like about this book: good typeface and layout Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 22. MOLTO ITALIANO; 327 simple Italian recipes to cook at home (Ecco, 2005; distr. HarperCollins, 522 pages, ISBN 0-06-073492-2, $44.95 hard covers) is by prolific celebrity chef Mario Batali, who also plays a chef on TV. He is now one of three Iron Chefs in the U.S.A. appearing on the Food Network. This book (his fourth), value driven with 327 recipes, accompanies his new series on TV. Some of the recipes are from his eight years of the “Molto Mario” TV show. All the recipes concentrate on simplifying and shortening prep times. He emphasizes pre-production and countdown schedules for holiday meals. All courses are presented, from most regions of Italy, plus sides and desserts. There are many basic recipes and classic recipes in this all-purpose book: 67 antipasti, 50 pasta dishes, 34 veggie recipes, plus informative and engaging sidebars. Each recipe is headed with a provenance of the sorts, and most are accompanied by first-rate photography. U.S. volume measurements are used, but with no table of metric equivalents. He has a glossary and a pantry list, along with an equipment list. The resource list is all USA. Audience and level of use: basic book, celebrity chef collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Sardinian ravioli cookies (sebadas), pici with lamb sauce, pappardelle with boar ragu, herb sandwich from Parma, polenta with capocollo and ramps, radicchio pancakes. What I don’t like about this book: while wine is used in quite a few dishes (most times unspecified as to varietal) and while there are six pages of wine notes, there are no recommendations with each recipe. There are some general recommendations within the free-standing wine notes. But these are not indexed. Also, Batali owns part of a wine importing concern, so it is to his advantage to cite wines. What I do like about this book: indexes are in both Italian and English names and ingredients. Quality/Price Ratio: yet another Italian book? 85. 23 CHILEAN WINE; the heritage – a journey from the origins of the vine to the present (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2005, 206 pages, ISBN 1- 891267-77-4, $ hard covers) is by Rodrigo Alvarado, a Chilean enologist, wine writer and wine historian. It was originally published in Spanish in Chile in 2004. Actually, it is a history of the vine around the world, clearly showing the heritage of wines in Chile (the subtitle is, after all, “heritage”), not Chilean wines per se. We don’t really get to Chile and its history until p.115. The translation/proofreading may leave something to be desired: on page 142 we read about “vitivinicultural cannons”. An explosive issue, I’d imagine. He presents tables with DOC areas and regions, statistics (but no export figures), along with a bibliography and a basic index. Audience and level of use: readers interested in Chilean wine history. Some interesting or unusual facts: The railroad was decisive for the development of the Chilean wine industry. What I don’t like about this book: I’m not sure why we needed over half the book to retell the history of non-Chilean wines of the world. What I do like about this book: charts of production figures, grape varieties, and timeline charts. Quality/Price Ratio: 76, 24. RETRO FIESTA; a gringo’s guide to Mexican party planning (Collectors Press, 2005; distr. Ten Speed Press, 127 pages, ISBN 1- 933112-01-8, $24.95 hard covers) is by Geraldine Duncann, a California food writer. This is one of a series (Retro Breakfasts, Retro Pies, Retro Barbecue) dealing with foods from the fifties. Duncann here presents an American version of Mexican food: chips and salsa are the new fries and ketchup. There are 100 recipes and many menu suggestions. Party ideas (e.g., how to make a piñata) and decorations have their separate sections, as do serving ideas and table settings. There are over 20 days each year to celebrate Mexican events, including of course the Cinco de Mayo. Salsas and margaritas are presented. The book is like roaming through Sunset magazine of the past. All the illustrations come from the 1950s. Audience and level of use: party lovers, food culturalists. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Do It Yourself burrito buffet, nachos, guacamole, queso fresca dips, bean dip, chorizo and bean filling, masa balls, tortilla ball soup. What I don’t like about this book: there are no music recommendations, beyond a few words on Latin dances in general. The index is only by course. No table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: well-worth the money, great reproductions. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 25. AGAINST THE GRAIN; 150 good carb Mediterranean recipes (William Morrow, 2005, 274 pages, ISBN 0-06-072579-2, $32.95 hard covers) is by Diane Kochilas, multiple cookbook author on Greek themes (and an IACP Cookbook winner). These are robust meals, with carbohydrate counts per serving. The bad news is that the Atkins diet and similar fads seem to be in decline. Good carbs, the complex carbs of whole grains, are stressed. The book contains no pasta and no couscous preps, but some recipes call for bulgur, brown rice or wild rice, and barley. For this kind of cooking, a pantry is essential: canned fish (tuna, anchovies), capers, charcuterie, cured fish (smoked, pickled), dairy, fruit, nuts and seeds, herbs and spices, and olive oil. Meze, egg dishes, and vegetable courses are also covered, but no desserts. Once again, there are U.S. measurements but no metric tables. Check her website for more details: www.cuisineinternational.com Audience and level of use: dieters Some interesting or unusual recipes: cod fillets with orange and cracked green olive salsa, tomatoes stuffed with pureed cauliflower and feta, spinach salad with ricotta salmon-olives-pine nuts-tomatoes, Israeli coffee chicken, Greek lamb with spinach, Iman Bayaldi. What I don’t like about this book: it has the appearance of reformatted Mediterranean food. Med food is good for you anyway, but I guess it gets even better when you drop the simple carbohydrates. What I do like about this book: most of the recipes come from the Eastern end of the Mediterranean. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 26. THE ONE-POT GOURMET 125 simply delicious dinners (Lark Books, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-57990-647-8, $21.95 paper covers) is by Pat Dailey; it was originally published in 1996 as “One Pot Sunday Suppers”. These 125 recipes are mainly for casserole- type dishes. She also has vegetarian standards as well. Prep times, cooking times, substitutions, and quantities served are all clearly up front and noticeable. There are the usual hearty soups, gumbos, chilies, meats-seafood-poultry, plus ideas for “dinner in a hurry”. But no slow cookers are here. She has a variety of FYI sidebars. There are comprehensive metric conversion charts for various weights, volumes, heat, length. Audience and level of use: home cooks Some interesting or unusual recipes: risotto with asparagus-mushrooms- smoked trout, seafood and sausage gumbo, Lebanese chicken with bulgur salad, Asian oxtails, Mediterranean beef stew with olives and prunes, ratatouille boats with goat cheese-olives-capers. What I don’t like about this book: the soup section stretches it a bit. Any hearty soup can be a one-pot wonder. What I do like about this book: three great indexes to recipes, ingredients, and techniques. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 27. THE ACCIDENTAL VEGETARIAN; delicious and eclectic food without meat (Cassell Illustrated, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84403-276-0, $25.95 paper covers) is by TV chef and vegetarian restaurant owner (Greens) Simon Rimmer. It was originally published last year in the UK. The 140 recipes run from dips to desserts, with an emphasis on world cuisine. This is pretty basic stuff, like gruyere- filled beefsteak tomatoes and many pasta/rice/potato entrees for the hearty “male” eater. One recipe calls for “vegetable suet”, which is mainly coconut palm oil in solid form, and hence shreddable. But you’ll have to go to England to find a can, or check out a British import store. He also uses the word “polenta” for corn meal. To us, Italians or North Americans, polenta is “cooked corn meal”. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there are no metric conversion tables. Audience and level of use: those thinking about vegetarianism. Some interesting or unusual recipes: spicy beetroot and coconut soup, blinis with sour cream and roasted bell peppers, sweet potato and pineapple sandwich, asparagus-potato-fennel salad, red Thai bean curry, gnocchi with wild mushroom and rosemary ragu. What I don’t like about this book: tiny print size for the index. Also, it is incomplete. For example, “steamed sweet pudding” is not indexed under steamed, sweet, nor pudding. What I do like about this book: nice photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 78. 28. LEBANESE FOOD (New Holland, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 1-84537-187-9, $35.95 paper covers) is by Cassie Maroun- Paladin, and it was originally published in the UK in 2001. These are the author’s family recipes, passed down from her grandmother. Lebanon represents the crossroads of Middle Eastern, African, and Mediterranean foods. Its contents cover pickles, breads, yogurts, rice, fish, eggs, meats, veggies, sweets and beverages. Lots of sweets and beverages. She also has seven recipes for kibbi, the national dish of Lebanon (ground raw lamb eaten either raw or cooked). Both metric and Imperial measurements are given, side by side. She also has material on menu planning, as well as a glossary. Audience and level of use: good intermediate level. Some interesting or unusual recipes: green bean stew with lamb, mountain bread (you’ll need to be energetic), baked fish in sesame sauce, rhubarb sherbet, semolina sweets, eggplant with chickpeas. What I don’t like about this book: index is only by course, not by ingredient. There is no index to indigenous names of recipes. What I do like about this book: lots of close-up photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 81. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS -- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JULY 2005 ============================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * (actually, whiskey this time) ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. WHISKEY; the definitive world guide (DK, 2005, 288 pages, ISBN 0- 7894-9710-7, $50 hard covers) is by (who else?) Michael Jackson, with contributions from nine other named gentlemen. For example, Stuart Ramsay writes about Canada (Glenora, Canada Club, Kittling Ridge). This is another “tell all” book, international in scope. It is comprehensive and somewhat authoritative, with 67 pages on single-malts, three for Irish, 12 on Canada, 24 on the USA, five for Japan, 13 for the rest of Europe, and six for Australasia. The authors clearly show the impact of climate, water, heather, sea breeze, barley, peat, malting techniques, distillation processes, type of wood used for storage, maturation periods. General sections cover aromas and flavours, peats and bogs, regions, terroirs – with lots of illustrations and diagrams. There are short sections on whiskey cocktails (with recipes), food and whiskey pairing, and cooking with whiskey (with recipes). But this is principally a directory to some of the finest distilled grain-based spirits in the world. After the first 85 pages of general materials, the country-by-country arrangement begins with Scotland, of course. The guide to the major producers of single-malt scotch, small batch bourbons, and pure pot Irish includes contact details and label reproductions. There is also a concluding bibliography of books, magazines, and websites. Audience and level of use: wine schools, whiskey lovers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Islay’s constant wind carries a mist of sweet, salt-laden air, the whiff of the sea, the coconut aroma of a hot gorse, a hint of peat smoke and bog myrtle, and the smell of a just-spent fire on the beach. All the notes you pick up in its malts are there, floating in the Atlantic wind”. What I don’t like about this book: it is hard to fault, but maybe a pronunciation guide could have been useful. More maps would also have engaged me. What I do like about this book: good thick paper. There are tasting notes and good descriptions of vatted malts plus the top 15 sellers of Scottish blends. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * (actually, a collectible) 2. MILLER’S KITCHENWARE BUYER’S GUIDE (Miller’s, 2005, distr. McArthur, 320 pages, ISBN 1-84533-071-4, $39.95 hard covers) is the latest in the series of guides published by Mitchell Beazley. This first edition has some material previously published in “Miller’s Collecting Kitchenware” and “Miller’s Antiques Price Guide”. All of the Miller guides are full- coloured texts dedicated to popular collecting subjects in the UK. This kitchen guide has twelve named contributors to assemble the two main parts. The first part is “What to Look For” in care and display, with a short history of the kitchenware involved and notes on US and UK manufacturers. For each type of product, there are also suggestions for further readings. The “What to Pay” section has the bulk of the illustrations, with prices given in sterling, Euros, and U.S. dollars, based on prices obtained at auction. The major topics for kitchenware are storage, dairy, baking, moulds, cookware, utensils, tableware, scullery, and books (four pages for the latter). So we can see a variety of jelly moulds, biscuit barrels, chopping boards, and book covers. There are colour tabs for cross-referencing back and forth between the two sections. The descriptions, prices and marketing information for each item is extremely useful, especially as the prices charged for the item are based on location, condition and provenance. One direct impact of the Internet has been the exposure of the collectible to a wider audience. This always increases the price, sometimes by more than double…The basic use: if you are looking for a particular item, check the contents list; if you are looking for a particular factory or maker, check the index. The publisher claims 2500 colour photos, and I believe it. Other valuable reference material here: a glossary, a directory of specialist stores in the UK plus 7 in the U.S.A., a directory of clubs, museums and website, and markets to sell (with 9 in the U.S.A.), a general bibliography, and, of course, an index. No Canadian content, but many items were exported from the UK to Canada over the past 200 years, and they turn up from time to time in various auctions and flea markets in Canada. Audience and level of use: the food collector, food historians. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Much of the appeal for kitchenware is that the items can have a variety of uses. For example, bread boards are very decorative and can be used as place mats of even for cutting bread on – these are particularly popular in the U.S. and Japan. Milk churns are also very popular for the garden today.” What I don’t like about this book: I’m not sure why the two major sections are separated from each other; I’m sure that there is a reason but the publisher doesn’t say so in the book itself. What I do like about this book: bargain price for the photos, and the glossary of terms. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 3. THE WINE LOVER’S GUIDE TO THE WINE COUNTRY; the best of Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 320 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4242-8, $26.95 paper covers) is by Lori Lyn Narlock and Nancy Garfinkel. Narlock has also written “The Food Lover’s Companion to the Napa Valley”, while Garfinkel co-wrote a season of the US Food Network’s “The Melting Pot”. The work is a collection of the wine resources from Northern California: tours, tasting bars, wine shops, meals, purchases, picnic stops, museums, inns, libraries, wine schools, accommodation, et al. They try to answer the question: “If you only had one day in the wine country, where would you want to spend it?” Wine culture of the region is explored, as well as a wine tasting primer. It is arranged by county, and then by appellation and winery (the best, followed by the others). Each winery has the usual contact data, website, history, tours and hours, plus what to see and do nearby. Mendocino gets 10 pages, and is described as a rustic place, off the beaten path. But it does have Fetzer and Roederer Estate. Audience and level of use: travelers and tourists. Some interesting or unusual facts: “What we’ve deliberately omitted is much of the rich history and many of the unique stories that characterize the places we write about.” You’ll have to do this on your own once you are down there. What I don’t like about this book: the index is to names (mainly). There are no tasting notes, and only simple black and white photos. What I do like about this book: Mendocino is covered, and there is a chart of driving distances (e.g., it is three hours from San Francisco to redwood Valley in Mendocino). Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 4. SENSATIONAL SALADS (Stewart, Chang & Tabori, 2005; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 1-58479-418-6, $31.50 hard covers) is by Barbara Scott-Goodman, a New York-based food writer and art director. These 80 preps emphasize low-calorie, high-flavour complex carbohydrates, mainly by including fish, fowl, and farm animals. Salads are divided into appetizers, side dishes, and main entrees. There are the usual vinaigrette and dressing preps, plus other variations. She has a section on how to select and use the wide variety of greens found in today’s market. The overall arrangement of the book is by principal ingredient. Audience and level of use: home cooks, buffet specialists. Some interesting or unusual recipes: mixed greens with roasted fennel and pears and parmesan cheese, roasted cauliflower salad, caponata salad, spicy soba noodle salad, roasted fig and greens and stilton, black bean and roasted sweet potato salad. What I don’t like about this book: only U.S. volume measurements, with no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: she details menu planning, and the index has see also references which are always useful. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 5. THE WELL-DRESSED SALAD; contemporary, delicious and satisfying recipes for salads (Whitecap, 2004, 160 pages, ISBN 1-55285-673-9, $29.95 paper covers) is by UK food writer, food teacher and food broadcaster Jennifer Joyce. It was originally published in 2004 in the UK. These 80 recipes are the classics and beyond, with an emphasis on fusion dishes, covering the Mediterranean-Asian-Latin American spheres. Chapters are organized by major ingredient: legumes, grains, tomatoes, leaves, veggies, pasta/rice, meats, and fruit. There are notes on how to organize oneself. She also has two dozen recipes for dressings. Ingredients are expressed in both metric and imperial measurements. Audience and level of use: intermediate level, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: arugula salad with crostini, roasted red peppers with honey and pine nuts, tabbouleh with preserved lemon, puntarelle salad with anchovy dressing, figs-mozzarella-basil- prosciutto and balsamic. What I don’t like about this book: it needs fewer illustrations and more recipes, say topped off at 100. What I do like about this book: there are plenty of variations. There is also a good section on flavours of the world, oils and vinegars. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 6. AN INVITATION TO ITALIAN COOKING (Headline, 2005; distr. McArthur, 224 pages, ISBN 0-7472-7591-2, $29.95 paper covers) is by Antonio Carluccio, an old-style Italian food writer. It was originally published in hard covers in the UK 2002, and this is the paperback reprint now available in Canada. There are about 150 recipes, scattered over all the regions. And 7. PASSIONE; the Italian cookbook (Headline, 2005; distr. McArthur, 256 pages, ISBN 0-7553-1119-1, $29.95 paper covers) is by Gennaro Contaldo, head chef at London’s Passione restaurant. It was originally published in hard covers in the UK 2003, and this is the paperback reprint now available in Canada. He has almost 200 recipes and many more photos than Carluccio has. Some of the recipes are also more contemporary and/or exciting. Both books use metric measurements in addition to a few Imperial equivalents spelled out in the recipe. Audience and level of use: beginner to intermediate. Some interesting or unusual recipes: (Carluccio: marinated eel, agnolotti with butter and sage, little fried calzone, raspberry tart; Contaldo: baked pasta shells with cheese, timbale of mushrooms, leek and omelette rolls in a Parmesan crust, lemon tart.) What I don’t like about this book: both books are pretty basic but each will find its audience. What I do like about this book: both books have the ingredients scaled. Quality/Price Ratio: 81. 8. VINEYARD HARVEST; a year of good food on Martha’s Vineyard (Broadway Books, 2005, 258 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1833-9, $47 hard covers) is by Tina Miller, an owner-chef-caterer in the Vineyard, and Christie Matheson, a food writer. Here are 100 recipes using mainly fresh local produce and seafood, organically derived whenever possible. But not always: she also uses bananas, key limes, avocado, and shrimp. So it is not an entirely self-contained book about the region’s food. Nevertheless, it is arranged by season, with local recipes and family preps. She comments on local farms, the people, and the markets. Miller opens with a section on pantry/larder and equipment, and concludes with 12 menus (three per season, three course each, with page references to the recipes). U.S. volume measurements are employed, with, unfortunately, no metric tables of equivalents. The list of resources is all from Massachusetts. Audience and level of use: cookbook collectors, arm chair travelers, chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes: corn-crusted calamari, arugula salad, shiitake stuffed salmon, broccoli soup with morels, lam shanks with carrots and onion wedges. What I don’t like about this book: there are a not of non-food photos. There are no wine recommendations, and indeed only two recipes include red wine in their ingredient lists. What I do like about this book: extensive, nicely laid-out index. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 9. THE BEST OF GOURMET (Random House, 2005, 304 pages, ISBN 1-4000- 6364-7, ISSN 1046-1760, $55 hard covers) is by the editors of Gourmet Magazine. The book was first issued annually 20 years ago, and the magazine is using the occasion to freshen it up with a new topic: celebrations. 325 previously published preps make it into this year’s edition, re-arranged by occasion. The first section presents nine menus for special occasions (birthdays, anniversaries, reunions), along with the relevant recipes. The next section is the “Menu Collection” for other entertaining ideas (brunches, weekend entertaining). The third section is a compendium of recipes grouped by type (soups, meats, desserts). As in the magazine, there are photos of table settings. All the recipes use US volume measurements. Because of the variety of recipes included, one can safely not bother to subscribe to Gourmet Magazine anymore, and just await the annual. Hey, no more ads! Audience and level of use: intermediate level, cookbook collectors, Gourmet subscribers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: lamb and orzo stuffed bell peppers, lobster-avocado-grapefruit salad, cardamom butter squares, caraway and prune ice cream, vegetable couscous with beets and goat cheese. What I don’t like about this book: no metric equivalent tables, sources/equipment lists are all US. What I do like about this book: the extensive index includes bold heads for ingredients and an indication of whether the recipe is a quick prep and/or a lighter or leaner dish. And there are wine recommendations. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 10. GREETINGS FROM THE FINGER LAKES; a food and wine lover’s companion (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 200 pages, ISBN 1-58008-607-1, $24.95 paper covers) is by Michael Turback, an Ithacan restaurant owner on the scene of the wine trails in upstate New York. The wine routes, arranged by lake, are broadly defined, and of course include wineries, dairies, organic farms, orchards, restaurants, markets, breweries, cideries, pick your owns – even CSA farms. Professional wine tours are noted. Overall, according to my count, there are 35 restaurants, 49 wineries, and 38 farms and food producers. The package is completed with 22 local recipes. Scattered throughout are interviews and black and white photos. Each winery gets a short profile (and contact data) plus a description of what’s within the surrounding area, such as museums, spas, hot air balloons. At the end, there is a short list of accommodations drawn from the separate chapters with contact data and websites (no prices, meagre description). Audience and level of use: tourists, wine aficionados Some interesting or unusual facts: the grape variety vignoles predominates in the production of stickies. The Finger Lakes is New York’s second largest tourist destination after New York City, and the largest wine region in the U.S. outside of California (85 million bottles). What I don’t like about this book: there are only a few but rough sketch maps, and there are no real tasting notes. What I do like about this book: very useful for Ontario tourists who take the ferry to Rochester. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 11. COOKING FOR CROWDS FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing Inc., 2005, 330 pages, ISBN 0-7645-8469-3, $25.99 paper covers) is by Dawn Simmons, a caterer and cooking teaching, and Curt Simmons, a focusing writer. The main concentration here is on a series of recipes and advice for a stress-free kitchen. This is catering for home cooks: family reunions, graduations, weddings. They have a step-by-step guide to setting up the kitchen, planning the menu, estimating food quantities (there are tables for appetizers, drinks, mains, desserts, etc.: spreadsheet software could be useful here), food safety requirements, scheduling food prep routines. All the recipes indicate prep times, cooking times, and yields, along with nutritional data. In the appendices, there is a metric conversion guide, websites for recipes (illustrated with screen shots), and a nifty section on how to make and use garnishes. Audience and level of use: home cooks, caterers too. Some interesting or unusual recipes: BBQ brisket, lasagna soup, peanut butter brownies, summer broccoli salad, seafood chowder. What I don’t like about this book: no spreadsheet software is indicated for calculating changes to recipes. What I do like about this book: the cooking tricks, such as stifling the smell of onions, cleaning up a too greasy soup or too salty dish. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 12. THE MOOSEWOOD RESTAURANT KITCHEN GARDEN; creative gardening for the adventurous cook (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 294 pages, ISBN 1-58008-666-7, $26.95 paper covers) is by David Hirsch, a member of the Moosewood Collective since 1976. The book first appeared in 1992 (published by Simon and Schuster), and this is a revision. 75 vegetables, herbs and edible flowers are covered in three chapters, each section having its own alphabetical arrangement. Hirsch gives details on how to grow and harvest them all, along with cooking tips and anecdotes. The recipe chapter has 70 preps, but this is mainly a gardening book. U.S. volume measurements are used in the recipes, but there is no table of metric equivalents. The resource list includes U.S. mail order and websites, except for Richter’s in Canada. Lee Valley is also listed, but the U.S. site is quoted. The book concludes with a useful bibliography of gardening books and cook books. Audience and level of use: gardeners, chefs with gardens. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Portuguese kale soup, corn salsa, vegetable lasagna, tarragon pesto, summer garden fajitas. What I don’t like about this book: there are different typefaces in the “Resources” chapter, and this looks very jarring, almost as if they were recommendations. What I do like about this book: the growing patterns are for the Northeast US, which fits in with Southern Ontario. There is also a good discussion on biodynamics. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 13. TRADER VIC’S TIKI PARTY; cocktails & food to share with friends (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 184 pages, ISBN 1-58008-556-3, $26.95 hard covers) is by Steve Siegelman, a focusing food writer for many authors and a TV script writer for some food personalities. The 100 cocktails and after dinner drinks, and the 35 food recipes for pupus, tidbits, finger food, dipping sauces and batters, were furnished by the company which has 21 locations around the world. This is definitely retro food, for tiki party times. The food is basically pan-Asian small plates and nibbles, but there are some entrees and some desserts. Siegelman wrote the surround material on decorating and entertaining ideas, plus music choices. Some possible motivation for the book: there is a new 235 seat flagship in San Francisco which opened in October 2004 – and there are the possibilities of book sales in all of the restaurants. The opening chapter has the basics of bartending and equipment. Most drinks are rum-based, including the original Mai Tai, created in 1944 by founder Vic Bergeron. At the end, there is a resources list (websites) on where to get all that tiki farm stuff needed for a party. But the major problem with the book is not obtaining all the theme materials, but deciding what to do with it afterwards. How many tiki farm parties do you need to amortize their cost? Audience and level of use: theme-based caterers, restaurants, home party givers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: jalapeno cheese balls, cha sin pork, BBQ spareribs, tuna cakes, spiced chicken wings, mimosa prawns. What I don’t like about this book: there are US volume measurements only, with no metric conversion charts. Also, there is some product placement of Trade Vic Rum lines. What I do like about this book: there is a good discussion about ice and garnishes, and a short illustrated history of Trader Vic and his empire. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 14. AUTHENTIC RECIPES FROM THE PHILIPPINES (Periplus, 2005; distr. by Raincoast, 112 pages, ISBN 0-7946-0238-X, $16.95 hard covers) has recipes by Reynaldo Alejandro. Three other writers and a photographer contribute text and visuals. This is pretty basic stuff, redeemed by the low-price (the book has oversized pages); it is also one of series covering China, Thailand, Japan, and India. 81 recipes here show the influence of spicy Mexican and Spanish cooking, with the sometime addition of coconut milk. Of course, the national dishes are here: adobo sauce, lechon (liver) sauce, and sinangag (fried rice). All preps, covering all regions and generally two to a page with illustrations, include preparation times and cooking times. Measurements in the book are by volumes, but there are conversion charts, as well as a list of international mail order and online sources. Audience and level of use: ethnic and regional cuisines, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes: eggplant sauce, Filipino style beef steak, oxtail and vegetable stew, stewed pork knuckle, yam pudding with coconut cream topping. What I don’t like about this book: the index has only one entry per recipe. You get “Philippine Fried Rice” and nothing under “rice” nor “fried”, and no cross-reference to or from sinangag. What I do like about this book: affordable basics, good pictures. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 15. PETER GORDON’S WORLD KITCHEN (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 224 pages, ISBN 1-58008-679-9, $50 hard covers) is by a London restaurant chef- owner who has also worked in Australia and New Zealand. The fairly eclectic 200 recipes here work well for the jaded cook. They were originally published as part of his column over the previous six years in “New Zealand House and Garden” magazine, although a few come from his current restaurant. This is global fusion at its best, arranged by course and endorsed by Charlie Trotter on the back cover. But the book could use some wine recommendations for the dishes. U.S. volume measurements are used, but there are no tables of metric equivalents. He concludes with a glossary of ingredients and a useful index. Audience and level of use: chef collectors Some interesting or unusual recipes: poached egg on crumbled feta and butternut squash dice, pumpkin and spinach tortilla, spicy roasted apricots, Thai beef salad with lime dressing, spiced fennel-lemon- sesame cookies. What I don’t like about this book: I’m not a fan of the use of reverse colours (white text on pastel) which is used for almost half the recipes. Also, no wine recommendations. What I do like about this book: good ideas, good layout, straight forward approach, excellent photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 16. DISCOVERING WINE COUNTRY: SOUTH OF FRANCE (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84533-037-4, $29.95 paper covers) is one of a travel series, with the emphasis on little known wines in well known regions. It purports to give us the inside information, “how to find great wines off the beaten track”. This one is by Jonathan Healey, a wine writer who lives in Roussillon. The range is from the Pyrenees to the Alps, passing through Provence, Languedoc (North and South), and Roussillon – as the book is arranged. All of the diverse wine-making styles are covered. Healey takes us through the history, geography and culture, progressing through the wine routes (bicycle, canals), the local wine bureaus, price information, festivals, meals and accommodation. He has sidebars galore, covering a range of topics and anecdotes such as biodynamic viticulture. There is a section on the top producers, e.g., Chateau de Bellet in Nice. And the index covers grape varieties and proper names. Audience and level of use: wine travelers Some interesting or unusual facts: “Today there are around 200 Australians producing wine in the region…they look around the world for new markets.” What I don’t like about this book: it seems a little brief, but all of the basics are covered. What I do like about this book: a great idea for traveling. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 17. CHOCOLATE; the sweet history (Collectors Press, distr. by Ten Speed Press, 176 pages, ISBN 1-933112-04-2, $55.95 hard covers) is by Beth Kimmerle, curator of the American Museum of Candy History in NYC. Her sweet tooth also showed in her earlier book, “Candy; the sweet history”; she also regularly appears as a candy expert on television. This book too is U.S. based, and is setup and styled much like her previous book on candy, with lavish vintage illustrations. After a general history, she gives a chocolate timeline with highlights of events in the chocolate industry. She has individual historical profiles of chocolate companies and chocolatiers, with names we’d recognize in Canada: Fannie Farmer, Lowney’s, Baker’s, Callebaut, Cadbury, Fry, Ghirardelli, Hershey, Mars, Nestle, Suchard, and World’s Finest. Each company’s pages have photos of vintage packaging, factories, candy graphics, and logos. She has a chapter on working with chocolate in the food preparation area. There is a small recipe section, with 17 preps for classic confections, cookies, cakes, and beverages. U.S. volume measurements are used in these recipes. The package is completed with a bibliography, a U.S. resources list, and an index to mainly proper names. Audience and level of use: food historians with a sweet tooth. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chocolate buttermilk olive oil cake, Fannie Farmer’s chocolate meringue cookies, dark chocolate crème brulee. What I don’t like about this book: recipes are not indexed, but then, there are so few of them. What I do like about this book: interesting illustrations Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 18. THE STRESS-FREE TRAVELER; simple exercises and stretches to keep your cool on planes, trains and automobiles (McGraw-Hill, 2005, 118 pages, ISBN 0-07-145605-8, $16.95 paper covers) is by Sandy Paton, a freelance writer and yoga instructor. This portable paperback is also useful for daily commuters behind a wheel or on a train/bus (or even in a car pool). Her exercises, based on kundalini yoga, are designed to accommodate the limited range of movement one has when traveling. She even has some remedies for motion sickness. The book is comprised of a variety: breathing exercises, unloading your mind, shoulder shrugs and rotations, head rolls and turns, spinal flexes, eyes rests, self- massages, body pumps, and local movement. Along the way, she delves into soothing headaches, resting your eyes, recharging your batteries, loosen tightness, and eliminate travel rage. The latter is hard to do if you don’t recognize it for what it is…This is a great book if you are constantly on fam tours. Audience and level of use: fam tour participants, business travelers Some interesting or unusual facts: travel exacts a toll. If passengers around you are put off as you go through the exercises, then ask them to join you. Either they will or they’ll move away, giving you even more room to relieve stiff muscles. What I don’t like about this book: no index, and a bit pricey. What I do like about this book: tips on what to pack for a trip (water, loose clothes, spray bottle, salt, and food) Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 19. DISH; memories, recipes and delicious bites (Whitecap, 2005, 304 pages, ISBN 1-55285-646-1, $24.95 hard covers) is by Canadian food writer Marion Kane, food editor of the Toronto Star for 11 years and now its main food columnist. In fact, this is a collection of her favourite columns from the Toronto Star (albeit, all undated). At the end of June, she left her permanent residence in Toronto for Stratford, but she’ll continue to write. Her 76 columns (and 110 recipes here) explore the role that food plays in our lives. The diverse topics over the years cover BBQ, raw food, Quebecois cooking, Barbadian cooking, other food writers (Child, Trillin) and chefs (Bocuse), vegetarian cooking, British cooking, Jewish cooking, hated foods, dieting, food banks, and the movie “Big Night”. The book documents food in Toronto over the past two decades, as well as documenting Kane herself through memoirs. The recipes come from all over (other cooks, other writers, restaurants) but have been kitchen tested and modified for home use. Each prep has both imperial and metric measurements for each ingredient. Audience and level of use: fans, home cooks, students of local food history. Some interesting or unusual recipes: potatoes Chanteduc, cheese shortbreads, roasted herb chicken, ricotta lemon parmesan tortellini, lemon surprise pudding. What I don’t like about this book: the columns would have been more useful if they had a publication date attached…Big Night was obviously 1996, and I can figure out some more dates by how old her daughter Ruthie was. What I do like about this book: hey, there’s an index to both her thoughts and the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 20. COOKING MOROCCAN (Whitecap, 2005, 192 pages, ISBN 1-55285-643-7, $29.95 paper covers) and 21. COOKING SPANISH (Whitecap, 2005, 192 pages, ISBN 1-55285-672-0, $29.95 paper covers) are also both published this year by Murdoch Books, a reputable book packager. As such, both books were done by committee, and share similar philosophy, graphic and layout characteristics. The oversized paperbacks concentrate on the basics of both countries, which guard the entrance to the Mediterranean, and are related in that sense plus the Moorish cooking prevalent in both countries. The recipes from Spain come from tapas bars, seaside taverns, country inns and home taverns. The recipes are suitable for all levels of skills and all occasions, featuring popular classics and regional specialties. Think tapas, gazpacho, paella, chicken saffron stew. There is a chapter on ingredients and techniques unique to Spain, augmented by step-by-step photos. For Morocco, with no drinking establishments, the food comes from street stalls, regal dining from the upper crust, and home kitchens. Think lamb tagines, couscous, and bisteeya. Recipes are expressed in both metric and volume measurements, with some weights also being scaled, so read the recipes carefully. Under 100 recipes in each book. Audience and level of use: home use, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: from Morocco, try fish tagine, trout stuffed with dates, watermelon juice with rosewater, steamed lamb with cumin, and tuna brik. From Spain, try sardinas murcianas, caldo gallego, chicken with raisins and pine nuts, churros and hot chocolate. What I don’t like about this book: both try to be all things to all people for Spain and Morocco; they need a closer focus. What I do like about this book: recipe indexes are in both English and local language. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 22. THE SPICY FOOD LOVER’S BIBLE; the ultimate guide to buying, growing, storing and using the key ingredients that give food spice, with more than 250 recipes from around the world (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2005; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 424 pages, ISBN 1-58479- 411-9, $43.95 hard covers) is by Dave DeWitt and Nancy Gerlach, co- authors of “The Whole Chile Pepper Book”. They are also experienced cookbook authors, magazine editors, and food columnists, specializing in spicy and hot foods for over two decades. The first 100 pages here cover the details on history and horticulture of hot spices, how to grow and/or purchase, and how to use. We’re talking about roots, pods, seeds, and blended powders such as chilies, peppers, mustard seeds, garam masala, curry, ginger, habaneros, and wasabi. They have guidelines for putting together meals by combining flavours, colours, and textures. This culminates in some festive menus (with page references) for a Hindu wedding, a South African Christmas, a Chinese New Year, a summer BBQ, a New Orleans Mardi Gras, and Oktoberfest, and others. The recipes cover seasonings, sauces and condiments, running through all courses (including some desserts), and finishing with spicy beverages. The preps range from mildly piquant through to hot, and each recipe is indicated with a scale of hotness. U.S. volume measurements are employed, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Reference material includes an international source list for buying spices, with websites (Vancouver has a listing), an extended bibliography of articles and books and website, and an index which has recipes listed in both the original language and in English. You can find more about the authors’ passions for hot food (plus recipes) at www.fiery- foods.com. Audience and level of use: cooking schools, chefs, adventuresome home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: tortilla rollups, horseradish soup with toasted pumpernickel, maghreb chicken, marinated grilled fish with Malaysian spice paste, peppercorn pilaf, sesame dan dan noodles, Taos corn husk muffins with chipotle and cheese. What I don’t like about this book: mildly piquant recipes? Why bother? To answer the question about what wines and beers should be served with hot foods, they cop out by saying “serve a selection”. We need more research in this area… What I do like about this book: sections on complements and cool downs. Also, while many recipes can be found elsewhere, it is good that many hot dishes from around the world are together under one cover. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 23. VANCOUVER COOKS (Douglas & McIntyre, 2004, 218 pages, ISBN 1-55365- 028-X, $40 paper covers) is edited by Jamie Maw, food editor of Vancouver magazine and a founding member of the Chef’s Table Society of British Columbia, for whom the book is meant as a fund raiser. All proceeds go to a Scholarship and Bursary Fund to help young chefs committed to the development of regional cuisine. The Society is dedicated to using local ingredients in regional cooking, and to that end, all recipes have wine notes and recommendations based on B.C. wines. Here are over 100 recipes contributed by about 50 chefs (their pictures are all on the title pages; their biographies are at the back of the book) working in the GVA: restaurants of Vancouver, southern Vancouver Island, Whistler, and the Okanagan Valley. Thus, wine country is included. This is mainly Asian and native and fusion foods with the laidback West Coast style. Joan Cross kitchen tested the recipes for home cooking consistency. Arrangement of the book is alphabetical by restaurant name, but there is a listing at the front of all the recipes, re-sorted by course, and an index to ingredients at the rear. Audience and level of use: cookbook collectors, Vancouver foodies, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pan-roasted Ling Cod with clam vinaigrette (Don Letendre), vacherin with blood orange sorbet (Christophe Letard), smoked tuna broth with seared tuna (James Walt), birch syrup-glazed pacific wild salmon (Robert Clark), baked cornbread and quinoa pudding (Bernard Casavant), asian pears in phyllo (Sean Cousins). What I don’t like about this book: there are no menus; it would have been a great opportunity to construct a few. Also, only volume measurements are used but without metric equivalents table. What I do like about this book: great photos of the dishes; great database of local recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: it may mean more to Vancouver, say 93. Otherwise, 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS -- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JUNE 2005 ============================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINES OF CANADA (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 307 pages, ISBN 1-84533-007-2, $39.95 hard covers) is by John Schreiner, a well-known Canadian wine writer with a half-dozen or so Canadian wine books under his belt. A few years back he wrote the definitive book on Icewine, and “The World of Canadian Wine”. In fact, he had just revised his book on B.C. wines for Whitecap (my wine book of the month for April 2005), so many of his comments on B.C. wines have unfortunately been duplicated here. The book is in a (by now) standard format for the Mitchell Beazley wine library: some sketch maps, vintage charts, production figures, no illustrations, a history of the industry, the different grape varieties, the terroirs and wine styles, and a division of wineries into top level and all the rest (giving for each some directory information such as names, addresses, websites, description of the winery, some biographical data about the owner and/or winemaker). There are also star ratings on wine quality but no tasting notes. Schreiner, like the other authors, contributes some opinions about current trends. He also adds a chapter on Vincor and its role on the international wine scene. They currently have significant investments and alliances, such as the one with Boisset of Burgundy in Ontario and with Taillan of Bordeaux in B.C. Totally unique in this book is the section on icewines. Schreiner also adds fruit wines, ciders and meads, for winemaking in Canada is still a small industry. There are only about 135 licenses in B.C., slightly fewer in Ontario, and only a handful in the other provinces (mostly fruit and cideries). Since my detailed knowledge of Canadian wines is greater than my detailed knowledge of the wines of other countries, I came across some errors of fact (Salmon River is not a winery; it is just a label), some errors related to elapsed time (Alliance is no longer being made, St.Jacob’s Winery and Cidery is no longer around, GrapeTree Wines has ceased production yet still has a website unchanged since 2002), and some typos (“remaned” for “renamed”, “diamon” for “diamond”). Audience and level of use: lovers of Canadian wines, wine schools, wine professionals. Some interesting or unusual facts: About Thirty Bench wines, he says “This is a winery where three heads are better than one.” But now the winery has been sold, and the three heads are no more. In fact, there have been severe changes in the Canadian wine industry over the past year, and it is impossible to be uptodate everywhere. What I don’t like about this book: there are no tasting notes, just overall quality assessments. What I do like about this book: fruit wineries and cideries are included, and there are internal page references. Quality/Price Ratio: 92.. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. VEGETARIAN TIMES COMPLETE COOKBOOK (Wiley Publishing, 2005, 490 pages, ISBN 0-7645-5959-1, $44.99 hard covers) is from the magazine “Vegetarian Times” which has been publishing since 1974. This book was originally published in 1995; this is its second edition. Six hundred recipes cover all courses, and embraces all forms of vegetarianism, from part timers to vegans. There is a useful “Fast Food Chapter” (30 minutes or less), a holiday section for festive meals, and a child- friendly chapter of recipes. The first fifty pages have data on a vegetarian diet and general nutrition. Each recipe has particular nutritional information; there are two recipes to a page, in general. The measurements are by U.S. volume. Other good sections include 63 menus, mail order sources (all U.S.), and a pronouncing glossary. In a book this size, there are bound to be errors. For example, the recipe for Apache polenta calls for four poblanos. But the instructions neglect to tell us what to do with them, or where they go. Audience and level of use: caterers, restaurants, cooking schools, and vegetarians. Some interesting or unusual recipes: vegan maple cheese pie, straw and hay pasta, ricotta strawberry breakfast cakes, quinoa and black bean salad, capellini-tomato pie, Swiss rarebit. What I don’t like about this book: the USDA Food Guide pyramid has been superseded. The type size of the fractions for measuring ingredients is way too tiny (e.g. 1/8 cup vinegar: what’s wrong with two tablespoons?). What I do like about this book: it is endorsed by Deborah Madison. The menus have page references, and there is an extensive index. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 3. OZ CLARKE’S AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANION; an essential guide for all lovers of Australian wine (Harcourt. Inc., 2004; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 0-15-603025-X, $26.95 paper covers) is by the well-known and popular eponymous author of several award-winning books. With a name like Oz, he’s a natural here…It’s in an easy, readable, laid-back style, for those who drink easy laid wines. He begins with a section on Oz wine styles and wine tourism. Six regions are covered: he manages to find nine wineries in Queensland. Then he has profiles of some 160 top producers. For each, there is a textual description, some indication of strengths and weaknesses, the best varietals grown by the winery, reproduction of some labels, and photos of personnel, mostly owners or winemakers. The top vineyard areas are illustrated with panoramic maps. Wine vintages are described for each region, and there are vintage charts. The section on “who owns what” is now really out of date because of the many changes in the past year. There are indexes to the main wines and to (mostly) proper names. Audience and level of use: travelers, interested drinkers, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Four major wine groups (Southcorp, Hardy’s, Orlando-Wyndham and Beringer Blass make 60% of the Oz wine. With the sale of Southcorp to Foster’s, they are now in the same camp as Beringer Blass What I don’t like about this book: there are no tasting notes. What I do like about this book: good list of wine producers. Good production values in the book. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 4. INDIAN IN SIX; 100 irresistible recipes that use 6 ingredients or less (Kyle Cathie, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-85626-558- 7, $24.95 paper covers) is by Monisha Bharadwaj, an award-winning UK cookbook author and magazine food writer. This is another helpful book for quick and easy Indian preps, especially since there is only a minimal larder to maintain. She cheats on the “six” ingredients: she also calls for a garlic-ginger paste, sunflower oil, and salt and pepper. But no matter: the recipes come from Royal India, North and South regional specialties, and families. Included are appetizers, fish, meat, veggies, lentils and sprouts, chutneys and relishes, and breads, covering breakfast, BBQs, drinks and desserts – in addition to the regular food courses. Vegetarian-only dishes are indexed, and both prep and cooking times are indicated. As well, she writes out both metric and imperial measurements. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chicken and coconut stir fry, BBQ corn on the cob with chili and lemon, egg-stuffed bread, watermelon pancakes, chickpeas and sausage stew. What I don’t like about this book: the index is only by major ingredient. What I do like about this book: major ingredients are scaled, and she makes effective use of garlic-ginger paste. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 5. SIMPLE INDIAN COOKERY; step by step to everyone’s favourite Indian recipes (BBC Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 127 pages, ISBN 0-563- 52183-X, $24.95 paper covers) is by Madhur Jaffrey, who has written over a dozen Indian cookbooks. This one was first published in 2001 as a hardback, “Foolproof Indian Cookery”. This is just a straight paperback reissue of the forty classics, with step by step photos and instructions. She has data on ingredients, equipment and menu-planning. Prep and cooking times are indicated. Her menus range from a meal for four up to a buffet for 20. The measurements are a mix of Imperial and metric forms, a no – no. The publisher’s blurb says: “the only Indian cookbook you’ll ever need”, but for only 40 recipes? I think not… Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes: yoghurt soup, mulligatawny soup, tandoori-style chicken, moghlai lamb korma. What I don’t like about this book: the seven menus have no page references, and the suppliers are all in the UK. What I do like about this book: basic stuff, large typeface. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 6. ASIAN TAPAS; small bites, big flavors (Periplus, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 0-7946-0314-9, $32.95 hard covers) is by Christophe Megel and Anton Kilayko. Megel is an executive chef of Singapore’s Ritz Carlton, where Kilayko is PR director. The material is inspired by Bali, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam and Japan. Several dishes can be used for one meal, and you can certainly mix and match cuisines. There are 70 savouries here, plus six sweets. In these dishes, presentation is important as Megal melds his Asiatic flavours. Each recipe is illustrated with a dazzling photo. Both Imperial and metric measurements are used for each of the ingredients. Megel gives a glossary of ingredients. Audience and level of use: intermediate level, caterers, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: crispy lobster and scallop nests with garlic sauce, foie gras fried rice, savory lemongrass mousse, tropical mango sushi, crisp star fruit and asparagus salad. What I don’t like about this book: type is a bit teeny for me, What I do like about this book: uses scaled ingredients. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 7. COOKING SCHOOL SECRETS FOR REAL WORLD COOKS (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 352 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4243-6, $29.95 paper covers) is by Linda Carruci, a chef and culinary consultant named Cooking Teacher of the Year for 2002 by the IACP. Thus named, she began work on a student manual, full of knife skills, mise en place, seasonal cooking, spicing, brining, tasting, menu planning, as well as ingredients, equipment and presentation in general. Most of her techniques are illustrated. The 100 recipes here are arranged by course, beginning with stocks and soups, salads, grains, through desserts. These are the basics. She also has 12 seasonal menus, an upscale and a downscale menu for six events such as Mother’s Day or the Fall. There are page references to the recipes and an indication of what is a quick prep, a makeahead, or a last minute dish. She even has substitutions listed for vegetarian equivalents. This is, naturally, a cooking course text. She has a sources list, with websites, but unfortunately for us in Canada, it is all US. The measurements are U.S. too, but there is a table of equivalents at the back of the book. Audience and level of use: caterers, cooking schools Some interesting or unusual recipes: risotto primavera with wild salmon, grilled shrimp with Romanesco sauce, turkey piccata, braised summer squash with sweet peppers, lemon marzipan cake. What I don’t like about this book: no separate heading for “vegetables”: they are just used as sides, about 20 of them – which seems overlarge to be without a specific heading. Plus there is gross overuse of the word “secret”. Sometimes it seems as if we are part of a coven. What I do like about this book: she has a bibliography for further reading. She also admits she’s too cheap to buy some organic foods. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 8. WORKING WITH BACCHUS; adventures of an impassioned Scot in an Italian vineyard (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 208 pages, ISBN 1-84533-092-7, $34.95 hard covers) is by Colin Fraser, an established author who decided to change his lifestyle. This memoir is an account of him buying land and making wine in the high Sabine Hills northeast of Rome. It is also a book about rural Italian life and Italian society. He not-so-subtly reveals the frustrations of operating a business under the Italian bureaucracy and Italian legislation. He also shows the peasant conservatism and xenophobia. As well, he tells us about his frustrations in introducing modern ways to the area. He bought seven hectares of abandoned land in 1974, which also came with an abandoned house. Both have been replanted and rebuilt, respectively, and they are now 30 years old. He uses Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes and Sangiovese. The wine is a basic vino da tavola, named Poggio Fenice. A fascinating read through Italian life…. Audience and level of use: good for any one drawn to life or wine in Italy, entrepreneurs who wish to do business in Europe. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Italy is rather strict about applying the privacy law that limits the use of people’s real names, unless it is “in the public interest” to do so. I have therefore changed the names of most of the people who figure in the book”. What I don’t like about this book: there is index, which limits its usefulness. What I do like about this book: Fraser is a good writer. There are nice pictures of the winery and property in various stages of its development, in a free-standing picture section. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 9. ITALIAN DIABETIC MEALS IN 30 MINUTES – OR LESS! (American Diabetes Association, 2005; distr. by McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 174 pages, ISBN 1- 58040-220-8, $21.95 paper covers) is by Robyn Webb who specializes in the 30 minute cookbook for the ADA (see my review from last month); she has written seven such books since 1996. Okay, so here are 100 plus favourite Italian recipes, given some pizzazz with Italian names. Most are low in carb content. Each recipe has a nutritional analysis with exchanges as substitutes. But there is no glycemic index. Most of the preps are Tuscan in style: pastas, meats, beans, vegetables, fruit and desserts. And most recipe instructions are two steps, and only need a standard skillet and a sharp knife. While the ingredient list for each recipe is short, you’ll still need a larder (olive oils, tomatoes, herbs, garlic, cheeses). You’ll also need a mise en place to have everything chopped and ready to roll. U.S. measurements are used. Audience and level of use: diabetics, caterers, dieters. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Venetian lamb chops, orecchiette with broccoli-bacon-garlic, balsamic chicken and tomato, veal with leeks and mushrooms. What I don’t like about this book: a Glycemic Index might have been useful, especially since it is the latest buzz word. There is no metric conversion chart. What I do like about this book: large print, two indexes (one alphabetical for recipes, one by ingredients in bold face). Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 10. IN 3 EASY STEPS; fabulous food without the fuss (Kyle Cathie, 2005; distr. by Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-85626-572-2, $24.95 paper covers) is by Conrad Gallagher, now an executive chef in South Africa, but formerly owner-chef of a variety of restaurants in Dublin and New York City. This is his third such book for cooking quick and easy restaurant food at home. The others concerned one pots and six ingredients. Here, he breaks down the 110 recipes and recombines them. All courses are covered, from apps to nuts. Both Imperial and metric measurements are given for the recipes. There is some fudging to keep the techniques at three steps. For instance, at step three for the blood orange soufflé we are instructed to: a) butter the ramekins, b) pour the mixture into them, c) cook in a preheated over for 10 minutes, and d) dust with icing sugar. That’s four distinct actions. It might be more truthful to say “3 easy acts”, with the acts broken into scenes…. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: salmon with smoked chicken-mango- white asparagus, roasted rack of lamb with minted sourdough, roasted monkfish in eggplant skins, African braised oxtail with wine-onions- sweet potatoes, blue cheese and bacon risotto. What I don’t like about this book: the index indents are wrong, which can be confusing to some people. Also, it would have been useful to have some wine recommendations. What I do like about this book: All the major ingredients are scaled by weight. The main item in each recipe is indicated in bold type. The photos look great. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 11. THE WINE LOVER COOKS ITALIAN; pairing great recipes with a perfect glass of wine (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4100-6, $32.95 paper covers) is by Brian St. Pierre, an American wine writer (NY Times, Gourmet, Wine Spectator), now living in London and writing regularly for Decanter. This is a wine expert’s advice on matching Italian wine to Italian food. Chapters cover the different winegrowing regions, with data on wines being broken down into red, white, and sparkling for each area. He tries to stress the differences in gastronomy and culture between each province. Italian olive oil and cheeses are also presented, Wines are listed in order of their prominence; most are with notes on style and food matches. This is more a wine book than a recipe book. Each food preparation has a listing for a “recommended wine” and for an “alternative” or two by way of choices. U.S. volume measurements are used, with a metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: the serious foodie, winelovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pasta with chicken-spinach-and herb sauce, panettone raisin custard, mushrooms stuffed with goat cheese and pesto, vincisgrassi, herbed fish with zucchini timballo. What I don’t like about this book: lots of white space, could have been fleshed out with more notes. What I do like about this book: glossary of Italian wine terms. The index to recipes and ingredients has the recipe “bulleted”. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 12. FLAVOURS (Kyle Cathie, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 184 pages, ISBN 1- 85626-606-0, $24.95 paper covers) is by Paul Gayler, It was first published in 2002 in the UK. The recipes are arranged by flavours: six herbs, eight spices, six fruit and vegetables (garlic, chile, lemon and lime, olives, tamarind, vanilla), and five condiments (balsamic, coffee, honey, salt, chocolate). He explains what each flavour is, gives about five recipes each (total of 125) plus paged cross- references to other recipes using that flavour in other sections (e.g., for coriander, there are five main recipes plus nine others). He offers the usual set of tips and advice on how to buy, store and use. Gayler also contributes a listing of complementary flavours. Metric and Imperial measurements are listed for the recipes. Audience and level of use: cooking schools, restaurants, home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Aztec eggs, coriander-lime grilled figs, lemon grass soy chicken skewers, minted chicken and eggplant salad, andalusian fish soup with saffron aioli. What I don’t like about this book: type size for instructions is a tad small. What I do like about this book: good in depth index. The recipes are scaled for ingredients. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 13. RISOTTO WITH VEGETABLES, SEAFOOD, MEAT AND MORE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T.Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-812-8, $36.95 hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a cooking teacher and writer who specializes in Italian food. She has also written other such books for Ryland in the past. Beginning with the basics (white risotto step-by- step, broths), she continues with sections on Best Broths, Useful Ingredients, Websites, and U>S. mail order sources. There is a vegetarian section, but of course risottos deal mostly with cheese, egg, poultry, meats, and seafood. There are 46 recipes here plus six others (e.g., “barlotto” barley risotto, arancine di riso, and desserts). The book has metric conversion charts for the U.S. volume measurements. Audience and level of use: home cooks, those who only want the basics. Some interesting or unusual recipes: gelato di riso, fennel and black olive risotto, pesto risotto, chicken confit risotto, beet risotto. What I don’t like about this book: a bit short in the recipe count, needs more. What I do like about this book: each recipe illustrated with a lush presentation photo. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 14. CRUSH ON NIAGARA; the definitive wine tour guide (Whitecap, 2005, 160 pages, ISBN 1-55285-660-7, $19.95 paper covers) is by Andrew Brooks, a sommelier who not only owns a Niagara vineyard but also a wine tour company (Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. He profiles 56 wineries in the Niagara Peninsula, from the smallest (Domaine Vagners, 1000 litres) to the largest. But the industry continues to shake out with several mergers and acquisitions announced after his book was put to bed. The directory data includes winery hours, contact information, annual production, acreage (not hectares), and where to purchase the wine. Other basic contents include wine serving and wine pairing suggestions, glassware tips, accommodation, shopping, and eating places. The book is very useful for information about the smaller and newer wineries, such as Caroline Cellars, Palatine Hills, and the organic Frogpond Farm. Each profile gets two pages, accompanied by photos. There is even one fruit (non-grape) winery. Chase gives an assessment of the better wines and his recommendations (“Sommelier’s picks”). Audience and level of use: Ontario wine lover, traveler. Some interesting or unusual facts: “From Grimsby to Niagara-on-the- Lake, this 40-kilometre stretch of land represents approximately 16,000 acres of vines, with hundreds of new vineyards being planted annually.” What I don’t like about this book: the photos are often small and dark. There are no real Tasting Notes. What I do like about this book: front and back covers have page references to wineries, listed in alphabetical order. There is a good chapter on tips on buying Niagara wines. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 15. 101 THINGS TO DO WITH A TORTILLA (Gibbs Smith, 2005, 123 pages, ISBN 1-58685-469-0, $12.95 spiral bound) is by Stephanie Ashcraft and Donna Kelly, both enthusiastic cooks. This is one of series of “101 Things to Do With A…” First, there are about 20 recipes here for corn tortilla chips (which is sort of cheating in the count) and only 20 recipes for corn tortillas themselves. No substitutions are even hinted at. All courses are family style, with appetizers, wraps, kids, snacks, soups and salads. Convenience food are used (jars, cans, powders). Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes: southwest egg rolls, chicken enchilada soup, creamy turkey tortilla soup, seafood tostada salad, breakfast tostada, green chile eggs benedict, huevos rancheros stacks. What I don’t like about this book: there are too many flour tortilla preps and there is no index What I do like about this book: bargain price, spiral binding. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 16. THE WINES OF THE NAPA VALLEY (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 264 pages, ISBN 1-84000-994-2, $39.95 hard covers) is by Larry Walker, a food and wine writer based in San Francisco. He covers the grape varieties (cabernet sauvignon is best, of course) and the major viticulture issues, winemaking techniques, history and culture. Most of the book is a directory of top wine producers with profiles of the estates and their wines. The top wines — the A list – are covered in 70 pages, along with area demarcations (Stags Leap, Atlas Peak, Carneros, Chiles, Diamond Mountain, Howell Mountain, etc.). He has the usual names and numbers, production figures, vintages, acid and alcohol levels. There is a good section on phylloxera and the AxR-1 rootstock. The positive side effects of phylloxera: growers took a closer look at rootstocks, trellising, pruning, shoot positioning, terroir, and clone selection for replacement vines. Walker also gives us some short notes on where to eat and stay. The index is mainly to names plus a few topics. Audience and level of use: Napa collectors, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Napa wine is very much a moving target, caught up by profound changes in the vineyard and in wine- making techniques”. To which I would add: and by changes in ownership. What I don’t like about this book: at least one major misspelling (Madeline Kamin?), only one basic line sketch map, a brief bibliography of only seven books, no mention of the movie “Mondovino” (the globalization of wine) nor the problems that owners and residents of Napa have with tourists. What I do like about this book: there are some tasting notes. Vintage notes are from 1973 through 2004. There is a hilarious description of an early dinner at Bouchon, where the author was at a table not far from Robert Mondavi and some UK wine writers, headed “the Mondavis perform”. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 17. OMELETS & FRITTATAS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-818-7, $19.95 hard covers) is by Jennie Shapter, a food stylist and food writer. These are ideas for a handful of basic, quick meals. As a rule, eggs plus leftovers work rather well in preps. The omelets section here has the basic summer herbs omelet, and the adventuresome Italian Frittatas and Spanish Tortillas chapters have more bold presentations. There are sections on breakfasts and brunches, and the emphasis is definitely on savouries. Shapter makes good use of the omelet pan, a required piece of equipment. While there are US volume measurements, there is a metric conversion chart at the back. Audience and level of use: beginners, leftover lovers (like me) Some interesting or unusual recipes: caramelized onion and blue cheese omelet, feta cheese and tomato open omelet, porcini frittata, grilled bell pepper frittata, chickpea tortilla. What I don’t like about this book: a bit pricey, and there are no sweets. What I do like about this book: good photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 81. 18. VATCH’S THAI KITCHEN; Thai dishes to cook at home (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-808-X, $24.95 hard covers) is by Vatcharin Bhumichitr, a well-known chef and author of several eponymous Thai cookbooks. These recipes here use commonly available ingredients, written with the westerner in mind. Coverage is from apps to sweets, with curries and relishes and beverages. He presents a list of ingredients for the pantry and the utensils needed. The websites and mail order sources are all U.S., and there are metric conversion charts for the U.S. measurements. Audience and level of use: beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes: shrimp wrapped in crispy noodles, chicken wings with lemongrass, cauliflower-mushroom-coconut soup, vermicelli salad, mussel pancake. What I don’t like about this book: I think he needs more recipes, although all of the basic dishes are here. What I do like about this book: he indicates which dishes are suitable for vegetarians. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 19. TASTES OF NORTH AFRICA; recipes from Morocco to the Mediterranean (Kyle Cathie, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-85626-602-8, $24.95) is by Sarah Woodward, who has written similar cookbooks. It was originally published in 1998 as “Moorish Food”; this is a revised edition but with the original photos. Here are 100 recipes, with historical contexts for food and spices and styles of eating. The regions include Morocco, Andalusia, Sicily, Catalonia, Provence, and Valencia. Most people think of Morocco as the home of tagine, couscous, and sticky almond pastries. Of course, there is more, although both chicken and lamb dishes dominate. Woodward says that most of her recipes in this book were originally “picked up on the road” from local markets, people and restaurants. The range is all courses, and both Imperial and metric measurements are listed. Audience and level of use: home cooks, travelers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sweet tagine of lamb with raisins and almonds, Sicilian couscous with fish stew, chicken-lemon and mint soup, salad of oranges and olives, monkfish kebabs. What I don’t like about this book: needs more photos of food and fewer photos of travel. What I do like about this book: ingredients are scaled. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 20. MAMBO MIXERS; recipes for 50 luscious Latin cocktails and 20 tantalizing tapas (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 120 pages, ISBN 1-58479-398-8, $23.95 hard covers) is by Arlen Gargagliano, a food writer specializing in new Latin cuisines. It is a straightforward book for “hora de cocteles” (cocktail hour in Latin America). She covers the bars, homes, parties, Mexico, Peru, Cuba, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, the Caribbean, et al. There are serving suggestions and make ahead ideas. Five basic sections cover champagne (4 recipes plus two tapas), classics and variations (18 preps plus 8 tapas), martini variations, punches, coffee and dessert drinks. US volume measurements are employed, but there is a handy conversion chart. Audience and level of use: bars, party givers Some interesting or unusual recipes: empanaditas de carne, Brazilian cheese puffs, Peruvian skewered beef, guacamole with grapes and nuts, toasted butternut squash salad. What I don’t like about this book: too short, we need more drinks and tapas. What I do like about this book: surprisingly, a full index. Great photos of drinks and food combos. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 21. CHEESE FROM FONDUE TO CHEESECAKE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-810-1, $36.95 hard covers) is by “contributing editor” Fiona Beckett, who did three of the recipes here. She coordinated the production with a stable of Ryland Peters & Small writers such as Maxine Clark (who contributes most of the preps), Louise Pickford, Jane Noraika and nine others. Some of the text about cheese was also previously published. The 50 recipes cover all the basics plus all the courses. There is material on cheese types, how to cook with what cheese, cheese and wine, strong cheeses and blues. Basically, the book says you can cook with soft, hard, blue, goat, and feta cheeses. The other cheeses are for you to serve on your own. U.S. volume measurements are used, with metric conversion charts. Audience and level of use: beginners, cheese lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: parmesan chips, pear-pecorino-pea crostini, spinach-blue cheese phyllo, warm chocolate mascarpone cheesecake, potatoes baked with roblochon. What I don’t like about this book: some ingredients in the recipes are not indexed. Also, this is a collection of previously published recipes and texts offered for sale at a high price. What I do like about this book: the basics are covered, and the photos are, of course, yummy. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 22. PIZZA; 50 traditional and alternative recipes for the oven and grill (Quarry Books, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-59253-154-7, $22.95 paper covers) And 23. SANDWICHES, PANINI AND WRAPS; recipes for the “anytime, anywhere” meal (Quarry Books, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-59253-153-9, $22.95 paper covers) Are both by Dwayne Ridgaway, a chef, caterer, food writer, and multiple cookbook author. The major difference is that the first book is “open” while the second book is “covered”. In the Pizza book, she has sauces, doughs, toppings, and cheeses. She gives the principles plus details of how pizza should look and how to serve it. She has the classics, contemporary, salad pizzas, grilled pizzas, dessert pizzas. Plus a good chapter on using lavash bread as a surface. The Sandwiches book includes recipes for condiments, spreads, salads, sides and desserts. She deconstructs a sandwich so that you can build your own according to the principles. There are 43 hot and cold sandwiches, most with a photo shot to see all the trimmings. Both US and metric measurements are used by side by side in the recipes. Audience and level of use: beginner, caterers, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: beef panini with black bean pesto, crab cake panini with grilled onion relish, California bagel sandwich, ciabatta pizza loaves, grilled pizza with fried calamari, apricot and blackberry pizza with camembert and sweet ricotta cheese. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine suggestions, nor are there any suggestions for non-wheat flours. Tiny font sizes are used for the ingredient listings in the recipes. The one calzone in the Pizza book could have been better served in the Sandwich book. What I do like about this book: there are bread recipes (ciabatta, white loaf, cracked wheat, pita, rolls, baguettes, and seven kinds of pizza doughs. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR MAY 2005 =========================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. A DOUBLE SCOTCH; how Chivas Regal and The Glenlivet became global icons (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 290 pages, ISBN 0-471-66271-2, $35.99 hard covers) is by F. Paul Pacult, a free-lance beer and spirits writer who also has had his own successful newsletter for over 15 years. He also authored “American Still Life: the Jim Beam story”. This is an insider’s look at Chivas Regal (a best selling blend) and The Glenlivet (the best selling single malt). At one point, Chivas got most of its malted scotch from The Glenlivet. Eventually, Chivas was owned by Seagram and then in 1978 Seagram’s purchased The Glenlivet. Pernod Ricard bought them both in 2002 when Diageo and PR split the brands of now-defunct Seagram Liquors. Pacult begins with a brief history of Scotch, followed by a corporate history of the two companies, and then he progresses through competition, government regulations, illicit distilling, rioting, smuggling, murder, wars and Prohibition. The Glenlivet was licensed in 1824, to George and John Gordon Smith, Highland farmers, from Glenlivet and Speyside. Blended scotches began in the 1830s, and the Chivas brothers (James and John, both upscale Aberdeen grocers who never owned or operated a distillery) started selling a blend. Later, Seagram bought them both, first Chivas and then The Glenlivet. So this book is about three different families and their marketing development. There are black and white historical photographs, and reproductions of documents. There is also bibliography of sources, plus a detailed index. For me, one of the more interesting parts of this book are the appendices, wherein Pacult interviews Colin Scott, the master blender of Chivas, and Jim Cryle, the master distiller of The Glenlivet. It is good to read their takes on their products. This followed by a series of tasting notes from Pacult’s newsletter. He reviews five Chivas Regal blends and 13 The Glenlivet single malts, all of various ages. Audience and level of use: the interested scotch collector., schools of hospitality, marketing programs. Some interesting or unusual facts: on page 266, “One Scotch whisky was designed and born as a deluxe blend in the backroom of an Aberdeen grocery store; the other was conceived in a picturesque natural trough in the Grampian Highlands that was once Scotland’s most notorious hotbed of illicit distilling. One became the unrivalled darling of an irascible Canadian liquor industry baron who took his masterpiece to the world market through guile and organization; the other became the archetype of its class, yet remained within the founding family through four generations spanning a century and a half.” What I don’t like about this book: it’s a tad dry, chock full of names and dates and places. You’ll need a scorecard to plot the characters, especially since two separate companies are involved. Also, there is a slight feeling of subsidized PR here since there is nothing in the book that is critical about Pernod, Seagram, Chivas or The Glenlivet. The approach is soft. What I do like about this book: despite what I said above, the book must be seen as authoritative in that it was issued with a “Foreword” by the CEO of Pernod Ricard. Pacult had access to company archives, public relations staff, executives, distillery employees. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE WEEKEND BAKER; irresistible recipes, simple techniques, and stress-free strategies for busy people (W.W.Norton, 2005, 384 pages, ISBN 0-393-05883-2, $44 hard cover) is by Abigail Johnson Dodge, a baking writer with “Fine Cooking” and author of several other baked goods books. Her recipes are divided into three sections, according to the time they take to make. First up is “baker’s express”, ten minutes to an hour in prep time, with few ingredients, simple techniques, to produce quick food. Next is “baking in stages”, with plenty of “Do Aheads” which precede each recipe, so it can fit tour schedule by the day or by the week. The finished products here keep a week in the fridge or more in the freezer. This section also includes make ahead crusts and grain mixtures. Section three is the “productions”, mainly for a celebration (birthdays, holidays), glam efforts that can be made over time. In all, there are 150 recipes here, plus the basic introduction to baking. Many of the preps are for desserts; there are a few bread recipes. The ingredients are listed by US volume, by weight, and by metric weights. Still, you’ll need to have a good pantry and equipment. Audience and level of use: weekend bakers, busy people. Some interesting or unusual recipes: emergency blender cupcakes, warm cinnamon-spiced blueberry cake, apricot-pistachio biscotti, double- ginger ricotta tart, old fashioned ice cream sandwiches. What I don’t like about this book: some indexing problems, such as “Uncomplicated Fruit-Topped Yellow Cake” is not indexed under “Fruit”. What I do like about this book: the photo section has page references. The print is large. She emphasizes that ingredients must be scaled. The index has titles and ingredients indexed, as well as separate entries for the three large categories. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 3. WINES OF AUSTRALIA; new and revised edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 212 pages, ISBN 1-84533-057-9, $21.95 hard cover) is by James Halliday, well-known wine writer and consultant in Australia. and 4. WINES OF BURGUNDY; new and revised edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 232 pages, ISBN 1-84533-019-6, $21.95 hard cover) is by Serena Sutcliffe, British MW and writer, with the revision help of Neil Beckett. and 5. WINES OF SPAIN; new and revised edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 208 pages, ISBN 1-84533-018-8, $21.95 hard cover) is by Jan Read, leading authority and writer on Spanish wines. All three books are part of the Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides (formerly the pocket guides) and are regularly revised every two years. The publisher has maintained the old prices, the colours on the dust jackets have changed, and all three now say “New and Revised Edition”. Also, Sutcliffe’s reviser has changed from Patrick Matthews to Neil Beckett, with no further explanations. The index in the Burgundy shows that “weather” has been added, but no longer discussed are weed killers, wood aging, and yeasts. The section on “terroir” is now titled “Climate, Soil and Topography” (why the change? I liked terroir, such a nice French word for a French region: they invented the word!). The Spanish book has more notes on changes in the laws and more bodegas which are producing. The Australian book has dropped its two star categorization (two stars = “hard to recommend”). And there are lots and lots of changes in ownership, new wineries, mergers and acquisitions in this exploding country. Take the “Y” index: gone are Yaldara Wines (bought by Simeon), Yandoit Hills Vineyard, Yarramar Road Estate, Yass Valley Wines, Yunbar Estate. Say hello to: Yalumba The Menzies, Yangarra Estate, Yarramon Estate, Yilgarnia. All three books have updated facts, figures and vintage charts, reflecting changes in production, plus address changes, etc. in the directory section. These books are a must purchase. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 6. EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: ITALIAN RIVIERA (DK Books, 2005, 224 pages, ISBN 0756609119, $30 paper covers) was originally published in Italy in 2003, in the UK in 2004, and now in North America this year. It is one of over 90 titles in the “Eyewitness Travel” guides series, which emphasizes a lot of colourful photographs. Coverage is extended to beaches, architecture, restaurants and accommodation, churches, museums, festivals, parks. The Italian Riviera is Genoa, east and west of Genoa, and for all these there are over 600 photos and illustrations and maps. Every area has small road maps and street maps. Audience and level of use: travelers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Liguria has the lowest birth rate in Italy, making it the lowest in Europe. What I don’t like about this book: there is no index. Also, the book is heavy to lift because of all the illustrative pages. What I do like about this book: good section on useful phrases, plus floor plans and cutaways for all major sites/sights. There are also walks, thematic tours, and scenic routes. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 7. ROSE; a guide to the world’s most versatile wine (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 120 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4355-6, $26.95 hard cover) is by Jeff Morgan, a wine and food writer who also makes dry rose under the SoloRosa label. Often described as “summer in a glass”, rose wine is quite often used as an aperitif or sparkler, and then quickly forgotten. Morgan attempts to prove that theory wrong, by taking us on a tour through Provence, Australia, Spain, Italy, with notes on history and culture, production methods (e.g., saignee), styles of sweet or dry or sparkling. Morgan also gives us some 13 food recipes to accompany roses, such as pissaladiere, prosciutto sandwich, fish soup, and fried oysters. The tasting guide at the end covers about 200 wines, with country/region of origin, name, a tasting note, but no prices. There are US volume measurements and a metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: beginning wine drinkers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Rose is best with a good meal”. What I don’t like about this book: a bit slim. What I do like about this book: rose, rosado, rosato – whatever you call them, they are the ultimate fresh and fruity wine. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 8. TORONTO; DK eyewitness top 10 travel guides (DK, 2005, 128 pages, ISBN 0-7566-0903-8, $15 paper covers) is by Lorraine Johnson and Barbara Hopkinson, both unidentified until the very last page (travel experts and editors). And 9. TORONTO FOR DUMMIES (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 300 pages, ISBN 0-470- 83398-X, $ 25.99 paper covers) is by Michael Kelly, a seasoned American-born traveler and writer, now living in Canada. Top Ten is done in Top Ten list style, as a guide to all the sites/sights in town. It is one of a series to many cities and regions of the world, and it has both current and useful information, such as (from the world of Toronto food) the ten best liveliest bars and clubs, ten best restaurants for each area of town, ten best ethnic restaurants, ten best snacks, ten best brunches, ten best wineries to tour. There are lots of maps and colour photos, with a street index to the downtown area, TTC maps for the subway, and some road maps for beyond Toronto. As uptodate as it might be, there are changes: SkyDome is now Rogers Centre, and at least one brunch place has closed. The Dummies book has tips and recommendations from the Frommer’s teams, with good travel advice for subway and streetcars. It presents the basic facts and history, and gives daytrips to Stratford and Niagara. The huge dining section is pretty comprehensive. Kelly gives details for the restaurants plus websites for discovering more of them (e.g., Chowhound). There is a map and a description of the PATH underground walkway system. The yellow paged appendix details toll-free numbers and other websites. Some changes: Greg’s ice cream may have a Spadina address, but it fronts on Bloor and this needs to be noted, in order to eliminate confusion. You’ll probably need both books, the Top Ten once you get to Toronto. Audience and level of use: travelers Some interesting or unusual facts: St.Lawrence Market is considered by gastronomes around the globe as one of the world’s best markets. What I don’t like about this book: Top Ten could be limiting, and stretching it a bit to cover ten places. The cover says “ten best street snacks”, but really it is just “ten best snacks” and covers food not found in the outdoors or on the “street”. Also, while there is a section headed “Toronto East”, there is no comparable section for “Toronto West”. The Dummies book gives a whole pile of restaurant recommendations for Stratford, but only two for the Niagara region. What I do like about this book: Top Ten has foldable maps in the cover. Dummies book has separate Accommodations and Restaurant indexes. Quality/Price Ratio: Top Ten gets 84; Dummies gets 85. 10. GRAZING; portable snacks and finger foods for anytime, anywhere (One Smart Cookie, 2005; distr. Whitecap, 195 pages, ISBN 0-9687563-1- X, $19.99 paper covers) is by Julie Van Rosendaal, a free-lance food writer and cooking school chef who also published a baking book, “One Smart Cookie”. This book is all about street food and party food. It has biscuits, crunchy foods, crisp foods, dips, food on a stick, parcels, and desserts – over 250 of them, mostly quick and easy, with an emphasis on low fat. Each preparation has nutritional data (calories, fats, proteins, carbohydrates, cholesterol, fibre counts). There is the temptation to eat ONLY this food, especially if you are a solo cook. There are US volume measurements, but unfortunately no metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: young folks, beginners Some interesting or unusual recipes: sweet potato oven fries, flavoured popcorn, flaxseed wafers, pork satay, berry oat squares, peanut brittle. What I don’t like about this book: there are no page references for the photos, the book’s binding is not secure, the index is only by course or product name (and not also by ingredient: hence “Radish & Roasted Red Pepper Dip” is NOT in the roasted red pepper sequence). What I do like about this book: excellent graphics and layout, despite some gratuitous screened black and white photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 11. 200 HEALTHY RECIPES IN 30 MINUTES OR LESS (Small Steps Press, 2005; distr. McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 268 pages, ISBN 1-58040-226-7, $22.95 paper covers) is by Robyn Webb, associate editor of “Diabetes Forecast” and author of six other American Diabetes Association cookbooks. In fact, this book was formerly published by the ADA under different titles in 1996, 1997, and 1999. Here, much has been updated and combined. Food types include pasta, rice, poultry, meat, seafood, sides for all courses. And it’s a smart move to take these low-fat and low- carbohydrate dishes OUT of the realm of a “diabetes” diet and drop it into the low-carb, low-fat diet arena (South Beach, Atkins, ad nauseum)…To keep everything down to 30 minutes, Webb emphasizes meal planning, kitchen organization, and maintaining a larder/pantry. Each recipe has substitutions and exchanges and nutritional data. Audience and level of use: beginner, dieter, caterers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: New England mini corn cakes, ginger and lime salmon, grilled chicken with herbs, chocolate spice pudding. What I don’t like about this book: recipes names lack some pizzazz (glamour) What I do like about this book: good value book with lots of recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 12. ENOTECA; simple, delicious recipes in the Italian wine bar tradition (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 196 pages, ISBN 0- 8118-4737-3, $22.95 paper covers) is by Joyce Goldstein, a Mediterranean-cooking expert and food author. It was originally published in 2001, and this its paperback reissue. There is material about the history of the tavernae in Italy. The recipes have all been sourced from restaurants in Italy, and thus are regional. The appetizers have been deliberately chosen to be light and simple, for cocktail parties or luncheons or as first courses. The wine recommendations for each dish include both an Italian wine and an alternate wine or region. For example, with a cornmeal raisin cookie, you could try Torcolato (Italy) or Tokay (Hungary). Four or five wines are normally recommended, and they come with food-pairing notes. US volume measurements (with a metric equivalents table) are used, and there is even a bibliography. Audience and level of use: intermediate, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: harvest grape focaccia, pasta gratin with leeks and sausages and mushrooms, duck breast with balsamic vinegar and orange, Sicilian swordfish rolls, pork and borlotti bean stew. What I don’t like about this book: bibliography not updated after 1999. What I do like about this book: the wine recommendations. There are good food notes too. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 13. PUNCH (Chronicle Books, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 96 pages, ISBN 0- 8118-4177-4, $19.95 hard cover) is by Colleen Mullaney, formerly editor for “Family Circle Home Crafts”. Here are 35 classic and exotic punches, with and without alcohol: fruity concoctions, tropical drinks, sparkling punches, teas and lemonades. Mullaney gives some advice on choosing liquor, which punch bowl to use, ideas for decorative ice rings and cubes. Audience and level of use: beginner, sunshine lovers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Panch” (Hindi) means five, referring to the five ingredients originally used (limes, sugar, spices, water, and arrack rum). What I don’t like about this book: photos for presentation ideas don’t show much. There’s no appeal in looking at a routine glass or pitcher. What I do like about this book: punches are celebrations in a bowl. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 14. DAVID ROSENGARTEN ENTERTAINS; fabulous parties for food lovers (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 394 pages, ISBN 0-471-461-98-9, $50.99 hard cover) is by the well-known multiple award winning food and wine writer (book, TV, newspaper, magazine). His book is based on his newsletter “The Rosengarten Report”. Here are sixteen finely crafted blueprints for dinner parties centering on a specific theme or food. The full range of courses include apps, mains, sides, desserts, and beverages. He suggests a tempura party for six people (the rest of the meals are for 12), a Texas BBQ, a Mexican street party, Greek grill, Cassoulet, suckling pig, couscous party, Bouillabaisse party, and a Devon Cream Tea. For the tapas party, you’ll need to reproduce a tapas bar in your home, and he gives directions on how to do it, with or without the whole leg of Spanish jamon. Every theme comes with his planning notes, presentation, table settings, beverages, and music. He even has a “where to find it section” for each theme; this is useful only for Americans. He uses US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: for those who want some adventure in their lives. Some interesting or unusual recipes: gazpacho in a pitcher, polenta cookies with chopped pistachio nuts, deep-fried brik with tuna and capers and egg, pepper jack corn bread, apple mostardo. What I don’t like about this book: some of the photos look ordinary, e.g., the green tea ice cream. There is no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: the photo sections have page references to the recipes. There is a bold typeface used when the ingredients are listed. Quality/Price Ratio: 84 15. THE BEST LOW-CARB COOKBOOK (Robert Rose, 2005, 381 pages, ISBN 0- 7788-0117-9, $24.95 paper covers) is an in-house production from the Canadian cookbook publisher Robert Rose. There doesn’t seem to be anyone credited with organizing the book, not even a committee. There are “contributing authors” and some books from Robert Rose listed at the back, with page references to the recipes. But the recipes themselves are not sourced on their page. Thirteen cookbook authors (Julia Aitken, Johanna Burkhard, Linda Stephen, Byron Ayanoglu, Rose Murray, et al) donated 475 recipes for the cause of insulin resistance and the Glycemic Index. There is a short introduction on how to handle carbohydrates, both inside and outside the home. All courses, from soup to nuts, are here, with separate tables of contents for each course. There are usually one or two recipes on a page. And as a Canadian book, it has both Imperial measurements AND metric measurements in two columns in the same recipe. Each recipe has a nutritional analysis for calories, protein, carbohydrates, cholesterol, fibre, fat and sodium. Audience and level of use: beginner, anyone with health concerns, caterers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: creamy mustard chicken, red snapper with broccoli and dill cheese sauce, greens with strawberries, smoked turkey toss, pecan biscotti. What I don’t like about this book: the binding seems insecure, and the book (because of its size) may not hold up. What I do like about this book: good database, 475 recipes. The colour photos of plated dishes have page references. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 16. ESSENTIAL WINETASTING; the complete practical winetasting course (Mitchell Beazley, 2005; distr. McArthur, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84533-020- X, $29.95 paper covers) is the reissued 2000 hardbound edition, but in paperback. Author Michael Schuster is a well-renowned UK wine educator and wine writer (Decanter, Wine International); he has been described as a first-rate wine teacher. This basic book has won three major writing prizes. Tasting techniques and the basics of viticulture/viniculture/regions/varieties are laid out. He offers nine practical tastings, to show the differences or influences with terroir, Old versus New world reds and whites. All the major wine styles and grape varieties are tasted. Every wine educator could use this book as an introductory model. Schuster has maps, a glossary of tasting terms, vintage charts, and bibliography. Audience and level of use: beginner tasters. Some interesting or unusual facts: www.michaelschusterwine.com keeps the book up-to-date. What I don’t like about this book: it needs updating – the vintage charts go as far as 1999, the production figures to 1996/98, and the bibliography is equally old. What I do like about this book: good writing style. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 17. NEW GREEK CUISINE (HarperCollins, 2005, 184 pages, ISBN 0-00- 639456-6, $26.95 paper covers) is by Aristedes Pasparakis and Byron Ayanoglu. Pasparakis has opened, sold and closed scores of restaurants (in Toronto, Aristedes, Temporary Calamari Joint, and Ouzeri); he now consults in Athens on restaurant concept. Ayanoglu is a cookbook author, once in Toronto but now living in Montreal. They describe seven categories of Greek cooking: lemon-flavoured, cooked in wine, cooked in olive oil, flavoured with yoghurt, sweet and sour, et al. And at the same time, they are promoting healthy Greek cooking. Many of the dishes here can be done in 30 minutes or less, with one blender (or food processor) and two non-stick pans. No fat is used in the sautéing process, and only small amounts of olive oil are used to flavour sauces. New versions of classics are included plus modern foods. Chapters run through the meal, beginning with mezedes and dips, soups, salads, through to desserts. About 150 recipes plus a Greek larder section (filo dough, cheeses, quince, raki, olive oil, pine nuts, etc.) are complemented by a photo section. Audience and level of use: the curious, fans of Aristedes Some interesting or unusual recipes: skordalia garlic dip, kakavias fish soup, eggplant with figs on greens, bulgur lamb pilaf, pork and leeks on celery-lemon custard. What I don’t like about this book: no metric measurements or even a table of equivalents in a Canadian book? Shame. Mass distribution dictates that this book be the same production throughout North America. What I do like about this book: there are page references to recipes given in the photo section. I also have my doubts about not frying some foods: you’ll not get the same texture (e.g., croquettes) Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 18. ITALIAN VEGETABLES; delicious recipes for appetizers and sides (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-820-9, $19.95 hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a food writer and cooking school chef specializing in Italian cooking and cookbooks. The 29 preparations are only for the apps and accompaniments. Contents are for salads, legumes (peas/beans/lentils), roots and mushrooms, nightshades (tomato/eggplant), and squash. US measurements are used; there is a metric conversion chart at the end. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes: asparagus with parmesan and chopped eggs, fennel and leeks braised in cream and lemon, sautéed pumpkin with rosemary and balsamic, beet and wheat and arugula salad. What I don’t like about this book: too short. What I do like about this book: great layout and photos of finished platings Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 19. PICNICS; simple recipes for eating outdoors (Ryland Peters & Small, 2005, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-816-0, $19.95 hard covers) is from four UK food writers, principally Louise Pickford. The stress is on two principles: make it yourself and/or get it from a market (bread, cheeses, cold cuts, desserts). The emphasis in the 34 recipes is for “great ingredients simply prepared”; the style is for fresh tasting and room temperature foods that are easily portable. Contents covers salads, vegetables, breads and dips, meat and poultry, and sweets. US measurements are used; there is a metric conversion chart at the end. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chick pea and tomato and bell pepper salad, pan bagnat, mini-pork and apple pies, souvlaki with cracked wheat salad. What I don’t like about this book: there is no wine coverage, nor wine recommendations for accompanying beverages. Also, the book is short. What I do like about this book: good layout. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 20. COGNAC; the seductive saga of the world’s most coveted spirit (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 244 pages, ISBN 0-471-45944-5, $35.99 hard covers) is by Kyle Jarrard, a senior editor at the International Herald Tribune in Paris. He has written often on his in-laws’ family roots in Cognac. This is the first major book on cognac to come along in quite some time. The publisher claims that this is the first comprehensive history of Cognac, but what about Cyril Ray’s “Cognac” (1973) and a lot of other books only available in French. Jarrard begins in the 1500s with a history and then discussion of terroir, proceeding apace through distillers, wars and peace (peaces?). The focus is definitely on the cognac trade as he gives a behind the scenes look at Hennessy (number one in production), Remy Martin (number two), Courvoisier and Martell (both tied for number three). These top four houses control 74% of the market; the total market is about 110 million bottles, estimated at less than 2% of the total spirits sold around the world! Jarrard also looks at a prominent small house, Delamain, to see how it handles activities. He deals with “Napoleon Brandy”, phylloxera and rootstock from Texas (actually, Denison, Texas and Cognac, France are twinned cities), the various legal changes to appellations (VSOP, XO, etc.), the two world wars, the decline of Cognac consumption, and then the massive export market to Asia. There’s some interesting material about viticulture, viniculture, and marketing. Jarrard interviewed scores of people on a friendly basis with ease of access; he was almost one of them (remember his in-laws?). There are even some food notes for dishes that go with cognac, or are of the region. His few tasting notes, really only comments, come from the company personnel. There are black and white historical photographs, reproductions of labels, maps, and pictures of current people in the business. Audience and level of use: the committed cognac drinker, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Cognac is the fruit of an incredible set of circumstances: the gentle climate of southwest France that makes grape growing the natural thing to do, easy access via the Charente River to the Atlantic for shipping Cognac to points north in Europe or to ports half a world away, and the proximity of great oak forests out of which to fashion venerable barrels without which Cognac wouldn’t exist at all.” What I don’t like about this book: no real tasting notes. What I do like about this book: good bibliography, especially of the French books. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 21. PROFESSIONAL BAKING; fourth edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 701 pages, ISBN 0-471-46427-9, $93.99 hard covers) is by Wayne Gisslen, and features recipes from Le Cordon Bleu (Paris). It comes with a CD- ROM (ChefTec software) with over 750 recipes, and a Student Workbook (ISBN 0-471-47781-8, available separately). Cordon Bleu contributed 175 recipes with variations, and these are carefully indicated with a blue typeface. What’s new this time out is the material on artisan breads (natural fermentation, hand crafting), new information on wheat flours, new plating techniques for desserts, new colour photographs, and new equipment models. There is a recipe contents page which explores yeast doughs, quick breads, doughnuts and crepes, syrups, pies, tarts, cakes, decorating, cookies, custards, frozen desserts, fruits, chocolate and marzipan. Everything here in this book is clear, precise, non-nonsense, practical and methodical. Both US volume and metric measurements are given in side-by-side columns. The CD-ROM has all the recipes from the text, with options to modify, to scale, resize, to cost, to print, to invoice, to track costs, to produce shopping lists and purchase orders. Nutritional values have been pre-calculated, and as you change ingredients or quantities, they change. There is more tangential material about this book at www.wiley.com/go/gisslen Audience and level of use: cooking schools, restaurants, hotels, large hospitality establishment. Some interesting or unusual facts: The prevention of staling is important because baked goods lose quality rapidly (there is a whole section on this, with preventions). What I don’t like about this book: you cannot add the recipes on the CD-ROM to any existing ChefTec database on your computer…you’ve got to delete the other database first. What I do like about this book: there is an instructor guide and a student workbook. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 22. SO YOU WANT TO BE A CHEF? Your guide to culinary careers (John Wiley & Sons, 2006, i.e. 2005, 375 pages, ISBN 0-471-64691-1, $ paper covers) is by Lisa Brefere, Karen Drummond and Brad Barnes, all US authors and teachers in the cooking arena. It comes with a CD-ROM containing templates and worksheets, sample resumes and portfolios, forms and slides. Working in the hospitality area (some may say “arena”) is appealing to young people, and this book certainly shows options available for cooking. It has discussions on employment as chefs in restaurants, hotels, cruise liners, clubs, catering, and supermarkets. As well, there are chances in mass feeding (universities, schools, health centres, armed forces) plus related areas of research development, private and personal chefs, food writers, food stylists, food photographers, and public relations work. There is one paragraph on “celebrity chefs” (did you know that there actually is an employment category here?). For each type of chef or cook or employment, there are sub-sections on a day in the life, reality, pay, organizations, and job descriptions. Plus the book has another 100 pages on resume writing, job portfolios, contacting employers, interviewing, and career advancement. The appendix details some culinary professional organizations; 40 are listed, described, given addresses and websites and phone numbers. Audience and level of use: chef bound students, hospitality schools. What I don’t like about this book: too US based for Canadians, especially in the legal and addresses section. What I do like about this book: good advice. Quality/Price Ratio: unrated 23. THE COOK’S COMPANION (Robson Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 158 pages, ISBN 1-86105-772-5, $23.95 hard covers) is a miscellany about food, mostly weird and absurd. It’s been edited by Jo Swinnerton, one of the principals of “The Companion” series (there are also books on bird watching, movies, gardening, golfing, about 14 in all). It is loaded with hundreds of facts, quotes, anecdotes, histories, myths, hints and tips, trivia -— even rhyming cockney. And all crammed in with small typeface. Each page number (at the bottom of the page) is supported by a fact using that number. For example, on page 10, it says “10 cost in millions of pounds of UK organic potatoes sold in 2003”. It even has a bookmark ribbon. The bibliography is a hodge podge of books. Audience and level of use: foodies, the curious. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The first tin can opener was invented in 1855 – 45 years after the tin can was invented”….Makes you wonder, doesn’t it? What I don’t like about this book: for Canadians, it has too much of a British slant. The index is laughable (four columns for names and a few facts: why did they even bother?) What I do like about this book: very entertaining. It has the answers to the questions you have never thought to ask. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR APRIL 2005 ============================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINERIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA; rev. and updated edition (Whitecap, 2004, 375 pages, ISBN 1-55285-603-8, $22.95 paper covers) is by John Schreiner, a longtime BC wine writer. It first appeared in 1994, a decade ago. Then, it covered 40 wineries (2 of which never opened). Today, it covers 126 wineries (grape, apple, other fruit, and honey) with an indication of more in development. Schreiner speculates on what shaped the industry. He alludes to the Vancouver Playhouse festival, and then goes on to correctly identify the real shaper: the threat of competition from our free trade agreement with the US, which diminished our government-regulated preferred status. The same thing happened with the Ontario wine industry. Apart from a short history of BC wines in general, his book is a directory account of the wineries of BC. Each winery is alphabetically arranged, from Adora Estate through Winchester Cellars. The directory component gives addresses, contact data, hours and tours information. The text, mainly based on researched interviews with owners and winemakers, notes awards and recommended wines. While he has three types of recommendations (wine for special occasions, memorable wine to share with good friends, and well-made wine), he has no real tasting notes. Most of the TNs come out of the interviews with the biased winemaker or owner. Nevertheless, there is much good descriptive material about the wineries. There is a separate chapter at the end for eight new or pending wineries; this is a great idea to keep the book up-to-date as of publication. Note that many of these wines are not available in most of Canada. This book is a major contribution to Canadian wine knowledge. Audience and level of use: dedicated wine lovers, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: In 1978, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival began as a showcase for California wine, and then expanded to domestic and other imported wines, elevating the profile of the domestic wine industry in BC to a higher level of recognition. What I don’t like about this book: only 81 wineries are on the map inside the front cover – where are the other forty five or so? The table of grape varieties on page 11 has no heading; you’ll have to read about it within the text on page 12. Also, it is just a list with no figures. What I do like about this book: short introduction, more space for the winery listings. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. COOK LIKE A CHEF; techniques, tips and secrets from the professional kitchen to your (Whitecap, 2004, 264 pages, ISBN 1-55285-612-7, $34.95 paper covers) is by Chris Knight, the executive producer of the popular eponymous Food Network Canada series (its longest running show; over 185 were taped). The 200 recipes come from a variety of chefs who have appeared on the shows (Ned Bell, Michael Bonacini, Liz Manville, and six others). Thus, there is much variety here, and I certainly found more than a handful of recipes to store away. Ultimately, this is an upscale textbook, a cooking 101 to show you techniques and tools from the big boys. Its fourteen chapters cover the basic recipe foundations, soups, entrees, desserts. The emphasis, as with many of these books, is on fresh, local, seasonal, specialist stores, and best ingredients. Preparation levels are indicated (whether the recipe is easy or moderate, etc.), the recipes are all sourced by chef, and both metric and imperial measurements are given side by side. Audience and level of use: novices, cooking schools, followers of celebrity chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes: poached pear and gorgonzola salad, stovetop coq au vin, prosciutto-wrapped turkey breast with tangerine cranberry sauce, crown roast of lamb with mustard rub, potato confit en sous-vide, coeurs a la crème. What I don’t like about this book: there is some pretty rare stuff for beginners: veal kidneys in Calvados? I think not. What I do like about this book: common sense beginning – read the recipe from beginning to end (twice), temperature times, do a mise en place, etc. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 3. IN THE HEAT OF THE KITCHEN (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 244 pages, ISBN 0-7645-8834-6, $42.99 paper covers) is by British bad boy Gordon Ramsay, the only London chef to hold three Michelin stars. He also runs other eponymous restaurants, and has authored several cookbooks. He is currently on North American TV with “Hell’s Kitchen” (Fox). Roz Denny and Mark Sargeant have helped with this current book, which was originally published in the UK in 2003. It has been “Americanized” with US measurements. Ramsay’s book is essentially full of techniques, shortcuts and tips, a sort of primer to fine cooking, more than 100 recipes in all. There are also many fine photos illustrating these techniques and the finished platings. It does have a slight UK bent (e.g., smoked haddock), but this is okay for Canada. And it has both US and metric measurements in the recipes, so the home cook can choose which system to use. Audience and level of use: for followers of celebrity chefs, home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: lobster-potato-arugula salad, aromatic steamed cod, guinea hen with pomegranate, lamb crepinettes in lettuce, fondue of lettuce, pain perdu with roasted peaches. What I don’t like about this book: teeny tiny print used in the index makes it very difficult to read. What I do like about this book: his emphasis on always having sharp knives available. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 4. WINE BUYERS’ GUIDE 2005 (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. McArthur, 368 pages, ISBN 1-84533-090-0, $14.95 paper covers) is by the noted UK wine writer Robert Joseph. It is a guide based on the 2500 wines judged by over 500 experts at the annual International Wine Challenge (UK) which is run by Wine International magazine (www.wineint.com). The bulk of the book, about the 2500 gold-silver-bronze medal winners, is bracketed by an introduction to the basics (written by Joseph) and a list of UK stores which carry stock. The winners are all listed by country and region, award, and price – and not by style. The descriptions have been culled from tasting panel notes. There are more data at robertjoseph-onwine.com. The competition started in 1984, and in April 2004 (twentieth anniversary), there were 9000 wines entered for the 400 tasters to judge. Joseph has a section on the “best” wines, such as Champagne (Charles Heidsieck Brut 1989), Port (Taylor’s 40 Year Old Tawny), Sweet White (Inniskillin Oak Aged Vidal Icewine 2002), plus the best wines by country, grape, and so forth. All prices are in sterling. Audience and level of use: for the serious wine lover, although agents and suppliers in Canada can use the list to ensure that they derive marketing value or even import wines that are not currently listed by the LCBO. Some interesting or unusual facts: Expensive wines don’t enter competitions. What I don’t like about this book: for North America use, we don’t need a list of UK stores, nor do we need wine basics. There is no overarching index, so the book must be perused. What I do like about this book: pocket sized, cheap enough for the list and short notes alone. A great listing of wines that should/could be in the Canadian marketplace. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 5. KINKEAD’S COOKBOOK; recipes from Washington, D.C.’s premier seafood restaurant (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 278 pages, ISBN 1-58008-522-9, $57.95 hard covers) is by Bob Kinkead, an award-winning chef who opened Kinkead’s (Foggy Bottom) in 1993 to great acclaim (Gourmet, James Beard Award, etc.). All courses are covered, with details on shopping for the home. Most of the recipes are for seafood, but there are eight preps for lamb and game, as well as desserts and sides. And there are some wine tips, but no recommendations. Emphasis appears to be on locally available seafood and fish. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: restaurant chef book. Some interesting or unusual recipes: escalivada, shad roe with grits and ham, Portuguese fisherman stew with chorizo and Romesco sauce, mussels with grainy mustard and garlic cream, poached tilefish with cauliflower puree. What I don’t like about this book: no metric equivalent tables, no wine recommendations. What I do like about this book: extensive chapter on fish shopping for home preps. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 6. AUTHENTIC RECIPES FROM KOREA (Periplus Editions, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 112 pages, ISBN 0-7946-0288-6, $16.95 hard covers) has been put together by a team of three Korean writers and three photographer- food stylists. AND 7. EATING KOREAN; from barbecue to kimchi, recipes from my home (John Wiley & Sons, 2005, 259 pages, ISBN 0-7645-4078-5, $39.99 hard covers) is by Cecilia Hae Jin-Lee, a Korean-American award-winning food writer. “Authentic” shows the varied cuisine, with cultural notes and location photos. These are sixty recipes – for all courses -- from the Sorabol Restaurant in Shilla Hotel, Seoul. They are fairly upscale, but doable by North Americans. Prep and cooking times are indicated, as well as information on all the native ingredients. Both metric and US measurements are in the recipe, side by side, and there are US mail sources indicated (alas, nothing for Canada). “Eating” is more for the home cook, with some historical details but also a lot of family memoirs. With 100 recipes plus variations for all types of courses, Jin-Lee also covers (in 26 pages) special occasions and holidays. She has a section on special tools and implements, with an extensive and defining ingredients listing. There is also a guide to the Korean language and pronunciation. Unfortunately, the huge resource list for online and freestanding grocery stores applies to the US only. Audience and level of use: those interested in Korean cuisine. Some interesting or unusual recipes: “Authentic” has abalone rice porridge, fish and vegetable hotpots, fried kimchi rice with beef, and Korean Festive cakes. “Eating” has dough flake soup with potatoes, seafood pancakes, five meat. What I don’t like about this book: the black and white photos in “Eating” are too grey, and there are too many family shots. What I do like about this book: there is good photography in “Authentic”, but “Eating” has a better index, particularly the recipe list by Korean name, with page references, separately indexed. Quality/Price Ratio: I’d give the nod to “Authentic” because of its recipe/price ratio (89), but both books are fine in content. “Eating” gets 87. 8. SMALL-BATCH BAKING (Workman, 2004; distr. Thomas Allen, 452 pages, ISBN 0-7611-3035-7, $19.95 paper covers) is by Debby Maugans Nakos, a food writer living in Alabama. The basic premise here for the 225 recipes is the small yield: just about everything serves two or three. And baking includes cakes, pies, tarts, cobblers, cookies, biscuits, muffins, etc. Yeast and non-yeast. Her list of equipment is novel, since you’ll need small containers such as a 14 ounce soup can, a small loaf pan, a jumbo muffin tin for a pie. Small batches don’t take up much time or space. And you don’t feel like you have to eat it all at once. There is a section on holiday preps, should you be by yourself or with one other person. The instructions are all detailed. And there is a US/UK/metric conversion table. Audience and level of use: home baker and entertainer Some interesting or unusual recipes: chocolate birthday cake with double chocolate sour cream frosting, fig and hazelnut crisps, cornmeal shortcakes melba, cinnamon French toast pudding, cranberry orange oatmeal scones. What I don’t like about this book: well, you might not have some of the equipment. I don’t have any soup cans. In fact, I don’t have any cans at all, except tuna. I have a large container of scratch in my freezer room, as in cooking from scratch… What I do like about this book: the usually great Workman graphics do nicely with recipe books, especially the large print, Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 9. THE COOK’S ESSENTIAL KITCHEN DICTIONARY; a complete culinary resource (Robert Rose, 2004, 413 pages, ISBN 0-7788-0098-9, $19.95 paper covers) is by Jacques L. Rolland, an experienced food expert. The book has some food history, etymology, anecdotes, and cultural notes. There are over 4,000 definitions; this is an alphabetical listing for food names, beverage names, recipe titles, cooking terms and techniques, two columns to a page. It includes UK, US, French, Italian and other languages. Ancillary matter includes lists of cheeses and their origins, and descriptions of pasta. There are food quotations and anecdotes (mostly humourous) plus drawings of veggies. Some typical entries: luganega is a Northern Italian pork sausage similar to kielbasa; the history of the fork covers two columns. Fortune cookies were either created in 1916 by a noodle manufacturer, or they were invented by a Japanese restaurateur after 1895. There are cross- references to additional entries (these are in bold face), and there are plenty of “see” references. Audience and level of use: reference use, libraries, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: There are 2500 different varieties of rice. What I don’t like about this book: these are just one person’s selection (I didn’t see any other names or any criteria for selection). Some may be incomplete or misleading, such as the entry for Cornish pasty which does not give the order of the food inside the dough. What I do like about this book: seems thorough. The occasional sidebar boxes will give lists (types of coffee beans, sugar, beef cuts, types of beer, chili pepper varieties). Quality/Price Ratio: 94 (bargain price). 10. DIABETES & HEART HEALTHY COOKBOOK (American Heart Association and American Diabetes Association, 2004; distr. McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 218 pages, ISBN 1-58-040-180-5, $24.95 paper covers) is a joint publication from the ADA-AHA. AND 11. HEALTHY CALENDAR DIABETIC COOKING (American Diabetes Association, 2004; distr. McGraw-Hill Ryerson, 445 pages, ISBN 1-58040-160-0, $28.95 paper covers) is by Lara Rondinelli, RD, and Jennifer Bucko, a chef and journalist. “Heart Healthy” has been endorsed by both the AHA and ADA, for cardiovascular disease ranks as number one on the list of diabetes- related complications. The 160 preps here are low-fat and/or low-carb, covering appetizers to desserts (all courses). Each is laid out with nutritional counters (calories, fats, cholesterol, sodium, carbs, protein) plus food exchanges and substitutions. There are some sample menus, such as a week of planned meals (three a day plus two snacks). “Calendar” has January through December day-by-day meal plans with both dietician and chef tips. The daily menus come with weekly grocery lists, so you only need to buy what’s listed. The 340 recipes are easy, elegant, with serving sizes, prep times, exchanges, and nutritional counts clearly listed. For both books, though, you’ll have to remember that exercise is also needed, and consumption of alcohol must be scaled back. Audience and level of use: diabetics, caterers who do this planning, sensible eaters. Some interesting or unusual recipes: from “Heart Healthy”: roasted cumin snapper and fresh orange salsa, stuffed mushrooms with ham and vegetables, tilapia with dill and paprika, slow-cooker Mediterranean pot roast. From “Calendar”: tortellini soup, peanut-crusted cod, banana split cake, seafood risotto, roasted vegetable panini. What I don’t like about these books: recipes are indexed by title only (and by course), not by ingredient. What I do like about these books: the type is large, basic dishes are covered, portion sizes are realistic. Quality/Price Ratio: you’ll get more recipes in the “Calendar” (88 points) than in the “Heart Healthy” (85 points). 12. LE CORDON BLEU QUICK & EASY (Thunder Bay Press, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 384 pages, ISBN 1-59223-198-5, $54.95 hard covers) is by Jeni Wright and Le Cordon Bleu Chefs. It was first published by Cassell Illustrated in the UK, and is a companion to “Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook”. Le Cordon Bleu has 11 schools around the world; there is one in Ottawa. Eight chapters here cover starters to desserts plus the basic recipes and weekend entertaining. This is, by and large, a step-by-step guide to lighter cooking, to meet mainly everyday meals. Each recipe has prep times, cooking times, chef tips and variations. There is also a slightly British orientation to the recipe selection. Audience and level of use: beginners, textbook collectors, Le Cordon Bleu students, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: layered vegetable terrine, scallops with tomato and saffron, raspberry fool, fish kabobs with lime and rosemary, chicken jalfrezi. What I don’t like about this book: while there is a selection of 13 menus for celebrations, there are no page references to the dishes – you’ll have to look them up in the index. What I do like about this book: two pages of metric conversion tables, and a ribbon bookmark. Quality/Price Ratio: 13. VINTAGE SPIRITS AND FORGOTTEN COCKTAILS; from the alamagoozlum cocktail to the zombie, 80 rediscovered recipes and the stories behind them (Quarry Books, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 1-59253-068-0, $22.95 paper covers) is by Ted Haigh, long time Internet expert on cocktails and partner in cocktaildb.com. Before the “cocktail”, there were plenty of mixed drinks: the julep, the fizz, the sling, the nog, the scaffas, flips, punches, smashes, cobblers, etc. The “cocktail” as a drink was simpler than any of these; it was a liquor (with sugar, bitters, liqueur) that was stirred or shaken with ice and strained into a stemmed glass with a fruit peel garnish. Haigh has 80 recipes, from the early 19th century, Prohibition Era, and post- War II. There are some great illustrations, anecdotes, and cocktail history here, along with the recipes for oldies such as Golden Dawn, Fog-Cutter, Mother-in-Law, Widow’s Kiss, and Monkey Gland. He has a bibliography of source materials, and a resource guide for all of the syrups and little-known commercial liqueurs of the past. Audience and level of use: the curious drinker. Some interesting or unusual facts: The vodka martini of James Bond began as “The Vesper” in Casino Royale (1955), named after another double agent! What I don’t like about this book: too short. More please. What I do like about this book: there are 17 recipes of modern standards for comparison. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 14. THE SPIAGGIA COOKBOOK; eleganza Italiana in cucina (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4511-7, $56 hard covers) is by Tony and Cathy Mantuano. He’s the chef and partner for the Chicago resto; she’s the former manager but now a food writer and consultant. The 100 recipes here have been drawn from the past twenty years of Spiaggia’s operation. It is arranged by course (antipasti, primi, secondi, formaggi, dolci). You’ll need a larder/pantry, as well as specialized foods such as pork caul and foie gras. No hardship for me, but these products must be freshly available in your geographic area. There is a section here to emphasize Italian flavours, with a selection of oils, sauces, pestos and dressings. The book employs US measurements and a US resources list, with one place in Italy as a source for Italian utensils and cookware. Audience and level of use: chef personality book, restaurant book, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: roasted boar chops with buckwheat polenta and braised pork belly, Roman-style roast lamb with fingerlings, mascarpone torte with espresso sauce, barded partridge breast, mint gelato. What I don’t like about this book: only three pages on cheese, and no wine recommendations. There are also too many gratuitous photos, and not enough of food preps or platings. What I do like about this book: calls for a 25 pound lamb, quartered (give them points for moxie). There is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 15. THE FOOD OF ITALY; a journey for food lovers (Whitecap, 2005, 296 pages, ISBN 1-55285-677-1, $29.95 paper covers) is a book package, with recipes by Sophie Braimbridge and Jo Glynn, and photography by Chris L.Jones. It was originally published in hardcover in 2002, and has now found its way to Canada. AND 16 THE FOOD OF INDIA; a journey for food lovers (Whitecap, 2005, 296 pages, ISBN 1-55285-678-X, $29.95 paper covers) is a book package, with recipes by Priya Wickramasinghe and Carol Selva Rajah, and photography by Jason Lowe and Alan Benson. It too was originally published in 2002. Both books give the photographers as the first, main entry, and the photos are indeed good, especially at this price level. The books are oversized (12 inches by 9 inches) which allows for some quite nice spreads. Both have glossaries to food, cooking and equipment. Both have about 200 recipes, and both use Imperial and metric measurements for weights (only Imperial for volume). The Italian book covers all the regions, with some extra emphasis on the cheesemakers of Naples and the vineyards of Tuscany. There is café culture lore, stories behind pizzas and pastas, items on salamis and prosciutto. Each recipe is photographed as it is made. The Indian book is arranged by types of food. It covers the beaches of Mumbai for street food, the rossogolla makers of Kolkatu, the tea gardens of Assam and Munnar, the sweets of Delhi, Moghul dishes, seafood, breads and dals. Audience and level of use: travelers, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes: char grilled asparagus, pizza rustica, butter chicken (murgh makhni), Bengali fish (rohu kalia), and tamatar shorba. What I don’t like about these books: oversized, unwieldy in the kitchen. What I do like about these books: substitution guides. Quality/Price Ratio: 89 apiece. 17. THE NEW DETOX DIET; the complete guide for lifelong vitality with recipes, menus, & detox plans (Celestial Arts, 2004, 264 pages, ISBN 1- 58761-184-8, $24.95 paper covers) is by Elson M. Haas, M.D. who specializes in detoxification (he’s written seven other books on health and nutrition). He is assisted by Daniella Chace, C.N. a nutritionist. This is a second edition, with about 50 more recipes and additional detox data. Both authors present fairly comprehensive plans for detoxifying, with minimal side effects. “The first principle for improving your health is to eliminate destructive habits”. Thus, no caffeine, alcohol, or sugar. You can replace these with drinking water, walking or swimming, and deep breathing. If it sounds rigourous, just remember that it is not forever. A toxic lifestyle creates fatigue, coldness, hair loss, dry skin, and weight gain. Each chapter provides healing programs for one type of addiction, such as drug use, alcohol, etc. Each involves a variety of fasting and juices, detox diets, transitional diets, and supplements. Most food is cooked by steaming, roasting, and water sauté; most recipes are very simple. Audience and level of use: people in need of detoxification. Some interesting or unusual facts: the key to maintaining metabolic balance is to maximize nutrition and to eliminate toxins. What I don’t like about this book: you might want to seek a second opinion or another source. Try Google. What I do like about this book: sound, basic advice for beginning the detox period. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 18. TRIED AND TRUE ALL SEASON GRILLING & BBQ; top 200 recipes (All Recipes, 2004; distr. Ten Speed Press, 287 pages, ISBN 0-9711723-6-6, $24.95 paper covers) is by the members of allrecipes.com; these are the top choices for BBQ and grilling. The publisher has also done about a half-dozen other similarly fashioned cookbooks as well. The website has been functioning since 1997, and has additional information from and for this particular book (e.g., you can put in the page number to obtain nutritional data, to scale ingredient results, to email the recipe to a friend, to create a shopping list, to convert US measurements to metric). Try shop.allrecipes.com/tnt/grillingbbq/page.asp. The 200 relatively uncomplicated recipes cover burgers, ribs (10 pork rib recipes), steaks, chicken and wings, seafood, rubs and sauces (these are very important), sides-breads-desserts. There are simple techniques, ingredients, and implements: all have been tested and commented on by the Internet community of home cooks. Important information also includes a discussion on gas (control) versus charcoal (smoke). Some recipes here will require a smoker. Audience and level of use: novices. Some interesting or unusual recipes: orange pork chops, Korean BBQ chicken marinade, Greek sonzoukaklia, grilled Portobello and mozzarella, figs oozing with goat cheese. What I don’t like about this book: the pulled pork recipe is under pork roast, subcategory North Carolina, but not under “pulled”. What I do like about this book: grilling charts for specific cuts of meat. There are also no illustrations of finished plating, but who needs them for this food? Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 19. THE GRASSFED GOURMET COOKBOOK; healthy cooking and good living with pasture-raised foods (Eating Fresh Publications, 2004; distr. Ten Speed Press, 267 pages, ISBN 0-9673670-2-6, $31.95 paper covers) is by Shannon Hayes who holds a Ph.D. (Cornell) in sustainable agriculture and community development. And she co-owns a pastured farm in New York State. This is sort of “eating in the wild” since sustainable agriculture for animals means being raised on pasture. The 125 recipes spotlight the flavours and unique character of the food. Locally, in the GTA, Beretta Organic Farms has grassfed beef, and it is wonderful. Covered by Hayes are beef, bison, venison, veal, lamb, goat, pork, poultry, rabbits and cheese. She has profiles of six pasture-based farmers, and some material on health benefits (organic food higher in omerga-3 fatty acids) and environmental-economic benefits. Different cooking techniques are needed because of the lower fat content, and because the flavour is better, there is less need for spicing. She has a section on rubs and pastes. Recipes indicate “minimum preparation”, “in a hurry”, “on a budget”, “kid friendly”, “showcase”. Her source list includes five farmers in Canada. Audience and level of use: socially concerned meat eaters. Some interesting or unusual recipes: classic pulled pork, Bulgogi, stuffed breast of veal, BBQ pork ribs, fresh ham, lemon chicken wings. What I don’t like about this book: index is spotty. I looked for pulled pork, and finally found it under “classic pulled pork”, and not under “pulled”. What gives? What I do like about this book: there is an annotated bibliography and endnotes for the more curious reader. She also has a good discussion on animal welfare benefits. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 20. PROSCIUTTO PANCETTA SALAME (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 112 pages, ISBN 1-58008-617-9, $25.95 hard covers) is by Pamela Sheldon Johns, a former chef turned food writer who now lives on a farm in central Italy. This type of food must be becoming popular, since this is the second such slim book on the market in one year (“Prosciutto” was published by the Wine Appreciation Guild; see my reviews for last year). Actually, the term “salumi” refers to all Italian-made cured meats, some of which have an EU-guaranteed DOP. The 40 recipes here cover antipasti, panini, salads, and some mains. There is good introductory material, with a description of types and regions of salumi (including their prep, curing, and smoking) and prosciutto, with just a tiny bit on pancetta and sausage. She has some profiles of Italian artisans, which is a nice touch, along with some good pictures of the cuts. With information on current USDA regulations, the book is a US and Italian resource guide to artisan cured meats, supplies and products. Her bibliography is mostly to Italian meat books. Audience and level of use: cooking schools, reference collections. Some interesting or unusual recipes: classic affetutti, gnocco fritto, crostini, fava bean-pancetta-yellow pepper coup, onion-sausage-apple tart. What I don’t like about this book: too short a book, lots more could have been said. What I do like about this book: she has a few useful recipes for homemade pancetta (my wife makes her own). Quality/Price Ratio: 86. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR MARCH 2005 ============================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ WINE SPECTATOR’S ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BUYING WINE; eighth edition (Running Press, 2004; distr. by HarperCollins, 2004, 1004 pages, ISBN 0-7624- 1977-6, $42.50 paper covers) is a jumbo book, containing ratings and tasting notes for more than 11,000 wines from around the world, all reviewed in blind tastings and published in that magazine from May 15, 2003 through April 30, 2004. The magazine itself began publishing in 1976; this book is – by now – an annual publication. It is good for finding new wines from unfamiliar regions. Eight major tasters, all identified with a picture-profile, worked their way through the wine tastings held in different parts of the world. The arrangement of the book is by region, and each area includes wines which are available in the US marketplace on a national retail level. Eventually they find their way to Canada. Argentina and Austria are here, but not Canada. Each entry has a name of wine and a grape variety, the estimated retail price in US dollars, an estimate of when the wine will be at its best, the quantities produced, a common 100-point scale, and initials of the reviewer. Other material here includes a wealth of vintage charts, vineyard maps, accounts and analyses of recent vintages in the major wine regions, the top wines reviewed in the previous year, 150 smart buys (value for dollar) with notes on 50 top producers. The 200-page “Alphabetical Guide” at the back is the book’s index; it is arranged by producer and includes the name of the wine, its price, and its score. And that’s all most people want. Most of the book’s data can be found at the website (www.winespectator.com) but accessible only one wine at a time. The magazine itself is mostly adverts, profiles of wineries or winemakers, and superfluous articles on restaurants and travel. The tasting notes are the main thing about Wine Spectator (some would say TNs are the ONLY thing). Audience and level of use: wine lovers who like tasting notes, wine stores, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Daring collectors expand their hobby by keeping tabs on new wines and vintages from old-guard producers in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Italy, Spain, and a watchful eye on up-and-coming producers from the New World. What I don’t like about this book: The “Alphabetical Guide” does not point to a page reference for further details about the wine. What I do like about this book: opens with a chapter on wine buying strategies (ten top tips). Quality/Price Ratio: 94. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ THE NEW BEST RECIPE (America’s Test Kitchen, 2004; distr. by HarperCollins, 1028 pages, ISBN 0-936184744, $49.99 hard covers) has been put together by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine. The first edition came out in 1999; this second edition has a slight title change (“new”) and has doubled in size, from 500 to 1000 recipes. Cook’s Illustrated is a magazine of techniques and perfection, with many line drawings illustrating how kitchen work is done. The company also has a TV cooking show and some book series, including a whole slew of Best Recipe books covering beef, baking, vegetables and Italian food. More details on the company and on their products can be found at both www.cooksillustrated.com and www.americastestkitchen.com . Their motto is: “we test recipes over and over again so that you don’t have to”. A noble quest for the perfect recipe, for the best version of a dish. The 22 chapters cover most foods as the editors search for the best recipe to express (for example) rib-eye steaks, roast chicken, brownies, etc. 800 illustrations – mostly line drawings – show the best way to do things (carving, beating, folding, frosting, grilling, and the like). There is also material on equipment purchasing. This is pretty basic stuff, like cooking school lessons, for each prep is annotated with the process of how they arrived at the recipe. Techniques new to this edition include grilling, stir-frying, and baking. Measurements are American, with a metric conversion chart. Audience and level of use: basic handbook, good reference work, libraries, cooking schools. Some interesting recipes: creamy sweet pea soup, spaghetti alla carbonara, simple roast chicken, individual Yorkshire puddings, breakfast strata, coconut layer cake. What I don’t like about this book: it is unavoidably unwieldy, for the 1028 pages are oversized. The section on pan-seared premium steaks didn’t mention that there is a lot of smoke (open windows, doors, fans vented to outside – all are needed for home use). What I do like about this book: basic preps are detailed. It’s simply a case of knowing the rules before you break the rules. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 1. LAST CHANCE TO EAT; the fate of taste in a fast food world (McClelland & Stewart, 2004, 384 pages, ISBN 0-7710-5653-2, $34.99 hard covers) is by Gina Mallet, a former Toronto drama critic who now writes about food for many diverse publications. Here she does a part-food memoir, part- food history, part-food recipe approach. She remembers the days, when as a young girl, she could eat reasonably well, free of additives and genetic modification and the like. Today, food is in the news, and it is usually bad: diet problems, additives, GMs, nutritional guidelines which change, politics, obesity, cancer–related scares, vitamins (both overuse and deficiencies). Sections deal with eggs, raw- milk cheese such as brie, beef, fish, and the kitchen garden with peas, tomatoes and apples. Mallet had strong memories of food, and bemoans the absence of the hearth and Vesta in today’s communities and homes. Of particular interest to Mallet is the food chain, which involves cannibalism for farmed animals and fish(mad cows, scarpie), organic gardening, wholesaling and transportation and eating outofseason, and perplexing flip-flops about food (remember when eggs were bad for you? when margarine was good for you? when Olestra was the promised land for fatties?). She presents one astounding conclusion: McDonald’s is doing better than the government in regulating animal cruelty and meat safety. She loves the UK’s Harrod’s food halls (as it used to be), and the visions of Escoffier. Her book brings a European sensibility to North America. Recipes are from a wide variety of sources, but are only one part of this book. She has a bibliography for further reading, and it contains the basic food history and culture texts. Audience and level of use: professional food people, concerned activists, foodies everywhere, Some interesting or unusual facts: “When I started to search for taste in food today, I imagined I would talk to organic growers, fishermen, and farmhouse cheesemakers. Instead, I ended up talking mostly to scientists, who more and more are determining what we eat.” (p.365). What I don’t like about this book: most enlightened people should already know this stuff, and also should have already read most of the books used as sources (I own most of them myself). The book is mostly a summary at this point. What are totally new are her food memories. What I do like about this book: there is Canadian content, and if it helps to spread the message that we are not eating well and should remember our history, then this book is needed. It’d be nice to have a Pierre Berton for food history! Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 2. CLEANING & STAIN REMOVAL FOR DUMMIES (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 330 pages, ISBN 0-7645-7029-3, $24.99 paper covers) is by Gill Chilton, a cleaning expert for a lot of magazines (including “Family Circle”) and author of the book “Home Basics”. Stains plague restaurants, and this handy softbound (a little larger than the convenient pocketsize) is certainly useful. It is a boon in that it tells you how to clean anything off everything (blood, vomit, beer, avocado, coffee, chocolate, et al). Your establishment will look cleaner and smell better if you can get rid of the nasty-looking splotches that abound. A quick-thinking staff will also do wonders IF they know what to do, and this book (in true dummy fashion) is explicit on every point. It deals with the basics of cleaning, working with walls and floors, furniture polishing, windows and frames, decks and patios, even vehicles (delivery vans too). Special situations are covered as well, such as hosting parties or overnight guests. There are daily and weekly lists of what to do so that you can keep on top of a cleaning routine. Chilton even has information about how to put together a stain removal kit – so you can have it at the ready for volatile diners. Between the A – Z stain removal guide and the index, you can find guidance for just about everything. To augment this book, you can do a Google search for specific problems; the web seems to have an answer for every predicament. Audience and level of use: homeowners, restaurant and bar personnel. Some interesting or unusual facts: blot up spills using white cloths only. What I don’t like about this book: it needs more material on how to deal with larger gatherings. What I do like about this book: while it is meant for the home, the chapters and sections on stain removal and cleaning up in the kitchen are pretty good for restaurants. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 3. THE COFFEE HOUSE; a cultural history (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 304 pages, ISBN 0-297-84319-2, $39.95 hardbound) is by Markman Ellis, a professor of eighteenth-century literature at the University of London and author of many books and articles on this time period. Here he begins with a basic history or both coffee and the idea of a gathering place. Of course, coffee is the wine of Islam. But it took until 1511 for the first coffee house to open in Mecca, with students, professors, lawyers, and judges sipping and discoursing. Coffee’s arrival in Europe coincided with the modern historical period. The first coffeehouse in Christendom was in 1652-1654 (historians are unsure of the exact date) in London. Ellis’ book is a social history – there are no real business archives available. Sam Pepys diary provides good accounts of what actually transpired in coffee house in the UK. Within 20 years, every major urban area in the UK had a coffee house. The first houses on the continent were in places which supported a sizable British contingent of merchants: Amsterdam in 1665, Bremen in 1669, Hambourg in 1670, Paris in 1671, Venice in 1683, and Vienna in 1685. The speed of the spread of coffee houses in Europe can be likened to the speed of the modern day home penetration of the DVD! Thankfully, the word “Starbucks” does appear in this book until page 246 (although the logo is in a picture facing p179). Ellis has a few colour and black and white illustrations on glossy paper, to show us what the older coffee houses looked like. Audience and level of use: historians, food culture vultures. Some interesting or unusual facts: caffeine is the most widely used drug in the world, exceeding all other common drugs including nicotine and alcohol. The value of the coffee traded on international commodity markets is surpassed only by oil. What I don’t like about this book: being academic in tone, the book is driven by those who are especially interested in coffee houses, and not by the casual reader. I have no problem with this, but the index tends to bunch up common nouns under the terms of “coffee-shop”, “coffee- men”, and “coffee-women What I do like about this book: there are extensive endnotes and index, for after all, this is a scholarly book. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 4. IN A CUBAN KITCHEN (Running Press, 2004; distr. HarperCollins, 176 pages, ISBN 0-7624-1541-X, $34.95 hard covers) is by Alex Garcia, a Cuban-born New York chef practicing Nuevo Latino (e.g. Babalu). He has also appeared on the Food Network. and 5. THREE GUYS FROM MIAMI COOK CUBAN (Gibbs Smith, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 234 pages, ISBN 1-58685-433-X, $39.95 hard covers) is by Glenn Lindgren, Raul Musibay, and Jorge Castillo, all being brothers- in-law and associated with the Food Network. Both books address a need. Garcia’s is more upscale, and he actually grew up in Cuba. His book fits in with “Nuevo Latino” food; the culture is a blend of Spanish, Portuguese, African, French, Arabic and Oriental cuisines. He has over 100 recipes, all courses (tapas, soups, salads, rice dishes, veggies, desserts, rum cocktails and coffees). There is ancillary material on native ingredients, reference guides and a glossary. A lot of his cooking is slow food, as indicated in the brief history. Garcia has a whole chapter on sauces and marinades. He deals with croquettes and plantain slices and lots of limes. But then, that’s Cuban cuisine. Most dishes are photographed in an upscale family style presentation. Measurements are US by volume, and the index is Spanish- English (as is Three Guys). Three Guys’ book is more down homey, with simple and spicy food under Miami influences. The 100 recipes here embrace Cuban family favourites and re-interpretations. Topics include drinks, appetizers, salads, soups, eggs, mains, etc., with tips and advice. Their glossary varies from Garcia’s. For example, Garcia says boniato is a Cuban sweet potato with white flesh, while Three Guys are silent on the colour. This book has US mail order sources, especially the Cuban Food Market in Miami, and US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: travelers, those looking for something rare and exotic to cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes: of course there are inevitable duplications in recipes. But Garcia has pigeon pea rice, baby shark creole style, salt cod salad, okra stew, slow-cooked Cuban ham with sherry vinegar. For Three Guys, it is Cuban-style paella, garlic soup, avocado and pineapple salad, fried pork chunks, three milks cake, and natilla Cuban pudding. What I don’t like about this book: neither book has a metric table of equivalents. Three Guys has too many gratuitous photos of Three Guys. What I do like about this book: Three Guys has a large print for their recipes. Garcia’s book is more unique. Quality/Price Ratio: Garcia gets a 90; Three Guys get 85. 6. MARCELLA SAYS…Italian cooking wisdom from the legendary teacher’s master classes, with 120 of her irresistible new recipes (HarperCollins, 2004, 390 pages, ISBN 0-06-620967-6, $42.50 hard covers) is by Marcella Hazan, who has written five other Italian cookbooks. She began with her first cooking classes in the early 1960s. The 120 recipes here are derived from her current classes, and the chapters follow a syllabus. There are lots of “dos and don’ts” and tips, as one would expect from a school teacher: such things as overuse of garlic, or what happens when one skips the blanching process. She develops the concept of “insaporire”, developing flavours through blanching, heating, meat stews, risottos. The term means “making tasty”, a sort-of unami feel. She also proposes “arrosolare” (to cook in hot fat until it acquires a warm hue). There are four pages on this. The first 75 pages (titled “At Masterclass” cover her approaches to cooking, with details of ingredients and techniques and procedures. The publisher uses large print for the recipes, and a good layout with the steps highlighted. US volume measurements and online US sources for food products, with phone numbers. Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers, cooking school students. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Jerusalem artichoke and asparagus soup, bottarga pasta sauce, chicken Asti style with pancetta, bell peppers and anchovies, pork shoulder stew with black-eyed peas, nectarine tart. What I don’t like about this book: no metric table of equivalents, a few shabby and superfluous black and white photos of Hazan and her classes. Also, there are no wine recommendations. What I do like about this book: she has lots of ahead of time prep notes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 7. BEANS; more than 200 delicious, wholesome recipes from around the world (Running Press, 2004; distr. HarperCollins, 375 pages, ISBN 0- 7624-1931-8, $27.95 paper covers) is by Aliza Green, a cookbook author, food writer, chef, and food stylist. All courses are covered, from appetizers to desserts. All the recipes are sourced; most are from chefs. The stress is on comprehensiveness and the nature of international cuisine. She has basic data on about 100 bean varieties. These are the first fifty and the last thirty pages of the book. The legume families are divided into Old World and New World. For each bean, she gives cooking methods and a list of recipes. This book is not entirely meat-free, but the vegetarian option is clearly labeled just under the name header in each recipe. US volume measurements are used, but there are metric equivalent tables. Other useful parts include colour photos, a glossary, a US source list, a bibliography, and an extensive index. Audience and level of use: hospitality schools, restaurants, single ingredient book. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Cuban black bean soup with sofrito and smoked turkey, Queen Victoria’s favorite green pea soup with buttered croutons, Sardinian style cranberry beans with fennel and savoy cabbage, Chinese firecracker-jacks (an ab fab creation!), What I don’t like about this book: in her list of recipes by bean there are no page references – you’ll have to use the index to find the page needed. What I do like about this book: she told me what rice beans were (I could only find ONE site via Google). Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 8. WINES OF THE WORLD (DK Publishing, 2004, 672 pages, ISBN 0-7566- 0517-2, $40 soft covers) is one of the Eyewitness Companion guide series of essential handbooks. It is the work of 20 people, mostly wine writers (three have MWs) with a British orientation. The book touches the bases for everything, beginning with history, wine culture, wine growers of the world. The reference section has data on how to read a wine label, how to taste, to buy, to store, to serve, along with a glossary and bibliography. The pages on how to use the book are nicely illustrated with drawn instructions on the 13 areas of winegrowing regions. Each of these has maps, pictures, a description, the main areas of viticulture, the leading producers, and regional wine tours (with more maps, itineraries, local attractions). Story boxes and thematic features come in every chapter. For Canada, they have a couple of paragraphs which neatly summarize us (p.620) as Ontario, BC, cold, ice wine, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, Inniskillin and Burrowing Owl, plus some websites. The book’s vintage charts go through 2003. There are also historical photographs, plus the obligatory production facts and figures. Audience and level of use: beginner, newbie Some interesting or unusual facts: The New World winery of Haras de Pirque in Chile resembles (from the air) a horseshoe. What I don’t like about this book: it’s a physically heavy book since every leaf has some clay for the colour. Wine production and wine consumption figures by country are for 1999 and 2001, a bit old. Few TNs. What I do like about this book: there is a nice section on soil terms (schist, gneiss, alluvial, etc.). Lots of pictures and colour, quite attractive. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 9. THE CHEESE COMPANION; a connoisseur’s guide (Running Press, 2004; distr. HarperCollins, 160 pages, ISBN 0-7624-1956-3, $26.95 paper covers) is by Judy Ridgway (who wrote the first edition, a comprehensive hard cover guide) and Sara Hill (who updated this second edition). Part One is a basic introduction to the history of cheese and how it is made. Part Two covers 106 varieties. Each is profiled by name, origin, characteristics, variations, and serving selections. Each entry indicates the type of milk used in production, the cheese’s pungency, fat content, and matching wines. Both farmhouse cheese and co-operative cheese are covered. Neither Quebec nor any other part of Canada has any cheese profiled. There are some great photos here, as well as 33 simple and standard recipes, mostly native to the country where the cheese is from. These recipes are all indexed under “R” for recipes. Audience and level of use: cheese lovers, most restaurants offering a cheese course, cooking schools, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The United States is now the largest producer of cheese in the world…Canada is not a big cheese- eating or cheese-producing country, though its excellent cheddar does find its way round the world” What I don’t like about this book: only 106 cheeses are covered. What I do like about this book: it is not pocket-sized but it is light enough to carry about. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 10. TRU; a cookbook from the legendary Chicago restaurant (Random House, 2004, 304 pages, ISBN 1-4000-6061-3, $50 hard covers) is by Rick Tramonto (executive chef at Tru) with Gale Gand (pastry chef at Tru) and Mary Goodbody (food writer and editor). Gand and Tramonto were once married to each other, but they still work together. Tramonto had previously co-authored “Amuse-Bouche”, and some more of those types of recipes are here. Indeed 16 of the 75 recipes are for amuses. Just about all of the recipes come from the resto, so the result is that the book emphasizes the exquisite, the original and the inventive sides of food. All courses are presented; these are good examples of what constitutes a “tasting menu”. Step-by-step instructions lead you on your way, and there are plenty of variations and riffs. Most main recipes seem to call for separate smaller recipes, to create a sauce or something similar. Sixty stunning photos give good support to the text. He gives an extensive source list for hard-to-find ingredients and equipment; unfortunately for us, these are all American sources. Check out www.trurestaurant.com Audience and level of use: people who follow personality chefs or particular restaurants. Some interesting or unusual recipes: mosaic of seafood with saffron foam (a deconstructed bouillabaisse), braised 31-vegetable ragout with chervil butter (separately cooked!), oozy quail egg ravioli with porcini mushrooms, braised veal tongue and artichoke napoleon with Asian pear and fennel pollen. What I don’t like about this book: no metric conversion charts for the US measurements. What I do like about this book: there are good and long wine recommendations for each of the main dishes. An extensive index. He also has a juicing chart (to find what is need to produces ¾ cup of juice, e.g., ¾ pound of fennel, 2 pounds of apricots). Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 11. VEGETARIAN SUPERCOOK (Hamlyn, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 0-600-61188-4, $29.95 hard covers) is by Rose Elliot, MBE, and author of over 50 vegetarian cookbooks in the UK. Wow. For this book, she did a poll on basic needs for vegetarians: what would they like help with? Most said they needed help with dinner parties and entertaining and celebrations. They also needed help with al fresco and BBQ, and even brunches. So Elliot covers all these areas. These international dishes are arranged by topical chapters, including dieters (lo-cal, lo-carb), celebrations, alfresco. The recipes range from the complicated and complex to the quick (under 30 minutes). There is even some material here on recipe creation. Each of the 100 recipes has prep times, cooking times, service for 4 or 6. About a third are naturally vegan (and labeled as such). More can be converted. Such modified recipes are annotated on p.189. Most recipes have a photo, but some of the pictures are not identified. Also, my wife did not like how the ingredients were listed; they are not in tabular form. I actually like a block format, for it forces you to read the recipe first. There is a glossary and measurements are by US volume. Audience and level of use: vegetarians, restaurants looking for another angle. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Stilton pate with roasted baby beets, mushroom coulibiac, quinoa and red grape salad, chicken-caraway soup, whiskey cream banoffi, falafel with lemon sauce. What I don’t like about this book: I couldn’t find a metric table of equivalents. What I do like about this book: there is a listing of suggested vegan alternatives, and the idea of entertaining is pretty good. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 12. THE LOW-CARB GOURMET; recipes for the new lifestyle (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 160 pages, ISBN 1-58008-630-6. $29.95 paper covers) is by Brigit Binns, a multiple cookbook author who is currently editing and writing for “LowCarb Living” magazine. This is the upscale, sophisticated food of international and fusion cuisine (European and Oriental). The seventy recipes cover vegetables, low-fat, lean protein and eggs, for all courses. Since two-thirds of North Americans are overweight, something dramatic needs to happen for people to lose weight and get healthy. Almost 20% of the US has tried the Atkins Diet, which, along with the South Beach Diet, is the leading regimen. The Zone Diet has also bounced back, since it was tested out as being the regimen that had the best weight loss with the highest retention of loss. She advocates an improvisational approach to the Zone Diet. Each of Binns’ recipes has the nutritional information counts for calories, carbohydrates, fibre and fats. US volume measurements are used, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: the serious foodie who wants to lose weight. Some interesting or unusual recipes: garlic and green pea vichyssoise, haricots frites with tarragon sauce, flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce, two-week preserved lemons, dried fig and cognac tapenade, rabbit with saffron and fennel ragout and whole-wheat linguine. What I don’t like about this book: nutritional counts are in a light green ink, and difficult to read. She uses artificial sweeteners (what’s wrong with stevia?) What I do like about this book: good stuff to cook for entertaining friends who rigidly adhere to a low-carb regime and must be catered to (in a manner of speaking). Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 13. THE OLIVE HARVEST COOKBOOK; olive oil lore and recipes from the McEvoy Ranch (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 180 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4162-6, $50 hard covers) is by Gerald Gass, executive chef at the McEvoy Ranch, with Jacqueline Mallorca, a food writer and author. Here are 70 recipes from an olive farm which makes organic extra-virgin olive oil; it is reputed to be California’s best. The ranch is also on the tours and tastings routes, for it has a kitchen garden, sheep (but there are only two lamb recipes here, both for chops), olive groves, lavender and honey. The endorsements for this book, which is mainly for home cooked style food, are stunning: good blurbs from both Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters. The book does have a nicely explicated chapter on olive growing in California. The food preps here follow a full range, from soups to desserts. US measurements are used, but there is a metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: Cal-Ital fans, cooking schools, memento of tour. Some interesting or unusual recipes: mixed winter squash soup with honey and sage, fresh tuna salad with dry-cured black olives, salt cod with potatoes leeks and saffron, roast sturgeon with cardoon and chervil sauce, rabbit two ways, and a fig walnut tart, What I don’t like about this book: there are a few gratuitous photos which contribute nothing. This is essentially a book to buy at the ranch while one is on tour. What I do like about this book: good history of a ranch and of a company, plus material on olive oil in California. Quality/Price Ratio: 80. 14. A COOK’S GUIDE TO ASIAN VEGETABLES (Periplus, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 208 pages, ISBN 0-7946-0078-6, $29.95 paper covers) is by Wendy Hutton, who has written widely on the food of Southeast Asia. 170 vegetables are identified here, with illustrations based on watercolours or photos. The book is arranged by family, such as beans, cabbages, mushrooms, onions, herbs, seaweeds, etc. She also has separate chapters for dried and preserved veggies and herbs. For each veggie she gives cultural notes, a description of appearance, its nutritional content, flavour, selection, storage, preparation, Asian herbal and medicinal remedies. At the end of each section she puts out about a dozen recipes. This is largely a vegetarian cookbook; even the meat recipes can be modified to be meat-free. Both metric and Imperial measurements are used in the recipe, side by side. There are few desserts, though the sweet Malaysian bubor cha cha calls for both yam and sweet potato. Hutton also has a recipe ingredient list and a glossary to oriental foods. Audience and level of use: encyclopedic, libraries and schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Adzuki bean pancakes (sweet), pea shoots with black mushrooms, spiced Indian cauliflower, Thai hot-sour green papaya salad, Chinese garlic chive pancakes. What I don’t like about this book: no mention of rice beans (they are part of an Asian rice grouping). What I do like about this book: index has bold-face type for recipe titles, which makes them easier to find. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 15. SIMPLY ELEGANT SOUP (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 99 pages, ISBN 1-58008- 484-2, $39.95 hard covers) is by George Morrone, a four star San Francisco chef and current owner of that city’s Tartare restaurant. John Harrisson is the focusing food writer who has co-authored more than 20 cookbooks. Morrone’s mentor is the late Jean-Louis Palladin, and it shows. This book was originally titled and promoted as “Simply Soup”. At least somebody caught this, for indeed the book has 25 sterling preparations for ELEGANT soups, mostly simple to craft. Most are a variation of cream of {vegetable} soup. He does reinterpret the classics such as vichyssoise, clam chowder, and soupe de poisson. US measurements are used. Audience and level of use: soup lovers, those looking for a posh but small food book as a gift. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chilled tricolor heritage tomato soup with avocado-tomato garnish (his signature dish), duet of chilled beet soups with gazpacho salad garnish, modern French onion soup with gruyere tuiles. What I don’t like about this book: only 25 recipes, no tables of metric equivalencies. What I do like about this book: single course cookbook, really elegant soups for my favourite course. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 16. FOODS OF THE AMERICAS; native recipes and traditions (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 224 pages, ISBN 1-58008-259-9, $59.95 hard covers) is by Fernando and Marlene Divina and the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian. Fernando Divina has been an executive chef; together, the Divinas have a restaurant consultation firm and they have both authored articles about food of the American west. These 140 recipes are all modern; they use native ingredients from both North and South America Although there is not much for Canada, nuts are mentioned (Algonquin), as well as sun-dried fish (Huron), pit cookery (Iroquois), and raw fish (Inuit). The authors have about two dozen food photos plus an equal number of reproductions from the Smithsonian collections. There are nine illustrated short essays by native writers about indigenous food traditions. Measurements are American, as are the mail order sources (addresses and websites). There is an ingredient glossary, and a bibliography for further reading. Audience and level of use: food historians, culture vultures, restaurants looking for an angle. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Great Lakes pike with maple glaze, empanadas with beef picadillo, wild mustard seed and allium crackers, juniper roast quail with pinon nut buckskin cakes and pan gravy, Chilean-style avocado and shrimp salad. What I don’t like about this book: mo table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: a good looking, upscale book, also meant for sale at the Smithsonian museum. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 17. ALFRED PORTALE SIMPLE PLEASURES; home cooking from the Gotham Bar and Grill’s acclaimed chef (William Morrow, 2004, 262 pages, ISBN 0-06- 053502-4, $49.95 hard covers) has been co-authored by Andrew Friedman who also did “Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook”. This book was an IACP/Julia Child Cookbook Award winner. Portale has also picked up a few James Beard Foundation prizes. This is the 20th anniversary of the bar and grill, and thus the book becomes a celebration. There are 125 recipes, covering all courses, and these are home versions of the restaurant’s classics. His idea here is to have you pick a main course and then build around it with selections from sections on starters, soups, pasta/risotto, accompaniments and sides, and desserts (most desserts are fruit-driven). He has a chapter on modern pantry maintenance, with international ingredients (chipotles, five-spice powder, pancetta, harissa, walnut oil). Some equipment that you’ll need includes the microplane grater and the Japanese mandolin. He lists variations/suggestions and pairings, with page references. He also has some photos of techniques. US volume measurements only. Audience and level of use: celebrity chef collectors, home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: beet salad with feta orange and mint, frisee salad, chicken braised with morels, pan roasted squab with butter-braised savoy cabbage, cranberry-poached pears with ginger and tea infusion, eggnog panna cotta. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine recommendations, and there is no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: he suggests many variations plus dish augmentations with flavour building. Also, some variations have page references added. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 18. NIGHTLY SPECIALS; 125 contemporary American recipes for spontaneous, creative cooking at home (William Morrow, 2004, 306 pages, ISBN 0-06-055562-9, $49.95 hard covers) is by Michael Lomonaco, executive chef at both 21 and Windows on the World. He is also seen on television. Andrew Friedman is a cookbook collaborator for the New York community. The premise here is to reduce cooking times at home to a minimum while still remaining spontaneous. The improvisational aspect is emphasized. To do this, one needs to use seasonal foods, leftover management, have a pantry and larder, and do pickups on the way home (fresh fish, microgreens, etc.). Lomonaco covers starters, salads, entrees, sides and desserts, with some recipes in a “Floribbean-style” mix of Florida and Caribbean flavours. Throughout, he gives plenty of variations for his 125 recipes. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: weekend gourmets, followers of chefs and TV shows. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pear-cranberry upside down cake, Asian noodles in hacked chile lobster, pepper-crusted tuna with green olive sauce, Moroccan lamb stew, cool roasted beets with mint. What I don’t like about this book: you’ll need a larder and some planning. Also, there is no table of metric equivalents. What I do like about this book: simple, loosely improvised dishes (especially the variations) Quality/Price Ratio: 86. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR FEBRUARY 2005 ================================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ****** 1. THE HOME WINE CELLAR; a complete guide to design and construction (Running Press, 2004; distr. HarperCollins, 176 pages, ISBN 0-7624-2084-7, $49.95 hard covers) is by Perry Sims, a contractor who has been specializing in wine cellar design and construction for over ten years. This is the latest hot trend in home renos; it is number two after the kitchen gets made over. His book is a full- illustrated, step-by-step guide to designing and building one’s own wine cellar, both for small and large projects. There is even material on purchased and free-standing closets, for these have to be maintained. Along the way, Sims discusses racking, organization styles, and techniques for temperature and humidity controls. Throughout, there are 270 (mostly) colour photos for 17 DIY projects, ranging from the modest to the expensive. But before beginning, Sims asks readers to consider their goals, such as storage considerations for the aging process (not enough room? Lots of room? Bin systems? Wine racking solutions? Wine appliances?). Some of his erstwhile projects include converting a bookcase (I’ve done this: it works well), building wooden racks and diamonds, a wardrobe closet cellar, interior-wall vapour barriers, full blown cellars with tasting rooms, etc. Audience and level of use: wine collectors in for the long haul. Some interesting or unusual facts: A wardrobe closet cellar is the best bet (wholly contained, air conditioning derived from the house, no exterior walls) for 200-250 bottles in a typical closet space (walk-ins will hold more bottles). It is very easy to do, and the wife will love getting a new free-standing wardrobe for herself. What I don’t like about this book: it needs more detail for software inventory systems (pretty sketchy in this book). Most of Chapter Seven on the wine market is superfluous: if you don’t know how to buy, open, decant, and taste wines, then why do you have a cellar at all?). What I do like about this book: very complete book, plans are explicit. Quality/Price Ratio: 93, * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ****** 2. FROM TAPAS TO MEZE; small plates from the Mediterranean (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 264 pages, ISBN 1-58008-586-5, $34.95 paper covers) is by Joanne Weir, cooking teacher, TV show chef, and food magazine writer. This is a revised edition of a 1994 originally published by Crown, and it had been developed while she was cooking at Chez Panisse. She has a whopping 160 recipes for first courses and appetizers, reminiscent of many bars and street food from around the Mediterranean. Call them what you want: tapas, hors d’oeuvre, antipasti, mezze, mukabalatt. The basic ingredients are olive oil, garlic, tomato, cheese, herbs, fruit (not in every dish, of course). Other basics to have on hand would include mayonnaise (different styles), mascarpone, pizza dough, toasted nuts. She has arranged her book by chapters for each region, with a short history of the apps in each area. There are about 26 or 27 preps for each of Spain, France, Italy, Greece, the Levant, and North Africa. The recipes are extensively written, usually one per page, and each recipe has an indigenous name as well as an English language name. She uses US volume measurements in her service for six or eight, as one can make a meal out of the little dishes. Audience and level of use: adventuresome, entertainers, cooking schools, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes: shredded cod salad with tomatoes and peppers and onions, caramelized onion and goat cheese soufflé, grilled bread with sweet-sour chicken livers, lamb fennel and orange pie, baked stuffed eggplant, couscous salad. What I don’t like about this book: unfortunately, the foreign terms for each dish is not indexed – the index is English language only (who made that bonehead decision?) What I do like about this book: techniques section is quite good (how to smoke eggplant, trim artichokes, and revive saffron). Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 3. THE ULTIMATE DAL COOKBOOK (Penguin Books, 2004, 112 pages, ISBN 0- 14-303180-5, $18 paper covers) is by Mona Verma, a cookbook writer and operator of a successful cooking school. Apparently, no Indian meal is complete without dal (also spelled daal). Dal may be served as a main course or as a side, a chutney, soup or salad (even a sweet), at breakfast through to dinner. The 110 recipes here accompany rice and roti, or they are one dish dals and veggies, or they are meat and lentil combos, or snacks and sweets. There are 15 colour photos of legumes such as pigeon peas, lentils, chick peas, cow peas. The recipes are displayed one or two to a page, with brief – but easy – instructions. Imperial measurements are used, and there is a glossary of Hindi and English terms. Audience and level of use: adventuresome, Indian food devotees. Some interesting or unusual recipes: roasted Bengal grum and mint chutney, mixed lentils and spinach canapés, sprouted green beans with curd curry, green bean and fig sweet. What I don’t like about this book: there is no index but there is an expanded table of contents. What I do like about this book: virtually vegetarian – there are only one egg, three seafood, and one meat recipe. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 4. SOUTHERN SPICE; delicious vegetarian recipes from south India (Penguin Books, 2004, 134 pages, ISBN 0-67-005770-3, $35 hard covers) is by Chandra Padmanabhan, a cook specializing in vegetarian foods and author of “Dakshin” (a basic recipe book for South India). This current book can be thought of as volume two. Here are 100 recipes for the states of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. All courses are covered, including sides, accompaniments, rices, sweets and relishes. Imperial measurements are used. There are pages of suggested menus and buffet items, all with page references. The prep times for each dish include fermentation, soaking, mise en place, and cooking. Audience and level of use: devoted lovers of Indian foods Some interesting or unusual recipes: lacy rice pancakes, stir-fried okra with sesame seeds, curried eggplant, pigeon pea khichchi, steamed green bean dumplings. What I don’t like about this book: there is no index, but there is an expanded table of contents. What I do like about this book: there is a glossary of English/Hindi/Tamil terms. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 5. CLASSIC FOOD OF NORTHERN ITALY (Pavilion, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 240 pages, ISBN 1-86205-652-8, $29.95 paper covers) is by Anna Del Conte, award-winning author of many Italian cookbooks. This current title was first published in 1995. Here, it is a slightly revised edition. 150 recipes have been derived from restaurants and inns of the ten regions, which extend as far south as Tuscany, Umbria and Marche. There are very few pasta recipes, no sun-dried tomatoes, no arugula, and few eggplants. She has separate chapters for each region, and the recipes are in order of the service (antipasti through cookies) usually for four people. Measurements are in Imperial/US/metric for each ingredient in each recipe. Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes: risotto al gorgonzola, skate with anchovy sauce, gratin of swiss chard stalks, farinata, lamb cutlets with black olives. What I don’t like about this book: there was no indication of how the book was revised (maybe by including US measurements?) What I do like about this book: Del Conte recommends using the mezzaluna knife. Also, vegetarian recipes are marked with a “V”. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 6. GASTRONOMY OF ITALY (Pavilion, 2004; distr. Raincoast, 416 pages, ISBN 1-86205-662-5, $80 hard covers) is by Anna Del Conte, award- winning author of many Italian cookbooks. It was initially published in 1986 as a slimmer book, and has undergone large revision and updating through its 200 recipes. The emphasis is on trattoria food, one-pot food, family food. The book is also, of course, a lively history of Italian cuisine, being a tour through 16 regions of Italian specialties and wines, concluding with a glossary of terms and techniques. There are over 100 photos and reproductions of an additional 130 historical artworks. Recipes are arranged by course, and feature the classic dishes. There is a dictionary, “A – Z of Ingredients” (700 of them) which covers 150 pages, and includes charming reproductions of labels of food packages and advertisements. If the price scares you off, there is also “The Concise Gastronomy of Italy” (ISBN 1-86205-658-7, $34.95 paper covers) which has no illustrations but all of the 200 recipes and reference material. Audience and level of use: art food book collectors, a companion book for lovers of Italian food. Some interesting or unusual recipes: stewed shin of pork with potatoes, panocotto, panzanella, butternut squash gnocchi, soft nougat. What I don’t like about this book: a very heavy book for kitchen usage. What I do like about this book: there is a short survey of Italian wines by B. Roncarati, with label reproductions fore the best known brands. And all of the recipes have Imperial/US/metric measurements side-by-side. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 7. THE WINES OF RIOJA (Mitchell Beazley, 2004, 280 pages, ISBN 1-84000- 940-3, $39.95 hard covers) is by John Radford, an expert, writer, consultant, and teacher on Spanish wines. He wrote the annual survey of Spanish wine and vineyards for the Spanish Commercial Office, 1989- 2001. This is the first major book on Rioja (the region by itself) in about two decades (Duijker’s was the latest in 1989). Radford covers 450 producers and their wines. The bulk of the book is an enlarged directory, which begins with the important bodegas (names, addresses, websites, sales figures, grape varieties, principal wines, ratings for wines, and some slight tasting notes). Later in the book there is a complete listing of Rioja wineries, but only with names, addresses, email, and phone numbers. The first seventy pages deal with history, geography, some of the personalities in the trade, wine styles, and many opinions garnered from interviews and surveys (on bureaucratic inflexibility and complacency, whether to add cabernet sauvignon or not to the Rioja blend, problems of overproduction, and the triangle of estates-bodegas-growers which are full of individuals). Audience and level of use: Rioja lovers, wine readers, wine schools, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: A producer had been offered 2.3 Euros a bottle ex-cellars by a major UK multiple which wanted to hit a particular price-point. What did he do? He presented samples which matched the price, and the buyer did the deal. Result? That particular chain’s “bargain” own-brand Rioja was “made down” to meet the price. It has more press-wine, less freshness, less fruit than a similar wine from the same bodega made in Spain. It doesn’t convey any of the real magic that is the nature of Rioja. (p.xi) What I don’t like about this book: illustrated with only one sketch map of the region. I was also expecting more TNs. What I do like about this book: details on the key changes to the wine laws of Rioja which were updated in 2003. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 8. FEAST; food that celebrates life (Alfred A. Knopf Canada, 2004, 472 pages, ISBN 0-676-97412-0, $55 hard covers) is by Nigella Lawson, one of the hottest cookbook authors around (Cookbook Goddess, Nigella Bites, Forever Summer) and a major food writer-contributor to the New York Times. Her book emphasizes the hedonistic pleasures of celebratory food, through family get-togethers, public and religious holidays, and major events. There is a Sardinian Easter, an Unhappy Hour (food for a funeral: comfort food for a wake), Meatless Feasts, Kid Stuff, Venetian food – 200 recipes plus variations, and 120 colour photos. The chapter on Christmas and New Years takes 120 (!) pages and covers leftovers as well. She expounds on principles for readers to create their own unique celebrations. Lots of information is packed into this book, which means that there are small margins and the text approaches the book’s gutters. She even has four recipes using pomegranates. The recipes in this book are mostly metric, but she often mixes Imperial and metric together (which is a gastronomic no-no). Audience and level of use: fans of Lawson, those seeking a good celebration menu book. Some interesting or unusual recipes: allspice gravy, beetroot purees, rudolph pie, green beans in herbed yogurt, bread-sauced flavoured potato gratin. What I don’t like about this book: the sources of supply are all UK, small print is used for recipe instructions, What I do like about this book: there is a bibliography, the index to ingredients has bold-face, and she is, after all, a good writer, Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 9. ULTIMATE WINE TASTING KIT; the official 100-point wine tasting system from the editors of Wine Spectator (Running Press, 2004; distr. HarperCollins, ISBN 0-7624-1978-4, $56.95) is a great little package for party givers. It was formerly known as “Complete Wine Tasting Kit”. It comes with three paperback books and four sets of bags, tags, and pads. “Quick Guide to Wine Tasting” is for party and event tastings, giving all the basics for presentations and setups. “Essentials of Wine” is a 240-page book by Harvey Steiman, and it covers all the major grape varieties, regions and taste components, along with food-wine pairings. There is a 66 page “Pocket Guide to Wine”, which has vintage charts, and is meant for carrying around to stores and restaurants. It has good notes on how to taste wines. There are useful hang tags for glasses and stemware and bottles (in your cellar). The tasting and scoring pads can be duplicated after they have been exhausted, and the bottle bags can be replenished with any brown bags. There is also a current vintage chart and a tasting checklist. Audience and level of use: meant for at-home blind tastings. Some interesting or unusual facts: Always drink a better wine and sacrifice food matching. Always pair food and wine with similar weights. What I don’t like about this kit: the book materials need to be updated regularly. What I do like about this kit: its resources are renewable. Currently, it is good for 25 different wine tastings. The kit takes a lot of guesswork out of setting up a tasting. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 10. BRUCE AIDELL’S COMPLETE BOOK OF PORK; a guide to buying, storing, and cooking the world’s favorite meat (HarperCollins, 2004, 338 pages, ISBN 0-06-050895-7, $42.50 hard covers) is by the founder of Aidell’s Sausage Company and author of nine previous cookbooks. The 160 recipes were developed by Lisa Weiss, international in scope. With beef prices currently sky high in the US because of restrictions on Canadian cattle imports, pork also becomes the “other” RED meat! He begins with a description of cuts, moving on to home curing and drying your own charcuterie, and making your own lard. He has temperature charts for grilling, roasting, and braising. All meals and courses are covered, except for sweets. For each dish there is a Master Recipe followed by variations. The level of depth is noted by instructions on what type of salt to use. There is a concluding section on sources of supply (all US except for one in Quebec), and this is interesting for its arrangement by cuts, by breed, by treatment (organic), by small family farms, plus sources for processed foods (country hams, sausages, sausage-making suppliers, smokers, lard). US measurements, but no table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: completists. Some interesting or unusual recipes: fennel-brined roast pork loin, Thai seafood and pork dumplings, Indonesian pork meat soup, pork skewers with pancetta-wrapped figs, pate de campagne. What I don’t like about this book: the run-on instructions detract. Sodium nitrates are used, but these can be avoided in most cases if you are careful (e.g., home-made pancetta) or freeze the raw pork. What I do like about this book: nice large print, good index. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 11. POMEGRANATES (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 112 pages, ISBN 1-58008-631-4, $21.95 paper covers) is by Ann Kleinberg, an Israeli food writer for the Jerusalem Post. This is the latest trendy fruit in restaurants. Its health benefits (it is an anti-oxidant) are well-known; its tart and refreshing juice is just like cranberry juice. So it goes beyond merely garnish and colour. When it is served to you in a restaurant, you are supposed to eat it. The seeds are edible, if chewy. Kleinberg in this slim book runs through a brief history and culture of the pomegranate, and then follows this with the prep materials (how to select, store and open, deseeding and juicing). The sixty recipes roam all courses, from apps to desserts and drinks. Traditional dishes are highlighted, but with a strong Middle East influence reflecting the pomegranate’s Persian origins. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: chefs, cooking schools, collectors of single ingredient cookbooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pomegranate guacamole, drunken figs with roquefort in pomegranate syrup, salmon gravlax with pomegranate balsamic dressing, raspberry and pomegranate fool. What I don’t like about this book: no real mention of grenadine syrup, a common bar ingredient. What I do like about this book: clever little book, unique ingredient. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 12. PORT AND THE DOURO; fully revised and updated (Mitchell Beazley, 2004, 399 pages, ISBN 1-84000-943-8, $39.95 hard covers) is by Richard Mayson, UK expert and author on Portuguese wines. This book was first issued in 1999 by Faber & Faber, and after five years (and a new publisher) it was time to take a look at the massive changes in Portuguese viti-viniculture. This fat book was completely updated, bringing forward the basic history and commentary on the world of Port and its range of styles. There is an analysis of the major vineyards and producers, plus vintage assessments back to 1896. The bulk of the book is a directory of top quintas with names, addresses, email, phone numbers, tasting notes. There is also a brief description and directory of the top table wines of the Douro, where Port is made: Niepoort, Barca Velha, etc. There are three sketch maps plus two figures on vine cultivation and vinification. At the back, the book concludes with a listing of the marketing and regulating associations, some interesting production and trade statistics, and the vintage Port declarations since 1960 for each quinta. There is also a bibliography for further reading and a glossary of both technical terms and Port terms. Audience and level of use: Port collectors, wine readers, reference users. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The opportunity to rewrite, revise and update a book that was first published in 1999 impressed upon me just how rapid and profound transformations have been. There are innovations everywhere; in the vineyards, in the wineries and in the institutions which regulate and govern the port and Douro wine trade.” (p.2 of preface) What I don’t like about this book: it doesn’t really make much sense to throw in a chapter on table wines from the Douro (35 pages in total) which received a DOC in 1979. And speaking of throwing in, why are there 22 black and white illustrations which do absolutely nothing to the book or to Port? What I do like about this book: there are good tables of Port grape varieties and classifications. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 13. BAREFOOT IN PARIS; easy French food you can make at home (Clarkson Potter, 2004; distr. Random House, ISBN 1-4000-4935-0, 240 pages, $50 hard covers) is by Ina Garten, a Food Network celebrity cook who had owned a restaurant called “Barefoot Contessa”. This is her fourth such book exploiting that term. Most of the material here concerns “bistro” food of lunches, soups, salads, vegetables, mains, and desserts. There are 81 recipes in all. Throughout, there is a feeling that this is streamlined cuisine for the busy person, although this is not explicitly stated. She also puts forward material on table decorations and wines. There are conversion charts for metric/US/Imperial measurements. And the book concludes with a four page directory of her favourite places in Paris (addresses, descriptions). For menus, visit barefootcontessa.com. Audience and level of use: celebrity chef lovers, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pissaladiere, lentil sausage soup, fennel salad, chicken with morels, meringues chantilly. What I don’t like about this book: too many superfluous photos of still life. What I do like about this book: there are two indexes, one alphabetical and one by course. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 14. THE PANERA BREAD COOKBOOK; breadmaking essentials and recipes from America’s favorite bakery-café (Clarkson Potter, 2004; distr.Random House, 254 pages, ISBN 1-4000-8041-X, $26.95 paper covers) has recipes by Ward Bradshaw and Joel Cammett of the successful US establishment. The book commences with a guide to baking your own artisan breads, and then goes on to relate 120 recipes for using such breads in sandwiches, soups, salads, bread puddings, crumbs, etc. Some of the recipes are from the chain’s menus. Most of the classics are here, including pain bagnat (nicoise salad on bread) and various panini. The basic steps are highlighted, such as making the starter, mixing the dough, resting, shaping, proofing and scoring, and baking – all illustrated with line drawings. Most flours are wheat (yeast and sourdoughs) and rye flours. There are Imperial/US/metric conversion charts. But obviously one doesn’t need to bake these breads: the reader can merely follow the recipes which use bread (and this can be bought). Audience and level of use: bakers Some interesting or unusual recipes: bread-vegetable wheat bread, garlic olive wheat bread, Mediterranean veggie sandwich, Tuscan chicken sandwich, bacon turkey, asiago roast beef. What I don’t like about this book: we’ve seen it before, especially with Ace Bakery’s cookbook. What I do like about this book: the authors emphasize baker’s percentages and scaling the ingredients by weight. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 15. MATT KRAMER’S NEW CALIFORNIA WINE; making sense of Napa Valley, Sonoma, Central Coast and beyond (Running Press, 2004; distr. by HarperCollins, 400 pages, ISBN 0-7624-1964-4, $34.95 hard covers) is by the well-known columnist for the Wine Spectator. He has a series of books dealing with the wine regions (Making Sense of Wine, Making Sense of Burgundy, and others to follow). This current book was originally published in 1992. It is an omnium-gatherum of the wine scene in California: the who, what, where, when, and why, with some emphasis on the past ten years. There have been a lot of changes, and Kramer itemizes them – there is now developing the concept of terroir; other regions beyond Napa and Sonoma have come forward; there are cult cabernets; trellising has changed, as have rootstock and clone knowledge; the spectre of phylloxera (but he has only a footnoted mention of Pierce’s disease) has meant over $1 billion in replantings; the acreages of cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir have doubled (merlot has quintupled, chardonnay is 40% more, syrah is 32 times more!). Kramer moves through the regions, describing the idiosyncratic character of each. He thus covers Mendocino (but not Amador or Lake), Monterey, San Benito, Paso Roble, Edna Valley, Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz Mountains, Sierra Foothills. Unfortunately, the book was published just before all the recent happenings at Mondavi, and indeed, does not really cover consolidation in the industry. The book concludes with an extremely valuable vineyard registry of 30 pages containing names currently appearing on wine labels. For each vineyard, he gives the AVA, acreage, elevation, when planted, what planted, owner. Audience and level of use: wine readers, those who seek more about California wine, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Now, more than ever, it’s really all about vineyards. Because of that, a disproportionate amount of attention [in this book] is given to wineries that grow their own grapes. These are the wineries that can deliver consistency.” (p.9) and at p.35: “First introduced in California in the early 1970s, drip irrigation expanded the commercial frontier of fine wines…suddenly became potentially profitable.” What I don’t like about this book: the bibliography is the same as for the previous edition – there are no entries beyond 1991!! The index mostly covers only proper names, and not subjects (e.g., there is an entry for phylloxera but not for Pierce’s disease). What I do like about this book: the vineyard registry. Also, he has a well-written elegant style. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 16. TEACH YOURSELF TAI CHI (Teach Yourself Books, 2004; distr. by McGraw Hill Ryerson, 170 pages, ISBN 0-07-143977-3, $16.95 paper covers) is by Robert Parry, active in the study of Eastern systems of exercise and philosophy for over 30 years. It was first published in 1994 by Hodder Headlines. The “Teach Yourself” series has been going for over 60 years, and it has grown to some 750 titles (most are still in print). It was the original “dummy” type book, but without the attitude. These are the basic principles of tai chi, with step-by-step instructions for the “short yang form”. Illustrations are line drawings (with foot positions), and the book is slim enough to be completely portable. It is terrific for hospitality workers who need to reduce job stress, since it can be done close to the kitchen. The basic two minute form is the easiest, and of course it can be repeated continuously as time allows. The other forms are also included. Health and food aspects are discussed. Audience and level of use: beginner exerciser, the one who hates to move about. Some interesting or unusual facts: The yin and yang of life can be found through your own rhythms. What I don’t like about this book: it does not cover all of the movements – for that you’ll need a video. What I do like about this book: it is portable, one of the few thus available. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 17. LIDIA’S FAMILY TABLE (Alfred A. Knopf, 2004, 420 pages, ISBN 1- 4000-4035-3, $50 hard covers) is by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, multiple restaurant owner, cookbook author, and TV chef (co-written with David Nussbaum). The 200 recipes here focus on family cooking, such as soups which are – or can be – whole meals in themselves. Her new PBS series aired in January 2005, and this book accompanies the series. It is arranged from appetizers to desserts, following a basic discussion on the pantry and the equipment needed. As a home cook book, there are plenty of pasta and polenta recipes (although I would have preferred more of the latter). The layout and use of colour are very effective, as are the excellent photos of assembling and presentation. Service is for six or so (that’s the basic family number?). US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: TV cooks, Italian food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: whipped salt cod, egg-battered zucchini roll-ups, white bean and dried bread soup, pear and pecorino ravioli, polenta layer cake with butter gorgonzola filling. What I don’t like about this book: it is a heavy book, it will need some support in the kitchen. Also, there are no metric conversion charts. What I do like about this book: extensive and detailed index, with Italian names indexed too. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 18. THE FIRST-TIME COOK (Collins, 2004, 240 pages, ISBN 0-00-719186-3, $39.95 hard covers) is by Sophie Grigson, an award-winning UK food magazine writer and multiple-cookbook author. It begins at the beginning, by asking: why cook? The obvious answer is: health benefits! Here are the basics with plenty of detailed advice and step-by-step photos. Variations are given too, such as five preps for omelettes. She tells how to read a recipe, how to taste, gives cooking terms, weights and measures. There is an extensive section on soups (they’re easy to prepare), eggs, pasta and rice, burgers and chops, along with compound butters and marinades for flavour. For example, with soup recipes, she itemizes the base plus the main ingredients, the seasonings, the liquids, and the dressing up (or garnish) for each. She believes in easy starters with non-cooked foods, such as Italian antipasti or Provencal hors d’oeuvre or Spanish chacinas plates or Middle Eastern/Greek mezze. Stir-frying is the next step, for the adventuresome. Audience and level of use: beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes: grilled goat cheese salad, tuna and bean salad, lamb burger, ginger-glazed carrots, simple chocolate mousse. What I don’t like about this book: technique section is too short, photos are too small. What I do like about this book: nicely written without talking down. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 19. OZ CLARKE’S INTRODUCING WINE; a complete guide for the modern drinker (Harcourt, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 0-15- 603023-3, $22.95 paper covers) is by the well-known alternative to Hugh Johnson. He has his own parallel atlas, encyclopedia, annual wine guide, all produced with enough variations to set him apart from Johnson. This introductory text (first published in 2000) is the basic of the basics: wine flavours are described with essential vocabulary, the basics of opening and serving, buying wine, wine in restaurants, wine regions of the world, etc. Lots of illustrations, tips and advice. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual facts: it is actually a pretty good gift book for that friend of yours who is beginning to like wine. What I don’t like about this book: too many pix of Oz. You’ll never see Hugh Johnson like this… What I do like about this book: a lot is really packed in Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 20. THE GOOD COOK; 70 essential techniques, 250 step-by-step photographs, 350 easy recipes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda, 304 pages, ISBN 1-58479-328-7, $60 hard covers) is by Anne Willan, founder of La Varenne Cooking School in Paris. With an arrangement by technique and ingredient, this is a basic encyclopedia to French-derived classic dishes, a sort of consumer version of her “La Varenne Pratique” which is her book for the professionals. Ten chapters cover essential flavours and sauces, eggs, meats, vegetables, pasta and rice, and pastry. There are 350 recipes plus 250 colour photos which illustrate the techniques. Recipes follow the work procedures. Topics include chiffonade herbs, peel a tomato, open oysters, roll and tie a roast, make a white sauce, sharpen a knife, using a mandoline. There is a metric conversion chart for the US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: beginners who want to learn the French classics, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: warm herb potato salad, fragrant lentil puree, veal escalopes, coq au vin, risotto Milanese, Provencal vegetable tart. What I don’t like about this book: this is also a physically heavy book, difficult to carry about the kitchen. What I do like about this book: bibliography of other good basic cookbooks, actually listed as “main books consulted”. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR JANUARY, 2005 ================================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!! 1. SURREAL GOURMET BITES; showstoppers and conversation starters (Whitecap Books, 2004, 132 pages, ISBN 1-55285-587-2, $19.95 paper covers) is by Bob Blumer, host of a Food Network show with the same title as the book. This is his fourth book. He believes in artistic and whimsical preps for party food, to show people that you care (e.g., Chinese snow cones; chicken salads with ginger vinaigrette in baked wonton cones). Each of the 46 recipes has ideas on how to simplify the dish (this is a plus), the skill level needed, the prep times, beverage pairings, and music to cook by. These dishes are best as one or two appetizers in a meal, or as several party foods; most can be made ahead. Meats and veggies and desserts are the main topics. There is a table of equivalents, but US measurements are used throughout (the book was published in the US). Audience and level of use: TV cooks, celebrity chef lovers, intermediate level. Some interesting or unusual recipes: bacon-wrapped parmesan-stuffed dates, cumin-crusted ahi tuna with avocado relish, cinnamon-habanero chicken drumettes, white pepper and ginger biscuits. What I don’t like about this book: he has eight menus, but no page references to the recipes, necessitating lookups in the index. What I do like about this book: nice close-up photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 2. THE DONUT BOOK (Storey Publishing, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 184 pages, ISBN 1-58017-548-1, $21.95 paper covers) is by Sally Levitt Steinberg, granddaughter of the inventor of the doughnut-making machine. It was originally published in 1987 by Knopf, with only 18 recipes, some slight black and white illustrations, and no index (horrors!). Seventeen years later, she now has 28 recipes, lots of colour reproductions on glossy pages of historical adverts, photos, etc., an index (yea!), and some updating -- commenting on organic ingredients, chains’ competition wars (Krispy Kreme, Dunkin' Donuts, Tim Hortons), and websites. Etiquette matters include what and when to dunk, and not to dunk. The index has plenty of references to holes, but none to such things as Timbits. Recipes are mainly from chefs, such as Banana Donuts, New Orleans Calas, and orange sour cream doughnuts. Recipes and illustrations are sourced, but not her text. She has lists of the best small town doughnut shops (US only), except for some chains which are also in Canada plus two in France and one in Italy. Audience and level of use: history buffs, fast-food fanatics (those that can read). Some interesting or unusual facts: The most popular doughnut in the US is the glazed, followed by the chocolate. What I don’t like about this book: why not combine with the earlier book? This one is a little light on text. What I do like about this book: colourful, vivid writing style. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 3. APPRECIATING WINE; the flavour of wine explained (Collins, 2004, 192 pages, ISBN 0-00-710153-8, $36.95 paper covers) is by Phillip Hills, whose first book “Appreciating Whisky” was shortlisted for a major book award. His bio never mentions the word “wine”; this is a strange book to be authored by a malt expert. Nevertheless, it works. He begins by discussing what flavour is all about (taste, mouth sensations, smell) and what flavours are in wine (how to describe, aroma wheel, flavour profiles). He divides everything up by taste (sweet, sour, bitter), smells his way around the wheel (over 200 odours), talks about all the major grapes, notes the effects of terroir-vinification-elevage on taste (destemming, pressing, fermentation techniques, blending, aging techniques), and goes into “bad” tastes of corks, yeasts, bacteria, sulphur, and oxidation. There are sections on analytic and synthetic tasting. At the finish, he offers some flavour appreciation for a Brunello, an Hermitage, a Bordeaux, a Puligny-Montrachet, and a German Riesling. Audience and level of use: wine connoisseurs, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “If we are to appreciate wine, we must know what tastes to look for in wine and how to look for them”. What I don’t like about this book: way overpriced. The original catalogue cited this price for the HARD bound copy, not the paper copy. The index is only by broad subject; it needs more detail. What I do like about this book: takes into account typicity. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 4. JOHN PLATTER SOUTH AFRICAN WINES 2005 (John Platter SA Wine Guide, 2004; distr. by Laurel Keenan keenan@propellerpr.com, 586 pages, ISBN 0-9584506-3-3, $20 hard covers) is subtitled “the guide to cellars, vineyards, winemakers, restaurants, and accommodations”. While John Platter initiated the annual 25 years ago, he no longer tastes for it. For this latest edition, there are now 13 tasters -- all identified, and with initials after tasting notes. Some 4000 wines are here evaluated, along with new wineries. One-quarter of all top ranking 5 star wines are now being made by mom-and-pop operations, a remarkable achievement. Even the large co-ops are making more credible, limited collections of superior wine. The contents of the guide are straightforward: there are chapters on the wine industry, vintages and styles, touring (accommodation and food) -- all in seventy pages -- followed by some 450 pages of dictionary-arranged wineries, detailing most aspects. To quote, "Wines are entered under the name of the private producer, estate, co-operative winery or brand name of a merchant, and listed alphabetically. Entries feature some or all of: producer's name, address, phone/fax number, email address, website; wine name, colour and style, grape varieties, vintage, area of origin; selected recent awards and star ratings. Where applicable, other attractions to be enjoyed on the property, such as meals and accommodation, are highlighted." The book also has an indication of what organic wines available for sale and sketch maps to show all winery locations. Audience and level of use: for the serious collector, students, libraries, lovers of South African wines who are curious, travelers. Some interesting or unusual facts: they have reinstated the short list of excellent wines (17 got five stars), and there is now a Wine of the Year: Jean Daneal Signature Chenin Blanc 2003. What I don't like about this book: there are a few ads to pay the bills, but this seems unavoidable. Also, the Wine of the Year had no tasting note in the upfront section (you’ll have to dig up the entry). What I do like about this book: the index is by subject, so you can see at a glance what is the top performing pinotage, or cabernet sauvignon, or sparkler. Quality/Price Ratio: 96 -- the book has no competition, and it is put together very nicely as a package. 5. FARMHOUSE ALES; culture and craftsmanship in the Belgian tradition (Brewers Publications, 2004; distr. by National Book Network, 198 pages, ISBN 0-937381-84-5, $17.95US paper covers) is by Phil Markowski, an expert in Belgian beer styles and brewmaster at a pub, producing farmhouse style beers. He was assisted by Tomme Arthur and Yvan De Baets. This is the first really new beer book in quite some time. Here Markowski explores the ingredients and processes of Belgian (Walloon) and French beers. There are two basic types: the Wallonian saison (brewed locally for the region only during part of the year, meant for aging), and the French biere de garde (old beer, aged beer, more widely distributed). This is a technical book, with recipes for the home brewer and the microbrew. Contextual notes give a history with archival photos, a tour of some breweries in France, Belgium and the American knockoffs, plus tasting notes. He recommends yeasts for ales and lager garde. His recipes cover biere de garde, biere de Mars, biere de Noel, grisette, saison (spiced and unspiced), and super saison. There is a list of sources for ingredients in the US (spelt, hops, sugar, spices, yeast) plus a bibliography. Audience and level of use: Some interesting or unusual facts: “In the rush to embrace new high- tech lager beers, products of a budding industrial age, many varieties of farmhouse ale went by the wayside.” What I don’t like about this book: I think it needs the additional words “and French” in the subtitle – these are not Belgian fruit beers. What I do like about this book: a scholarly approach, along with colour photos of beer bottling lines of artisan producers in Belgium. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 6. ON FOOD AND COOKING; the science and lore of the kitchen, completely revised and updated (Scribner, 2004; distr. by Simon and Schuster, 884 pages, ISBN 0-684-80001-2, $49.95 hard covers) is by Harold McGee. It was published in 1984, and this is its first major overhaul in twenty years. McGee claims 90% new material was created, mostly about the past twenty years worth of culinary mechanics and trends, here in double text columns. He continues the mix of chemistry, history, folklore, literary anecdotes, kitchen tips and recipes, meanwhile explaining the science behind the cooking techniques. He notes the changes in modern day food production and diet (substitute sweeteners, mad cow disease, e coli, etc.). The first edition, which I own, had 200 fewer pages in single columns. In this latest edition, fish and seafood are now given their own section. Fruits and vegetables have been given separate chapters. But the section on “Food and the Body” (discussing nutrition and digestion) has been cut. And there are no index entries for nutrition or digestion, and there is no discussion on taste buds. The emphasis now is solely on food and cooking, not our body’s reactions to food and cooking. Audience and level of use: serious cooks, academics, libraries, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: sample topics discussed include why flipping meat on the grill every minute creates moistness, why toxins in plants are what makes them taste so good. What I don’t like about this book: there is more on food and the kitchen and so little on human use of food (nutrition and digestion). Please bring it back. What I do like about this book: updated bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 7. THE CALIFORNIA DIRECTORY OF FINE WINERIES; second edition (Wine House Press, 2004; distr. by Ten Speed Press, 144 pages, ISBN 0- 9724993-1-8, $28.95 hard covers) is a book package, with Marty Olmstead a travel writer, and Robert Holmes a photographer (there are 180 photos here), plus a slew of designers and copyeditors. It was first published in 2003. Sixty-one destination wineries are covered: 34 in Napa, 21 in Sonoma and 6 in Mendocino. Each is profiled and is physically described (layout of winery operations, buildings, gardens), along with reproductions of labels. Various sidebars list directions, vineyard tours, wine tastings, culinary events, and nearby attractions. Maps show these wineries plus about 100 others within the counties. For example, in Napa, there are Beaulieu, Beringer, Duckhorn, and Silver Oak. Cakebread withdrew from this second edition; in fact, there are 19 wineries new to the directory, so 19 have dropped out. In Sonoma, there are Arrowood, Benziger, and Chateau St.Jean. In Mendocino, there are Fetzer and Roederer Estate. Audience and level of use: California wine collectors, wealthy travelers, wine students. What I don’t like about this book: did these wineries pay for inclusion, or otherwise make a deal to purchase a minimum number of copies? No criteria are presented on why these wineries (and not others) were selected…There are also no tasting notes, nor any recipes. What I do like about this book: top-rate wineries are described, and the book is very useful for trips and tastings. Quality/Price Ratio: 83 8. RICK & LANIE’S EXCELLENT KITCHEN ADVENTURES; chef-dad teenage daughter recipes and stories (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda, 232 pages, ISBN 1-58479-331-7, $45 hard covers) is by Rick Bayless, well-known chef of Mexican foods and cookbook author, Lanie Bayless (his daughter), with Deann Groen Bayless (his wife). This is a far different cookbook than other Bayless efforts. It is essentially a “family” cookbook, with recipes for a cook and a teenager. The preps (all classics and easy) are derived from the family’s travels through Asia, Europe, Mexico and Oklahoma (Rick’s parents owned the Hickory House restaurant in this state, and some of these recipes come from there). The 100 recipes, with tips and advice, form a “generational dialogue” with two people cooking alongside each other, with different viewpoints. But not all preps are done by two people. Some can be done by one alone, usually the teenager. The family that cooks together, eats together, or something like that: simple recipes for simple food work best. It is important for everyone to know how to cook. They use US volume measurements, but there is a metric conversion chart. The Internet mail order sources are basically for US shopping. Audience and level of use: families, teenagers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: black bean tostadas with smoky salsa, Peruvian potatoes, tomatillo chicken, radish leaf soup, chicken in mustard sauce. What I don’t like about this book: a bit too cute, with a lot of “cool” sidebars about “cool” things. And suggested music (but at least Rick’s tastes in country music are about the same as mine). What I do like about this book: each recipe has a blocked off templated “Do This First” set of instructions. Quality/Price Ratio: if you need this book, give it an 89, 9. KITCHEN CULTURE; reinventing kitchen design (Firefly Books, 2004, 192 pages, ISBN 1-55297-968-7, $49.95 hard covers) is by Johnny Grey, a kitchen designer of over 20 years, contributor to “House and Garden” and the New York Times, and author of other similar kitchen books. He is also the nephew of Elizabeth David. For him, the kitchen is not just for cooking – it is for bringing a whole mental landscape from other places and other times. This reference work tries to make the kitchen a hub of activity, embracing our changing attitudes towards family life and entertaining. The caveat here, unfortunately, is that you’ll need lots of space. Grey’s work here is probably best suited to a brand new home. Still, the book has lots of ideas and practical tips. “The room that used to be simply for cooking is now a place where anything goes”. Grey covers this psychology of kitchen culture, how to accommodate kitchen traffic flow, how to maximize storage space, use of modern and traditional materials, body ergonomics and working triangles, small appliances, effective use of colour and textures, and floors and work surfaces. The terrific photos and plans show plenty of contours and circular patterns, with few angles. Audience and level of use: homemakers, those seeking a kitchen redesign (bring money), libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: Kitchens are getting larger because they are becoming more central to our lives – they now contain radio, television, computer, and eat-in areas. Space must be found to accommodate these items. What I don’t like about this book: His book was originally published in the UK in 2004, and is now available through Firefly in North America. So why are there only US suppliers and websites (except for ONE appliance dealer in Mississauga and ONE furniture source in Quebec)? What I do like about this book: a good bibliography, all recent books. Quality/Price Ratio: 86, 10. RECIPES FROM WINE COUNTRY (Whitecap Books, 2004, 320 pages, ISBN 1- 55285-605-4, $39.95 paper covers) is by Tony de Luca, Executive Chef of Hillebrand Estates Winery Restaurant in the Niagara Peninsula. His book is arranged by wine varietal and includes menus for each season. Thus, the chapters are headed sparklers, sauvignon blanc, riesling, chardonnay, gamay noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, plus fifteen desserts also arranged by season (most use icewine) – 150 recipes in all. Each chapter begins with a description of the wine followed by seasonal dishes. While there is good information on the wines and the best possible palate pairings in this book, I find that using only one wine at a meal can be boring. But that’s just me. I normally like at least one white and one red. The menus here are constructed with just one varietal in mind. So you’ll need to do some mixing and matching on your own. Actually, many of the dishes in each season are stand alones, not part of a menu as promoted by the publisher. You should feel free to mix and match, and drink any wines you prefer. And of course, wine is NOT needed in the actual cooking of every dish. De Luca has both metric and Imperial measurements in two columns in each recipe. Audience and level of use: wine lovers, restaurant and chefs, schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: aged cheddar and rosemary soufflé, chicken with four peppercorn crust, sea scallops with foie gras and red wine risotto, white chocolate gewürztraminer mousse and lemon parfait. What I don’t like about this book: alternate suggestions for wines and foods, plus cross-menu matches needed to be made by de Luca. What I do like about this book: wine-centric approach. The index has bold face for names of ingredients, making them stand out on the page. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 11. A COOK’S DICTIONARY; international food and cooking terms from A to Z (Bloomsbury, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 632 pages, ISBN 0-7475-7226- 7, $60 hard covers) has been put together by Charles Sinclair, with contributions from seven named individuals. It was first published in 1998. He covers – in alphabetical order -- classical dishes, historical dishes, cooking processes, equipment, and terms from more than 90 countries and regions. The 25,000 entries also include food sciences, nutrition, catering, botany, and technical aspects of food. This is all for quick reference and browsing, with brisk definitions. The entries are in bold-face, within double columns on each page, and with foreign words sourced (e.g., “fatira – East Africa – Ethiopian savoury pastries”). Readers, then, can use this dictionary to translate foreign menu terms. Audience and level of use: reference use, students, food lovers. Some interesting or unusual facts: The language of English cuisine is unusual in that it uses many words of foreign origin, often in their original spelling. What I don’t like about this book: spirits are defined (e.g., Calvados) when used in cooking, but there is hardly anything from the wine world here: no grape varietal names, no processes. What I do like about this book: when there is a picture of a toque in the margin, this indicates that the description of a food contains a rough outline recipe (aide memoire) that could be reproduced in a kitchen by a knowledgeable cook. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 12. BIODYNAMIC WINES (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 513 pages, ISBN 1-84000-964-0, $50 hard covers) is by Monty Waldin, a prolific wine writer and author of the previously published “Organic Wine Guide” (1999). He was piqued about biodynamic wines when he worked at Fetzer winery in California for six months. That winery had made a commitment to be totally biodynamic by 2010. Biodynamic wines must be organic to begin with, and in Europe, France (principally Languedoc- Provence-Corsica) leads the organic way, followed by Germany, Austria and Portugal. California, New Zealand, and Canada have organic vineyards, as does Chile and Argentina and Australia. Biodynamic principles include a special compost with its herbal tea, and various natural sprays on the earth (not the leaves). There appears to be increasing evidence of the benefits of biodynamics, but it all lacks global standards, transparent labeling, and market presence. Demeter is the official group which accredits biodynamic wineries (and, yes, you can have both “biodynamic grapes” and “biodynamic wines”). Quintessa Winery in California is going biodynamic, as is Joseph Phelps, Casa Lapostolle (Chile), and Villa Maria (NZ). Also in Chile: DeMartino, Los Vascos and Errazuriz. Part One of this book gives all the background details, with profiles of the major players involved and the rules – all in the first hundred pages. Part Two is the directory, arranged by country and region (France gets a hefty 220 pages, US gets 60, and Canada gets 3). For each producer, there are names and addresses, some notes and a rating for quality. Not all these wineries have been certified (but probably will be), and some producers have asked NOT to be included. Audience and level of use: serious wine readers, wine schools, libraries, sommeliers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Data on Europe’s organic farming sector are vague. Spain and Italy do not strictly differentiate between conversion vines or polycultural lands. What I don’t like about this book: alas, no tasting notes. What I do like about this book: that the book exists. Also, there is an impressive bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 94. 13. INSPIRING THIRST; vintage selections from the Kermit Lynch wine brochure (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 400 pages, ISBN 1-58008-636-5, $57.95 hard covers) is a collection of notes from his monthly newsletter, 1974 through 2003 (now a national circulation of 25,000). Lynch’s wine store is in Berkeley, California, but he now spends most of each year in Provence. He has long been associated with Alice Waters, the late Richard Olney, Patricia Wells, and Lulu Peyraud. This is iconoclastic writing at its best; Lynch uses his persuasive style to “inspire” us to purchase his wines (after all, the newsletter is a marketing tool) by relating stories about winemakers and their wines, with tasting notes and prices. There are 10 or so pages for each year (fewer for the early newsletter, more for the later ones), with the occasional recipes (e.g., squirrel muddle) and menus (e.g., a Provencal dinner). Most wines come from France (Alsace, Loire, Bordeaux, Burgundy, south of France) and Italy (Tuscany, Piedmont). There are label reproductions, historical illustrations, black and white photos of people and places. Audience and level of use: wine collectors and travelers. Some interesting or unusual facts: the newsletter began as an attempt to flog under noticed wines on which Lynch got a good deal, due to the depressed prices of 1972 – 1976. What I don’t like about this book: not enough of it – what was left out? What I do like about this book: good index to wines and people. Quality/Price Ratio: a bit pricey, but a useful addition to wine literature, gives it a 91. 14. RAISING THE BAR; better drinks better entertaining (Artisan, 2004; distr. T.Allen, 288 pages, ISBN 1-57965-260-3, $40 hard covers) is by Nick Mautone, a former restaurant manager but now consultant and writer. It was co-written by Marah Stets. It is pretty basic, with the usual techniques, bar lists, and so forth. There is material on serving cocktails to a crowd, plus pairing specific cocktails to specific foods (along with a chapter on snacks and apps, 24 recipes in all). Tips include party planning and cutting garnishes. Summer patio drinks and holiday cheers are also covered. There are copious instructions in each cocktail recipe, as well as plenty of shortcuts. There is an index by name of drink and ingredients, to all the 250 recipes. Mail order sources are all US. Audience and level of use: home use. Some interesting or unusual recipes: stuffed fingerlings, yogurt- crusted lamb chops, bourbon-bacon bean dip, buttermilk biscuit crostini with smoked ham. What I don’t like about this book: there is a bibliography, but all of the books are historical or single cocktail books such as about the Martini. No competitors are listed. What I do like about this book: he gives the principles and advice on how to create your very own signature cocktail. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 15. SCOTCH WHISKY New and Revised Edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. McArthur, 224 pages, ISBN 1-84000-990-X, $21.95 hard covers) is by Charles MacLean, a major author of eight other whisky books, editor, taster, judge, and consultant. It was first published in 1993; this is the fourth edition. It is now a standard guide to malts, grains, and blends. He covers the brands currently available, about 2000 labels. Preliminary material covers how whisky is made, the principles of whisky tasting, and appreciation. The main section is a dictionary arrangement of every available single malt and single grain whisky, plus the leading brands of blended, vatted, and liqueur whiskies. Each entry has name, type, distiller, owner, a history, notes, markets, and tasting notes (but only for the singles). He also gives an account of the changes since 1993, noting that consumption of single malts has doubled, that there are now five times the number of different bottlings, that names-ownerships-markets-blends have changed, and that there are lots more appreciation clubs and malt societies today. The appendices list distilleries which welcome visitors, the leading whisky societies, independent bottlers, the best selling brands and leading markets (with sales figures). Audience and level of use: bar staff, sommeliers, schools of hospitality students. Some interesting or unusual facts: When this book was first launched in 1993, he was approached and told “I have just been appointed Director General of the Scotch Whisky Association. I rely on your book utterly as I meet companies and visit distilleries, so I hope it will not cause me to shoot myself in the foot.” What I don’t like about this book: there are no TNs for the blends (there’s really not much to say, but there could have been an attempt to better distinguish one from the other). What I do like about this book: guide to collecting whisky bottles, and a bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 16. PEAT SMOKE AND SPIRIT; a portrait of Islay and its whiskies (Headline Book, 2004; distr. McArthur, 406 pages, ISBN 0-7472-2735-7, $40 hard covers) is by Andrew Jefford, a multi-award winning UK author of wine books (his last book was “The New France”). And he should win awards for this book too. Jefford provides a stunning history with detailed analysis of the seven distilleries on Islay. By 1833, there were 12 licensed distilleries plus a handful of illegal farm distilleries; DCL closed Port Ellen in 1983 but there is still plenty of that particular single malt still available (and Jefford provides tasting notes for Port Ellen). He begins with a general history of the island (shipwrecks, landscapes, weather, wildlife) and intersperses anecdotes and stories from interviews with 43 people. He presents an interesting discussion on wood second-hand cask management (ex-bourbon and ex-sherry): wood can account for between 40 – 70% of the finished malt’s character. He then goes through the seven (with notes on Port Ellen at the end): Ardberg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig. Laphroaig and Bowmore still do their own malting. He has full fact files and anecdotes for each distillery, plus comprehensive tasting notes. There are black and white historical photos on the same page as the text, a bibliography to local and historical sources, and an extensive index to all names, subjects, glossary entries and illustrations. Audience and level of use: peated and smoked single malt lovers, plus students and sommeliers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Each of Islay’s distilleries produces a spirit quite different in character from its neighbours, and some now produce two or three different styles. Where do their different characters come from? I don’t know. No one does. It’s a mystery.” What I don’t like about this book: actually, it is too short. More could have been said, but I realize publishers’ constraints. What I do like about this book: good writing style plus a glossary of local Scottish words and technical terms. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. 17. ROB FEENIE COOKS AT LUMIERE (Douglas & McIntyre, 2004, 182 pages, ISBN 1-55365-059-X, $35 paper covers) is the paperback reprint of the original 2001 hard cover edition. Feenie is the owner-chef of Lumiere (one of the top Vancouver restos) as well as a Food Network Canada chef. Lumiere is right up there with Charlie Trotter’s and French Laundry as a destination restaurant. The food here is light in texture and size (these are all part of a larger tasting menu), with Asian minimalism and French elegance. Feenie has wine recommendations for each dish. No metric measurements. Audience and level of use: chef and restaurant followers, TV cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: spring vegetable ragout, goat cheese ravioli, herb-crusted beef tenderloin, napa cabbage rolls. What I don’t like about this book: same tiny print in index as the Cannery book. No metric equivalent table. What I do like about this book: organized by season, with menus for vegetarians and seafood. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 18. STONEWALL KITCHEN HARVEST; celebrating the bounty of the seasons (Clarkson Potter, 2004; distr. Random House Canada, 288 pages, ISBN 1- 4000-5077-4, $42 hard covers) is by the team of Jim Stott, Jonathan King and Kathy Gunst. Stott and King are the owners of Stonewall Kitchen, a Maine-based fancy food marketer. Gunst is a free-lance food writer and editor living in Maine. These are basic and simple recipes, with sections in the book covering the garden, fruit, root vegetables, and seafood. It is almost a Maine cookbook. Scattered throughout are sidebars discussing ingredients, such as “Maine shrimp”. US volume measurements are used, and there is no metric equivalent table. The resources list covers website. The book concludes with a bibliography of similar cookbooks. Audience and level of use: travelers, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sautéed ramps (wild leeks), New England winter salad (watercress, scallops, oranges, almonds), morel and pea sauté, beet napoleons. What I don’t like about this book: all the resources are American. Also, there are a few typos (e.g., “belpw” for “below”). What I do like about this book: the recipes have internal cross- references to other recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 19. POURCEL BROTHERS COOKBOOK; our recipes from La Compagnie des Comptoirs (Hachette Illustrated, 2004; distr. by McArthur, ISBN 1- 84430-099-4, $39.95 hard covers) has been ably packaged with assistance from Bernhard Winkelmann (photographer), Valerie Lhomme (food stylist and writer), and Sophie Brissaud (food writer and stylist). It was originally published in French in 2003. The Pourcels are identical twins, three star Michelin chefs who always cook together. Their first restaurants were in France (1988), followed by Japan, Bangkok, and London with complementary food shops, a cooking school, and a food magazine. Their main inspirations are regular Mediterranean food and Mediterranean-Asian fusion food. The 72 recipes are divided into sections, beginning with vegetarian foods (subdivided into Languedoc, other regions, fusion), followed by French food and Mediterranean food, and then Asiatic food. For each of the geographic sections, there are first courses, fish courses, meat, and desserts. Each recipe seems to have an infinite amount of detail. Most are accompanied by a gorgeous final prep full colour picture verging on gastroporn. Audience and level of use: chef followers, restaurateurs, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: tomato tartare with toasted almond milk, roast knuckles of lamb with salsify puree, lobster spring rolls with avocado, pork belly with polenta-onions-figs. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine recommendations. Also, there is too much detail and space on their activities. The index is only by title of the recipe, thus all grilled items are under “g” for grilled, marinated salmon is under “m”, etc. What I do like about this book: each recipe includes both metric AND Imperial measurements (yea!). Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 20. WORKIN’; more Kitchen Sessions with Charlie Trotter (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 224 pages, ISBN 1-58008-613-6, $55 hard covers) has been assembled by the restaurant team at Charlie Trotter’s. It has been tied into the second season of his PBS cooking show, which features 13 ingredients over 26 weeks. In this book, there are about six recipes for each item: artichokes, corn, fennel, greens, legumes, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, root vegetables, squash, tomatoes, cheese and desserts. Plus vinaigrettes and sauces. Meats are covered with the vegetables. The 78 recipes are all accompanied by sharp wine notes written by Jason Smith, sommelier at the resto. There are absolutely superb food styling photos and a glossary of techniques and ingredients. The measurements are by US volume, and sadly there is no metric equivalent table. Audience and level of use: celebrity chef followers, TV chefs, restaurateurs. Some interesting or unusual recipes: four-bean venison chili with cheddar, lamb loin with olive-oil poached artichokes, grilled tuna with sweet corn relish, rabbit with wilted arugula salad. What I don’t like about this book: the introductory text to each recipe is in too light a typeface. What I do like about this book: excellent index by recipe name and ingredient, but the ink chosen for the major entries is too light. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 21. THE CANNERY SEAFOOD HOUSE COOKBOOK (Douglas & McIntyre, 2004, 174 pages, ISBN 1-55365-070-0, $50 hard covers) is by Frederic Couton, chef at the restaurant since 1996 (it was founded in 1971). 100 recipes cover both traditional and new dishes, re-tested for the home cook. Despite the name of the restaurant (and in common with many seafood palaces), there are also meat and poultry preps, and these are also found here. Arrangement is by course: cold appetizers, hot apps, soups, entrees, desserts. Both Imperial and metric measurements are used side by side in the recipes, a definite plus. Audience and level of use: restaurant and chef fans, intermediate level of use. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sautéed Mediterranean vegetables in a crispy parmesan cup, salmon carpaccio, pan roasted mussels, cedar planked arctic char. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine recommendations (every restaurant book should have some), and the index has a tiny typeface. What I do like about this book: there are eight special occasion menus, but no page references to the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 22/3. CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING WINE (iUniverse, 2004, 98 pages, ISBN 0- 595-32702-8, $11.95US paper covers) and EROTIC FOODS (iUniverse, 2004, 74 pages, ISBN 0-595-32698-6, $10.95US paper covers) are both “grape goddess guides to good living”, being advice, tips, and anecdotes from Catherine Fallis, a Master Sommelier since 1997. She has worked for all sides of the hospitality industry. The Champagne book is basic: terroirs, grape varieties, history, production methods for both MC and other sparkling wines. Stems (and shoes) are talked about, as well as bottle sizes. There are notes on how to taste and evaluate, with data on food pairing. Recommendations are given, mainly for US nationally distributed labels at full retail. She has quotes from other writers and famous people, as well as stories on how Champagne affected and interrelated with her life. There is even a quiz, and a second quiz which follows chapters on seductive entertaining and parties. A short bibliography concludes the work. Because this book grew out of two sets of weekly email notes, there is an episodic feel about it. This feel continues with the Erotic Foods book, where she emphasizes anticipation and aphrodisiacs. Fallis has separate chapters for chocolate, almonds- figs-mango-dates-coconut, grapes-apple-kiwi, artichokes-eggplant- mushroom-garlic, truffles (the mushroom kind), hot spices, coffee and tea, oysters, caviar, cheese and honey. She tells you what to do with each to maximize your pleasure, and to set the mood. Typical potables include Champagne, sweet wines, and fortifieds. Again, she has scattered many quotations about the book. Fallis lists menus (all priced as to cost) with wines, followed by a quiz. There are a number of recipes with wine recommendations. Unfortunately for us, all the mail order sources are US. She concludes with details of various creams and scents, as well as a music list and a bibliography. Also, unfortunately, there are no indexes to the books; this means that a reader must recall or skim the contents pages. For more details about these and other similar books (there is one on Wine), Fallis can be contacted through www.planetgrape.com. Audience and level of use: beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes: mango bread, zabaglione, truffled risotto, shrimp and pernod. What I don’t like about these books: whenever there is a “technical” term to be discussed in the Champagne book, she issues a “wine geek alert”. Also, somewhere between a fourth and a fifth of each book is devoted to her (repetitious) biography and how she personally feels about champagne and/or erotic food. Both could have been condensed a bit, giving more space for expansion of material. As it is, there is already a lot of white space. What I do like about this book: her saucy attitude. Quality/Price Ratio: both books are available to us through Amazon.Ca: the Champagne at $14.61 plus GST, and the Erotic at $13.39 plus GST. The pricing and the brevity of the books put the rating at 76. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR DECEMBER 2004 ================================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!! 1. THE WINES OF BORDEAUX AND VINTAGES AND TASTING NOTES 1952-2003 (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 720 pages, ISBN 0- 297-84317-6, $100) is by Clive Coates, MW, one of the world’s greatest authorities on Bordeaux wines. This is his long awaited updated revision of “Grands Vins: the finest chateaux of Bordeaux and their wines”, originally published in 1993 (and to “Claret”, an earlier work from 1982). But it is more than that: it also extends the range of material to all of Bordeaux, right down to the lesser estates. Coates has 40 years experience as a Bordeaux wine taster. The work is in two parts. The first deals with the appellations and the estates. The 360 pages here concentrate on the performance of the wineries since 1990. Profile details are for current ownership, with the latest statistics and facts for surface area under vines, owners, second wines, etc. There is often an historical illustration, taken from Cocks & Feret, and a paragraph or two about the winery. The arrangement is by appellation, and not alphabetical. Coates also rates the wineries (three star, two star, one star, none) and lists them all together by number of stars in one of the appendices. He thereby covers all the big guns and the upandcomers. Scattered throughout are some line maps to help the reader get his bearing. Part two is the vintage assessments, in 260 pages, covering 2003 (briefly) back through 1952. Every year has some detail about the weather, the harvest, the red wines, the white wines, the prices, the values, and of course the tasting notes (TNs). His TNs discuss the characteristics, state of maturity, and optimum drinking time of each wine, plus a rating out of 20 points. The appendices contain a Crus Bourgeois classification for 2003, a vintage and price guide for the best years of the major chateaux from 2001 through 1959 with ratings for value, and statistics of viticulture and viniculture. This is followed by a glossary, a long bibliography, and an index to the chateaux. Audience and level of use: reference book, Bordeaux collectors, wine students, sommeliers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The most significant change vis a vis earlier classifications of the Crus Bourgeois is that there is no longer any distinction between properties on the Medoc and the Haut- Medoc.” What I don’t like about this book: small typeface, thin margins, all unavoidable to keep the book within page and price constraints. What I do like about this book: it was great to see the Cocks & Feret illustrations. Coates has a pretty good introductory section summarizing everything in 60 pages. Quality/Price Ratio: 94 (pricey, but an important book: you’ll need this one) 2. TART TATINS (Hachette Illustrated, 2004, distr. McArthur, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84430-097-8, $14.95) is by Catherine Quevremont, a food journalist. It was previously published in French in 2003; this is the English translation. The original “tart tatin” was an upside down apple pie, an inverted tart with the pastry on top and the caramelized apples on the bottom. Without caramelization, the upside down principle continues since the filling is cooked (actually, steamed) beneath a layer of pastry which prevents the filling from drying out in the oven. This can give some interesting combinations of flavours, and it is a great technique to employ on your menu for added meal excitement. Quevremont presents four kinds of pastry coverings (short crust, sweet, corn (wheatless), and parmesan or cheese-enhanced). She gives 13 sweet tatins, and 16 savoury, with one page for each recipe and a page for the final prep photo. Both metric and Imperial measurements are used. There is no index, but the table of contents is appropriate for only 39 recipes. Audience and level of use: the explorer cook, hospitality trade looking for something different. Some interesting or unusual recipes: rhubarb tatin, tomato and sardine tatin, onion and sultana tatin, fig and pancetta. What I don’t like about this book: I would have liked more recipes, but these are in line with the price. What I do like about this book: almost all of the sweet and savoury contents under the pastry can also be used as a pizza, and by extension, almost all pizzas can be tatins. Just make adjustments for roasting vs. steaming. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 3. JUST ONE POT (Cassell Illustrated, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84403-284-1, $44.95) is by Lindsey Bareham, a UK restaurant critic and food writer. This is just one of the many “one pot” or kitchen dinner or one dish or braising or one platter cookbooks which have been unleashed this year (see below for some of them). Here are 100 recipes, in the usual collection of classic, contemporary, and ethnic assortment, with vegetarian and meat choices, emphasizing seasonal and staple foods. All the recipes have minimal preparations but you’ll need stocks for a base and flavourings. All the recipes have prep times and cooking times. Both UK and metric measurements are listed. Audience and level of use: home cooks, basic skills, ideas for restaurant lunches. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Irish stew, beef stroganoff, pad thai, cassoulet, asparagus risotto, Italian venison burgers. What I don’t like about this book: it stretches “pot” to include stove- top preps such as risotto and pasta. Also, the archaic terms “wineglass” and “small glass” turn up in the measurements. What I do like about this book: good layout. Quality/Price Ratio: 78 (pricey) 4. THE WINEMAKERS’ ESSENTIAL PHRASEBOOK (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 344 pages, ISBN 1-84000-782-6, $55 stiff flexi-paper covers) is by James March leading a editorial team that includes James Halliday, Bruno Prats, and Ernst Loosen. It is an essential purchase for anyone in the wine business. The phrasebook (actually it is questions and statements) are in six languages: English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese, arranged in four categories. It is very good for vocabulary building. It follows the production of wine from the vineyard, through the winemaking process, to the final sensory evaluation. These phrases form intelligent questions to ask at the winery of the working professionals. The first section covers “introductory” phrases about yourself, some leading questions, general expressions, about the property and the winery, about the vineyard, and about the wines (e.g., how many different styles of wine are made here? What yields do you aim for from this variety?). Viticulture is up next, with phrases dealing with terroir, varietals, plantings, trellis design, pruning, canopy management, diseases, harvest, and organic/biodynamic principles. The third section is on vinification (reception, sorting, crushing, pressing, refrigeration, chaptalisation, enzymes, racking, blending, oak treatment: 113 categories in all, right through to packaging). The last is sensory evaluation: appearance, nose, palate, faults, descriptors. Audience and level of use: any wine lover who travels, techies, winery employees, wine writers, reference libraries. Some interesting or unusual phrases: “I need a white background and a good light source to assess the wines visually”, “Your perfume/aftershave lotion is distracting from the tasting session”, “It is not really appropriate to compare such different styles”, “I find it difficult to assess a wine using a tastevin”, “The glasses need to be cleaned and dried” What I don’t like about this book: sadly, there is no room for phonetics. Also, the text is on gray tinted paper, probably to discourage scanning/photocopying. What I do like about this book: This is an extremely useful review about what goes on in the world of winemaking. Quality/Price Ratio: 98. 5. FRESH & WILD COOKBOOK; a real food adventure (Thorsons, 2004; distr. by HarperCollins, 359 pages, ISBN 0-00-717694-5, $23.95 paper covers) is by Ysanne Spevack, a UK author of six previous books dealing with organic food and leader of organicfood.co.uk. “Fresh & Wild” was one of the largest organic food chain stores in the UK until it was bought by Whole Foods of the US. All recipes are for organic foods, but of course you can substitute conventional foods and you can substitute for many ingredients too. Spevack points out that some foods are only available as organic foods (burdock root, red kale) and other foods are preferred in their organic state (e.g., zests from organic lemons will not have pesticides or waxes). The book is arranged by meal: breakfast, lunch, dinner, plus sweets, soups and salads, juices, and kid stuff. Metric measurements are used in the recipes, and Imperial/metric/UK measurements for oven temperatures. Spevack presents an impressive and extensive listing of UK websites and an international bibliography for food and sustainability, plus other cookbooks. Audience and level of use: those seeking an organic cookbook. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Nori sushi wraps, tarka dhal, poached quinces, apple porridge, duck and chanterelle pie, beef and apricot stew. What I don’t like about this book: this book is meant for the UK market, so it might prove of limited value in Canada. What I do like about this book: organic food is stressed. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 6. FRIED CHICKEN; an American story (G.P.Putnam’s, 2004, 182 pages, ISBN 0-399-15183-4, $28) and 7. APPLE PIE; an American story (G.P.Putnam’s, 2004, 162 pages, ISBN 0- 399-15215-6, $28) are by John T. Edge is director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi. He also a well- known, prize-winning food writer, specializing in US southern food. These two books are the first in an announced series of “best loved American food”; the other two will deal with hamburgers and French fries, and with donuts (or, as we say in Canada, doughnuts). The Fried Chicken book (and bear in mind that it IS “fried”) comes right out of the US South, while the Apple book has more diverse American roots. Each book has a history of the main ingredient and some regional variations, backed up by 15 recipes scattered throughout. Over 100 years ago, fried chicken was made available to railroad passengers in US little towns, being cooked from family recipes handed down from the American plantation kitchen period. Fried chicken appeared in picnic baskets; kids took it to school in lunch boxes. The regional approach leads to chapters on Kentucky Fried Chicken, Buffalo wings, and Nashville Hot Chicken. The apple pie book details how this dish came to represent Mom and Country. Again, he gives a history and some cultural lore, from its English origins to truck stops. Both books cover colourful characters, with the blurb proclaiming “uniquely American”. There is appendix with a list of his favourite US diners and bakeries serving fried chicken and apple pie (most are in the South). Audience and level of use: the curious American. Some interesting or unusual recipes: cheese-straw apple pie, green with chili envy apple pie, Tennessee fire fried chicken (hot sauce), honey and rosemary-gilded fried chicken. What I don’t like about this book: no index to neither the text nor the recipes. Also, a bit pricey What I do like about this book: good writing style. Quality/Price Ratio: 78. 8. THE ART OF THE COCKTAIL (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84172-703-2, $36.95) is by Ben Reed, a UK bartender (now a consultant) who has won prizes and has authored four other books for the same publisher. It is a pretty straightforward effort. There is a section “Behind the Bar” which covers the basics (vodka, gin, whiskey, rum, tequila, brandy, garnishes) and staples to buy, plus some of the flavours available to cocktails. “Equipment and Techniques” deals with shaking, stirring, mudding, glasses, tools. “Perfect Serve” deals with creativeness. 200 recipes cover aperitifs through digestifs, including highballs, coolers, punches, shooters, and drinks for most tastes and occasions. The photos, of course, verge on gastroporn (or is it boozeporn?). Reed makes it all sound so easy, which is great for inspiring confidence. There are also imperial/metric conversion charts and a glossary. Audience and level of use: home use, gift book. Some interesting or unusual facts: “It was really the roaring twenties that saw cocktails come into their own”. Prohibition produced moonshine which flavours needed masking. The women-friendly environment came out of the need for a speakeasy cover: a dining experience, with a sweet drink. Hence, cocktails never made it to the labouring classes. What I don’t like about this book: while there is a history and some historical photos, this section is too short and should have been expanded. What I do like about this book: mocktails are also covered. With 200 recipes, there should be enough here to satisfy most people. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 9. 100 GREAT CURRIES (Cassell Illustrated, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84403-275-2, $26.95 paper covers) is by Keith Floyd, a UK restaurateur and entrepreneur. He ranges from creamy kormas, to masalas, from Thai red and green curries to equally spicy curries from China, Malaysia, Egypt, Burma, and Indonesia. He discusses spices and equipment, and he also gives recipes for breads, rice, chutneys, and pickles. The main section of the book is arranged by meat and vegetable. Both Imperial and metric measurements are given, and there is full plated photography. Audience and level of use: basic curries good for every one. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pistachio chicken curry, tandoori lamb, fish curry with mustard, vegetable brochettes, watermelon curry, What I don’t like about this book: nothing, really. Pretty standard. What I do like about this book: there is an extensive index. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 10. WILD AT THE TABLE; 275 years of American game & fish cookery (Willow Creek Pr., 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 312 pages, ISBN 1-57223- 680-9, $34.95) is by S.G.B. Tennant, Jr., food editor at several outdoor and sportsmen magazines. The author begins with the history and development of US wild game and fish, dealing with context and what people ate. He has sidebars, such as Jefferson’s notes on a Brunswick stew. He cites influences from First Nation, Afro-American, Creole- Cajun, Mexican and New England forms of cooking. Some recipes are presented from writers who were outdoors people, such as Mark Twain’s crayfish gratin or Ernest Hemingway’s smothered conch. At the end of the book, Tennant has sections on soups, stews, chowders, terrines, sauces and breads. Plus three recipes for dog biscuits, to feed your companion hound. To note: there are significant troubleshooting pages here for “concerns” of the outdoors, such as bacteria, anthrax, botulism, salmonella, Lyme’s disease, mercury contamination, PCBs, red tide, West Nile, trichinosis. Audience and level of use: the outdoors person, or to anyone who has to deal with game. There is also a sources list at the back of the book. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pecan dusted channel catfish, mahi mahi in Hawaiian butter, braised pheasant with Madeira. What I don’t like about this book: the index is arranged only by animal. What I do like about this book: each animal has a graphic illustration. Alternate choices are also given, for substitutions. Quality/Price Ratio: 11. THE FITNESS KITCHEN; recipes for a fad-free lifestyle (Taylor Trade Publishing, 2004; distr. by National Book Network, 292 pages, ISBN 1- 58979-143-6, $24.95 paperback) is by Shelly Sinton, M.S., a senior recipe tester and reviewer for several newsletters and websites. These 175 recipes concentrate on a healthy lifestyle beyond Atkins, South Beach, etc. But it is not a major shift. It is all tasty food, with nutritional analyses for each recipe. The book is arranged by course. Sinton presents 10 fitness kitchen principles (e.g., kitchen attitude, healthy living, how to eat): all easy guidelines. Her book is based on her articles for Dolfzine On-line Fitness (www.dolfzine.com) and on her own website www.shellysfitnesskitchen.com. All of her recipes are labeled. Some are “Fast and Easy”, others are “Freezer Friendly”. The rest are “Worth the Effort”, “Needs to Marinate”, “Plan Ahead”, “Make Ahead”. She has sections on flavour boosters, food storage and preparation, pantry essentials, and quick dessert ideas. Seven important food are emphasized: salmon, beans, yogurt, nuts and seeds, oatmeal, fruit and vegetables. US measurements are used, there is a bibliography, and websites are sourced. Audience and level of use: just what you need post-Christmas. Some interesting or unusual recipes: balsamic steak, fish tacos, poached tomato saffron salmon, masa-crusted chicken strip salad What I don’t like about this book: Be warned: you cannot lose any real weight here, but you’ll be able to keep off what you had lost, and avoid repeating the weight loss-gain cycle. What I do like about this book: she has some healthy drink recipes, not mocktails. These include mojito, amaretto coffee, mimosa, spritzers. The section on seven kitchen exercises is quite good, with suggestions for staying in shape with your lower body, upper body and torso. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 12. A MATTER OF TASTE; inspired seasonal menus with wines and spirits to match (HarperCollins, 2004, 368 pages, ISBN 0-00-200672-3, $50) is by Lucy Waverman and James Chatto, both senior editors for “Food & Drink” (published by the LCBO). Waverman is also a food writer with the Globe and Mail, while Chatto also writes about food and drink for Toronto Life. This is seasonal entertaining at its finest for us in Canada. The book has 175 or so recipes, divided by season, with five or more entertaining menus and 2 to 3 “fast and fresh” family menus in each section. Themes menus include holidays (Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years), cooking for a crowd, a book club menu, a bistro dinner, a ski chalet, a summer gardening party, a spring brunch. There are four or so dishes per menu, with lots of wine choices for each dish and each menu. No specific producers are mentioned, just grapes or regions. Scattered about are “Food Tech” or “Wine Tech” pages, such as the ones on tannins, oak, chocolate, and brining. The index covers the wines and the foods (ingredients) so that you can check out what goes with Baco Noir or Valpolicella. Photos of finished preps accompany many of the recipes. This is a cookbook, a food book, a primer to wines and spirits, and a guide to menus and entertaining. Audience and level of use: upscale Canadians, schools of hospitality, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes: vegetable croustade, spiced yellow tomato soup, slow-cooked lamb with pecorino, sticky toffee pudding. What I don’t like about this book: the publicity material makes a big thing about Chatto recommending a single-malt scotch to pair with a chocolate truffle (indeed, some promotion items even got the chocolate dessert wrong!). But try tracking down the reference to single-malt scotch: you’ll need to run through a few entries in the index before you can find it. What I do like about this book: Chatto does a nice job in covering the basic principles of wine and food matching. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 13. THE GOURMET COOKBOOK; more than 1,000 recipes (Houghton Mifflin, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 1040 pages, ISBN 0-618-37408-6, $55) has been edited by Ruth Reichl, editor of Gourmet Magazine and former restaurant reviewer for both the New York and Los Angeles Times. There is little more that I can say about this book; it has been reviewed everywhere. Some facts (based on interviews): there are 1283 recipes (from 50,000 which have been published since 1941, although only 3000 were chosen, tested, and whittled down); each final recipe was tested eight times and is supposed to represent the very best version of such a dish. The price is very reasonable for such quality, but to keep the book physically usable and within a price range, there are neither illustrations nor gastroporn – just some useful line drawings (pea shoots, cuts of beef, etc.). The rage of food preparations include dinner for two up to a cocktail party for 50, 102 hors d’oeuvre and first courses, 120 vegetable dishes (artichokes to zucchini), classic dishes (chicken kiev, crème brulee, pad thai), festive dishes, quick dishes, 50 pasta and risotto dishes, 300 desserts (including nine “best chocolate cake recipes Gourmet has ever published”. The usual tips and guidance advice are strewn about, and these locations are where the techniques are placed. There is a glossary and sources of US-only supplies. US volume measurements are employed, but there is no metric at all, not even a table of equivalents! I checked my clip file for Gourmet recipes, to see what I had that the book did not. There were no recipes for baba ghanouj, no bagna cauda, no chile con queso, no zucchini parmesan pancakes. In fact, I checked just about ALL of my Gourmet magazine recipes against this book, and I didn’t have a single one that was in the book, although some of the book recipes are probably consolidations. My other grievance against the book is a personal one: I missed the old Gourmet narrative style of recipes! I loved reading the recipe through and forming a plan of attack, making a list of ingredients. The narrative style, which is just the same as a paragraph in a book, forces you to read it through and savour the dish. The current style is like any other cookbook: an opening context statement, a list of ingredients with quantities, and a numbered series of steps. This style makes it all seem like bricklaying… Audience and level of use: the intent is to be a general book, but with upscale recipes. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sweetbreads with parsnip potato puree (takes 14 hours, mostly soaking time), chocolate sambuca crinkle cake, celery with fennel and bacon, prosecco and summer fruit terrine, minced squab and pork with rice stick noodles. What I don’t like about this book: there are very few innards. There are no recipes for heart, kidney, oxtail or pig tail, five poultry liver recipes (pates and terrines), one calf liver, one sweetbread, one tongue, and one tripe (Roman, not Mexican menudo). Also, the first (and very large) printing had faint yellow ink recipe heads and buttons, which were unreadable and unusable. Maybe by the time you read this review and decide to purchase the book there will have been a second printing with the promised ink changes to a darker, more amber tone. What I do like about this book: there is an extensive 70 page index, but it lacks running headers which are needed for an index this size. There are two gold tassels for bookmarks. Quality/Price Ratio: gives this feat a 90. 14. 1,000 ITALIAN RECIPES (Wiley Publishing, 2004, 652 pages, ISBN 0- 7645-6676-8, $49.99) is by Michele Scicolone, author of ten other Italian cookbooks and freelance writer for many magazines. It’s been compiled from a number of different sources (other books, family friends, home Italian cooks, etc.); it is good standard stuff. Everyone’s favourite dishes are here, plus regional items and variations. The full range moves from antipasto to desserts, covering upscale celebrations, vegetarian, and comfort food. There is a section on the Italian pantry (nice to know that I have everything already save for amaretti) and how to select Italian ingredients. The sixteen menus for festive gatherings have no page references for the dishes; you must use the index. There are fish dishes for Lent and Christmas Eve, lamb for Easter, holiday cookies. But no “Big Night” timpano/timballo…Here’s the count: 179 pasta and sauces, 241 meat-poultry-seafood, 158 vegetables, 179 desserts, plus other assorted and variations. The book is printed on dark-green ink, which is useful. There are double columns, with English and Italian names (but the latter are not indexed), some tips and advice in the headers leading to the recipes, and US volume measurements. The book concludes with a glossary, a US source list, websites, and a bibliography. Audience and level of use: the homemaker who wants an allinone. Some interesting or unusual recipes: torta della Nonna, orecchiette con ragu di Maiale, spiedini di vitello al prosciutto. What I don’t like about this book: while there are notes on pairing Italian wines to foods, this covers only four pages. The bibliography cites mainly Italian cookbooks in Italian, and no real English competing books! What I do like about this book: all encompassing and broad. And no illustrations or photos, neither are needed. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 15. DESSERTS AND WINES; exquisite combinations to delight the palate (Mitchell Beazley, 2004, 208 pages, ISBN 1-84000-954-3, $39.95) is by Philip Gobet (patissier at Lenotre, the company founded in 1957) and Olivier Poussier (chief sommelier and head of wine buying at Lenotre). It was originally published in France in 2002. Sixty desserts are covered – with full recipes – and 120 sweet wine recommendations for complements. Most of the desserts are fruit (yellow and white, red, exotic citric fruit, candied and dried fruit) with a few cream and caramel, and some chocolate and coffee. These are all stunningly good combinations of aromas, taste and textures. Most of the wines are from France (the book’s authors are French), a few more from the rest of Europe, some from South Africa and Australia. Canada has one entry: an Inniskillin Vidal Icewine paired to cream caramel with lime. Most of the wines are vintaged. Presumably, while the year does matter, later vintages can be employed; otherwise, the book would be hopelessly out- of-date soon. Also, some of the wines are fortified (sherry, port). For each recipe, prep times are indicated, as well as cooking times and chilling times (if needed). There are superb notes on tasting the matchups. In general, there is one page for each recipe with one page for the matching wine, and one page for the final prep photo. Both UK Imperial and metric measurements are used. There is a glossary, and an index by wine (not by dessert); the desserts are handled by a table of contents. Audience and level of use: useful for sommeliers and for schools of hospitality, cookbook collectors, lovers of sweet wines. Some interesting or unusual recipes: peach flan (with a gewürztraminer VT or schreube auslese), pear and almond tart (with quarts de chaume), chilled strawberry and orange-flower soup (with champagne), cake with blackberry filling (with pineau des charentes). What I don’t like about this book: there is an address list for the producers of the wines, but this was not thought out: the list was taken directly from the 2002 French book, and thus all the addresses are for buying the wines in France! What I do like about this book: a nice idea, it could have been expanded to have more New World wines and even more recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89 (decent price) 16. KITCHEN SUPPERS FOR FAMILY AND FRIENDS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-707-5, $36.95) is by Laura Washburn, who translates French cookbooks into English and tests recipes. She also wrote “Bistro” for the same publisher. This is simple and quick, easy home cooking. Even spontaneous cooking. Straight forward, 80 recipes (including ethnic as well) embracing a wide and satisfying variety of foods. As usual from Ryland, there is good photography for the finished platings. Washburn has conversion charts between American/metric/Imperial measurements. Audience and level of use: for beginners Some interesting or unusual facts: croissant pudding, Portuguese lamb stew, marinated steaks, sugar snap peas and fennel. What I don’t like about this book: the index is only for courses or major preps. What I do like about this book: its sensibility. Quality/Price Ratio: 78 (steep price). 17. THE BIG PLATTER COOKBOOK; cooking and entertaining family style (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-58479-332-5, $45) is by Lou Jane Temple (food writer in Kansas City) and A. Cort Sinnes (food writer in Napa, specializing in grilled foods). Here are some 100 recipes, expressed through 15 menus, for homey, substantial make ahead preps, for casual dining. Everything has been cooked in advance, and the main dish is served on a platter. The authors give plenty of tips on how to prepare foods in advance. The menus are organized by the seasons, and include a New Year’s Day Pig Party, a Napa Valley Harvest Feast, a Summer Street Food Party. Quite a few of the recipes are grilled; for us in Canada, that shortens the time available for meal preps to early summer through early fall. Ethnic and vegetarian foods are also covered. Wine recommendations are made for each main dish. There are separate chapters on starters and desserts, to round out the meals. Most of the recipes are good hot or lukewarm or cool; each serves eight to 12. There are metric conversion charts (US/UK/Metric). Audience and level of use: the party giver, the male chef Some interesting or unusual recipes: grilled spring chicken Dijon, escarole-potato-sausage a la Tamborello, lamb tagine, turkey enchilada pie, torta rustica. What I don’t like about this book: too many items are grilled, and this is not carefully explained – in case you don’t like a lot of grilling. What I do like about this book: large typeface, should appeal to men who like grilling or BBQ, good entertainment ideas. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 18. THE COMPLETE BOOK OF SPIRITS; a guide to their history, production and enjoyment (HarperCollins, 2004, 324 pages, ISBN 0-06-054218-7, $34.95) is by Anthony Dias Blue, longtime Wine and Spirits editor for “Bon Appetit”. He has authored many books on wine, but lately he has shifted his focus to more articles and books on spirits. His last book was The Complete Book of Mixed Drinks, which had some detail about the spirits (but these are expanded here in his current book). Basically, the scope is the history and lore of spirits, with tasting tips and recipes for classic cocktails. There is a good section on what is required for hosting spirit tastings. Blue’s chapters cover vodka, aquavit, gin, rum, tequila, whisky and whiskey, brand and liqueurs. The latter two are the largest sections in the book. Each begins with an informative history of the spirit and what to look for. For every spirit there is a tasting note section, with ratings and pricepoints. While the emphasis is on what is available in the US, most of these spirits are also available in Canada. He explains such things as the differences between potato and wheat vodkas, mescal and tequila, American and Irish whiskey, single-malts and blends. We’ve seen it all before, but not with a lot of tasting notes. There are some recipes for the classic or original preparations of drinks. While there is a bibliography and an index, there are no illustrations or even label reproductions. Audience and level of use: interested consumers, sommeliers, bartenders, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Absolut is the world’s third largest premium spirits brand. What I don’t like about this book: For Absolut, the tasting note on page 25 is “has a smooth malt essence with a hint of dried fruit”, while on page 28 it is “smooth, clean, and peppery with lush vanilla and toasty notes”. What I do like about this book: great to have a copious amount of tasting notes for essentially bland products such as vodkas and blended whiskies. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 19. ALL ABOUT BRAISING; the art of uncomplicated cooking (W.W.Norton, 2004, 481 pages, ISBN 0-393-05230-3, $51) is by Molly Stevens, a teacher at various cooking schools (French style) and a free-lance food writer. She advocates long, slow cooking, “sharing a meal from one pot”. These are the classics (oxtail, sauerbraten, osso buco) and the contemporary and the ethnic dishes. The 150 recipes have wine recommendations, lacking a few in the vegetable area. There are 34 vegetable recipes, with the balance comprising meats and seafood. Stevens has a solid amount of information here on braising pots (with drawings), cuts of meat, techniques. These are in the first 35 pages, with tips distributed throughout the book. Each recipe has good, solid, clear directions, with braising times indicated. Variations are given. US measurements, US sources of supply, US websites. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Vietnamese braised scallops, escarole braised with cannelloni beans, tuna steaks braised with radicchio and chickpeas, chicken do-piaza (Indian spiced). What I don’t like about this book: I am surprised that she doesn’t mention the Slow Food movement. Also, there are no recipes for heart or kidney. No metric equivalency charts. What I do like about this book: the photos of the finished dishes have page references to the recipe. There is a great bibliography (I’ve got 95% of these books in my own library). The print is large and she uses bold typefaces. Quality/Price Ratio: 80 (a lot of money to pay for a braising book) 20. BOUCHON (Artisan, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 341 pages, ISBN 1-57965- 239-5, $69.95) is by Thomas Keller and Jeffrey Cerciello. Keller developed the wildly successful French Laundry restaurant (and its best-selling cookbook, 212K copies in print). Cerciello has worked with Keller for ten years, and is executive chef at the Bouchon restaurant (since 1998). He did the recipes with writer Susie Heller. Bouchon is part of a chain: there is one in Napa, one in Las Vegas, plus two bakeries in Napa and New York City. This restaurant has more bistro food (less complicated, more casual, a place to hang out), with plenty of slow food with slow browning, braising and roasting. Typical dishes include confit of duck, terrines, steak frites, leg of lamb, onion soup, steamed mussels. But in a real French bistro, you could get a meal for the price of this book! It is oversized, 11.5 x 11.5 inches square, say a square foot…It is too heavy to actually use comfortably, and to flip through its pages. Also, it is hard to photocopy. Not that I advocate breaking copyright, but I just want to copy a few recipes to work with in my kitchen. I am exceedingly messy, and I’d rather spill things on my photocopy rather than the book. With a clothes pin, the photocopy hangs better than the book (which is the heaviest book of the season). But I digress…There are chapters on basic preps and techniques. The arrangement of the book is by course, from hors d’oeuvre (misspelled in the book), to soups, salads, sandwiches, quiches, fish, poultry, pasta, desserts. US measurements are used. Audience and level of use: fans of the French Laundry, schools of hospitality, cookbook collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes: roast chicken (of course), chickpea and carrot salad, rabbit rillettes with prunes, potato and leek soup, frog’s legs. What I don’t like about this book: too many large, overblown pictures. There is no “chicken with 40 gloves of garlic” recipe which is a standard in French bistros. Also, there are NO wine recommendations! What I do like about this book: good index – even “chicken stock” is indexed. Also, sauces are given page references in the recipes themselves. Good photos of the final platings. Quality/Price Ratio: 75 (this is a lot of money to pay for a French bistro book. If you buy it, try Indigo online or Amazon.ca, where book discounts can be as much as 40%.) 21. VINO ITALIANO BUYING GUIDE; the ultimate quick reference to the great wines of Italy (Clarkson Potter, 2004; distr. by Random House Canada, 287 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5287-4, $21 paper covers) is by Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch, both authors of the award-winning (IACP) “Vino Italiano”. In many respects, this book can serve as the update and revision to that book, originally published in 2002. About 1000 wines are listed here, arranged alphabetically by producer. Each entry has a short profile of a leading Italian wine producer, with data on their best and most accessible wines (i.e., available in the US market). There is a huge legend-key to the symbols: wineries are noted as being “elite”, premier, rising star, value or just plain. The keys Continue with wine pricing, availability, names and addresses, phone numbers, websites, and what dining and/or accommodation is available. Ancillary material decodes the Italian wine label, gives a glossary and bibliography, lists 250 recommended wines in all price categories and in all styles (bubblies, whites, reds, rose, fortifieds, etc.). The authors also have vintage charts, a section on grape varietals with valuable data, a list of all DOVG and DOC appellations with details of the region, grapes, aging requirements, and wine types. There is even a special guide to Barolo and Barbaresco vineyards and crus. Audience and level of use: for the committed Italian wine lover, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The big question that arose in the preparation of this guide was whether to rate individual wines”. They rated the wineries instead. What I don’t like about this book: some producers of quality wines are still missing – where is Ascheri of Piedmont? Also, the TNs are pretty slight. What I do like about this book: fairly comprehensive and uptodate, with direct access to the producer through the alphabetical arrangement. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 22. INSPIRED BY INGREDIENTS; market menus and family favorites from a three-star chef (Simon & Schuster, 2004, 358 pages, ISBN 0-7432-4387-0, $49.95) is by Bill Telepan and Andrew Friedman. Telepan is executive chef at JUdson Grill (Manhattan), while Friedman has authored and co- authored several cookbooks (winning an IACP Julia Child award). This is a chef’s cookbook; Telepan spent six years at Judson. There are lots of biographical details on suppliers and farmers within the NYC region plus philosophy (e.g., buy locally, cook seasonally). Chapters cover each season, beginning with Spring, and each has three theme menus, special occasion menus, and make ahead meals. Material is grouped by ingredient or technique. Additional recipes are for classics from the restaurant and some dishes appropriate to all seasons. There are also wine notes for each recipe. The book is all relatively simple but clearly expressed. The 150 recipes are complemented by photos, for about one-third of the preps. Mail order sources are US, as are the measurements (with a metric equivalency table). Audience and level of use: chef cookbook collectors, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes: crusted crab cakes, fettuccine carbonara with asparagus, tomato bread soup, beet greens pierogi What I don’t like about this book: pretty straightforward, nothing to complain about. What I do like about this book: extensive index Quality/Price Ratio: 87. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR NOVEMBER 2004 ================================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!! 1. WINE FOR EVERY DAY AND EVERY OCCASION; red, white and bubbly to celebrate the joy of living (William Morrow, 2004, 294 pages, ISBN 0-06-054817-7, $34.95) is by prominent and influential wine writers Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher. They produce the “Tastings” column for the Wall Street Journal (since 1998), and they have authored other books and articles for the USA market, as well as lectures and TV appearances. Their column is also syndicated to other American newspapers. The book, based on their columns, presents a wide-range of suggestions for using wine to celebrate events. And, of course, you can make up your own event to celebrate, such as “arriving home”. Do not save everything for an occasion that may never come. They advocate an Open That Bottle Night, the last Saturday in February: everybody within reading distance should open a treasured bottle and drink it just for the celebration of having it per se. While they advocate that wine is all about sharing, the reader should note that these writers are married to each other and that they taste (and write) together. They have an automatic “sharing” which many other wine writers do not have in their normal tasting life. Gaiter and Brecher don’t visit wineries, don’t go to trade shows, buy their own wines, and taste at home – together. Sharing comes naturally to them. Topics in the book follow the chronological year, such as a Beaujolais Nouveau party, American Thanksgiving (sparklers, cabs, zinfandels, Rioja), Christmas presents, sparklers at New Year’s eve, Valentine’s Day (bubbly, rose, pinot noir), Oscar night, with suggestions for a wine tasting party, wines to lay down on the birth of a child, restaurant wine lists (plus BYOB and wine bars), wine registries for weddings, anniversaries, saving wine labels. Audience and level of use: beginners, readers of the Wall Street Journal. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Over the years we have received, and personally answered, more than 25,000 letters and emails from readers. These letters have given us a unique perspective on what people really want to know about wine. What we have learned is that people simply want to enjoy wine, especially as part of celebrations and holidays” What I don’t like about this book: still, there are too many excerpts from letters, which take away space from the authors. Only the finest wines get in-depth tasting notes while most of the other wines seem to be enthusiastically received. Also, the index has “American Cabernet Sauvignon”, “American Pinot Noir”, “American roses”, etc., with a cross-reference from the varietal. But it is still an extra step in digging around for information. What I do like about this book: All the wines are indexed by name. The book is interesting to read, it is something different. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 2. THE CONTEMPORARY ENCYCLOPEDIA OF HERBS & SPICES; seasonings for the global kitchen (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 422 pages, ISBN 0-471-21423-X, $57.99) is by Tony Hill, a spice merchant in Seattle, Washington. 350 flavour enhancers are covered, including blends such as Tunisian five- spice-powder and American BBQ powders and dry rubs. 315 pages deal with herbs and spices (from ajwain to zedoary) with 65 pages for the 90 herb and spice blends. There are also 200 small colour photos in a separate section, each with a number as a cross-reference to the main entry. For each entry Hill gives the English language name, alternative English names, botanical name, plant family, region of botanical origin, harvest season, parts used, colour, black and white photo, followed by a description and common uses. Hill’s opinions are also added, and there are a few recipes. For example, under “cassia-cinnamon” he has “triple-rise cinnamon rolls” and “spiced bananas foster”. There are 75 recipes in all, all using US volume measurements. There is also a bibliography for further exploration of the world of herbs and spices. Audience and level of use: “packed with need-to-know information” for hospitality students, libraries, and consumers Some interesting or unusual recipes: Arabic chicken kabsa, overnight cole slaw, Russian white beans with vinegar and walnuts, lavender shortbread. What I don’t like about this book: the colour section is a bit awkward, but probably unavoidable because of the cost of printing. What I do like about this book: the inclusion of herb and spice blends. The book is also easy on the eyes, with lots of white space. The index is thorough and comprehensive. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 3. A TASTE OF MOROCCO (Hachette Illustrated, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 184 pages, ISBN 1-84430-107-9, $39.95) has recipes by Maria Seguin- Tsouli, a culinary advisor to the Arab cultural centre in Paris. The prose is by Marie-Pascale Rauzier, a travel journalist with extensive Moroccan experience. It was originally published in French in 2001; this is the English translation. In its geographical breakdown, the book is divided into three regions: the city of Fes, the Coast, the Marrakech. For each, the 90 recipes (total) are divided into apps and soups, mains, and desserts. The culture of the country is a mix of Berbers, Arabs, Andalusians, Jews, and Ottomans; this ethnic diversity is reflected in their food and cooking. Each subsection here has a discussion on cuisine and culture of the area, with material on such as appropriate copperware, olives, peppers, oranges, mint tea, saffron, herbs, semolinas, bread, dried fruits, wine, honey and dates. More social stuff concerns table layering, marriage traditions, orange flower water, and earthenware. Metric measurements are used, plus imperial volume measurements with accommodation for the US audience. Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, ethnic cookbook collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes: mint and caraway soup, pastille with milk, various tagines, various couscous. What I don’t like about this book: the recipe index is only by course. The typeface and ink used for the ingredients list makes said list difficult to read. What I do like about this book: great photos of food, good cultural material. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 4. ANTHONY BOURDAIN’S LES HALLES COOKBOOK; strategies, recipes, and techniques of classic bistro cooking (Bloomsbury, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 304 pages, ISBN 1-58234-180-X, $48.95) is by the executive chef at NYC’s Les Halles, probably the most successful bistro franchise in the US. Co-authors Jose de Meirelles and Philippe Lajaunie co-own the chain. This is classic French brasserie/bistro food recipes from Manhattan, which he admits are not only standards but also available in other cookbooks. What makes Bourdain’s book unique is that these are the actual recipes used in the restaurant, somewhat scaled down for home use. As such, they require advance work. Thus, he uses an aggressive writing style to psych us up for the work ahead. The publisher’s blurb says, “The beautiful cover is designed for kitchen use – aesthetic yet practical”. I think they mean “dust jacket”, not cover, for if you remove the jacket to examine the cover, you will find a chef-hatted skull with a knife dripping blood! Not in my kitchen, please, thank you very much… There is a gung-ho warm-up speech in the opening chapter, where he emphasizes the three basic principles of cooking: preparation, preparation, and preparation. Get a good knife (and maintain it). Do stocks. He suggests that you find a butcher to do French-cut meat and organ meats, plus perhaps some high-fat charcuterie. There are mail order sources suggested, albeit US only. He also wants you to look to the Slow Food Movement for advice. Each recipe here tells you what equipment is needed and what advance prep work can be done (and when). Both US and metric measurements are given. There is a glossary and a personal bibliography for further reading. Audience and level of use: fans of celebrity chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes: cassoulet, soupe au pistou, soupe de poisson, daube provencal, tarte alsacienne. What I don’t like about this book: if you are going to have attitude, then you must use it correctly (he misuses the phrase “jump the shark”). Also, there are no wine nor beer recommendations (one can always drink the wines of the region). What I do like about this book: the bad boy of cooking is back! a very entertaining read, one of the wittiest cookbooks of the year. Very good index, French and English, dish and ingredient name. Quality/Price Ratio: given that the recipes exist elsewhere, 84. 5. EVERYDAY DINING WITH WINE (Broadway Books, 2004; distr. Random House, 309 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1681-6, $42) is by Andrea Immer, a Master Sommelier and author of many wine books such as “Great Wine Made Simple” and an annual buying guide. She also serves as dean of wine studies at the French Culinary Institute in NYC. and 6. THE WINE LOVER COOKS WITH WINE; great recipes for the essential ingredient (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 0-8118-3022-5, $34.95 paper covers) is by Sid Goldstein, a food and wine writer who was at Fetzer Vineyards one time, co-author of a book with John Ash, and author of “The Wine Lover’s Cookbook”. Both of these books cover the same territory, but in different ways and in different patterns. They are actually complementary, and I cannot recommend one over the other. Immer has 125 recipes (100 for dishes) with an emphasis on minimal fuss and cost; Goldstein has 75 recipes with a strong John Ash connection and sourcing from many other chefs (all acknowledged). Immer’s book is “using simple recipes and cooking techniques, combined with simple wine-pairing principles, to vastly improve everyday meals”. She has more spicy food than Goldstein but less complicated food. Immer has good material on menu planning, cured meats, vegetables, herbs and nuts, and dry-aged cheeses. There are five major ways to enhance a food’s flavours (and hence complicate wine complements): seasoning and searing, roasting vegetables, making a pan sauce, brining, and bedding the sides. Her book is arranged by the weight of the varietal, starting with the riesling and aromatic wines, through sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel. Goldstein’s book is arranged by cooking method, with chapters on steaming, marinating, poaching (e.g., fish), braising (e.g., ribs), and reductions (e.g., sauces). Both books have sections for the obvious sides and desserts. Immer seems to concentrate on American wines (she suggests particular wines by brand name: I have an innate distrust for this type of thing), while Goldstein uses mostly European-styled wines in cooking (most of his food is French, Italian and Spanish, not too heavily spiced). Goldstein recommends wines by varietal. He has a description of the types of wine (light and fruity through full-bodied, and the fortifieds) and how each is to be used in cooking. Each recipe has wine as a major contributing factor. Immer concentrates more on wine pairing rather than wine cooking. For example, Goldstein’s first chapter gets right down to sauces and marinades with recommended varietals for different types of sauces. There is a wine recommendation for what to use in cooking and what to serve when eating (plus alternate choices for serving). He has plenty of tips, as does Immer. Immer also has lots of detail on why particular wines go with particular dishes. She has a wine FAQ section for all the wine basics. And because her book is arranged by varietal, she has nine menus with wine recommendations and page references to the recipes. Goldstein’s bibliography for further reading includes no book by Immer, and indeed, has nothing beyond 1999 except for a small newspaper article. Immer has no bibliography but does include a US source list for mail and online orders. Goldstein’s index includes not only products and ingredients but also names of wines and cookbook writers and chefs used as sources. Both books use US volume measurements but only Goldstein has a metric equivalents table. Audience and level of use: an intermediate level is suggested, although Goldstein’s book may require more experience. Hospitality schools can certainly use both books. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Immer has a fennel and apple has, coddled eggs with cauliflower potato puree, coq au riesling with leeks, tarte tatin. Goldstein puts forth a corn and chive crepe with wild mushrooms (from Napa’s Trilogy), curried scallops with grapefruit and ginger with a white wine butter sauce, and a monkfish tagine (from San Anselmo’s Insalata). What I don’t like about this book: Goldstein needs more braising recipes, while Immer has too much wine material (virtually replacing her earlier books). Also, her view on “seasonal – schmeasonal” food did not resonate with me: it is the opposite of Goldstein. What I do like about this book: Goldstein has alternate wine choices for each recipe; Immer has page references for her menus plus an upfront “course by course” recipe list with page references. Quality/Price Ratio: Immer rates a 91 (hardback, lots of wine data, more recipes) while Goldstein gets a 90 (paperback, more upscale food, fewer recipes). 7. THE REAL GREEK AT HOME; dishes from the heart of the Greek kitchen (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84000- 851-2, $39.95) is by Theodore Kyriakou, chef of London’s The Real Greek restaurant and author of other cookbooks, and Charles Campion, a UK food writer who has collaborated with Kyriakou before. Together they explore the cultural, religious, and economic influences on Greek food. The emphasis here is on home meals, peasant food, with a wide range of recipes from the classics to celebrations (using lamb dishes). The book is divided into three areas, the cities (more sophisticated food), the Ionian islands, and the Aegean islands. Thirty pages are devoted to Greek essential dishes, the various mezzes and dips, and there are chapters for Easter lamb dishes and festival foods. Travel pictures dominate, and there is even one showing the skinning of a dead rabbit. Both metric and imperial measurements are used for each ingredient. Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, consumers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: iman bayeldi, Christmas pork with figs, chicken sofrito, rabbit mountain style, tsoureki Greek Easter bread. What I don’t like about this book: recipes have a demotic Greek script name but these are not indexed nor otherwise listed. Also, there is a small print for the ingredients list. What I do like about this book: seems comprehensive in its approach. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 8. THE PHILOSOPHER’S KITCHEN; recipes from ancient Greece and Rome for the modern cook (Random House, 2004, 250 pages, ISBN 1-4000-6099-0, $50) is by Francine Segan is a food historian (Marymount College) who has appeared on US television many times. She has authored a similarly inspired book, Shakespeare’s Kitchen, dealing with renaissance recipes. Here she picks some ancient recipes (mainly from Apicius’ “On Cookery” with its 478 recipes, plus Cato the Elder and Varro “On Agriculture” and “The Philosopher’s Banquet” from the second century AD or CE) and reproduces their text (in English, of course) with a recreated and updated recipe for today’s home cook. For example, she uses 22 recipes from Apicius. Most ancient recipes have been lost, and in many cases there are only references to titles in the writings of others. The other sources she uses include writings on food and health by physicians (Galen) and philosophers (Plato, Aristotle), personal correspondence and diaries (Cicero, Marcus Aurelius), and archaeological finds with illustrations of daily life as found on vases, drinking vessels, frescoes, floor mosaics, etc. Each recipe is supposed to be placed in historical context of customs and/or superstitions. The only food references that appear to have survived are typical for any period before the nineteenth century: the upper classes that ate well. No real peasant food. Thus, we have an assortment of dishes suitable for a Greek feast or a Roman banquet, with photos of final preps and archaeological finds. There are complementary sidebars about ancient life with quotes from the classic writers. This kind of thing seems to work best for a party or a large crowd. The recipes are arranged by course, from apps to desserts, with US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: food historians, food theme lovers, cookbook collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes: cucumber with raisin coriander vinaigrette, candy nut chews, veal and fig stew, chicken with plums, cheese biscuits with aromatic bay leaves, seared tuna with onion-raisin marmalade. What I don’t like about this book: bibliography is only on translated ancient texts, with no mention of recent books or articles, which could compete with or complement Segan’s book. What I do like about this book: five feast menus with page references (one for each season plus a vegetarian feast), along with sample invitations. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 9. THE SIMPLER THE BETTER; sensational home cooking in 3 easy steps (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 226 pages, ISBN 0-471-48231-5, $35.99) is by Leslie Revsin, a food consultant and chef (she was the first woman chef at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel). The concept of the book is not new, it has been done before. This is just the latest variety. And apparently there is to be a whole series from Wiley based on the concept (minimum effort and maximum flavour for busy people), to cover casseroles, Italian food, and the like. In the present book, there are 100 short recipes for swift cooking. There is also a minimum amount of kitchen equipment and cleanup afterwards. Each dish has three to eight ingredients, with a 30-minute maximum cooking time. Each recipe has tips, variations, and final plating ideas for a final flourish. Some variations include substitution rules, optional ingredients, and alternative cooking methods. This is all basic food suitable for everyday or mild entertaining, with all courses from soups to desserts. Through the expanded table of contents the reader can find 11 soups, 10 pasta and rice dishes, ten fish, etc. There are two pages per recipe, with a 16-page insert of colour photos. US volume measurements, but with no table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: new cooks, busy people, high risers (small kitchen). Some interesting or unusual recipes: green fettuccine with chicken and two cheese, chicken provencale, grilled ginger steak, slow sautéed turnips, tomato couscous. What I don’t like about this book: makes it all look too easy. What I do like about this book: large type, white space, readable, simple instructions. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 10. RIESLING RENAISSANCE (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. McArthur, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84000-777-X, $50) is by Freddy Price, a wine consultant and wine merchant specializing in Riesling (especially German riesling). He says, “Riesling alone makes pure wine, innocent of oak, that precisely reflects its origin, in a range from flowery and feather-light, through tense, dry and mineral-laden, to unctuous and creamy, to a piercing liquor like celestial marmalade.” The rebirth of Riesling has been astonishing. Of course, all it took was for people to get tired of chardonnay. Riesling has no oak (no BF, no BA) and no malolactic fermentation. Here is a history and the heritage of Riesling through nine countries and 15 regions, reflecting both hot and cool climates, diverse terroirs, etc. He has 75 pages for Germany, 25 for Alsace, ten for Austria, even eight for Canada. Australia, New Zealand and the USA are also covered. Under Alsace, Price comments that many Alsatian Rieslings are soft, full and round now…This has been my impression, too, for the past several years, say since the 2000 vintage. There are detailed maps and photos of the areas, plus photos and profiles of important winemakers, producers, and their top vineyard sites. For the top guys there are addresses, size of vineyards (and how much of it is riesling), best sites, and some light tasting descriptions. The book finishes off with a glossary and vintage notes/charts from around the world. Audience and level of use: certainly a great book for the Riesling lover, and wine school students, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: If Riesling itself was too difficult to grow and to make successfully, producers all over the world tried to copy it with other grape varieties: welschriesling, riesling italico, Emerald riesling, Gray riesling. What I don’t like about this book: there was a typo for Hermann Weis (too many “s”). I’d like some food matches with Riesling, as well as more tasting notes. What I do like about this book: there is an extensive bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 11. CELEBRATIONS 101 (Broadway Books, 2004; distr. by Random House, 293 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1464-3, $42) is by Rick Rodgers, a professional cookbook author and TV chef. His other books have included Thanksgiving, Christmas, and BBQ at the “10l” level. In the current book are 20 menus, with a total of 100 recipes for entertaining at New Year’s, Mardi Gras, Easter, Passover, Mother’s Day, Christmas Eve, etc.,, and all of it celebratory of course. Shopping lists, preparations, and timetables are very important, and they are given upfront for each menu configuration. Other than that, this is standard food fare, with multiple courses (including easy salads and desserts), serving 12 or so. Rodgers concludes with an equipment list for a large pantry. Audience and level of use: for those who entertain, and need help. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chicken and shrimp etouffee, Cajun ratatouille, baked mascarpone-stuffed French toast, pork tenderloin tonnato. What I don’t like about this book: you’ll need a large equipment area for pots and pans you may rarely use, unless you entertain a lot. What I do like about this book: nice large print in the index. Quality/Price Ratio: 80. 12. THE ONLY WINE BOOK YOU’LL EVER NEED (Adams Media, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 278 pages, ISBN 1-59337-101-2, $12.95 paper covers) is by Danny May, an American wine wholesaler-retailer. It contains portions of material adapted and abridged from his “The Everything Wine Book”, published in 1997. I’d hesitate to use the word “only”, but through his simplified approach it does cover the basics. Unfortunately, some of these basics are purely US (such as restaurants, pricing structures, and retail store chats). He tries to answer such questions as: what are good wines? why are wines categorized by region and/or variety? what is the winemaking process? what flaws do I watch out for? do I have the right wine for the right occasion? how do I serve wine? how do I pair food with wine? His discussion on grape varieties indicates both flavours and partner grapes, such as the components of a Bordeaux blend. There are some recommended wines plus a long, obligatory glossary. May’s book is a basic and cheap wine book. You can always update your knowledge by buying an annual wine guide (Clarke, Immer, Johnson, Stevenson, et al.) and the Internet. Audience and level of use: beginners, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “You know you’ve crossed the line from a casual wine buff to a serious wine collector when you start buying wine futures”. What I don’t like about this book: the bibliography has not been updated at all since his last book. What I do like about this book: the index has direct page access to pairing wines with food, under the entry “food pairings”. He also has an up-to-date website reference guide. Quality/Price Ratio: fabulous price gives it a 90. 13. JACQUES PEPIN FAST FOOD MY WAY (Houghton Mifflin, 2004; distr. by T. Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 0-618-39312-9, $45) is a companion to the 26- part PBS series that seeks to create simple, special meals in minutes. The 140 recipes are straightforward, and while arranged by course, there are 26 menus (“as seen on public television”) with page references to follow along with each show. He also has a TV tip of the week, with 26 more quickly done dishes. Two of the recipes here are labeled “instant” (and indexed thusly): instant beef tenderloin stew (ten minute cooking time, but no gravy) and instant vegetable soup (which is a pre-vegetable stock with flavour derived from added olive oil and gruyere cheese). He advocates use of the pressure cooker and microwave. Canned food is also useful for beans, tomatoes, peaches, and tuna, as is “ready food” (cheese, olives, smoked fish and smoked meats), condiments, purchased brioche, pound cake, and bread. Some of these preps are make aheads (hours, days), but all of them are indeed quick. Bear this in mind: it is labour intensive, and there is some competitive spirit of a contest in how fast one can make a dish. With Jacques Pepin at the helm, this is larder/pantry cooking at its finest, and the complete opposite of Anthony Bourdain (see above). Audience and level of use: intermediate experience, fans of Jacques Pepin (he has appeared in over 300 shows!), restaurants looking for new ideas. Some interesting or unusual recipes: smoked salmon timbales, parsley and pumpkin seed salad, wonton cannelloni in tomato sauce, thirty- minute cassoulet. What I don’t like about this book: a very light typeface makes his comments on each recipe difficult to read. Some wine recommendations would have been appreciated. What I do like about this book: nicely put together, great photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 14. GERONIMO; fine dining in Santa Fe (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 232 pages, ISBN 1-58008-491-5, $72) is by Cliff Skoglund (founder), Eric DeStefano (chef), and Chris Harvey (partner) from the eponymous restaurant in Santa Fe. The establishment is in a 250-year-old hacienda on trendy Canyon Road, named after the builder (1756). A brief history of the restaurant, along with illustrations, is given at the front. The food is not all New Mexican, but rather “fine dining”. The 125 recipes here emphasize its uniqueness, and thereby raise the required skills level. “We know that some of the techniques we describe may seem a bit daunting”. The easy answer for us is to be prepared. Read through the recipes a few times, check our equipment and larder, and hunt down those hard-to-find items for the meal. There is a source list here, but it is all US only. The recipe instructions are clear, logical but lengthy. There is a section on techniques and preparing basic pantry items. The work ends with a glossary and index. Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, celebrity chef fans, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: rabbit saddle with matzo scallion dumplings, morel mushroom tarts with foie gras and black truffles, braised celery soup with mini-manicotti stuffed with celery puree and fresh ricotta cheese, poire Williams soup with warm bosc pears and star anise ice cream and black pepper genoise. What I don’t like about this book: needs more detail on final plating (ideas and variations). What I do like about this book: great photographs. Quality/Price Ratio: at $72, this one is an 83. 15. GRATINS; savory and sweet recipes from oven to table (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 118 pages, ISBN 1-58008-623-3, $27.50 paper covers) is by Tina Salter, cookbook author and culinary producer for a variety of public broadcasting food shows. Gratins have all the components for comfort food: a creamy interior and a crunchy-crispy top. They are also versatile since they can be savoury or sweet. These 50 recipes – classics and new dishes -- are for all courses, and they are mostly baked. The basic ingredients are the topping (usually breadcrumbs) which is very important since it must be crisp, and cheese with milk or cream for the interior. Little prep time is needed, but one does require equipment such as gratin dishes (preferred) or ramekins. Throughout the book Salter strews tips and advice on how to make gratins (which are essentially casseroles) more upscale and socially acceptable to guests. The resources list is all US, as are the volume measurements, although there is a table of equivalents for US-metric- Imperial forms. Audience and level of use: beginner, single purpose cookbook. Some interesting or unusual recipes: gratineed kale and bacon soup, tangelo custard gratin, potato-parmesan gnocchi gratin, tomato and chevre gratin. What I don’t like about this book: the book is a bit short; I want more recipes at this price level. Also, in view of Salter’s attempts to make gratins more upscale, she should have added some wine recommendations. What I do like about this book: photos of plated preps. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 16. THE EVERYTHING FONDUE COOKBOOK; 300 creative ideas for any occasion (Adams Media, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 261 pages, ISBN 1- 59337-119-5, $22.95) is by Rhonda Lauret Parkinson, a Canadian freelance writer and cookbook author. The Everything series is similar to Dummies, Idiot’s, KISS, etc…The 300 recipes here – for all occasions and all sizes of groups -- seem to be all basic with many variations, from snacks and appetizers to entrees and desserts. Welcome to the sixties! Four bases are used: cheese (31 recipes), broth (Asian hot pot style), oil (fondue bourguignonne, bagna cauda), and chocolate. There are 45 dips and sauces. Parkinson also includes 16 menu suggestions and seven different styles of bread dippers. Along the way, she also has a chapter on “ethnic” fondues (23 of these, including tiramisu). There is an important chapter on etiquette and safety (especially useful for oil fondues), how to buy and use a fondue pot, table accessories, and ramekins. Audience and level of use: beginner level, and idea seekers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: ricotta cheese in apple cider, garlic fondue, chicken hotpot style, fondue tandoori chicken. What I don’t like about this book: there are no wine recommendations, and there is no mention of raclette. What I do like about this book: online US shopping resources, menu suggestions have page references. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 17. MUSHROOMS (Conran Octopus, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 96 pages, ISBN 1-84091-405-X, $19.95) is by Jacque Malouf is an Australian food writer and stylist, now living and working in London. It is one of a series of hardback books from Conran, in standard format, with 70 recipes apiece and little information about the main ingredient, preferring to concentrate on upscale recipes and quality photos of plated preps. Most British cookbooks assume that the reader knows something about food, and build on this knowledge. I like that attitude! The recipes here concern shitake, oyster, crimini, porcini, enoki, portabello, cloud ear, trompettes de mort, morel, truffles. But of course, many recipes can allow for substitution of mushroom types. Course arrangement includes soups, salads, grains, pies and tarts, meat and fish, eggs and veggies, plus finger food suitable for parties. All have prep times indicated, and all come with both metric and imperial measurements (good for the Canadian market). Audience and level of use: single ingredient book, intermediate level of experience. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sausage and sage and crimini mushroom with chestnut stuffing balls, veal escalopes with pied de mouton mushrooms and sorrel and cognac, baked gnocchi with sautéed trompettes de mort and pied blue mushrooms in a gorgonzola cream sauce. What I don’t like about this book: no discussion on mushrooms, except a bit on how to buy. What I do like about this book: packs a lot into a medium-priced book. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 18. APPLES (Conran Octopus, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 96 pages, ISBN 1- 84091-404-1, $19.95) is by Louise Mackaness, a UK freelance food writer and stylist. It is one of a series of hardback books from Conran, in standard format, with 70 recipes apiece and little information about the main ingredient, preferring to concentrate on upscale recipes and quality photos of plated preps. All courses are covered, from starters to mains to teatime treats, desserts, sauces, juices, and preserves. All have prep times indicated, and all come with both metric and imperial measurements (good for the Canadian market). Audience and level of use: single ingredient cookbook, intermediate level. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pork kebabs and chorizo with apple, apple clafoutis, butternut squash and apple soup, carrot and apple and coconut muffins. What I don’t like about this book: no discussion on apples, not even on how to buy or what varieties work best in cooking. What I do like about this book: packs a lot in, good photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 19. EASY APPETIZERS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-719-9, $19.95) has been put together by a team of five food writers. Recipes credited to each of them are on page 64 of the book. Since there are only 28 recipes, this works out to five and a half apiece – on average. These are all simple first courses, categorized into soups and salads, dips and bread, seafood, meats, and vegetarian. Many similar recipes are available from other sources. US volume measurements are used. Most of the dishes can be made ahead. Audience and level of use: beginner to intermediate. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Tuscan panzanella, pear and romano and pea crostini, warm goat cheese soufflé, pepperoni farciti. What I don’t like about this book: way too brief. Some recipes don’t answer all questions, e.g., the basic tomato soup calls for basil with also a pesto option. Why bother? It should be one or the other, not both (even if optional). What I do like about this book: good photography of the final plating. Quality/Price Ratio: 76. 20. FRESH; great simple seafood (Michael Joseph, 2004; distr. by Penguin, 214 pages, ISBN 0-718-14628-X, $45) is by Mitchell Tonks, founder of the FishWorks fishmongers, restaurants and cookery schools in London, Bath, Bristol and Christchurch. He begins with a discussion on the different types of seafood available (mainly to the UK market) followed by how to buy seafood. He has great photos to show you these elements, including photoed techniques to illustrate cleaning and cooking. The recipes are a mixed bag, for the most part divided into three sections dealing with the topics of special occasions, easy dishes for guests, and family style. But they are interchangeable. There is also a chapter on saucing, spice mixes, marinades, and vinegar. And a chapter on picnics and side dishes. Most of this book’s illustrations are of freshly caught seafood, but some are of people (too many are of Tonks) and others are of the plated food. Metric measurements are given. Audience and level of use: seafood lovers, intermediate level, celebrity chef collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes: cod steaks with potato gnocchi and chili, zarzuela (fish stew), fried swordfish Milanese style with oregano and anchovies, linguine with scallops and artichokes and walnuts. What I don’t like about this book: the ingredients list is just simply strung out, separated by dashes. The restaurant listings have only eight places, four of which are his. There are no wine recommendations. What I do like about this book: large, well-presented index with bold face used for illustrations. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 21. ROASTING; meat, fish, vegetables, sauces and more (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. T.Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-705-9, $36.95) is by Sonia Stevenson, a Master Chef in the UK, and first woman chef in the UK to get a Michelin star for her restaurant. She is now retired, and apparently busier than ever with TV appearances and writing cookbooks. She divides her book into sections: roasting vegetables, roasting fish, doing poultry and game, meat, stuffing and sauces. It is straightforward, and she claims that it is easier to do than “boiling”. While it may be easy work, there is still the advance prep and the finishing up afterwards. There are different cooking methods here: in oil, on a rack, over liquid, or off-the-bone. Ovens need to be pre- heated, of course, and you will need an instant-read meat thermometer. There are some recipes for sides (red cabbage, roast apples, candied yams, bacon rolls) and for gravies, sauces, relishes, and stuffings. Directions for carving are also given. Websites and mail addresses are listed for US suppliers. While US volume measurements are given, there is a tri-part conversion chart for American, Metric and Imperial measures for volume, weight, and oven temperatures. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sweet potatoes en brochette, Italian roast chicken with salami stuffing, slow-roasted breast of veal, slow-roasted lamb shanks with tex-mex spices. What I don’t like about this book: at about 50 recipes, it seems a little short; it could use a few more. Also, brining as a prep technique is not mentioned. There is tiny print for ingredient quantities, especially for the fractions. What I do like about this book: illustrated material on principles of carving. Good photos of finished roasts. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR OCTOBER 2004 =============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!! 1. A CULINARY JOURNEY IN GASCONY; recipes and stories from my French canal boat (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 192 pages, ISBN 1-58008-567-9, $25.95 paper covers) is by Kate Hill, who has lived and chefed on a canal in Gascony for the past 17 years. Her book was originally published in 1995, and it has now been brought back into print with some changes and a general updating. She plies the Canal Lateral a la Garonne, with a canal side cooking school and a floating home (century- old Dutch canal barge called “Julia Hoyt”. Here she presents an armchair traveler book, suitable as a memoir for her previous students/tourists, with 80 or so recipes reflecting a Gascon influence. Another way to look at it: this is galley cooking at its best, useful for those living in an apartment or condominium high rise. She arranges the chapters by a six-day agenda, mirroring her cooking school program. The first day is apps, then soups, entrees, mains, veggies, and desserts. She completes the book with an ingredients list, glossary, and a sources list. Audience and level of use: tourists, armchair travelers, cooking school devotees. Some interesting or unusual recipes: les roties salees, red pepper and anchovy boats, tomato tart, brochettes d’Agen, canard aux olives. What I don’t like about this book: I’d prefer more recipes. In addition, there is not much on the local wines, and just one page on Armagnac. What I do like about this book: uses both metric and US volume measurements. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 2. SAVORING SAVANNAH; feasts from the low country (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 149 pages, ISBN 1-58008-583-0, $29.95 paper covers) is by five chefs (two are now caterers) whose styles range from traditional Savannah, Georgia, cooking to “New Southern cuisine”. It is a good example of a regional cookbook, and it was originally published in hardback in 2001. Each chef contributed two feast menus, ten in all, about 65 recipes total. Elizabeth Terry has a luncheon and formal dinner, Bernard McDonough has a picnic and a game dinner, George Spriggs does a beach party, Susan Mason has a plantation picnic, while Joe Randall has both a brunch and a buffet. Each menu, thoughtfully put together, serves four, six or 8. There is also a lot of material about local customs and lore, the spirit of the region. There are New Southern cuisine dishes for upscale variations of the heart of Deep South cooking: black-eyed peas, corn, sweet potatoes, oysters, collard greens, peaches, and grits. US measurements, of course. Audience and level of use: collectors of regional books, armchair travelers. Some interesting or unusual facts: sesame chicken and black-eyed pea salad, salmon cakes, pecan rolls with sticky topping, chorizo and lentil and potato ragout. What I don’t like about this book: too few recipes for the money. What I do like about this book: best menus here are for the brunch and buffet. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 3. TWELVE MONTHS OF MONASTERY SALADS; 200 divine recipes for all seasons (Harvard Common Press, 2004; distr. by National Book Network, 256 pages, ISBN 1-55832-277-9, $22.95US) is by Brother Victor-Antoine d’Avila-Latourrette, a multiple cookbook author at Our Lady of the Resurrection Monastery, near Millbrook, NY. This current book is being billed as a companion to the best-selling “Twelve Months of Monastery Soups” what has sold an astonishing 300,000 copies. There are salads here for first courses, main courses, and sides: all are simple, wholesome and good tasting. Brother Victor has arranged the book to follow the January – December calendar, with 16 or so preps a month. This makes sense in following a Christian calendar, but little sense in laying out the book by the seasonal vegetables. What’s the difference between December and January? They are both cold winter months in the northern hemisphere. Global cuisine is stressed, with Italian, French, Greek, Japanese and Middle Eastern creations. Some can be prepared ahead of time. Additional recipes are given for vinaigrettes, dressings, flavoured oils, and vinegars. Most of the salads are great preps for using leftover fruit and veggies. Brother Victor has a special listing of types of salads, with appropriate page references (e.g., pasta salads, exotic salads, French salads). While US volume measurements are used, there is a table of equivalents for metric users. Audience and level of use: working people, also owner-operators for ideas. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Spartan carrot salad, Spanish salad, rainbow salad, Riviera cantaloupe salad. What I don’t like about this book: too many inspirational quotes and woodcut illustrations for me. What I do like about this book: the book is terrific for ideas. There is an ingredient and a name index. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 4. CABERNET SAUVIGNON; discovering exploring enjoying (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-701-6, $19.95) And 5. CHARDONNAY; discovering exploring enjoying (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-699-0, $19.95) are both by UK wine and food writer-editor Chris Losh. Both books cover the basics of what cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are all about: what to look for in tasting them, stylistic differences around the world, and some food and wine matches. Thus, for the cab there is Bordeaux plus some of the rest of Europe, California, Chile, Argentina, Coonawarra and Margaret River in Oz, South Africa. For chardonnay, there is Chablis, California, the Cote d’Or. Both books have notes on soils and differences, storing and serving, and recommended wineries for each region. Audience and level of use: beginning wine buff, gift book What I don’t like about this book: too brief What I do like about this book: basic stuff, clearly explained. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 6. TRATTORIA; Italian food for family and friends (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 256 pages, ISBN 1-84000-916-0, $39.95) is by Ursula Ferrigno, who runs cookery courses and who has authored other books about Italian food, all published by Mitchell Beazley. And 7. TRATTORIA; Italian Country recipes for home cooks (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84172-709-1, $36.95) is by Maxine Clark, a UK food writer and cooking teacher for Leith’s of London and Italian cooking schools. She has authored other books about Italian food, all published by Ryland Peters & Small. Both books are, on the surface, quite similar in intent. Nevertheless, there are major differences. The Ferrigno book is more true to trattorias as a restaurant, as an Italian equal to the French bistro. The recipes are sourced from chefs at trattorias, as well as Ferrigno’s modified classics. The Clark book has more gorgeous photos (each recipe is accompanied by a food-styled photo for a presentation idea), but the source material is more just dressed-up home-style recipes. There is surprisingly little duplication between the two books. Each has two polenta recipes. Ferrigno uses 130 recipes, while Clark has only 65. Yet the price difference is but a mere three dollars. Clark has Italian and American website sources and metric measurement conversion charts. In Ferrigno’s book, both imperial and metric measurements are used, and thus the book is preferable for Canadian usage. Audience and level of use: Clark – basic; Ferrigno – intermediate plus some armchair travel Some interesting or unusual recipes: Clark – marinated antipasti, creamy tomato and bread soup, ribollita, pasta e fagioli, gnocchi alla romana; Ferrigno – carabiniere a cavallo, insalata chiantigiana, canazzo, stuffed apricots. What I don’t like about this book: Clark – too short; Ferrigno – travel pictures. What I do like about this book: Clark – gorgeous photos and layout; Ferrigno – more closer to trattorias, more pungent and spicy recipes, and all the recipes are sourced as to original chef or cook. Quality/Price Ratio: 89 for Ferrigno (only three bucks more), 84 for Clark. 8. THE NEW SPAIN (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 224 pages, ISBN 1-84000-928-4, $50) is a second edition, by John Radford, a UK wine writer who specializes in Spanish wines. The first edition was published in 1998, and of course, there have been enormous changes in the past six years. The current book reflects those changes, and it has been largely rewritten. This is one of a series from Mitchell Beazley, the “New” series, following on The New France and The New Italy. “New” Spain generally began with EU entry, and this led to a major revision of Spanish wine laws in 2003 (included in the book, of course). Most recent changes emphasize the movement of major bodegas into minor wine growing areas, such as Marques de Grinon and Osborne in Malpica, Gonzalez-Byass at Finca Otero, Martinez in La Mancha. They use both international and indigenous grape varieties, and newer methods of viticulture and vinification. If the demand is there, then they will produce wine, albeit a wine for the export North American market. Radford goes into soil types, vineyard classification, labels, and grape varieties. His book has 150 colour photos and maps, as well as many websites and email addresses for the regions and producers. He stresses that the reader can always go over to the website for more details and for more up-to-date information. This allows him to have more space to include more wineries. As it is, he has thumbnail profiles of producers (with hard facts such as hectares, date established, grapes used, general quality of wine). Additional data here includes a glossary, statistics of vineyards and production, plus an index to mainly proper names. This is a very stylish, well-put together book. Audience and level of use: useful as a gift book, travel book, and for Spanish wine lovers, wine agents, government monopolies, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Terra Alta has not really changed since the 1998 edition, although big things were predicted and expected in the forecast for improvement. What I don’t like about this book: no real TNs What I do like about this book: there colour coded tabs for each of the seven broad regions. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 9. VATCH’S THAI COOKBOOK; 150 recipes with guide to essential ingredients (Pavilion, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 1- 86205-663-3, $24.95 paper covers) is by Vatcharin Bhumichitr who also wrote Vatch’s Curry Book and owns the Chiang Mai restaurant in London. It was originally published in 1994; this is a straight paperback reprint. The book is arranged both by the principal ingredients of Thai cooking (39 of them) and by one of four main gastronomic regions (Bangkok, Mekong, South and North). It is fairly comprehensive, with ingredient quantities being listed by weight, volume, Imperial and metric measurements. The source list for Thai ingredients is for both US and UK markets, but it is not clear whether it has been updated or not (no 2004 copyright has been claimed). Audience and level of use: travelers, food students. Some interesting or unusual recipes: hot and sour bamboo salad, spare rib and tamarind soup, squid stuffed with pork and galangal. What I don’t like about this book: the typeface is exceedingly tiny, with anywhere from one to four recipes on a page. What I do like about this book: thorough scope, good photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 10. CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING WINE; discovering exploring enjoying (Ryland Peters & Small, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1- 84172-697-4, $19.95) is by Fiona Beckett, an award-winning UK wine and food writer (www.foodandwinematching.co.uk) who has written many books for Ryland Peters and Small. The book is quite similar to Losh’s books (see above) on cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. She deals with the production of sparkling wine around the world, discusses terroir, buying and storage, serving, cocktails, etc. Of course, she has pages dealing with food matchups, beginning with the classic combinations. There is a glossary of terms. Neatly done in a short space. Audience and level of use: beginner, gift. Some interesting or unusual facts: Outside Champagne, northern California and New Zealand produce the world’s best sparkling wine. What I don’t like about this book: Beckett could have devoted a bit more space on naming some great and reasonable alternatives to Champagne, to make the book more consumer-friendly. What I do like about this book: websites are listed for additional material, as well as glossaries to the lingo. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 11. DELICIOUS DIPS (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 124 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4220-7, $23.95) is by Diane Morgan, a cooking instructor, magazine food writer, and multiple cookbook author for Chronicle Books. The fifty recipes here are for sweet and/or savoury dips, which can be turned into sandwich spreads (similarly, sandwich spreads can be turned into dips by simply adding more liquid such as a dairy product). Her categories are veggie dips, salsas and guacamoles, cheese and legume dips (with some fondues here, plus some purees that have been turning up as replacements for butter in some of the finer diners), meat and seafood dips, and dessert dips. Most preps are illustrated with a colour pix of the plate. She has 13 different things to convert into dippers and chippers, including bagels, pitas, tortillas, and veggies (although the latter would probably be preferred by the low-carb lovers). Moreover, there is a roasting chapter for handling peppers, nuts, spices, and garlic. Just about every dip can be made ahead one to three days (this is indicated, but do watch the avocado), and there is a clear suggestion for what kind of chip can accompany the dip (crostini, chips, crudités, etc.). Still, for such a slight book, the acknowledgement page goes on and on, naming several dozen people. Audience and level of use: happy hour ideas, party crowds, sandwiches. Some interesting or unusual recipes: roasted red pepper with sun-dried tomato and basil spread, fig and kalamata olive tapenade, pineapple- habanero salsa, chorizo chile con queso. What I don’t like about this book: deep frying techniques are explored but there is no mention of baking or toasting (as a way to keep calories down) until the end of the book. What I do like about this book: good index. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 12. TAPAS MADE EASY (New Holland, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 79 pages, ISBN 1-84330-827-4, $19.95 paper covers) is by Tomas Garcia, a food, sport, and music writer. This is civilized bar food, upscale pub grub. He includes authentic staples such as sausage slices, tortilla Espanola, patatas bravas, as well as global cuisine. But the latter begins to border on being regular apps, found in many restaurants in larger portions. I guess the size progression would be amuse gueule in a spoon, tapa, appetizer, main. Anyway, these are all easy enough to prepare for a crowd or for general entertaining. There is no need to push it as being particularly Spanish. Four chapters cover cocktail sticks, skewers, tortas, and tartaletas. He has 21 basic recipes plus several dozen more as variations, many with photos. US volume measurements are used, as well as listing US suppliers (plus one from Spain). Audience and level of use: the busy entertainer. Some interesting or unusual recipes: fish croquettes, albondigas, huevos rellenos, chickpea and pimento toasts. What I don’t like about this book: typeface is a tad too small. What I do like about this book: pantry list, great photography. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 13. THE MARATHON CHEF; food for getting fit (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 2003; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-841-8823-6, $26.95 paper covers) is by Michel Roux, Jr., London chef at La Gavroche since 1991. He is also a marathon runner, successfully completing eight marathons. He gave up smoking ten years ago, and began running to keep his weight down. This book is the paperback reprint. There are over 100 recipes, nutritionally sound and designed to sustain runners’ bodies over a 26-mile run (and also while in training). His notes on the food part of preparing for a marathon cover twenty pages, and include what NOT to eat the night before a run. There is a training menu for one week, with recipes in the book. Roux has chapters on breakfasts, breads, soups to desserts. And not too much red meats, emphasizing chicken and seafood. Most of the preps are high in carbs and medium in fats. He uses mostly low Glycemic Index foods. Audience and level of use: runners, celebrity chef fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes: welsh pikelets, praline and chocolate spread, lentil soup with thyme, quinoa and broad beans with garlic and coriander pesto. What I don’t like about this book: metric and imperial measurements are mixed together. The index typeface is teeny tiny. Also, I didn’t need to see so many photos of Roux running. What I do like about this book: unique angle, excellent photos of final plating. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 14. THE FEARLESS CHEF; innovative recipes from the edge of American cuisine (Adams Media, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 304 pages, ISBN 1-59337-092-X, $25.95 paper covers) is by Andy Husbands, owner of four Boston restaurants and deeply committed to hunger relief programs, and by Joe Yonan, travel editor for the Boston Globe. While the book claims he owns four restaurants, only three are described (there is no mention of Sister Sorel except the inclusion of one recipe). The emphasis here is on bold flavours, concentrating on prep work of sauces, chutneys and salsas, spiced rubs. The global cuisine deals with Ethiopia, Creole-Cajun, BBQ, North African, Mexican, Japanese, Vietnamese, and curries. Most recipes call for some of these preps to be included. So the home chef is going to need some kind of a larder or pantry. A full range of courses is presented: apps, salads, soups, rice and beans, veggies, seafood, meat, and sweets. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: adventuresome cooks, celebrity chef followers, gusto food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: scallops with cherries, rosemary arancini, grilled asparagus with bacon, curry seared tuna with coconut sauce. What I don’t like about this book: spare me the different typefaces, colours, and layout of the recipes; too confusing for the older folks. What I do like about this book: index has many cross-references, the recipes (despite my reservations on the layout) do have large typeface. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 15. THE OLIVE AND THE CAPER; adventures in Greek cooking (Workman Publishing, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 590 pages, ISBN 1-56305-848-0, $28.95 paper covers) is by Susanna Hoffman, an anthropologist and cook who had lived and worked in Greece off and on for more than 30 years. She has also co-authored several other cookbooks. Her book is part history, part travelogue, part food. There are anthropological essays on the origins of Greek food, village life, social customs that need food. After that, it is on to the food through 250 recipes presented in a colourful fashion. She gives some historical context for each recipe, covers regional specialties and variations, and gives plenty of other details in lots of sidebars. There are menus – with page references – scattered throughout. Major topics are beverages (although wine only gets 5 pages), meze (fifty pages here), savoury pies, bread, soup, salads, veggies, meat, seafood, and sweets. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: those who loved peasant food, travelers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves), mushrooms marinated in wine, souvlakia, makaronada. What I don’t like about this book: unfortunately, the menus are not indexed under “menus”, so they are difficult to retrieve. The eclectic layout will appeal to younger readers. What I do like about this book: lots of photos, colour, and extensive bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 16. LOBEL’S PRIME CUTS; the best meat and poultry recipes from America’s master butchers (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 248 pages, ISBN 1-8118-4063-8, $41.95) is by the Lobel boys: Stanley, Leon, Evan, Mark, and David (two brothers and three sons) who now operate M.Lobel and Sons in New York city. Food writer Mary Goodbody has helped them. The 100 recipes cover a range of cuts and cooking styles. They comment that braising and slow roasting are the latest trends, and these styles have their sections. The basic comment is on how to get the most from the leaner and smaller cuts of today. Organic and free-range meats are also noted, as is game. Each chapter gives a description of cuts, along with some knife recommendations. Proper cooking times and temperatures are stressed. If you need more ideas or recipes, you could go to their lobels.com website. Audience and level of use: a butcher’s book, as well being great for the meat lover. Some interesting or unusual recipes: lamb burgers with pistachio nuts and cucumber with yogurt and mint, southern pan-fried ham steaks with grits and wilted greens and peach relish, rabbit braised in red wine with prunes. What I don’t like about this book: the photos do not inspire me, may be because they are all about basic hearty food, which needs a certain styling. There are also no wine recommendations that I feel are certainly needed to enhance the value of the book. What I do like about this book: large enough typeface. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 17. GOOD FOOD FOR FRIENDS; over 175 recipes and ideas for easy entertaining (BBC Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 0- 563-48784-4, $24.95 paper covers) is the paperback reissue of a 2001 hard cover book. Recipes were by the BBC Good Food Magazine team (Mary Cadogan, Angela Nilsen, Vicky Musselman, and Kate Moseley). Each chapter has a basic technique with step-by-step instructions, advice on scaling up for larger groups, wine notes, and final plate photos. Also, there is usually a second photo showing the in-process dish. This is the fifth title in a series from the magazine, and most recipes were previously published in the mag. There are 12 suggested menus, with page references and final plate photos (so you can actually see what the final meal would look like!). These menus cover picnics, lunches, bunches, buffets, formal dinners, and the like. Audience and level of use: beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes: pea and watercress soup, tomato and dolcelatte canzone, goat cheese and onion tart, prune and marzipan tart. What I don’t like about this book: many dishes are typically British in style. What I do like about this book: both Imperial and metric measurements are used; this is good for Canadians. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 18. EATING YOUR WORDS (Oxford University Press, 2004, 258 pages, ISBN 0-19-517405-2, $24.95) has been edited by William Grimes, former restaurant reviewer for the New York Times. 2000 words on food and wine are presented, in alphabetical order (acorn squash to zwieback). Food includes candies, desserts, fruits, vegetables, sauces, dressings, meats, spices, herbs, cheeses, cocktails, cuts of meat. The chosen words are global in scope and in definition. Each entry has a pronunciation guide, word origin, and word usage (if needed). For example, the entry under “mulligatawny” is (Tamil)=milaku-tanni (pepper water). Some short entries are almost too brief: they want for more description. But in his introduction, for “ficelle”, at one point he says “(literally, stick)” and later in the same sentence he says “string”: which is it? And then he doesn’t even put it into the dictionary nor cross-reference it to baguette, the main entry. Distributed throughout the book are mini-essays by other writers on regional food snacks, timelines, diner slang, fad diets, websites, etc. Audience and level of use: the curious, hospitality schools, libraries, word freaks. Some interesting or unusual facts: Jordan almonds are a variety grown chiefly in Spain, or they could be any almond with a hard sugar coating. What I don’t like about this book: the miscellaneous sections on food and wine topics scattered throughout the book intrude on the alphabetical arrangement, and they are not indexed. There are also some typos. What I do like about this book: etymology and history of food words are very interesting. There is a good listing of websites dealing with non- recipe food matters, principally historical. Quality/Price Ratio: 94. 19. EATING WITH THE VICTORIANS (Sutton Publishing, 2004; distr. by National Book Network, 174 pages, ISBN 0-7509-3551-0, $22.95 paper covers) has been edited by C.Anne Wilson, co-founder of the Leeds Symposium on Food History and long-time British food writer-historian. It was originally issued in 1994, and has now been reissued in paperback with slight changes. Six different authors contributed essays. The book is arranged by meal through one day, from breakfast to supper. During the Victorian period, meal-taking amongst the upper classes was apparently based on the needs of showing social rank rather than on nourishment. The huge British breakfast and the tea were also Victorian (from Mrs. Beeton’s, 1880 ed.). Chapter three deals with Victorian cookery literature, and tries to explain the proliferation of cookbooks and the rise of Mrs. Beeton (with more leisure time for the upper classes, there was more interest in the home and in cooking). There are black and white historical illustrations, a bibliography, and end notes in this scholarly production. Audience and level of use: culinary historians, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: Luncheon was brand new in 1837, when Victoria was on the throne. Why? It was devised by ladies who needed to fill their day. What I don’t like about this book: unfortunately, it is pricey. What I do like about this book: comprehensive index, fascinating account. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 20. GOURMET MEALS IN MINUTES (Lebhar-Friedman Books, 2004; distr. by National Book Network, ISBN 0-86730-904-0, 372 pages, $55) is from the Culinary Institute of America, and is meant for consumers. As such, it immediately rises to the top of the heap for general upscale cookbooks. Two hundred recipes in this large team effort run the gamut from apps, mains, sides and desserts. The purpose is quick preparation for the worker. So there are lots of details on how to master time-saving techniques for efficient work in the kitchen. Every step is illustrated. All one really needs is advanced planning, sharp shopping, and an organized kitchen. Sure, and I know lots of people who think that way…Anyway, one will need a larder, a freezer and a pantry. Three major ethnic pantries are noted: Latin American, Asian, and the Mediterranean Rim. Equipment is discussed, as well as knives. Prep times are indicated in each recipe. US measurements, of course. Audience and level of use: harried worker? basic appeal. Some interesting or unusual recipes: grilled steak salad, fiery fruit salsa, chicken curry with almonds, asparagus with morels. What I don’t like about this book: while I admire the scope, I think it overreaches. Some of the pages are difficult to read because of the typeface. What I do like about this book: a good attempt…now, if only people will fall into place. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. 21. BAKING AT HOME WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 304 pages, ISBN 0-471-45095-2, $57.99) is the second such book to hand this month (see above, Gourmet Meals in Minutes). The CIA is beginning to produce books for home chefs. Disclaimer: my nephew was in the CIA professional baker program a few years back. These are the classic and the modern baked goods, beginning with basic techniques (from the basics you moved to make the connections, to connect the baking dots). The 300 streamlined recipes plus variations and techniques include yeast breads, quick breads, cookies, pies and tarts, cakes and tortes, custards and puddings, frozen desserts, pastries, chocolates and confections, icings, glazes, and sauces. Each chapter has techniques (with how-to photos) and recipes. For example, the last chapter has starch slurries, whipping cream, butter cream, glazing a cake, icing a cake, cake combs, piping, royal icing, chocolate curls, plating. Three recipe testers were used to check out the home quantities and US volume measurements. Ah yes…The major difference between professionals and home bakers is that the professional scales the ingredients (weighs them) while the home baker tends to use volumes (cups and teaspoons). This book is mostly volumes, but for us in Canada, that means US volumes (32 ounce quarts), and no metric. Tools and mixing methods are discussed, and as well there are plenty of descriptive notes for each recipe. Conversions and equivalents in tables are noted. Audience and level of use: for the knowledgeable, hospitality schools, home bakers, restaurants wanting to expand their dessert program. Some interesting or unusual recipes: lemon verbena sauce, rosemary bread, semolina pizza with fresh herbs and goat cheese, lace nut tuiles. What I don’t like about this book: volume measurements are used, no metric. Also, recipes have no highlighted indications for prep and/or cooking times. The index uses light blue heads, which are difficult to focus on. What I do like about this book: thorough and comprehensive. There are charts of common baking problems. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 22. PLANET WINE; a grape by grape visual guide to the contemporary wine world (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 160 pages, ISBN 1- 84000-776-1, $39.95) has been put together by Stuart Pigott, a British wine writer now living in Berlin, and a specialist in German wines. He tries to address the question: is there a global revolution in wines? Well, there are more differing techniques, more winemakers (and younger ones), more wine knowledge, and more wineries willing to take chances and risks. In other words, a richer and more complex wine environment surrounds us. His overall theme is to explore how the major grape varieties taste in different terroir and with different winemaking skills. He starts with warm climate cabernets, merlot, shiraz, grenache, chardonnay, and then moves on to cool climate chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, pinot noir. Other major grapes include nebbiolo, sangiovese, Chenin blanc, gewürztraminer, muscat, zinfandel, plus local indigenous grapes in France, Spain, Italy, Greece, and Germany. Amongst the 140 photos there are plenty of winemaker shots. Audience and level of use: hip audience, younger wine drinkers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Almost every wine today is clean and correct, filled with the fruity taste of the grape variety from which it was made. But what makes wine fascinating are its style (who made it) and origin (where it was made). What I don’t like about this book: too many travel photos. Also, why does Pigott hold a glass of white wine (non-blush) in the articles on Zinfandel/Primitivo? What I do like about this book: good account of the differences caused by terroir and style. There is a basic proper noun index with an index to estates. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR SEPTEMBER 2004 ================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!! 1. WINE LABEL LANGUAGE (Firefly Books, 2004, 366 pages, ISBN 1-55297- 720-X, $24.95 paper covers) is by Peter Saunders, a New Zealand wine writer and consultant for 30 years. It was originally published in 1976 by Wineglass (I have the original), and this is the revised and updated edition, co-published in NZ and US. The summary in the US edition states “an explanation of the information contained on wine labels from major wine producing countries including France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, USA, Canada, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina.” So these are the wine terms as used by each country, which determine the vintage, the region of origin, and the grapes used to make it—all arranged here by country. Along the way there are comments on what affects a wine’s quality and price, and a basic comparison of Old World (wine of the land) versus New World (wine of the grape). As you can see from the quote above, the book lacks the Middle European and Slavic regions (especially annoying with no Austria), as well as Mexico, North Africa, Brazil and Uruguay. These countries are not as crucial as the others are, since they rarely turn up in many run-of-the-mill wine shops. Still, it would have been nice to have some indication, especially for Austria, which is bubbling just under the crust. The book is like the Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides all rolled into one but minus the directory of producers. It has a description of facts and figures for each country’s industry, a glossary, the appellation rules (alcohol minimum, max yields, grapes used, reserve levels, superior levels). There is also a short bibliography Audience and level of use: hospitality schools, wine programs, wine students, trade personnel. Some interesting or unusual facts: About terroir he says, “the Italians have been prepared to be flexible about the introduction of new grapes, especially in Tuscany. This has also occurred in Spain”. What I don’t like about this book: no index, and no mention of Lot Numbers which appear on labels (it’s useful to know in terms of multiple bottlings). What I do like about this book: there is a complete listing of Italian IGTs as of 2003 on pages 218-220. Good reference book, compact, much data in one place. Easy to use. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 2. EATING MY WORDS; an appetite for life (William Morrow, 2004, 240 pages, ISBN 0-06-050109-X, $36.95) is by Mimi Sheraton, cookbook author, freelance writer, and former restaurant reviewer (1975-1983) for the New York Times. As a memoir, it is mildly amusing. We coast along through her regular life and watch her ascendancy through the food writer chain. Her biggest break was working for SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) in 1960. She was hired to write food and restaurant guidebooks for passengers on SAS global routes, but on her own terms. She traveled for half a year, at SAS expense. We get a good read on what international food was like 45 years ago. She wrote a ton of service articles for New York magazine, on such topics as inconsistent quality in bulk food. But it is really her life at the New York Times that we want to read about. Three chapters cover that period; she spent seven and a half years reviewing restaurants. By 1983, her expenses were $95,000 US. The meat of the book concerns her methods and techniques, her journalistic fights with new York Times editors, her disguises and tricks of the reviewing trade, and her advice for restaurants and wannabe food critics. There is, of course, a separate chapter on “outing Otto”, a shameful period in her life and the source of many a journalism school classroom discussion (by me and other j- school teachers of ethics). Bottom line: she was wrong to do so. The rest of the book is largely anecdotal. Audience and level of use: celebrity followers, hospitality owners curious about restaurant reviewers. Some interesting or unusual facts: her battles with weight gain and losses (she lost 60 pounds since leaving the New York Times, down from a high of 205 – and kept them off!). What I don’t like about this book: once again, we have a memoir with NO index, but at least there are 13 descriptive chapter heads. Still, we need an index to pull together all the little stories and thoughts. The last part of the book is a little rambly, and she certainly needed to have detailed more data about New York city. What I do like about this book: her chapter on SAS guidebooks, her compelling chapter on finding Otto, her 1978 trip to France to check out nouvelle cuisine. Quality/Price Ratio: 80 without the index, other wise I’d give it an 85. 3. THE TOMATO FESTIVAL COOKBOOK; 150 recipes that make the most of your crop of lush, vine-ripened, sun-warmed, fat, juicy, ready-to-burst heirloom tomatoes (Storey Publishing, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 310 pages, ISBN 1-58017-498-1, $24.95 paper covers) is by Lawrence Davis- Hollander, who has a degree in ethno botany and is founder and director of the Eastern Native Seed Conservancy, which encourages gardeners to rediscover heirloom plants. In his book, Davis-Hollander describes and discusses over 100 varieties of heirloom tomatoes, including how to grow them. They all bring different textures, flavours, sizes and colours to the plate. Most of the classic/historic 150 recipes come from 31 contributors. The better known ones include Deborah Madison, Rick Bayless, Alice Waters, and Diana Kennedy, and every recipe is sourced as to chef contributor. These recipes can be used for almost all tomatoes (but do check on acid levels and body textures, as in romas). The emphasis is on home-style food, mostly European in origin and with Mexican influences in many cases. After all, the tomato became domesticated first in Mexico. All courses are included, even desserts (tomato tarts, sorbet, cake), although sauces and salads dominate. There is a separate section on preservation (freezing, drying, canning), a bibliography, source list, and a listing of 11 (only 11?) US festivals. US measurements are employed. Audience and level of use: tomato lovers and environmentalists. Some interesting or unusual recipes: dilled green cherries, tomato- chipotle sauce, stuffed mussels with tomatoes and almonds. What I don’t like about this book: the festival list only includes US sites; consequently, there is no mention of the Leamington, Ontario festival, which is now only 21 years old. Also, the tomato ketchup recipe uses sugar. You don’t need sugar to make ketchup. If you do, then you may just as well buy it off the shelf (same with salsa or chutneys). The whole point of making your own ketchup is to reduce the needless sugar. What I do like about this book: there is a recipe for higdom (end of the season relish, great with pork products). The source list includes a few Canadian locations, as well as an indication of which US sources will ship to Canada. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 4. THE ACCIDENTAL CONNOISSEUR; an irreverent journey through the wine world (North Point Press, Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2004; distr. by Douglas and McIntyre, 263 pages, ISBN 0-86547-633-0, $36) is by magazine freelancer Lawrence Osborne, who has written for the New York Times Magazine, the New York Observer, and Salon, as well as being a book author. It is one of the first really interesting new wine books to come along in some time. Osborne is on a personal mission to find out about and define “taste” in wine: what contributes to it, how we communicate that sense, how it relates to grapes or terroir. But the hook here is that Osborne is not a wine writer: he is a poseur. He needs to exert the “imposter syndrome” in order to find his way. Basically, he begins by knowing little. He gets the opportunity via a press pass and a book contract to hang out with the big boys. He starts from the top. He visits and talks to Robert Mondavi (plus To Kalon and Opus One), Piero Antinori, Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon: do I need to tell you this?), Aime Guibert (Mas de Daumas Gaussac, but he avoids the recent brouhaha with Mondavi), and Paul Draper (Ridge). He visits and gets access to Chateau Lafite, Sterling, Chalone, Fortant de France, and many garagistes. He tastes wine and tells them what they want to hear about their expensive wines. He becomes fluent in “taster glossary”. I’ve always contended in wine tasting that if you announced chestnuts in the bouquet, then everybody will taste chestnuts. Wine tasting is highly suggestive which is why many of us scribes (including me) like to taste alone without the chatter. Osborne also uses the names of well-known winemakers he has visited to lever a trip to another, sort of like an introduction. This is a time-honoured journalism trick. One of his best chapters is his description of Enologix, the software program which simulates blends and tastes. It can be calibrated to produce a wine for a higher Parker number. And speaking of Parker, his name comes up here and there as wineries pander to his taste buds. I hope he reads this book…The end of Osborne’s journey (and the end of the book) is spectacular. Read it for yourself. Audience and level of use: jaded wine lovers, readers who love to skewer, the all-knowing wine expert. Some interesting or unusual facts: “We believe in terroir, but we’re getting sick of the word itself” and “Wine today is being made by technicians who have no idea how to enjoy wine” What I don’t like about this book: NO INDEX! how can data be retrieved? much is buried here. There are also a few typos such as “Cohen” for Coen. What I do like about this book: he is a gifted observationalist. Eminently readable. Quality/Price Ratio: 86 without the index (91 with one). 5. KITCHEN HEAVEN (Michael Joseph, 2004; distr. by Penguin, 256 pages, ISBN 0-718-14731-6, $45) is by Gordon Ramsay, one of the UK’s best chefs. He has a UK TV show called Kitchen Nightmares, in which a struggling restaurant receives his treatment and suggestions to improve it. Another food reality show. Most of these recipes – about 100 – are for dishes he has offered on his show: hearty, rustic and countrified. All courses are here, and the food is indeed scrumptious. There are photos of final platings, and metric measurements are used throughout. Audience and level of use: celebrity cook fans, restaurants interested in improving their skills and menu offerings. Some interesting or unusual recipes: crab and ginger salad with baby lettuce, lemon confit and fennel shavings, turnip and marrow and potato soup, braised lamb shanks with parsnip puree, pear financier sponge cake. What I don’t like about this book: there are way too many pictures of Ramsay, about 50 of them. I counted. What I do like about this book: the recipes are in narrative style, which is my favourite way of expressing them (it forces you to read the recipe FIRST before trying it out). In addition, the main entries in the index are in red ink, with the subentries in black. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 6. UNDER THE OLIVE TREE; family and food in Lugano and the Costa Smeralda, Italy (Hardie Grant Books, 2003; distr. by Whitecap, 232 pages, ISBN 1-74066-086-2, $55) is by Manuela Darling-Gansser, who is an inveterate traveler and now lives in Sydney, Australia. She grew up in Lugano (Switzerland) and Costa Smeralda (Sardinia). The notes, photos, and food in this book reflect that heritage. This is NOT an olive oil book; it is largely an al fresco-dining book that is part memoir and part travel book. There is one short chapter on wines and one short chapter on bitters. There is also an intriguing recipe for fogli di musica (sheet music bread), but she neither explains the term nor gives us the complete recipe nor even shows us a picture (there is one on page 143, far away from the recipe). It seems the grill marks look like staves and staff lines on a page. Both metric and imperial measurements are used. Audience and level of use: for the armchair traveler. Some interesting or unusual recipes: nettle soup, pink grapefruit and campari sorbet, risotto di pasta, Sardinian ravioli, eight-hour lamb. What I don’t like about this book: she only gives one menu, albeit with page references, for entertaining a crowd in Sydney. There are also too many travel and memoir notes for me (she’s wearing MY sunglasses! I am SO trendy…) What I do like about this book: she has one recipe per page with plenty of white space. There are superb photos of final platings. Quality/Price Ratio: 80. 7. COGNAC (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 258 pages, ISBN 1-84000-903-9, $39.95) is by Nicholas Faith is a UK wine writer and multiple book author (winning multiple awards). This book was first published twenty years ago; here, it has been totally recast and rewritten. It concerns the history, development, culture, production, and house styles of cognac. The last couple of decades have been a roller coaster ride for cognac. It was finally proven that demand would not be limitless, and that something had to be done, such as restructuring or developing new brands. In 1985, there were 8.9 million cases sold worldwide. This jumped to 12.5 million in 1990 and declined to 9.5 million in 2001. Other sections cover tables, charts, AOC laws, and regulations. Classic older vintages are listed with comments, e.g. 1993: A great deal of rot). There is a directory of fewer than 100 cognac producers (only the better ones) with names, addresses, and phone numbers. There are also ten pages on how to enjoy cognac. The book concludes with a glossary, bibliography (mostly in French and mostly old), and an index (mainly names). Audience and level of use: cognac lovers and hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Because of the prevalence of wholly unremarkable cognacs, I have chosen only to list or highlight those which have some distinguishing features”. What I don’t like about this book: there are no real TNs. The black and white line maps are too heavy in grays. The index does not have any entries for common nouns such as pot distillations or technical processes. What I do like about this book: good historical and economic treatment. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 8. ITALIAN EASY; recipes from the London River Café (Clarkson Potter, 2004; distr. by Random House of Canada, 270 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5348-X, $50) is by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers, founders of the River Café in 1987. They have had previously successful cookbooks, and a TV show. God forbid that we need another “easy Italian” cookbook…what’s different here? Well, the photos are very good and the large print is terrific. The “easy” part is explained by the premise that the food should be easy to shop for, and you can get it all on the table within an hour or two. Hmmmm, don’t most cookbooks fit this paradigm? The 200 recipes here rely on a well-stocked pantry (checklist is included here) plus fresh seasonal ingredients. The bruschetta section has 24 preps (all photographed) plus 15 antipasti. Soup, pasta, risotto, seafood, meats, potatoes, and verdure are completed by lots of desserts. The source list and the measurements are all US. Audience and level of use: followers of TV series, those who need an easy book, fans who have collected their previous cookbooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chicken with nutmeg, fig arugula bruschetta, Sardinian bottarga, gnudi bianchi. What I don’t like about this book: I fail to be convinced about the need for this book. What I do like about this book: most, but not all, of the photos are for final plating. The recipes are in large print. The pages are thick, and they will stand up to kitchen use and wiping. Quality/Price Ratio: at $50, the QPR is 80. 9. WINE REPORT 2005 (Dorling Kindersley, 2004, 432 pages, ISBN 0-7566- 0506-7, $20 paper covers) is edited by Tom Stevenson, author of The New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia and other great and useful reference books. This is book is now an annual; it first came out in 2004. It is 48 pages longer (some of that length comes from new chapters on the Low Countries, Luxembourg, and Scandinavia). The price has also dropped three bucks. The book reports on what happened during the previous 12 months. It will never go out-of-date, so hang onto your copy of the previous year. The Wine Report is a sort of insiders’ guide to the world of wine, with the latest data from each wine region, plus tips on recent vintages and on your wine investments. There are sections for new wine finds, bargains, the latest harvests, wine science and the greatest wines. The contents are arranged by country and region within, with local experts (each credited, and with a photo). Many have MWs. Writers include David Peppercorn on Bordeaux, Clive Coates on Burgundy, Nicholas Belfrage on Italy, Julian Jeffs on Sherry, John Platter on South Africa, Dan Berger on California, and our own Tony Aspler on Canada. Each writer gets several pages for each region, and conveys an assessment of recent vintages and hard hitting opinions, followed by key top ten type lists of the greatest wine producers, the fastest-improving producers, up and coming producers, best-value producers, greatest quality, best bargains, and “Most exciting or unusual finds”. Most of the team are back; there are 43 contributors in all, which is the only way to write up something as comprehensive as this Wine Report. No one writer can keep abreast of it all, and still offer a book at a decent price. Other textual matters within each region are topics concerning personnel changes, mergers and acquisitions, new appellations, new wine laws, legal cases, new wines and changes and new vintages. Local prices of origin are also given, which is a boon for now we can compare them to the Canadian or LCBO prices. There is also a large, useful section on resource tools (also written by individuals) which deals with organic wines, grape varieties, wine auctions, viticulture, and wine on the web (Tom Cannavan). Some suggestions for improvement: an annual review (after a recap) of the existing book and magazine literature, commentaries on wine software programs (both inventory and professional winery management such as the Enologix), and email addresses for the contributors. Audience and level of use: assumes a certain level of knowledge, great for the business traveler wishing to be au courrant with local wines. Some interesting or unusual facts: a winery on Bali grows a crop every month, bioterrorism threatens Burgundy. What I don’t like about this book: some minor typos persist, such as Danny Kay for Danny Kaye. Also, many of the contributor’s photos are still murky. Caution: this book was set and ready to roll by summer 2004, so the cut-off for material was early 2004. This makes the book’s coverage a year old by 2005, and thus mainly the picture for 2003. Not earth shattering for rumours and gossip. In addition, at 432 clay-coated pages, the book is extremely heavy to pick up and lug around. What I do like about this book: I do not think that there is a better wine book out there for the wine professional or sommelier, especially since just about everything in this book is NEW and promises to keep one fully informed and up-to-date. Quality/Price Ratio: 98 – please buy this book to ensure next year’s publication! 10. DOUGLAS RODRIGUEZ’S LATIN FLAVORS ON THE GRILL (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 191 pages, ISBN 1-58008-565-2, $35 paper covers) was originally published in 2000; this is a paperback reissue with some slightly new material. Rodriguez has been regarded as the creator of Nuevo Latino cuisine. He has won a whole pile of awards and citations, is a multiple cookbook author, and is currently “executive chef” in at least three different locations. There are 100 recipes (22 apps, 12 seafood, 21 meats, 26 sides, 16 desserts, beverages) plus 54 grill basics (which includes oils and rubs, adobos and glazes, aji, salsa, and vinaigrettes). Spicing and techniques are from all over Latin America. There are some truly innovative dishes here, such as the lobster and carmelized onion and brie quesadilla. The upscale food here is suitable for restaurants, with such dishes as octopus skewers with black olive sauce. It does help if you have a Latin American larder. There is a US source list with websites, US measurements, and a short glossary. The photos of final plating were good. Audience and level of use: not an easy book but doable, highly recommended for owner-operators and other chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes: sugarcane skewered pork tenderloin strips, tuna with tomatillo-avocado salsa, sticky orange and chipotle- glazed sweet potatoes, grilled pineapple aji. What I don’t like about this book: colourful book, each page is a different colour, which I found distracting. What I do like about this book: great collection of grill basics. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 12. WINES OF BORDEAUX (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 216 pages, ISBN 1-84000- 862-8, $21.95) is by David Peppercorn. It was first published in 1986, with regular revisions through 2002. Peppercorn has been widely acknowledged as a leading specialist in Bordeaux wines. Indeed, I’ve reviewed another, larger book by him on Bordeaux (see number 13 below). In common with other Beazley wine guides, this one used to be pocket- sized. There is a lot of material about terroir, the appellations and the grapes, the growers and the merchants. More than 1000 chateaux are identified (there are over 4000 in the region). Star ratings offer quality recommendations, and there is an indication of which wines are good value for the dollar and which wines are drinking nicely now. Equally valuable is the discussion on vintages and the latest vintage data. Changes in the previous decade have included price spirals, increasingly mechanical harvesting, the rise of co-ops (76 co-ops produce 25% of all AOC wines), and the contraction of negociants The directory lists producers, with addresses and phone numbers. There are line maps, tables, and an index. Audience and level of use: a good reference book for the Bordeaux wine lover, as well as for the hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: The use of stainless-steel horizontal presses and low-temperature fermentation has revolutionized the style and quality of dry white wines. What I don’t like about this book: no bibliography, no production tables. What I do like about this book: it is always available and regularly revised; it has been a must-have authoritative classic for almost twenty years. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 13. BORDEAUX (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 714 pages, ISBN 1-84000-927-6, $50 paper covers) is by David Peppercorn. It was originally published by Faber and Faber in 1982, updated in 1991, and is now recast as part of the sterling Mitchell Beazley Classic Wine Library. Peppercorn, of course, is the world-renowned writer and merchant authority on Bordeaux wines who has authored the pocket guide for Beazley since 1986 (see number 12 above). However, this current book is virtually the same book as 1991 with no changes and no updating. Mitchell Beazley just brought the Faber and Faber book across “as is” and reissued it without stating that fact anywhere. It is misleading to put a 2003 copyright notice. The Preface is dated 1991, all of the tables, the vintage notes, etc. are pre-1990. For example, the entry under Chateau Dauzac remains the same, yet the entry in the wine guide (above) has drastically changed. Dauzac made big changes in 1993, beginning with the ownership. The 50 hectares in this book is now down to 40. Their 15,000 case production has shot up to 29,000 cases. The percentage of merlot is now up by 7 points (from 30 to 37). There is no more petit verdot. (Sounds like the influence of Robert Parker, but that is unimportant). The directory data here in the 2003 reprinted book is just plain wrong and out of date. Audience and level of use: for the archivist Some interesting or unusual facts: shall I repeat some out of date figures? What I don’t like about this book: out of date What I do like about this book: useful to 1990. Quality/Price Ratio: if you already have the 1991 edition, then just get the wine guide (12, above) to update it. Otherwise, forget it. Fifty bucks is way too much for this “as is” reprint of a 1991 book. 14. RUNNING A RESTAURANT FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2004, 358 pages, ISBN 0-7645-3717-2, $31.99 paper covers) is by a trio of writers. Michael Garvey is the general manager and president of the Oyster Bar at Grand Central (location, location, location), Heather Dismore is a food author and restaurant manager, and Andrew Dismore (her spouse) is a master caterer. However, the question is: why would anyone want to run a restaurant for dummies? The title reads that way. So this is a book about running a restaurant, and this is a hard book to review, in that I can simply end up listing the contents. Suffice to say that the work is extremely comprehensive. The step-by-step dummy approach covers what to do, when to do it, how to open, how to manage, how to research, coming up with a business plan. There is a discussion of focus, target market, best location, catering (additional revenue opportunities). There is the use of the Internet for emails and websites. There are the topics of inventory, hiring, menu design, pricing, budgeting, cost control, and liquor licenses. There is a good resource list for magazines, books, Food Network channels, and websites. The index is huge, as is the expanded NINE-page table of contents. Everything appears to be at your fingertips. The book concludes with a collection of horror stories. Audience and level of use: seems aimed at all people who even hinted at running a restaurant, the Rocco DiSpirito wannabes. Its main point might be to discourage people and weed out the dilettantes before they pursue their new career. But if you have any sort of interest, then read it and move on to the more professional manuals. It also serves as a checklist for owner-operators to see if their own place is up to snuff. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Keep in touch with what your diners are reading, seeing, and hearing” What I don’t like about this book: it makes it all sound so easy. Also, there is no glossary of “in” terms, such as “slam”. And their could have been more horror stories, not just 10. What I do like about this book: cheat sheet checklists (how to stay competitive, customer services, staffing, menu-lingo that sells). Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 15. SHERRY (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 352 pages, ISBN 1-84000-923-3, $39.95) is by Julian Jeffs, who worked in the sherry trade, and who is also the author of The Wines of Spain. It was first published in 1961, and regularly revised ever decade since. This is its fifth edition. Jeffs writes about the history of the sherry trade and the economics of the twentieth century. He then covers the vines and the vineyards, plus the production cycle. Manzanilla is also included. Along the way, he distributes notes about particular styles of sherries, but to be comprehensive, you’ll need to check the index to rope in all the references. Near the end, there is a 20-page chapter on today’s shippers. This short directory (65 names) includes data on mergers, addresses, small profile, and brand names used. The book is illustrated with historical engravings. There are numerous appendices of a scientific and statistical nature, as well as EU regulations, notes about age-dated sherries, and sherry vinegar. The book concludes with an extensive bibliography, glossary, topical and name index. Audience and level of use: the sherry collector, wine schools, and hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “A certain measure of prosperity has meant that the sherry region no longer has a run-down appearance, and is actually a good place to visit” What I don’t like about this book: there are no real TNs. What I do like about this book: comprehensive enough, good notes on blending. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 16. SRI LANKAN FLAVOURS; a journey through the island’s food and culture (Hardie Grant Books, 2003; distr. by Whitecap, 168 pages, ISBN 1-74066-066-8, $35 paper covers) is by Channa Dassanayaka, a trained chef who opened his first Sri Lankan restaurant in a castle in the Black Forest in Germany! The seventy recipes here are derived from roadside cafes, street food, and the markets. They cover light snacks, sweet treats, lots of curries, vegetable dishes, breads and rice. These foods use lots of sambols and other condiments. Hoppers (bowl-shaped pancakes) are included. A lot of the food is spicy, with curries, fish, and mustard potatoes. This is not for the faint of heart. Also, you’ll need a larder in order to cook this food. Despite metric conversion tables, the recipes manage to mix Imperial volume measurements with metric weights. Audience and level of use: for the armchair traveler and adventuresome cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes: kunisso (shrimp) sambol, coconut roti, date chutney, cabbage mallum What I don’t like about this book: screen symbols on many of the recipe pages are an annoying distraction. There are also too many gratuitous pictures intermingled with the recipes. What I do like about this book: fairly unique, covering Sri Lanka. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 17. WINES OF ITALY 7th ed.(Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 224 pages, ISBN 1-84000-861-X, $21.95) is by Burton Anderson. It was first published in 1983, with regular revisions through 2002. Anderson has been widely acknowledged as a leading specialist in Italian wines; he has lived in Tuscany for over 20 years. Anderson has been assisted by Maureen Ashley (a UK wine writer) in this latest edition. The layout is now in double columns. In common with other Beazley wine guides, this one used to be pocket-sized. There is a lot of material about terroir, the appellations and the grapes, the growers and the merchants, wine and food matching. Equally valuable is the discussion on vintages. The book has been arranged by direction, from north (Valle d’Aosta) to south (Sicily) in 20 regions. He says that there have been new changes and achievements in Asti and in Maremma (Southern Tuscany). The vast majority of producers have come out with one or two new wines in the past two years, and few have withdrawn any from the market. These new wines appear to be mostly Syrah, Chardonnay, and blends with indigenous varieties (both minority and majority components). Producers, with addresses and phone numbers, are listed. There are line maps, tables, and an index. Audience and level of use: a good reference book for the Italian wine lover, as well as for the hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Ever more producers of high-quality wine in Italy prefer to market some or all of their range under the more liberal lesser IGT designation” What I don’t like about this book: no real TNs. What I do like about this book: it is always available and regularly revised; it has been a must-have authoritative classic for more than twenty years. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. 18. THE ESSENTIAL RICE COOKBOOK (Whitecap, 2003, 304 pages, ISBN 1- 55285-495-7, $29.95 paper covers) was originally published by Murdoch Books of Australia. It is a packager’s effort, with teams devoted to recipe development, food prep, styling, and photography. It is one of a series of “Essentials”. The material generally concerns the risottos and paellas of the Mediterranean, the pilafs and pilaus of the Middle East, and the rice of Asia. The intro section details material about rices of the world and cooking it in general. The 200 recipes are each illustrated with a plated photo, and each is rated for ease of preparation. Times for prep and cooking are also given. The basics are covered, so you’ll get notes on how to prepare a basic sushi, risotto, paella, pilaf, rice pudding, plus a virtually unlimited series of variations. Arrangement is by region, ending with “Fusion” (e.g., wild rice salad with Chinese roast duck). Audience and level of use: this is all straight-forward food, easy enough to do. Some interesting or unusual recipes: scallops on Asian risotto cakes, jambalaya, sweet red bean soup with mochi, Balinese fried rice. What I don’t like about this book: to do this cooking well and easy, you’ll need three larders: southeast Asian, oriental, and Mediterranean. Also, while there is a glossary, the illustrations are elsewhere in the book. What I do like about this book: extensive and well-developed index, plus the index includes references to margin notes. And both metric and Imperial measurements are employed. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 19. THE WINES OF HUNGARY (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 346 pages, ISBN 1-84000-789-3, $39.95 paper covers) is by Alex Liddell. It might have come out sooner, except that it was trapped in the transfer from Faber and Faber to Mitchell Beazley. But Liddell persevered and updated as he went along. Most of the research was done in 2000. He tries to answer the question “How does a country with once- proud traditions reinvent itself after forty-five years of Communism, during which the entire structure of grape-growing and wine production was changed out of recognition?” Liddell tries to get inside privatization, foreign investment, and quality standards. There is still a lot more work to be done in Hungary, such as replanting. But it should all be speeded up by Hungary’s entry into the EU in May 2004. His book is in three sections: one covers recent history of winemaking under Communism, another deals with the viniculture and viticulture of Hungary, and the third is a trip through the regions (including Tokaji Aszu of course). He has profiles of some 200 leading producers in the 22 official wine regions, with an assessment of the wines (names, addresses, phone numbers, acreage, types of wine, etc.) but no tasting notes. There are also line sketch maps, a bibliography, websites, statistics and tables, wine routes and wine festivals. Audience and level of use: fans of Hungarian wines, sommeliers, wine schools, hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The development of a healthy wine industry that is able to export successfully is of considerable importance to Hungary, because more than half of Hungary’s GDP comes from its export trade”. What I don’t like about this book: needs notes for more producers, plus some TNs. The legend directory on page 70 needs to be at the front where it is more accessible. What I do like about this book: a unique book. Glossary of Hungarian terms. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR AUGUST 2004 ============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!! 1. RICK STEIN’S COMPLETE SEAFOOD (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 264 pages, ISBN 1-58008-568-7, $55) is by the owner of the Seafood Restaurant (England), and impressive authority on seafood in general. He has authored other seafood books, and has hosted some television cooking shows. This book grew out of his Cornwall cooking school, and attempts to be definitive. One stress that he makes is that seafood is also fast food in that it is quick to prepare. There are 150 recipes with 550 instructional photographs and illustrations, along with extensive charts and colour IDs for the seafood. Part one covers techniques (with demos) such as a step-by-step guide to scaling, to gutting, to skinning, to pan frying, to filleting, to baking a fish in a salt or pastry casing (plus foil and en papillote), to hot smoking, to steaming, to stuffing… Part two details the recipes, which are mainly classics, distributed according to type of seafood (large fish, small fish, crustaceans, mollusks), and part three is the reference section with information about the fish, the equipment needed, and the pantry ingredients required. Audience and level of use: for the completist, the hospitality trade (especially useful as a text). Some interesting or unusual recipes: anguilles au vert, tonno con fagioli, grilled snapper with mango-shrimp-chile salsa, herring in oat coating with bacon. What I don’t like about this book: while the recipes have both, in general, US and metric equivalents for each ingredient, this policy is inconsistent. There are many instances when he uses US alone. What I do like about this book: Stein presents lots of alternatives and choices for the fish to be used. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 2. FISH GRILLED AND SMOKED; 150 recipes for cooking rich, flavorful fish on the backyard grill, streamside, or in a house smoker (Storey Publishing, 2004; distr. by T.Allen, 260 pages, ISBN 1-58017-502-3, $24.95 paper covers) is by John Manikowski, an outdoors writer and author of Wild Fish and Game Cookbook. The 150 recipes here cover both freshwater and saltwater fish, and include marinades and a “soft smoke” technique (using corn). Manikowski also includes illustrated building plans for a streamside smoker, a home smoker, and a large backyard smokehouse. He illustrates boning and scaling techniques. The smoked section of the book has four cures and rubs. He also has 20 pages of accompaniments (sides, condiments, sauces, desserts), along with some wine and fish pairing tasting notes. Most of the recipes also have wine matches noted, both US and foreign wines. There are plenty of sidebars for help and encouragement. The resources list has websites and phone numbers for smoking, fish and spices. US measurements are used in the preparations. Audience and level of use: for the active camper, games person, or adventuresome cookbook reader. Hospitality trade schools may also want to consider it, as a reference book on smoking. Some interesting or unusual recipes: rum-smoked tuna, grilled shad with morels, steelhead trout in red wine sauce, fennel-smoked bluefish with blueberry balsamic sauce. What I don’t like about this book: totally useless bibliography, nothing to do with fish. What I do like about this book: extensive and well-developed index for both subjects and recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 3. A FOOL AND FORTY ACRES; conjuring a vineyard three thousand miles from Burgundy (McClelland & Stewart, 2004, 275 pages, ISBN 0-7710-4054- 7, $34.99) is by Geoff Heinricks, a journalist and freelance writer who had relocated to Prince Edward County in Southern Ontario a decade ago, to pursue a dream of growing grapes, specifically pinot noir. Most of the book deals with a history of Prince Edward County, while some of it also covers Heinricks and his family leaving the safety net of Toronto big city life for the rusticity and uncertainty of viticulture. There are sections on why pinot noir is particularly apt for the limestone areas of Hillier in the County, his relationships with his neighbours, the difficulty of survival of the vines over the winter, and his stick- to-itiveness for developing acres and acres of vines. Indeed, as a pioneer, he ended up as a consultant and coach, dispensing advice and guidance, to others who came after him, such as engineer Ken Burford, vineyard manager Deborah Paskus who fled from Niagara, and Chef Jamie Kennedy. Still, there is not much on other vine growers, or on any of the wineries (except for Waupoos/County Cider, which was there before Heinricks arrived). And certainly, there are no tasting notes for current vintages. Some of this material had previously appeared in different versions in Saturday Night and the Ottawa Citizen. For the wanderers among us, there is also a healthy dose of Al Purdy poetry and conversation with the man himself. As an avid wine enthusiast, I particularly enjoyed the pages in the vineyards as fascinating reading. But the title is typically Canadian, too self-effacing. Audience and level of use: the general reader interested in memoirs and/or wine, and certainly anybody in the hospitality trade in Ontario with a healthy interest in viticulture and winery management. Some interesting or unusual facts: Wine yeasts are a subject of earnest discussion that often ends in winemakers taking swings at each other. What I don’t like about this book: sadly, there is no index, which, in view of the lack of chapter descriptions and the sprawling unfocused nature of the writing, makes it almost impossible to pull together any kind of facts. Shame, shame! What I do like about this book: well, I do like the sprawling nature and the sense that Heinricks life is unfolding nicely. It often reads as a novel, with a plot and some vivid writing. Quality/Price Ratio: 80 without the index, otherwise I’d give it a 90. 4. EATING MY WORDS; an appetite for life (William Morrow, 2004, 240 pages, ISBN 0-06-050109-X, $36.95) is by Mimi Sheraton, cookbook author, freelance writer, and former restaurant reviewer (1975-1983) for the New York Times. Audience and level of use: celebrity followers, hospitality owners curious about restaurant reviewers. Some interesting or unusual facts: What I don’t like about this book: once again, we have a memoir with NO index, but at least there are 13 chapter heads. What I do like about this book: Quality/Price Ratio: 80 without the index, other wise I’d give it an 85. 5. FILIPINO HOMESTYLE DISHES (Periplus, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 96 pages, ISBN 0-7946-0214-2, $14.95 hard spiral binding) is by Norma Olizon-Chikiamco. It is one of the “Learn to Cook” series, which has been concentrating on Asian food. It is an excellent beginner book for cooks unfamiliar with food from the Philippines, one of Asia’s least known cuisines, and heavily influenced by both Spanish and Mexican cooking. All courses are covered, prep times and cooking times are indicated, and there is generally a colour photo of the finished plate. There are websites for mail order sources, and both US and metric measurements are available. For Filipino food, you’ll need a pantry of some items unique to oriental fare, such as annatto seeds, banana hearts, jicama, plantains, pinipig rice cereal, sago pearls. All of the rest can come from a regular oriental larder. Audience and level of use: beginner level, also for the hospitality trade wishing to expand their oriental offerings. Some interesting or unusual recipes: fish sarciado, pork braised in sweet vinegar soy, longganisa, papaya achara. What I don’t like about this book: index is by title of recipe only, and not by ingredient. What I do like about this book: the spiral binding allows the book to lie flat. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 6. AUSTRALIA’S LIQUID GOLD (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 256 pages, ISBN 1- 84000-794-X, $39.95 paper covers) is by Nicholas Faith, a British historian and wine writer. It was originally published in 2001 and 2002; this current paperback reissue incorporates some new text. Even so, forty bucks is a lot to pay, particularly when the George book (below) costs only ten dollars more for three times the text. Faith’s book is essentially a history of the phenomenal growth of the Australian wine industry, rather than a winery-by-winery (or region) survey. His book tries to chart the success of its growth and international boom, mostly since the early 1990s. The time frame, for the most part, is fifteen years, although a lot of historical detail is revealed, leading up to 1990. One of the early leaders in exporting wine was the Brown Brothers, and they crop up a lot throughout the book. Other wineries include the BRL Hardy conglomerate, Lindemans, McWilliams, Orlando Wyndham, Penfolds, Rosemount, Yalumba, Tyrrell, Seppelt, Wynns, and Southcorp. Names of personalities responsible for a lot of marketing and good will include Max Lake, Max Schubert, Wolf Blass, James Halliday, Len Evans, and many others. Faith covers soil research and the vines. There is one map, a pertinent bibliography, and an index. Audience and level of use: for the wine scholar and the hospitality school. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Inevitably, the Hunter was the magic region of the late 1960s and early 1970s.” What I don’t like about this book: hard to find anything beyond the price. What I do like about this book: the story needed to be said, and it is a good example of narrative history and compelling marketing. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 7. ROMANCE OF THE MANGO; the complete book of the king of fruits (Penguin Books, 2002, 290 pages, ISBN 0-14-302864-2, $25 paper covers) is by Kusum Budhwar, who has an MA in Fine Arts. The book was originally published in India in 2002, and is now available in Canada. It is in three sections. She gives us a history of the mango and its cultural and social impact in India (myths, songs and rites), all in 140 pages. There are line drawings and maps with extensive historical photos. The botanical section (60 pages) covers the description, how to grow, blooming, yields, harvesting, storage, packing and varieties around the world. There are colour photos of the varieties. The cooking section is 80 pages long, with material on medical and cosmetic use (treating prickly heat, diabetes, earaches). The preps run through beverages, salads, desserts, pickles and condiments from the global cuisine, not just Indian. The drinks include a mango lassi (of course) and a mango bellini (scrumptious!). Audience and level of use: academics, food scholars, and hospitality trade schools would appreciate the author’s work and efforts. Some interesting or unusual facts: Lord Indra became a mango tree, and the mango motif came to be known as the paisley. What I don’t like about this book: the index is useful for everything save the recipes, which are clumped together – for the most part – as “mango this” and “mango that”. Others are scattered about, and there is no heading or category for recipes. She also mixes metric and Imperial measurements in the preps. What I do like about this book: very informative, useful single product book. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 8. FRESH AT HOME; everyday vegetarian cooking (Penguin Books, 2004, 215 pages, ISBN 0-14-301598-2, $28 paper covers) is by Ruth Tal Brown and Jennifer Houston who also authored “Juice for Life; modern food and luscious juice” in 2000. They are co-owners of Toronto’s Juice for Life restaurants (now known as Fresh); this second book extends their repertoire of popular recipes. The restaurants are consistently voted as Best Vegetarian Restaurant by the local media, and with good reason: the food is excellent (I’ve eaten there many times). Here are 125 recipes, including 13 tofu recipes and some desserts, using a lot of oriental ingredients for diversity and for flavours. The authors use a lot of soy products (tofu, tempah, tamari, misu, soymilk), as well as sprouts, sea vegetables (hijiki, arame, nori, dulse), grains, seeds and yeast. The chapters deal with topics such as rice bowls, noodles, lassi, and other juices. There is one recipe to a page. Audience and level of use: vegetarians and vegans, beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes: samurai soba, ponzu noodles, rich mushroom sauce. What I don’t like about this book: meaningless photographs that are not really food related. What I do like about this book: good glossary and bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 9. THE WINES OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 735 pages, ISBN 1-84000-793-1, $50 paper covers) is by Rosemary George, MW, a prolific British wine writer and author of many award-winning books. It was first published in 2001, and has been updated through 2003. There are no illustrations beyond line maps, but a whopping amount of text. There is a short history plus recent developments of the sweep from the Pyrenees to Italy, and then it is on to the regions beginning with Roussillon and its districts (Cotes, Rivesaltes, Maury, Banyuls, and Collioure), Languedoc, Provence, and Corsica. These regions are similarly broken down into AOCs. These are all Mediterranean wines. Combining visits with official texts, George characterizes each AOC and then outlines the main protagonists amongst the wineries, indicating what styles of wines each makes. Grape varieties and viticulture techniques are discussed in every chapter. There are sprinklings of tasting notes, but essentially, it is a survey of who’s who. Mondavi’s name does not appear in the index, but of interest to us in Ontario might be her comments about Fortant de France. George has written a massive, impressive book, showing tons of research. At the end of it, there are listings of degree-days and listings of all the vins de pays designations for 2002 (Portes de la Mediterranee). Audience and level of use: the avid wine lover and hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: In the nineteenth century, Limoux was as well noted for its red wines as for its whites. What I don’t like about this book: a fat paperback, will it stand up to many perusals as a reference book? What I do like about this book: wines, winemakers and estates appear in the extensive index. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 10. QUICK AND EASY THAI; 70 everyday recipes (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 0-8118-3731-9, $26.95 paper covers) is by Nancie McDermott is a food writer and teacher, author of other Thai cookbooks. She actually lived in the Thailand countryside as Peace Corps volunteer. The book, which covers the basic courses of appetizers to desserts with about 8 – 10 recipes each, has nineteen menus. There are good photos of plating. The US measurements have a table of metric equivalents. All the mail order sources are US. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes: red curry beef with butternut squash, grilled beef salad with chiles and lime, minced pork salad with crunchy rice and fresh mint, son-in-law eggs with crispy shallots. What I don’t like about this book: not for occasional use – you still need a Thai pantry of things in little jars, plus fresh herbs. What I do like about this book: the index is well developed considering that there are only 70 recipes. The menus have page references to the needed recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 11. FRESH FOOD FAST; delicious, seasonal vegetarian meals in under an hour (ReganBooks HarperCollins, 2004, 294 pages, ISBN 0-06-051514-7, $53.95) is by Peter Berley (winner of IACP Cookbook Award and James Beard Foundation Award for his previous “Modern Vegetarian Kitchen”) and Melissa Clark, author or co-author of some 15 other cookbooks. Berley arranges the book by season, beginning with Spring. There are 12 menus for each quarter, each with a shopping list, a pantry, and a strategy. Some menus have dairy and these are clearly labeled, although substitutions are not always listed. But there are too many dairy products to warrant a vegan purchase. Suggested pantry items include canned beans, grating cheese, citrus (lemons, orange, and limes), nuts and seeds, grain, herbs and spices, oils, soy sauce, vanilla, and vinegars. Audience and level of use: the book is easy to use; you can always throw in a piece of meat or fish for garnish in any of the mains. One of its best uses will be for the menus, one a week through the year. Some interesting or unusual recipes: orzo with baby mustard greens- lemon-asiago, spicy corn and tomato frittata with scallions and basil, creamy pumpkin-pear-chestnut soup, roasted figs with almond frangipane. What I don’t like about this book: he has no wine recommendations. Also, most of the black and white and some of the colour photos are sort of useless and wasteful. They add to the price, as does the wild colour scheme on the printed page. What I do like about this book: in addition to emphasizing basic equipment, Berley also uses the pressure cooker a lot. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 12. WINES OF BURGUNDY (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 232 pages, ISBN 1-84000- 709-5, $21.95) is largely by Serena Sutcliffe, and fully revised and updated by Patrick Matthews. It was first published in 1986, with regular revisions through 1999. Sutcliffe has been widely acknowledged as a leading specialist in Burgundy wines. In common with other Beazley wine guides, this one used to be pocket-sized. There is a lot of material about terroir, the appellations and the grapes, the growers and the merchants, and the other quirks of being a burgundian. Equally valuable is the discussion on vintages. The book has been divided into two major parts. One deals with the wines and the villages, with cross- references to producers. The other part is an A-Z of about 600 burgundy producers, with addresses and phone numbers. There are line maps, tables, and an index. Audience and level of use: a good reference book for the Burgundy wine lover, as well as for the hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: The vines in the Hautes-Cotes are mixed with other fruits, such as blackcurrants and raspberries. What I don’t like about this book: well, Patrick Matthews’s name appears on the covers and title page, but he doesn’t get a copyright notice nor does he get a textual acknowledgement. So what did he do, especially since he’s listed as “fully revised and updated by”?? What I do like about this book: it is always available and regularly revised; it has been a must-have authoritative classic for almost twenty years. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. 13. FESTIVE PICNICS (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 111 pages, ISBN 1-58008- 560-1, $23.95 paper covers) is a two-pronged book. It has some 40 recipes from Pamela Sheldon Johns, a food writer living in central Italy (envy!). It also has a lot of crafts and decoration ideas for outdoor occasions, put together by Jennifer Barry, a publisher art director also specializing in food and holiday creations. Food coverage extends to salads, BBQ, desserts, drinks. The crafts involve techniques and guidance for picnic bento boxes (great idea!), decorative takeout containers, rice paper candleholders, party fans, and even place cards. US measurements are used, with metric conversion charts. Johns has a great picnic packing list and a grilling checklist. She also has menus ideas for holidays and various themes. Alcoholic drinks are mainly wine spritzers, sangria, and margaritas. Lemonades and teas are noted. Audience and level of use: mainly for outings with family and friends, but caterers may find the book useful for ideas. Some interesting or unusual recipes: Asian coleslaw, goat cheese- arugula-tapenade tea sandwiches, grilled halibut packets with tomato- feta-olive salsa. What I don’t like about this book: while Johns gives us eight menus, none has any page references to the recipes involved. She also neglects to outline levels of responsibility for picnic actions (people must be told) among her lists. What I do like about this book: there are excellent photographs of the finished product, plus a resource list for developing craft ideas. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 14. EVERYTHING TASTES BETTER WITH GARLIC; positively irresistible recipes (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 132 pages, ISBN 0- 8118-3816-1, $26.95 paper covers) is by Sara Perry, a cookbook author for Chronicle Books. The 65 recipes are typical: bagna cauda, soups, panzanella salad, Caesar salad, roast pork and garlic, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic bread. There are 11 useful appetizers. We’ve seen it all before, but at least it is in one book, similar to other garlic books. The recipes are laid out in excellent fashion, with colour photos of the finished plate. US measurements are there, with metric equivalents table. Resources include preliminary material on buying, storing and cooking with garlic, websites, bibliography, a listing of 23 garlic festivals in North America and UK, US garlic farms. Audience and level of use: easy, beginner level, also a book for garlic lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: bar nuts, white bean soup, focaccia, garlic risotto. What I don’t like about this book: tiny print in the index, although there are many cross-references. Also, the garlic ice cream recipe calls for only one quarter teaspoon of minced garlic, really too small to matter and just large enough to give the dessert a sort of “what is that weird flavour?” subdued taste. What I do like about this book: lots of garlic dips and crudite ideas, plenty of variations are listed, and there are many garlic flavour boosters such as gremolata, pestos, butters, marmalade. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 15. WINES OF SPAIN (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 207 pages, ISBN 1-84000- 710-9, $21.95) is by Jan Read, a recognized authority on Spanish wines. It first appeared in 1983 as a pocket guide, and it has been regularly revised. Its last publication was in 2001. It is now titled as a “wine guide” which means that it no longer fits the pocket in tidy fashion. Similar to other such guides (see the Sutcliffe review, above) it has basic material situating Spain in the context of the wines of the world, laws and labels, viticulture, special vocabulary, wines to drink today, sparkling wines, spirits and liqueurs, followed by an index. There are 12 separate chapters for the regions, which include Rioja, Sherry, Navarre, Catalan, etc. For each, there is a small map, an alphabetical listing of the major wineries and sub-regions, a section of wine and food matching, plus some hotels and restaurants. Each winery is rated as to quality. While there is a brief description of the winery, there are no real tasting notes. Audience and level of use: a good reference book for the Spanish wine lover, as well as for the hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Sales of Rioja wines in the UK rose from 100,000 litres in 1970 to 13 million today. What I don’t like about this book: no longer the convenient pocket shape. What I do like about this book: it is always available and regularly revised; it has been a must-have authoritative classic for twenty years. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. 16. NAPKIN FOLDING FOR EVERY OCCASION (Sterling Publishing, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-4027-1012-7, $29.95) is by Doris Kuhn. It was originally published in German in 2000 and 2002. Apparently, the 21st century is the period for napkin folding; I’ve already reviewed two such books, this is a third, and I’ve got two more waiting for review space. Anyway, here are 55 designs, all with written simple techniques and illustrated detailed line drawings, and a colour photo of the finished product. Some are complicated and time consuming, like the Oyster. There is the classic Roll with Tip and the decorative Ice Bird. The dozens of forms, for fabric or paper napkins, include the Shirt, which in paper form can be used for a child’s birthday celebration, while in fabric form, it can be used for elegant dining. Other shapes include a cornucopia, a dragonfly, origami for paper napkins. Audience and level of use: great for hospitality staff and b & b operators. Some interesting or unusual facts: The lavish table decorations of Louis XIV, the Sun King, were primarily responsible for creating the 3- D aspect of shapes for napkins. What I don’t like about this book: hardly anything What I do like about this book: the book lies flat for ease of maneuvering. There is an illustrated index with all the shapes outlined as thumbnails, and page references. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 17. THE WHOLE BEAST; nose to tail eating (Ecco HarperCollins, 2004, 202 pages, ISBN 0-06-058536-6, $29.95 paper covers) is by Fergus Henderson, chef-owner of the French House Dining Room (England). This book was originally published in the UK in 1999; it won an Andre Simon Award in 2000. So why did it take so long to cross the Atlantic? The book is basically a British cookbook with some recipes for offal. There’s meat and there’s innards. We all eat sausages (stuffed intestines). There’s nothing wrong with pork cheeks, pork hocks, pork tails, and pork bellies: they turn up on menus quite a lot (maybe not the pork tails, but oxtails do). Also, liver, tongue, sweetbreads, and tripe have respectability. What is uncommon on menus are kidney (two recipes here), lambs tongue, lamb brains (four recipes here), calf’s heart, bone marrow. Yet these appear on many farmhouse menus in the UK with regularity. Ferguson has a recipe for pig spleen (sort of like liver), and maybe that dish may be unique to his restaurant. At any rate, most of the deep innards are from sheep. And speaking of which: there is a classic UK prep for lamb chop with kidney attached. But it is NOT in this book, and it needs to be! Other recipes in the book deal with regular meats, accompaniments, and sides. Procedures include braising brains, brining pork bellies, grilling hearts, and devilling kidneys. Audience and level of use: the adventuresome would like this book, and so would the hospitality trade. Some interesting or unusual recipes: soft roes on toast, roast bone marrow and parsley salad, headcheese, sorrel-chicory-crispy ear salad. What I don’t like about this book: significantly, there are NO illustrations – perhaps too squeamish? Also, the index is a MESS. The recipes are not indexed under type of offal. There is no entry for “heart”, “tongue” (“ox tongue” has three), “hocks” (you must use “pig trotters” for seven recipes: trotters is a British term, not North American). There are no appropriate cross-references; consequently, you must look under the name of the animal in order to find the relevant innards. What I do like about this book: it does exist, and it does fill a void. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 18. THE EVERYDAY CALCIUM COOKBOOK; calcium-rich nutrition for whole- body health (Key Porter Books, 2004, 139 pages, ISBN 1-55263-582-1, $24.95 paper covers) is by Helen Bishop MacDonald, a well-known nutritionist and nutrition writer, author of other Canadian healthy cookbooks. One in four women and one in eight men have osteoporosis. The main reason, according to MacDonald, is because our daily calcium needs are not being met, and our bodies are withdrawing calcium from the bank (in this case, the skeleton). Her book is an attempt to get more calcium into us on a daily basis, by eating more calcium rich foods. The best food is milk, which plays a prominent part in the book. Her recipes cover the spectrum of breakfast to snacks, soups to beverages. Each of the 73 preps has quantities listed for calcium, potassium, vitamins D, A, B12, magnesium, zinc, thiamine, riboflavin, and niacin. Both imperial and metric measurements are listed. Still, there is no getting around it: supplements might be useful for the body. Audience and level of use: useful for concerned people (mainly women) and for institutions looking to pick up more nutritional meals. Some interesting or unusual facts: The average North American woman gets one serving of milk products a day (300 mg of calcium) plus 300 mg from other sources, for a total of 600 mg. She needs 1000 mg minimum. What I don’t like about this book: more adventuresome recipes would also have been useful, some with spicy flavours. Also, I think more space could have been devoted to the bioavailability issue. What I do like about this book: there is a bibliography with subcategories for further reading in calcium and colon cancer, heart disease, kidney stones, and Vitamin D. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 19. PASTA SALAD; 50 favorite recipes (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 108 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4203-7, $26.95 paper covers) is by Barbara Lauterbach, a cookbook writer and cooking school professional specializing in salad books. She has authored Potato Salad and Chicken Salad for Chronicle Books. Pasta salads are inexpensive and easy; they are a money-maker for the hospitality trade each summer. They are useful for picnics, al fresco, lunches, and restaurants. Yet cooking pasta for salads is an art, as it tends to overcook and/or dry out. The pasta should be undercooked as it will absorb the dressing. No desserts are listed, although mango is used in one salad. There are photos of most finished plates. US measurements are used, with a metric table of equivalents on the last page. Audience and level of use: hospitality trade as a welcomed addition to menus and catering, families, easy enough to do. Some interesting or unusual recipes: cellentani salad with baby peas and mint, spring soba sesame salad, shells and mango salad with jicama and a celery seed dressing. What I don’t like about this book: tiny print in the book, with the index even smaller. It is almost impossible to see the page numbers in both the index and on the pages themselves. What I do like about this book: there is a photographic guide to pastas for quick ID (22 are used). Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 20. THE FLAVORS OF SOUTHERN ITALY (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 452 pages, ISBN 0-471-27251-5, $42.99) is by Erica De Mane, a cookbook author and freelance writer (Food & Wine, Saveur, NY Times, Gourmet). There are 250 recipes here, and her approach is “bold and slow” with flavours and cooking times. She has the classics and new interpretations, mostly Sicilian. She begins with a description of flavours, categorizing them as bitter (amaro) greens, digestives, almonds; some sweet and sour (agrodolce) created mainly by adding sugar and vinegars, and sea salt. She’d like most dishes to begin with a soffritto of sautéed blended ingredients. She ranges from Sicilian with its Greek-Arabic-Spanish- French invasions, through Campania (Naples), Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, with distinctions among them. There is a section on the pantry essentials of plum tomatoes, olives, olive oil, garlic, capers, lemons, anchovies, sweet peppers, fennel, saffron, pancetta, almonds, and pine nuts. US measurements, US mail order and Internet sites, as well as a history of Italian eating complete the resources package. I found the index useful, and the bibliography pertinent. Audience and level of use: there does not seem to be a compelling reason for this book, given that there are tons of Italian cookbooks available and that the trend is to regional books. Southern Italy is a large place on the gastronomic map, and she fails to clarify on what makes Southern Italy different from Northern Italy. Some interesting or unusual recipes: cavatelli with chicken livers tomato and saffron, oven-roasted gaeta olives with rosemary-garlic- orange, zucchini and plum tomato gratin with oregano, calamari filled with ricotta and herbs and malvasia wine. What I don’t like about this book: apart from the need for the book, there are only two pages of wine notes, which barely skims the top. There are no wine recommendations for the dishes. What I do like about this book: there are 12 menus, all with page references. There are good introductions for each recipe, a clean layout, and qualifying notes in most of the preps. Quality/Price Ratio: 79. 21. EL FAROL; tapas and Spanish cuisine (Gibbs Smith, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 204 pages, ISBN 1-58685-101-2, $41.95) is by James Campbell Caruso, executive chef at El Farol, Santa Fe NM’s oldest restaurant (founded 1835). It is a SPANISH restaurant in the heart of New Mexico, with an extensive Spanish wine cellar. Of course, there are local influences such as poblano and chipotle. The ingredients seem easy to find. There are 8 soups and stews, 20 cold tapas, 32 hot tapas, 15 mains, 14 desserts, and 7 drinks. So tapas is the leading category of preps. Caruso gives commentaries on each of the recipes. US measurements are employed. Audience and level of use: chef cookbook collectors, the hospitality trade. Some interesting or unusual recipes: ginger fig puree, pollo curri, albondigas, pepita-crusted salmon with toasted cumin-tomato sauce. What I don’t like about this book: only one and a half pages devoted to wines and sherries, no wine recommendations for the dishes. What I do like about this book: effective photos of the finished plate, although the photo of the flan clearly shows bubbling, which is a no- no. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR JULY 2004 ============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!!!! 1. CHOW! VENICE; savoring the food and wine of La Serenissima – a guide to restaurants and bars in Venice (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2003, 159 pages, ISBN 1-891567-60-4, $14.95US, paper covers) is by Shannon Essa and Ruth Edenbaum, two Americans with much Venetian travel and food experience. There is material on how, when and what to eat in Venice, with descriptions of local dishes. There are listings for 40 restaurants and 40 bars (the latter for breakfasts and quick lunches), with walking directions. There is a web address, phone number, location for maps included, credit cards, prices, hours open for each, as well as an index entry. In addition, there is a listing of markets and food stores. Although the cover promises “wine shops”, all of these are for bulk or inexpensive wines. There seem to be no places selling upscale wine, not even the Veneto’s Amarone. One store sells organic wines Some interesting or unusual facts: the day after I got this book for review, the New York Times had an article decrying overcrowding. “Tourists have taken Venice over, crowding its streets, throwing trash in its canals and turning what was once a dynasty into a city-sized museum – more commodity than community.” Each year, six million visitors spend the night; a further 15 million stay only the day. Yet only 70,000 live in Venice. It was sort of like that when I first went to Venice in 1969… What I don’t like about this book: glossary needs for proofreading for consistency of style. What I do like about this book: fairly comprehensive, with smart comments about establishments. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 2. MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2004, 311 pages, ISBN 0-7645-5624-X, $24.99 paper covers) is by Julie Barlow (a magazine journalist who spent several years living in Paris but is currently Montreal-based) and Austin Macdonald (a freelance writer with Montreal connections). This is its first edition, and comes blazoned with “tips and recommendations from the experts at Frommer’s” (also published by Wiley). It has the familiar Dummies setup, and apparently everything from Frommer’s will also be “Dummified”. There is the usual extensive table of contents. There is the handholding; I imagine that anyone buying this book has NEVER traveled anywhere outside their local habitat. At the end there are worksheets to make a checklist for activities, trip planning, and finances. Icons persist, with ones for kid friendly, tip [NOT the hospitality meaning, and this needs to be clarified by the publisher], bargain, rip-off, quintessential. They note that Quebec City is a top-ten destination city as voted by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. There is lots of space for material on budget considerations and fiscal emergencies. For each city, there is a month- by-month listing of activities. BYOB in the Province is discussed. There is pretty basic stuff on culture, shopping, nightlife, food, accommodation, and day trips (Ottawa, Eastern Townships) with the usual names and numbers. Yet only 27 restaurants are noted for Montreal, 20 for Quebec City. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Poutine, while delicious, is best consumed in small quantities”. What I don’t like about this book: it is not pocket-sized and is inconvenient to carry about. In addition, creperies are noted for Quebec City but none is noted for Montreal. What I do like about this book: exhaustive index, including a separate index for accommodations and restaurants. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 3. HOW TO COOK; an easy and imaginative guide for the beginner (Quill HarperCollins, 2004, 306 pages, ISBN 0-06-008391-3, $22.95 paper covers) is by Ray Sokolov, former restaurant critic and food editor of the New York Times. It was originally published in 1986. Sokolov has modernized it and brought it forward to be even simpler for budding cooks (there are no more non-self-defrosting fridges; there are no more heavy chunky dishes). He calls it “culinary special ed”. The book is straightforward, much like the Esquire book below. Nothing fancy: just the basic skills of how to shop, how to clean up afterwards. The primer is squarely aimed at the (male) college graduate emerging from a dorm (after a four-year sleep?). Covered are equipment, gadgets, and knives. He has special sections deconstructing a recipe’s special language and cooking for one. The 150 recipes, some of them new, also embrace full menus and instructions for major holiday meals. Some interesting or unusual recipes: spaghetti alla carbonara, mango ice cream, nut brittle, chocolate cake. What I don’t like about this book: not much, except the binding may not last. For serviceability, the book needed to be hardbound. What I do like about this book: he is a good, entertaining writer. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 4. MICHAEL JACKSON’S MALT WHISKY COMPANION. Fully Revised 5th edition. (Dorling Kindersley, 2004, 448 pages, ISBN 1-4053-0234-8, $35) has been expanded by 112 pages since the 1999 edition. The Companion was first available in 1989, so it has been around for 15 years now. Regular revision has enhanced Jackson’s status; this is the world’s best selling book on malt whisky. There are now over 1000 tasting notes (awesome!), reviewing the latest releases from every distillery in Scotland (plus a few from offshore in Ireland, Japan, et al, in seven pages). He includes bottlings from closed distilleries and some rediscoveries. The first 80 pages here bring us up to speed on malt whisky, including “what’s new?” (e.g., micro distilleries, Japanese malts, revival of Islay, wood finishes, cask strengths, vintages and single casks, and unchillfiltered). Some changes included the fact that Cardhu is now a vatted malt, and the marketing embraces the alternate spelling (but it is pronounced the same) of Cardow. Then, there is the A-Z listing of single malts. The range is from Aberfeldy to Tullibardine. For each, he gives the usual names and numbers, websites, history, house style, tasting notes for each label and brand (colour, nose, body, palate, finish, score). The good stuff is over 70, the exceptional drink is in the 80s, while the 90s are for the greats. The Scores are not indexed, so you have to skim through the whole book to find the “best” malts, in Jackson’s opinion. I’ll tell you now that Macallan 1841 and 1948 rate a 96, Highland Park 25 year old and Lagavulin 16 year old, Lagavulin 1979, and Springbank 25 year old rate 95 each. There is also a bibliography and an index. Some interesting or unusual facts: Nova Scotia’s Glenora Distillery’s Glen Breton rates a few encouraging lines but a score of only 71. What I don’t like about this book: because of the need for colour in the label reproductions, the pages are thick and the book is exceedingly heavy. Not a bedside winner for the faint. In addition, there is no index to the rating numbers, nor are price ranges quoted. What I do like about this book: there is a page describing vatted malts, created to entice the younger palates. Quality/Price Ratio: 97. 5. ROME, AT HOME; the spirit of la cucina romana in your own kitchen (Broadway Books, 2004, 292 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1377-9, $44.95) is by Suzanne Dunaway, a baker and cookbook author of Italian breads. She gives us 150 recipes, mainly grilled meats, vegetables and pasta, and (of course) bread recipes. There have been four Rome cookbooks over the past year – is this now a trend? Two were reviewed here earlier; the fourth is just below. So the question becomes: what is different here? The emphasis is on simple and beginner level, and on Americans. The measurements are US, the list of sources and websites are US. She cooks her way through the Roman open markets, and even ranges beyond Rome with tiramisu, caponata, and pesto. She has good introductory notes to each recipe. Her pasta e ceci dish is very elegant but over salted; here, it is not a workingman’s dish. She has a listing and description of her favourite restaurants, bars, food and wine shops in Rome, hardly duplicating a similar section in the Roman book below. Some interesting or unusual recipes: artichokes with garlic and mint, bucatini pasta with pork cheek and onion, hunter-style lamb, crostata di mela. What I don’t like about this book: despite her focus on simple and US materials, she still has a recipe using hard-to-find zucchini flowers. In addition, there is not much detail on pecorino Romano DOP cheese, or on chickpeas. Moreover, farro is not spelt. What I do like about this book: there is a very good pizza and bread section. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. 6. ROMA; authentic recipes from in and around the Eternal City (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, ISBN 0-8118-2352-0, $27.99 paper covers) is by Julia della Croce, a journalist and cookbook author who has been writing her way through Italy (last year she wrote a Venetian cookbook and before that, Umbria). Here she has 57 recipes from the whole region of Latium (Lazio), which is surrounded on land by Tuscany, Umbria, Abruzzi, Molise, and Campania. Like the other books, she opens with a culinary history of the region, some quotations in the margins, local wines, and the pantry needed (e.g., pecorino Romano). There is a table of metric equivalents, listings of wine, mail order sources in the US, places to stay, restaurant descriptions, and festival dates, as well as lists of cooking schools in the US and Italy. She notes that Moro restaurant does not accept credit cards, while Dunaway is silent. The restaurant Nino is closed in August, but Dunaway doesn’t say this. Only three noted restaurants are in common. Some interesting or unusual recipes: little walnut cakes, farro and cabbage soup, roasted fish with fennel crust, back ribs with sausages and polenta. What I don’t like about this book: at 57 recipes, it is a little short, although all the recipes count. What I do like about this book: I particularly liked the way she writes about how an ingredient is used in Italy, and then gives some regional variations (as with polenta). Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 7. THE URBAN PICNIC (Arsenal Pulp Press, 2004, 351 pages, ISBN 1-55152- 155-5, $24.95 paper covers) is by John Burns and Elisabeth Caton, both west coast writers and foodies. Burns is Caton’s son-in-law; he was responsible for most of the writing while Caton developed the recipes. The book has been described as “being an idiosyncratic and lyrically recollected account of menus, recipes, history, trivia, and admonitions on the subject of alfresco dining in cities both large and small”. 200 recipes flow from an account of weird eating patterns at picnics in the 19th century. Some of the recipes have come from James Barber, Wanda Beaver, and Mark Bittman (among others). Picnics are part of the Slow Food movement, which I guess should incorporate the setup and deconstruct times as well. The one major problem I have had with picnics is this: you must ensure that everybody knows their duties and performs them. Otherwise, too many people have fun at the expense of the few who do all the work. The authors try to use organic ingredients when available. Different menus are offered on 40 pages, detailing 19 themes with vegetarian alternatives, wine selections, and music). Food safety is explained. There is nothing really “urban” about this book, unless you lay out a blanket on asphalt. Any picnic in a park is useful. And leave your car at home. Walk or public transit, please. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chicken liver crostini (Umberto Menghi), ahi tuna salad with green papaya (Rob Feenie), mint julep peaches (Nigella Lawson). Others include potted shrimp with herbs and garlic, nori nut rolls, roasted pear and goat cheese phyllo. What I don’t like about this book: music? How about getting AWAY from noise, and talking to each other for a change. The urban picnic only works with solitude. What I do like about this book: all of the menus have page references Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 8. GARDE MANGER; the art and craft of the cold kitchen, second edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 582 pages, ISBN 0-471-46849-5, $93.99) is by the Culinary Institute of America. Garde Manger is the art and technique of preparing a full range of cold dishes for buffet, banquet, and catering events. This includes hors d’oeuvre, appetizers, terrines and pates, charcutiere. The 500 recipes included in this book are revisions and updatings, which take into account the global cuisine of today. New to this edition is in-house smoking. The book is meant for both students and practitioners. The opening sections deal with history of banquets, the needed skills, safe food handling techniques, the flavours, colours and textures of food for the table Cost controls and price establishment are also important here. Recipe sections include cold sauces, soups, salads (flavour balances), sandwiches, curing and preserving meats and fish, cheeses (including presentations). There are also chapters with chaud-froid, aspics, gelees, marinades, condiments, and garnishes. Decorating and plating are also included, especially platter layouts and design. The book is well-stitched, so it will put up with much wear and tear. Some interesting or unusual recipes: chipotle pico de gallo, Israeli couscous and heirloom grains, soba noodle salad, pan bagnat. What I don’t like about this book: there is no CD-ROM like other Wiley books. The page numbers are incredibly small and hence difficult to read. What I do like about this book: scientific principles are explained. Both US and metric measurements are employed. The print is large with lots of white space (which makes the tiny page numbers all the more puzzling). Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 9. CONCEPTS IN WINE TECHNOLOGY (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2004, 263 pages, ISBN 1-891267-51-5, $39.95US) is by Yair Margalit, a physical chemist who also runs a small family vineyard and winery, and teaches winemaking. It updates his earlier Winery Technology and Operation (1990). His topics cover grape ripening (determining sugar and acid levels) and pre-harvest conditions, a sort of basic condensed viticulture in the first 20 pages. Then come sections on the harvest and the crush, the fermentation (including malo-lactic but not barrel fermentation, which is in the chapter on barrel aging). He covers the operations of the cellar: racking, stabilization, fining, filtration, blending, and maintenance. This is followed by barrel aging and bottling. The wine evaluation appendix is extremely useful for its good discussion based on aromas, bouquets, tastes, flavours, body, and astringency. In fact, Margalit could have expanded this chapter and expounded further. There is a bibliography of seventeen books as well as bibliographic footnotes in each chapter, and there is a concluding index. This is a good basic primer, easy enough to understand, and useful for anyone who wants to get under the hood, sommeliers, winemaking students, or even hospitality trade students. Some interesting or unusual facts: Margalit calls for a new system of ratings based on nose, mouthfeel, harmony, and negative attributes. What I don’t like about this book: a glossary could have been very helpful, as well as a listing of technical websites for further knowledge. Also, he has no discussion on icewine production. What I do like about this book: lots of graphs, charts and illustrations. As well, he has an excellent wine evaluation chapter. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 10. STALKING THE GREEN FAIRY AND OTHER FANTASTIC ADVENTURES IN FOOD AND DRINK (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 310 pages, ISBN 0-471-27344-9, $38.99) is by James Villas, formerly food and wine editor at Town & Country magazine, and multiple cookbook authors. He was pronounced Bon Appetit Food Writer of the Year 2003. These 42 essays are by a writer in search of the gastronomic truth; they are heavily larded with US south references, memories and recipes. Among the topics are Parmigiano Reggiano, tiramisu, San Francisco sourdough bread, steak, salade nicoise, BBQ, grits, peanut butter, big box store shopping, pimento cheese, and Brunswick stew (which can be made with any of squirrel, possum or chicken). In the line of drinks he roams over absinthe (the green fairy), vodka, sparkling wines, Chateau d’Yquem, and microbrew beers. Most essays feature some recipes (3 – 5 each, with US measurements) and childhood memories. Others deal with restaurants and service. Some of the essays were previously published as magazine articles. The index is an all-in-one, combining topics, subjects, restaurants, and recipes. Some interesting or unusual recipes: perfect southern fruitcake, pumpkin and bean stew with country ham, Cobb salad, French curried potato and mussel salad with sugar snap peas. What I don’t like about this book: a large miscellany of recipes. What I do like about this book: he’s a good writer, plus there is a mail order source for grits. Quality/Price Ratio: 84 11. SIMPLY THAI COOKING, second edition (Robert Rose, 2003, 192 pages, ISBN 0-7788-0075-X, $19.95 paper covers) is by Wandee Young and Byron Ayanoglu. Young runs the Young Thailand restaurant chain, and Ayanoglu is a food writer. It was originally published by Random House in 1995. There are sixteen new recipes here, mostly for chicken and vegetarian dishes, 115 recipes overall in the book. Most of the preps can be done in under 30 minutes. The basics include appetizers, sauces, soup, salads, noodle dishes, rice dishes, meat-poultry-seafood, vegetables and five desserts – all the stuff you’d expect to find on a menu in a Thai restaurant, and all doable at home. The print is large, clean and the instructions are precise and concise. BUT you do have to have a Thai larder, and substitutions, while practical, mean fewer flavours. Both Imperial and metric measurements are listed separately in the recipes, and the index is in both English and Thai. Some interesting or unusual recipes: spicy Thai okra, spicy pork curry with pumpkin, shrimps braised in tamarind sauce. What I don’t like about this book: the introduction is still dated 1995; it could have been updated (while there are more Young Thailand restos, there have also been more closures). What I do like about this book: this is a major restaurateur’s cookbook. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 12. RECIPES FROM AN ITALIAN TERRACE (Cassell Illustrated, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84403-212-4, $29.95 paper covers) is by noted Italian cookbook author and broadcaster, Valentina Harris. Here she focuses on al fresco dining and entertaining, eating in the garden or on the patio. The range is from light lunches to picnics to dinner parties. All courses are covered, from antipasti (mainly bruschetta and crostini) to cold soups to grilled dishes (11 of these) to slow roasts, marinaded vegetables, summer salads, and moveable desserts (tarts, puddings, gelati). Over 100 recipes in all. There are full and part-page colour pictures of the finished plate. Some interesting or unusual facts: eggplant and olive bruschetta, lemon meatballs, polenta verde, frittata with anchovies, tuna and parmesan. What I don’t like about this book: too many full page pix of touristy scenes. Also, there are no metric equivalents for tablespoons or any other kind of volume. What I do like about this book: most regions of Italy are covered, with easy to follow directions. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 13. DISHING WITH STYLE; secrets to great tastes and beautiful presentations (Clarkson Potter, 2004, 176 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5040-5, $44.95) is by Rori Trovato, a professional food stylist who’s done over 50 cookbooks. These are presentation ideas, with tricks of the trade. While there are recipes, the emphasis is on the more showy dishes. She begins with the basics, such as tossing a salad, or cutting a piece of cake, or even ladling soup into a bowl without splashing. The recipes are for mains, sides, desserts, and drinks (8 of these). There are even 17 garnish recipes. For each, she gives at least two ideas for making the dish look good. One will always be for dining en famille, while the other is for formal dining. These style suggestions are, of course, given with photos. She has advice on serving and platters for cheese and appetizers. Trovato also goes to great detail on relating the taste of food to the sight of food. Another feature of the book is the party menus with page references; these are accompanied by the party planning guides. Introductory material includes an inventory for food setups: plates, glassware, flatware, bamboo toothpicks, napkins and linens, papers, serving dishes for all courses. Some interesting or unusual recipes: warm scallop dip, Vietnamese sweet potato-shrimp cakes, poached salmon in coconut milk, grilled squid and basil-frisee salad. What I don’t like about this book: nothing says style better than a classy wine, but she doesn’t have any recommendations. What I do like about this book: lots of gorgeous setups, of course. Terrific presentation ideas. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 14. ESQUIRE EATS; how to feed your friends and lovers (Hearst Books, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 176 pages, ISBN 1-58816-243-5, $29.95) is by Francine Maroukian, a caterer and food writer for Esquire. It is a “manual for men”, with menus, ideas, tactics and advice directed to men. Material is devoted to planning the perfect dinner party in “manly” style, beginning with simple but well-prepared and flavourful dishes and their execution. The quantities range from dinner for a romantic duo to a crowd. The preps are straightforward, with nothing really exotic. Everything is easy to handle by both the cook and the crowd, such as having boneless items. Starters include olives, nuts, breads, dips and spreads, and creating tapas. Desserts are mainly cakes and cookies. That just leaves the dozen mains and veggies for the inner course. Maroukian writes about strategy, textures, cooking methods, and shopping details; I also think cleaning up could get more space in the book. There are US measurements and an index. Some interesting or unusual recipes: green olive and walnut tapenade, seafood risotto, Moroccan lamb shanks. What I don’t like about this book: salads don’t have many “greens”, they tend to be heavy and filling composees. What I do like about this book: there are plenty of “tech support” notes, with material about what goes on under the hood. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 15. GREAT CHEFS COOK AT BARBARA JO’S (Douglas & McIntyre, 2004, 120 pages, ISBN 1-55365-040-9, $22.95 paper covers) has been “dished up” by Barbara-jo McIntosh, formerly a restaurant owner but now a cookbook store owner in Vancouver. This is a record of chef appearances at her demonstration kitchen within the store. Some 40 chefs and cookbook authors offer about 100 recipes, mostly from their cookbooks or whatever book they were promoting at the moment. This book arranged them alphabetically, and for each cook McIntosh relates the circumstances at the store, the menu of the event, other anecdotes about food and publicity tours, and some recipes of food from the event (but not all of the menu’s food). Thus we have Jeff Alford and Naomi Duguid from their hot and spicy food book, Colman Andrews from his Italian book, Elizabeth Baird, James Barber, Rob Feenie, Donna Hay, Emeril Lagasse, Gordon Ramsay, Michel Roux, Patricia Wells. Some interesting or unusual recipes: market basket vegetable stir fry (Martin Yan), roasted garlic and potato crostini (Bonnie Stern). What I don’t like about this book: too eclectic a book, too much non- food stuff, a book for fans or collectors. What I do like about this book: Joan Tucci’s timpano alla Big Night recipe. Quality/Price Ratio: 80 16. THE FRENCH SIDE OF TORONTO; the essential 2004 guide to French food and culture in Toronto (Franco Toronto Media & Publishing, 2004, 143 pages, ISBN 0-9733020-1-1, $19.95 paper covers from contact@franco- toronto.ca) has been put together by head writer and editor-in-chief Krizia de Verdier. This is its second edition. It is a “flip” book, with English in one binding and French in the other binding. About 100 pages are devoted to French food, but only 20 pages to French culture (newspapers, books, magazines, music, film, art galleries, theatre, radio and TV, associations). Food shopping is the largest subsection, for sweets, cheese, charcuterie, and seafood. The dining out subsection is divided by bistro, fine dining, and brunches. There is also a small list of cooking classes and schools. Whether French is spoken or printed is always noted. It is basically a book, which tells you where to get your fix of French or French-styled (including Quebecoise) food, not necessarily imported from France, Belgium, Switzerland or other Francophone regions. The directories give the usual names and numbers, websites, nearest subway station, and a written description of what is available. Whoever wrote the entry for Merlot Restaurant is wrong on some points. Merlot is NOT in Bloor West Village, but rather in the Kingsway. “Alsatian-style sauerbraten” is NOT exotic fare. There are sidebars for the history of the baguette, the croissant, Montreal-style bagels, Oka cheese, fleur de sel. There are lists of where to find patisserie, crème fraiche, foie gras, merguez sausages, frozen French foods. Unfortunately, none of these lists is indexed. You can go to www.franco-toronto.ca to download a free “Glossary of French Food” for English translations. Some interesting or unusual facts: oysters require breathing time. Open oysters 30 minutes before consumption. What I don’t like about this book: There is advertising, which helps pay for the cost, and is now a fact of life. There is no subject index, so you cannot look up, say, merguez or mustard, and be directed to a page or pages. Also, the flip book (or even a bilingual book) adds to its cost. The ISBN for the French book is the same as for the English book, a bibliographic no-no. What I do like about this book: there are charts for French food and cultural items, all sorted by neighbourhood. Unfortunately, there is nothing for the High Park area (where I live). Quality/Price Ratio: 89. FOOD AND WINE BOOKS IN REVIEW, JUNE 2004 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. THE BOOK OF YIELDS; accuracy in food costing and purchasing, 6th Edition. (John Wiley and Sons, 2005, 268 pages, ISBN 0-471-45785-X paper spiral covers) has been put together by Francis T. Lynch, a professional chef and hospitality teacher now at chefdesk.com. It is a basic work for students and chefs, and it comes with a workbook. It tells you what you need to know for “how much food to buy”. It is a collection of accurate food measurements for 900 or so raw food ingredients. Measurements are given in weight-to-volume equivalents, trim yields, and cooking yields. Part One of the contents covers herbs and spices, produce, starchy foods, baking, fats and oils, dairy, beverages, meats, seafood, and poultry. Part Two is the workbook of costing sheets and conversion tables. Here, recipe cost and yield are most important. Spreadsheets, though, should be able to handle all of this. There is other information on food prep, purchasing decisions, and cost controls, as well as the proper use of cans and scoops and pans. Other material related to the book can be found at www.wiley.com. Some interesting or unusual facts: take home food leftover from an eat- in dinner (doggie bags) and patron asking for extras will increase your bill. What I do not like about this book: copyright 2005 already? Only US measurements are given, so you will need to convert to metric or imperial. That is why a spreadsheet works better than paper and pen. What I do like about this book: handy spiral bound format. It comes with an instructor’s manual for schools. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 89. 2. CHEF’S BOOK OF FORMULAS, YIELDS & SIZES, 3RD EDITION (John Wiley and Sons, 2003, 354 pages, ISBN 0-471-22716-1) is by cookbook author, teacher, and hospitality consultant Arno Schmidt. It is different from the preceding book. Here are kitchen yields of 2000 ingredients listed by food groups, with sample purchase quantities and suggested serving sizes (especially for fine dining establishments) as well as caloric counts, nutrition, and seasonal foods. Some food groups listed here but not highlighted by the Lynch book include baby vegetables and flowers. There is new material on about 150 previously unlisted ingredients, including ethnic foods of India, China, Japan, and Latin America. There are tables for can and bottle sizes, weights and measures, steam table pan sizes, table and tablecloth sizes. There are even 50 basic large- quantity recipes for mousses, soups, doughs, and cakes. The book does not have the pricing detail or the exercises of the Lynch book. It might be better for inventory management rather than cost control. Both books have their merits. Some interesting or unusual facts: the industry distinguishes between hot-peeled oranges and cold-peeled oranges: the latter is considered better quality. What I do not like about this book: there are only US measurements and conversions to metric, making the book less useful for Canada. What I do like about this book: the copyright date appears to put this book at a disadvantage, but it is realistic. There is a brisk description of many ingredients. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 89. 3. CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING WINES; a complete guide to sparkling wines from around the world (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84000-845-8, $15.95) is by Susie Barrie, a UK wine writer and broadcaster. The book is one of the publisher’s “Wine Made Easy” series, a uniform series of sixty-four pages each, with close photographs, good-looking design and typefaces, and a sturdy presentable hard cover backing. It is obviously meant for gifting. However, I would feel more comfortable if it did not contain the word “complete” in the subtitle. It covers Champagne, cava, sekt, prosecco, and others. It describes the differences in production techniques, the service of wines, food pairing. There are also some recipes for cocktails. Certain sparkling wine producers are recommended, and Barrie provides some brief tasting notes for the better sparklers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Most Champagne houses now produce one wine that crowns their range and offers luxury. What I do not like about this book: useless photos, mainly of cropped glasses and bottles. What I do like about this book: beginner level, easy to read, straightforward. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 83. 4. WORLD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING WINE, revised and updated edition (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2003, 352 pages, ISBN 1-891267-61-2, $75) is by multi-award winning Champagne expert/writer Tom Stevenson. It was first published in 1998; this is the second edition. Ten years before the 1998 publication, Stevenson had written a comprehensive book on Champagne alone. Since 1998, Stevenson has written the annual “Champagne & Sparkling Wine Guide” (the latest edition of this annual is freely available as a PDF file as fizz2003.pdf at Tom Cannavan’s www.wine-pages.com) which has served to update this Champagne encyclopedia between editions. This Guide has some thumbnail wine reviews and ratings. The beginning sections of the Encyclopedia have some provoking general information on sparkling wines (history, development, production, storing, choosing, serving, grape varieties) along with historical and technical photos (over 600 colour illustrations in all). There are even a few illustrated pages on nine different types of Champagne flutes. He notes improvements over the past four years to Champagne, Cava, Sekt, and to Australia and California, but also notes that “the rest of France” has virtually stagnated. There is a chapter for each country, with individual wineries and wines listed, plus a rating out of 100 (50 is “clean but boring”; 80 approaches Champagne quality). 98 is the highest, and he awards this number to Bollinger Vieilles Vignes, Dom Perignon, Krug (all brands), Pol Roger Vintage, Salon and two others not seen in the Ontario marketplace. Champagne has 100 pages here, while the rest of France has 45 pages (way too much in view of his comments on “the rest of France”). There are 25 pages for Germany, eleven apiece for Italy and Spain, 30 for the US, and 17 for Australia. Each producer profile could have names, locations, production, sales, ownership, thumbnail background data, winemaker, house style descriptors, star ratings, cuvee details, and label reproduction – it all depends on what Stevenson has been able to find out, and on the worth of the firm. For example, in Champagne, there are 264 houses and 45 co-operatives, along with 5111 growers who both grow and sell champagnes. These groups all market some 9206 brands; there are also buyer-own-brands of 3,008 labels. Screened sidebars give more full information on important or high rated producers, both in Champagne and in other places. There is an appendix of grape varieties used by all countries, a tasting glossary specific to sparkling wines, and an index by winery. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Champagne is unique amongst French AOC wines since it is the only such wine that does not have to indicate Appellation Controllee on the label.” What I do not like about this book: it is hard to keep something this massive updated. In Canada’s case, Joe Will has not been at Pillitteri for over a decade. In fact, all of the Canadian section seems to be “old”. In addition, the book needs some editorial work (e.g., “infer” was used for imply). What I do like about this book: in addition to the massiveness, there is a great chapter on “The Elusive Quality Factor”. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 92. 5. THE GOOD CARB DIET PLAN; using the glycemic index to lose weight and gain energy (Hamlyn, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 0-600-61100-0; $19.95 paper covers) is by Helen Foster, a British freelance writer with several columns and books in the nutrition/fitness/beauty area. It is based on the Glycemic Index (GI) of foods. The easier the body can convert food to glucose (brain food), the higher the GI. The higher GI means more chance of sugar blues, high blood sugar, insulin resistance, eventually diabetes, etc. You will want to eat low GI food in order to lose weight. Glucose is rated at 100. Some of the high GI food includes tofu frozen dessert at 115, dates at 103, parsnips at 97, French bread at 95. The low GIs include asparagus, broccoli, eggplant, peanuts, and barley. For carbohydrates, the lowest GI is for barley bread and rye bread, buckwheat too. So the lower the GI, the better it is for your blood sugar. The GI is a boon for weight watchers, diabetics, people who are chronically fatigued, low-carb and low-fat dieters. Foster gives a 14-day diet for flesh eaters, and a 14-day diet for vegetarians, along with the recipes. In addition, she also gives another 14 days for a lifetime diet. Foster says that you do not have to give up various kinds of food, just shift a little. For example, make sure that your pasta is durum (proteins slow down digestion rates). Change your bread to barley or rye. Eat different types of beans and greens. Drop nuts and eat peanuts (a legume). Use olive oil. There are some broad GI charts, with items labeled high, low or medium, but no brand names. In fact, there are very few books with comprehensive Glycemic index values: you will have to go a Google search on the web and build your own. I did last summer; it took me 4 hours. Some interesting or unusual facts: Australia has food packaging with a GI rating marked on the label. What I do not like about this book: Does not give any actual GI numbers, just a cagey range. In addition, the index is in teeny type. What I do like about this book: very encouraging writing style. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 87. 6. FROMMER’S PORTABLE CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY, 4TH EDITION (Wiley Publishing, 2004, 180 pages, ISBN 0-7645-4444-6, $15.99 paper covers) is by Erika Lenkert, a San Francisco food and party writer. It is a basic guidebook to Napa and Sonoma and some other places, listing hotels, restaurants, and local attractions, all rated for quality, value, service and amenities. Icons are attached to each entry, to indicate usefulness, such as “kids”, “value”, even “overrated”. The first part is the summary, indicating the best wineries, winery tours, attractions, hotels and restaurants. John Thoreen provides some short notes on winetasting. There are items on trip planning around festivals and events, and wine-buying strategies (only good for US visitors). There is a full description with names and numbers for all the places cited, and the accommodations are for all price categories. Other things to do in the region include hot air ballooning, picnics, spas, horse riding, bicycling. It is a simple enough book for tourists, with separate indexes for restaurants and accommodation. Some interesting or unusual facts: Napa Valley is the busiest hot-air balloon flight corridor in the world. What I do not like about this book: the nine small maps could use more detail, and the book seems to be obsessed with picnics. What I do like about this book: it can be updated by visiting www.frommers.com, and the book is very portable. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 91. 7. THE NEW NAPKIN FOLDING; fresh ideas for a well-dressed table (Hearst Books, 2004; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 112 pages, ISBN 1-58816-375- X, $26.95) is by Joanne O’Sullivan and Terry Taylor, who are not identified, although Taylor is listed as “Project Designer”. This is a how-to book in napkin folding, useful for many hospitality establishments, especially bed and breakfast places where napkin folding may be totally unexpected – and thereby appreciated! There are photographed instructions and drawings. A chapter covers maintenance such as Damask napkin placement and use, washing and starching, bleaching and stain removal, plus storing. The book begins with four basic simple folds (quarter folds, thirds, triangles, and centre point), followed by 40 projects rated as easy to difficult. This book will show you how to make an oversize napkin into a placemat, how to get two napkins with contrasting patterns and colours to come together, how to make a well to put in bread sticks or flowers (minus the water, of course). Learn how to do a deco fan, a bow tie, a water lily, a taper roll like a candle, a napkin shaped like a place card holder. The book is divided into three categories of napkins: elegance, charm (=functional), and whimsy. Some interesting or unusual facts: Vintage linens should always be washed by hand. What I do not like about this book: you have got to have lots of napkins handy. What I do like about this book: useful book for those operators who wish to dress up their dining rooms. Returning customers will note the changes and approve of them. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 95. 8. THE WINES OF ARGENTINA, CHILE AND LATIN AMERICA (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 274 pages, ISBN 1-84000-792-3, $39.95 paper covers) is by Christopher Fielden, an experienced UK wine writer who was formerly a whisky salesman in South America. Of the 25 largest wine-producing countries, 17 come from Europe and five from Latin America. Fielden’s work is an alphabetically arranged country-by- country chapter discourse, with plenty of space devoted to vinous history, culture, lore and the marketplace. One can divide the countries into three levels: at the top are Argentina and Chile, followed by Brazil, Mexico, and Uruguay (which we see at the LCBO from time to time), and the rest (Bolivia, Cuba, Paraguay, Peru, Venezuela). For both Argentina and Chile, Fielden discusses the political milieu, regional demarcations, grapes grown, and a winery-by-winery analysis (alphabetical). No addresses or websites are given, and there are no tasting notes – just a mention of some prominent wines that he liked. Thus, for Argentina, he covers 70 of some 1400 wineries in this enormous country. Some interesting details include that Nicolas Catena produces wine for export only, Moet and Chandron have been in Argentina since 1959, and Bodegas Etchart (owned by Pernod Ricard) has its wine production supervised by Michel Rolland. In fact, Fielden comments on the role of the flying winemakers in Latin America. The other big change in the continent has been the rise of the Big Four grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc). The longest chapter is devoted to Chile, naturally. Some of the largest wineries of Chile have invested in Argentina wineries (plenty of land available, no shortage of water, emerging markets), although I should note that since Fielden’s book was written Kendall-Jackson (which had properties in both Argentina and Chile) has pulled out of Argentina. Some interesting or unusual facts: from the Acknowledgments, “To the thief who stole all at Caracas Airport, I hope he made something of my notes and nothing of my money and passport”. What I do not like about this book: the one and a half page glossary is not very exhaustive, and the sketch maps are too skimpy. There is also no explanation of what Mercosur is (trade agreement between Argentina and Brazil)… What I do like about this book: a unique work, embracing the whole continent. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 93. 9. IN PRAISE OF SLOW; how a worldwide movement is challenging the cult of speed. (Knopf Canada, 2004, 310 pages, ISBN 0-676-97572-0, $36) is by Canadian journalist Carl Honore, who is currently living in London, England. It has all the earmarks of an impassioned writer caught up in a monothought. Much of what Honore says is mere common sense, but I also sense a trend: is slow the new fast? Do you push yourself too hard? Burned out? Life in the fast lane? Always looking forward to things and not savouring the moment? Multi-tasking? Sound bytes? Entitlement? Many people seem to need a competitive edge in life. They all suffer from the imposter syndrome. Only the truly confident can slow down. Honore gives fact after fact, figure after figure….but what does it all mean? The promo material includes several pages brimming with this material from the book, presumably for inclusion in any review. The slow movement is best personified in Italy. In fact, it began with “slow food” in 1986, a reaction to the incursion of fast food chains into Europe. Slow Food is now about sustainable agriculture and the preservation of food varieties in Europe and other places. There are 80,000 members worldwide (8,000 in the USA). Overall, the slow movement is all about living better in the modern world by striking a balance between fast and slow. However, sometimes it is not economically feasible to be slow. You may need to hold down two jobs just to exist and feed a family. Indeed, with all due respect to the Slow Food groups, you may need to have two jobs just to pay for some of their highly priced functions. And I know organic food costs over twice as much as “conventional” food since I am a heavy purchaser of sustainable agriculture. Do you know how much shade-grown, fair-trade, organic coffee costs??? Purchase it by the bean…Other slow topics in this book include “slow cities”, slow (tantric) sex, slow work, holistic medicine, slow music, and raising children. Slackers, unfortunately, have been in slow mode all their lives, and they can use this book as justification to slow down, perhaps even more. For the frenetic and imposter syndrome sufferers, there is a bibliography and a website list (but be aware: you should have broadband service for fast loading. Not). Some interesting or unusual facts: “thanks to speed, we are living in the age of rage”. What I do not like about this book: the style is “pop culture”, and it would probably be best as a magazine article or two. What I do like about this book: dolce far niente – tempo giusto (how sweet it is to do nothing, at the right speed). Quality-to-Price Ratio: 80. 10. UNDERSTANDING WINES LABELS; a complete guide to the wine labels of the world (Mitchell Beazley, 2004; distr. by McArthur, 64 pages, ISBN 1- 84000-846-6, $15.95) is by Simon Woods, a much-published UK wine writer. The book is one of the publisher’s “Wine Made Easy” series, a uniform series of sixty-four pages each, with close photographs, good- looking design and typefaces, and a sturdy presentable hard cover backing. It is obviously meant for gifting. However, I would feel more comfortable if it did not contain the word “complete” in the subtitle. In the marketplace, labels sell wines. They are supposed to tell you what you are buying. Woods does a good, albeit straightforward, job of providing practical advice and tips for reading wine labels from all of the major wine-producing countries. Each country and region, of course, requires some varying text on each label. Woods breaks down the legal requirements into essential, useful, proprietary, and bureaucratic. He starts with the New World (10 pages) and then Europe (35 pages). There are colour photos for examples of labels. He also has some funny labels, which are mainly from the New World (Big House Red, Goat Roti, Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush) and details about back labels (which are also mainly from the New World). Back labels are full of minutiae and some humour; the front label is designed to get your attention. Some interesting or unusual facts: the New World emphasizes grape varieties, Europe emphasizes origins. What I do not like about this book: too short, Woods could easily have spun out a full book on this topic. What I do like about this book: his notes on rise of the back label, and his engaging style. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 88. 11. GUY SAVOY; simple French recipes for the home cook (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-58479- 362-7, $55) is, of course, by Guy Savoy, selected Chef of the Year in 2002 by the Relais Gourmands. He owns the eponymous restaurant in Paris, which got three Michelin stars, plus several other more casual Parisian eating spots. This book was originally published in France by Editions Minerva in 2003. Although it is yet another chef’s cookbook, it is pretty basic and elementary. There are 80 recipes for simple but classic French dishes, with step-by-step photos to illustrate each technique. Each recipe has a prep time and a cooking time, with a close-up of the final plate. There is one recipe per page, nicely laid out with the photo opposite. The contents are arranged by course, appetizers to desserts, and all the recipes are easy to follow. Weights and volumes are in US measurements only, and the shopping list is all US. Some interesting recipes: creamy lentils with foie gras, rabbit stew with polenta, strawberry clafouti, and lamb stew with spring vegetables. What I do not like about this book: the index is pathetic. It is alphabetized only by name of the recipe; hence, arugula and squid salad is under A but not also under S. Mustard roasted squid is under M and not also under S. What I do like about this book: the recipes really work Quality-to-Price Ratio: 79. 12. WINES OF BAJA CALIFORNIA; touring and tasting Mexico’s undiscovered treasures (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2003, 178 pages, ISBN 1-891267-65- 5, $24.95 paper covers) is by Certified Wine Educator Ralph Amey (a member of the Society of Wine Educators), who also leads tours in both California and Mexico. This is probably the first comprehensive book on Baja California wines published in English. From time to time L.A.Cetto turns up at LCBO Vintages, and even Pedro Domecq was once on the LCBO General List. The first part is a short history of Mexican winemaking, and then it segues into the Valleys of Baja (Guadalupe, Santo Tomas, San Vicente, Tecate). Part two covers individual wineries, with the usual names and numbers for addresses, websites, winemakers, production, vineyards. Many times, there is a picture of the winemaker. Each winery has a narrative history of the operation, how it got to where it is today, viticulture, fermentation techniques, tasting notes, and some global food matches. Other parts of the book deal with vintage years, grapes used, festivals, restaurants, and accommodation (but just one!). Some breweries are mentioned, places like Tecate. Small black and white photos are distributed throughout, marred slightly by totally useless borders. These are pictures of places and people, some of them historical. At least they are not murky like in some books I have reviewed lately. The work concludes with an annotated bibliography and a glossary of Spanish language winemaking terms. Some interesting or unusual facts: Baja’s oldest continuous winery is Bodegas de Santo Tomas (1888), now at 85,000 cases. What I do not like about this book: only one accommodation? In addition, the book’s typeface is Adobe (guess what culture that reflects) which is wearing on the eye since the whole book looks like a Mexican restaurant’s menu… What I do like about this book: unique book, comprehensive index, and it has a bit of a tourist bent with details on border crossings. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 93. 13. THE PROVENCE COOKBOOK (HarperCollins, 2004, 338 pages, ISBN 0-06- 050782-9, $43.95) is by Patricia Wells, who launched the book at Pangaea in Toronto. She is a multiple French cookbook author, cooking school owner, and is currently food critic for the International Herald Tribune. She currently divides her time between Paris and Provence (don’t we all wish…). This is her second Provence book, and here she casts her food net over the foodscape of the region. In addition to the 175 recipes and 12 menus (one for each month), she has sidebars for vendor profiles, write-ups of local farmer markets, some restaurant and food shop recommendations for Provence. There are food profiles as well, covering olives, olive oils, truffles, cheeses, wines, herbs, tapenade, and other local foods. There are 88 black and white photos of farmers, shopkeepers, and foods. The book is obviously meant for use in the region, should you want to rent a place for a month or more (again, don’t we all wish…). Coverage is soup to nuts, and there are lots of recipes credited to food people of the region. There is a whole chapter on the pantry (garde manger) items. The wine suggestions for most dishes are for south of France, but there are also a few from other parts of France and even from Italy. US measurements are used. Some interesting or unusual recipes: six-minute cod braised in spicy tomato sauce, pork stew with sweet and hot peppers, cold melon soup with Beaumes-de-Venise and buttermilk sorbet (indeed, there are six sorbet recipes in all). What I do not like about this book: menus do not have page references, so you’ll have to look everything up in the index. What I do like about this book: she has Provence food shop and restaurant names, addresses, and websites. She also has her usual single chapter on potatoes, which appears in every book she writes (of course, the recipes are newer and different). Quality-to-Price Ratio: 90. 14. EATING OUT IN FIVE LANGUAGES (Bloomsbury Publishing, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 302 pages, ISBN 0-7475-6977-0, $19.95 paper covers) is a straightforward book of over 10,000 menu terms in English, French, German, Italian and Spanish. It has been assembled by an editorial of six, all with relevant-sounding surnames related to the languages used. It is meant for the English reader, and there are no foreign language to foreign language translations (e.g., no German – French, nor Spanish – German). About 2000 terms per language are given. For French, as for the others, there is a leadoff section on French phrases (to find a restaurant, ask for a table, order the meal, pay the bill, or complain) along with questions to ask about drinks and beverages, vegetarian availability, special diets (e.g. peanuts). Local words and phrases were generally not included. All languages are physically tabbed for easier locating, although the English-foreign language part runs on after the foreign language-English part. All in all, the book is useful for menu construction terms for the hospitality trade as well as to tourists. Now, with the new countries in the EU, might be a good time to bring forth the other European languages… Some interesting or unusual facts: the book includes US English (eggplants, zucchini) in addition to Anglo versions. What I do not like about this book: there are no pronunciation guides, which I have to view as a major defect. What I do like about this book: compact, portable. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 89. 15. HOW TO PEEL A PEACH and 1,001 other things every good cook needs to know (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 424 pages, ISBN 0-471-22123-6, $42.99) is by Perla Meyers, food industry consultant, cooking school owner, freelance author of articles and books (including the award winning “Seasonal Kitchen”). This is a FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for cooks, covering questions that had arisen in her classes, plus a few of her own. The FAQ goes into how and where to go ingredient shopping, how to maintain equipment, what pantry essentials are needed (plus advice on storage), and the preparations themselves. It is a useful technical reference guide, put together with 150 basic recipes, and can be enjoyed even by students in hospitality cooking programmes or by the seasoned chef. Some interesting or unusual facts: An electric knife opener is very highly recommended. What I do not like about this book: the recipes are fine, but they can be found elsewhere. They are just padding, and the book’s value has been lessened. What I do like about this book: the book is well indexed, which is really needed for a FAQ book. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 85 (higher if it were a paperback). 16. TAMARIND & SAFFRON; favourite recipes from the Middle East (Penguin Books, 1999, 210 pages, ISBN 0-140-46694-0, $29.99 paper covers) is by Claudia Roden, an award-winning cookbook writer (Coffee, Picnic, The Food of Italy, etc.). This is the partial paperback reissue of a minor classic, first issued in 1968 as The Book of Middle Eastern Food and then reissued in 1985 as The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. Half of the recipes here come from that 1985 revision; the other half are new. But all have been updated. These traditional (=old) preps come mainly from Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon. Each country seems to have its own spicing aromatics. For example, Egypt has fried garlic, cumin and coriander, while Turkey has cinnamon and allspice. For Syria and Lebanon, it is the sumac and tamarind. Iran uses pomegranate syrup, and North Africa has preserved lemon and harissa. The full range of food is covered here, from appetizers (35 pages of mezzes) to desserts, about 150 recipes in all, all covering basic foods. There are some relevant colour photos of final prep platings. Some interesting or unusual recipes: dukkah (dip), scallops with tamarind, kofta with tomato sauce and yoghurt. What I do not like about this book: the index has no cross-references from eggplant to aubergine. And sadly, it mixes the expression imperial and metric measurements in the recipes (e.g., uses tablespoon with no metric equivalent). What I do like about this book: one recipe per page, with plenty of variations and easy to read type. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 90. 17. TONGUE TWISTERS; sexy food from Bin 941 & Bin 942 (Arsenal Pulp Press, 2003, 198 pages, ISBN 1-55152-149-0, $23.95 paper covers) is by Gord Martin, chef-owner of the two Vancouver restaurants. For Martin, taste is important, so he uses a variety of flavours and a minimum of salt to draw out existing ingredient flavours. This is another chef-cookbook, emphasizing fusion cuisine (variously known as global cuisine or cross- cultural cuisine). It covers the gamut, from the basics of flavoured oils, roasting garlic and peppers, home smoking, through stocks and sauces and ending with desserts. There are lots of great ideas here, and Chef Martin has added to the upscale database of innovative dishes. Some interesting or unusual recipes: BBQ chicken in a roast garlic crust with romesco sauce, coconut milk and garam marsala mussels, scallop and tiger prawn tournedos with bonito butter sauce and leek tempura and cucumber salsa. What I do not like about this book: sometimes he mixes metric and non- metric measurements in the same recipe, which is an editorial no-no. What I do like about this book: each recipe has a wine match, and there is a glossary of terms. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 88. 18 .COFFEE; a dark history (Fourth Estate, 2004; distr. by HarperCollins, 323 pages, ISBN 1-84115-649-3, $46.95) is by Anthony Wild, a former buyer for a UK specialty coffee roaster. He now writes on colonial history, a sure context for coffee; this is his third book in that genre. After oil, coffee is the second most valuable legally trade commodity in the world. Over 100 million people are employed globally, and even more if you count the producers of sugar packets and Styrofoam cups. Coffee provides a useful source of foreign currency for Third World countries, but the current lower prices for coffee now have implications. The rise of Vietnamese coffee exports (soon to be followed by Chinese coffee exports) plunged the price of coffee. The average price paid to coffee producers has fallen 80% since 1997 but retail prices in the US only fell 25% and instant coffee prices in the UK (where 85% of all coffee sold is instant!) only fell 5%. Wild details many of the prices around the world, but he doesn’t delve too deeply since he is a colonial historian not an economist. But I sure wish someone will tell me why Arabica bean coffee prices are higher in the US than in Canada – and have been for over thirty years. Wild tracks the history and culture of coffee, from Yemen and references in classical text. Coffee was produced by the colonies and consumed by rich countries. It was the product of slavery and other exploitation; it fitted in with the rise of capitalism and the rise of the coffee house where business was conducted. Other topics include the novelty of instant coffee (with its advertising and its popularity), the rise of decaffeinated coffee, GM Robusta coffee beans, caffeine as a drug. There is a small photo section and a bibliography. Some interesting or unusual facts: Vacuum packing is the oldest and most ubiquitous form of industrial coffee. What I do not like about this book: there is a lack of footnotes, which Wild admits, and there are indentation problems in the layout of the index. What I do like about this book: there are some nice details on espresso coffee and blends. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 94. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR MAY 2004 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. AN ITALIAN PANTRY (series of four): Cheese by Gabriella Ganugi (ISBN 1-891267-69-8), Olive Oil by Leonardo Romanelli and Gabriella Ganugi (ISBN 1-891267-55-8), Pasta by Fabrizio Ungaro (ISBN 1-891267-56-6) and Prosciutto by Carla Bardi (ISBN 1-891267-54-X), all published separately by the Wine Appreciation Guild, 2004, 64 pages, $18.95 each). These books seem to cover the basic elements of Italian cooking using DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) products. McRae Books in Florence originally published them in 2002. The cheese book says that there are 400 different types in Italy. Thirty are described here, including the well-known mozzarella, pecorinos, gorgonzola, Parmigiano reggiano. For each, there is a description of origins, production zones, aging, fat content, and taste. There is one recipe for each, covering appetizers to desserts, with wine recommendations. Other material cover the service of cheese, wine tasting and wine pairing with fruit, vegetables and honey. The olive oil book outlines the different flavours from different regions and production zones. Technical material includes notes on the process of crushing, grading, storage and cooking. There are 25 main recipes based on olive oil, plus an equal number for sauces, aromatic oils, and preserves (tomatoes, mushrooms, artichokes).But while there is prep for olive pate, there is nary a mention of tapenade. There are plenty of illustrations of labels and bottle shapes. The pasta book has 45 recipes for pasta and sauces, some historical data, and wine recommendations. Ungaro lists 35 different types, each sorted by region with maps, from agnolotti to tortellini. Seven basic sauces are given. The prosciutto book is more a cured meats book. The original Italian title for was “Salumi”, a generic word for all kinds of cured meats. There are various hams (including speck), pancettas, salame, sausages, headcheese, goose hams, turkey hams, and bresaola (beef). Thirty recipes are given for 25 cured meats. All four books are extremely useful for pictorial identification and for their wine recommendations. Some interesting and useful recipes: green beans with asiago, soppressata and bean salad, zampone with lentils. What I do not like about these books: the pasta book is the least interesting since most of the material can be found elsewhere. What I do like about these books: absolutely gorgeous photos for identifying the cheese, meats, oils, pasta. There is a great chapter on uncooked sauces in the olive oil book. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 2. CONSIDER THE EEL; a natural and gastronomic history (DaCapo Press, 2004, 181 pages, ISBN 0-306-81331-9, $25.95 paper covers) is by Richard Schweid, an editor living in Spain, and author of such previous foodbooks as Hot Peppers, and Catfish and the Delta. This is the paperback reprint of the 2002 book published by the University of North Carolina Press. “Everything you always wanted to know about eels” – and more -- is in this book. As a food, eel is very popular in Europe and Asia where it is grilled, smoked, stewed, jellied, skewered, fried, baked, and made into sushi. It was once popular in the US, but in the twentieth century, it fell into disfavour. European and American freshwater eels begin life in the Sargasso Sea, between Bermuda and the Azores. They reproduce deep in the Sargasso, but the funny thing is, nobody has ever seen them do it! Schweid tells us all about their lifestyle and their troubles with pollutants, their sliminess, use of pots and weirs for catching, overcrowding, cannibalism, their diet and habitat, hibernation, predators, eel farming, and eel consumption around the world. He explores in detail the eels of North and South USA, Spain and Ireland. There are very few recipes, mostly historical, on pages 154 – 159. He concludes with a bibliography and an index. Some interesting and useful facts: US eels have been found as far up the Mississippi system as Iowa. What I do not like about this book: I would like a few more recipes, such as one for each way to process/cook eels. What I do like about this book: it was informative, interesting, and it engaged me. It is a unique contribution to foodways. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 3. drink’.ol.o.gy; the art and science of the cocktail (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2003; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 384 pages, ISBN 1-58479- 304-X, $35) is by James Waller, a professional writer and author of other books (about cats, dogs, and movies). The collection of 400 cocktails covers the basics of standards, older drinks, and some newer ones. Also included are frozen blender drinks, hot drinks, party punches, eggnogs, champagne/wine drinks, and non-alcoholic cocktails (mocktails?). Most of the wine cocktails are made with vermouth, port, or other fortified wines. There is the usual data about bar setups, bartending tips, and party preps. The recipes are organized by liquor, with an alphabetical index and glossary at the back. The last section has a short list of some 70 favourite drinks, with page references to the recipes. This might have been better placed at the front of the book. US measurements are used. Some interesting and useful facts: “Highballs and cocktails – the long and the short of it” (The Thin Man). What I do not like about this book: in the beer section, there is no explanation of what bock beer is. He also writes, “brown ale” is “sweet, dark ale”. Waller could also have put in more wine recipes. What I do like about this book: this is a sturdy book, designed for spillproof use at the bar (waterproof cover, ribbon marker, sewn binding lies flat) and great for commercial purposes and hospitality schools. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 4. FIELD GUIDE TO PRODUCE; how to identify, select, and prepare virtually every fruit and vegetable at the market (Quirk Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 312 pages, ISBN 1-931686-80-7, $20.95 paper covers) is by Aliza Green, a chef and cookbook author (beans, Latin foods). With more farmers’ markets and more produce aisles in supermarkets, there are more fruits and vegetables available. Not only produce NEW to North America, but also VARIETIES of existing produce. Newer items include Asian pear, chayote, kiwano, and yuza. Some 46 different fruits and 62 vegetables are covered, with over 200 colour photos for ID and cross-references to sections on how to choose, cook, and other foods to serve with. Common, exotic, heirloom, and ethnic produce are here. For each, there is a Latin name, some history, alternate names, season for eating, how to differentiate among the varieties, how to choose, how to store, how to ripen. There are also prep instructions and flavour affinities. The book concludes with a bibliography, websites (including wegmans.com from New York state!), and an index. Some interesting and useful facts: Tamarind is the fruit pod of a large evergreen tree native to Africa. What I do not like about this book: the pictures are too far from the text of the fruit (they are centered, part of the production process, which is unavoidable). What I do like about this book: handy paperback size, easy to carry. In addition, while there are no recipes, there are plenty of serving suggestions. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 5. THE BIG BOOK O’ BEER; everything you ever wanted to know about the greatest beverage on Earth (Quirk, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, ISBN 1- 931686-49-1, 208 pages, $27.95 paper covers) is by Duane Swierczynski, who had previously authored “The Perfect Drink for Every Occasion”. This book is all about “beer culture”; consequently, it is crammed with trivia and many illustrations (e.g., physics of a flying beer bottle cap). Many of the photos are historical, as are the reproductions of the labels. It is packed with humour and gloss. There are too many topics to list, but here are a few of the important ones: history of beer (a timeline with illustrations) and beer advertising, the development of the beer can, technical awareness and scientific principles plus home brewing, crafts (transforming empties), thumbnail sketches of the world’s biggest brewers, an account of beer around the world by region (with maps and statistics), recipes and food matches for the BBQ, rules of drinking games, cheap beers, a beer calendar for excuses to drink beer, best bars (plus the largest at Red’s in Edmonton at 105,000 square feet and the smallest at Kenny’s in Cleethorpe, England at 24 square feet). At the end, there is a website listing plus a glossary of terms. The alphabetical index pulls it all together. Some interesting and useful facts: People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) lobbied the Wisconsin governor in 2003, to change the state beverage from milk to beer. I’ll drink to that! What I do not like about this book: covers a lot, maybe too much, albeit superficially. What I do like about this book: a fun book, easy to read for one minute at a time, great illustrations. Good book for the commercial bar. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 6. COUNTRY CHIC TABLE SETTINGS (Sterling Publishing, 2004; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-4027-1353-3, $22.95 paper covers) is by Susan E. Mickey, a designer and crockery collector. If you like a “faux country” look on your table, then this is the book for you. It should prove useful for restaurants aspiring to that country rustic look. She clearly tells you how to select surfaces, plates, glasses, flatware, table textiles, napkin rings, place cards, and flowers. The combination of earthenware, wildflowers, and other rural elements is all in the decorative arrangements, most of which are homemade. Her comprehensive instructions provide most things that are needed to create one’s own atmosphere. Chapters concern everyday use, special fancy occasions (Sunday lunch, hearty breakfast, Mexican fiesta, even a winetasting with a Tuscan farmhouse theme), BBQs, and picnics. Other useful data here include how to choose and care for linens, napkins, tablecloths, and china. There are also plenty of schematics and drawings for place settings. Some interesting and useful facts: the foods you serve can also be table details. Olives and peppers in a wooden bowl make a good accent. What I do not like about this book: ultimately, this is all expensive stuff if you want to do a variety of themes (costs of china, linens, storage space). Why can’t we rent theme china and linens? What I do like about this book: reference and ancillary material is concise and useful. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 7. LAGER HEADS; Labatt and Molson face off for Canada’s beer money (HarperCollins, 2004, 244 pages, ISBN 0-00-200649-9, $34.95) is by Paul Brent, a business-consumer writer for the National Post. It was originally announced for September 2003, but was just published in April 2004. It is mainly about how Canada’s beer companies battle over market share and brands. Carling O’Keefe is included, of course, as the number three brewer until it was absorbed by Molson. As Brent points out, beer drinking is North America is all about marketing, especially to the 19 – 24 males. It’s not about the beers since they are all remarkably similar in taste. The book goes into some history on how the business empires were built, and looks at advertising campaigns (e.g., “I am Canadian”) and the personalities involved. Current operations are also explored, such as the infamous Brazilian venture. Sponsorship of rock music and sports ownership are also commented on. However, the book is mainly about how the breweries manage to maintain their market share. Microbreweries are hardly mentioned (just four vague references). Along the way, Brent covers the beer wars and the border wars: bottle sizes (stubby, Heidelberg barrel, long necks), mixed cases, cans, twist-offs, new brands launched (dry, ice, draft), pricing policies, licenses (Budweiser, Miller, Coors), and imports (Corona, Heineken). Through it all, Brent peppers his wit and makes it an engaging book. Some interesting and useful facts: 1980 was a pivotal year with the introduction of Budweiser to Canada, made under license by Labatt. What I do not like about this book: no mention of Sleeman, imported beers, or even microbreweries. And we won’t even talk about the Blue Jays and the Montreal Canadiens. Also, no tasting notes. What I do like about this book: this is a great book, mostly on the history of advertising/marketing campaigns. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 8. THE NEW AMERICAN CHEF; cooking with the best of flavors and techniques from around the world (John Wiley, 2003, 431 pages, ISBN 0- 471-36344-8, $42.99) is by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, who have made a career out of interviewing chefs and then weaving narration and recipes around such themes as their previous books, “Becoming a Chef” (reviewed last month), ‘Culinary Artistry”, “Dining Out”, and “Chef’s Night Out”. The concentration here is on US ethnic chefs and restaurants, with plenty of tips and advice for techniques (ethnic ingredients, cooking skills, plating). The authors asked the chefs: what makes their cuisine tick? And the answers are the principles that underlie great cooking around the world. There are chefs and over 100 recipes for TEN different cuisines: Rick Bayless and Mark Miller for Mexico, Paula Wolfert for Morocco (now making a comeback), Julie Sahni for India, plus 41 others for Chinese, French, Japanese, Italian, Spanish, Thai, and Vietnamese. There is a chapter for each cuisine, reviewing its abundance, aroma, balance, beverages, flavour, freshness, harmony, healthfulness, quality, regionalism, ripeness, seasonality (produce, local holidays), and variety. One of the keys to ethnic cuisine is to shop the markets. But this works only where there are markets, and in the smaller towns, ethnic cuisine moves over to “fusion cuisine” of doing the best with what you have. World cuisine like this requires you to know the rules (above) before you can break the rules…AS IN LIFE. The chef interviews in this book clearly point this out. There is a bibliography and index, and the recipes use US units of measurements. The book is extremely useful as a supplementary text at hospitality schools, as a tool for curious beginning cooks, or as a refresher for world cuisine restaurants. Some interesting and useful recipes: gratin aux cerises, chilled tomato soup with fennel and ginger, hunglay curry (pork belly). What I do not like about this book: typeface is very light, makes reading the recipes a tad irritating. Also, the black and white photos are murky. What I do like about this book: the index includes the chefs, so you can search under a name and go directly to their recipes and their advice/opinions. Quality/Price Ratio: 90, higher for use in schools. 9. SANGRIA; fun and festive recipes (Chronicle Books, 2004; distr. by Raincoast, 80 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4290-8, $20.95) is by Mittie Hellmich who has authored other party drink books for Chronicle. There is a basic history of sangria, plus comments on the uses of fruit juices, ice, sparkling water or wine, chilling and garnishes. But mostly it is a collection of 31 sangria preps, along with five recipes for tapas and some party tips. The basis of sangria is wine (red or white), citrus fruits, sparkling or bubbles, and some fortified spirit. And of course they are great for lazy summer afternoons, although the drowsy factor starts to come into play when red wines and spirits are used. My favourite sangrias have always been made with white wine, no spirits. Hellmich has separate chapters for red wine, white wine, sparkling wine, and rose sangrias. All the preps are easy to follow, inexpensive to make. Some interesting and useful recipes: Spanish Harlem Sangria, Cognac Sangria, Havana Banana Sangria. What I do not like about this book: the photos are not terribly useful since most of them concern tall frosty glasses that all look alike. What I do like about this book: index works well, and the preps are useful. Quality/Price Ratio: 80…this is a slight book for the price, how about a $12 paperback instead? 10. COOKING ONE ON ONE; private lessons in simple, contemporary food from a master teacher (Clarkson Potter, 2004; distr. by Random House Canada, 338 pages, ISBN 0-609-60967-X, $53) is the long awaited second cookbook from John Ash, culinary director of Fetzer Vineyards since 1990. His first was the IACP Cookbook of the Year, “From the Earth to the Table”. Since then he has written newspaper columns and hosted a radio talk show about food. Ash tries to stick with organic principles (Fetzer has an organic line, Bonterra Wines), but the main theme is “sustainable cuisine” of ethical agriculture for great ingredients come from great land. Disclaimer: Chef Ash is one of our favourite cookbook authors, mainly because he is sensible and all the recipes work. There is very little to top such statements as “Shopping is one of the simplest techniques imaginable for making great food” and “There’s almost nothing you’re going to prepare at home that contains as much fat as most restaurant food, good or bad”. This latest book emphasizes 18 cooking lessons, each with a few recipes. There are seven specific techniques (soup, oven-drying, pot-roasting, grilling, soufflés, pasta), six specific ingredients (chicken, dried beans, mushrooms, salmon, shrimp, soy), and five specific condiments (vinaigrettes, pesto, salsa, marinades, sauces). Through 250 recipes he covers soups, mains, vegetables and desserts, emphasizing low-fat world cuisine. He has a section on wines in cooking and wine-food pairing. Each recipe has tips and suggestions for variations, and this expands the book’s usefulness. For more details on sustainable food, check out www.chefjohnash.com. Some interesting and useful recipes: sweet semolina soufflé, fried polenta with oven-dried Mediterranean salad, herb and pistachio-stuffed veal pot roast. What I do not like about this book: given my disclaimer, it is pretty hard to dislike this book, but physically it is rather heavy. Be aware that the book has US measurement units. What I do like about this book: there is an extensive index, a glossary on products from the pantry, tables and charts, and plenty of photos to illustrate the techniques and the final preps. All of the ingredients are listed in boldface in the recipe. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 11. BLOOD & WHISKEY; the life and times of Jack Daniel (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 275 pages, ISBN 0-471-27392-9, $35.99) is by Peter Krass, an experienced business writer who specializes in business biographies. Jack Daniel lived from 1849-1911, beginning life as an impoverished orphan of Scottish-Irish background. The book is more on the times than on the life. This is a history of early bourbon in the USA, as well as a history of Lynchburg, Tennessee and the post-Civil War period. The times even continues on to the present, when Jack Daniel is now a heavily marketed brand within the Brown-Forman company. So it is also a corporate history of the brand. Krass uses a wide variety of sources, ranging from interviews, manuscripts, newspapers, books and articles. Because of fires and moves over the years, there are few archives within the company that cover the 19th century. However, many items were found in the local public and state libraries. Jack Daniel learned the art of distillation from a former slave; he used barley and charcoal filtering extensively. He was an astute marketer, creating the square shaped bottle, naming the brand after himself, and using the number seven. The name “Old No.7” was derived from Daniel’s first distillery license, #7, which had to appear on all bottles. With redistricting in the liquor business, his license number changed. He wanted to use #7 as a marketing tool because all his bars and customers recognized that number. Interesting topics throughout the book include his run-ins with teetotalers, corrupt tax collectors, bootlegging, land disputes, staff loyalty, the WCTU, the liquor business in general, Prohibition, and, of course, the importance of water. Some interesting and useful facts: the irony now is that Lynchburg is in a dry county. What I do not like about this book: there doesn’t seem to be any mention of the “Gentleman Jack” label as a reserve brand. Also, some of the archival photos are very dark and murky. What I do like about this book: there are plenty of endnotes and bibliographies for documented source materials. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 12. THE SAVOY COOKBOOK (Pavilion Books, 2003; distr. by Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 1-86205-387-1, $50) is by Anton Edelmann, Maitre Chef des Cuisines of London’s Savoy Hotel for the past 22 years. In that time, he had written eight foodbooks. The hotel was founded in 1889 on the Strand in London’s West End. Escoffier was Chef here to 1898. Edelmann begins with a brilliantly written description of the kitchen and staff (3000 square feet, 75 chefs), clearly showing the inner workings of the hotel’s dining facilities, accompanied by photographs. The recipe section – over 100 – follows the cooking day, from breakfast and through lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, supper, and light meals. Each recipe has a running commentary and more description about the meals served. There are also notes on the Art Deco quality of the hotel and visiting celebrities. Both modern and classic preps are outlined, including the Peach Melba of Escoffier, now updated and modernized by Edelmann. The book ends with basic recipes and side dishes. Many of the recipes are straightforward, but do require time to prepare. This is a good purchase for institutions and hospitality schools. Some interesting and useful recipes: saffron scones with raisins, soufflé Rothschild, parmesan-crusted veal Holstein. What I do not like about this book: the index is arranged by course or type of dish, and not alphabetically by name of dish or major ingredients. What I do like about this book: in true institution fashion, the measurements are given by both weight and by volume, in Imperial and metric measurements. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 13. ANGLO-INDIAN FOOD AND CUSTOMS (Penguin Books India, 1998, 414 pages, ISBN 0-14-027137-6, $17.95 paper covers first released in 2004) is by Patricia Brown, daughter of an army officer, and born in Bombay. She immigrated to Canada in 1969, and has since written many articles on culinary matters in Canada, the US, India and Malaysia. This book covers a hybrid of Indian and English food customs, a meeting of two different worlds. The Anglo-Indians are Christians, wear Euro clothes, belong to the upper middle class; there are fewer than 150,000 left in India. The food is characterized by a liberal use of coconut, yoghurt, almonds, plus assorted spices, in roasts and curries, bread, cakes and sweet meats. Brown opens with a brief but informative history of Anglo- Indians, with more material on social development, cooking, entertainment patterns, and meal preparations. There are major topics dealing with celebrations: holidays (Christmas, Easter), rites of passage (baptism, weddings), and birthdays. The recipes open with soups, sides, rice, pork, curries, vegetables, lentils, eggs, chutneys and pickles. The snacks, appetizers, and desserts are mainly British, as are the beverages and teas. The ending glossary is a list of translations of terms. Some interesting and useful recipes: Beef or Mutton buffath, Cauliflower foogath, Fish moley, Lemon curd, Pork vindaloo. What I do not like about this book: in the recipes, the book uses metric measurements for weights and imperial units for volumes. What I do like about this book: large print, very readable, fairly comprehensive, and a good contribution for a microculture’s cuisine. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 14. SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN AND THE ART OF EATING WELL (University of Toronto Press, 2003, 653 pages, ISBN 0-8020-8657-8, $35 paper covers) is by Pellegrino Artusi. It was originally published in 1891 as La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene, and has been recognized as the most important Italian cookbook of modern times. By the time Artusi died in 1910, the book had sold more than 52,000 copies, and the number of preps had grown from 475 to 790. I have the 1975 first English translation at home. It cost a mere $12.50 at the time, and it dropped three recipes, which were not really preps but commentaries on coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. This new sparkling translation is by Murtha Baca and Stephen Sartarelli; it was originally published in English in 1997 by Marsilio Publishers. A 64-page forward and introduction neatly place the role of Artusi in Italian food and culture (this was the first cookbook written in Italian for housewives and cooks who wanted to prepare family meals), and it is well-worth buying, even if you have the earlier English translation. Artusi divided his recipes into courses and types of plates (eggs, stuffings, fried foods, stews, cold dishes, roasts, syrups, etc.). There is also a miscellany of dated nutritional information, some menus, and odds and ends, much like classic North American cookbooks. According to the publisher, “Like most historical cookbooks, it varies from modern cookbooks in the often casual approach to quantities and cooking times (dating as it does to an era before standardized measurements made their way into home kitchens)”. Well-worth looking at, the book should be in every hospitality school library. Some interesting and useful recipes: ciambelline (ring-shaped cakes), cipolline per contorno ai coteghini (onions with spiced sausages), dolce roma. What I do not like about this book: as a paperback, it will wear out if you use it a lot. The hardback version, though, costs $75. Also, some of the recipes mix both Imperial and metric measurements in the listing, specifying, for example, 20 grams of one thing and one tablespoon of another. What I do like about this book: think of it as the Italian version of The Joy of Cooking or Chatelaine. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 15. ODDBINS DICTIONARY OF WINE (Bloomsbury, 2004; distr. by Raincoast Books, 358 pages, ISBN 0-7475-6641-0, $24.95 paper covers) was put together by editor Simon Collin for the Bloomsbury Reference Series. Oddbins is a chain of wine retails in the UK. The book is billed as a practical reference guide, covering all of the basic concepts (types of grapes, methods of growing vines, vintages and regions) along with sketch maps and a pronouncing dictionary. Three thousand terms are identified, in the areas of wine tasting, technical, and wine production, all with appropriate internal cross-references. There are short winemaker notes from Australia, South Africa, Italy, Greece, Chile, and California, which adds another dimension to the book. Some interesting and useful facts: the UK is the centre of the wine world – everything is there. What I do not like about this book: some of the definitions seem too brisk, without depth. What I do like about this book: pocket-sized, compact, carry it about. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR APRIL 2004 ============================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. VINES BUYER’S GUIDE TO CANADIAN WINES, third edition (Vines Publishing, 2003, 252 pages, ISBN 0-9734490-0-4, $19.95 paper covers) has been put together by the Vines magazine team of Walter Sendzik and Christopher Waters. This annual is in its third year of publication. They recommend 400 of 1300 wines (up from 1000 last year), with a higher proportion coming from BC. Over 30 tasters were involved (just about everybody was based in Ontario), with panels of 3 to 5 each, many of them winemakers. I have problems with winemakers as judges, and with no winemaking representatives from BC for a balance. In addition, too many on the panels are labelled “wine enthusiasts” – a word that really covers the territory from guttered winos to sophisticated connoisseurs. I guess that there is a lot of trust here. The book opens with a thumbnail history through NAFTA and VQA and super premium wines, plus a survey of the current industry. There is no mention of LBT, or ladybug taint, which turned up in Ontario 2001 wines but not in BC wines. Each chapter is a varietal survey, with food matches, and presents the wines on a rating of one to five stars. All the wines have prices and CSPC numbers if available. Nevertheless, while the descriptions are good reading, the ratings are all too high -- in my opinion. I have tasted some of these wines, and I would rate them lower. They could all be shaded down a notch, particularly in an international context. All the wines are indexed, as well as the wineries. It might have been useful to know how many wines any one winery submitted: that way the reader could see how good all of the winery's wines can be, again in context. In future, it might be useful to add the names of the winners of the OWA, CWA and All-Canadian awards. Some interesting facts: There is also a section on wine basics, a glossary, and a bibliography. What I don't like about this book: “Legends” is alphabetized before “Lakeview”. In addition, some page references in the index are occasionally off. What I do like about this book: there is a list of Canadian wineries with addresses, phone numbers, websites, email (but no D’angelo, nor Vinoteca in Ontario) Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 2. THE GIFT OF SOUTHERN COOKING; recipes and revelations from two great southern cooks (Alfred A.Knopf, 2003, 332 pages, ISBN 0-375-40035-4, $44.95) is by the legendary Edna Lewis and her protégé Scott Peacock. Lewis is a Grande Dame, and has won many awards for her previous cookbooks. Peacock is a highly regarded restaurant chef in Georgia who has also chefed for two governors of Georgia. Here are 225 recipes, plus reflections on southern food by two enormously talented chefs. Lewis emphasizes Virginia country cooking, while Peacock has Alabama traditional cooking plus nouveau style. Sometimes there will be different versions of the same dish, such as the recipe for fruit cobbler. Other times there are new versions of traditional recipes, and some rare foods from the past such as caveach (pickled fish) or Jefferson Davis custard with gooseberries. Both chefs give plenty of advice and tips (e.g., brine soaking for poultry, enhancing soup flavours through vegetables). There are also 22 seasonal menus, which can be mixed or matched, if you so wish, but these menus come without page references to the recipes. There are many soups and braises as well as relishes and condiments. There is a large vegetable section, with collards of course, and a large beverage section (e.g., watermelon punch). Mail order sources are American, as are the expression of quantities for ingredients. Some interesting and useful recipes: Marshmallows, slow-cooked oxtails over grits, lamb shanks braised with green tomatoes. What I don’t like about this book: too many pix of people, still life, and objects, and not enough of the food. Also: who is David Nussbaum? He is not identified, yet his name appears on the title page… What I do like about this book: not fancy, but elegant. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 3. SONOMA WINE TOUR (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2003, 120 pages, ISBN 1- 91267-09-4, $20 paper covers) is by Mildred Howie. It was originally published in 1984. It is a basic alphabetical directory of well-chosen Sonoma County wineries, with road and city maps showing their locations. Each entry has a website and hours open, and a reproduction of a label – but no tasting notes. There is an indication of who the winemaker is and their annual production. Regions include Sonoma Valley, Carneros, Santa Rosa, Dry Creek, Alexander Valley, and Russian River. There are 42 informative food and restaurant reviews, eight menus from selected restaurants, and 44 lodgings (inns, resorts, bed and breakfasts, campgrounds, health spas). Other chapters deal with special events listed by month, with contact phone numbers, plus information on bicycling, canoeing, ballooning, hiking, riding, golfing and skating (again, with contact numbers). No index, but then, none is needed. Some interesting and useful facts: who is Mildred Howie? Her name is on the cover but not on the title page, and that’s all… What I don’t like about this book: there are no tasting notes, nor even any style notes. What I do like about this book: food reviews are above average and the sample menus – with prices – is a good idea. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 4. COOKING AROUND THE WORLD, ALL-IN-ONE FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2003, 707 pages, ISBN 0-7645-5502-2, $36.99 paper covers) is a collection of some previously published recipes. It claims to be “8 books in 1”, with eight different cuisines authored by eleven different foodbook writers. Here’s the list…Mexican is by Mary Sue Milliken, Susan Feniger, and Helene Siegel; Italian is by Cesare Casella and Jack Bishop; French cooking AND Greek and Middle Eastern cooking are by Tom Lacalamita; Indian is by Heather Dismore; Chinese is by Martin Yan; Japanese is by Dede Wilson; and Thai is by Joan Moravek and Kristen Eddy. There are no pictures, but there are plenty of line drawings. The book begins with an extensive table of contents and a listing of “recipes at a glance”. For each cuisine, there is data on how that culture eats, common ingredients and techniques of that culture, how to use specific tools, tips and advice, and the recipes (from soups to nuts), about three or four dozen each. Each recipe has prep times and cooking times. There is also a huge index. Some interesting and useful recipes: grilled swordfish with fresh tomato and herb salsa, iman bayildi, and basic ragu, curry, stews. What I don’t like about this book: only US measurements are given, so you’ll have to convert to metric if necessary. Also, the paperback’s binding will probably give out, with repeated usage. What I do like about this book: it is hard to find a book that offers better value for beginning cooks. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 5. RICH, RARE & RED; a guide to port (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2003, 169 pages, ISBN 1-891267-63-9, $29.95 paper covers) is by Ben Howkins, a UK wine trade player who has been an acknowledged authority on port since 1963. This current book is now in its third edition; it was previously published in 1982 and 1987. This is an essential book, required reading for every certification program in the world. A lot of it is a concise history of port and of the port trade over the previous 300 years. It deals with terroir, vine species, vineyard work cycles, wine lodges, some tourist stuff on visiting the Douro region and Oporto food and wine. Sidebars deal with other port-like fortified wines from around the world. BUT the main part of the book has not been updated since 1987. There are many references to the early 1980s and later 1970s, such as “Eight million cases of American-made port were consumed in the United States in 1980.” That may be true, but what since? Names of dead wineries are still carried: Paul Masson, Christian Brothers, United Vintners. The updating of the previous 15 years is covered in sixteen pages of preface, plus a listing of declared vintages through 2000 listed by shippers. Howkins comments on ownership changes, whereby two British families dominate (Fladgate Partnership and Symington Family) and technological advances (robotic lagares). Some interesting and useful facts: tawnies are on the rise, as well as many new single Quinta ports. What I don’t like about this book: It would have been nicer if the publisher had been more upfront on the retooling of the book. Also, there is an embarrassing error on the book cover – Douro is spelled Duro three times. What I do like about this book: his frankness about the changes in the previous 15 years. Quality/Price Ratio: despite reservations about updating, 92. 6. FROM CURRIES TO KEBABS; recipes from the Indian spice trail (Clarkson Potter; distr. by Random House Canada, 2003, 352 pages, ISBN 0-609- 60704-9, $45) is by authority Madhur Jaffrey, actor, cookbook author, and magazine writer. It was originally published by Ebury Press in the UK. Of course, all the weights and measures have been expressed in US quantities in this edition. Here are some classic curries – nearly 100 – plus accompaniments (breads, salads, noodles, soups, legumes, chutneys) as well as kebabs (which probably originated in the Arab world but find their greatest expression with Indian food). She presents the book as a cultural exchange, with material discussing the outside influences on Indian foods and the Indian food influences on other cuisines around the Pacific Rim, Africa, the UK, the Caribbean, and the US. Curries are mostly one-pot dishes, so junior cooks can make them. She shows the evolution of a cuisine, including British 19th century curries and Anglo-Indian influences. Sidebars cover the origins of korma, bhuna, goat curries, vindaloo, and biryani. The book is arranged by meat product, vegetable and seafood, with the related curries from other parts of the world. Ingredients and techniques have their own chapter. The last recipe in the book is one entitled ‘Mrs. Beeton’s Curry Sauce”…make of that what you will. Some interesting and useful recipes: Hyderabadi ground lamb with orange, Sumatran lamb curry, goat biryani. What I don’t like about this book: some weird colours were chosen for bright background, and this results in some pages having black print on dark red with no contrast. What I do like about this book: the old menus and the maps, as well as the historical photos and drawings. Quality/Price Ratio: another winner, 93. 7. VIVA MARGARITA (Chronicle Books; distr. by Raincoast, 2003, 111 pages, ISBN 0-81184022-0, $21.95) is by W. Park Kerr, the founder of the El Paso Chile Company and www.tequilanacional.com. As a tequila producer, he should know what he is talking about. There are 60 recipes here, but this is more a “tequila” book rather than a “margarita” book. There are preps for tequila versions of bloody mary, colada, sunrise, martini, mojito, and other converted drinks. Eight recipes for salsas and dips complete the book. So we get the classic(s) plus the variations, including the agave maria (a bloody mary made with hot sauce). There is colour galore, with stripes on every page, fiesta time! Some interesting and useful recipes: the ultimate margarita, or, as he calls it, the “uber-rita”. What I don’t like about this book: the recipe for flan cake is mostly from cans and boxes of processed food. What I do like about this book: just in time for summer. There are plenty of pix of mixed drinks. Quality/Price Ratio: 83. 8. BECOMING A CHEF, rev. ed. (John Wiley & Sons, 2004, 361 pages, ISBN 0- 471-15209-9, $45.95 paper covers) is by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, joint authors of multiple Wiley foodbooks such as Culinary Artistry, Dining Out, Chef’s Night Out, and the New American Chef. This current book was last published in 1995 by Van Nostrand Reinhold. It is an insider’s guide to the profession, a behind-the-scenes look at sixty or so restaurants and chefs, showing inspirations, efforts, and quirks. Some of the chefs: Daniel Boulud, Emeril Lagasse, Charlie Trotter, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower, Madeleine Kamman. The basic premise is that “this is not a profession that you choose, it chooses you”. There are also recipes from each chef, a recipe that held special meaning to his or her development as a chef. Other contents include a timeline of food history, extensive quotes and glosses from many chefs (dead or alive), discussions on cooking schools and apprenticing, working by starting at the bottom, the business of running a restaurant, the education of “travel, eating and reading”. There is a listing at the back of professional cooking schools in the US and abroad (mostly France, although George Brown CAAT in Toronto makes the cut). Some interesting and useful recipes: Alice Waters’ groundbreaking signature “baked goat cheese with garden salad” and Rick Bayless’s “chocolate pecan pie”, or Charlie Trotter’s long titled “pearled barley with seared foie gras, roasted granny apple, and shallots essence” What I don’t like about this book: little on wine and food suppliers. What I do like about this book: tries to cover all the recent advances of the past 10 years, since the 1995 edition. Quality/Price Ratio: a good book for the beginner cook or student, 90. 9. BAROLO TO VALPOLICELLA; the wines of northern Italy (Mitchell Beazley; distr. by McArthur, 2004, 356 pages, ISBN 1-84000-901-2, $39.95) is by Nicholas Belfrage. It was originally published in 1999 in the Faber and Faber series on wine; this is its second edition, fully revised and updated (although the maps are still copyrighted 1999). Belfrage, a well known US and UK wine writer with an MW, has worked in Italy since the early 1970s. He also authored a companion book, “Brunello to Zibibbo”, which neatly covered southern Italy; I reviewed it last year in this column. This latest book is set up in much the same way as the “Brunello…” book was, indicating recent changes in viticulture, winemaking, ownership, and producers. It even has up-to-date labels for illustrations. Again, he argues that there should be changes to the wine laws. The book is clearly laid out with the effective use of bold typefaces and caps. Belfrage has arranged it by broad region, followed by grape varieties within each area. Thus, for the Northwest, there is Piedmont, Lombardy, and Liguria, with nebbiolo, barbera, dolcetto, Cortese, and other grapes. The Northeast is the Veneto, Friulo, Alto Adige, Trentino, with grapes such as corvina, molinara, refosco, Prosecco, picolit. The last section covers “international grapes” such as the cabernet family, the pinot grouping, and the “rhone clones”, followed by blends and sparklers. At the back is a glossary, bibliography, list of producers profiled, and their addresses. Some interesting and useful facts: fascinating discourse on the rise of the cabernet and international varieties, obviously meant for sales increases. What I don’t like about this book: only four sketch maps What I do like about this book: the list of producers have page references, for easier retrieval of data. Quality/Price Ratio: 94 – definitive reference work. 10. THE GREAT BOOK OF FRENCH CUISINE, revised edition (Vendome Press; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 2003, 764 pages, ISBN 0-86565-231-7, $55) is by Henri-Paul Pellaprat. It was originally published in 1935 in France, and in English in 1966 as “Modern French Culinary Art”. It was revised in 1971 and again in 1994. As near as I can tell, this is mainly a reissue with a spiffy new introduction by leading chef Jeremiah Tower. I have the 1971 edition in my kitchen. In addition, it is going to stay there, because there is quite a lot missing. My 1971 edition has 422 photos of dishes and cooking techniques; the 2003 doesn’t. 1971 had 32 pages of menus, now all gone. Also missing is a section on wines of the world (mostly French, and mostly old data: no great loss) and cheeses. Neither of these chapters had any recipes. And speaking of recipes, 2003 has 800, while the 1971 had 2030 in all!! For example, under “pasta”, there is no longer a recipe for noodles with almonds and poppy seeds, nor “Roman delights”. The ideas – and the existing 800 recipes – have not aged any. The book deals with four types of French cooking: haute cuisine, cuisine bourgeoise (middle class), cuisine regionale (provincial cooking), and cuisine impromptue (a la minute). This is the basic stuff of French cooking. There is a concluding glossary of culinary terms and techniques, but while “degrease” is there, “deglaze” is not. Some interesting and useful recipes: there are many cod recipes, especially for salt cod. What I don’t like about this book: the dropped recipes. What I do like about this book: it is back in print at an affordable price. Quality/Price Ratio: 89 if you don’t have any of the earlier editions. Keep the older ones. 11. ANTIPASTI (Lorenz Books; distr. by National Book Network, 2003, 96 pages, ISBN 0-7548-1168-9, $21.99) is by Gabriella Mariotti, a consultant for food companies and recipe constructor. Everything here is appetizer size, suitable for grazing. The typical small servings include soups, salads, vegetables, rice and polenta dishes. More robust fare is included with fish, shellfish, meat and poultry. There are fifty ideas or recipes. The glossary lists common ingredients and how to use them (tomatoes, peppers, onions, garlic prosciutto, salami, rice, polenta, cheese, basil, balsamic vinegar, olive oil. The finished preps have some excellent photos. Some interesting and useful recipes: parmesan fish goujons, deep fried lamb patties, cherry tomatoes with pesto, bean and rosemary bruschetta, spinach and ricotta gnocchi. What I don’t like about this book: seems a bit short – it could have had more preparations. What I do like about this book: both US and metric measurements are given. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 12. THE SCIENCE OF HEALTHY DRINKING (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2003, 461 pages, ISBN 1-891267-47-7, $39.95) is by Gene Ford, a wine journalist who specializes in medical writing about the benefits of alcohol and wine consumption. To quote, “This book represents a new effort at resolving a very old problem – inordinate fear of drinking”. To begin at the beginning; The American Medical Association passed a resolution on June 6, 1917, which included “alcohol as a beverage is detrimental to the human economy…or as a stimulant or as a food has no scientific basis”. In part this led to the American Prohibition amendment. Ford has been writing about moderation for two decades. The basics of what he says (and what most people say) is that alcohol in regular small doses is good for the body, but in episodic, large doses it is life threatening. The Greeks had a phrase applicable to many things: “nothing in excess”. The major problems with alcohol have always been that it can be addictive, that it can cause allergic reactions, and that people don’t know where to stop. The easiest solution has been forced abstinence. But then this infringes the rights of the knowing drinker who can control the substance. Ford advocates a compromise between the wets and the drys in society. He says responsible drinking is good for you, and that treatment is needed for abusive drinkers. Here we also get into economics of medical expenses. The book’s blurb reads “In this book, Ford appeals to doctors and parents to evaluate the data and to intervene in the public health and medical system, which discourage all drinking in efforts to curb abuse”. Before publication, this book was sent out for review to medical, academic, and industry authorities, whom I would assume to always be “on board” when it comes to alcohol consumption. So the publisher gathered a lot of praise from the already converted. It is always the religious and public health (government) authorities who clamp down on alcohol. These are the people who need to read and comment on the book… The bulk of the tome is devoted to credible findings of health benefits in responsible consumption for 30 common health conditions (angina, blood clots, high blood pressure, heart attacks, strokes, cancer, Alzheimer’s, diet, gallstones, kidney stones, and osteoporosis). Some of these statistical and medical studies clearly show that moderate alcohol consumption saves society in annual medical costs compared to non-drinkers. Ford proposes one solution of communication, to get the results out to the media for a wider audience. Some interesting and useful facts: the index features authors and publications so that researchers can check book sources and scientific references. What I don’t like about this book: not much on alcohol abuse. Also, Ford doesn’t really come to grips with the communications issue, not delving deeply into why the word has not been spread. What I do like about this book: along with extensive quotes and sources, there is a ton of material in the bibliography Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 13. CLASSIC BREADS; delicious recipes from around the world (Sterling Books; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 2004, 120 pages, ISBN 1-4027- 0518-2, $19.95 paper covers) is by Manuela Caldirola, Nicoletta Negri, and Nathalie Aru. It was originally published in Italian in 1999. There are only 40 recipes here, but all are indeed international classics. There is the French baguette, the pain de campagne, the Italian focaccia, ciabatta, the Irish soda bread, the English scones and muffins, German multigrain, Belgian beer bread, Greek pita. The authors give times for preparation, rising (e.g., 7 hours, 2 days, etc.), and baking. Occasionally, either dry or fresh yeast is used, or a starter. This is explained. There are ideas for gifts, along with tips and advice strewn throughout. One example: the authors claim that it is best to use mineral water or boiled water in bread making rather than tap water. There are many pictures of techniques and the final prep. Both US and metric measurements are used, with volumes for US and scaled weights for metric. This means that you have a choice of using either 3 ½ cups or 400 grams of bread flour. Some interesting and useful recipes: the Tuscan bread correctly uses no salt, Indian chapatti, naan, and paratha. What I don’t like about this book: there could have been a few more recipes. What I do like about this book: there is a concluding section covering decorative breads (turtles, hedgehogs, cats) for centerpieces, serving bowls or even trays. Quality/Price Ratio: 95 14. HACHETTE VINS DE PAYS; a buyer’s guide to the best French country wines (Mitchell Beazley; distr. by McArthur, 2003, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84000- 953-5, $12.95 paper covers) was originally published as part of the larger, 9000 wine Hachette Guide to French Wines 2004, reviewed here last month. This is a paperback reprint of a slice from that book, covering about 250 modest and modestly priced wines. That’s quite a reduction from the 30,000 originally tasted for the mother book. The country wines here are non-appellation wines, but they have been categorized according to department, zone and region. Names, addresses, production, description – whatever has been in the larger book have been retained. And there is a wine name index. Some interesting and useful facts: Pays d’Oc wines account for one- third of French country wine production. What I don’t like about this book: all too brief. Also, many of these wines are not available in Canada. What I do like about this book: there is a legend key to how aged, temperature regulations, good value for the money, price in France. Quality/Price Ratio: 84, even lower if you already have the larger book. 15. FROM MY MEXICAN KITCHEN; techniques and ingredients (Clarkson Potter, distr. by Random House Canada, 2003, 320 pages, ISBN 0-609-60700-6, $60) is by Diana Kennedy, premier American woman of the Mexican food world. She has written about Mexican food for over 30 years, through many cookbooks and articles, and still lives in an ecological adobe house in Michoacan (central Mexico). This is mainly an illustrated guide to techniques, equipment (calzuela, comal, molcajete, tortilla press), and ingredients. Mexican cuisine is apparently second only to Italian as the favourite of US home cooks, although I’m sure the range includes basic pasta through basic tortillas and burritos. Nevertheless, ingredients are now common in supermarkets. Kennedy gives us notes on menu construction, cheeses, beans, lard, rice, spices, fresh chilies, dried chilies. Her techniques deal with how to make tortillas, how to make your own cheese, how to shred meat (pretty basic but vital), fold tamales, make moles and antojitos. Many recipes cover the basics such as chiles rellenos. She uses simultaneous US and metric measurements, although there does not seem to be any metric equivalents used for teaspoons or tablespoons (how strange!) There is a glossary plus a source list that actually includes four places in Canada (three in Toronto and one in Vancouver). Some interesting and useful recipes: chochoyotes (small dumplings), chilaquiles, chorizo and potato filling. What I don’t like about this book: the index has the first entry for each letter of the alphabet in bold caps, a device that I find distracting. What I do like about this book: there are cross-references to her earlier works for more advanced regional recipes, as well as great illustrations of products and techniques. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 16. THE PENGUIN GOOD AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE 2003/2004 (Penguin, 2003, 460 pages, ISBN 0-14-300205-8, $27 paper covers) is by two Australian wine writers and educators, Huon Hooke and Ralph Kyte-Powell. It comes hard on the heels of James Halliday’s Australian wine companion, from HarperCollins, and reviewed here last month. It is hard to ascertain when this annual first began to be published (I cannot find any record in the current book). The authors give industry summaries for 2002 and 2003, quite critical and frank. Top awards are given by the authors, but these wines rarely make it to Canada. The top bargain red wine is Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz 2001; the top bargain white is a chardonnay not available in Ontario. There are summary lists of top whites and reds, and summary lists of best values under $15Aus. The main part of the book is arranged by type of wine: red, white, sparkling and fortified. Under each type, there is an alphabetical arrangement by winery name and its label. Each of the 1000 or so listed wines has a written assessment and a tasting note for the current release only. These are mainly from the 2001 and 2002 vintage, although in certain cases (principally red) there are also current releases for 2000. Each wine has keyed data on quality ranking, value ranking, grapes used, region, cellar ability, alcohol level, and retail price in Oz dollars. The tasting notes are very nicely written. At the back of the book there is a brief glossary and a comprehensive directory of wineries with addresses and websites (if applicable). Some interesting and useful facts: Many top Australian wine firms are owned by offshore companies. 92% of Oz wine is produced by the top 22 companies; the other 1600 wineries battle it out for the remaining 8% of the market. What I don’t like about this book: many of these wines are not available in Canada, at least under these names. What I do like about this book: index is by grape variety, allowing you to go directly to a producer’s version of that wine. The bulk of the book is alphabetically arranged. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 17. FOOD & WINE ANNUAL COOKBOOK 2004 (Food & Wine Books Amex; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 2004, 407 pages, ISBN 0-916103-93-5, ISSN 1097-1564, $44.95) comes from "Food & Wine" magazine, and the recipes are actually from 2003's contents (using the principle of forward dating employed by almanacs). In 2003, the magazine published more Indian-Moroccan-Mexican recipes and more old-fashioned dessert recipes than ever before. Other topics showed an increase as well: animal protein (29 pork recipes) and brunches. All topics and courses are covered. Moreover, there are 35 more recipes than in 2003, which is the equivalent of an entire extra issue. Each of the 635 or so recipes is sourced as to author, with a short biography at the back of the book for each person. Contributors are noted chefs, freelancers, staff, and professional recipe developers, such as Madhur Jaffrey and Wolfgang Puck. Beverages are also included, as well as a few basic recipes to round out the completeness of the book. What is new this year is that each main course and appetizer has been paired with an easy-to-find wine, listed by varietal name (no brands mentioned). There are also twelve special menus (one from each month’s issues) with page references and wine recommendations for Easter, Passover, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, et al. Sections on wine and entertaining are useful. There also appears to be lots of comfort food and traditional ideas. All preparations are coded as to "fast", and "healthy", and "make ahead". Some interesting and useful recipes: The level of sophistication achieves Gourmet Magazine status, with such examples as "chicken chilaquiles" or "roasted salmon with spaghetti squash salad". What I don't like about this book: tends to wave the US flag What I do like about this book: extensive, really good index, use of two colours, and the wine pairing. The wine glossary has also been revised. QPR Rating: 89. 18. PLAYBOY BARTENDER’S GUIDE, deluxe edition (Sterling, 2003; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 487 pages, ISBN 1-4027-1417-3, $26.95) is by Thomas Mario, former food and drink editor at Playboy magazine. It was originally published in 1971, and last revised in 1979 (as Playboy’s New Host and Bar Book). Of course, there have been many changes in the public’s taste buds over the decades. Here are more than 1400 recipes, organized by alcohol type. The original book had 1000, so there has been a wealth of newly created drinks. Nevertheless, there is nothing here for Apple Sour or for Apple Martini, both trendy drinks from 2001. Expanded chapters in this book cover the history of beer, wine and sake. Scattered throughout are hundreds of tips and pieces of advice. Also appearing are the usual sections on glassware, tools, garnishes, add-ons and mixes. There is an alphabetically arranged index of each drink by name. Physically, the book seems to be extremely sturdy with its hard covers, paper and binding. There is a tassel ribbon for a bookmark. This could be an extremely useful book for bar employees. Some interesting and useful facts: there are some great comments after many of the cocktails, such as “A perfect drink to kill time while waiting for the hot onion soup”. What I don’t like about this book: I found the 80 pages on wines were too detailed. This material can be better found elsewhere. The first spirit cocktail recipe does not appear until p212 (Americano) What I do like about this book: there is a terrific section on bar math and on stocking the bar. Quality/Price Ratio: 94. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR MARCH 2004 ============================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. WIFE OF THE CHEF (Three Rivers Press, 2003; distr. by Random House Canada, 281 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5144-4, $20 paper covers) is by Courtney Febbroriello, who is indeed wife of Chef Christopher Prosperi, of Metro Bis (an upscale bistro in Connecticut). They took over the restaurant in 1998. This is a behind-the-scenes memoir or look at all the frenetic activities of running a restaurant: the staff, the purveyors, the suppliers, and the wine people. It is anecdotal, and, once you start to read it, you soon realize that it IS ALL TRUE. And this is based on my own daughter being the wife of the chef for the past 10 years (but also with two kids under six --Courtney is not yet a mother). Here you can see Courtney dealing with customers and suppliers and staff, all at once, leaving the focus of cooking to the chef. This is the authoritative business side of the restaurant industry. At the same time, the author has a sly sense of humour as she recounts the stories of tax people, unemployment commissions, alcohol suppliers, government inspectors, industry heavyweights. A lot of it revolves around money (ok, so what else is new?). Once you pick up this book, it is hard to put it down. To top it all off, she is an excellent writer. The book just moves right along. Hopefully she’ll write more material, on this or any other subject. This book should be of tremendous interest to anybody in the hospitality industry. What I don’t like about this book: there is no index, which makes it hard to go back and pull out information on themes, people, places or things. What I do like about this book: exceptionally well-written. Quality/Price Ratio: hard to put a number on a memoir, but it is well worth your time…let’s try 90. 2. THE MACCIONI FAMILY COOKBOOK (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2003,; distrib. by Canadian Manda Group, 175 pages, ISBN 1-58479-288-4, $52) is by Egi Maccioni, who is a consulting chef at Le Cirque (she has contributed recipes to them since 1974), with Peter Kaminsky, a New York food writer. The cachet here is the association with Le Cirque (and the other restaurants in La Vegas and Osteria del Circo). The book is really a basic account of her personal reminiscences and memoirs, of growing up in Tuscany, moving to the US as a popular music singer, working with her husband to open a restaurant, with lots of family photos. The 90 recipes are mainly family recipes for the home cook. They include traditional minestrone, traditional ricotta cake, stuffed zucchini, fried foods (rabbit, artichokes, dough, fritters in general), anchovies, chestnuts, pumpkin, ravioli, and tonno e fagioli. The book ends with upscale recipes, such as tri-colour risotto, cakes, an orange tart, fried zucchini flowers. These are served at Le Cirque. There is one recipe per page, and, of course, only US measurements are used. What I don’t like about this book: Tuscan peasant bread recipes calls for pinches of salt and sugar, which breaks with tradition since Tuscan bread is saltless. I also think that the book is a bit pricey for a home-style cookbook. What I do like about this book: the Thirty Vegetable Soup recipe, which is actually thirty veggies plus beans plus five different herbs, for a total of 36! Quality/Price Ratio: 80. 3. FOOD AND WINE MAGAZINE’S WINE GUIDE 2004 (American Express Publishing, 2003; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 320 pages, ISSN 1522-001X. ISBN 0-916103-84-6, $18.95 paper covers) has been put together by Jamal A. Rayyis, a writer and sommelier. This is a basic, no-nonsense guide to about 1,000 of the best wine values available in the United States and, to some extent, in Canada as well. It concentrates on what is in the market now, and likely to be there for the next several months. The criteria for a national audience is quality, value and availability. This year's version has an expanded California section, with almost 40 pages. France has 60, Italy 38, Germany 10 (down from the past), and Antipodean Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, South Africa have a combined total of 30 pages, also down somewhat. Additional material is pretty straightforward: a guide to varietals, wine lists, wine styles from light to heavy, vintage charts, food and wine matching, plus indexes to all of the food, wine and producers. Wines were tasted blind by a group, and then written up. All the wines are recommendations, and usually read with the name, vintage, region, and a physical description, and a commentary, with price range and quality indicated by dollar signs and stars. There is also a mention of its aging potential. So for a Mas Blanc Junquets 1999, from the now-trendy Languedoc region in France: "dry, full-bodied, medium tannin, high acidity" with a comment of “herb and olive scents that spice up roasted meat, chocolate, and berry flavors, and end on an espresso note.” Drink in one to ten years is the storage comment. This is an extremely useful book for the North American market, written in plain language. What I don’t like about this book: many of the TNs appear to be inelegant, stressing juiciness and fruitiness. What I do like about this book: New this year is the section “how to navigate a wine shop”. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 4. SEAFOOD OF SOUTH-EAST ASIA; a comprehensive guide with recipes (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 368 pages, ISBN 1-58008-452-4, $39.95 paper covers) was first written and published by its late author Alan Davidson in 1976. This is its second edition, and first major updating in over 25 years. Davidson, master food writer, has also written North Atlantic Seafood and Mediterranean Seafood, both now available from Ten Speed Press. There is very little I can say about this classic, except that all three books should be in any reference collection, in any seafood lover’s collection, and in any seafood chef’s collection. Here are detailed, illustrated descriptions of about 200 species, plus 150 traditional recipes from Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, and other countries in the area. The recipes are arranged by country, but each seafood listing has a cross-reference to the pages where the recipes appear. The seafood are arranged by family (herring-like, barracuda, snappers, bream, croaker, perch, tuna, sharks and rays. All of them are indexed by 10 or so local names in different languages (listed also within each description). There are line illustrations (great for shopping) and distribution notes. Cuisine notes follow, with matters such as how to use and how to cook. The recipes include such items as mohinga (the national dish of Burma), fish sauces and pastes (extremely useful), and accompanying vegetables and herbs. There are separate indexes for the seafood and the recipes. What I don’t like about this book: metric measurements are used for weights, but Imperial and US measurements are used for volumes, although he can be vague about the distinctions. He does say that American cups are used in the recipes. I have problems about mixing metric and non-metric forms of measurements in the same recipe, particularly since all my measuring implements are in one or the other quantities. What I do like about this book: it is awesome. I’ve had – and used – the first edition since it was initially published. And it has become increasingly useful now that more – and different -- Asiatic seafood are appearing in Asian markets and restaurants in North America. Quality/Price Ratio: 98. 5. EVERYDAY ASIAN; from soups to noodles, from barbecues to curries, your favorite Asian recipes made easy (William Morrow, 2003, 193 pages, ISBN 0-06-008466-9, $22.95) is by Marnie Henricksson, who once ran “Marnie’s Noodles Shop” in Greenwich Village. Here are 75 recipes for home cooking of Japan, China, Korea, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, and India. It is extremely useful for ingredient substitutions; these are all basic recipes without exotic components. Anybody outside metropolitan areas can find the products. Typical preps include pad Thai, beef pho, spring rolls, pork adobo, soba, lemongrass soup, gado gado. Other material includes how to find and store ingredients, what kinds of kitchen equipment are required. Still, one will need at least THIRTY ingredients which one would not normally use for anything but Asian food. This still remains a commitment to an Asian kitchen. Rice noodles and steamed rice are called for, and there is an optional rice maker to own. But no steamer is mentioned, nor is steaming as a technique covered. Most markets will have the basics of rice vinegar, dried noodles, and chilies. All courses are covered, except there is only one dessert (sesame cookies). There are no illustrations, and given its slight size, it might have been better as a paperback. What I don’t like about this book: the source guides for home delivery are all US. What I do like about this book: ease of use, and confidence. Quality/Price Ratio: 81. 6. STYLISH INDIAN IN MINUTES (Whitecap, 2003, 160 pages, ISBN 1-55285-493- 0, $24.95 softcover with French flaps) is by Monisha Bharadwaj, a food consultant in the UK and India. This book was originally published by Kyle Cathie in 2002 in the UK; it is the winner of the Guild of Food Writers’ Cookery Book of the Year Award 2003. The 140 recipes stress simpler fare, just as tasty and easier to make. The prep and cooking times are given for each recipe; these are mostly quick times, such as 15 minutes or so. There are menu suggestions for festive occasions (e.g. Christmas as celebrated by Christians) and Diwali (festival of light). The dishes run the full gamut, from appetizers through mains, breads and naans, smoothies, chutneys and relishes. Here are useful recipes for saffron flavoured buttermilk, tomatoche saar (spring tomato soup), silver clotted milk cake (you can skip the edible silver foil if you don’t have it). What I don’t like about this book: it just seems a tad pricey. What I do like about this book: gorgeous pictures of preps. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 7. LIVING CUISINE; the art and spirit of raw foods (Avery, 2003; distr. by Penguin, 497 pages, ISBN 1-58333-171-9, $30 paper covers) is by Renee Loux Underkoffler, former co-owner of the Raw Experience restaurant in Maui, Hawaii. She is a raw-foods chef, now owning euphoricorganics.com. This book is probably the only major US cookbook published recently without an endorsement by Charlie Trotter; he has authored his own raw foods book for Ten Speed Press. Cooking, of course, can destroy enzymes and nutrients, although some foods such as carrots are better digested (=retrieval of good stuff) after cooking. Want raw sugar? Just drink carrot juice. The beta carotene content is released only after cooking. Nevertheless, there are still lots of recipes here (about 300), mostly dealing with organic foods and preps such as sweet corn bisque. She gives two dozen pages of the basics of why to eat raw foods for what benefits, and then 210 pages on the pantry needed to be maintained and the prep techniques. This leaves 200 pages for the recipes (which cover ethnic and regional foods, soups, salads, and desserts). Contents include lots of beverages, salads, sushi, and desserts (e.g., layered carrot cake, which uses carrot pulp leftover from juicing), frostings, and almond dishes. Flatbreads and crackers can be made through soaking and then dehydrating for 12 to 20 hours at 108 degrees Fahrenheit. She has other recipes for dehydration too, such as fruit leathers. Her processing techniques include juicing, sprouting, culturing, fermenting, dehydrating. Blanching and steaming is advocated for those foods (tough vegetables, sprouts, brassicas) one cannot digest properly. This is done quickly. What I don’t like about this book: the index is incomplete, for the reference to carrot is only to its description, and with no mention of recipes. The entries for “Appetizers” “Soups” and so forth merely repeat the table of contents listing. What I do like about this book: with a glossary, resources and other references, plus better than adequate coverage of the topic, this book is thorough and comprehensive. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 8. COMPLETE MUSHROOM BOOK; the quiet hunt (Whitecap, 2003, 224 pages, ISBN 1-55285-555-4, $40) is by Antonio Carluccio, proprietor of Carluccio Cafes and Covent Garden Neal Street Restaurant in the UK. He has also authored several cookbooks (in English) of Italian food. This book was originally published by Quadrille Publishing in the UK. His first book on mushrooms was written over 20 years ago. This is a great looking field guide, with lots of photos. He forages with a thumb stick to help get at the fungi and also to evade snakes. Tips like these are invaluable…including the advice that you should limit your consumption of wine when eating wild mushrooms since many of them react badly to alcohol. Carluccio has been cooking and creating recipes for mushrooms for over 60 years; this present book collates 150 recipes with an identification guide. Here are thirty wild and ten tame mushrooms. This section, 90 pages, details how to identify and recognize, how to pick, how to clean, and how to cook for each edible wild mushroom. For tame mushrooms, he gives background data on such as portobello, tree ear, enoki, shiitake, oyster. The next 130 pages cover the gamut from soups and appetizers through grains, fish and meat. His recipes also take advantage of the expanding number of tame mushrooms now found in grocery stores, creating such recipes as pickled mushrooms. All the food here seems to be very rich, for dairy products and oils have a perfect affinity for mushrooms. I think my most favourite dish in the whole world is French cepes in butter or olive oil. Other resources here include a glossary of (mainly) Latin terms, and a bibliography of some thirty books. What I don’t like about this book: he uses US measurements only. What I do like about this book: there is an index of mushrooms used in the recipes, gathered together by family name. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 9. CLASSIC HOME COOKING (DK Publishing, 2003, 544 pages, ISBN 0-7894-9674- 7, $60) is by Mary Berry and Marlena Spieler, both prolific UK food writers who have authored about 75 cookbooks between them. It was first published in 1995; this is its second edition. At 1000 recipes, this is a relatively easy “omnium gatherum” of classic and favourite dishes, all updated to follow modern guidelines for using less saturated fats, less sugar, less salt, and without losing flavours. Also, in case you have not been paying attention, there is more availability of “out-of-season” food at the markets. Each recipe here has a colour photo, and leads you through the cooking processes needed. There are plenty of shortcuts, tips, advice, and preparation techniques (how to freeze, how to microwave, how to flavour food). The authors also give special menu indexes as a reference and visual guide to choosing a celebratory meal. Contents include soups (e.g., borscht, mushroom, French onion soup, French pea soup, the usual standards), first course, eggs and cheese, fish and shellfish, poultry and game, meat, grains, vegetables, yeast baking, etc. Each section opens with a visual guide based on the time it takes to cook (e.g., under 30 minutes, 30 – 60 minutes, over 1 hour). These are further subdivided or categorized as to style (e.g., Asian classic, economical, dinner party, family choice, low-fat, high protein, Anglo-Indian favourite, vegetarian, etc.). This is a fabulous idea, and certainly reduces your search time. I wish I had had this book when I started seriously cooking 40 years ago. All of this being said, the book is still a basic book for beginners. What I don’t like about this book: the index needs fine tuning. There was an entry for sausage cassoulet, but no entry for cassoulet on its own. With 1000 recipes, more entries and cross references are needed. What I do like about this book: there is a visual index, and both Imperial and Metric measurements are given (yea!). Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 10. THE HACHETTE GUIDE TO FRENCH WINES 2004 (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 1019 pages, ISBN 1-84000-908-X, $50) is a definitive guide to some 9000 French wines, chosen from 30,000 tasted by 900 anonymous wine tasters. When this book first came out, decades ago, it was viewed suspiciously since all the reviews seemed to be high and salutary. But at that time, there were few regional guides in the world. Platter (South Africa) and Halliday (Australia) did not exist. The current book is more a technical guide; the editorial teams are all drawn from research or university positions. The listings are alphabetical by region and appellation. Tasting notes are given for every wine which has been starred. About one-third of the wines selected have not been starred; consequently, there are no notes. So we have TNs for about 6000 wines, ranging from one to three stars. Each wine – whether starred or not – gets producer data (names and numbers, emails, availability), production notes, prices, etc. The indexes are by name of the wine, appellation, commune, and producer. So it is relatively quick and easy to locate data, and to find your way around the book. The 49 maps of wine-growing regions are not very detailed. Separate chapters cover the topics of sweet wines, fortified wines, vins de pays, so here are data about Banyuls, various Muscats, Pineau, etc. Other material covered includes an explanation of AOC and the labels by region, the art of tasting wine, and wine and food matches. “News from the French Wine World” is a 25-page account of mainly vintage conditions and weather; there is information for each region of France. Overall the level of accuracy seems good, although errors probably do creep in. For example, Calvet de Calvet Chardonnay 2002, a vin de pays, is described as “this Chardonnay 2002, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah grape varieties, with a beautiful golden robe and a nose redolent of honeysuckle” (p.939). I think not. What I don’t like about this book: a handful of producers did not participate, and these are not specified. Also, don’t expect to find many inexpensive French wines which are destined for the export market. This book, while it has Robert Skalli’s excellent Merlot 2001, has no Fortant de France listed. This means (a) it failed the taste test, or (b) it was not submitted, or (c) exports only were not included. Take your pick, for the book won’t tell you. What I do like about this book: there is a very informative section about winemaking in France, a comprehensive glossary, along with some reproductions of labels. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 11. I DON’T KNOW MUCH ABOUT WINE…BUT I KNOW WHAT I LIKE (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84000-844-X, $12.95 paper covers) is by Simon Woods, an informative UK wine writer and book author who also edited “Which? Wine Guide”. Last year there were two guides to wine meant for women. This year, here’s a listing (men always like lists) of 50 ways to get more out of wine drinking. It is pitched to young men. (Disclaimer: I am mentioned in this book, and complimented for my website.) In addition, none of that there pretty coloured stuff: just black and white drawings, please, and give me several different typefaces and sizes. This is irreverence with a hip writing style. His lists and rules include all the sensible ones (e.g., if it sounds cheap, it probably tastes cheap; say “no” to chardonnay; what goes on in a winery expressed by guy talk). Topics include just about everything: New World vs. Old World and attitudes, terroir, flavours and styles, wine cellars, wine terms, wine on the Internet, joining wine clubs, wine books, how to organize wine tastings, vintage charts, rules in restaurants, overrated wines, underrated wines. But in tearing apart the wine press, Woods does not mention at all any critiquing of regular wines. He says that some wine critics are “afraid to recommend expensive wine”, but I don’t think so. I’d like to know why critics don’t slam plonk or overpriced wine. He doesn’t mention this. What I don’t like about this book: there is index, and the binding is not very sturdy. What I do like about this book: his writing style. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 12. ACCESS CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY, 6th ed. (HarperCollins, 2004, 240 pages, ISBN 0-06-053077-4, $29.95 paper covers) is a user-friendly guide that marries travel and wine. The title is misleading since it actually only refers to California wine country NORTH of San Francisco. There is no Livermore, no Monterey, no Santa Barbara, etc. So here are Napa, Sonoma. Russian River, Mendocino, Lake Counties, featuring their top attractions and “worth a detour” sights. What’s here? Wine tasting events, fundraisers, restaurants, hotels, shopping, nightlife, offbeat places too…There are “Best” sections which list activities from local vineyard owners. 175 wineries and vineyards are tracked, large and small, which welcome visitors (listed are names and numbers, websites). There are profiles on the major vintners. As with any handbook, there are lots of symbols and legends to decode, along with a colour-coded system for retrieval of data, maps of the areas (and thumbnail maps with street locations and a street-by-street approach). Thirty five spas (what’s California without spas?) are also noted. The indexes are pretty good, and include the star ratings and prices for the wines, so that you don’t have to go to the main text to find a recommendation. What I don’t like about this book: it is slightly too tall to be comfortable for hand holding and for driving. What I do like about this book: there is a section for gay travelers Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 13. JAMES HALLIDAY’S WINE ODYSSEY (HarperCollins, 2003, 287 pages, ISBN 0- 7322-7831-7, $35 paper covers) is by the well-known Australian wine writer and co-founder of www.winepros.com.au. It covers his travels, wine- tasting, and work in the vineyards around the world for the year 2002. Hopefully, this will be an annual publication. The arrangement is chronological, and his daily entries are complemented by his photos (but not for every day). In 2002, he visited New York, Italy, New Zealand, California, France, Portugal, Canada, and everywhere in Australia. He judged wine competitions, lectured, holidayed in France at his Burgundy house, consulted for Coldstream Hills in Victoria’s Yarra Valley (a winery which he once owned), and took airplane trips. Some parts of this diary have been reprinted from his newspaper, magazine, and Internet writings for the year; these are set off in a smaller typeface. The material flows by, anecdotally. One time his tape recorder was not turned on, and he lost all his spoken notes. Weather gets mentioned a lot. So do personalities in the wine trade. Then there is the grind of tasting: when judging or writing up for his “Companion” (see next review), he has to taste all young wines. This leads to a lot of tannins, high acids, unresolved flavours, and oak tones. By contract, he spends 70 days working at Coldstream Hills. Indeed, he and his wife still live in a home adjacent to the property. So we learn all about the harvest and vinification. This is a fascinating account, and it could have been a separate section instead of part of the chronological sequence. But then it wouldn’t be a diary anymore. What I don’t like about this book: it is largely non-critical, a good read, but hard to go back to it again. There is no index or subject guide. What I do like about this book: a fascinating account, especially the sections dealing with the demands on his palate (he uses Sensodyne toothpaste, he refreshes his palate during a white wine tasting with a club soda rinse, he uses green olives as a refresher for tasting red wines). Quality/Price Ratio: 91 (buy this book to encourage more of his diaries) 14. JAMES HALLIDAY’S AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANION. 2004 edition (HarperCollins, 2003, 594 pages, ISBN 0-7322-7625-X, $29.95 paper covers) is by the recognized Oz wine authority, wine judge, wine author, and winemaker (now consulting for his previously-owned Coldstream Hills). Australia is now the fifth largest wine producer in the world, and the third largest by value. This is the definitive guide to Australian wines and wineries, like Platter is to South Africa. Halliday provides tasting notes and background data, vintage-specific starred ratings, optimal drinking times, food pairing. It is alphabetical in arrangement, without regard to region, from Abbey Rock to Zilzie Wines. 1500 wineries are thus described: the usual names and numbers, winemaker, production, product range, price range, ratings, best drinking dates, best vintages, food-wine pairings. The index is by region. There is a “Best” section, with top wines from 5000 tasting notes (April 2002 through March 2003), plus best values under $10 Australian. In this latter category we can find such wines available in Ontario from De Bertoli, Angove’s, Yalumba, Jacob’s Creek, Jindalee, and Lindeman’s. In his listing, there are 240 new wineries since the previous edition. There are 2705 tasting notes in the book. But of his 5000 wines tasted, 43% rated 87 points or more, and 38% were below 80 points. The introductory matter of 40 pages includes stuff about vintage dates, grape variety plantings, the 2003 vintage. What I don’t like about this book: a massive book, but missing cask wines and –- important to us – export labels and names. What I do like about this book: he includes Coldstream Hills, a winery he once owned but now just consults for, but he does not rate the wines. Quality/Price Ratio: 96 (are you kidding? at this price level?) 15. TAPAS BAR; casual Spanish cooking at home (Silverback Books, 2003; distr. by Whitecap, 120 pages, ISBN 1-930603-82-7, $22.95 paper covers) is by Sophie Brissaud. It was originally published in French in 2000 by Hachette. “Tapas” used to be simple bar-food, usually made from something out of a can or a bottle or otherwise preserved (think chorizo), but now it is a high- concept trend. The Spanish tradition is “tapeo”, going out for an aperitif and nibbles before the main meal. Of course, the main meal in Spain is 10PM. The tapeo begins about 8PM, which makes it a convenient device for North Americans to eat a whole meal, and skip the mains altogether. Small dishes equal grazing. Western-styled tapas bars are springing up everywhere, mainly because they fill a consumer need and the tapas are easy to prepare, even by bar help. Plates of nuts, olives, chorizo, beans, omelets, slivers of anything fried or frilled. And lots of it cold or room temperature. Perfect for any labour- and storage- conscious restaurant. Brissaud’s book has some quick ideas for the more healthy side of tapas. 78 recipes, Spanish in origin, have been arranged by season, beginning with the spring, plus a chapter on desserts. Each recipe indicates prep time, rising time (if needed), and cooking time. She has lots of seafood, cheese, and pork, and not as many beans or veggies. Here are such as allioli potatoes, garlic shrimp, calamari fries, dates stuffed with chorizo, dried fruit marmalade, anise cookies. What I don’t like about this book: the index is by product name only. The layout has too many distracting colours. The ingredient lists in each recipe is in too tiny a typeface for ease of reading. What I do like about this book: here are some good ideas for a basic appetizer list in restaurants. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR FEBRUARY 2004 ================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing , dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor 1. WINE REPORT 2004 (Dorling Kindersley, 2003, 384 pages, ISBN 0-7894- 9630-5, $23 paper covers) is edited by Tom Stevenson, also author of the New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia (see below) and a book on Champagne (which he is generously giving away for free via the Internet). This Wine Report is in its first edition as an annual; its success will ensure that there will be another next year. It is a totally different book than the normal guide or basic wine book. The book reports on what happened during the previous 12 months. It will never go out-of-date, so hang onto your copy. The Wine Report is a sort of insiders guide to the world of wine, with the latest data from each wine region, plus tips on recent vintages and on your wine investments. There are sections for new wine finds, bargains, the latest harvests, wine science, and the greatest wines. The contents are arranged by country and region within, with local experts (each credited, and with a photo). Many have MWs. Writers include David Peppercorn on Bordeaux, Clive Coates on Burgundy, Nicholas Belfrage on Italy, Julian Jeffs on Sherry, John Platter on South Africa, Dan Berger on California, and our own Tony Aspler on Canada. Each writer gets several pages for each region, and conveys an assessment of recent vintages and hard hitting opinions, followed by key top ten type lists of the greatest wine producers, the fastest-improving producers, up and coming producers, best-value producers, greatest quality, best bargains, and “Most exciting or unusual finds”. There are 40 contributors in all, which is the only way to write up something as comprehensive as this Wine Report. No one writer can keep abreast of it all, and still offer a book at a decent price. Other textual matters within each region are topics concerning personnel changes, mergers and acquisitions, new appellations, new wine laws, legal cases, new wines and changes and new vintages. Local prices of origin are also given, which is a boon (compare them to the Canadian or LCBO prices). There is also a large, useful section on resource tools (also written by individuals) which deals with organic wines, grape varieties, wine auctions, viticulture, and wine on the web (Tom Cannavan). Some suggestions for improvement: an annual review (after a recap) of the existing book and magazine literature, email addresses for the contributors. What I don’t like about this book: some minor typos, such as QVA for VQA, and et all for et al (unless that was meant to be a joke), and “2003” was given at one point for 2002. Also, many of the contributor’s photos are murky. What I do like about this book: I don’t think that there is a better wine book out there for the wine professional or sommelier, especially since just about everything in this book is NEW and promises to keep one fully informed and up-to-date. Quality/Price Ratio: 98 – please buy this book to ensure next year’s publication! 2. STEVEN RAICHLEN’S BIG FLAVOR COOKBOOK (Black Dog & Leventhal Publishers, 2003; distr. by T.Allen, 388 pages, ISBN 1-57912-329-5, $29.95) is by a multi-James Beard and IACP/Julia Child cookbook winner, and who has also specialized in BBQ books and BBQ television shows. The promo bumpf says: “440 irresistible and healthy recipes from around the world”. The title page (the bibliographic authority) says: “445”. Both the cover and the dust jacket claim “450”. My, my, my…The material was originally published in his “High-Flavor, Low Fat Cooking” series (eight books, covering vegetarian, Italian, Mexican, appetizers, desserts, chicken). Different cooking techniques can slash the amount of butter and oil required in traditional dishes. Add in more healthy beans and vegetables, use fresh herbs and spices, marinades and condiments, and voila! Flavour replaces fat…I have used Raichlen’s first book in the series (200 plus recipes) since it was first published. While I have never been able to lose weight using these recipes, I’ve certainly gotten more flavours and I have never put on weight. Every course is covered, appetizers to desserts, with comments on each recipe, mainly dealing with the need to cut down on fats. He also has basic recipes for stocks and techniques. The work is clearly at an intermediate level. What I don’t like about this book: a comprehensive index, but unfortunately teeny tiny print. There are only US measurements, for the US market. What I do like about this book: each recipe has counts for calories, protein, fat, saturated fat, carbohydrates, sodium and cholesterol. Quality/Price Ratio: 90 – higher if you don’t already have the other books. 3. BILLY'S BEST BOTTLES; Billy Munnelly's annual guide to the best wine at your local liquor store (distr. by Whitecap Books, 2003, 156 pages, ISBN 0-9693717-5-6, $21.95 spiral bound) is now in its 14th edition. I got it too late for inclusion in my annual gift article, wherein I discussed other wine annuals. The wines in Billy's listings are all available at the LCBO's General List in Ontario; most will also be found in other provinces and American states. He leads off with his top 100 wine picks and series of "best" wines -- for pizza, for BBQ burgers, steak, romance, movie at home, under $10, etc. His "Wine Spectrum Chart" (also at www.billysbestbottles.com) is for food and mood matches, based on fresh wines, medium (body) wines, and rich wines, subdivided by white and red. This is the "Six Pack" approach to wine drinking. Each wine has advice on how to serve plus plenty of food matches and ideas (but the recommendations for pizza are for tomato- sauce and cheese pizzas only). There is a wine calendar for upcoming events in Ontario, but mainly the GTA region. New this issue are the two indexes, wines by category and wines by country. What I don't like about this book: it can be too cute in style; it still needs some proofreading (e.g. “Vinhos de Espana”? Portuguese wines of Spain? I think not…Or “Sauvig-non”? A bad break for the wine…); and the index can be ripped out in the store for a two leaf listing of the 100 wines. This is the major drawback of any spiral bound book. What I do like about this book: it exhibits a no-nonsense commonsense approach to wine. There is an updated list of LCBO store locations. QPR rating: 87. 4. THE ACE BAKERY COOKBOOK; recipes for and with bread (Whitecap, 2003, 224 pages, ISBN 1-55285-507-4, $28.95 paper covers) is by Linda Haynes, co-founder and co-owner of the bakery, established in Toronto in 1993. Ace supplies artisan bread to about 700 restaurants, hotels, caterers, and retail stores in Ontario, Quebec, and upstate New York. The baguette is their best seller. This book has recipes mainly developed for the fresh bread store and café. Most of the 160 recipes are on what to do with bread, not about making the bread. She does tell you how to make calabrese, focaccia, scacciata, soda bread, pain au lait (basic bread), grain bread, date and walnut loaf, scones and muffins, and a few others. And unlike many other bread books, Haynes goes out of her way to tell everybody to weigh (scale) the ingredients, as a professional baker would. Typical dishes include soups and salads, picnics, main courses, and some terrific desserts such as bread puddings (of course), Charlottes, and ice cream sandwiches. Many recipes in the dessert section call for breadcrumbs. There is a glossary and a bibliography. What I don’t like about this book: sadly, there is no recipe for her renowned baguette. Also, the ingredients list in each recipe can be a bit hard to read (light beige ink) What I do like about this book: the cornbread recipes have no sugar Quality/Price Ratio: 5. HOMEBAKING; the artful mix of flour and tradition around the world (Random House Canada, 2003, 444 pages, ISBN 0-679-31274-9, $60) is by multiple-award winners Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, authors of Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet, and of Seductions of Rice and Flatbreads & Flavors. (And all of their books are updated by their biweekly “Tastes and Travels” column in the National Post). And as with their previous books, this one is a combination of travel, stories, recipes, and photographs – all collected from their travels. Here are 200 recipes, some amalgamated with recipes from their friends, their families, and their files. All are kitchen tested, of course, for the North American audience. Restaurants can profit from this book too…The book is a relatively easy approach to sweets and savories, although a bit sprawling. It is not as well-focused as their other books. Pastries, breads, smaller breads, cakes, and cookies are all given about 100 pages each. Thus, there is pissaladiere (pastry version), treacle tart, ricotta pie, rugelach, Mediterranean phyllo-semolina pie, central Asian lamb pies, New York style calzones, and mixed-greens pies. And also 18 recipes for flatbreads… What I don’t like about this book: the book is really too heavy to be used constantly (you might want to copy out the recipes in advance). Sadly, there are US measurements only (despite being a “Canadian” book), albeit with a metric conversion table at the rear which will mean a lot of flipping back and forth. What I do like about this book: at the beginning, there is a section indexing food as to – last minute baking, to feed a hungry crowd, gluten-free, to take as presents, etc. Also, there is an informative glossary and bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 6. THE NEW SOTHEBY’S WINE ENCYCLOPEDIA; a comprehensive reference guide to the wines of the world. Third edition. (Dorling Kindersley, 2001, 600 pages, ISBN 0-7894-8039-5, $80) is by Tom Stevenson, prolific wine writer (more than a score of literary awards, more than a score of books, in the business about 30 years). It is arranged geographically, covering all the wine-growing areas, history and reputation. There are useful maps and photos. There are sections on all the factors affecting taste and quality. Stevenson authors many profiles of important producers, giving assessments of individual wines. He also has a section on enjoying wines, including wine tasting; wine and food, star ratings, taste charts to profile flavours, flaws in wines, and vintage charts back to 1967 in general, with earlier mentions for key years. The book concludes with a glossary and an extensive index. Stevenson gives detailed coverage of the whole world; he is also a good writer. For some reason, DK had chosen to launch or relaunched the book in Canada in the fall of 2003, despite the 2001 publication date. Canada gets six pages, all of it old even in 2001. For example, the entry on Inniskillin fails to mention Vincor, and there is nothing on Jackson Triggs. London Winery is mentioned, but it closed a long time ago. It cannot be easy to keep books up-to-date. What I don’t like about this book: it could be too lush and plush in size. The reproductions of the labels carry dates that are 10 years or older! What I do like about this book: “author’s choice” section lists the best wines, with a lengthy description and aging ability. Quality/Price Ratio: 87, even less as time erodes it, 7. FRENCH FOOD AT HOME (William Morrow, 2003, 229 pages, ISBN 0-06- 008771-4, $38.95) is by Laura Calder, Paris correspondent for Vogue Entertaining. These are the classics, easy to make, friendly recipes making use of North American ingredients. So friendly, in fact, that she doesn’t use many French titles for the preps. Her Chicken in Vinegar is really Poulet au vinaigre and her Housewife Chicken (what a boring name!!) is Poulet fermiere. Her Pepper Steak is, of course, Steak au poivre, and her Pot on the Fire is the more romantic sounding Pot-au-feu. Why was this done? Appetizers include tapenade, eggplant tartine, French popcorn (uses herbes de Provence), gougers, touiles, mussels, wine sausage. She also has chapters dealing with quick food, leisurely food (lamb tagine); side dishes (endives, olive potatoes). Most of the book deals with bistro-type food, a bit on the fatty but flavoursome side, and also quick. It can be rated at the easy level, with one recipe per page or so. What I don’t like about this book: there is an erratic use of metric measurements in the recipes: some have them, and some don’t, and sometimes she mixes them, which is a no-no and a sign of sloppy editing. What I do like about this book: the comprehensive index is by ingredient and dish name. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 8. RAW SPIRIT; in search of the perfect dram (Century, 2003; distr. by Random House Canada, 368 pages, ISBN 1-8441-3195-5, $45) is by Iain Banks, a best-selling Scottish novelist. On page three he writes: “This is a book more than nominally about single-malt whisky, about the art of making it and the pleasure to be had in consuming it. It is also, partly, about the business of selling and promoting the stuff, about the whisky industry in general, about drink in general…drinking whisky is never about just drinking whisky…we tend to drink in a social context, with family, friends…Even if we resort to drinking alone, we drink with memories and ghosts.” So be it. Part travelogue, part whisky lore, part rambling, Banks’ account is certainly well-written. He visits large and small distilleries, traveling by car, bicycle, and ferry. His eclectic writing style manages to cover all of his incidents and the people he has met. And of course the whisky he has consumed. Along the way he delves into the history and the production of whisky in Scotland. At the back of the book there is a bibliography and a pronunciation guide. What I don’t like about this book: no index and no maps. What I do like about this book: informative and vivid writing style. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 9. MEZE; small plates to savor and share from the Mediterranean table (William Morrow, 2003, 197 pages, ISBN 0-688-17511-2, $38.95) is by Diane Kochilas, author of The Glorious Foods of Greece, and other cookbooks celebrating Greek cuisine. She also owns Villa Thanassi (and a cooking school) on the island of Ikaria in Greece. “Meze” here means “middle”, as in the middle of the day between lunch and dinner. Therefore, it is a “snack”. One doesn’t eat meze at the table but away from the table. In this context, one is poised to talk and to drink. Thus, here are scores of recipes meant to accompany long hours of talking and sociability and drinking. And like little plates from everywhere (think tapas), many will make a full meal. She opens with platters: vegetarian, seafood, meat, with about a dozen items on each. Typical meze are fresh fish (e.g., anchovies and sardines, both of which are hard to find in North America outside of a handful of urban areas), skewers, meatballs, finger foods, fritters, beans, fried potatoes, sausages, salads, eggs, cheese, nuts, and different types of olives. The recipe layout is simple, and easy enough to follow, with one recipe per page or so. The list of ingredients are set off and screened. No desserts are covered. Kochilas has produced mainly a Greek cookbook, although the packaging emphasizes the term “Mediterranean”. So don’t go looking for small plates of food from other areas of the Rim. She has a few pages on Greek wines and spirits (mainly ouzo). What I don’t like about this book: sources listed are all US, all Greek food, and only US measurements are used (there is not even a metric conversion chart) What I do like about this book: the meze pose: she tells how to sit while eating. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 10. THE COMPLETE WINE CELLAR SYSTEM (Running Press, 2003, ISBN 0-7624- 1557-6, $61.95) contains a 96-page paperback book written by Howard G. Goldberg, a wine writer for the New York Times (since 1984) and New York correspondent for decanter.com. It also contains a CD-ROM software package for wine inventories and printing reports. The last third of the kit is a substantial cloth clad binder with vellum paper on which to print a restaurant-quality wine list. The publisher’s intent is to help the reader to organize his wine collection and create a restaurant-style wine list. First the book: Goldberg writes about building and using a wine cellar, giving names and addresses (and websites) of contractors and suppliers. He comments on ideal storage conditions, how to develop a cellar (moving from one bottle to one case of each wine), choosing appropriate storage apparatus, the principles of organization (e.g., grape, region, producer, vintage, etc. – also needed for a proper software program), where to buy wine, and the different concepts of a wine library (current drinking) and a wine cellar (laying down or resale or investment). Secondly, the software: it is for the PC or Mac, made from Filemaker 6.0, so it is easy to use. There are multiple pull-down menus. Categories of wine include red, white, rose, and sparkling, but there are none for fortified, fruit, or miscellaneous wines. Nobody really buys and stores roses, so THAT category can always be co-opted. The program is useful for a modest- sized restaurant. It has fields for producer/estate, vintage, wine name, country of origin, grape variety, number of bottles purchased, price, date purchased, bottle size, where stored, drinkable age, rating, cellar value. There are many help screens and one can print out a handy Usage Guide. It is easy to sort and to print out. The binder, where the printout goes, is letter sized, on its side, with good parchment paper. What I don’t like about this book: there is no index to the book, but the chapters are fairly short. Also, in the software, it is very unclear why there are two ratings (one secret) in the database. What I do like about this book: Filemaker 6.0 is as easy to use as falling off a log…Goldberg has many anecdotes about collectors he has known. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 11. FRENCH CHEESES (Dorling Kindersley, 2000, 240 pages, ISBN 0-7894- 1070-2, $30 paper covers) is by Kazuko Masui and Tomoko Yamada, two Japanese food writers who adore French cheese. There are wine recommendations by Robert and Isabelle Vifian, Parisian restaurant operators. The book was first published in 1993, as a Japanese edition. It is alphabetically arranged by the best known name of the cheese. Each entry has a photo of the finished cheese, a small map to locate the region, symbols to indicate the fat content, the weight, and the season. As well, there is a line drawing of a cow, goat, or sheep to indicate provenance. The entries are all annotated to highlight distinguishing features, textures and colour of the cheeses. Suggested wines (also beer and cider) to accompany the cheeses come with stylistic notes. In all, there are about 700 colour photos. To take Cantal as an example: there are pictures of the wedge and the rind and the ball, it weighs 77 – 99 pounds (all measurements in the book are in US terms, so this is really the “normal” 35 to 45 Kg as legislated), it is available all year, it’s from the Auvergne and Midi, it uses aluminum ID tags, how it is made, including the affinage (storage), there are four pictures showing production, and the suggested accompanying wine is Moulin a Vent. Minisections deal with general cheesemaking, how to buy and store cheese at home, serving cheese, the seasons for cheeses, how goat cheese is made, and “making cheese in the mountains. There is also a glossary and a bibliography. What I don’t like about this book: there is a list of producers, and markets at the back of the book, but they are all in France. We need something for North America. Of course, there is no discussion of cheese quotas for this part of the world. What I do like about this book: at the very end, there are some short huffy notes about processed cheese. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 12. FROMMER’S TORONTO 2004, with Niagara Falls & the Wine Region (Wiley Publishing, 2004, 273 pages, ISBN 0-7645-4060-2, ISSN 1047-7853, $22.99 paper covers) is by Hilary Davidson, a Toronto native living in New York City. She writes for Chatelaine, Executive Traveler, Discover, Frommer’s Canada, and other travel publications. This entry, like all the other Frommer guides, is setup by formula, with upfront material about what’s new in Toronto, planning your trip, getting to know Toronto, where to stay, where to dine, what to see and do, city strolls, shopping, Toronto after dark, Toronto “in depth” (which is basically historical material), and indexes to accommodations and restaurants, as well as a general index. There are side trips such as Stratford, Niagara wine region (including Shaw, and how to tour the wineries), Muskoka, and Hamilton. I guess the only thing missing are the Kawartha Lakes area and Prince Edward County – but maybe that will come next year. Most of the reviews of the restaurants are spot on. There is a generous assortment of maps. A companion book for Central Canada includes FROMMER’S MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY 2004 (Wiley Publishing, 2004, 299 pages, ISBN 0-7645-4124-2, $24.99) which is setup in the same manner. Side trips here include Ste-Anne-de-Beaupre, the Charlevoix Region. Can Ottawa be far behind? What I don’t like about this book: updating is always a bitch. So while Pusateri’s new location in Yorkville (fall, 2003) made it, the closing of Patriot (June 2003) didn’t. And Juice for Life has changed its name. What I do like about this book: assessments are generally accurate. I appreciated the strolls sections in both guides. Quality/Price Ratio: guidebooks are usually purchased on a need-to-know basis, so they would rate high. Give it a 90. 13. THE MENU TORONTO; the best restaurants and a sample their menus (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 376 pages, ISBN 1-58008-278-5, $24.95 paper covers) is by Jeremy Ferguson, a well-known Toronto food and travel writer. Here are about 175 restaurants, with many ethnic eateries being covered. The format: the verso page has the restaurant description while the recto page has the menu sample, with prices (except for a couple of pigheaded dining spots who refused prices). Most descriptions are about 125 words in length, and give a feel for the place. The rest of the page has data on name, address, website, phone number, charge cards, general hours, license or not, smoking or not, reservations, dress, and how often the menu changes. Some of the restaurants need proofreaders, but that’s not Ferguson’s fault. Ten Speed Press also has another such book, published at the same time, in THE MENU NEW YORK CITY but I have not seen it. What I don’t like about this book: there seems to be an expectation of something more, given the book’s size and the paucity of the description. The idea of menus is good, but it also smacks of promotion. Yet the book sells for $24.95 plus tax, printed on mass paperback stock. What I do like about this book: there’s an index by cuisine, another by neighbourhood. Quality/Price Ratio: 84. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR JANUARY 2004 =============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor 1. CELLARING WINE; managing your wine collection…to perfection (Storey Publishing, 2003; distr. by T. Allen, 259 pages, ISBN 1-58017-474-4, $29.95 paper) is by Jeff Cox, a long time wine writer, currently a contributing editor to The Wine News. He has also written “From Vines to Wines”, a book about growing vines and making wines. This current book has two major sections: one, how to collect and acquire wine (10 pages) and two, building and using a wine cellar (110 pages). He delves into the collecting mentality and mania, giving guidelines for wine collecting – which involves learning and sharing knowledge (the more you study wine, the more information you gain, the more you understand wine, the more refined your tastes become, the more passionate about wine you become). We’ve all seen it happen to people; the trick is to contain it. Cox has material on pricing for rarity, birth-year wines, gifting, the futures markets, wine as investment, how to visit wineries and what to look/ask for, cult wines, wine software for inventory and note keeping, how wine ages and what wines age best. The second section shows several plans for making a wine cellar, ranging from cardboard boxes to hiring a contractor to dig out a cantina affair. He has copious notes on organizing a cellar by function or purpose: aging, drinking, wine library, investment. And he gives examples of good and bad wine writer tasting notes. There’s an index, a glossary, and a resource list to wine events, mail order catalogues, US retail shops, vintage charts, wine storage cabinets, cooling systems, racking systems, customized wine cellars. Indeed, his book discusses just about every wine accessory out there in the marketplace. What I don’t like about this book: some parts of the resources list are out-of-date already. Three URLs of wine software sites have changed. Also, the funny drawings (these are not cartoons with captions) detract from the written material, and just take up space. What I do like about this book: a really original book, not about the wines themselves, but about collecting, buying, and appreciating them. It does a good job in addressing the collecting issue. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 2. VERY CRANBERRY (Celestial Arts, 2003; distr. by Ten Speed Canada, 88 pages, ISBN 1-58761-180-5, $8.95 paper covers) is by Jennifer Trainer Thompson, who is a James Beard nominee and author of seven other cookbooks. Here are 40 straightforward recipes, using fresh and dried cranberries in salads (poached pear), starters (crab cakes), sides (spaghetti squash, couscous), entrees (scallops, lamb shanks), relishes, sauces, jams, etc, for eating at home or as gifts, plus a few breads and muffins. Desserts are in one of the largest sections, with eight recipes for biscotti, tart, pie, turnover, crumble, cake. There are also some useful condiment preps, such as cranberry vinegar and cranberry-onion confit. We used a recipe to make her cranberry-nut bread as a Christmas gift for neighbours; it was terrific. What I don’t like about this book: despite its brevity, there is no index. American measurements only were noted. What I do like about this book: useful though brief introduction to a single product. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 3. THE MARTINI; a collection (Cat Sass Media Design, 2003; distr. by Whitecap, 217 pages, ISBN 0-9689872-1-4, $19.95 paper covers) is by Liza Schafhauser, who presents three basic options with martinis: either they are stirred or they are shaken; either they are made with vodka or with gin; and either they are dry or they are flavoured. This, then, is a hefty compendium of about 700 recipes, beginning with the classics (76 recipes for gin or vodka) which include Gibson, gimlet, gin and it, and the fino martini). The rest of the book has new stuff. The trendy martinis section alone is the largest group, some 50-plus pages with over 250 recipes. She also has a range of non-alcoholic “mocktinis”. Many of the recipes here have other alcoholic beverages added for the sake of complexity; these include liqueurs, scotch, brandy, and flavoured vodkas. The recipes are barebones, with a list of ingredients and simple instructions. The martini glass is the usual choice of stemware. There are two indexes: one is to the names of the martinis, indexed alphabetically, while the other is to the ingredients used. What I don’t like about this book: there are no explanations for the names of drinks. Why is the “journalist martini” so named? Or “Bermuda triangle”? Also, WHO is Liz Schafhauser???? What I do like about this book: straightforward compendium, extremely useful for bartenders and martini lovers. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 4. THE SECRETS OF BAKING; simple techniques for sophisticated desserts (Houghton Mifflin, 2003; distr. by T.Allen, 395 pages, ISBN 0-618- 13892-7, $55) is by Sherry Yard, executive pastry chef at Wolfgang Puck’s Spago in Hollywood. She has created desserts for all of the big- time award shows (Grammy, Emmy, and Academy) which originate in Hollywood. She gives one technique recipe, with variations on that theme. For example, she has “ganache” (chocolate and cream) which can produce truffles, fondue, mousse, hazelnut-chocolate candies, tart, and a frozen dessert tower. Her “cream puff dough” goes to make éclairs, cannoli, and beignets. Her other master recipes are four brioche, pie dough, pound cake, caramel, curd, vanilla sauce, cookie. This is all basic bakery school stuff I learned thirty years ago: mast one technique and the variations fall into place. Still, it is good for the beginning/junior baker to know these techniques. Master the rules first, then break them or add on to them. In the final chapter, she combines the master recipes to make such delectable items as crème brulee apricot tart with lavender vanilla sauce, or toasted lemon pound cake with grapefruit-vanilla curd, or chocolate financier with raspberry ganache (ooo-wee)…She has charts to show the relationship amongst the various recipes, allowing you to improvise even more. At the back, there are baking terms, glossary, tools and ingredients to have on hand. Unfortunately, she has no accompanying wine descriptions which could have enhanced the book. What I don’t like about this book: only US measurements are used, and just about everything here is by volume and not scaled. What I do like about this book: this is a good book with which to establish your confidence with desserts, and there are lots of yummy colour photos. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 5. THE BREAD BIBLE (W.W. Norton, 2003; distr. by Penguin, 640 pages, ISBN 0-393-05794-1, $52.50) is by Rose Levy Beranbaum, a multiple-award winning baker who has also authored other “bibles”, including The Cake Bible and The Pie and Pastry Bible. Her cake book has sold fantastically well, and is now in its 30th printing. You know where you are when you read that the book is dedicated to the memory of Lionel Poilane. She neatly summarizes bread making in “Ten Essential Steps”, and then expands on them (fermenting, mixing, kneading, proofing, turning, dividing, scoring, slicing, et al). The 150 recipes deal with yeast starters, quick breads, flat breads, brioche, and also with ciabatta, semolina, rye, sourdoughs, bagels, crumpets, pizza dough, muffins, popovers, pretzels. One of her best recipes here is the prosciutto ring. Her advice, based on extensive research, is sound: use a light bulb to assist a rising (pilot light is too hot), old flour gives a poor crumb, ice cubes in the oven makes a better steam bath than boiling water (and you don’t injure yourself). I like her layout in the recipes, beginning with the time sked, equipment list, ingredients, a detailed description, and the procedures (here, she gives details on equivalent hand methods, machine methods and bread maker methods). Through it all, I get the sense that she really cares about the importance of technique, ingredient, and equipment. There are plenty of tips scattered about the book, brought together by the index. All her recipes have three sets of measurements: US volume, US ounces, and metric grams. There are 32 pages of full-colour photos, as well as several hundred excellent line drawings to illustrate procedures. A bibliography and glossary concludes the work. What I don’t like about this book: US resources (names, addresses, websites) only. Also, she does not explain the use of volume vs. weight in measurements, except -- in passing -- under her biscuit recipe. What I do like about this book: professionals would appreciate the book, particularly because of the technical details and her knowledge of chemistry. The index is thorough, and excellent. Quality/Price Ratio: 94. 6. THE COMPLETE BARTENDER’S GUIDE (Firefly Books, 2003, 399 pages, ISBN 1- 55297-643-2, $19.95 flexi covers) is ostensibly by Jordan Spence, an Australian lifestyle writer, although others contributed to the project for the recipes and the directory of bars. This is an alphabetically arranged listing of some 750 cocktail recipes (all within the parameters of type of alcoholic beverage such as vodka, gin, brandy, rum, whiskey, tequila). Other material includes an equipment list (glasses, shakers, etc.), a description of the main spirits, and a glossary. Scattered throughout are tips, advice and tricks of the trade. The separate section on classic cocktails has a description of the bloody mary, daiquiri, manhattan, margarita and eleven others. Each is given two pages, one for the recipe and the photo, the other for an anecdotal history. Then there is the directory of cocktail bars, noted as “top”. About 400 are described, many in just a few words, for the major cities of the world. An exception to the brief description is the annotation for the Long Bar at Raffles (Singapore). For Toronto, there is an indication of drinking at the Rosewater Supper Club and at Rain. There are bars listed for Montreal and Vancouver. A serviceable book. What I don’t like about this book: the print is very tiny for the recipes, hard to see in a darkened room, not terribly handy if you keep it under the bar. What I do like about this book: it has a good stiff but flexible binding, easy to use, and there are both US and metric measurements in the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 7. COOKING 1-2-3; 500 fabulous three-ingredient recipes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 336 pages, ISBN 1-58479-286- 8, $60) is by Rozanne Gold, a multiple James Beard Award winner and a IACP Cookbook Award winner. This book contains what she considers her best recipes from her “1-2-3” series. The series started with “Recipes 1-2-3”, and continued with books devoted to “Healthy”, “Desserts”, and “Christmas”…Here, she has 350 revised and updated recipes from her previous books, plus 150 brand new recipes, for a whopping total of 500. Each uses only three ingredients, not counting salt, pepper or water (although she does use the occasional condiments which have been pre-made at home with only three ingredients). These are all concise, easy-to-follow recipes, organized by category (vegetables with 23 preps, 15 different kinds of fish, five kinds of poultry, six grains including polenta and barley, pasta, meat, soups, bread (and yeast-free bread), eggs, cheese). There are many variations, internal indexes, and plenty of cross-references. She has notes on how to entertain simply but stylishly (drinks, finger foods, and party foods) through 31 menus for different occasions. Her chosen techniques emphasize slow cooking, steaming and roasting/baking. While her recommended wines cover only one page, all are food wines from different countries (Alsatian Riesling, Minervois, and Nero D’avola from Sicily). What I don’t like about this book: unfortunately, to do this right, you need a huge pantry-larder for oils, spices, sauces and sugars. A restaurant could cope, but a home cook may need extra room. Also, only US measurements are used, not metric. What I do like about this book: page references are given in all of the menus. Good heavy stock paper is used. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 8. EAST OF PARIS; the new cuisines of Austria and the Danube (ECCO, 2003; distr. by HarperCollins, 346 pages, ISBN 0-06-621449-1, $49.95) is by David Bouley, Tribeca chef-owner of Bouley and Danube, with assistance from Mario Lohninger (executive chef of Danube) and Melissa Clark (freelance food writer and author of sixteen cookbooks). It has been awhile since I last saw a Middle European cookbook. This book is much like Samuellson’s Scandinavian cuisine’s AQUAVIT reviewed last month, in that it attempts to lighten up a heavy cuisine. This area is the crossroad of Europe: Hungarian paprika, Turkish coffee, dumplings and sauerkraut, pastries and fish cookery. Bouley’s book, another chef- restaurant cookbook, is arranged by season, beginning with the Fall. Along the way there are assorted comments by either Bouley or Lohninger. Each season has many traditional dishes, usually lightened, with explicit instructions in the recipes. So then, here are the classics of liptauer, stuffed peppers, rosti potatoes, krautwickler, suckling pig, strudel, plum pancakes, beef cheek goulash, wiener schnitzel, sachertorte, and palatschinken amongst others. His new style dishes include a scrumptious oxtail strudel canapé, potato salad with fresh black truffles, quark spatzle. His resto’s signature dishes include oysters with beet sorbet, Tyrolean wine soup, and almond- crusted halibut. The book has many pictures of the restaurant and its staff, plus a US source list. What I don’t like about this book: only US measurements are given – there is not even a table of equivalents! A major disappointment is the lack of space devoted to Austrian wines. This book would have been the perfect opportunity to promote them. There is only one page of notes for Austrian wines, none for other Danube areas, and NO wine recommendations at all for the recipes. What I do like about this book: the ingredients listed in the recipes are in upper case, a boon to tired eyes. Gorgeous photos, too. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 9. THE DUCK COOKBOOK (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2003; distr. Canada Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 1-58479-295-7, $48) is by James Peterson, formerly a renowned chef and now a renowned cookbook author – he wrote last year’s “Sweet Wines” and “Glorious French Food”. This current book is virtually a complete guide. He explains the different varieties that we are likely to encounter in North America (actually, just two: Pekin and Muscovy) plus stuff about other ducks such as Barbary, Rouen, Nantes, and others. Pekin or Long Island duckling has more fat, cooks slower, and doesn’t dry out as quickly as the Muscovy. Once you know the breed, then you need to adjust cooking techniques. French and European ducks are more like Muscovy, so they tend to dry out quickly and cook faster. European cookbooks reflect this. There are also different cooking methods, all described, for each part of the duck, and one breed is to be preferred over another when it comes to legs or breasts. “The secret to cooking a duck is to cook each of its parts in a different way” (p.2). Most of the recipes in his book are for Pekin duck. There are specific techniques and dishes for soups, salads, and confits. Peterson also gives extremely detailed instructions for cutting up a duck. His 65 recipes include whole roasted duck, breasts with sauces (plenty of recipes here), terrines-pates-mousse, braised legs with red cabbage and juniper berries, and even a trendy “confit spring roll” and a “duck bouillabaisse”. The book is arranged by technique: sautéing, braising, roasting, confit, smoking, curing, soups, salads, terrines. There is even a small paragraph on uses for duck fat (make omelets). What I don’t like about this book: only US measurements with a conversion chart, only US sources cited. What I do like about this book: a single-product cookbook, which makes it unique. The index includes themes, e.g., Asian-style dishes, main courses, sauté, sausages. He has good illustrations with step-by-step photos and the final plating. Quality/Price Ratio: 91. 10. ANNE DESJARDINS COOKS AT L’EAU A LA BOUCHE; the seasonal cuisine of Quebec (Douglas & McIntyre, 2003, 192 pages, ISBN 1-55365-020-4, $40 stiff paper covers) is by the chef-owner of a small restaurant in the Laurentians (Ste.Adele), and who is acknowledged as one of Canada’s finest chefs (she has a huge resume of honours and awards). She has been at the helm for two decades. The arrangement of her resto recipes is by season, beginning with Spring. Her sixty recipes include duck liver with fiddleheads salad, asparagus with pansies, and scallop tartare with trout caviar, rabbit with eggplant, Jerusalem artichoke (now called sunchoke”) soup, and skate, salmon. She has sidebars on local gardeners, farmers, bakers, and fromagiers. There are usually three pages for each recipe, including colour photo. On checking the index, I find not a single chicken recipe! There is one grouse, one guinea hen, one duck, and plenty of duck foie gras. What I don’t like about this book: the opening section on “basics” includes a recipe for veal sweetbreads! I love these, but I would hardly call them basic… What I do like about this book: this is a chef’s cookbook, with a history of the restaurant. The oversized photos are good idea too. And because this is a Canadian book, there are both Imperial and Metric measurements. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 11. I AM ALMOST ALWAYS HUNGRY; seasonal menus and memorable recipes (Stewart, Chang & Tabori, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 200 pages, ISB 1-58479-287-6, $48) is by Lora Zarubin, a former caterer, restaurateur in Greenwich Village, and now food editor of House & Garden. It certainly wins the prize for the most distinctive cookbook title of 2003. She has 30 seasonal menus (why do cookbook writers ALWAYS have 30 menus, not 25, not 35, but 30 or so???). These 100 recipes include such tasty items as fennel and parmesan salad, or creamy grits with pureed celery root, garganelli egg pasta with lemon and basil, pannacotta with blueberry sauce, pulled pork BBQ, something for every type of occasion. The book is arranged by season and menu, from Spring, mostly four courses each, and all indexed alphabetically by both ingredient and name of the product. Her topics include a lunch with the Humbrechts (vintners) in Alsace, a Russian Easter, a working gardeners lunch, a bonfire on the beach, a birthday dinner, Thanksgiving, a grilled menu, and New Year’s Day. What I don’t like about this book: light brown typeface makes it hard to read and follow instructions, US measurements only (but with a metric conversion chart). What I do like about this book: sharp photography, particularly the smoked ham in the suitcase. There is an international sources list with web URLs. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 12. AMERICAN PIE; my search for the perfect pizza (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 264 pages, ISBN 1-58008-422-2, $39.95) is by Peter Reinhart, a co- founder of Brother Juniper’s Bakery in Sonoma and author of many bread books, including “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”, which was named cookbook of the year by BOTH James Beard Foundation and the IACP. Here he tries to find the best pizzeria and best pizza recipe, limiting himself to Italy and the USA. He relies on others to suggest hot spots for pizzas, such as Jeff Steingarten, John Ash, and Rick Bayless. His style is anecdotal and serendipitous. The first section concerns his search, looking for Chicago and New York style, Neapolitan and Sicilian style. Over in Italy he deals with focaccia in Genoa, pizza Margherita in Naples, pizza bianca in Rome, and pizza marinara in Naples. In the US he begins with Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, where the owner makes his own mozzarella and grows his own basil. Everyday there is a lineup when he opens at 5 PM. Yum. He moves on to Dallas, New Haven, Providence, Chicago, Bellevue Washington State. The first 85 pages are the hunt. The rest of the book concerns the 40 classic recipes plus 20 others (doughs, sauces, toppings) – in extreme detail. He goes into types of ovens and how to use them; the mise en place (tools and ingredients), the types of doughs-sauces-toppings; the need for herb oils, purees and cheeses (what types, kinds, and when to use); the shaping and the baking of the pizzas. He lists web resources, such as www.pizzathereapy.com and www.chowhound.com as sources for tracking down even more pizzerias and pizza recipes. What I don’t like about this book: I am not sure why he has a section on Macedonian pita, a relative of the Ligurian focaccia col formaggio. It is the only non-Italian item in the book. On the other side of Liguria is the pissaladiere of Nice, an area that was Italian until 1851, and is actually better than many pizzas! Also, he has no wine recommendations. This would have been a fine addition to the book. What I do like about this book: its deckle-edge!! And the fact that it is a single product book. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 13. NORTH ATLANTIC SEAFOOD; a comprehensive guide with recipes. Third edition. (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 512 pages, ISBN 1-58008-450-8, $39.95 stiff paper covers) is by the late, great food and fish writer, Alan Davidson (main author of the Oxford Companion to Food). It was originally published in 1979, and was last revised in 1988. Here, there are some minor corrections, an updated bibliography, some newer line drawings, and a revised index. This is a comprehensive survey of edible seafood between European and North American shores, with notes on culture and science. Oh yes, of course, don’t forget the recipes, in their own section, divided by country (e.g., Portugal, Spain, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Scandinavian countries, Canada, US) with a description of each country’s sea life cookery. Canada has cod sound pies and fish loaf (both Newfoundland), eel in white wine (Quebec), some Micmac recipes, rappie pie, scallops, scallops, salmon steaks with fiddleheads, plus lots of chowders. The catalogue section has a line drawing for each fish, which is centred by family groups with scientific names, common names (in many different languages), and extensive cuisine notes on each fish. Just check out the lengthy narrative under “sardine”. Thus, the reader will find Davidson’s cogent thoughts on the herring family, salmons, cods, eels, basses, bluefishes, porgies, mullets, tunas, as well as crustaceans and mollusks (lobster, shrimp, crab, oyster, mussel). What I don’t like about this book: not much, but I do wish the book was in hardback for its reference value and usage, to withstand the wear and tear. It may be some time before it is further revised… What I do like about this book: there are separate indexes for the seafood names and the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 98. 14. NEW YORK COOKS; the 100 best recipes from New York magazine (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 191 pages, ISBN 1-58479-314-7, $43.95) has been assembled by Gillian Duffy, culinary editor of New York magazine. Every year the magazine publishes two guides to entertaining, one for summer and one for holidays. This book is a collection sourced from New York chefs and tested for home use, culled from the 1000 or so which have been published since 1988. Chefs include recognizable names such as David Bouley, Bobby Flay, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Lidia Bastianich, Daniel Boulud, Rocco DiSpirito, and Pino Luongo. The preps are new and traditional, everyday and festive, one recipe per page sourced to chef. The book is arranged by course, starters to desserts, with Senegalese peanut soup (one of my all-time favourites), spaghetti baked in a pouch with seafood, the original “brined herb-roasted turkey”, and a grill- roasted porchetta. There is a separate index to the chefs and to their restaurants. What I don’t like about this book: it is indexed okay, but the typeface is too light and small for me and my kitchen. What I do like about this book: there is a good history of change and development in NYC dining experiences in the Introduction. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 15. AMERICA’S BEST CHEFS COOK WITH JEREMIAH TOWER (John Wiley, 2003, 218 pages, ISBN 0-471-45141-X, $45.95) is the print companion to the PBS television 26-part series of the same name. Tower deals with 14 James Bear Award winners, all chosen by the board of the James Beard Foundation to be part of this series. Most of the winners are regional award winners. But the big names are Alain Ducasse and Charlie Trotter. Each chef comes with a rap sheet and an awards list, plus a picture, sprawled over two pages. The book has 100 recipes, from all of the chefs and from Tower who wrote up the recipes for the basics. Each chef expounds on his philosophy of food service. Thus, there is Nancy Silverton (LaBrea Bakery) who contributed Meyer lemon curd and Meyer lemon sorbet plus shortbread buttons, and Michael Romano (Union Square Café) who contributed chicken saltimbocca, chocolate pudding flan, a cod dish, spaghetti with oven-roasted tomatoes, sautéed spinach. The book is arranged not by chef but by course (starters to desserts). And you don’t need to see the PBS series since Tower provides a written account of his movements. What I don’t like about this book: it is restricted, unfortunately, to the television series. What I do like about this book: a good snapshot of American food and chefs, with great layout and design. Quality/Price Ratio: unrated. 16. LUMIERE LIGHT; recipes from the tasting bar (Douglas & McIntyre, 2003, 136 pages, ISBN 1-55054-973-1, $22.95 paper covers) is by Rob Feenie, owner-chef, and Marnie Coldham, sous-chef, of Lumiere restaurant in Vancouver. They also hosts of a cooking show on the Food Network in Canada. Add the pastry chef and the bartenders and you’ll have five contributors to this book. The “Lumiere Tasting Bar” grew out of the need to provide smaller, lighter dishes to those who just wanted a quick or inexpensive meal. It is a casual place, with tapas-sized portions and cocktails. The food has French-Asiatic influences. The 90 recipes here cover all courses and both food and drink, about one recipe per page. Typical preps include a “cottage pie” of duck confit and carmelized onions (he calls it shepherd’s pie, but that only applies to lamb), a risotto of carmelized endive, blue cheese and walnuts, and basic family style food (beef dip sandwich, squash in mascarpone ravioli). Also, perhaps a deep fried brandade, a duck leg salad, a calamari sandwich, and my favourite: a shiitake mushroom cappuccino (no coffee; just the style). Here are some good ideas for light and small plates at informal restos. Lots of variations are possible. They are easy to do at home, but you’ll need a large larder. What I don’t like about this book: too much space was wasted on the cocktails (two pages for each, while most recipes are just on one page) with a lot of white space and blurry photos of the drinks: if this is how I get to view them, then I’d better not drive home! Also, despite its Canadian origins, there are US measurements only (the book is going to be sold in the US in 2004). What I do like about this book: good notes on how to assemble each dish. There are good photos of the plated presentations. And the index is effective, e.g., under “carmelized” there are references to all four recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 17. THIRSTY TRAVELER—ROAD RECIPES; cooking with fine wines, beer and spirits (Whitecap Books, 2003, 160 pages, ISBN 1-55285-566-X, $29.95 paper covers) comes from the hugely successful (65 countries, five languages) Food Network show of the same name. The 100 or so recipes concentrate on flavours contributed by the addition of alcoholic beverages. The book is arranged by such beverage, with a half dozen or so preps for each, most recipes being local. Thus, there is whisky (Scotland), tequila (Mexico), white wine (Sonoma), red wine (Chile), gin (England), stout (Ireland), beer (Belgium), port, hard cider, icewine, etc. The recipes are interesting, work out well, but don’t really contribute anything new, being the grab bag that they are. Plenty of tidbits about individual drinks and countries. What I don’t like about this book: there are some typos, the index is arranged by course and not by ingredient, there are too many touristy pix and definitely too many full page photos of the author. What I do like about this book: one for the fans, and the use of both American and metric units of measurements. Quality/Price Ratio: 84 (unless you are a fan) WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR DECEMBER 2003 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor 1. LET’S TALK WINE! (XYZ Publishing, 2003, 191 pages, ISBN 1-894852-07-9, $19.95 paper covers) is by Marc Chapleau, a freelance wine writer in mainly the French language market in Canada. This book was published in 2002, and then translated (A Nous deux le vin!)…It is pretty basic, in a Q and A format, with 120 straight-forward questions. He makes no attempt to be funny or cute in his answers. Some questions are quite good, such as why do people smell their empty glasses? (to check on musty or cardboard smells, of course). The book is enhanced by ten tables which deal with winetasting skills, wine and food matching (including some “daring” ones), and the aging potential of certain wines. These are very good. I think that if I were going to write a book, I’d create a hook: all tables. I’d call it “Wine Under the Table; a tabular approach to enjoyment”. There, I’ve staked my claim…. What I don’t like about this book: well, there are setup anecdotes which take up too much room. The book could have had 150 Q & A. The resources list is a bit spotty, and while he divides the few websites into English and French language sites, I found a few that he had put down in the English column that were actually French. Also, some have changed their URLs. What I do like about this book: a VERY extensive index. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 2. LITTLE FOODS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN; 500 fabulous recipes for antipasti, tapas, hors d’oeuvre, meze, and more (Harvard Common Press, 2003; distr. by National Book Network, 515 pages, ISBN 1-55832-227-2, $32.95 paper covers) is by Clifford A. Wright, author of nine cook books, James Beard winner, magazine writer, and specialist in Mediterranean food. This has got to be one of the better value books of the year; check out the price for this tautly written, double column book. He delves into finger foods, amuse-bouches, canapés, sandwiches, street foods, snacks, and appetizers from right around the Rim. He gives a history of the various appetizers, distinguishing amongst hors d’oeuvre-antipasto-meze-tapa-zakuski, and dividing everything nicely into pre-meal dishes and small plates. The north side of the Med, in general, has small dishes for appetizers. The south side of the Med (Islamic) normally has a meal of small dishes (small plates, or food- in-itself). And this influence extends into the tapas of Spain. That being said, there are, of course, exceptions. Wright covers: provencale canapés, cheese crostini, dips and spreads, cheese, fried foods, wraps, kebabs, pickles and marinades, frittatas, stuffed vegetables, salads, pastries, turnovers, pizza, etc. They all use plenty of anchovies, shrimp, fish, beans, nuts, vegetables, and grains. I think I’ll skip the “croutes of calf’s brains” and something similar for lamb brains. That’s cutting it too close to BSE. He has a huge concluding section on the various sauces needed for many dishes. This is followed by 41 theme menus for parties and dinners. Along the way he has many sidebars of background information. What I don’t like about this book: he uses Imperial measurements only. What I do like about this book: it shows every evidence of being well- researched, with material culled from his extensive archives. For example, there is an extensive discourse on the differences between “crostini” and “bruschetta”. Pronunciation guides are given, where necessary. Quality/Price Ratio: 96. 3. THE SLOW MEDITERRANEAN KITCHEN; recipes for the passionate cook (J.Wiley, 2003, 350 pages, ISBN 0-471-266288-9, $53.95) is by Paula Wolfert, another well-known award-winning prolific cookbook author who specializes in food from the Mediterranean Rim. This is her sixth Mediterranean cookbook; the latest was “The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean”. The 150 recipes in this book come from around the rim, and there are some duplications with her other books. She repeats her No Stir Polenta (here, “Oven Baked Polenta”) which I have used with great success for years. But essentially, she emphasizes preparing food from scratch (I have a huge backroom full of scratch) by simmering, oven steaming, slow-roasting, braising, poaching, marinating. This allows complexity to develop, blend and harmonize. It is also cooking which is less stressful and more forgiving, with a larger margin of error, and there is a minimum amount of handwork. So then, here are preps for sauces, condiments, dips and spreads, every course with lots of soups and meat dishes (especially lamb). Some recipes need to be started two to five days ahead, and most recipes are pretty simple and easy to execute. But you do need to read the recipe first. Her cassoulet recipe is four pages long; the braised oxtail recipe is three pages long. She gives exceptional background notes for each, such as the North African tagine, the French ragout, the Spanish estofado. As an experienced cookbook author, all of her recipes are clear and concise, although she uses only Imperial measurements. Typical preps include slow-baked lamb with fennel, pecorino and potatoes, baby okra tagine, baked eggplant slices marinated with verjus, four chilled gazpachos, and some recipes with Greek gigantes beans. And there are full colour photos of the finished stews, roasts, etc. with page references to the recipes. What I don’t like about this book: some recipes seem to be stretching the meaning of “slow” Also, she tries to tie in the book with the Slow Food Movement, but it is only partially related – the “slow” part. What I do like about this book: this is a great book for cooking on the weekend. There are mail/web order sources for ingredients. And the index is extensive. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 4. THE DA FIORE COOKBOOK; recipes from Venice’s best restaurant (William Morrow, 2003, 252 pages, ISBN 0-06-009071-5, $53.95) is by Damiano Martin, director of Osteria da Fiore (called the best resto in Venice by the Wine Spectator), with writing honed by Dana Bowen and Mara Martin’s recipes tested by Laura Pensiero. This restaurant cookbook deals with mainly upscale food, not with family dishes. All of it is seasonal and local and fresh. When the lagoon closes for Fermo Pesca (restocking the fish), the restaurant does too. The cuisine of the area emphasizes lots of spices, seafood, polenta, rice, butter, beef and vegetables. Polenta is both the coarse-ground yellow (as commonly found in North America) and fine white (made from the kernel), and is used for different dishes. The white goes better with seafood. Both Veneto books (this one, and the book below) advocate stirring constantly for 40 minutes. This is NOT going to be a favourite dish at home. Martin writes “After stirring for a full forty minutes, she [i.e. Mara, the owner-chef] pours the polenta porridge into…”At her age, and with a lot of diners, I think not. The recipes are all seafood and vegetables, with lots of sardines and squid plus a few desserts such as a fruit- filled polenta cake and zaleti (cornmeal cookies). There is a good way to cook baked rice, made with fish broth. Both metric and imperial measurements are used. The photography of the presentations and food styling are excellent. Check out the website www.dafiore.com and their cooking school www.dafiorecooking.com. What I don’t like about this book: not enough discussion about local wines, just a few paragraphs. No wine recommendations for each recipe. What I do like about this book: the index is by Italian name, English name, and ingredient, and it comes with colour photos. Quite possibly, this is the first time I’ve seen an illustrated index! Martin also suggests North American substitutes for Venetian ingredients in all of the recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 5. VENETO; authentic recipes from Venice and the Italian northwest (Chronicle Books; distr. by Raincoast Books, 2003, 162 pages, ISBN 0- 8118-2350-4, $29.95 paper covers) is by Julia Della Croce, an award- winning cookbook author and cookery school teacher. The book covers more of the region than da Fiore’s (above), more on Northern Italy (from the Adriatic to the Dolomites with olives and wines from Lake Garda), and more on family style, with polenta, beans, rice, asparagus, pumpkin, radicchio, potatoes, mountain game, and artichokes. She begins with a short history of the region and the spice trade, noting that about 2000 food and cookbooks have been written in the region since the invention of moveable type. There is a section on wines (too short) and cheeses (asiago, grana padano, montasio, provolone, taleggio) and prosciutto. The range of preps include sauces, appetizers, finger foods (cicheti), pasta-rice-polenta, fish and meat, veggie sides, desserts (puddings, cookies), each preceded by background notes. Typical dishes include a savoury pumpkin pie appetizer, red bean and barley soup, pasta e fasioi, spaghetti al radicchio (and risotto al radicchio), risi e bisi, risotto with pumpkin and walnut, fasioi in potacin (beans with pancetta and polenta). There seems to be some confusion on the local dialect word for beans: is it “fasoi” or “fasioi”? Both words appear several times, as spelled. Della Croce has a resource list on where to stay and where to eat in the region, but doesn’t mention da Fiore at all. What I don’t like about this book: she has only the barest of mentions of wines, with no wine suggestions in the recipes. Only imperial measurements are given, but there is a table of equivalents. Despite the massive use of polenta in the region, she only has four recipes. What I do like about this book: there are sidebars of interesting, food-related quotations, all sourced. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 6. 100 GREAT RISOTTOS (Cassell Illustrated; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 2003, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84403-130-6, $27.95 paper covers) is by Valentina Harris, a well-known UK cookbook author, award winner, TV chef, and cooking school proprietor. Her emphasis is on the creamy style, with both classic and trendy rice dishes for family, entertaining (edible flowers, lobster and duck), and summer (grilled veggies, nettles and arugula). She neatly divides the Italian larder into three major categories: one, cheeses, herbs and spices; two, vegetables and mushrooms; and three, fish and meat. Preps include scallops, crab, mussels, squid, roasted peppers, spinach and walnuts, chicken livers, zucchini and their blossoms. There is even a sort of dessert, with a strawberry risotto. Other material includes a brief discussion on cookware, types of rice, and stocks-sauces-condimenti. What I don’t like about this book: pretty straightforward single course book, hard to find fault. What I do like about this book: both imperial and metric measurements are listed, and she gives ideas for use of leftover risotto (e.g. arancini di riso). Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 7. HUGH JOHNSON’S WINE COMPANION; the encyclopedia of wines, vineyards, & winemakers. Fifth edition. (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 592 pages, ISBN 1-84000-704-4, $50) has been fully revised and updated by Stephen Brook, another award-winning UK wine writer. The first edition was in 1983, and the last revision was in 1997. Brook is co- author for the first time, and presumably will take it over at some point. But I’m not sure the book needs to continue. There are so many changes each year that it is difficult for anyone to keep up, and it is certainly next to impossible to keep a book such as this one up-to- date, given its revision history. It needs to come out every two years, as a minimum. Witness these changes: new wine laws, new vintages, new techniques, new markets, new ownerships, new winemakers, and newly emerging regions. “Wine” is now a moving target, and it is best to keep abreast through the Internet. What we have here is a snapshot of 2002/3, already a bit out-of-date. Johnson has only the essentials for each wine country and region, with next to nothing on wine laws (a mistake), and bare bones names and descriptions of the wines. It merely extends the pocket guide, and perhaps for 2004 or 2005, one need not buy both that annual and this companion. It is arranged like the pocket guide (country first, winery next) with an alphabetical index. Canada gets pages 474 and 475. The rating scores for Ontario are okay, but the scores for BC wines are too low, particularly in view of the All Canada and Canadian Wine Awards winners of the past few years. There are good notes on the current critical audience for wines. More wine media reports mean more audience exposure to more wines and to more winemakers. Thus, more competition ensues. But there is no mention in this companion as to what the wine media are!! What I don’t like about this book: alas, there is no resource list: no mention of competing books, magazines or websites!! It also needs to be updated more frequently, but there are no notes from the publisher indicating that this will be the case. Indeed, there is no mention of the Internet as a source of news gathering. What I do like about this book: the Canadian price in numbers is the same as the US price!! And, the book is a needed bridge between Johnson’s annual guide and his wine atlas. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 8. UNDER THE TABLE; drinking games to liven up your parties (PRC Publishing, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1- 85648-659-1, $15.95 paper covers) is by Scott Tharler, a frat brother who went to Syracuse University. Despite the effects of drinking, players must meet the challenges of knowledge and verbal skills. Here are tongue-twisters, trivia, dice, coins, cards, and games based on TV shows and movies. He also gives advice and instructions on how to create your own rules and games. He has lots of variations, plus some tips on how to change rules in midstream, on the run. He has notes on supplies, number of players, strategies, combining games, winning the next drink, etc. Typical games include Spoons, Kings, Mexican, Thumper, Sweeper, Spinners, Bar Pong, and, of course, Quarters (clean or dirty). It is best to use beer at these games, so you can play before getting drunk. Some games are best suited to bars, others to frat houses, and some to private parties. What I don’t like about this book: it encourages drinking, especially the penalty garbage bowl. What I do like about this book: the appendix has pronunciations to international toasts, and there is an index to game names/titles. Quality/Price Ratio: unrated. 9. COOKING WITH VERJUICE (Penguin Books, 2003, 151 pages, ISBN 0-14- 300091-8, $18.50 paper covers) is by Maggie Beer, a food writer, a food shop owner, and a former restaurant owner – all in the Barossa Valley. It was first published in 2001, and has now been revised. “Verjus” means “green juice”, the juice of unripened grapes that is very tart and refreshing. The earliest mention seems to be Taillevent in 1375. Verjuice mostly relied on thinnings and secondary grapes high on the stalk. In Italy, it is known as “agresto”; in Spain it is “agraz”. Its use is mainly compared to lemon juice, adding a gently acidity and tartness to food. One producer of Dijon mustard uses verjus instead of vinegar. It is easy to make at home (blend grapes in food processor, strain, and use) but several producers bottle it commercially, including the author, and it is thus available around the world. Not as tart, but equally good, is reduced white wine made from leftover bottles, with the alcohol boiled off. In general, one can use verjuice to replace vinegar for a more rounded but still tartish finish. The 68 mostly upscale recipes here roam around sauces (hollandaise, walnut), grilled veggies, fish, poultry, meat (several rabbit but only one beef prep), and desserts (mostly fruit syrups and verjuice). There are lots of walnuts and almonds in the book. Her bibliography pulls together history and recipes from afar. What I don’t like about this book: her recipes mix metric and imperial measurements, a no-no!! (copy editor problem?) What I do like about this book: a unique ingredient book. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 10. MEET ME IN THE BAR; classic drinks from America’s historic hotels (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-58479-293-0, $29.95) is by Thomas Connors, a US food and drink writer, contributing to the Chicago Tribune and Bon Appetit, among others. This is a very good guide for the business traveler in the US, especially since most of these bars are expensive. They are “landmark watering holes”. Thirty-six bars are described, with colour and black and white photos. Here are Bemelmans (NYC), the Algonquin (NYC), Peabody (Memphis), Monteleone Hotel, Carousel Bar (New Orleans), Broadmoor (Colorado Springs), Clift (San Francisco), etc. He gives a history and some anecdotes supplied by bartenders and others. Part one is arranged by region. Photos show stuffed chairs, lots of wood, clean tables, hors d’oeuvre, pillows, crystal, stemware. They are all well- furnished, with great discreet bar service. In addition to the high comfort levels, there is also a nicer class of clientele and a feel for each city. Part two are the recipes, cross-referenced to the hotel. All the signature drinks are found here, with some fifty recipes in all (Boston Ritz Fizz, Carlyle’s Old Cuban). What I don’t like about this book: not all drinks are illustrated. Also, there is only ONE celebrity photo (Marlene Dietrich at the Beverly Hills Hotel: why bother with just one??) What I do like about this book: this is a great twist on the cocktail book. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 11. WINE; a basic course (Thunder Bay Press, 2003; distr. by Raincoast Books, 400 pages, ISBN 1-59223-128-4, $22.95) is by Tom Forrest, a long-time UK wine teachers and judge, and currently manager at Vinopolis, London’s wine-tasting visitor attraction. A basic course means a basic book: winemaking techniques, 36 varieties of grapes, wine styles, wine and food, new world vs. old world, vintages, and health concerns. In its regional approach, Canada gets one column plus three columns for a Henry of Pelham icewine harvest picture. The double- column book is well-illustrated with labels and photos, with something on every page. It is also physically readable with good leading. The resource section has a bibliography, list of magazines, and websites. BUT if I read one more writer who has “a mission to rescue some, if not all, of the mystique and pretense that surrounds wine” (p.8), I will burn his/her book!!! What I don’t like about this book: the vintage charts on screened brown pages make it difficult to photocopy, and hence steal. The book, nicely-priced, is still pretty basic. What I do like about this book: the glossary has pronunciations, and there is a section on wine-label composition. Quality/Price Ratio: 87. 12. LA MIA CUCINA TOSCANA; a Tuscan cooks in America (Broadway Books, 2003; distr. by Random House Canada, 270 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1194-6, $60) is by Pino Luongo, a Tuscan native who now owns restaurants in New York and Chicago, and has published three previous cookbooks, mostly dealing with Tuscany. The recipes are grouped by main ingredient rather than by course, and are based on what is served in his restaurant. There are chapters on bread, grains and legumes, mushrooms (lots of variety here), spring vegetables, autumn vegetables, fish, poultry (spicy Cornish hen), pork (prosciutto with roasted pears), beef-veal-lamb (vin santo pot roast), cheese (plates and presentation stressed), and dolci. Each chapter has a sub-arrangement by course. And each recipe has TWO heads: Il Classico (the classic Tuscan) and La Mia Versione (his upscale modern new world take on the same recipe). So there is ribollita (the thick Tuscan soup) which is used as a filling for ravioli and a two pasta lasagna. In his tomato and bread soup, polenta replaces the bread. Caponata has added shellfish. There are new variations on crostini, there is spelt gnocchi, pizza soufflé…Along the way there are tips and tricks as well as North American substitutions for some ingredients. His wine recommendations are mostly Italian, with a few Californian. This is a definite restaurant cookbook. What I don’t like about this book: it is a heavy, oversized book, difficult to deal with. Also, he has Chilean sea bass, which is a no-no for upscale, conscientious chefs in North America. Pino should have known better. What I do like about this book: great colour pix of plated dishes, such as the artichokes stuffed with peas. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 13. WILD SWEETS; exotic dessert & wine pairings (Douglas & McIntyre, 2003, 162 pages, ISBN 1-55054-987-1, $60) is by Dominique and Cindy Duby, currently partners in a wine and food pairing consultancy firm. But previously they were patissiers and chocolatiers who trained under Gaston Lenotre and led Pastry Team Canada several times in the various world cup competitions. The book emphasizes new approaches to eating “sweets”: essentially it is a meal long affair, beginning with apps and concluding with chocolates and cookies. The sweets are based on unconventional ingredients, such as salmonberries and wild honey, maybe even wild rice as exotic. Many of the 75 recipes are playful in tone. The Dubys present the nature of the sweet, from idea through to plated finale: how to make a sweet dish. They give tips on combining flavours and textures, as well as the necessary processes, especially vital for chocolate and ganache. They have informative sidebars for gelatinization, foaming, carmelization, selecting colours, selecting plates and serving dishes, presentation layout. Many of the canapés use wild foods, while the mains feature berries and fruits, grains and seeds. There are recipes for using icewine and using vegetables in desserts (e.g., poblano-cornmeal parfait with fireweed honey-roasted tomatoes and chili). Some savouries incorporated into sweet dishes include black truffles, olives, endive, mushroom, Savoy cabbage, fennel, curry, shisho. The Dubys’ art of presentation and plating emphasizes modern themes and minimalism. Still, assembly does take time. There is a separate section on the basics of fruit stock, oils, simple syrup, reductions, emulsions, sorbets, dressings, etc. Typical (if I may use that word in this context) dishes include maple and anise French toast with lavender custard, orange and basil soup with alpine strawberry compote and mascarpone mousse, date mousse pound cake with carmelized apricots and icewine foam, and a pear and icewine compote with smoked mango fillet and sweet pea shoot salad. What I don’t like about this book: bizarre, but unique… What I do like about this book: both imperial and metric measurements are given. The wine accompaniments are all for sweet wines, and they are usually quite detailed. Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 14. RAW (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 216 pages, ISBN 1-58008-470-2, $50) is by Charlie Trotter, well-known US chef and cookbook author, and by Roxanne Klein, chef-owner of Roxanne’s in Larkspur, California (and the leading proponent of the hottest new trend in food today, “raw food”). The food at Roxanne’s is raw, and it is mnemonic indeed…The physical layout of the book is the standard format for Trotter’s previous books at Ten Speed: gorgeous close-up photos of plated dishes on the right hand page, a detailed recipe on the left page, and all his books are oversized. Raw foods are prepared by juicing, dehydrating (not more than 105 degrees F), and blending. The book has all courses, from apps to desserts. Typical veggies (under A in the index) include artichokes, arugula, and asparagus, avocado. Fruits run to apples, bananas, cherries, cranberries, figs, etc. Most food seems to be in layers, emphasizing complexity of taste. The philosophy of eating raw foods is well-expressed here: there is the health aspect of enzyme preservation, and as catalysts for every metabolic reaction in one’s body. Cooking destroys these enzymes and the body must generate “generic” enzymes to only partially digest food. Anything over 118 degrees F is “cooked”, and the enzymes are dead. Still, there is some gain to eating cooked foods, since cooking unleashes a lot of good stuff such as beta carotene in carrots. While the major ingredients here are raw, some seasonings are not (maple syrup, cocoa powder). Typical dishes include sushi rolls and other veggie wraps, mushrooms, mung beans, broccoflower couscous, fresh cheeses, salads, cold soups, savoury fruit salads, curried vegetables. The book recommends accompanying wines, usually something white like a riesling, sauvignon blanc, albarino, or gruner veltliner. Some soft reds include pinot noir, sangiovese, and grenache. Both types of wines would do nicely to accompany raw foods which have a higher acidity and more minerally flavours. What I don’t like about this book: some recipes are complicated or long, such as the salsify with black truffles and porcini mushrooms. What I do like about this book: the wine recommendations for each dish are extensive, and the food-wine pairing notes make worthwhile reading. There is also a glossary of ingredients and techniques, and the names of the foods are highlighted in the index. Quality/Price Ratio: 94. 15. AQUAVIT AND THE NEW SCANDINAVIAN CUISINE (Houghton Mifflin, 2003; distr. by T.Allen, 302 pages, ISBN 0-618-10941-2, $69.95) is by Marcus Samuelsson, chef and co-owner of the trendy New York resto Aquavit, which specializes in Scandinavian food. This book is upscale all the way: a pretty good restaurant cookbook dealing with a hundred recipes for seafood, poultry, game, root vegetables, mushrooms, with Asian- French-American influences. He covers lots of raw and cured dishes, with such items as crispy salmon skin snacks, pickled herring sushi- style, slow-roasted turkey wings, salt-cured brisket in mustard broth, Napa cabbage dolmas, Scandinavian shrimp wrap. The salads are always interesting; there is an arugula with tomato-goat cheese terrine. There are a few family style preps, but these are mostly playful such as potatoes dipped in corn flakes, dried garlic chips, Swedish roast chicken with spiced apples, and Swedish meatballs. Spins on traditional foods include prune-stuffed pork roast and grilled lobster and chocolate blini. There are many potato recipes. Most of the dishes have contrasting textures or temperatures or flavours. There are lots of fish dishes but he has two Chilean sea bass recipes. Doesn’t he know that there is an international boycott by renowned chefs? Only imperial measurements are used in the recipes. What I don’t like about this book: book is too heavy for kitchen use, and there is too much wasted white blank space. Lots of comments are in light blue typeface, which can be unreadable without strong direct lighting. What I do like about this book: there is a drink section with several recipes for making your own flavoured aquavit. He proposes a Yellow Mary, made with yellow tomatoes…I liked the pantry list and the website resources (but US only). There are gorgeous photos for all the plated dishes. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 16. CANDY; the sweet history (Collectors Press, 2003; distr. by Ten Speed Press, 176 pages, ISBN 1-888054-83-2, $55) is by Beth Kimmerle, a creative merchandiser who has worked and consulted with major candy companies. Collectors Press puts out a wide-ranging series of books on collectibles; they have a winning formula which can be applied to almost every hobby. Here, there is a timeline (e.g., 1868, Cadbury produces Valentine’s Day chocolates; 1893, Wrigley produces gum), candy facts and figures, and a history of candy in America. The book is arranged by history and timeline, followed by major US types such as jelly candy, licorices, taffy, nougat, caramels, marshmallow, gum, and hard candy, chocolate. There is a chapter on candy no longer here (gone but not forgotten), and tours of candy factories. There are also basic candy recipes for classic peanut brittle, candied peel, fudge, gum drops, lollipops, plus many of the categories already mentioned. Overall, for the collectors, it is a rather commercial book with lots of American references and logos. More than 85 US candies are covered, including some by family-owned businesses doing everything by hand. Thus, there is major coverage to Hershey, Tootsie Roll, Jelly Belly, Wrigley, Mars, Cadbury, Chiclets, Dentyne, Kit Kat, Life Savers, Nestle, Bazooka…There are many reproductions of candy adverts, packaging, all in full-colour, including even Easter postcards celebrating chocolate bunnies. What I don’t like about this book: too short a history before World War I. What I do like about this book: resource list (bibliography, shopping guide, web sites). Quality/Price Ratio: 89. WINE AND FOODBOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR NOVEMBER 2003 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor 1. THE CALIFORNIA DIRECTORY OF FINE WINERIES (Wine House Press, 2003; distr. by Ten Speed Canada, 144 pages, ISBN 0-9724993-1-8, $31.95) is a book package, with Marty Olmstead a travel writer, and Robert Holmes a photographer (there are 180 photos here), plus a slew of designers and copyeditors. Sixty wineries are covered, in Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino. Each is profiled and is physically described (layout of winery operations, buildings, gardens), along with reproductions of labels. Various sidebars list directions, vineyard tours, wine tastings, culinary events, and nearby attractions. Maps show the sixty wineries plus about 100 others within the counties. For example, in Napa, there are Beaulieu, Beringer, Cakebread, Duckhorn, and Silver Oak. In Sonoma, there are Arrowood, Benziger, and Chateau St.Jean. In Mendocino, there are Fetzer and Roederer Estate. What I don’t like about this book: did these wineries pay for inclusion, or otherwise make a deal to purchase a minimum number of copies? No criteria are presented on why these wineries (and not others) were selected…There are also no tasting notes, nor any recipes. What I do like about this book: top-rate wineries are described, and the book is very useful for trips and tastings. Quality/Price Ratio: 83 2. NEW CELTIC COOKING (McArthur and Company, 2003, 290 pages, ISBN 1- 55278-348-0, $39.95) is by the husband and wife team of Kathleen Sloan- McIntosh (noted Canadian food writer) and Ted McIntosh (a wine guy of long standing, now working for a VQA winery). As the authors say, Celtia is a state of mind. And this is a great idea for a cookbook to exploit that state, with a wealth of information and detail. The Celtic community embraces Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Isle of Man, Cape Breton, Brittany, Galicia (in Spain), and – of course – all the ex-pats. Here are recipes and ideas of both new World and Old World plus some modern ideas. Ted has matched each recipe with a wine, cider, beer or single- malt. The 150 recipes include substantial soups and starters, e.g. caldo gallego from Galicia, pratie soup with smoked salmon, cullen skink (smoked haddock and potato). The bread recipes include such tasty items as cider bread from Brittany, diverse soda breads, crepes from Brittany, bannock, oat cakes and oat breads. Eggs and salads include glamorgan sausages (cheese fritters shaped like sausage) with onion chutney – a hit at the book’s launch. Other typical dishes include colcannon, breton chou farci, porridge, lobster, salmon, mussels, oysters, rabbit, oxtails, various meats, desserts and cookies. Measurements are expressed in both metric and imperial styles. There are some black and white photos of Celtia and some colour pictures of the food presentations. What I don’t like about this book: not much What I do like about this book: very detailed index, with all of the matching wines (food pairings) listed together in one place. Quality/Price Ratio: 93 3. THE CAKEBREAD CELLARS NAPA VALLEY COOKBOOK; wine and recipes to celebrate every season’s harvest (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 228 pages, ISBN 1-580018-508-3, $55) is by Delores and Jack Cakebread, with resident chef Brian Streeter, who has been with the winery since 1989. The winery itself was founded in 1973 in Napa. The 120 recipes are arranged by season, within courses. Some of the recipes come from their annual “American Harvest Workshop”, a non-profit event for chefs, farmers, food artisans, media, and winemakers held at Cakebread since 1987. The book is also the story of Jack and Delores Cakebread, and their family, with archival photos. This story clearly shows how important they think their home vegetable garden is. There is a description of their wines, and how they are grown, produced and vinified. The recipes begin on page 42. There is an opening paragraph for each recipe, giving some anecdotal notes. Typical dishes include artichoke leaves with prawns and aioli, roasted beet salad with candied walnuts, Moroccan lamb sandwich, and sturgeon with celery root. And each dish comes with a wine recommendation. For us in Canada, the book would be better if only Cakebread wines were more readily available here. What I don’t like about this book: the list of purveyors is limited to Northern California. There is also a lack of proper tasting notes for Cakebread wines, and all the measurements are imperial only. What I do like about this book: the hearty and refreshing soups. Quality/Price Ratio: 86 4. INDIAN COOKING (Barron’s, 2003, 239 pages, ISBN 0-7641-5649-7, $35.95) is by Madhur Jaffrey, well-known actor, cookbook author (over 15), and TV chef. This current book, originally published in 1982, has sold more than 1 million copies. The 2003 edition has been updated and revised, with illustrations from the 1994 BBC edition. It has been labeled – quite rightly – as the essential reference book on Indian cooking. Jaffrey has kept the old recipes and has added new ones. The 130 recipes concern meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, breads and rice, along with the pulses, relishes, chutneys, pickles which accompany the main courses. Other courses are soups, snacks, and sweets. She gives lots of background information on seasonings, equipment and techniques. The book is well-laid out and easy to follow, with both metric and imperial measurements. Typical dishes here include lamb with turnips, spicy green beans, salmon steamed with mustard seeds, cod steak, and, of course, the most highly requested dish of all: lemony chicken and coriander. What I don’t like about this book: if you have the earlier version, you don’t really need this one, except for the added recipes. What I do like about this book: ten menus are given, with page references to the dishes. Quality/Price Ratio: 92 (only if you don’t have the earlier book) 5. MEENA PATHAK’S FLAVOURS OF INDIA; a personal collection of authentic Indian recipes (Whitecap Books, 2003, 128 pages, ISBN 1-55285-374-8, $19.95 paper covers) is by the Director of Product Development for Pathak’s food in the UK. These are her favourite home cook and family recipes, meant for beginners. You can make your own sauces (she has the recipes here) or you can use her family company’s products. Like Jaffrey, there are ten menus of food, along with page references. The 100 recipes include lots of cauliflower, chicken and lamb dishes, with one beef and one pork. She offers plenty of help with her details on the Indian larder and specialty equipment. What I don’t like about this book: there are too many “travel” photos, and there is a one-page ad for Pathak’s, but I guess that keeps the price down. What I do like about this book: there is a section on Ayurvedic principles of food, the list of addresses for mail order foods includes Canada, and there are many photos of food prep techniques which are invaluable for basic cooks. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 6. OZ CLARKE’S NEW ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WINE; the complete world of wine, from Abruzzi to Zinfandel. Revised edition. (Harcourt, 2003; distr. by Raincoast, 416 pages, ISBN 0-15-602940-5, $29.95 paper) is an updated book, first issued in 1999. And actually, it runs from “Abadia” to “Zundel”. With about 700 photographs and more text, it is an expansion of his pocket guide and selling for $9 less. The 1600 A – Z entries cover producers, place names, and grape varieties; there are 37 regional features as well. Other material here includes profiles of major wine producers as well as vintage charts. There are Canadian references to the Niagara Peninsula and to the Okanogan Valley. Excellent illustrations (maps, photos, and wine labels) complete the package. What I don’t like about this book: there is a lot of duplication with the pocket guide, but of course most entries have been expanded. You certainly don’t need both books: pick this one as a first book. What I do like about this book: there is material on organic wines. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 7. THE BOOKLOVER’S COOKBOOK; recipes inspired by celebrated works of literature and the passages that feature them. (Ballantine Books, 2003, 326 pages, ISBN 0-345-46500-8, $32.95) is by Shaunda Kennedy Wenger and Janet Kay Jensen who have collected 170 recipes referring to mentions of food in the text of books such as “Like Water for Chocolate” (tamales), “Bridget Jones’s Diary” (shepherd’s pie). But the recipe here for shepherd’s pie is really for “cottage pie” since the book’s recipe contains beef. Some of the recipes use margarine, and I thought that somebody had already driven a stake through that trans-fatty acid product! Most of the recipes are quite common – blueberry muffins, sweet and sour chicken, beef stroganoff, coleslaw, macaroni and cheese – and easily available from the “Joy of Cooking” or a similar general all-purpose cookbook. The book features recipes “that were cooked up, served, or mentioned in your favorite novels and works of nonfiction”. Maybe so, but these are not original recipes. Bill Cosby’s “Fatherhood” mentions “vanilla frosting” – so here it is. There are lots of book quotes and glosses from different authors. What I don’t like about this book: there are not many “classic” novels here…who is it going to appeal to? give me an audience, please… What I do like about this book: not much Quality/Price Ratio: unrated 8. THE JOY OF MIXOLOGY; the consummate guide to the bartender’s craft (Clarkson Potter, 2003; distr. by Random House Canada, 386 pages, ISBN 0-609-60884-3, $45) is by Gary Regan, a magazine writer in spirits, and author of “The Bartender’s Bible”. The 350 recipes have been grouped by families of drinks; this allows for substitutions and the creation of new drinks. There are the usual details on histories of mixed drinks, the art of blending, equipment, ingredients for the bar, etc. The section on garnishes is particularly good. Recipes cover all the popular drinks of martinis, highballs, snappers, sours, juleps. What I don’t like about this book: few – and meagre – line drawings, no photos at all for a pricey book. What I do like about this book: charts, extensive bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 82 9. THE COOK’S CANON; 101 classic recipes everyone should know (HarperCollins, 2003, 251 pages, ISBN 0-06-008390-5, $39.95) is by Raymond Sokolov, former restaurant critic and food editor of the New York Times. These are dishes in the Western tradition, ranging from apple pie to zabaglione, and come with full historical notes. Included are his takes on shepherd’s pie, tripes (is this really a classic?), truite au bleu, vitello tonnato, wiener schnitzel, bstilla, paella, soufflé, moussaka, gazpacho, osso buco. But he also allows for substitutions. There is a concluding bibliography to augment the anecdotes which have been distributed throughout. What I don’t like about this book: some choices are questionable: should we all know “baked Alaska”? We may want to know ABOUT it, but not really know it as a recipe…Also, “beurre blanc” and “vinaigrette” – while important – are counted as part of the 101 classics. I wished Sokolov had instead included more main dishes. No wine notes. What I do like about this book: good basic collection, pretty extensive index for the 101 recipes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 10. CANAPES MADE EASY (Sterling, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 80 pages, ISBN 1-84330-413-9, $12.95US paper covers) is by Abigail Brown and Melissa Webb, two UK food caterers. Here are 50 illustrated recipes, showing in good detail the catering possibilities of menu planning for a crowd. There are a variety of filo-wrapped tidbits, other pastries such as tartlets, skewers, bruschetta toppings, dips, spoons, breads, and desserts What I don’t like about this book: too short, could have developed more themes and more food preps. What I do like about this book: plenty of high quality photos in just a few pages. Quality/Price Ratio: 86. 11. TAMALES 101; a beginner’s guide to making traditional tamales (Ten Speed Press, 2002, 190 pages, ISBN 1-58008-428-1, $28.95 paper covers) is by Alice Guadalupe Tapp, a “tamalera” artisan who owns (and makes) Tamara’s Tamales in California. She presents historical background and the basics; this covers the first 35 pages: making the masa, the fillings, the sauces, the wrappings and ties, and assembling the package. Tamales can be frozen, of course, and this is a great boon, since the cook can make several dozen at one time, as a make ahead. Her recipes are for different styles of masa. There are 11 sauces (mole, tomatillo, salsa verde, red chile), traditional Mexican tamales of cheese, chicken or pork, vegetarian and low-fat versions, regional Mexican and Latin American variations (chorizo potato tamales), and trendy voguish stuff such as using the ubiquitous sun-dried tomato pesto. Banana leaves can also be used, instead of corn husks. This makes the dish more Latin/Central American. There is even a bibliography of other Mexican cookbooks, as suggestions for further reading. Another first-rate single ingredient cookbook. What I don’t like about this book: only imperial measurements are used. What I do like about this book: there are first-rate diagrams of corn husks and photos of procedures, both showing the different styles of packages such as the one-husk package, the two-husk, the square, the small package. Good instructions on how to tie it all up. Quality/Price Ratio: 94 12. HAVE A GLASS; a modern guide to wine (Whitecap Books, 2003, 240 pages ISBN 1-55285-470-1, $19.95 paper covers) is by the British Columbia www.halfaglass.com team of James Nevison and Kenji Hodgson. So the first question is: why is the title of the book different from their business and writing ventures? This can be too confusing, since many people may request the book by the title “Half a Glass”. Or maybe it is a pun…But it doesn’t make any financial sense. The book itself is the latest basic introduction to wine, covering how to taste and to make notes, what to look for in wines, pairing food and wine, looking at wine lists in restaurants. It is being styled as a guide to living with wine. There are the usual sections on grapes, regions, and styles of wine (New World and Old World). What I don’t like about this book: some good sections are almost unreadable since they are in a light sickly green typeface. Also, they don’t seem to recommend any kind of stemware, insisting that regular drinking glasses are okay! What I do like about this book: the myths section is good, but they are wrong on the safety of vertical storage for under a year of cellaring; it all depends on humidity. I’ve seen corks dry out, and it is not pleasant. Quality/Price Ratio: 82 13. NEW ORLEANS BY THE BOWL; gumbos, jambalayas, soups and stews (Ten Speed Press, 2003, 162 pages, ISBN 1-58008-324-2, $28.95 paper covers) is by John DeMers, a New Orleans food writer who specializes in Southern US and Caribbean cooking. He has authored and co-authored two dozen such books, many available from Ten Speed Press. And his co-author here is Andrew Jaeger, a New Orleans owner-chef. 110 standards are covered, such as catfish gumbo (one of 12 gumbo recipes), chicken and sausage jambalaya (one of 8), oysters Rockefeller soup (one of 22). Everything is served in a bowl, of course, and the influences are French, Spanish and African cuisines, down home style…The authors cover the essentials of rice, beans, pasta, local seafood, pork, onion, bell pepper, celery, and roux. Local game and alligator are all covered in the recipe section. In many respects, the book can double as a homey Deep South cookbook. There is even a section on breads and desserts, so you can cook a complete meals from this book. What I don’t like about this book: it has imperial measurements only What I do like about this book: there is a glossary of terms and foods as found in New Orleans and Cajun country, with pronunciations for each word. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. 14. THE GARLIC LOVERS’ COOKBOOK. New Edition. (Celestial Arts, 2003; distr. by Ten Speed Canada, 262 pages, ISBN 1-58761-129-5, $23.95 paper covers) has been compiled by the Gilroy Garlic Festival Association. It was first published in 1980. And it is hard to believe that since 1980 it has sold a quarter million copies…Gilroy is in the heart of the garlic region in California. On the last full weekend in July, the garlic festival draws thousands of people, and this has been happening since 1979. This book recounts the early years of the festival, along with 200 recipes, many based on the Great Garlic Cook-off Contest. The book begins with an introduction to the use of garlic in the kitchen, and then moves on course by course, such as aioli and aglio, bagna calda, lots of dips and spreads, stews and casseroles, garlicked stuffings, soups, and sauces. And “Forty Clove Chicken”, of course. All the food preps emphasize garlic, so the odour is pretty noticeable. Most of the recipes are simple and easy to do; the hardest part might be peeling the garlic! A fine single ingredient book. What I don’t like about this book: no mention of accompanying wines, or of Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Clos de Gilroy. What I do like about this book: there is a good index and a garlic glossary, as well as a table of metric equivalents for the imperial measurements used. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 15. ZINGERMAN’S GUIDE TO GOOD EATING; how to choose the best bread, cheeses, olive oil, pasta, chocolate, and much more. (Houghton Mifflin, 2003, 483 pages, ISBN 0-395-92616-5, $29.95 paper covers) is by Ari Weinzweig, one of the two founders in 1982 of the renowned Ann Arbor deli. The company began with a staff of two, and has since climbed to 350…This is the definitive buying guide to great tasting food that foodies have been waiting for! “much more” in the subtitle includes vinegars, rices, corn meal, cured meats, smoked salmon, seasonings, honeys, teas. He opens with a section on how to taste food (we all know that, but some other people do not), followed by a chapter-by-chapter analysis of food products on the shelf, going into great detail on such matters as the differences amongst the various balsamics. Risotto rices are looked at, to determine a scale of creaminess. He outlines the pantry essentials, and how to discriminate, how they are made, how to shop for them, how to store, how to cook with them. For the latter he has some basic recipes, about 100 of them. There is an interesting bibliography for further reading. What I don’t like about this book: I think the paper covers may slip off with a lot of use. Also, the book is unwieldy to carry about a store. What I do like about this book: there are two separate indexes, one for products and one for recipes. There are also mail order sources, listing some competitors such as Dean and Deluca Quality/Price Ratio: 93. 16. CIDER; making, using, and enjoying sweet and hard cider (Storey Publishing, 2003; distr. by T.Allen, 220 pages, ISBN 1-58017-520-1, $22.95 paper covers) is by Annie Proulx (also known as E. Annie Proulx who wrote “Shipping News”) and Lew Nichols (who operates a cidery in Vermont). This is the third edition, originally published in 1980 by Garden Way. Hard cider is the fastest growing segment of the US beverage industry – more women are drinking cider and thus, cider has become more widely available in bars as an alternative to beer. This book will tell the homebrewer how to make his own sweet (non-alcoholic) and hard ciders. It ranges from the beginning, from planting an orchard (indicating types of apples suitable for particular climates) through cultivation, pressing, fermentation (filtering, racking), up through to taste appreciation. And applejack and apple brandies are also included, should you ever want to make your own, even though home distillation is illegal in North America. The book can also be useful for anybody who operates a commercial cidery, with details on types of apple presses and how to make your own press, the types of storage used (glass carboys and wooden barrels), and other technical details – many of which are in an appendix. There are recipes for six types of cider (still, sparkling, champagne, barrel, French, and spice or fruit flavoured) with in formation about apple types and yeasts. The processes are clear, with simple instructions for going step-by-step. I’ve made my own cider for 15 years, using free run juice from windfalls, purchased sweet cider, and concentrates from the UK. I’ve enjoyed all of them. What I don’t like about this book: there is no bibliography for further reading, nor is there any word about concentrates. What I do like about this book: there are plenty of illustrations, and the authors even have a defects list to cross-check for troubleshooting. Also, there is a lot of material given for Canada. Quality/Price Ratio: 94. 17. SWEETS; a history of candy (Bloomsbury, 2002; distr. by Raincoast, 392 pages, ISBN 1-58234-307-1, $22.95 paper covers) is by Tim Richardson, a British journalist whose grandfather worked for a toffee company and whose father was a dentist. This is its first paper edition. The text delves into the range and diversity of candies through history and around the world: sugar cane, honey, sugar loaves, hard candy, jellies, sugar used as a spice. There are side trips to Turkish delights, liquorices, rock candy, marzipan, baklava, marshmallows, and chewing gum. He discusses the taste of sugar and why the body craves it, and the effects – good and bad -- of sugar on the body. Chocolate, of course, is also covered, in a huge chapter. The first 200 pages deal with sweets in general; the rest of the book is on confectionaries, now dominated by Mars, Cadbury, Nestle, Kraft, and Hershey in the Western world. Consumers, of course, are loyal fanatics: the top twenty brands around the world have not changed for over 50 years! In general, the formulas and equipment for sweets are kept secret, but Richardson did manage a tour of Toblerone, and he describes it in this book. He was shut out of Lindt and Sucard. What I don’t like about this book: sadly, there are no illustrations, no pictures of sugar creations, and no recipes. Just text… What I do like about this book: he manages to cover a huge range of products and time without destroying a good writing style. There is an extensive bibliography. Quality/Price Ratio: 90 18. CANDYMAKING IN CANADA; the history and business of Canada’s confectionary industry (Dundurn Press, 2003, 125 pages, ISBN 1-55002- 395-0, $28.99 paper covers) is by David Carr, a freelance writer who also wrote a history of the William Nielson company. Some of his research for that history has been used here, along with many archival photos from the Neilson company. In Canada, chocolate products have almost half of the sweets market. And 80% of boxed chocolate sales are at Valentine’s, Easter, and Mother’s Day – a narrow three month window. But all the boxed chocolate companies also have bars and other sugar candies to carry them through the other nine months. The book is full of facts and figures like these, all on our consumption practices and habits, and the mergers and acquisitions of sugar candy consolidation. This is a straightahead account, beginning with the history of chocolate and its arrival in Canada, the rise of penny candy, bubble gum, the double whammy of the Depression (lack of sales) and World War II (scarcity), the origins of holiday candy traditions, profiles of Ganongs, Neilson, and Laura Secord. He also covers the rise of the large international conglomerates of Hershey, Cadbury, Nestle, and Kraft, the export markets, and the new impact of nostalgia on baby boomers buying “retro” candy. Illustrations show the evolution of Canadian company logos. What I don’t like about this book: no index! What I do like about this book: many archival photos and drawings, many illustrations of candy labels, billboard adverts. Quality/Price Ratio: 95. 19. NIAGARA FLAVOURS; recipes from southwest Ontario’s finest chefs. Second edition (James Lorimer & Co., 2003, 128 pages, ISBN 1-55028-794-X, $24.95 paper covers) is by Brenda Matthews, with updating by Linda Bramble, a Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada colleague of mine. Matthews has also written a similar book entitled “Muskoka Flavours”, while Bramble is an adjunct at Brock’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute and author of “Touring Niagara Wine Country”. Bramble has added 13 more recommended restaurants to this book’s latest edition, and she has also contributed wine recommendations for each recipe. So there are now 45 establishments, 23 in Niagara proper, and 22 in Stratford, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, and other exotic places. It is not quite restricted to the Niagara peninsula. 90 recipes are arranged by course, followed by profiles and photos of the establishments. Typical dishes here, with recipes sourced as to chef, are for artichoke strudel, clover honey roasted quail, smoked chicken spring rolls, tomato basil tart, BBQ duck. You could have fun with this book. What I don’t like about this book: too oversized, which does not make it travel-friendly. What I do like about this book: gorgeous photos of plated dishes. Quality/Price Ratio: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR OCTOBER 2003 =============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. WINE; a woman's guide (Bantam Press, 2003, 288 pages, ISBN 0-593-04993-4, $25.95 paper covers) is by Kitty Johnson -- Hugh Johnson's daughter -- and a wine writer and media person in the UK. She asks: why this book? and she says that in the UK, women drink more wine than men do. She also notes that women care less about name-dropping and vintages, women care more about taste and enjoyment, and that women have a finely tuned sense of smell and taste. She goes on to describe the women in the industry: the widows (e.g. Veuve Cliquot) and daughters (e.g. Rothschild) who took over wineries, women winemakers around the world, wine writers, PR personnel, agents. But men still dominate, particularly in Europe and the UK. Women have some measure of equality in the North American wine business. And there are many spousal co-partnerships as well in the New World. Johnson fitingly examines wine styles and how wine squeezes into lifestyles and food. The appeal of the book seems mainly to upwardly mobile women who need to hold their own in business discussions. She begins with winetasting descriptions that we all know and love: oaky, creamy, buttery, biscuity, juicy, crisp, spicy, earthy, honeyed, floral, peppery, stalky, etc. Then she moves on to wine and food matching, paying attention to vegetarian foods and organic wines -- two big areas in mnay women's lives. Other material covers parties, holidays, shopping by label, indications of sweet or dry, bars and restaurants, dealing with wait staff, and health aspects. What I don't like about this book: the stiff paperback book is hard to open up and read. There are many names and addresses for wines, but they are all British -- sadly, this is unavoidable since the book was published in the UK. What I do like about this book: there is a lot of useful information here for both genders, particularly on wine tasting. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 2. WINE FOR WOMEN; a guide to buying, pairing and sharing wine (William Morrow, 2003; distr. by HarperCollins, 337 pages, ISBN 0-06-052332-8, $38.95) is by Leslie Sbrocco, a wine reviewer for the New York Times and a wine judge. In the United States, women are 64% of all wine consumers. Sbrocco has three main areas of guidance for women: shopping guides and recommended wines (how to buy), wine and food meals and pairing (menu design), and tips and advice on storage, serving, gifting, entertaining. But she doesn't really give any valid reasons for this book as "wine knowledge for women": she doesn't go into the hows and whys of women being better tasters, or their positions in the industry. But on the other hand, she doesn't write for that business connection as Johnson does. She has produced a decent, if general, introductory wine book, useful for both genders. And certainly an excellent book for wait servers. She does a varietal-by-varietal approach, not a taste profile approach. So she goes from chardonnay, through pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, riesling, viognier and the aromatics, then the reds (beginning with cabernet sauvignon through zinfandel), rose, sparklers, dessert wines. The emphasis is on connecting place to taste, such as New Zealand for sauvignon blanc. There are illustrations of labels for purchasing wines, along with shopping guides and price ranges. She has lots of food ideas, suggestions, and recipes in narrative style -- to go with each grape variety, based on the weight of the wine. She has an active website through which one can access more or different data on wine buying, pairing, and sharing (entertaining). She also has a monthly email newsletter. What I don't like about this book: I don't really see a gender focus here. What I do like about this book: there is a lengthy -- but U.S. -- resources list for websites on buying wines, accessories, travel, associations, wine schools, wine events, and importers. Most of this data is useful in Canada. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 3. THE CHOPRA CENTER COOKBOOK; nourishing body and soul (J.Wiley, 2002, 310 pages, ISBN 0-471-45404-4, $24.95 paper covers) is by Deepak Chopra, David Simon, and Leanne Backer (the Executive Chef of the Chopra Center). The book is about food served at the Chopra Center, food that can be recreated at home. Plus the valuable "30-day nutrition plan" based on the Ayurveda healing system. The plan is essentially a diet for a month, with few repetitions. It is sensible, and one can lose a lot of weight just by sticking to the diet and dropping the excess baggage of fats and sugars not found in the recipes. The book has 200 low-fat easy to prepare recipes for all courses. "You become what you eat" is the theme, and the guiding principles are sinply to eat fresh, natural, conventionally prepared foods. This means mostly organic, liberal use of herbs and spices for flavour and health, mostly vegetarian (treat meat as a garnish), an occasional glass of wine, main meal at lunch, and being aware of HOW one is eating. The book has a huge pantry list of herbs, spices, grains/nuts/seeds, beans, condiments. Tasty examples: mango tomato salsa, mediterranean pasta, moroccan vegetables. What I don't like about this book: makes it all seem too simple to lose weight and instill healthy eating habits. What I do like about this book: sensible nutrition principles, thorough index. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 4. THE SOBER KITCHEN; recipes and advice for a lifetime of sobriety. (Harvard Common Press, 2003; distr. by National Book Network, 474 pages, ISBN 1- 55832-221-3, $29.95 paper covers) is by Liz Scott, a caterer specializing in dietary needs for those in recovery from substance abuse (alcohol, drugs). She herself is a recovered alcoholic. The book promises to be "the essential guide to eating and cooking for a healthy and successful recovery", and the major premise is, of course, that good food makes a difference in the recovery. Lots of stuff appears within the two-columned pages. The 300 recipes are designed to supplement the recovery process by providing nutrition to fight vitamin deficiency and hypoglycemia. Through these food preps, one can develop healthy eating habits and a new lifestyle. The first part of the book is about staying sober/drug-free, with the goals of getting the minerals and vitamins back into the body. Beverages (a good lemon barley water thirst quencher), snacks, soups, simple meals of pasta and rice are emphasized. Main thoughts here are to get one to eat breakfasts, keep nutritional snacks and beverages on hand, plan the meals, avoid trigger foods. The second part deals with "feeding your inner child" with hearty breakfasts, brunches, entrees, vegetables, desserts, as one begins making changes in diets, balancing foods, and even sharing meals with others. The third part is the life-long gourmet, with more upscale foods and salads and vegetarian cooking. She has lots of sidebars on remedies, tips, and nutritional advice. What I don't like about this book: she recommends microwaving, which has now been proved to actually reduce nutrients. Try stirfrying, or steaming, or even just raw foods (e.g., broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, salads). What I do like about this book: an extensive bibliography and resources list, and the index is massive and well-defined. Quality-to-Price rating: 96 (higher if you are recovering). 5. TOURING NIAGARA WINE COUNTRY, second edition (James Lorimer, 2003, 96 pages, ISBN 1-55028-795-8, $19.95 paper covers) is by Linda Bramble, a certified sommelier, wine writer and adjunct at the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticultural Institute at Brock University. [Disclaimer: Linda Bramble is a colleague of mine in the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada.] The first edition was three years ago -- a long time in Ontario's wine regions-- as "Touring Niagara's Wine Country", and somehow it lost an apostrophe along the way. The second edition covers 42 wineries, along with seven theme tours based on wine varietals (i.e., where to go to get the better tasting wines) such as chardonnays, ice wines, pinot noirs, riesling. There is also a section on "Top Ten Must See" wineries, not based on taste, but based on tourist attraction or food or both. The book's main thrust is to present all the events, festivals, places of interest, accommodations, wine producers, and restaurants which have some value. For all there are names, addresses, and websites included in the sidebars. Wineries have capsule comments and photographs. All of it is bound together by Bramble's knowledge of winemaking, local cuisine, and history. What I don't like about this book: too short, more could have been said. What I do like about this book: very accurate guide, maps and varietal routes are an improvement. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 6. COOKING AT HOME WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (J.Wiley, 2003, 304 pages, ISBN 0-471-45043-X, $60.50) presents the essentials of cooking: tools and equipment, ingredients, pantry, techniques. There are scores of cooking techniques which are explained, with full instructions and photos of processes, followed by 200 basic recipes with more photos of platings. The book starts with soups (and stocks) such as Thai hot and sour soup, moving through the menu to desserts such as bread and butter pudding. The basic and the classic are presented, with plenty of paged cross-references from a recipe to the techniques involved. For example, for the chicken thighs with duxelles stuffing, there are page references to boning (p.67), making bread crumbs (p.26), roasting and baking (p.30). Basics also include southern fried chicken and chicken breasts made with diverse sauces. Classics include duck and orange sauce, osso buco, moules mariniere, braised rabbit. What I don't like about this book: while there are illustrations of what you can do with a knife (e.g., chop, dice, julienne, etc.), there are no detailed instructions nor illustrations on how to hold the knive, nor on the stroke action. What I do like about this book: authoritative style, useful for beginners. Quality-to-Price rating: 88, for the home cook 7. CHOOSING WINE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2003; distr. by T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-510-2, $19.95) is by Andrew Jefford, a UK freelance writer and broadcaster on wines, spirits, and food. He has received 11 awards for his writings. It is more difficult buying wine than ever before, because the old grape varieties are grown in new places, newer varieties are spreading in both old and new places, there are new producers and new wine regions where both old and new grapes are grown, and there are both old and new techniques for winemaking principles. It requires serious knowledge about both what is available globally and what is available in the local market... Jefford's book is a big help in sorting it out. He emphasizes reading the wine label and tasting wines, alone or with friends, the wine by itself or with dinner. He describes the major red and white varieties, and the types of wines in the regions, along with wine styles from light reds and dry whites through to something heavier. Food matching is also covered. What I don't like about this book: some of the print is too small or screened against gray or coloured pages. Also, the book is too short. What I do like about this book: the basics are covered for beginners, and the author has included a needed glossary. Quality-to-Price rating: 87 (better value as a paperback) 8. PARTY ! easy recipes for fingerfood and party drinks (Ryland Peters & Small, 2003; distr. by T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-502-1, $19.95) is by Fran Warde, a UK chef, caterer, and cooking school owner, now Food Editor of "Red" magazine, and a cookbook author. She emphasizes light, small foods, and especially finger foods. There are 29 food recipes and 14 drink recipes, enough to get anybody started. Categories are: nibbles and dips for cocktails (spiced nuts, parmesan and rosemary wafers), breads and awraps (sage and Stilton flatbread, ciabatta pizzas), bites (smoked pastries, duck forks), and sweets (plum pastries, chocolate-dipped strawberries). There are many good photos of ideas for presentations. What I don't like about this book: too brief What I do like about this book: comprehensive for beginners, good photos. Quality-to-Price rating: 85 (better value as a paperback) 9. AFTER-DINNER DRINKS; discovering, exploring, enjoying (Ryland Peters & Small, 2003; distr.by T.Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-508-0, $19.95) is by award-winning UK wine writer Andrew Jefford. Here are the brief basics of port, sherry, madeira, whiskies, brandy, calvados, rum, tequila, eaux-de- vie, bitters, liqueurs, after-dinner cocktails. For example, the material on port deals with rubies, tawnies, vintage, storing, serving, and food ideas. Whiskies cover single malts, bourbon, irish -- Canada gets one sentence. What I don't like about this book: too general, with many gratuitous pictures. What I do like about this book: basics cover a lot of ground, for beginners. Quality-to-Price rating: 83 (better value as a paperback). 10. TURN UP THE HEAT; chili dishes from around the world (Southwater-Anness, 2003; distr. by National Book Network, 128 pages, ISBN 1-84215-832-5, $23.99) is by Jenni Fleetwood, a UK cookbook author who specializes in hot and spicy foods. She is the consultant editor, and many of the recipes come from different cooks. This book was previously published as part of a larger volume, "Red Hot Chilli Pepper". It has a photographic guide to the different types of chilies in the world, and how to prepare each -- with over 400 photos. Each chili is followed by a couple of recipes, with excellent photos. There are 50 hot recipes in all: Mexican salsas, Thai salads, Malaysian curry, sambals, BBQ spices, Chinese noodles, Cajun foods. The recipes were contributed by many different cooks. What I don't like about this book: it seems a bit short, at only 50 recipes. What I do like about this book: there is a chapter on chili gifts. Quality-to-Price rating: 84. 11. MALT WHISKY; discovering, exploring, enjoying (Ryland Peters & Small, 2003; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-504-8, $19.95) and 12. VODKA; discovering, exploring, enjoying (Ryland Peters & Small, 2003; distr. by T. Allen, 64 pages, ISBN 1-84172-506-8, $19.95) are both by Ian Wisniewski, a UK food, drink, and travel writer, specializing in spirits. Both books have a similar arrangement: what it is, how it is made, where it is made, and how to enjoy. For Malts, there is a brief description of blends, mashing, fermenting, distilling, aging, highland, lowland, islays, vintages, finishes, and single barrels. Plus, of course, notes on tasting and enjoying aromas, palates and flavours. The Vodka book dwells mainly on cocktails and flavoured vodkas, with space devoted to East European, Scandinavian and Russian vodkas. Enjoyment appears to be mainly "down the hatch", with a need for food. There are six cocktail recipes and some toasts. What I don't like about this book: needs to be in paperback, reducing the price. What I do like about this book: compact and basic, for the niche market. Good photography and layout. Quality-to-Price rating: 86 13. SMOKED SALMON; delicious innovative recipes (Chronicle Books, 2003; distr. by Raincoast, 131 pages, ISBN 0-8118-3447-6, $28.95 paper covers) is by Max Hansen, a caterer, and Suzanne Goldenson, a freelance food writer. This is a very useful single-purpose cookbook for smoked salmon fanatics. Sixty recipes cover canapes, eggs, salads, sandwiches, and mains: smoked salmon (SS) polenta, SS flan, SS pasta, SS popovers. Techiques include smoking at home, making salmon roses for garnishes, and roasting other items such as garlic, nuts and seeds. Some recipes come for elsewhere, such as Pearl Oyster Bar's johnnycakes with SS. Some recipes are for the basics, such as SS mousse, SS devilled eggs, and SS cucumber sandwich. Upscale creations include SS wrapped asparagus with black sesame seeds, SS napoleons, and SS maki rolls. What I don't like about this book: there is only one soup (vichyssoise with smoked salmon). Hansen also need to give us some detail about using up the skins, bones, and leftovers for fumets and soup bases. What I do like about this book: great presentationm photos, and the single- purpose nature. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 14. SOLO SUPPERS; simple delicious meals to cook for yourself (Chronicle Books, 2003; distr. by Raincoast, 156 pages, ISBN 0-8118-3620-7, $29.95 paper covers) is by Joyce Goldstein, a Mediterranean cookbook author. Singles are the fastest growing segment of North American population; this includes both young people and seniors. Goldstein gives us many tips and techniques on shopping for one, stocking the pantry, planning meals and leftovers, variations for future meals, use of freezer and refrigerator for storage. She advocates the microwave oven to reheat cooked food; this stops the leftover from drying out. She has recipes for sauces which keep, and which can be added to other foods or vinaigrettes or mayonnaise to make dressings (e.g., peppery prune sauce, pesto, aioli, peanut sauce, chutneys). Meals are basically one main course plus a salad or dessert. Soups are always useful for singles, as a main course. They can be hearty creations, and surpluses can be frozen. Salads are also heavy and huge, if they are a maincourse,e.g., duck and belgian endive salad with pear, or steak salads. She covers a range of pastas and grains, eggs and cheese, meat and fish -- all in about 70 recipes. What I don't like about this book: not enough soups. What I do like about this book: another single-purpose cookbook. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 15. MICHAEL BROADBENT'S WINE TASTING (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 176 pages, ISBN 1-84000-854-7, $21.95) was first published in 1968, and last revised in 2000. As he says, "We do not need to be experts to enjoy drinking wine". Broadbent, probably the world's most experienced taster, then begins by laying out the taste characteristics of practice, memory and notes. He frowns on the problem of mass-marketed blended wines and on "global" wines with homogeneous tastes. He goes on to describe what each varietal should taste like, regions and microclimates, winemaking practices, and the effects of aging on wine. He moves forward into the elements of tasting (glasses, lighting, temperature, sight, nose, palate). He concludes with the organizing of tastings, recording tasting notes, scoring systems, tasting wine against food. Throughout, there are many examples of tasting notes and of wine vocabulary. He ends with a glossary of tasting terms in English, French, Italian and German, and a bibliography which concentrates on the scientific aspect of tasting. There is a coloured section which outlines the variations in colour amongst the varietals, such as showing a fresh red Bordeaux, followed by a ready red, and then a mature, and then an overly mature red Bordeaux. He does the much the same for Sauterne, Beaujolais, Burgundy, Sherries, Ports. A great reference guide for sommeliers. What I don't like about this book: a bit unwieldy for carrying around, not quite pocket sized. He does not go into the differences between men and women as distinctive tasters. What I do like about this book: good writing style. I also like the way he dismisses other books for beginners as being "unoriginal". Quality-to-Price rating: 98, especially if you don't have an earlier edition. 16. MICHAEL BROADBENT'S WINE VINTAGES (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 223 pages, ISBN 1-84000-853-9, $21.95) was first published in 1992, and last revised in 2000. He poses a number of queries (and then answers them): what is a vintage? why are vintages important? and what makes a good or bad vintage? His purpose is "to rate every significant vintage of all the world's principal wine districts and wine types, assessing quality, advising whether, and for how long, one should keep young wine, and summarizing the maturity and current drinkability of the wines of former vintages". The book is arranged first by France, then by Europe, New World, Champagne, Port and Madeira, with up to a century of vintage years. He briefly explains the conditions which produced "the good, the bad and the ugly" vintages. The current vintage covered is 2002, and recent vintages have been reassessed, exspecially for current drinking. And throughout there are discussions scattered on the ageability of certain whites and dessert wines. There are two pages on Eastern Canada, appearing for the first time. Unfortunately, for 2001, no mention is made of the Asian ladybug problem. What I don't like about this book: British Columbia does not appear at all; the Pacific Northwest section doesn't cover BC. What I do like about this book: thorough, comprehensive and comprehensible, great writing style. Quality-to-Price rating: 97, especially if you don't have an earlier edition. 17. CUISINE AND CULTURE; a history of food and people (J.Wiley, 2004, 364 pages, ISBN 0-471-20280-0, $39.95 paper covers) is by Linda Civitello, M.A (History) who teaches food history. The basic theme is how history shapes our current diet. The scope is universal, from pre-history to modern times, the grand sweep being a good overview. For the most part, each chapter is an anecdotal survey of a time period and/or region. Later, closer to our new millennium, the focus becomes Western, and then in the 20th century, it is mostly North American. This is a useful textbook for culinary arts courses, to give some sense of history to the preparation of food. Accompanying the narration are some historical drawings and reproductions. There are plenty of sidebars for historical tidbits, as well as pronunciation guides to French and Italian words. The appendix has a cookbook chronology, from Apicius (1st century AD) through La Varenne, Beeton, Escoffier, Davidson), plus notes on why these books are important. The book concludes with an extensive bibliography, footnotes, and index. What I don't like about this book: there are a few typos, such as "vein" for the German "wein". What I do like about this book: there are sample menus and historical recipes, and the writing style is lively. Quality-to-Price rating: 18. THE WINES OF GERMANY (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. by McArthur, 445 pages, $39.95 paper covers) is by Stephen Brook, author of several wine books including one on California and one on Pauillac. It is the first major book on German wine in about a decade. He opens by discussing why German wine sales have plummeted over the past decades. He blames the wine laws, the marketing, and the weight of history. His preliminary chapters include pages on the wine laws (ripeness levels only, no recognition of terroir nor yields), the attempts at vineyard classifications, the change in wine styles from dry to sweet to dry, the marketing of wines from the bottom up (bulk wines, labelling) -- including the new categories of Classic and Selection, and data on the 70 or so grape varieties found in Germany. The bulk of the book is a regional approach, 13 sections (2 from East Germany in 1990), to the leading producers -- out of 14,000. Each region has a historical description and contemporary scene narrative, followed by vineyards and villages, with generic tasting notes, and producers' directory-type information of names and addresses, websites, production, and some specific tasting notes. He concludes with a short chapter on those negociants working on the lower end of the market, and some comments on the vintages from 1920 through 2002 -- but with no ratings. What I don't like about this book: who is Stephen Brook? There is no info about him on the jacket -- I had to do a data search. The index is okay, but some entries need to be further broken down. Under "trockenbeerenauslese", there are 28 page references but no further information about what is on those pages. And I really don't feel like plowing through the book that way. Varieties are only indexed under "Grape Varieties", with no cross-references: there are almost 50 references to riesling! What I do like about this book: this is a fresh and compelling look at German wines, with updated figures and data. A basic book, and a huge effort. Quality-to-Price rating: 94. .... More next month, of course.... WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR SEPTEMBER 2003 ================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. WINE FOR DUMMIES. 3rd edition (John Wiley Publishing, 2003, 403 pages, ISBN 0-7645-2544-1, $29.99 paper covers) is by Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing- Mulligan, wine educators in New York City. The first edition was about a decade ago, and this book gets revised every five years. It has been widely endorsed by the industry, and has served as a popular textbook for many wine courses. It even won a Georges Duboeuf Wine Book of the Year award. This edition presents a general updating, with mention and notes about new appellations and new rules, plus of course, new wines that have come onto the market. Vintage charts have been updated. The thorough text contains basic information on storing, tasting and serving wine, along with material on grape varietals and how to buy wine (in the store, in the restaurant). But the bulk of the book is a region-by-region account of winegrowing areas. An index and glossary completes the package. What I don't like about this book: a bit too cute in places. What I do like about this book: informative and useful. Quality-to-Price rating: 92. 2. THE NEW WINE LOVER'S COMPANION. 2d edition (Barron's, 2003, 667 pages, ISBN 0-7641-2003-4, $21.95 paper covers) first came out in 1995. And obviously there have been lots of changes since then. This current book does not include producers -- that would have made it too large a book -- but there is a section called "pronunciation guide for wine producers and proprietary brands", which is useful. Topics include grape varieties, wine styles, regions, the official classifications, terms on the labels, and winemaking techniques. So about 4000 wine-related terms are arranged alphabetically, with plenty of cross-references and pronunciation guides. The compendium-type data also includes a bibliography, world vineyard production, world wine production and consumption, Bordeaux wine classifications, the wine aroma wheel, bottle sizes, label structures, restaurant wines, corkscrews, leftover wines, glassware. The volume appears to be sturdy, of a large pocket size, great for under a bar or for a sommelier's library. It is definitely meant for the wine trade. This is a nifty "companion" volume to Sharon Herbst's "The Food Lover's Companion", also published by Barron's. What I don't like about this book: some illustrations would have been useful, particularly for describing things such as agrafe, wine cradle, or bung. Also, it is just a bit too big for the pocket -- but perfect for the ubiquitous backpack... What I do like about this book: friendly price, comprehensive nature. Quality-to-Price rating: 91. 3. BARTENDING FOR DUMMIES. 2d edition. (John Wiley Publishing, 2003, 358 pages, ISBN 0-7645-3968-X, $24.99 paper covers) has been revised to include more hip and trendy drinks. Ray Foley, the publisher of "Bartender" magazine, is the author. Preliminary matter deals with home bar setups and the base drinks. The A - Z alphabetical format has been retained, for about 1000 recipes with illustrations of what stemware to use for each drink. There are lots of charts, websites for producers and suppliers and information, a recipe index, and a topical index. What I don't like about this book: not really that much new material, but if the book is to stay in print for a time, then it might as well be updated in a general sense. What I do like about this book: value-driven, in a respected off-handed series. Quality-to-Price rating: 92 (less if you already have the first edition). 4. COMPLETE HANDBOOK OF BEERS AND BREWING; the beer lover's guide to the world (Southwater- Anness Publishing, 2003; distrib. by National Book Network, 256 pages, ISBN 1-84215-788-4, $29.99 paper covers) was first published in 1997 as "World Encyclopedia of Beer". This is a history of beer, the brewing process, and the differences within beers (bitters, ales, lagers, Pilsener, fruit beers) -- all in 60 pages. The book is arranged by region, beginning with Ireland and the UK, then Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia, New Zealand, and the Ameericas. Canada gets six pages -- and needs updating (there is no Creemore and Upper Canada is still listed). For each beer, there is a label reproduction and thumbnail sketches and descriptions, but only up through 1995 !! In the United States, there have been lots of microbreweries in the past 10 years, but these are not listed. There is little evidence of updating in this book. So it appears to be just a "paperback reprint" of a 1997 book with tables collating 1993 and 1995 figures. What I don't like about this book: well, it is outofdate...and the index has too tiny a typeface. What I do like about this book: 600 colour photos. Quality-to-Price rating: 73. 5. THE VINEYARD KITCHEN; menus inspired by the seasons (HarperCollins, 2003, 390 pages, ISBN 0-06-001396-6, $49.95) is by Maria Helm Sinskey, former Executive Chef at San Francisco's PlumpJack Cafe, and now cooking at her own vineyard (Robert Sinskey Vineyard). So the vineyards are Californian, and the food is Napa style. There is a strong Italian influence here, from her great-grandmother. This results in a perfect "Cal-Ital" book, with plenty of wine-friendly recipes. The arrangement is seasonal, from Fall to Summer. Forty menus (10 per season), with a total of 180 recipes. The food principles behind the book are: fresh, in season, local, and organic. But you have to live in California to meet all these objectives...Reading this book remainds me that it is another world in Napa, with organic farming prevailing, local cheeses and' local butchers. Still, it is nice that her wine recommendations come from all around the world, not just from California. Typical recipes include: white corn, caramelized onion and marjoram-scented strudel with spicy greens; orange-scented fallen chocolate souffle cake; fuyu persimmon, candied almond, and goat cheese salad. This is a book for the adventuresome cook and the professional chef. What I don't like about this book: ingredient lists are boxed off in green ink screened on a light green background -- this makes it hard to follow. It is also hard to photocopy, which is presumably why it was done. What I do like about this book: through indexing of ingredients, and a good contribution of new recipes to our database of food preps. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 6. THE ESSENTIAL MEDITERRANEAN; how regional cooks transform key ingredients into the world's favorite cuisines (HarperCollins, 2003, 436 pages, ISBN 0-06-019651-3, $45.95) is by Namcy Harmon Jenkins, author of Italian cookbooks, such as "Flavors of Puglia" and Flavors of Tuscany", and "The Mediterranean Diet Cookbook". It is arranged by product, twelve chapters beginning with salt, and moving through olives and olive oil, wheat (pasta and couscous), wine, legumes (beans), peppers and tomatoes, pork, seafood, cheese. Jenkins gives us some history and ethnography of the basin, along with some US source food markets and their websites. Scattered throughout there are profiles of peersonalities of food purveyors in the Mediterranean, connecting food and culture. The 170 recipes are given in a gung-ho style. What I don't like about this book: her exuberance knows no bounds. What I do like about this book: good index covers text and non-recipes as well as ingredients. She also has a long, uptodate bibliography. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 7. MOOSEWOOD RESTAURANT CELEBRATES; festive meals for holidays and special occasions (Clarkson Potter, 2003; distr. by Random House Canada, 416 pages, ISBN 0-609-80811-7, $37.95 paper) is by the Moosewood Collective (nine names are listed). This is also their tenth book, five having won or been nominated for James Beard Awards. This upscale vegetarian restaurant is in Ithaca, New York (I've been there) and is now thirty years old. The book has 35 menus for festivities: dinners, parties, holidays (including Diwali, Kwanza, Ramadan, Cinco de Mayo, Mardi Gras), picnics, weddings and committment celebrations, birthdays, sports nights, dessert buffet, tapas party, holiday cookie exchange. Along the way there are also food preparations for party nibbles, cakes, foods for gifts (many mailable), and food/wine pairing/matching. About 100 vegan dishes are listed, as well as 140 quickly-made dishes, in the menu sections. Typical of the almost 300 preps include cauliflower-green olive salad or cranberry corn meal biscotti. What I don't like about this book: only seven of the 100 vegan dishes listed have page references from the menus to the recipes. And none of the quickly- made dishes have page references. There is only one page for food and wine pairing, and no real discussion about organic wines. What I do like about this book: these are quality recipes to add to your menu for "vegetarian specials". All the preps have detailed recipe instructions. Quality-to-Price rating: 91. 8. NEW WORLD KITCHEN; Latin American and Caribbean cuisine (Ecco/HarperCollins, 2003, 322 pages, ISBN 0-06-018505-8, $53.95) is by Norman Van Aken, owner of the Miami restaurant "Norman's", and a multiple award winner (James Beard, Robert Mondavi, Food Arts) for his previous books. This is his fourth... Van Aken claims to have coined the term "fusion cuisine". His net is widely cast, with recipes based on food from Cuba, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Jamaica, Brazil, Peru, Argentina -- and almost all of it well-spiced and with some heat. Still, it is food adapted to the North American palate style, especially from his restaurant menus. His take on street food can be converted at home to appetizers and tapas. Other courses include a full range from soup to nuts, such as gnocchi for the 29th of each month (go read about it), pepperpot, matambre flank steak. Each recipe has been sourced with historical or factual data and country of origin. There are 250 recipes here. What I don't like about this book: well, there is a strong dash of megalomania. What I do like about this book: the glossary has a pronunciation guide, the source guide has web sites listed, and there is a decent bibliography. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 9. THE SOUTH AMERICAN TABLE; the flavor and soul of authentic home cooking from Patagonia to Rio de Janeiro, with 450 recipes (Harvard Common Press, 2003; distr. by National Book Network, 478 pages, ISBN 1-55832-248-5, $48.95) is by Maria Baez Kijac, a food writer and researcher born in Ecuador but working in the USA. She spent 15 years researching this book. All the recipes are in homestyle, for the most part, covering 10 countries beginning with Venezuela and Columbia southwards. No Mexican nor Caribbean materials are here. She begins with a written description about geographical influences, civilization (Indian, Portuguese, and Spanish influences), the Columbian Exchange, and the impact of tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beans, chiles and spices. She covers street food, national dishes, signature dishes identified with leaduing countries such as Brazil and Argentina. The texts are in double columns but with a good size typeface. All the recipes are placed in context of their origins. Some examples: quinoa soup with pork, calabi matutero (chicken with okra and cabbage, originally made with goat), cuscuz de tapioca (tapioca and coconut cake). This is another winner from the Harvard Common Press.... What I don't like about this book: pretty hard to find fault. What I do like about this book: a glossary/dictionary of South American foods plus an extensive bibliography. Quality-to-Price rating: 94. 10. THE LATIN AMERICAN KITCHEN (Kyle Cathie, 2002; distr. by Whitecap, 240 pages, ISBN 1-85626-443-2, $39.95) is by Elisabeth Luard, a British food writer. It is a straight forward, basic book, covering all courses, and suitable for the home kitchen. The 200 recipes are arranged by product, with full descriptions and a couple of recipes. Fopr example, quinoa is described as a member of the spinach family, and Luard details how it grows, its appearance and taste, buying and storing, its medicinal use, its culinary use, and some recipes (Ecuadorian quinoa and orange salad, quinoa cookies) -- all of it well-illustrated by photos of the ingredient and the finished prep. Under plantain, the recipes are patacones (fritters) and baked plantain...The book is a good guide, and fits a different niche than the other two South/Latin American books above. It doesn't seem to be so cutting edge, but it does have more product knowledge material. What I don't like about this book: there is an overlong introduction on food in Latin America, and it reads like a touristy article. What I do like about this book: great layout and arrangement, informative and useful. Quality-to-Price rating: 88 11. THE COMPLETE BARTENDER'S GUIDE (Firefly, 2003, 400 pages, ISBN 1-55297-643-2, $19.95) is by Jordan Spence, an Australian lifestyles writer. It has been described as a "cocktail source book including recipes, serving suggestions, tasting notes, brief histories of spirits, essentials for a well-stocked bar, and a directory of the world's top 400 cocktail bars". Wow!! He certainly does pack a lot in, with histories of individual cocktails. The first 250 pages cover some 750 recipes. There are 100 pages on the bars of the world, which is a good idea. Canada gets space for 10, with three in Toronto, four in Montreal, and three in Vancouver. So much for Ottawa.... Throughout the book, Spence inserts tips and advice. What I don't like about this book: well, it is just another recipe book in a crowded bartender field, redeemed by the bar directory. What I do like about this book: it is small, and slightly bendable, sturdy frame, and delivers its promises. Bar directory is nice. Great price too. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 12. GORDON RAMSAY; a chef for all seasons (Quadrille, 2003; distr. by Whitecap, 224 pages, ISBN 1-90384-592-0, $29.95 softcover) is by -- who else -- Gordon Ramsay, chef and proprietor of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, London. His previous two books have won multiple book awards. As well, he has a UK television series. This book was first published as hardbound in 2000; this is the paperback reprint. It is arranged by the season, starting from Spring through Winter. And, like many other "bad boy" chefs, this is a personal cookbook, emphasizing flavour combinations such as the pillows of ricotta gnocchi with peas and feves, or the roast turbot with asparagus veloute, or the sauteed foie gras with peach chutney. There are over 100 recipes here, and each one seems illustrated with excellent photos. What I don't like about this book: a lot of British terminology, which is unavoidable in a British reprint. What I do like about this book: I really like "bad boy chefs", they enliven the profession, they enjoy living on the edge. Just my opinion, but I could be wrong... Quality-to-Price rating: 92 for the bad boys, 87 in general. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW, FOR AUGUST 2003 ============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. THE FRUGAL OENOPHILE'S LEXICON OF WINE TASTING TERMS (Chester Press, Suite 1415, 1011 Upper Middle Road, Oakville L6H 5Z9, 2003, 120 pages, ISBN 0-9685046-5-5, $9.95 paper covers) has been compiled by Richard Best, known as the "Frugal Oenophile". He writes newsletters. conducts tastings, and operates his website www.frugal-wine.com [Declaration of conflict: Richard Best is a Wine Writers' Circle of Canada colleague of mine] Living in Oakville, he has easy access to the GTA and its wealth of wine tastings. This reference book is a basic-basic. It deals with describing some 650 alphabetically arranged terms and definitions specific to the language of wine. Best originally compiled the work to assist himself and his students in identifying winespeak. Most of the terms are in English, as are all of the definitions. Some pronounciation guides are included. At the end of the lexicon there is a quote from Jancis Robinson: "In practice, applying words to wine is a complete free-for-all"...NOW he tells us, at the end of the book....Of course, there are many more words that could have been identified, but this is a good beginning. For example, while he has such terms as "apple", "citrus", "tobacco", "cassis", "berries", he doesn't relate such aromas or tastes to all the grapes themselves. And, of course, he could have added more of the common aromas such as pineapple, peach, apricot, to the grape varietal. Maybe in the next edition. What I don't like about this book: too short, more terms could have been added. What I do like about this book: handy size, large type for older eyes and dark rooms. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 2. FOCACCIA; simple breads from the Italian oven (Chronicle Books; distr. by Raincoast, 2003, 117 pages, ISBN 1-8118-4065-4, $23.95 paper covers) is by the renowned author of Italian cookbooks, Carol Fields. It was originally published in 1994; this is the paperback version. There are a variety of uses for focaccia, such as a rustic bread and as a platform. Fields has four basic doughs plus a biga starter. The rest of the book is divided into savoury and sweet focaccia. There are also some filled and double-layered focaccia (mostly from south Italy), plus the appropriate filling recipes such as mushroom mixtures, onions, cheese, peppers. These can also be used for panini as well. She has some useful notes on focaccia from different regions of Italy, for -- as we all should know -- focaccia is Ligurian (Genoa) in historical origin. It was probably one of the first breads ever baked in the world, a low-rising bread. A typical example from just next door on the French Riviera is the onion and anchovy-based pissaladiere. Here, in Fields' book, the basics are really focaccia bread with salt, pepper, olive oil and ONE of: basil or rosemary or sage or olives or onions or garlic or peppers or tomatoes or pancetta or cheese or potatoes or leeks. Sweet focaccia, meant for dessert, are ones such as cornbread with figs. The sources list (all American) were updated with website listings, but the bibliography remains the same. What I don't like about this book: why was this book relaunched? what's the hook? we all know about focaccia. What I do like about this book: comprehensive guide to a single food product. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 3. EDIBLE FLOWERS; from garden to kitchen: choosing, growing and cooking flowers (Aquamarine-Anness; distr. by National Book Network, 2003, 160 pages, ISBN 1-903141-17-6, $41.50 paper covers) is by Kathy Brown, a gardener chef. The book features her own garden in its photos. An earlier edition was previously published in the UK as "The Edible Flower Garden" (1999). This oversized paperback is meant for the serious chef and gardener, with its material on how to use blossoms, blooms, and petals in the kitchen. Recipes and preps here involve savouries, sweets, and beverage drinks. There are propagating techniques for 25 themed planting schemes, along with the appropriate recipes for eating. There are some really unique tastes here, such as the Rose Petal and Strawberry Punch. She also has an illustrated directory to 40 edible flowers. Typical are hollyhocks, lemon verbena, arugula, fuchsia, sunflower, dill, chives, borage, daisy, chamomile, hops, lavender, primrose, nasturiums, sage. Most can be easily grown in the summer, and in containers (a boon). But like mushrooms, there are unsafe flowers. Best to stick with these forty... Other matertial here includes a history of edible flowers. What I don't like about this book: physically, the book is unwieldy. What I do like about this book: good details on uses in the kitchen, such as crystallizing, making drinks and oils and butters. Quality-to-Price rating: 91 4. THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO COCKTAILS & DRINKS; how to create fantastic drinks using spirits, liqueurs, wine, beer and mixers (Lorenz Books-Anness; distr. by National Book Network, 2003, 256 pages, ISBN 0-7548-1171-9, $44.99) is by Stuart Walton, a UK wine writer. There are about 800 colour photos, one for each of the 600 drinks, plus notes on the "expected" tastes. Walton also gives us the expected data of equipment, glassware, glossary, metric and Imperial measurements, and non-alcoholic drinks as well. Categories include spirits, liqueurs, wine, champagne, fortified wines, beer and cider. What I don't like about this book: the book is oversized, which makes it awkward and heavy. What I do like about this book: the first 100 pages contain some pretty sharp and valid notes about beverages (coffees, wines, ciders, types of spirits). Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 5. OUT TO BRUNCH -- at Mildred Pierce Restaurant (The Cookworks; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 2003, 128 pages, ISBN 0-9731651-0-3, $29.95 paper covers) is by Donna Dooher (co-owner-chef) and Claire Stubbs (a chef at Mildred Pierce for six years). Here are the restaurant's signature and brunch dishes, plus both alcohlic and non-alcoholic beverages. Baked goods include the usual of scones, buttermilk biscuits, crumpets (jazzed up here with bacon and asiago), brioches, muffins, beignets. Twelve egg dishes include french toast, omelettes, beef hash, huevos, coddled eggs. There is, of course, hearty breakfast fare such as shrimp and crab cakes. And lots of sweets (biscotti, shortcakes, pies). Other mains include a roasted pepper and basil strata, made in large muffin tins for individual serving, a chicken and waffle with Dijon cream and chutney, and a grilled focaccia with roasted peppers, eggplant, asiago, and black olive pesto. The photos are superb. Both Imperial and metric measurements are used. What I don't like about this book: the index could be better. The names of dishes are not indexed (eg, The Wally is not under "W", nor are other titles, but the ingredients are indexed). The book is a little too cute with the Mildred Pierce film references. But the DVD did come out in late 2002, so it is possibly to minutely examine the flick. What I do like about this book: good advice to maintain a pantry of jams, spreads, batters, vinauigrette, chuitney, salsa, sauces, and pastry. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 6. NOTHING MORE COMFORTING: Canada's heritage food (Dundurn Press, 2003, 250 pages, ISBN 1-55002-447-7, $26.99) is a compilation of articles written for the magazine "Century Home" under the column title, Country Fare, in the 1982-2000 period. Dorothy Duncan, the well-known curator at Black Creek Pioneer Village and subsequent Canadian food researcher, is the author. Each of these 33 articles has details about one particular food, followed by historical facts and recipes using that food. Subjects include maple syrup, fiddleheads, rhubarb (eight recipes here!), asparagus, corn, Saskatoon berries, McIntosh apples, cranberries, et al. She describes the origins of many foods common to Canadian tables (bread, cheese). In many cases, old and original recipes have been modernized. The book is suitable for kitchen staff to bone up on their basics about food in Canada. What I don't like about this book: there is no index nor no bibliography for further reading. While the pages are small (with large type), this book is a perfect candidate for the paperback trade. This would also shave the price a bit. What I do like about this book: Duncan adds to our food history by making her columns more widely available Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 7. THE COOK'S COMPANION (Barron's, 2003, 234 pages, ISBN 0-7641-5618-7, $23.95 spiralbound) is by Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen. It was originally published in the UK by Quantum Publishers. This is a step-by-step guide to over 250 cooking techniques. For example, with herbs and spices, she gives identification, how to buy and store, drying and freezing, chopping techniques, bouquet garni. Other foods include stocks, sauces, eggs, fish, poultry, meat, vegetables, grains, fruit, pastry, breads and desserts. For fish, there are photos on gutting, trimming, scaling, boning -- even the Canadian Fisheries Dept method of timimg poached fish is here. For wine, there are text and photos on deglazing, reducing and flambeeing, plus making herb vinegars. In the section on making an omelette, the text is accompanied by seven defining and clear photos. What I don't like about this book: well, who is Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen? No notes are given. What I do like about this book: a lot is packed in. Good basic skills are illustrated. Very useful for new cooks and student chefs. Quality-to-Price rating: 92. 8. BEST OF THE BEST; the best recipes from the 25 best cookbooks of the year (Food and Wine Books; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 2003, 287 pages, ISBN 0-916103-83-8, $46.95) is from "Food and Wine Magazine" in the US. This is the latest -- there were five earlier ones, with different books of course. A related title (reviewed by me earlier) is the Food and Wine Annual Cookbook, drawn from the pages of the magazine itself. In this book, the editorial team has selected 100 recipes from 25 cookbooks, and has kitchen-tested them. Some titles: Chef Daniel Boulud, Chez Panisse Fruit, Michael Chiarello's Casual Cooking, Ken Hom's Quickwok, Il Fornaio Pasta Book, Zuni Cafe Cookbook. Selections include Thai food (stir fired beef with chiles and basil), Spanish (flamenco potato salad), vegetarian (eggplant lasagne, chick pea fritters). The selection of recipes definitely empasizes the home cook, with easy to do crab cakes, tuna bagnat, chicken dumplings. Still, a basic level of cooking expertise is expected. The index is by principal ingredient and course -- so you can put together a whole meal from the different cookbooks. Notes for each book include a reproduction of the covers, ordering data, prices, and the number of recipes in the book. What I don't like about this book: WHY were these 25 books chosen? WHY were these 100 recipes used? No explanations are given... What I do like about this book: New this year, to the series, is an author Q and A, plus a bibliography. Quality-to-Price rating: 88 9. A TASTE OF ACADIE (Gooselane, 1991, 190 pages, ISBN 0-86492-109-8, $18.95 paper covers) is by Marielle Cormier-Boudreau and Melvin Gallant. It was originally published in French in 1978. It was based on research and a poll of 400 Maritimers living in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Magdalen Islands. At the time, their average age was 72...most have passed on in the intervening 25 years. The authors came up with 180 recipes of Acadian origin, plus details on the eating habits, cooking methods, fishing and hunting practices, and culinary traditions and culinary cultures. After the Expulsion in 1755 came the Resettlement of 1763 and beyond. In pre-1755, the Acadians were inland farmers, some building dykes along Nova Scotia's Fundy side. Post-1763 they had to become fishermen -- the Brits (also known as the Planters) had taken over the land. Interestingly, cider was a popular beverage pre-1755 but not post-1763: no access to apples on the land.... Until World War II, staples included herring, cod, potatoes, saltpork, and local grains. These have increasingly changed to a more modern, commerical diet like everyone else. Overall, the number of ingredients used in typical Acadian food is kept low; one pot meals have been favoured. Typical dishes include fricot, grosse soupe, rapure, mioche au naveau. Desserts were not common except on holidays: ployes (buckwheat pancakes), seal fat cookies, ciselette (salt pork and mollasses). Lots of historical data and plenty of obscure recipes for such as porcupine and meadowlark! Fish recipes dominate, especially for cod. Pork and breads/pastry are also popular. The index is in both French and English, of course. Both imperial and metric measurements are used. What I don't like about this book: there should have been an attempt to update the status of Acadian food since 1978. What I do like about this book: solid contribution to the history of Canadian cuisine. Quality-to-Price rating: 93. 10. HOW TO COOK EVERYTHING; the basics: simple recipes anyone can cook. (John Wiley, 2003, 210 pages, ISBN 0-7645-6756-X, $29.99) is by Mark Bittman, the author of "How to Cook Everything". He has broken out a whole series, expanded, on his basic book. This is the first of his series. There are 100 core recipes for staples: roast chicken, pork chops, beef stew, roasted potatoes, shrimp cocktail, risotto, grilled salmon, sitr fry, scambled eggs, coffee cake, etc. Plus thirty prep recipes, e.g., chicken stock. There are separate sections on an essential larder, cooking tools, cooking techniques, and a glossary. What I don't like about this book: only Imperial measurements, nothing in metric What I do like about this book: lots of variations and lists of tips, plus careful explanations and handholding for newer cooks. Quality-to-Price rating: 87 11. THE CHEFS'S COMPANION; a culinary dictionary. 3rd edition. (John Wiley, 2003, 355 pages, ISBN 0-471-39842-X, $36.95 paper covers) is by Elizabeth Riely, food writer and food historian (contributions to "Gastronomica"). Over 5000 culinary terms are briefly defined. It is described as "quick access to concise and reliable definitions, pronunciations, correct spelling, accepted usage, and origins of culinary terms". It covers the areas of cooking techniques, food preps, herbs and spices, varieties of food and wine, plus equipment. She tries to cover all the terms that a chef might use with customers and kitchen staff. The range is from "aal" (Gernman for eel) to "zwiebel" (German for onion). There is a pronunciation guide as well as cross-references (e.g., "jack see Monterey Jack"). New to this edition: the Chinese entries have been overhauled, the wine regions have been updated (New World) and there are more grape varieties noted, the new foods include exotic and heirloom plants plus hybrids, the health areas have been updated to include GMOs, BSE -- in all, over 900 new terms. What I don't like about this book: as a paperback, it will show signs of wear and tear soon. What I do like about this book: it can be used as a good training in tool, kept in a dining library of sorts. The bibliography is a collection of books which belong in every foodie's home/kitchen. Quality-to-Price rating: 95. 12. THE OXFORD BOOK OF HEALTH FOODS (Oxford University Press, 2003, 188 pages, ISBN 0-19-850459-4, $ 49.95) is by J.G. Vaughan and P.A. Judd. Vaughan had earlier written for Oxford the New Oxford Book of Food Plants. This book emphasizes the strong connection between medicine and food. It is an overview of "health" foods as found in "health food" stores (arnica, balm, borage, celery seed, comfrey, hops, lavender, ginkgo, ginseng, echinacea, st.john's wort, etc) and the part they play in our diet -- with a scientific basis from studies. Theer are 100 entries. Additionally, it is a good reference for the professional kitchen. The book's Introduction gives a thumbnail sketch of nutrition. For each food's entry, its importance is explained, the history is given, the therapeutic value is stated, and the toxic effects (if any) are described. Each food has a full colour illustration. And the "folklore" claims are evaluated in the light of scientific evidence. For some reason, New Zealand green-lipped mussels are here: they are the only flesh in the book. The entry seems out-of-place. Why not also oysters, or organ meats, or even genitals? What I don't like about this book: it does not go into the issue of eating (or not eating) certain foods with other foods (co-digestion), nor is there any data on hypoglycemia in digestion rates (e.g., barley). What I do like about this book: there is a glossary to explain scientific and medical terms, plus an extensive bibliography. You are what you eat. Quality-to-Price rating: 90 FOOD AND WINE BOOK REVIEWS FOR JULY, 2003 ============================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. PLEASURES OF THE VIETNAMESE TABLE; recipes and reminiscences from Vietnam's best market kitchens, street cafes, and home cooks (HarperCollins, 2001, 242 pages, ISBN 0-06-019258-5, $41.50) is by Mai Pham, owner-chef of Lemon Grass in Sacramento, and a food and cookbook writer. This straightforward book offers both simple and classic fare, along with a selection of menu suggestions. There is an extensive glossary with larder details and more menu planning. The 100 recipes are at the intermediate level of complexity, with the noodle and vegetarian dishes being the easier ones to handle. She begins with the fundamentals and cultural history (mainly, the influence of the French and the Chinese), the essential sauces and condiments. The main recipes begin with -- what else? -- a whole chapter on pho. Along with these 15 recipes there is also a fascinating history of this mid-morning food. She also says that pho is mostly restaurant food, and that people eat it outside of the home. Nevertheless, you can make it at home following her precise directions...There are also recipes for salads and sweets (16), rice noodles (15), poultry and meat (15), seafood (including "southern-style catfish in claypot", which is NOT Southern US, but South Vietnam), plus twelve desserts. Fresh coconut ice cream was a real winner this hot summer....Black and white photos are liberally distributed throughout. Before Thai food in North America, there was Vietnamese (especially in Montreal), and it is now making a comeback based on its elegance. What I don't like about this book: it is heavily anecdotal, but some people like that. There could have been more recipes presented, given the price. What I do like about this book: resources list includes Canadian addresses. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 2. TAMALES (John Wiley, 2002, 178 pages, ISBN 0-7645-2567-0, $29.99 paper covers) seems to have three authors: chefs Mark Miller, Stephen Pyles, and John Sedlar (founder of the Tamale Museum in California), plus "with John Harrisson" on the title page. Who is John Harrisson? His name appears nowhere else. Maybe he rode herd over the chefs: there is no evidence they worked together at all. Separate quotes and separate recipes are ascribed to all three; they have individual entries in the index. Beyond the question of authority, the book is simply splendid -- so let's just take it as it is: a collection of some 100 recipes plus many variations, riffing on a theme of masa packages wrapped in corn husks. Tamales (from the Aztec word "tamalli", wrapped food) are found throughout Latin America under different names (humita, bollo, hallaca). In Mexico, they are the main culinary offering when celebrating the Day of the Dead (Halloween time). Indeed, there are special tamales to mark every holiday and celebration throughout the year. The emphasis in this book is on light fillings, unusual fillings, trendy fillings, and variations. And it succeeds admirably. The book opens up with the basics of dough preparation and base recipes for 25 different stuffings. After this, page references are made to the doughs within the subsequent recipes -- to prevent repetition. There are vegetarian tamales, seafood, poultry, meat, dessert. One prep uses risotto as a stuffing: Pyles' scallops with mango relish and risotto tamales....There are great colour photos of the plated dishes. Only imperial measurements are recorded. What I don't like about this book: some of the recipes are a bit of a stretch, such as "beef wellington tamales with chanterelles and madeira sauce" or "squab tamales with Chateau D'Yguem and rosemary". The latter uses 12 ounces of pricey sauterne for six people. Also, the italic typeface for the quanitity and list of ingredients is small and hard to read. What I do like about this book: there is an indepth index, including a listing pf recipes for each chef. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 3. RICE, RISOTTO, PILAFF AND PAELLA; the ultimate cook's guide with over 160 recipes (Southwater-Anness, 2003; distr. by National Book Network, 256 pages, ISBN 1-84215-790-6, $18.99 US paper covers) is by Christine Ingram, once a food editor at Woman magazine. It was originally published in the UK in 1999. In the introduction there is the "story" of rice and its products, over 35 pages dealing with types, nutrition, and cooking: boiled, risotto, paella, sushi, biryani, fried rice, longtong, pilaff, and rice pudding. This is followed by recipes sorted as to regions: India, Asia, Greece, Middle East, Hibernia, Italy, France, Cajun-Creole, Africa-Caribbean, UK, and North America. These are standard, contemporary and classic dishes, such as chicken biryani, lamb parsi, gumbo, donburi, avgolemono, dolmades, tians. All are mains, with some sides and desserts. Several hundred small photos (about four per recipe) show enough about preparation, and do not take up any real space. Basic skills are all that are required to execute these dishes. Since the main arrangement is by country, you need use the index to locate "desserts" and products/ingredients. What I don't like about this book: type face is too small for these tired eyes of mine, but I did notice that there were NO cross-references from aubergine to eggplant (a minor defect) What I do like about this book: it delivers a lot of value, with both metric and imperial measurements. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 4. NAPA UNCORKED/SONOMA UNCORKED (CD Roam, 2002; distr. by National Book Network, 4 Compact Discs of about 3.5 hours, ISBN 0-9729728-2-X Set, $34.95 US) are written by William Remple, a reporter for the L.A. Times. And they are narrated by David ("Nile Crane") Hyde Pierce. Each valley is also available separately for $19.95 US, and each valley has about 98 minutes air time. These are audio tours, complete with maps to locate the important wineries, and a directory of wineries' addresses and opening hours (plus phone numbers for calling ahead). Covered are such topics as stories about the wineries, the industry, wine tips and quips, and fleshed out with music -- all of it upbeat. The Sonoma set also has a guide to lodgings and restaurants (addresses, phone numbers) by Anthony Dias Blue, well-known wine writer. These are strictly audio CDs: there are no digital images or CD-ROM stuff or tasting notes. What I don't like about this set: the publisher could have added some CD-ROM stuff for the laptop. What I do like about this book: it has wit and humour, and the price is right. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 5. COOKING ITALIAN (Cassell Illus, 2000; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 1-84403-121-7, $22.95 paper covers) is by Valentina Harris, a UK television chef and food writer specializing in Italian food. These 90 recipes are arranged by the calendar, spring through winter; there is an emphasis on fresh and quick. Hence, there are lots of pasta and seafood dishes (shrimp, fish, scallops, squid). The basic recipes are very clear. It it difficult to go wrong with such as asparagus and pea risotto, pasta with caramelized red onions, lamb medallions with prosciutto and mozzarella, pecorino salad, or chestnut and porcini mushroom soup. What I don't like about this book: only two polenta recipes, and the style is a bit too anecdotal for a book this brief. What I do like about this book: most recipes have a full page colour photo photo of the plated dish. Quality-to-Price rating: 86. 6. LE GAVROCHE COOKBOOK (Seven Dials, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 288 pages, ISBN 1-84188-233-X, $33.95 paper covers) is by Michel Roux Jr., who now runs the famous restaurant (founded in 1967 by the Roux Brothers). The book was originally published by Cassell in 2001, the tenth year of Roux Jr.'s tenure. It was the first restaurant of its kind for high end French classical cuisine in London. This is a chef's cookbook for home use, with a seasonal arrangement for important ingredients. There is an excellent chapter on wine selection. Other material here include photos of the team at work in the kitchen, planning tips, table settings, and more photos of the plated dish. Typical preps include vegetables a la grecque served on spoons, pissaladiere, a whole range of tuiles, tagine of red mullet and couscous, a mille-feuille of mussels, lobster cassoulet (a winter dish). But some preps and ingredients seem too precious, such as gulls eggs and monkfish liver, as well as lots of named French ingredients hard to come by outside of France (eg., Bresse chickens, Blackleg chickens). But do try the light pea soup with poached egg (you can skip the added frogs legs) or the stuffed saddle of lamb to die for...And an easy dish: brie stuffed with truffles. What I don't like about this book: only imperial measurements are used. What I do like about this book: there are wine recommendations for most dishes, usually French or Italian wines. Also, this is a good history of the resto, and a good reference book for other restaurants. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 7. MAKING SENSE OF WINE (Running Press, 2003; distr. by HarperCollins, 240 pages, ISBN 0-7624-1579-7, $29.95) is by Matt Kramer, food and wine writer (Wine Spectator, The Oregonian, L.A. Times, et al). It was originally published in 1989; this is the revised and updated edition. The theme of the book remains the same as before: the pursuit of the original (i.e., terroir) in wine. There are two sections: Thinking Wine (what it is), and Drinking Wine (cellarage, glasses, food pairing). The short book covers the basics in an elegant writing style. From this book came the "Making Sense" series (Making sense of Burgundy,... of California). For years, the ordinary person just wanted a cheap bottle of good wine -- that's 99% of us. And the wine industry has been directed to that goal for the past two decades. Since this book was originally published, there have been the most dramatic changes in the wine industry. Kramer wrote a new chapter here -- "Twenty-First Century Fine Wine -- The Consequences of Success". In the pursuit of "cheap but good", Australia has led the way through richer, more powerful, fruit and oak driven accessible wines at affordable prices. Other regions and wineries have swung in line, some in the south of France, others in California, Chile, Argentina, South Africa. We have never had so many "cheap but good" wines in the world. In fact, with more wine importers, wine retailers, and wine writers in the business of uncovering local gems, wine information is everywhere in magazines, newsletters, Internet mailing lists, and web sites. Indeed, all of this has been encouraged by the role of the "validator" (e.g., Parker or anybody who rates wine). Kramer doesn't like this..."The very greatest wines are not so much overpowering as they are seemingly limitless". To him, it is essential to age wines. Yet, there is an obsession in seeking out accessible trophy wines. There is an obsession in North America with wine technology, not wine connoisseurs. Kramer warns of GMOs (e.g., grapes, yeasts), homogeneity of tastes, and the mid-Atlantic wine style. What I don't like about this book: there is no material about corked wines. Also, the book comes to an abrupt end on p214. The extensive bibliography has impressive citations for retrieval of information, but it has not really been updated in terms of the rest of the book. What I do like about this book: he concentrates on the purity of expression for wine. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 8.THE BASQUE KITCHEN; tempting food from the Pyrenees (HarperCollins, 1999, 262 pages, ISBN 0-06-757461-0, $56.50) is by Gerald Hirigoyen, a Basque native and owner of two San Francisco restaurants. He opens with a short political and food history of the region, which straddles France and Spain. Think piperade, Bayonne ham, pintxos (tapas), ttoro (fish soup), mamia (sheep's milk custard), cod, sheep and their cheeses, cider, and marmitako (yellowfin tuna and potato stew with onion and peppers). The soup to sweets book has 144 recipes, at an intermediate level of difficulty. The traditional dishes are all here: gateau basque, poulet basquaise, plus some riffs on New Basque cuisine (mainly his) fusion. Lots of small photos are useful, especially since they don't take up much space. There is a map on the endpapers, and a culinary guide/directory to the Basque country. What I don't like about this book: all the mail order sources are US, and he only uses imperial measurements. What I do like about this book: index also includes basque. The book does well in contributing to a library of regional cuisine. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 9. NEW AMERICAN BARTENDER'S HANDBOOK (Thunder Bay Press, 2003; distr. by Raincoast, 400 pages, ISBN 1-57145-954-5, $22.95) is by Dave Broom. It was originally published by Carlton Books in the UK. 600 preps, with the classics clearly highlighted (bloody mary, daiquiri, manhatan, martini, margarita, etc.) Plus the usual material on serving tips, equipment, glassware, garnishes, and hangover cures. Each recipe indicates a shape of glass to use (there are four recipes to a page). There is also a lot of general material on whisky malts, whiskeys, bourbon, vodka, rum, gin, brandy, tequila, wine, etc. What I don't like about this book: covers the same ground as other, similar recent books. Why should I buy it? Good price, for one thing.... What I do like about this book: it is uptodate, with material about apple martinis. The binding is very sturdy, the book is portable, the illustrations are good. Keep it under your bar... Quality-to-Price rating: 89. 10. PARTY NUTS! 50 recipes for spicy, sweet, savory, and simply sensational nuts that will be the hit of any gathering (Harvard Common Press, 2002; distr. by National Book Network, 96 pages, ISBN 1-55832-243-4, $9.95US) is by Sally Sampson, a senior writer at Cooks Illustrated magazine. And with her husband she runs Sampsons' Nuts in Boston. Nuts are addictive, and they are the perfect nibbles at parties and bars. The general advice here is to buy raw nuts and roast them first. The book's arrangement follow the seasons of savoury (balsamic pecans, pistachios with anise, pesto pinenuts, garlic almonds, curried peanuts), hot (cajun pecans, tabasco almonds, killer peanuts), and sweet (sugared nuts with vanilla or coconut or spices). Basic nut toffee and nut brittle recipes complete the package. She also gives tips on how to incorporate these nuts into salads and pastas. She even takes a stab at what to drink: full-bodied wines, cocktails, beer, and yoghurt-based beverages. What I don't like about this book: too short, I could have used more recipes. What I do like about this book: one can mix and match, and substitute nuts through the recipes. Quality-to-Price rating: 87. 11. THE OXFORD COMPANION TO FOOD (Oxford University Press, 1999, 892 pages, ISBN 0-19-211579-0, $90 hardbound) and THE PENGUIN COMPANION TO FOOD (Penguin Books, 2002, 1073 pages, ISBN 0-14- 051522-4, $36 paper covers) has been edited and prepared by Alan Davidson, food historian (Petit Propos Culinaires), Oxford Food Symposia, fish and seafood writer nonpareil. They are essentially the same book. In 1976, he got a contract to produce this book for both Oxford (hardback) and Penguin (softback). Twenty years later it was ready, and it was worth the wait...It has already won more than a half dozen major awards in food reference categories (the IACP, Versailles, James Beard, Andre Simon, Glenfiddich, et al). The soft version, published a few years later, updates and corrects a few items and omissions. Contributors include Ray Sokolov, John Ayto, Sri Owen, and lots of quotes from John Mariani. But Davidson wrote a lot of it himself over the past 20 years. This is a food reference book, so there are no recipes. It covers the whole world, with equal emphasis about all continents and regions. Featured are aquatic plant foods (dulse, kelp, nori), cereals, fruits, fungi, nuts, condiments, vegetables, birds, dairy, fish, seafood, baked goods, beverages, candy, sauces, cookbook authors, culinary terms, food culture (e.g., afternoon tea, dietary laws, markets, picnic, yin-yang -- even "white trash cooking"), and science (e.g., additives, amino acids, cholesterol, digestion, fibre, oxalic acid). National and regional cuisines have separate, overview entries -- there are 120 of these! Aardvark to zuppa inglese: headwords are alphabetically arranged, with internal cross references for browsing. There are subject indexes and indexes of synonyms. As to which edition to buy, it is up to your wallet. The typeface is about the same size. The hardbound has three columns per page; the paperbound has double columns. The new material is too slight for most of us. $36 vs. $90. The hardbound version will last longer since it is meant for constant use. Libraries will want this version, as will cooking schools or the larger restaurants. Regularly salaried employees can buy the paper version... Quality-to-Price rating: 99. 12. A COOK'S GUIDE TO GRAINS; delicious recipes, culinary advice and nutritional facts (Common Octopus, 2002; distr. by McArthur & Co., 224 pages, ISBN 1840910739, $34.95) is by Jenni Muir, a UK food writer. Covered are regular grains (wheat, oats, barley, rye) plus new world entries (quinoa, amaranth) and close relatives such as millet, wild rice, corn. The assumption is that we all need six servings of grains a day for complex carbos and fibre. Here are 100 recipes, international in scope, and employing basic skills -- to aid us in that quest...The first part looks at each grain's history, farming, cooking uses, sprouting, nutrition -- in great detail. The second part has the recipes, from breakfast to late night snacks. Categories also include pancakes, breads, soups and salads and sides, pasta, polenta, risottos, stews, stuffings, desserts. The work concludes with a thorough index and a passable bibliography. What I don't like about this book: it uses imperial VOLUME measurements but metric WEIGHT measurements (never mix, never worry). Also, the typeface is a bit on the small side. What I do like about this book: there are copious "cook's notes" of advice with each recipe, and endless variations to recipes, based on what you have in the pantry. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 13. A TALE OF TWO VALLEYS; wine, wealth, and the battle for the good life in Napa and Sonoma. (Broadway Books, 2003, 219 pages, ISBN 0-7679-0703-5, $35.95) is by Alan Deutschman, a freelance writer. To understand what the book is about, take a look at some of the TEN subject headings assigned by the Library of Congress: rural conditions, social life and customs, wine industry, wealth, social conflict. He opens with a hit of schadenfreude: the newcomers in Sonoma who pulled up crops to replace them with grapes were getting shafted by the glassy-winged sharpshooter insect which killed all vines in its path. The oldtimers were secretly pleased that the new rich guys were losing thir shirts....maybe they'll leave? Serves 'em right! The books's tone is one of a classic agricultural fight of preservation vs. exploitation, the small-town community vs. the money culture (more in Sonoma than in Napa). And even in the relationships between Napa (characterized as Silicon Valley millionaires, living closer to San Francisco than they could in Sonoma) and Sonoma (characterized as rustic agarian). Is this Good vs. Evil? It seems that way, if you read Deutschman carefully. He took off from work in the Spring of 2000, and sponged off some millionaires he knew from covering them as part of his work as a magazine journalist. He went up and down Napa and Sonoma, talked with a number of environmental activists, winemakers, winery owners, rich people, and industry personnel. The wineries included Mondavi, Chateau Potelle, Sawyer Cellars, Far Niente, Stag's Leap, Screaming Eagle, Clos du Val, Bundschu, plus the French Laundry restaurant and the Napa Valley Wine Auction. What to make of this? At page 23, "Many of the new-money invaders liked how Sonoma hadn't been overrun by more of their kind the way that Napa had. While some of the new new-money people wanted into the old new-money club in the Napa Valley, this different breed of new new money wanted the appearance of old old money. They liked how Sonoma felt more authentically "country" than Napa..." Wine plays a big part in this anecdotal account of what Deutschman saw and what happened to him. Overall (based on what this author tells us), both valleys appear to be incredibly insular, each in its own way. If you are at home, you might want to read this book as you listen to the audio tour noted above, sipping a Napa/Sonoma red or white wine. True multi-tasking. What I don't like about this book: too short, no sourcing, no index of names or themes. What I do like about this book: engaging writing style (magazine type), with a microcultural approach. Quality-to-Price rating: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JUNE, 2003 ============================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. THE BACCHUS WINE NOTEBOOK (Vehicule Press, 2002, 72 pages, ISBN 1-55065=164-1, $7.95 spiralbound) is by Pierre Veronneau, from his "Le carnet vin". This is a templated wine log (a record of the wines you may have enjoyed -- or want to avoid) with tasting sheets (a record of your impressions, whether you liked the wine or not). You can always photocopy additional pages and expand the book on your own. As it is, this is a perfect little host gift or, at Christmas, a stocking stuffer. At the bottom of each tasting sheet, there is a throwaway nugget, such as the story of Dom Perignon, or a wine quote, or the derivation of the word "gamay"...Highly recommended for the price. And maybe corporate bulk purchases could be possible at a reduced price... What I don't like about this book: too short, could easily be a third larger at this pricepoint. What I do like about this book: spiral bound for ease of writing, a glossary of wine terms at the back, and a shortlist of websites. Quality-to-Price rating: 89 2. WINE MADE EASY SERIES; complete guides to the grape and the wines it produces. Cabernet Sauvignon (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. McArthur & Co., 64 pages, ISBN 1-8400-686-2, $15.95) is by Dave Brown. Chardonnay (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. McArthur & Co., 64 pages, ISBN 1-8400-685-4, $15.95) is by Dave Brown. Merlot (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. McArthur & Co., 64 pages, ISBN 1-8400-688-9, $15.95) is by Susy Atkins. Sauvignon Blanc (Mitchell Beazley, 2003; distr. McArthur & Co., 64 pages, ISBN 1-8400-687-0, $15.95) is by Susy Atkins. These are standardized practical guides by award-winning UK authors. They do a first-rate job of presenting the basics: each of these books contains about 10,000 words and terrific illustrations. Content begins with material on what the grape looks like (skin, pulp, leaf, bunch), moving on to how it grows (soils, climates) and where it began. Sections also deal with how that grape is treated by winemakers, including the art of blends (cab-merlots, supertuscans, semillon- sauvignon blanc combos) and future developments. Then the authors take the reader through a country-by-country swing (France, Italy, Spain, rest of Europe, the New World) with top producers and regions being highlighted, in a non-commercial sense. Material on buying, storing and serving complete each book, with data on quality-price ratios, other similar grape varieties to try, and a far-too-short food pairing page. The emphasis is always on the various styles of the wine, and its approachability. What I don't like about these books: I object to the use of the word "complete" in describing the "guide" aspect in each book's title, when it is not complete -- it is laughable to say that, even downright embarrassing. That being so, each book is also priced too high. But I guess for the gift market the books had to be hardbound. What I do like about these books: thumbnail (hah, a better word than "complete") guides, cover the basics, with effective indexes. Also, there is a definite audience of drinkers who prize wine from one or two grape varieties to the exclusion of any others...they may not want a lot of wine information about the rest of the vinous world. I am thinking of those Merlot and Chardonnay drinkers who ONLY consume wines made from those grapes. Quality-to-Price rating: 87 3. TIDE'S TABLE; Maritime cooking from Inn on the Cove (Goose Lane, 1996, 267 pages, ISBN 0-86492-208-6, $19.95 paper) and OUTDOOR COOKING FROM TIDE'S TABLE (Goose Lane, 2000, 256 pages, ISBN 0-86492-296-5, $19.95 paper) are by Ross and Willa Mavis, owners of the Inn on the Cove -- near Saint John, NB -- and TV food hosts. The first book here has some 200 recipes using mostly local produce of New Brunswick (e.g., no mangoes or curries here) for family style cooking. Straightforward: breakfasts (eggs in kilts,i.e. sausage meat), quickbreads, pickles, jams, butters, oils, appetizers, soups (dulse soup, or fiddleheads and cream soup), salads, lots of desserts -- all solid comfort foods, served at the Inn. The second book of 180 recipes changes tone, moving on to BBQ, with a huge chapter on marinades and rubs. Some highlights include the good haddock recipes (e.g. Maritime "burgers"), some 13 lamb preps (though lamb is always a hard sell), and a spitted pig roast -- but no porchetta. Lots of the usual beef and burgers and chicken and pork (ribs, ham, sausages). The ideas for quail here are useful, but quail is still tough to BBQ. It becomes tough; you need to be constantly vigilant and baste like mad with a marinade. What I don't like about these books: despite making use of local items, the books are not particularly "regional" What I do like about these books: both Imperial and metric measurements are given, and the BBQ book has charts for both meats and fish. Quality-to-Price rating: 87. 4. LEGENDARY COCKTAILS (New Holland, 2002; distr. Canada Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84330-374-4, $19.95 paper) is by David Biggs, a South African wine writer. Ah, nothing like the tried and true -- here are 140 cocktails, all the classics plus newer ones like shooters. Each drink recipe has anecdotes about its origins. Cocktails peaked during the Prohibition; they wre meant to cover up the taste of rotgut. Now, they are meant to augment the blandness of vodka or the various "light" tasting ryes, scotches, rums, gins, etc. Other material, easily found elsewhere, includes text on stock, inventory, equipment, garnishes, hangover cures. There is also a brief non-alcoholic section for designated drivers. But any cocktail can be converted to an alcohol-free potion, especially the vodka or brandy ones. The trick is actually in the naming. "Sex on the Beach", made with vodka, now becomes non-alcoholic under its name "Safe Sex on the Beach". Covered are the basic drinks, which is all most customers want: sidecar, gin fizz, singapore sling, tom collins, grasshopper, gimlet, bloody mary, stinger, daiquiri, grog, zombie, egg nog, between the sheets, tom and jerry, martini, harvey wallbanger, pink gin, white russian, black velvet, old fashioned, manhattan, boilermaker, irish coffee, screwdriver, bellini, sangria, kir royale, buck's fizz, tequila sunrise, margarita. Surprisingly, there are no recipes for the godfather nor for apple sour martini. What I don't like about this book: good (but superfluous) still photos from movies of the 1920s and 1930s, showing name brand actors with cocktails in their hand -- outofplace here, and they take away space from additional recipes. What I do like about this book: no clutter here, just the facts ma'm...useful for the basics, a small enough book to keep under your restaurant's bar. Quality-to-Price rating: 87. 5. SPOON FOOD & WINE (Ici La Press, 2002; distr. Canada Manda Group, 216 pages, ISBN 1-931605-11-4, $62) is by Alain Ducasse, owner of the Spoon chain of restos in Mauritius, Tokyo, Paris, and London. It was first published in France by Editions Noesis in 2001. Here are 200 cutting edge and trendy recipes such as vegetable tartare or salad of flowers. The text of the instructions and the ideas he presents are really interesting, and the photographs of the plated dish are gorgeous...BUT THE BOOK IS VERY HARD TO READ: you get light gray typeface on white background, or white on gray, or -- EVEN WORSE -- gray on gray!! And some of the photos are screened, so you have a lot of busy activity on each page. The layout of the type and the photos does not help either; there is too much whimsy. There are only two advantages to this format. One, you are forced to read the recipe very, very carefully, and maybe even write it out (this serves as postive reinforcement). Two, the publisher has made it almost impossible to make clean photocopies, thus protecting the intellectual property. However, since you have to write out the recipes anyway, then you might as well make copies for your dozen or so friends...I spent a lot of time with this book, trying to read the recipes; I could only get through four at a time. With a normal layout, Ducasse has a damn good book, full of interesting ideas: minestrone of crab and nori, pumpkin tofu with scallop topping, lobsters baked in banana leaves, lacquered pork spare ribs, carmelized apple mille-feuille caramel parfait, chocolate pizza (brioche dough). Each dish has suggested accompaniment (sides, dressings, sauces, compotes, relishes, pickles: all with recipes) and wines (always one from France or Europe, and one from the New World). What I don't like about this book: if you stuck with me this far, I hated the layout. Most of the non-food photos were meaningless, especially the ones of women's legs. These illustrations just got in the way, with too much whimsy. What I do like about this book: well, the recipes are innovative, once you force yourself to read them. Ducasse has been done a disservice. I certainly hope that this was not his idea...I have not seen the original French book; hopefully, it's layout was different. Quality-to-Price rating: unrated. Intellectually, probably a 90. Servicewise, maybe 40. Average? You do the math... 6. CHILLI TO VANILLA; Fauchon the recipes (Hachette Illustrated, 2003; distr. McArthur & Co., 176 pages, ISBN 1-84430-004-8, $50) is by Marie Abadie, a French food writer. It was originally published in France in 2001 by Editions du Chene-Hachette Livre. These sixty recipes come from the legendary Fauchon in Paris, where 50 chefs work. The book includes a brief history of the firm, along with historical photos. There is a full range here, from appetizers to vegetables to meats to desserts. Each dish is accompanied by Spice Notes, to explain the complexity of aromas and flavours. Most dishes are illustrated with full page photographs, and there are both Imperial and metric measurements. As well, the instructions are clear, with prep time indicated upfront, and some additional tips on cooking. Typical foods include Five Berry Crackers (housemade crackers with four kinds of pepper and allspice), goat cheese and rhubarb tarts with szechuan pepper, tuna steaks with mustard and fennel, chicken tajine with lemon spices, carmelized lamb with peppercorns, bulgur wheat with dried fruit and the spice mixture ras-el-hanout, berry sabayon. Along the way there are detailed explanations and illustrations for use of peppercorns, anise-scented seeds (caraway, celery, coriander, cumin), chillis, vanilla, and customized blends. What I don't like about this book: like many cookbooks originally published in France, there is a recipe index by page -- which is almost useless. Also, the book is a bit short at 60 recipes. 75 could have been tucked in by reusing the dozen pages which had miscellaneous photos... What I do like about this book: the Spice Notes were effective, and they were written as if they were wine notes (that resonated with me). And there is a back door to the ingredient index: the book has an alphabetical spice index. Quality-to-Price rating: 87. 7. THE APPETIZER ATLAS; a world of small bites (John Wiley & Sons, 2003, 624 pages, ISBN 0-471-41102-7, $67.95) is by Arthur L. Meyer and Jon M. Vann, both long time chefs, food writers and educators. This reference tool has been written for professional chefs and caterers. All of the items are appropriate or adapatable for "tasting menus" since their definition of appetizer simply mean snacks, starters, street food, or light meals (small portions). You can easily mix or match for a full meal. The scope is, of course, international. But this is not an "atlas", for (despite a mention in the text), there are no maps! Somebody had made a decision, probably for economic reasons, to cancel the maps -- but didn't correct the text. Here are 400 recipes from 96 countries, divided by 28 regions. Each region is given a separate chapter with ingredients, produce, cooking methods, and techniques that are common to the region. There is a brief but informative history of food for each area. Other reference matter include lists and definitions of ingredients (about 30 pages), bibliographies for further reading, and a long exhaustive index. Cooking styles of the world are emphasized; thus, substitutions are not encouraged. And having read the book thoroughly, I can safely conclude that "religion" and the availability of "spices" play the top leading roles in determining what is eaten and how. The regions begin with North America, although Canada is merged with the United States by area (Nova Scotia smoked salmon is amongst New England). This is followed by Mexico, Caribbean, South America, Oceania, South Asia, Japan and China, South East Asia, India, Middle East, Africa, Mediterranean, Europe, UK. The structure for each prep: there is an "advance preparation" section in most cases, historical information about each dish, the use of Imperial and metric measurements, the name of the dish in both English and in the original language (and both are indexed). There are lots of different kinds of carbohydrates, finger food, skewered food, turnovers, dumplings, stuffed dishes, fish cakes, shrimp dishes, chicken wings. Typical items include crab cakes, chiles en nogada, empanadas, jerk ribs, chicharron, codfish, pupusas, ceviche, quinoa coquettes, rumaki, aku poke, lomi lomi, lamb chop in pastry purse, wild rice griddle cakes, sambal goreng, b'stilla, gravlax, terrines and pates, and gambas al ajillo. What I don't like about this book: it was very heavy on flesh, hardly any vegetables. And too many kinds of meatballs. What I do like about this book: a thorough and comprehensive reference work, a good addition to your chef's shelf or catering/college library. It was easy to read and to use. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. 8. IN A ROMAN KITCHEN; timeless recipes from the Eternal City (John Wiley & Sons, 2003, 308 pages, ISBN 0-471-221473, $52.95) is by Jo Bettoja, who owned a cooking school in Rome for a decade. She's the author of two previous Italian cookbooks (one being "Southern Italian Cooking") and contributes recipes to Food and Wine magazine. Roman cooking means city specialties such as artichokes, fava beans, peas, mozzarella, pandorato bread, panzanella, and pasta alla carbonara. Bettoja covers the markets, proper ingredients, and the classic recipes (her sources are home cooks and old cookbooks). Her 200 recipes cover life in Rome, where pasta is not "al dente" but "in piedi" (=standing up, VERY al dente), and food from the Jewish ghetto. Along the way she distributes quotes and aphorisms, as well as half-tone photos of the city. Simple, almost rustic food is stressed (e.g., battuto, a concentrated sauce of vegetables, tomato, and pork products, made to add flavour to most preps). All courses are covered, with a huge chunk devoted to pasta and a separate chapter for "fritto misto" (various batters and fillings). While she covers all courses, she does mention that soups are not popular among Romans. Most recipes are accompanied by historical notes, descriptions of ingredients and their general use, and wine recommendations. Some local dishes include pasta with wild hops, a couple of timballos (one with vegetables), farricello (soup with ferro), anchovy pie, porchetta, saltimbocca, rabbit, frittata, lavignarola (artichokes, fava beans, and peas), chestnuts, puntarelle. Desserts are mainly gelato and semifreddo. What I don't like about this book: the price seems high for a book with few plated illustrations. Certainly a paperback (not yet released) may be better value. What I do like about this book: ingredients are listed in both Imperial and metric measurements. There is also a thorough and comprehensive index by both ingredient and dish name, in both English and Italian. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 9. CHEAP THRILLS TORONTO; great Toronto meals for under $15 (Vehicule Press, 2002, 118 pages, ISBN 1-55065-154-4, $9.95 paper covers) and CHEAP THRILLS MONTREAL; great Montreal meals for under $15, 4th ed. (Vehicule Press, 2002, 117 pages, ISBN 1-55065-165-X, $9.95 paper covers) and CHEAP THRILLS NEW YORK; great New York meals for under $15 (Vehicule Press, 2002, 118 pages, ISBN 1-55065-136-6, $9.95 paper covers) are all put together by Nancy Marrelli and Simon Dardick, with lots of help from named contributors. The Toronto and Montreal books cover 90 restos; the New York book details 95. The rules: complete dinners (not lunches) for under $15, before taxes, tip, and beverage, and the food has to be good. The level used to be $10 in 1996. Thus, there are lots of ethnic and oriental places, quality pub grub, and pizza/ sandwiches. For example, under "Schwartz's" in Montreal, we get an address, bus route and stop, phone number, hours of operation, a listing of typical dishes (e.g., smoked meat sandwich, fries and soda for $7.40; rib steak and fixings for $12.95), and a description of the ambience. Three dozen or so "classic" restos are identified as such, for each book. For more details on the books and updates, check out What I don't like about these books: well, in general, these guide books go out of date quickly. I'd like more detail on how long each restaurant has been in business, and maybe some material on compromises which have to be made in order to keep prices down. Maybe the website can tell us some further updates. What I do like about this book: there is a specialty index and a neighbourhood index, plus a listing of websites. Quality-to-Price rating: 92 10. CHANGEONE; the breakthrough 12-week eating plan (Reader's Digest, 2003, 319 pages, ISBN 0-7621-0419-8, $39.95) is by John Hastings, and others. The basic premise of this book is behaviour modification, like giving up smoking. But you do it one step at a time. "You just have to change one eating habit at a time, starting in week 1". This makes sense, obviously...The book emphasizes portion control with behaviour modification. You can continue to eat all the foods that you do eat, but less of them. So in week one, you'll change your breakfasts and your approach to them. Weeks two, three and four, you'll change your other meals. Week five, you'll change how you eat out, checking ethnic menus for food selection. Week six, you'll change your approach to weekends and holidays. Week seven, you'll clear out your kitchen and re-organize it. Week eight, you'll pause for goal setting and motivation. Week nine concentrates on stress reduction, while week ten conjures up that ugly word "exercise". In week 11, there is a medical checkup and weigh in, while week 12 is maintenance and diagnostics. Or, I say you can fast track your way through in 9 or 10 weeks by skipping weeks 8, 9, and 12...One thing you have to do is keep a "food diary". And refer to it all the time.... Throughout the book there are sidebar tips and quizzes to measure your progress, such as advice for ordering food. There are recipes and meal plans, as well as substitution lists arranged in columns (such as, for eating food, "Instead of..." then "Try..."). All the recipes are at the beginner level. Other resources here include an Eight Week Fitness program (more exercises), more recipes, shopping guide and menu planner. The inescapable conclusion: to lose weight and keep it off, you are going to have change your eating behaviour and exercise more. For more details and updates/ recipes, try the website What I don't like about this book: the pages are very busy, with colour and strewn tips, it looks messy. Also, there are various freeware and shareware programs available that are combined nutrition and exercise planners. I think Reader's Digest could have incorporated some of these into an attached CD-ROM. What I do like about this book: good advice (but will you take it?) and good indexing. Quality-to-Price rating: 88. 11. BECOMING VEGETARIAN; the complete guide to adopting a healthy vegetarian diet (John Wiley & Sons, 2003, 454 pages, ISBN 0-470-83253-3, $26.99 paper) is by Vesanto Melina and Brenda Davis, both Registered Dieticians and teachers. This is a revised and enlarged edition; the first edition has sold 100,000 copies since it was initially published in 1994. This is a very authoritative guide to vegetarian and vegan nutrition information. It includes a food guide for nutrition and meal planning, beginner level recipes, scientific data, tips for weight control. Plus lots of advice on "how to be a vegetarian in a non- vegetarian world". The key here is simply: "becoming vegetarian softens our ecological footprint", to which I'd add "dramatically". Vegetarian and vegan foods have been the fastest growing categories in the grocery trade, as people try to control heart disease, cancer, and diabetes. Recent surveys show that up to 40% of all vegetarians (no flesh) are also vegans (no dairy, no eggs). This has some impact on restaurant menus and dishes. To be on the safe side, if you offer vegetarian entrees, then try for vegan-style food on the plate. New to this updated edition are more scientific data in support of vegetarianism, more on whole grains, fruits and vegetables, more on weight management. And it is relatively easy to be healthy these days, by following a few rules: shun all processed foods (even vegetarian ones), reduce all sugars and fats, take the necessary supplements (this will vary from person to person), always eat organic. Still, there are lots of topics not very well- covered, if at all. All of these topics are discussed in the alternative health magazines and websites, so they are not "flakey". For example, there should have been more on near-vegetarians (the largest of the categories of eating patterns). We needed more on finding vegetarian food for lunch at work and while dining out. We also needed a discussion on the relationship between fruit and vegetables, and why it is preferable not to eat both together. The book needed to explore the impact of organic meats for all the complaints about hormone injections disappear when the meat is "organic", the needs of men versus women is only alluded to, the controversy over soy and soy products and soy substitutions particularly "organic soy". There is material on absorption rates for vitamins and minerals, plus the fact that combinations of foods will affect these same absorption rates, but they needed their own separate chapter or they needed to be brought out more in the index. What I don't like about this book: the recipes are not indexed by ingredient. Also, there are graphic errors in the Body Mass Index (some shadings are reversed) -- this scared the hell out of me, at first: I thought I was doomed. What I do like about this book: lots of website sources. The book is a good reference work. Quality-to-Price rating: 90. WINE AND FOOD BOOK REVIEWS FOR MAY, 2003 ========================================== by Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. CLASSIC COOLING COCKTAILS (Sterling Punblishing; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 2003, 176 pages, ISBN 1-4027-0590-5, $19.95 paper covers) is by Salvatore Calabrese, well-known bar manager in the UK, and author of several other cocktail books and articles. This is a reissue. It was originally published in hard covers in 2001 as CLASSIC SUMMER COCKTAILS. So here are about 100 cocktails plus variations and some originals. There are also 15 non- alcoholic recipes. Everything here is light and breezy and cool, emphasizing clear spirits, fruit juices, decorations and garnishes. He also uses plenty of white wines and sparklers. For all of this, the blender is the most important barware. Techniques are explained, such as how to frost glasses and the best ways to deal with ice. The summer drink terms to emphasize on your drinks menu include such "buttons" as collins, cooler, fizz, julep, punch, rickey, sling, and mojito. There are plenty of pictures of presentations and techniques. There is more than enough here for any patio party, either at home or in a commerical bar: just check out the index.... What I don't like about this book: there is too much background data, which can be found elsewhere...it seems to weight down the book: this is supposed to be a light primer. What I do like about this book: there are illustrations of older advertisements QPR Rating: 88. 2. THE ALL AMERICAN CHEESE AND WINE BOOK; pairing, profiles and recipes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang,; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 2003, 335 pages, ISBN 1-58479-124-1, $60) is by Laura Werlin, a food writer specializing in cheese. She won an IACP award for her earlier "The New American Cheeses". This is her follow-up book. I must declare a minor conflict-of-interest: my nephew is owner of Bingham Hill Cheese, one of the companies profiled (and on the jacket). Werlin gives an overview of both cheese and wine in the USA. There are chapters on the seven basic cheese styles, how cheese is made, what to look for in taste. There is also similar, appropriate material for wines. Then the two come together in sections she has written on pairing cheese with wine, and vice versa -- including good combination charts for the pairs. The same wine rules apply to cheese as with regular food, such as the fruitier-styled wines or dessert wines with most cheese, milder cheeses with older reds, sparkling wines with blue or creamy or salty cheeses. Material includes cow, sheep, and goat cheeses...There are discussions about issues, such as the controversies surrounding raw milk cheeses. The next part of the book is a series of profiles with fifty US cheesemakers and winemakers. For wines, there are such well-known family- run businesses as the Finger Lakes' Anthony Road or Hunt Country, New Mexico's Gruet, and Washington State's Hedges. There are anecdotes about how they got started, what they sell, awards, plus names and addresses, phone numbers, whether open for visits, and websites. The artisanal American Cheese Society has over 150 cheesemaker members, and most do a good business by mail order. Werlin has many more names and addresses in a separate section, along with accessible websites to check out. The third part of the book, distributed throughout each chapter, is a collection of 55 recipes, mostly of the "entertaining" variety, featuring appetizers, pizzas, picnics, desserts, and cheese platters. Some of the recipes were developed from the cheesemakers, and there are also wine recommendations for each recipe. Unfortunately for us in Canada, many of the wines and cheeses are not imported here... What I don't like about this book: there is a lot of leading and white space -- the book could have been smaller, and hence cheaper... What I do like about this book: there is a nifty glossary of terms, and the listings include hundreds of cheese and winemakers. QPR Rating: 94 in USA; 87 in Canada. 3. THE BAKER'S MANUAL; 150 master formulas for baking, 5th edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2003, 324 pages, ISBN 0-471-40525-6, $44.95 paper covers) is by Joseph Amendola and Nicole Rees. This fifth edition is mainly a book of formulas and ratios for the base which creates other baked goods. Here are 200 tested interpretations of the classics, for breads, pastries, custards, etc. The thorough updating and revision between editions reflects the North American changes in lifestyle and eating patterns. For example, there are lots of new items on artisan breadmaking included in this edition. The book has a dual-recipe format: ingredients for a single batch are written by volume (usually with a five US quart or litre capacity), and the larger batch by weight (scale). The larger batch is usually a 20 US quart or 20 litre capacity. And, of course, there are variances when doing breads and using eggs -- breads are ratio formulas. There is also plenty of descriptions of yeasts, flours, and sugars. The first seventy pages cover breads of all types, followed by sections on cakes, pies, cookies, frostings, and fillings. Nothing really exciting in the recipes, since there are no new creations nor newly devised innovative techniques -- just the safe and secure. But then this is a professional book for bakers and pastry chefs, and a textbook for students. There is a glossary for the desserts, some material on high altitude baking, a bibliography, and an index. What I don't like about this book: a bit pricey for a paperback. Also, the typeface is very light. What I do like about this book: there is an excellent "faults" chart, lots of diagrams to show techniques or forms. QPR Rating: 93. 4. ASIAN NOODLES AND SNACKS (Periplus Editions HK; distr.Raincoast, 2003, 128 pages, ISBN 0-7946-0125-1, $14.95 spiral bound) has recipes from seven people, with a whole bunch more involved in food styling and photography; it is part of the "Learn to Cook" series. This is a collection of 81 recipes plus your own variations, as explained, of light meals and snack foods from Asia (Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, India, Vietnam). All are home style. There are separate chapters for wraps and rolls, fritters and patties, grilled and skewered (kebabs, satays), and noodles (soups, sauces, stirfries). Aromatic goodies include fragrant noodles with chili and sesame sauce, Vietnamese pork and shrimp crepe, Balinese chicken parcels, Malaysian curry puffs... There is a pantry list which is followed by sauces, dips, and chutnies for accompanying condiments. This is a good book for restauranteurs who want some easy to prepare Asian food on their menu. What I don't like about this book: the index is just a list of recipes, with no mention (or further indexing) of ingredients. Also, there is a mixture of metric and Imperial measurements in the recipes. What I do like about this book: spiral bound, lies flat. The mail order sources only have websites. QPR Rating: 85. 5. FOOD & WINE ANNUAL COOKBOOK; an entire year of recipes 2003 (Food & Wine Books Amex; distr. by Canadian Manda Group, 2003, 406 pages, ISBN 0-916103-82-X, ISSN 1097-1564, $46.95) comes from "Food & Wine" magazine, and the recipes are actually from 2002's contents (using the principle of forward dating employed by almanacs). In 2002, the magazine published more "quick" recipes and more dessert recipes than ever before...does that tell us something? All topics and courses are covered. Each of the 600 recipes is sourced as to author, with a short biography at the back of the book for each person. Contributors are noted chefs, freelancers, staff, and professional recipe developers, such as Madhur Jaffrey and Wolfgang Puck. There are 69 fish preparations, including -- of all things -- three cockle recipes. Beverages are also included, as well as a few basic recipes to round out the completeness of the book. There are also twelve special menus with page references and wine recommendations. Sections on wine and entertaining are useful. The level of sophistication achieves Gourmet Magazine status, with such examples as "sweet potato gnocchi with apple cider sauce" or "mushroom pomponnettes". There also appears to be lots of comfort food and traditional ideas. All preparations are coded as to "fast", and "healthy", and "make ahead". What I don't like about this book: tends to wave the US flag What I do like about this book: extensive, really good index, use of two colours. QPR Rating: 89. 6. THE WINES AND VINEYARDS OF PORTUGAL (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 354 pages, ISBN 1-84000-733-8, $39.95 paper covers) is by Richard Mayson, a well-known British wine writer specializing in Portuguese wines (he's also married to one of the Blandys). There have been many, many significant changes in the previous ten years -- and he covers them all -- including cork problems. The latter makes the country a bit self-defensive...The scope of the book includes table wines, roses, Ports, Madeiras, and other fortifieds. His comments on vineyards and grape varieties (over 120 of them, all here) include a rating on a scale of five stars, which is a bit unusual. The conservative industry was pulled along by Portugal's EU membership in 1986. Over the years, there has been a massive investment in both upgrading wineries and waiting six years for new vineyards to start producing. The book's arrangement is by broad geographic area: the Atlantic region (Bairrada, Estremadura), the Mountain region (Dao, Douro), the Plains (Setubal, Alentejo), and the Islands (Madeira). Plus chapters on rose (just about all of it is exported), sparklers, and cork. Each section has notes on subregions and on producers. There are no tasting notes, but Mayson does say things such as this, about Caves Alianca: "under the guidance of Michel Rolland the emphasis is becoming increasingly French". There are 300,000 growers and over 100 co-operatives, creating what Mayson says is "anarchy in the vineyards". But cult wines are developing, such as those by rebels including Luis Pato. There is still a lot of work to be done in Portugal, to analyze terroir and to get site-specific grapes up and running. Even the use of "new" oak barrels is relatively new, as well as the concept of "small" oak barrels. Other changes flowing from the EU membership involved reducing "garrafeiras" in the hierarchy of permissible designations. Mayson covers the 2002 vintage, and comments on the up and coming areas for the future (Dao, Douro, Alenquer, Ribatejo, Alentejo). His style is text-book in tone, and the book is useful for students and interested consumers. It is a good reference work, with line maps, bibliography, index. What I don't like about this book: the black and white illustrations are not particularly useful, and there is not even one illustrated wine label. What I do like about this book: there is a long table of officially approved grape varieties and their synonyms. The book also appears to be thorough in its coverage. QPR Rating: 96. 7. BRUNELLO TO ZIBIBBO; the wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 493 pages, ISBN 1-84000-790-7, $39.95 paper covers) is by Nicolas Belfrage. It was originally published in 2001 by Faber and Faber. Here it has been slightly updated. This is a companion volume to his "Barolo to Valpolicella; the wines of Northern Italy", published in 1999 by Faber. He is a wine writer specializing in Italian wines, now living in Tuscany. There are 150 pages on Tuscany alone. He discusses IGTs in all sections, including the "supertuscans", of course. But he does not go into any discussion of the "castello" movement (emulating Bordeaux chateaux, producing Cbianti Classico Riserva level wine but dropping the word "Riserva" from the label, preferring -- and emphasizing -- the word "Castello" in their branding). This all began in 1998, and now has adherents in Castello di Ama, Castello di Fonterutoli, Castello di Brolio, Castello di Cacchiano. There is also good space devoted to Puglia and the islands. Here, there have been many changes in Primitivo production and more use of stainless steel to preserve freshness. Throughout, there are discussions on blends and IGTs, the use of French grape varieties in Italy (Cabernet family, Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Syrah). Belfrage gives us many names and phone numbers, as well as line drawing maps. He deals with Italian wine laws, glossary to terms, bibliography, and index. He even has a key to pronunciation, stating "once you get the sound, somehow the flavours too fall into sharper focus". This is a frank and compelling book, well-written. What I don't like about this book: badly reproduced black and white wine labels. What I do like about this book: his critiques of DOC/DOCG/IGT designations for each area. QPR Rating: 90 (higher if you don't have the Faber book) 8. PROFESSIONAL COOKING FOR CANADIAN CHEFS, fifth edition (John Wiley and Sons, 2003, 960 pages, ISBN 0-471-21681-X, $94.95) is by Wayne Gisslen. This latest edition also includes a CD-ROM and the ChefTec software. Available separately are a variety of study guides and instructor manuals. This is a textbook meant for Canadian cooking courses at community colleges and chef schools. There are five major Canadian contributors, and more Canadians as "reviewers". As a textbook, it has more stuff on Canadian grading and inspection of meat products, dairy, and eggs. There is new and additional information on game birds such as emu and ostrich, and game meats. The section on sausages and pates have also been built up, as well as "garde manger". Gisslen gives us solid details on the food service industry in Canada, as well as general principles of sanitation and cooking. And there are also a further 100 new recipes from Le Cordon Bleu, specifically highlighted in the recipe sections with a blue tinge. Overall, there are about 1100 recipes. All courses and all meals are covered, plus some selective international cuisine such as oriental, Mexican, and Italian. Mostly pretty basic stuff, but with lots of new colour photos to illustrate the step-by-step techniques and plated dishes. There is good material on how to create, to structure and to use recipes, beginning with menu construction and building. Other chapters concern the handling of convenience foods and meat cuts. The book concludes with an uptodate and useful bibliography. The ChefTec disc, part of the package price, is a database of recipes and a spreadsheet for all quantities and prices. It has its own search mechanism, which allows you to add your own recipes...600 recipes (but none of the Cordon Bleu) are already in the files, along with data on inventory, pricing, menu construction, etc. You can resize recipes, use US or metric measurements, reprice based on upward or downward costs, print recipes, find nutritional US RDA values, get invoice summaries, create shopping lists and purchase orders. The inside front cover pages explain how ChefTec works to resize and modify recipes, monitor costs and see the impact of prices on recipes and menus. I tried it, and it was extremely useful, although the help screens needed a bit more work -- this seems to be common with every software package. There is a website for online help, updates, and technical support. What I don't like about this book: too heavy a book!! and there is nothing on wine at all, except for a few sauce recipes. The ChefTec software could have had a sommelier program for wine inventory and pricing...but it is possible to create a separate file yourself. What I do like about this book: recipe contents are at the front, and there is a recipe index at the back. Great layout as a textbook. QPR Rating: 95. 9. ESSENTIALS OF PROFESSIONAL COOKING (John Wiley & Sons, 2003, 562 pages, ISBN 0-471-20202-9, $104.95) is also by Wayne Gisslen. It comes not only with the same ChefTec CD-ROM (see above) but also with a NRAEF student workbook for onthejob training -- which is why it is a bit higher in cost than the Canadian book above. Also available separately are the usual instructor manuals. This current book is a basic one, meant for managers in the food service industry, to know the essential cooking information for them to do their jobs well. And others may also profit from the book: nutritionists, dieticians, academic libraries, institutional food areas. The main difference between the two books, for us in Canada, is the lack of Canadian content, the elimination of the Cordon Bleu recipes, and the fewer recipes (by about a half). The book stresses cooking techniques, with the basic recipes. With only about half the costs of production, it is hard to figure out why this book's price is comparable to the Canadian book. Certainly the Canadian book is a better purchase, especially since it has the same software package. WINE AND FOOD BOOK REVIEWS FOR APRIL, 2003 ========================================== by Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. BRITISH COLUMBIA WINE COUNTRY (Whitecap Books, 2003, 192 pages, ISBN 1-55285-336-5, $29.95 paper covers) is by John Schreiner, well-known west coast Canadian wine writer and Financial Post writer since 1961. This is his seventh book on wine, and as such it forms a bridge to his eagerly awaited revision to "The Wineries of British Columbia", due out next year...The current book is arranged by regions and subdistricts; there are 14 areas, including Vancouver Island, Fraser Valley, Okanagan Valley, etc. As Schreiner points out, there were 14 winery licenses in 1981. Now there over 92 licenses, including some five fruit-only wineries -- and more are on the way. Probably over 100 by the end of the 2003 tourist season. Material in this book deals with wine touring, wine histories, and local terroir, plus, of course, gorgeous colour photos of the wineries and vineyards. There are also mainly black and white photos of the winemakers (what happened here? too much purple skin tones for colour??). There are sketch maps showing rough locations, narrative prose for short accounts of each region and the wineries. For example, the chapter on Vancouver Island has a description for 22 wineries. At the end of each region, the wineries are listed with names, addresses, phone numbers and websites. Not too cluttered a book, with all of it openly displayed on letter sized pages. The stories are all told, as a journalist would tell it, through the eyes of the winery owners and winemakers. The book is slick, glossy, with lots of colour, and concluding with an index of winery names (even those which have ceased operations), and people. What I don't like about this book: hey -- there are no tasting notes!! nor even much mention of varietals. And there are no statistics for production, etc. What I do like about this book: good journalistic style of feature writing. QPR rating: 90. 2. WINES OF SPAIN (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 207 pages, ISBN 1-84000-710-9, $21.95) is by Jan Read who also did the first edition back in 1983, when it was 144 pages and cost me $14.50. and 3. WINES OF AUSTRALIA (Mitchell Beazley, 2003, 208 pages, ISBN 1-84000-708-7, $21.95) is by James Halliday; it first came out in 2000, but Jane MacQuitty had an earlier edition in 1990, which also covered New Zealand (sadly lacking in this new book: no New Zealand book has been announced yet). Both countries have made tremendous strides in the past quarter-century, both in quality and with superior producers. Both Spanish and Australian wines deliver exceptional value and quality for the dollar. New "hot" areas in Spain include Castilla, Penedes, Ribera del Duero and Priorat. Exports of Rioja to the UK have climbed a hundred-fold (!!) in the past 25 years. Indeed, in just 12 years, the number of wineries in MacQuitty's Australian book doubled to more than 1100 in Halliday's book, although MacQuitty had more history in her book... Both books are set up the same way, with Hugh Johnson's annual being the pioneer model: a directory of producers, with a indication of DO status (for Spain), types of wine produced, some quality ranking, and some price ranges. Other material includes grape varieties, glossaries, a list of the best wines to buy in 2003/04, regional histories, some explanations of the labels, wine law discourses, statistics, sketch maps -- all packed in. The Spain book also has hotels, restaurants, plus local gastronomic specialities matched with local wines. It is arranged by region, from Aragon to Valencia, with chapters on sherry, sparklers, and spirits. The Australia book is arranged by the six states, and it has more directory information (names and addresses, phone numbers, case production figures, opening hours) unlike the Spain book. But there is no real assessment of the wine, unlike the Spain book. There are no tasting notes, no comments on winery vintages. Also, the index does not pick up brand names such as Black Opal. What I don't like about this book: it is not pocket-sized anymore; that was a great convenience...And it is too big to be even purse-sized. What I do like about this book: the tasting notes and the vintage assessments in the Spanish book, both unfortunately lacking in the Australian book. QPR rating: 95 for Spain; 90 for Australia (no tasting notes). 4. GLORIOUS SOUPS FOR ENTERTAINING (Ici La Press, 2002; distr.Canada Manda Group, 141 plus pages, ISBN 1-931605-06-8, $52) is by journalist Colette Gouvion and restaurant-owner Arlette Sirot, who specializes in soups. It was originally published in France in 2000. This oversized book is a true restaurant- chef book. Just about all of the soups can be prepared in advance, and they cover the spectrum of hot and cold, savoury and sweet. For example, tomato gazpacho with basil palmiers was a knockout success with me. There is nothing too complicated here, but it helps to have stocks and proper kitchen utensils on hand -- these are listed for each recipe. The soups are arranged by character: there are chapters for seven types of "refreshing" soups, a dozen "elegant" (=expensive) soups with oysters and truffles, seven "euphoriant" soups (made with alcohol), a half dozen vegetable soups, ten "invigorating" (=winter) soups, and ten "dessert" soups. Here are such delightful obscurities as nettle soup with snail fritters (Sirot lists garden gloves as kitchen equipment, to pick the nettles) or another one using "flat sausages" (don't ask....). Both Imperial and Metric measurements are given. And, of course, therte are gorgeous photographs for the final presentation, all distributed in colourful and unique soupbowls. What I don't like about this book: not a complete success, for there needs to be co-ordination between food stylist and recipe, viz. there's a pix of a small red mullet in the cotriade, yet the recipe specifically states to "only use fillets". Also, the almond milk and strawberry soup picture has whole almond shells floating on top, while the recipe calls only for ground almonds. Obviously, the recipe instructions are to be followed first. As with many European books, there is no index. What I do like about this book: the grouping of the recipes helps to mitigate the lack of indexing. And there are some interesting bread recipes to accompany the soups. QPR rating: 90. 5. THE ROASTED VEGETABLE (Harvard Common Press, 2002; distr. NBN, 230 pages, ISBN 1-55832-168-3, $14.95US paper covers) is by Andrea Chesman, cookbook editor and author with a James Beard Award nomination. The subtitle pretty well sums it up: "how to roast everything from artichokes to zucchini for big, bold flavours in pasta, pizza, risotto, side dishes, couscous, salsa, dips, sandwiches, and salads". Chesman is based in Vermont, which I think would encourage anyone to favour hearty roasted vegetables. Roasting does bring out the caramel sweetness and nuttiness -- I usually like all my veggies done this way. She describes the basics and sidedishes, followed by sections combining them with the courses mentioned in the subtitle. Essentially, this is a two-step cookbook: first, roast the vegetables, and second, make something with them. This is an ideal book for restaurants: the veggies can be roasted ahead, and then incorporated into other dishes. The book is fleshed out with recipes for roasting nuts and grains for granolas, such as tamari-roasted sunflower seeds. The 150 recipes include such tasty items as roasted squash and apple bisque, roasted salsas (great flavour enhancers), frisee salad with roasted onions, lentils and goat cheese, and a pesto and roasted vegetable loaf. What I don't like about this book: the green print can be hard to read (lack of contrast), there are some totally useless drawings, and there are no indications or recipes for leftovers from the sidedishes. I guess they can be all turned into an antipasto... What I do like about this book: its valuable roasting chart QPR rating: 88. 6. JEREMIAH TOWER COOKS (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2002; distr. Canada Manda Group, 296 pages, ISBN 1-58479-230-2, $55) is by the former chef at Chez Panisse, multiple award winner, and now a fulltime towering writer...Also known as the "father of California cuisine"...who has written an eclectic chef's book...with great stilllife paintings by Donald Sultan. Tower has a mixture of commonsense in his work, as well as how to do repair work for your errors when you screw up in the kitchen. Stuff like about roasted garlic puree, which he introduced at Chez Panisse, which he says should be made only from young fresh (=green) garlic. He has his prejudices too -- he's a buddy of James Beard...I'd love to be a fly on the wall at any meeting between Tower and the late Richard Olney...Snacks, sandwiches, pizza, salads, soups, pasta, lots of seafood (e.g., sea urchin souffle) and fowl. There is an extensive index, as well as an American mailorder source list. A book mainly for the food professional who builds a collection of cookbooks by chefs...250 recipes. What I don't like about this book: lots of ego and testosterone, but of course the recipes work. What I do like about this book: There are plenty of tips on cleaning up. Tower also believes in brining, both wet and dry. QPR rating: 93 7. AMERICAN REGIONAL CUISINE (John Wiley and Sons, 2002, 542 pages, ISBN 0- 471-40544-2, $67.50) is from the Art Institutes, a consortium of 23 US educational institutions. 14 of them have offered culinary courses since 1991. Six chefs, from various locations such as Colorado, Seattle, Houston, Ft. Lauderdale, worked on the book which can serve as a textbook for the classroom, the trade, and consumers. There are 11 cuisines covered in 250 recipes: Cajun, Creole, Tex-Mex, New England, "Floribbean", etc. Every part of the menu is covered with a full-range of complete meals. These are all the classic dishes, safe and moderately easy to do. You can add your own variations. They probably work best so long as you don't use the recipes in their area of origin. That makes it good for Canada. Each region opens with a cultural context, describing indigenous foods (e.g., for New England this would be apples, blueberries, Boston brown bread, clams, lobster, maple syrup) followed by the preparations (e.g., Cajun fish beignat, oysters rockefeller, chicken and androuille sausage gumbo, grits, greens, wild rice with black walnuts). There are detailed, almost goof-proof instructions; the book is meant as a text for chefs-in-training. There are bibliographic references for further reading about food and culture, a glossary, and 70 colour and black and white photos. There are separate index entries for "starches", "appetizers", "vegetables", "soups", and other courses to pull it all together in one place. What I don't like about this book: it has only basic classic recipes, no other variations. What I do like about this book: quantities are in both Imperial and Metric measures, and by weight -- as the pros do. QPR rating: 91. 8. THE GOOD CUISINE (Ici La Press, 2002; distr. Canada Manda Group, 331 pages, ISBN 1-931605-03-3, $45) is by Francoise Bernard (author of simple foodbooks for the French) and Alain Ducasse (with three-star restaurants in Paris, Monaco, and Manhattan). These are 208 recipes that are "easy and inspired" for everyday AND special occasions. The hook is this: here are 52 of the most frequently eaten foods in France, and for each, the two authors have created two recipes -- one "en famille" and one upscale. The novelty continues as each chef comments on the other chef's prep. Each food is discussed separately, and this is followed by four recipes and commentaries. Sort of like Coaches Corner, with Ron and Don...So for guinea hen (one of my favourite fowls), Bernard has one with onions, potatoes, and mushrooms, and another stewed with mushrooms and fried bread. Ducasse has a young guinea hen with lemon couscous and raisins, followed by a winter salad featuring roast guinea hen. Ease is indicated, as well as the use for each recipe (family, elegant, etc.). The index is by major ingredient, just the 52 food items -- not very helpful... What I don't like about this book: Four of the 52 are dogfish, hake, sea bream and whiting; these will be hard to find in North America and Australia, but not the UK. No substitutes were suggested. What I do like about this book: good idea! It could move to North America, with a similar book by a homestyle chef, say Biba, and an upscale chef, like Bugiali. QPR rating: 90. 9. MODERN MEXICAN FLAVORS (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2002; distr. Canada Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 1-58479-161-6, $55) is by Richard Sandoval, owner-chef of Maya in Manhattan, San Francisco, and Denver, with assistance from David Ricketts. 125 upscale recipes, with pepper heat tempered by honey and/or cream and cheese, highlighted by elegant service and flavoured oils. Sandoval also uses other cuisines, such as blood orange juice as a flavouring instead of local oranges, or creating a vinegar-free adobo (if necessary, vinegar is added separately) that is at once more versatile, or employing panko (Japanese bread crumbs which are coarser and drier)...He has some good things to say about commercially available sauces and preparations. There is one recipe per page, usually illustrated with a great food presentation photo (lots of ideas here). He opens with a section on ceviche and salads. Good plantain recipes, such as a puree with calamari in adobo, or fried slices with mole poblano chicken. Check out his upscale fajitas with skirt steak, the many crab recipes, the lobster tamale with zucchini stuffing, the duck carnitas. Desserts include chocolate tamales and coconut cheesecake. What I don't like about this book: there are inessential tourist photos and some rambling introductory commentary whioch takes up 20 pages. Also, there are only two pages of wine and Mexican food... What I do like about this book: general inventiveness, plus a whole section of basic recipes for sauces, beans, oils, adobos, and pestos. QPR rating: 88. 10. GIULIANO BUGIALLI'S FOODS OF NAPLES AND CAMPANIA (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2003; distr.Canada Manada Group, 271 pages, ISBN 1-58479-211-6, $75) is the latest in a series of regional Italian cookbooks created by this multiple award-winning author and teacher: a treasure trove of culture, cuisine, and history. 175 recipes are arranged in traditional Neapolitan service. There is a list of recipes by courses and an index by ingredient. He opens with a huge section on red wine vinegar (how to make your own, followed by peppers preserved in red wine vinegar, eggplant..., mixed vegetables....), and then a sweet bell pepper paste, lemon liqueur. Vegetables here include artichokes, fennel, fava beans, eggplant galore (try his, stuffed with chocolate), as well as peppers, tomatoes, beans. Lots of pasta with beans dishes. There are details about the making of mozzarella, its use beyond pizza, lots of seafood, and for dessert -- sfogliatelle (like millefeuille). He even has some holiday menus for Christmas and Easter (I used some of them), as well as for local saints. There are plenty of photos: plates of food, markets and products, life on the streets, and tourist stuff. He has done a good job of capturing the essence of Naples. What I don't like about this book: it is oversized and heavy, awkward to use for recipes. Good for the armchair chef...Regulars will need to work from photocopies. What I do like about this book: a glossary of Neapolitan dialect/Italian/English words and phrases. And the fact that he doesn't use much meat. QPR rating: 90. 11. THE FOOD OF ITALY; region by region (Chatto and Windus; distr. Random House, 2002, 256 pages, ISBN 0-7011-7361-0, $65) is by the superb author of Mediterranean foodbooks and multiple award winner, Claudia Roden. It was first published in 1989; this is a reissue of a classic. It grew out of a newspaper series in the Sunday Times. Roden spent a year living in 18 regions, culling recipes from both professional and family cooks. Here are 300 recipes, all arranged from north to south, region by region, concentrating on local traditional foods. You can use pages 11 - 14 (a sortof table of contents, recipe list) to track down and construct a multi-regional menu. She has good, if short, notes on the major wines of each region. There are two recipes on a page. Liguria, for example, has some text on food regionalities as well as wine, followed by 14 classic recipes for dishes such as herb ravioli with walnut sauce or pesto. Lombardy means pumpkin, since she has quite a few listed. What I don't like about this book: the price is high, seeing as how this is a reissue. It could have been reissued in paper, selling at $29.95? What I do like about this book: a classic QPR rating: 89 12. ESSENTIAL CUISINE (Ici La Press; distr. Canada Manda Group, 2002, 272 pages, ISBN 1-931605-07-6, $75) is by Michel Bras, a three star Michelin chef, owner of Puech de Suquet in Laguiole, Aubac -- southwest France. This is an English translation, with text by Colette Gouvion or Patrick Mialon. It is another great book from Ici La Press, meant for either the armchair chef or the professional chef who is always looking for ideas. These are absolutely superb food prep presentations, all well-framed in colour photographs. Gorgeous stuff, like soft boiled eggs with bread fingers (each finger has a different cheese cover such as roquefort or local chevre). Or his mises en bouche, such as tomatoes flavoured with fruits and flowers, his layered apple tarts, or his small pumpkins stuffed with shellfish. Soups (asparagus coulis), appetizers (duck foie gras sandwiches with sesame salt, apricot-bean puree, sweet-sour reduction and "assorted leaves"), fish (grilled red mullet -- skewered!! -- makes me feel sorry for them), vegetables (where he really shines, with such as a fromage blanc tartine with butternut squash confit and chives). There are 84 recipes plus some basic preps, all richly detailed and described. What I don't like about this book: there are no local wine notes or suggestions for accompaniment. And the oversized pages are awkward to manipulate (again, use a photocopy). What I do like about this book: he uses expensive ingredients -- so why not go all out once in awhile? QPR rating: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS FOR MARCH 2003 ================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. A TASTE OF HERITAGE; the new African-American cuisine (Wiley Publishing, 2002, 334 pages, ISBN 0-7645-6710-1, $29.99 paper covers) is by Joe Randall, professional executive chef and founder of A Taste of Heritage Foundation (which promotes African-American chefs) and Toni Tipton-Martin, food editor at the Cleveland Plain Dealer. Here are some 300 recipes, mostly from Randall but also from twelve other chefs, all acknowledged. This is soup to nuts, with meals (breakfasts and lunches) and lots of menu suggestions arranged by season -- and with recommended wines. For example, there is a New Orleans dinner, a Caribbean dinner, a fish fry picnic, a Pennsylvania Dutch event, a Creole feast. Some would say that this is upscale soul food, including such tasty dishes as sweet potato smoked sausage bisque, black-eyed pea salsa, smoked catfish, chittlin (!) pizza on a cornmeal crust, quail stuffed with collards and creamy grits. As he says, "We still have hogs-head cheese, but now it's julienned and served on a bed of fresh California baby greens and tossed with a light vinaigrette". Peach cobbler becomes a peach and sun-dried cherry filling in light dumplings with a brandy custard sauce. In format, each recipe has an ingredients list screened off, with clear concise directions. This is fusion food, combining soul food with the southwest and the southeast. What I don't like about this book: it still seems a bit self-effacing. What I do like about this book: there is a narrative about the African influence and slave experiences with food, and black history of food through war and depression. QPR rating: 90 2. JOHN PLATTER SOUTH AFRICAN WINE GUIDE 2003 (Capetown, Newsome McDowell, 2003, 520 pages, ISBN 0-9584506-1-7, pricecheck at the Cookbook Store or Amazon.Com) is subtitled "the guide to cellars, vineyards, winemakers, restaurants, and accomodation". It has been published for 20 years. For this latest edition, there are now 12 tasters -- all identified, and with initials after tasting notes. Some 4000 wines are here evaluated (512 are new to this edition), along with 44 new wineries. One- quarter of all top ranking 5 star wines are now being made by mom-and- pop operations, a remarkable achievement. Even the large co-ops are making more credible, limited collections of superior wine. The contents of the guide are straightforward: there are chapters on the wine industry, vintages and styles, touring (accomodation and food) -- all in seventy pages -- followed by some 400 pages of dictionary-arranged wineries, detailing most aspects. To quote, "Wines are entered under the name of the private producer, estate, co-operative winery or brand name of a merchant, and listed alphabetically. Entries feature some or all of: producer's name, address, phone/fax number, email address, website; wine name, colour and style, grape varieties, vintage, area of origin; selected recent awards and star ratings. Where applicable, other attractions to be enjoyed on the property, such as meals and accomodation, are highlighted." The book also has an indication of organic wines available for sale and sketch maps to show all winery locations. What I don't like about this book: there are a few ads to pay the bills, and this seems unavoidable. What I do like about this book: the index is by subject, so you can see at a glance what is the top performing pinotage, or cabernet sauvignon, or sparkler. QPR rating: 98 -- the book has no competition, and it is put together very nicely as a package. 3. THE GARDEN OF VEGAN (Arsenal Pulp Press, 2002, 256 pages, ISBN 1-55152-128-8, $22.95 paper covers) is by Tanya Barnard and Sarah Kramer. This is their second book: the first was "How It All Vegan!", which now has 50,000 copies in print. These 350 recipes do NOT cover animal products such as butter, milk, cheese, and honey. The authors have tried to be more upscale in this second book, appealing to sophisticated palates. This makes it more interesting for chefs to adopt recipes for their restaurants, should they want to offer some vegan dishes to fill out their menus....Recipes include orange poppyseed pancakes, megadarra (lentils and rice), fennel roasted vegetables, rhubarb crunch crisp, southern cornmeal pot pie. The book is just brimming with good stuff, ideas and tips: breakfasts, lunches to go, party suggestions. There is an extensive Q and A (FAQ) on health and food matters affecting vegans. What I don't like about this book: the index is mainly to the name of the recipe, and not to the ingredients. Also, there is a lot of "journaling" at the beginning, about 10% of the book, which is not really food related. What I do like about this book: there is a good larder list, including the indispensible Braggs. The "style" is too twentysomething for me, but it should certainly appeal to younger readers... QPR rating: 89 4. FEARLESS IN THE KITCHEN; innovative recipes for the uninhibited cook (Viking Canada, 2002, 206 pages, ISBN 0-670-04334-6, $29 paper covers) is by Canadian Christine Cushing, cooking show host for the Food Network, and a professional formerly at Four Seasons, Scaramouche, King Ranch Spa...She emphasizes ethnic and unusual ingredients, stressing creativity. But of course, you need to know what you are doing (the art of substitution, experimenting, confidence in oneself). Know the rules before you break the rules. All of the recipes are appealing, such as harissa-baked rainbow trout, Israeli couscous with sweet potato, orzo with grilled eggplant and toasted pinenuts, turkey with apples and riesling and pancetta. The final section has 18 really challenging recipes. This is more of a book to inspire confidence. What I don't like about this book: two company logos smack of product placement and rewards, and there is a useless opening section on fearlessness which consumes 20 pages. What I do like about this book: it has both metric and imperial measurements, the book lies relatively flat, and there is a good index. QPR rating: 87 5. VINTAGE HUMOR FOR WINE LOVERS (Santa Cruz, Krushner Group, 2003, 168 pages, ISBN 0-9704598-9-0, $9.95US paper: or POB 7509, Santa Cruz, CA 95061 or Amazon.Com) is by Malcolm Kushner, a noted speaker and trainer of speakers, based in California, and who also uses a hefty chunk of humour in his presentations. He calls his book the world's first complete book of wine humour. There are hundreds of funny quotes, definitions, weird and strange laws, jokes, anecdotes and news items about wine and alcohol. There are also some precious (all of my favourites) wine cartoons from the New Yorker. Thirteen chapters cover topics dealing with romance, health, service, tasting, toasting. Included are hilarious sendups of wine etiquette and wine snobs and wine tasting events. All of the material is sourced, should you want to quote it in your own speech or writing (even Tony Aspler has a quote!) The cartoons have been licensed, not lifted, much material comes from the Internet, and there are also many self-penned stories. Still, I would have liked more jokes, which can be found in common parlance or attributed, such as Dan Berger's scoring of a wine based on the physical appearance of the bottle, or the nuns and chablis, or the funeral of a wine writer, etc. For more quotes and jokes, one can also check my own website as well as other websites (just google along with "wine +jokes" or "wine +quotes"). What I don't like about this book: there are way too many general alcohol and drink jokes which are not wine-related. What I do like about this book: the New Yorker cartoons and the original material. QPR rating: 91, but you need to have a sense of humour... 6. CATALAN CUISINE (Harvard Common Press, 1999, 332 pages, ISBN 1-55832-154-3, $18.95US paper covers) is by Colman Andrews, acclaimed editor of SAVEUR. This is the paperback reprint of the classic Macmillan hard back. Of course, it is the definitive book on the region's food. "Catalan" embraces Catalonia, Valencia, the Balearic Islands and even Roussillon in France. Catalan is also a language. Think Costa Brava. Typical regional dishes are built on four basic sauces (allioli, sofregit, picada and samfaina) which have been developed over time through the Romans, Visigoths, Moors, French, Italians and then the Spanish. It is a hearty, rich cuisine, centered on wild game, pork and sausages. It is the only cuisine to call for both lard AND olive oil together in the same dish. Regional dishes include romesco (chiles and ground nut sauce) and calcots (grilled onions). What I don't like about this book: the relationship -- and food -- with Roussillon is not fully explained, nor are wines fully investigated (despite their local importance). What I do like about this book: recipes are indexed by both categories and ingredients, there is a description of local markets and restaurants, and there are glossaries and bibliographies for the advanced reader. QPR rating: 95 7. VATCH'S THAI STREET FOOD (Laurel Glen; distr. by Raincoast, 2002, 144 pages, ISBN 1-57145-826-3, $29.99 paper covers) is by Vatcharin Bhumichitr, a noted restaurateur in London specializing in "northern" Thai cooking. This is his sixth Thai cookbook, and it deals with food from street vendors. All recipes have been adapted for home use, and include all courses including sweets and noodlemaking. The arrangement is by Thai region, with gorgeous colour photos of dishes, cooking, and the food stalls. Typical walkaway foods here include papaya salad, shrimp wrapped in bean curd sheet, massaman lamb curry, corn cakes, banana fritters. Vatch presents a detailed party list emphasizing fingerfood and skewered foods. All of this, while easy enough to do, does depend on a well-stocked larder of ingredients. What I don't like about this book: be aware that there are lots of fried foods here. The index is by major ingredient only. What I do like about this book: there are recipes for making your own pastes and oil. QPR rating: 89. 8. A VINEYARD IN THE DORDOGNE; how an English family made their dream of wine and sunshine come true (Metro Publishing, distr. by Hushion House, 2003, 303 pages, ISBN 1-84358-018-7, $19.95 paper) is by Jeremy Josephs. It is a fascinating biography of the Ryman family, centred around prickly Nick Ryman who sold his multi-million pound Ryman Stationery business in the 1960s and bought Chateau de la Jaubertie, in Colombier near Bergerac. He relocated his family, and subsequently made the Chateau an outstanding property in southwest France. This book is also a description of Bergerac winemaking. It took Ryman two years to get his property, for the owner jacked the price to twice the asking value. And even then, the wife did not want to sell. Ryman rebuilt the winery with new equipment and staff, spending all his money before turning the corner (and winning major awards for first, his whites, and then his red wines). He owned the Chateau outright 1973 through 1994, but eventually sold it to a consortium headed by his son, the famous flying winemaker, Hugh Ryman. There is lots of material here about having to deal with the French, even worse than Peter Mayles had described in his book on Provence...This is also the story of Hugh Ryman and what shaped him and made him become a leading consulting winemaker (at one time he was supervising 19 properties around the world). The subtitle is slightly misleading, since the "dream of wine and sunshine" never really came true. This is an account of family difficulties. There are fights and arguments and petty thefts on every page -- or so it seems. Lots of intrigues and family turbulences stand out. As Nick's "estranged" brother Desmond put it at p.297: "So if he did eventually make a success of it, it has been at the expense of his marriage, his health, and every penny he has ever had". At various points in his life, Nick ended up estranged from everybody. What I don't like about this book: the writing style wavers from too cute to too pedestrian; only the medium between the swings seems interesting. And there is no index, which is a shame since it can be hard to go back and pull out specific references, say, to Hugh Ryman. What I do like about this book: the photos, plus the fact that it does exist. QPR rating: 88, depending on your tastes for biography. 9. THE WILDER SHORES OF GASTRONOMY (Ten Speed Press, 2002, 500 pages, ISBN 1- 58008-417-6, $27.95US) has the subtitle "Twenty years of the best food writing from the journal 'Petits Propos Culinaires'". This collection has been edited by Alan Davidson and Helen Saberi, both food researchers who did the Oxford Companion to Food. Davidson is also the founder of the journal, and the goto guy for international seafood. I am a former subscriber to this UK journal but eventually stopped because I could not afford the added international postage! So I am glad to have a wide-ranging collection of some PPC writing in my library. PPC began in 1979 (it is still being produced) as a clever ruse to publish Richard Olney's recipes so that they could be included in Time-Life's Good Cook series. PPC went on to be published every four months, and to be a basis for the Oxford Symposium on Food and the Oxford Companion to Food. It concerns food history around the world, cooking in the Bronze Age to the 21st century, and with regional exotica such as termites and cow udders. Its aficionados were once described as "benign fanatics", its Notes and Queries section a hotbed of activity and research. And despite its frequency, it does have many scoops: it broke the story on red peppercorns, it provided scientific accuracy for cooking on car engines, and it delved into the origins of summer pudding. Many of its contributors are well-known, such as Claudia Roden, C.Anne Wilson, Jane Grigson, Elizabeth David, Harold McGee, Richard Olney, and Elizabeth Lamert Ortiz. All the royalties from this current anthology go to support a prize which promotes good research and writing in the field of food history. What I don't like about this book: no index, not even a general one. What I do like about this book: its bibiliographic references, and reproductions of PPC covers and older illustrations. QPR rating: 95 for the food historians. 10. HERBS AND SPICES; the cook's reference (Dorling Kindersley Publishing, 2002, 336 pages, ISBN 0-7894-8939-2, $45) is by Jill Norman, a longtime UK food and drink writer, and an expert on herb and spice usage. She has written many books on this topic, and some of them have won major writing awards in the UK. Here, she gives us a reference book. There are three major sections: herbs, spices, and a collection of recipes. Over 120 herbs and spices are arranged by aroma and taste, with notes on how to buy, store and cook. The subsections for herbs, for example, go from mild, through sweet, tart, licorice, minty, oniony, bitter and pungent. Thus, parsley -- since it is mild -- comes up first, and cilantro is in the pungent section. There are photographs of each plant, and the details cover at least one page, sometimes two, for the more prominent condiments. She details preparation methods (drying, grinding, crushing), herb and spice mixtures, sauces, and marinades -- all illustrated with colour photos. There is a bibliography, and international source lists with websites (Richters of Canada is here). A terrific guide for chefs. What I don't like about this book: it weighs a lot, and is not convenient to carry about. Picky, picky me... What I do like about this book: index is by common and botanical names, with ingredients and techniques from the recipes. QPR rating: 93. 11. MEDITERRANEAN VEGETABLES (Harvard Common Press, 2001, 388 pages, ISBN 1- 55832-196-9, $29.95US) is by Clifford A. Wright, author of "A Mediterranean Feast" (an award-winning book), and food historian. Vegetables are a mainstay of the Mediterranean. This book's subtitle says it all: "A cook's ABC of vegetables and their preparation in Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, the Middle East and North Africa, and more than 200 authentic recipes for the home cook." And it delivers...Each dictionary-style entry describes a vegetable and its varieties, origins, culinary history, how to grow and harvest, plus some definitive recipes. 240 veggies are covered (the book does not include herbs such as rosemary or oregano: see Norman's book above for these), and many are gathered in the wild, so don't look for them in your modern North American marketplace. Covered are such as borage, garden cress, kohlrabi, celeriac, plus the usual (potatoes, eggplant) that we all know and love. Both common English and Latin botanical names are given, as well as names in other Mediterranean languages. Some "fruits" are included, of course, such as bell peppers and tomatoes, as well as other "non-vegetable" plants such as mushrooms and truffles. What I don't like about this book: the typeface alternates between lavender and olive green (Mediterranean colours), a too cute and atrocious idea which makes it hard for any reader to study the book for any length of time. Shamey, shamey on Harvard Common Press... What I do like about this book: thorough, comprehenive, and lack of pictures (which freed up more space for text!) QPR rating: 92 12. THE FLAVORS OF SICILY (Ici La Press; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 2001, 250 pages, ISBN 1-931605-01-7, $38US) is by Anna Tasca Lanza, a Sicilian cooking school and winery owner. She presents a lot of details about the folk and culinary lore of Sicily, with stories and recipes on the two cuisines of the peasants and the well-off. Her approach is through the celebration of festivals, extending from March through September, with notes on historical patterns from the Greeks to Romans to Arabs to Spain to the Brits. She follows the fruit, vegetables and fish through the seasons. Imported Sicilian products include blood oranges, Marsala and Zibibbo wines, and snails. Definitive dishes here include cuddureddi (doughnuts), pasta with sardines, falsomagro (meat roll), anise biscuits, pasta con mandorle (wild fennel, tuna and almonds), and caponata. This fine regional cookbook comes with a list of US mail order sources. What I don't like about this book: the index could be expanded more. I'd also like more details on fall and winter activities (not that winter is any colder in Sicily). What do they do the rest of the year? What I do like about this book: description of changes in Sicilian winemaking, and the good layout of the recipe on each page. QPR rating: 89. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS REVIEWED FOR FEBRUARY 2003 ============================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at 1. WINE; an introduction (Dorling Kindersley, 2001, 224 pages, ISBN 0- 7894-8063-8, $39.95) is by Joanna Simon, an award-winning wine writer for the Sunday Times, and author of several other wine books. This book is her take on introducing people to wine, a sortof WINE 101...It is an oversized book, with effective use of colour and sidebars for tips and advice. She has a "no nonsense" setup, starting right off with wine styles, ranging from crisp to full-bodied. In the next chapter, she covers over 90 grape varieties, with a description of what each wine -- made from that grape -- should taste like, as well as a picture of the grape. She then moves on to tasting wine and how to describe it. Another chapter is titled "exploring wine", where she sets up cases based on "if you like this wine, then try that wine". For Chilean cabernet sauvignon, for example, she says to try cabernets from (in order) California, Australia, Washington State, Pays D'oc, South Africa, and then Chilean carmenere and Argentinian malbec -- but not, apparently, Argentinian cabernet. The principles of food-wine-food matches are enunciated, followed by growing, making, buying, storing, and serving wine, with -- along the way -- points on describing wine labels and tasting vocabulary. Finally, she tackles the wine regions of the world. What I don't like about this book: too many pictures, taking away space from more details about wines. What I do like about this book: a pronunciation guide, and her sensible approach. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 85. 2. WHISKY CLASSIFIED; choosing single malts by flavour. (Pavilion; distr. by Raincoast, 2002, 224 pages, ISBN 1-86205-527-0, $36.95) is by David Wishart, a professional statistician who developed a way to profile and classify single malts (SM)..Look at His twelve points of profiling (all carefully defined) lead to about 400 descriptors, sort of like an aroma wheel. Indeed, he acknowledges the first "flavour wheel" developed by Pentlands in 1979. Wishart's commendable book classifies whiskies by: body/weight; peaty/smokey; medicinal/salty; tobacco- leather-sweaty-papery; honey/vanilla; spicy/woody; winey/sherry; nutty/creamy; malty-toasted-yeasty; fruity-citric-jammy-dried fruit; and floral/herbal. Each whisky profiled has a level of concentration for each of these categories, and Wishart explains them all. He reviews the principal malts, describes the distillery, visiting data, tasting notes and a flavour profile for a typical 10 - 15 year-old SM --- not the whole range. For eaxample, there is only one entry for Springbank, despite its 27 or so SMs. These analyses can lead to clustering (statistician!), from cluster A (full-bodied, medium-sweet, sherry tones, smoke) to cluster J (full-bodied, pungent, peaty, spicy). Typical As include Mortlach, Macallan, while Js are Laphroaig, Talisker. What I don't like about this book: too much introductory matter on history and making scotch before actually getting into it -- this material can be found elsewhere. Also, this takes space away from perhaps inserting more tasting notes on more SMs, enlarging his database. What I do like about this book: a successful attempt to link different scotches to a tasting profile, for drinkers' enjoyment. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 89. 3. KISS GUIDE TO WINE (Dorling Kindersley, 2000, 400 pages, ISBN 0-7894-5981-7, $26.95 paper) is by Robert Joseph and Margaret Rand, both longtime wine writers at the Telegraph, and both picking up many writing awards. This is another WINE 101 dummy type book, but with three differences: it originates in the UK where there is a more civilized perspective on drinking wines; it is also more literate and serious without the awful jokes; and it has a liberal use of colour. The book simplifies rather than dumbs down. There is a whole KISS series (Keep It Simple, Stupid). The basics are here: choose, taste, store, serve, different flavours and textures, geographic regions of wines: grapes, vineyards, winemakers... Plus diverse customs and rituals, food-wine-food matches, vintage charts, glossaries. Canada gets a fair play over three pages, with references to icewine. There is a bibliography and resources list, plus index. Just another introductory text, but with a good difference.... What I don't like about this book: with its clay-based paper for colour reproductions, the book is heavy to lift. What I do like about this book: the use of colour and photos, the listing of Internet addresses and websites. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 86. 4. RECIPES FOR DISASTER; a deliciously funny feast of true culinary catastrophes (Robson Books; distr. by Hushion, 2001, 234 pages, ISBN i-86105-4696, $34.95) is by Richard De'ath, a pseudonym. Here is a book for the armchair cooks (and others) who get tired of reading about all those "Memorable Meals"...The chapters are grouped together, such as catering calamities, misprints (e.g., Delia Smith's brasserie is confused with her brassiere), places that seem to be like Fawlty Towers without meaning to, advertising campaigns, bizarre and unfortunate occurences, television cooking show gaffes from Two Fat Ladies and Delia Smith and Masterchefs, menu misprints (e.g., marconi au gratin, mules marinere, stewed teak and potatoes). There are short and long accounts, with quotes from such as Oscar Wilde. Typical groupings are "eat, drink and be wary", "half-baked ideas", "feud for thought". "pick and chews" -- well, you get the drift. Perfect reading for the winter months, or even summer vacation for those food and wine professionals who take their work with them. What a delightful book!! What I don't like about this book: there is no subject index, which would have been useful since it is otherwise hard to pullup meals. Also, there is a heavy UK orientation, belying the book's origins. What I do like about this book: the illustrations and cartoons, mostly from "Punch", which is no more. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 92+ (depending on your sense of humour) 5. MICHAEL JACKSON'S GREAT BEER GUIDE; the best 500 beers of the world (Dorling Kindersley, 2000, 544 pages, ISBN 0-7894-5156-5, $19.95 paper) is by one of the pre-eminent beer writers on this planet...He also writes about scotch, but have you noticed that bios about Jackson-the-beer-writer never comment on Jackson-the-scotch-writer, and vice versa? It must be in his contract, for the pictures are of the same guy. Unless it's a Nicholas Cage adaptation, all over again...Anyway, the beers are arranged alphabetically. The index has them relisted by country. Canada has 16 beers here, such as Creemore Springs Lager from Ontario and a lot from Quebec. The sequence is Aass Bock (Norway) through Zirndorfer Landbier Hell (Bavaria). Each entry details region of origin, style (e.g.,"strong, spiced ale"), alcohol content, ideal serving temperature, a colour picture of the bottle and label, a picture of the corporate logo glass with a head and colour of the beer notes, a short history of the beer, and a tasting note. It is a judgement call as to whether these are the best 500 beers in the world. Still, Jackson is an expert and you have to begin somewhere. Try all these beers before moving on to something else, making exceptions only for local brews. All of the beers here are in bottles, occasionally on draught, with distribution flows all over the world in some form or another. His resource list includes a bibliography for other books about beers in USA, Belgium, Czech Republic, France, Austria and Germany, as well as lots of addresses, websites, and lists of magazines to read... What I don't like about this book: heavy in weight, unwieldly, not easy carried around to stores or travels. What I do like about this book: his illustrated users guide's appendix deals with pouring beer, tasting beer, flavours and aromas, beer with food and cooking. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 91. 6. MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD; a comprehensive guide with recipes. Third Edition. (Ten Speed Press, 2002, 431 pages, ISBN 1-58008-451-6, $ 24.95US, probably $39 in Canada, paper covers) is by Alan Davidson, the eminence gris of UK food writing (think Oxford food symposia, Penguin Companion to Food, issues of PPC [see next month]). It was originally published in 1972, and then 1981. This edition had some updated and corrected scientific and vernacular names, plus some new illustrations. Lots of data were derived from the FAO in Rome. He concentrates on "edible marine life of the Mediterranean", with identifications of each seafood in up to twelve local languages. His descriptions are followed by a historical note and general cooking preparations, along with a superb line drawing. He suggests substitutions if the seafood is not readily available in your market. This coverage of fish, crustaceans, and molluscs is followed by a recipe section, 200 or so specific ways of dealing with seafood, arranged by country (Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Middle East, North Africa), and dealing with the classics to the unique. Lots of different kinds of fish soups and fish stews, as well as omelettes and baked seafood (although scallops provencal and scallops venetian are remarkably similar). Davidson is an excellent writer, Additionally, there are two indexes (to all of the names of the seafood, and to all of the ingredients in the recipes) plus an extensive bibliography which includes histories and other cookbooks. What I don't like about this book: I am hard pressed here, but maybe we could use more recipes (or at least more variations) in the next edition? What I do like about this book: an amazing resource book, even if one never cooks a single dish. Also,it is larger in format than the earlier Penguin editions. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 95 (especially if you don't have the earlier edition). 7. SWEET WINES; a guide to the world's best with recipes (Douglas & McIntyre, 2002, 148 pages, ISBN 1-55054-948-0, $50) is by James Peterson, prolific cookbook author and professional chef. Let's face it, most drinkers like sweet wines: they just don't want to admit it. Most of us have an off-dry palate with a SC=1 or 2 -- look at how many "dry" wines with SC=1 are on liquor store lists. Many like small doses of Late Harvest wines. The main difficulty here (beyond one's admission to liking sweeties) is trying to get good food-wine-food matches. Here's where Peterson comes in, albeit with only 30 recipes scattered among all courses (e.g., blanc-mange, madeleines, chicken liver mousse, oxtails braised in banyuls, tropical fruit soup, gougeres, gingerbread cakes, chicken tagine...). Most of the book describes sweet wines, and when he puts it all together, there's a helluva lot of it out there. His is a regional survey, beginning with French Sauterne, Barsac, Loire, Alsace SGN, German Auslese and beyond (BA, TBA, Eiswein), Portuguese Port, Madeira, Moscatel de Setubal, Spanish Sherry, Italian Marsala, Vin Santo, Recioti, Hungarian Tokaji. Mostly European in scope with knockoffs in the New World. Reading this book, I realized that muscat is everywhere in the world !! Canadian Icewines are covered quite nicely, but nothing at LH, SLH or even SSLH levels. He says: "It would seem that winemakers in the Finger Lakes district could make icewines comparable to those of Canada, but samples I've tasted, while good, aren't as good as a typical Canadian icewine". Well James, that's because many New York icewines are made in the freezer (cryogenic extraction, which he does not discuss, not even when commenting on Bonny Doon's Vin de Glaciere), unlike VQA icewine. Check the price -- I've bought Wagner Icewine for under $20 a half-bottle, and that's not a true icewine. He discusses at length what makes sweet wines sweet without adding sugar. This means naturally high sugars, vins doux naturels, vin de paille, passito, botrytis, icewine, and vins de liqueurs -- but again, not cryogenic extraction. Best of all of these is botrytis (noble rot): this adds another dimension of a honey-butterscotch fungal quality, beyond the grape or the concentration of the grape sugars. He also writes sidebars with tips and advice, and the book has pictures of labels and bottles. He concludes with a chapter on grapes used and their sweet characteristics. What I don't like about this book: he just skims the surface for such heavies as Sauterne and Port. Also, there was nothing on artificial freezing or drying, nothing on sparkling Shiraz in the Australian chapter, and he only covers grapes (no other fruit wines). What I do like about this book: separate wine and recipe indexes, and it fills a resource need. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 92 (despite the few reservations) 8. APPETITE (Random House Canada, 2002, 448 pages, ISBN 0-679-31212-9, $60) is by Nigel Slater, writer for the Observer, author of best selling cookbooks, and TV cooking show personality. He and his books have been successful -- then why is this book (copyrighted 2000 in the UK) just now being published in Canada? Here are the basics of hearty cooking without a net: no real quantities or measurements are expressed. This can be a bit challenging for people who do not cook all that often. But on the other hand, his "pared-down approach" (his words) deals with a limited amount of choice. There is nothing really fancy nor complicated here. He offers good tips on how to cut down on work and how to live without measurements. First, use only top ingredients (these will actually chop, cut, and cook better). Eat for the season. Next, create a first course from mostly purchased food (e.g., smoked slamon, olives, salami and cold cuts). Dessert can be an upscale cake purchase, ice cream, chocolates, ripe fruit -- all done with minimal processing. Along the way, offer salads, cheeses, and breads. That just leaves the main course; this is where you can put most of your efforts. He has menu suggestions for three course meals by season, with lots of ideas on what foods go with what, a sort of food-food match, by adding and by taking away flavours. There is an extensive commentary on the equipment needed, and key ingredients for the pantry (such as lemons, pancetta, herbs and spices). Food types have a basic recipe plus variations on the formula. Soups, pasta, rice, vegetables, meat, seafood -- all follow this basic flow, with many items steamed or stir-fried or grilled or baked. Quantities indicated include "small handful", "a few", "thick one", "large handful", "2 or 3". But, for the uninitiated: be sure to read the recipe procedures thoroughly! What I don't like about this book: too much "early" material, a bit rambling, and not very food related. Also, I felt that he could have mentioned a few things to do with wines, to enhance the eating experience. What I do like about this book: good primer, pictures are a help. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 86. 9. GREAT POTATOES; a cook's guide to over 150 delicious recipes (Viking Canada, 2002, 212 pages, ISBN 0-670-04348-6, $25 paper covers) is by Kathleen Sloan- McIntosh, a well-known Canadian cookbook and food freelance writer, now based in the Niagara Peninsula. She says the Canadian-originated Yukon Gold potato was the impetus for this book. A member of the belladonna family (tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant, tobacco), the potato is a good source for niacin, riboflavin, thiamin, essential minerals, and complex carbohydrates. One 142 gram potato can supply half the RDA of Vitamin C. It is probably everybody's favourite vegetable. Over 400 species of white potatoes have been catalogued. And there are plenty of yellow, red, purple varieties, in all shapes and sizes, all year long. And they are used in every conceivable way: boiling, baking, roasting, frying, mash. The only difference between most potatoes which appear at the market: some are floury (best for baking and mashing), some are waxy (best for salads). That is all you really need to know: which is which? If in doubt, choose Yukon Golds, for they are all-purpose, and can be used in any recipe. Sloan has many sidebars of tips and advice. Her chapters are arranged by status, beginning with "classic" recipes (roast, mash, fried, scalloped...), and moving on to comfort food, appetizers (potato focaccia, potato bread, brandade...), dinner parties (upscale: French potato galette, oyster pie, potato soup and pesto...), summer potatoes (salads, grilled, potato wafer club sandwich), winter potatoes (souffles, stews, noodles), and a concluding section on sweet potatoes which is mostly desserts but with some interesting concoctions involving dry mashed white potatoes. What I don't like about this book: "classic salade nicoise" has no place here, especially if it is supposed to be "classic". Also, there is no discussion about genetically-modified potatoes nor about organically-grown potatoes. What I do like about this book: detailed index, plus the inclusion of sweet potatoes. Quality/Price Ratio rating: 90. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS REVIEWED FOR JANUARY 2003 ============================================= by Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at .... 1. THE NEW FRANCE; a complete guide to contemporary French wine (Mitchell Beazley, 2002, 256 pages, ISBN 1-84000-410-X, $70) is by Andrew Jefford, the London Evening Standard's drink correspondent, award winner, and author of a few general wine books. But here he contributes to the advancement of wine literature by fashioning perhaps the most important wine book of 2002. Certainly it tops my list for the best of 2002!! He reports on the changes in France over the past 30 years, the changes characterized by a drop in rigidity (the less you interfere the better) and a drop in the power of the co-operatives and negociants (they are definitely in decline). Small though these drops may be, the changes are very important for such a conservative wine country as France. Most of the rigidity comes from various interpretations of the bureaucratic AOC wine laws. Changes in the Rhone, for example, include the re-introduction of the Serine grape, a close relative of Syrah, but with less fruit and more smokey-fat. Jefford claims that the most influential French winemaker of the 1990s was Michel Rolland (Bon Pasteur, Pomerol) who, as a consultant, convinced many wineries to pic