AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR DECEMBER 2008 ============================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE!! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. OREGON; the taste of wine (Graphic Arts Books, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-88240-746-3, $24.95 US hard covers) is by photographer Janis Miglavs, who has lived in Oregon since 1982. He is a well-known travel adventure photographer with many credits worldwide, notably in National Geographic. This book is a photographic tour, with interviews and discussion on winemaking in the region. He has profiles of select wineries. The over-arch is a short section on history and culture, with an historical timeline to cover the 16 AVAs in Oregon (most prominent to us in Canada is Willamette Valley and Wall Walla Valley). This includes material on terroir, sustainable practices, LEED certification, and so forth. Ninety-four people contributed to the book (they are all listed alphabetically) from David Adelsheim to Cecil Zerba. And there is a good integration of photos with quotes from the various winemakers. Audience and level of use: wine travelers, Oregon wine lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Fly Over Red and Fly Over White wines were developed at one winery when it became ignored by wine writers who were to busy coming up from California and “flying over” the winery. The downside to this book: no index. The upside to this book: well-written and well-photographed. Quality/Price Rating: 89. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE SCIENCE OF GOOD FOOD (Robert Rose, 2008, 624 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7788-0189-4, $37.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by the team of David Joachim (involved in more than 30 cookbooks), Andrew Schloss (past president of IACP), and A. Philip Handel (who direct Hospitality Management at Drexel University). It is alphabetically arranged, from abalone to zucchini. The 1600 entries plus explain the physical and chemical transformations in food preps. Each entry has an explanation of the science behind the food, equipment or cooking method. Major topics embrace agriculture, food and safety, animals, and flavours, along with kitchen wisdom, equipment and techniques. There are many cross-references, such as “see” and “see also”. As well, there are 200 illustrations and photos and 100 demonstrative recipes to show principles such as deep frying. There are tables on “how it works” and “what it does”. The book concludes with a bibliography and website listing, plus an index to pull in all the references found in other entries. Audience and level of use: a reference book, good to poke around in, although a bit heavy in size for the bedside and/or the john. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: stuffed lamb’s hearts with bacon and mushroom; acorn squash filled with pumpkin seed risotto; basil ricotta ice cream; beta-carrotene cake; chipotle consommé; tomatillos jalapeno jam. The downside to this book: for a reference book like this, I’d pay a few more dollars to get a hard bound copy: ISBN 978-0-7788-0205-1 $54.95 CDN The upside to this book: recipe titles are listed in red in the index. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. THE FRUIT HUNTERS; a story of nature, adventure, commerce and obsession (Doubleday Canada, 2008, 280 pages, ISBN 978-0-385-66267-3, $29.95 CAD hard covers) is by Adam Leith Gollner, who has written extensively on fruit as a freelance writer for the New York Times, Gourmet, and Bon Appetit. He currently lives in Montreal. Log rolling has been provided by the Stearns and by Taras Grescoe. His book is an international examination of the fruit we eat and why we eat them, for scientific, economic and aesthetic reasons. He delves into how mass produced fruits have been created, grown and marketed. This wide ranging and sprawling book also covers inaccessible fruits. There is a lot of travel to exotic places such as Borneo to track down obscure fruits. There are chapters, then, on the nature of fruit, the adventure of travel, the commerce of production and marketing (including politics and treaties), and the obsession of preservation and breeding for creating fruits and hybrids that travel. Along the way, there are commentaries on the spreading of pests, irradiation, and electronic pasteurization. And yes, durians are covered but there is no scratch and sniff sample here. The book has a bibliography and an index. Audience and level of use: foodies, academic libraries, culinary hospitality programs. Some interesting or unusual facts: Fruits are seed envelopes that contain within them the genetic coding that will further the entire plant. Over a quarter million different plant species bear fruit, yet only 75,000 of these are edible. Most fruit food come from only 20 different species of crops, such as apples, oranges, berries, etc. The downside to this book: no mention of organics or biodynamics. The upside to this book: a good read. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 4. KNIVES COOKS LOVE; selection, care, techniques, recipes (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2008; distr. Simon & Schuster, 180 pages, ISBN 978- 0-7407-7002-9, $25 US hard covers) is by Sur La Table, with Sarah Jay. Sur La Table (founded in 1972) is now a chain of kitchen furnishings stores, with added cooking schools and cookbooks. Sarah Jay is now a free-lance writer; she was formerly executive editor of “Fine Cooking” magazine. Log rolling endorsements come from Cat Cora (Iron Chef), Nancy Oakes (Boulevard) and Emeril Lagasse (Bam). The concept of knives here includes cheese knives, meat cleavers, salmon slicers, ceramic knives, and shears. This basic primer covers everything you should need to know, including 46 techniques and 20 recipes, most with step-by-step photos on chopping, dicing and slicing. There is a section on how to care for blades and handles, testing for sharpness and using honers. Sidebars are full of advice from other chefs. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used, with no metric tables of conversion. Audience and level of use: foodies, kitchen fanatics, culinary schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: green apple and fennel salad; rice with chicken and chorizo; bread and butter pudding with ginger; roasted cauliflower gruyere gratin. The downside to this book: a few more harder and useful recipes could have been useful. The upside to this book: large typeface and good pictures. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. BAKEWISE; the hows and whys of successful baking with over 200 magnificent recipes (Scribner, 2008, 532 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-6078-4, $40 US hard covers) is by Shirley O. Corriher, author of CookWise (a Beard winner). Log rolling comes from the heavyweights of Harold McGee, a Joy of Cooking co-author, Peter Reinhart, and Jacques Pepin, although I don’t know why the overkill was needed since Corriher had previously written an award-winning book. The early PR bumpf for this book claimed 250 recipes; downsizing seems to be a theme everywhere this year. Here are the important recipes for baking PLUS the science and the techniques behind the preps: moist cakes, free-standing soufflés, shrink-free meringues, flaky pastry, light genoise, and crusty breads. She has “at a glance” charts for problem solving, and “what this recipe shows” for culinary information that can apply to hundreds of recipes. Further, she has a wide range of courses, all cited. For example, she’ll give techniques ascribed to 3 or 4 different chefs plus her own notes on science (techniques, mixing times, mixing speeds, et al). Overall, you just need to remember the maxim of following the rules before breaking the rules. Baking is better suited to rules than cooking. The latter is all-forgiving.; baking is not. Ingredients are listed in both weights and volumes, for both avoirdupois and metric forms. But she still has tables for reference. She concludes with an extensive bibliography of books and articles, plus sources of supply (all US). Audience and level of use: the informed cook, bakers, culinary schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sweet peas and roasted walnut muffins; Southern biscuits; scones; gougeres; lemon cream chiffon cake; croustade. The downside to this book: I would have liked more details on the differences between gas and electric stoves. The upside to this book: better baking through chemistry. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 6. THE KOREAN TABLE; from barbecue to bibimbap (Tuttle Publishing, 2008; distr. Ten Speed Press, 160 pages, ISBN 978-0-8048-3990-7, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Taekyung Chung, a Korean cookbook author and Japanese TV chef, and Debra Samuels, a food writer and stylist and cooking instructor. Is Korea the next big wave of Asian food in North America? It certainly seems poised to be, since it is meat-based, healthy, robust and flavoured, famous for the bulgoi (Korean BBQ), kimchi (pickled spicy cabbage) and bibimbap (mixed rice). The book promises how to create whole menus from start to finish, both mains and side dishes. The authors begin with the basic larder, move to snacks and starters, and then salads and soups, and so on. Recipes are listed in English, Korean pictographs, and transliterated Korean. Ingredients are expressed in both avoirdupois and metric forms. Desserts and drinks are also included. At the back, there is a resource guide and bibliography. Audience and level of use: adventurous cooks, Korean food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mandu (dumplings); glass noodles; japchae (beef and veggies); udon noodle soup with clams; tuna sashimi salad; sticky rice with dried fruit and nuts. The downside to this book: nothing really, except it might be hard to find some ingredients. The upside to this book: good Korean food primer. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 7. COMPLETE CURRY COOKBOOK; 250 recipes from around the world (Robert Rose, 2008, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0184-9, $27.95 Canadian soft covers) is by Byron Ayanoglu, chef and food writer, and Jennifer Mackenzie, also a food writer and recipe developer. These preps are touted as quick, easy, no fuss, no muss. The ingredients are readily available; no extensive larder is needed. This means canola oil is used instead of ghee or coconut, which is a shame. Shortcuts are highlighted, as well as some prepared foods and sauces. There are 250 international recipes here, from India, Thailand, China, Caribbean, and even England. There are suggestions on how to pair recipes and create menus, as well as complementary preps for raitas, chutneys, relishes, breads and samosas. Many preps would benefit from a mise en place if they are indeed to be quick. Some recipes are tagged “quick sauté” (cook in less than 30 minutes) while others are tagged “slow simmer” (an hour or more). Both avoirdupois and metric units are used in the ingredients listing. No desserts. Audience and level of use: beginner primer. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chilled buttermilk soup; curry-roasted squash and apple soup; sweet mango curry chicken; yellow curry pork; green curry pork; red curry pork. The downside to this book: the authors use no coconut oil/fat or ghee. You don’t need a lot but it is useful in some recipes. The upside to this book: good larger typeface. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 8. THE HEIRLOOM TOMATO; from garden to table (Bloomsbury, 2008, 260 pages, ISBN 978-1-59691-291-5, $35 US hard covers) is by Amy Goldman, a gardener, food author, and the chair of the board of Seed Savers Exchange. All of the photos were expertly shot and framed by Victor Schrager who has also done two previous books with Goldman. Log rolling is by four gardening academics and writers. She pays homage to the growers who bred and introduced varieties. But the name of the game here is biodiversity and the preservation of heritage. This book is a history, botanical guide, gardening primer for tomatoes, cookbook with 55 recipes, and a source book for 90 places to buy seeds (including from Canada). There are full colour photos for 200 varieties, from Abe Hall to Zapotec…yet over 1000 varieties exist in the world. Check out the “Ugly” Tomato, or the incredible-edible “San Marzano” (which gets a whole page). Goldman lists her research for each variety’s origins, size, colour, flavour, best uses, and other facts. Every variety is edible, but some are barely, such as the Yellow Pygmy. She has 55 recipes, mainly for the classics such as ketchup. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there are NO tables for metric conversions. There is a listing of 16 advocacy groups such as Seeds of Diversity Canada, and the book concludes with an extensive bibliography. Audience and level of use: tomato lovers, heritage food lovers, schools of hospitality, reference libraries, gardeners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tomato water; pan bagnat; gazpacho; cherry tomato salad and baked ricotta cheese; cream of tomato soup; grilled beef with stuffed tomatoes. The downside to this book: no index to the recipes – not even a listing. The upside to this book: the portraits of the 200 tomatoes. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 9. IS THIS BOTTLE CORKED? The secret life of wine (Faber and Faber, 2008, 259 pages, $24 Canadian hard covers) is by Kathleen Burk and Michael Bywater, both UK wine writers (although Burk was born and raised in California wine country) and academics. It is an engaging little book comprising some 75 or so Q and A about wine. As the PR bumpf says, “This book is guaranteed to provide readers with a ‘Yes, but did you know…’ answer.” Did you ever wonder what Falstaff was drinking when he quaffed sack? Why does Bridget Jones drink Chardonnay? What did Jane Austen drink? Why do we drink to forget? What is winespeak and wine guru? There is a bibliography of sources and a really good, extensive index – a rarity amongst such eclectic books. One answer a day to accompany your glass of wine… Quality/Price rating: 84. 10. THE URBAN COOK BOOK (Thames & Hudson, 2008, 256 pages, $24.95 US hard covers) is by King Adz, who was at one time destined to be a chef but now works as a film director in marketing and advertising and music, et al. This is a part memoir, part travelogue through five cities: Paris, Berlin, Amsterdam, London, and New York City. His road- trip rules were to use public transport, eat street food, and stay at cheap hotels. In each city he finds five “urban talents” and two recipes apiece. Thus, these are fifty creative recipes for the graffiti generation. URLs abound, and everybody appears to be about 25 years old. Lots of colour and ADD type displays for the photographers, illustrators, fashion designers, digital and street artists, skaters, DJs, club owners, musicians, and Internet entrepreneurs who he located. Street food includes green Thai curry, Turkish lahmacun and kebabs, and Indian chicken bicken. Quality/Price rating: 85. 11. THE CORNBREAD GOSPELS (Workman Publishing, 2008, 379 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-1916-6, $14.95 US soft covers) is by Crescent Dragonwagon, an author who is now a cornbread specialist. It is partly a memoir of her love for cornbread, and partly a history and culture sourcebook. There are anecdotes and bread tasting, illustrating the differences between Southern and Northern cornbreads. She visits the National Cornbread Festival in Tennessee. The 200 plus recipes are both sweet and savoury, for cornbreads, muffins, fritters, pancakes, rolls, tortillas and puddings. The initial arrangement is for cornbread, by region: south, north, and southwest. There is also a separate chapter on international dishes. Then come all the other varieties and desserts. A pantry/larder is discussed with ingredients to keep on hand. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used but there is a metric conversion table. Audience and level of use: corn lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: jonnycakes; Colombian arepas; Greek bobata; Indian makki ki roti; mixed-grain muffins; Craig Claiborne’s spoon bread; corn crepes; hush puppies; cornbread dressing. The downside to this book: nothing I can see or read. The upside to this book: engaging woodcuts by Andrea Wisnewski. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 12. COMPLETE BOOK OF THAI COOKING (Robert Rose, 2008, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0180-1, $24.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by Linda Stephen, a chef who specializes in Thai cooking. The 200 recipes here exhibit lots of flavours like most Asiatic food (spicy, sour, salty, sweet) plus the balance between the flavours. Stephen has some culinary history notes for those lovers of Thai food who want to recreate dishes at home. She has a glossary, a pantry list, advice and techniques, and uses both avoirdupois and metric measurements in the ingredients listings. All foods are accessible from local markets, and Western equipment and techniques are emphasized. She’s upfront about food allergies and dislikes: don’t do any of this if you are allergic to peanuts, can’t take the heat, or don’t like cilantro. All of these can be eliminated from any recipe, but then it wouldn’t be Thai food any more. There’s a curious 17 recipe section on “fusion comfort food”, including meatloaf, carrots in mango juice, and breakfast mashed potatoes. Otherwise, the prep list goes from apps to desserts. Audience and level of use: beginner primer. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Thai Muslim lamb curry; steamed fish with chili lime sauce; Chiang Mai curry noodles; stuffed cucumber soup; Thai potstickers; mini-banana pancakes The downside to this book: there are some meaningless touristy photos. This also makes for a heavier book from the coated paper. The upside to this book: good large typeface Quality/Price Rating: 85. 13. TEN; all the foods we love and ten perfect recipes for each (Workman Publishing, 2008, 455 pages, ISBN 978-07611-3982-9, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Sheila Lukins, long-time food editor and columnist for Parade magazine, and co-author of the Silver Palate cookbooks. Notable log rolling is by Bobby Flay. Basically, this is a good idea: identify foods that we all love the most, and come up with the TEN best ways to cook them. You can dispute both the foods and the preps, but the idea itself is pretty good. The 32 foods include chops (all kinds of meats), pasta, chicken, ice cream, steak, seafood salads (really???), burgers (all meats), cakes, mashed potatoes, BBQ ribs. Veggie soups. She has dishes from top chefs, including one from log roller Tom Valenti (but I couldn’t find one from Bobby Flay). Names here include Judy Rodgers, Jeremish Tower, Anthony Bourdain, and Daniel Boulud. The layout is nice, with a colour plate section with page references. Sources are all US. Avoirdupois measurements are used but there are metric charts. Audience and level of use: basic foods and basic preps for them. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for roasted and baked chicken, she has herb-roasted, roasted brined, Asian scented orange chicken, orange-ginger-tomato chicken, Vietnamese-style, tandoori style, chicken grand mere, Zuni roast chicken, post-roasted chicken, lemon-herbed roasted drumsticks. The downside to this book: too American – we have our own Canadian choice. The upside to this book: good database of important food and their engaging preps. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14. THE COMPLETE WHOLE GRAINS COOKBOOK (Robert Rose, 2008, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0178-8, $27.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by Judith Finlayson, a multiple cookbook author and food journalist. Whole grains have a variety of health benefits, and they also taste very nutty. As well, they are mostly crunchy and/or chewy. Thus, they have the positives of both taste and texture. All courses are here, from breakfasts to desserts, with colour photos to identify the grains used. There’s the usual info on buying and storing and cooking methods. There are a dozen grains and about 150 recipes (most with both regular and slow-cooker methods). Gluten-free grains include amaranth, buckwheat, corn, job’s tears, millet, oats, quinoa, rice and wild rice, and sorghum. Gluten grains include barley, rye, and wheat varieties. She has a section on diabetic food values for each grain, as well as nutrient analyses for the preps. Both avoirdupois and metric measurements are employed. Audience and level of use: basic primer. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: hot millet amaranth cereal; rhubarb and orange muffin; pork pozole; millet-crusted tamale pie; wheat berry gravy; black sticky rice salad. The downside to this book: coated paper makes this a heavy book. The upside to this book: colour picture IDs for the grains. Quality/Price Rating: 87. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 15. THE SWEETER SIDE OF AMY’S BREAD (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 254 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-17074-8, $34.95 US hard covers) is by Amy Scherber, owner of Amy’s Bread in NYC since its launch in 1992. Today, it is in three locations. She also supplies wholesale to more than 300 restos and food stores. She has appeared on many TV shows. Check out www.amysbread.com. She specializes in breads and in muffins, cookies, bars, biscotti, layer cakes, and pastries. There are 71 preps here for most of her products, ranging from breakfast to after dinner desserts. Also included are recipes for sandwiches and sandwich breads. All preps have weights and measures in grams, ounces and avoirdupois volumes. Try cherry cream scones, lemon poppy seed muffins, soft brioche rolls with melting chocolate centres, and coconut cream cake. Quality/Price rating: 86. 16. LATIN EVOLUTION (Lake Isle Press, 2008; distr. By National Book Network, 303 pages, ISBN 978-1-891105-37-1, $38 US hard covers) is by Philadelphia restaurateur Jose Garces, who owns three establishments: Armada and Tinto (both tapas) and Chilango. He is also executive chef of Mercat a la Panxa in Chicago, has been nominated for a few Beards, and was an Iron Chef challenger. This is a collection of contemporary Spanish-Latin American cuisine, as reflected by his restos. The preps are all based on the Spanish Basque region, the Yucatan Peninsula, and the beaches of Ecuador. Each prep has avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. The typeface is large enough to read, especially with the leading. There’s a glossary of foods, with substitutions, and this is followed by a terrific index with that same large typeface and plenty of leading to help locate any recipe. Try crab pozole verde, truffled lamb albondigas with sherry-foie gras cream, lobster with coconut-habanero sauce, pork belly montaditos with garbanzo bean puree, sous vide halibut with chorizo croquettes, and – wait for it – pepita-crusted yellow fin tuna with white bean stew, mole verde, and honey-mustard vinaigrette. Quality/Price rating: 88. 17. THE BIBENDUM COOKBOOK (Conran Octopus, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84091-505-1, $29.95 US hard covers) is by the team of Terence Conran (acclaimed restaurateur and designer, “Habitat” stores), Simon Hopkinson (currently, an award-winning UK food writer, but head chef at Bibendum until 1995), and Matthew Harris, current head chef at Bibendum, where he has worked since 1987). Bibendum, housed in the historic Michelin building in London, has been one of the great restos in the UK for the past 21 years. There are 40 recipes here from Harris, all taken from the restaurant, and arranged by season. There are also 10 classics from Hopkinson, which they claim “have stood the test of time and are still served in the restaurant today.” There are also four dinner menus reproduced on the end pages, two from 1987 and two from 2008. They are virtually unreadable, being purple on purple. What a shame…There’s nothing wrong with the classics such as chocolate pithiviers and crab vinaigrette and piedmontese peppers – they lack the excitement of the newer dishes. There are excellent photographs and historical reproductions of every aspect of restaurant life, as well as extensive text about Bibendum. Recipes have both avoirdupois and metric measurements incorporated with the ingredients. Typical British fare includes devilled lambs’ kidneys on toast, roast pigeon with peas and mint, Sussex pond pudding, and jambon persille with sauce gribiche. Quality/Price rating: 87. 18. MARTHA STEWART’S COOKING SCHOOL; lessons and recipes for the home cook (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 504 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-39644-0, $45 US hard covers) is a “how-to” cookbook, arranged as lessons, and with more than 200 recipes plus techniques. The arrangement is by product, sub- arranged by technique. She begins with lessons 1 – 9 (stocks and soups), with techniques on how to make dashi, pureed soups, and consommé. The next eight lessons are on eggs (how to boil, how to poach, fry, scramble, make an omelet, coddle, bake, make a frittata. Really, really basic stuff. But really, really well presented with 500 photos of techniques and an index. Other categories: meat-fish-poultry, veggies, pasta, dried beans and grains, desserts (how to make soufflé, meringue, genoise, custard, pate a choux, sorbets, and granitas. One complaint: there are no metric conversion tables, which I am putting down to American insularity. There is a separate page at the front, with a box labeled: “This book belongs to”…but it is tacky. Quality/Price rating: 86. 19. BAKED; new frontiers in baking (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-721-1, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito. “Baked” is the name of their endeavour which opened in Brooklyn in 2005. Since then, they have done a ton of TV shows, and have an upcoming series this fall. They do a lot of wholesaling in NYC, such as with Dean & Deluca. But log rolling is still needed – from Martha Stewart and Jacques Torres (see below). Both authors had careers in advertising, and the pizzazz shows in the book. They promote comfort baking, using common everyday products in unusual ways. The 75 recipes cover brownies and bars, cookies, chocolates, candies, drinks, cakes and cupcakes – all the things we lusted for when we were little kids. Nostalgia rules in such as icebox tower cake or sweet and salty cake. One of the best sections is the breakfast chapter, with sour lemon scones, orange almond blueberry muffins, and chipotle cheddar biscuits. Avoirdupois measurements with metric conversion charts. Quality/Price rating: 85. 20. JACQUES TORRES’ A YEAR IN CHOCOLATE; 80 recipes for holidays and special occasions (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 199 pages, ISBN 978-1-584796428, $35 US hard covers) is by the former pastry chef at Le Cirque, who is now dean of pastry studies at the French Culinary Institute in New York. He also has his own chocolate factory, Jacques Torres Chocolate. Judith Choate, author of 21 cookbooks, is the focusing food writer. Torres had his own food shows on PBS and the Food Network, and has written two other cookbooks. All of the recipes are organized by holidays, beginning with January, and running through Valentine’s Day, Mardi Gras, Chinese New Year, St. Patrick’s Day, Easter, Passover, Cinco de Mayo through to the various Christmas permutations and New Year. There is a history of the restaurant and factory, as well as techniques such as molding. Preps appear to be adapted for the home kitchen. All the typefaces are large, with extra leading – making the book a joy to read without eyestrain. The yummy gastroporn pix help too. Try chocolate blackout cake with ganache drizzle, chocolate chess pie, chocolate-covered matzo, mudslides, langues de chat, and pumpkin chocolate cake. Quality/Price rating: 86. 21. THE NEW AFRICAN-AMERICAN KITCHEN (Lake Isle Press, 2008; distr. National Book Network, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-891105-39-5, $21.95 US hard covers) is by Angela Shelf Medearis, who has her own PBS TV show, “The Kitchen Diva!”. She has also appeared on the Food Network with Bobby Flay. She has written four cookbooks, plus over 80 books for children. The 200 recipes, all meticulously researched, come from slave quarters, plantations, church suppers, family reunions, ancient celebrations, and modern ethnic kitchens. These heirloom recipes are arranged by region, including Africa and the Caribbean, and a “making do” section from slave kitchens. There are vignettes of culinary history, anecdotes and quotes, plus tips and techniques where needed. While the ingredients are listed with avoirdupois weights and measures, there are no metric conversion tables. Try Ethiopian party punch, South African pickled fish, Nigerian eggplant appetizer, Caribbean stuffed red snapper, chicken with peaches, crackling cornbread, and lemon chess pie. Quality/Price rating: 89. 22. SAUCE (Gold Street Press, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-934533-14-7, $30 US, hard covers) is by Sonja Lee, a Norwegian chef with a TV show and an Oslo restaurant, Malla, which opened in 2007. She has worked with Alain Ducasse and in restos in the triangle of NY, Paris and London. Here are preps for about 200 sauces, dips, salsas, and spreads; it was originally published in Norwegian in 2007. The intriguing photographs show the creation of the sauce’s ingredients. Her contents are divided into categories such as jus, mayo, oil-based sauces, cream-based sauces, butter-based sauces, and then fruit/vegetable sauces, dessert sauces, and spirit-based sauces. Additionally, she covers dips and salsas and marinades in their own chapters. There are a couple of pages of close type matching dishes with sauces. An informative book, with some log rolling by Chuck Williams. Quality/Price rating: 86. 23. MORE FAST FOOD MY WAY (Houghton Mifflin, 2008, 241 pages, ISB 978- 0-618-14233-0, $32 US hard covers) is by Jacques Pepin, well-known TV chef, cooking school teacher, winner of many Beards and IACPs for his 25 or more cookbooks, etc. This book also has the qualifier “as seen on public television”. He has written, “This is the easiest of my cookbooks for beginners…for people pressed for time or limited by a poorly stocked supermarket...or for any one who wants great food quickly.” His first book in this series (FAST FOOD MY WAY) was published in 2004. The current book is also a companion to the 26-part PBS series that seeks to create simple, special meals in minutes. The 140 recipes are straightforward, and while arranged by course, there are 26 menus with page references to follow along with each show. He has a separate index to “minute recipes” for those super-quick dishes (radish treats, red pepper dip, salmon rolls, rice paper rolls with avocado and sun-dried tomato) – there are 28 of these. He advocates use of the pressure cooker and microwave. Canned food is also useful for beans, tomatoes, peaches, and tuna, as is “ready food” (cheese, olives, smoked fish and smoked meats), condiments, purchased brioche, pound cake, and bread. Some of these preps are make aheads (hours, days), but all of them are indeed quick. Bear this in mind: it is labour intensive, and there is some competitive spirit of a contest in how fast one can make a dish. With Jacques Pepin at the helm, this is larder/pantry cooking at its finest. No wine recommendations. Quality/Price rating: 88. 24. OLIVES & ORANGES; recipes & flavor secrets from Italy, Spain, Cyprus & beyond (Houghton Mifflin, 2008, 372 pages, ISBN 978-0-618- 67764-1, $35 US hard covers) is by Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox. Jenkins, daughter of food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins, has cheffed mostly in New York city; she just opened Porchetta in the East Village. Mindy Fox is a focusing food writer, now food editor at La Cucina Italiana. Log rolling includes pieces by Mario (Batali), Paula (Wolfert), Adam (Gopnik), and Molly (O’Neill). The preps are Mediterranean, but for family reasons there is a strong run of Italian and Eastern Mediterranean dishes. Try Fattouche from Lebanon; Green beans with shaved onion, fried almonds and parmesan; Red onions cooked in orange juice; Pan-roasted Brussels sprouts, turnips, and beets with farm faro; or North African spiced shrimp. She begins with a description of her “flavor pantry” (oils, salts and salty products, grains and legumes, broths, herbs and spices, and cheeses) and then moves on to small plates, salad, soup, pasta-risotto-polenta, fish, poultry, meats, and then sweets. There is a US sources list and all weights and measures are in avoirdupois (with no metric conversion tables). There are no wine recommendations. Quality/price rating: 86. 25. HEIRLOOM COOKING WITH THE BRASS SISTERS; recipes you remember & love (Black Dog and Leventhal, 2008; dist. T. Allen, 285 pages plus, ISBN 978-1-57912-784-8, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Marilynn Brass and Sheila Brass, authors of “Heirloom Baking” which was nominated for a Beard. Both are antique dealers (with a name like brass, what else could you be?) with a penchant for cooking. They are known as “Queens of Comfort Food”, and have been on PBS many times. Here they continue with the “heirloom” motif, moving on from baking to the rest of the menu. These are the 135 classics, collected over many decades and updated for the modern kitchen. They represent over 100 years of cooking in North America. Simple and easy to make, such as zucchini cheese bake, Romanian stuffed cabbage, red velvet cake, milk chocolate pound cake, toasted almond butter cookies, meatloaf, and the like. Plus variations. Arranged by course, the preps use avoirdupois measurements, but there are conversion charts. The resources list has a list of sources, contributors, and bibliography. There are graphics of the original recipes and antique cookware from their own personal collection. And there are spare pages and a folder for you own recipes. Quality/Price rating: 85. 26. FRANK STITT’S BOTTEGA FAVORITA; a southern chef’s lover affair with Italian food. (Artisan, 2008; T. Allen, 270 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965- 302-6, $40 US hard covers) is by the chef and owner of three distinct Birmingham Alabama restaurants. He has written other cookbooks, has appeared on TV, won a Beard and a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Southern Foodways Alliance. Katherine Cobbs is the focusing food writer. This is Italian cooking layered with Southeastern US sensibility. Log rollers include Mario (Batali) again – see above. The 200 recipes include such as parmesan soufflé, duck with peaches and moscato, Tuscan porterhouse, zabaglione meringue cake, baked feta with focaccia, and pizza with wild mushrooms and butternut squash. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used, but unfortunately there are no conversion charts for metric users. He has a listing of the basics and foundation recipes in the pantry section, and there is a description of tools and techniques. Sources are all US. An interesting read with some vivid photos. Quality/price rating: 87. 27. BIKER BILLY’S ROADHOUSE COOKBOOK; adventures in roadhouse cuisine (The Lyons Press, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 222 pages, ISBN 978-1-59921-434-4, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Bill Hufnagle, host of a cable TV cooking show and author of three previous cookbooks. He rides a Harley and hangs out with the “Big Boys” (www.bikerbilly.com). This is a collection of roadhouse recipes, history and lore – over a dozen famed highways such as Route 66 and the Blue Ridge Parkway. All US of course. There are 100 plus recipes here, such as the Whiz Bang sandwich from the Santa Fe Café in Ohio, the chicken and sausage gumbo of Top of the Hill Grill in Vermont, spinach stromboli at Jo Jo’s Pizza in New York state, and the hot-rod mocha java milkshake at the Hop Ice Cream Shop in North Carolina. Arrangement is by course or product, and not (unfortunately) by itinerary. Stories abound from these biker- friendly diners, and each has full addresses and website, and occasionally a black and white picture. Terrific value for those American road trips. Quality/Price rating: 90. 28. THE MAIN; recipes (Whitecap, 2008, 200 pages, ISBN 1-55285-945-2, $29.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by Anthony Sedlak, a chef who had a successful Food Network show entitled “The Main”. This book is a collection of the better recipes featured in the show’s first four seasons (it is now in season five). The focal point of the show and this book is the use of one main ingredient in different and complementary dishes. The 47 meals are arranged alphabetically by the ingredient, from “aged cheddar” to “yogurt”. In between are gnocchi, oysters, pears, prosciutto, corn, crab, and sesame seeds. The format and arrangement are the same for each. For example, under “ground sirloin” we get a lot of classy photos, advice on timing, a recipe for the burger, another for homemade BBQ sauce, cabbage-celeriac coleslaw, and poutine. Weights and measures are in avoirdupois but there is a metric conversion chart. This is such a guy book it should be at the top of any gift list for a man, despite log rolling by Anna Olson and Lynn Crawford. Quality/Price rating: 88. 29. BAREFOOR CONTESSA BACK TO BASICS; fabulous flavor from simple ingredients (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-4000-5435-0, $35 US hard covers) is by Ina Garten, who is a Food Network star (Barefoot Contessa, Back to Basics) and the author of five previous cookbooks. Her book concentrates on the basic elements of simplicity, covering such topics as the best ways to boost flavours in foods, what not to serve at a party, no-cook things to serve with drinks, floral arrangements, and professional advice on entertaining. She also has a questions section with answers to what people ask her all the time. Arrangement is by time of day, such as “cocktail hour”, lunch, dinner, breakfast, plus veggies, soup, and dessert. Some prepared foods are used, such as puff paste. Typical dishes are soft-shell crab sandwiches, plum crunch, tri-berry oven pancakes, roasted pears with blue cheese, and lobster corn chowder. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there is no metric conversion table. Also, the sources quoted are all US. Thirteen menus are presented, but at the end, and they all have page references so you don’t have to look them up in the index. Quality/Price rating: 87. 30. IN THE KITCHEN WITH ANNA; new ways with the classics (Whitecap, 2008, 222 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-946-9, $29.95 Canadian soft covers) is by Anna Olson, a multiple cookbook author and host of many Food Network cooking shows, principally “Sugar”. She and her husband chef Michael also own Olson Foods & Bakery in Niagara. These preps are the tried and true classics, some with inventive modern spins. Her variations are also useful and welcomed. Typical are Canadian minestrone soup, brandied pork terrine with cranberry, turkey salad with dried apricot and marjoram, braised edamame with leeks and miso, and sesame salmon with roasted red pepper salsa. With each recipe, there is a taste note, a technique, and a tale (memoir). Good large print, and the ingredients are listed with both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Arrangement is by course, but at the end, there are some pages of menu suggestions, with page references to the dishes so that you don’t have to look them up in the index. And kudos for spelling “hors d’oeuvre” correctly. Quality/Price rating: 90. 31. THE PALEY’S PLACE COOKBOOK; recipes and stories from the Pacific Northwest (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 232 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-830-5, $35 US hard covers) is by Vitaly and Kimberly Paley, owners of Paley’s Place in Portland, Oregon. He won a Beard for his work in 2005, ten years after the resto opened. Kimberly is food and beverage manager. Robert Reynolds is the focusing food writer. The emphasis, of course, is on fresh, seasonal and local foods from Oregon and surrounding states. It is arranged by course, with a section on the larder/pantry and on cocktails. There are just a few scattered references to Oregon wine, mostly in a food and wine matching context. These wines needed to be highlighted more. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Most of the resources listed are local; certainly, they are all American. Overall, there are too many non-food pictures, but the book does suffice as a record of the restaurant and its preps. Unusual dishes here include pan-fried lamb’s tongue with aioli, snails with bone marrow, poached halibut cheeks, poppy seed- crusted albacore tuna, lamb necks braised in pinot noir, braised elk shoulder, and a cherry-olive oil polenta cake. Great layout and coverage of local foods, especially cheese. But se also West, immediately below. Quality/Price rating: 89. 32. WEST; the cookbook (Douglas & McIntyre, 2008, 250 pages, ISBN 978- 1-55363-357-8, $50 Canadian hard covers) is by Warren Geraghty, the chef at the top-rated Vancouver restaurant, West. He has had extensive London experience, and has been head chef at two Michelin-starred restos. Recipe contributions have also been made by David Hawksworth, Rhonda Viani, David Wolowidnyk, and Owen Knowlton (the latter dealing with wine pairings). Jim Tobler wrote the text. This is a fine example of a restaurant book, with an explanation of how the place is run (with photos) and how the staff meshes. The 100 recipes were crafted with the home cook in mind, and cover the full range of appetizers to desserts and beyond. The resto was originally called Ouest and served French cuisine. It became West and did the local, fresh and seasonal Pacific Northwest food theme. In that respect, it is similar to Paley’s Place Cookbook (see immediately above). But there is just as much lack of detail on regional wines as in Paley, and there is little on local cheeses. There is a more consumer-friendly arrangement, by the seasons, beginning with Spring, and then sub-divided by starters, mains, desserts, and cocktails. Try these: foie gras and goat cheese and apple terrine, quail galantine, crab and cous cous tian, scallops with butternut squash remoulade, salmon with sesame-scented cabbage and smoked salmon gnocchi, pumpkin panna cotta. And there is a larder/pantry collection of sauces and oils and the like. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there is a metric conversion table. Quality/Price rating: 90. 33. MARTY’S WORLD FAMOUS COOKBOOK; secrets from the Muskoka landmark café (Whitecap, 2008, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-929-2, $29.95 Canadian soft covers) is by Marty Curtis, the owner of Marty’s World Famous Café in Muskoka. He opened a Muskoka ice cream parlour in 1996, and then he developed his café, centered on butter tarts, his specialty and secret. He even has some BBQ recipes using butter tarts as a base for the rub and sauce. There is an extensive section on making butter tarts, and he reveals the recipe that made him so famous in Muskoka. I can tell you the secret: lard. Anyway, his baked goods and pies are the best thing about the book since he uses the same pastry recipe (from the Grey Nuns of Quebec) for all of them. These preps include Muskoka maple pie, blueberry pie, cherry pie, strawberry rhubarb pie, pumpkin pie, turkey pie, tourtiere, and mincemeat pie. Other than these, there are recipes for basic diner food. Try smoked trout pate. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there are metric conversion charts. Quality/Price rating: 86. 34. CUISINE A LATINA; fresh tastes and a world of flavors from Michy’s Miami Kitchen (Houghton Mifflin, 2008, 276 pages, ISBN 978-0-618-86750- 9, $30 US hard covers) is by Michelle Bernstein, chef-owner of Michy’s in Miami. The focusing food writer is Andrew Friedman, who has co- authored many cookbooks. Log rolling is provided by Bobby Flay and Anthony Bourdain. These are Latin dishes, neither expressly Floridian nor Cuban. Her work collates the Argentine food of her mother, with its intertwined Latin and Italian roots (Argentine veal Milanesa), the seafood of Florida (fried calamari with chili coconut sauce), some Jewish roots influences (mustard-crusted brisket), and French training (shaved fennel salad). All courses are here but she does one dessert only: a bread pudding. Try Peruvian mixed seafood ceviche, shrimp tiradito with avocado and corn nuts, conch escargot, Cubano sandwich, codfish fritters with tomato stew, Latina bouillabaisse, and spiced crab cakes. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there is no conversion table to metric. Quality/Price rating: 88. 35. ON THE LINE (Artisan Books, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 239 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-369-9, $35 US hard covers) is by Eric Ripert, the chef and part-owner of Le Bernadin, possibly the best restaurant in New York City. Christine Muhlke, a food writer and editor, is the focusing food writer here. The book promises to be inside the world of Le Bernardin: “the stations, the heat, the cooks, the costs, the chaos, and the triumphs” (their words, not mine). This is a story of everyday line work at a major restaurant, and should form a basis for every hospitality student’s culinary studies. Le Bernardin has been around for two decades, and is just one of three New York City restaurants to earn three Michelin stars. There’s a lot of fly-on-the-wall stuff here, real insider info, with photos, charts, tips and advice. It’s a basic primer on how a top notch resto works. Besides the line stress, there are sections on the wine cellar, costing a meal, menus and tasting notes. The cuisine is modern French, emphasizing seafood: 150,000 plates come out of the kitchen every year. There are 50 preps here, in an all-in-one index made hard to read by a light typeface on grey paper. The recipes are given their own section at the back, and, of course, are next-to-impossible to photocopy. Try wild salmon and smoked salmon with apple, celery, and baby watercress and jalapeno emulsion; yellow fin tuna, foie gras, and toasted baguette with chives and EVOO; conch marinated Peruvian style with dried sweet corn; layered crab, avocado, and potatoes spiced with yellow aji pepper sauce; or bacalao salad with avocado. No metric conversion tables. Quality/Price rating: 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR NOVEMBER 2008 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE!! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. ORGASMIC APPETIZERS AND MATCHING WINES; tiny bites with the moan factor (Whitecap, 2008, 232 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-923-0, $29.95 CAD paper covers) is by Shari Darling, a wine educator and wine judge who has a food company “Orgasmic Culinary Creations”. She is also a member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. Here she posits the epiphany moment when perfect food meets perfect wine on your palate. She begins with appetizers, and presumably, (if the book sells well) she’ll move on to mains and sides and desserts, possibly even menus and entertaining. Her first 40 pages here discuss taste relationships between food and wine, their building blocks and taste profiles based on intensity of flavours. “All the recipes – ingredients, herbs, spices, and amounts – have been reworked to be wine savvy and to fall within my Building Block Principles for pairing success.” (p.2). Part Two of the book deals with preps sorted by their applicability to styles of wines. She has 11 categories, beginning with sparkling wines, moving through four kinds of white wines, rose, three kinds of reds, late harvest, ice wines, and fortified wines. For each, she describes the character and flavours, types of grapes and regions, and the best possible food choices. This is what separates Darling’s book from the others which deal with food and wine pairing: she has gone after the best, most epiphany-type taste sensations. A quick check of the food charts of umami flavours shows a high percentage of gouty foods to avoid, if you suffer from raised uric acid levels (as I do): anchovies, sardines, wild mushrooms, fermented foods, cured meats, distilled spirits. Weights and measures for each ingredient have both avoirdupois and metric forms. More details are at www.sophisticatedwino.com and www.orgasmicculinarycreations.com Audience and level of use: those with a strong interest in food and wine matching. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: crisp, dry whites (tuna, green olive, and caper spread; mexicali salsa); big, fat whites (creamy crab tartlets; bacon cheddar melt); off-dry whites (mandarin pancakes with Peking duck; sesame-coated pork skewers); light, fruity reds (caramelized onion and goat cheese crostini; chicken-stuffed mushroom caps). The downside to this book: too much of it is tied into sex (e.g., “tantric twosomes”, “moan”, “titillating”, “wanton”, “virgin”, “orgy” – which is okay if it sells the book. At least there are no explicit pictures. The upside to this book: a good theme, the part about matching great tasting wines with great tasting foods for that epiphany moment. Quality/Price Rating: 89. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. COOL CUISINE; taking the bite out of global warming (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 244 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0392-4, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Laura Stec, a San Francisco chef with concerns over global warming, and a culinary health educator for Kaiser Permanente Medical Group. She has written the book with Eugene Cordero, a meteorology professor at San Jose State University. Together, they have created globalwarmingdiet.org. This is a neat little collection of scientific fact and culinary principles, in order to find new ways to look at the climate crisis. The authors cover the greenhouse effect, fertilizers, methane, the cycle of agro-business and chemicals and global warming system, looking for new ways to decrease the carbon footprints we all create. Just consider: the average North American restaurant produces 275 pounds of waste each day. Or, food transportation accounts for 17% of energy consumption in North America. These all need a carbon footprint label, to go along with the Nutrition Data label. The best way to smallen the footprint is to stay home, eat green, eat more veggies, and do the SLOW technique: Seasonal, Local, Organic and Whole. The first 150 pages cover the problems and the solutions. The last 75 pages are the recipes. The authors have a lot of end notes as well as a resources list. Avoirdupois measurements are used, with metric conversion tables. Audience and level of use: concerned individuals, chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The recipes have been designed for the SLOW principle -- baked millet and quinoa with onion and corn; winter emmer risotto and roasted root veggies; collard greens and black olives; green beans and candied shallots; buckwheat and hard- boiled eggs; slow cooked beef stew. The downside to this book: lacks a discussion on wine, which still needs to be written by someone. The upside to this book: this is an attractive package. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. LESSONS IN WINE SERVICE FROM CHARLIE TROTTER (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 162 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-905-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Edmund O. Lawler, a journalism teacher in Chicago who has written two other books about Charlie Trotter’s, the restaurant, for the hospitality trade. So this book is about the resto, and not about (nor authored by) Charlie Trotter the man. There is additional log rolling from Angelo Gaja, the noted Italian winemaker. Lawler has advice from four or so top rate sommeliers for this book. He outlines and analyzes the development and execution of wine pairings and wine service at Charlie Trotter’s. This means details on how to hire and train staff, provide “intuitive” service, and craft and maintain a wine list. Trotter’s has 1800 different wines with a $2 million inventory and 20 front of house staff trained to pour and describe wines. They advocate a “Wine Experience”, which is a series of two ounce samples of five or more wines. There is also a “Premium Wine Experience” – for $250 a head. They can do it with the new nitrogen systems. This slim book also has a listing of seasonal food and wine pairings. Audience and level of use: educational, meant for hospitality students and other restaurateurs, sommeliers, and wine servers. Some interesting or unusual facts: wine service should be “service oriented”. “Trotter estimates the restaurant breaks about $50,000 worth of the delicate stemware each year.” Riedel, of course. The downside to this book: nothing about pricing or markup policies. The upside to this book: there are chapter summaries of wine services. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. DULCE; desserts from Santa Fe kitchens (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 152 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0489-1, $24.99 hard covers) is from the Museum of New Mexico Foundation; it is one of a series of cookbook fundraisers (actually, this is third), along the lines of community cookbooks. But it is simply one of the most gorgeous such community books I have seen, resplendent with reproductions of paintings held in the local Museum of Fine Arts, crafts in the Palace of the Governors, and other items from the Museum of International Folk Art and especially the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture (which celebrated its 20th anniversary last year). The Foundation is a non- profit organization dedicated to these four museums, as a sort of “Friends of…” group. The 200 recipes are contributed by a committee which collected from people and restaurants, and they are arranged by the principal ingredient or product, such as chocolate, cookies, ices, fruit, tarts and pies, creamy desserts, and so forth. Most of this is non-Southwest dessert territory, Audience and level of use: art lovers, Santa Fe lovers, community cookbook collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Pina Colada cheesecake; bittersweet chocolate and cranberry terrine; Harry’s Roadhouse chocolate cream pie; Mexican hot chocolate ice cream; orange biscochitos; natillas; pinon crumb apple pie. The downside to this book: another cherries jubilee recipe? Or baked fudge? The book needs more local New Mexican preps and native ingredients. The upside to this book: contributors include then Pink Adobe, Quail Run, Terra Cotta Restaurant, Santa Café, and Andiamo Restaurant. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 5. 1,000 GLUTEN-FREE RECIPES (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 700 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-06780-2, $35 US hard covers) is by Carol Fenster, an expert on gluten-free cooking whose preps have appeared in many magazines, and who has written seven previous cookbooks on gluten-free cooking. This is one of Wiley’s “1,000 Recipes” series. All meals and all occasions are covered here, with vegetarian options (highlighted with a V) and quick options (highlighted with a Q). And some preps here avoid dairy; these are indicated with substitutions. The book is arranged by food categories. There are 172 breakfast dishes, 75 sandwiches and soups, 106 pasta and veggie dishes, 205 mains, and 377 desserts. Several named chefs provided recipes for this book. She offers make-your-own flours, such as a sorghum blend. Her book has a concluding chapter on a homemade gluten-free larder, with an inventory such as lemon-pepper seasoning, adobo seasoning, basil pesto, chipotle mayo, buttermilk, and Clementine marmalade. While she has suggested menus, there are no page references given. And many of the baking recipes are not scaled as to weights, only to volumes. Her website www.savorypalate.com has more details and recipes. Audience and level of use: those who cook gluten-free meals. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: French silk pie; dried cherry and nut cookies; sausage with warm lentils and polenta; lemon meringue tart; caprese salad; runzas. The downside to this book: there are no tables of metric conversions. The upside to this book: index clearly shows the V and Q symbols. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 6. SWINDLED; the dark history of food fraud, from poisoned candy to counterfeit coffee (Princeton University Press, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0- 691-13820-4, $26.95 US hard covers) is by Bee Wilson, an award-winning food columnist for the Sunday Telegraph. She had previously written “The Hive” about honeybees. This is a great lively history of food adulteration, covering cultural and scientific history and food politics in a chronological approach through six chapters. The basic scams here are to make money by extending a product: watering it down, prolonging its life, brightening the colours, and adding bulk. This leads to contamination, substitutions, mislabeling, and misnaming. Most of the topics are British (the book was first published earlier this year in the UK). It begins (after a swift survey of food frauds through ancient history) with 18th century scams in the UK, such as fake coffee and fake mustard, and then moving on to pickles made green from copper, candies made brighter from lead, white bread bleached with alum, fake wartime coffee (WWI and WWII) – leading up to fake organics in the present day and the food from China (melamine everywhere, adulterated lard, bad baby formulas). Along the way, processed food, synthetic foods, and preservatives are also covered. The role of Frederick Accum is explored; his investigations led to many swindlers being jailed. Poisoning and cheating, all in the name of greed. Consumer ignorance has always helped the food swindlers: we need to be alert and educated, to read the labels (RTFL). Wilson has end notes, bibliography, and an extensive index. Audience and level of use: foodies, academics, hospitality students, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: “pays special attention to nineteenth- and twentieth-century America and England and their roles in developing both industrial scale food adulteration and the scientific ability to combat it.” The downside to this book: British orientation for the most part. The upside to this book: a great read. Quality/Price Rating: 90. jessica_pellien@press.princeton.edu 7. THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA COOKBOOK (Lebhar-Friedman Books, 2008; distr. National Book Network, 312 pages, ISBN 978-0-86730-931-7, $39.95 US hard covers) is from the CIA. The book says that it is a collection of 375 favourite recipes for the home cook. There are tips and preparation techniques as well. These are self-described as all- time classic faves, but who determines these? This point is never addressed. Typical contents cover apps to desserts, with breakfasts, light fare, beverages and snacks included. There are 40 illustrative techniques shown, such as how to do a creamy risotto or build a coal fire. Tables include showing cuts of meat, cooking times for grains and legumes, grilling times, and metric conversions from avoirdupois weights and measures. The layout of the book is by double columns with a lighter typeface for the ingredients. There are colour photos of plated products, with page references to the recipes. The CIA gives an explanation of a larder and a pantry, plus the importance of a mise en place, proper equipment, and proper seasonings. With all these matters prepared in advance, actual cooking is relatively easy. Audience and level of use: cooks who need a reliable book of recipes. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: New England clam chowder; radish salad with peas; cold roasted tomato and basil soup; bibimbap; tortelli with bitter greens and ricotta; garlic cheese grits. The downside to this book: tiny typeface is used for the index. The upside to this book: sturdy binding, bookmark ribbons. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 8. THE AMISH COOK AT HOME; simple pleasures of food, family and faith (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2008; distr. Simon & Schuster, 204 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-7372-3, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Lovina Eicher, a syndicated columnist (“The Amish Cook”) appearing in 130 American newspapers. Kevin Williams, who assists her here, is the editor of that column. The book is part memoir, part cultural overview of Amish life, and part cookbook. Most of her anecdotes and stories are centered around the family kitchen table. The book is arranged by season, and cooking is expressed through the eyes of an Old Order Amish family who live without electricity, plumbing or automobiles. Her celebrations include weddings, holidays, funerals, and Christmas. She has good pictures of agricultural products, larders and farm implements. This is easy comfort food, simple to make. While the weights and measures are in avoirdupois, there are no metric conversion tables. Audience and level of use: those interested in a slower life, ruralists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: dandelion jelly; stuffed mushrooms; rhubarb cobbler; ham and pea salad; zucchini patties; sausage and noodle dinner; sauerkraut supper. The downside to this book: just a lack of metric conversion tables The upside to this book: good commentaries. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 9. A REVOLUTION IN TASTE; the rise of French cuisine, 1650 – 1800 (Cambridge University Press, 2008, 317 pages, ISBN 978-0-521-82199-5, $32 US hard covers) is by Susan Pinkard, a modern European history Ph. D. now teaching at Georgetown University. It is a historical survey which tries to answer the questions how and why did French cuisine develop a philosophy that a meal is to be savoured and not devoured? And that dining is an experience? that restaurants developed first in France (as “restorer”). All of this is Parisian, of course, rather than French, and comes from the Ancien Regime. Her chapters deal with historical recipes and culinary techniques, Parisian high society and the court relative to fine dining, haute cuisine vs. bourgeois cuisine, horticulture and gardening, diet and medicine, the rise of a wine culture, and the development of the modern taste. She relies on cookbooks from La Verenne (1651) and Bonnefons (1656) for the earlier material, and provides a sharp commentary on the food articles in Diderot’s “Encyclopedie” (1772) – this is the main range of her survey. There are 80 recipes and variations from the early modern French kitchen, all sourced and all updated: lots of sauces, soups, bisques and joints, fish, and veggies. The extensive bibliography has both pop and scholarly materials, and there are also footnotes for further explanations. Audience and level of use: culinary historians, food libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: In referring to the pre-1650 period, “cuisine was artifice: perfection was achieved when flavors fused so completely that it was hard to guess what the individual components were”. My comment: some global fusion food served in today’s restos is still like this. The downside to this book: the general reader might shy away from its scholarly nature. The upside to this book: a good explanation of the complex cultural meaning of food. Quality/Price Rating: 90. dshannon@cambridge.org 10. THE HARNEY & SONS GUIDE TO TEA (Penguin Press, 2008, 227 pages, ISBN 978-1-59420-138-7, $25.95 US hard covers) is by Michael Harney, the tea buyer and blender of Harney & Sons for twenty years. He is assisted by Emily Kaiser, an associate food editor at Food & Wine magazine. His book is a compendium of the 56 teas every connoisseur ought to know, starting with the delicate white teas to aged puarh tea. His categories in between include Chinese green tea, Japanese green tea, oolongs, yellow teas, Chinese black tea, and “British legacy” black teas. For each category and type, he gives a background, description of several sub-types, br4ewing temperatures and times, what the leaves look like, aromas to smell and body and flavours to expect. In his appendix, there are tea-tasting menus, a brief history of teas, and descriptions of the various harvesting and treatment processes. At the end of his book, there is a bibliography and a list of suppliers (some are only online) Audience and level of use: confirmed tea drinkers. Some interesting or unusual facts: tea is sourced from China, Japan, Taiwan, India, Sri Lanka, and Kenya. The downside to this book: it can be technical at points. The upside to this book: quite thorough and interesting. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 11. A TASTE OF CANADA; a culinary journey (Whitecap, 2008, 258 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-911-7, $34.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by Rose Murray, well-known Canadian food writer and author of nine cookbooks. Here she attempts to discover Canadian cuisine. The book is part memoir, part travelogue, part cookbook. In trying to discovery Canadian cuisine, she finds that it is a reflection of who we are by region and ethnic group, not a reflection of Canadian foods. Her book is arranged by course, from starters to desserts, with special features on Jerusalem artichokes (also known as sunchokes), tourtiere, pork, dried beans, fiddleheads, wild rice, cranberries, maple syrup, pumpkins, rhubarb, and apples. These are what could be considered “Canadian foods” since they feature in much of the wide country’s cuisine. Murray gives us both classic and contemporary preps (such as butter tarts in phyllo), using regional ingredients and regional menus where possible. The latter includes a Christmas dinner in Newfoundland, a Maritime buffet, a Quebecois sophisticated supper, an Ontario midsummer grill, a midnight sun supper from up North, a Prairie brunch, and a BC picnic in Stanley Park. There are also generic menus for national distinct holidays such as Canada Day and Thanksgiving. Audience and level of use: lovers of Canadian cuisine, the curious Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tourtiere turnovers; wild mushroom and back bacon risotto; wild rice pancakes with sour cream; wine-pickled salmon; grilled arctic char; seafood pot pie; maple glazed grilled peameal bacon. The downside to this book: too many non-food pictures, and not enough plated examples. The upside to this book: she uses both avoirdupois and metric weights and measures for ingredients listed in the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 12. A SPRING WITHOUT BEES; how colony collapse disorder has endangered our food supply (Lyons Press, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 292 pages, ISBN 978-1-59921-432-0, $27.50 US hard covers) is by Michael Schacker, an investigative science writer with The New Earth Institute. He looked into WHY many bee hives disappeared. Over 100 food are pollinated by bees, some exclusively: almonds, raspberries, kale, chives, onion, cherries, tangerine, and watermelon. When bees disappear, so does food. It could all lead to Civilization Collapse Disorder through lack of food. The use of imidacloprid (IMD) has been blamed for the bees dying off, especially when research shows that IMD was first used in France in 1994, and the bees exhibited colony collapse disorders (CCD) at that time. IMD lowers insect resistance to predators, organisms and viruses. Banning IMD brought the bees back to France. Surprisingly enough, this information had been suppressed in North America. Schacker reveals all. The obvious solution is organic pest control, sustainable agriculture, no IMD, regenerative farming, and essential oils. There are copious end notes and appendices of government documents. He also has lists of areas in the US where CCD has happened, farmer solutions, and lists of groups and suppliers. Audience and level of use: conspiracy fans, concerned food people. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Organic” bees do not have CCD. IMD, used to control pests, is similar in molecular structure to DDT. Hmmmm… 10% of 2.4 million hives in the US in 35 states in 2006/2007 disappeared. In 2007/2008, 36% of hives disappeared. The Bush-led EPA loosened pesticide regulations starting in 2004. Hmmmm… The downside to this book: there is extensive logrolling by academics and public interest groups, including Anthony Rodale who once employed the author. The upside to this book: very readable Quality/Price Rating: 89. 13. GARY RHODES 365 (Michael Joseph, 2008; distr. Penguin Books, 480 pages, ISBN 978-0-718-15315-1, $45 Canadian hard covers) is by Gary Rhodes, author of 17 cookery books in the UK (“Great British Classics”, “Time to Eat”, et al.). Here he presents one recipe per day for a variety of different occasions. The chapters cover breakfasts, feeding midday snacks to kids, suppers for one or two, entertaining on Saturday night, Sunday lunches with family, and afternoon teas. He also has ideas for special occasions such as Valentine’s Day, Easter, and Christmas. Weights and measures are in both avoirdupois and metric. Audience and level of use: standard family fare. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: baked Vacherin cheese; toasted ginger figs; grilled mackerel with calvados apples; cumberland sausage with red onion tart; chicken with porcini and chestnut mushrooms; macaroni and cauliflower with four cheeses. The downside to this book: this is a British book, so you’ll have to watch the vocabulary. The upside to this book: there is a generous selection of recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 14. THE ESSENTIAL COCKTAIL; the art of mixing perfect drinks (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 274 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-40573-9, $35 US, hard covers) is by Dale DeGroff, founder of the Museum of the American Cocktail and author of “The Craft of the Cocktail”, an IACP Child winner. He was also the bartender at New York’s Rainbow Room where he re-introduced the cocktail menu in 1987, a menu that used only fresh ingredients. This current book has 100 essential drinks (Black Velvet, Champagne Cocktail, Manhattan, Mint Julep, Rob Roy, et al) plus 100 or so best variations, all of course using fresh ingredients and nothing from a package. Topics include martinis, sours, highballs, and punches. There is a primer section on bar prepping, highlighting garnishes, glassware, and tools. His resources section has a bibliography, listings for industry news, informational websites, bar supplies, foods for garnishes and purees. Audience and level of use: his clients and students, hospitality students. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sgroppino al limone; banshee (banana grasshopper); millionaire’s manhattan (expensive ingredients); port cobbler; rainbow punch. The downside to this book: some preps may prove complicated or have “hard to obtain” ingredients. The upside to this book: good photos Quality/Price Rating: 86. 15. CHOCOLATE (Octopus Publishing, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-0-600-61904-8, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Stephen Lagorce; it was first published in French by Hachette in 2007. The book is shaped like a chocolate bar, with a brown cover and a silver-foiled slab for the book, like a Hershey Bar...with 40 ounces net weight and a slipcase cover, about 14 inches by 7 inches in size. It’s probably a winner of innovative packaging for the year. The basics covered include how to taste chocolate, how to store after purchase, common accompaniments (such as wines, liquors, coffees, cigars, spices), and advice on cooking techniques. This is more of a gift book as it sparsely runs through the various forms of chocolate and chocolate products (dark, white, milk, powders, spreads, grand crus, etc.). Additional material covers chocolate festivals around the world, should you want to travel. Audience and level of use: chocolate lovers, gift recipients. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: essentials only, such as icing, ganache, fudge, butter cream, gateau, macaroni, soufflé, truffles, and pound cake. The downside to this book: a little short on textual material. The upside to this book: packaging is fun, Quality/Price Rating: 83. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 16. THE ATLAS OF FOOD; who eats what, where and why. Rev. and updated (University of California Press, 2003, 2008, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-520- 25409-1, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Erik Millstone and Tim Lang, both UK academics in policy studies. After it came out in 2003, it was awarded an Andre Simon Best Food Book Award. In the important issues of global food and agriculture, here have been a lot of changes in the past five years. All of the tables and facts have been updated through 2007 where possible. Today’s food concerns revolve around contamination (food and water), over-nutrition, micronutrient deficiency, processing, basic farming, and trade issues. The authors argue that human progress depends on resolving global inequality and creating a more sustainable food production system. There are good graphic illustrations to help the lay person understand such concepts as organic food, fast food, alcohol, eating out, food additives, processing giants, changing diets, land ownership, fair trade, aquaculture, greenhouse gases, et al. Great source list too. Quality/Price rating: 89. amy.cleary@ucpress.edu 17. CLASSIC FRENCH COOKING (Spruce, 2004, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 337 pages, ISBN 978-1-84072-875-0, $16.99 US hard covers) is by prolific cookbook author Elisabeth Luard, who has also won many food awards. CLASSIC ITALIAN COOKING (Spruce, 2005, 2008, 333 pages, ISBN 978-1- 84072-956-6, $16.99 US, hard covers) is by prolific food writer and Italian specialist, Valentina Harris. CLASSIC SPANISH COOKING (Spruce, 2006, 2008, 333 pages, $16.99 US, hard covers) is also by Elisabeth Luard. All three books have just been uniformly reissued as part of a separately purchased series. Each book has just over 100 “classic” preps, with colourful illustrations throughout. The pages are heavy in weight, and there are two book mark ribbons for convenience. Each book has metric conversion charts, large typefaces, and notes on the respective pantries for French, Italian and Spanish cooking. The Spanish book also has a bibliography, but it is the only one here with that additional feature. Covered are, of course, risottos, pastas, ragu, gazpacho, chorizo, tortilla, paella, ratatouille, brandade, etc. We’ve seen it all before, but this is a good price, engagingly presented. Quality/Price rating: 85. 18. WINDOWS ON THE WORLD COMPLETE WINE COURSE, 2009 edition (Sterling, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 340 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-5746-4, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Kevin Zraly, an award winning wine expert and long-time sommelier of that late, lamented restaurant atop the World Trade Center. This has been newly revised and expanded, with pages of new material on how to taste wine. It has frequently been revised since its first edition in 1985. Now it has been redesigned in layout, and with more recommendations in his tour of the latest vintages. Over 20,000 students have taken Zraly's courses and workshops. This is the text that comes with the courses, and as such, it serves as a suitable book for almost any introductory wine course. It certainly does address the needs of students and beginners: the style-format is "question and answer", on what wine is, tasting wine (how to taste wine over sixty seconds), wine service at home and in restaurants, storage and cellaring. He avoids the markup controversies in restaurants; however, one can compare a number of different sections and conclude that he favours 3 to 4 times the wholesale price. The bulk of the arrangement is by "classes", with ones for white wine, red wines, champagne, fortified, and wines from outside France and the United States -- still in the Q & A format, augmented by a continuous stream of sidebars and tidbits which extend the answers. Throughout, too, there are full-colour reproductions of wine labels. The book concludes with a glossary and a pronunciation key, as well as bibliographic notes for further reference reading. Quality/Price Rating: 90, 19. THE RIVER COTTAGE MEAT BOOK (Hodder, 2004, 2008; distr. McArthur, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-340-82638-6, $29.95 soft covers) is by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, a UK writer and Channel Four broadcaster. He lives at “River Cottage” in Dorset, and fights for real food and meat in England. This is his third cookbook in the River Cottage series. It was published in 2004, and here gets a paperback reprint at a reduced price. The original edition sold 165,000 copies, so lots of people are eating lots of meat. This is a tightly researched, from a British perspective, book on meats such as beef, lamb, pork, poultry, and game. There is a side excursion into offal. 40% of the book is about meat; the rest is about recipes scattered amongst cooking techniques with their own chapters (roasting, slow cooking, fast cooking, barbecuing, preserving and processing, and using leftovers in soups and stocks. There is a bibliography and a British resources list of suppliers. He includes a small section on a dozen mood categories, with page references. So for “Sheer Comfort”, we can have cold roast beef open sandwich, rice pudding pork, daube, beef in stout, Irish stew, red flannel hash, spaghetti Bolognese, and others. All the dishes we associate with the UK are here, such as steak and kidney pie, jugged hare, roast belly of pork, roast grouse, oxtail stew, pork pie, and roast beef (the full monty, he says). Of course, his shepherd’s pie is made with lamb. Many more details are at www.rivercottage.net. Quality/Price rating: 89. 20. THE WILLIAMS-SONOMA COOKBOOK; the essential recipe collection for today’s home cook (Free Press, 2008, 464 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-7592-4, $34.95 US hard covers) is from Weldon Owen Inc, a packager in San Francisco. There are more than 250 Williams-Sonoma stores in North America. According to the publisher, this is a “virtual greatest hits of the previous thirty-two titles” published in the Williams-Sonoma line. They total some 1300 recipes, and 370 of them have been culled for this book in a single volume. All courses are here, from apps to desserts, along with 200 or so colour photos. The only thing missing would be beverages. There is a collection of basic recipes, a glossary, and some charts on measurements and substitutions and oil usage. Ingredients in the recipes have both avoirdupois and metric measurements. Try classic crab and shrimp salad with avocado, roasted beets with bitter greens, roast salmon with warm lentils, braised oxtails with olives, grilled corn with chipotle butter. You are not far away from California. Quality/Price rating: 89. 21. CITRUS; a history (University of Chicago Press, 2007, 2008, 252 pages, ISBN 978-0-226-47028-3, $17 US paper covers) is by Pierre Laszlo, a European professor emeritus of chemistry and author of “Salt: Grain of Life”. It was previously published in 2007; this is just the paperback reprint. Nearly 100 million tons of citrus are produced globally every year, and Laszlo traces the rise and spread of the global phenomenon, from Southeast Asia through North Africa to modern Spain and Portugal. The fruits were introduced to the Americans as part of the Columbian Exchange. Laszlo deftly explores the role of citrus in agriculture, horticulture, cooking, nutrition, religion and art. There are also 20 colour plates of advertising, posters, archival pictures, paintings, and current photos. There are a dozen and a half recipes, such as orange wine, lime chutney, candied strips, ugli duckling, and, of course, marmalade – all in avoirdupois but with no metric conversion tables. The “selected notes” at the end combine end notes and bibliography in a satisfactory fashion, and include websites. There is, of course, an index. Quality/Price rating: 90. ldawson@press.uchicago.edu 22. NOTES ON A CELLAR-BOOK (University of California Press, 2008, 349 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-25352-0, $29.95 US hard covers) is the 1920 classic by George Saintsbury. It has been edited and annotated by Thomas Pinney, author of the two volume “A History of Wine in America”. It has always been held in major esteem as the pinnacle of British wine writing style, and it remains one of the greatest books in the literature of wine. Every important wine of consequence from around 1920 is commented on, and many times the wines appear to be epiphanies. The book is a collection of tasting notes, menus, anecdotes, recollections, and opinions. Pinney and the publisher, with the financial support of Saintsbury Winery (named in honour of George Saintsbury), provide explanatory end notes to take care of arcane material. Pinney has also written an essay on the book’s legacy. Of value to scholars and wine lovers everywhere are the extra 40 pages of Saintsbury’s other wine writings. There’s a bibliography, and of course all the contents here have been re-indexed. Quite an achievement. Quality/Price rating: 90. amy.cleary@ucpress.edu 23. HOW TO BE A BETTER FOODIE; a bulging little book for the truly epicurean (Quadrille Publishing, 2006, 2008, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1- 84400-641-0, $10 US paper covers) is by Sudi Pigott, a UK food writer and restaurant reviewer. The book, with some self-humour, tries to give the reader some gastro-credentials. We’ve seen it all before in other foodie books: enough material to get you through a cocktail party of entertaining dinner. If you screw up the conversation, just laugh at it and blame the book. In this case, though, the emphasis is on the UK picture. Arcane knowledge may be great at parties (“when I was last in the UK, the…”), especially when sourced form a little known book. Contents: how to be truly greedy with appearing so; cooking kit; foodie kitchen; foodie library; foodie wardrobe; table manners; recherché nibbles; unusual delicacies others ignore; leftovers and holdovers; q and a quizzes; gastro memberships; gastro-seasonal ingredients and festivals to note. And the grand finale, the oh-so-British “Better Foodie Christmas”. Great fun at this price level, Quality/Price rating: 88. 24. THE FEARLESS GOURMET; decoding menus from around the world (MQ Publications, 2006, 2008, 289 pages, ISBN 978-1-840729658, $14.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by Norman Kolpas, a cookbook writer. It is a reissue of the 2006 UK book. The publicity material says that it is packed full of useful food terms, ranging from deciphering menus to shopping for groceries in many countries. Its sturdy cover, bookmark ribbon, and size make it easy to pack and take with you on trips. The emphasis is on “how to order like a local.” Arrangement is by region, beginning with Europe and the UK first. This is followed in turn by Africa and the Middle East, Asia and the Pacific (watch out for those Ozzies and Kiwis), and finishing with the Americas. Canada gets four pages, mostly “habitant” dishes, such as pea soup, pemmican (jerky), poutine, soupe a l’ivrogne (salt pork, onions, bread cubes, beef broth), tarte au sucre, tourtiere, and voyageur stew (when did you last have voyageur stew?). Well, that’s what the world thinks of Canadian cuisine. The rest of the book? Quality/Price rating: 85. 25. THE REAL GREEK AT HOME; dishes from the heart of the Greek kitchen (Mitchell Beazley, 2004, 2008, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-451-2, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Theodore Kyriakou and Charles Campion, the former a renowned Greek chef and the latter can award-winning restaurant reviewer. It was originally published in 2004; this is the 2008 paperback reissue. They explore the cultural, religious, and economic influences on Greek food. The emphasis here is on home meals, peasant food, with a wide range of recipes from the classics to celebrations (using lamb dishes). The book is divided into three areas, the cities (more sophisticated food), the Ionian islands, and the Aegean islands. Thirty pages are devoted to Greek essential dishes, the various mezzes and dips, and there are chapters for Easter lamb dishes and festival foods. Travel pictures dominate, and there is even one showing the skinning of a dead rabbit. Both metric and imperial measurements are used for each ingredient. Try iman bayeldi, Christmas pork with figs, chicken sofrito, rabbit mountain style, tsoureki Greek Easter bread. Quality/Price rating: 85. 26. THE FIRESIDE COOKBOOK (Simon & Schuster, 1949, 1977, 2008, 325 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-8967-9, $30 US hard covers) is by James Beard. It was originally published in 1949. There are 1217 dishes here, that number being the total of the recipes and all the variations. This is a full-colour facsimile edition of a 60 year old work. The type face for the ingredients listing is a little small for comfort, and of course avoirdupois is used throughout with any metric conversion tables. Mark Bittman, in his foreword, calls the recipes “Frenchified, now overcute”. While it is a dated book, there is a helluva lot here that Americans just were not doing in the 1950s: making pasta from scratch; creating hundreds of appetizers; how to cut-up chicken; using garlic and oil as a sauce. There are also almost 450 colour illustrations here. It is a delicious piece of Americana. Quality/price rating: 87 on a sentimental basis. 27. COUNTRY LIVING ONE-DISH COUNTRY SUPPERS; delicious casseroles, frittatas, roasts and stews (Hearts Books, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 127 pages, ISBN 978-1-58816-718-7, $19.95 US hart covers) comes from the US magazine, “Country Living”. It is a selection of recipes, chosen for their ease and simplicity, for every taste and occasion. Of course, you can do them all in a skillet, Dutch oven, or slow cooker. And some great ideas for that next pot-luck Church social. The arrangement is by principal ingredient such as meat, seafood, poultry, and vegetarian. Every recipe comes with nutritional information, and there are technique tips scattered throughout. Try andouille and black- eyed pea chili, Korean-style short ribs, smoky pork chops with cabbage and apples, barbecued smoked sausage and lima beans, and curried butternut squash. About 80 recipes, no metric conversion tables. Quality/Price rating: 88. 28. CAMBODIAN COOKING (Periplus Editions, 2005, 2008; distr. Ten Speed Press, 96 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-5039-1, $19.95 US hard covers) is by Joannes Riviere, a French chef who is an authority on Cambodian cuisine. The book was originally published in 2005 as a find raiser for “Act For Cambodia”, which provides care for landmine victims and runs a cooking school. Typically SE Asian in style (balanced salt-sweet- bitter-sour), the dishes feature peasant foods: curried fish cakes, stir-fried chicken with chilies and cashews, stuffed cucumber soup, khmer raw veggies, banana sesame fritters. There is an ingredients section here for easy of shopping and larder preparation. Absolutely gorgeous colour presentations of plated dishes. Quality/Price rating: 90. 29. DRINKS (DK, 2005, 2008, 512 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-4138-2, $19.95 US, soft covers) is by Vincent Gasnier, who is an Master Sommelier – and the youngest one to ever get the MS! He’s a multiple award winner and currently is a writer and private consultant. This book, with its more than 1200 colour photos, is now in a compact (but not updated) paperback edition. It was $65 Canadian in its hardcover version. I suppose that if you had to choose one book to cover all alcoholic beverages, then this would be the one, especially since it is so widely available at a discount through such places as Amazon.Ca. Otherwise, coverage is broad and redundant. Wine is covered in 140 pages, spirits in 115 pages, beer in 98 pages, cocktails in 60 pages, and ciders in ten pages. They are arranged within their separate sections by country, with the name of the grape or product, region, a description, and a list of recommended producers. About 1000 “drinks” are covered and illustrated. There is basic stuff on buying, storing, and serving drinks, what foods they go with, and where and when to enjoy the libation. Gasnier does give a good range of tasting notes, stressing colour, aroma, and taste. Each product is illustrated by a bottle or label. There is a glossary and an index. This is now a value-priced, great gift book. Running heads under the page numbers (plus the pastel colours) help to quickly retrieve the name of the wine or spirit. Quality/Price rating: 90. 30. GOOD HOUSEKEEPING STEP BY STEP COOK BOOK (Hearts Books, 1997, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 576 pages, ISBN 978-1-58816-760-6, $29.95 US hard covers) has been announced as a “new edition” yet the copyright notice remains as “1997”. Here are 1,000 recipes, with 1800 photos and 500 techniques. About a quarter of a million copies of the earlier edition had been sold. Arrangement is from appetizers to desserts. Each section begins with a technique, complete with how-to photos and a finished plate presentation. Other diverse recipes using the same technique follow, thus ensuring variety of plates for every occasion and taste profile. Basic techniques include making omelets, pan-frying, rolling out pastry, and the like. There are plenty of sidebars with additional cooking info, menu planning, food safety, a glossary of terms, nutrition guidelines, entertaining tips, and choosing wine. Metric equivalent charts are on the end pages, as are roasting charts and substitutions listings. Really basic stuff for really basic people, but I hope the users are young: the book weighs Quality/Price rating: 89. 31. PARKER’S WINE BUYER’S GUIDE, 7th edition (Simon & Schuster, 2008, 1513 pages, ISBN 978-0-7432-7199-8, $35 US soft covers) is by Robert Parker, the noted numerate wine writer. The book is also available hard bound, for $65 US. His first edition was in 1995, and over the years the only real changes were with recent vintages or some slight re- tasting. But this time, he has wisely decided to incorporate the Parker team, the tasters who already write up whole sections of his Wine Advocate newsletter. But you won’t find this information in the publicity material from the publisher’s catalogues. There are five named contributors to the Parker team, and thus this team production is new and different from all of Parker’s previous editions. And of course, this is rightly so since most of the book is based on his bi- monthly newsletter, a sort of cumulation. The newsletter is expensive in Canada; I stopped subscribing when it hit $90US (the exchange rate was brutal). In fact, I get most of my wine information from the Internet. I can buy fine wines with the money I saved after not renewing all my wine subscriptions. Anyway, love him or hate him or be neutral, Parker is the best all round guide to wines priced high or low – and a bargain price for the paperback. Here is a major reference work to recent vintages, prices and ratings for 8,000 wines, with a primer on buying, storing, aging, serving, etc. To do it all, the book is densely packed with a small typeface. He has a special section: “dark side of wine” which covers internationalization of grape varieties, excessive winemaking manipulation, inflated restaurant markups, greed, wine writer ethics, and other topics. While there is a bibliography of books and magazines, there is no listing of websites. One comment for Canada: Parker persists in listing Eisweins from Germany and Austria, but none from Canada. In fact, nine BC and 10 Ontario table wines are simply mentioned – but no ice wine. What gives? Hey, these are award winners, easily better than the other Teutonic stuff. Quality/Price rating: 93. 32. RICE, SPICE, AND ALL THINGS NICE (Simon & Schuster, 2006, 2007, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-8473-7049-5, $29.99 Canadian, paper covers) is by Reza Mahammad, a UK TV chef who also runs The Star of India in London. This is the paperback reprint, now making its way into Canada, Here are 80 recipes, mostly from North and Central India. Despite some log rolling by Hugh Grant, the book’s emphasis is on spicing. The photos are a mixture of plated dishes and travelogue, while the text is enlivened with appropriate tips and anecdotes. Both avoirdupois and metric weights and measures are used in the ingredients listings. Try crunchy semolina biscuits, duck varuval, banana-leaf-wrapped sea bass, crispy okra, or lamb in black pepper sauce. No microwavers need apply. Quality/Price rating: 86. 33. REAL FAST FOOD (Overlook Press, 1995, 2008, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1- 59020-115-2, $17.95 US paper covers) is by Nigel Slater, who has won six Glenfiddich awards for his writing and art direction, is food correspondent for The Observer, and hosts a UK TV show. This book was originally published in 1992 with a 1995 revision, but despite and announced 1,000,000 copies in print, it still needs log rolling from Jamie Oliver and Nigella Lawson. Lawson, by the way, in her introduction, retracts her log roller from an earlier edition. Hmmmmm…..There apparently have been no changes to the text (there is no new copyright date), and although the acknowledgements thank two people for their photos and drawings, none of these illustrations appear in this paperback reprint. Indeed, even the bibliography has not been revised, deadheading in 1994. There are 350 recipes, emphasizing simple techniques and semi-aggressive flavours for a 30 minute completion time. Of course, like all such books, you will need a good larder- pantry and a mis en place. If you have the earlier editions (and there should be 1,000,000 of you readers who do), then you won’t need this one. But on the other hand (OTOH), it is a good collection of fast and ready dishes, at an affordable price. Quality/Price rating: 84. 34. THE PAINTER, THE COOK AND THE ART OF CUCINA (Conran Octopus, 2007, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-84091-495-5, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Anna Del Conte, who was the first cookery writer in England to specialize in Italian food. Her books have won many prizes. This book was originally issued in England last year, and here makes its North American debut. This is a food-travel book, going through six Italian regions (Piedmont, Veneto, Liguria, Le Marche, Puglia and Sardinia) which she assures us are relatively undiscovered by English-speaking visitors. This is not entirely true, since the cuisine, wines and foods of the Piedmont and Veneto are certainly well- known. From Piedmont there is risotto, bollito misto, bagna cauda, and white truffles. The arrangement is by region, from North to South. Most of the recipes come from other sources such as cookbooks and chefs and local cooks. Del Conte provides a vivid framework for each region, describing the food (cheeses, olives, breads), festivals, and historic lore, but no wines. There are reproductions of about 100 colour food paintings by Val Archer. For my tired eyes the typeface is large and there is extra leading. Try the classics of rabbit with olives and pine nuts (Liguria), fish soup (Le Marche), eggplant stuffed with sausage (Puglia), or Sardinian pasta. Quality/Price rating: 89. 35. EATING DISORDERS: the facts. Sixth edition (Oxford University Press, 2008, 255 pages, ISBN 978-0-19-955101-9, $24.95 paperback) is by Suzanne Abraham, an academic at the University of Sydney, and co- director of their Eating Disorders Unit. It is a basic guide covering anorexia nervosa, bulimia nervosa, and obesity. The book was originally published in 1984, and has been regularly revised over the years. Each disorder is described as to origin (why), diagnosis, and treatment. Topics include adolescent eating patterns, sexual maturation process, problems that family and friends also face (with advice on coping). “This sixth edition contains numerous case history outlines, which provide insights into the minds of the eating disorder sufferer.” It is well-indexed, allowing readers to quickly find what material they need. Good resource book. Quality/Price rating: 90. 36. PERFECTION SALAD; women and cooking at the turn of the century (University of California Press, 1986, 2008, 282 pages, ISBN 978-0-520- 25738-2, $16.95 US soft covers) is by Laura Shapiro, who had originally wrote the book in 1985. It is here reissued with a new nine page afterward that brings us up-to-date. Otherwise, the book and bibliography are intact. It is now one of UC’s fine “California Studies in Food and Culture” series. Her book is essentially a history of early home economics where fat played a big role (mayonnaise, cream sauce) and veggies were boiled to death. All in the name of nutrition, which could apparently cure more than just health issues – it also included social issues. “Perfection salad” was the ultimate dish, because it was so perfect: chopped cabbage, celery, red peppers, bound by a plain – and later, tomato – aspic. Unfortunately, for some strange reason, “perfection salad” as a term is not indexed – you’ll have to look under the generic “salads” on pp.90-96, and begin reading until you find it. Quality/Price rating: 90. 37. @HOME, WITH LOVE (Penguin Books, 2008, 330 pages, ISN 978-0-14- 300857-6, $39 Canada oversized soft covers) is by Julie LeClerc, author of “café@home” (2003) and “feast@home” (2004). This current book is a straight reprint and collation of both books. Each has maintained its own pagination and index, so you’ll have to look things up twice, a minor nuisance. LeClerc is currently food editor for the New Zealand “Woman’s Weekly”; she was formerly a chef and caterer. This single volume offers some 200 all-purpose recipes, with an emphasis on family, friends and social dining. Unfortunately, she mixes metric weights with avoirdupois volumes in her ingredients listing. Still, there is something for everybody here, with lots of lamb recipes. Quality/Price rating: 84. 38. THE COMPLETE BEST OF BRIDGE COOKBOOKS, volume 1 (Robert Rose, 1980, 2008, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0206-8, $29.95 spiral bound) is by the bridge team of Karen Brimacombe, Mary Halpen, Helen Miles, Valerie Robinson, and Joan Wilson. The material, 350 recipes, comes from the first two books in the series, “The Best of Bridge” and “Enjoy!”. Over the years, through self-publishing and self-marketing, all of the bridge books have sold over 3 million copies. Here, they are being reissued in sequence, with continuous pagination and a new index. The publisher has redesigned the book, which includes new photos of plated preps. The food is pretty basic (there have been no changes to the original recipes), so the book forms a primer and first cookbook for those who are shy about cooking. What could go wrong with spiced tea? Or tacos? Oat muffins? Cheesy scalloped potatoes? Ingredients are listed with both avoirdupois and metric measurements. Hopefully, there will be a cumulative index to the whole run. Quality/Price rating: 90. 39. THE FOOD ENCYCLOPEDIA (Robert Rose, 2004, 2006, 701 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0150-4, $49.95 hard covers) is by Jacques L. Rolland and Carol Sherman, with other contributors. It apparently contains all the 4,000 entries found in THE COOK’S ESSENTIAL KITCHEN DICTIONARY; a complete culinary resource (Robert Rose, 2004, 413 pages, ISBN 0-7788- 0098-9 $19.95 paper covers) by Jacques L. Rolland, an experienced food expert. All of the other entries have been collated by Sherman and her team of five contributors. The current book has some food history, etymology, anecdotes, and cultural notes. There are over 8,000 definitions (doubling the older book); this is an alphabetical listing for food names, beverage names, recipe titles, cooking terms and techniques, 120 biographies of prominent people and chefs, with two columns to a page and deftly illustrated for many entries. It includes UK, US, French, Italian, Asian and other languages. Ancillary matter includes sidebars and lists of cheeses under the main “cheese” entry, and descriptions of pasta and shapes under the “pasta” entry. And similar lists under “rice” for some of those varieties. But the entry for Cornish pasty still does not give the order of the food inside the dough. There are food quotations and anecdotes (mostly humourous) plus drawings of veggies. Some typical entries: luganega is a Northern Italian pork sausage similar to kielbasa; the history of the fork covers two columns. There are cross-references to additional entries (these are in bold face), and there are plenty of “see” references. Quality/Price Ratio: 88. 40. CHILI MADNESS; a passionate cookbook. 2d edition (Workman, 1980, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 204 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-4761-9, $12.95 US paper covers) is by Jane Butel. It was originally published in 1980. Currently, she owns a cooking school in Albuquerque and Corrales New Mexico. This second edition claims more than 130 new recipes – out of 160 in total. This makes it a brand new book. The classics are maintained: Pecos River bowl of red, authentic Texas border chili, Georgia chain gang chili, red chili nightmare. Fire dragons all, with lots of historical and hysterical details. Milder chilis are chipotle chili and white lobster chili. There are also some festive new recipes that round out the chili meal: appetizers, sides, breads, desserts, and drinks. She even covers leftovers (I’ve never seen any chili leftovers in my life!). This is a fabulous re-birth of an important culinary work. Quality/Price ratio: 97. 41. BILLY'S BEST BOTTLES; wines for 2009. 19th edition. (McArthur and Company, 2008, 178 pages, ISBN 978-1-55278-747-2, $19.95 Canadian paper covers) is by Billy Munnelly, a well-known wine writer in Ontario. I got it too late for inclusion in my annual gift article, wherein I discussed other wine annuals. The wines in Billy's listings are all available at the LCBO in Ontario; most will also be found in other provinces and American states. He leads off with several dozen wine picks and series of "best" wines – arranged by “what’s new, hot and happening” for pizza, for BBQ burgers, steak, romance, movie at home, under $15, etc. His "Wine Spectrum Chart" (also at www.billysbestbottles.com) is for food and mood matches, based on fresh wines, medium (body) wines, and rich wines, subdivided by white and red. This is the "Six Pack" approach to wine drinking. Each wine has advice on how to serve plus plenty of food matches and ideas. It can be too cute in style. This edition has some 300+ wines, all “best buys” from around the globe, and with a label shot as well so you can see what the bottle looks like. Many are under $12, but there are only a few under $10. At the back there is a section on touring Ontario wineries (Prince Edward County, Niagara, and Lake Erie regions). There is an index to the wine by country, with a page reference to the entry. This is a good shopping list if you make a photocopy of these pages. His book exhibits a no-nonsense commonsense approach to wine. He has more details at www.billysbestbottles.com. Quality/Price rating: 90. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR OCTOBER 2008 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE!! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE BEER BOOK (DK, 2008, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-3982-2, $25 US hard covers) has been pulled together by Editor-in-Chief Tim Hampson. There are 14 contributors (with bios), but no signed reviews or entries. Most of the beers are bottled, but there are some from microbrew pubs. There is a pix of a beer bottle or can or pump for all the major beers covered. The directory-type data includes names and addresses, websites, and a mini-capsule history. There are also maps which include the US, Germany, UK, Belgium, and the Czech Republic. There are more maps of “Beer Trails” in Oregon, Bamberg, Cotswold’s, Brussels, and Prague. There are features on the biggies Anheuser-Busch, Brooklyn, Guinness, Hoegaarden, Pilsner Urquell, and others. And essays on tasting, malts, German beer, lager, hops, glasses, wild beer yeasts, and beer-food matching. There is a glossary and index to beers, as well as space for your own tasting notes. Audience and level of use: beer drinkers who like to read. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Canada gets six pages for Amsterdam, Creemore, Granville Island, Pumphouse, McAuslan, etc. 27 labels in all are covered for Canada, with 2 to 4 beers apiece. The downside to this book: needed more on Canada – also why was there Labatt and Molson coverage? The upside to this book: great package. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE BON APPETIT FAST EASY FRESH COOKBOOK (John Wiley and Sons, 2008, 770 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-39912-5, $34.95 US hard covers) has been pulled together by Barbara Fairchild, the Editor-in-Chief of Bon Appetit food magazine. The book proclaims, “1100 quick dishes for everynight cooking”. So at three courses a night that comes to a year’s worth of relaxation in the kitchen, maybe with time for a drink or some chatting. Not. Advanced preparation is the rule – you just cannot do this kind of cooking night after night by contemplating food choices at 4 PM and picking up stuff on your way home. And you’ll need space for a large pantry of ingredients to have on hand. Nevertheless, this is a great, definitive all purpose recipe book for every quick and easy situation. Hundreds of contributors are listed at the end, but there is no contributor index for their recipes – just an index by the recipe itself. The table of contents lists the titles of all recipes in page order, and this is useful for an overview. “Quick and easy” is full of compromises and shortcuts. Quick stews use packaged broths and tender meats – what you will need if you don’t start a slow cooker in the AM before work. Most recipes can be done mostly in advance or with careful use of leftovers. Why wait until the last minute, unless you like living on the edge. But if it gets you away from fast food home delivery, then more power to the book! Your best choices for quick and easy remain the appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, pizza, pasta, rice, chicken, and seafood. There is a drinks section, alcoholic and non-alcoholic. There is an index to recipes and an index to serving sizes, beginning with 1, 2, and then 4, 6, 8 – right up to 24. Audience and level of use: the harried, those with ADD. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there are three gazpacho preps, plus a dozen other chilled soups, and there are 16 stews. The downside to this book: all of the recipes are in avoirdupois, and there is no metric conversion chart. Apparently, they couldn’t find a spare page, although the inside covers are often used for this kind of information in this kind of book. Also, there are no indication of total timings for each recipe’s prep and cooking times, as a separate category or cook’s note. The upside to this book: the layout is attractive and useful, with two recipes per page. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. 1001 WINES YOU MUST TASTE BEFORE YOU DIE (Universe, 2008; distr. Random House, 960 pages, ISBN 978-0-7893-1683-7, $36.95 US hard covers) is a whopping book package put together by the publisher under General Editor Neil Beckett, formerly an editor for Harpers Wine & Spirit Weekly and now editor of The World of Fine Wine (quarterly), from which, presumably, most of this book is derived. There is some logrolling with an introduction by a colleague, Hugh Johnson. Beckett is assisted by some 44 named contributors such as Belfrage, Coates, Jefford, Johnson, Mayson and Tom Stevenson. There are four sections: sparkling wines (100 pages), white wines (290 pages), red wines (440 pages), and fortifieds (90 pages). The odd rose turns up in the sparkling (Mateus Rose of all things!) and under the reds (Chateau Simone Palette). Unfortunately, there is no Tavel or Sasha Lichine’s Rose which sells for over $100 a bottle. So these are not all expensive wines, just some classics from around the world. Blue Nun is here too. Canada gets two wines, both icewine and both from the Okanagan (Mission Hill SLC Riesling and Inniskillin Vidal). So what’s wrong with Ontario?? Don’t we do the best icewine in Canada? Didn’t Inniskillin’s Niagara Icewine win the big prize last century at VinExpo? The overall aim of the book is to make choosing the right wines easier. The contributors explain what makes each wine special and when they will be at their best. There is even room for some anecdotes for some of the wines. On average, there is a half-page for each wine, plus space for a label photo. There are also some extraneous photos of vineyards, wineries, and winemakers, but these just tend to be too generic and unfortunately just eat up space. The main use of this book is as a checklist for the wine connoisseur: how many have you tried? You can match your notes and your skills to the book. All the important regions are here, of course, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chianti, Napa, Barolo, Rioja, Barossa, Mendoza, Maipo, Alsace, etc. There is a glossary and contributors’ bios. There are also many separate indexes by producers, by price ranges, and by regions. However, the indexing by price ranges is all screwed up with many Grand Crus ending up in the under $20 range. How about Grace Family Cabernet Sauvignon for under $20? Maybe that’s the price for a sniff. I guess the publishers can blame it all on the computer. Unfortunately, those dozen or so expensive wines that are listed in the cheapie section are NOT also listed in the expensive section where they should have been located. Other interesting wines available for under $20 include Sassicaia, DRC St. Vivant, and some Chambertin (one spelled incorrectly)… Audience and level of use: this seems to be a gift book. Buy it and spend an hour looking through it before you wrap it up. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The downside to this book: dreadful price range index, and ill-informed at some points. The upside to this book: browsable and entertaining Quality/Price Rating: 84. 4. THE BEST CASSEROLE COOKBOOK EVER (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 640 pages, ISBN 978-0-8115-5624-9, $24.95 US paper covers) is by prolific cookbook author Beatrice Ojakangas. There are 500 recipes here. Casseroles have been defined as a blend of inspiration and what’s at hand. But some of what’s here are not really casseroles. For example, there’s a prep for slow-baked peaches that is just peaches and sugar, slowly baked in an oven, in a dish. So there are not really 500 “casseroles”, which I would define as a dish with layers and more than two ingredients. “Casserole”, of course, is named after the physical deep dish. So you can just make it up as you go along, so long as you have some kind of deep dish to put it in. A classic would be stifado (Greek beef casserole with onions), or even the Languedoc “cassoulet” which shares a root word with casserole. There is something here for everybody, including picky eaters, kids and vegetarians. The range is from appetizers through breakfasts and brunches, mains, sides and desserts. There are the stews, the chunky soups, the egg and cheese strata and frittata, the baked pasta, and so on. There is a chapter on basic sauces and broths; she uses no convenience foods such as canned soups. The index is detailed, and avoirdupois measurements are used with a table of metric equivalents at the end. Audience and level of use: beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chili-cheese omelet squares; currie3d mushrooms; chicken and asparagus breakfast pie; hash brown crusted potato pie; hot pepper strata. The downside to this book: some dishes are not really casseroles, although they do use the baking process. The upside to this book: a goodly number of preps. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 5. BEES; nature’s little wonders (Greystone Books, 2008; distr. Douglas and McIntyre, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-321-9, $26 Canadian hard covers) is by Candace Savage, who writes popular natural history books such as “Crows” and “Prairie”. Commercial honeybees are the primary pollinators for 90 or more fruit and vegetable crops (such as almonds, oranges, and blueberries). But they travel around the country, by truck, on a lease basis: the colony goes to the agricultural patch, much the same as migrant workers. It appears that the stress of movement and pesticides weakened the immunity of bees to mites and viruses, leading to colony collapse disorder (CCD) for about a third of US colonies. Savage gives us these details as well as the history of the honeybee, opportunities for conservation of pollinators, cultural details via sidebars and nuggets, as well as some material on myths and poetry. The illustrations are mostly historical, and the book is a nice package to read. There is a bibliography (endnotes and websites too), plus an index. Audience and level of use: the curious, the foodies wishing to know more about bees. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: honeybees live about five weeks. The upside to this book: you read this book right through at one sitting, or a little at a time. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 6. THE ILLUSTRATED KITCHEN BIBLE (DK Books, 2008, 544 pages, ISBN 978- 0-7566-3974-7, $35 US hard covers) is by a book packager, with Victoria Blashford-Snell as editor-in-chief. She runs her own catering firm, teaches, acts as a presenter on UK TV, and has written eight popular cookbooks. Here she assembles 1000 preps plus some 3,000 colour instructional photos for techniques. She has menu planners, shopping lists, easy step developments, an idea of what can be made ahead, and ideas for both leftovers and holdovers. All courses, all foods, and all seasons are covered here. Each prep has an indication of serving numbers, prep times, and equipment needed, and storage time lengths. Each of the three categories (starters, mains and sides, desserts) has a special table of contents that lists the title of the recipe, a short one or two line description, a small picture, prep times, and storage times, and of course the page reference. Sub-categories for the three larger groups include a breakdown by topic. For example, for starters, there are topics like seafood starters, snacks on toast, weekend brunch, healthy snacks, party bites, hearty soups, etc. Audience and level of use: beginners, general cookbook purchasers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: herbed fish goujons, anchovy and olive bruschetta, sesame shrimp toast, sausages with lima beans, ginger cream sauce. The downside to this book: a 90 minute DVD was announced to accompany the book, but it appears to have been cancelled. Bummer. The upside to this book: nice collection, affordable, the usual DK presentation of colour. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 7. GLUTEN-FREE BAKING WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (Adams Media, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 260 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-613-4, $18.95 US paper covers) is by Richard J. Coppedge Jr., a baking professor at the CIA. About 1% of North Americans – almost 4 million people – are affected with celiac disease. And it is on the rise. Here, Coppedge shows us how to use alternatives to gluten to bake favourite dishes, usually the basic such as bagels, quiche, upside down cakes, tarts, etc. He has devised five blends of flours, each making about 1.5 pounds worth. The blends are rated as to sensitivity levels. All the recipes use one of these blends for prepping a dish. And all of his recipes are also scaled, so you have volumes and weights listed side by side with the ingredients. Web sites are listed for more guidance. Audience and level of use: those who need to cook gluten-free (or reduced gluten) foods. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pumpkin bread; pecan pie; beef pot pie; double-chocolate muffins. The downside to this book: you’ll need to keep a special pantry. The upside to this book: everything is easy to follow, with nutritional information per serving. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 8. THE WINE PLANNER; selecting the right wines to complement your favourite food (Adams Media, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-721-6, $16.95 US hard spiral bound) is by Chris Hambleton, now a full-time wine educator in the UK. After the usual chapters on the basics of wine knowledge, the arrangement of the book is by flip card sheets. Here the reader can see food and wine matches. There are four categories on a “page” – appetizers, mains, desserts, and cheeses. You can mix appetizers with other mains, and then match the appropriate wines. So a dinner with an app of bresaola, pasta Bolognese, carrot crème brule, and comte cheese will have a California Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Muscat Vin de Glaciere. But if you go for a baked Alaska, then you can substitute a California sparkler. Change to a game terrine for an app, and you can offer a New York Pinot Noir. Brand names are mentioned, and so are price ranges. Most of the wines cited are available in Canada. About 200 wines in all are here, and all are numbered so that you don’t get lost. Audience and level of use: beginner level or those needing a food and wine matching refresher. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “I have found that, however good the food in front of you is, it can be totally ruined by a bad choice of wine. And, conversely, your favourite bottle of wine can be overpowered by your dinner.” The downside to this book: the flip sheets are easy to rip out. The upside to this book: interesting, provocative concept. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 9. CHAMPAGNE COCKTAILS (New Holland, 2008; dist. Canadian Manda, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84773-231-6, $12.95 US spiral hard bound) is by David Biggs. And 10. 101 CHAMPAGNE COCKTAILS (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-16942-1, $16.95 US hard bound) is by Kim Haasarud, a beverage consultant who has also authored a series of “101” books on martinis, margaritas, and sangrias. Biggs has a lot more extra stuff about history and archival photos. Haasarud gets right down to it. She has a huge collection of modern cocktails; many just have champagne added to existing martinis or other drinks. There’s nothing wrong with that, just as there is nothing wrong with using only “sparkling” wine. The recipes for Buck’s Fizz are basically the same (champagne and orange juice), except Biggs adds ice cubes, and Haasarud does not add ice but adds grenadine for colour, with optional gin. Similarly, the Mimosa in Haasarud is just orange juice and champagne. With Biggs, he encourages you to also add triple sec. Chacun a son gout. Audience and level of use: home bartenders. The downside to this book: a shortfall of preps in the Biggs book. The upside to this book: I like the format of the Biggs book, with its spiral binding. Quality/Price Rating: Haasarud gets an 88; Biggs gets an 82 – this is based on price only, since for four bucks more you can get another 41 recipes. 11. THE EDIBLE SERIES: -HAMBURGER; a global history (Reaktion Press, 2008; distr. Univ. of Chicago Press, 152 pages, ISBN 978-1-86189-390-1, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Andrew F. Smith, who teaches culinary history at the New School in NYC, and is editor of The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. -PANCAKE; a global history (Reaktion Press, 2008; distr. Univ. of Chicago Press, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-86189-392-5, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Ken Albala, who teaches history at the University of the Pacific (and writes culinary history books). -PIZZA; a global history (Reaktion Press, 2008; distr. Univ. of Chicago Press, ISBN 978-1-86189-391-8, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Carol Helstosky, who teaches history at the University of Denver and also writes foodbooks. These three books are the beginning of the Edible Series, given a nice cachet by being distributed by the University of Chicago Press. Briefly, each book has historical and archival illustrations, and each book covers the international history of what many believe to be solely American fast food. There are about a dozen or so sourced recipes, both historical (e.g., Salisbury steak) and modern (e.g., turkey burgers). Each book has a select bibliography, websites listings, and names of associations. And each book is indexed. Smith’s “Hamburger” begins with White Castle in 1921, and goes on to the big three (McDonald, Burger King, Wendy’s). Hamburgers brought on the fast food lifestyle, especially with recognizable and consistent diners for car drivers. Internationalization followed, and there are fast food takeouts all over the world. There’s a section here on the world’s most expensive hamburger using Kobe beef, foie gras, and truffles. Throw in a glass of Chateau Petrus and you are looking at a grand a serving. The “Pizza” book moves from the Neapolitan poor to Italy’s official pizza sanctioning body (Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana) which calls for a really hot oven. And then to franchises such as Pizza Hut and Domino’s. The “Pancake” book covers the US flapjack, the French crepe, the Egyptian katief, and the Indian dosa. The franchises are the Original Pancake House (founded in 1953, now with 90 outlets) and the International House of Pancakes (1958, now with 900 outlets). Coming up in the series are upscale books on “Caviar” and “Lobster” (is there a caviar franchise chain anywhere?), as well as beverages and desserts and other fast foods such as hot dogs and fish & chips. For some reason, chicken is not on the list of upcoming books… Audience and level of use: popular food historians, culinary historians in general. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pizza neapolitana, rustica, Sicilian, Chicago deep dish, pissaladiere; palacsinta (Austro- Hungarian), Breton galette, socca, and latkes. The downside to this book: if you want to find stuff about the world’s most expensive hamburger, you have to look under “Daniel Boulud”. There is no entry for “expensive”. The upside to this book: a smart looking series, affordable. Quality/Price Rating: 88 12. IT’S 5 O’CLOCK SOMEWHERE; the global guide to fabulous cocktails (Sixth & Spring Books, 2008, 147 pages, ISBN 978-1-9333027-62-3, $17.95 US hard covers) is by Colleen Mullaney, who has also authored “Punch”. Here the 60 preps have a global theme, so there are cocktails from around the world. There is a section on bar basics plus a playlist for entertaining. They can be downloaded from iTunes, or maybe you already have them. From the UK there is passion fruit martini with Coldplay, and The Tartan, with soundtrack from “Four Weddings and a Funeral”. From the Caribbean, there is Rum Swizzle with Peter Allen, Mudslide with Bruddah Kruz, and Firefly with Bob Marley – among others. Audience and level of use: party drinkers who need music. The downside to this book: nice idea, but needs more drinks. The upside to this book: good content. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 13. JUST CHOCOLATE (New Holland, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84773-233-0, $12.95 US hard covers) is by Kathryn Hawkins, a UK cookery writer and food stylist. It is a small book, but it does have 80 or so preps that cut across cakes, pies, muffins, puddings, tarts, and parfait, with both hot and cold desserts. Basic information at the beginning covers how chocolate is made, what determines quality, and a history of its “feel good” function. The short bibliography covers only 10 other books. Her list of 29 top chocolatiers in the world includes five from France, two from Belgium, plus, of course, www.bernardcallebaut.com in Canada. Audience and level of use: beginners, chocolate lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chocolate swiss roll, chocolate and cherry puffs, chocolate and apricot tart, chocolate and ginger pudding, chocolate box gateau. The upside to this book: spiral binding, good value. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 14. HOT DRINKS (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 96 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-804-4, $16.95 US hard covers) is by Louise Pickford, a UK food writer and stylist who now works out of Australia. Her contents are hot chocolates, coffees, teas, spiced punches, and the like (including some milky drinks). It is all pretty straightforward for about 50 preps. Audience and level of use: beginning level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Catalan coffee punch; ginger and lemon tisane; eggnog latte; hot spiced rum chocolate. The upside to this book: easy to put these preps together. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 15. SOUPS; no-fuss recipes for hearty soups (Ryland Peters & Small, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 96 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-730-6, $16.95 US hard covers) is by Tonia George, Food Editor of the UK’s “Waitrose Food Illustrated”. This is another basic book on a food course. The 50 preps include some variations on old faves. All have photos of the plated product. There is a recipe section on accompaniments such as oils, relishes, butters, puff pastry treats, croutons, and rolls. Audience and level of use: beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: zucchini, lemon thyme, and feta loaf; parsnip, chorizo, and chestnut soup; chicken avgolemono; chilled avocado soup; spiced carrot soup. The upside to this book: there are metric conversion charts. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 16. EAT FEED AUTUMN WINTER; 30 ways to celebrate when the mercury drops (Stewart Tabori & Change, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-719-7, $35 US hard covers) is by Anne Bramley, a food podcaster and broadcaster. All the preps here have been developed from her podcast “Eat Feed”, which claims 50,000 listeners a month at www.eatfeed.com. She states that most home cooks do their serious cooking in the winter months, with lots of holidays, many birthdays, and cool or cold winter entertaining. Up here in Canada, we can add Spring to that list. In the Tudor household we rely on salads all summer long. So this book is all about stocking a pantry or freezer. All the ingredients in this larder are cross-referenced to the recipes. You’ll need apples, pears, beans, grains, dried fruits, and citrus. From flesh, you’ll need braising cuts, charcuterie, cheese, and game. The winter veggies are crucifers, roots and squash. She has 30 menus with sidebars; you can also mix and match courses. All 100 preps have avoirdupois measurements, but there are metric conversion charts. Audience and level of use: home cooks Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: duck breasts with grapes; stout-glazed lamb chops and colcannon; gingerbread with butterscotch sauce; wild mushroom toasts; wild rice pilaf with cherries and pecans; smoked fish cakes. The downside to this book: this is a large production for so few recipes. The upside to this book: good idea for home cooking. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 17. BOTTLENOTES GUIDE TO WINE; around the world in 80 sips (Adams Media, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 246 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869- 787-2, $14.95 US spiral bound) is by Alyssa Rapp, who founded Bottlenotes, a customized wine club service and wine special events firm. Some material here has been abridged from the “Everything Wine Book, 2d ed, 2005”. Thus, this is a basic primer with history, different types of wine (red, white, sparklers, fortified), regional guides, and a short analysis of trends. She mentions up and coming countries of interest, such as Argentina, Austria, South Africa (up and coming?), Israel, Lebanon, India and China. But Canada? Eventually, we find out that there are three kinds of tasters: those who prefer lush fruity wines; those who prefer bold and tangy wines (young, zesty); and those who prefer mature and spicy wines. There is a glossary, but no bibliography. Try www.bottlenotes.com for more details. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: wine consumption in North America has almost doubled since the turn of the century, a mere eight years ago. The downside to this book: more details needed on Canada. The upside to this book: spiral binding is very useful. Quality/Price Rating: 18. MARKET VEGETARIAN; easy organic recipes for every occasion (Ryland Peters & Small, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-720- 7, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Ross Dobson, a Sydney, Australia-based food writer with ties to the UK and USA. There’s no compelling reason why you have to use organic food. The author does not make a case for it, and besides: if you really want to be organic, then you also have to follow through with organic olive oil, organic balsamic vinegar, organic butter, organic cream, etc. Nevertheless, the book is attractive for its reliance on fresh market food. He opens with how to buy food at such a market, but then this will also depend on where you live. The arrangement is by course, from appetizers to desserts. The recipes are easy to follow, although it would be useful too if you had a pantry. Websites and mail order firms are listed, but all are US. The pix, as always, are great. Audience and level of use: beginners, vegetarians, market shoppers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: potatoes and parsnip croquettes; vegetable potstickers; braised fennel with polenta; chile- roasted vegetables with soft goat cheese; paella of summer vine vegetables with almonds. The downside to this book: the word “organic” appears to be just a marketing ploy, so to speak. The upside to this book: avoirdupois measurements are augmented by a metric conversion chart. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 19. FRIDAY NIGHT DINNERS (Random House Canada, 2008, 309 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35675-8, $50 Canadian hard covers) is by Bonnie Stern, a cooking school owner who also writes cookbooks (she has a Beard) and columns, and appears on television. Her HeartSmart titles have sold over 300,000 copies. Oh yes, she’s also Canadian…The emphases in her most current book is on the Friday Night Dinner Jewish traditions. This is not necessarily a kosher cookbook since it has wider applications. There are 25 menus for a relaxed Friday night, dining with fast suppers in a casual style. There are makeaheads, easy adaptations, and variations. Menus include a comfort dinner, an Italian dinner, Thanksgiving, as well as an Israeli dinner, Passover, and Rosh Hashanah. A check of the index shows that there are no pork or seafood dishes, The 170 preps are actually good for any working day of the week. I used to have a Moody Monday dinner just to shake loose the trauma of beginning the work week. There is a strong Mediterranean influence here (both ends of the Med). Weights and measures are expressed in both avoirdupois and metric formats. Audience and level of use: nice for ideas. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grilled pita with zahtar; butternut squash ribbons; chocolate bark with almonds, ginger, and orange peel; porcini-rubbed grilled veal chops; couscous with nuts and seeds; salmon piccata with lemon and asparagus. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 20. RAISING STEAKS; the life and times of American beef (Harcourt, 2008, 402 pages, ISBN 978-0-15-101202-2, $26 US hard covers) is by Betty Fussell, a free lance writer who contributes to Gastronomica, Food & Wine, Saveur, New Yorker, et al. She has also written ten previous books, one most notably on corn. Log rolling comes from Marion Nestle and Michael Pollan. This is a scholarly book, with copious endnotes, a bibliography of trade journals and books and foodbooks, and index. The 21 or so recipes, all indexed under “recipes”, come from a variety of sources, all acknowledged. Her story of beef is one best told through a series of historical clashes, from the British pastoralists vs. the Spanish ranchers, through buffalo vs. cattle, cowboys vs. industrial machines, up to and including natural vs. growth hormones. She covers breeds (e.g. Angus), feed and anti-biotics, slaughtering and abattoirs, packaging and distribution, with details on butcher shops, tanneries, steakhouses, the role of Chicago, and buffalo meat (much better for you than beef). There are lots of facts and figures, augmented by reproductions of archival posters, paintings and photos. For us in Canada, there are occasional references, with headings in the index such as “mad cow disease” and beef imports Audience and level of use: the academic food reader. Some interesting or unusual facts: “…the flimsy stipulations of the feed bill went unenforced in the United States and Canada. Sixty percent of sampled feeds labeled “vegetable only” were found to contain animal proteins, and more than 80 percent of firms handling feed forbidden to ruminants failed to label it as such. The ban on beef imported from Canada…was no better enforced.” The downside to this book: no websites are listed in the resources section. The upside to this book: good historical survey. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 21. ANDREW JEFFORD’S WINE COURSE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-723-8, $29.95 US hard covers) is by the winner of eight Glenfiddich writing awards. Jefford, a UK wine writer, has also collected many other awards, such as for best wine writer of the year in 2006 and 2007. This is another basic primer, structured much like a class. Contents are threefold: first up are “The Tools” (how to taste, drink and learn, wineglasses, decanters, and so forth. There are three projects that you must do here. After that, you move on to the next level, “The Elements”, with its five projects revolving around grapevines and styles. It is here that we learn Zinfandel is a third-level grape, like Vermentino. The last – “The Journey” – is the pilgrimage, with its 12 projects on countries and regions. So that’s 20 projects in all, enough for a month. There is just one page on Canada, and that is mostly Ontario and mostly icewine. Sidebars are used extensively, but no question-answer formats. It is all from a UK perspective. Jefford does not go overboard about USA wines. So that keeps everything in balance. There is a glossary and an index, but although reading about wines is encouraged, there are no lists of recommended books or even suggested readings or websites. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “…wine is necessarily complicated. Dozens of countries; tens of thousands of producers, all of them producing a new vintage every year: this is something that cannot be simplified.” The downside to this book: too much vivid writing. The upside to this book: the graphic layout is impressive. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 22. AFTERNOON TEA PARTIES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-724-5, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Susannah Blake, a cookbook author (for Ryland) on delicate things such as coffees, teas, cupcakes, toast. Here she has 20 menus and setups, such as a Teddy Bears’ Picnic, Champagne Tea, Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day, Baby shower, Moroccan tea, French tea, Russian tea ceremony, Japanese tea, Classic English tea. Calm and tranquility are stressed. There are avoirdupois measurements but metric conversion charts are included. These charts appear to be standard with Ryland, Peters & Small (thanks, guys)… Audience and level of use: tea lovers, gift book lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for a Gentleman’s Tea, she recommends Yunnan tea, soft-cooked eggs with asparagus spears as dippers, smoked mackerel pate on toast, drop scones with cinnamon butter, and rich fruit cake. The upside to this book: there is a list of useful websites, and the photos are generally excellent. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 23. TODAY’S SPECIAL; a new take on bistro food (Quadrille Books, 2008; distr. Ten Speed Press, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-8440-614, $39.95 CAD, hard covers) is by Anthony Demetre, co-owner and chef at the award- winning Arbutus and Wild Honey restos in London. Indeed, these recipes all come from those two restaurants, and it doesn’t hurt to have Gordon Ramsay as a log roller. This is basic bistro fare for weekdays and casual entertaining on the weekend, but with contemporary viewpoints. There are main courses intended as an entire meal without sides. Chapters are by main food, such as fish, poultry, beef, lamb, vegetables and pork, with wraparounds dealing with soups and desserts. He uses “local”, “seasonal” and cheaper cuts to produce the dishes. Most of the intro matter and recipes listings are unreadable since they are black type on dark coloured paper. But there is an index, and the book starts out terrifically with chilled cucumber soup with smoked salmon, mutton broth, roast saddle of rabbit with shoulder and leg cottage pie, slow-cooked shin of veal with roast bone marrow, roast peaches with lemon thyme and vanilla. Both avoirdupois and metric measurements are used. Quality/Price rating: 85. 24. A16 FOOD + WINE (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 278 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58008-907-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Nate Applebaum (executive chef of A16 and SPQR in San Francisco) and Shelley Lindgren (wine director at A16 and SPQR). Kate Leahy, an editor at “Restaurants & Institutions” magazine, provides writing clarity. Logrolling is especially heavy here, with six endorsements from major wine and food people such as Matt Kramer, Joe Bastianich, and Paul Bertolli. This award-winning resto specializes in Southern Italian food, especially the flavours of Campania. “A16” is the name of the highway that cuts across southern Italy. Wines are from Southern Italy, and they are covered in the first 60 pages, with pairings for the food with the food recipe. The food covers pizza from Naples, zuppa, pasta, seafood, poultry, beef, veggies, and a separate chapter labeled “The Pig”. There’s a bibliography and website listing for the wines, but the food resources list is all US. Preps are all expressed in avoirdupois, but with no metric equivalent table. Try summer vegetable cianfotta soup, borlotti bean and mussel soup, coppa di testa headcheese, pork loin spiedino, braised pork shoulder. Quality/Price rating: 87. 25. BRITISH SEASONAL FOOD (Quadrille, 2008, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1- 84400-622-9, $49.95 CAD hard covers) is by Mark Hix, who headed the consortium that owned Le Caprice and other restos in trendy London, UK. He has just opened Hix Oyster and Chophouse in the Smithfield market. He’s also a celebrated food writer (“The Independent”) and cookbook author, garnering several major awards for his latest book “British Regional Food”. Here he takes on seasonality, helped along by over 200 colour photos. This is a British book, so everything here is also local in terms of the islands. The book is a month-by-month arrangement of seasonal best foods, January to December. For January, there is mallard game and Cornish cauliflowers, along with pennywort and Judas ear fungus. February is gurnard. March is wild garlic leaves (not the whole ramp, which kills the plant of course). April brings St. George’s Mushrooms, June has elderflowers, August has laver and sea trout, October introduces a lot of fungus (puffball, beefsteak, hedgehog), and December closes out with quince and salsify. Terrific recipes (using both avoirdupois and metric measurements) but arcane. Quality/Price rating: 85 (but higher if you are British). 26. ARTISANAL COCKTAILS; drinks inspired by the seasons from the bar at Cyrus (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 150 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-921-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Scott Beattie, who had worked at many San Francisco bars before shaping the cocktail program at Cyrus in that city. This is a unique book in that the 50 recipes use a variety of organic or sustainable produce, handcrafted ingredients, and local artisanal spirits. The recipes are also seasonal, with local fruits, vegetables, herbs, flowers and spices as the calendar rolls along. Beattie also has profiles of local Bay Area distillers and wine country farmers. Advice includes proper juicing, spiced simple syrups, foams, salted and sugared rims, pickling liquid, ice cubes, ginger beer, verjus, tomato water, and dehydrating fruit. Try his take on lemoncello with a variety of citrus fruit, gin kimchi, frondsong with pickled fennel, rhubarbarella, or plum dandy. One drawback: the book is extremely local (great for sales at the resto) and thus the ingredients are virtually impossible for us to get in Canada – or anywhere else outside California. But we can modify locally. Quality/Price rating: 88. 27. MY FAVOURITE INGREDIENTS (Quadrille, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1- 84400-621-2, $49.95 CDN hard covers) is by Skye Gyngell, head chef at Petersham Nurseries Café in the UK, and a food writer for the Independent and for Vogue. Her first book in 2006 (“A Year in My Kitchen”) was named The Guild of Food Writers Cookery Book of the Year in 2007. Here she presents about 100 recipes to take advantage of the seasonal best produce in the UK. What does she favour? Try fish, shellfish, cheese, nuts, pulses and grains, plus asparagus, cherries and tomatoes. The orientation is distinctly British, and the price may seem high because book originated in the UK. Metric measurements, of course. Quality/Price rating: 84. 28. THINGS COOKS LOVE: implements, ingredients, recipes (Andrews McMeel, 2008; distr. Simon & Schuster, 342 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-6976- 4, $35 US) is from the gourmet mail-order firm in Seattle, Sur La Table, which began in 1972. It now has 60 stores in the US. Food writer Marie Simmons has pulled it all together. Notable log rollers include Mario Batali, Marcella Hazan, and Jamie Oliver. It is a highly visual book, with many photos of implements and ingredients. There are 100 recipes and 100 descriptions of kitchen implements. Emphasis seems to be on Asian, Mexican, and Western Mediterranean foods and techniques. Each recipe clearly shows equipment needs, as well as prep times, cooking times, and serving portions. Substitutions for both ingredients and equipment are spelled out. This book is just the first in a promising series, and should sell well through its stores and website. Try sausage-stuffed roasted artichokes, roasted boneless leg of lamb with orange gremolata, Chinese five spice-smoked pork tenderloin, mango and chipotle chile guacamole, oven-braised duck legs with toasted pumpkin seed sauce. Quality/Price rating: 88. 29. ORGANIC MARIN; recipes from land to table (Andrews McMeel, 2008; distr. Simon & Schuster, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-7314-3, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Tim Porter, a photographer and writer, and Farina Wong Kingsley, a San Francisco culinary consultant and teacher. A third partner is “Marin Magazine” which serves the community of Marin County. Notable log rollers include Alice Waters and Michael Pollan. This is a regional organic book, with 16 organic farms telling their story, and presenting 50 recipes from 25 of the San Francisco Bay Area’s organic restaurants. Proceeds from the book will support Marin Organic’s school lunch program, which serves over 12,000 lunches a week with food grown in Marin County. Great photos throughout. The recipes are arranged by season, beginning with Spring. Try (using your own local organic ingredients) fava bean bruschetta, panna cotta with fresh strawberries, chicken fra diavolo with fennel and dandelion salad, roasted butternut squash soup, halibut with shrimp. Quality/Price rating: 86. 30. TAMALES (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0319-1, $19.99 US hard covers) is by cooking personality Daniel Hoyer, an all- round Southwestern US cuisine consultant and teacher at the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Here he explores the single product “tamale” in 50 preparations. There are many styles of masas, fillings, sauces and accompanying salsas. There are many, many possible flavour combos here. The hardest part, for me, has always been finding banana leaves or corn husks. The rest is a snap, since you can order masa by mail if your town does not have any. Most natural food stores have masa. Hoyer has pix illustrating assembly techniques and wrapping. Fillings include pollo asado, machaca (shredded beef), al pastor (pork), pierno de cerdo adobada (pork leg), red chile and pork tamales, and some dessert tamales. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there are conversion charts. Quality/Price rating: 90. 31. COOKING WITH THE SEASONS AT RANCHO LA PUERTA; recipes from the world famous spa (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2008, 206 pages, ISBN 978- 1584797098, $35 US hard covers) is by the two Deborahs, Szekely and Schneider, along with Chef Jesus Gonzalez of a local cooking school, La Cocina Que Canta. The ranch is a spa in Baja California. All the preps are lightish in fats and carbos, but all are tasty. Szekely is a pioneer of the resort spa, and Schneider is a chef and food writer. Still, log rolling is needed from Alice Waters, Deborah Madison, and Joan Nathan. The 120 preps are organized as a series of 19 seasonal menus, from spring through winter. There’s a lobster paella party, a tecate sunshine event, New Year’s Eve, a Solstice celebration, and Tres Estrellas brunch – something for everyone. Informative sidebars and a ten page spread on the spa itself complete the package. While avoirdupois weights and measures are used in the recipes, there are no conversion charts. Try a pink menu: sangria La Puerta, watermelon and roasted beet salad, grilled yellowtail tuna, guava crème brule. Quality/Price rating: 85. 32. GREAT CHEFS COOK VEGAN (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0153-1, $35 US hard covers) has been pulled together by Linda Long, who has been a vegan for the past 30 years. She writes on food and nutritional topics. Log rolling comes from Charlie Trotter, which is surprising since he is one of the contributing chefs. This is a collection of recipes from 25 chefs, who also include Cat Cora (Iron Chef), Daniel Boulud, Marcus Samuelsson, Thomas Keller, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Vegan food, such as whole grains, vegetables, fruits and beans, are low in fat, contain no cholesterol, and are rich in fibre and nutrients. Here, each chef has contributed a menu of three or four courses. The book is arranged by chef’s first name, which is standard in many restos: you have Chef Alex, Chef Floyd, Chef Suzanne, etc. Just about all of these chefs are NOT totally vegan; they also cook meats and dairy. But the conception is useful for selling the book, and the preps are indeed tasty. Each chef gets about n10 pages. There is a pix, a textual description of the chef’s life, and then the recipes. For Chef Anne (Quatrano), we learn that she is at a top Atlanta resto, Baccanalia. She contributes a bruschetta with avocado and tomato, crispy fried okra and chiles, summer vegetable pilaf, and cantaloupe truffle bar. This book can also be used by non- vegans looking for something that is light and delicious. Avoirdupois measurements are listed, but there are also conversion tables. Quality/Price rating: 87. 33. THE ART & SOUL OF BAKING (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2008; distr. Simon & Schuster, 454 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-7334-1, $40 US hard covers) is by Cindy Mushet, a pastry chef, baking instructor, and cookbook author. This is another in the Sur La Table series, sponsored by that gourmet retail store with sixty locations. The book weighs in at 5.5 pounds (2.5 kilos). It’s a quite hefty collection of some 275 recipes, as well as information on 100 popular baking ingredients and about 50 baking implements (all available through Sur La Table). The gamut is everything, from yeast breads through layered pastries, quick breads, pies, tarts, cookies, cakes, custards, soufflés, and their derivatives. There are some sidebars of useful data. The weights and measures are all avoirdupois with NO metric conversion charts; at least, in true baker style, all the ingredients are also scaled by weight. Try chocolate napoleons with port-braised pears, cream cheese pie dough, olive and thyme bread, braided Danish coffee cake, and almond chocolate spritz cookies with orange blossom water. Quality/Price rating: 86. 34. ALINEA (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 400 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-928-9, $50 US hard covers) is by Grant Achatz, who opened Alinea in 2005. Before that, he was sous chef at The French Laundry and executive chef at Trio in Chicago. Along the way he’s picked up a three Beards, including his latest in 2008 for Outstanding Chef in the US. Certainly, this is the heaviest book I’ve reviewed this year: a whopping three kilos (6.6 pounds). Achatz is at the front of the “molecular gastronomy” movement, and here some of his secrets are revealed. This book is not for the faint of heart or the weak (never mind the weight of the book). There is some heavy duty construction here. The cookbook features about 100 dishes, totaling some 600 recipes. And 400 colour photos. There are essays about the restaurant by Michael Ruhlman and Jeffrey Steingarten, plus one by Mark McClusky about the role of technology in the kitchen – it goes beyond stainless steel surfaces. Gourmet Magazine has called Alinea “the best in the country”. I’m not even going to tell you what preps to try: read the book. Buyers will receive access to a website with video demos, interviews, and interaction with the resto team. Quality/Price rating: 89. 35. CHEF JEFF COOKS; in the kitchen with America’s inspirational new culinary star (Scribner, 2008, 264 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-7710-2, $30 US hard covers) is by Jeff Henderson, who eventually became Chef de Cuisine at Caesars Palace and later executive chef at Café Bellagio. This book rides on his Food Network show, “The Chef Jeff Project”, a reality series. Additional log rolling has been furnished by Paula Deen. All courses are covered, with an emphasis on soul food and deep south cooking. Every prep (of 150 recipes) comes with a story or anecdote from his life (on the streets, in the prison kitchen, motivational speaker) and how the food works in both that context and currently. There’s a short bibliography, and the index has a huge typeface (great for easier retrieval). All weights and measures are in avoirdupois, unfortunately with no metric conversion charts. Try roasted Portobello sandwich, king crab gumbo, Sunday morning cinnamon rolls, molasses braised beef short ribs, and sautéed striped sea bass. Quality/Price rating: 85. 36. IL VIAGGIO DI VETRI; a culinary journey (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 289 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-888-6, $40 US hard covers) is by Mark Vetri, chef-owner of the eponymous Philadelphia resto. He also owns Osteria in that same city. He has won awards from Beard, Food & Wine, and Gourmet magazines. Log rolling comes from Mario Batali, Patricia Wells, and Alan Richman. Here are 120 or so recipes plus 100 colour photos, done up for Northern Italian cuisines. There are accompanying wine notes by sommelier Jeff Benjamin, and some memoirish material by Vetri on his Italian cooking career. As with most books of this nature, there are far too many cute pix of Vetri mugging. This eats up space. The other photos are of plated dishes and instructional techniques. All courses are covered, but there are separate chapters for cold and hot appetizers. This is actually a perfect book for marketing at his two restos: there are pix and the current staff are described. Try crostini di fegatini di pollo, wild boar salami, mortadella-stuffed squid with spring peas and pancetta, cialzon di frutta secca con salsa di foie gras, smoked capon cannelloni, torrone semifreddo cannoli. Most of the wine recommendations are Italian, although there are a few from the rest of Europe. The book ends with a source list, which is all American. All weights and measures are in avoirdupois, unfortunately with no metric conversion charts. Quality/Price rating: 86. 37. OSTERIA; hearty Italian fare from Rick Tramonto’s kitchen (Broadway Books, 2008, 277 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-2771-0, $35 US hard covers) is by Tramonto, who owns and operates several restos in the Chicago area. He opened Osteria di Tramonto in 2006. Log rolling on the book has been provided by Emeril Lagasse, Alfred Portale, and Cat Cora, although I am not sure why he needs them since he has written six other successful cookbooks. Maybe they need him. These are all family style meals from Italian experiences, and include breakfasts, lunches, and snacks. 150 recipes, all with avoirdupois measurements but no metric conversion charts. There is a sources list for hard-to-find ingredients and equipment, but it is all US. Typical dishes include ricotta pie, peaches in red wine, frittatas, panini, faro salad with pork cheeks and dates, pecorino cheese custard, tuna siciliana. Quality/Price rating: 83. 38. DUCASSE MADE SIMPLE BY SOPHIE (Les Editions Alain Ducasse, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 203 pages, ISBN 978-2-84844042-2 $35US hard covers) is a collection of 100 recipes by Alain Ducasse, as simplified for the home cook by Sophie Dudemaine, a best selling French language chef and cookbook writer. Linda Dannenberg, a freelancer and translator specializing in French cuisine, has adapted the recipes for the North American market. The preps come from Ducasse’s encyclopedic “Grand Livre du Cuisine”. Ducasse owns four renowned restos in Monaco, in Paris, New York, and Tokyo. According to the publisher, the wide range here covers classic French (but why bother?) to international favourites (but again, why bother?). There’s a listing of US sources for food and kitchenware, plus some websites. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used, but there are no metric conversion tables. Arrangement is by course, and the layout is terrific with good clean graphics and no gastroporn. Instead of the “classics” or “international”, try such rarities as chestnut bouillon, fried pumpkin purses, herbed duck ravioli, fresh anchovy tart, and caramelized orange tartlets. Quality/Price Rating: 86. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR SEPTEMBER 2008 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. WINEWISE; your complete guide to understanding, selecting, and enjoying wine. (John Wiley and Sons, 2008, 360 pages, ISBN 978-0-471- 77064-0, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Steven Kolpan, Brian Smith and Michael Weiss – all professors of wine at the Culinary Institute of America. It is meant as both a textbook for hospitality students, especially those at the CIA, and for the informed consumer who wishes to pursue his vinous knowledge. It is a fairly complete basic guide within two covers at a very decent price. There are over 300 colour photos and 32 maps (in colour, and with sufficient detail). The authors aim to prepare the basic consumer to appreciate wines, to select and buy the best bottles in both stores and restaurants, and to pair wines with foods (and vice versa). They begin coverage with material on the major white and red varietals. They continue with profiles of the major wine regions in the world. Here, Canada is lumped with Greece in a separate chapter labeled as “up and coming”. Ok, I can handle that…There are a few errors in the Ontario section (Pelham is spelled Pellham; there is no mention of Prince Edward County as a wine growing region). Additional material concerns lists of value wines. Audience and level of use: basic consumer level, hospitality schools especially the CIA. Some interesting or unusual facts: As for restaurant pricing policies, the authors say “the wine should never cost double its retail price on the wine list.” With a straight face, I can say that for Ontario, the wine should ALWAYS cost quadruple its retail price…A $10 bottle from the consignment warehouse is regularly priced in the $40 to $50 range. The downside to this book: I wished they had some more details on some of the minor grapes. We do not really know which will be the next “star”. The upside to this book: there is a good list of bargain wines, most of which can be also found in Ontario, PQ and BC, unfortunately not as bargains. Quality/Price Rating: for this price, try 96. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE NO-NONSENSE GUIDE TO WORLD FOOD (Between the Lines, 2008, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-897071-44-1, $16 CAD soft covers) is by Wayne Roberts, a Toronto-based environmental activist who writes for NOW and co-ordinates the Toronto Food Policy Council (he’s also the author of “Real Food for a Change” from 1999). It has been co-published with the New Internationalist as one of its “No-Nonsense” series, basic guides to activist projects albeit on a higher plane that Dummies or Idiots series. Other series topics include animal rights, climate change, fair trade, globalization, human rights, sexual diversity, women’s rights, and world poverty. It’s a great survey of the problems that plague global food production and distribution, all of it in the macros (since this is a survey book) of social justice, public health, and green economics. Of course, he brings in related systems with sustainable living, the role of governments, the hundreds of groups that have united (with stories behind these organizations). He deals effectively with the hunger campaigns in Cuba and Brazil. All we see in the papers, though, are stories about escalating food prices, high levels of obesity, and threats to food from global warming. He tries to go behind these stories to get at the issues by highlighting the post-World War II evolution of a cheap food system, the government subsidies, and the disconnect between humans and their environment. He has end notes after each chapter, lists of international contacts and websites, and an index. Audience and level of use: serious foodies, fans of Michael Pollan, etc. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Food production is one of the world’s dirtiest industries, doing more damage to more territory than logging, mining or heavy industry. About 170 million food producers are child laborers, which speaks to the poverty and mistreatment subsidizing low food prices.” The downside to this book: I wish Roberts had spent more space talking about Via Campesina. This really important group needed further exploring. Also, there is no mention of biodynamic or Demeter. The upside to this book: according to the publisher, “there are on-the- spot reports of heartwarming experiments around the world”. And there are doable proposals. But still… Quality/Price Rating: 94. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. NOVA SCOTIA DRINK-O-PEDIA (Nimbus Publishing, 2008, 236 pages, ISBN 978-1-55109-652-0, $16.95 CAD soft covers) is by Graham Pilsworth, an editorial cartoonist and graphic artist now living in Halifax. This is a basic guide to drinks in Nova Scotia. It has been arranged by type: separate chapters appear on rum, beer, wine, whisky and moonshine, tea and coffee, soda and water. The alcoholic beverages are the more interesting sections. There are the usual trivia and “little known” facts, but while Pilsworth has some book sources noted, there is no index to pull everything together. This is the kind of book that you read in the bathroom, on a pickup basis. It is mostly historical, with stuff about women run-running, Alex Keith’s business empire, coffee in Nova Scotia, and the like. There are jokes, bits of songs, and quotes. I don’t think he left anything out, but it does need to be tidied up. The chapter on wine was interesting; certainly, it gave me some deep background about the Nova Scotia wine industry. In the whisky chapter you’ll find a nice summary about the Glenora Distillery. Audience and level of use: Maritimers, drinkers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there is a flame test for determining the quality of moonshine (quality meaning whether it will kill you or not). The downside to this book: needs an index or some retrieval device. The upside to this book: unique. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 4. COOKING LESSONS; tales from the kitchen and other stories (Quadrille, 2008; distr. Ten Speed Press, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84400- 615-1, $24.95 CAD hard covers) is by Daisy Garnett, a lifestyle writer now contributing to British Vogue. Impressive log rolling comes from Rose Gray of The River Café. Daisy tells us, in memoir style, how she learned her skills. There are food and family-related anecdotes. It all began, apparently, as she sailed with a crew from Florida to Portugal. It tuned out that she could not sail. So she was made cook. But she couldn’t do chefing either. There are 100 recipes here, with techniques scattered about. Some of the recipes (at least nine) are sourced and cited as being especially influential on her. She includes a bibliography of books that have also influenced here, including the aforementioned Rose Gray’s five River Café cookbooks. The index is only to recipes, not to the memoirs. But there are great watercolour illustrations by Carmen Carreira. Audience and level of use: travelogue readers, food memoir fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pine nut ice cream; grilled lamb chops; shepherd’s pie; leeks with spinach and peas; mango sorbet; lemon pound cake. The downside to this book: the memoirs appear to be a little scattered. The upside to this book: there is an index, but only to the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 5. THE MODERN BAKER; time-saving techniques for breads, tarts, pies, cakes and cookies (DK Publishing, 2008, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566- 3971-6, $38 CAD, hard covers) is by Nick Malgieri, an award-winning cookbook author whose recipes have also been widely published in the USA. The book is oversized and overweight (3.75 pounds), which makes it awkward in the kitchen. There are 150 recipes with about 200 full- colour photos, which is a DK specialty. Most recipes require less than an hour; they are all classic or contemporary, and include the usual of breads, tarts (sweet and savoury), cakes, cookies, biscotti, and puff pastries. Most of the recipes have some sort of variation indicated. And most have avoirdupois volume measurements, with very little scaling indicated. There is a bibliography, but the entire food resources list is US. Audience and level of use: home bakers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: smoked salmon mill-feuilles; fennel, fig and almond bread; whole wheat currant bread; jalapeno cornbread; pecorino and pepper biscuits; corn pudding tart. The downside to this book: the list of ingredients is in tiny type, hard to read. I had to use an enlargement from my photocopier. The upside to this book: basic, inexpensive food. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 6. FROZEN DESSERTS (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 40 pages, ISBN 978-0-470- 11866-5, $60 US hard covers) is by Francisco J. Migoya of the Culinary Institute of America; he was formerly executive pastry chef at The French Laundry and Bouchon. The book weighs 4.5 pounds. This is a detailed book, since it is also meant as a culinary school text. It covers ice creams, gelatos, sorbets, granites, bombes, and semi-freddi. The techniques offered are both modern and traditional, with a discussion of the different pros and cons for each. The 200 recipes (some are savoury) are complemented by material on equipment. The photos are upclose and tight. The appendices list seasonal availability of fruit and mathematical tables. There’s a section on the basic recipes which yield 5 kilos each, but can be used in many different ways. Recipes are happily scaled in both metric and avoirdupois. The book concludes with a glossary and bibliography plus a list of Internet sites. Audience and level of use: advanced home cooks, culinary schools, working pastry chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lime sorbet with spider crab; cucumber and wasabi sorbet with smoked salmon; garlic chips; pumpkin gelato; lemongrass semi-freddo with coconut bubbles; assorted citrus sorbet sandwiches. The downside to this book: its weight is awesome – best to photocopy the prep you’ll be using. The upside to this book: frozen desserts are part of every pastry chef’s repertoire. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 7. DINNER AT YOUR DOOR; tips and recipes for starting a neighborhood cooking co-op (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0291-0, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Alex Davis, Diana Ellis, and Andy Remeis. All three are experienced writers and chefs and consultants, and have been launching and running co-ops for most of the past decade. This book gives you the basics for setting up a dinner co-op: one family makes a huge meal for all the other families, once a week, with pay- back from the other families. Thus, a group of four families will get three meals back for the one that each cooks. The Platonic idea is valid, and falls into the same category as “living together”. The trio is very careful to give you the forms to set up a co-op and explain everything that would be useful for apartment buildings, building co- ops and condos, suburban neighbourhoods, and college campuses. It takes a lot of planning to set up, but it should run efficiently on its own once everybody agrees to “co-operate”. They provide forms and worksheets that everybody has to fill in. In general, you would spend less money and time than cooking for just yourself. And have a lot more fun. However, families need to be aware of the pitfalls: this is not for everyone. You must all be on the same page: no absences, no fights, no cheating. Food safety and liability is an issue. People don’t contribute their fair share; there is always a weak link that has to be turfed: can you kick somebody out of your group without qualms? Food preferences change. Kids and others are picky eaters. Spicing levels vary. The authors attempt some levity here, with anecdotal examples of screwups. There are 50 recipes here for serving large quantities. Most of the preps serve 12 and they are one pots for the most part. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there is no metric conversion chart. Audience and level of use: co-op eaters – the right kind of people are needed here. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: southwestern chicken pot pie; BBQ pulled pork in the crock-pot; crab corn chowder; panzanella salad; hunter chicken. The downside to this book: it can succeed with the right people. Do see the book “The Household” reviewed below. The upside to this book: food variety is emphasized. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 8. THE HOUSEHOLD; informal order around the hearth (Princeton University Press, 2008, 251 pages, ISBN 978-0-691-13442-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Robert C. Ellickson, a property law professor at Yale. It is a terrifically original book, dealing with relationships in family-based households as specified by American law and customs. It is a scholarly book, written by an expert in property law, meant mostly for law schools. The chapters cover how, in law, “households” differ from “families”; the three relationships in a household; how surpluses and deficits are distributed; ownership of property; and adding co- occupants and/or co-owners. Rules are discussed in the context of historical overviews (medieval English castles, kibbutzim). As the PR says, “Ellickson applies transaction cost economics, sociological theory, and legal analysis to explore issues such as the sharing of household output, the control of domestic misconduct, and the ownership of dwelling units.” There are copious end notes, a 40 page or so bibliography (about 550 items), an extensive index, and tables of stats on US intentional communities and co-housing communities. For an interesting spin on co-ops, see the book review above (“Dinner at Your Door”). Audience and level of use: lawyers, those interested in communal living. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: He shows that most individuals, when structuring their home relationships, pursue a strategy of consorting with intimates. There is a great advantage to the home setting of informally associating with a handful of trusted people. The downside to this book: could be tough reading for those expecting a popular history book. The upside to this book: very useful in its context. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 9. GREAT PARTY FONDUES (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0- 470-23979-7, $16.95 US hard covers) is by Peggy Fallon, a recipe developer and cookbook author. These 72 recipes show that fondues are on the rise again. She has advice on the selection of fondue pots, ingredients, safety, and etiquette. Apparently, you should now not eat from the fondue fork, and you should not double-dip. This gives new meaning to the phrase “I survived the sixties”…Most fondues, be they cheese or savoury or dessert, call for five or fewer ingredients. She also adds some dipping sauces to provide a range of flavours. The measurements are all avoirdupois but with no metric conversion chart. A word of caution: you do have to be careful with oil fondues – I once had a fire due to inattention. Audience and level of use: cheese lovers and others. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for sauces, Spanish roasted pepper and hazelnut sauce, mint-pesto yogurt sauce, puttanesca sauce, chipotle sauce. For fondues, there’s a sweet wine and cheese for dessert, a s’more, and a hot pot fondue with BBQ broth. The downside to this book: more emphasis is needed on the dangers of oil heating at the table, especially with kids. The upside to this book: good range of savoury fondues. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. EVERDAY RAW (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0207-1, $1995. US soft covers) is by Matthew Kenney, a food writer, chef and restaurant owner. He has also authored “Raw Food Real World”. The equipment you will need here is a dehydrator and a blender. He used a Vita-Mix. Dehydration will take the temperature up to 120 degrees without cooking the food. Drying is essential to preservation. Consumption of raw food need not be a lifestyle – this is just a nice book with a collection of “no-cook” foods. The chapters concern the usual juices and smoothies, snacks with nuts and seeds and grains and granola, soups, salads and dressings, and ice cream. He also has breads and crackers and desserts, most of which will need a dehydrator. The preps use avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric conversion chart. Audience and level of use: vegetarians, vegans, raw food enthusiasts. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: nut milk (Brazils, almonds); raw chocolate chip cookies (dehydrator); cumin flatbread (dehydrator); chipotle mayo; macadamia hummus; summer rolls. The downside to this book: missing are raw fish preps such as sushi and seviche, and sir-cured meats. So this is really a vegetarian book. The upside to this book: saves a lot of time, with no cooking. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 11. APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES FROM SANTA FE KITCHENS (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 143 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0338-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is from the Museum of New Mexico Foundation; it is one of a series of cookbook fundraisers, along the lines of community cookbooks. But it is simply one of the most gorgeous such community books I have seen, resplendent with reproductions of paintings held in the local Museum of Fine Arts, crafts in the Palace of the Governors, and other items from the Museum of International Folk Art and especially the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture (which celebrated its 20th anniversary last year). The Foundation is a non-profit organization dedicated to these four museums, as a sort of “Friends of…” group. There are also photos of members’ dining rooms and kitchens (without people, thank God). Recipes are contributed by a committee. This is a “party time” book of 200 recipes for appetizers (dips, sauces, pates, antipasti, plus bites of seafood and meats) and beverages (both alcoholic and not). While there are a lot of New Mexican type recipes using chiles, corn and chipotles in a special section, this is still an all-round community styled book. For example, something like Hungarian cheese spread (cream cheese and paprika) turns up in every such book. It is not particularly Santa Fe food, but it does have strong Mediterranean and California components. Jars and cans are used for convenience. Avoirdupois measurements are employed, but there is a metric conversion table. Audience and level of use: society party givers Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chile recipes; chipotle sauce for meatballs; BBQ venison; tomatillos duck triangles; vaquero salsa; chunky guacamole. The downside to this book: recipes are quite common, except for the Southwest. It needs more local recipes. The upside to this book: absolutely gorgeous colour reproductions of oils and crafts. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. HEIRLOOM BEANS; great recipes for dips and spreads, soups and stews, salads and salsas, and much much more (Chronicle Books, 2008, 180 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6069-7, $22.95 US paper covers) is by Steve Sando and Vanessa Barrington. He’s the founder of Rancho Gordo, a specialty food company that provides heirloom produce, seeds, and beans; she’s a food writer, recipe developer, and a leader in the farmer market movement. The heavy guns in log rolling are here: Thomas Keller, Paula Wolfert, Annie Somerville, and Deborah Madison. They begin with a guide to some 34 varieties, mostly Phaseolus vulgaris (Red Nightfall, Jacob’s Cattle, Borlotti, and Yellow Indian Woman) but with some Ph. cocoentus, Ph. lunatus, Ph. coccinus, and Ph. acutifolius. There are details on buying and storing, soaking and cooking, and the like. There is a strong aboriginal influence here, and many of the 90 recipes are definitely from the American southwest. Ingredients are listed in avoirdupois, but there is a table of equivalents on the inside back cover. Audience and level of use: bean lovers, basic cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: wild rice and white bean canapés, marrow beans and marrow bones, bean-stuffed pupusas, Caribbean black bean soup, chili verde with anasazi beans, ABC bean salad, and Christmas lima with pork chop. The downside to this book: no mention of romano beans which are quite popular in Canada and in Italian communities. They are, though, just a synonym for cranberry beans, and a cross-reference should have been made. Indeed, there should have been many more cross-references from bean names. The upside to this book: a good single product book. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 13. QUICK & EASY CHINESE; 70 everyday recipes (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 185 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5930-1, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Nancie McDermott, a food writer and cooking teacher specializing in the cuisines of Southeast Asia. It is one of a series from Chronicle, with the series title “Quick and Easy…” The 70 recipes here use readily available ingredients (McDermott suggests many substitutions as well) and simple techniques. Indeed, the book concentrates on the familiar Chinese restaurant menu items – you can do them at home for less than the4 price of delivery, and probably in half the time. It even might have made sense, in terms of restaurant variations, to number each recipe and take an order for a number 4 or 62 or 27 to the kitchen. Just a thought. All courses are covered, with avoirdupois measurements. There are seven menus listed, with page references given, and a bibliography. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: typical are pot stickers, hone-garlic spare ribs, green onion pancakes, hot and sour soup, won ton soup, almond chicken, cashew chicken, beef with broccoli, orange beef, pork with black bean sauce. The downside to this book: The mail order sources are all US. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 14. CUISINES OF THE AXIS OF EVIL AND OTHER IRRITATING STATES; a dinner party approach to international relations (Lyons Press, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 315 pages, ISBN 978-1-59921-286-9, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Chris Fair, a think-tank analyst of South Asian political and military affairs. She has lived and traveled and eaten her way through the Middle East, South and Southeast Asia. She’s been there, done that, and has eaten this in the Khyber Pass, Delhi, Jaffina, and Peshawar. This is a bit of a memoir, but she also has astute political commentary on why these 10 countries are irritating. She begins with the original Axis of Evil: Iraq, Iran, and North Korea. Then she moves on to those with nuclear power (Israel, Pakistan, India), and thence to Burma, China, Cuba, ending up in – surprise! – the USA. Yes, the USA earns its place here because it clearly irritates the rest of the world. Israel is here because the First World seems to have guaranteed it, and must defend it no matter what. That can be irritating. Also, it has nuclear capacity and can be duplicitous. But enough about politics. The PR for this book pushes it as being funny and outrageous, but that should only apply to the USA, with its recipes for beer butt BBQ. I found the book to be engaging and witty. Each of the chapters concern a particular country, and she furnishes notes on the local cuisine. In Israel’s case, the cuisine is sort of generic Middle East but with kosher rules. Overall, ethnic foods are fast and cheap, and that is why people eat them. She makes a good point in saying that the UK loves its curry houses, France loves its tagines, and the USA chows down on Mexican food. Each of her country’s recipes begins with a “plan of attack”, followed by tips and advice on cooking. The book finishes with end notes, a bibliography for further reading about perfidies, and web URLs for where to shop. Audience and level of use: foodies and politico junkies looking for something different. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for North Korea: kimchi, bulkogee, paesuk. For Iran: dolmeh, khoresh, kebab. For Iraq: margat bamya, kubeh. The downside to this book: no metric equivalents, which proves the insularity of the USA (and this publisher) since the rest of the world is metric! The upside to this book: exciting book, give it a whirling read. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 15. FAT; an appreciation of a misunderstood ingredient, with recipes. (McClelland and Stewart, 2008, 323 pages, ISBN 978-0-7710-5577-5, $37.95 CAD hard covers) is by Jennifer McLagan, who had intrigued us in 2005 with her James Beard award-winning cookbook, “Bones”. Here she tackles the next single-ingredient food, fat. Can “Tendons” be far behind? This is an “exploration” as the PR sheet says. There is basic stuff about animal fat (its importance, etc.) followed by four major chapters on types of fat: butter, pork fat, poultry fat, and beef and lamb fats. Included, then are, duck fats, caul fat, leaf lard, bacon, ghee, suet, schmaltz, cracklings, and other derivatives. There are about 100 recipes, let’s say 25 apiece for each of the sections. Most of the sweets are covered by butter and lard in pastries. Scattered throughout the book are quotations from literary greats and not-so- greats, on butter and fats. Both avoirdupois and metric measurements are used in each recipe, and there is a bibliography for further reading and recipes. Audience and level of use: foodies, recipes collectors. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: French fries in lard, veal kidney, homemade butter, spiced pork cracklings, pumpkin and bacon soup, braised pork belly, Christmas pudding. The downside to this book: she does not cover the benefits of organic fat, and that to me is a major disappointment. It is well-known that more residue from hormone treatments and the like end up in animal fats than end up in the meat itself, and consequently, most should be avoided. If you love fat, try organic butter and make your own organic lard. Avoid like the plague the packaged lard on supermarket shelves: they have been treated with transfatty acids to act as a preservative. The upside to this book: good topic. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 16. ENTERTAINING SIMPLE; recipes, menus and party ideas for every kind of gathering. (John Wiley and Sons, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-470- 17499-9, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Matthew Mead, a food lifestyle authority with a variety of authored books. There are 350 engaging colour photos here, as well as 50 recipes. This is a guide to parties, not a cookbook. He gives the basics of simple white tableware, clear glassware and stemware, the essential serving pieces, and then goes on to the dress-up décor the each occasion. He has eight party plans, ranging from BBQ to Brunch to Open House to Coffee Klatch. Other tips include some notes on last minute planning, bar stocking, storage, linens, candles, and maintenance of the setup items (how to care for it all). Audience and level of use: beginners who want to entertain Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pistachio biscuits, raspberry tea punch, peach shortcake, cheese strata, potato boats, petite shrimp salad sandwiches. The downside to this book: for us in Canada, all the mail order sources are US based. Also, there is no table of metric equivalents. The upside to this book: nice detail, simply expressed. Quality/Price Rating: 85. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 17. WHAT EINSTEIN TOLD HIS COOK; kitchen science explained (W.W. Norton, 2008, 368 pages, ISBN 978-0-393-32942-1, $15.95 US paperback) is a reissue of a 2002 book by Robert L. Wolke, a consulting editor for “Cook’s Illustrated”. He also wrote “Food 101” for the Washington Post. In real life, he is professor emeritus of chemistry at the University of Pittsburgh. His wife Marlene Parrish contributes about three dozen recipes. The book is in Q and A style, based on queries sent in from his readers in the Washington Post. As a food reference book, it has to go up against the Harold McGee juggernaut, but the format is certainly engaging. Typical sections: why is red meat red? How do they decaffeinate coffee? In 2005 there was a sequel (What Einstein Told His cook 2). Quality/Price rating: 89. 18. THE RIVER COTTAGE FAMILY COOKBOOK (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 2008, 416 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-925-8, $32.50US hard covers) is by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Fizz Carr of the River Cottage cookbook series fame. Since the later books seemed to have sold well, they have resurrected and updated this one from 2005. This is an educational primer aimed at the whole family, being written by a father of three and a mother of five. There are more than 100 recipes here that can be made by children. There are kitchen projects, such as churning butter, curing bacon, doing a kitchen garden. This is a true “family cookbook”, with a distinct British orientation despite the Americanization of ingredients and weights and measures. Try fragrant rice and bacon sandwich. Quality/Price rating: 86. 19. THE MARTHA’S VINEYARD COOKBOOK. 4th ed. (Three Forks, 2008; distr. Canada Manda Group, 306 pages, ISBN 978-0-7627-4724-5, $19.95US paper covers) is by the late Louise Tate King and Jean Stewart Wexler; Wexler is a local journalist. It was originally published in 1971, and revised in 1993 and 2000. This is also its first paperback edition. There are 250 recipes here, reflecting the area’s heritage (Wampanoag aborigines, UK whalers, Portuguese fishers, and newer Brazilian and African- American residents. Indeed, there are 20 or so brand-new recipes reflecting the recent heritage. There are a variety of preps here, covering all courses. Try fried cheese pancakes, orange kiss-me cake, English lemon cake, and cranberry pudding. Quality/Price rating: 87. 20. WINE COUNTRY COOKING (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 232 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58008-938-8, $22.50 US paper covers) is by Joanne Weir, who has written 17 other cookbooks. Despite her acclaim in multi-media and award- gathering, she still needs log rolling by Andrea Robinson, Gina Gallo, and Lidia Bastianich. These are basically Mediterranean-influenced recipes from California wine country; it was first published in 1999 as “Weir Cooking” by Time-Life. But it has been revised and updated. She has 150 preps with wine recommendations and pairings, emphasizing the casual lifestyle (which only happens if YOU are the recipient and not the cook). All courses are covered. The book is now seasonal, and there are different wines given for the pairings. Conversion charts are included for weights and measures. Typical dishes include golden gazpacho, warm squid salad, wild mushroom and blue cheese crostini, chicken breasts, salmon fillets, chocolate tarts. Quality/Price rating: 86. 21. QUICK & HEALTHY RECIPES AND IDEAS. 3rd ed. (Small Steps Press, 2008; distr. McGraw-Hill, 334 pages, ISBN 9780981600109, $18.95 US spiral bound) is by Brenda J. Ponichtera, an RD specializing in weight loss, diabetes and heart disease. It was originally published in 1991, and seems to have sold over a half million copies since that date. This latest edition reflects changes since 2005. There are 200 or so easy recipes, 20 weeks of dinner menus with grocery lists, listings of recipes and what to add to complete a meal, quick meals without a recipe, ideas and tips, nutritional analyses for each recipe. Many recipes call for prepared food products from a can but that’s okay so long as you don’t overdo it. Speed is of the essence. Quality/Price ratio: 84. 22. GRAPE MAN OF TEXAS; Thomas Volney Munson & the origins of American viticulture. New revised edition. (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2004, 2008, 335 pages, ISBN 978-1-934259-04-7, $39.95 hard covers) is by Sherrie S. McLeRoy and Roy E. Renfro, Jr. It garnered an award as “Best Wine History Book in the World for 2004”; this revision updates the story. As Pierre Galet of Montpellier said, “The great merit of Munson is that he was a great hybridizer, a scholarly, systematic botanist, extremely prolific.” The authors’ work was complicated by the fact that much of Munson’s personal archives (including his field notes) were destroyed after his death. Nevertheless, they were able to piece together the story of his life and achievements. He was dominant during the 1875- 1925 period. This revision updates and clarifies his life and achievements. It also signals a new publisher, not the original Eakin Press. It is a straight forward biography which does lend some insight into how he became an important horticulturalist. It is also nicely illustrated with historical photos and reproductions, all in black and white (although the borders can get a bit twee at times). The appendix lists his published works (articles and books) and papers presented. There is also a huge section on grape varieties created by Munson, and whether they were used or discarded: there must be about 450 of these varieties. And then there is yet a separate section on the new grape varieties created from Munson hybrids. There are also extensive end notes, a bibliography of sources (including websites), and a comprehensive index. This book should be of interest to Ontario vine researchers. Quality/Price rating: 85. 23. NAPA WINE; a history from mission days to present. 2d ed. (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2008, 490 pages, ISBN 978-1-891267-07-9, $45US hard covers) is by Charles L. Sullivan, who has written seven books on wine and viticulture history. He has taught California history at DeAnza College for more than 15 years. It was originally published in 1994. It has been updated, with the addition of a new chapter to cover the 1994 – 2007 era. Similarly, the appendices have been recast to allow for updated statistics. Thus, there are the historical tables plus the modern ones for comparison (Napa Valley wineries in 2007, grape acreage from 1856-2006, wine grape production 1856-2006). In general, this is a solid factual history of the wineries in Napa, from 1769 with the Missions up to the modern day of cult wines. Admittedly, there is short coverage of the beginning, 1769-1836 through only a dozen pages. And sadly, Robert Mondavi has passed on. Structurally, the biggest changes in Napa came after 1990. After saying that there was no more room for grapevines in Napa in the early 1990s, the industry went on to not only somehow increase from 33,000 acres to over 45,000 acres but also to tear out and replant more than half of the established vineyards because of phylloxera. In 1990, Napa was white wine country, about 5,000 tons ahead of red. Chardonnay was 15,000 tons ahead of Cabernet Sauvignon. Now, Napa is red wine country, with Merlot the leader, followed by the other Bordeaux varieties. Red grapes in Napa have twice the coverage of white grapes. In just about every aspect of vinous improvement in California, Napa has led the way, with Mondavi most often at the forefront. Sullivan engagingly tells the story. The book has plenty of historical photos and reproductions, mostly in sepia tones. This is an important work, well-recommended. Quality/Price rating: 87. 24. SANTA FE KITCHENS; delicious recipes from the southwest (Ancient City Press, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 247 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0018-3, $40US) is from the Museum of New Mexico Foundation. It’s a fund raiser, along the lines of community cookbooks. But it is simply the most gorgeous one I have seen, resplendent with reproductions of paintings held in the local Museum of Fine Arts, crafts in the Palace of the Governors, and other items from the4Museum of Internatio9nal Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. The Foundation is a non- profit organization dedicated to these four museums, as a sort of “Friends of…” group. There are also photos of members’ dining rooms and kitchens (without people, thank God). Recipes are contributed by restaurants, chefs and the locals – even the Governor sent in some. While there are a lot of New Mexican type recipes using chiles and corn, pork sausages, tortillas, etc., there are still many non-local food preps such as bruschetta, most of the shrimp, and many desserts. And this is a common failing of many such books. Try instead southwest pasta, Texas cream pie, green chile con queso, or roasted squash soup. Quality/Price rating: 85. 25. SAVEUR COOKS AUTHENTIC ITALIAN; savoring the recipes and traditions of the world’s favorite cuisine (Chronicle Books, 2001, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6574-6, $25.95US soft covers) is by the team at Saveur magazine. This is a reprint of the original book of 120 recipes, out in 2001 as a hardback. The arrangement is by course, antipasti proceeding to desserts. In typical Saveur style, there is deep background on many Italian food products such as Parmigiano Reggiano, wine, vinegar, pasta, tomatoes, olive oil, and prosciuto – even road food. Typical Italian preps include pomodori a riso, crostini, pasta verde, cuttlefish stewed in its ink, Sicilian veal rolls. Lots of pictures illustrating techniques and food products; indeed, over 400 of them. There is also a table of equivalents for the weights and measures. Quality/Price rating: 88. 26. DINNER A DAY; 365 delicious meals you can make in minutes (Adams Media, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 394 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869- 615-8, $16.95US spiral bound) is by Lynette Rohrer Shirk. It contains some material and recipes by Shirk and others previously available in Adams Media’s “Everything” aeries. The arrangement is by course, from soup to holiday classics. These are main courses, which can be fleshed out by a simple salad and bought dessert. Deli-style food, sandwiches (wraps, burgers), seafood, poultry, meat, vegetarian, pizzas and pasta are included, and finished off by casserole one-dish meals. Preps include pot pie, cottage pie, tortilla lasagna, tamale pie, fish in red sauce, summer vegetable spaghetti – one for each day of the year. Holiday classics embrace venison medallions and Yorkshire pudding. Quality/Price rating: 88. 27. THE COMPLETE MEDITERRANEAN COOKBOOK (Tuttle Publishing, 2008, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-8048-4003-3, $29.95US soft covers) is by Tess Mallos, author of several cookbooks including “The Complete Middle East Cookbook”. There is no indication that this book is a reprint, but I did find a “previously published ISBN”. A search of the book’s bibliography showed no mention of any book published after 1995, so I’m guessing that this current book is at least 10 years old. Not that there are many changes in Mediterranean cooking – but there are many book in the field. There is nothing much here beyond the classics, so you will find paella, couscous, pastas, tzatziki, baba ghannouj, tapenade, cipollata, albondigas, pissaladiere, mezze, and the like. There are even spin-offs, such as Northern France’s “coquilles St. Jacques” but given here as “a la provencale”. The sardalya sarmasi (sardines in grape leaves) from Turkey are both easy and appealing; there is a charming photo of the little things on p.107. Arrangement is by course, service is for four, and volume/weight/metric measurements are given in each recipe, obviating the need for a conversion table. But a teeny tiny index typeface. Quality/Price rating: 85. 28. HEALTHY AND SIMPLE ASIAN RECIPES, for delicious everyday meals (Periplus Editions, 2008; distr. Ten Speed Press, 96 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7946-0510-0, $12.95YS spiral bound) is a collection of decent recipes from the publisher of well-known SEA cookbooks. Although the recipes are not sourced, there are 10 names of cooks and chefs listed on the same page as the metric conversion charts. Its previous title was “LTC Asian Cooking for Health”. There are 50 preps here, covering all courses save desserts and beverages. Try cucumber daikon salad with sweet mirin dressing, fish soup with fennel, Chinese red date soup, and rice with clams and sake. Quality/Price rating: 84. 29. IN PURSUIT OF THE COMMON GOOD; 25 years of improving the world, one bottle of salad dressing at a time (Broadway Books, 2003, 2008, 250 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-2997-4, $14.95 US soft covers) is by Paul Newman and A.E. Hotchner, creators of the Newman’s Own lines. It was originally published in 2003, and here is reissued as a trade paperback. The only real change has been in the title (it was formerly known as “Shameless Exploitation in Pursuit of the Common Good”), and it was written to celebrate their 20th anniversary. Now it is 25 years; hence the change in subtitle. This is the story of their pursuit of offering processed foods filled with only natural ingredients. Of course, they have succeeded, and over $150 million in profits in the first 20 years have been disbursed to charities. It is still a good read, and there are even some recipes. Quality/Price rating: 87. 30. BISTRO; French country recipes for home cooks (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2003, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-694-1, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Laura Washburn, who currently translates French cookbooks into English. It was originally published in hard covers in 2003. New to this reissue is the metric conversion chart. Here are 63 classic recipes for French onion soup, tians from Provence, soupe au pistou, goat cheese tart, Belgian endive salad, pork in cider, cassoulet, and the like. Good sharp photography, as always from Ryland. The mail order list of suppliers is all US. Quality/Price rating: 86. 31. CLASSICAL SOUTHERN COOKING. First revised edition (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 416 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0225-5, $30 US soft covers) is by Damon Lee Fowler, who has written six books on Southern cooking (“Savannah Cookbook”, “New Southern Baking”, “Fried Chicken”, etc.). This revision returns to print a minor classic in itself, There are more than 200 recipes here, and each is carefully explained. This is upscale food, for the most part, with catfish stew, sweet turnip sallet, game turkeys, peach cobbler, and pork recipes. There’s a chapter called “The Southern Way with Vegetables”, and a separate chapter for grits, rice and noodles. Lard is the fat of choice, of course, but good lard has to be made at home as he suggests. There is no recipe for chess pie. But there are metric conversion tables. I do worry about the “perfect” binding, wondering how long it will last. Quality/Price rating: 88. 32. FRESH FROM THE FARMERS’ MARKET; year-round recipes from the pick of the crop (Chronicle Books, 2008, 207 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6590-6, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Janet Fletcher, a multiple award-winning food writer and book author who once put in time at Chez Panisse. It was originally issued in 1997, and Fletcher has updated portions of it while still retaining the original photography. There are 75 preps here, for all courses, using in-season produce of course. The arrangement begins in the spring and carries through to winter. While the resources list has been updated to include websites, the bibliography has not been updated, and comes to a halt in 1996. There are also two pages of metric equivalent tables. She opens with a whole section on shopping at markets, and this is very informative for the uninitiated. But I did not like the all-caps listings for the ingredients, especially since the typeface was very light. I found it hard to read and identify the products. For the preps, try Spanish tortilla with spring veggies, pesto pizza, turnip and turnip greens soup, spaghettini with red and gold cherry tomatoes, potato soup with savoy cabbage, warm frisee and fava bean salad. Quality/Price rating: 84. 33. HOME COOKING WITH CHARLIE TROTTER (Ten Speed Press, 2000, 2008, 218 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-934-0, $25 US paper covers) is a paperback reissue of the 2000 hard bound book. The book has been newly designed and photographed. It was originally titled, “Charlie Trotter Cooks at Home”, so if you have that book, then you’ll not need this one. There is a 2008 copyright date assigned to Trotter, so presumably there are some changes, but not necessarily to the recipes. He covers the basics, and then roams through starters, entrees, and desserts, in much the same way his resto would. There are some menus and a pretty good index. The book is value priced. Try chilled asparagus and basil soup with goat cheese, cantaloupe and mango and Asian pear salad, olive oil poached cod, red-wine braised short ribs, chilled peach soup. Quality/Price rating: 88. 34. SAUCES; classical and contemporary sauce making. 3rd edition. (John Wiley and Sons, 2008, 612 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-19496-6 $49.95 US hard covers) is by James Peterson. It was the James Beard Cookbook of the Year after it was first published in 1991. It is a comprehensive survey of the field, and has sold over 200,000 copies in its first two editions. Peterson, the author of 13 cookbooks (most of which have gone on to win awards), has overhauled the book to bring it into the 21st century. He’s simplified a few things, lightened the sauces, replaced repetitive instructions with easy charts, standardized terms for the consistency of sauces, dispensed with some of the old French names, and added a new 16-pager insert of colour photos. There are about 440 recipes, and they also cover salad sauces, vinaigrettes, salsas and relishes, and jellies. Both avoirdupois and metric measurements for the ingredients are embedded in all recipes. Quality/Price rating: 87. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR AUGUST 2008 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE!! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. BIODYNAMIC WINES DEMYSTIFIED (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2008, 177 pages, ISBN 978-1-934259-02-3, $24.95US soft covers) is by Nicholas Joly, one of the French leaders in biodynamic wines. He’s been at it for over 25 years. It was translated from the French by Matthew Barton. Biodynamic borders on astrology and mysticism as applied to non-human life forms, and deals with the Platonic four states of matter. This is a book about the philosophy of biodynamic considerations without the specific details that a viticulturist would need. It is and energy management system. Rudolf Steiner gave a series of lectures in 1925 indicating what is to be done by extending traditional farming practices to include interactions with the earth and the sun, the moon and stars. Winemakers must eschew all the –cides (pest, herb, fungi) and all the artificial fertilizers. They must also not use anything that would deny the wine from expressing its own terroir, such as Rolland’s micro-oxygenation, cryo-extraction, reverse osmosis, many yeast, oak chips, additives like Tanin Plus and Sinustan, enzymes, excessive filtering. If wines are to be unique and authentic, then they must show terroir and the only way to do this is to be biodynamic. The appendices here include a list of the Return to Terroir Association members for 2007, the Charter of Quality, and a 2007 list of US Demeter certified and in-conversion biodynamic wineries, vineyards and farms. There are also 16 colour plates of photos. The philosophy has moved along at a rapid rate. Already there are changes are in effect for the US harvest of 2008. There will be the possibility of biodynamic grapes for eating, and two levels of biodynamic wine. One from all biodynamic grapes in which the wine process can be re-jigged and sulfiting levels adjusted, and another called “Biodynamic Gold Standard” with a Demeter logo, a more strict process. Details are at www.biodynamics.com and www.demeter.net Audience and level of use: deeply concerned wine consumers, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: I always ask organic winemakers if they’d pursue biodynamic wine. Almost all of them said “No” because it would take too much more work. The downside to this book: apparently, the Library of Congress has no subject heading for “biodynamic” anything, just “organic farming”. There are a few typos, such as “Umbrecht” for “Humbrecht”. And what I found disappointing was the lack of text on what Demeter was. The upside to this book: the philosophy and principles behind biodynamic were very well-expressed. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. AMERICA EATS! (Bloomsbury, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 207 pages, ISBN 978-1-59691-362-2, $25.99 US hard covers) is by Pat Willard, a food book writer (“Pie Every Day”, “A Soothing Broth”, and “Secrets of Saffron”). The WPA (Works Progress Administration) had a project for unemployed writers during the Depression -- the Federal Writers’ Project. The FWP produced local histories, nature guides, state travelogues, and oral histories. Nelson Algren, Eudora Welty, and Saul Bellow were all thus employed. In one sub-project, writers and photographers were asked to find out how America ate. They were told to produce “an account of group eating as an important American social institution; its part in development of American cookery as an authentic art and in the preservation of that art in the face of mass production of foodstuff and partly cooked foods and introduction of numerous technological devices that lessen labor of preparation but lower quality of the product.” The project was “America Eats!”, and there were to be NO recipes. The vision was for stories about local events where food was to be served: fund-raisers, religious gatherings, dinners at Elks Lodges, tea socials, church suppers, family reunions, rodeos, state agricultural fairs, harvest festivals, hobo camps, et al. This was all about the “importance of social gatherings that glorify the non-professional cook and keep traditional cookery alive.” Willard pulls it all together with transcripts, commentaries and personal re- visits. She does contribute 25 recipes, some from her own family and some from named sources such as Eudora Welty’s Beaten Biscuits. The project ceased in 1943, especially because the war effort reduced community gatherings and the feel of celebration. The material was boxed up and shipped to the Library of Congress, but not all was completed or available. Some manuscripts are in state archives or private hands, or even destroyed. Material was scattered over the five regions that were covered. The stories were never published – until now. A fascinating read. Audience and level of use: culinary historians. Some interesting or unusual facts: Most of the historical photos are from the Library of Congress, although there are two from the original mss. in the archives. The upside to this book: there is an index, plus a separate listing of the recipes. A fascinating read. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. TOMORROW’S TABLE; organic farming, genetics and the future of food. (Oxford University Press, 2008, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-19-530175-5, $29.95 hard covers) is by Pamela C. Ronald (professor of plant pathology at UC Davis) and Raoul W. Adamchak (manager of the organic Student Farm’s Market Garden, also at UC Davis). Endorsements have come in from Stewart Brand and Michael Pollan. However, the book covers an explosive issue within the food and academic communities: how to reconcile and incorporate Organic Foods and Genetically Engineered foods to help feed the growing planetary population in an ecologically- balanced manner. Some GE foods have been shown to promote sterility, increase infant mortality, provoke serious allergies, create organ damage, increase vulnerability to childhood diseases, break down auto- immune systems, and create non-nourishing foods. On the other hand, GE foods withstand pests and the weather better. This book is part-memoir, part instructions, and part contemplation. Chapters were written singly and together. The book, arranged by season, chronicles one year in their married life: he’s the organic farmer, she’s the geneticist. They do a good job dealing with the main issues of consumer reactions and modification of behavior, the ownership of seeds and genes (big pharma meets big agra), legislation and trust. Most of Ronald’s work has been done on rice, which is the case study subject of the first chapter. Increasing rice production is the major way to fight starvation in developing countries. In the meantime, just to prove her point (which was written before the headlines started), prices have climbed because of scarcity, causing economic hardship. The rest of the book has photos and tables, plus four recipes (why?), a glossary, extensive references in the end notes, and web URLs with dates of accession. Audience and level of use: consumers, farmers, and policy decision- makers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Readers who wish to know more about the science behind the passionate arguments surrounding genetic engineering and organic agriculture can find it in this book.” The downside to this book: this is not the book for you if you dislike “frankenfoods”. The upside to this book: the index is full and thorough. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. A MOVABLE FEAST; ten millennia of food globalization (Cambridge University Press, 2007, 368 pages, ISBN 978-0-521-79353-7, $27 US hard covers) is by Kenneth F. Kiple, who has taught at Bowling Green State University since 1970. His research concentrates on the history of food, disease and nutrition; he is the co-author of the sterling 2000 set “Cambridge World History of Food” (2 volumes). Indeed, this latest book, which “chronicles the globalization of food over the past ten thousand years”, is based on that set, in effect summarizing it in a good but long overview. This is a good topical survey of foodways and the geography of food, covering the beginnings of agriculture, the domestication of animals, the diffusion of farming cultures, the impact of religion (monks, missionaries), migrations, explorers and traders, the Columbian Exchange and the subsequent spread of cuisines, sugar and beverages, and the results of industrialization (food production, processing and distribution, famine and obesity, fast foods, and genetic modification). But while there is a whole chapter on the Columbian Exchange, there is no entry in the index for “Columbian Exchange”. Strange, but the index is too short as it is. The broad sweep of the book demands more detail in the retrieval of data. While there are extensive endnotes, there is no bibliography. You’ll have to go to the larger two volume set for that. Audience and level of use: culinary historians (who may actually seek out the larger work), foodies. The downside to this book: short index. The upside to this book: good affordable survey. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. INTERNATIONAL CUISINE (John Wiley, 2009 [sic], 855 pages, ISBN 978- 0-470-05240-2, hard covers) is by Michael F. Nenes, although it comes with collaboration from the International Culinary Schools of The Art Institutes, with more than 30 locations scattered throughout the USA. This book is just an introduction: there are 17 separate chapters on countries and regions of the world. For each there are subtopics on the land, history, food, glossary of terms, and a sketch map, plus menus and recipes. For example, Mexico has three menus with recipes. The basics are arroz con leche, frijoles refritos, sopa de ajo, mole verde, mole negro, pozole, pescado a la veracruzana. This is a safe and secure book for dealing with the foods of South America, the Caribbean, Japan, SEA, China, etc. It is loaded with sidebars and advice. Wine and beverage notes are given under each area’s food. It can be extremely useful for schools or caterers or restaurants looking to add variety to their menus. The 450 recipes have ingredients expressed in both metric and avoirdupois, as well as by volume and weight. Service is usually for four. And the book concludes with a bibliography of references and websites. There is also an instructor’s manual available. Audience and level of use: culinary arts students, restaurants wishing to expand their global/fusion offerings. The downside to this book: the index has vin santo listed under “win santo”. The black and white photos are not very appealing, and the colour photos look a little institutional. The upside to this book: fairly comprehensive and wide-ranging. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 6. GRAPE VS. GRAIN; a historical, technological, and social comparison of wine and beer (Cambridge University Press, 2008, 209 pages, ISBN 978-0-521-84937-1, $30 US hard covers) is by Charles Bamforth, Anheuser-Busch Endowed Professor of Malting and Brewing Sciences at the University of California, Davis. He has written many books and articles about brewing. But here he attempts to slag wine drinkers by touting beer. Indeed, this is the second book this year touting beer over/equal to wine. I now declare the market to be saturated. Bamforth compares the beer culture to the wine culture, noting their separate histories, technology, markets, quality attributes, types and styles, effect on health and nutritional value. However, he cannot avoid the fact that beer is the drink of partiers, consumed in mass quantities mostly by men. Wine has more respectability, is consumed mostly with food, and has more women drinkers. Bamforth, of course, advocates beer: he teaches it. He thinks that beer is overlooked. The argument is specious. Beer is a sparkler with two tastes (sweet or bitter) and a limited range of food pairing. The knock against beer is that it is carbonated. I know many wine drinkers who love wine, but cannot stand sparkling wine, or anything sparkling. That lets them out of beer…There’s a short bibliography and an index. Speaking of short, this is a small book of 200 pages or so, with lots of leading like Robert Parker’s books (the Spencer author, not the wine writer). It could have worked better as a long and interesting magazine article. Audience and level of use: beer drinkers looking for cachet. Some interesting or unusual facts: “One of the biggest differences between beer and wine is that to make the former a huge amount of water is used, whereas for the latter, there3 is need for relatively little”. The downside to this book: there is too much basic stuff on beer and wine separately. The upside to this book: worth looking at, maybe fore a public library. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 7. SOCIABLE! The elbow bender’s guide to Maritime pubs (SSP Publications, 2008; distr. Nimbus, 154 pages, ISBN 978-0-9686803-9-1, $19.95 paper covers) is by Bob Connon, a part-time academic and writer now living in Wolfville, Nova Scotia. Here he has created a nifty directory to some 45 pubs in the Maritime provinces (Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island). Some of them have microbrewery operations attached to them. He describes what they look like, their ambience, the beer cuisine, pub food, live music, and the beers they serve. Some of the pubs can be likened to “gastropubs”, a Brit term emphasizing upscale food. But not all of them. There is a certain sameness to most pubs, even many listed in this book. But that conformity is what many eater/drinkers want. The work is alphabetically arranged by province, and there are great photos of the insides and outsides of each. He comments on driving directions, hours of operations, types of beers served, patios and sceneries, parking, seating, TVs, phones (hey, not everybody has a cell), and the ambience in general. But not much on the food. For example, he notes that The Port in Port Williams, just outside Wolfville and thus on his own turf, is a gastropub: “The kitchen is under the supervision of the internationally celebrated gourmet chef Michael Howell, the owner of The Tempest in Wolfville. His stated aim is to provide the quality that people have come to expect from The Tempest with affordable prices for all.” Other places seem to have the foods expected of them: wings, chips, nachos, burgers, salads, etc. Given the seafood culture of the Maritimes, very few operations seem to be venturing out with their “fish and chips” into such things as “gourmet batters” (cornmeal, quinoa, etc.) and “gourmet sauces” (instead of tartar) and “gourmet chips”. They could all learn from such places as the Deep Blue Sea restaurant in land-locked Toronto. Audience and level of use: enthusiastic pub crawlers in the Maritimes, tourists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Some places such as The Port have a commitment to local and season food only. Some microbreweries do seasonal draughts. The downside to this book: needs more detail on the food. Otherwise, I could just go into almost any local. The upside to this book: glossary of terms. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 8. LEITHS SIMPLE COOKERY BIBLE (Bloomsbury, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 532 pages, ISBN 978-0-7475-9046-0, $65 CDN hard covers) is by Vic Pidgeon and Jenny Stringer of Leiths School of Food and Wine, founded in the UK in 1975. This is the sixth book in a series, with a full range of soups to nuts. “Simple” here means the recipes are quick and easy, or they can be made ahead and cooked a la minute. This is the first book from Leiths to include convenience foods such as purchased mayo and canned beans. It has been based on six years of recipes appearing in the Daily Mail, directly targeted to those readers who did after-work cooking or easy entertaining. The 700 recipes indicate prep times, chilling/cooking/freezing times, and quantities served; weights and measures are metric, with teaspoons and tablespoons. The package also includes wine and food matching notes, pantry requirements and set ups, and seasonal food lists. Some recipes are multi-purpose. The pancake recipe can also be used for both crepes and Yorkshire puddings, although this particular recipe is not indexed under Yorkshire pudding. The index also fails to list “smoked”. They correctly distinguish between Cottage Pie and Shepherd’s Pie, a distinction which has not crossed the Atlantic. Audience and level of use: enthusiastic amateurs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: duck liver and cointreau pate; smoked trout cakes with mustard sauce; chorizo quesadillas with coriander salad; salmon lasagna; steamed cucumber with star anise. The downside to this book: too small and too light a typeface for the ingredient listings. Also, the typeface in the index is extremely tiny. The upside to this book: there are conversion tables, tons of tips and catering quantities. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 9. SHARK’S FIN AND SICHUAN PEPPER; a sweet-sour memoir of eating in China (W.W. Norton & Co., 2008, 320 pages, ISBN978-0-393-06657-9, $24.95US hardcover) is by Fuchsia Dunlop, who writes about Chinese food and culture for many magazines. She has also authored the justly acclaimed “Land of Plenty”, her first book on Sichuan cuisine, as well as “Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook”. She was the first westerner to train at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine, China’s leading cooking school. She went to China and decided in 1992 to eat “whatever the Chinese might put in front of me” – and the Chinese eat everything that moves. And actually, the subtitle of the book could be “chi qiao” which means “eating skillfully.” Her northern travels almost made her give up eating Chinese food. She notes the sewer-like rivers, the polluted lakes, the generally dirty water, the toxic air, and eating too many endangered species: all of this makes the food unsustainable and poisonous to the body. But as she moved south, the environment got better. Throughout, though, there are vestiges of corruption and greed in the Chinese food industry. She has some good comments and discussions about MSG. At times, this is a very riveting memoir from a professional omnivore. The book has a locational sketch map and diagrams of food shapes. As well there are occasional menus and a dozen basic recipes with ingredients listed in metric for large quantities and avoirdupois for smaller quantities – but no conversion chart. A good exposition of Chinese foodways. Audience and level of use: readers of food memoirs, travelers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: twice-cooked pork; dan dan noodles; red-braised pork; red-braised beef; rice porridge congee; fried rice. The downside to this book: no conversion table for the recipes. The upside to this book: there is an index, albeit in very small typeface. Quality/Price Rating: 10, THE HEALTHIEST MEALS ON EARTH; the surprising, unbiased truth about what meals to eat and why (Fair Winds, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 368 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-318-9, $24.95US soft covers) is by Jonny Bowden, an expert on weight loss and nutrition, author of other books, a US radio call-in show, and www.jonnybowden.com. His co- author is Jeannette Bessinger, a holistic health counselor and nutrition educator. It follows on his successful THE 150 HEALTHIEST FOODS ON EARTH; the surprising, unbiased truth about what you should eat and why (Fair Winds, 2007) where he describes his top foods, arranged by food groups (e.g., veggies, grains, beans and legumes, sweeteners of blackstrap molasses and raw honey only. In his current book he develops the concept of “polymeal”, which is a meal composed of ingredients that could boost the health of the heart and the blood vessels: fish, garlic, almonds, fruits, veggies, dark chocolate, and red wine. The book begins with a series of four course polymeals, and then moves to a one pot polymeal with sides, and then ends with drinks. The theory here is that eating a polymeal everyday will delay the onset of a heart attack by 8 to 9 years for everybody over 55. He uses both metric and avoirdupois weights and measures, and there are lots of cook notes and tips, plus a pantry list to maintain. Audience and level of use: food watchers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: homemade energy bars, black bean cakes, raw chocolate fondue, Persian-style chicken with pomegranate sauce, lamb chops and sauerkraut. The downside to this book: lots of white space, and the book is heavy to move. The upside to this book: you could probably get away with just doing LOW FAT and NO SUGAR. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 11. PUTTING UP; a year-round guide to canning in the Southern tradition (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0280- 4, $19.99US soft covers) is by Stephen Palmer Dowdney, a previous owner and CEO of a small batch canning company in South Carolina. Here are 65 recipes he produced for his own canning business. You can certainly save a lot of money, at least half the cost of buying commercially canned food. The book is also part memoir, with anecdotes, stories, and vignettes of the agrarian south. The preps are arranged by month, January to December, and they are locally inspired. But since when will I have a surplus of local shrimp? In addition, there are resources listed for buying canning supplies. And a long list (with explanations) of safety precautions on home canning. I avoid the whole issue by storing my canned foods in the fridge (if jams) and in the freezer (if raw or low-acid). But then that’s me. Audience and level of use: home canners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pickled asparagus, beets artichokes, garlic; chow-chow, chutney and relishes; preserves of berries and peaches; jellies; salsas; leather; corn liquor BBQ sauce. The downside to this book: mostly US and Deep South inspired, which means limited product availability here. The upside to this book: metric conversion chart. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. A HARVEST OF PUMPKINS AND SQUASH; seasonal recipes (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 96 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6126-7, $15.95US hard covers) is by Lou Seibert Pappas, who has authored over fifty cookbooks, mostly for Chronicle Books. These are seasonal recipes for a variety of squashes, such as delicate, butternut, acorn, kabocha, buttercup, crookneck, patty pan, etc. Pumpkins are mainly for sweet items such as breads and muffins (there are eight preps here, and five are for pumpkin), and desserts (all nine preps here are for pumpkin). Soups, pastas and entrees all have an assortment of squashes, and most are interchangeable. The biggest distinction is between summer squashes (mostly zucchini) and winter squashes, with pumpkin being a sub- category for the sweet or off-sweet stuff. 40 recipes here are complemented by a glossary of types of squashes, basic cooking instructions, and storage. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: rosemary-polenta pumpkin muffins; squash and tomato oven frittata; acorn squash halves with orange pecans; Moroccan meatball, chard, and kabocha squash soup; curried chicken with butternut squash crescent; lamb chops and summer squash. The downside to this book: there are a lot of pumpkin recipes. The upside to this book: attractive layout and pictures. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 13. GOAT CHEESE (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0368-9, $24.99US hard covers) is by Maggie Foard, a goat cheese fanatic who now lives on a 12 acres farm in California with her family. This is a book about what goat cheese it, and how to use it in your day-to-day food, all sorted by appetizers, breakfast, lunch and dinner. But unfortunately, there are no actual recipes for making your own goat cheese, not even a simple lemon or vinegar ricotta style fresh cheese. Varieties are listed at the back of the book, and she notes that goat cheeses are made throughout North America now. They are useful on two points: goat cheeses have less fat than cow, and they are more digestible. She says, “More people in the world drink goat’s milk than cow’s milk”. Goat cheese is multi-faceted. You can use it as substitute for cream cheeses, ricotta, yoghurt cheese, feta, and brie – indeed, any soft white cheese. From Europe, we get chevre, St. Maura, Clisson, Bocconcino di Pura Capra, Manchego, and Norwegian Gjetost. Even Le Chevre Noir from PQ gets a nod, so it must be available in the US somewhere. Resources listed in this book are all US, although there is a metric conversion chart. Audience and level of use: cheese lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: morning biscuits with chevre and Meyer lemon jelly; sunburst frittata with ricotta, cilantro and jalapeno; spinach, chicken and orzo salad with goat feta; saffron fettuccine carbonara with roasted asparagus; eggplant, red bell pepper and pesto lasagna; peanut butter mudd pie. The downside to this book: resources are all US, and there is no recipe for making goat cheese. The upside to this book: a good concept. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14. SUNDAY SOUP; a year’s worth of mouthwatering, easy-to-make recipes (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118- 6032-1, $19.95US soft covers) is by Betty Rosbottom, a free lance food writer, author of cookbooks and a syndicated food column for Tribune Media Services. Soup has never made my mouth water; quite the contrary, soup slakes my thirst. I hate the use of the word “mouthwatering” in PR materials – so you can imagine my horror when I saw it in the actual title. These 60 recipes are for hearty Sunday one-pot meals, with assorted sides of salads and breads (six preps apiece). They are arranged by season, Fall to Summer, fifteen per time of year. But of course you can have them any day of the week: why wait for Sunday? After the soup basics, the recipes indicate prep times and total times for cooking, and what can be made ahead, and so forth, with ideas for side dishes. There are cooks notes on shopping and cooking. She has some topical indexes for soups, indicating which are quick and easy under 30 minutes, slow and simmering, hearty main courses, vegetable soups, seafood soups, light soups, holidays, appetizer soups, and comforting soups. Audience and level of use: soup lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shrimp gumbo; spring risotto soup; pozole; black bean soup; chilled melon soup; fall roots soup. The downside to this book: the book is a bit light on soups, maybe 100 would be okay. The upside to this book: topical indexes. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 15. THE SKI COUNTRY COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 156 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5977-6, $24.95US hard covers) is by Barbara Scott-Goodman, a New York-based author and food writer. Actually, this is an okay book for hearty, wintery foods anywhere. It is arranged by category, from breakfast through to après ski appetizers, soups, mains, sides, desserts, and – wait for it – drinks. Very uncomplicated too. Service is for six and up. Audience and level of use: skiers, winter people. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: smoked chicken and apple hash; apricot and pecan scone; cider-braised chorizo bites; beef brisket; asian-style pan-roasted spare ribs; pear and apricot galette. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 16. FABULOUS FOOD; sexy recipes for healthy living (Sphere, 2008; distr. Penguin, 223 pages, ISBN 978-1-84744-211-6, $32 Canadian hard covers) is by Sophie Mitchell, who has worked in restos and now presents and contributes to food shows in the UK. Two of the three log rollers are really incestuous plugs from those with vested but undeclared interests. And there are many chick pix of her cooking and serving while looking smashing. So many, in fact, that there are six lines of acknowledgements for her clothes, jewelry, hair and makeup, etc. plus thanks for the various people who have helped dress her. Damn, I hear her say, I broke my nail on the oven door…She promotes quick-fix dishes for the home, for comfort food, for entertaining, for aphrodisiac dinners, and for de-tox and quick weight loss. Nevertheless, as Mitchell says, “finding food that is light but still delicious is difficult”. Both prep and cooking times are indicated, and there is a list of seasonal suggestions. She uses both metric and avoirdupois measurements in the ingredient lists, even down to 25g for parmesan, and 20g for butter. Why? Audience and level of use: modern single. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sardines on peperonata; quinoa with tandoori chicken; fennel chicken on zucchini; butternut squash and almond risotto; red currant glazed venison. The downside to this book: alas, no metric conversion charts. The upside to this book: There are internal cross-references in many recipes to more recipes using similar ingredients. She also gives new meaning to the word “gastroporn”… Quality/Price Rating: 82. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 17. OLAF’S KITCHEN; a master chef shares his passion (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-15565-3, $28.95 soft covers) is by Olaf Mertens, who studied culinary work in Germany. Subsequently, he spent several years at Rogues Restaurant, and now is head chef and partner at three Mississauga restaurants (On the Curve, Ten Restaurant & Wine Bar, and West50 Pourhouse and Grille. This is another book about a chef writing for home cooks who want flair in their approaches to dinner. Low fat but flavourful dishes can be approached by using herbs instead of fats. Throughout the book, there is a sense of German influences (chocolate sauerkraut cake, spaetzle, herbal schnapps-cured salmon, scalloped kohlrabi, strudel, soured beef short ribs, et al) with a lighter touch. As with most current books, there is the S-L-O approach (seasonal, local, organic if possible) too. There is a nice section on “faster-cooking” foods, so you can quickly entertain or have a mid-week meal. Beer is the prep liquid of choice for cooking. While the book does emphasize low fat, there are some exciting cheese dishes including a goat cheese brule cake. Of note are nice pictures of the unidentified staff – which makes the book an easy sell at his restos. Quality/Price rating: 86. 18. FOOD 2.0 (Dorling Kindersley, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566- 3358-5, $25 US hard covers) is by Charlie Ayers, one-time cook for Google in 1999 when they only had 40 employees. The book is “with Karen Alexander and Carolyn Humphries”. Log rollers include Iron Chef Cat Cora. His mission was to get the workers all back to their respective computer screens in the afternoon pumped with energy. He left in 2005, and by that time, he was feeding 1500 a day. He now has an earth- friendly fast food resto (Calafia) in Palo Alta. His shopping principles are SLO: seasonal, local and organic. His backup drive is always a fully loaded pantry. His 100 recipes try to promote concentration in the brain, starting with brekkies and moving through to the pick me ups at the end of the day. Try an apricot multi-grain breakfast, or a cranberry-orange bread, dragon breath noodles, khmer spring rolls, turkey-avocado-carrot wrap, or snapper in a yogurt coat. More details at www.chefcharlieayers.com. Quality/Price rating: 87. 19. BREAKFAST AT THE WOLSELEY (Quadrille, 2008; distr. Ten Speed Press, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-84400444-7, $29.95US hard covers) is by the quirky A.A. Gill, a restaurant critic for the Sunday Times and a freelance food writer. He has written many books, including two on London restaurants The Ivy and Le Caprice, also owned by the owners of The Wolseley. Coincidence? I think not…. Here he gives a behind-the- scenes look at breakfast served in a tony Piccadilly resto which bills itself as a cross between a café and a brasserie (maybe a brashcafe?). He details the front of house activities and the kitchen scenes. While Gill did the essays, there was a photographer and a recipe team (Julian O’Neill and Lewis Esson). Breakfast – also known as brekkies – might be the most important meal of the day, but it seems a lot easier to re3ad about it rather than make it. Would you like to cook, before 7 AM, brioche, haggis and duck egg, lamb kidneys with Madeira, compote of prune and elderflower? I didn’t think so, but invite me over if you do. Gill’s essay is good basic history of the European breakfast. Quality/Price rating: 86. 20. CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN FAMILY COOKBOOK (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 128 pages, ISBN 878-0-470-22939-2, $19.95 US hard covers) is by Larry Flax and Rick Rosenfield, co-founders of the California Pizza Kitchen, which opened first in 1985 and now is a chain of 230 restos in 30 US states and eight countries. The group has also come up with “The California Pizza Kitchen Cookbook” (1996, and with sales of over 250,000) and “California Pizza Kitchen Pasta, Salads, Soups and Sides”. More about the restos are at www.cpk.com. The book is useful for sales at the restaurants, for obviously there are many fans. Here, the concentration is on preps the whole family can both make and enjoy, including all the signature dishes which bear no relation to Italian pizza whatsoever except for the dough. Jerk Chicken? S’mores? Chipotle chicken? And other non-pizzas like mac and cheese, salads, panini, piccatas, Fifty recipes here, largely developed by Brian Sullivan, Senior Vice President of Culinary Development. Quality/Price rating: 83. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JULY 2008 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE!! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. INVESTING IN LIQUID ASSETS; uncorking profits in today’s global wine market (Simon & Schuster, 2008, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-5017-4, $26 US hard covers) is by David Sokolin, a top US wine broker. He took his family’s small Madison Avenue liquor store and turned it into the USA’s largest wine brokerage house. According to the author, the upscale wine market in the USA is increasing. There are handsome profits to be made, although ugly profits are also appreciated. Sokolin only deals in IGWs (Investment Grade Wine), which have outperformed blue chip stocks for the past century. His book deals with how to make money by trading in fine wines. Part One identifies the key players and the principles governing the IGWs in play (in other words, the principals and the principles).There is basic data about what the futures markets are all about. Part Two identifies the best wine regions, styles, and vintages of the past century. This book, of course, is not meant for the average wine drinker, but for the investor or collector. Even the novitiate would know that the best regions are in France (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes, and Champagne), northern Italy (Tuscany, Piedmont), Port, and Rioja. California and Australia wines are okay, but you won’t make much appreciation. Between 1986 and 2007 – 20 years – Sokolin’s Bordeaux portfolio went from $327,400 to $3,273,280. Impressive indeed. To do anything in this business, though, he says that you should buy at least 10 cases minimum for each brand. And there are problems of re- selling and storage if you have the actual physical product near at hand. Audience and level of use: wine readers and wine investors, collectors. Some interesting or unusual facts: “For all the great wines California has to offer, I’ve never made much money in this sector.” The downside to this book: no mention of Hardy Rodenstock, or even of frauds. The upside to this book: the book is useful to us in Canada since wine need never enter nor leave this country. As an investor, you’d simply buy and sell wine as you would with any commodity. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. FOODS THAT FIGHT DISEASE; a nutrition guide to staying healthy for life (Penguin Canada, 2008, 442 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-305657-7, $24 CAD soft covers) is by Registered Dietician Leslie Beck who has authored seven other nutrition books. She appears regularly on TV and radio, and in newspapers (www.lesliebeck.com). Recipe development and nutritional analysis is by Michelle Gelok. This is a guide to what to eat to help prevent the big seven from happening: cancer, stroke, type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure, high blood cholesterol, osteoporosis, and heart disease. Research clearly links certain diets and foods to disease prevention. Thus, you should eat all the right foods and avoid all the worst foods. This should be AS EASY AS PIE to do – but only if you want to live. Her book is a list of valuable foods, oils and beverages, along with how to buy and store and prepare. There are nutritional advisories on carbos, protein, fat, minerals, vitamins and phytochemicals. The 100 recipes are followed by appendices with a power foods checklist, herbs and spices, plus a guide to reading nutrition labels. Her power foods do not mention meat, and fish/seafood is twice a week only. There are end notes but no bibliography. Audience and level of use: this is a good reference book. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: blueberry and roasted walnut spinach salad, whole grain millet waffles with orange and raspberries, blueberry banana smoothie, garlic roasted Brussels sprouts, kasha cabbage rolls, and cashew mango trail mix. The downside to this book: my copy of this paperback book is already yellowing. The upside to this book: there is a general index and a separate recipe index. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. THE SPICE BIBLE; essential information and more than 250 recipes using spices, spice mixes, and spice pastes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 447 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-695-4, $29.95 US paper covers) is a co-publication with the Australian publisher Murdoch Books. Thus, Jane Lawson, the author and former chef, speaks from an Australian background. The recipes use some 45 spices and 15 spice mixes (e.g., curry powder, pickling spice, zahtar) and 15 spice pastes (chili paste, harissa). The book is arranged by part of the plant. First up are the seeds and pods (caraway, cardamom), then the berries and flowers (juniper berry, pepper). Roots and bark are next (cinnamon, horseradish), followed by the pastes and then the mixes. Her notes on the spices show what each is related to (e.g., dill weed is related to aniseed, caraway, coriander, and cumin). Avoirdupois weights and measures are employed, but there is no table of metric equivalents. A bibliography concludes the work. Audience and level of use: cooks, students. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Cajun shrimp with salsa, spicy eggplant, Italian fritters, Asian-flavoured roast chicken, braised pork belly, sesame pork, patates bravas. The downside to this book: some errors like “Arcadian” for Acadian. Also, no metric tables. The upside to this book: there are two indexes, by topic and by recipe. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 4. CARNIVORE CHIC; from pasture to plate, a search for the perfect meat (Viking Canada, 2008, 217 pages, ISBN 978-0-670-06566-0, $35 CAD, hard covers) is by Susan Bourette, once a reporter for the Globe and Mail but now a free-lance investigative writer. Notable log rollers include Chef Jamie Kennedy. She manages to cover high end butcher shops, organic meats, kobe and wagyu meats. Much of the reporting is on beef. She moved across North America and explored or worked at a Manitoba abattoir’s kill floor, an organic meat farmer, a Newfoundland moose hunt, butchering cows, the meat packing district in Manhattan, and steakhouse restaurants. She also eats polar bear in the Beaufort Sea, and alligator in Cajun Louisiana. Her book serves as both a memoir and as a partial history of our eating habits, through an episodic ten chapters. Her main solution to the problems relating to animal treatment, methane emissions and waste disposal is simply to eat less meat but better meat. There are end notes and an index. Audience and level of use: carnivores, memoir readers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “North Americans are eating more meat than ever”: 260 pounds a year each. The downside to this book: no recipes (now, how was that polar bear cooked?) The upside to this book: well-written and somewhat convincing. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 5. FISH FOREVER; the definitive guide to understanding, selecting, and preparing healthy, delicious, and environmentally sustainable seafood (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 438 pages, ISBN 978-0-7645-8779-5, $34.95 hard covers) is by Paul Johnson, owner of the Monterey Fish Market and supplier to many top California chefs (Waters, Keller, Bertolli). He currently serves on the board of Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. Some of the royalties are being donated to “Save Our Wild Salmon”. But there is log rolling from Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café and others living on the Pacific coast. His book tries to show us how to chose seafood that is both sustainable and healthy, despite many ecological and lifesmart issues. He tries to find the least-endangered, least-contaminated, and best-tasting species. There are 70 of these (anchovies, bluefish, squid, tilapia, clams, weakfish, black sea bass, et al) and 96 recipes to use them. Did you know that Alaskan Pollock is 40% of all fish caught in US waters? ALL of it is frozen and processed to imitation-seafood (e.g., crab). This is FOUR BILLION pounds annually, and is mostly sold to restos and supermarkets (packaged for the latter as “breaded fish”). There is an appendix dealing with omega- 3s and mercury (called a “balancing act”), raw seafood, a glossary of health concerns, organic pollutants, fishing and aquaculture methods. The bibliography lists Internet sites. Audience and level of use: seafood lovers, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: catfish tacos, Mediterranean baked cod, minestrone, yellowtail snapper with tomato and tarragon pan sauce, snapper seviche, slow-roasted salmon salad. The downside to this book: nothing on smoked fish. Also, there have been some changes in the past year – skate is now endangered on the East coast, and restos are encouraged to avoid it. The upside to this book: a good book for making choices. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 6. WILD FOOD; a guide to gathering food in the wild (The National Trust, 2008, 96 pages, ISBN 978-1-905400-59-1, $16.95) is by Jane Eastoe. It is a great little book, with excellent colour drawings on foldout pages, albeit with a British orientation. The Trust has arranged the contents by type. There is a chapter on fruit (blackberry, wild plum), nuts-seeds-roots (hazel, horseradish), flowers (borage, elder), seaweed, seafood (oysters, cockles), fungi (ceps, puff balls), plant leaves (dandelion, fennel), and road kill (pheasant, rabbit, deer, badger). For the latter, food prep involves natural enzymatic digestion (also known as rotting) with the aid of maggots and other little beasties. No different than “hanging” game, except the road kill looks a little misshapen. She has a list of resources, all British, with organizations and a bibliography and an index. Audience and level of use: gardeners, foot travelers, intrepid foodies. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Most roadkill has been killed by a blow, which produces a violent but quick end…The meat will be of excellent quality and suitable for eating.” The downside to this book: British orientation, and there are no recipes. The upside to this book: well-conceived and modest price. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 7. THE ART OF THE DESSERT (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 350 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-44381-0, $40 US hard covers) is by Ann Amernick, once an assistant pastry chef at the US White House. She is currently co-owner of Palena in Washington, D.C. and has authored other dessert books. She is assisted here by her former employee, pastry chef Margie Litman (described as “with Margie Litman”). Still, log rolling is produced by Daniel Boulud, among others. She’s had 34 years of baking experience at every level and every location. Here are 100 recipes sorted by cakes, tortes, pies, tarts, cookies, candies, cold desserts, warm desserts, and dessert sandwiches. There are copious cook notes and sidebars with options for embellishing. Recipes are in both avoirdupois and metric for ingredients. The thorough recipes are three to fives page in length. There are conversion pages for eggs and sugar, and for converting volumes to grams. She also has diagrams for roll/fold pastry. Audience and level of use: sweets lovers, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: apricot orange cake, cheese Danish sucree, galette bretonne, almond lace cookies, caramel trifle, orange essence soufflé. The downside to this book: source list is all USA. The upside to this book: she encourages us to scale the ingredients by weight. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 8. FOOD AND FILM; a guide to classic movies (Printorium Bookworks, 2008, 350 pages, ISBN 978-0-9780240-0-0, $39.95 paper covers) is an 8.5 by 11 inch outsized book authored by D.A. Morris and D.C. Chang. Both are movie and food enthusiasts living on the Canadian west coast. The films are from the classic movie period, and do not expressly deal with food as Babette’s Feast, Big Night or Tom Jones would. See Gastronomica’s “Food on Film”, which is more concerned with later movies that deal with a lot of food (this article has no recipes). The book just uses film as a starting point, with food to evoke an atmosphere. The movies here are alphabetically arranged, and include Adam’s Rib, Caine Mutiny, Christmas in Connecticut, Mildred Pierce, Odd Couple, and Rear Window. For each movie, there is a plot synopsis, a still, bios (with pix) of the principals, and some recipes (with pix) tied into the food references. There are food ideas evocative of Waterloo Bridge’s candlelight dinner (roast pheasant, potatoes, figs), or Easy Living’s Automat beef pot pie, The Magnificent Seven’s Mexican dinner, or Desk Set’s last minute meal for harried office workers. All of these you can re-create yourself. Audience and level of use: film buffs with a hankering for mood food. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 9. HE SAID BEER, SHE SAID WINE (Dorling Kindersley, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-3359-2, $25 US hard covers) is by Sam (Beer) Calagione and Marnie (Wine) Old. He’s the brewer and founder/owner of Dogfish Head, plus author of several beer books. She’s Director of Wine Studies at New York’s French Culinary Institute, and is an award-winning sommelier. Both are hip and cool. This is a book on food pairing suggestions. There are recipes for a wine vs. beer dinner party, with both beer and wine recommendations. The first 70 pages are all about basics – which we all know. Only some of it would be worth repeating (i.e., how to taste beer and wine). On page 70, the food pairing begins. The chapters are arranged by food type. There is a section on cheese (type of cheeses played against type of beers and wines), followed by vegetables, sandwiches, pizza and pasta, spicy food, shellfish, fish, poultry, meat, and fruit desserts (sweet wines vs. fruit/brown ales). There are some 20 recipes for in-home pairing of food and beer and wine. But not all beers mentioned are available in all markets, unlike the wines mentioned. Many labels are reproduced, although there are generic recommendations. It does smack of product placements, especially with websites mentioned. Since both authors are experienced in the business of matching alcohol to food, then I would have appreciated more cross-promotion. Sam could do wine stuff and Marnie could do beer/. But they don’t, and that is a shame. Audience and level of use: beer lovers, wine lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “More people dislike the taste of beer than dislike the taste of wine.” (Dean Tudor, not the authors). The downside to this book: just a bit too coy for me, with redundant pix of the winsome couple eating up lots of space. The upside to this book: it is a tough sell for beer since there are only two flavours here, bitter and sweet. As well, every beer is sparkling, and many people don’t like sparkle with their food. So there is a very limited mobility for a beer matching food. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 10. SPAIN AND THE WORLD TABLE (DK Books, 2008, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7566-3387-5, $35US hard covers) is by the Culinary Institute of America, with text by Martha Rose Shulman. It is drawn from the CIA’s 2006 “Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival” at Greystone which dealt with Spain on the world food stage. CIA faculty and staff mixed with leading chefs from around the world. That explains some of the log rolling from Ferran Adria (El Bulli), Charlie Trotter, and Thomas Keller (French Laundry). There are 120 recipes, all Spanish and “Spanish-influenced” from star chefs and the CIA as sourced. The range is from traditional tapas to contemporary seafood to classics (Paella Valenciana), along with sauces, condiments, and desserts. There are sidebars dedicated to Spanish ingredients such as wine and sherry, cheese, olives, salt code, and to Spain’s different culinary regions. The layout is ideal, with a larger typeface for the recipes and usually a picture of a plated product. The preps have both metric and avoirdupois weights and measures for ingredients. The book concludes with a glossary, a listing of US sources, lists of contributors (with bios), and speakers and guest chefs at the conference. Audience and level of use: Spanish food lovers, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: jamon and arugula salad, crispy Cabrales and phylo sandwiches, Manchego coquettes with quinoa sauce, zarangollo ravioli, cold almond and garlic soup, seaweed and tuna toro. The downside to this book: the index is variable. There are no entries for migas or for bocadillos. The glossary doesn’t mention them either. Sangria is only indexed under “Beverages”, not too helpful. The upside to this book: up-close larger-than-life pix of food. They make the tapas look huge. Quality/Price Rating: 89. THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 11. INTRODUCTION TO THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY, seventh edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 539 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-78276-6 soft covers) is by Clayton Barrows (professor at University of New Hampshire) and Tom Powers (professor emeritus at University of Guelph). This introductory volume covers all the basics of the hospitality business: food service plus beverages, lodgings, and travel/tourism. It is meant for those contemplating a career in the sector, or for those taking an introductory course. There is an instructor’s manual and a study guide available. New materials include the changes in tourism and travel since 9/11, more examples of new technology, more focus on gaming and casino destinations, an expansion of information on franchising, more up-to-date profiles and case histories, sections on spas, and Internet exercises for the students. This is a foundation book with excellent layout and design and use of colour and photos. Quality/Price rating: 88. 12. THE JAPANESE TEA CEREMONY: cha-no-yu (Tuttle Publishing, 2008, 283 pages, ISBN 978-4-8053-0914-8, $21.95US soft covers) is by A.L. Sadler. He wrote the book in 1930 when he was a professor at the University of Sydney; it was published in 1933. This time out it has a new forward by Shaun McCabe and Iwasaki Satoko, translators of “Chado: the way of tea”. This is a highly technical and cultural work, with many illustrations and drawings and photographs for every single aspect of the “cha-no-yu”. Included are informations about furniture, utensils, architecture and gardens. Sadler places the ceremony in context of the Japanese culture over the centuries. There’s a bibliography, but it has not been updated since the book’s original publication date. Quality/Price rating: 89. 13 HOW BAKING WORKS; exploring the fundamentals of baking science. Second edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 399 pages, ISBN 978-0-471- 74723-9 soft covers) is by food scientist Paul Figoni (Johnson & Wales University, Rhode Island). Before teaching she worked in product development for baking concerns. This is a more theoretical book, covering the “whys” behind the basic techniques. She explains rationales for each major ingredient. There are separate chapters for wheat flour, “variety grains”, gluten, sugar and sweeteners, gelling agents, fats, egg products, milk products, leavening agents, flavourings, fruit products, nuts and seeds, and chocolate products. Each section has an introduction, review questions, discussion questions, exercises and even experiments. Here are lots of tables, charts and graphs, and even some math. New material includes reworked exercises and an expanded coverage of sweeteners (including stevia), variety grains, enzymes, starch structure, and gluten structure. There is new material on nutrition, dietary fibre, trans fats, and US federal food legislation. Quality/Price rating: 90. 14. DELIA’S HOW TO CHEAT AT COOKING (Ebury Press, 2008, 264 pages, ISBN 978-0-091-92229-0, $39.95 CAD hard covers) is by Delia Smith. This book was first published over 35 years ago, in 1971. It was written for people who didn’t have time to cook, or did not want to. Smith is Britain’s bestselling cooking author with sales of over 18 million copies. Here she presents 150 recipes, all newly recast for our uber modern lifestyles. She invests many classics dishes with tricks and tips and shortcuts, which makes everything either easy or quick (and sometimes both). Topics include soups, starters/sides, meat, chicken, seafood and fish, vegetarian, and desserts. Most of the dishes use some mind of convenience food from the supermarket; these labels are not carried in this country, so you’ll have to figure out what’s available. Illustrated with colour photographs. Quality/Price rating: 80. 15. FUNDAMENTALS OF MENU PLANNING, third edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 258 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-07267-7 soft covers) is by Paul McVety, Bradley Ware, and Claudette Ware – all at Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island. This book has offered a complete review of the principles of planning a menu, including concept development, design mechanics, and menu pricing. New to this edition are appendices such as a glossary and the Food Guide Pyramid. There is also new material on dietary guidelines, labeling and descriptors, and nutrition. Updated menus reflect the changing variety and composition of items, especially as we all seem to be marching to a world global fusion cuisine. There is a new section on restaurant design guidelines, and the review questions have been recast. There are also numerous forms, tables and worksheets. For American restaurants, I do find disturbing the huge increase in wine list prices. The publisher could also have reduced the number of pages in the book: the typeface size is enormous. I do appreciate the 8.5 x 11 size of the page, to accommodate reproductions of menus. Quality/Price rating: 89. 16. AU PIED DE COCHON; the album (Douglas McIntyre, 2006, 2008, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-391-2, $40 CAD paper covers) is by the team at the famous Montreal restaurant, but principally Martin Picard who once opened Toque. In 2001 the resto opened to acclaim, promoting hearty and rustic Quebecois food with a delicate flair. This book was originally published in 2006, and this is the paperback reprint. Here are 55 recipes direct from his kitchen. Just about everything is over-the-top and larded with, well, lard and other fats. There are more than 650 illustrations here (mostly photos) that recount Picard and his staff’s story of the resto’s beginnings and philosophy of food. Unfortunately, the publisher has made it hard to actually use the book since it is oversized (9 x 12 inches) and there is no index. You must consult the two paged table of contents to find a recipe. But then, why would a normal person want to cook from this book? It can be a challenge, especially if you don’t have all the ingredients handy. There is much text on suppliers, which is important information in these times of eating seasonally and locally. Both metric and avoirdupois measurements are listed for all ingredients; the publisher notes “for the best results, we recommend using the metric weights and measures”. Try boudin maison, foie gras hamburger or foie gras poutine (or both, together), oreilles de crises, maple pigs’ feet, cotechino, pot-au-feu. Quality/Price rating: 85. 17. CUISINE AND CULTURE; a history of food and people (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 410 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-74172-5, $39.95 US paper covers) is by Linda Civitello, M.A (History) who teaches food history. This is the second edition; the first won a 2003 Gourmand World Cookbook Award. The basic theme is how history shapes our current diet. The scope is universal, from pre-history to modern times, the grand sweep being a good overview. For the most part, each chapter is an anecdotal survey of a time period and/or region. Later, closer to our new millennium, the focus becomes Western, and then in the 20th century, it is mostly North American. This is a useful textbook for culinary arts courses, to give some sense of history to the preparation of food. Accompanying the narration are some historical drawings and reproductions. There are plenty of sidebars for historical tidbits, as well as pronunciation guides to French and Italian words. The appendix has a cookbook chronology, from Apicius (1st century AD) through La Varenne, Beeton, Escoffier, Davidson), plus notes on why these books are important. There are sample menus and historical recipes, and the writing style is lively. The book concludes with an extensive bibliography, footnotes, and index. New to this edition (50 more pages) are materials on foods and customs moving between cultures, more holiday histories, better coverage of the Byzantine-Ottoman-Austro- Hungarian empires, and greater coverage on genetic modification (GM) of food. Quality/Price rating: 90. 18. NEW GOOD FOOD; shopper’s pocket guide to organic, sustainable, and seasonal whole foods. (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 172 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58008-893-0, $10.95 CAD) is by Margaret M. Wittenberg. She had guided the quality standards of Whole Foods Market for more than 25 years. Her book was originally published in 1997; certainly, there have been tremendous changes and upheavals in the industry since that time. This is actually a manual and glossary to the whole world of whole foods, emphasizing buying, storing and preparing. There are many charts and tables that do a good job of summarizing ingredients and seasons for the purchase and prep work. Foods include grains, fruits, vegetables, legumes and beans, nuts and seeds, oils, eggs, dairy products, seafood, meats, poultry, and seasonings and sugars. “Teff” is covered, but “stevia” isn’t. Still, its comprehensiveness makes it good value for the inexpensive price. Quality/Price rating: 90. 19. HOSPITALITY LAW; managing legal issues in the hospitality industry. Third edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2009, 462 pages, ISBN 978-0-470- 08376-5 hard covers) is by Stephen Barth, a professor of hospitality law at the University of Houston. He also began hospitalitylawyer.com. New to this edition is the reorganization to provide for summaries and beginning information upfront in each chapter. There are also “International Snapshots” offering sidebars from practicing lawyers regarding the differences between US and international laws. This is also useful to us in Canada. There are more samples of contracts; there is more new technology discussed. Through this book, the reader – or student – has online access to an annual case summary of over 100 significant hospitality case decisions. The table of contents includes topics such as: business contracts, business structures, managing property, selecting employees, responsibilities of ownership, guests’ property, and service of food and drink. There is an instructor’s manual. Could be useful in Canada, but it does need “Canadianizing”. Quality/Price rating: 87. 20. EVERYDAY DRINKING; the distilled Kingsley Amis (Bloomsbury, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 302 pages, ISBN 978-1-59691-528-2, $19.99 US hard covers) is a reprint of three books by Amis, on a theme of “drinking”: “Kingsley Amis on Drink”, “Every Day Drinking”, and “How’s Your Glass?” There is a lot here on spirits, booze, hangovers, and wine, including “The Boozing Man’s Diet”, “How Not to Get Drunk”, and “What to Drink with What”. There are some very easy quizzes (with answers) suitable for anybody at a party or a game. As for the Martini, it is stirred, not shaken. Christopher Hitchens provides an introduction. This book comes with a combined index to Amis’ three shorter efforts from 1971- 1984. Quality/Price rating: 88. 21. TECHNIQUES OF HEALTHY COOKING. 3rd edition. (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 578 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-05232-7, $65 US hard covers) is from the Culinary Institute of America. It was first issued as a manual in 1990, and it has evolved somewhat into something bigger. It presents the dietary guidelines (restrictions, nutrients, labeling), with details for healthier choices on menus. The CIA discuses ingredient options and serving sizes. The book develops recipes for menus; there are 400 preps here, many showing how to cook with less of everything (less fat, salt, sugar, alcohol, and – dare I say it – less food). The 150 colour photos illustrate techniques and plated final dishes, as well as ingredients and equipment. Servings are for 10 people, and the ingredients are in both avoirdupois and metric weights and measures. The appendix covers recipe analyses. The resources guide details readings, tables and a glossary. There are two separate indexes for subject matter and for recipes. Quality/Price rating: 90. 22. ASIAN COOKING MADE EASY (Periplus Editions, 2007, 96 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0507-0, $11.95 US spiral bound) was previously published as “LTC Fabulous Asian Homestyle Recipes”. These are all home kitchen meals from China, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore and Vietnam, with different flavours and textures. Many preps here involve making spice pastes. All courses are covered, and weights and measures are expressed in both metric and avoirdupois. The 40 recipes are all photographed in their final plating. No index, but there is a complete listing of the recipe by course. Quality/Price rating: 88. 23. SO YOU WANT TO BE A CHEF? Your guide to culinary careers. Second edition. (John Wiley & Sons, 2009, i.e. 2008, 266 pages, ISBN 978-0- 470-08856-3, 64691-1, paper covers) is by Lisa Brefere, Karen Drummond and Brad Barnes, all US authors and teachers in the cooking arena. It was first published in 2005 in a larger form that also covered career changing. That part has become its own separate book which I reviewed last month: SO YOU ARE A CHEF; managing your culinary career (John Wiley & Sons, 2009 [sic], 149 pages with a CD-ROM, ISBN 978-0-470- 25127-0, paper covers and CD). The current book contains templates and worksheets, sample resumes and portfolios, forms and slides. Working in the hospitality area (some may say “arena”) is appealing to young people, and this book certainly shows options available for the cook. It has discussions on employment as chefs in restaurants, hotels, cruise liners, clubs, catering, and supermarkets. As well, there are chances in mass feeding (universities, schools, health centres, armed forces) plus related areas of research development, private and personal chefs, food writers, food stylists, food photographers, and public relations work. There is one paragraph on “celebrity chefs” (did you know that there actually is an employment category here?). For each type of chef or cook or employment, there are sub-sections on a day in the life, reality, pay, organizations, and job descriptions. The appendix details some culinary professional organizations; 42 are listed, described, given addresses, websites and phone numbers. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 24. MARITIME FLAVOURS; guidebook and cookbook. 7th ed. (Formac Publishing, 2008, 176 pages, ISBN 978-0-88780-768-8, $24.95 CDN paper covers) is By two sisters who are both food writers, Elaine Elliot and Virginia Lee. The first edition was in 1993; this book comes out quite regularly every two years or so. This newest edition has new recommendations to inns and restaurants. They have left the original recipes intact, though many chefs have moved on and restaurants like Chez La Vigne have long closed. All recipes were tested for home use, of course. The profiles cover 91 inns and restaurants, such as those in Wolfville (including Tempest, my daughter’s restaurant: I have a minor conflict of interest here), with a description of the menu and accommodations. Lots of colour photos. But some of the descriptions read like advertorials. The recipes are not particularly Maritime. Do we need another eggplant parmigiana or steak tartare, especially from the Maritimes? What I do like about this book: the recipes work, the plating photos are good, and the book is updated every two years. QPR Rating: 86. 25. PACIFIC FLAVOURS; recipes from the best chefs on Canada’s west coast. 3rd ed. (Formac Publishing, 2008, 160 pages, ISBN 978-0-88780- 756-5, $24.95 CDN paper covers) is by Virginia Lee, a co-author with her sister of other books in the “Flavours” series from Formac. Recipes come from chefs working in Whistler, Vancouver, Victoria, Vancouver Island, and the Okanagan Valley. Over 40 were chosen. The recipes for all courses here are complemented by sommelier Brent Hayman’s BC wine choices. The establishments are profiled at the back, with the usual names and numbers, and some text on what to look for. This revised and updated list includes spas, wineries, and resorts. Just about all preps are local and seasonal, although “Cayman Island Chowder” is a bit of a stretch: even the chef says he substitutes local fish. So why not call it “Caribbean Chowder”? That’s what it is. Quality/Price rating: 88. ---------------------------------------------------- AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JUNE 2008 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE BATTLE FOR WINE AND LOVE, or how I saved the world from Parkerization (Harcourt, 2008, 271 pages, ISBN 978-0-15-101286-2, $23 US hard covers) is by wine writer and bloggist Alice Feiring. It is an exceptional book, and while I may take “exception” with some of what she says or does, it is one of the most interesting reads this year, even this decade…It is mostly a memoir, chronicling her journey through the world of wine. She begins with a 1967 Barolo that turned her around, and later in life she went to Italy to find out more about that particular bottle. She discovers that Robert Parker Junior, by becoming an icon bigger than himself, has created a lust for the jammy fruit bombs with vanilla-cream overtones – a lust shared by both producer and consumer. Just about any Australian-Chilean-Argentine-American wine can be “Parkerized” (definition: created so as to elicit 90 points or more from Robert Parker Junior). And we all know this. Where it gets sticky is when unscrupulous European producers (some large, some small, and who see their sales decline because North Americans are drinking Parkerized wines) decide to change their style and depart from terroir wines to global jammy wines. Feiring hates the style; she loves Euro wines because of their character, earthiness, edge, and their food friendly palate. She visits numerous American wine merchants, and travels to Italy, Spain, Champagne, and Burgundy, detailing all the lies and deceptions of the trade fairs. Some names are mentioned. She believes in authentic wines: sustainable viticulture, hand picking, no added yeasts or enzymes, no added flavours from oak or chemicals, and no processes that alter alcohol and aging levels. Unfortunately, as she notes, too many large (and medium) producers are jumping on the sustainable, natural, and biodynamic bandwagon. And they have NOT been certified. She certainly stomps on them. But as one winemaker in Italy says, “Here is the crime: industry pretends to be artisan and trusting people believe them. This is the crime.” Other chapters deal with UC at Davis and phone interviews with “Bob”. Audience and level of use: wine consumers and wine writers everywhere. Some interesting or unusual facts: “From about the late 1980s onward, the Parker palate has largely dictated how wine is made worldwide.” and “A business [Enologix] was actually thriving by helping wineries shape and coerce a wine into a fat, oaky, thick, dense wine that Parker would give big point to.” The downside to this book: there is no discussion on bottle sizes. Her story about Krug changing its taste profile did not consider that her “good” sample of the new formula was from a half-bottle which had aged faster because of its size. The upside to this book: hey, there is an index! And informative… Quality/Price Rating: 95 (sorry, Alice, I use Parker numbers for books). * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE END OF FOOD (Houghton Mifflin, 2008, 390 pages, ISBN 978-0-618- 60623-8, $26 US hard covers) is by Paul Roberts, an author who writes on resource economics and politics for magazines and newspapers. He wrote the doomsday “The End of Oil” in 2004, and now the failure of the modern food economy is his new theme. Needless to say, his book is endorsed by Michael Pollan (In Defense of Food). This is not a hard book to get in to, although it is depressing. It certainly is a timely book because of the excessive rise in food prices since January 2008. His scope is broad, ranging from making food to marketing food and to moving what we eat. Of course, it is all entwined with OIL, his previous book. So he has done his basic research. And there are extremes here: the “haves” are now obese while the “have-nots” are starving. What’s new and different over the past few years have been the incredible amount of international investments and speculative food futures markets (commodity exchanges). With the entrance of China as a global player, the whole situation has been compounded. Commodity producers have taken over: they spend money on political campaign contributions, lobbying, food security, and transportation (read: oil) costs. They believe in ethanol which is raising grain prices. They set prices yet get government subsidies. Their profit margins grow, they don’t cover deficiencies. They influence trade policies. Worst still, they have managed to convince pension funds to buy into the investments. There are long-term costs associated with commodity producers, and we need to be aware of them. Audience and level of use: foodies, consumers, concerned people everywhere. Some interesting or unusual facts: high volume production creates many food-borne illnesses and food of declining nutritional value. It costs money to fix these, so it is all counter-productive. The downside to this book: some circumstances over the past six months have both augmented and deflected the points he has made. Just another reason why the book format is outdated when it comes to topical issues. The upside to this book: there are extensive endnotes and a bibliography (strangely enough, though, he does not cite Marion Nestle’s 2006 book “What to Eat” although her two other books are there). Quality/Price Rating: 92. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. SAVORY SWEETS; from ingredients to plated desserts (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 253 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-74058-2 soft covers) is by Amy Felder, an instructor at Johnson & Wales University in North Carolina. Fusion cuisine includes savoury desserts and new blends of food emphasizing sweet with sour or bitter or salt. This book presents more opportunities for pastry chefs, as well as for the main course chef. Felder has four sections. One is about a vocabulary explanation of taste and profile principles. Another deals with the culinary skills needed for sauces, foams, and gelees, and their textures. The third covers ingredients of veggies, herbs, spices, dairy products, and the pantry of oils and vinegars. The fourth part (quite extensive) is the plated desserts area: she has a deconstruction of eight specific desserts, each with a separate flavour profile and theme. Much of this, of course, works better with the sweeter veggies such as beets, sweet potatoes, carrots, corn, winter squashes, and vidalias, and the complementary herbal sweet tones of fennel and peppers. She has good notes on what to partner with these foods. There are many sidebars, and a bibliography. Audience and level of use: culinary arts students, current chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes: 21st century gingerbread; tomato trio; beet meets chocolate; corny ice cream sandwich. The downside to this book: The upside to this book: she has several tests for experiencing sour and bitter, sweet and sour, and sweet and bitter in desserts. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 4. 660 CURRIES (Workman, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 809 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7611-3787-0, $22.95 US soft covers) is by Raghavan Iyer, IACP Award- winning Teacher of the Year (2004). He has also written “The Turmeric Trail”, which was a Beard finalist. Strangely, he still needs endorsements from Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Madhur Jaffrey. He defines a curry as “any dish of food simmered in or covered with a liquid redolent with fresh aromatic herbs and/or spices.” This is certainly wide-ranging, and could even embrace Italian ragus. Nevertheless, he uses the definition as a building block for the unique flavours of India, following the spice blends and pastes which reflect sweet-sour- bitter-salty modes. The recipes are arranged by product and course. There are appetizer curries, poultry and egg curries, meats and seafood, paneer (cheese) curries, legume curries, “contemporary” curries, and biryani (layered) curries. Plus some preps for accompaniments (coconut-dusted noodles, lentil pancakes, breads, raitas, rice, potatoes, and even some desserts. The curries are all easy one-dish dinners. He has a bibliography (with a logroller listing eight of Jaffrey’s books), shopping lists, and metric conversion charts. As well, there is a glossary and US mail order sources to complete the package. Audience and level of use: basic levels of use, Indian food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cashew cheese with bell pepper sauce; raisin-stuffed lamb patties; cubed chicken with tomatoes and fresh coconut; braised lamb shanks with a fennel and cumin broth; Goan-style spicy pork sausage; mustard-smothered cod and mushrooms. The downside to this book: this is very fat book, with a signature of coloured pix at the front. This section began to fall out as I used the book. The upside to this book: very comprehensive treatment. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. LEADERSHIP LESSONS FROM A CHEF; finding time to be great (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 176 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-12530-4 paper covers) is by Charles M. Carroll, an executive chef with (in sequence) three country clubs. He has won awards for the US Regional Culinary Olympic Team. This is a motivational book, with detailed attention being given for efficiency and esprit de corps. Then right attitude will get you through the horrors of the pressure chamber called a “kitchen” – or so this book says. He gives an anecdotal tour through the kitchen, sidebars, and forms and templates for quality control and sanitation checklists. His own motivational management theory is SEF: scheduling, empowering, and follow-up. Thus, you’ll need to analyze your attitude, your mission, getting people to work with you and for you, and apply discipline and listening skills. Other sections cover hiring programs and what to look for in people. There is a glossary, inspirational quotes, and aphorisms from Chef Carroll, Audience and level of use: chefs and managers everywhere. Some interesting or unusual facts: Motivation is very difficult in a situation with a low paying job and many different languages being spoken. The downside to this book: more emphasis should have been given to the languages being spoken in the kitchen. The upside to this book: index is extremely useful. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 6. FROZEN DRINKS; an A to Z companion to all your frozen favorites (Adams Media, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 250 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869- 758-2, $12.95 US spiral bound) is by Cheryl Charming, who has authored many bar books over the years. This one is out just in time for summer…The drinks can be made with or without a blender, although using a blender will make the whole process easier (or, you can use lots of shaved ice, an ice cream maker, a frozen drink machine, or simple fridge freezing). Just remember to add alcohol last. Here are 800 preps, with alcohols indicated, mixers, and garnishes. This book goes beyond the usual frozen margaritas and frozen daiquiris. But the dictionary arrangement does have its problems. You’ll need to know what the author thinks is the first letter. For example, she has Three Senoritas and Three Wise Men under “T”, but “3 Musketeers” is at the head of “A” at the very beginning. The index is by ingredient, so this becomes a first place to look. Audience and level of use: for those who live year round in very warm climates. Some interesting or unusual facts: With frozen drinks, you can use fresh ingredients, not store bought. Just puree and freeze seasonally when they become available (or are surplus), and then you can use their coldness to help in the frozen drink part. The downside to this book: there is no separate section or index to non-alcoholic smoothies. The upside to this book: very useful spiral binding. Quality/Price Rating: 7. CATERING; a guide to managing a successful business operation (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 358 pages, ISBN 978-0-7645-5798-9, $45 US, hard covers) is by Bruce Mattel from the Culinary Institute of America. This is yet another successful CIA entry, with detailed advice on every element of the business: how to launch, develop plans, get licenses, establish prices, event planning, staffing and training, develop menus, manage a dining room, marketing, food prep, beverage management, and unruly drinkers/eaters. He covers both on-site and off-site catering (examples of on-site include restaurants, hotels, cruises, clubs, banquet halls – where life is a bit easier since most of these have their own equipment and staff). Mattel has sample menus, resumes, and contracts, along with templates and forms for setting up events. He also gives us some sample recipes for 80 – 100 people. Illustrative matter includes pictures of equipment and sample layouts for the kitchens. This book also has an instructor’s manual for the class teacher. Audience and level of use: culinary arts students, existing caterers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Catering is a popular but competitive field” You’ll need to develop an identity or a signature style. “Caterers should never run out of ice during an event”. The downside to this book: there is no bibliography or listing of web resources for additional data. The upside to this book: nice leading and type size. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. THE PROFESSIONAL PERSONAL CHEF; the business of doing business as a personal chef (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 210 pages, ISBN 978-0-471- 75219-6 hard covers) is by Candy Wallace, founder and Executive Director of the American Personal and Private Chef Association and Institute. Co-author Greg Forte is the Director of the Utah Culinary Institute. “Personal chef” is one of the fastest growing careers in food service. Why? It all hangs with Entitlement and “I gotta be me”, as a rebellion against the close strictures of the kitchen. Those are my thoughts, not the author. PPC is simply self-employment, a free lance cook, and nothing more. Thus, employment opportunities exist like supply teachers and supply waiters. You fill in at dinner clubs, catering firms, dinner parties, teaching culinary arts, working for the rich, and home meal replacement. I could compare this book to any number of other freelance books, especially in journalism, and they would all say the same thing: you’ll need an entrepreneurial business sense in order to succeed. Wallace gives a guide to starting and developing a PPC business by covering the skills and competencies required for certification by the American Culinary Federation’s Personal Certified Chef papers. Her topics embrace: the career paths expected, business ownership, business plan writing and vision statements, managing finances, identifying target markets and revenues, developing sales pitches, and concluding with a “day in the life” of a typical PPC. She presents sample business plans, recipes for menus, forms (client assessment forms, allergy forms, and others). This is a textbook, so it has definitions, summaries, and review questions. The illustrative examples of work are all US. There is an instructor package available at www.wiley.com. Audience and level of use: culinary arts students, those interested in food free-lancing. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 9. 500 HOT & SPICY RECIPES (Lorenz Books, 2007; distr. National Book Network, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7548-1762-8, $29.99 US hard covers) has the subtitle “Bring the pungent tastes and aromas of spices into your kitchen with heart-warming, piquant recipes from the spice-loving cuisines of the world, shown in more than 500 mouthwatering photographs”. The photos aren’t the only things that will make your mouth water – so will the heat from many of these dishes! This book is one of a series from the publisher, “500 [something] recipes”. It has been compiled by Beverley Jollands, a cookbook author. The book is 9.5 by 12 inches, and is quite heavy (over 3.5 pounds). The range is from appetizers to desserts, and is arranged by course. Most of the dishes appear to come from Asia. In India, the cooking is the most complicated. Up to 15 or so spices can be blended to flavour one dish, and the way they are toasted, ground, and added at different stages contributes to the complexity. Thai foods are similar, but with more heat. There are two recipes per page, and they have both metric and avoirdupois measurements for their ingredients. Audience and level of use: overall, there is a wide range of styles, cuisines, and spicing level. Techniques and ease of use will also vary. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shish kebabs with sumac; tagine of beef with roast saffron; fish curry with coconut milk; southern Thai curried vegetables; cardamom-spiced pear tarte tatin; sweet couscous with fruit compote. The downside to this book: large and awkward in the kitchen. It is best to photocopy the recipes that you will be using. The upside to this book: each dish gets a photo of the finished product. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 10. HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGEMENT IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY (John Wiley & Sons, 2009, 490 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-08480-9 hard covers) is by David Hayes, managing owner of the Clarion Hotel in Lansing, Michigan, and Jack Ninemeier, professor at Michigan State University. This is a basic text on human resource management, skewed to the hospitality industry. What makes it work are the relevant examples that pertain to the industry, both anecdotal and legal. The legislation and regulations used are, of course, all American, as are the case studies. But there are some international complexities here, discussed in a section on national differences. This embraces operating in a foreign country (abide by their laws) and servicing foreign guests (whose social mores must be attended to). Covered are the basics of employment law and HR policies, recruitment, training programs, compensation, performance appraisals, environmental and safety issues, and ethics. Mentioned are unions, mainly in the context that this is traditionally a low paying industry. The industry also has a lot of part-timers, and there is continual downsizing and outsourcing if the economy slackens (and the unions get involved). Each chapter has summaries, glossary of terms, case studies, Internet activities, and review questions for discussion. There are endnotes, and the book comes with both a student study guide and an instructor’s manual (purchased separately). Audience and level of use: hospitality students. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Managers and supervisors with human resources responsibilities will be challenged to manage according to the labor agreement while addressing the needs of the guests being served.” The downside to this book: it is US driven, but the principles have some application to Canada. Also, the index has too small a font size. The upside to this book: lots of forms, tables and sidebars. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 11. 500 SOUP RECIPES (Lorenz Books, 2007; distr. National Book Network, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7548-1771-0, $29.99 US hard covers) has the subtitle “An unbeatable collection including chunky winter warmers, oriental broths, spicy fish chowders, and hundreds of classic, chilled, clear, creamy, meat, bean and vegetable soups.” This book is one of a series from the publisher, “500 [something] recipes”. It has been compiled by Bridget Jones, a cookbook author. The book is 9.5 by 12 inches, and is quite heavy at more than 3.5 pounds. The arrangement is by type, including separate sections on noodle soups, rice soups and vegetarian soups. There is a brief beginning section on soup-making strategies: making stock, whisking soup, sieving, pureeing, thickening, and flavouring. Throughout there are a variety of spicing levels, varying ingredients, and textures. There are fruit soups too. There are two recipes per page, and they have both metric and avoirdupois measurements for their ingredients. Audience and level of use: intermediate. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chilled almond soup; mushroom, leek and shallot soup; summer herb soup with radicchio; mixed vegetables in coconut broth; beef noodles in oxtail broth; hot and spicy chicken soup with charmoula butter. The downside to this book: large and awkward in the kitchen. It is best to photocopy the recipes that you will be using. The upside to this book: each dish gets a photo of the finished product. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 12.MASTERING KNIFE SKILLS; the essential guide to the most important tools in your kitchen (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 224 pages plus DVD, ISBN 978-1-58479-667-1 $35 US hard covers plus DVD) is by Norman Weinstein, a chef at the Institute of Culinary Education (NYC). He’s spent a few decades teaching everyone in the business, from beginner to seniors, how to use knives properly. There’s a competitor, which I reviewed last month (IN THE HANDS OF A CHEF; the professional chef’s guide to essential kitchen tools (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 170 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-08026-9, $24.95 US soft covers, from the Culinary Institute of America). Both books give basic knife skills for cutting, slicing, and chopping: to julienne, to chiffonade, to baton, and to quarter. Basic background material covers a guide to knives, how to assemble a knife kit, how to sharpen, how to build your knife skills, and how to use other related implements such as specialty knives for cheese, offset knives, and Japanese knives. These all come with instructional colour photos (the Wiley book only has black and white). Here there is plenty of data on how to slice and dice onions, butterfly a roast, peel and core, and make wings and wedges. Weinstein throws in a bibliography and a listing of websites and US sources of supply. Audience and level of use: beginners, chef students. Some interesting or unusual facts: the author comments on cutting boards and their maintenance. The upside to this book: I had commented on the Wiley book “it would still be nice to actually see knife work in action, perhaps by DVD.” And my request was granted, but by Stewart, Tabori & Chang: a 30 minute DVD of techniques is included! Quality/Price Rating: given the colour, the DVD, and the hardback publication, I’d have to give this one 1 91. 13. SO YOU ARE A CHEF; managing your culinary career (John Wiley & Sons, 2009 [sic], 149 pages with a CD-ROM, ISBN 978-0-470-25127-0, paper covers and CD) is by Lisa M. Brefere, Karen Eich Drummond, and Brad Barnes, all culinary educators, consultants and authors of books for student and professional chefs. Despite the 2009 copyright notice, this book was just published in May of 2008. It was originally a large section in their earlier book “So You Want to Be a Chef?” It was thought that the job search business meant that you were ALREADY a chef, so that material was hived off into this follow-up book. So this current title is a basic career guide, meant for both graduating students and for chefs wishing to change jobs. It tries to answer meaningful questions such as: where to look, how to target a search, how best to present your resume, and the like. The CD-ROM contains documents, templates, forms and worksheets to help organize your thoughts. It has checklists and material for cover letters and thank- you letters. Each of the five major chapters covers a theme, such as resume, job search portfolio, contacting, interviewing, and career advancement. All sections have exercises to work through. There is an appendix of some 41 culinary professional organizations, detailing what each one does, addresses and phone numbers, and websites. Audience and level of use: culinary students, chefs changing positions. Some interesting or unusual facts: there is also an instructor’s manual available. The downside to this book: more detail could have been presented in the section on career advancement. The upside to this book: the index is important, for you can look up “cover letter” and get a list to some 12 references. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 14. FURTHER ADVENTURES IN SEARCH OF PERFECTION; reinventing kitchen classics (Bloomsbury, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 319 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7475-9405-5, $45 Canadian hard covers) is by Heston Blumental, chef- owner of the Fat Duck in the UK, getting three Michelin stars in 2004. It was voted best restaurant in the world in 2005. The following year he was awarded an OBE; his motto is “Perfection Takes Time”. This book is based on the BBC cooking series of the same name. His search for the perfect versions of (among others) roast chicken and pizza are complemented in this sequel by a search for the most perfect versions of hamburger, risotto, Peking duck, chili con carne, trifle, baked Alaska. Eight in all. He goes to India for chicken tikka masala and to Italy for risotto. This is the quest for the best, as he says, and is quite engaging in style. He has lots of photos and descriptive pix. Everything, of course, is complicated, but then the end products are superb. The Peking duck goes on and on for three courses. There’s a supply list that is all country-of-origin (e.g., the risotto stuff is sourced in Italy, the Peking duck is sourced from Beijing) and a bibliography for background reading. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 15. BBQ JOINT; stories and secret recipes from the barbecue belt (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0218-7, $15.95US paper covers) is by David Gelin. He has been endorsed by BBQ and folklore specialists. These are stories from the proverbial “hole- in-the-wall” restaurants that are off the beaten track and serve locals only. These are the places to find great barbecues. He also has anecdotes and histories of the joints covered – and, of course, recipes. States covered include from Alabama to Texas, all of the South. Sixty establishments are noted, such as five in Tennessee (Hog Heaven, Sportsman’s BBQ, Scotts BBQ, Payne’s BBQ, and Three Little Pigs BBQ). Not every place has a recipe listed. Try a North Alabama White Sauce (mostly for chicken), Arkansas BBQ rice, a Florida cassava with garlic sauce, or a South Carolina hash. There’s a chapter on building your own BBQ pit, and a location map for travelers. Quality/Price rating: 85. 16. CAPE BRETON TASTES; recipes from Cape Breton’s best restaurants (Nimbus Publishing, 2008, 80 pages, ISBN 978-1-55109-657-5, $22.95 paper covers) has been assembled by Gary Walsh. He has 28 recipes from 28 restaurants on Cape Breton. There are also plenty of photos of scenery and plated dishes. The preps cover all courses, from starters to desserts, and especially with seafood. While there is a listing of all the restos at the end of the book, there are no street addresses, phone numbers or web sites. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used, but there is no table of metric conversions. And no index to the recipes…Arichat on Cape Breton has L’Auberge Acadienne with its chicken fricot with bannock; Cheticamp’s Restaurant Acadien has pate a la viande (meat pie); Louisbourg’s Cranberry Cove Inn has seafood chowder; and Malagawatch’s Cape Breton Smokehouse has a smoked salmon quiche. A nice production despite my caveats. Quality/Price rating: 86. 17. COOKING WITH JOHNNY VEE; international cuisine with a modern flair (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0155-5, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Vee, who has cooked all over, finally settling in as a food writer and cooking school owner in Santa Fe, New Mexico (www.lascosascooking.com). Vee is Chef John Vollertsen who was once a sous at the Coyote Café. This is a book for entertaining, with material drawn from his classes. The cuisine is mainly global fusion (Moroccan, Thai, Australian), but it also draws quite heavily on local New Mexican chili lore and recipes. There are sidebars on tips and techniques. You’ll also need a pantry (fully described here) with spices, oils, vinegars, rices, flours, and sauces. The book has been arranged by class topic: green chile festival, red chile festival, New Year brunch, and others. The publisher has added metric conversion charts. But there are too many. Try any of: chocolate pine nut tacos, red chile pork tamale, beer battered artichoke fritters, Indonesian chicken laksa, or pecan- and herb-crusted salmon. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 18. CAKE LOVE; how to bake cakes from scratch (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-662-6, $27.50US hard covers) is by Warren Brown, who opened his CakeLove bakery in 2002 (a year later he opened LoveCafe). He has hosted the Food Network’s US show “Sugar Rush”. The more than 75 recipes concentrate on cakes, and there are about 150 colour photos, many detailing step-by-step approaches. Chapter headings include pound cakes, butter cakes, and foam cakes. Other sections deal with frostings and glazes, fillings, meringues, and “assembly”. The book has conversion charts, but these are all avoirdupois with the conversion being from weight to volume or vice versa, and not metric. About fifty cakes are covered, such as chocolate pound cake, citron bundt, yellow butter cake, and Mr. Banana legs. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 19. ITALY, THE ROMAGNOLI WAY; a culinary journey (Lyons Press, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-59921-244-9, $24.95US hard covers) is by Franco and Gwen Romagnoli. Franco, with his first wife, created the PBS TV cooking series in the 1960s: “The Romagnolis’ Table”. It was the first Italian cooking show, and they wrote nine cookbooks and opened many restaurants in the Boston area. With his second wife (a food and travel writer), he here explores the little known places of Italy, complete with carefully chosen recipes. They visit 18 regions, from North to South. They talk to local farmers and producers. From Lago d’Orta comes trota affogata (trout), from Trentino-Alto Adige comes canederli in brodo (pasta soup), from Emilia- Romagna there is a timballo, Tuscany contributes a coniglio in salmi, and Sicilia has cucusu co’ a ghiotta ‘e pisci. No general index, but there are two indexes for the 40 recipes, by region and by course. Preps use avoirdupois weights and measures, but there are no metric tables of equivalents. Overall, a nifty travel book (with colour photos) but there is hardly anything on wines and cheeses. Quality/Price rating: 87. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR MAY 2008 ========================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. FOOD AND WINE PAIRING; a sensory experience (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 322 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-79407-3 soft covers) is by Robert Harrington, now teaching at the University of Guelph. It claims to be “the only book that presents food and wine pairing from a culinary and sensory perspective”. By that, I guess the author means that FOOD is the first consideration, and wine accompanies food’s tastes – which is as it should be. Other such books emphasize the wine first, and go into long detail about how you don’t want food to overpower the wine. Here, Harrington concentrates on terminology and methodology of sensory analysis, along with the relationship and reactions between food and wine components, flavours and textures. He maps the palate with the taste components of sweet, sour, salt, and bitter in food, plus fats and proteins. Those comparable sensations in wine follow the terms of body, acidity, effervescence, tannins and oak. The culinary perspectives are topmost here: you have the food, now find the wine. He covers flavour variations in spicing levels, intensity and persistence. Consideration is also paid to regional wines and regional foods, and to how and why they pair so well together. Attention is also paid to tackling cheese textures and desserts, both very important when assessing wine pairings. For desserts, he has a large section on Ontario VQA dessert wines. This leads to menu planning decisions. Extra material here concerns service training for staff and wine list development. There are samples of real wine lists and tasting notes. For students, there are exercises, outlines, and a description of key terms, as well as anecdotal sidebars and forms. An instructor’s manual and companion website complete the set. Audience and level of use: students, interested consumers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Harrington has considerable mention of VQA wineries and restaurants such as Toronto’s Canoe. The downside to this book: a bit too technical in place, but this is great for showing off by sommeliers. The upside to this book: there are lots of forms for photocopying. These exercises are useful for consumer groups too. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. MAYAN CUISINE; recipes from the Yucatan region (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0131-9, $34.95 US hard covers) is by Daniel Hoyer, author of other Mexican cookbooks, and former sous-chef at Coyote Café. He also leads culinary tours into Mexico. Mayan food means primarily chocolate, tropical fruits, and seafood. Hoyer places it all into a cultural and historical context, saying that the most popular “tourist” places to get this food is in Yucatan, Belize, Cancun, and Playa del Carmen. His scope includes fresh salsas, soups, BBQ, salads and sides, as well as desserts and beverages. You’ll need a pantry, sort of like a Mexican pantry. The distinctive flavours come from Mayan “recados” (or, recaudos) which here means seasoning pastes. There are about 125 recipes and variations. The ingredients and sources list are all US, but there is a metric conversion chart for the avoirdupois weights and measures used in listing the ingredients. Check his website for more www.welleatenpath.com. Audience and level of use: tourists, Mexican and Caribbean food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: avocado soup, Maya chocolate drink (chorreado), papaya marmalade, Mayan-style grilled fish, Caribbean coconut fish soup, turkey in black sauce with stuffed pork roll, pit-roasted chicken, smoked pork stew. The downside to this book: menus might have been useful, to show how dishes go together. Wine notes could also have been appreciated. The upside to this book: good photography and a good size for the typeface. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. THE GEOGRAPHY OF WINE; how landscapes, cultures, terroir, and the weather make a good drop (Plume, 2008, 289 pages, ISBN 978-0-452-28890- 4, $16US paper covers) is by Brian Sommers, a geography professor at Central Connecticut University. He teaches a course entitled the geography of wine. He does a good job in exploring terroir through wine regions, in order to explain wine character. Just some of the places include St. Emilion, the Rhine, Bordeaux, Loire, California, Oporto, South Africa, Burgundy and Champagne. He tries to answer three pressing questions every winery is dying to find out: where should we develop new vineyards? what grapes are best and suited for a given location? where should we market our wine? Best examples of terroir and choice of grapes can be found in Bordeaux and in a comparison of riesling and chardonnay regions. He discusses climate, microclimates, grape varieties, soils, natural hazards, winemaking styles, politics, urbanization, marketing, and wine tourism. There is a bibliography for further reading. Audience and level of use: wine buffs, sommeliers. Some interesting or unusual facts: he has separate chapters on beers and spirits and ciders, and their place in history and their regions. This would include Scottish malts and local peats and waters, and local varieties of cider apples. The downside to this book: he uses the term “iced wines”, not “ice wine” – why? He only has one paragraph for terroir, with no mention of Canada or Germany. He has more detail about botrytis and Sauterne. The upside to this book: good material on GPS and GIS and computer cartography. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 4. CHEFMD’S BIG BOOK OF CULINARY MEDICINE; a food lover’s road map to losing weight, preventing disease, and getting really healthy (Crown Publishers, 2008, 300 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-39462-0, $24.95 US hard covers) is by John La Puma, an MD with chef’s papers from Chicago’s Cooking and Hospitality Institute. It comes heavily endorsed by eight people: doctors, CEOs, authors, and TV producers. The original subtitle, according to the publicity catalogue, was “deliciously heal anything that ails you”. I think they thought the better of it. La Puma’s goal of culinary medicine is to create recipes and to use foods in meals that prevent or control common health conditions without sacrificing restaurant-quality taste. This is something that we should all shoot for. He promotes an Eight Week Plan, with recipes and menus based on three principles: eat food with good bio-availability (the conditions for absorbing relevant oils and vitamins), avoid anti- nutrient food, and eat to feel full faster. The basics of nutrition are presented, as well as possible food combinations and the glycemic index. He has lots of sidebars, menus and recipes. You can get more details at www.chefmd.com Audience and level of use: dieters. Some interesting or unusual facts: apparently, they don’t teach nutrition courses at medical school. Of 116 in the USA, 68 have no requirement for graduation. The other 48 have an average of two credits (less than a course). The downside to this book: a bit preachy, but this can be useful. The upside to this book: topical bibliography. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 5. MERMAID COOKBOOK (Gibbs Smith, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 64 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0417-4, $14.95 US spiral bound) is by Barbara Beery, who founded Batter Up Kids in 1991 to offer interactive cooking classes for kids. AND 6. THE GOOD FOOD BOOK FOR FAMILIES (Random House Canada, 2008, 306 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35670-3, $25 Canadian soft covers) is by Brenda Bradshaw, a Vancouver elementary school teacher who had previously co- authored “The Baby’s Table” and Dr. Cheryl Mutch, a consultant pediatrician. AND 7. BETTY’S BEST; simple comfort food from grandma’s kitchen (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 135 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0244-6, $9.95 US spiral bound) is by Betty Rohde, who has written many low-fat cookbooks. Each book has its merits, and they are grouped here because kids are involved. “Mermaid” has only 30 recipes, being themed for the seaside with items relating to pirates, treasure island, and mermaids. It’s useful for sleepovers, birthday parties, and playtime. The book is meant for kids to help out – it’s listed as “for ages 6 and up”. “Good Food Book” has 150 recipes of healthy eating for the whole family to eat together. Even prepare together, as these are kid friendly preps. It’s arranged by course (breakfast, lunch, snacks, and dinner). Many recipes can be prepared in bulk ahead of time and frozen for future togetherness at the table. This is a great idea that needs to be re-emphasized, especially with the kids helping out for the future meal. There are sidebars that address finicky eaters of all ages. The bibliography and notes are mainly off the web, but they might have disappeared since printing. Canada’s Food Guide 2007 is extensively used as the basis for selecting foods. The authors have some good notes on how to raise a healthy eater. Sample menus conclude the book. “Betty” has quick and easy preps, such as “sausage balls” made with Bisquick, purchased sausage meat, and cheddar cheese. Other convenience foods are also used, such as canned soups. She tries to recreate the childhood dinners of carrot cake, apple pie, date bars, macaroni salads, French toast, chicken and dumplings, diverse salads and soups. This is the bake, fry and roast of Middle America. Kids can help here in these recipes. Audience and level of use: families Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from “Mermaid”, there are sea foam floats, treasure island trail mix, sea turtle cookies, and rainbow fish fudge. From “Betty”, there are standard iconic preps such as banana nut bread, brownies, Johnny cake, mud cake, pecan pie, pumpkin pie, oatmeal cookies. From “Good Food” come banana nutmeg porridge, raspberry banana smoothie, meatball sandwich, BBQ flank steak, basil pesto, and autumn roasted tomato soup. The downside to this book: “Mermaid” does not have an index, but then it only has 30 recipes. “Good Food Book” has sickly green as its second colour: a very pale choice when it is used for listing the ingredients. The upside to this book: both US books have metric conversion charts, but unfortunately it is regrettable that the Canadian book does not. This should not have happened. Quality/Price Rating: “Mermaid” gets 82, as does “Betty”. “Good Food Book”, with its non-metric character and poor colour choice, gets 85. 8. ANYTHING BUT CHARDONNAY; a guide to the other grapes (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58479-661-9, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Laura Holmes Haddad. The title is a misnomer, since chardonnay IS indeed covered in the book (p.16-17) and is given more space than many other grapes – most just get a page. Having said that, I think the idea was a good one: a guide to the other, mostly minor grapes. But too, red wines are also included, so it is not just a guide to white wines. What are we to think of pinotage? I don’t know a single white wine drinker that would even consider pinotage with its dark, dense, smokey, tannic and bitter flavours. So while this is a wine book for beginners, I really was expecting only WHITE wine coverage. The title should have been: “ABC – anything but chardonnay and cabernet”… She’s pretty good on basic exploration of “albarino” and “viognier”, plus many ubiquitous off-dry U.S. white blends such as Conundrum, Sokel Blosser Evolution, Bonny Doon Big House White, and Ménage a Trois White. This is the hottest wine trend today. For each white and red varietal, she describes where it is from, what it tastes like, producers to look for, and what you will pay in the US. She includes price ranges, food pairing, recipes and wine trivia. Audience and level of use: unsure beginners who want to explore. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lemon asparagus fettuccine; sesame crusted salmon; fig and gorgonzola crostini; Moroccan lamb tagine. The downside to this book: needs more dedicated space for blends. The upside to this book: good idea. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 9. THE PASTRY CHEF’S COMPANION, a comprehensive resource guide for the baking and pastry professional (John Wiley & Sons, 2009, 375 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-00955-0, $19.95 US soft covers) is by Glenn Rinsky, chef-instructor at Jefferson State Community College and Laura Rinsky, hospitality course designer at Hewitt-Trussville High School – both in Alabama. This is an interesting hybrid reference book, being pitched to culinary students, professionals, and pastry/baking enthusiasts. Certainly, it is available at a bargain price. There are definitions, pronunciations, information, and resources. About 4800 terms are defined with word origins and historical background (but not always), and there are 10 appendices of charts and lists. These listings include specialty vendors, professional organizations, and websites. Through this book, the reader can glean some fads and trends. The authors have black and white drawn illustrations of unique pastry products and equipment. Audience and level of use: chefs, culinary hospitality schools, interested readers of food books. Some interesting or unusual facts: there is a troubleshooting guide to fixing common baking and pastry problems. The downside to this book: some inattention to details intrudes, such as (under “crumpet ring”) their statement that crumpets are flipped. The book is not always in historical context as promised – there is no derivation for “chess pie” (how did it get that name?). And some typos such as “kahula” for kahlua. The upside to this book: confectionary arts are also covered. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 10. IN THE HANDS OF A CHEF; the professional chef’s guide to essential kitchen tools (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 170 pages, ISBN 978-0-470- 08026-9, $24.95 US soft covers) is from the Culinary Institute of America. Here are basic knife skills: to julienne, to chiffonade, to baton, and to quarter. Basic background material covers a guide to knives, how to assemble a knife kit, how to sharpen, how to build your knife skills, and how to use other related implements (peelers, pitters, scoops – even pastry bags). These all come with instructional black and white photos. Chapters are arranged by food types: veggies and fruit, meat and poultry, and fish. The CIA includes chapters on specialty knives such as ice carving tools and a whole slew of Japanese knives. Audience and level of use: beginners, chef students. The downside to this book: if would still be nice to actually see knife work in action, perhaps by DVD. The upside to this book: there is a nice table of weights and measures, and a useful index. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 11. CHOCOLATES & CONFECTIONS: formula, theory, and technique for the artisan confectioner (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 388 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7645-8844-0, $65 US hard covers) is by Peter Greweling of the Culinary Institute of America. He concentrates on artisanal confectionary production techniques, such as tempering chocolate and candying fruit. Behind it all is the theory and science of candy and chocolate processing. Styles are covered as well. 140 formulas and variations are presented, including dairy based centers of butter and cream ganache. Crystalline and non-crystalline structures are covered, as well as jellies, nut centers, and aerated confections. All of these include marzipan, nougat, truffles, fondants, fudges, brittles, toffee, and taffy. There are 162 photos and line drawings of processes and finished products. The book is loaded with charts and there are lots of standard recipes. Audience and level of use: hospitality schools Some interesting or unusual facts: there is a glossary, a bibliography, and a listing of websites. Quality/Price Rating: 87. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 12. GORDON RAMSAY’S SUNDAY LUNCH; and other recipes from the f word (Quadrille Publishing, 2006, 256 pages, DVD, ISBN 978-1-84400-280-1, $39.95US hard covers) is by the eponymous restaurant owner-chef and TV personality. It comes with a 30 minute DVD with footage (digitage?) of Ramsay cooking a Sunday lunch menu. The spirit of this book, now being released in North America, is to get families and friends eating together. Obviously, Ramsay does not know that most major fights amongst family members come from such occasions (think birthdays, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and the like). Nevertheless, here are 25 menus for quick entertaining. It is all based on a TV series he did. Ramsay has sold almost a million books over the course of his writing career. One emphasis here is on ethnic cuisine: Italian, Indian, Moroccan and Malaysian. There are special menus for summer cooking and Christmas dinner, and other times when you need a pig roast or paella for a crowd. Ramsay leaps in at the shopping stage, and tries to help us co- ordinate everything through to the desserts. One problem he tackles is how to get several dishes to arrive on the table simultaneously. Bold print is used for the ingredients, which are listed in either avoirdupois for volume or metric for weights. Try ginger and port marinated lamb skewers, honey mustard pork chops, fig and frangipane tart, or cardamom and rosewater fragrant rice. Quality/Price rating: 88. 13. GARDE MANGER; the art and craft of the cold kitchen, third edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 666 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-05590-8, $70US hard covers) is by the Culinary Institute of America. Garde Manger is the art and technique of preparing a full range of cold dishes for buffet, banquet, and catering events. This includes hors d’oeuvre, appetizers, terrines and pates, and charcuterie. The 540 recipes included in this book are revisions and updating, which take into account the global cuisine of today. There are 40 more preps than in the second edition. New to this edition is material on microgreens, international sandwiches, bringing ratios, fermented sausages, artisanal US cheeses, tapas tasting menus, savoury sorbets, and the raw bar. The book is meant for both students and practitioners. The opening sections deal with history of banquets, the needed skills, safe food handling techniques, the flavours, colours and textures of food for the table. Cost controls and price establishment are also important here. Recipe sections include cold sauces, soups, salads (flavour balances), sandwiches, curing and preserving meats and fish, cheeses (including presentations). There are also chapters with chaud-froid, aspics, gelees, marinades, condiments, and garnishes. Decorating and plating are also included, especially platter layouts and design. The book is well-stitched, so it will put up with much wear and tear. Quality/Price rating: 88. 14. BARTENDER’S GUIDE; a A to Z companion to all your favorite drinks (Adams Media, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 528 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869- 764-3, $14.95 US spiral bound) is by John K. Waters. It was originally published in 2006 by F + W; this is a new paper edition without changes. Waters is a journalist who once worked the bar for more than a decade. He has 2,000 drinks here, with step-by-step mixing directions, proper glassware and garnishes, how to stock a home bar, and product and drink index. Good typeface, elegant layout, and simple to use. Quality/Price rating: 90. 15. DESIGN AND LAYOUT OF FOOD SERVICE FACILTIIES. Third edition. (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 343 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-69963-7 hard covers) is by John C. Birchfield, a foodservice consultant and designer. This well-known book gets a makeover which includes an expanded focus on the front of house and dining room areas, new equipment with new photos, new blueprints highlighting design trends, and new review questions for students. The long appendices feature lists of associations with industry web links, typical facility designs, sample documents and forms, a glossary (“boil-in bag” is here, but not “sous vide”), and an updated bibliography. There is also an instructor’s manual. Quality/Price rating: 87. 16. THE ART OF MEXICAN COOKING; traditional Mexican cooking for aficionados (Clarkson Potter, 1989, 2008, 496 pages, ISBN 978-0-307- 38325-9, $30US hard covers) has now returned to print. It was the first real Mexican cookbook in the US; Diana Kennedy shares her 200 recipes here in this classic reissue. The major staples are covered (tortillas, tamales, masa, pork, beef, seafood, sauces, chiles, desserts). Kennedy has also written four or more other Mexican cookbooks with little duplication – just the basics are repeated. Some corrections, clarifications, and metrification have been made (but there are still no tables of equivalencies). Some of the back material and colour illustrations are gone. Her “Preface” is a gem: she laments the decline of Mexican food due to commercialization, and encourages slow food principles. Her bibliography has not been updated except to note that one book had been revised in 1998 – and what is Paula Wolfert’s southwest France book doing there? Quality/Price rating: 92. 17. THE RESTAURANT; from concept to operation. Fifth edition.(John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 493 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-74057-5 hard covers) is by John R. Walker, a hospitality professor at the University of South Florida. This book has always been a one-stop guide to the resto biz, and is well-read in hospitality schools. It comes with an instructor’s manual and a study guide. New to this edition is greater emphasis on business plans and the independent operator, a new chapter on food production and sanitation, new profiles on recently opened restaurants, newer material on use of technology in restaurants, and expanded sections on back of house and controls. Although heavily pitched to the US scene, there is enough of value here to us in Canada. Quality/price rating: 89. 18. GRAND LIVRE DE CUISINE; Alain Ducasse’s Culinary Encyclopedia (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2004, 2008; distr. Canada Manda Group, 1080 pages, ISBN 978-2-84844-038-5, $80US) was originally published in French by Les editions Culinaires. De Gustibus collaborated to produce a 2004 edition for the US, with the English translation. All metric measurements were put in parentheses, and avoirdupois was stressed for each ingredient; there is also a page for weights and measure conversions. It was all compiled by Jean-Francois Piege, with Didier Elena, Franck Cerutti, Patrick Ogheard, and Benoit Witz, all chefs who worked with Ducasse. Chloe Chauveau and Isabelle Cappelli did the re- write of the original version. The book summarizes Ducasse’s quarter century leadership in French cuisine. There are more than 700 recipes here, using about 100 basic ingredients (not all at once, of course) spread around 10 main cooking styles. There are about two pages for all of the major recipes, with the ingredients, techniques, instructions, photo of the finished plate, and suggested tips and advice for processing and/or finishing the dish. Basic recipes include making stocks and sauces and soups. Typical classic dishes (listed and titled in both English and French) include kid goat and sorrel ragout, porchetta, country garlic croquettes, frog leg vol au vents, spiced semi-wild duckling, slow-cooked young Bresse hen (as if we can get that here in North America)...Still, 5.5 pounds of book makes it awkward to use in the kitchen, and there are some typos (such as “arctic char”). Try also the website www.alain-ducasse.com. Quality/Price rating: 85 (higher if it didn’t cost so much). 19. GELATO! Italian ice creams, sorbetti & granite (Ten Speed Press, 2000, 2008, 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-923-4, $14.95US paper covers) is by Pamela Sheldon Johns. It was originally published in 2000; this is the paperback release. The publisher claims 30,000 hard copies were sold. Johns gives a fairly interesting history of ices in Italy, noting that Sicily grows 90 percent of the citrus for the Italian market. There are 50 recipes for gelato and dishes which use ices. Accompanying biscuits, wafers, and sauces are also included. Try orange sorbetto, chocolate soufflé semifreddo, peach gelato, mascarpone gelato, sorbetto bellini, and duomo (dome). A nifty affordable book. Quality/Price rating: 88. 20. MANAGEMENT BY MENU. Fourth edition. (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 411 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-47577-4 soft covers) is by Lendal H. Kotschevar, who was professor emeritus at Florida International University until his death in 2007, and Diane Withrow, a hospitality teacher at Cape Fear Community College in North Carolina. The book has been extensively revised, but it has not lost sight of its tying a menu to management principles. Material includes, of course, how to create and manage a menu. It has updated chapters on the uses of new technology in menu development, accuracy in menus, and using the menu as a marketing tool. Also added is a chapter on ethical leadership in resto management. This is a good book to have for anyone participating in Gordon Ramsay’s “Kitchen Nightmares”. There’s a whole chapter con wine and other beverage service, highlighting the latest thinking on the construction of a wine list and wine pricing. Also available is an instructor’s manual and a study guide. Quality/Price rating: 89. 21. ARTHUR SCHWARTZ’S NEW YORK CITY FOOD; an opinionated history and more than 100 legendary recipes (Stewart, Chang & Tabori, 2004, 2008, 400 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-677-0, $27.50 US paper covers) won the IACP Award for Cookbook of the Year in 2005. Schwartz was food editor of the New York Daily News. His book was released four years ago, and is now reissued. There are 160 “classic” New York City recipes here, as well as vintage menus, postcards, and culinary histories starting with the Dutch invasion. Revisit Delmonico’s, the Colony, the Automats, the Jewish restaurants, and why New York is the home of chocolate mavens. And speaking of which, check out his website www.thefoodmaven.com for more details. Try Omelet Surprise, Eggs Benedict, Lindy’s cheesecake, Manhattan clam chowder, macaroni and cheese from the Automat. Quality/Price rating: 89. 22. CANADIAN HOSPITALITY LAW; liabilities and risk. 3rd ed. (Thomson Nelson, 2007, 401 pages, ISBN 978-0-17-640721-6, $106.95 Canadian, soft covers) is by Donald Longchamps, an instructor at Algonquin CAAT in Ottawa, and Bradley Wright, an Ottawa business lawyer. It was first published in 1999; the second edition was in 2002. Lanchamps developed the first edition. They begin with the basics of the law (The Legal Framework), moving on to Human Rights in the hospitality industry, general contract law (with specifics on reservations, overbooking, conventions, catering, banquets, et al). Negligence is covered, as well as liability and risk in the hospitality industry. There’s a lot about private areas and public areas (plus rights of guests) in the accommodation sector. Restaurants and food, bars and beverages, and human resources complete the package. Travel agents have their own chapter. “Discussion questions” for a hospitality school program in law are preceded by good sharp summaries. Cases are cited as examples, statute tables are listed and indexed, there are sample forms and contracts, and a glossary. But all of the books cited in the bibliography are from the last century (one is a revision in 2005 from the same publisher as Longchamps). With the book comes free InfoTrac database searching for four months. The great thing about this book is that it is all Canadian, which puts it at the head of the line. Quality/Price rating: 87. 23. SALES AND SERVICE FOR THE WINE PROFESSIONAL. 3rd edition (Thomson, 2008, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-84480-789-5, $49.99 US paper covers) is by Brian K. Julyan, Senior Lecturer in Hospitality Management at the University of Plymouth. As well, he is Chief Executive and Chief Examiner of the Court of Master Sommeliers. This book is a one-stop resource for all involved with alcoholic beverages in the hospitality industry. It is a useful instruction manual for colleges and sommelier programs in that there is a considerable amount of material dealing with self-assessment. Newer materials cover wine regions that are becoming acceptable, and a certain internationalization of the material as the book arrives in North America (it was first published in 1999). For the professional, although those who seek alcohol knowledge may also find it useful. There is a short chapter on spirits and beers, as well as serving beverages and tobacco. Health and safety are important here. So are creating sales. Quality Price rating: 89. 24. THE RIVER COTTAGE COOKBOOK (Ten Speed Press, 2001, 2008, 447 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-909-8, $35US hard covers) is by Hugh Fearnley- Whittingstall, a British food personality (broadcaster, writer, farmer, educator, campaigner for real food). His River Cottage farm is in Devon. The original of this book sold 300,000 copies in Europe. Here, it has been (according to the PR) “thoroughly Americanized” – Good Gawd NO...for a North American audience. Other bumpf says “tailored for American cooks”. That means that recipes and cooking instructions have been modified, with familiar ingredients, terminology and measurements. Major changes are in labeling requirements, the use of the words “organic”, “free range” and the like. There are four pages of endnotes. The bibliography remains British. There’s no real need to buy this book if you have the original; all the changes relate to the American market. The contents remain: food from the garden, butchering local animals, foraging, opinions on the local environment, and resourceful use of plants and animals. Quality/Price rating: 90. 25. ALTON BROWN’S GEAR FOR YOUR KITCHEN (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2003, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-696-1, $17.95 US paper covers) is by the well-known host and commentator for shows on the Food Network. It was originally published in 2003 as a hard cover. Here there has been some updating, especially with the retail listings and websites. Melitta in Toronto appears to be the only Canadian outfit. His book concerns advice on what to have and what to have not in the kitchen. For example, you only need three knives and you don’t need a countertop grill. He writes in a humourous guy-talk kidding style, which is how macho men try to learn things. Thus, there are categories such as Small Things with Plugs, Kitchen Tools Unplugged, Sharp Things, allusions to hardware and tool kits, even some handwritten notes. Great stuff for the guy chef. Quality/Price rating: 89. 26. PROFESSIONAL BAKING; fifth edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2008, 800 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-31652-8, $99.99 hard covers) is by Wayne Gisslen, and features recipes from Le Cordon Bleu (Paris). It comes with a CD- ROM with about 900 recipes (all the preps from the book, with options to modify and resize – and you can also add your own), and a Student Workbook, an Instructor’s Guide and Manual and CD-ROM (available separately). There are also method cards with step-by-step directions for common methods of yeast doughs, cakes, muffins. What’s new this time out is more material on artisan breads (natural fermentation, hand crafting); a new chapter on baking for special diets, including low- fat, low-sugar, gluten-free, and dairy-free diets; new photographs; and a new redesign to enhance the layout. There is a recipe contents page which explores yeast doughs, quick breads, doughnuts and crepes, syrups, pies, tarts, cakes, decorating, cookies, custards, frozen desserts, fruits, chocolate and marzipan. Everything here in this book is clear, precise, no-nonsense, practical and methodical. Both US volume and metric measurements are given in side-by-side columns. Cooking schools, restaurants, hotels, and large hospitality establishments will appreciate the book since it is a major textbook. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 27. SLURP; drinks and light fare, all day, all night (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 170 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407- 6990-0, $16.99 US soft covers) is by Nina Dreyer Hensley, Jim Hensley, and Paul Lowe. It was first published in Norway in 2005. Here are more than 100 recipes for both drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic, including smoothies) and food for tasty pairings. Plus a few hangover remedies. The book also has entertaining and party ideas; the arrangement is by time of day (morning, daytime, evening). Lots of advice strewn about, and there is a useful index. Quality/Price rating: 85. 28. RICK STEIN’S COMPLETE SEAFOOD (Ten Speed Press, 2004, 2008, 264 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-914-2, $31.95 Canadian soft covers) is by the owner of the Seafood Restaurant (England), and an impressive authority on seafood in general. He has authored other seafood books, and has hosted some television cooking shows. This book grew out of his Cornwall cooking school, and attempts to be definitive. It was originally issued in 2004, and subsequently won a James Beard Cookbook of the Year Award. Although there is a copyright date of 2008, there seems to be some minimal updating. Here are 150 recipes with 550 instructional photographs and illustrations, along with extensive charts and colour IDs for the seafood. Part one covers techniques (with demos) such as a step-by-step guide to scaling, to gutting, to skinning, to pan frying, to filleting, to baking a fish in a salt or pastry casing (plus foil and en papillote), to hot smoking, to steaming, to stuffing. Part two details the recipes, which are mainly classics, distributed according to type of seafood (large fish, small fish, crustaceans, mollusks), and part three is the reference section with information about the fish, the equipment needed, and the pantry ingredients required. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 29. SIMPLY BISHOP’S; easy seasonal recipes (Douglas & McIntyre, 2002, 2008, 170 pages, ISBN 978-1-55363-388-2, $24.95 Canadian softy covers) is a straight reissue of the 2002 hard cover book. John Bishop of Bishop’s Restaurant in Vancouver (opened in 1985) had crafted a book based on menus of food served at his resto. The dishes are straightforward, with an emphasis on local and seasonal food. 100 plus recipes are organized by course and then by season within. There are entertaining ideas, menus (such as Thanksgiving, BBQ, spring brunch), suggested accompanying dishes, and wine recommendations where appropriate. Weights and measures are in both avoirdupois and metric forms. Preps include bet salad with raspberry vinaigrette, slow-cooked pork shoulder with pan-roasted vegetables, and gooseberry and almond crumble. Quality/Price rating: 88. ---------------------------------------------------- AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR APRIL 2008 ============================================================ By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. MARAN ILLUSTRATED WINE (MaranGraphics/Thomson Course Technology, 2006, 281 pages, ISBN 978-1-59863-318-4, $24.99US soft covers) has been assembled by the MaranGraphics team. They began with a successful graphic series of computer books; I used them in 1990 to learn about DOS. Now they have been branching out to include other consumer interests such as “Bartending” and “Wine”. Maran produces graphic books, with layout, presentation and photos and all kinds of illustrations. The text and wine consultation came from Tonia Wilson, well-known Canadian sommelier and chef, who has appeared in print and broadcast, and now has a catering/consulting company at www.savourflavour.com. This book was quietly released under the radar, and just now has come to my attention. The full colour book is printed on quality paper, and comes with a flexible binding. The introduction includes chapters on the basics, how wine is made, tasting, buying, serving, collecting, storing, and matching with food. Then begins the regional analysis through Europe, the New World, sparklers and fortified wines. There are several good sections here, including how to taste wine and how to serve wine. Matching food to wine (and vice versa) is also a specialty of Wilson. The book includes an excellent chapter on self-education, such as wine tasting groups (joining or forming), winery visits and wine tourism, and the importance of winemaker dinners. Her book concludes with a glossary, Audience and level of use: beginner level. The downside to this book: a bit pedantic for the wine connoisseur. The upside to this book: lots of pictures. Quality/Price Rating: 88. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. BEYOND THE GREAT WALL; recipes and travels in the other China (Random House Canada, 2008, 376 pages, ISBN 978-0-679-31466-6, $70 CAD hard covers) is by the team of Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, who have authored many cookbooks (which double as travel books) about the Far East: “Mangoes and Curry Leaves” (IACP Best International Cookbook winner), “Hot Sour Salty Sweet”, “Seductions of Rice”. Plus two books on bread and home baking. But it is hard to believe that, given their elevated status as cookbook authors, they still need log rolling endorsements from John Thorne (who seems to do nothing else but these days) and Claudia Roden. Anyway, the book is out in time to cash in on the Chinese popularity of the Beijing Olympics. And, of course, the book includes Tibet, which at this writing is a contentious issue. Other areas are Inner Mongolia, Guizhou and Yunnan, and parts of the Silk Road. The book weighs in at 4.7 pounds, a hefty disadvantage for the kitchen. My usual advice still stands: for recipes, make a fair use photocopy to absorb the usual splattering and for ease of handling in the kitchen. As with their other books, here is a mixture of stunning photographs, compelling stories and history, and plenty of home cooking. We’ve seen most of the recipes before in other cookbooks, for these are classic peasant dishes that can be found in Tibetan, et al, recipe books. The value is in the culturally distinct regions’ approach to food. The authors have been in the region many times over the past 25 years (they met there). Sources include families, street vendors, local markets, and small restaurants: shaping noodles, making soups, stir-fries, kebabs, teas, and flour and a few rice-derived desserts. Photos are keyed to recipe pages. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used for the ingredients, but there are conversion tables for American/Imperial/Metric forms. There is a glossary, a bibliography, and sources in North America for food and equipment. Audience and level of use: arm chair travelers, dedicated cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grasslands herb salsa; Tibetan tsampa soup; tomato-lamb noodle soup; beef-sauced hot lettuce salad; ginger and carrot stir fry; ear lobe noodles; lhasa beef and potato stew. The downside to this book: lovely to look at, but unwieldy to use. The upside to this book: a bright, well-defined travel book. Quality/Price Rating: 88. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. THE NEW STEAK; recipes for a range of cuts plus savory sides (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-890-9, $19.95US paper covers) is by Cree LeFlavour, whose father was a professional chef. She eventually ran her own baking business, but now writes about food. Heavy log rollers include Bruce Aidells (Complete Meat Cookbook) and Cindy Pawlcyn (chef/owner Mustards Grill). There are 55 steak recipes here, mostly contemporary and reflecting North American styles, bistro, Latin, and SEA), along with 90 sides (most appear with the relevant steak recipe). She has basic data on buying and cooking steak (sautéing, roasting, broiling, grilling, braising, and wok-frying), with an overview of the cuts and portion controls. Pan frying seems to be the most popular way. Her pantry section, for some reason, also includes three types of beef which needs to be purchased fresh of course. The inexpensive cuts (skirt steak, hangar steak) are adaptable to Latin and SEA influences. Audience and level of use: steak lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for steak, there is T-Bone, strip, filet, rib, Porterhouse, and burgers. For bistro food, there is strip, skirt, steak au poivre, steak Florentine, filet béarnaise, and tartare. Latin has rib, flank, skirt, and hangar. SEA is mostly thinly sliced cheaper cuts such as flank. The downside to this book: no carpetbagger steak, which appears to be coming back. Also, surprisingly, there are no wine notes! The upside to this book: there are tips and advice on building menus. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 4. THE TASTE OF SWEET; our complicated love affair with our favorite treats (Crown, 2008, 264 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35190-6, $24.95US hard covers) is by Joyce Chen, a New York editor and writer. She also has a website www.thetasteofsweet.com. Notable log rollers include Molly O’Neill and pastry chef Francois Payard. This book is part memoir and part exposition. It is a historical, scientific, and socioeconomic narrative of the concept of “sweet”. Into the mix goes childhood memories and manipulative marketing. You know nothing good can come out of it, since sugar is addictive and artificial sweeteners are toxic. She shows the evolution of sweeteners, such as organic honey, aspartame, and the demon HFCS (high fructose corn syrup). She considers the role of the brain (which feeds exclusively on glucose), studies of taste buds and the concept of supertasters with their burning mouth syndrome, and links to obesity. Other topics: ice cream as a luxury, breeding sweetness into plants (e.g., strawberry), how chocolate became sweetened, the role of sugar in Imperial China, and North American pioneers’ pies. There are extensive end notes but no bibliography. Audience and level of use: food readers, schools of hospitality. The downside to this book: still needs be focused more. The upside to this book: there is an index, and large print for tired eyes. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. BON APPETIT, Y’ALL; recipes and stories from three generations of southern cooking (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 312 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008- 853-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Virginia Willis, a former TV producer of “Martha Stewart Living” and “Epicurius”. She now lives and writes in Atlanta. Notable log rollers include Alton Brown and Anne Willan (Willis had attended La Varenne). The 200 recipes are designed to use French techniques (=elegant mode); she has refined down home cooking to haute cuisine. Is this making silk out of a sow’s ear? For breadcrumbs, we now need to use panko. Unsalted butter is used, and for pulled pork, we’ll need pork tenderloin. Lard? Forget it…The full range of courses include updated classics. The general foods include beans, breads, chickens, cheddar cheese, corn, crab, ham, pork, potatoes, pecans, shrimp, sausage and tomatoes. There is some of her family’s history, tips, techniques, and cook’s notes, along with photos of techniques. Avoirdupois weights and measures arte used in the ingredients. Sources and resources are all U.S. Audience and level of use: for those cooks wishing to take a stab at it. Perhaps they could merge low-cal Southern with haute-cuisine Southern for a sort of “cuisine minceur”… Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sausage-pecan balls; Vidalia onion confit with garlic toasts; Belgian endive with shrimp salad; fried pork chops with pan gravy; corn spoon bread; blackberry cobbler; baked pecan and acorn squash. The downside to this book: no metric conversion charts. The upside to this book: she uses no additional sugar in her corn breads and muffins. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 6. THE BEST BARBECUE ON EARTH; grilling across 6 continents and 25 countries, with 170 recipes (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 254 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-875-6, $24.95US paper covers) is by Rick Browne, from PBS’ “Barbecue America”. This is his fifth BBQ and grilling book. Here he adapts some of the best outdoor cooking recipes for American grills, and gives us stories behind the BBQs. This includes the Argentinean asado, the South African braai, the Korean bulgogi, plus Japan, Brazil, Spain, Mexico, and others. Even Canada gets included (grilled venison loin, salmon, game birds). He has the usual tips, techniques, and cook’s notes. Desserts are included. Avoirdupois weights and measurements are used. Audience and level of use: BBQ fanatics. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Irish smoked salmon; Turkish stuffed grilled eggplant; Portuguese grilled sardines; beef empanadas; cheesy grilled veggies; grilled gingerbread apples. The downside to this book: there are no metric conversion tables. The upside to this book: lots of useful photos. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 7. ARTHUR SCHWARTZ’S JEWISH HOME COOKING; Yiddish recipes revisited (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 270 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-898-5, $35US hard covers) is by the eponymous food writer, editor, and cooking teacher. Yet heavy duty log rollers such as Joyce Goldstein, Barbara Kafka, and Rozanne Gold have been summoned. He won an IACP Award in 2005 for his book on New York food (just re-released in paperback). In 100 recipes, Schwartz gives us a culinary history of NYC Jewish culture. He has classics and updated versions of traditional Ashkenazi foods. The chapters cover soup to nuts, with dairy, Passover meals, breads, and desserts – all along with details about the NYC food scene. All of the recipes have been reviewed by an expert in Jewish dietary laws, so the book’s recipes can be pareve, kosher, and Passover as indicated. There is a glossary of Yiddish food terms. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used for ingredients. For more, check his website www.foodmaven.com Audience and level of use: Jewish food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: rugulach; matzoh brei; challah; brisket; kreplach; gefilte fish; Passover walnut cake; Mandelbrot; Lindy’s cheesecake; sweet and sour beef cheeks. The downside to this book: no table of metric equivalents. The upside to this book: good pix of techniques. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 8. WINE BAR FOOD; Mediterranean flavors to crave with wines to match (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 198 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35279-8, $27.50 US hard covers) is by Cathy Mantuano and Tony Mantuano (of Chicago’s Spiaggia restaurant). They are opening Enoteca Spiaggia, a wine bar in Miami’s South Beach later in 2008. This is their second cookbook, and it comes with log rolling from Iron Chefs Mario Batali and Bobby Flay. It is mainly tapas-derived from European Mediterranean. The food service is both party and sit down. They have suggestions for complementary (and affordable) regional wines and wine cocktails. The 100 recipes have “ease and flavour preferred over authenticity” (PR says). It has been organized by country and then by city. There are five Italy Venice, Rome, Naples, Milan, Florence), two Spain (Barcelona, Seville), plus Nice, Lisbon, and Athens. There are side chapters on cured meats, cheeses, and pantry foods (olives, beans, capers, canned dolmas, dried tomatoes, et al). The wine recommendations are for regions, styles and grapes, and not specific labels. There are thankfully no California knockoffs…Weights and measures are avoirdupois and the resource guide is all US (mostly Illinois, where the couple lives). Audience and level of use: tapas lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lemony shrimps with currants and pine nuts (Venice); marinated pork or lamb sandwiches (Athens); Portuguese seafood stew; raw winter veggies salad with anchovy sauce (Nice); charred baby leeks with Romesco sauce (Barcelona); yellowtail carpaccio with citrus and fennel (Rome). The downside to this book: there are no metric conversion charts. The upside to this book: an interesting spin on the small plate phenomenon. There is an index to both the wines and the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 9. WISCONSIN CHEESE; a cookbook and guide to the cheese of Wisconsin (ThreeForks, 2008; dist. Canadian Manda, 260 pages, ISBN 978-0-7627- 4489-3, $16.95US soft covers) is by Martin Hintz and Pam Percy, Milwaukee food writers who also raise Saanen dairy goats. This book is mainly of interest to US readers since we in Canada cannot get these cheeses due to the quota system; the state produces some 600 varieties, types and styles. But it is a good guide to knock offs which can be found in Canada (gruyere, Muenster, asiago, mozzarella, etc.). There are 100 recipes, from cheesemakers and chefs in Wisconsin. The state has some 250 certified organic dairy farms out of 19,000 total, and there is preferential treatment for all the farms by the state government. Most cheese here comes from pasteurized cow’s milk, about two billion pounds a year. And a lot of it win national and international cheese awards. Chapter One deals with artisanal cheeses, followed by styles of cheddar, Colby, swiss, blue and gorgonzola, Italian cheeses, French cheeses, and Hispanic cheeses. There are profiles of the leading companies, both large and small. Thirty pages are devoted to goat and sheep cheeses. More details are at www.wisdairy.com, the cheese website for the state. Audience and level of use: caseophiles. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grilled cheese sandwich with jack and smoked Gouda; gorgonzola and pear pasta; cheddar crusted pork tenderloin; cheese grits; swiss rarebit; blue crab quiche; black bean and goat cheese tortas. The downside to this book: a little cagey about thermalization, which is not mentioned anywhere. The upside to this book: there is a bibliography and multiple indexes to both recipes and subject matter. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 10. HEAVENLY FRAGRANCE; cooking with aromatic Asian herbs, fruits, spices and seasonings (Periplus Editions, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978- 907946-0353-3, $39.95US hard covers) is by Carol Selva Rajah, chef and food writer (and cookbook author) specializing in SEA food. She currently lives in Sydney, Australia. About 90% of what we taste comes from smell tones; the 150 recipes here emphasize “aromas”. Chapters are arranged by products. There is one on Asian herbs of basils, coriander leaves, curry leaves, garlic chives, lemongrass); another on Asian fruit (limes, coconuts, mangoes, pomelos, tamarind). There’s a third on Asian spices of cardamom, ginger, cumin, fennel, turmeric, star anise, followed by a fourth on “seasonings” such as fermented pastes, fish sauces, mirin, rice wines, and sesame oil. Each recipe has the prep time, the cooking time, cook’s notes, and both avoirdupois and metric measurements. There is a small bibliography. Unfortunately, while there is an index by course, there is no ingredient index. Audience and level of use: SEA food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grilled quail with lemongrass and coconut; cabbage sautéed with black mustard seeds; watermelon rind salad with sweet Thai dressing; poached chicken breasts with Sichuan pepper oil; Chinese rice congee with garnishes. The downside to this book: there is ingredient index. The book is too heavy for the kitchen, being almost four pounds. The upside to this book: good book concept. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 11. SMALL PARTIES; more than 100 recipes for intimate gatherings (Gibbs Smith, 2008, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0246-0, $19.95US paper covers) is by Marguerite Marceau Henderson, a multi-media food writer, owner, chef, cooking school teacher, and more. The range here is from 2 to 12, for celebrations and holidays, including breakfasts. Some topics: bridal events, Thanksgiving dinner, Sunday dinner, BBQ, and New Year’s Day buffet. She has both guidelines and prep timelines for all types and manner of entertaining, along with notes con presentations, garnishes and décor. Each of the 22 situations is for a certain number of people, but they can be cut down or expanded with some thought. Avoirdupois weights and measures are used in the recipes. Audience and level of use: those needing advice on party-giving. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Labour Day Patio Fete for Ten – shrimp and artichoke pasta salad; 3 bean and 3 pepper salad; grilled halibut; grilled tri-top roast; rhubarb and strawberry crisp. The downside to this book: amazingly, there are no beverage or wine notes! The upside to this book: there are some interesting ideas here. Metric conversion charts are included. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 12. ROSALIND CREASY’S RECIPES FROM THE GARDEN (Tuttle Publishing, 2008, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-8048-3768-2, $34.95US hard covers) has been written by a landscape designer and a prime leader of the edible landscaping movement (her “Complete Book of Edible Landscaping” has won major awards). She is also a magazine writer in this subject, and for this book, she also took all the pictures. There is material here on planting the back yard AND the front yard gardens; you’ll eat your own extremely local produce (extralocavore?). But then, you could also extend the theory to local farmers’ markets. The basics here, as we’ve heard and read ad nauseum so many times before, is to eat only seasonally, locally, and organic. In other words, S-L-O food. Sounds familiar? She has large sections on herb blends and salad dressings, all of which can be used with soups, salads, veggie dishes, and meat dishes c(only 24 pages). Sides, drinks, and desserts are also among the 200 recipes here. Types of preps include classics, complicated, edible flowers, “gifts from the garden” (i.e. preserved), plus easy and quick. Avoirdupois and metric measurements are given, and there are two indexes: one by produce, and one by recipe. Audience and level of use: gardeners, s-l-o people. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: carrot pie; corn pudding; chive blossom butter; rosemary pesto; tortilla soup; pork shoulder sandwiches with tomatillos. The downside to this book: I think we need a warmer climate than Canada for this book to succeed. Try California. The upside to this book: she took great photos Quality/Price Rating: 86. 13. ABOUT WINE (Thomson Delmar Learning, 2007, 562 pages, ISBN 978-1- 4018-3711-2, $63.95US hard covers) is by J. Patrick Henderson, a winemaking instructor at Santa Rosa Junior College in California (and senior winemaker at Kenwood Vineyards) and by Dellie Rex, an instructor at the New England Culinary Institute. It’s in one of the new “About…” series from Thomson, and is meant for the hospitality trade since it concentrates on the business of wine. The publisher also has an instructor package consisting of a manual, CD, and tests. The intro matter moves through the fundamentals of wine and grapes, winemaking, tasting, and evaluation. The business part of it comes next, with large sections on the selling and serving of wine, the managing of a wine list, and purchasing and cellaring wine. Along the way the authors discuss sommeliers, profit managers, marketing, staff training, unique selling points (USPs), pricing, by the glass programs, house wines, and markups. The attitude is all pro-business, especially since house wines are touted as great moneymakers – without regard to quality. Most consumer books say to avoid house wines because of the lack of quality and excessive profit margin. House wines are different in European restaurants. Each chapter has the educational objectives of learning, the key terms expressed, review questions, and summaries. There are good pictures of wine labels, technical processes, maps and diagrams. In the appendices, the reference sections cover classification, wine laws, and wine associations. Audience and level of use: schools of hospitality, interested wine consumers. Some interesting or unusual facts: the section on Canadian wines has no detail on PEC as a DVA, or on the sub-appellations in Niagara, suggesting that the material was written before 2006. The downside to this book: nothing on winery tasting room management. The upside to this book: unintentionally, the consumer gets the lowdown on the restaurant business of wine. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 14. SMALL PLATES PERFECT WINES; creating little dishes with big flavors (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda, 146 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-6913-9, $16.95 US soft carvers) is by Lori Lyn Narlock, a food and travel writer with 10 cookbooks under her belt. She only has 50 recipes here, but she makes each one of them count. Wine pairings are from the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center, but there are no wine labels or other special promotions for their wines. Her topics range through salads, veggies, meat, seafood, and desserts. But because they are “small” as in meze, tapas, and the like, every meal needs to have about 5 – 6 courses. That will mean a lot of plates and separate preps. She has sample party menus for backyard cookouts, autumn harvests, other seasonal occasions, with timelines for preparations. Each menu item has page references to the recipe. She outlines prep plans, presentation ideas, and sample table settings. And of course some advice on buying and serving wine. There are excellent photos here. All of the ingredients’ weights and measures are in avoirdupois, but there are conversion tables to metric. Audience and level of use: party givers, California fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted cauliflower with braised radicchio; roasted Brussels sprouts with chorizo; summer squash cupcakes with lemon glaze; pork saltimbocca; capellini with clams; braised chicken with Swiss chard. The downside to this book: too short, could use more recipes (increase the price of course) The upside to this book: index includes grape varieties with pages indicated for the food recipe matching. Quality/Price Rating: 88. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 15. SIMPLY DELICIOSO; a collection of everyday recipes with a Latin twist (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-34734-3, $32.50US hard covers) is by Food Network star Ingrid Hoffmann, who once owned a resto and catering firm. The book is named after her TV series. She’s also got a cooking show on Spanish TV as well, and writes a monthly cooking feature for Buen Hogar magazine (Good Housekeeping). This is a modern take on classic Latin food, emphasizing bright bold new flavours. And, of course, you’ll need a pantry (as she explains it all). The 125 recipes include her take on mole, adobo, sofrito, homey changua, eggs benedict with chipotle hollandaise, avocado and arugula salad, chipotle and black-eyed pea soup, Cuban burgers, rancheros, and many meats. The whole book is bright and tries to be sexy (“carne knowledge”? “pillow talk”? personal life?). She’s the leading candidate for hot kitchen babe of the year... US measurements are employed, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 84. 16. DOLCE ITALIANO; desserts from the Babbo kitchen (W.W. Norton, 2007, 302 pages, ISBN 978-0-393-06100-0, $35 US hard covers) is by Gina DePalma, who has worked for Mario Batali at Babbo as his pastry chef since 1998. It comes endorsed with 9 log rollers, including Bourdain, De Laurentiis, Bastianich, and Lynne Rossetto Kasper. And a foreword by Mario himself. She works from an Italian background, and like the resto, everything is simple and fresh in season. There are wine pairings that often accompany the recipes, and she lists ten essential ingredients for making Italian desserts. These are ricotta, mascarpone, honey, EVOO, lemons (and/or oranges), polenta, nuts, amaretti biscuits, grappa, and sweet wines. She covers biscotti, cakes, spoon desserts, tarts, gelati and variations, tutti fritti (fried), and fruit. There are plenty of cook’s notes and advisements. Some preps include honey clouds, yogurt cheesecake, mocha-cinnamon boney, chocolate and polenta tart, cassata alla siciliana, lemon ricotta fritters, and pannacotta with vincotta. First rate job. Quality/Price rating: 90. 17. THE SPLENDID TABLE’S HOW TO EAT SUPPER; recipes, stories, and opinions from Public Radio’s award-winning food show (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 338 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-34671-1, $35US hard covers) is by Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Sally Swift. Kasper is host and major writer for “The Splendid Table”, a national US food radio show produced by American Public Media. It has been running for more than 20 years, and has garnered a James Beard award. Swift is co-creator and managing producer of that show. Rossetto also writes the syndicated column “Ask the Splendid Table”, read in over 400 newspapers. Her first book “The Splendid Table” won both a Beard and an IACP award for “Book of the Year”. Here, the team grapples with weeknight dinners and timelines for the busy home cook. There are more than 100 recipes, with menus listed on the end pages (a distinctive innovation: thank you!!) – and the menus have page references to the recipes. The authors attempt to deconstruct recipes to their simple forms, and then create new ones quickly. The taste emphasis is on “savoury” and “international flavours”. Like the show itself (which you can hear via the Internet or on NPR if you are near the US Border) the book contains trivia, nutrition, advice, culinary bits of fun facts, and the like. There are multiple larger type fonts and use of bold typefaces and colour in the recipes. Most of the preps come from the show and her columns, but there are a few others written – and credited – to additional food writers. Arrangement is by course progression, and the only major disappointment is that while US weights and measures are used, there are NO tables of equivalencies. Try Dressing-in-a-bowl supper salad (which calls for improvising), Tortilla eggs with avocado and lime, Chinese noodles with four flavors, Sweet yams in ginger-stick curry, and Farmhouse panna cotta. Quality/Price rating: 90. 18. FEASTING ON ASPHALT; the river run (Stewart, Chang & Tabori, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda, 207 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-681-7, $27.50 hard covers) is by Alton Brown, a writer-director-host for the Food Network. Catch him on “Good Eats” (which won a Peabody in 2007) and “Iron Chef America”. He also writes cookbooks (“I’m Just Here for the Food” won a Beard in 2004). This celebrity cook motorbikes its way through the Mississippi, beginning on the Gulf of Mexico and ending up near the headwaters in Minnesota. He tries to get the best roadside food, and to tell the stories about the people who prepare and serve it. This book is a companion to the six-part series which aired in fall 2007. His itinerary is listed, so you too can stay where he stayed, eat where he ate, and talk to the same people. He did it in 26 days or so, and he provides pages of road tips. All 41 recipes are sourced as to the diner/restaurant. Try BBQ pork ribs, bread pudding, head cheese, Cherry Joe, fried morels. General index and recipe index are both folded in together. There is also a road map poster. But there are too many pix of Brown. Quality/Price rating: 86. ---------------------------------------------------- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR MARCH 2008 =========================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. ICEWINE; extreme winemaking (Key Porter Books, 2007, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-55263-926-9, $50 CDN hard covers) is mainly by Donald Ziraldo, who, with winemaker Karl Kaiser, founded Inniskillin Wines in 1974. It was the first small and new winery in Ontario since 1929. There’s a foreword from Hugh Johnson, an icewine flavour wheel from Shari Darling, some notes from John Schreiner’s book on Icewine, scientific notes from Karl Kaiser, and recipes from the late Izabela Kalabis-Sacco pulled together by Lyn Ogryzlo. The promotion bumpf says, “A gorgeous collection, with full-colour photography and delicious recipes that explains the art behind Canada’s wine delicacy”. They forgot to include that the book also contains a big whack of scientific and technical data, with copious charts, graphs, and tables, compiled for the most part by Kaiser. He has all the figures for the history of Inniskillin icewine, including – on a year by year basis -- harvest brix, harvest temperatures, acid levels, ABV, residual sugars, all from 1983 through 2006 (the latter was harvested in January 2007). In addition, there are figures for all of BC, all Ontario productions, Germany and Austria. Icewine made in other locations, such as New Zealand or New York, are cryogenic extractions (wines from the freezer). The book is very detailed with maps and photos, discussing the effects of terroir, grape varieties, pressing techniques, cork quality. There’s a discussion of VQA and the new sub-appellations in Niagara. Ziraldo has material on how to properly appreciate and taste Icewine, using Riedal glasses which he had helped to create. There are cocktail recipes, and 20 food recipes using icewine or accompanying icewine, using both avoirdupois and metric measurements for the ingredients. Audience and level of use: lovers of icewine. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: foie gras with Granny Smith apples; seared foie gras with icewine-soaked apricots; grilled fig salad with gorgonzola; truffled cream of cauliflower soup; leg of lamb with fig compote. The downside to this book: there’s a suggestion of a gift book here, but no matter. The upside to this book: there’s a separate index for the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 89. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. 101 FOODS THAT COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE (Bantam, 2008, 437 pages, ISBN 978-0-553-38432-1, $14US paper covers) is by David Grotto, RD, LDN, a nutritionist consultant. It comes endorsed by the Nutrition Director of Prevention magazine and author Dr. Brian Wansink (Mindless Eating). Last year, there was a book published which covered 150 foods. Actually, an in depth survey examined some 360 different foods, and ranked them all on a naturally nutrient-rich score. We don’t know what these other 259 are because Grotto does not list them. But he does some rejigging to include phytochemicals and the like, plus ease of availability. So he attempts to clarify and classify some 101 foods (more details are at www.101foodsthatcouldsaveyourlife.com). This is an alphabetically arranged reference book, from “acai berries” (an anti- oxidant from Brazil) to “yogurt”. Each entry describes the food’s origins and users, home remedies. Therapeutic benefits are also described, along with the relevant research to support those claims in the appropriate end notes. Cancer inhibition is covered, use and prep of the food, plus a recipe. Thus “acai” increases sexual performance and beauty, inhibits cancer, and is useful served with breakfast or dessert. If you use it served over yogurt, then you’ll also get the benefits attributed to yogurt: inhibiting both arthritis and colon cancer, improving cholesterol ratios and gut health. The appendices include some 2,000 calorie meal plans, a list of benefits of phytochemicals and nutrients, recipe credits, end notes, and references to websites. Audience and level of use: people concerned about what they eat. Some interesting or unusual facts: Teff is a grain from Ethiopia. The word means “lost” (if you drop it you won’t find it). It is the smallest grain the world, being 1/32 of an inch (0.8 mm) in diameter. The downside to this book: no illustrations, but then that keeps the price down. The upside to this book: extensive index by food and health condition (e.g., IBS, hypertension, larynx cancer). Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS 3. THE HOUSEWIFE’S HANDBOOK; how to run the modern home (Bloomsbury, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7475-7750-8, $39.95 hard covers) is by Rachel Simhon, a journalist who wrote a housekeeping column for the Daily Telegraph. The book has a definite British orientation, but that also means a British sensibility. Part One deals with the house on a room-by-room analysis. The material covers cleaning, organizing, and storing – all in 200 pages. The other 100 pages are in Part Two, on the techniques of cleaning and scheduling. Tips are strewn throughout, such as descaling a tea kettle and how to deal with a lumpy mattress. All of these are included in the very thorough index. The appendix of some 40 pages covers the issues of stains, household pests, and pets. Audience and level of use: cleaning advice. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Cats like sleeping on fax machines because they are warm. They shed fur and dust all over the machine”. Keeps cats out of the home office. The downside to this book: names and addresses of sources are all UK. The upside to this book: sans serif typeface is very easy on the eyes. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. THE REAL TASTE OF SPAIN (Pavilion, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-86205-738-8, $45 Canadian hard covers) is by Jenny Chandler, a British food writer specializing in Spain. In 2005 she wrote “The Food of Northern Spain”. Here she concentrates on recipes inspired by the markets of Spain, the “mercados”. She begins with the largest daily market, the Boqueria in Barcelona, and others such as in Madrid, Andalucia, Galicia, and Valencia. There are eight other mercados mentioned, but these are all weekly markets. She has 80 recipes for seasonal and local foods, plus a whole slew of touristy photos of the markets. She discusses the needs of the Spanish pantry (olives, hams, pulses, nuts, peppers, garlic, and rice). The arrangement of the book is by course, and includes shellfish, fish, charcuterie, meat, game, poultry, pulses and rice, eggs and dairy, veggies, and fruit. The ingredients are listed in both metric and avoirdupois formats. And there are lots of cook’s notes. Audience and level of use: intermediate, lovers of Spanish food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: quince paste; fig and sherry gratin; avocado and quail egg salad; red pepper soup; basque red bean stew; chicken with olives. The downside to this book: too many touristy pix. The upside to this book: variations are given within the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 5. THE ASIAN KITCHEN (Periplus Editions, 2007; distr. Ten Speed Press, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0498-1, $24.95US hard covers) has been compiled by Kong Foong Ling, a food writer and editor specializing in Asian cuisine. These 300 preps come from Asian chefs working in twelve countries from Singapore to Sri Lanka, and including Burma and the Philippines. Thus, there are Vietnamese soups and pho, Thai salads, Indian curries, Japanese sushi, Chinese noodles, Malaysian sambals, and Indonesian satays. Each country’s survey begins with a brief culinary history, followed by suggested menus (with page references), and then recipes arranged by course (starters, soups, salads, seafood, meat, desserts). There are three to six preps per page. At the beginning Ling covers the basics of the Asian kitchen and extensive pantry ingredients. When you deal with 12 countries, you’ll need a large larder. Ingredient measurements are in both metric and avoirdupois, but there are still conversion charts. He has an index by the country’s food and by the major ingredient (e.g., there are 23 pork recipes). Audience and level of use: beginner, comprehensive survey of Asia. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef smore; fish lemon stew; coconut gravy; crab curry; green mango curry; bananas in sweet coconut milk. The downside to this book: the inevitable tourist pix take away space from the cooking material. The upside to this book: concise overview. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 6. THE WARMEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE; how the kitchen became the heart of the twentieth-century American home (Bloomsbury, 2008, 238 pages, ISBN 978-1-58234-355-6, $24.95US hard covers) is by Steve Gdula, a magazine writer. It is a survey book, as told from the US perspective, of life in the kitchen during the twentieth century. He traces its evolution from the backroom where housework was done to its current centre of family life and entertainment. He cleverly shows how the kitchen became the focal point, incorporating the dining room. The book is arranged by decade, 1900 – 1999 plus a short epilogue for the past few years. He manages to list food trends, food technology, kitchen design, appliances and furniture, china and flatware, cookbooks and food literature. But really, it all boils down to convenience foods (frozen, pre-packaged, and takeout/delivery) and new appliances. Along the way he fills the pages with bits of trivia to illustrate his points; there are no pictorial illustrations here. There is an annotated bibliography of books, as well as a listing of periodicals, government papers and seminar presentations. As Gdula says, “This is by no means a definitive history of the American Kitchen of the twentieth century, but rather a selection and examination of some of its influences and representations during that time.” But it is easy going and well-written. Audience and level of use: curious foodies. Some interesting or unusual facts: Pesto was on everybody’s mind in the late 1980s. The downside to this book: specific to US, no mention of international influences such as the Slow Food movement or of Alice Waters and the school lunch movement. The upside to this book: broad sweep of US history. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 7. WHISKEY & SPIRITS FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2008, 335 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-11769-9, $19.99US paper covers) is by Perry Luntz, senior editor at Beverage Media. It is a basic guide to a resurging drink category, principally “brown spirits” (i.e., whiskeys, dark rums, brandies) although, of course, clear spirits are also covered (gin, vodka, tequila, grappa, white rum). The arrangement begins with the brown, going into the lore and description of Irish, Scotch, Bourbon, Tennessee, Canadian, and the rest of the world. There’s a lot of Canadian content, mainly on rye. Other material includes advice on how best to enjoy spirits, their health benefits and nutritional values. The negative side of consumption is not covered. Audience and level of use: beginners, curious drinkers. Some interesting or unusual facts: John Molson did beers, and whiskey distillation. As well, he contributed to the building of the railroads, sat in the legislature, and was a general all-round financier and philanthropist. The downside to this book: Joni Mitchell is cited as a wannabe Canadian, but she was born in Alberta. The upside to this book: there are food pairing notes for the brown spirits. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. TIME TO EAT (Michael Joseph/Penguin, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0- 718-15314-4, $45 CDN hard covers) is by Gary Rhodes, UK author of seventeen cookbooks. He also owns restaurants in 5 countries and appears on British television regularly. The 120 recipes take 10 minutes to two hours to prepare. The key is organization and pre-prep work, the mise en place. His contents are arranged by the time it takes to cook these dishes. They range from “no time to shop” and fast food (less than 15 minutes), through 20 – 30 minutes, 30 – 60 minutes, and slow cooking. Mains and desserts are covered, and instructions are given in a countdown format. All the ingredients appear to be easy to find, and they are measured in both metric and avoirdupois. There are basic cook’s notes and instructions. Audience and level of use: intermediate level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: risotto rice pudding with sultanas; tuna carpaccio with mustard spit French beans; lemon and chili sesame pork; broken feta cheese salad with apples and pears; fiery mushrooms on toast; warm salmon on brown bread with cucumber mayonnaise. The downside to this book: British orientation – you’ll need to know that aubergines are eggplants, and pak choy is bok choy, at least in the index. The upside to this book: an interesting concept, although a database or index an do the same thing, but with more variety. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 9. THE BOOK OF YIELDS; accuracy in food costing and purchasing. Seventh edition. CD-ROM (Wiley, 2008, ISBN 978-0-470-16764-9, price n/a) is now available separately from the hard cover book. I had reviewed the book last year as: “a basic work for students and chefs, and it comes with a workbook. It tells you what you need to know for “how much food to buy”. It is a collection of accurate food measurements for over 1,000 or so raw food ingredients. Measurements are given in weight-to-volume equivalents, trim yields, and cooking yields. Part One of the contents covers herbs and spices, produce, starchy foods, baking, fats and oils, dairy, beverages, meats, seafood, and poultry. Part Two is the workbook of costing sheets and conversion tables. Here, recipe cost and yield are most important. Spreadsheets, though, should be able to handle all of this.” And indeed we have it in the CD-ROM, which will do all the calculating for you. You can use preloaded recipes or input your own. Shopping lists can be generated too. Audience and level of use: schools of hospitality, food libraries, any restaurant doing a volume business. Some interesting or unusual facts: Netscape is not supported. The downside to this book: Only US measurements are given, so you will need to convert to metric or imperial. That is why a spreadsheet works better than paper and pen. Quality-to-Price Ratio: 90. 10. FANTASTICO! Modern Italian food (Kyle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-904920-71-7, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Gino D’Acampo, who appears regularly on UK TV shows as an accredited chef with his own line of foods and a resto in Naples, Italy. It is the second such titled book to appear recently (Broadway Books had the title “Fantastico!” in 2007), but that one covered small bites. Here are 100 recipes done up in the modern light style. He has several rules, which should be rigidly enforced. One, you must be in the mood for cooking. If not, then don’t. Two, you should spend less time cooking and more time buying the right food. Three, you shouldn’t use too many strong flavours in a dish. There’s also another rule he writes: the first time you prep, do the recipe completely his way; you can change it the next time through. He has a section entitled “first aid for food”: how to maximize poor tomatoes, mozzarella, out-of-season unripe fruit, old salad greens, old avocados, and more. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there are metric conversion charts. All courses are embraced, including breakfasts. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken in bread crumbs with tomato sauce and spinach; saffron risotto with zucchini and pork; duck breasts in limoncello sauce; apple and pine nut cake with honeyed mascarpone; strawberry and pistachio and ricotta soufflé; deep-fried polenta with sage and pancetta. The downside to this book: too many, way too many, pix of stud Gino. The upside to this book: good food photos. Quality/Price Rating: 84. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 11. TWINKIE, DECONSTRUCTED (Plume Books, 2008, 282 pages, ISBN 978-0- 452-28928-4, $15US paper covers) is by Steve Ettlinger, a writer of popular reference materials. It was originally published last year in 2007. The rather long subtitle pretty well says it all: “my journey to discover how the ingredients found in processed foods are grown, mined (yes, mined), and manipulated into what America eats. As Pollan did with a cow in “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”, Ettlinger does to the Twinkie – sourcing where all the stuff which created the food comes from. You can read the label yourself; Ettlinger tracks down the components of processed and packaged foods: polysorbate 60, high fructose corn syrup, partially hydrogenated vegetable shortening, but only two brief mentions of MSG. Marion Nestle calls his book “terrific detective work and terrific fun to read”. Try a visit to the phosphate mines in Idaho, or the gypsum mines in Oklahoma. Beginning at the source, each Twinkie ingredient is followed as it is crushed, baked, fermented, refined, etc. The original Twinkie came from Wonder Bread in 1930, with a shelf life of two days. Now? Shelf life is anybody’s guess...This is a must read. Quality/Price rating: 90. 12. CAFE COLLECTION (Penguin Books, 2006, 2007, (128 and 128 and 136) pages, ISBN 9780143020660, $38 Canadian soft covers) is by food writer Julie Le Clerc, a former cafe owner and chef. It is a reprint of three separately published books, “Simple Cafe Food” (1999), “More Simple Cafe Food” (2000) and “Simple Deli Food’ (2002). All three books are combined together. With no changes to the books, that means THREE separate indexes, which is a pain. Since there can be two or more recipes per page, there are several hundred recipes here. Her take is mainly on “cafe” food, which fits in with the new tapas small plates. All courses are covered, with an emphasis on make aheads such as soups and stews, lots of breads and pastries, easy to prepare salads and sandwiches and other light lunch dishes. While there is a summer lamb meatloaf, there is also a more challenging olive-coated rack of lamb. Weights are in metric, while volumes are in Imperial measurements. Quality/Price rating: 86. 13. A SHORT HISTORY OF THE AMERICAN STOMACH (Harcourt, 2008, 205 pages, ISBN 978-0-15-101194-0, $23US hard covers) is by Frederick Kaufman, an English professor who also writes on American food culture for Gourmet, Gastronomica, and mainstream magazines. Of the seven chapters here, two have been published in Harper’s, and two more from Harper’s were incorporated into the book as well as some material from the New Yorker. The book is thus wide-ranging, and explores themes such as the Amish black market raw milk dealers, the South Beach diet, the Food Network, hot dog eating contests, and the like. Log rollers include Marion Nestle and Lawrence Osborne (The Accidental Connoisseur). The extremes here cover “stuffing” and “starving” our North American selves. It is all served up with a light humour, large typeface, and an index. Quality/Price rating: 88. 14. EXPLORING TASTE & FLAVOUR; the art of combining hot, sour, salty and sweet in 150 recipes (Kyle Cathie, 2005, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-728-1, $35 CDN soft covers) is a straight reissue of the 2005 hardback which won a World Gourmand Award and was nominated for an IACP Award. It is by Tom Kime who created UK Tesco’s Thai food line and is a BBC food writer. Most of this book is SEAsia; the 150 recipes are meant to combine hot, sour, salty, sweet and bitter for balance. The blending of flavours is useful, of course, but Kime does not even mention umami. Kime devotes space to discussing the principles of SEAsia taste theory, suggesting that some combos of food work well together. His taste directory of food is divided by the five categories. He has material on matching wine with spicy food, when you want to go beyond riesling or gewürztraminer. Chapters are arranged by course, with one whole section on one-pot creations. Recipes include cha ca (fish with turmeric and fresh dill): miang khom (salad of prawns with ginger, lime and chili); gravad lox (with detailed instructions); Moroccan grilled squid salad with chermoula; spicy sausage and bean soup with roast tomatoes; and roasted pork belly with caramelized peanut and chili dressing. Quality/Price rating: 88. 15. PURE VEGETARIAN (Kyle Cathie, 2006, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-740-3, $35 CDN paper covers) is by Paul Gayler, a British Executive Chef at The Lanesborough, recipe book author, and multiple TV UK show personality. It was originally published in 2006, and this is a straight reprint but in paper covers. The broad range of 150 recipes includes finger food, appetizers, soups, salads, pasta and grains, mains and desserts – all fairly upscale. There are a series of vegetable stocks and sauces to prep the foods. As a British book, there is no coverage of eggplants and zucchini, but rather of aubergines and courgettes. Recipes include avocado salsa rolls, spelt soup, Roquefort- stuffed fig salad, wild rice and parsnip rice fritters, butternut squash and blue cheese tacos, Persian ratatouille-baked tomatoes, Cajun mozzarella and ricotta fritters, crushed artichoke and goat cheese pesto toasts, Spanish romanescu baby leeks, and beetroot gazpacho. Ingredients are listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there are conversion tables. Quality/Price rating: 86. 16. THE FOOD AND COOKING OF TURKEY (Lorenz Books, 2007; distr. NBN, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7548-1763-5, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Ghillie Basan, a cookbook writer specializing in Middle East and SE Asia cooking. Her previous “Classic Turkish Cooking” was shortlisted for some book awards in 1998. This current book was previously published, in part, as that shortlisted book. She has about 150 recipes shown step-by=step in 800 photographs. There is a fair bit of culinary history as well as geography, a comprehensive visual guide to Turkish ingredients, and detailed instructions – all in the first 60 pages. Modern Turkish cuisine comes from both its melting pot position between Europe and Asia, and the scores of religious festivals. She ranges from soups, meze, hot snacks, salads, pilafs, fish-meat-poultry, vegetables, sweet snacks, jams and more. The book is oversized and somewhat unwieldy in the kitchen. Ingredient measurements are in both avoirdupois and metric; each recipe has full nutritional information (calories, protein, carbos, fat, cholesterol, calcium, fibre and sodium). There is also a glossary. Recipes include a plum tomato and almond jam, yogurt cake in orange syrup, shredded chicken with walnuts, lamb skewers with flat bread, chicken liver pilaf with currants and pine nuts, lentils with carrots and sage. Quality/Price rating: 90. 17. GREEN & BLACK’S CHOCOLATE RECIPES; from the cacao pod to cookies, desserts, and savory dishes (Kyle Cathie, 2003, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-904920-67-0, $19.95US soft covers) is by Caroline Jeremy, under the sponsorship of Green & Black chocolates, a firm that began in 1991 with organic and fair trade chocolate. It was originally published in 2003, and won a World Gourmand Cookbook Award. This 2007 reissue has been “Americanized”, even to the extent of changing the subtitle from “...to muffins, mousses, and moles” and labeling some recipes “Wicked”. Typical preps include chocolate bread, Italian venison agrodolce, rich stout cake, chocolate apple cake, and brigadeiros. Quality/Price rating: 90. ---------------------------------------------------- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR FEBRUARY 2008 ============================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: !! 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. TO CORK OR NOT TO CORK; tradition, romance, science, and the battle for the wine bottle (Scribner, 2007, 278 pages, ISBN 978-0-7432-9934-3, $26US hard covers) is by George M. Taber, author of “Judgment of Paris” a book of the year in 2006 for Decanter magazine. And hopefully, this current book too will also be a Book of the Year. It is the first really significant wine book to come along in quite some time. Here is this history of sealing bottles, how cork was discovered, how corks are made, and why corks are possibly the best and most effective stoppers of all. If it weren’t for the TCA and chlorine compounds, life would be jolly. But it isn’t. Taber goes into the reasons for cork’s sudden rise in 2,4,6,-TCA levels, as well as other chlorine goodies. Modernization has killed the old fashioned cork. First, the musty taste and smell from TCA’s reaction to chlorine-as-sterilizer. Second, oxidation resulted from the new bottling lines, which demanded speed for efficiency (they put silicone finishes on corks in order to quickly seal a bottle, but the finish created gaps allowing wine to be exposed to air). Both of these increase defective wines to about 15% of the total. Yet about 10% is the profit margin, and wineries lost money here. Taber examines the Portuguese cork industry, with its lack of quality control in the early 1970s after the revolution. He looks at new closures such as plastic corks and Corq, glass, screw caps (and the various liners needed), and Zorks. The first test of screw caps for wine was at Davis in 1950. Essentially, though, it all came down to marketing. Plastic corks were more acceptable to consumers than screw caps – and they still are. There is a concluding bibliography (but no end notes) and an index. Audience and level of use: people who like to read about wine and the industry. Some interesting or unusual facts: TCA was first identified and named in 1981. A solution was possible, but Taber says that the Portuguese ignored the problem, hoping that it would go away. They were also afraid that if they examined their corks, too many of the corks would be rejected. The downside to this book: a few niggling errors (Gall sold Hearty Burgundy at retail in five-gallon jugs? Maybe 5 litre jugs. Tin capsules? Maybe lead capsules for a 1961 Grand Cru Bordeaux. And others...Also, there was no mention of the “Riesling with a Twist Campaign”. The index is not as comprehensive as one would hope. If you wanted to know about New Zealand screwcap activities (and there are two whole chapters on this), you’d never know from the index since there is no entry for New Zealand or any initiatives. It has all been located within the “screwcap” entry, which is a long series of sub-entries. The upside to this book: a well-written, fascinating account of an engrossing subject. Quality/Price Rating: 98. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. IN DEFENSE OF FOOD; an eater’s manifesto (Penguin Press, 2008, 244 pages, ISBN 978-1-59420-145-5, $19.95US hard covers) is by Michael Pollan, author of “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”, which was the top-rated non-fiction book of 2006. The picture of leaf lettuce on the cover pretty well tells it all; it is accompanied by the text: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” Some of this material was previously published last year in the New York Times’ magazine; that article was meant as a follow-up to his 2006 book. As he plainly makes clear, the real evil in food is the ideology that controls everyday eating. Pollan calls it “nutritionism”; it promotes nutrients above the food itself. In many ways, it is a lot like the movement of the late 19th century with Kellogg and Graham and their flours and foods. When you diet, you end up changing your balance of nutrients in your foods. Thus, a low- fat diet becomes a high-carb diet. When “additives” and “supplements” provide nutrients, you really don’t know if they will work in the same way as in “food”. Another argument against nutritionism is that new discoveries and new research methods have overturned the past: butter is better than its trans-fat replacement, free-range food is better that battery food, no fresh eggs were used in the 1960s cholesterol trials (powdered eggs were used, and that skewed the results), fat is a carrier in our bodies for natural nutrients and thus must be present in our diet. He goes on to show that many studies were flawed. For example, a half billion dollar eight year study of low-fat diets for women showed that the target range of 20% of total calories from fat intake was never achieved. The lowest it got was 29%. Because food corporations make their money on both novelties and long shelf lives, then all processed foods should be avoided. He produces what we can call the “The Michael Rules”. Some don’t rules: don’t eat food incapable of rotting; don’t eat food with unfamiliar ingredients and/or HFCS (high fructose corn syrup); don’t eat food that make health claims or are dietary supplements. Some do rules: do eat mostly plants (especially leaves); do eat wild foods; do pay more to eat less; do have a glass of wine with dinner. Audience and level of use: For retrovores (those who eat food that was raised the way they used to be raised) -- anyone concerned about what they eat, or looking for guidance on how to eat wisely. And everybody who read his first book. Some interesting or unusual facts: “I’m hoping this book will give people tools so they don’t have to be dependent on people like me” The downside to this book: while he has good material on fructose corn syrup, he has nothing on the other devil, MSG. The upside to this book: he has a great collection of printed sources (books and magazines) plus websites listed. Quality/Price Rating: 94. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS 3. IN DEFENSE OF FOOD; an eater’s manifesto (Penguin Audio, 2008, unabridged, 6.5 hours on 5 CDs, ISBN 978-0-14-314274-4, $38.50 Canadian) is the complete and unabridged audiotext version of Pollan’s book. It has been read by Scott Brick, who also narrated the 2006 “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”. While all the text is here in unabridged format, there is no listing of the sources nor of the index, which is a shame...Quality/Price rating: 94. 4. BEYOND NOSE TO TAIL; more omnivorous recipes for the adventurous cook (Bloomsbury, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 226 pages, ISBN 978-1-59691- 414-8, $35 US hard covers) is by Fergus Henderson, the chef-author of “Nose to Tail Eating” (2000). It is a follow-up book of some 100 recipes, with second thoughts of staircase wisdom from the first book. Here he adds desserts (puddings), baking and bread to the original book. The original PR blurb said “part II” but this was replaced with the words “more” and “beyond”. Henderson owns the London resto St. John Bread and Wine. The meat recipes here deal more with the cheaper cuts of meat such as lamb shoulder, pigeon pies, and venison liver. Ingredients are all measured in metric. Audience and level of use: those interested in British cookery, or who have read his first book and need some carbos. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Wigmore cheese and potato pie; snail, trotter, sausage and chick peas; confit pig’s cheek and dandelion; pickled shallots; minced beef and tatties; fennel, butterbean, oxtail soup. The downside to this book: very British. The upside to this book: there is a nice recipe for pressed pig’s ear, but it was not indexed under “ear”. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. THE ELEMENTS OF COOKING; translating the chef’s craft for every kitchen (Scribner, 2007, 245 pages, ISBN 978-0-7432-9978-7, $24US hard covers) is by Thomas Ruhlman, author of 12 books, including “The Making of a Chef” and “The French Laundry Cookbook” (as co-author). Notable logrollers include Anthony Bourdain, Jacques Pepin, and even Alton Brown (Food Network). Ruhlman tries to present the essential rules (“ruhls”?) of good cooking, heavily influenced by French techniques. The arrangement is A – Z, dictionary format, running from “acid” to “zester”. The first 50 pages of notes are interesting, since they cover “from stock to finesse”: the difference between a cook and a chef is apparently “finesse”. These pages cover salt, sauces, eggs, heat, and tools. His entries include a pronunciation guide where needed, and the more than occasional reference to “see McGee” (Howard McGee’s book). Of course, Ruhlman prefers metric measurements for ingredients, and scaling where possible. His bibliography is great: I’ve got all of them except for one from 1988, although I also have Saulnier’s Repertoire and Hering’s Dictionary, which he does NOT source. Both books are useful aide-memoires for the chef. His notes on “recipes”, under “R” in the dictionary section, should have been in the essay section where more people would have read it. The key to utilizing a recipe is to always have a “mise en place”. You can find more about this book at www.ruhlman.com. Audience and level of use: advanced foodies. Some interesting or unusual facts: “McGee’s [On Food and Cooking] is the most important book about food and cooking ever written, probably in any language”. The downside to this book: there is no index to retrieve the nitty- gritty. And why is the 1997 Rombauer Joy of Cooking cited in the bibliography and not the latest 2006 edition which has restored all the old faves? Does he hate casseroles? The upside to this book: France rules!! Quality/Price Rating: 89. 6. FANTASTICO! Little Italian plates (Broadway Books, 2007, 274 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-2381-1, $35US hard covers) is by Rick Tramonto, a chef who now has a restaurant management and development company with multiple concepts and ownerships. The focusing food writer is Mary Goodbody, a food writer and editor who had previously worked with Tramonto on the book “Amuse-Bouche”. This time they have moved on to the next course: small plates. But of course, Italian small plates, which includes appetizers and snacks with wine. He wants us all to “think small”, which is useful, but you still need to spend a certain quantity of time and preparation in doing the work. His contents cover such areas as “assaggio” (Italian amuse-bouche), then “bocconcini” (small bites), bruschetta, crostini, crudo, antipasti, dried cured meats, panini, cicchetti, and cheese. His 100 recipes come with wine recommendations and tips on buying the foods. US volume measurements are used throughout, and the sources list is all US. Audience and level of use: those into trendy tapas, small plate stuff. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: abruzzi swordfish rollups; goat cheese with frisee salad; heirloom tomatoes with burrata cheese; grilled radicchio di treviso; roasted cipolline; marinated white anchovy and dandelion salad The downside to this book: what are all the chapter heads in Italian except for “cheese”? What’s wrong with formaggio? The upside to this book: good wine notes Quality/Price Rating: 85. 7. COOKING (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 540 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-789-6, $40US hard covers) is by the indefatigable James Peterson, an award winning cookbook author and food writer. He began as a chef, moved into teaching, and now also produces cookbooks – now up to 13 or 14. This cookbook weighs just over 5.5 pounds (2.5 kilos). He claims one million of his cookbooks are in print, but he still needs log rolling from Jeremiah Tower and Bonnie Stern. These 600 recipes form a learn-how-to cook book. There are some 1500 instructional photos which show how preps are made: how to cut up a chicken, shuck an oyster, get pan sauces, and ice a cake. He begins with the basic ten cooking methods, and then moves on to the basic preps such as roast chicken, grilled steak, braised fish, mashed potatoes and gravy, pizza, and berry pie. All courses are covered from apps to desserts, expressed in double columned pages with one or two recipes per page. US volume measurements are used for the ingredients, but there are conversion charts. There is also a glossary of cooking terms on the inside cover pages. Try www.jimcooks.com for more details and recipes. Audience and level of use: beginners, schools of hospitality, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: foie gras terrine; fried squid; borscht; shrimp and tomatillo soup; bean and parsley salad; chicken fricassee with spring vegetables. The downside to this book: heavy book, hard to maneuver. The upside to this book: there is a separate table of contents foe the how-to photography. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 8. BEANEATERS & BREAD SOUP (Quadrille Publishing, 2007; distr. Ten Speed Pres, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84400-462-1, $45US hard covers) is by Lori De Mori, a British food writer who bought a farm in Tuscany and now specializes in writing about Tuscan food. Food and location photography is by Jason Lowe, her husband. Tuscans were once known as “mangiafagioli”, or bean eaters. This is a chronicle of Tuscan culinary customs, with 25 portraits of food artisans and 90 recipes. Tuscany, of course, is a very trendy area, a host to dozens of cooking and wine schools. Small producers she has profiled include a pasta maker, a beekeeper, a mushroom forager, knife maker, shepherd, olive oil creator, artichoke grower, and the like. For example, she interviews Famiglia Frullani, chestnut growers, and there is a description of the process, how low-tech they all are, material on drying chestnuts, plus three recipes (roasted chestnuts, chestnut polenta with ricotta, and chestnut flour cake). There is an overall list of recipes, divided into courses, and there are also Italian names for the preps. She has contact data as well as a small map of where they are clustered in Tuscany. The ingredients are measured in metric but she also used teaspoons and tablespoons. Audience and level of use: Tuscan lovers, memoirists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: salad of guinea fowl, radicchio, and fennel; farro salad; sauteed bitter greens; tagliolini with chanterelles. The downside to this book: no index, just a list of recipes to scan. Also, there are no tables of equivalents. The upside to this book: there is a ribbon book mark. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 9. AUTHENTIC RECIPES FROM MOROCCO (Periplus Editions, 2007; distr. Ten Speed Press, 112 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0325-0, $14.95US hard covers) is by Fatema Hal, a food writer who now lives in Paris where she operates “La Mansouria” restaurant. This is one of a modestly priced series “Authentic Recipes from...” Her 60 recipes are basic to the cuisine, and concentrate on spices, tagines, and couscous. There is a brief survey of the history of food in Morocco, where cuisine is essentially a feminine art. There are details about ceremonies and the impact of Islam on the food. These are complemented with touristy pictures. Her pantry lists specific ingredients, of course, but substitutions are suggested, such as using black caraway seeds for Nigella seeds. There are lots of relevant lamb and chicken dishes. Metric conversion charts complete the package. Audience and level of use: curious cooks, tourists to Morocco. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: caraway soup; goat cheese pastries; cinnamon rice pudding; lamb with prunes and sesame seeds; roasted spiced eggplant puree; spring vegetable couscous. The downside to this book: the index is only by recipe title, so “country Bread” is under “C” and not “B”. “Braised lamb” is under “B”. The upside to this book: a concise overview. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. THE HEALTHY HEDONIST HOLIDAYS; a year of multicultural, vegetarian- friendly holiday feasts (Simon & Schuster, 2007, 275 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7432-8725-8, $19.95US paper covers) is by Myra Kornfeld, a food writer and restaurant chef specializing in vegetarian food. This is an ethnic- based “flexitarian” cookbook, centered on celebrations throughout the year. Each of the 15 holiday menus offer a vegetarian and fish/poultry main plus sides, appetizers and desserts. Vegans can also pick their way through the dishes. Opportunities include Kwanzaa (Ethiopian-style feats), Easter (Greek), Christmas Eve (East European dishes), Ramadan, Thanksgiving, Chanukah, Cinco de Mayo, etc. The food emphasis is on appropriate spicing of seasonal foods, whole grains, and natural sugars. There’s a page or so about culinary traditions surrounding the event and a series of cook’s notes for a prep time line (weeks ahead, days ahead, day of, etc.). Decorations are up to you. The glossary of ingredients is followed by a US resources list and weight and volume equivalency tables. Audience and level of use: celebratory foodies. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for example of Chinese New Year, there is shrimp and eggplant dumplings, sesame noodles with wilted Napa cabbage, tofu and black bean sauce, roast chicken, bok choy, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, and almond-orange fortune cookies. The downside to this book: resource list is all US The upside to this book: there is a focus on holidays for vegetarians, and for those who need or want a meat option. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 11. THE WRITING DIET; write yourself right-size (Tarcher Penguin, 2007, 234 pages, ISBN 978-1-58542-571-6, $19.95US hard covers) is by Julia Cameron, an artist and writer who has written many books about the creative process, such as “The Artist’s Way”. Her book is based on the simple premise that creativity can block overeating. Her research is fairly sound: in over 25 years of teaching a 12 week course on creative unblocking she has seen many of her students dramatically lose weight. She wants you to take your mind off your stomach, to substitute writing “food for thought” for actual food. She uses journaling to examine one’s relationship with food. We should learn to treat food cravings as invitations to evaluate what we are TRULY craving in our emotional lives. Her book has been strongly endorsed by Natalie Goldberg (Writing Down the Bones) and Dr. Christiane Northrup (Women’s Bodies). Part One presents the tools of morning writing, journaling, walking, and HALT (hunger, anger, loneliness, tired). Part Two deals with situations and solutions, with case studies (virtually al women). There are a short series of sidebars of how-to tips which serve as chapter summaries. Situation examples include night eating, snacks, relapse, food as a high, exercises, water, fresh food, sex, breakfast, the fridge, clothes, mirrors, desserts, and affirmations. There are no recipes, and one main generic menu. Audience and level of use: more for women than for men. Some interesting or unusual facts: Overeating blocks creativity, and creativity blocks overeating. Break the cycle by finding something new to do. The downside to this book: there is no index, but the chapters are short and concise enough that most of the relevant material that you would be looking for can be captured on a few pages. The upside to this book: sensible eating menu, a lifestyle book. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 12. FRANCESCO’S KITCHEN; an intimate guide to the authentic flavours of Venice (Ebury Press, 2007, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-09192-228-3, $65 Canadian hard cover) is by Francesco da Mosta, and architect and filmmaker. He has lived in Venice for most of his life, and his firm specializes in restoration projects in Venice. He had filmed two BBC2 series on Venice and Italy. Here he shows us his 16th century palazzo in the centre of Venice. The 150 recipes are spruced around Venetian food history and reminiscences, almost a memoir. Local cuisine is based on fish and spices, plus crossroads food too. Thus we also have pasta, risottos, and polenta. The tour begins as the courses progress, from antipasti through pasta, fish, meat, vegetables, and then desserts. He has lots of history tucked away in his cook’s notes. But the discussion on local wines is too short, and he seems to favour convivial social drinks and coffee shops. Ingredients are listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements. The index is by ingredient name and the Italian name of the dish. Audience and level of use: lovers of Venetian cuisine. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: buranei (biscuits); hare pie; roast goose with apple and chestnuts; marinated sardines; leek risotto; gnocchi veronesi; polenta with beans. The downside to this book: too many touristy pictures. The upside to this book: specific to a region, and there are illustrations with historical paintings and engravings. Quality/Price Rating: 86. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 13. ELIZABETH FALKNER’S DEMOLITION DESSERTS; recipes from Citizen Cake (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 230 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-781-0, $35US hard covers) is by the chef/owner of Citizen Cake, Citizen Cupcake, and Orson in San Francisco. She was a pastry chef of the year in 2006 (Bon Appetit), and has appeared regularly on the Food Network, including “Iron Chef America”. Notable log rollers for the book include Mario Batali and four other chefs. But why also Robin Williams? Here are 65 or so dessert recipes, with lots of colour photography for the preps and (too many) location shots. The 10 anime-style sequences can appeal to a young audience; they illustrate key techniques and ingredient information throughout the book. Most of the preps are elaborate and somewhat complex, but they have been adapted to home kitchens. Each comes with a preparation timeline for organization and mise en place, and there is also a “minimalist” version for those who are pressed for time. Commercial chefs scale everything by weight. Falkner lists both home cooking volumes and scaling for the ingredients, and this is a good thing, since only scaling is accurate. Thus, under apple galettes, we read that you can prepare the puff pastry up to one month in advance, make the caramel sauce one week in advance, and what to do just before serving. The minimalist version suggests making strip tarts rather than the puff pastry. For the ingredients, you’ll need 2 cups (or 10 ounces) of flour, 12 tablespoons (6 ounces) of cold unsalted butter, etc. She opens the book with – what else? – chocolate chip cookies. She follows with chocolate desserts, fruit, cupcakes, “classics”, and heavy construction and layering. The publisher has a metric conversion chart at the back. Check out www.citizencake.com. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 14. THE TEXAS HILL COUNTRY COOKBOOK; a taste of Provence (ThreeForks, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 162 pages, ISBN 978-0-7627-4375-9, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Scott Cohen, executive chef of Las Canarias and Pesca on the River, both in San Antonio. Co-author Marian Betancourt is a freelance food writer with an immense string of credits to her name. Notable logrollers include Jacques Pepin and Ed Brown (Eight One Restaurant in NYC). After 15 years in New York (this after a stagiaire in France), Cohen moved out to Texas. Here they present about 100 recipes derived from his two places, and they are reflective of the landscape. But I rather think that it more Sonoma than Provence, since many of the dishes had that Southwest flavour. Typical dishes include black olive tapenade with pickled nopalitos, tuna tartare with sesame seeds and serrano, squash blossom roasted corn huitacoche soup, red snapper cioppino, pissaladiere with goat cheese, cauliflower mashes with Mexican oregano. There is the usual equipment and pantry inventory advice, condiments, sources in the surrounding Texas Hill country area, and a metric conversion table. This is reliable and do-able cooking. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 15. THE BOSTON CHEF’S TABLE; the best in contemporary cuisine (ThreeForks, 2008; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 234 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7627-4514-2, $24.95 US hard covers) has been assembled by Clara Silverstein, a former food writer with the Boston Herald. She has collected and highlighted over 100 recipes from chefs in the Boston area, including Todd English, Jasper White, and Lydia Shire. Chapters are arranged by course (appetizers to desserts and brunch), and the recipes – of course – have been modified for home use. Each prep gets an entry for the restaurant, along with names and addresses and web sites. Sometimes cook’s notes are offered. And there is always a mini- profile of the establishment, sometime with a photo. Thus, for New England cheese pie there is an entry for Meritage at the Boston Harbor Hotel, under Executive Chef Daniel Bruce. There’s lobster and sweet potato cakes from Ned Devine’s at Faneuil Hall, scallops with turnip puree from Blu, beet and kale risotto from L’Espalier, and baked lemon pudding from Locke-Ober. Restaurants and recipes are indexed together, and there is a metric conversion chart for the US measurements. Quality/Price rating: 90. 16. BISTRO LAURENT TOURONDEL; new American bistro cooking (John Wiley, 2008, 286 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-75883-9, $34.95US hard covers) is by the eponymous Executive Chef who has more than six restaurants in the US. He was named Restaurateur of the Year for 2007 by Bob Appetit. Food author Michele Scicolone is the co-writer. Noted logrollers include the usual team of Batali and Flay. Here, Tourondel has 150 recipes derived from his restaurants, which have been described as “traditional French bistro with the a la carte options of an American steakhouse.” An initial response might be: “how thrilling!” But ultimately this is global fusion cuisine with a multiplicity of flavours centered on a core of meat or seafood tones. The range, and table of contents, moves from appetizers through to desserts: grilled white asparagus, egg, prosciutto, black truffle vinaigrette; green papaya chicken salad; spicy curry duck noodles; potato-watercress soup, blue cheese and bacon; roasted cod fish, herb-bacon crust; dried apricot bread pudding. US volume measurements for each ingredient are used, but there is no table of metric equivalents (except for oven temperatures). He has a special section on techniques, but there are still too many extraneous photos of the chef and his resto at work. Wine suggestions and cook’s tips are exceedingly useful. Mail order sources are all US, mostly within striking distance of New York City. Quality/Price rating: 87. 17. NEW WORLD PROVENCE; modern French cooking for friends and family (Arsenal Pulp Books, 2007, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-223-4, $22.95US soft covers) is by the husband-and-wife team of Alessandra and Jean- Francis Quaglia. They met while working at restos in Nice. They opened their first Provence restaurant in Vancouver in 1997, and their second in 2002. Here are 130 healthy and simple recipes based on their resto menus. Antipasti comes first (I’m allowing that word since the Italians were all over Provence before the French were), followed by appetizers and the rest of the courses. For some reason, there is a chapter on Brunch, between the Meat Mains and the Desserts. Try sauteed squid with chili-citrus vinaigrette; salade forestiere; roasted vegetable tartelettes with sun-dried tomatoes; fennel pollen-dusted wild salmon with lemon aioli; pear and fig torte. The preps are more Northern Mediterranean rather than Provencal, but it is all the same related cuisine. The narrative material and cook’s tips are a bit memoirish, and there are extraneous photos of the authors and/or staff and friends standing around or preparing something, rather than pictures about the plated food. US volume and metric weight measures are mingled and inconsistent; there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 86. 18. ONE POT ITALIAN COOKING (Whitecap, 2007, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1- 55285-900-1, $29.95 paper covers) is by Massimo Capra, co-owner and chef of Mistura in Toronto. He appears regularly on the Food Network, and this book is endorsed by two other Food Network regulars, Lynn Crawford (Four Seasons in NYC) and Michael Smith. It is a strange book for Capra to author, since he runs an upscale Italian resto at Av and Dav in Toronto. One pot? Does Mistura even do one pot cooking? Well, yes it does: balsamic-glazed lamb ribs, which has been and still is a fixture on their menu. He says that lamb ribs are hard to find (probably because his resto has cornered the market on them!) but worth the effort. Here are more than 100 “easy” and “authentic” recipes. One pot is also to taken to mean one skillet or one sauce pan as well. So we get soups, stews and braises, sautés, and desserts. Most of the food is definitely rustic. Try Tuscan cabbage soup (ribollita), chestnut polenta, farmer’s risotto, garganelli with fava beans and prosciutto, chicken rolls with eggplant, or Lombardy sand cake. Quality/Price rating: 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JANUARY 2008 ============================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: !!! 2008 WARNING – NEW PRICE ALERT: All prices listed below are now in US DOLLARS as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition (or not) of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THIS FOOD THAT WINE; wine food and pairing made easy (McArthur & Company, 2007, 377 pages, ISBN 978-1-55278-684-0, $29.95 paper covers) is by Angie MacRae and Stacey Metulynsky, co-hosts of the Food Network show of the same name as the book’s title. This is a companion book to the TV series. Here are 150 recipes emphasizing simple, fresh and big flavours. Each recipe is accompanied by wine pairing suggestions and explanations, such as why some wines work and others do not. Usually, there is a main wine match and a secondary wine for each recipe. Canadian content abounds with baco noir, vidal, and icewine being covered. All recipe ingredients are expressed in both metric and imperial measurements, a bonus in production. The index includes varietal names, but it needs fine tuning. For instance, under the heading of “merlot” there are beef matches and pork matches generically indicated. But looking under “beef”, I found only 8 recipes and no wines were cited for matching. You can check out more wine matches at Stacey’s website www.groovygrapes.com . Audience and level of use: whoever wants to know more about food and wine pairing. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lemon chicken lollipops (match with gewurztraminer or prosecco); pan fried trout (riesling); roquefort and green apple tart (off-dry riesling); poached halibut provencal (white Rhone or Italian soave); roast chicken (oaked chardonnay or pinot noir); vegetable phyllo roll (cabernet franc). The downside to this book: too much space wasted on the introductory wine stuff, which is common and found everywhere. I could scream... The upside to this book: breezy style sells: the book appeals to a younger crowd, not to old fogeys. Quality/Price Rating: 88. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. DECONSTRUCTING THE DISH; inspirations for modern-day cuisine (Whitecap, 2007, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-897-4, $35 soft covers) is by David Adjey, a consulting chef on the ever-popular “Restaurant Makeover”. He has also appeared on other Food Network shows. He was once Dan Aykroyd’s personal chef, and Dan has endorsed the book. He begins by stating “I dissect and explain each dish as comprised of building blocks, each hidden within the finished dish”. Exploring this way will allow you to start from the centre (the principle) and work out to the garnish, the vegetable, and the sauce. Adjey also promotes 12 rules, one of which is “Cook from a different region in the world at least once a week”. He has the book arranged from Fall to Summer. These are all complex flavours, not for the faint of heart. Nor are they quick and easy. You’ll need to put some work into it. And that’s a good thing, for spin-offs and variations will later come to you. He has 40 mains and accompaniments or garnishes; there are no apps or desserts. Ingredients are expressed in both US and metric forms. He has a glossary and basic recipes for stocks. Audience and level of use: other chefs, those looking for a challenge. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: duck twofer (roasted breast and confit leg); grouper, yellow pepper, purple potato, pink grapefruit; oxtail, red wine ragout, butternut squash ravioli, fried parsley; turkey, oyster bread pudding, lima beans, white gravy; ancho rabbit, pozole-poblano stew, epazote-hominy ensalada. The downside to this book: some may decry the lack of apps and desserts. The upside to this book: there is excellent photography, particularly on building the dish and plating presentation. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS 3. THE BALI COOKBOOK (Kyle Cathie, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-715-1, $29.95US soft covers) is by Lonny Gerungan who was born on Bali. In fact, his father was the chef at the Bali Hotel and his mother ran her own resto on the island. Lonny is now a TV chef in the Netherlands; he ran his own Balinese restaurant for 15 years. He has made eight TV shows about Indonesia, and authored 12 cookbooks. Bali attracted almost 2 million international visitors last year (many for the environmental summit), but the publisher claims that this is first major book on Balinese cuisine. It is also being marketed as a “perfect souvenir” for anyone who has been there. There is a fair bit of cultural life explored here. The major religion is “Hindu dharma” which combines Hinduism, animism, and Buddhism. The gods must be appeased each day with offerings of special positive foods – which are then consumed by mortals. There are some modifications here, since Westerners eat less rice than Indonesians do. The ingredient measurements are in metric, with teaspoons for volume measurements. There is also a glossary of ingredients. Audience and level of use: unique book, those wanting to explore an exotic cuisine. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: duck breast satay; grilled chicken with sambal sauce; pork belly barbecued in banana leaves; goat in spicy coconut sauce; spicy pig’s trotters; roasted suckling pig with Balinese spices. The downside to this book: some ingredients are hard to obtain in North America. It’s OK if you live in Australia. The upside to this book: metric conversion chart. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 4. KITCHEN SEASONS; easy recipes for seasonal organic food (Ryland Peters & Small, 2007, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-467-1, $24.95US hard covers) is by Australian food writer and caterer Ross Dobson. It is another in the plethora of “eat locally in season” books. The main rationales to do so are, of course, to save money, to get better nutrition through freshness, and to reduce carbon emissions from the distribution system. There are 76 preps here, from apps to desserts. Spring sees leafy young greens (tender) at their sweetest and crispest, plus asparagus and rhubarb. Summer has tomatoes; fall has fruits; winter has root vegetables. The arrangement is by season. Ancillary data include mail order and websites (all US), along with tips on how use farmers’ markets. All of the preps have US volume measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents. Bonus: the book comes with a ribbon marker. Audience and level of use: basic, useful for newer cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pickled spring vegetables; potato and smoked trout salad; spring chicken soup with herbs; pasta with purple broccoli; sage pork chops with kale colcannon; apple and blueberry tarts. The downside to this book: there is little here on preserving and putting food by (canning, freezing) for using up surpluses and creating out-of-season enjoyment. The upside to this book: variations are indicated for when you try the recipe again as “Next Time”, with page references to other options. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. FOOD, WINE, & FRIENDS; simple menus for great entertaining (Ryland Peters & Small, 2007, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-465-7, $27.95US hard covers) is by Fiona Beckett, a prolific free-lance food writer and cookbook author who has been specializing in food and wine pairing and matching. In fact, she runs the popular website www.matchingfoodandwine.com. She has many menus for all kinds of gatherings, plus drink matches – beyond wines. She has recks for beer, cocktails, coffees and teas, and non-alcoholic beverages. The 110 recipes are scattered over 23 menus, such as creating a cheeseboard by the seasons, a fine wine menu, a tapas event, a dessert menu, a vegetarian harvest dinner, brunch, BBQ, seafood, and Italian and Provencal lunches. Each menu has three or more dishes, with some variations and matching drink ideas. Tips and advice to save time abound. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: good for menu composers and ideas. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there are tables of matching food to wine and matching wine to food. The downside to this book: Only US websites are listed. The upside to this book: excellent photography and settings. There are also tables of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 6. THE 500 BEST-VALUE WINES IN THE LCBO 2008 (Whitecap, 2007, 248 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-866-0, $19.95 soft covers) is by the www.winecurrent.com team of Rod Phillips and Vic Harradine, wine writers and academics. They have worked their way through the LCBO General List and Vintages Essentials, two categories of products in Ontario wherein the wines are always supposed to be available until delisted. Many of the wines thus list for under ten dollars, with most being less than $15. The wines apply to the rest of Canada too, for they employ the CSPC number which is the same everywhere. Except, of course, not every wine is available in every province, nor at the same price point. They give basic info on the wine ratings, the LCBO, wine service, and food and wine pairing. The wines are rated on a five star scale, and are listed by category (colour or style), and then by country, and then alphabetically by producer. Each wine gets some kind of a food recommendation and a rating. There is space for the reader to add his own notes. The original announcement for the book showed that there would be wine labels here to illustrate the notes, but that is not the case with the finished book. Also, there was supposed to be headings for users to add a “Date Bought” and “Your Rating” (this would have been a useful lead to guide, but instead there are just “Notes” and some blank lines). The style of the authors’ notes is just too much PR for me, especially in view of the final rating. For example, the very first wine is a pinot grigio from Argentina at $10.20: “This deserves your attention as a well-paced and well-priced Pinot Grigio in a wine world awash in plonk made from this grape.” And then rated 3.5 stars (“above average value”)? I think not. Too many 3 star wines are written as “delicious”. The actual tasting note describing the wines (fruit, finish, wood tones, etc.) is actually very good and spot on. But not the rest of the note. And the 3.5 starred Gray Fox ($7.10) chardonnay from California – essentially like a US box wine – is undeserving of “pan-fried salmon or trout lightly rubbed with butter under a drizzle of fresh lemon”. Especially since a 4 star wine from Oz, costing more than twice as much, just goes with unadorned “pan- fried salmon”. Or a 4 star Oz chardonnay (again, twice as much in price) goes with unadorned “turkey”. I mean, everything goes with turkey. That’s a no-brainer call. The authors say “McWilliam is a large winery that’s still family-owned – rare today when multinational corporations own most big wineries.” Well, the McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Chardonnay that is here touted is actually a joint venture with Gallo, with the series meant only for export and designed for the markets it is sold in. To me, that makes it “multi-national” and not family. It is also hard to believe that they could give both red and white L’Epayrie 3 stars, especially when an Alsatian Gewurztraminer also gets 3. Some updating is needed as the Turning Leaf wines are now tetrapaks. I am miffed that my two favourite cheapies (a Chilean white and an Italian red) are not even mentioned. Ah well, one man’s wine is another man’s vinegar...While they suggest that the reader can find a wine for every occasion, one has to read the notes in order to find this information. There is no index to style or mood (you’ll have to read Munnelly’s “Best Bottles” book for that, see below). Any relaxing wines, party wines, BBQ, dinner wines, and the like have to be found by plowing through the book. Audience and level of use: beginners, those who want a quide to LCBO wines. The downside to this book: some quibbles with editorial content. The upside to this book: there is an index to grape varieties and to regions. Quality/Price Rating: Munnelly’s book costs two dollars more, but David Lawrason’s guide to essentially the same turf (and sub-arranged by value rather than alphabetically) is $15 less! 87. 7. SOUPS; over 200 of the best recipes (Hamlyn, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-600-61711-2, $12.95US soft covers) has been pulled together by Nicky Hill, although you won’t find this name until page 256. There is no attribution to either Nicky or to the recipes. Soups are very inexpensive and very convenient; I try to have a bowl every day, for they are quick, healthy, and delicious. All seasons are covered here, from cool summer soups to hot winter soups. There are classics, modern twists, and global fusion ethnic soups. The book’s arrangement is by major ingredient (e.g., meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, plus “hearty”, Asian, and “chilled”). There are cook’s notes on how to expand the soups, and indications for prep times, cooking times, and service numbers. After the basics of stock production and equipment, there is a chapter headed “finishing touches” to cover garnishes, cream, bread, croutons, herbs, and spicing levels. Audience and level of use: soup lovers, beginning cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken and corn soup; pea and mint soup; melon and prosciutto soup; spicy apple and potato soup; garlic and almond soup; iced tomato soup with salsa verde. The downside to this book: where did the recipes come from? The upside to this book: sturdy binding. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. THE EVERYTHING GUIDE TO STARTING AND RUNNING A CATERING BUSINESS; insider’s advice on turning your talent into a lucrative career (Adams Media, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869- 384-3, $14.95US soft covers) is by Joyce Weinberg, a food industry professional with 20 years of catering experience. It is another entry in the “Everything” series from Adams Media. This “how to” book begins by emphasizing how to choose a name, how to develop a menu, and how to develop a business plan. It is very useful for recent hospitality school grads, stay-at home parents with hospitality experience, and many food professionals looking to be their own boss. The major topics stress both the fun and the not-so-fun aspects, the idea of personal chefs, the American industry set-up, pricing, proposal writing directed to customers, marketing, finding partners and employers, outsourcing food, food presentation, special equipment. She says that the biggest headache is the costing out of the products. She includes some helpful forms, but you’ll need to find out on your own how to stand out from the herd. The resources section is almost all US, certainly for the listings of the associations and the websites. But there is a glossary and a bibliography for further reading. Audience and level of use: small business explorers, newbies. Some interesting or unusual facts: Overall employment of catering workers is expected to increase by more than 27% in the next ten years in North America. The downside to this book: mainly US-based, but principles can apply to Canada. The upside to this book: covers catering software. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... * BILLY’S BEST BOTTLES; wines for 2008 (McArthur & Co., 2007, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-55278-683-3, $21.96 spiral bound) is now in its 18th edition. I got it too late for inclusion in my annual gift article, wherein I discussed other wine annuals. The wines in Billy's listings are all available at the LCBO's General List and some as Vintages Essentials, in Ontario; most will also be found in other provinces and American states. He leads off with his plea for wine drinking by mood, and this mood determines the strength level of the wine. His "Wine By Mood Spectrum Chart" (also at www.billysbestbottles.com) is for food and mood matches, based on fresh wines, medium (body) wines, and rich wines, subdivided by white and red. This is the "Six Pack" approach to wine drinking. Each wine has advice on how to serve plus plenty of food matches and ideas (but the recommendations for pizza are for tomato- sauce and cheese pizzas only). There is a wine calendar for upcoming events in Ontario, but mainly for the GTA region. Wines are indexed by category and by country. But this index can be ripped out in the book store for a listing of the 200 or so wines. This is the major drawback of any spiral bound book. Also, there are not many details about grape varieties for the Euro wines. But it exhibits a no-nonsense commonsense approach to wine, and there is an updated list of touring wineries in Ontario. Quality/Price rating: 87. * WEEK IN WEEK OUT; 52 seasonal stories (Quadrille, 2007, 255 pages, ISBN 978-1-84400-502-4, $45US hard covers) is by Simon Hopkinson, former chef at Bibendum (1987-1995). He is now a full time UK food writer. The material in this volume was previously published in The Independent Saturday magazine between December 1994 and April 2002. If necessary, Hopkinson reworked the recipe. Jason Lowe was the original photographer, and he is back with some presumably new settings. There are 52 productions here, beginning with Winter and moving through Autumn. It is an eclectic mix, relying on seasonal availability. All recipes, of course, are for home use. Each week Hopkinson focused on a particular ingredient or foodie topic at the time. The recipes take their lead from the time of year, and usually there are three or so each week. Try roast quails with butter and lemon; tomatoes stuffed with crab and basil; cold veal with sliced egg and anchovy sauce; hot strawberry and almond pie. Quality/Price rating: 88. * MICHAEL BROADBENT’S POCKET VINTAGE WINE COMPANION (Harcourt, 2007, 408 pages, ISBN 978-0-15-101261-9, $22US hard covers) is by Michael Broadbent, MW, probably the most experienced fine-wine taster in the world, with 55 years and more in the wine trade. He also writes a monthly column for Decanter (and has done so for the past 30 years). This “pocket” book, in a decent 4.83 x 6.75 size, in two colours (black and red inks), updates his previous 2002 book, MICHAEL BROADBENT'S VINTAGE WINE; fifty years of tasting three centuries of wine at $80, so it is a bargain book. He’s shortened the format, leaving out much material from the original 560 large size pages. The original big book began life in 1980, with a revision in 1991 and 2002. This, then, is a third revision, and certainly more affordable. Dropped are his profiles of personalities and many of his anecdotes. Also dropped are Madeira entries, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, various appendices and indexes. Added are updated notes over the past five years, and a re-assessment of all vintages. The sources for his wine notes are from collectors' cellars, wine auctions, legendary tastings, wine society events, and his own personal cellar. He is not consumer-driven like Robert Parker. Most tasting notes have been rewritten and made smaller. France gets 300 pages, Germany 45 pages, California has 20 pages, and Vintage Ports get 25 pages. Bordeaux has the biggest chunk of space, naturally, for it has long lasting, mostly expensive, and widely available wine (plus of course the Brits are just across the Channel from Bordeaux and have an intimate history of involvement in the wine trade, as with Madeira and Port). Bordeaux is the wine which turns up in cellars and auctions everywhere. Most of the whites here are Sauternes. Red Burgundy is mostly DRC. Icewines? Well, none from Canada, but there are a handful from Germany (eiswein). There is also a chart specifying ullage levels and wine terms. Quality/Price rating: 95. * THE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING COOKBOOK; 1,039 recipes from America’s favorite test kitchen. Rev. ed. (Hearst Books, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 608 pages, ISBN 978-1-58816-561-9, $24.95US hard covers) has been edited by Susan Westmoreland, the Food Director of “Good Housekeeping”. It has been often revised over the years; indeed, I grew up with previous editions. It’s a basic book, nothing too fancy, arranged by product or course. Thus, there are chapters on appetizers, soups, stews, quick and easy weeknight meals, quickbreads, desserts, as well as products such as meat, poultry, seafood, eggs, beans, veggies and fruit. The boards inside the covers have tables of equivalents, substitutions, pan volumes, and food equivalents. There are test kitchen tips strewn throughout. The pages are clay coated which allows for colour photography, an added bonus. Plus the pages clean up better should you spill any foods or oils on them. More recipes are at www.goodhousekeeping.com. The book jacket says: “By the time our recipes appear on these pages, they are guaranteed to work in any kitchen, including yours. We promise.” Quality/Price rating: 90. * SOMETHING FOR THE WEEKEND; with eight around the table (Quadrille, 2006, 2007, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84400-507-9, $29.95US soft covers) is by Ruth Watson, an award-winning UK food writer and food editor (Daily Mail). She has twice won the Glenfiddich Award. This book was originally published in 2006 in hard covers, and the paperback reprint is a straight reissue, right down to the Jamie Oliver logrolling. The basic intent is to provide stress-free weekend entertaining, when you can be focused entirely on the guests and the meals. All of the recipes can be prepared in advance, or made to a quick cook stage a la minute. No cook starters are emphasized, as well as one-pot dishes or roasts. The key, of course, is planning. British emphasis. Quality/Price rating: 85. * THE 100-MILE DIET; a year of local eating (Vintage Canada, 2007, 266 pages, ISBN 978-0-679-31483-7, $19.95 paper covers) is by Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon, a couple living in Vancouver. They are both authors and magazine writers. This current book is the 2007 paperback reprint of the hard back book. They make a year-long attempt to eat only food grown and produced with a 100-mile radius of their apartment in Vancouver. They did it when they discovered that the food ingredients that we eat have traveled 1500 miles on average. It’s a little easier to do this on the west coast where the climate is milder and the growing season is longer. But there is no denying that imported foods such as coffee and chocolate would have to go, as well as non-BC wines. For Ontario, we’ll have to eat a lot of root veggies and hydroponics. But no matter...The book is well-written and enjoyable on its own terms: it makes you think. Quality/Price rating: 91. * NEW GOOD FOOD; essential ingredients for cooking and eating well. (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 284 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-750-6, $19.95US paper covers) is by Margaret M. Wittenberg, global VP of Whole Foods Market, where she has worked since 1981. Logrollers include Mollie Katzen and Heidi Swanson, but, really, only Marion Nestle counts here. The book was originally published in 1995; here, it has been extensively revised and expanded. For years it had been a bible for buying, storing and preparing whole foods. There are seven new chapters, including one on whole grains. Grass-fed beef and antibiotic use in meat production is covered, as well as organic labeling and new nutritional findings. She also covers fruits and vegetables, breads, pasta and noodles, beans and lentils, nuts and seeds, oils, poultry and eggs, dairy products, seafood, and seasonings. Just about everything mentioned can be found at the larger health and natural food stores (think: Whole Foods), so that makes the book exceedingly useful. Other useful items include seasonal produce charts and preparation advice. No recipes, but there are cooking guidelines for each product. It is nice to see that the bibliography has very few articles from before 1995. Quality/Price rating: 92. * ONE-DISH VEGETARIAN MEALS; 150 easy, wholesome, and delicious soups, stews, casseroles, stir-fries, pastas, rice dishes, chilies, and more (Harvard Common Press, 2007; distr. National Book Network, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-369-8, $29US hard covers) is by Robin Robertson, cookbook author (she’s written about 14 of them), chef, and vegetarian- cooking instructor. The book collects the best recipes from three earlier works (“Rice & Spice”. “Pasta for All Seasons”, and “The Vegetarian Chili Cookbook”). I assume that one-third of the recipes come from each book. But all courses and forms are covered anyway, including lunches, dinners, workdays and weekends. There are also dairy-free options. Quality/Price rating: 88. * HISTORY IN A GLASS; sixty years of wine writing from Gourmet (Modern Library, 2006, 2007, 376 pages, ISBN 978-0-8129-7194-1, $16.95US paper covers) has been edited by Ruth Reichl, the current editor of Gourmet magazine. It is a companion piece to Endless Feasts, which was a collection of food essays from sixty years of Gourmet. The current book was originally published in 2006 in hard cover; this is the paperback reprint. The seventeen writers here include Gerald Asher and Frank Schoonmaker, who were long time regular columnists. Hugh Johnson, James Beard, Andre L. Simon, and Frederick S. Wildman Jr. are other notables. There’s a lot of American history here, beginning with Repeal and the War. Madeira, pinot noir, Ray Bradbury’s dandelion wine, Oregon, Washington, Chile, Spain, Chianti, sherry and others complete the picture. Well worth a read. Quality/Price rating: 90. * THE BEST LIFE DIET (Simon & Schuster, 2007, 283 pages, ISBN 978-1- 4166-8492-6, $17.50US soft covers) is by Bob Greene, an exercise physiologist and certified personal trainer specializing in fitness, metabolism, and weight loss. He has written 10 other similar life- altering books. This is a paperback reprint of the 2006 hard cover, a monster of a bestseller. It details a diet plan, lifestyle advice, and healthful recipes. This is the guy who helped Oprah Winfrey shed a lot of weight. Here are any menus along with recipes for several weeks’ worth of eating. But don’t forget the exercise. He has metric conversion charts as well. Check out his website www.thebestlife.com for more material. Quality/Price rating: 89. * PASTA PASSION (Quadrille, 2007; distr. Ten Speed, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-84400-449-2, $18.95US paper covers) is by Ursula Ferrigno, a chef, consultant, and food writer who specializes in Italian cuisine. It was originally published in 2003, and has now been revised and re- laid out. The hook here is that pasta is a) a staple, b)a five minute meal, and c)a source of energy complex carbohydrates. She data on pasta shapes (and which sauces are best matches for which shapes) and fresh pasta. 150 recipes range from the basic (spaghetti with red peppers and tomatoes) to the upscale (vincigrassi aperto: open lasagna with cep mushrooms and prosciutto). Topics include light and healthy recipes, make aheads, and everyday, as well as easy and impressive recipes. There are even some dessert recipes (e.g., Neapolitan ricotta tart) which use pasta. Quality/Price rating: 88. * SPICE; recipes to delight the senses (Periplus, 2005, 2007, 273 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0489-9, $39.95US hard covers) is by Christine Mansfield, an Australian chef now working in Covent Garden’s East@West. She is also a cookbook writer, and this is her fourth such book. It was originally published in 1999 and revised and updated in 2005. This is it’s first North American appearance. Aromatics are used from Sri Lanka, Japan, Singapore, Tunisia, China, Thailand and China. It now comes with an introduction by Charlie Trotter. There is an extensive glossary of the major spices in the world, followed by material on dry spice blends (garam masala, curry, berbere, five spice powder (although the Chinese version has six spices, two [anise and fennel] with the same flavour profile), wet spice pastes, condiments, oils, and sauces. The arrangement is apps to desserts. There is a 10 page discussion on matching wines to spices, and this is quite good and useful. She has an international list of spice suppliers and a bibliography; unfortunately, the book listings appear not to have been updated since the 1999 edition. Try pepper sourdough bread; chili cumin dal; eggplant masala; chicken livers with pickled lamb’s tongue, mustard spaghetti and garlic sauce. Quality/Price rating: 89. * THE GLOBAL ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WINE (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2000, 2001, 912 pages plus CD-ROM, ISBN 978-1-891267-38-3, $75US) has been edited by Peter Forrestal. Here are 36 wine experts who cover various regions; they are all named. Tony Aspler deals with Canada. The book was originally published in Australia and was reprinted by the WAG. I have no idea why I was sent a review copy, for the book is neither new nor up-to-date. Yet the book proclaims “Another feature of this massive book is that it is up to date...This book has run to a tight schedule without compromising its integrity.” There are two paragraphs detailing how they cracked the whip in order to keep the book current – but only as of 2000. Hey, there have been tremendous changes since 2000! Good pictures and maps, but shame about the text. To compound the matter, the book was apparently mailed to me at the end of October 2007, but sat in the San Francisco post office until the end of 2007. Ah, well. The one real redeeming value is the CD-ROM which allows for single word searches and contextualizing. Quality/Price ratio: unrated. * COCKTAILS; style recipes (Simon and Schuster, 2005, 2008, 96 pages, ISBN 978-1-4165-7101-8, $15.95US paper covers) is by food and drink writer-editor-author Norman Kolpas. It is a paperback reissue of his 2005 book. There are over 50 easy-to-make drinks, both contemporary and classic, plus tips and ideas for party planning. It has been organized by type of drink and type of occasion, featuring stunning photography. The book concludes with a glossary and an index. Quality/Price rating: 85. * THE INSULIN-RESISTANCE DIET. 2d ed. Rev. and exp. (McGraw-Hill, 2008, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-07-149984-2, $16.95US soft covers) is by Cheryle Hart, M.D., and Mary Kay Grossman, R.D. This book originally came out in 2001, and since then it has sold 150,000 copies. The eating plan here is fully described: how to lose weight by linking carbs and proteins to control blood sugar. Or, as the authors state: “How to turn off your body’s fat-making machine”. The latest info is, of course, incorporated into the text. The authors claim that 95% of their patients successfully lose weight using their plan’s Link-and-Balance Eating Method, self-tests, and food lists. 45 recipes are included, as well as shopping and restaurant strategies. Quality/Price rating: 91. * THE RIVER COTTAGE MEAT BOOK (Hodder & Stoughton, 2004, 2007; distr. McArthur, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-340-82638-6, $29.95 soft covers) is by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, a UK writer and Channel Four broadcaster. He lives at “River Cottage” in Dorset, and fights for real food and meat in England. This is his third cookbook in the River Cottage series. It was published in 2004, and here gets a paperback reprint at a reduced price. The original edition sold 165,000 copies, so lots of people are eating lots of meat. This is a tightly researched, from a British perspective, book on meats such as beef, lamb, pork, poultry, and game. There is a side excursion into offal. 40% of the book is about meat; the rest is about recipes scattered amongst cooking techniques with their own chapters (roasting, slow cooking, fast cooking, barbecuing, preserving and processing, and using leftovers in soups and stocks. There is a bibliography and a British resources list of suppliers. He includes a small section on a dozen mood categories, with page references. So for “Sheer Comfort”, we can have cold roast beef open sandwich, rice pudding pork, daube, beef in stout, Irish stew, red flannel has, spaghetti bolognese, and others. All the dishes we associate with the UK are here, such as steak and kidney pie, jugged hare, roast belly of pork, roast grouse, oxtail stew, pork pie, and roast beef (the full monty, he says). Of course, his shepherd’s pie is made with lamb. Many more details are at www.rivercottage.net. Quality/Price rating: 89. ---------------------------------------------------- AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR DECEMBER 2007 ============================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: WARNING -- PRICE ALERT: All prices are as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. EYEWITNESS COMPANIONS: BEER (DK, 2007, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566- 3155-0, $25 paper covers) has been edited by the late Michael Jackson (he died in August, 2007), the world’s leading writer on beer. He was a multiple-award winning specialist on barley, for he also wrote about whiskies. The book is an “illustrated portable guide to global beers”. Jackson only goes after the best beers and the top producers, and furnishes extensive tasting notes. There’s material on beer styles and history (lager, ale, porter, krieks, etc.), how to taste and enjoy a beer, beer and food matching, and a glossary of terms. That leaves 210 pages for beers of the world. The Czech Republic, Germany, Belgium, and the UK get the most space. Beers are arranged alphabetically within countries. Each brewer gets a name entry, address, website, short history-description, and a tasting note for one or more beer styles. There are 18 breweries listed for Canada, from Amsterdam, Big Rock, Brick, McAuslan, Moosehead, and Wellington among others. Illustrations are colourful, and feature mainly bottles, labels, and adverts. Audience and level of use: beer drinkers who read. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the TN for Bud – “sweet, grainy nose, with green apples, a light balanced body, but without distinct flavours”. The downside to this book: major producers include Budweiser and Miller, and they are here, adding nothing to the book. The upside to this book: comprehensive and illustrative. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE BACON COOKBOOK; more than 150 recipes from around the world for everyone’s favorite food (John Wiley, 2007, 276 pages, ISBN 978-0-470- 04282-3, $41.99 hard covers) is by James Villas, who was the food and wine editor of “Town & Country” magazine for 27 years. He has won 2 Beards for journalism, and has authored innumerable cookbooks. Villas is a specialist in Southern cuisine. The first principle here is that bacon makes every meal better. 168 recipes are claimed here, and they are largely French Provencal, Japanese, and other regions of the world. All courses are covered, such as breakfast, lunch, dinner, and desserts. Artisanal bacons are also covered, but there is nothing on Berkshire pigs, the latest hot hog in North America. Basics are covered, such as how bacon is produced and different international styles from Europe, North America and China (lop yuk). The preps are arranged by course, from apps to desserts. Most use bacon as a substantial ingredient, not just as a flavouring. Both mail order sources and measurements are US only. Audience and level of use: ham and bacon lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: zapallo calabaza; tarte a la flamme; tourtiere; adobo; Serbian bacon, bean, and cabbage soup; Santa Fe venison sausage and Canadian bacon stew; chocolate truffles and peameal bacon. The downside to this book: there are no conversion charts, nor any mention of Berkshire. The upside to this book: a single ingredient book is always welcomed. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS 3. PURE DESSERT (Artisan Books, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 262 pages, ISBN 978-0-1-57965-211-1, $43.95 hard covers) is by Alice Medrich, who opened a dessert shop (Chocolat) in Berkeley thirty years ago. She has written five other books on sweets (three of them major award winners); they have been mainly about chocolate. Here, she broadens her appeal to include other desserts, but still manages to produce recipes for chocolate. She notes that the recipes are simple in tone, with no glazes or frostings, and few fillings. But they are not easy. Her specific instructions include using only whole grains in cookies, making a pound cake with olive oil and sherry, using different cheeses for souffle, using chestnut flour and walnuts for meringues, and generally employing honey and raw sugars to replace refined sugars. She concentrates on developing the flavours behind milk, grains, nuts and seeds, fruit, chocolate, and sugars. She even has a small chapter on alcohol, with beer ice cream, vin santo, kirsch gratin, beer granita, and wine granita. In her discussion on equipment, she compares silicone baking mats versus parchment paper, concluding that usage is “depending on type of batter involved.” Audience and level of use: interested cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almond cake; ricotta and lace; bittersweet brownies; lemon tart; whole wheat sables. The downside to this book: resources list is all US. The upside to this book: most recipes are scaled for weights, in addition to volume measurements. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 4. LYN PETERSON’S REAL LIFE KITCHENS (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 260 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35162-3, $50 hard covers) is the third book by the founder of Motif Designs. She has written two other books on decorating and on renovating. This book purports to be a total guide to renovations or a new building of a kitchen. She has sought and recorded advice from architects, designers, contractors, and families who made the changes. There are 26 case studies and photo shoots. The kitchen is, of course, the main room of the house. This is where the family and the guests (eventually) congregate in these days of super casual dining. And the kitchen is a big ticket item in its cost. Peterson covers the basics of scope, finding people, planning, layouts, selecting appliances, surfaces, cabinetry, lighting, and flooring. There are excellent photos and nifty floor plans. Audience and level of use: good reference book. Some interesting or unusual facts: The number of renos has increased by 50% in the past five years in the United States, and this is probably the same for Canada. The downside to this book: resources are all US-based, but many of them are large companies with offices in Canada. The upside to this book: efficient index. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 5. CRUST; bread to get your teeth into (Kyle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 159 pages plus DVD, ISBN 978-1-904920-64-9, $29.95 hard covers) is by Richard Bertinet, a baker trained in Brittany. He had previously authored “Dough”, which cleaned up in the IACP, Julia Child and James Beard Awards; it too had a DVD. This DVD is about 30 minutes and it demonstrates some of the steps for some of the recipes. This is a sort of volume two, or and “Advanced Dough”. Here he covers thirty breads: bagels, pretzels, blinis, ciabatta, cabernet grape flour bread, sourdoughs, croissant, brioche, Japanese bread crackers, chestnut flour bread, Thai flat bread, gluten-free bread, spelt, and variations. Recipes are scaled and ingredients are expressed in both metric and Imperial measurements. Audience and level of use: those looking for a baking challenge. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the first book sold 1200 copies in Canada, which is quite remarkable. The downside to this book: unfortunately, the DVD holder is dreadful, and the DVD can never be put back. You must store it independently of the book. This flaw happened with his first book too. The upside to this book: conversion tables are also included. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 6. PERFECT PARTIES; tips and advice from a New York party planner (Skyhorse Publishing, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 155 pages, ISBN 978-1-60239-116-1, $23.95 hard covers) is by Linnea Johansson, a NYC party planner. Noted logrollers are Bobby Flay, Marcus Samuelsson, and Laurent Tourondel. Here is “advice for planning a fabulous event”. This author once was the event planner for a party at the Central Park Zoo, for 4000 people. It took a year to organize it...The parties in this book are smaller in scale. The detail is in the planning, with guest lists, budgeting, invitations, dress code, floral arrangements, decorating – right down to napkin folds. Other advice concerns how to network at parties or how to mingle, and creating a book of party memories. Two dozen recipes cover the basics for dinners, buffets, brunches, and hors d’oeuvre. There is some slight material on wines and cocktails. Party themes are discussed, such as a cocktail party, New Year’s Eve, and birthday events. Audience and level of use: party pretenders who might be too inexperienced to try the recipes. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: 24 recipes touch the basics, but why bother cooking this upscale food at all? Get it catered... The downside to this book: no index. And there are too many photos of the author rushing about New York city. The upside to this book: swag bags are covered – in Manhattan, you must give out swag bags to all your guests. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 7. 10,000 DRINKS (Sterling, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 1096 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-4287-3, $23.95 hard covers) is by Paul Knorr, a former bartender who has been collecting recipes for about 20 years. This enormous book should not be handled by the faint of heart, for it may cause you GBH if you dropped it on your foot, especially if you’ve had a few concoctions based on its contents. It is arranged by type; it includes non-alcoholic beverages as well (but only 12 pages worth). The 21 categories scroll through champagne and wine-based drinks, beer, liquor-infused coffees, and iced-teas. Spirits scroll through the flaming, the blenderized, the frozen approach, the coolers, the layered arrangement, and, of course, the classics. Despite 10 or 12 recipes on a page, the print is on the large size. There is the usual stuff about stocking, bar equipment, techniques, and the like. Audience and level of use: beginning bartenders. Some interesting or unusual facts: enticing names for cocktails certainly sell them: Jack Hammer, Tahiti Rainstorm, You Had Me at Hellos, Kiss Down Under. The downside to this book: it begs for a CD or a computerized database approach by keyword. The upside to this book: this big collection thankfully has an index by major ingredient. The binding looks impressive, but just don’t overspread the gutters. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. THE WORLD IN BITE SIZE; tapas, mezze and other tasty morsels (Kyle Cathie, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-721-2, $29.95 paper covers) is by Paul Gayler, a British Executive Chef at The Lanesborough, recipe book author, and multiple TV show personality in the UK. And 9. THE EVERYTHING TAPAS AND SMALL PLATES COOKBOOK (Adams Media, 2007; dist. Canadian Manda Group, 293 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-467-3, $17.95 paper covers) is by Lynette Roher Shirk, a qualified chef who has worked for Wolfgang Puck and has cooked at James Beard House. The number one trend in dining out has been “small plates”, and here two authors give preps for homemade or housemade foods. Gaylor’s book is the more upscale of the two, more on “small plates”. He also drops names such as “cichetti” from Italy, “stuzzicini”, and “botanas” (Mexico) – all meaning smaller sizes. His 130 recipes have coloured illustrations, and are arranged geographically through the Americas, on to Spain, Europe, North Africa and the Middle East, the Spice Route, and the Far East. The same ground is covered by Shirk, but she throws in “pub food” from the UK. There is chaat from India, amuses bouche from France, izakaya and sushi from Japan, dim sum, antojitos, tapas, and mezes. The arrangement is by type of food (cheeses, salads, stews, eggs, potatoes, etc.). Much of what she serves we can call “street foods”. But there are 300 recipes here, more than twice that of Gaynor’s, and there is a tasting menu by country with page references. She also manages to add in wine pairings, with four dishes for each variety of wine (sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, zinfandel, riesling, etc.). Audience and level of use: both books have their appeal to cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from Gaylor, there is calamari with chorizo and salsa verde; monkfish skewers; Peruvian potato cakes; dukkah-crumbed drumsticks; ikra; and Stilton fritters. Shirk’s has potato omelet; taramosalata; pot stickers; shepherd’s pie with beef; curried banana soup; rum raisin meatballs. The downside to this book: Shirk’s book has no metric table of equivalents, while Gaylor manages to use both US (teaspoons) and grams. But he goes have a conversion chart. The upside to this book: Shirk has a tasting menu idea for an antipasto party and an antojito fiesta. Gaylor is more upscale. Quality/Price Rating: for the upscale, Gaynor gets a 88. For variety, Shirk gets an 87. 10. HOW TO COOK EVERYTHING VEGETARIAN; simple meatless recipes for great food (John Wiley, 2007, 996 pages, ISBN 978-0-7645-2483-7, $41.99 hard covers) is by the ubiquitous Mark Bittman, multiple award winning cookbook author (Julia Child, IACP, Beard). Notable logrollers include Bobby Flay and Mario Batali, although at this point I don’t think that Bittman needs logrollers. Here, simple dishes are emphasized, along with tips, advice, cook’s notes, charts, sidebars, and lists. The database is 2000 recipes and variations. It is all straightforward, from apps through desserts, and he embraces meat substitutes such as tofu, and eggs and dairy. There are special icons to identify recipes that can be made in 30-minutes or less, recipes that can be prepped in advance, and vegan recipes. There are also 250 “how to” line drawing illustrations, plus 40 menus (with page references) for every type of occasions. US volume measurements are used, but there is a table of metric equivalents. He concludes with notes on meal planning. Audience and level of use: vegetarian completists, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: frozen honey mousse; wintertime tomato soup; vegetable pancake; caramelized spiced nuts; bean burgers; chili paste eight ways. The downside to this book: he hedges on the value of organic food. He prefers buying local to buying organic. This does not work well in Canada. The upside to this book: there are indexes of recipes by icon; the end pages have useful charts and measurement equivalents, plus a listing of 20 essential vegetarian dishes and 20 essential charts. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 11. LAURA WERLIN’S CHEESE ESSENTIALS; an insider’s guide to buying and serving cheese (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58479-627-5, $29.95 paper covers) is by a James Beard and IACP award- winning cookbook author. This is her fourth book about cheese; she also freelances cheese articles. This is an introductory guide book to the basics of cheese production (different milks used, info on rinds and mold, artisanal cheeses), who to look for when buying, tasting notes and mouthfeels, how to be “cheese-wise”, and raw milk cheeses. There are eight styles of cheese, from fresh and semi-soft through to washed rind and blues. She has 50 recipes, from apps to desserts, with some preps for each of the eight styles of cheese. Illustrations are available for most of the cheeses. Her resources list includes cheese information resources (but none from Canada), small cheese shops (all US), a metric conversion chart, and a glossary. Audience and level of use: interested cheese lovers, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: watermelon, ricotta salata and fresh herb salad; grilled semi-soft cheese and olive sandwich; brie toasts with chardonnay-soaked raisins; manchego, quince paste, and Serrano ham on olive bread; acorn squash with pecorino and Swiss chard. The downside to this book: nothing on Canada except for two from Quebec (e.g., Oka) The upside to this book: there are many lists, including cheese blogs on the Internet. There is a recipe index in addition to a general index. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 12. BREWING CLASSIC STYLES; 80 winning recipes anyone can brew (Brewer Publications, 2007; distr. National Book Network, 317 pages, ISBN 978- 0-937381-92-2, $21 paper covers) is by Jamil Zainasheff and John J. Palmer. Jamil has won almost every prize going in the American Homebrewers Association’s National Homebrew Competition; these are his recipes. Palmer contributes material about beer ingredients, tips on brewing, and recipe adjustments. The brews range from light lager to smoke-flavoured and wood-aged beers. There are some 22 categories plus specialty beers such as Black Forest stout, made with cherries and chocolate adjuncts. The techniques include proper yeast pitching and starters, steeping, partial mashing, and technical tables. There is even a table for those beer styles categorized according to the level of effort to brew them. Thus, for beginners, there are recipes for American-styled beers, brown porter, Scottish beers, and sweet stout. The advanced homebrewer gets to play with gueuze, IPA, schwarzbier, and Vienna lager. Audience and level of use: this is not for those who just use cans. The downside to this book: some glossary entries are not very helpful. For example, the definition of “brettanomyces” has no description of the flavours or aromas. The upside to this book: these are specific and precise recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 13. THE LITTLE BLACK APRON; a single girl’s guide to cooking with style & grace (Polka Dot Press, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 246 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-206-8, $17.95 paper covers) is by the trio of nutritionist Jodi Citrin, marketer Melissa Gibson, and chef Katie Nuanes. The book automatically wins the award for best food book title of 2007, riffing off as it does against the little black dress. This is a book for the beleaguered single (mostly female, but actually it could be male too) who needs a guide to how the kitchen operates. There are witty commentaries and anecdotes, as well as solutions to healthy and simple cooking. Their material covers essential utensils, pantry staples, grocery shopping, cooking techniques, and entertaining tips for both a crowd (brunches, dinners) and for dates. 35 menus and 100 recipes are presented for single servings for weeknights (Sunday through Thursday, although Thursday is fast becoming part of the weekend), covering mains, sides, salads and desserts, plus the inevitable variations. Recipes can be dressed up or dressed down, and both styles can be paired as in “mix and match.” This is basic chick food: no heavy sauces or thick meats, and with only one BBQ recipe for burgers. Each recipe has a list of nutrients and cooking accessories needed, and you are encouraged to fill yourself with antioxidants, calcium, fibre, folate, low-fat, whole grains, and omega 3-6-9s. US volume measurements are employed, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: beginners, self-effacing cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tomato-avocado-corn salad; sesame baby bok choy; roasted golden beets with goat cheese and hazelnuts; pork chops with figs and honey; seared chicken breast with almond-olive relish; mushroom ragout and spinach frittata with goat cheese. The downside to this book: no wine recommendations, which I should think would be absolutely essential when entertaining or dating. Also, too much pink ink was used. Now really... The upside to this book: this is the KISS approach to timing, organizing and prep work. The book has both a recipe index and a topical index. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 14. THE DEFINITIVE CANADIAN WINE & CHEESE COOKBOOK (Whitecap, 2007, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-896-7, $35 paper covers) is by chef-writer Gurth Pretty and wine-writer Tony Aspler, both well-known to Canadian food and wine people. This is Pretty’s second book on cheese. And it delves into more international types. The basics are covered (types of milk, how produced, raw and pasteurized, styles, buying and storing, serving). He goes on to describe how to make a great cheese board. Aspler goes into the principles of wine and cheese matching. The wine and cheese charts have Canadian pairings (Canadian cheese and Canadian wine) and international pairings. There are two concepts going on here: the cheese board and cooking with cheese. The 100 recipes are arranged by course, such as brunch, lunch, hors d’oeuvre, appetizers, mains, sides, and desserts. Each has a suggested Canadian cheese and producer to use, with international variations. Both metric and Imperial measurements are employed for the ingredients. Pretty indicates prep times, coking times, and service numbers. Aspler makes both red and white table wine suggestions (including apple wine), but he also recommends fizzy stuff too where needed, such as sparkling wine and beer. Audience and level of use: cheese lovers who want to cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted garlic and double cheddar bread (full-bodied white, Tavel, or Belgian beer); breakfast polenta with fresh cheese (full-bodied white, medium-bodied red, real ale); broccoli potage with soft bloomy rind cheese (medium-bodied white, dry sherry); St. Lawrence seafood fondue using soft, bloomy rind cheese (light white, Tavel, sparkler, fino sherry, Czech pilsner, or vodka). The downside to this book: I think that I would have been a lot happier if the title was simply “The Definitive Wine and Cheese Cookbook”. I am not sure what “swiss” cheese is, but apparently we make it in Quebec, and it is not gruyere or emmenthaler in style, according to the notes provided. The upside to this book: there are actual Canadian wine recommendations. Quality/Price Rating: 88. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 15. DISH ENTERTAINS; everyday simple to special occasions (HarperCollins, 2007, 247 pages, ISBN 978-0-00-200772-6, $44.95 hard covers) is by Trish Magwood, owner of dish cooking school and Food Network chef. It comes with an endorsement by Linda Haynes, cofounder of ACE Bakery. This is basic stylish entertaining, with no sit down dinners. There are two categories – everyday simple weekday, and special occasions. The emphasis here is a collection of passarounds or buffets. She has a tapas and cocktail party (with guidelines for quantities) and a family- style dinner gathering from serving platters. She passes along many caterer’s tips and tricks, as well as time saving techniques. The range is from appetizers to desserts, and many preps have been on her “Party Dish” TV show. The 115 recipes call for special equipment that you may not need to use otherwise, but if you are in the catering game, then they are essential. Her dishes include balsamic pesto chicken, mocha tortoni mousse, smoked trout and avocado, and soup shooters. But one of her photos of pancetta looks suspiciously like prosciutto, and there is a consistent misspelling of “hors d’oeuvre” – it’s not pluralized. But there are both Imperial and metric measurements used in the ingredients listings, a plus. Her website is www.dishcookingstudio.com which has Magwood’s schedule and a bevy of other recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 16. CRESCENT CITY COOKING; unforgettable recipes from Susan Spicer’s New Orleans (Knopf, 2007, 405 pages, ISBN 978-1-4000-4389-7, $44 hard covers) is from Chef Spicer who owns two restos in New Orleans: Bayona (in the French Quarter) and Herbsaint (on St.Charles). Paula Disbrowe, a chef and a food writer, is the focusing co-author. Notable log rollers include Lidia Bastianich (“dazzles the palate”), Mario Batali (“sense of place and tradition”), and Daniel Boulud (“exciting and original recipes”). This is Southern cooking meets Creole/Cajun, expressed through 175 recipes. Most dishes come from her restaurants. There is a sources list for mail orders (all US) and an extensive index, with initial letters highlighted in red. Typical dishes include pickled shrimp, Bayou chicken wings (actually, frog legs), Mexican green gazpacho with shellfish, crayfish pies, and gumbos. There are also quite a few “international dishes” (e.g. pork sate, Asian noodle salad, and the like) that seem a bit out of place in a New Orleans book. At the end, there is a large cocktail section. The recipes are printed on coloured paper, which makes it difficult to photocopy, and sometimes to even read. The ingredients are expressed in US volume measurements, but there are no tables of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 17. ASIAN FLAVORS OF JEAN-GEORGES (Broadway Books, 2007, 290 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-1273-0, $50 hard covers) is by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, founder of eponymous establishments such as JoJo and Vong, Jean-Georges, plus several others such as Spice Market, Rama (in London), more in Shanghai and Las Vegas. He spends most of his time developing recipes and overseeing his empire of 18 restaurants. For this book, to have more Asian credibility, log rollers include Asian chefs Nobu Matsuhisa (owner of restos Nobu and Matsuhisa, “ingenious combinations”) and Toronto’s own Susur Lee (owner of Susur and Lee, “unique and nuanced food palette of taste sensations”). Hmmm...There must be something about these chefs who name restos after all of their first, middle (if any), and last names! His book is pan-Asian, and reflects the recipes at Vong, 66, and Spice Market (the latter deals with Asiatic street food). The 175 recipes are arranged from apps to desserts: cold sesame noodles, lobster summer rolls, ribbons of tuna with ginger marinade, corn and crab soup, avocado and radish salad with onion tempura, squab with egg noodle pancake. The ingredients are expressed in US volume measurements, but there are no tables of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 18. NIGELLA EXPRESS; good food fast (Knopf, 2007, 390 pages, ISBN 978- 0-676-97976-3, $50 hard covers) is by Nigella Lawson, a food goddess with a popular series of TV shows and books (“Nigella Bites”, “Feast”, “Forever Summer”). The bumpf alliteratively describes this book as “featuring fabulous fast foods”. There are the usual short cuts (expressed with flair) and time-saving ideas. The basic rule for speedy food is to make every single ingredient earn its place in the composition: “minimize effort by maximizing taste”. And, also, there is minimum stress for maximum enjoyment (also, just turn off your cell phone). The layout is superb, and thank God it has metric weights and measures for the listed ingredients. There is material on party presentations, speedy suppers, quick breakfasts, calming food, holiday quickies, pantry and larder storage items. Basic quality stuff includes only organic eggs, unsalted butter, fresh herbs, infused oils, and dark 70% chocolate. Try breakfast bruschetta, chopped ceviche, lamb shanks with beans, butternut and sweet potato soup, and lamb tagine. It is quality food in a quality book (it even comes with a ribbon bookmarker!) but the price is sticky for a “fast food” book. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 19. THE ART OF SIMPLE FOOD (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 406 pages, ISBN 978- 0-307-33679-8, $44 hard covers) is by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse fame. She shares co-authorship with Patricia Curtan, Kelsie Kerr, and Fritz Streiff, who are never actually identified in the book. Curtan is given two credits: one for the illustrations, and one for the design. There are 19 culinary “lessons” and foundation approaches for starting from scratch (how to make fresh pasta, do a risotto, sauteeing, grilling, making omelets, making custards, etc.). This is part one. The second part is a collection of 250 recipes for cooking everyday (sauces, salads, soup, pasta, breads, eggs, cheese, veggies, flesh, and desserts). Her principles are simple, and have been influenced by Richard Olney and Elizabeth David from the 1960s: eat locally, eat sustainably, eat seasonally, shop at farmers’ markets, plant a garden, compost and recycle, cook simply, and others. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 20. CIOPPINO’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL; a lifetime of excellence in the kitchen (Douglas & McIntyre, 2007, 234 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-251-9, $60 hard covers) is by Pino Posteraro, owner-chef since 1999 of this restaurant and Cioppino’s Enoteca, both in Vancouver. These high end restos emphasize Mediterranean fusion cuisine. The 100 recipes here come from the restaurant, adapted for the home cook. The reference section includes sauces, flavoured oils, pasta dough, confit vegetable preps, and the like. The oversize book is very heavy, and you might want to photocopy any recipes before rolling up your sleeves. There is a memoir section (with photos) and a strange page about sous-vide cooking (which he does in the restaurant), but then says no one should do it at home. Yet the book is meant for home cooking. The term is not indexed. Metric weights and measures are used throughout, which is an excellent sign of a careful cook. Instructions are explicit, with service and prep times. Suggested wines are mostly Pacific Northwest and Italian, although there are some French and Chilean picks. Unfortunately, he is quite explicit about label names and vintage years, and only gives one wine per dish instead of a range of choices to accommodate the reader’s local market. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 21. PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINING AND DINING; the people, places, food, and drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 270 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-74685-0, $41.99 hard covers) is by Braiden Rex-Johnson, a food editor who has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for more than 15 years. Here, in this part travel part cookbook, she takes us to a variety of restaurants, arranged by region or state. The dedicated space is roughly a third each for Washington, Oregon, and BC, with 15 pages on Idaho. There is a listing of wine and food festivals in the area. The idea of Northwest cuisine is basically paired with the wine culture. Seafood, lamb and fruit play prominent roles. There is good material here on food and wine matching. Recipes are cited as to source, with the names and addresses and websites of the restos. The 113 recipes, even for BC, have US volume measurements and no metric tables of equivalents. There are really nice colour photos, including one of the dimples on the outside of a stainless-steel wine tank. From BC, we have recipes from Feenie’s, Araxi, C, Sooke Harbour House, Tinhorn Creek, and others. It’s about time we had a book like this for the Niagara Frontier-Finger Lakes regions. Quality/Price Rating: 89. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR OCTOBER 2007 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: WARNING -- PRICE ALERT: All prices are as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. GUINNESS; the 250-year quest for the perfect pint (John Wiley, 2007, 250 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-12052-1, $29.99 hard covers) is a business narrative written by Bill Yenne, a beer journalist living in San Francisco. He has written almost 40 books on a variety of historical topics. Plus six more on beer. This book was originally subtitled: “the story of the world’s greatest beer”, but better minds prevailed. But this book has been described as a perfectly poured history of the world’s most famous beer. And that’s 2 billion perfectly poured (one would hope) pints EACH YEAR. This is a mixture of Irish history and the biography of a family, compellingly told over a 250 year frame. Arthur Guinness became a brewer at age 30. His son and namesake came up with the winning formula. His son (grandson Benjamin) became the richest man in Ireland selling stout. It was Benjamin who built the family business into the beer juggernaut, the largest single brewery in the world. In addition to history and biography, this book is also the story of beer technology and craftsmanship. Yenne has drawn from two basic source documents, Patrick Lynch’s “Guinness Brewery in the Irish Economy, 1759-1876” and S.R. Dennison’s “Guinness 1886-1939”. Particularly useful is the story of the 1986 innovation to help form the characteristic smooth and creamy head, for an authentic Guinness every time; it is now used in every bottle and can sold. There is a copious bibliography and a very useful index. Audience and level of use: corporate history lovers, erudite beer drinkers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Guinness Extra Stout is the closest to the Guinness Porter originally brewed by Arthur Guinness now available. But it has less than five per cent of all Guinness sales worldwide. Guinness Draught has almost completely replaced it. The downside to this book: is “widget” the only name for the device that issues nitrogen to preserve the draught element? The upside to this book: there are some good black and white illustrations from the archives. Quality/Price Rating: 91. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE OXFORD COMPANION TO ITALIAN FOOD (Oxford University Press, 2007, 637 pages, ISBN 978-0-19-860617-8, $39.95 hard covers) is by Gillian Riley, a food historian who makes major contributions to the Oxford Symposium on Food, and author of “Renaissance Recipes” and the National Gallery Cookbook. She’s assisted by five contributors, including Anna del Conte and Carol Field, but she’s done the bulk of the detail work, including the writing of all the unsigned articles. There are 900 articles here, in an A – Z setup for all of the entries (and no recipes). Major categories of topics include: history, society, culture, variety of cuisine, myths, dishes and prepared foods, ingredients (e.g., seafood, sweets, vegetables, herbs, meats, pasta), delicacies, cooking methods, culinary terms, implements, regional specialties (e.g. Emilia-Romagna), baked goods (amaretti, bruschetta, cornetto, panettone), cheeses. There are 75 biographies of important Italians, mainly chefs. She has some good clarifying notes on the differences between emmer wheat (farro) and spelt. Unfortunately, there is not much on wine or on other beverages – probably outside her scope. The index has large type; it is extensive with copious cross- references. And there are internal cross-references as well, where appropriate. Headwords stand out clearly. She provides a long and up- to-date bibliography. Basic question: why start with Italian food? Why not French food? Just asking... Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers, librarians, hospitality schools, food reference book collectors. Some interesting or unusual facts: Ciabatta is very recent. Its dough was described in 1985 by Carol Field as “utterly unfamiliar and probably a bit scary”. The downside to this book: not really a downside, but how far along is Oxford going with all of its Companion series? In Food and Drink alone they can mine the field with at least 100 titles. The one map of Italy is a puny black and white affair. And there are the occasional errors of pagination in the index (e.g., emmer wheat). The upside to this book: there are small, occasional black and white photos which are informative. She also manages to cover mediaeval cookbooks, and food in Renaissance paintings. Quality/Price Rating: 95 (great price, even cheaper on Amazon.Ca) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS 3. GOOD SPIRITS; recipes, revelations, refreshments, and romance, shaken and served with a twist (Harvard Common Press, 2007; distr. National Book Network, 484 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-336-0, $35.95 hard covers) is by A.J. Rathbun, an author of party food and drink, and a poet. He currently runs the Kitchen and Housewares store at Amazon.com. The 450 recipes here have all the classics for the main spirit categories: martini (and variations), shooters, icy drinks, blender drinks, hot drinks. Reference data includes the basic bar setup, glassware, mixers, garnishes, and practical tips. He has good background data on such as different types of bitters, small batch bourbons, and the best cocktails. There are 24 of these: the alexander, the bloody mary, the champagne cocktail, the daiquiri, the gibson, the mai tai, gimlet, manhattan, margarita, mojito, old fashioned, mint julep, screwdriver, etc. He has lots of notes for each drink. And almost everything else is a variation. Audience and level of use: home mixologists. The downside to this book: a bit of redundancy with other cocktail books. The upside to this book: there are metric conversion charts and great pictures, almost gastroporn. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. SAUCES (Ryland Peters Small, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 96 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-483-1, $19.95 hard covers) is by Louise Pickford, a Brit food writer who now writes from Australia. She has authored 20 or so cookbooks. Here are 70 sweet and savoury recipes, of all the basic types of thickened, reduced, emulsified, pureed, and enriched. There are also dressings, salsas, aioli, dips and new twists on pasta sauces. She starts with the classics and then riffs to the variations. With some culinary knowledge and some imagination, you too can turn a sauce into a soup into a stew, and so forth. US volume measurements are used throughout. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted bell pepper butter sauce, chile caramel sauce, agrodulce sauce, gorgonzola-pecan- mascarpone sauce. The downside to this book: recipe procedures are in a smaller type font than the rest of the book, and this looks out of place. The upside to this book: metric conversion charts. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. HIP TASTES; the fresh guide to wine (Viking Studio, 2007; distr. Penguin, 303 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-200519-4, $21.50 paper covers) is by Courtney Cochran, a certified sommelier working in San Francisco. She has the flair of Toronto’s own Zoltan Szabo. Hmmm....This is a quick review book, with lots to memorize if you want to be profound. The book is meant for a young audience. Hip vocabulary is used, and the style is anecdotal. Tips and advice abound: how not to get ripped off in restaurants, food and wine matches for simple flavours, label essentials, phonetics for difficult-to-pronounce wine terms, best wines for a party, hip producers in hip regions, and the like. You can check out hiptastes.com for more ideas. Her appendices present a list of Euro wines named for places (e.g. Bordeaux), a phonetic guide, a region and vintage guide (plus an indication of values), and a list of US retailers and wine festivals. Audience and level of use: new and young wine drinkers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: small pours and tastes in restaurants are all the rage, the ultimate booze grazing. You should be able to ask the restaurant to do this, from their open bottles. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 6. THE APPLE; a history of Canada’s perfect fruit (McArthur and Company, 2007, 161 pages, ISBN 978-1-55278-679-6, $24.95 paper covers) is by Carol Martin, a former publisher and editor, once with the Canada Council, and now a full-time gardener. She had previously authored books about rural Ontario, including “A History of Canadian Gardening”. This is a straight ahead account of the history of apples in Canada, beginning with Champlain and his saplings in Quebec City up through Sir George Simpson (HBC) and apple seeds out west. And then into the 20th century. Cultivated apples, she says, were a success in Canada because of their sweet and healthy addition to a boring diet. They were better than the native crabapples. They can be dried for year-long eating; they can be used for cider (both hard and soft) as a liquid refreshment. Any wastage could be composted. Canadian apples have long been exported to both the United States and Europe. Martin has provided great photos from the past, focusing on orchards, people, and named varieties. She has a dozen recipes from diverse named sources, but only a handful of apples are best for cooking (cortland, spy, mutsu, gravenstein, ida red). It is just too bad that the apple “industry” is tanking, especially so in the drink area (Chinese imports). There is a bibliography and some end notes. Audience and level of use: apple lovers everywhere, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: there are 2,000 named cultivars growing in Canada, but fewer than two dozen of these names are recognizable. The downside to this book: for a Canadian book, it needs a metric table of equivalents. The upside to this book: the illustrations are very good. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 7. THE SKI HOUSE COOKBOOK; warm winter dishes for cold weather fun (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-33998-0, $38 hard covers) is by Tina Anderson and Sarah Pinneo. Both are avid skiers. The 125 winter recipes are useful anywhere, but should be applicable to the ski runs. There is a technical section on high altitude cooking, which of course is needed since most runs are in the mountains, and a section on slow cooking (what to do while you are ON the slopes). Other reference matter concerns the stocking of the pantry and larder. The main schtick of the book is that each recipe is coded with a difficulty rating that corresponds to the slopes’ green dots, blue squares, and black diamonds. Their contents embrace apres-ski snacks, breakfasts, fast foods, lunches, hearty soups, pastas, and hot beverages. Audience and level of use: skiers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fondues, French toast, granolas, muffins, ham and cheddar strata, turkey and brie sandwiches with apple, black bean quesadillas. The downside to this book: for a book which can be used in Europe and Canada, there are only US volume measurements here, with no metric tables of equivalents. The upside to this book: this situational cookbook is useful. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 8. CHOCOLATE; deliciously indulgent recipes for chocolate lovers (Ryland, Peters, & Small, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1- 84597-463-3, $30.95 hard covers) is by prolific British food writer Maxine Clark. She covers the basics and the types of chocolates in 12 pages, with a couple of pages on the “future” (fair trade, organic, etc.). There are 90 recipes plus variations, all with excellent photography. Chapter headings include cakes, cookies, tarts and pies, hot desserts, chilled deserts, truffles and candy, and drinks. US volume measurements are used, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Clark also has a list of websites and mail order firms. Audience and level of use: chocolate lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: warm chocolate muffins, chocolate and banana bread, devil’s food cake, chocolate almond pithiviers. The upside to this book: this is an upscale book for classy preps. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 9. THE COOK’S BOOK; concise edition. (DK, 2007, 496 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7566-3231-1 $36 hard covers) has been compiled by Jill Norman, renowned award-winning UK cookery author and editor (she did Elizabeth David’s classic cookbooks, and is now responsible for her Estate’s writings). It was originally published in 2005 at $65 for 648 pages. The concise edition is a bit smaller in physical size (only 7 5/8 inches by 9 ¼ inches) and the number of pages. It originally had 18 contributors, but now it is just 13. And there are no explanations either. Rick Bayless (Mexican food) is gone, as is Ferran Adria of El Bulli; he has taken his 12 pages of foams with him. This cooking resource details about 350 techniques through individual chapters crafted by cookbook authors Ken Hom (Chinese), Charlie Trotter (fish, vegetables), and 11 others in 19 chapters arranged by course and product and region. There is only one woman, Christine Mansfield, from Australia. 1600 colour photos accompany the text and the almost 600 recipes, and they take you step- by-step through the processes. Most of the food is Oriental, French, Italian, and Indian. Both US volume and metric measurements are employed in each recipe, a decided plus and a definite improvement on the original book. You can try pan-grilled mackerel with orange romanesco; chilled Moscato-pineapple zabaglione; hare in red wine; eggplant and zucchini and Parmigiano tortino. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 10. WINDOWS ON THE WORLD COMPLETE WINE COURSE, 2008 revision (Sterling, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 340 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-5141-7, $29.95) is by Kevin Zraly, an award winning wine expert and long-time sommelier of that late, lamented restaurant atop the World Trade Center. This has been newly revised and expanded, with 16 pages of new material on how to taste wine. Indeed, it has even come down three dollars in price! It has frequently been revised since its first edition in 1985. Now it has been redesigned in layout, and with more recommendations in his tour of the latest vintages. Over 20,000 students have taken Zraly's courses and workshops. This is the text that comes with the courses, and as such, it serves as a suitable book for almost any introductory wine course. It certainly does address the needs of students and beginners: the style-format is "question and answer", on what wine is, tasting wine (how to taste wine over sixty seconds), wine service at home and in restaurants, storage and cellaring. He avoids the markup controversies in restaurants; however, one can compare a number of different sections and conclude that he favours 3 to 4 times the wholesale price. The bulk of the arrangement is by "classes", with ones for white wine, red wines, champagne, fortified, and wines from outside France and the United States -- still in the Q & A format, augmented by a continuous stream of sidebars and tidbits which extend the answers. Throughout, too, there are full- colour reproductions of wine labels. The book concludes with a glossary and a pronunciation key, as well as bibliographic notes for further reference reading. Quality/Price Rating: 90, 11. THE DEVIL IN THE KITCHEN; the autobiography (Orion Books, 2006, 2007; distr. McArthur, 309 pages, ISBN 978-0-7528-8161-4, $18.95 paper covers) is the life story of Marco Pierre White, the first of the bad boy chefs, and a virtual unknown in North America. There are claims that he made cooking sexy, he had a legendary temper in the kitchen, and some of his customers were thrown out of his restaurant. In general, he was described as “rude”. That’s putting it mildly. He was the first British chef to win three Michelin stars. A compelling point in his life was the death of his mother, when he was just six. There’s enough stress and toil in this book to avoid reading it while eating or trying to fall asleep. Certainly not while on the potty. You need to read what he has to say about restaurant reviewers and critics. There is, amazingly enough for this type of book, an index, a few black and white photos, but no recipes – just the kitchen stories. This is a good read. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 12. WORLD ATLAS OF WINE. Completely revised and updated, sixth edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 400 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-301-0, $75 hard covers) is now by the team of Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson. It first came out in 1971, and the latest edition in 2001 brought Robinson on board. Sales have exceeded four million copies, and it is available in 13 languages. It has been the most successful of all wine books of all time. The six years between editions have seen immense changes. There are now 48 extra pages, 17 new colour illustrations, 20 new maps, and – for the first time – double page spreads and full-page photos in the atlas section for “maximum visual impact”. New World coverage has been extended for both Australia and South America. BUT -- B.C. continues to get a couple of hundred words and a sketch map, and Ontario still gets its own page. Ontario was called “Canada” in the last edition, but the entry really only covered Ontario. B.C. was sited with the Pacific Northwest, where it still remains. So what are we, chopped liver? Icewine? What’s that?? Still, the book is a must buy. Quality/Price Rating: 92. 13. EASY BREAKFAST & BRUNCH; simple recipes for morning treats (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-485- 5, $24.95 hard covers) is a collection of 124 recipes culled from various food writers in this publisher’s stable: Louise Pickford, Fran Warde, Linda Collister, Elsa Petersen-Schepelern, and 13 others. There are a slew of 23 photographers too. It is all matter-of-fact, emphasizing the easy, being one of a series. The emphasis is on “lazy weekends”, so you might not want to get up early during the weekdays to try many of these dishes. Chapters are labeled fruit and oats, sweet treats, easy eggs, fresh from the oven, perfect preserves, delicious drinks. Not much text: just the recipes, with a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 14. THE MARTHA STEWART LIVING COOKBOOK; the new classics (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 704 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-39383-8, $44 hard covers) is from the magazine of the same name as the title. It is a companion volume to the first book, “The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook; the original classics”. As a bonus, the current book includes an index to BOTH volumes. It presents more than 1,200 of the “best” recipes that have appeared in the magazine since 2000. So “new” in this sense means new to publication, not “new dishes” or new cutting edge recipes. As an all-purpose book, the range is broad, from casual to formal, from two to 10 diners. There are plenty of variations and substitutions here. The editors have 22 categories of recipes, from starters to cookies and candy. As well, there are drinks, sauces and dips, and basic material on techniques, health choices, pantry and equipment. There are photos of techniques, glossaries, food and equipment sources, a directory of stores, and the combined index (two colours for the font, one for “original” and one for “new”. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 15. OLIVE OIL; from tree to table (Chronicle Books, 1997, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 167 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6176-2, $24.95 paper covers) is by Peggy Knickerbocker, a longtime San Francisco and Paris-based food writer, and author of cookbooks. It was originally published in 1997, and is now available as a paperback. It covers Greece, Italy, North Africa, and California, with little on Spain or Portugal – two countries what have grown immensely in the past ten years. Still, the book is a treasure trove of ideas with 112 recipes utilizing olive oil. US weights and measures are employed, but there are metric conversion tables. She has all the basics (buying, storing, tasting olive oil, cultural history, and so forth). Some preps include pinzimonio (fresh veggies dipped in olive oil), Provencal garlic soup, North Beach baccala with potatoes and red onions, fettuccine with asparagus and fava beans, and dried fig breakfast bread. There’s a bibliography (not updated) and a sources of supply list (which may or may not be updated; I don’t know because it is all American). Quality/Price Rating: 86. 16. THE EVERYTHING BARTENDER’S BOOK, 2nd ed. (Adams Media, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 307 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-590-8, $11.95 paper covers) is by Cheryl Charming, a bartender with a prolific writing pattern about cocktails. This book is described as “700 recipes for classic and mixed drinks, trendy shots, and non-alcoholic alternatives”. It was first published in 1995. So it has now been revised, updated and expanded. There are 150 new recipes and a drink index. The price has not gone up in 12 years. The basics here include the history of the cocktail, Bartending 101, equipment (glasses, tools) and mixers, and a FAQ for the designated driver. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 17. MADE IN ITALY (Ecco, 2007, distr. HarperCollins, 623 pages, $59.95 hard covers) is a fat book by Giorgio Locatelli (with Sheila Keating) of UK’s Locanda restaurant. It was originally published in the UK by Fourth Estate in 2006; this is its North American debut. This is part of the Slow Food movement, with traditional recipes (about 200 of them) using DOP and IGP food where possible. The introductory text has material about the state of Italian food today, and there are full-size portrait pictures of farmers, chefs and cooks. Two ribbon bookmarks complete the package. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 18. AMBITIOUS BREW; the story of American beer (Harcourt, 2006, 2007, 432 pages, ISBN 978-0-15-603359-6, $16.95 paper covers) is by Maureen Ogle. It was first published in 1006; this is the paperback reprint. Ogle is an historian who has written other books. The history ranges from the autocratic Germans Pabst, Schlitz, and Busch to the microbreweries of yesterday. Along the way there is material on the temperance movement and Prohibition, as well as historical archival pictures and advertisements. This is a straight ahead account, along with sourced end notes and extensive bibliography. Quality/Price rating: 90. 19. HOLIDAY CELEBRATION COOKBOOK; complete menus and easy recipes for a full year of festivities (Shady Oak Press, 2002, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-58159-346-4, $17.95 paper covers) is a collection of 20 complete menus, with 100 recipes. There are also instructions on how to make decorations. The major holidays include Hanukkah and Valentine’s Day, as well as Russian Easter, Halloween, a kids’ Christmas party, and a make-ahead holiday buffet – good for any time of the year. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 20. VEGETARIAN COOKING FOR EVERYONE (Broadway Books, 1997, 742 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679-2747-5, $50 hard covers) is by Deborah Madison. It was originally published in 1997, and it had won both a Beard and a Child book award. This is being promoted as its “tenth anniversary edition”. Nothing has changed, although the food world has changed in the past 10 years. Madison acknowledges this in a brisk introduction. If you have the original book, then there is no need to buy this one, except as a gift or replacement copy. The price has gone up $2 in ten years, but it may drop since the US dollar is now at parity and the price was announced back in April. And you can always buy it online at a cheaper price, cheaper than ten years ago. Quality/Price rating: unrated, but 94 for first time purchase. 21. THE COMPLETE BORDEAUX: the wines, the chateaux, the people (Mitchell Beazley, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 720 pages, ISBN 978-1-84000-980-4, $69 hard covers) is by Stephen Brook. Most of the text was released last year in the “Classic Wine Library” series, at $46, and with no pictures, in 528 pages. This library format is quite well-known by now: a basic layout of serviceable sketch-maps, no pictures, and lots of capsule histories and tasting notes for each property described. But the publisher has seen fit to reissue that text on Medoc and Graves, added material on the Right Bank (Pomerol and St.Emilion, more material on Sauternes, and even more material on the satellite areas around (the various Cotes, Entre deux Mers, etc.). Plus, of course, some plates of coloured photographs. Here is insider information on Bordeaux, The introductory material includes chapters on the land (terroir), grapes, and wine styles. The main arrangement is by region. The directory data includes names and numbers, websites, owners, size, production and grape varieties. Then, the narrative style embraces a mini-history with tasting notes. There is an appendix with comments on the various vintages, 1961-2006, a glossary, and a bibliography. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 22. SIX THOUSAND YEARS OF BREAD; its holy and unholy history (Skyhorse Publishing, 2007, 399 pages, ISBN 978-1-60239-124-6, $17.95 paper covers) is by H. E. Jacob, and it was written in 1944. This is a chronology of bread and its role through time in politics, religion, technology, etc. Award-winning baker and author Peter Reinhart contributes an essay which places it all into context. There is a bibliography, but it only goes up to 1943, of course. Reinhart describes the work as anecdotal; I could also call it engaging, and well-worth the reading. Questions: did bread cause the defeat of Napoleon? What was the importance of the Greek bread goddess, Demeter? How did bread contribute to the outbreak of WWI? Quality/Price Rating: 86. 23. REAL BARBECUE; the classic barbecue guide to the best joints across the USA – with recipes, porklore, and more! (Globe Pequot Press, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 331 pages, ISBN 978-0-7627-4442-8, $21 paper covers) has been collated by Vince Staten and Greg Johnson. This is a part travel guide and part recipe book, with details about 100 or more BBQ joints across the USA. The first edition of this book was in 1988. Each place gets a description, black and white photos, a rating, location and website. It is arranged by region, beginning, of course, with the US South, and then moving to the North, the Midwest, and the West. There is a section on BBQ festivals, types of grills, backyard BBQ, 11 secret sauces (but no dry rubs), and side dishes. Unfortunately, none of the recipes or ingredients is indexed, but they can be easily perused. Scattered throughout are tidbits about pork (called “porklore”).The book concludes with a list of mail order sources. The authors claim to have visited over 700 BBQ spots in the US – that’s a lot of eating. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 24. THE SOTHEBY’S WINE ENCYCLOPEDIA; the classic reference to the wines of the world, 4th edition rev. (DK, 2007, 664 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566- 3164-2, $60 hard covers) is by prolific wine writer Tom Stevenson. The first edition was in 1988, and Stevenson has done a remarkable job in chronicling the changes over the years. But what’s strange is that this book was called the “4th edition fully updated” when it last came out in 2005. Here it is described as “4th edition revised”: what’s the difference? The PR sheets say “5th edition”. So what gives? There are seven copyright dates listed, so this has got to be the “7th edition”. Stevenson admits in his introduction that this is just a minor revision dealing with just wine producers, new appellations, and recent vintage assessments....His book is arranged geographically, covering all the wine-growing areas, history and reputation. There are new useful maps and photos. There are sections on all the factors affecting taste and quality. Stevenson authors many profiles of important producers, giving assessments of individual wines. He also has a section on enjoying wines, including wine tasting; wine and food, star ratings, taste charts to profile flavours, flaws in wines, and vintage charts back to 1967 in general, with earlier mentions for key years. He even has some detail about regional oak varieties with illustrated close-ups of the grain. The book concludes with a glossary and an extensive index. Most of the changes are devoted to New World wines (California, New Zealand, and Australia). Stevenson gives detailed coverage of the whole world and 6000 wineries are recommended; he is also a good writer. Canada gets six pages, covering 25 Ontario wineries and 24 in BC, plus Nova Scotia and Quebec, with up-to-date notes. There is an “author’s choice” section which lists the best wines, with a lengthy description and aging ability. Quality/Price Rating: 92. 25. BRINGING ITALY HOME (Mitchell Beazley, 2001, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84000-921-7, $23.95 paper covers) is the paper back reprint, now available in Canada. Ursula Ferrigno, the author, has produced a meatless Italian cookbook, following on her successful “Truly Italian”. Traditional seafood and vegetarian recipes are sourced around the seasons. For each major ingredient, she tells how the Italians like to prepare it. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 26. TRADITIONAL BRITISH COOKING; simple recipes for classic British food (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-487-5, $24.95 hard covers) is a collection of 111 recipes culled from various food writers in this publisher’s stable: Louise Pickford, Fran Warde, Linda Collister, Elsa Petersen-Schepelern, and 19 others. There are a slew of 25 photographers too. It is all matter-of- fact, emphasizing the easy, being one of a series. The emphasis is on “classic” or traditional foods, thus there are plenty of hearty poultry and game, Yorkshire pudding, rolled pork roast, bread and butter pudding, and the like. Desserts abound, as do teatime preps and preserves. Not much text: just the recipes, with a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 85. ---------------------------------------------------- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR SEPTEMBER 2007 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com WARNING -- PRICE ALERT: All prices are as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. QUESTIONS OF TASTE; the philosophy of wine (Oxford University Press, 2007, 222 pages, ISBN 978-0-19-533146-2, $34.95 hard covers) has been edited by Barry C. Smith, an academic who teaches philosophy at the University of London. It is a collection of 10 essays, by different people, dealing with the philosophical issues of tasting wine. Each contributor has something to say about how we taste wine, based on the quotation from Voltaire, “Taste invites reflection”. It obviously sets us apart from any other living creature, that is, the ability to discuss merits. The essays are based on the proceedings of an international conference entitled “Philosophy and Wine: from science to subjectivity”, held in December 2004 at the University of London. This makes it all scholarly, with end notes and bibliographies for further reading. It is meant for the serious wine consumer, especially the ones who read about wine. Five philosophers, a linguist, a biochemist, a winemaker (Paul Draper, who got his college degree in philosophy), and a wine writer (Andrew Jefford) try to illuminate the philosophical issues surrounding a love of wine, always returning to the initial “why?” Questions posed: can wines be brawny? (reflections on wine vocabulary by Adrienne Lehrer), what good is knowledge in enjoying wine? (Kent Bach). Does a wine expert enjoy wine more than a novice does? How much should we care about what experts say about wine? This is not an easy book to read; it is a bit turgid in places. Audience and level of use: for philosophers, for advanced wine consumers. Some interesting or unusual facts: well, there is a famous quote that brings us down to earth: “What’s all the fuss about wine? It’s just a bloody drink” The downside to this book: Jancis Robinson’s name was prominent on this book, yet she wrote only a three paragraph foreword (and one of the paragraphs is used as a logroller on the dust jacket). Editor Smith had previously written the “Wine and Philosophy” article for Robinson’s Companion to Wine (2006), also published by Oxford. Hmmmmm... The upside to this book: a great read on the experience of enjoying wine. Try to read it with a glass of great red wine next to you. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. PETER REINHART’S WHOLE GRAIN BREADS; new techniques, extraordinary flavor (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 309 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-759-9, $42 hard covers) is by the author of “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”, a Beard Award winner from 2002 (his second Beard: the first was in 1999). In fact, he was cofounder of Brother Juniper’s Bakery in Santa Rosa, CA and is currently on faculty at Johnson and Wales University. In this thorough and comprehensive book, Reinhart gives us 55 master formulas: all with baker’s percentages, nutrition facts, ingredient measures in volume, ounces, and gram measures, cooks notes, and timings. The book claims 150 instructional photos plus 40 styled food photos of the finished product. Whole grain is the emphasis; delayed fermentation biga is the method. Types covered include hearth breads, sandwich specialty breads, international breads (stollen, brioche, pumpernickel, hutzelbrot), bagels, flatbreads (injera, roti, chapatis, naan, pita), and crackers. The style is scholarly, and you must be a committed baker (or, at least, really love bread) to follow along. More details are at his blog peterreinhart.typepad.com. His book concludes with a huge resources list, a nicely chosen selection of websites listing blogs, bakeries, grain mills, flour producers. As well there is a books list and a glossary. This is a really good reference tool. Audience and level of use: the bread lover and bread maker. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: three rye hearth bread, 100% sprouted grain bread, lavash, graham crackers, ciabatta. The downside to this book: it can be slightly more technical than needed, but then he is now an academic in teaching mode (different from “showing mode”). The upside to this book: he has ingredient measures in three styles. Quality/Price Rating: 92. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS 3. NEW RESTAURANT DESIGN (Lawrence King Publishing, 2007, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-85669-500-8, $56 hard covers) is by Bethan Ryder, who is a London-based writer specializing in interior design. Previously, he had authored “Bar and Club Design” (2002), “Restaurant Design” (2004) and “New Bar and Club Design” (2005). This book is a second volume to the first, since the “new” in the title refers to a new batch of restaurants, and not to a new or revised edition. The book plainly shows that interior designs change over the years, in “an attempt to seduce diners” (gee, I thought it was the food). This new roundup of popular designs includes 45 featured projects from Moscow, Bangkok, Amsterdam, Brazil, UK, etc.: such places as MOMA in New York and Senderens in Paris. He has interviews with 11 of the world’s top restaurant designers on their design philosophy, approach, and their own fave eateries. Through it all, he tries to answer the age-old question: what makes a great restaurant space? He has four themed chapters: Global Views, New Baroque, Modern Classic, and High Concept. Each resto gets a description and floor plans. The book claims 247 illustrations. Audience and level of use: restaurant planners, existing restaurant owners looking for something new. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Since 2003, there has been a waning of the retro-futuristic style”. There has been a noticeable increase in organic influences, looking to nature for inspiration. The downside to this book: there is nothing for any restaurants in Canada, but Yabu Pushelberg did design “Fin” in Las Vegas. The upside to this book: lots of bespoke materials are covered. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 4. VEGETABLE HARVEST (William Morrow, 2007, 324 pages, ISBN 978-0-06- 075244-6, $43.95 hard covers) is by Patricia Wells, food critic for the IHT and the author of 10 other cookbooks, mostly on France. One of her fave veggies is the potato, and indeed she devotes space to her signature veggie. She gives us over 200 recipes based on her own French Provencal veggie garden (her “potager”) – lucky her! Everything here is, of course, low-fat and low-calorie inspired, but still French influenced. The simple combinations produce great flavours. The range of her garden is from almond to zucchini, embracing herbs, nuts, legumes and fruits. So it is more than just “vegetable”. Her produce is mostly summer and fall, but winter can be serviced by squash and potatoes. All courses are covered, plus there is a chapter on pantry staples for the garde manger. She has profiles of French farmers, home gardeners, and local cooks. Nutritional information is given for each recipe. As well, there are French and English titles, such as “potato gratin from the Savoy” and “gratin savoyard”. Wine suggestions are offered for most dishes, and these are all French wines. Audience and level of use: fans of Wells, intermediate cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spicy polenta cheese crackers; poached skate with sauce gribiche; seared baby squid; rabbit with artichokes and pistou; lamb couscous with chickpeas and zucchini; eggplant daube. The downside to this book: despite the title, this is NOT a vegetarian book. Indeed, it covers plants that are not vegetables (nuts, legumes, and fruit). Also: the ingredients are expressed in US volume measurements, with no metric tables of equivalents, yet the nutritional data is in calories plus metric. The upside to this book: most servings are for four people. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. THE STORY OF TEA; a cultural history and drinking guide (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 417 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-745-2, $37.95 hard covers) is by Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss. They have owned and operated a specialty tea and food store since 1974; check out www.chhoksshophere.com. Logrollers include noted cookbook authors such as Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, and Elizabeth Andoh (Japanese cooking expert). This guide covers global history and some terroir. There is a dictionary of tea varietals, and there are good guidelines for selecting, storing, and brewing tea. There is a section called “life of a tea bush”. There are also only 9 recipes that use tea as an ingredient, with US weights and measures and no metric equivalency table. They do cover the latest research on the healthful benefits of drinking tea, and the ethics of the tea industry and the regulatory organizations with their certification principles. This delves into organic production and fair trade practices and issues. They have lots of sidebars and a resources list of books, glossary, vocabulary used to describe tea, and a buyer’s resources of supply with websites. Audience and level of use: tea lovers, gift givers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: jasmine tea ice ream; green tea chiffon cake; oolong-smoked duck breasts; shrimp with longjing tea. The downside to this book: no suppliers are listed for Canada. The upside to this book: comprehensive. It is a posh production, and a very engaging read. Nice layout. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 6. A GEOGRAPHY OF OYSTERS; the connoisseur’s guide to oyster eating in North America (Bloomsbury, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 289 pages, ISBN 978- 1-59691-325-7, $29.95 hard covers) is by food writer Rowan Jacobsen; it is the third oyster book to be published in the past year. Jacobsen says that taste relies on terroir. Oysters are the food that most tastes like the sea, because that is where they are. He describes how oysters take on their flavour. About 130 oysters are covered. Part one is “Mastering oysters”: what they are, how to taste, and the like. Part two is “Oyster Appellations of North America”, covering the Maritime Provinces, BC coastline, and oysters throughout North America. There are even oyster tours which one can take. Part 3 is a big resources section on shopping, shucking, and serving. Here you’ll find a list of oyster festivals and bars, and growers who ship direct. This includes wine and oyster matches to specific varieties, sake, campari and soda, and beer as well. There are 21 recipes for the basics of hangtown fry, lemon oyster shooter, baked oysters. For more details, check www.oysterguide.com. Audience and level of use: oyster lovers, reference libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The R rule was originally made to protect the oyster, not the people. Oysters create offspring during the non-R months, and taste bland anyway at that time of year. The downside to this book: there is no bibliography for additional reading. The upside to this book: lots of material on Canada, and multiple indexes (to recipes, to oysters). Quality/Price Rating: 88. 7. SWEETY PIES; an uncommon collection of womanish observations, with pie (Taunton Press, 2007; distr. Random House, 171 pages, ISBN 978-1- 56158-848-0, $29.95 hard covers) is by food writer Patty Pinner. Her previous book “Sweets” was selected as one of the best cookbooks of the year by the New York Times. This book has a great title, although the original subtitle was “an uncommon collection of country pies and womanish observations”. I guess the change was made to further market the book to the booking memoir market, for it is being touted as a gift for daughters, sisters, grandmothers, and friends. Indeed, the book is part cookbook and part memoir, with stories about herself and the women behind making the pies. 70 pie recipes begin with the basic techniques of making the pastry. She has several instructions for adding a top and crimping an edge (e.g., glazed sugar top, flagged edges, pinched edge, rope edge, lattice top, and more). She uses corn syrup for the most part, and vegetable shortening in the crusts (butter in the sweet tart crusts). There is no lard here. US volume measurements are used, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are separate sections for berry pies, cereal pies, cream and custard pies, fruit pies, nut and sweet vegetable pies, and meringue pies. Audience and level of use: key lime pie; blueberry meringue pie; hazelnut pie; golden squash pie; decadent pecan pie; lemon sponge pie. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The downside to this book: unfortunately, there seems to be a heavy reliance on corn syrup as a sweetener. Corn syrup (either regular or refined high fructose) has links to obesity, more so than other sugars. Also, no lard is apparently ever used. The upside to this book: large typefaces and leading, good variety of pies. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 8. DANA’S TOP TEN TABLE; 200 fresh takes on family-favorite meals (HarperCollins, 2007, 228 pages, ISBN 978-0-00-200767-2, $28.95 paper covers) is by Canadian food writer Dana McCauley, who is also a food consultant focusing on food-trend tracking and analysis. She was the former food editor of Homemakers and Gardening Life. Her research shows that the meals families make and eat at home can be summarized as really just 10 themes: chicken, pasta, sandwiches, pork (including ham and sausages), casseroles (and stews), pizza, fish, burgers, steak, and soup. She gives us about 20 recipes for each category, to jazz up the basics and to have tastier standard items. Each recipe has prep and cooking times, storage and freezing options for future use, and pantry substitutions. There are variations for slow cookers, meals for two, and batch cooking (for deliberate leftovers). As a Canadian book, the weights and measures for ingredients are in both US and metric forms. These top ten categories are just about all the food a family will eat anyway – you’d be hard pressed to come up with more categories. Of course, there is overlap, such as chicken sandwiches or fish soup. I am surprised that fish (as in fin) is on board as a top ten. And where are cheese or other dairy, and eggs? Pizza is dubious: do we really eat that much home made pizza with our own homemade crust? Or do we actually buy a crust platform at the supermarket (or buy bread dough) and then load it up with pizza food. This needs clarifying. Audience and level of use: families needing help, beginner cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grecian beef ribbon skewers, several mac and cheese, cold potato soup with smoked salmon, curried lentil soup, cheesy garlic halibut. The downside to this book: I don’t think the top ten are everybody’s faves, just most of them. Some people may be lost in certain categories. The upside to this book: quick and tasty preps. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 9. HOW TO COOK A TURKEY; and all the other trimmings (Taunton Press, 2007, 234 pages, ISBN 978-1-56158-959-3, $25.95 hard covers) is by the editors of “Fine Cooking” magazine. It is out just in time for American Thanksgiving, but it is cutting it close for the Canadian Thanksgiving. Here are 100 recipes plus techniques for appetizers to desserts, all sourced to the 61 contributors. There are basic data on organic, kosher, wild and frozen turkeys. The book has two recipes for brined turkey. Indeed, there are six different ways to cook the bird. But it has nothing on the trendy deep fried turkey. Ancillary material includes techniques on how to make gravy and how to roll out a pie crust. They begin with the work order for shopping and planning, storage in the fridge and in the freezer, choosing service dishes, and pre-cooking. They deal with problems such as having a bird that is too cold, stuffing not hot enough, pan drippings burned, lumpy gravy (not Frank Zappa), gluey potatoes, cracked pies – and, of course, how to fix them. Pies and tarts are in a separate chapter, away from desserts. Weights and measures are all US, with no metric tables of equivalents. The book has 11 recipes for leftovers (soups, salads, shredded, diced, Mexican and Italian dishes). There are step-by-step videos and more recipes at www.finecooking.com. Audience and level of use: good book for those who want to vary their roast birds, and want something different for Thanksgiving and Christmas. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: herb-marinated olives with fennel and orange zest; baby spinach with scallions and lemons; fennel and escarole stuffing with pine nuts; apple cider pie. The downside to this book: I wish there were more international accompanying dishes, such as a Mediterranean menu and an Oriental menu. Also, there are NO wine or other beverage recommendations. This issue needs to be addressed. The upside to this book: there is actually one recipe for roast duck or goose (could also substitute capon, I’d imagine) and one recipe for stuffed turkey breast. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 10. GOOD CALORIES, BAD CALORIES; challenging the conventional wisdom on diet, weight control, and disease (Knopf, 2007, 605 pages, ISBN 978- 1-4000-4078-0, $35.95 hard covers) is by Gary Taubes, a correspondent for “Science” magazine. He has won three Science in Society Journalism awards. He argues that refined carbohydrates are most likely the culprits not only in obesity, heart disease, and diabetes, but also in a host of other chronic diseases, including cancer. This book is the culmination of five years of research in sifting through data. Early studies of isolated populations who ate traditional diets became obese and suffered chronic diseases when white flour, sugars, and simple starches were introduced. These refined carbos have an effect on insulin, leading to insulin resistance and “Syndrome X” (1988). He has historical chapters on the different kinds of diets. His conclusion is in the epilogue. Basically, the only way to lose weight and to keep a healthy size is by removing refined carbos from our eating. Obesity is the direct result of increased insulin. He has seventy pages of extensive end notes and bibliography. Audience and level of use: reference libraries, dieters. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: High-fructose corn syrup (HFCS-55) is the devil. He calls for rigorous controlled trials of the long-term effects of sugar and HFCS. The downside to this book: there is nothing on MSG, or on how addictive HFCS is. The book still needs an “Executive Summary”: what should we be doing? The upside to this book: he examined thousands of studies. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS... ...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them altogether. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 11. KILLER CHILI; savory recipes from North America’s favorite restaurants (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-932855-60-9, $19.95 spiral paper bound) is by Stephanie Anderson, a food and lifestyle writer who has previously authored “Killer Pies” in this series. Here are 50 recipes from named restaurants from all over North America: 10 apiece from the Northeast, Midwest, South, Western States, and Canada. From Canada, we have the Boiler House in Toronto (lobster chili) and McSorley’s Saloon (veggie chili). The Tomato Fresh Food Cafe in Vancouver also has a vegetarian chili. The basic ingredients are all explained: beans, peppers, meats, spices, and liquids. Then the variations begin with chorizo sausage, beer, seafood, veggie, and something called “Tuscan” (more noted for its rosemary and fennel than for anything else that is particularly “Tuscan”). There are addresses and descriptions for all the restos, including either a pix of the food or of the establishment. Welcome to the world of bowls of reds (Texas), Christmas (New Mexico), and five-ways (Cincinnati). The spiral binding is useful since it makes the book lie flat. But a major drawback is the teeny tiny typeface used in the index, which is also NOT an ingredient index but just a title index. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. MORIMOTO; the new art of Japanese cooking (DK Books, 2007, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-3123-9, $50 hard covers) is by Masaharu Morimoto, the God in the Iron Chef television series (he was virtually unbeatable). He is an awesome giant in the food world, although he looks a little silly in the cover photo with the hair on his chinny- chin-chin. A fixture on the Food Network since 1999, he also owns restaurants in New York, Philadelphia, Tokyo, and Mumbai. He has his own brand of sake and beer. His top log rollers (endorsers) include Mario Batali, Anthony Bourdain, and Ferran Adria. Here, in this book, he presents over 125 recipes which re-invent Japanese cooking with modern sensibilities. Lots of terrific gastroporn, plus plenty of photos of techniques. The whole range is here, with individual chapters on sashimi and sushi, noodles and rice, fish and shellfish, poultry, meats, veggies, eggs, desserts, plus the requisite condiments. There is also a glossary and an all-US sources list. He goes into great detail on techniques (such as stuffing lotus leaves) and plating philosophy (the latter is terrific stuff). The book is oversized and heavy, so you’ll need to make photocopies of any recipes you’d actually want to try: grilled quail, lamb carpaccio, tofu and spicy pork sauce, beef belly tartare, tempura vegetables with XO dipping sauce. Recipes are expressed in US volume measurements and US/metric weight measurements. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 13. THE KITCHENS OF BIRO; simple SpanAsian cuisine (Gibbs Smith, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0117-3, $35.95 hard bound) is by Marcel and Shannon Kring Biro. They are stars and producers of the Emmy Award-winning PBS cooking series “The Kitchens of Biro”. They’ve written other cookbooks, and he’s also owner of Biro Internationale, an integrated cuisine company consisting of restaurants, cooking schools, branded merchandise (e.g., pots and pans), and food consultancy. This current book tries to fuse the simple Asian food with the rustic Spanish food, to produce such preps as a saffron shrimp and leek soup, or a manchego and tomato and spinach tarte flambee, or a salmon teriyaki satay with garlic-fried rice and mixed greens. The book has the usual gastroporn photos, which seems a bit out of place in preps stressing their easy and simple nature. While all the ingredients are listed with US weights and measures, there is a table of metric equivalents. The sources list mostly refers to Biro branded products, which can be found through www.kitchensofbiro.com. All courses are covered, although a core chapter deals with sushi and tapas, almost forty pages long. Try chipotle pork with mushrooms or his trio of empanadas. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14. A GREAT AMERICAN COOK; recipes from the home kitchen of one of our most influential chefs (Houghton Mifflin, 2007, 286 pages, ISBN 978-0- 618-65852-7, $43.95 hard covers) is by Jonathan Waxman, who once chefed at Chez Panisse (in the early 1980s) before opening Jams in New York. He is now chef-owner of two restos, one being on the US West Coast. His style has been characterized as contemporary American cooking. Notable log rollers include Bobby Flay, Alice Waters (of course), and Colman Andrews. Tom Steele is the focusing writer. The recipes are meant for home cooks, with a philosophy of “less is more”. Here are conceptions such as red pepper pancakes with corn sauce and smoked salmon (the created classic for Chez Panisse), crispy chicken and goat cheese burritos (his most ordered item), pizza with bacon, scallions, parmesan and tomatoes (his favourite family supper), and a simple grilled chicken with fries (his signature dish). Other, typical dishes include deep-fried calamari with chipotle mayo, shrimp with caper mayo, and an eggplant with pepper, zucchini, and pesto sandwich. Basic, but thorough, prep notes are included, most with a pix. Large print and more leading make this book more enjoyable for the older folks, the stoners who lost their way after Berkeley...As for knives, you’ll find that he has migrated from Wusthof to Japanese steel. Courses are arranged from starters through to desserts. US volume measurements are used, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 15. TRATTORIA GRAPPOLO; simple recipes for traditional Italian cuisine (Gibbs Smith, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0215- 6, $35.95 hard covers) is by Chef Leonardo Curti of the Santa Ynez, California operation, Trattoria Grappolo. The resto has been open since 1997, serving casual Italian fare as well as catering services. The co- author is James O. Fraioli, food writer and photographer. There is plenty of in situ photography, making this book a perfect example of the genre. Logrollers include at least five non-cooking celebrities, and I’m not even going to bother to list their names...The cuisine is Calabrese; the wines are Santa Ynez Valley (site of the movie “Sideways”). There are 100 dishes, arranged by course, including pizza rolls from Venice, salmon carpaccio with capers and arugula, black squid ink risotto, and roasted Italian sausage with cannellini beans. And there are some really great wine suggestions with brilliant write- ups of at least four or five lines each: good work, wine guys! At the end of the book there is listing of some 75 wineries to visit (with addresses, phone numbers, websites, etc.) plus a metric conversion chart. The type size is large enough for good readability. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 16. TASSAJARA COOKBOOK; lunches, picnics & appetizers (Gibbs Smith, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0097-8, $35.95 hard covers) is by Karla Oliveira, a nutritionist and professional chef (over 25 years) with a lot of credits. The Tassajara Zen Mountain Center (Buddhist monastery in California’s Ventana Wilderness) is famous for its healthy vegetarian cuisine, including its bag lunches. This book contains many recipes for savoury breads, pates, sandwich fillings, granolas, salads, chutneys and relishes, sauces and marinades, and baked goods and sweets such as cookies (vegan and dairy). It is fabulous fare for appetizers and small plates, as well as lunches for vegans and vegetarians. You can even use the recipes and ideas to prepare school lunches for your kids; it’ll be a lot healthier than the high-fructose corn syrup stuff in prepared foods. There’s a concluding chapter on prepping the food, such as the composition of a sandwich with all of its accoutrements (such as condiments, pickles, cheese/butter/eggs, vegetables, fruit), what to put spreads on to, and lunch bag ideas for carrying the food, and metric conversion charts. Try some basil-lime-pumpkin seed pesto, or roasted eggplant compote, or almond pate, tempeh salad, couscous salad, and cappuccino coins. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 17. AMERICAN MASALA; 125 new classics from my home kitchen (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 264 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-34150, $44 hard covers) is by Suvir Saran, with Raquel Pelzel as the unidentified focusing food writer. Saran had previously authored “Indian Home Cooking”, and is the owner of Devi in Manhattan. In 2008, he expects to launch a chain of informal and casual Indian restos named, ahem, American Masala (originally described in the promo sheets as “American Masala fast-food chain”). More details are at www.suvir.com. He has a ton of log rollers: Michael Ruhlman, Mark Bittman, Sheila Lukins, Mollie Katzen, Gael Greene, and even Marion Nestle (author of “Food Politics”). This is outright US fusion food, with tamarind glazed turkey and jalapeno cornbread stuffing, Indian shrimp scampi, and pistachio and cardamom pound cake. Basically, you add Indian spices (cumin, coriander, cardamom, and saffron) to US dishes such as mac and cheese or meatloaf. Masala is, of course, the Hindi word for a blend of spices. His topics embrace chutneys and condiments, appetizers, salads, soups and stews, right through to desserts and to breakfasts. A list of resources for suppliers is at the end of the book. Weights and measures are only for US, and there are no metric conversion tables. There’s not a lot in this book that you could call innovative, but certainly there are lots of interesting preps for the beginning home cook. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 18. NEIMAN MARCUS TASTE; timeless American recipes (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-39435-4, $57 hard covers) is by Kevin Garvin, Executive Chef and Vice President of Neiman Marcus Restaurants. John Harrisson is the focusing food writer. Founded in 1907 in Dallas, Neiman Marcus now has 36 stores and 50 restaurants across the USA. Their first restaurant opened in 1953. This book is part of their 100th anniversary celebrations. So you’d think that there would be 100 recipes? Actually, there are 110 – and not one of them refers to chocolate chip cookies! The legendary Helen Corbitt created many preps, and some of these are still on the menu somewhere in the 50 restaurants. Signature dishes for the resto and modern updatings from Garvin (who arrived in 1994) fill the book. Part of the book is a history, with photos and reproductions of older menus. There is also some material on the development of food preps, with photos of people (too many for a regulation cookbook; this book must be viewed as a souvenir of the store). Arrangement is by course, with breads and morning pastries, cocktails and beverages, and some basics. While there are all kinds of additional notes and a glossary, there are no tables of equivalents for the US volume measurements used. Typical preps include very tomatoey minestrone, savory pretzel sticks, blue cheese and walnut and port pate, stuffed flounder, creamed chicken a la king, and baked cheddar grits. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 19. GREAT BAR FOOD AT HOME (John Wiley, 2007, 127 pages, ISBN 978-0- 471-78183-7, $21.99 hard covers) is by Kate Heyhow, a food author and writer with a website globalgourmet.com. Her current books attempts to re-create small bites from various bars (cocktail, wine, brewpubs) around the world. About 50 recipes cover such things as caviar tortes with toast points, gougere, tangerine yakitori, bresaola carpaccio with parmesan capers, salmon cassis, Spanish smoked paprika wings. Preps are generally not sourced as to resto origins. US weights and measures are used, and there is no table of metric equivalents. She has some nice notes on pairing foods with cocktails and beers. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 20. TWO MEATBALLS IN THE ITALIAN KITCHEN (Artisan Books, 2007, 319 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-345-3, $45 hard covers) is by Pino Luongo, New York chef-owner of three and more Italian restaurants in Manhattan, and Mark Strausman, a co-owner with Pino and a chef in his own right. Both of them diss each other all the time (they’ve known each other for over two decades), and, according to this book, they have the 150 recipes to prove that they are both right. Who knows? Anthony Bourdain and Daniel Boulud are the two prominent log rollers...Take the meatball challenge yourself. There are nine classic and creative takes on meatballs, plus material for vegetarians and seafood-lovers. This is a book about culinary competitions, a sort of Iron Chef at home game. Chapters cover dried pasta, fresh pasta, risotto, oven cooking, grilling, what Italian-American cooking is all about, Sunday dinners, and desserts. There’s a glossary, and ingredients are expressed in both US and metric weights and measures! Try penne with veal and sage sauce, pasta with eggplant and sausage, fettuccine carbonara, Sicilian couscous, grilled stuffed pork chops, or chocolate biscotti. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 21. BOBBY FLAY’S MESA GRILL COOKBOOK; explosive flavours from the southwestern kitchen (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 278 pages, ISBN 978-0-307- 35141-8, $44 hard covers) is by the famous Iron Chef America Food Network guru who tied with Susur Lee in one of the series exciting performances. To Flay’s credit, there is not a single log roller on the dust jacket. He opened Mesa Grill in 1991, and went on to open in more locations and then with other restos. He has appeared a lot on TV. More details are at his website www.bobbyflay.com. Here he is assisted by his business assistant Stephanie Banyas and by a focusing food writer, Sally Jackson. It is surprising that this is his first totally Southwestern cookbook. His other seven books have dealt with grilling and family food, with some tangential Southwest recipes. After all, it has been 16 years since he opened Mesa Grill (two dishes still remain today that were on the opening menu: shrimp and roasted garlic corn tamales, and BBQ duck-filled blue corn pancakes). He believes in smoky, earthy, fruity, and spicy flavours – almost as a replacement for the usual salt, sweet, bitter, and sour. There are 150 recipes here from his resto, covering drinks, appetizers, soups, salads, mains, sides, sauces, desserts, and even brunches. Lots of pix on food and the restaurant itself. A good index, a sources list, but no metric tables of equivalents for the US volume weights and measures. Try pumpkin French toast with allspice butter and fig-maple syrup, creamy green chile rice, chile-rubbed rabbit with green pea risotto, cumin-crusted chicken with cotija and mango-garlic sauce, queso fundido with roasted poblano vinaigrette. Quality/Price Rating: 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR AUGUST 2007 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: “People have lost their taste for subtlety; they want bigger than life flavors that are amped up with aromatics. That’s American cooking at the moment.” – Jonathan Gold, restaurant critic for L.A. Weekly, 2007. WARNING -- PRICE ALERT: All prices are as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. MY ITALIAN GARDEN; more than 125 seasonal recipes from a garden inspired by Italy (Broadway Books, 2007, 258 pages, ISBN 978-0-7679- 1825-1, $24.95 paper covers) is by the well-known Italian cookbook author, Viana La Place. She’s a personal fave of mine, with her other books (Cucina Rustica, Verdura, Pasta Fresca, Cucina Fresca, Panini) sitting on my shelves. The 125 recipes are based on her seven-tiered garden in her backyard in San Francisco, which is modeled after Italian gardens. She’s planted three dozen varieties, such as lacinato kale, fig trees, treviso radicchio, wild fennel, lemon trees, and jasmine. The book is arranged by season, summer through spring, as the garden itself changes. There are no complex recipes here, just veggies and herbs with pasta (or panini, pizza, risotto) forms for the most part. US volume measurements are used for the ingredients. She lists eight sources for Italian seed varietals, including one direct from Italy (the rest are all USA). Full courses are given, from apps through condiments and desserts. Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Sicilian zucchini al picchi pacchi; orecchiette with little yellow tomatoes and parsley; chioggia beet and radicchio salad; whole sage leaves in pastella; risotto with orange and lemon; herb and parmesan custards with truffle oil. The downside to this book: no metric conversion tables. The upside to this book: well-developed index. Quality/Price Rating: 92. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS 2. CONSIDER THE OYSTER; a shucker’s field guide (McClelland & Stewart/Madison Press, 2007, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7710-5770-0, $24.99 hard covers) is by Patrick McMurray, owner of Starfish Oyster Bed & Grill in Toronto. He is also a champion shucker, with North American and world titles under his belt. His book is full of history, with anecdotes about his experiences as a shucker and restaurateur. There are profiles of oyster bars around the world. He has details for you on planning an oyster tasting and party. There is information about the major suppliers in Ireland, Cape Cod, Scotland, and New Zealand. Plus, of course, what drinks to serve (champagne, wine, and beer) without going into specifics. More than 50 varieties are described, and he has developed a tasting wheel of flavours and textures. Audience and level of use: oyster lovers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Mark Kurlansky’s “The Big Oyster” (published in 2006) is a hard act to follow. The downside to this book: teeny tiny typeface in the index, and there are no recipes except for raw oysters and drinks. The upside to this book: there are good illustrations, and he gives profiles of champion shuckers and their techniques. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 3. THE ABOUT.COM GUIDE TO SHORTCUT COOKING (Adams Media, 2007; distr. by T.Allen, 279 pages, ISBN 978-1-59879-272-0, $21.95 paper covers) is by Linda Larsen, a cookbook author and professional home economist with Pillsbury. She is also the About.Com Guide to Busy Cooks. This series of books covers contributions made through the Internet – other food topics have included “Southern Cooking”. 225 recipes concentrate on quick cooking: you’ll need a microwave oven and/or slow cooker for many recipes. With useful website recipes and reader forums for tips and advice, the book is good for beginners who need handholding. Part of the value of the book is the fact that it will certainly pay for itself IF it keeps you from constantly buying food (driving around town, etc.). There are plenty of make-aheads, appetizer portions, lunch boxes, no-cook dinners, slow cooker dinners, leftover microwaving, and 30-minute suppers here. The menu listing (with page references) includes breakfasts and special appliances. There is also a bibliography and website listings for further sources. Audience and level of use: basic, basic. The downside to this book: too many “boughten” mixes for me (e.g., yeast bread mix, apple cinnamon muffin mix, pita bread). The upside to this book: if you need help, this is a good book. It also lies flat on the table, and there is a large-type index. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 4. CHEZ JACQUES; traditions and rituals of a cook (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-571-1, $54 hard covers) is by the ubiquitous and lovable Jacques Pepin, well-known chef and cookbook author. The book, meant to accompany a PBS series, weighs almost four pounds, and will serve as a handy item for exercise, especially in conjunction with the Indian spice route book (below), which weighs the same. Balance both books in both your hands while you are not cooking. This is Pepin’s tenth PBS series; he has authored over 20 cookbooks. The 100 recipes here are his personal faves (or so he says). Here he cooks at home in Connecticut. Each dish has an anecdote related to the food or its construction, sort of like a “Proustian Madeleine” In some ways, it is more a picture book and art book – it is illustrated with some of his paintings - meant for the coffee table (Stewart Tabori & Chang is an imprint of Harry N. Abrams, the well-known art book publisher). He does have an extensive discussion on what makes a recipe, but the book is French-styled all the way. WARNING: the recipes are in narrative style (which I love), like the old Gourmet magazine recipes used to be. Audience and level of use: gift giving, coffee tables, fans of Pepin. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pate of pheasant; frogs legs with garlic and parsley; pasta with mussels and shrimp; lobster souffle; snails in artichoke bottoms; chicken liver timbale; berry potpourri. The downside to this book: too many pictures of Pepin, and there are only 100 recipes The upside to this book: there is a metric conversion chart for the US weights and measures used. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 5. CHEESE & WINE; a guide to selecting, pairing, and enjoying (Chronicle Books, 2006, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0- 8118-5743-7, $32.95 hard covers) is by Janet Fletcher, food columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle, and a winner of two Beards and at least one IACP. She writes cookbooks and magazine articles on food. Here she presents a basic guide to cheeses, with wine matches, as one might find in the American marketplace. Thus, there are 16 US cheeses here which we cannot get in Canada due to cheese quotas, and there are no Quebec or other Canadian cheeses here, for that same reason. Six from England include Cheshire, Stilton, and Wensleydale, there’s Feta from Greece, 23 cheeses from France, nine from Italy and nine from Spain. Switzerland gets five. Seventy international cheeses are covered, including such as Vermont Cheddar and Pecorino Toscano from Italy. For each cheese, alphabetically arranged in the book, she gives its origin, characteristics, phonetic spelling, and complementary wines (there’s an international selection). Other material embraces selecting, pairing, handling, and serving cheese. For the latter she has developed cheese platter themes. Audience and level of use: basic reference tool. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the book is mostly cow’s milk, with 11 blues, 10 sheep, and 9 goat cheeses. The downside to this book: no food recipes. The upside to this book: there are two indexes to the cheeses, one by country and another by type of milk. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 6. BRAISE AND STEWS; everyday slow-cooked recipes (Chronicle Books, 2006, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6055-0, $29.95 hard covers) is by Tori Ritchie, a TV chef-hostess and a cookbook author. It is arranged by major ingredient (beef and veal, pork and lamb, poultry, fish and shellfish, and vegetable braises). These are one pot meals, but there are no slow cooker applications; there is a convenient techniques section. Accompaniments are listed, and include apricot couscous, farrotto, cheddar mashers, and romesco sauce. Measurements are in US volumes, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: basic and easy. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: turkey posole; carnitas; veal braised in milk; Spanish scallops; Swiss chard with cannellini. The downside to this book: not enough recipes, only about 60. The upside to this book: the accompaniments are summarized in a handy table on p. 136-137, and suggestions are made for pairing accompaniments to a variety of dishes. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 7. WHAT TO EAT FOR WHAT AILS YOU; how to treat illnesses by changing the food and vitamins in your diet (Fair Winds Press, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 368 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-236-6, $27.95 paper covers) is by Winnie Yu who writes frequently for national magazines on topics concerning health and nutrition. The promo sheet in the publisher’s catalogue identifies her as Winnie Scherer, under which she may also have written. In fact, the original title for this book was to be “The Encyclopedia of What to Eat for What Ails You”, and the subtitle was to be “a complete guide to special diets and nutritional cures for everything from arthritis to warts”. I suspect the word “cures” bothered the lawyers in the due diligence process. Nevertheless, this is good medical and nutritional advice, and the “A” section now begins with “acne”. For each condition (e.g., psoriasis) there is a one or two page description, notes on what to eat, what NOT to eat, and nutritional supplements. There are also separate strategies on how to handle each condition, notably on how to reduce your stress or learn to see your trigger points. Typical entries cover rosacea, diabetes, high blood pressure, CFS, alcoholism, canker sores, lupus, even cancer. And she is spot on, at least for those conditions I have. Over the years I’ve searched books and the Internet on diets for my problems, and she has done a nice job of summarizing. So there is every likelihood that she is okay on all the other areas I know nothing about. For almost all conditions, the foods to avoid are always salt, trans-fatty acids, and refined foods, followed by saturated fats, alcohol, and caffeine. Get rid of those six items, and you’ll be almost free of your health condition. Why? Because these six products are KNOWN to weaken your own natural immune system. She concludes with a resources list of books, articles and websites. As well, there is an extensive index. Audience and level of use: those looking for ease, reference libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: Many illnesses can be controlled by identifying and avoiding specific foods, as well as lifestyle or environmental factors that trigger flare-ups. The downside to this book: there could be missing information, such as under “Ear Infections” she doesn’t cover animal dander which is a known cause of ear problems. The upside to this book: she has material on special diets, nutritional supplements, and healthy foods for each ailment. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. GREAT NATURAL BREADS MADE EASY; simple ways to make healthful breads (Square One Publishers, 2007, 143 pages, ISBN 978-0-7570-0294-6, $20.95 paper covers) is by Bernice Hunt, an artisanal bread writer. She gives about 100 recipes plus variations for basic standard preps of whole grains, sourdoughs, sweet yeasts, and quick breads. Her material is presented as a step-by-step guide to baking somewhat like artisanal bread might be – if made at home. Part One is a history of bread, equipment, techniques, etc. Part Two is the recipes, with a simple chapter on dips and spreads. The basic sweets are here: pumpkin bread, zucchini bread, carrot bread, cranberry nut bread. As well, there is focaccia, pizza, pita, scones, soft pretzels, and even teething biscuits. Lauren Jarrett provides good line drawings of techniques. Audience and level of use: basic. The downside to this book: pretty basic, hard to go wrong. The upside to this book: metric conversion tables, good line drawings. Quality/Price Rating: 81. 9. THE NEW WHOLE GRAINS COOKBOOK; terrific recipes using farro, quinoa, brown rice, barley, and many other delicious and nutritional grains (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118- 5647-8, $22.95 paper covers) is by Robin Asbell, chef, food writer, and cooking teacher specializing in natural foods. The word “New” refers to the grains being used, not to a new edition. And even “grains” must be taken lightly. She has just 75 classic and modern recipes for easily found grains, but 20 are for rice and wild rice (grass), and which are more easily found elsewhere since they are more common. There are some recipes for corn meal, even though that product isn’t even covered under her introductory material on grains! Couscous is not a grain, so why bother? That’s two more recipes used up from the stash of 75. Soba noodles are used, even though it is buckwheat (not a grain) flour and not a “whole” grain. Maybe we need to take it all with a grain of salt. Nit-picking aside, this is a pretty decent book. It describes 14 different types with the emphasis on the healthiness of whole grains. It is arranged by course: breakfast, breads, sides (hot and cold), soups, entrees, desserts. I do have a problem with her conception of farro. She says that it is best used in soups and risottos, yet gives us two recipes – one for farro salad and one for farro-studded focaccia. Neither of these is a soup or a risotto. She treats farro as something separate from spelt, when actually they are the same product: farro is spelt with the husk (bran) left on. There is a resources list (nothing for Canada) and a table of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: intermediate skills. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: amaranth polenta with olive and tuna sauce; split pea quinoa dal; winter squash and barley risotto; chicken breasts stuffed with barley. The downside to this book: too many rice recipes (at the expense of the other grains), no info on corn meal, use of couscous, no relevant recipes for farro. The upside to this book: good leading in the index, colourful book, well-laid out, recipes are really good. Quality/Price Rating: 82 for concept, etc.; 86 for recipes. 10. COFFEE; scrumptious drinks and treats (Chronicle Books, 2006, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 96 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6056-7, $19.95 hard covers) is by all-purpose food writer Betty Robsbottom who writes cookbooks, a syndicated weekly column for Tribune Media Services, article for Bon Appetit, and teaches cooking classes. Here are 50 recipes for using basic coffee, such as Cafe au Lait, Cappuccino, Irish Coffee. Part one is stuff about coffee (roasting, brewing, and flavouring), part two has preps for hot and cold coffee drinks, part three deals with sweets to dip or nibble with coffee, plus some creamy coffee confections. The pictures show little beyond the vessel used to hold the liquid – good examples of pottery and cups, but not of coffees! Audience and level of use: beginning coffee lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: coffee caramel; Java Jolt Truffles; Chilled Chai coffee. The downside to this book: it would have been nice to have an index to those recipes which use powdered instant coffee. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents for weights and measures. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 11. ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, MIRACLE; a year of food life (HarperCollins, 2007, unabridged, 14.5 hours on 12 CDs, ISBN 978-0-06-085357-0, $49.95 set) is by Barbara Kingsolver, an American poet, novelist and creative non-fictionist. This is the audiobook version of the printed book released in the Spring of 2007. Academic parts of this book have been written by Steven Hopp, an environmental studies teacher, who is Kingsolver’s partner. Personal, diary-like entries come from Camille Kingsolver, her teenaged daughter. All three of them read their own writings on this audiobook. The basic premise of the book is: you are what you eat, and you need to put the kitchen back at the centre of family life. The family has moved back to Hopp’s Kentucky farm full- time. Previously, they were there just during the summers, and rented it out for the other months. Now, they will be raising their own food on their mixed farm, doing without the civilities of convenience foods, junk foods, etc. etc. This work has been described as part memoir and part journalistic investigation, with diversified farms at the centre of the American diet. It goes the 100-mile diet one better: this is the 100-yard diet. The recipes are part of CD number 12, and you can print them out (it’s a PDF file, 28 pages long). Audience and level of use: environmentalists, foodies, farmers. Some interesting or unusual facts: there is an author interview not found in the book. The downside to this book: the book itself lacked an index, which I found extremely annoying since I wanted to refer back to some points and to Hopp’s notes. The audiobook also has no index. There is also a list of resources (organizations, bibliographies) which is not on the audiobook. The upside to this book: glory be, there ARE chapter designations and descriptions and timings on the CD labels, so the listener can get his bearings (e.g., Looking for Mr. Goodvegetable 10:27 timing, part of Chapter 20). Quality/Price Rating: 92. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REPRINTS, REISSUES, AND NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 12. RED, WHITE AND DRUNK ALL OVER; a wine-soaked journey from grape to glass (Anchor Canada, 2007, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-385-66155-3, $22 paper covers) is by my colleague and fellow Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada member, Natalie MacLean. It was originally published last year in 2006, and had then been described as “engaging”, “practical”, and “pleases the palates”. It covers the zany obsessiveness of wine aficionados in North America. Topics include being an undercover sommelier for a night, visiting vineyards in France and California, retail stores, wine critics, and wine collecting. She has added a new chapter “Wine Meets Its Toughest Matches”, about pairing wine with foods such as artichokes, curries, chocolate desserts, and salads. Check out www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher. There is no index, which is a shame: this is a distressing trend in most books of eclectic essays and memoirs. It would only take a few hours and two book pages to produce an index, but it would add immeasurably to the worth of the book (easier to re-find data). This is a good read, although I’ve never liked the title (I have a personal bias against anything cutesy with alcohol-related social behaviour). Quality/Price Rating: 85. 13. CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY. Fifth edition (Compass American Guides, 2007; distr. by Random House Canada, 379 pages, ISBN 978-1-4000-1783-6, $27.95 paper covers) is from Fodor’s Travel, a well-respected publisher of travel guides. It has been written by John Doerper, Constance Jones, and Sharron Wood. It has been regularly revised over the years; indeed, it even has its own ISSN (which is used for serially-issued publications and magazines). It’s well-photographed, indexed, and mapped...and even well-written. It is a top-to-bottom guide to all things vinous in most of the state (nothing on Mendocino, little on Amador). Intro material includes wine history and wine culture, followed by winemaking “techie” stuff, including wine-tasting tips. The big regions are Napa and Sonoma, followed by the Central Coast. Winery listings appear in geographical order, following the most common driving routes. Each region has a series of suggested itineraries, along with the usual accommodations and dining places. Top choices are indicated. Many colour photos make this book heavy in weight. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14. SOUP KITCHEN (Collins, 2005, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-00-775637-7, $19.95 paper covers) has been edited by Annabel Buckingham and Thomasina Miers. It was originally published in the UK in 2005, and is now available here in Canada. This is a collection of soup recipes from top British chefs such as Nigella Lawson, Jamie Oliver (chickpea, leek and parmesan soup), Claudia Roden, Gordon “Bad Boy” Ramsay, Delia Smith (cauliflower soup with roquefort), Michel Roux Jr, and Prue Leith (tomato and basil soup). About 100 recipes from 100 contributors; British orientation in style and ingredients. Metric measurements are used. 70% of the royalties go to a variety of homeless charities. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. But see also --- 15. SOUP’S ON! Soul-satisfying recipes from your favorite cookbook authors and chefs (Chronicle Books, 156 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5262-3, $25.95 paper covers) is a collection of recipes that were donated to the book from chefs and cooking teachers. Half of the recipes were previously published by Chronicle. A portion of the royalties goes to NextCourse, a nonprofit organization that educates women in the San Francisco County Jail on nutrition and cooking on a budget. Among the donations are Charlie Trotter’s lentil and bacon soup, Martin Yan’s crab and asparagus soup, and Michael Chiarello’s pork and orange stew. There is also Deborah Madison, Peggy Knickerbocker, and Cat “Iron Chef” Cora. This is sort of a US equivalent to the UK book above, except it costs more money and has fewer recipes. Still, it is for a good cause. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 16. LOW-SALT COOKBOOK; a complete guide to reducing sodium and fat in your diet, 3rd ed. (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 329 pages, ISBN 978-1-4000- 9762-3, $21 paper covers) is from the American Heart Association. It was originally published in 1990 by Times Books, and was last revised in 2001. The publisher promises that this current edition has been completely updated and revised with 50 new recipes, over 200 in total. The revision also includes the latest dietary info and tips on substituting ingredients, plus how to avoid hidden sodium in prepared foods and in dining out. Many of the preps are associated with DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension). There are various appendices on herbs and spices, ingredient substitutions, and ingredient equivalents. Each recipe has the usual healthy listing of total fats, cholesterol, sodium, carbs, protein, calcium, potassium, calories, and dietary exchanges. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 17. LOTUS ASIAN FLAVORS (Periplus Editions, 2007; distr. Ten Speed, 241 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0492-9, $49.95 hard covers) is by Teage Ezard, an Australian chef who also has restos in Hong Kong. He promotes his preps as “Australian free-style”. This book was originally published by Hardie Grant Books in 2006 in Australia. He claims inspiration from Chinese dim sum, and both Malaysian and Thai hawker markets and vendors. His dishes here in this book are designed to be served on platters or in bowls, eaten with chopsticks, forks or fingers, simple and casual. Typical dishes include: drunken chicken, fried eggs with crab, spicy tom yum soup with shrimp, coconut laksa with Chinese doughnuts. There’s an ingredient listing and a list of all the recipes arranged by major ingredient (beef, curry, dim sum, soup, poultry, etc.). Quality/Price Rating: 85. 18. BEARD ON FOOD; the best recipes and kitchen wisdom from the dean of American cooking (Bloomsbury, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 337 pages, ISBN 978-1-59691-446-9, $32.95 hard covers) is a collection of short essays by James Beard. It was originally published in 1974, and over the years it has picked up an introductory note from Julia Child (in 1999), illustrations in 1983, more notes by Mark Bittman in 2007, and both a health and a supply update from Mitchell Davis in 2007. This book was re-published to coincide with the Beard Foundation’s Taste America Festival in September. Beard had selected items from his weekly syndicated newspaper column, 1970-1974. They reflect his beliefs, pleasures, memories, and prejudices. Recipes are in narrative style (which I prefer) and in lighter (barely photocopy strength) typeface which I dislike. There is both a subject guide to the recipes and a traditional ingredient index (but there is no entry for “hamburger”: you have to check “beef” for that product). There are no tables of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: no need to buy if you already have any of the earlier versions, but otherwise 85. 19. SOUTHEAST ASIAN FOOD; classic and modern dishes from Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Rev. ed. (Periplus Editions, 2007; distr. Ten Speed, 572 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946- 0488-2, $37.50 paper covers) is by Rosemary Brissenden from Australia. It was originally published in 1969 with many revisions over the years; the last was in 2003 by Hardie Grant Books. This current work has been Americanized. Recipes have been arranged by country, and within, by style of cooking. There is a table of measurements for small metric conversions, but otherwise the recipes have both metric and US volumes and weights. Malaysia and Singapore have the largest allocation (154 pages), with Laos as the smallest (22 pages). Typical basic preps (all sourced as to origin) include fish curry with coconut milk from South India, stuffed cucumber consomme from Bangkok, chicken in soy sauce from Java, beef or lamb sate from Indonesia, and green bamboo stew from Laos. Six desserts are listed separately. About 500 recipes are here, and there is a concluding bibliography for further reading. Elizabeth David once said that this was “A book that every serious cook should possess”. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 20. THE JAPANESE KITCHEN; a book of essential ingredients with over 200 authentic recipes (Kyle Cathie Book, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 240 pages, ISBN 978-190492-066-3, $24.95 paper covers) is by Kimiko Barber, who has authored many other Japanese cooking books. It was originally published in 2004. It was a winner of an International Association of Culinary Professionals’ (IACP) Award for Design. She categorizes 100 ingredients (soba noodles, umeboshi pickled plums) and produces 200 recipes. The book is about the kitchen, with its tastes, uses, and health benefits. Most of the preps here are classics, such as deep fried rice cake, udon noodle soup, lotus root in sweet vinegar, green bean salad, sushi, sukiyaki, chicken teriyaki, et al. But there are rarities too, such as gobo (burdock) stir-fry or kenchin jiru. There is a history of the foods used. All of the recipes have volume and weights as found in English countries, but with no metric tables of equivalents. And the design IS fabulous...Quality/Price Rating: 86. 21. CULINARY MATH. 3rd ed. (John Wiley and Sons, 2007, 262 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-06821-2, paper covers) is by Linda Blocker (a former math teacher) and Julia Hill (a public accountant). They both have taught at the Culinary Institute of America. This is the third edition of the workbook. The authors have updated and improved the practice problems, clarified content, and added new photography. They have also produced a website (www.wiley.com/go/culinarymath) where you can practice food costing on an Excel food cost form. There’s a wealth of material here for the office computer usage. Each chapter covers a specific aspect of math, with descriptions, situations, methods, and practice problems. There is space for calculations. Important topics include conversions, yields, recipe costing, beverage costing, recipe size conversion, various formulae and charts, and so forth. Not for the innumerate...Quality/Price Rating: 95 (industrial standard). ---------------------------------------------------- AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JULY 2007 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: Some wit once said there are Tee Shirts for dieters. These have slogans, such as “From your lips to your hips”, “From your eyes to your thighs”, and “From your taste to your waist”. WARNING -- PRICE ALERT: All prices are as printed on the cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! 1. COOKING SCHOOL PROVENCE (DK Books, 2007, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566- 2845-1, $30 hard covers) is by Gui Gedda, a Var-born now-retired chef and consultant, and Marie-Pierre Moine, a French food and wine writer and editor. It is the first of a series from DK based on regional food and cooking, cast into the mold of a “cooking school” with a daily lesson for one week. AND 2. FLAVORS OF PROVENCE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2007; distr. T.Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-371-1, $32.95 hard covers) is by Clare Ferguson, a British food and travel writer who also lives in Greece, North America, and other parts of the world. Both of these books are very appealing. The Gedda book (Cooking School) has a nice arrangement, by cooking school layout. He also covers the French Riviera, which is an extension of Provencal cooking. He has 100 recipes for the week long course, which you can do at home. There is a daily ingredient lecture theme, followed by a lunch and a three course dinner menu. He has step-by-step demos, location pictures, details on local merchants and local ingredients, and so forth. Much of this can be replicated at home if you have access to farmers’ markets. But it is difficult to get a fresh fish market, boulangerie, and fromagerie in one location outside of France. Maybe Sonoma...There is a glossary of French terms, but none of the local patois. He uses the metric only for weights – conversion tables are needed. The print is large, and the recipes are uncluttered. There is not much on wines. The Ferguson book is also one of a regional series, which began with Tuscany. Here, there are 90 recipes, and the book costs $3 more. There is no school aspect. There is a discussion on ingredients but these are scattered through the books (olives, walnuts and their oils; herbs and garlic; fish and poultry; sweets; sheep and goat cheese; wines). The recipes are arranged by course from apps to desserts to beverages. Websites are noted. Audience and level of use: Gedda’s book is a little more serious in intent, while Ferguson is better for the armchair traveler. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: recipes are the classics. But you can compare. Salade nicoise; pan bagna; ratatouille; pistou; tians; tapenade; fourgasse. The pissaladiere in Gedda’s book is more savoury. He uses more anchovies and 20 nicoise olives for eight people, while Ferguson uses 80 – 100 black olives for 8 people. Surprisingly, Gedda has no recipe for tourte de blettes! The downside to these books: both have too many locational pictures at the expense of demo pix. The upside to these books: both have French and English names of recipes, and these are indexed. Although Ferguson has fewer recipes, she appears to have more obscure regional dishes. Quality/Price Rating: Gedda gets a 88; Ferguson fetches a 86. 3. GOOD HOUSEKEEPING STAIN RESCUE!; the A-Z guide to removing smudges, spots & other spills (Hearst Books, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-58816-478-0, $16.95 spiral bound hard boards) is by Anne Marie Soto, who is not identified beyond her name, and the copyright is held by Hearst. AND 4. CLASSIC HOUSEHOLD HINTS; over 500 old and new tips for a happier home (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479-572-8, $21.95 hard covers) is by Susan Waggoner, a novelist who has also written about vintage cocktails. AND 5. NATURAL STAIN REMOVAL SECRETS (Fair Winds, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-253-3, $14.95 paper covers) is by Deborah Martin, who was once an editor for Rodale home and garden books. All three of these books are useful, although the Martin book is more environmentally friendly, more authoritative (the author worked for Rodale), and cheaper, especially for the relevant number of pages. All three books might be useful in restaurants which need immediate fixes to sudden dramatic situations of staining (washrooms, carpets, napkins, tablecloths, clothes, etc.). The Good Housekeeping book deals with ink, chocolate, makeup, mustard, nail polish, lipstick, grass, ketchup, crayon, scuff marks on the floor. It has data on bleach, commercial products, mystery stains, and kid-created stains. There is material on laundry basics, pre-washing data, enzymes, and a basic cleaning guide to fibres and fabrics. There is an A to Z arrangement for 80 stains. For each stain, there is information about how to remove it from fabric, upholstery, and carpet. It even has a special chapter on heirloom textiles. The Waggoner book is loaded with vintage and retro art, primarily from 1920 through 1960, and with anecdotes about American life, plus many fun quotes and facts from movies. The only stuff from the past that seemed to be effective was Bon Ami and Oxydol. But now there are a variety of new cleaners. The book goes beyond cleaning, of course, and includes organizing your homer, buying and storing food, how to use an iron properly, floors and floor coverings, painting, use of family rooms, bedrooms, bathrooms, and kitchens. Martin’s book has an “Emergency Stain Removal Cheat Sheet” for 20 basic stains. She always emphasizes “natural”, not harmful to the fabric, to you, or to the environment. She emphasizes that you test before you treat, and always have a dedicated stain removal kit of measuring cups, rags, scraping tool, Borax, bran, Club Soda, corn starch, cream of tartar, pencil erasers, hydrogen peroxide, kitty litter, lemon juice, meat tenderizer, nail polish remover, salt, soap, vinegar, and other items. The arrangement here is by type of stain (protein, tarnish, oily, dye, combo), but this may not be too useful in times of emergency. The best approach is directly through the index. She has a bibliography and lists of websites for more details. Audience and level of use: the Waggoner book is definitely meant to be a fun book to read, and then show to your cleaning lady. Unless you are a neat freak already. The Good Housekeeping book is thorough and to the point. The Martin book is for the green amongst us. The downside to this book: the Waggoner book’s index needs expanding. The Martin book’s paperback binding is really tight. The upside to this book: the Good housekeeping has a large type index, as does the Martin book. Quality/Price Rating: for straight ahead advice, try Good Housekeeping (90), for environmental concerns use Martin (90). The Waggoner book is useful but mainly just to read (85). 6. A COOK’S BIBLE: SEASONAL FOOD; how to enjoy food at its best (Duncan Baird Publishers, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-84483-399-3, $32.95 hard covers) is by Susannah Blake, a UK food writer. She emphasizes locally grown food and how to make the best of fresh produce, but in a UK orientation (despite Americanizing aubergines, rocket, and courgettes). It is arranged by season (and it is good to have a seasonal pantry), beginning with spring. Surpluses go into putting food by through jams, jellies, pickles, chutneys, relishes, drying and freezing. She has many stories to tell about textures, aromas, tastes, appearances, and history. She also has charts for seasonality. Audience and level of use: fresh food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: arugula pesto; beet salad with broiled halloumi cheese; summer greens salad with smoked salmon; roast lamb with rosemary, garlic, and white beans; broccoli and scallion salad; Sicilian eggplant salad. The downside to this book: too cute by half – page references are only on the recto pages, for both the left and right hand sides of the book. There are no metric conversions tables. The upside to this book: good layout. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 7. THE EVERYTHING PIZZA COOKBOOK (Adams Media, 2007, 309 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-259-4, $17.95 paper covers) is by Belinda Hulin, a professional food writer with several Association of Food Journalist awards. AND 8. THE EVERYTHING STIR-FRY COOKBOOK (Adams Media, 2007, 309 pages, ISBN 978-1-59869-242-6, $17.95 paper covers) is by Rhonda Lauret Parkinson, a free lance food writer living in Calgary; she has written several other books in this series. AND 9. THE EVERYTHING CHEESE BOOK (Adams Media, 2007, 300 pages, ISBN 978- 1-59869-252-6, $17.95 paper covers) is by Laura Martinez, a cheese specialist for The Pasta Shop in Berkeley, California. All three books are in the engaging “Everything” series, a sort of “Dummies” collection without the connotations associated with demeaning phrases such as Dummy guide to, or Idiot’s manual, etc. Thus, they are basic beginner cookbooks emphasizing the usual over the unusual, with few photos or illustrations. The most useful is the cheese book, since (in addition to recipes) it has basic reference material on what cheeses are produced around the world, how to buy, store, and serve. There are 100 recipes – one per cheese covered -- with pairing suggestions for beer, wine and spirits. Martinez also tells how to organize and host cheese tastings, parties and platters. There’s the usual tech talk on cheese making and what “forgotten” cheese will look like. The Pizza book is loaded with 300 recipes, plus crust doughs, techniques, equipment, history of pizza, and the like. There are pizza party tips, diet pizzas, kids’ pizzas, vegetarian pizzas, and even 21 dessert pizzas. You can make pizza with anything. She also has some calzones and turnovers, but I did not note pita pizzas – which should have been placed in a more obvious location. There’s a glossary and a resources list (books, websites). The Stir Fry book also has some 300 recipes. Stir frying is often promoted as a healthy food for people who almost never have time to cook. Here are easy techniques to get more veggies into your system. The categories include sauces, land and air and sea meats, “classics”, noodles, rice dishes, veggies, tofu. There is a glossary and a series of online resources. Audience and level of use: beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: wild boar BBQ pizza; triple- chocolate pizza; Indian curried chicken stir fry; stir fried Spanish rice; tuna tofu casserole. The downside to this book: the Cheese index is not terribly useful since there is no mention of Manchego or Spain. There is a recipe on p174 using Manchego and Membrillo cheese but neither word is indexed. In fact, very few recipes are indexed, which is a shame. The publisher assumes that if you want a recipe using Swiss cheese, then you will find it under the Swiss cheese entry. Also, there are no metric conversion tables for the US volume measurements. The upside to this book: cheap enough, useful for beginners. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 10. PIZZA CALZONE & FOCACCIA (Ryland Peters & Small, 2007; distr. T.Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-373-5, $25.95 hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a UK food writer who has authored other Italian food books for Ryland Peters & Small. 94% of the US population eats pizza, but does that mean that they will actually want to make a pizza? I think not...There are only 64 recipes here, and that covers all three types of dough goodies: pizza, calzone, focaccia. She covers the basics of doughs, techniques, sauces, baking stones and sheets, wheels, and wood-burning ovens. There’s even a good chapter on what to do with leftover dough (small bites, pizzettes, twists, puff balls, etc.). Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ligurian sardenaira; pear, pecorino, and taleggio pizza with honey and sage; stromboli; oat flour focaccia. The downside to this book: her classic pesto Genovese includes both olive oil and butter...none of my other cookbooks list both fats as ingredients. The upside to this book: good pix of easy techniques for making doughs and sauces. Quality/Price Rating: 81. 11. ROADFOOD SANDWICHES; recipes and lore from our favorite shops coast to coast (Houghton Mifflin, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-618-72898-5, $19.95 paper covers) is by Jane and Michael Stern, best selling authors of “Roadfood”. For well over 20 years, they have cruised up and down the highways and byways of the USA, searching for good food by the side of the road (not roadkill, folks, just diners), winning a James Beard Award for Lifetime Achievement in 1992. Here is how to recreate 100 sandwiches in your kitchen: heroes, hoagies, wraps, po’ boys, gyros, blimps, subs. But not calzones, which certainly are more portable than pizzas. The arrangement is alphabetical, from Amighetti Special in St. Louis (a hero) to Zep in Pennsylvania (Italian sub), and normally comes from one particular diner which is described. Included are faves of Elvis (peanut butter and banana) and Julia Child (baked beans on brown bread). An eclectic mix indeed. Audience and level of use: beginner, even restaurants wishing to broaden their repertoire. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef-on-weck from upper New York state; Hot Truck pizza sandwich; muffuletta from New Orleans; Hot Brown from Louisville; Hoosier tenderloin (which my Indiana-born wife feels can be either pork or beef); crab cake sandwiches. The downside to this book: no index by type of sandwich, so there is no way to locate all the heroes and wraps (even though there is only one wrap!). There are no metric conversion tables for the US volume measurements used. The upside to this book: there is a list of mail order condiments. Quality/Price Rating: 88. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- THE REPRINTS, REISSUES, AND NEWER EDITIONS... ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent “re-editions”... 12. THE CAPE COD TABLE (Harvard Common Press, 2007, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-366-7, $24.95 paper covers) is by Lora Brody. It was originally issued in hard covers in 2003 by Chronicle Books. This paperback reprint by noted food writer (over 20 cookbooks) Brody is geared to a combo of food and tourists, since the Cape is a major vacation attraction. Just about all of it is summery food, heavily based on seafood (clams, mussels, shrimps, lobsters, oysters, chowders) and salads, along with hearty brunches and breakfast foods (jams, desserts, breads). Attractive mains include grilled meats and Portuguese salt cod. And there is a table of metric equivalents. QPR: 86. 13. EULA MAE’S CAJUN KITCHEN; cooking through the seasons on Avery Island. (Harvard Common Press, 2002, 2007, 233 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832- 372-8, $19.95 paper covers) is by Eula Mae Dore; she has been a major chef and manager for the McIlhenny family (Tabasco sauces) and their company. Marcelle Bienvenu, assisting writer, does the weekly food column “Creole Cooking” for the New Orleans Times-Picayune. The McIlhenny family, though, retains the copyright. This reissue comes at a great time in the revival of interest in Cajun food and the outcomes of Hurricane Katrina. Indeed, a portion of the proceeds goes to the Relief Fund. 100 recipes cover the food from Avery Island; most of the preps will have Tabasco sauce. The ingredients listing in the recipes are screened, and thus hard to photocopy. There are also too many black and white corporate photos, and nothing on the food. QPR: 87. 14. CULPEPPER’S COLOR HERBAL (Sterling, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-4494-5, $23.95 paper covers) has been edited by David Potterton, and illustrated by Michael Stringer. It was originally published in 1649; this edition is a paperback reprint of the 1983 British version published by W. Foulsham. As a botanical guide, it has illustrations and a description of hundreds of plants, and it is an invaluable identification resource. If you need this kind of book, and you don’t have the 1983 version, then this is the book to buy. QPR: 90. 15. SAVEUR COOKS AUTHENTIC AMERICAN (Chronicle Books, 1998, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5524-2, $32.95 paper covers) comes from the editors of Saveur Magazine, a well-respected upscale pub that deals with food rather than with recipes, although the latter are included in the magazine. This is basically the 1998 book, but it is now available from Chronicle Books as a paperback reprint. The facts: 140 recipes, 400 colour photos, all regions in the US, exploring the diverse roots (e.g., Italian in San Francisco, fusion cuisine in Hawaii, creole-cajun in Louisiana, Greek Orthodox in New York) of the American scene – up to 1998. You won’t find much mention of Filipino or Thai food, or many other SEA components. The book also won a James Beard award for Best American Cookbook. Still, it is good to have this book back in print at an affordable price. At the end, there is a conversion chart for US and metric weight and measures, since all the recipes are in US measurements. QPR: 88. 16. WINE MADE EASY (Mitchell Beazley, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-247-1, $17.95 paper covers) has been edited and collated by Susy Atkins. It is based on four earlier books (2002 – 2004) from the “Wine Made Easy” series, each by different authors, plus new chapters on “Wine and Health” and “Touring The World”. The basics are all here: how to taste, wine styles, understanding labels, wine and food matching, health aspects. The work is completed by a glossary and an index. An engaging book for the novitiate in the wine appreciation business. QPR: 86. 17. VEGETARIAN FOOD FOR FRIENDS; simply spectacular recipes (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597- 391-9, $20.95 paper covers) is by Jane Noraika, Head Chef at London UK’s “Food for Thought” vegetarian resto. Her book was originally published in 2003 as “New Vegetarian Entertaining”; this is the paperback reprint, with some new material and re-thinking. Her chapters cover finger food, little meals and tapas, buffets, casual lunches, formal dinners, outdoors stuff, Sunday lunches, family dinners, and entertaining (summer and winter). There is a metric conversion chart at the back. QPR: 85. 18. HOW AND WHY TO BUILD A WINE CELLAR. 4th edition (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-891267-00-0, $34.95 paper covers) is by Richard M. Gold. It as first published in 1983 as “How and Why to Build a Passive Wine Cellar”, and revised over the years. The last edition was 1996. There’s little indication of much updating, except for some websites. And Gold starts offering his opinions in the last section, on “consuming” wine, most of which have little to do with building a wine cellar (e.g., psychology of wine tastings? Wine country travel? Medical matters? Wine snobs?). The first section deals with the principles of cellaring, the second section covers temperature, insulation, humidity, refrigeration, cooling, etc. Section Three is construction, and Section Four is acquiring wines for the cellar. The trick is to actually spot the wines worth cellaring at a fair price, and he gives current sources of information. An extremely worthwhile purchase if you don’t already have a previous edition. QPR: 93. 19. WILD BOUNTY COOKBOOK; simple & savory game cooking (Shady Oak Press, 2000, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58159-316-7, $19.95 paper covers) is by Jim and Ann Casada, who are South Carolinians that have written many game cookbooks. Here are 237 recipes for venison (catch all term for elk, caribou, deer, etc.), wild turkey, waterfowl, and upland birds and game. A full range of courses are here, from soups and stews and chili through salads (based on gathered greens, nuts and fruits) and desserts. City dwellers can try the raccoon recipes, or substitute pigeon for the birds, or dandelion greens in a salad. There is no mention of roadkill. All the recipes (2 to 4 to a page) are snappy and short. Uncomplicated food, and no fusion food. No metric conversion tables. QPR: 84. 20. THE VENISON SAUSAGE COOKBOOK; a complete guide from field to table (Lyons Press, 2002, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 283 pages, ISBN 978-1-59921-076-6, $37.50 paper covers) is by Harold Webster, a syndicated outdoors writer and game cooking school instructor. These 328 recipes have been re-issued in paperback format. This is a good book for hunters with a surplus of meat on their hands. Sausages freeze well and can be made in different flavours and seasonings. The three categories here are fresh, dried and cured. In addition to how to cook the sausage, he tells you how to make your own smokehouse and sausages. You can use any game; indeed, you can use any pork or beef too. There are 70 varieties of sausages followed by 100 pages of recipes. Many are knockoffs of pork sausage varieties from Europe. He has cooking and oven conversion tables. In many cases, you don’t actually need to make sausages with casings: bulk sausage will also do. QPR: 88. 21. FRESH FLAVORS OF INDIA (Conran Octopus, 1999, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84091-476-4, $25.95 paper covers) is by Das Sreedharan, co-owner of Rasa Restaurants in London, an operation specializing in the food of Kerala, India’s southernmost state. Logrolling is by Jamie Oliver. The original was published in 1999, with numerous reprints. This appears to be its first paperback edition. These are the light, home-style dishes of the author’s native Kerala. The vegetarian meals are complemented by a menu planner, for feasts, summer time, winter, brunch, quick foods, and even vegan menus. There are volume measurements only, but with no metric conversion tables. A glossary is included. QPR: 85. 22. CLASSIC COCKTAILS FROM AROUND THE WORLD (Hamlyn, 2004, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-600-61543-9, $16.95 paper covers) is by Allan Gage; it was originally published in 2004 as “Around the World in 80 Bars”. Hence, there are 80 recipes – one from each bar. The book is arranged by country, with a description of the bar and a photo of the cocktail. There is the usual history of cocktails, and a selection of non-alcoholic “mocktails”. QPR: 86. 23. MADHUR JAFFREY’S QUICK & EASY INDIAN COOKING (Chronicle Books, 1996, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 155 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5901-1, $22.95 paper covers) is by the well-known cookbook writer and actress, one who has won many prizes for her authoritative work on Indian cookery. This book, originally published in 1996, has sold 70,000 copies in North America. Here, it has been graphically changed in the layout and redesign, and all of the pictures are brand now. The seventy recipes are pretty basic, and most stress a prep of fewer than 30 minutes. The arrangement is by course, with menus included as well as breads, condiments, beverages and desserts. At the back there is a table of equivalents to cover all the US volume measurements used in the recipes. She also covers equipment, techniques and the pantry in the package. Typical meat preps include smothered lamb (which can also be used for beef or pork) and lamb or pork vindaloo. The book’s index covers ingredients, native name and English name. QPR: 87. 24. MINDLESS EATING; why we eat more than we think (Bantam Trade Paperback, 2007, 294 pages, ISBN 978-0-553-38448-2, $16 paper covers) is by Brian Wansink, a nutritional scientist teaching at Cornell University. He is also a food psychologist, and here he presents the case for what your favourite comfort food says about you, or if the size of your plate can influence your appetite, or even why you eat more when you dine with friends. Marketing and eating out play big, big roles. The book was originally published in hard covers in 2006; here, it is reissued, but with a 2007 postscript of some 15 pages. This is a Q and A section, based on what people have asked him on the lecture/bookstore circuit (why don’t you talk more about exercise? What’s the solution to mindless eating? Mindless eating in other countries, picky school kids, mindless drinking, and top dieting tips, etc.). Good large print, scholarly notes, index for retrieval, and the postscript make the book invaluable. For more details and a discussion forum, check out www.mindlesseating.org. QPR: 89. 25. THE PRODUCE BIBLE; essential ingredient information and more than 200 recipes for fruits, vegetables, herbs & nuts (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 448 pages, ISBN 978-1-58479- 599-5, $35.95 paper covers) is by Leanne Kitchen (great name). It was published in Australia by Murdoch Books in 2006; here, it has been reissued with a foreword by Deborah Madison, but surprisingly, the bibliography does not list any of here books!! 200 recipes cover 114 items than can be found as locally grown fresh produce at most farmers’ markets in season. The list of ingredients for each recipe is printed on screened beige ink, which makes it difficult to photocopy. I don’t advocate photocopying recipes EXCEPT when you actually want to prepare a dish and the book is awkward to hold, etc. This is such a book. She has the categories of food divided into fruit (citrus, soft, stone, tropical, pome), nuts, vegetables (roots and tubers, stems, bulbs, flowers, leaves, seeds, pods, fungi, etc.). Each item gets an indication of the seasonal availability, a description, selection and storage principles, varieties, and preparation (including 1 – 2 recipes each). In the case of avocados, we get avocado salsa and avocado salad. There are occasional cross-references to other recipes that use that produce. US weights and measures, but no metric conversion tables. QPR: 85. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JUNE 2007 ========================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: “Sharing a meal, sometimes sitting face to face with strangers, is a curious act that sets humans apart from all other animals on the planet” (Kate Colquhoun, Daily Telegraph). WARNING -- PRICE NOTE: All prices are as printed on the book’s cover. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations AND online discounts, plus the addition of GST, prices will vary upwards or downwards. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE NEW FRANCE; a complete guide to contemporary French wine. [revised edition] (Mitchell Beazley, 2006, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533- 000-5, $53) is by Andrew Jefford, the London Evening Standard's drink correspondent, award winner, and author of a few general wine books. Here (in this second edition of a 2002 book, with a price reduction from $70 to $53) he contributes to the advancement of wine literature by reporting on the changes in France over the past 35 years, the changes characterized by a drop in rigidity (the less you interfere the better) and a drop in the power of the co-operatives and negociants (they are definitely in decline). Small though these drops may be, the changes are very important for such a conservative wine country as France. Most of the rigidity comes from various interpretations of the bureaucratic AOC wine laws. Changes in the Rhone, for example, include the re-introduction of the Serine grape, a close relative of Syrah, but with less fruit and more smokey-fat. Jefford claims that the most influential French winemaker of the 1990s was Michel Rolland (Bon Pasteur, Pomerol) who, as a consultant, convinced many wineries to pick at full ripeness, do the MF in new oak, keep a hygienic cellar, and look to low-acidity, as well as micro-oxygenate to cure all ills – sort of like an aspirin. Jefford goes into good detail as he discusses the French wine laws and the issues behind terroir. He divides Gaul into 14 regions, treating each to a survey-summary of new activities, followed by profiles of leading winemakers and personalities with nice black and white photos of the people. This is followed by notes on terroir and a section called "flak", wherein he tackles the French and non-French perception of problems and solutions within each region. "Burgundy Flak", for example, is a solid "must read" for any wine person in the business -- like a breath of fresh air. Coverage of each region concludes with a directory of wineries (addresses and phone numbers) with a short description of changes, some tasting notes, and the evolution of styles of winemaking. "Garagistes" get their own section within Bordeaux. This book is also useful for coverage of usually ignored areas such as the Jura, the Savoie, Corsica, Provence, and Southwest France (not Languedoc-Roussillon). There are coloured maps for each of the regions and sub-regions, with detail on the scope of vineyards and showing AOC, VDQS, and vineyard coverage. Plus a glossary. The downside to this book: about half of the colour photos are tourist- like landscapes -- this space could have been put to better use with comments by non-French critics of French wines on the world stage, competition, and marketing. The upside to this book: the extensive index, and the vintage charts for minor regions such as the Jura, the Savoie, Corsica... Quality/Price Ratio rating: 90 * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. STREET FOOD; exploring the world’s most authentic tastes (DK Publishing, 2007, 234 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-2850-5, $27 hard covers) is by Tom Kime, who began life as a cook at London’s River Cafe. He has worked all over the world, most recently at Fortina Spa Resort on Malta. This is his second book (the first was the IACP-nominated “Balancing Flavors East and West”). It is arranged by continent, and Kime tries to relate this kind of food to its culture and climate. This is finger food, in small portions, all of it now called “tapas” by many restaurants. 90 recipes carry us through India, SEA, Latin America, and the Mediterranean. He has menu ideas and party ideas, picnics and BBQs, all with page references for easier retrieval and country of origin. The recipe table of contents resorts the food into topics of soups, salads, finger food, grilled items, breads, pastries, dips, sauces, and desserts. Both US and metric weights and measures are used. He concludes with a glossary and website listing. Audience and level of use: intermediate cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: luz biskwi (almond and cardamom bisquits), smoky roast eggplant dip; chicken-stuffed flat bread; chickpea fritters; savoury ricotta-filled pastries; sweet potatoes and pumpkin doughnuts. The downside to this book: This is great food for cooking at home, but do watch out when you are on the road. This needed to be emphasized. Also, where is meguez sausage? The upside to this book: there are lots of small but useful outdoor photos. There is an index to both indigenous name and to English- language name. Quality/Price Rating: 87. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. BRITISH COLUMBIA WINE COUNTRY. Revised & updated second edition (Whitecap Books, 2007, 264 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-803-5, $32.95 paper covers) is by John Schreiner, well-known west coast Canadian wine writer and Financial Post writer since 1961. This is his tenth book on Canadian wine, and as such it forms a bridge to his eagerly awaited revision to "The Wineries of British Columbia", due out in a year or so. This current book (originally published in 2003) is arranged by regions and sub-districts; there are 13 areas, including Vancouver Island, Fraser Valley, Okanagan Valley, etc. As Schreiner points out, there were 14 winery licenses in 1981. Now there over 175 licenses, including some fruit-only wineries -- and more are on the way. There will probably over 200 by the end of the 2008 tourist season. Pagination has also increased from 192 to 264, a whopping 75 pages or one-quarter in size. But the increase in price has been kept to only three dollars. Material in this book deals with wine touring, wine histories, and local terroir, plus, of course, gorgeous colour photos of the wineries and vineyards by Kevin Miller. There are also mainly black and white photos of the winemakers (so what happened here? Why no colour? too much purple skin tones for colour??). There are sketch maps showing rough locations, narrative prose for short accounts of each region and the wineries. For example, the chapter on Vancouver Island has a description for 29 wineries (up from 22 in the last edition). At the end of each region, the wineries are listed with names, addresses, phone numbers and websites. Not too cluttered a book, with all of it openly displayed on letter sized pages. The stories are all told, as a journalist would tell it, through the eyes of the winery owners and winemakers. The book is slick, glossy, with lots of colour, and concludes with an index of winery names (even to those which have ceased operations but are mentioned in the book), and people. Audience and level of use: travelers to BC, readers and consumers of BC wines. Some interesting or unusual facts: Vineyard manager Richard Cleave commenting on the Black Sage Road “If it wasn’t for the wine industry, this south end of the valley would be deader than a doornail” The downside to this book: there are no tasting notes! Nor even much mention of varietals. And there are no statistics for production, etc. The upside to this book: good journalistic style of feature writing. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 4. JOHN SCHREINER’S OKANAGAN WINE TOUR GUIDE. Revised and updated second edition (Whitecap, 2007, 264 pages, ISBN 1-55285-863-9, $19.95 paper covers) is by the renowned B.C. writer who has written many books about B.C. and Canadian wines, as well as snapping up major writing awards in this area. He’s been busy in the past few years, crafting works on Canadian wines (in general) and on BC wines. And he seems to have forgotten that he just wrote a book on Canadian wines for Mitchell Beazley and updated via Whitecap last year (there was no information about this on the current book’s cover or on the press releases). This latest is a tour guide, and includes the Similkameen Valley as well, which is the most southerly wine region in BC but only 5% the size of the Okanagan. Six wineries are described in that valley, but unfortunately there is just an insert map to the Similkameen. Schreiner describes the sub-regions, and this is followed by an alphabetical order to the 110 (up by eight) wineries themselves (including others not yet producing). For each, there is a description and commentary, followed by some specific but brief notes on a few of the wines. A picture of the owner and/or winemaker appears, as well as the date opened, address, phone numbers, website, and times of day open. Schreiner concludes with a vineyard census, general production figures, and a glossary of heavy-duty words such as “micro-oxygenation”. The publisher claims that Schreiner has added 30% new material to this second edition, yet the price has remained the same – 16 more pages were added. Audience and level of use: wine travelers to British Columbia and Okanagan Valley. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The most popular grape here is Merlot (17.26%), followed by Chardonnay (10.55%), Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon in a tie (9.04%), and Pinot Gris in a tie with Gewurztraminer (8.49%). The downside to this book: the black and white photos are on the dark side. The upside to this book: the index includes the names of grape varieties, so you can check out where to go next to pursue that oaky chardonnay. There are also tables on what grape varieties are growing where. Quality/Price Rating: 92. 5. RESTAURANT SUCCESS BY THE NUMBERS; a money-guy’s guide to opening the next new hot spot (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 244 pages, ISBN 978-1- 58008-663-9, $21.50 paper covers) is by Roger Fields, a CPA who, after ten years of counting beans, began to cook beans and other things in New York City and San Francisco. He’s opened four restaurants, and presumably he practices what he preaches. The book is billed as a “one- step guide to opening a restaurant”, albeit in an American context. He also offers anecdotal, real-life stories from his personal experiences, as well as start up stories from other owners and chefs. The book moves from concept creation to location choosing to menu design to ambience to staffing. He covers financial feasibility surveys, leases, and many other economic and business issues. The book is loaded with facts and figures, mainly US, plus tips and advice on how and where to locate, how to price, and how to hire. Audience and level of use: for those who want to open a restaurant, or are thinking about it. Some interesting or unusual facts: studies show that at least one-third of all new US restaurants fail in their first year, and that 2/3 of those that make it through their third year will survive until at least their tenth year. But then, these are gross figures, not broken down by type of resto. The downside to this book: limited use for Canada. Fields also does not cover shrinkage much, yet it is 100% loss of profit. In a marginal industry, shrinkage control (or lack of it) can make or break a restaurant. The upside to this book: Quality/Price Rating: 87. 6. ADVENTURES OF AN ITALIAN FOOD LOVER, with recipes from 254 of my very best friends (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307- 34639-1, $39.95 hard covers) is by Faith Heller Willinger, a food writer and cookbook author now living in Tuscany. Noted logrollers include Alice Waters herself and Mario Batali. Her book is a mix of recipes and travel tips, and she covers shops, outdoor markets, restaurants (50 of them), wine bars, accommodations (12), and wineries (12). It is arranged by region, approximately one-third devoted to “Northern and Central Italy”, one-third to “Southern Italy and the Islands”, and one-third to Tuscany. Unfortunately, for reasons of space, she had to omit Liguria and some other northern regions. All of the preps are tied into someone at the establishment; this is mostly home style food, with vignettes about people and places anchored by a recipe. This eclectic selection is also presented with vegetarian alternatives. Charming watercolours by her sister are interesting, but are non-food related for the most part. US measurements are employed, but there are no conversion tables for metric lovers. Audience and level of use: travelers, those seeking stories about Italian food and live. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: winter squash and cheese souffle with squash sauce; leek and sausage orzotto; Etruscan grape tart; bread crumbed baked fish; savory pecorino and pepper preserve pastries; orsarsa toast. The downside to this book: she has an excluded mix of Italian and English names for each recipe. Thus, she has not only “pasta and bean salad” (without the Italian) but also “paccheri di gragnano with fish ragu” (without the English). The upside to this book: there is a recipe index by region in addition to an index by ingredient and by name. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 7. RESTAURANT GRAPHICS (Laurence King Publishing, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-85669-508-4, $50 paper covers) is by Grant Gibson, a journalist and a design critic living in Europe. His book is all about image branding; it is as important as decor. The branding is everywhere – on the menu, the signage, the napkins, matchbooks, bags, sugar packets, business cards, etc. He profiles 37 designs in all. While is primarily a British book, the restaurants are from all over, including Sweden, France, UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Australia, Spain, Dubai, Japan, Singapore, and even Canada. Dufflet in Toronto makes it, with image branding and logo for bags, coffee cups, and sugar packets by Bruce Mau Design. There are 2 – 4 pages for each place, with a brief description, photo examples of branding, and an explanation by the designer. Audience and level of use: industry designers searching for new ideas. Some interesting or unusual facts: “The success and enduring appeal of restaurants depend much more on their decor and ambience than on the food that they serve.” The downside to this book: I wish that there was more American content. The upside to this book: there are contact details for the designers, with websites. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 8. THE FLEXITARIAN TABLE; inspired flexible meals for vegetarians, meat lovers, and everyone in between (Houghton Mifflin, 2007, 342 pages, ISBN 978-0-618-65865-7, $39.95 hard covers) is by Peter Berley, a well- known former chef and now cookbook author and magazine food writer. This is his third such book – his last one got both a Beard and an IACP. Yet he still needs logrolling from Rachel Ray (she brings comparisons to Mother Teresa and the Dalai Lama) and Mollie Katzen, Daniel Boulud, and even James Peterson. The book has been authored “with Zoe Singer” who is not identified, but is presumably a focusing writer. A “flexitarian” is an outer limit vegetarian operating on the fringes: a flexible vegetarian. It is also an excellent weasel word used to describe those eaters who consume more non-meat than meat. He has 150 recipes, sorted by 40 seasonally arranged menus (10 per season). All recipes can be mixed and matched, but of course should remain within the season if the principle of eating seasonally is to be followed. Thus, he has convertible meals that can be prepared with a vegetable and/or meat protein; some hearty vegetarian meals for the meat lover; and meals with fish, poultry, and some red meats, with ample veggie sides that could become mains when your back is turned. He has additional ideas for adding flesh and for getting dinners quickly. His main foods for heartiness include only organic or wild meats, beans and tofu, dairy and eggs, plus nuts and seeds. US volume measurements are used, but there are no metric tables of equivalents. Audience and level of use: cautious diners looking for ideas on what to feed their vegetarian friend while retaining meats for themselves. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: one menu has lentil and rhubarb curry with potatoes and peas, a cucumber lime raita, naan bread, and roasted spring carrots with cumin and lime. Another has roast duck with spiced red onion marmalade, goat cheese frittata, rice with herbs, and sautéed asparagus and fiddlehead ferns. The downside to this book: excessive acknowledgments to such as J.S. Bach (?) and Lennie Tristano (?), no metric tables. The upside to this book: of value is the fact that he has no desserts. The index is extensive. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 9. RAW FOOD MADE EASY for 1 or 2 people (Book Publishing Company, 2005; distr. Second Story Press, 199 pages, ISBN 978-157067-175-3, $21.95 paper covers) is by Jennifer Cornbleet, a Chicago-based cooking instructor (www.learnrawfood.com). She has 100 recipes plus variations. Certainly, any kin d of raw food served for one or two people is economical, practical, and quick to prepare. No dispute there, simplicity above all: there are no bad carbs and no bad fats, and you get better nutrition. She organizes by course (breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and desserts). She runs through the staples of weekly fresh groceries for one: apples, avocadoes, basil, bell peppers, carrots, celery, lettuce, etc. – 19 in all. For techniques, she covers juices and smoothie preps, soaking raw nuts and seeds, and making flourless pie shells and sandwiches (replace bread with romaine lettuce leaves). There is a glossary and a resources list for ingredients, useful if you live far away from a health food store. US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: beginner, curious, even lazy. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almond milk (plus variations of sesame milk, brazil nut milk, use of stevia); pressed cabbage; key lime tart; muesli and raw granola; vanilla ice cream. The downside to this book: no metric conversion tables. The upside to this book: no preachy tone, just use what raw stuff you want or need each week. Each prep outlines the equipment needed. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. THE ESSENTIAL BAKER; the comprehensive guide to baking with chocolate, fruit, nuts, spices, and other ingredients (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 645 pages, ISBN 978-0-7645-7645-4, $47.99 hard covers) is by Carole Bloom, a professional pastry chef and confectioner who has authored seven other dessert books. She’s also a magazine food writer. Her book is thorough and virtually complete, covering aspects of non- bread baking in a pedantic step-by-step way. Her explicit recipes are precise, detailed and long – almost goof proof. It weighs 3.75 pounds – and this is without clay-coated papers. The arrangement is by six baking ingredients. The first 250 pages deals with fruit, with sub- categories for stone fruit, apples and pears, citrus, berries, exotic fruit, dried fruit. The next 55 pages cover baking with nuts and seeds. There are 125 pages for dark, milk, and white chocolate, followed by 30 pages for dairy, 50 pages for spices, and 50 pages for beverages (coffee, tea, liqueurs, and spirits). US sources for ingredients and equipment are listed, and US weights and measurements are employed (with metric conversion tables). Audience and level of use: beginning bakers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: port chocolate mousse and macadamia nut tartlets; double peanut butter cookies; banana loaf cake with walnuts and dried apricots; quince galette; fresh peach coffee cake; fig and anise cake. The downside to this book: no discussion of sugar alternatives or substitutions. Just – “Never use sugar substitutes for baking...” The upside to this book: good reference book. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 11. THE ETHNIC PARIS COOKBOOK (DK Publishing, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-2645-7, $35 hard covers) is by Charlotte Puckette (owner of a Parisian catering company) and Olivia Kiang-Snaije (a journalist now working out of Paris). It purports to bring the French melting pot into your kitchen, with such accomplished logrollers as Jacques Pepin and Claudia Roden on the back covers. 100 recipes are sourced from places such as North Africa, “French Indonesia”, Caribbean and Latin America creole, “French West Africa”, and the Middle East – all the places French colonials visited and dominated. Apps, mains and desserts are here, as well as tagines, lamb mafe, and mezze. They give the names and addresses of the Parisian restaurants that serve the dishes; these are top and pricey places, not for the budget minded. They also cover shops and ethnic markets, although some US sources are indicated throughout the book. US weights and measures only are used, but there are no metric tables of equivalent measures. A glossary finishes off the book. Audience and level of use: the ethnically curious. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ouzi, couscous, Vietnamese spring rolls, Laotian beef salad, pho, mango puree on toast, chicken curry. The downside to this book: the pages can be too busy with drawings and hand lettering. The upside to this book: good topic for a cookbook. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. KITCHEN CON; writing on the restaurant racket (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 228 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-84085-6, $32.99 hard covers) is by Trevor White, a self-confessed poseur who has had a successful career as a restaurant critic. No chef dared to do any logrolling with him...The title is a riff on Anthony Bourdain’s “Kitchen Confidential”, and indeed, White does interview Bourdain: he provides a transcript, warts and all, for us to read. White’s book is from a UK and Irish perspective (he puts out a guide to Irish restaurants), with some material about the US based on a few trips he took almost ten years ago. Through it all, he produces anecdote after anecdote of incidences of graft and corruption in both the writing game and the restaurant game. He goes after both celebrity chefs AND celebrity food writers, with details of some lawsuits, the ins and outs of Michelin and Zagat, et al. In fact, he mixes in too many things as he flits through history (do we care about food criticism of 200 years ago?). He reproduces excerpts from scathing reviews that were published mostly in the UK. And he scores many points. Someone said “expectations play a role in taste evaluations, and ambience determines the taste and satisfaction of the food.” So when polled, 74 per cent of 100,000 Zagat readers cited poor service as a major flaw. Studies with chicken a la king as a dish showed that the exact same dish scored higher at a restaurant than when served in a cafeteria...and it REALLY scored higher in a palace of gastronomy. The exact same cheddar was served over three days, but was labeled supermarket, old, and gourmet on those days. Surprise: it tasted differently on each day. White offers mini-profiles of Gordon Ramsay, A.A. Gill, and Ruth Reichl. The importance of professional food writing (being paid by a media outlet) has been diminished in this century by the rise of food bloggers, Internet postings, web sites, etc. – some of which are commented on but none of which are actually sourced or located or provided with URLs by White. Food and wine bloggers today take on the industry in the same manner as Facebook’s cyberbullying. I cannot wait for THAT book. Hey Mal (Gremolata) – why not do it? Audience and level of use: quis custodiet custodies? Some interesting or unusual facts: “If the Roux brothers hadn’t come to Britain [in 1967], where would British chefs like Pierre Koffman, Rowley Leigh, Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, and Marco Pierre White have trained?” (p.74) The downside to this book: if only he could collate his points better. The book could use an editor, for there is too much rambling, ideas are strung together, and it needed a focus and shaping. The upside to this book: a backbiting tone of sarcasm? Some material on how to get a reservation in a restaurant and how to avoid the cozy relationship between judge and judged. Quality/Price Rating: 82 – better to get a copy at the library. 13. I LOVE COFFEE! Over 100 easy and delicious coffee drinks (Andrews McMeel, 2007; distr. Canada Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407- 6377-9, $20.95 paper covers) is by Susan Zimmer, who has worked for several coffee and espresso companies, developing recipes. The 100 preps here cover all types: hot coffee, ice and blended,, martini (can omit the alcohol if you want), seasonal and holiday drinks, syrups and creams. Other topics are equipment, types of coffee, decorating the drinks, need for service pieces. She uses a bold typeface for the ingredients listed in each recipe. Both US and metric weights and measures are given. She concludes with a bibliography of further readings, sources and resources, and some website listings. Portions of the proceeds from this book are being donated by the author to www.coffeekids.org. Audience and level of use: coffee fiends. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: toffee coffee latte; iced Moroccan; cappuccino smoothies; Caribbean coffee martini; orange delight latte; pumpkin cheese cake latte. The downside to this book: martini? Spare me... The upside to this book: there are two indexes, one general and one to the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 14. EASY MEDITERRANEAN; simple recipes from sunny shores (Ryland Peters & Small, 2007; dist. Thomas Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84597-377-3, $25.95 hard covers) is a collection of about 100 recipes from 11 authors who have written books for this publisher. Most of the preps are from Maxine Clark and Clare Ferguson. So it is an omnium gatherum in the truest anthological sense. Ryland has a whole series of “Easy” books, all at the same price, and all in this same format. All courses are covered, from apps to sweets, mainly from Southern France, Italy, Spain, Greece, Turkey, and Morocco. The major classics are here, with well-framed photos. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fish baked with lemon, oregano, and potatoes; Sicilian green vegetables; soupe au pistou; Spanish fish cakes; okra with dried limes; Turkish pizza turnover. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 15. MINDLESS EATING; why we eat more than we think (Random House Audio, 2007, RHCD 1048, abridged, 5.5 hours on 5 CDs, ISBN 978-0-7393-4037-9, $39.95 set) is by Brian Wansink, a food psychologist who is director of the Cornell University Food and Brand Lab. He’s a marketing and nutritional science prof. It’s a bit of a screed, read by the author himself, about why we may not realize how much we are eating, what we are eating, or – as he puts it – “why we are even eating at all”. After all, eating is a basic function, but sometimes it becomes all obsessive. His audiobook gives us the facts and lore that we’ll need in order to make healthier decisions and choices at the table, in the restaurant, out in the supermarket, and at the office. Wansink even says that we can lose ten to 20 pounds over a year, just by paying attention to details and not denying ourselves. The book has been abridged by Lynn Lauper, and the abridgement possibly improves on the original book by cutting to the chase. Audience and level of use: those who want a slow but steady weight loss. Some interesting or unusual facts: He’s written three professional books on food and consumer behaviour. The downside to this book: there is neither index nor table of contents to figure out where you are in the audiobook. The upside to this book: Quality/Price Rating: 88. 16. ASIAN BAR AND RESTAURANT DESIGN (Periplus Editions, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0407-3, $56.95 hard covers) is by Kim Inglis, who lives now in Singapore and specializes in local architecture-travel books. Here are 45 sleek bars, clubs and restaurants from SouthEast Asia, arranged by country or city of Bali, Bangkok, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore – all the places where the money is. Their interior design reflects a blend of Eastern aesthetics with Western technologies. Some similar designs are already in North America, and more are on the way. 31 designers are profiled: some are North American based, others are in the UK or France. A typical establishment has an entry of 4 pages: description of the place, comments by the designer, interior photos, and a floor plan. At the end, there are addresses and websites. Audience and level of use: the industry, travelers, designers. Some interesting or unusual facts: these places need to look fresh and original during both day and night. They’ll need constant ventilation, no big theme, dominating lighting patterns, and a discreet horizontal flow to the room. The downside to this book: there is no index to pull together common related elements such as entrances or approaches, lighting, etc. The upside to this book: this is a good book for the North American hospitality industry and architecture, a good beginning book and reference book. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 17. THE PERFECT SCOOP: ice creams, sorbets, granitas, and sweet accompaniments (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 246 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-808- 4, $31.50 hard covers) is by David Lebovitz, a pastry chef who had also worked at Chez Panisse for 12 years. Surprisingly, there is no logrolling from Alice Waters. He now lives in Paris, and this is his fourth book. Both classic and modern preps are covered here amongst the 200 recipes. Techniques, ingredients, and types of equipment are well- explored. Most recipes are accompanied by “Perfect Pairings” (variations, garnishes, and turning ices into glamourous desserts). Flavours are emphasized, with chocolate leading the list. There are also toasted nuts, vanilla, spices, sauces, toppings, and mix-ins. Most ice cream recipes call for eggs, mostly cooked egg custards. This is French-style ice cream, and it takes more work to do than Philadelphia- style which is made with just milk and/or cream. Both US and metric measurements are provided. Audience and level of use: beginners, ice cream fans, chocoholics. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: goat cheese ice cream; avocado ice cream; zabaglione gelato; pear-pecorino ice cream; green tea ice cream. The downside to this book: some preps seem labour-intensive (French style) but you are rewarded by their silkiness. The upside to this book: upscale, sophisticated book. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 18. RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase “mouth-watering recipes” as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them all. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – 19. AT HOME WITH MAGNOLIA; classic American recipes from the owner of Magnolia Bakery (John Wiley & Sons, 2006, 157 pages, ISBN 978-0-471- 75137-3, $35.99 hard covers) is by Allysa Torey, who opened Magnolia Bakery in New York’s Greenwich Village in 1996. She had also authored “The Magnolia Bakery Cookbook” (1999) and “More from Magnolia” (2004). This time the book is an all-purpose cookbook of family dishes, ones she uses at her upstate New York home. As such it is trading in on the Magnolia name. There’s nothing wrong with that, so long as the purchaser/reader of the book knows that the recipes here are not just for baked goods. 93 preps cover all courses (it’s arranged that way), and deal with retro-styled comfort food – such as corn fritters with chile-lime mayonnaise, eggplant with cherry tomato sauce, tomato lentil soup with spinach and corn and brown rice, baked vegetable cavatappi with besciamella sauce, chicken with mustard cream sauce. While the preps are expressed in US weights and measures, there are no metric tables of equivalents. A bonus: the index is in large print. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 20. VIJ’S ELEGANT & INSPIRED INDIAN CUISINE (Douglas & McIntyre, 2006, 205 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-184-0, $40 paper covers) is by Vikram Vij who opened Vij’s Restaurant (which is named after his grandfather) in 1994. Earlier he had worked for several restaurants in Europe and Canada; he also now has his sommelier certification. 80 recipes come from his operation, with 10 more for signature spice mixes at Vijs. He covers the basics (mainly herbs and spices) plus ingredients and equipment; there are also some suggested menu combinations. The book is upscale in presentation and oversized. There are lots of descriptions of the restaurant and its unique pottery dishes, decor, etc. Typical dishes include oven-braised goat meat in fennel and curry, seared striped bass, and grilled chicken breast in lemon-ghee dressing. Each prep has a generic wine recommendation by varietal and region, such as a California zinfandel. This is useful, but he could also have used more BC wines as alternate choices. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 21. COOKING WITHOUT FUSS (Pavillion, 2005, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-86205-765-4, $22.95 paper covers) is by Jonny Haughton. He’s the owner-chef of The Havelock Tavern in London’s Brook Green; the 100 recipes in this book are some of the most popular ones from that restaurant. It has the feel of upscale British pub grub, with creations such as smoked haddock gratin, potato gnocchi, or chicken and Parma ham terrine, beet and celeriac and bacon soup. This is a UK book, with suppliers and resources from the UK, and all the recipes in metric. It also has a faulty index: “aubergine, sweet potato and cauliflower curry” is indexed ONLY under “potato” and “cauliflower”. There is no entry for sweet potato or aubergine, and certainly no cross-reference from eggplant. Quality/Price Ratio: 80. 22. MODERN THAI FOOD; 100 simple and delicious recipes from Sydney’s famous Longrain Restaurant (Periplus, 2003, 2007; distr. Ten Speed Press, 177 pages, ISBN 978-0-7946-0487-5, $31.50 hard covers) is by Martin Boetz, executive chef and co-owner of Longrain in both Sydney and Melbourne. Drinks are by Sam Christie, sommelier and maitre d’ and co-owner of the same restaurant. The 100 preps here are “recreated and streamlined for the home cook”, as the book says, with 15 contemporary cocktail recipes from the bar. There is an illustrated glossary and food and wine pairing principles. Recipes include chili jam, green curry paste (and other curry pastes), egg wet rolls with pork and shrimp, red curry duck, and calamari with sweet soy and ginger. Both US and metric measurements are given for each ingredient. There are large type fonts, and great close-up photos. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 23. REFRESH; contemporary vegan recipes from the award-winning Fresh restaurants (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 212 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-84084- 9, $28.99 paper covers) is by Ruth Tal, owner of three locations of Fresh (in Toronto), with recipe development by Jennifer Houston. This is the second edition of “Juice for Life: modern food and luscious juice” published in 2000. In the meantime, the restaurants had moved and reopened with new names, such as Fresh on Bloor. The website, confusingly enough, retains the same title: www.juiceforlife.com. The recipes here are what is currently being served at the restaurant; hence, the mushroom pizza is gone (it used to be one of my faves and the fave of my server). Vegan principles here are observed. There are 75 pages for juices such as fruit smoothies, veggie cocktails, shakes, elixirs, wheatgrass concoctions. The menu food of 115 pages details 94 dishes, sauces, brunches, and desserts. 17 supplements and herbal tinctures, all of which are to be added to juices, are discussed. There is a bibliography and a glossary. Typical dishes include a flu fighter cocktail, a detox cocktail, green goddess rice bowl, portobello and walnut salad, rainforest stir-fry, and curried garbanzos. While there is general index and a recipe index (allowing you to go directly to your fave off the menu), there is no ingredient index. US weights and measures, but no metric tables of equivalents. Quality/Price Ratio: 85. 24. FRESH; seasonal recipes made with local foods (Douglas & McIntyre, 2007, 194 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-245-8, $34.95 paper covers) is by John Bishop, with Dennis Green and Dawne Gourley, and stories by Gary King. Bishop opened his eponymous restaurant in 1985, and has since authored three other cookbooks from Bishop’s menus. Green and Gourley currently work at Bishop’s (he’s chef, she’s pastry chef) and have also contributed to prior cookbooks. This work comes with strong logrolling from Jamie Kennedy, David Wood (now an artisanal cheesemaker), and James Mackinnon, co-author of BC’s “The 100-Mile Diet”. The book makes a point of having a sustainable kitchen at the restaurant and at your home as well. It is arranged by season, spring through winter. 100 recipes are complemented by anecdotes about the people in the West Coast food business. Some dishes here include honey pound cake, nut roast with mushroom and sweet onion gravy, and lamb shoulder with Dupuy lentil stew and zucchini ragout. US weights and measures are used, with two pages for metric conversion tables. Worth a look. Quality/Price Ratio: 82. 25. WHITE HOUSE CHEF; eleven years, two presidents, one kitchen (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 328 pages, ISBN 978-0-471-79842-2, $29.99 hard covers) is by Walter Scheib, a long-time corporate chef who ran the White House kitchens for 11 years. His collaborator is Andrew Friedman who has done this sort of work for many other chefs (more than 15 books). Currently, Scheib runs theamericanchef.com, a catering- consulting-cooking class company. Here is life at the Executive Mansion, with tons of anecdotes. Ultimately, he was let go, but because he did not “resign”, he was publicly “fired” and not given a letter of recommendation. Thus the book covers from his audition process to his controversial departure. He was chef for the Clintons and the Bushes. Talk about two different lifestyles and two different White House kitchens! The range is from midnight snacks to state dinners for 700 people, holiday menus for several thousand guests, and family dinners. He has a classic description of 9/11, with staff evacuations and feeding several hundred security and rescue personnel. Read all about the gossip and the pecking order at the White House through the topical index. Typical preps here include acorn squash gnocchi, grilled artichokes and roasted peppers, Texas green chile and hominy casserole, garlic polenta, and grilled chicken breasts with lemon pasta and broccoli. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 26. WHERE PEOPLE FEAST; an indigenous people’s cookbook (Arsenal Press, 2007, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-221-0, $24.95 paper covers) is by Dolly and Annie Watts (respectively, mother and daughter) who used to run the Liliget Feast House in Vancouver for 12 years (Dolly closed it in 2007). This is the only First Nations fine dining establishment of its kind, garnering a four star review in the New York Times. In 2004, Dolly was declared winner on an episode of “Iron Chef”. Canadian West Coast native cuisine depends on seafood, game, fruits and veggies). Thus, there are 150 preps here for oolichans, venison, grouse, salmon, crab, and berries (among other foods). Plus suggestions and substitutions where appropriate. Thus, there are 8 bannock recipes, 12 blackberry, 12 raspberry, 11 wild rice, 17 salmon, and 14 venison (I counted them on your behalf). The recipes are mainly US measures with no tables of metric equivalents, but lengths and weights are in both US and metric, all of it a little confusing. Some typos include “445” grams in a pound, and the index is – strangely – in one column on each page. Preps include Indian (their term) tacos, wild shepherd’s pie, crabapple and raspberry jam, alder-grilled butternut squash, and wild buffalo burgers. Quality/Price Rating: 88. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR MAY 2007 ========================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first this thought: “An anthropological analysis found that more than a third of us reject slippery food like oysters and okra. Twenty per cent of us don’t like our foods to touch on the plate. An equal number of us eat from a palate of 10 or fewer foods.” (Psychology Today, 2007). – sounds like some great cookbook ideas here! ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ OZ CLARKE’S BORDEAUX; the wines, the vineyards, the winemakers (Harcourt Inc., 2006; distr. Raincoast, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-15- 101300-5. $43.95 hard covers) is by the ever-accessible Oz Clarke, who has been following in every wine writer’s footsteps (Johnson, Robinson, et al) in popularizing wine lore. This latest book is being touted as an “insider’s guide”, with profiles of the leading chateaux. Clarke is master of the dictionary arrangement; indeed, his company is known as “Webster”. The main book is arranged by region: Medoc, Graves, Right Bank, Cotes and Entre Deux Mers, and Sweeties. Each has its own A – Z reviews of important chateaux. Internal cross-references are useful, but of course there is an overall index at the back of the book. For each chateau, there is a label and generic tasting notes with an indication of “best years”. The grapes used are listed. In the beginning basic data chapters, Clarke runs through why Bordeaux matters, grapes, styles, effect of Mouton Cadet, second wines produced, viticulture, vinification, reading the label, and the effects of Emile Peynaud and Michel Rolland, a student of Peynaud. There are aerial maps and lots of overview photos. He concludes with an interesting chapter on the future of Bordeaux. The 2003 vintage was a revelation, especially in sales. There are profound changes augmented by the Robert Parker fruit bombs, and a declining market for sales. Audience and level of use: Bordeaux lovers, armchair tourists, libraries, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: Bordeaux has 57 appellations, 250 classed growth wines, 10,500 growers, and produces over 800 million bottles of wine a year. The downside to this book: too many pix of Ozzie. Some typos (e.g., weened), vintage table only goes back to 1985 (it should go back to 1970, still in the marketplace). The upside to this book: Clarke is open to suggestions about Bordeaux look-alikes in other countries. He uses lots of photos and colour in the affordable book. Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ THE OXFORD COMPANION TO AMERICAN FOOD AND DRINK (Oxford University Press, 2007, 693 pages, ISBN 978-0-19-530796-2, $64.95 hard covers) has been edited by Andrew F. Smith who teaches culinary history and professional food writing at the New School University in Manhattan. He has written several books on food, consults to a wide ranging group of food media (University of Illinois, Food Network, History Channel), and, more importantly, also edited the two-volume “Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America” upon which this one volume Companion builds. The basic definition for inclusion here is: food and beverage consumed in the US. So there is nothing here for Canada or Latin America, except for what creeps across the borders. There are 1,000 articles, mainly popular material, with hundreds of historical photos (many in colour). Over 200 contributors wrote for this book; all the articles are sourced by author. Smith himself, as most editors do, wrote about 150 articles. Types of entries include political and social movements such as temperance, Prohibition, vegetarians, organic food, and slow food (covered, of course, as Slow Food USA); chronological surveys of US history; product entries on a specific food or drink; contributions of ethnic groups; biographies of 58 important people (chefs, inventors, restaurateurs, scientists); and corporate histories of commercial products (including junk foods and fast foods). All of it formatted in dictionary A – Z arrangement. There are even some recipes for food and drink. Thus, you will find material about vichyssoise, macaroni and cheese, hush puppies, chitterlings, American chop suey, Central Asian food, Tupperware, anadama bread, wedding cakes. This is a typical Oxford Companion production which sells quite well at this price level (it is cheaper on Amazon.Ca, with free postage). Audience and level of use: foodies, libraries, curious. Some interesting or unusual facts: The entry for U is for Uncle Ben, plus some cross-references. The entry for Z is Zombie (the drink). The entry for Y has Martin Yan, yeast, Yum! Brands, yummasetti (now a baked Amish casserole). The downside to this book: nothing on Canada, which is okay since it falls outside the scope of the book. The upside to this book: there is a topical outline by subject, and an index. The book is easy to read in its three column layout. The paper is heavy and substantial to feel. There are plenty of cross-references and bibliographies. Quality/Price Rating: 95. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTHER FOOD AND WINE BOOKS THIS MONTH: WINE MARKETING & SALES; success strategies for a saturated market (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2007, 347 pages, ISBN 978-1-891267-99-4, $85.95 hard covers) is by Paul Wagner (who teaches in a wine program at Napa Valley College), Janeen Olsen and Liz Thach (the latter two are both marketing professors at Sonoma State University, which has just announced in June a brand-new MBA program in wine marketing). This book is primarily useful for the free enterprise US market, with almost 10,000 wineries and over 60,000 labels on the shelves from domestic and import wineries. But it has some good things for the liquor monopoly systems. Currently, it is mainly a textbook for wine users or students at marketing school, embracing shelf knowledge. It is set up in textbook style, with an outline of definite points to be covered in each chapter, end notes for sources and for further reading, and websites. And it is loaded with tips and anecdotes on the business of selling wine. The book is extremely useful for winery owners and staff who also lack formal marketing training. Most wineries are small, and lack such staff. Indeed, the pages on tasting room operations should prove to be a boon for any winery, including those in Ontario and British Columbia. The authors come down hard on the ignorance of winery employees in the tasting room and in the cellar. These are the front line sellers of wine. The table of contents concern the basic principles of marketing, such as finding your own niche; the demographics of wine drinkers (why who drinks what and when); wine branding, advertising, promotion, public relations for image enhancements; graphic design and packaging, especially for labels; budgeting and pricing; selling and distribution; establishing a tasting room; wine exporting and importing strategies; and turnarounds and re- positioning especially for the future. The fundamentals are emphasized: catchy labels, good publicity, and distribution to the right places. But in addition to a lack of details on state monopolies (e.g., Pennsylvania), there are also no details on recycling or reuse or the environment as sales issues. And nothing on phenomenon such as Yellow Tail. The authors concede that wine marketing is slow, the US laws are complicated, and there are vintage transitions where there are brand new products each and every year. Audience and level of use: libraries, marketers, wine readers. Some interesting or unusual facts: a new winery opens every eight hours in the USA. Winemakers have become retailers (selling directly to consumers); retailers have become brand managers (Costco, Wal-Mart). There is virtually no consumer brand loyalty in wine. The downside to this book: only some application to the Canadian market – we have no sales in Canada. It could have been better for us if the authors had put in material about state monopolies such as Pennsylvania, or more details about American ABC stores. Also, there are some typos: is it 5300 wineries or 9300 wineries in the US (p.13, 23). A semicolon is used instead of a colon at one point, and “wok” is used for “work”. Brutal pricing, but then it is an allowable business expense if you are in the industry... The upside to this book: large print, easy to read. Quality/Price Rating: 88. ELEMENTS OF THE TABLE (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0- 307-33933-1, $19.95 hard covers) is by Lynn Rosen, author of “The Dinner Party”. She calls it a simple guide for hosts and guests, but stressing elegance in the table settings. There are clear explanations, historical anecdotes, and provenances for various items. Place settings are diagrammed; serving pieces are outlined. And it is all arranged by category, to cover linens (napery), etiquette, china service of place settings and service pieces, silver, crystal, table decor (place cards, centerpieces, and napkin folding). There are lots of small photos, but the picture of the flatware at rest is wrong, at least in terms of the written description. Audience and level of use: those who like to be perfect – or almost so. Some interesting or unusual facts: there is a bibliography and an index. The downside to this book: the napkin folding section is one-sixth of the book, 20 pages. This material can be found in many other free- standing napkin books, and just takes pages away from the more important “elements”. The upside to this book: quite a lot is covered here. Quality/Price Rating: 89. TEA PARTY; 20 themed tea parties with recipes for every occasion, from fabulous showers to intimate gatherings (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-34643-8, $35 hard covers) is by Tracy Stern, who owns a tea salon in Manhattan and has a product line devoted to tea accoutrements. There is some basic data on tea traditions and on the teas themselves, as well as a resource list for floral designers, invitations, party supplies, tabletop service, and other accessories. Her themes include a Moroccan Valentine’s Day, a Chai Breakfast Tea, showers (baby, bridal), small gatherings, a Mad Hatter party for a birthday, and a Mother’s Day tea. She has menus, tips and advice to save time, some suggested decorations, creative invitations, and notes on plating food. Most service is for six to eight, and uses US weights and measures. Audience and level of use: party lovers, tea fans, those needing menus. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the artist tea menu (for a patron sponsoring the arts) includes Ceylon tea, wine, Ceylon cheese crisps, Ceylon tea steak au poivre with garlic cream sauce, potato fries, frisee salad, Ceylon tea-scented crème brulee. The downside to this book: no metric equivalence tables. The upside to this book: the food could serve as a light meal. A very colourful book, loaded with bright useful photos. Quality/Price Rating: 84. FIELD GUIDE TO SEAFOOD (Quirk Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 309 pages, ISBN 978—1-59474-135-7, $19.95 paper covers) is by Aliza Green, coauthor of the James Beard Award-winning cookbook “Ceviche!” 100 different kinds are covered, including fish, mollusks, and crustaceans. The book is one of a series of “field guides” from Quirk; the others deal with meat, herbs, produce, and cocktails. For each, she gives a description with names in different languages, season available, how it is sold, how to select it, how to cook it, and what flavours work best with each fish. It is pocket sized, so you can carry it around conveniently. All seafood has some photo ID in a colour plate section, not next to the description. She concludes with special chapters on preserved fish and seafood, as well as other water creatures such as frog legs, sea cucumber, sea urchin, and even turtle. Green has compiled a list of books and websites. As well, there are tables of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: those who need guidance on seafood, libraries, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes: there is one basic recipe per seafood item. The downside to this book: nothing really. The upside to this book: quite packed with details, well-indexed. Quality/Price Rating: 89. THE TEXAS COWBOY COOKBOOK (Broadway Books, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7679-2149-7, $22 paper covers) is by Robb Walsh, author of four previous Texas cookbooks; he is also food critic for the “Houston Press”. The subtitle neatly explains the book: a history in recipes and photos. There are about 100 recipes. He covers Texas lore and myths in his approach to cowboy cooking. The Mexican vaqueros brought a chile- based cuisine. Of the black cowboys (25% of cowboys were black), many ended up as most of the cooks. There were some cowgirls too. Thus, the cooking was a blend of Cs: Chile-Cajun-Caribbean. Quite a lot of the book deals with meats and poultry and one-pots and stews. Chuck wagons are here, as well as the issue of fresh supplies. There are hundreds of archival photos, plus a resources guide and bibliography for further reading. There are even reproductions of Western comic book covers. Looking at this book’s cover, I see that the book has been logrolled by John Thorne: where has he been??? Audience and level of use: armchair cowboys Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sourdoughs, pico de gallo, cowboy beans, charro beans, rabbit stewed in red chile sauce, fried catfish. The downside to this book: really heavy and substantial food, which may not be for everyone. US weights and measures, with no metric tables. The upside to this book: a useful book for the guy cook. Quality/Price Rating: 83. GREEN MANGOES AND LEMON GRASS; Southeast Asia’s best recipes from Bangkok to Bali (Periplus Tuttle, 2003, 2007, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0- 7946-0230-7, $30.95 paper covers) is by Wendy Hutton, a New Zealand food writer who specializes in Southeast Asian food. It was originally published in 2003 but has now been introduced to North America through Tuttle. She gives us an SEA culinary tour through Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. Her introductory essay characterizes the culinary similarities and differences of the region. There is a bit of fusion here in that Hutton recommends French bread and sauvignon blanc wine to go with the mussels and lemongrass. The arrangement is by course, with recipes listed in both English and the native transliteration. Both Imperial and metric measurements are used in each dish. Prep and cooking times are clearly indicated, and there are copious cook’s notes. The concluding glossary has informative photos. Audience and level of use: collectors of SEA books. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Cambodia’s food is perhaps the most pure in the region, using fewer introduced ingredients than its neighbors”. The downside to this book: native SEA names are not indexed. The book is a very heavy paperback, a bit unwieldy. The upside to this book: each recipe has a picture. Quality/Price Rating: 86. ELEGANT SMALL HOTELS; a connoisseur’s guide. 21st annual edition. (Lanier Publishing, 2007; distr. Ten Speed Press, 212 pages, ISBN 978- 1-58008-809-1, $24.95 paper covers) was originally first published in 1986, and annually ever since. The book deals with mainly American hotels, with a smattering of other countries. For example, Canada has four listings (Wickaninnish Inn, Abigail’s Hotel, and Victoria Regent – all in BC; Hotel Nelligan is in Montreal), while Italy has seven and the Caribbean/Central America has eight listings. For each carefully chosen hotel, there is one page with a description, names and numbers to access, prices, attractions, services, restrictions, concierge, food and bar facilities, plus business and spa facilities. The criteria for inclusion are “exquisitely appointed” guest rooms and suites, architecture, service, cuisine, and ambience of the public areas. Other books deal with B & B and country inns; this book fulfills a need for a range of hotels between the spread. Audience and level of use: travelers with money, business clients. Some interesting or unusual facts: there is an interactive version at www.elegantsmallhotel.com. The downside to this book: no index. Also, I am not sure what her criteria are for foreign hotels, and how they measure up to “domestic” or American hotels. The upside to this book: useful category for lodging assessment. Quality/Price Rating: 88. THE COMPLETE MIDDLE EAST COOKBOOK (Tuttle, 2006, 374 pages, ISBN 978-0- 8048-3876-4, $37.50 paper covers) is by Tess Mallos, food consultant and food writer. It was originally published in 1979. The entire area is covered, from Egypt to Afghanistan (which really stands out as different since it has more in common with Pakistan). Greece is also included. The arrangement is by country, with a short culinary history for each. The recipes have a mix of US volume and metric weights, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Over 600 recipes are included, including a range involving lsanat mtabbh (lamb tongue salad, calling for 10 of the little things) and lamb brains. Usually, there are two recipes to a page. Audience and level of use: Middle East cooks. The downside to this book: a weight heavy book, and consequently, a bit unwieldy. The upside to this book: index refers to both native language and to English language for the names of dishes. Quality/Price Rating: 86. THE FOOD OF SPAIN & PORTUGAL (Kyle Cathie, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-712-0, $34.95 paper covers) is by Elisabeth Luard, a food writer specializing in the Iberian peninsula. It is a reprint of the 2004 edition which I never got to review. It won a Gourmand World Cookbook Award for 2004. There are 140 pages for Spain, and 70 for Portugal. She arranges her work by region, with twelve chapters for Spain and nine for Portugal. Each has some notes on the regional character. With more than one recipe per page, there are lots of national and regional dishes. Both Imperial and metric measurements are used for the ingredients. Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, cooks who like Iberian food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for Portugal, there is lombo de porco, bolinhos de bacalhau, egg custard with almonds. For Spain, there are calamars mallorquina, spinach pizzetas, and arrebossat de conill. The downside to this book: too many non-food pictures. The upside to this book: good database of recipes, good food styling. Quality/Price Rating: 89, HOW TO PICK A PEACH; the search for flavor from farm to table (Houghton Mifflin, 2007, 412 pages, ISBN 978-0-618-46348-0, $35.95 hard covers) is by Russ Parsons, food and wine columnist of the Los Angeles Times. He is also a multiple James Beard and IACP winner. Parsons emphasizes basic principles, such as “good cooking starts with the right ingredients” or “eat seasonally and locally”. By now, these are all givens and do not bear repeating. Logrolling comes from Deborah Madison, Thomas Keller, Judy Rodgers, and others: but why? Parsons is a big enough name in his own right...He goes on to detail individual profiles of fruits and veggies, including some informative food history and data, as well as scary modern agriculture techniques. For each food he also tells a bit about how to choose, how to store, and how to prepare. The book is logically arranged by season. For Spring, there are artichokes, asparagus, leeks and garlic (ramps, anyone?), peas, salad greens, and then strawberries. Summer brings corn, cukes, eggplants, tomatoes, etc. Forty-three foods are presented. While he calls strawberries, “the parsley of the breakfast plate”, he does not go into the fact that they are the most heavily sprayed fruit in the world. Audience and level of use: concerned food lovers. Some interesting or unusual facts: “When you start with good ingredients, you finish with great dishes. The better the raw materials, the simpler the recipes can be.” The downside to this book: there’s a lot of obvious stuff here. At the same time, he leaves out rhubarb and apricots, both popular items (he does say that there aren’t any good apricots left). Also, he doesn’t devote enough space to organic principles. The upside to this book: there is a separate alphabetical listing of all the fruit and veggies here, with page references, and a list of 85 recipes sorted by category, again with page references. Quality/Price Rating: 87. NOBODY DOES IT BETTER...; why French home cooking is still the best in the world (Kyle Cathie, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 223 pages, ISBN 978-1- 85626-616-1, $39.95 hard covers) is by Trish Deseine, a multiple-award winning cookbook author and magazine food columnist. She is one of France’s best-known food writers. Here she tries to explain what happens in a French home as far as cooking goes. She wants us all to know the classics, hot to steal from chefs, and how to “rise to the occasion”. She gives her top 20 recipes for the classic dinner party. Recipes use metric ingredient measures but with teaspoons for small volumes. Just some words of caution: they don’t cook like this all over France. The French do not eat outside their region, so, for example, some Alsatian dishes are not going to turn up in Provence, and vice versa. There is no national cuisine in France, but the sum total of the regions can be to our advantage in North America or the UK. Audience and level of use: those who love French cooking Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pintadeau roti aux poivrons braises; foie gras with overripe figs; ravioli de betteraves et comte aux poires; chestnut veloute with sea urchin butter; Basque peppers stuffed with mashed cod, garlic and potatoes; crepes suzette; pot au feu. The downside to this book: never really answers the question “why” – it might be the best in temperate lands, but only because other cuisines can be so uninspiring (as British food can be). The upside to this book: Deseine did her own food styling. Quality/Price Rating: 86. OZ CLARKE’S GRAPES AND WINES; the definitive guide to the world’s great grapes and the wines they make (Harcourt Inc., 2007, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-15-603291-9, $31.95 paper covers) is yet another accessible wine book by Oz Clarke. It first came out in 2001, with a revised edition in 2003. Here is its first paperback appearance, revised yet again, this time for 2007. Seventeen grapes are covered in depth, with material on tradition, innovation, viticulture and vinification methods, and contrasting wine styles in a global context. Actually, I would add Pinot Gris to his list, to make it an even 18. He’s too tied into the UK: pinot gris has swept North America for a few years now. Clarke also has details about 15 more grapes, a sort of a second tier. The dictionary arrangement covers 300 grapes over 260 pages. The basics are in the first 32 pages...The classic grape book is of course Jancis Robinson’s “Guide to Wine Grapes” published in 1996 by Oxford University Press and now out-of-print. Clarke’s book is a suitable replacement, but strangely, he doesn’t even mention Robinson’s book in his bibliography. Not everything is perfect here. He has no main entry on the white varietal “Auxerrois” (which should be news to Ontario’s Chateau des Charmes winery). The red varietal of the same name is mentioned, but not the white strain. Yet – it is the white which is referred to in other parts of the book (I looked it up). The distinction between “Shiraz” and “Syrah” needs closer definition. On the label, the former term is used for the fruit-forward Australian- style quaffing drink, while “Syrah” is normally used for the Euro-style or Rhone food wine. For example, Stellenzicht in South Africa makes both syrah and shiraz in two different styles, and it is labeled thusly. At the back, Clarke has an index of grape names and their synonyms, as well as a glossary of technical terms. Just like Robinson, Clarke has a European wine decoder that lists which grapes go into which wine. But unlike Robinson, he doesn’t cover Croatian wines. Audience and level of use: wine lovers who also like to approach their wines by grape variety. It might have been useful to have some production figures, but maybe the publisher thought that that might date the book. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Vernaccia wines are found all over Italy, but to try and relate them to each other is often a waste of time”. The downside to this book: There is just a brief mention of terroir and yeasts. And the bibliography shows no sign of updating. The upside to this book: lots of small but useful colour photos. Quality/Price Rating: 86. THE BIG BOOK OF THAI CURRIES (Kyle Cathie, 2007; dist. Raincoast, 175 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-689-5, $39.95 hard covers) is by Vatcharin Bhumichitr, a restaurateur in London, Miami, and Thailand. He has written many Thai and South-East Asian cookbooks. This is yet another, but the theme here is the specific nature of Thai curries. This is a regional book; different areas make different curries. He gives recipes for the basic curries, such as green curry paste, red curry, orange curry, massaman, penang, jungle curry, kua – eight in all. Plus a section on pickles. The introductory material is delivered in a Q and A format, covering ingredients and techniques. Courses include snacks, poultry, meat, fish, veggies and fruit, with two recipes to a page. The difference between Thai curries and Indian curries is that in Thailand, the curries are always made from fresh herbs and spices, with coconut milk. Veggies are served with the meat or fish. In India, dried spices are complemented with yoghurt or ghee, and the veggies are served separately. Audience and level of use: Thai and curry lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roast duck with lychee curry; spicy crispy noodles; pork penang curry; grilled beef curry with figs. The downside to this book: some fresh ingredients may be hard to get in the hinterlands. The upside to this book: There is an index in both Thai and British (e.g., aubergines). There is a metric conversion table for weights and volumes. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them all. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – * ROSA’S NEW MEXICAN TABLE (Artisan, 2007; distr. T. Allen, 278 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-324-8, $45 hard covers) is by Roberto Santibanez, current executive chef of Rosa Mexicano in Manhattan. The restaurant wants to expand to 14 locations by 2008. It has been in Manhattan for a quarter of a century, and this “mediagenic” chef now serves one million meals a year. The book’s title is very confusing: is this a book about New Mexican cooking from the state of New Mexico (that initially got my attention: I love New Mexican food)? No, it is essentially a book about what’s “new” in Mexican cooking. We’ve seen it all before...The updated classics here include tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, torta, ensaladas, etc. For festive dinners, he suggests a taco party, a cocktail party, vegetarian dinner, and BBQ. Modern recipes involve the likes of shrimp with crabmeat. There are chapters on the basics of preparing tortillas, cooking with chiles, stuffing enchiladas, making Mexican rice, and slow-cooking pork. The book is being pushed as “home-cook-friendly”, and that may very well be with its roasts, adobos, and rubs. The publisher has US volume ingredients but no metric tables of equivalents. There is a source list and a Spanish-English index. Unfortunately, there is also an excessive use of colour which makes the book appear too party-ish. Despite its title, this is a basic Mexican cookbook, useful for fans or beginners. Quality/Price Rating: 82. * SMALL BITES BIG NIGHTS (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0- 307-33793-1, $38 hard covers) is by Govind Armstrong, executive chef and co-owner of Table 8 restaurants in Los Angeles and Miami, and soon to be a presence in Las Vegas and New York City. Food editors Ann Wycoff and Alison Steingold assisted. His restaurant’s theme is small plates and cocktails. He began working for Wolfgang Puck at age 13, and the original forward to this book was supposed to be written by Puck (as announced). But for some reason, Puck was replaced by Tyler Florence (who he?). Most recipes in the book serve eight; there is an annoying use of the number “8” to stand in for “-ate”, as in educ8, l8, d8. Does Table 8 mean a table for eight? Or is it a stand in for “tabulate”, as in adding up the prices. Each recipe has an expression of its difficulty level. Chapters cover the pantry (basic sauces and mixes listing 75 items to have on hand all the time), hors d’oeuvres [sic], grills, dinners, comfort foods, savouries. There are only a half dozen desserts. The resource list is mostly Californian, not much use to Canadians. Some items are hard to buy: do you have a source for squab liver? Typical dishes include sea scallop carpaccio, grilled chicken thighs, panna cotta, lamb osso buco, roasted sunchoke soup. While this is a stylish, good-looking book, there are too many pictures of the chef and there are some typos (p.25: how much olive oil?). Still, you can use the book for ideas. Quality/Price Rating: 83. * THE YOUNG MAN & THE SEA; recipes & crispy fish tales from Esca (Artisan, 2007; distr. Thomas Allen 253 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-276-0, $45 hard covers) is by David Pasternack and Ed Levine. Pasternack is chef of Esca, an Italian seafood resto in NYC. This fish book comes with the logrolling of Mario Batali (actually, Mario may be a partner in the operation – this is unclear), Anthony Bourdain (who endorses everybody anyway), Daniel Boulud, and Ruth Reichl. Pasternack is best- known for his Italian-style sushi, which he calls “crudo”: quality raw fish with crunchy sea salt and fresh citrus juice. His chapters include crudo, pasta, grills, pan-frying, and some shellfish. Indeed, most of the past recipes here call for shellfish and not finfish. There is yellowtail with spaghetti squash (no pasta here!), a baccala (salt cod) salad, spaghetti with tuna meatballs, fettucine with shrimp (in diverse styles), and marinated sardines with roasted eggplant. There are good cook notes, gastroporn photos, and a slight sources list (where do you, as a private consumer, get ultra-fresh fish – of all kinds - outside of NYC?). US volume measurements are used for the ingredients, but there are no tables of metric equivalents. Most disappointing: there are no wine recommendations. Quality/Price Rating: 85. * HONGA’S LOTUS PETAL; pan-Asian cuisine (Gibbs Smith, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 232 pages, ISBN 978-1-58685-893-3, $37.95 hard covers) is by Honga Im Hopgood, with Lise Waring (a focusing professional writer and editor living in Telluride). At age 26, Hopgood opened her restaurant in Telluride, Colorado, a “trendy” ski resort town, although I know it better as a bluegrass festival town. Previously, she had operated a street cart in Telluride, saved her money, and then opened her resto 16 years ago! It is basically “pan-Asian fusion”, which means lots of SEA ingredients all mixed in. It also embraces “global fusion” with its recipes such as Asian gazpacho, Asian cioppino, Asian fish tacos, and blackened tofu. Through her sushi and curries, and adroit use of vegetables, she manages to employ food from China, Vietnam, India, Polynesia, Japan, Thailand, et al. Her main focuses on the ingredients are that they be organic or natural, hormone-free, sustainable, and similar green patterns. Which is hard to do at heights of 8,000 feet. Brian Hartman created many of the recipes in this book while working as the head chef. There are many little dishes, such as laab (an open ended Thai salad), smoked salmon rangoons, and poke (Asian ceviche). Indeed, these are elegant, upscale, versions of Asiatic street food. The print is large, and the material is well-laid out and photographed. There is a glossary, resources list, and metric conversion charts for the US volume measurements used. Quality/Price Rating: 89. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR APRIL 2007 =========================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words: “There are two types of poor cookbooks: those which have problems and those which are problems” (Anon.) ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE ART AND SCIENCE OF WINE (Firefly Books, 2007, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-247-7, $29.95 paper covers) was originally published in 1992; it has been revised and updated to a 2007 copyright date. James Halliday is Oz’s answer to Hugh Johnson; Hugh Johnson is the main guru of wine writing in the UK. Between them they have been responsible for about 100 books on wine, and they have judged several thousand wines. To summarize the book, I’ll take this quote from the Library of Congress: “An overview of the subtle artistry and sophisticated science of the winemaking process from the vineyard to the bottle. Explores factors affecting the growing and harvesting of grapes, describes the various kinds of wines, and discusses the chemistry and analysis of wine”. The book is divided into three parts. One deals with the vineyards (vines, terroir, microclimates, grape varieties, pestilence, irrigation, mechanization), another with the winery (regional characteristics, oaking, styles of wines from light to full and fortifieds), and the third part deals with the bottle (analysis of wine, aging, faults, manipulation). A basic glossary and index concludes the book. The essential differences between New and Old world winemaking styles are explored: the Old world is limited by laws and traditions, while the New world winemakers can do virtually anything they want. Names and reputations are based solely on the selection process of choosing what goes into the bottle. Audience and level of use: an extremely useful book for the beginning wine student, and an aide memoire for the experienced hand. Some interesting or unusual facts: the book has been completely re- written to take into account New world production methods, using screw caps, the art of terroir, and changes in pruning and irrigation techniques. The downside to this book: there should have been material about chemical additives. We all know that most New world and many Old world producers goose up their wines’ body, flavour, smoothness, and ageing by adding such things as Tanin Plus, glycerine, and the like – all of which is supposedly harmless to our bodies, but none of it recognized or sanctioned by any wine regulating body. I’m just waiting for the day when an expose happens. The 2003 vintage in Europe was such a stunner in sculpting basic New world-style wines (and gaining that audience in the New world) that it would hard to go back to normal wines in a normal year. I taste thousands of wines a year, and already I can taste atypical tones in some 2004 and 2005 European wines, tones which remind me of the 2003 vintage and of the New world style. The upside to this book: more than 200 colour photos and illustrations, coupled with occasional anecdotes. A good basic oversized paperback book, well-worth the money (Amazon.Ca offers it for $18.87) Quality/Price Rating: 95. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. SUPER NATURAL COOKING (Celestial Arts, 2007; distr. Ten Speed Press, 215 pages, ISBN 978-1-58761-275-6, $24.95) is by Heidi Swanson, a food website creator and a cookbook author. “Natural Cooking” occurs five ways (and the book is arranged thusly with separate chapters for each): eat from a colourful plate; use all kinds of whole grains; use organic natural sweeteners; consume healthy oils (mostly organic); and eat phytonutrient-packed ingredients and foods. She has 80 recipes plus details for beginning a pantry. This is not a diet book. These are everyday recipes, very good for work nights during the week. You can see www.101cookbooks.com (her website) for more recipes and other techniques. Organic food is commonly available throughout North America, with community supported agriculture (CSAs), farmers’ market, and natural food stores. All measurements are by US volume, with no tables of metric equivalents. This is not a complete cookbook: you’ll still need to find some more vegetables, meats, fish and seafood. But it does do an excellent job of concentrating on grains, oils and sweets – which many people forget about. Audience and level of use: those concerned about their food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: toasted wheat germ soup; sprouted garbanzo burgers; seed-crusted amaranth biscuits; creamy wild rice soup with sweet potato croutons; fig spread with black pepper and toasted sesame seeds; black tea spring rolls. The downside to this book: there is no mention of wheat alternatives (spelt, kamut), or of stevia as a sweetener (neither negative nor positive). The upside to this book: thick, sturdy pages, good coverage of “teff”. Quality/Price Rating: 89. ======================================================================= 3. 5 SPICES, 50 DISHES; simple Indian recipes using five common spices (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 132 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118- 5342-2, $23.95 paper covers) is by Ruta Kahate, a cooking teacher specializing in Indian cuisine and a free-lance writer. The 50 recipes here cover modern Indian cooking. The five spices (not used in every dish, of course) are coriander seeds, cumin, mustard seeds, cayenne, and turmeric. She recommends buying them whole and then grinding them yourself. You can also fry them to enhance their flavours, and make pastes. She also gives us 12 menu suggestions, all with page references, and plenty of cook’s notes. In scope, the book covers 12 veggies, 4 dals, 7 beef and lamb, 4 chicken, 7 seafood, 9 salads, 7 rice and breads, plus – over the fifty mark – some sweets and chai. Audience and level of use: beginner level, lovers of Indian food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: corn with mustard seeds; Anglo-Indian beef stir fry; shrimp cakes with ginger and cilantro; crunchy cucumber salad with crushed peanuts. The upside to this book: there are tables of metric equivalents at the back of the book. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 4. COOK THE PERFECT...(DK Books, 2007, 223 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-2624- 2, $30 hard covers) is by Marcus Wareing (owner-chef of Petrus in London UK), with Jeni Wright as the focusing food writer. This is a deconstruction of more than 80 classic recipes, with step-by-step techniques. All courses are covered: breakfasts, mains, stews, dips, spreads, desserts. He gives 10 tips for success, such as proper planning, having a pantry available, good shopping, preparation work, etc. But while he gives details on how to prepare a roast belly of pork (trendy, trendy), he doesn’t have a comparable prep for the equally trendy veal or beef cheeks. Both US and metric measurements are listed for ingredients, but this is erratic. It is mostly US volume measurements (with a handful of metric) with US and metric weight measurements. This can be frustrating. Audience and level of use: beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: topics include pancakes, roast chicken, searing a tuna steak, shortbreads, poached eggs, French onion soup The downside to this book: there are too many photos of the chef. There is also not much ethnic food – it is mostly Western European. There is excessive use of colour pages, which is distracting. The upside to this book: great colour photography, decent price. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. THE MARTHA’S VINEYARD TABLE (Chronicle books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 204 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-4999-9, $43.95 hard covers) is by Jessica B. Harris, a college professor who has authored nine cookbooks on African-American foods. Here she writes about the foods of Martha’s Vineyards, where her family has vacationed for about 100 years. It manages to couple both tourism and food. Historical roots here are deep, from the Wampanoag natives to the Portuguese, the African- Americans, the Yankee New Englanders, and the Jamaicans. Her topics are arranged by courses, from appetizers (also called “porch” foods) to sweets and beverages, with plenty of cook notes and tips. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: travelers, collectors of regional cookbooks, fans of Martha’s Vineyard. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: corn pudding; codfish fritters; boa noite; Jamaican red pea soup with spinners; Portuguese kale soup; blue cheese burgers; scallop rolls. The downside to this book: food sources listed are all US, not useful to Canadians. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents at the end. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 6. 30-MINUTE ASIAN MEALS; 250 quick, tasty and healthy recipes from around Asia (Tuttle Publishing, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-8048-3692- 0, $27.95 soft covers) is by Marie Wilson, who has written other Asiatic cookbooks. It suffers because almost ALL Asiatic food can really be cooked in under 30 minutes anyway -- So what’s the point in her book? Well, her basic premise is to set the rice on the flame, then go to the other ingredients. Then, they’ll both be ready at the same time. Fair enough. Her book is arranged by country, and embraces all of the oriental countries of China, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, plus Malaysia, Singapore, Philippines, Indonesia, and India. So that’s about 25 recipes per country, on average. There is also a broad range of dishes, including meats, poultry, seafood, veggies, and eggs, soups and salads. She discusses basic techniques and has a shopping list of key ingredients for each country. Variations are included. The food glossary includes substitutions. The recipes use both US and metric measurements, but erratically for the volumes: sometimes mL are used, sometimes they aren’t. Audience and level of use: basic, beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from Singapore, there is chicken braised with onions, fried egg noodles, chili crab, pan-fried fish Nonya style, shrimp curry, and squid in coconut milk (among others). The downside to this book: recipes can run over pages. The upside to this book: the index has recipes by country, by title, and by major ingredients. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 7. PROVENCE A-Z (Random House Audiobooks, 2006, “unabridged selections”, 3.5 hours on 3 CDs, ISBN 978-0-7393-4025-5, $26.95 set) is a reference set by Peter Mayle. Organized from A – Z, it covers a wealth of material about Provence, material that has been collected for the past 20 years by the King of Provence Life Style. His subjects are diverse: architecture, expats, local Provencal characters, lavender, legends, linguistic oddities, wild boars, winds (think Mistral), and food and wine. A reasonably good guidebook although there is no index. Nor is there a list of contents, so I really cannot say what was omitted from the book. At least the selections are supposed to be “unabridged”. And Peter Mayle does his own reading. Audience and level of use: Mayle lovers of humour. Some interesting or unusual facts: Mayle has now written 11 books on Provence, and was recently awarded the Legion d’Honneur. The downside to this CD set: no reference points The upside to this CD set: a good selection of humour. Quality/Price Rating: bargain price, 90. 8. CALIFORNIA’S CENTRAL COAST; the ultimate winery guide (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 120 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5167-1, $27.95 paper covers) is by Mira Advani Honeycutt, a wine and cuisine consultant and writer living in Los Angeles. Kirk Irwin is the photographer. The book, which also serves as a directory with profiles of 30 wineries, covers from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles. In addition to wine and food, architecture and scenery are also portrayed. The 13 wineries in Santa Barbara and 17 in San Luis Obispo are augmented by a directory of other wineries in the region (with names and addresses and websites). And 9. PACIFIC NORTHWEST; the ultimate winery guide (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 120 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5529-7, $27.95 paper covers) is by Christina Melander, a Portland, Oregon-based freelance food and wine writer. Janis Miglavs is the photographer. The book, which also serves as a directory with profiles of 30 wineries, covers Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia. In addition to wine and food, architecture and scenery are also portrayed. The wineries in British Columbia include Burrowing Owl, Gray Monk, Mission Hill, Summerhill Pyramid, and Tinhorn Creek. More wineries are listed in the directory, with all their names and addresses and websites. Both books are similar. The introductory material includes notes on why take a tour, and what to look for in wine tours, how to make the most of it. The time of year is important too. There are notes on tasting wines and regional characteristics, plus cooking in the region (specialties and restaurant listings). Each profiled winery gets a description and a photo, basic directory data, hours open and tasting fees, picnic areas, and access. There are general and slight locational maps. Each book has a resources list of travel bureaux, farmers markets, museums, wine centers, books and periodicals, plus a glossary of terms. Now we need one for Niagara and New York State... Audience and level of use: travelers Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: this is a popular series of travel, food and wine books. The Ultimate Winery Guide series (with Napa and Sonoma already out) has sold over 100,000 copies. The downside to this book: large square paperback format makes it unwieldy to carry about. You probably should leave it in your car. Also, there are no tasting notes at all. The upside to this book: great photos. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 10. JERK FROM JAMAICA; barbecue Caribbean style. Rev. ed. (Ten Speed Press, 2007, 178 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-842-8, $23.95 paper covers) is by Helen Willinsky, a native of Jamaica. Her book was originally published in 1990 as “Jerk: Barbecue from Jamaica”. I guess it was re- titled so as to clarify that Jamaica is actually in the Caribbean (why else would they do it?). Unless they are trying to turn the book into a Caribbean cookbook...The 100 recipes here (including a dozen newer ones since 1990) are illustrated with 50 full-colour pictures: on location shots of markets and jerk pits, and food styling. Willinsky’s recipes are also for drinks, sides, sauces and desserts. Introductory material begins with a history of jerk and techniques. Jerk huts are everywhere in Jamaica. The ingredient listings in the preps use US volume measurements. She ends with a bibliography and websites listing for food resources. Audience and level of use: BBQ lovers, jerk lovers, Caribbean food fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sorrel drink; Jamaican ginger beer; Jamaican corn pone; jerked baked black beans; lamb fajitas; plus jerked BBQ ribs, chicken wings, pork chops, etc. The downside to this book: there is no metric table of equivalents. The upside to this book: good layout. Her previous edition sold about 75,000 copies. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 11. FOOD AND BEVERAGE COST CONTROL. 4th ed. (John Wiley & Sons, 2008 [sic], 587 pages plus CD-ROM, ISBN 978-0-471-69417-5, $149.22) last came out in 2004. It has been updated, with a new CD-ROM. We all know that there are razor-thin profits in the food hospitality industry. Such outlets embrace all types of restaurants, bars, sports complexes, grocery stores, room service, country clubs, banquet halls, etc. This book emphasizes the need for control, in order to maximize profits and minimize shrinkage. Its contents cover managing as a Food and Beverage Manager (basic accounting, forecasting, predicting sales), the cost of food, storage, and inventory – with plenty of forms to view. More chapters cover the cost of beverages, labour, and “administration”. Another part of the book deals with pricing, analyzing charts, and verifying data. There is information on security, such as dishonest employees, false invoices, scams, skips, and the like. For example, chapter four is on beverage control (42 pages). This is mainly booze control for all of the industry as noted above. There is how to forecast sales of beer, wine (wine by the glass, too), spirits, cocktails and their mixes. All of it applies to standardized drinks and portions, markups, constructing a wine list, storage and inventory, and to the ubiquitous forms. Forms are available for finding how to compare the costs of beverages. I’m not sure how much of the record keeping applies to Canada, since there are provincial regulations on what has to be recorded for government inspectors and revenue filing. Anyway, the appendices have all of the useful formulae plus 55 pages of management control forms which you can photocopy or scan for your own use, and of course they can be modified for local requirements. As a textbook for the hospitality schools, it fulfills its functions: there are questions and answers for students to discuss and then to apply. Each chapter has lists of key terms and concepts, plus selected tests for you to try out. Additional readings are also suggested. It also now has a companion CD-ROM with Excel spreadsheets for all the “Test Your Skills” exercises in the book. And, if you are a teacher, there is an Instructor’s Manual and a Study Guide. Audience and level of use: hospitality school textbook, good review for current employers in the food industry, basic reference book for Food and Beverage Managers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the copyright date should be 2007. The downside to this book: pricey, but thorough. It may be dismaying to students but businesses can write if off as an expense. In content, there is very little coverage of shrinkage or theft. I just read a biography of Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, a very progressive restaurant in terms of staff happiness, salaries, recognition, benefits, etc. Yet they still managed, at one point, to “lose” about 500 bottles of wine a month. This became part of their annual $150,000 “loss” which could not be accounted for. The upside to this book: glossary and bibliography, plus key websites for exploring. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 12. YAN-KIT'S CLASSIC CHINESE COOKBOOK. Rev. ed. (DK Books, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-2351-7, $24 hard covers) was written by the late Yan-Kit So in 1984, and then revised in 1998 and 2006 – although it is difficult to surmise under what pretext she could also assume a 2006 copyright since she died in 2001. Her estate, maybe, but not she herself. Here are 140 preps, from different regions, set up as a course book with step-by-step instructions. It says that it is a visual guide to ingredients, equipment, and techniques. All courses are covered in the basic recipes, followed by regional menus with page references, regions in which local food character is explored. For what it is worth, the transliterated names have not been updated since the earlier edition. Hence, Beijing is still Peking (as in Peking duck). There is a concluding glossary, and a menu for “mixed” food regions. Audience and level of use: beginners in Chinese food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the Peking menu has mandarin pancakes, Peking duck (with Cantonese duck as a variation), deep-fried cabbage greens, fish in a wine sauce, pickled cabbage, and Chinese celery cabbage, plus rice, soup and dessert. The downside to this book: the ingredients have both metric and US measurements, but only for weights. Volume is still expressed as US measurements, and there is no table of equivalents. This can be confusing for a cook using metric. The upside to this book: basic book, useful. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 13. THE BOOK OF YIELDS; accuracy in food costing and purchasing. 7th edition. (John Wiley & Sons, 2008 [sic], 287 pages, ISBN 978-0-471- 74590-7, spiral bound paperback, $45.99) was last available as a sixth edition in 2004. It has been put together by Francis T. Lynch, a professional chef and hospitality teacher now at chefdesk.com. It is a basic work for students and chefs, and it comes with a workbook. It tells you what you need to know for “how much food to buy”. It is a collection of accurate food measurements for over 1,000 or so raw food ingredients. Measurements are given in weight-to-volume equivalents, trim yields, and cooking yields. Part One of the contents covers herbs and spices, produce, starchy foods, baking, fats and oils, dairy, beverages, meats, seafood, and poultry. Part Two is the workbook of costing sheets and conversion tables. Here, recipe cost and yield are most important. Spreadsheets, though, should be able to handle all of this. There is other information on food prep, purchasing decisions, and cost controls, as well as the proper use of cans and scoops and pans. Other material related to the book can be found at www.wiley.com. New to this edition are more foods covered in the Food Prices section (mainly Latin and Asian foods), as well as new ethnic food entries in the Condiments section. Audience and level of use: schools of hospitality, food libraries, any restaurant doing a volume business. Some interesting or unusual facts: the copyright date should be 2007. Take-home food left from an eat-in dinner (doggie bags) and patrons asking for extras will increase your bill. The downside to this book: Only US measurements are given, so you will need to convert to metric or imperial. That is why a spreadsheet works better than paper and pen. What I do like about this book: handy spiral bound format. It comes with an instructor’s manual for schools and a CD-ROM (separately priced). Quality-to-Price Ratio: 90. 14. HOW TO ZEST A LEMON; basic cooking techniques (and recipes) from A to Z (Sterling Publishing, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-1443-6, $16.95 paper covers) is by Kim Upton, a former food writer with the Chicago Sun-Times and now editor of FoodStyles, the syndicated food package for newspapers published by Tribune Media Services. Food package? Reminds me of all those starving reporters chasing stories...She ranges from “Aerating” to “Zesting”, covering braising, caramelizing, deglazing, emulsifying, poaching, searing. She usually has one recipe per technique, with entertaining tips, six menus (with page references), and photos illustrating most techniques. US volume measurements are used for ingredients, Audience and level of use: beginners, even sub-beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for blanching she uses a peach crostata; for mincing, a pasta with garlic and bacon; for roasting, rosemary chicken. The downside to this book: nothing really, it does its basics. The upside to this book: the last page has a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 15. EVERYDAY PASTA (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-307- 34658-2, $39.95 hard covers) is by the surprising Giada De Laurentiis, a Roman-born personality (Food Network, Spago, movie land) who can actually cook and is serious about her food. This is her third book. She covers baked and stuffed pastas, pastas with sauces, pasta soups, and pasta salads. She encourages the use of fresh pasta for ravioli and layered foods; you can make it yourself (recipe provided) or buy the sheets. Most dishes are all-in-one meals, but she does give some appetizers, sides and salads, which eats into the number of recipes here. There are fewer than 100 actual pasta recipes. There are only three pages on Italian wine with pasta, covering the 29 major Italian grape varieties. She gives us ten major pasta cooking tips, and covers eleven basic pasta shapes. Thirteen menus are given, with page references (game night, kids’ favourites, Sunday afternoon lunch, make ahead dinner party, etc.). There are US volume measurements given for the ingredients, but no metric table of equivalents. Audience and level of use: fans of the Food Network, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: baked caprese salad; spaghetti with pinot grigio and seafood; linguine with butter, pecorino, arugula, and black pepper; baked penne with roasted vegetables; white bean, pancetta, and tortellini soup; ribollita. The downside to this book: no matter how you cut it, it is still improbable that a book about everyday pasta should cost $40 – you can get the same value from any Sunset book under $10 (I still use mine, bought in 1971 for $1.95). The upside to this book: large type face Quality/Price Rating: 83. 16. THE WINEMAKER’S ANSWER BOOK (Storey Publishing, 2007; distr. Thomas Allen, 384 pages, ISBN 978-1-58017-656-9, $19.95 paper covers) is by Alison Crowe, a graduate of UC Davis wine school and a longtime columnist for WineMaker magazine: she wrote the “Wine Wizard” column incognito since 1998. This book promises to have solutions to every problem, and answers to every question. It is a reference book for home winemakers who make wine in small batches. The format is Q and A, based mostly on eight years worth of her columns. The questions have been re- sorted by topic, such as the basics of winemaking, using the proper equipment, making wine from fresh grapes or from concentrates, wine chemistry, yeast, fermentation, aging and oaking, filtering, bottling, problems, evaluating and serving. There are good sections on additives, fruit and mead wines, malolactic fermentation, fortified wines, and sparkling wines. Other material deals with adjusting acid, washing bottles, and identifying grapes. She concludes with a glossary and a bibliography of websites, books, periodicals, suppliers of equipment, oaks, and yeast. Audience and level of use: home winemakers, the curious. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: it is very strange that there is not much discussion on many additives, such as Tanin Plus, flavour enhancers, and the like. The downside to this book: needs more material on additives. The upside to this book: good handy shape, browsable with an index. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 17. WHAT’S A COOK TO DO? (Artisan Press, 2007; distr. Thomas Allen, 422 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-318-7, $21.95 paper covers) is a basic reference book by James Peterson, who has written nine other cookbooks (most of them seem to have won major awards). This one promises to be an illustrated guide to 484 essential tools, tips, techniques and tricks. It was originally announced as “500 Kitchen Answers”, but I guess Peterson fell short by 16 entries, and with truth-in-labeling ethics, the publisher changed the title to more accurately reflect the contents. Still, it made me wonder why he couldn’t just find 16 more tricks – to pad the book out to a round 500. Who knows? The book is a collection of “how to” items, with the contents arranged by tools and techniques (first 80 pages) followed by food ingredient (eggs to veggies to meat to broths to desserts to beverage) through another 300 or so pages. Some selected procedures include how to shuck an oyster, how to form crystal-clear ice cubes, brine pork, refresh a stale cake, tell the age of a mushroom, peel fava beans, carve a turkey, season a cast-iron skillet, order wine in a restaurant, and how to position a wine glass. Audience and level of use: basic reference book with dozens of recipes, useful for the beginner or the curious. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: There are 533 step-by-step colour photos plus some basic recipes in this straightforward book, which was based on Peterson’s 40 years experience and his many students. The downside to this book: all of the tips are numbered, but the index only refers to pages – and this has not been pointed out to the reader. The upside to this book: a very handy portable format, good for a quick read by browsing. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 18. COMPLETE TRADITIONAL RECIPE BOOK (The National Trust, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 336 pages, ISBN 9781905400423, $56 hard covers) has been collated by Sarah Edington, a food writer and caterer with clients such as the National Trust and the V & A. She also leads tours of historic kitchens. She has written four earlier (1986 – 1992) books for the National Trust, but this one seems to be the most “complete” since it draws on those four sources. 24 recipes come from the Trust itself, while the rest are hers (except for 7 from Laura Mason). This is a straight forward book, ranging from soups to “confectionary”. These are supposed to be the best 300 recipes from the National Trust; they form a collection of the best known British food preps. Each recipe has some provenance, but not too much. Some preps are accompanied by colour photos. The appendices deal with cooking techniques, the National Trust food policy (farm foods emphasized, about the same as Slow Food and Oldways). Recipes are easy to use. Ingredients are expressed in both Imperial and metric measurements, and there is a conversion chart for the US reader who needs volume measurements. Still, the book seems pitched to those who would visit the National Trusts, and seems quite suitable as a fund raiser. Audience and level of use: those interested in British cooking. Some interesting recipes: bread and butter pudding, kedgeree, soused mackerel, pickled herring, chicken and ham pie, gooseberry sauce, shepherd’s pie (quite correctly using lamb: Cottage Pie is the one which uses beef), toad in the hole, lemonade. The downside to this book: brutal price in Canada. The upside to this book: there is a modest bibliography. The type font is quite large, which is useful for failing eyes. But the book is quite heavy (1.5 kilos) for failing muscles... Quality/Price Rating: 83. 19. KING OF THE MAITRE D’S; secrets of almost fifty years inside the famous Imperial Room of the Fairmont Royal York Hotel (Rain Publishing, 2007, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-897381-06-9, $36.99 hard covers) is by Louis Janetta, the former Maitre d’ of the Imperial Room. Minor conflict of interest disclaimer: my mother was a friend of Louis from the old days, when he was but a mere Captain in the Imperial Room...This is an interesting read. Most memoirs in foodland seem to come from chefs and hospitality writers (wine, food, travel). Rarely do we see a front of house memoir, although there are the occasional books authored by owners. Here, Louis recounts his early life in Italy, his immigration to Toronto at the age of seven, his tough growing up period in the Dirty Thirties, and his first real job: busboy at the Royal York in 1942 (he lied about his age: he should have been 16, but he was actually 14). As the book says, “Ironically, most of his life would be spent in the first building he’d seen [i.e. the Royal York] when he walked out of Union Station at seven years old.” His style is anecdotal, with stories of people who got into snits and threw trays, crap games and card games, eating on the job and shrinkage. He has details about the 20 to 30 semi-residents who had permanent rooms and ate almost daily in the hotel. He has a multitude of stories about celebrities, but very little to say on Gino Emprey except “many differences” – and even that was written after Gino passed on. There must be more to this story...Many of his thoughts have been grouped by type of act; hence, all the big bands are together, the groups, the female singers, the male singers, the comics, the movie stars, the politicians and royalty. He gave Zoltan Szabo, Toronto’s hottest sommelier, his first job (dishwasher) at a time when Zoltan spoke no English. Louis moved on to SkyDome in 1990 and began writing his memoirs (originally slated for publication by McClelland and Stewart), and then he opened his own restaurant. Throughout the book there are tips on how to be a bus boy, a waiter, a captain, a room server, and a maitre d’, almost like a training manual. Audience and level of use: curious food readers, industry workers, hospitality schools looking for job insights. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “Everybody did it. I used to eat ice cream when nobody was looking. But the personnel manager came by one day and saw me eating a baked potato. My punishment was to leave room service and go back to the Imperial Room.” The downside to this book: it still needs some editing for tightness, polish, and focus, but then here it is warts and all. There are some spelling errors (“Mervish”, “McLelland”) and knowledge errors (he or somebody calls this book a “novel” on p.113). Also, the layout has no margins or gutters, leaving a long line of type to read. The lack of a name index is frustrating, for it is impossible to read what Louis has to say about people without flipping through the book. The upside to this book: lots of photos and details about celebrities. Quality/Price Rating: available from www.rainbooks.com, 87. 20. RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them all. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – * KILLER PIES; delicious recipes from North America’s favorite restaurants (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-932855-57-9, $19.95 spiral bound) is by Stephanie Anderson, a food and lifestyle writer who had a previous book (Killer Chili) in this series. The idea behind the series is quite good: collect and collate recipes from diners and other straight ahead places which still make what they sell. Other books in the series have included ribs and chili. Here, 50 diners, cafes, bakeries, and restaurants in North America contribute recipes. The preps are re-sorted by region (Northeast, South, Midwest, West, and Canada). Canada has nine entries, including Wanda’s Pie in the Sky in Toronto (no longer open, although Wanda is still catering elsewhere). There’s a colour photo for each entry, only some pictures are of the diner location and not of the actual pie. The text has a mini-history of each establishment. The Canadian preps include an almond chocolate pie, a Saskatoon berry pie, a maple walnut pie, a frozen peanut butter pie, a raspberry-rhubarb pie, a maple syrup pie. There are basic pie notes for recipes and techniques. All the ingredients are measured by US volumes, even the ones from Canada, and there is no metric table of equivalents. The spiral binding is great for laying out the book and having the recipe accessible. QPR: 87. * IN THE KENNEDY KITCHEN; recipes and recollections of a great American family (DK Publishing, 2007, 255 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-2642-6, $42 hard covers) is by Neil Connolly, formerly private chef to Rose Kennedy (1983-1995) and executive chef for all major family entertaining and special events, especially at the Hyannis Port Compound. Other non- recipe matters have been crafted by Susan Wyler and by novelist Elizabeth Benedict. Senator Ted Kennedy hired Connolly to prepare all the meals: specialty occasions, celebrity dinners, fund-raisers, beach parties, regular meals, spontaneous sessions, and even boat lunches. The 175 recipes here cover all courses as basic preps for large gatherings, but there is an emphasis on soups, chowders, and seafood. The text covers the history of the Kennedy Compound, with anecdotes from Connolly. The recipes are somewhat basic, covering Irish lamb stew, baked brie wrapped in filo, crab cakes, and the marvelous garlic- cheese crostini (a mayonnaise, parmesan, onion-garlic concoction that my wife grew up with in the US Midwest). The recipes have large print, and the measurements are all US with no table of metric equivalents. The book comes with scrumptious photos of the Compound and the Kennedys: it is a great souvenir for the Kennedy collector. The index covers both the recipes and the Kennedys, although some food details appear to be lacking and there are no inverted headings (“Homemade” should not be indexed under “H”), Picky, picky, picky by me, but then this is all basic stuff. QPR: 84. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR MARCH 2007 =========================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, this message from George Bernard Shaw: “There is no love sincerer than the love of food”. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. WOMEN OF THE VINE; inside the world of women who make, taste, and enjoy wine (Wiley Publishing, 2007, 242 pages, ISBN 0-470-06801-9, $19.99 paper covers) is by Deborah Brenner, a wine negociant and owner of Women of the Vine Cellars. The book is written from a female viewpoint, and covers winemakers, academics (e.g. Dr. Ann Noble of aroma wheel fame), some wine writers (such as Leslie Sbrocco and Andrea Immer Robinson), sommeliers, wine groups, and one winery PR person (which seems to be the normal role for women in most industries). But of course they are ALL American, and mostly Californian at that. So the title of the book could have been “California Women of the Vine”. This lack of international scope precludes many European and other New World winemakers, and it precludes writers such as Jancis Robinson in the UK and Natalie MacLean in Canada. And their books are not listed in the bibliography. But too, the New York City writer Mary Ewing-Mulligan is not profiled either, yet her book is cited in the bibliography. So the title is misleading and inconsistent. Nevertheless, Brenner does a good job in profiling 20 women, with about 10 pages for each plus a black and white photo. Sidebars provide generic wine advice on how to read a wine list, how to select wine accessories, and how to place wine in a store. There is a concluding bibliography and glossary. Audience and level of use: those who like reading about wine, women readers, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: women are wines’ largest consumers, or at least, they buy more wine than do men. The downside to this book: occasional sloppy editing, including misspelling Jancis’ first name (it is not Janice) – her website is also misspelled. The upside to this book: enthusiastic writing style. Quality/Price Rating: 88. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE OLDWAYS TABLE; essays & recipes from the culinary think tank (10 Speed Press, 2007, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-490-1, $41.95 hard covers) has been written and edited by K. Dun Gifford and Sara Baer- Sinnott. He is the founder of Oldways, and she is his executive VP. Gifford founded the group by 1990. With the Harvard School of Public Health and other experts, Oldways created a variety of healthy eating pyramids. These were eating guides based on healthy dietary traditions. For example, they promoted the Mediterranean Diet in North America, and then later the Asian Diet Pyramid, the Latin American Diet Pyramid, and the Vegetarian Diet Pyramid. They also have a high in-school cooking class educative component. The current book is an eclectic collation of recipes, dietary guides, food reference, ethnic flavours and preparations, and cultural lore; it has also been logrolled by Jeffery Steingarten and Mimi Sheraton. There are 150 recipes and 90 short food articles, with a high percentage written and developed by the authors- editors themselves. Gifford has 26 articles and more than 15 recipes, while Baer-Sinnott has twelve articles and more than a half-dozen recipes. Most of these articles are about food guidelines and nutrition, with a smattering of polemics. Along the way, there is a lot of autobiographical material about Gifford. There are chapters on all the major food groups such as grains, nuts, fish, wine, fruit, and so forth. Contributors to articles include Deb Madison on farmers’ markets, Bill Niman on pasture-raised pork, and Lynne Rossetto Kasper on Emilia-Romagna foods in Italy. Significantly, all three of these cooks have whole books which expand on their articles. Since the Oldways book has no bibliography (a shame), if you want to find additional data, just check, for example, Kasper’s book on Emilia- Romagna or Madison’s book on farmers’ markets. Recipes come from Duguid and Alford, Nancy Jenkins, Zarela Martinez, Elisabeth Luard, Paula Wolfert, Claudia Roden, and many others. US volume measurements are employed. Check www.oldwayspt.org for more details about the group. Audience and level of use: slow fooders, those interested in cultural foodways. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: orzo with feta, olives, tomato and dill; brioche pizzas with prosciutto and figs; corn masa – green plantain tortillas; chicken with caramelized onions, glazed figs, and pomegranate; chicory casserole; edamame beans with olive oil. The downside to this book: not a mention of the Slow Food Movement. What gives? There are no tables of metric equivalents. Nutritional information is neither centralized nor indexed – it is all scattered. The upside to this book: good bedtime reading: an article a day keeps the fast food away! Quality/Price Rating: 88. ======================================================================= 3. THE FAST TRACK ONE-DAY DETOX DIET (Random House Audio, 2005, RHCD 703, 3 hours on 3 CDs, ISBN 978-0-7393-2020-4, $29.95 set) is by Ann Louise Gittleman, author of the “Fat Flush Plan”. It has was published in hard cover in 2005, issued also as an audio book (this one), and is out again now in 2007 as a trade paperback reprint, re-titled “The Fast Track Detox Diet”. The words ONE-DAY have been dropped, presumably for some reason of legality or whatever. But the ONE-DAY remains on the audio book, because it is still the original release. The idea, from the audio book’s blurb, is to “boost metabolism, get rid of fattening toxins, safely lose up to 8 pounds overnight, and keep them off for good”. But the paperback reissue drops the word “overnight”. So presumably there is SOME reason why this may not be good for you on a one day basis. The system is this: spend seven days adding healthy foods to your diet to prepare your body, then spend one day sipping a mixture of herbs and spices designed to stave off hunger and release toxins, and then three days reintroducing healthy foods. There are testimonials, recipes and tips – to show that it really works. It must be a terrific diet certainly for one-day events such as a reunion, a party, a wedding, and so forth. One week before, just begin the activity. To make it easier, there is a recipe booklet included. Gittleman does her own reading. Audience and level of use: dieters who like the comfort and rigour of someone talking at them. Some interesting or unusual facts: it would be nice to know why the title changed. The downside to this CD set: we’ve seen it before. I use a 36 hour fast, augmented by a miracle drink of lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and maple syrup. I’ve lost weight, but I think it is all water since I seem to pee a lot in 36 hours. Also, there is no index to the audio book set. The upside to this CD set: it is comforting to have the author herself talk to you and give you re-assurances. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 4. MEATLOAF; recipes for everyone’s favorite (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 108 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4717-9, $18.95) is by Maryana Vollstedt, who has authored many family cookbooks for Chronicle Books on themes of casseroles, stews, soups, “easy”, and potluck. And please, no jokes about rock stars and slow wheels grinding exceedingly fine. Obviously, one can use meatloaf the next day, such as meatloaf sandwiches. This is a straightforward book, useful for ideas, with 45 recipes. Unfortunately, there is always a stigma attached to meatloaf. We’ve had it many times while we were children, and most of us have vowed never to eat meatloaf again when we become rich and famous. Put it all aside...She gives us some nifty ideas for fillers, stuffings, bindings, flavours, toppings, sauces and glazes, with lots of substitutions and varieties of meats. Of course, there are vegetarian dishes too, made with lentils, nuts, mushrooms, and veggies. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: basic home cooking, beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pizza meatloaf; turkey loaf; mac and cheese log; couscous and pine nuts; spinach-parmesan meatloaf. The downside to this book: teeny tiny typeface use for the index. Also, neither pate nor terrine is included. I thought that at least ONE technique could have been included. The upside to this book: the table of metric equivalents is on the inside back cover – which makes it immediately and always accessible. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. FROM THE EARTH TO THE TABLE. Rev. and expanded. (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 448 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5479-5, $29.95 paper covers) is by John Ash, with Sid Goldstein. Ash is a multiple award winning cookbook author, as well as a professional chef. He is on the faculty of the Professional Wine Studies Program at CIA Greystone; previously, he headed up food and wine activities at Fetzer Winery. His 1995 trailblazing cookbook has been revised and expanded, with 40 new recipes being added to the original 250. The theme is Northern California wine country food and wine. Each recipe is accompanied by wine suggestions, and there are the usual cook’s notes and tips and variations. Every recipe has been modified, some a lot (e.g., asparagus with sesame oil). For example, in salads there are 35 recipes in the new book (31 in the old) with new and different wine recks. In the appendices, the pages of names and addresses of suppliers and groups have been condensed to include only the name and website. This makes sense, since addresses seem to change more frequently than websites. US volume measurements are used, but there are tables of metric equivalents at the back of the book. This is an improvement over the original edition which had no tables. Audience and level of use: experienced hands, lovers of California cuisine, wine lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sadly, the typeface had to be reduced, and sometimes there are two recipes on a page. The downside to this book: there is a disappointing updating of the bibliography. Only one brand new book has been added, and one revised book. Whoever did this updating of the bibliography didn’t even bother to add Ash’s recent books! A few older books have been added (Julia Child, Joy of Cooking). The upside to this book: John Ash is one of my fave chefs, and I am very happy that this book is available, at an even cheaper price than the original! Quality/Price Rating: 95. 6. THE WINE AND FOOD LOVER’S DIET; 28 days of delicious weight loss (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 0-8118-5220- 2, $29.95 paper covers) is by Phillip Tirman, MD, a sports medicine physician, with the assistance of a whole slew of named helpers. And 7. THE WINE DIET; a complete nutrition and lifestyle plan (Sphere, 2007, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-84744-003-7, $19.99 paper covers) is by Roger Corder, an academic researcher specializing in cardiovascular function and the links between diabetes and heart disease. Tirman’s book has 100 recipes, with am month’s worth of meal plans. He concentrates on choosing foods and combinations wisely, to end hunger cycles. He deals with low-glycemic carbos and HDL/LDL cholesterol. He also tries to tell us when to indulge in desserts. Most importantly, he tells us how wine fits into the diet plan. His section on exercise is meagre, only a few pages, and mainly on walking. He formulates a Trilogy Diet in which each meal has one protein value and two low- glycemic carb values. Recipes are arranged by course and by type, beginning with breakfasts and ending with sides. Unbelievably, there are NO wine recommendations with the recipes. There is a bibliography, and more details can be found at www.wineandfooddiet.com. Corder wants us to drink red wine every day, and I’ll vote for that. In addition, we have to eat fruit, berries, nuts and chocolate—all in moderation of course. He only has 50 recipes and a two week menu plan, exactly half of Tirman’s regime. His diet is basically a low-fat, high- fibre diet with red wine. He has an extensive glossary and a scientific bibliography. Audience and level of use: dieters who refuse to give up wine. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from Tirman, sole stuffed with asparagus and hazelnuts, goat cheese with roasted red peppers and endive; from Corder, chile con carne with peanuts, chocolate truffle ice cream (no cream in it!), turkey rice and bean salad, monkfish kebabs with pomegranate salsa, beef stew with cranberries. The downside to this book: for Tirman, all the important tables and the ingredients for the recipes are white on dark, making them hard to read and difficult to photocopy for reference. The upside to this book: for Tirman, the index has entries in bold face caps, and there is a table of metric equivalents at the back of the book. Corder has good references to exercises. Quality/Price Rating: Tirman gets an 84, Corder 85 (simpler diet). 8. MYSTIC SEAFOOD; great recipes, history, and seafaring lore from Mystic Seaport (Three Forks, 2007; distr. Canada Manda Group, 210 pages, ISBN 978-0-7627-4137-3, $21.95 paper covers) is by Jean Kerr with Spencer Smith. She’s been a regional food editor and writer for New England; he’s an editorial executive in the hospitality industry. Here are 100 recipes from chefs and restaurants in the area, plus a few from Kerr. There are archival photos of tall ships, scenes from New England’s past, and reproductions of local advertisements. Part one deals with bivalves (oysters, clams, mussels, scallops), part two with crustaceans (lobsters, crabs, shrimps), and part three with 13 varieties of fin fish. The seafood, of course, comes fresh from the region, but any kind of seafood would do from elsewhere. He resources lists cover websites and a bibliography. There are metric conversion tables for the US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: meant as a souvenir book of the region? Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tandoori grilled monkfish; seared tuna in a black and white sesame crust; calamari trizzano; roast cod; pepper-crusted salmon fillets in chanterelle-plum sauce. The downside to this book: a bit too touristy for me, with the pictures. The upside to this book: good variety of seafood covered. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 9. THE 150 HEALTHIEST FOODS ON EARTH; the surprising, unbiased truth about what you should eat and why (Fair Winds, 2007; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 360 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-228-1, $32.50 paper covers) is by Jonny Bowden, an expert on weight loss and nutrition, author of other books, a US radio call-in show, and www.jonnybowden.com. As a promotion for his 3-CD set entitled “23 Ways to Improve Your Life”, a “free” CD of excerpts has been added to this book. But you can take it or leave it since it is not part of the book. He describes his top 150 foods, arranged alphabetically within food groups (e.g., veggies, grains, beans and legumes, sweeteners (but no mention of stevia) of blackstrap molasses and raw honey only. There is usually one recipe for each product, which ranged from “acaiberries” to “yogurt”, with stops along the way for sauerkraut and olives. There is a glossary. The extensive index includes entries for nutrients, diseases, the food themselves, and more. He has nine experts (plus himself) give us a list of the top ten foods that they actually eat. Ann Louise Gittleman (fat flush) is one of the more prominent experts: they seem to consume a lot of blueberries, followed by spinach and kale, nuts, broccoli, wild salmon, and grass-fed beef. Nobody mentioned “soy”, which is now a no- no in the health business. In fact, beans are to be avoided too. You should prefer legumes such as lentils and chickpeas. Lentils used to make daal, by the way, have had their outer skins removed, reducing their fibre and nutritional value. Audience and level of use: food watchers. Some interesting or unusual facts: Soy beans are, on a balance of probabilities, bad for you (as are beans). They contain lectins. Legumes (chickpeas, lentils, peas) are better. The downside to this book: there is a flawed indentation in the index, e.g. at beans. The upside to this book: good illustrations. Extensive 32 page index, the key to it all... Quality/Price Rating: 89. 10. A YEAR AT BALLYMALOE COOKERY SCHOOL (Kyle Cathie, 1997, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-85626-709-0, $42.95 paper covers) is by Darina Allen, an Irish award-winning cookbook author (Irish Traditional Cooking, Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cookery Course). She co-founded the Ballymaloe School (www.cookingisfun.ie). This book is a simple paper back reprint of the 1997 hard cover edition. No copyright has been sought beyond 1997. There are 125 recipes here. The book follows the food patterns through the seasons in Ireland, emphasizing fresh foods and seasonal matters. Of course, not all the foods here are “Irish”. All ingredients in the recipes have both Imperial and metric measurements expressed. Audience and level of use: lovers of cooking schools, Irish food. The downside to this book: a brutal price point. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 11. HOW TO START A HOME-BASED PERSONAL CHEF BUSINESS (Globe Pequot Press, 2007, 182 pages, ISBN 978-0-7627-4154-0, $24.95 paper covers) is by Denise Vivaldo, a professional chef with more than 20 years experience. She also reaches seminars and workshops around the USA, and had previously authored a similar book dealing with a home-based catering business, now in its fifth edition. Personal chefs are a booming occupational category, working with the rich and famous, and with middle-class families (DIWK), those with special diets, and the infirm/elderly. Essentially, such people are free-lance cooks, and it is a nifty occupation to turn to for recent grads from hospitality schools who may be finding it hard to get a job in a preferred place of employment in a preferred city. It is something one can do while “resting”. Being a personal chef is easier than being a caterer. The business is not as large, you are your own master, there is no special training needed – you should know how to cook and how to run a small business. Vivaldo’s material covers how to write a business plan, how to use time efficiently, how to search the Internet for recipes and ideas, and how to outfit a portable kitchen. Her focus is on making the business profitable. She has many forms and checklists, plus templated documents – to cover budget worksheets, menu planning, equipment checklists, client worksheet, income and expense forms. Her wide range of recipes serve four, with menus for vegan, vegetarian, upscale, hot weather, cold weather, kid friendly, Asia, Mexican and Italian foods. Audience and level of use: recent cooking school grads, dilettantes. Some interesting or unusual facts: her many appendices cover food pyramids, culinary terms, menu resources (all US) with websites, magazine and online recipe resources, several pages of weights and measures ands conversion charts. The downside to this book: mainly US perspective. The index has no generic entry for “forms”. The upside to this book: forms are useful, as well as a listing of several personal chef associations, including the Canadian Personal Chef Association, www.pchef.ca, founded in 1999. Quality/Price Rating: 92. 12. SARA FOSTER’S CASUAL COOKING; more fresh simple recipes from Foster’s Market (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 256 pages, ISNM 978-0-307- 33999-7, $44 hard covers) is by a former chef in Martha Stewart’s catering company. She owns her own take out business in North Carolina (fostersmarket.com), with her own line of products. She also writes as a food columnist and teaches courses. Her book has been assisted with Carolynn Carreno, who also worked with Foster on her previous cookbooks. The original title for the book, as announced, was “Casual Cooking from Foster’s Market”, but apparently Sara’s name can be a bigger selling point. This is a streamlined approach to cooking, not unlike catering (which is where most of her experience is). In some cases, it is a re-invention of the wheel. I don’t need to be told, yet again, that I can make a meal out of a salad or a sandwich, or to produce a on-dish supper of protein and/or pasta, and that my desserts can be simple and quick chocolate and fruit. The 100 recipes here include “perennial favorites” and “quick fix” options to cut time, plus variations and improvisational foods. The popular dishes at her markets can be mostly made from your home larder (pantry, fridge, and freezer). She emphasizes staples with spice accents to jazz it all up. She advocates taking advantage of leftovers and pre-cooked food, and even pre-packaged foods if needed. US volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: fans in North Carolina, others looking for a quick fix in food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted vegetable platter with farmstead cheese fondue; shrimp salad with sugar snap peas; grilled sausage and potato salad with spinach and mustard vinaigrette; steak tacos with chopped charred summer veggies; rigatoni with sausage, cannellini beans, and swiss chard ragu; rosemary-grilled boneless leg of lamb with Tuscan white beans and roasted tomatoes. The downside to this book: there are no metric tables of weights and measure equivalents. Also, there seems to be too glamorous a presentation, an overkill in a plush-lush production. The upside to this book: a lavish picture for each recipe, and a large typeface. You can use this book for ideas. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 13. SIMPLE CHINESE COOKING (Viking Studio, 2007, 314 pages, ISBN 978-0- 670-03848-0, $43.50 hard covers) is by Kylie Kwong, an Australian owner-operator of a restaurant, and the host of two TV cooking programs. It may be simple food and simple technique, but the book weighs 2.04 kilos (about 4.5 pounds), not so simple...Most of that weight is the quality of the paper, needed for the photos. Jamie Oliver is the main log roller on the back cover. The book is meant for home cooking, and emphasizes -- yet again – fresh ingredients, simple techniques, everyday meals, and family entertaining. But at this level, it is pricey. The prefatory material covers the elements of the Chinese kitchen (equipment, ingredients, larder, and stocks) and eating Chinese style. Five menus are suggested, but there are no page references. The recipes are for soups, protein products, veggies, salads, rice, noodles, won tons, and sides. The photos are, of course, gorgeous, using the sizzle to sell the steak. The ingredients in all the recipes use both metric and imperial measurements; the ingredients are also listed in bold face. No desserts are included. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: soy sauce chicken wings with fresh shiitake mushrooms; stir-fried omelette with tomatoes mushrooms and chili; deep-fried whole fish with Sichuan pepper; stir-fried hokkien noodles with chicken and bean sprouts; sour Chinese cabbage with sesame oil. The downside to this book: too heavy to actually use in the kitchen, difficult to cook from. Also, for these kinds of recipes, you could use a Sunset Magazine book, or some other generic Chinese paperback cookbook at around $12. The upside to this book: step-by-step instructional pictures for techniques are useful. Quality/Price Rating: 81. 14. EVERDAY FOOD: GREAT FOOD FAST (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35416-7, $30 paper covers) is from the magazine “Everyday Food”. All of the recipes here have appeared in its pages. The mag (launched in 2003) is published by Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia 10 times a year; it now has 850,000 readers. This book is also a companion to the PBS series of the same name. The 250 recipes follow the KISS principle: keep it simple, stupid. It has been organized by season, beginning with spring (light), summer (grilling), winter (hearty soups and stews). Introductory material covers the basics and variations of sauces and rubs, eggs and chickens. In a large faux pas, while recipes have US volume measurements (with NO metric tables of equivalents), the nutritional data is expressed in metric measurements! Prep time and total timings are given; each recipes appears to have a picture. While the book is pitched to home cooks at a beginner level (at least, that’s what the recipes seem to indicate), the prep times seem to be for the advanced kitchen lover who can work fast. The prep time for corn soup indicates 20 minutes to shuck and to de-silk 16 ears of corn, then slice off the kernels, and puree the kernels with water. I dunno: it takes me more than half an hour, and I have great kitchen skills. Of course, I could speed it up a bit, especially if a chef was breathing down my neck...But this is a HOME kitchen, not a pro shop. And cooking (including the prep work) should be enjoyable. Many dishes also involve larder items which you-the-cook have pre-made at another time. So prep time is a bit flexible here, and needs to be taken with a grain of salt. Audience and level of use: home cooks, magazine subscribers, PBS TV show watchers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almond-apricot chicken with mint pesto; creamy corn soup; lentil-walnut burgers; tostadas salsa verde; grilled chocolate sandwiches (essentially French toast with chocolate); potato and onion frittata. The downside to this book: nutritional information for the recipes is given separately, on pages 364 – 372. Did someone forget to add them to the relevant pages? And they are in metric? The upside to this book: through index. Decent price. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 15. THE COMPLETE BOOK OF SMALL-BATCH PRESERVING; over 300 delicious recipes to use year-round. 2d edition, revised and expanded. (Firefly, 2007, 376 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-256-9, $19.95 paper covers) is by Ellie Topp and Margaret Howard. It was originally published as “Put a Lid On It” in 1997, with more recipes in 1999. In 2001, it changed its name when it was consolidated into "The Complete Book of Small-Batch Preserving". The authors are professional home economists and food consultants. Both have authored and co-authored cookbooks before. Lots of techniques are carefully explained here, so that food should not spoil. Variations are suggested. The schtick is to do your own processing and save over supermarket prices; hence, there are fairly decent store knockoffs here. Covered are jams, jellies, pickles, chutneys, sauces, salsas, fruit butters, conserves, marinades, mustards, liqueurs, curds, low-sugar spreads, flavoured oils and vinegars. New to this edition is the chapter on freezer preserving, with recipes for summer drinks, tapenades, pestos, and pasta sauces. This chapter has suggestions for safe defrosting and freezing herbs. As well, some recipes are suitable for microwave ovens. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Of the 300 recipes, about 30 (10% of the total) are for ways to use preserved foods, such as muffins, pizza, Provence style grilled vegetables, potato salsa salad, marmalade squares, apple butter spice cake. The downside to this book: pretty basic and useful stuff. The upside to this book: great price. The ingredients in the recipes have both metric and Imperial measurements expressed. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 16. RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them all. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of such books – * CLASSIC STARS DESSERTS (Chronicle Books, 2007; distr. Raincoast, 312 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-4703-2, $36.95 hard covers) is by Emily Luchetti, from the San Francisco Bay area. She was the famed dessert chef at Stars restaurant and has won the James Beard Outstanding Pastry Chef Award. This book is a collation of the “better” 150 recipes from her two previous books, “Stars Desserts” (1991) and “Four Star Desserts” (1995). According to the publisher’s catalogue, Stars’ legendary desserts include Nectarine Blueberry Blintzes and French Apple Tartlets, and both are here. Most desserts serve six. The measurements are by US volume, and not scaled by weight as pastry chefs do it. So this is a concession to the home cook who will be buying this book. At the back, there are tables of metric equivalents. All the recipes have been revisited by Luchetti and many have been modified. Peter Palmer, wine director of Farallon resto in San Francisco, contributes notes on wine matching (port, banyul, sauterne, madeira, sherry, even some “Eiswein”) with page references to the appropriate recipe. QPR: 88. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR FEBRUARY 2007 =================================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words from poet Charles Bukowski -- “Show me a man who lives alone and has a perpetually clean kitchen, and I’ll show you a man with detestable spiritual qualities”. ALLEZ CUISINE !! * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. REVOLUTIONARY CHINESE COOKBOOK; recipes from Hunan Province (W. Norton, 2006, 2007, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-393-06222-9, $39 hard covers) is by Fuchsia Dunlop, a UK food writer specializing in Chinese cuisine. She had trained at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine in Chengdu (1994-1996). This book was first published in 2006 in the UK by Ebury Press; this is its North American release. Her first book was on Sichuan food; it was a UK book prize winner, endorsed by John Thorne and Alan Davidson. This current book is on Hunan food from Chairman Mao’s home province. It is a hotter food area, with plenty of braises, stews, and stir fries. She gives a cultural history too, with profiles of people and the region. Her good cook’s notes include details on the Hunan pantry and larder (bean curd, bacon, chiles, oils, black beans, garlic, dried mushrooms, spices and herbs). As well, she delves into cooking methods, kitchen equipment, and serving dishes. She has plenty of easy starters and steamed dishes. The recipes are extensively written, but the measurements are all US by volume. There is a bibliography of both Chinese and English language books and cookbooks, as well as a glossary of Chinese characters. Audience and level of use: regional cooks, libraries, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lotus root sandwich fritters; hot-dry noodles; pearly meatballs; stir-fried pork; beef with cumin; numbing-and-hot chicken. The downside to this book: the index is mostly for English titles. There is also no metric table of equivalents. The upside to this book: where possible, there are lots of Chinese pictographs and transliterated names. Quality/Price Rating: 90. ======================================================================= 2. CARAMEL (Whitecap, 2006, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-815-8, $24.95 paper covers) is by Trish Deseine, an Irish food writer who now writes and lives in France. It was originally published in France in 2005. And 3. SALT & PEPPER (Whitecap, 2006, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-816-5, $24.95 paper covers) is by Jody Vassallo, a cookbook author (she has a previous book on curries). This book was originally published in France in 2005. And 4. SOUP (Whitecap, 2006, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-834-9, $24.95 paper covers) is by Anne-Catherin Bley, a restaurant owner who set up the first “soup bar” in Paris. The book was previously published in France in 2005. All three books are similar in set up, dealing with a single ingredient or form. Standard covers and indexing, plus basic kitchen information. The SOUP book has a wide variety of ingredients. Its preps are both hot and cold, both savoury and sweet, both smooth and chunky, both broth and puree, and both noodles and croutons concoctions – for any occasion. The arrangement is topical, with a batch of tomato soups, pumpkin soups, carrot, greens, dried veggies, hearty, cheesy, chilled and fruit. The SALT book covers sprinkles and rubs, drinks, appetizers, and so forth. Most dishes here are meant to be salty or peppery or both, including the desserts. She has a discussion on the various types of salts and peppers. The CARAMEL book arranges the sweet by creamy, glassy, mixed with chocolate, glazes, and sauces. She uses some convenience foods such as Rice Krispies, caramel chocolate bars, butterscotch candies, and off-the-shelf dulce de leche. 90 recipes are in the SOUP book, while the SALT book has 110 and the CARAMEL has 130 recipes. There are plenty of cooks notes and tips. Imperial and metric measurements are used together in the recipes. Audience and level of use: beginner to intermediate home cooks. The downside to these books: The index is too literal. For example, in the soup book, there a lot of “cream of...” recipes indexed under C, but not under the name of the ingredient. Also, the typeface can be a bit too small in places. The upside to these books: There is first rate colour photography, even a bit playful at times. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. KATHY CASEY’S NORTHWEST TABLE; Oregon – Washington – British Columbia – Southern Alaska (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 232 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-5432-0, $44 hard bound) is by Kathy Casey, a food retailer, consultant and writer operating out of Seattle. Her book deals with the entire west coast of North America, north of California. These are her favourite 100 recipes, and show Mexican-Asiatic- Aboriginal influences. The range is from apps to desserts, but is rich in seafood, fruit and forest food (game, mushrooms). She notes the various valleys, islands and forests in the immense region, but only spends a page on the major cities. Local ingredients, such as Tillamook Cheddar from Oregon, locally brewed ale, wild salmon, Dungeness crab, are stressed – of course. The recipes have US volume measurements for each ingredient. There is a glossary. The listing of local resources (with websites) includes three from BC and even one from Ohio! Audience and level of use: West coasters, travelers, curious fooders. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cranberry semi-freddo; chanterelles fritters; rosemary semolina flat bread; roasted figs; lentil and sausage soup; citrus teriyaki salmon. The downside to this book: a tad pricey for us in Canada, with only about 100 recipes. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 6. MORE FROM ACE BAKERY; recipes for and with bread (Whitecap, 2006, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-808-0, $28.95 paper covers) is by Linda Haynes, co-founder of ACE Bakery in Toronto. This is her second cookbook celebrating ACE Bakery. And all royalties will be donated to organizations that work with women and children in crisis. The preps here are more of the same type as before, but different. Call this Volume Two: everyday fare to creations for entertaining, all courses, all meals. Of course, most of the recipes deal with bread. Some of the preps here are made at their street cafe, others were created for breakfast and lunch with family and friends. She has some basic bread recipes and spin-offs, such as a zucchini-carrot-gruyere loaf. Salads, egg dishes and mushroom dishes are a specialty. There are some sharp cook’s notes and details, as well as pictures, especially for the challah. Recipes are in both Imperial and metric, mostly by volume and not by weight (she does not scale). Her book concludes with a bibliography and a glossary. Audience and level of use: bread lovers and those who bought her first book. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grilled cheese sandwich; flax bread with honey and oats; angel muffins; Jamaican banana fritters; Stilton and leek flans; Greek lamb charlotte. The downside to this book: no scaling for the bread recipes. The upside to this book: great meals for a family. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 7. GRILLIN’ & CHILI’N’ (Lyons Press, 2003; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 173 pages, ISBN 978-1-59228-963-9, $18.95 paper covers) is by Kate Fiduccia, a wild game chef, author, and restaurateur. She’s also a TV chef, specializing in wild game. This book was originally published in 2003; this is a paperback reprint. Briefly, here are 80 basic and easy recipes for cooking venison, now a generic name for any farmed game of elk, caribou, moose, or deer. There are chili recipes galore to use up that ground meat, plus marinades, rubs and butters. Slow cooking is a specialty, as well as BBQ. Sides are also included. There is a list of US mail order resources. While all the recipes are expressed in US measurements, there are metric conversion charts. Nice photography. Do try the moose flank steak... Quality/Price Rating: 86. 8. THE PINEAPPLE; king of fruits (Vintage, 2006, 315 pages, ISBN 978-0- 099-46944-5, $34.95 paper covers) is by Fran Beauman, an historian who now writes for UK television. It was originally published in 2005 by Chatto & Windus, and this is the paperback reprint. It has been well- received, with notes such as “engaging...compelling...scintillating” from the revered TLS. She explores why this fruit is so special, covering origins in the Amazon rainforest to the Caribbean to Hawaii (first canning factory) to the Philippines. There is some business history of the Dole Corporation, as well as descriptions of the pineapple as status symbol. A home grown pineapple was the pinnacle of success in Europe, and every wealthy family grew them at their country house. Beauman also comments on pineapples in film, art, and design. There are about 52 glorious reproductions (black and white and colour) of the pineapple throughout history, including Wedgwood teapots, labels from cans and advertising, and even a swimsuit. There are many footnotes and an extensive index. 9. MAMA NOW COOKS LIKE THIS (Whitecap, 2006, 256 pages, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-508-9, $29.95 paper covers) is by Susan Mendelson, a long time cookbook author for some thirty years. She had developed a whole slew of recipes for her Vancouver catering company, The Lazy Gourmet. The “best” recipes from her nine previous books have been gathered here, as well as sixty new ones. Over 200 recipes in all, concentrating on low-fat and high-fibre. All have been sourced or noted as to which book it comes from, so you can at once what the new stuff is all about. Most of the preps are easy and useful for family dining and entertaining. Recipes have both Imperial and metric measurements, but the metric is hard to read in the off-green typeface colour. Audience and level of use: fans, those looking for a generally healthy cookbook. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cheese and sun-dried tomato phyllo purse; coconut scallops; wild mushroom risotto balls; prawn pot stickers; fig anise crackers; green beans with nami sauce. The downside to this book: difficult to make the transition from one colour ink to another, such as to the lighter colour that deals with metric measurements for each ingredient. The index has tiny print. The upside to this book: useful collection. Few colour photos keep the price and weight of the book low. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 10. COOKING WITH BOOZE (Whitecap, 2006, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285- 762-5, $29.95 paper covers) is by Ryan Jennings (food editor at ELLE Canada) and David Steele (an events producer). The 96 recipes here cover brunch to desserts, BBQ, risottos, wine beer and spirits. Most recipes can be made non-alcoholic too. There is a convenient alcohol burn off chart. Both Imperial and metric measurements are used with ingredients in each recipe. Each dish which uses alcohol is accompanied by an alcoholic mixed drink. For example, cranberry-cointreau scones are accompanied by a smoothie that uses coconut rum. The authors give us lots of cooks’ notes and tips, plus five menus for get-togethers (New Year’s Eve Tapas/Burns Supper and Scotch/St.Patrick’s Day/ Mother’s Day Brunch/ Picnic. Visit www.cookingwithbooze.com for more recipes and tips. Audience and level of use: cooks looking to spark up their nightly fare. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: brie and pear pastries; Late Harvest fruit salad; hummus with pepper vodka; cabernet tapenade; vodka salmon nests; bloody caesar steamed mussels; stuffed pork with blackberry wine jus (but it is pretty hard to find blackberry wine in Canada – I know, I’ve tried). The downside to this book: well, booze to me (and to a lot of other people) is spirits. I would not have thought to check the book for beer or wine recipes. There are a few spelling errors, such as Berrenger. Also, many of the recipes are standard. The upside to this book: large typeface. There is an index to both recipes and drinks. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 11. EVERYONE CAN COOK APPETIZERS; over 100 tasty bites (Whitecap, 2006, 198 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-793-9, $24.95 paper covers) is by Eric Akis, a West Coast food writer who has authored two other “Everyone Can Cook” books. He gives us seven party menus for classy canapés, Asian apps, pates, dips, desserts, with page references to the recipes. Recipes include prep times and cooking times, as well as cooks’ notes and tips. Each ingredient is expressed in both Imperial and metric measurements. Many of his dishes emphasize the right platform choice, so he delves into empanadas, pastries and others. The instructions are clear and useful, as well as his details on how to plan. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seafood stuffed avocados; hoisin chicken star fruit stars; savoury Asian-style vegetarian pancakes; lamb lollipops (spare me); tourtiere phyllo bundles; smoked salmon sushi. The downside to this book: some pretty standard preps, and redundant ones too (lollipops). The upside to this book: extensive index. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 12. MARTINI; a guide to 500 classic martinis (Whitecap, 2006, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-824-0, $19.95 paper covers) is by Jonathan Goodall, former editor of “Wine & Spirit International”. It was originally published by Quantum in the UK. The recipe count includes 50 non-alcoholic “mockatini” creations. Ultimately, the author takes liberty with the word martini. All you need is a martini glass, garnishes, thinnish liquid, and away you go. Everything else is just a mixed gin or a mixed vodka drink, with added alcohol flavours. Audience and level of use: those who like to drink martini variations. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there is really only one martini. Quality/Price Rating: 78. 13. HAD A GLASS; top 100 wines for 2007 under $20 (Whitecap, 2006, 168 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-807-3, $19.95 paper covers) is by Kenji Hodgson and James Nevison, the authors of 20003’s “Have a Glass; a modern guide to wine” (Whitecap Books, 2003, 240 pages, ISBN 1-55285-470-1, $19.95 paper covers). They are the British Columbia www.halfaglass.com team who had previously published a 2006 top listing. Had a Glass showcases top inexpensive wines available primarily in BC, although those labels with national distribution will also be found in other provinces. They try to pick wines available to match any occasion, and along the way they provide tips on food and wine pairing and stemware. The first forty pages present all the basics, including five recipes. Most of this is all new, but I am not sure why it is here since the book is really about the top 100 wines. Most readers/buyers will head straight for the listings which follow, one per page, for whites, roses, reds, aperitifs, dessert wines and sparklers. There are indexes by countries, by wine, and by food. Tasting notes are pretty bare bones, but each wine has a label, a price, and some food matches. Audience and level of use: beginner Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The boys write a weekly column “Wine Guys” in Vancouver’s The Province newspaper. The downside to this book: too many general notes for an annual – all we really need is a list with a quick rationale. The upside to this book: good coverage of BC wines as found in BC. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 14. MARTHA STEWART’S HOMEKEEPING HANDBOOK; the essential guide to caring for everything in your home (Clarkson Potter, 2006, 744 pages, ISBN 0-517-57700-3, $55 hard covers) really doesn’t need a review. Just buy it and read it. Oh sure, a lot of this stuff is now floating around the Internet (e.g. FlyLady) as free information, but it will cost you money and time to read and download what you need when you need it, plus print it out. You can order the book from Amazon or Chapters at a discount, with free home delivery. Then, the book will always be available when required. The only real drawback is the physical weight: it shipped to me at 4.8 pounds. It will need propping up. Topics are useful for restaurants which do their own light housekeeping, or beds and breakfast places. Also, to keep the cost of the book manageable, there are no colour photos: just 350 black and white photographs and 150 drawings. Topics include: removing household stains, storing wine, first aid kits, cleaning appliances, table linens, storing and retrieving recipes, cleaning the grill, etc. etc. – hundreds of tips. There is a sources section (all US) and a materials glossary (abalone to zinc). The index is full and comprehensive. Audience and level of use: homemakers and small businesses. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “As part of your weekly cleaning routine, dust cookbooks with a duster or dry paintbrush. Follow with a damp cloth or sponge to remove any sticky residue or food smudges.” Quality/Price Rating: 95. 15. TAPAS (Tuttle Publishing, 2006, 96 pages, ISBN 978-0-8048-3847-4, $16.95 hard cover) is by Richard Tapper, an appropriate name for an author of a book on tapas. He spent six years as an owner-operator of a tapas bar in Deya, on the Spanish island of Mallorca. Currently, he is a freelance writer in Australia. Tapas are basically snacks to accompany dry sherry, but the English-speaking world seems to want to enlarge the meaning to include any small dish. Most tapas and sherry for the home can be satisfied by olives, nuts, seafood from a jar, reheating frozen croquettes and chicken, and so forth. Quickly, too. Tapper includes these and more, to give us a “small plate” book. He has 62 basic recipes, eight of which concern eggs such as a mushroom frittata and salmon stuffed eggs. There is batter fried fish, potato and ham croquettes, kebabs, meatballs, brochettes, empanadas, pizzas, clams, shrimp, octopus, mussels, oysters, and sardines. Most main ingredients are stuffed or fried. Recipes are expressed with both Imperial and metric measurements, and both prep and cooking times are given. Audience and level of use: beginners. The downside to this book: no nuts! The upside to this book: there is material on how to roast your own red bell peppers. Quality/Price Rating: given the price, 89. 16. SEDUCED BY BACON; recipes & lore about America’s favourite indulgence (Lyons Press, 2006; distr. Canada Manda, 178 pages, ISBN 978-1-59228-851-9, $31.95 hard covers) is by Joanna Pruess, a major American food writer (cookbook author, New York Times, Washington Post, Food a& Wine, Saveur, Food Arts, AP). In addition she develops recipes for food manufacturers in the US and in France. Her assistant (“with Bob Lape”) is her husband, a restaurant critic. Notable log rollers include Charlie Trotter (who seems to have been absent for a time from the cookbook endorsement business) and John Mariani. It is a basic book, with good savoury preps plus four desserts (bacon ice cream, anyone?). I cannot remember when I just had “bacon” by itself. I’ve almost always had it in something to add flavour, to be a condiment, or as bacon fat. Her prefatory material covers buying, storing and cooking with bacon. The almost 100 recipes follow, for all courses, even though 71% of bacon the USA is only eaten at breakfast and brunch – and pretty much as strips. She does not cover organic bacon, but you can get it through normal organic distribution channels, or at least get something that is hormone-free. Smokeless Canadian bacon is mentioned, but of course it is not covered since it is from the loin. So that leaves us with other non-smoked belly spin-offs: pancetta (only one recipe) and pork bellies (not covered at all). All the recipes have cooks’ notes, sidebars, tips, and US measurements by volume. They conclude with a list of suppliers of specialty bacons, with phone numbers Audience and level of use: savoury lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seared scallops on leeks with balsamic; Jamaican jerked shrimp, mushrooms, and tomatoes; bacon- cheddar baking powder biscuits; Mexican cornbread; Alpine potato torte (Farcon); dandelion and bacon salad. The downside to this book: there is no mention of doing anything special with the latest trendy porker, Berkshire. There are no metric tables of measurement equivalents. The upside to this book: I found out that “ventreche” is the French version of pancetta. A nice basic single product cookbook about regular bacon. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 17. FOOD THAT REALLY SCHMECKS; Mennonite country cooking as prepared by my Mennonite friend Bevvy Martin, my mother and other fine cooks (Wilfrid Laurier University Press, 2007, 334 pages, ISBN 978-0-88920- 521-5, $32.95 paper covers) is by the late, great Edna Staebler. This present book is basically a reissue of the 1968 classic, being labeled variously as “3rd edition” or “commemorative edition”. If you’ve already got it, you won’t need this new paper back. The new material is a foreword by Wayson Choy (copyright 2007) and an introduction by food writer Rose Murray (not copyrighted at all). The original book had recipes from the region in Southwestern Ontario plus stories and anecdotes about cooking, Mennonites, her family, and the Waterloo Region. Audience and level of use: lovers of local cooking, Mennonite cooking. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 18. RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don’t ignore them all. Here’s the latest, this time from Vancouver... 19. AS FRESH AS IT GETS; everyday recipes from the Tomato Fresh Food Cafe (Arsenal Pulp Press, 2006, 184 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-199-2, $24.95 paper covers) is by Christian Gaudreault and Star Spilos, now co-owners of the Tomato Fresh Food Cafe (www.tomatofreshfoodcafe.com). The resto had opened in 1991, and the current team came on board in 1995, finally owning it by 2001. Casual and fresh are the themes, with supporting logrolling endorsements from locals John Bishop and Thomas Haas. It is, of course, largely tomato based. All courses are covered, and there is the usual good colour photography. There are about 130 preps. Unfortunately, the book uses US volume measurements only, with no metric tables of equivalents. Popular recipes include crab cakes with peppercorn aioli, pan-seared scallops with mushroom risotto, roasted tomato and artichoke salad, heirloom tomato gazpacho. Quality/Price Rating: 85. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JANUARY 2007 ============================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com But first, these words from a friend of mine who bought a cookbook once. He told me that he could never do anything with it. It had too much fancy cooking in it. Every one of the recipes began the same way: “Take a clean dish...” ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINES OF FRANCE; the essential guide for savvy shoppers (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 378 pages, ISBN 1-58008-688-8, $23.95 paper covers) is by Jacqueline Friedrich, a US food and wine writer who splits her time between Paris and the Loire (she had previously written a book on the foods and wines of the Loire which won major awards such as the Glenfiddich and Beard). It has been enthusiastically endorsed by many logrollers, but only Kermit Lynch’s words have any real meaning for me. The book is meant mostly for travelers to France, to indicate the best value wines there and the hot new winemakers in France. She notes the up-and-coming French wine regions and sub-regions, a boon for the consumer both traveling in France and for buying wines at home. Her listings of top wine producers in each of the ten regions include a broad overview, price ranges, recent vintages, and contact details. Each region has a basic map and a one page crib sheet for lists of “Must Trys”, “Smart Buys”, “General Good Values”, and “Safe Houses”. Believe it or not, Ontario imports a ton of “Safe Houses”! France created the benchmark wines: pinot noir in Burgundy, sauvignon blanc in Loire, riesling in Alsace, shiraz-syrah in North Rhone, sparkling in Champagne. Unfortunately, while France makes (to most of us) the best and worst wines in the world (and charges accordingly), they are not business marketers. Friedich documents this quite well and notes all the changes. But perceptions of inexpensive wines are slow to change -- just ask the Ontario wine people. Her takes on unknown wines are valuable: just check out the sections on Jura, Savoie, Languedoc, Provence, and the Southwest of Bergerac and Gaillac. There is a small piece on how to order wine in a French restaurant or in a wine store (she lists eight top stores in Paris), as well as a glossary and an index. Audience and level of use: travelers, French wine lovers, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: She comments on extreme wines (micro-oxygenated, garagiste, biodynamic, hypernatural): “And the resulting wines were plush, immediately seductive, awash in sumptuous ripe fruit and fine oak flavors, and low in acid; any abrasive tannins were absent.” Hardly a food wine. The downside to this book: it is a bit oversized for ease of portability by hand. The upside to this book: she is very diplomatic. About Beyer wines, a major Alsatian producer in the Ontario marketplace and found in many restaurants, she says “They are pleasant and professional and suited to the distractions of a bustling public space.” Is this lady available to write up the rest of the world’s wine regions??? Quality/Price Rating: 95. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. MEMORIES OF PHILIPPINE KITCHENS (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 233 pages, ISBN 1-58479-451-8, $45 hardbound) is by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan, owners of Cendrillon in Manhattan, a resto which opened in SoHo in 1995. They specialize in serving Filipino food. Filipinos are the second largest Asian ethnic group in the USA – more than 2 million. Here, in this solid 3 pound book endorsed by the renowned traveling cookbook team of Alford and Duguid, the authors go back to their roots to present traditional Filipino cooking methods and culture. They have colourful stories of good memories, garnered just by asking people. The regional food is a mix of Chinese, Spanish, and American cuisines; it can be labour intensive, with the prepping of many ingredients. The author’s sources are families, street vendors, and other chefs. The food is both classic and regional, and here is presented in chapters arranged by themes (by region, original Filipino food of adobes-kakanin-siniyang, borrowed foods from their ancestral mix, family recipes, Christmas, plus eleven recipes in use at their restaurant. There is a glossary of food terms, and a list of American sources of supply. Audience and level of use: regional specialists, Filipino food lovers, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lumpia; jackfruit chiffon cake; longaniza (sausage); pochero; mango tart; pancit malabon; empanadas. The downside to this book: the acknowledgments go on for eight solid columns of small type. There are no metric conversion tables. The upside to this book: excellent layout and graphics, with a bibliography of books and magazines. Quality/Price Rating: 92. ======================================================================= 3. CURRY CUISINE; fragrant dishes from India, Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia (DK Books, 2006, 352 pages, ISBN 0-7566-2078-3, $32 hard covers) is a book package with multiple authors, each one responsible for a different country. Sri Owen, for example, a cookbook writer for the past four decades, wrote the chapter on Myanmar and Maritime SE Asia, while David Thompson (who wrote the award-winning book “Thai Food” in 2002) covers, of course, Thailand. Eighteen regions are covered, including (beyond the subtitle) Africa, Caribbean, Britain and Japan, and all with kitchen memoirs by the authors, cooking methods, and cook’s notes of tips. This is a book about curry migration through the world. The publisher also advises that “Every recipe in Curry Cuisine is both authentic and use-friendly. Tried and tested by experts using widely available ingredients, exquisite flavors and successful results are guaranteed.” No weasel words there...180 recipes cover the key dishes, the sides and the accompaniments. Unfortunately for us in Canada, the source list is all US and UK only. The book concludes with a food glossary. Audience and level of use: curry lovers, global fusion lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: katsu curry (pork or chicken); shrimp balti; saraman (ginger beef curry); green curry of coconut heart; chickpea pilaf; tamarind rice; lamb with winter vegetables and spinach. The downside to this book: the measurements can be confusing. The volume measurements are in English only while the weight measurements are in both English and metric scale. The upside to this book: there are both notes and photos of ingredients specific to the local region. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 4. BREAD MATTERS; the state of modern bread and a definitive guide to baking your own (Fourth Estate, 2006, 371 pages, ISBN 0-00-720374-8, $49.95 hard covers) is by Andrew Whitley, founder of Village Bakery in Melmerby, UK. The publisher says that this is a “foolproof guide to baking real bread at home”. I suppose I could make a joke here about proofing bread, but I won’t. A fool and his proof are soon parted...Whitley devotes a lot of space in the first 70 pages to explaining the science and chemistry behind the baking process. He also (quite rightly) disparages commercial breads for their additives, adulteration, bad nutrition, and their frozen partially-baked status. The French call this “pain industriel”. Other than that, he plunges into the six stages of breadmaking: mixing, kneading, rising, shaping, proving, and baking – along with a discussion on crusts, crumbs, sponges and bigas. Types of breads covered include sourdoughs, pie crusts, sweet breads, rolls, and gluten-free baking. He even has a section entitled “growing old gracefully”, which is devoted to leftovers (stuffings, charlottes, bread puddings and the like). The photo sections of his breads have page references to the recipes. All of the recipes in this 3.75 pound book are scaled by metric weight, and there are conversion charts. Audience and level of use: bakers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: seeded rye bread; olive nut pumpkin seed bread; cheese bread; semolina, raisin and fennel bannock; Scottish morning rolls; sun-dried tomato and red onion bread with tamari-roasted sunflower seeds. The downside to this book: the resources are all UK. The upside to this book: there is a ribbon bookmark, and he has sources and explanations of many things relegated to end notes. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. THE FAMILY STYLE SOUL FOOD DIABETES COOKBOOK (American Diabetes Association, 2006, 240 pages, ISBN 1-58040-239-9, $20.95 paper covers) is by three registered dieticians and a private chef. Their first book was “New Soul Food for People with Diabetes” – but don’t let the d-word scare you off. These are great, modified recipes that are low in fat, for a variety of foods such as Cajun, Creole, Southern, and Black Soul. 150 preps strip away all the bad stuff and leave the flavour intact. This book is useful for everybody, especially those who love spicy foods. Topics include breads, breakfast, grilled foods and BBQ, pork, seafood, snacks, chicken, custards and puddings, and fruits. There are even helpful charts on how to convert “old soul food” to “new soul food”. There is also a soul food pyramid! Audience and level of use: dieters. Some interesting or unusual facts: one in every five African American adults has diabetes, and African Americans are twice as likely to develop type 2 diabetes as Caucasians. The downside to this book: the binding did not appear to be sturdy enough for constant use. The upside to this book: large type face, and the recipes are indexed by title of dish, ingredient, and type of food (e.g., pies, hot cakes, pasta). Quality/Price Rating: 91. 6. FOOD TO LIVE BY; the Earthbound Farm Organic Cookbook (Workman, 2006, 402 pages, ISBN 0-7611-3899-4, $29.95 paper covers) is by Myra Goodman, co-founder of Earthbound Farm in 1984, plus Linda Holland (food writer) and Pamela McKinstry (consulting chef of Earthbound Farm). The material here has been backed up by many food researchers. But still it is a basic food book with sidebars on farm-fresh ingredients, shopping tips, health notes, and the like. Earthbound became big when it developed pre-washed, bagged organic salads in 1986, and it has never looked back. The business really took off after they did a deal with a club store chain. The company now owns 30,000 certified organic acres of food, offering 100 or so products. This full-range cookbook of 260 recipes covers the elements of soups through desserts, with stops for breakfasts and brunches along the way. She has pantry notes and conversion tables for US – Imperial – metric measurements. Throughout, there are pretty pictures and differing typefaces and fonts. Audience and level of use: beginners, those concerned about the environment. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: broiled salmon with BBQ sauce; shallot vinaigrette; chicken piccata; sweet creamed corn; swiss chard with raisins and pine nuts; wild mushroom ragout with polenta; tangerine tofu with broccoli. The downside to this book: none of the recipes has to use organic food – there are no distinguishing characteristics. I’m not sure that “Twice-Baked Potatoes” is a useful organic recipe. It belongs in a general cookbook, as do the standard bran muffin and brownie recipes as found here. Show me something special! The upside to this book: the book is bound to popularize organic foods. It has been endorsed by Chef John Ash. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 7. WELCOME TO THE TABLE; simple recipes for gracious dinners & parties (Hearst Books, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 239 pages, ISBN 1- 58816-543-4, $32.95 hard covers) is by Barbara Scott-Goodman, a multiple cookbook author, and House Beautiful magazine. There are 130 recipes here for some good looking plated dishes of full suppers (salad, soup, app, main, side, dessert). There are many tips and sidebars that cover tableware, flatware, stemware, linens, centrepieces, and serving accessories. She has seasonal and menu themes for holidays and special occasions such as BBQs. While US volume measurements are used, there are tables of metric equivalents for conversion purposes. Audience and level of use: beginner. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chorizo bites; lobster corn and red pepper chowder; spinach tomato and pancetta salad with buttermilk dressing; Asian turkey salad; roasted pork loin with orange- chile glaze; baby bok choy and shiitake mushrooms; ricotta-almond cheesecake. The downside to this book: it could use more menu suggestions. The upside to this book: metric conversion charts. The pix are also showy. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 8. PIE (Cassell Illustrated, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84403-548-4, $32.95 hard covers) is by Angela Boggiano, a UK magazine food writer and author of other cookbooks. Some of the early history of pies is covered, starting with Egypt. Of basic interest is that fact that pastry was originally meant to be discarded – it was just a flour and water type of seal. The idea of stuffed flaky pastry seems to have been recorded at the 9th century French Abbey of Fontenelle, which produced 38 goose and 95 chicken pies for one occasion. Of course, this book covers the basics of making pastry and doing decorating curves and flutings. Pies include portable pasties for work or picnics, Christmas mince pies, little pies, sweet pies, and enormous pies. Chapters cover home pies, hand pies (small pies of sausage rolls, pasties, samosas, and turnovers), pies for special occasions, sweet pies, and Christmas. In the recipes all the ingredients are scaled, and both English and metric measurements are used for each ingredient. Audience and level of use: pie lovers, dessert fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: braised lamb shank pie; steak and kidney pie; lamb, mint and pumpkin pie (with toasted cumin pastry); mini-pork and pancetta pies; lemon curd and jam pies; treacle pie. The downside to this book: the list of ingredients in each recipe is expressed in run-on fashion, and the prep is hard to follow – unless you are used to such devices. Whose idea was this?? The upside to this book: both English and metric measurements are used for each ingredient. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 9. HANDBOOK FOR HOSTS; a practical guide to party planning and gracious entertaining (Hearts Books, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 1-58816-554-X, $23.95 hardbound) is by Adam Bluestein and Town & Country magazine. It covers gracious hosting with confidence, concerning etiquette and party planning. First up are the mechanics of compiling the guest list, readying the house, food and drink estimation, hiring the caterers and/or wait staff. Selecting a restaurant or banquet hall (if need be). For beginners, the book sets the scene with candles and a buffet table. Topics include making guests feel comfortable, filling lulls in conversation, dealing with awkward situations (overdrinking, forgetting names), and many timetables for the action. Sidebars cover decanting wine, throwing a party in a small apartment, overnight guests, and party music (Porter, Sinatra, saxophones, Broadway). More details are at townandcountry.com Audience and level of use: party givers, beginners at entertaining. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: parties are all about details. The downside to this book: there are no food preps here, nor recipes. Also, there is nothing on cleanup or on evaluation. The upside to this book: bibliography for further reading. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. HUMMUS and 65 other delicious & healthy chickpea recipes (Sterling Publishing, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-4027- 3365-8, $19.95 paper covers) is by Avner Laskin, who is not identified in or on the book, nor in the publisher’s catalogue. Maybe he’s a house name, like Betty Crocker...Anyway, this unique book is dedicated to the chickpea legume, (also known as garbanzo bean, ceci bean, bengal gram). And of course not everything here is hummus – only 10 preps are hummus. There are also three falafel recipes. All the preps call for dried chickpeas except for two (pumpkin and chickpea soup, chickpeas in puff pastry) which call for canned chickpeas. These have a different texture and taste. Some preps call for chickpea flour (or besan or chana flour) such as chickpeas pancakes, farinata, chickpea bread, and panelle. The dried chickpeas need to be soaked overnight and then cooked for two hours. So this is not a spontaneous product, unless you make a lot of it at once and keep the balance as leftovers or freeze it. Audience and level of use: chickpea lovers, Middle East food fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tomato, spinach and chickpea salad; Thai chickpea salad; mushroom and chickpea soup; chickpea cassoulet. The downside to this book: where is socca? Farinata from Liguria is here, but not socca. They are the same thing, but this needs to be stated. There are no cross-references either. The upside to this book: single product book. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 11. THE WINES OF CHILE (Mitchell Beazley, 2006, distr. Canadian Manda Group, 368 pages, ISBN 1-84533-122-2, $45.95 hard covers) is by Peter Richards, a young award-winning UK wine writer specializing in Chilean wines. It updates Chris Fielden’s 2001 book on Latin American wines, which devoted 80 pages to Chile. It also updates my wariness of Latin American travel. In the Acknowledgements, Richards mentions a thief who stole his valuable money and ID from a bar in Santiago. Fielden in HIS Acknowledgments mentions a thief at the Caracas airport who stole his money, ID and his notes. What are the odds that virtually the same thing happened to another wine writer? Anyway, modern wine in Chile is but a decade old. Richards gives a history of the wine industry, examines the wide range of wine styles and winemaking techniques, discusses the marketing issues, and then presents us with the best wine from 120 producers out of 250 registered wineries. The book is arranged by the ten regions, north to south, with sketchy location wine maps. This basic reference book has the usual contact data, viticultural and winemaking chapters, a look at icon wines, some generalized tasting notes, and a concluding glossary. Foreign investment comes from France (40% of it) and the US (20%). Even Ontario’s Magnotta Winery owns vineyards. And they are all looking for ways to sell quality wines at $60 or more a bottle – will people want to buy such icon quality (I’ve tasted them, and the quality IS there) after being used to whole streams of modest wines? This is the marketing conundrum: convincing the consumer to trade up to quality. Audience and level of use: wine scholars, schools of hospitality and wine, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Vina Santa Carolina, a major player in the Ontario market, went through a big and heavy reorganization in 2004/5; it will take until 2010 before it is completed. Many Chilean wines we get in Ontario come from Rapel, which is in the Cachapoal region south of Santiago. The downside to this book: maps are too brief and flat, the TNs are too generalized. The upside to this book: there are a few notes on Chilean Spanish (words and pronunciation), which merges Spanish with indigenous native words. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 12. COOKING & TRAVELLING IN SOUTH-WEST FRANCE (Lantern, 2002, 2006; distr. Penguin, 292 pages, ISBN 1-920989-24-2, $42 paper covers) is by Australian food writer and restaurateur Stephanie Alexander, who has authored at least ten food books. It was originally published in 2002, and here it is re-issued as a paperbound book. She describes this work as a personal journey through the southwest section of France, principally the Lot and the Dordogne, with commentary on local producers, food markets, local culture and traditions, restaurants for eating out, plus, of course, 80 recipes. Along the way she introduces farmhouse cheeses, walnuts and foie gras (plus confit). Other noteworthy chapters include topics on prunes and plums, mushrooms, chestnuts, truffles, and wines. There is a glossary, a contacts list for France, a sources list for Australia and New Zealand only, a bibliography, and some pretty good photos. Measurements are Imperial only for volumes and both Imperial and metric for weights, but no tables of equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 13. THE WINES OF CANADA. Revised and updated edition (Whitecap, 2006, 312 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-832-5, $24.95 paper covers) is by John Schreiner, a well-known Canadian wine writer with a half-dozen or so Canadian wine books under his belt. A few years back he wrote the definitive book on Icewine, and “The World of Canadian Wine”. In fact, he had just revised his book on B.C. wines for Whitecap (my wine book of the month for April 2005), so many of his comments on B.C. wines have unfortunately been duplicated here. This current book is an updating of his 2005 book of the same title as published by Mitchell Beazley, in a (by now) standard format for the Mitchell Beazley wine library: some sketch maps, vintage charts, production figures, no illustrations, a history of the industry, the different grape varieties, the terroirs and wine styles, and a division of wineries into top level and all the rest (giving for each some directory information such as names, addresses, websites, description of the winery, some biographical data about the owner and/or winemaker). There are also star ratings on wine quality but no tasting notes. Schreiner, like the other authors, contributes some opinions about current trends. He also adds a chapter on Vincor and its role on the international wine scene. But even his revision came out too late to incorporate the sale of Vincor to Constellation Brands. Totally unique in this book is the section on icewines. Schreiner also adds fruit wines, ciders and meads, for winemaking in Canada is still a small industry. There are only about 135 licenses in B.C., slightly fewer in Ontario, and only a handful in the other provinces (mostly fruit and cideries). Since my detailed knowledge of Canadian wines is greater than my detailed knowledge of the wines of other countries, I came across some errors of fact, and these have been corrected in the new edition. New material here includes new wineries in Prince Edward County and BC, adding five more pages to the total. Audience and level of use: lovers of Canadian wines, wine schools, wine professionals. Some interesting or unusual facts: About Thirty Bench wines, he says “This is a winery where three heads are better than one.” But now the winery has been sold (noted in the last line of its entry), and the three heads are no more. In fact, there have been severe changes in the Canadian wine industry over the past year, and it is impossible to be uptodate everywhere. What I don’t like about this book: there are no tasting notes, just overall quality assessments. While the index has been redone, there are still some blind entries, such as to the non-existent Grape Tree Winery cited on p.118. What I do like about this book: fruit wineries and cideries are included, and there are internal page references. Quality/Price Ratio: 92. 14. THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO CANADIAN ARTISANAL CHEESE (Whitecap, 2006, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-760-1, $29.95 paper covers) is by Gurth Pretty, a Canadian professional chef who has worked in many kitchens around the world, and is also now a food writer of books and articles. He covers over 1700 cheeses from about 150 producers in 8 provinces. Quebec, naturally, has the most with 74, followed by Ontario (24) and BC (15). He didn’t get around to everybody, and there is a short list of some 17 fromageries with just names and addresses. The others all have necessary contact information, hours of opening, pictures of labels and the cheeses, type of milk used, type of cheeses produced, where to buy it, local attractions to visit, and other tourist data. He begins with basic info on the evolution of the Canadian cheese industry, plus how to deal with cheese at home, and concludes with thirty basic recipes which use cheese. At the back there are a glossary, a bibliography, and multiple indexes by cheese name, by type of milk, and by recipe. There is more technical directory-type data at Agriculture Canada (www2.agr.ca/dairyinfo/english/chees-from-v_e.cfm). So the book is part tour guide, part industry directory, and part cookbook. Audience and level of use: case lovers everywhere, reference libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: garlic oka gratinee soup; Portuguese corvo cornbread. The downside to this book: the directory section has pretty tourist pictures, not really that much use to the cheese lover. But some people like to travel a “cheese trail” of discovery. Maybe we also need a wine and cheese trail next time: Aspler, meet Pretty... The upside to this book: he has both Imperial and metric measurements for each ingredient. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 15. THE LIQUID KITCHEN GROOVY DRINKS (Whitecap, 2006, 214 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-830-1, $29.95 paper covers) And 16. THE LIQUID KITCHEN PARTY DRINKS (Whitecap, 2006, 207 pages, ISBN 978-1-55285-838-7, $29.95 paper covers) are by Hayden Wood, a world champion bartender from Australia. Both books were published by Murdoch Books in 2004. The “Groovy” book won a prize, and both have been repackaged for the Canadian market by Whitecap in 2006. The “Party” book can be considered part two or volume two of a set. These are typical bar books, covering setups and glassware in the first book along with short and long drinks, liqueurs, martinis, punches, tea and coffee as well as kids’ drinks. The second book has gourmet fancy cocktails, fizzes, tall drinks, “new” classics redesigned, fruit whips and smoothies, and hot drinks. So you’ll need them both. Audience and level of use: beginner levels. The downside to this book: the resource list is all Oz (mostly New South Wales), and the pix are too partyish with not enough graphic material about the drinks themselves. The upside to this book: both Imperial and metric measurements are used for each ingredient. Quality/Price Rating: 83. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR DECEMBER 2006 ============================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! This being December, readers are in the mood for HOLIDAY GIFTS – see my complete article at www.deantudor.com or see the series at Gremolata www.gremolata.com . Direct URLS are www.gremolata.com/holidaybooks2006a.htm and www.gremolata.com/holidaybooks2006b.htm www.gremolata.com/holidaybooks2006c.htm www.gremolata.com/holidaybooks2006d.htm Other books, received too late for the Gremolata series, include the following. Any of these would make a great gift, either because they can stuff a stocking, or they are small, or they are modest in price: * JANE AUSTEN’S GUIDE TO GOOD MANNERS; compliments, charades, & horrible blunders (Bloomsbury, 2006, 135 pages, $22.95 hardbound) is Josephine Ross’ take on etiquette based on Jane Austen’s writings. Ross is eminently qualified since she is the author of “Jane Austen; a companion”. Topics include how to pay and return formal visits ands calls, how to refuse a proposal of marriage, how (and who) to lead off the dancing at a ball, what to wear for a morning walk. The writing style is intended for Austen’s original readers (Regency period). Full- colour illustrations by Henrietta Webb. A definite must for all Janeites. * THE MURRAY’S CHEESE HANDBOOK; more than 300 of the world’s best cheeses (Broadway Books, 2006, 230 pages, $16.95 paper covers) is by Rob Kaufelt. It is a portable dictionary-arranged guide, complete with glossary, cheese tasting notes, and bibliography. There are several indexes: by milk, by country (Canada only has Oka and Chevre Noir, the latter a goat’s milk cheddar from Quebec), by pasteurization, by type, by name protection of AOC or DOP or DO, by vegetarian cheese, and by alcoholic beverage pairing. No illustrations (keeps the price down) and cheeses listed are only those available in the US marketplace. * DEATH BY PAD THAI; and other unforgettable meals (Three Rivers Press, 2006, 239 pages, $18.95 paper covers) has been edited by Douglas Bauer. Twenty writers (plus Bauer) write on romance, family, celebration, disappointment – all over the meals. The stories are personal, funny, and sad. Diana Abu-Jaber has a written a book of food memoirs “The Language of Baklava”; here, she writes of a return to Jordan and adds a recipe for a yogurt variation. Peter Mayle (think Provence) has an extract from his book “French Lessons”, and here he tells about how he learned to eat. There are stories from both Jane and Michael Stern. Pulitzer Prize winner Richard Russo (“Empire Falls”) chimes in from Maine with stories on surf and turf. Twelve recipes are scattered throughout the book. * THE WORLD’S GREATEST WINES (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2006, 600 pages, $56 hardbound) is by Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve, both editors of the wine guide “La Revue du Vin de France”. It was originally published in French in Switzerland. Wines are included from all over the world, although France gets a huge chunk of the presentation. Canada has one wine, Inniskillin’s Icewine, covered on one page with a reproduction of the label, some notes about the four styles (Riesling, Vidal, Cabernet Franc, and sparkling), a location map, and profile texts. Most times there is an accompanying photo. Comparisons are made for French readers, e.g., on p496, they state about the Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine, “The European wine lover will find the Cabernet rose, with its rhubarb-like aromas, novel but unconvincing.” There are supposed to be 365 great wines covered, one for each day of the year if you can afford it. New World wines include cabernets from California, malbecs from Argentina, and sauvignon blancs from New Zealand. An informative book, a bit heavy on the French wines, but at just over 3 kilos in weight, an impressive gift to your greatest wine lover. * DIM SUM (Tuttle Publishing, 2006, 96 pages, $16.50 hardbound) is by Oz food writer and stylist Vicki Liley. It is one of a small series of straight ahead preps, about 54 in all. Here the dim sum cover crispy wontons, fritters, apps, rice dishes, spring rolls and pancakes, steamed buns, steamed dumplings, plus dipping sauces and desserts. Both metric and English measurements are used for each ingredient. * TRUFFLES (Frances Lincoln, 2006, 176 pages, $45 hardbound) is by multiple-award winner Elizabeth Luard (books, television) who seems to have done everything. Here she describes the where, why and how of truffles, both black and white, as found in France and Italy. She also has notes on truffles from other countries, such as Oregon, the summer truffles of England, some in China, others in Arabia. Richly photographed, with thorough treatment of the truffle. Twenty-five recipes, many with eggs. * A TALE OF 12 KITCHENS; family cooking in four countries (Artisan, 2006, 256 pages, $29.95 papercovers) is by Jake Tilson, a UK artist (plus photographer, designer, typographer) and cook who tries to place food into a culturally visual context of the way it is grown, packaged, bought and cooked. At the same time he constructs memories for 80 evocative recipes. The four countries are US, France, Italy, and Britain. Gorgeously designed, and as Claudia Roden wrote “an enchantingly evocative memoir of food and cooking”. * LIFE IS MEALS; a food lover’s book of days (Knopf, 2006, 461 pages, hardbound) has been pulled together by James and Kay Salter. Author James has written nine previous books. There is something here, from the literary and food world, for every day of the year – but this is not a calendar or an appointment book. It is an illustrated companion, beginning with New Year’s Day and moving through to New Year’s Eve. Each day has some culinary wisdom or recipe (there are 46 food and drink preps here) or history tidbit. For example, under the date of the sinking of the Titanic you’ll find the final menu. Or quotes on food from Queen Victoria and Winnie the Pooh, plus others. Or how to decide whom to invite to a dinner party – and whom not to. Or where in Paris Samuel Beckett and Harold Pinter had French onion soup at 4 AM. Great watercolours by Fabrice Moireau. * THE CALIFORNIA DIRECTORY OF FINE WINERIES; third edition (Wine House Press, 2006, 144 pages, $25.95 hardbound) is a book package, with Marty Olmstead a travel writer, and Robert Holmes a photographer (there are 180 photos here), plus a slew of designers and copyeditors. Sixty-one wineries are covered, in Napa (35), Sonoma (21) and Mendocino (5). Each is profiled and is physically described (layout of winery operations, buildings, gardens), along with reproductions of labels. Various sidebars list directions, vineyard tours, wine tastings, culinary events, and nearby attractions. Maps show these wineries plus about 100 others within the counties. For example, in Napa, there are Beaulieu, Beringer, Cakebread, and Silver Oak. In Sonoma, there are Arrowood, Benziger, and Chateau St.Jean. There are also no tasting notes, nor any recipes, but the book is very useful for trips and tastings. * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE ART OF DECANTING; bringing wine to life (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 132 pages, ISBN 0-8118-5679-8, $20.95 hard covers) is by Sandra Jordan, creative director of Jordan Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg, California. It is a new take on wine matters, one not seen too often. Part history and wine rituals, part culture and wine appreciation – the book (with a good preface by Robert Mondavi) stresses the pleasures of presenting, serving, and sharing a favourite bottle of wine. It is a literate primer on wine and culture, with good background on wine accoutrements. Questions asked and answered include whether to decant a young wine, an older wine, an older vintage (and how), whether to quickly transfer wine from a decanter to a glass, what effect the shape of the glass will have on the wine, and more. She describes and discusses decanters and their shapes, bottle tickets, corkscrews, wine funnels, coasters, candling, wine vessels, coolers (buckets), monteiths, wineglasses, tastevins, bottle carriers, and wine service furniture. There are many historical pictures from the Bridgeman Art Gallery, as well as vessels from Jordan’s own collection. Audience and level of use: wine collectors, those wine lovers who entertain. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there is a vintner’s menu for a dinner, along with recipes (amuse bouche, onions and mushrooms, coq au vin, cheese platter, and hot chocolate cakes) with accompanying Jordan wines. The downside to this book: it was a short book, could have said more (cost more too). The upside to this book: there is a bibliography and a working index. Quality/Price Rating: at this price level, it represents very good value, 93. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. INTO THE VIETNAMESE KITCHEN (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 344 pages, ISBN 1-58008-665-9, $44 hard covers) is by Andrea Nguyen, a food writer and culinary instructor. She looks after www.vietworldkitchen.com. The basic cuisine is, of course, French influenced. This is yet another heavy book (3.75 pounds) with many illustrative photos. It is also part memoir, with information on local and regional cuisines. Her book is based on her mother’s little orange notebook that she carried with her when she left Vietnam in 1975. Most recipes here, like many oriental dishes, take only 45 minutes or less to prepare. There is a nice collection of pho noodle soups, clay pot preps, sandwiches and charcuterie. She has arranged her book by product or course, with lots of cook’s notes and indicated variations. Not only does she have extensive notes on the larder/pantry and spices/herbs, but she has good advice on how and where to shop on p335-336. There are also some terrific endorsements from John Thorne (who has been MIA for some time), Naomi Duguid, and Colman Andrews. Audience and level of use: this is a fine reference book. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: corn and coconut fritters; green papaya salad; rice soup with chicken, seafood and mushrooms; honey-roasted duck legs; catfish simmered in caramel sauce; grilled trout handrolls. The downside to this book: resources are mainly US, except for Richter’s in Ontario. There are no metric tables of weights and measures equivalents. The upside to this book: the bibliography is of both English and Vietnamese books. The index covers ingredients in both English and Vietnamese terms. Quality/Price Rating: 91. 3. BRITISH REGIONAL FOOD; a cook’s tour of Britain and Ireland (Quadrille, 2006; distr. Ten Speed Press, 240 pages, ISBN 1-84400-834- 9, $49.95 hard covers) is by Mark Hix, a well-known UK corporate chef who is also a distinguished food writer (he was voted Cookery Journalist of the Year in 2005). He has chosen about 100 recipes for both traditional and updated plates, with local favourites from all parts of the country (Scotland, Wales, England, and Ireland). Each region gets its own chapter. England is the largest area, covering London, the South, the Southwest, the Midlands, the East, and the North – all in 120 pages. Wales has 20 pages, Scotland clocks 30 pages, and Ireland (Northern and Eire) gets 25. Each has features on local food producers and artisans, plus notes on cultures. Thus he deals with Welsh seaweed, Cornish pasty, Lancashire toffee and treacle, plus the ubiquitous bubble and squeak, kedgeree, and roast lamb. The type face is pretty large, and there are lots of photos. Audience and level of use: British food lovers, travelers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: colcannon; sorrel, beetroot, and goat cheese salad; apple and blackberry jelly; pot roast pork loin with scrumpy (cider); lardy cake; roast michaelmas goose with apple sauce. The downside to this book: the book checks in at over 2.5 pounds in weight, a bit cumbersome in the kitchen. The upside to this book: there’s a directory listing of producers. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 4. CHARLIE PALMER’S PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE NEW AMERICAN KITCHEN (Melcher Media, 2006; distr. DK, 208 pages, ISBN 1-59591-013-1, $40 paper covers) is by the founder of the Charlie Palmer Group, a chef who has established about a dozen restaurants and catering businesses across the United States. This is a cooking manual for casual cooks. Its main schtick is that it is a completely waterproof book, with a durable stain-resistant format. Food splatters can be sponged off. There are lots of menu ideas, with page references and lots of wine recommendations. His basic topics are quick foods, home dates for couples (dinners for two), holidays and buffets, formal dinner parties, and brunches. His data base is 135 recipes. Audience and level of use: harried home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tuna and avocado tartares; slow-roasted beets; fennel-dusted calamari; braised pork belly; pulled pork sandwiches; lobster risotto. The downside to this book: there’s a meat temperature chart but no charts for metric equivalents to the US volume measurements. The upside to this book: good layout and photos. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. 2, 4, 6, 8 GREAT MEALS FOR COUPLES OR CROWDS (Clarkson Potter, 2006, 303 pages, ISBN 1-4000-8256-0, $26.95 paper covers) is by Rachel Ray, bouncy host of any number of Food Network shows and author of a dozen quick and easy cookbooks. In fact, she must be the leading author by sales of cookbooks in the 21st century. Thirty minutes or it’s free? Will Clarkson Potter refund the selling price to you? The PR does say “guaranteeing that no matter what the occasion you can whip up the perfect meal”. You’ll need a pantry/larder for this book (or almost any quick and easy cook book) plus some last minute shopping, which isn’t too bad if you do it on the way home from work and provided that there is a decent food store between you and work. Her schtick is the 30- minute menus broken down by numbers, which is great if you are not innumerate (i.e., arithmetically-challenged). She has dinners for two (25 preps for brunch, lunch, or midnight), family suppers for four (34 preps), feasts for six (22 preps here), and spreads for eight (19). She encourages frozen or canned convenience foods, as well as purchased desserts – “bought made” instead of “house made”. For coolness, the design has blue green colours for the typefaces, with bold face employed for the ingredients in the recipes. US volume measurements are used throughout. Audience and level of use: it was number one on the New York Times Best Seller list for how to books before I even got a review copy! Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for the primavera spring supper you’ll need to make sweet potato and onion tortellini with ricotta, a bresaola and prosciutto salad, and offer coffee and biscotti for dessert. For a Tuscan meal for four, you’ll need to do wine steeped greens, veal and sage meatloaf with gorgonzola gravy, smashed potatoes with prosciutto and parmigiano, and a purchased dessert. In half an hour for Tuscany? I doubt it, even if you leave your running shoes on (the ones you use between home and work). The downside to this book: no metric table of equivalents. Also (and I have not read every single word in this book), does she know what she writes? “Marsala or other sherry” on p123? The upside to this book: extensive index, and there are some nice ideas here, but the book is too entry level for her fans whose culinary skills surely must be moving on by now. Quality/Price Rating: 76. 6. THE COCKTAIL CHEF; entertaining in style (Douglas & McIntyre, 2006, 240 pages, ISBN 1-55365-187-1, $35 paper covers) is by Dinah Koo and Janice Poon. Koo has been a well-known caterer and food store operator in Toronto for some time; Poon is a well-known graphics person who also does food styling for cookbooks. John Szabo, my WWCC wine writer colleague, did the wine notes. The first part of the book deals with the bar. There are cocktail recipes, with their exotic takes on standards (variations on martinis, cosmopolitans, margaritas, collins, and sangrias). There are some basic wine tasting guide notes (why are these here? You don’t need this except at a wine tasting, which is actually one of the suggested party menus, but is really too simple to justify a “course” in how to taste wine at this level, involving a Master Sommelier). The cookbook team has some great notes on creating a cheeseboard and on creating a raw bar (both with good wine notes). They talk about how to design a cocktail party, for all kinds of numbers. They have a collection of “mood rules” and “food rules” – and they pay attention to cleaning up accidents, music, decorations, etc. They then move on to present eight essential appetizers (spiced nuts, pot stickers, chicken skewers, stuffed baguettes, et al). The heart of the book are the seven “perfect” parties, such has the useful “cinq a sept” (which is actually the only true cocktail party you will ever need), a wine tasting party, a poker party, a beach party for 40, a New Year’s Day brunch for 30, and others. Schedules are given, and you can make up your own topics for parties. You just need the numbers. The brunch for 30 can be slotted anywhere, and the beach party for 40 can be at a ski lodge. John Szabo contributes wine and beer alternatives to the cocktails presented. Volume measurements are used, not metric. Endorsed by Joanne Kates and Lucy Waverman. Audience and level of use: the book weighs just under a kilo, useful to read but hard to maneuver. I usually photocopy the recipes I try out anyway. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: prosciutto and chevre- stuffed figs with walnuts; pesto parmesan palmiers; fluffy homemade marshmallows; sundried tomato garbanzo dip; spicy lemon edamame; feta- stuffed lamb meatballs with tomato olive tapenade; Peking duck quesadillas. The downside to this book: there are no tables of metric equivalents to weights and measures, which is really strange in a metric country like Canada. Since the book is also being published for the US market, I expect that point was a factor. Still, it only takes up a page...Also, I did not appreciate the continuing use of the pictures of the cheap and inefficient wing corkscrew. The upside to this book: lots of sandwiches and small plate ideas. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 7. GANONG; a sweet history of chocolate (Goose Lane Editions, 2006, 136 pages, ISBN 0-86492-480-1, $24.95 hardbound) is by David Folster, a long-time Maritime journalist who also wrote “The Chocolate Ganongs of St. Stephen, New Brunswick” (it was shortlisted for the 1990 “Canadian Business Book of the Year Award”), a narrative business history. Here he swings more down memory lane with a short account of the popularity of the Ganong chocolates. By short (it’s more like an essay), I mean that this book is loaded with colourful illustrative material and the text’s typeface is large. Some material has been corrected and brought up to date as of this year. There are lots of archival advertisements on every page (they were quite the marketers), plus photos of the factory and offices and people involved. At one time this family-owned business produced 1100 different kinds of chocolates and confections, since 1873. It developed the first All-day Sucker, the five-cent chocolate nut bar, the Maritime Chicken Bone. It was the first company in Canada to use the heart-shaped chocolate box, first for Christmas and later for Valentine’s Day. “Delecto” brand is their most famous chocolate name. Folster also details the company’s war efforts and the impact of the firm on the local economy. Audience and level of use: candy collectors, Canadiana lovers, libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “Our candies are good to eat, of that I am certain. I eat large quantities every day” (Arthur Ganong, 1906) The downside to this book: within its limits, this is a fine book. The upside to this book: there is an index. Quality/Price Rating: 92 – great value for the price. 8. CRAZY WATER, PICKLED LEMONS; enchanting dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean, and North Africa (Mitchell Beazley, 2002, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84533-284-9, $25.95 paper covers) is by Diana Henry, a UK food writer, currently doing a column for the Sunday Telegraph. This book was originally published in 2002, it was her first book (she has written two more food books since), and it was a Glenfiddich prize winner. It has been reissued for the North American market, in paper covers and endorsed by Claudia Roden. The whole Med basin is covered (Spanish Catalan Stuffed Chicken, Middle Eastern Orange Cake, Persian appetizers) in these 100 preps. Each dish has been chosen for its fragrance of spice or herbs or sweetness. There are extensive cook’s notes. Ingredients are listed with volume and metric measurements both given, a good sign. But this is offset by the lighter typeface and the lack of indexing for most indigenous names of plates (how does one find b’stilla? It’s there, try looking for it). Nevertheless, the book is a good reprint. Some interesting recipes: meringue and rose cake with summer berries; thyme, oregano and citrus roasted poussins; migas; lamb and mint pilaf; pomegranate couscous. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 9. RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be special notes or preps, or items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of books – a) MORNING FOOD; breakfasts, brunches & more for savoring the best part of the day (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 202 pages, ISBN 1-58008-782-5, $24.95 paper covers) is by Margaret S. Fox and John B. Bear. For 23 years, Margaret Fox created breakfasts and brunches at Cafe Beaujolais on the Mendocino coast. Her book was first published in 1990, the restaurant was sold in 2000, and this is her revised edition, published in 2006. She has retained all her signature dishes, but has also revisited many recipes to lighten them up in terms of contemporary awareness of fats and carbos. Oat bran has been cut back, and the yields refigured. Of the 150 recipes, 30 are new. Endorsed by Julia Child and Nell Newman (of Newman’s Own). Typical recipes include cold fusion soup, sausage stuffed apples, banana-pecan pineapple ice cream waffle sundae, and china moon shanghai rice. No table of metric weights and measure equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 87. b) SEASONED IN THE SOUTH; recipes from Crook’s Corner and from home (Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill, 2006; distr. Thomas Allen, 244 pages, ISBN 1-56512-550-9, $18.95 paper covers) is by Bill Smith, chef at Crook’s Corner for more than a decade. The hard bound version of this book was published in 2005; this 2006 paperback is a “new expanded edition with more recipes and seasonal menus”. The original book was chosen as a “Food & Wine” magazine Best of the Best Cookbook. The restaurant first opened in 1982, and over the years it had gained in stature as one of the best places to eat “Southern” food. The arrangement of the book is by the seasons, beginning with the Fall (unlike most other books which begin with Spring). Menus he has added include an outdoor supper (crab stew, mustard slaw, roasted oysters, lemon pie) or “snowed in” (pinto beans with duck and sausage, green salad with Dijon vinaigrette, pineapples in Madeira) or Christ Eve supper, New Year’s Day, Memorial Day week at the beach. Good fun, despite the lack of both chess pie and a metric table of weights and measures equivalents. On holidays in Quebec City, he orders broiled veal kidneys. Imagine, if you will, his astonishment when he says “Its accompaniment is a plate of French fries with mayonnaise – yes, mayonnaise, and nothing more.” What rock has he been living under? Quality/Price Rating: 85. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR NOVEMBER 2006 ============================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINES OF SPAIN, second edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 440 pages, ISBN 1-84533-100-1, $38.95 hard covers) is by the world renowned UK wine writer, Julian Jeffs who specializes in Spanish wines and sherry. His last book was in 2004, on Sherry. Here, he writes about all of Spain in this fully revised and updated edition of his former Faber and Faber epic (he was also that series editor). His regional approach gives basic data at the beginning of each section (geography, climate, soils, grapes, planting, vineyard area, yields, production, and vintages). There are 11 regions, from the well-known Rioja and Castilla y Leon through to Andalusia, Valdepenas, and even the Islands. In addition to table wines he also delves into sherry and cava sparklers (but not brandies). For each producer there are the usual addresses, websites, phone and fax numbers, thumbnail history, and a variety of general tasting notes. He concludes with a glossary of grapes and of wine terms. Audience and level of use: Spanish wine lovers, schools of hospitality, wine schools, reference libraries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The acknowledged pioneer in Spanish wines was Miguel Torres, who virtually created Penedes as a fine wine area, plus forged links with California through his sister and bought vineyards in Chile. Most changes in Spain came about after its entry into the EU. The downside to this book: there are only brief notes about the actual wines. The upside to this book: useful black and white sketch maps Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE SUSHI EXPERIENCE (Alfred E. Knopf, 2006, 283 pages, ISBN 1-4000- 4208-9, $54 hard covers) is by Hiroko Shimbo, a trained sushi chef, restaurant consultant, cookbook author, and food writer. It has been sometime since a sushi book has been published, and it might be some time before the next one, since this book is fairly comprehensive. It is both a reference book and an instructional book, very handy indeed. It covers boxed sushi, sushi rolls, hand rolls, pressed sushi, nigiri- zushi, sushi pouches, sushi salads, and sushi dolls to make with children. There is also vital material on how to buy raw fish. For the home cook, she shows how to make sushi rice, how to shape the rice around fillings, and how to make sauces and condiments. 240 photos and illustrations do a good job of showing how it is done. She has sources for Japanese produce and equipment, unfortunately all US for us in Canada. The bibliography is of Japanese books, some of which have been translated. Audience and level of use: hospitality schools, cooking schools, the inquiring home cook. Some interesting or unusual facts: sushi actually started out as a way to preserve fish. The downside to this book: no mention of “Bento” box, a popular word in North America. There are also no tables of metric equivalents for the weights and measurements. The upside to this book: there is a handy chart attached to the inside back cover, which summarizes what sushi are available. The idea is to take it to the sushi bar and discuss the matter. This is useful, but it can be ripped out of the cover and stolen from the bookstore or library. Both English and Japanese words are indexed. Quality/Price Rating: 93. 3. MARGARET FULTON’S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF FOOD & COOKERY. Rev. and updated. (Hardie Grant Books, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 618 pages, ISBN 1-74066-270-9, $40.95 hard covers) was first issued in 1983. It had sold more than 1.5 million copies. This edition has been completely revised and updated for today’s audience. And it is now being distributed in Canada. As a kitchen companion, it has all the usual reference material about techniques, buying and storing, cooking and preserving. There are many step-by-step guides here. The book is arranged alphabetically, but there is a comprehensive index. Eggplants, courgettes, aubergines, and zucchinis are all cross-referenced. Over 1500 basic recipes, with a strong UK/Oz orientation (e.g. jellied beetroot). Audience and level of use: Australian ex-pats, those looking for a basic book. The downside to this book: this is the basic kitchen bible in Australia, slightly different from us in Canada. There is a mix of both imperial and metric measurements in the recipes (that is, there are both forms for weights but only imperial for the volumes). The upside to this book: this is the basic kitchen bible in Australia, slightly different from us in Canada. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 4. KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL; adventures in the culinary underbelly (Random House Audio, 2000, RHCD 851, unabridged, 8 hours and 20 minutes on 7 CDs, ISBN 0-7393-3235-X, $27.95 special price for the set) is by Anthony Bourdain, the bad boy of American chefdom. It has been reissued at a lower price; hence, this mini-review. The book and audio reveal what Bourdain calls “twenty-five years of sex, drugs, bad behaviour and haute cuisine.” In 1999, he wrote for the New Yorker “Don’t Eat Before Reading This”. He expanded that feature into the current book. On the audio, he reads his own material. And of course, since then, he has gone into to bigger and better things on the Food Network. Audience and level of use: food lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: one can learn about drug dealers in the East Village. The downside to this audio: no index or thematic guide or contents are listed. The upside to this audio: all made more graphic by actually hearing about it. Quality/Price Rating: good price, 90. 5. MAKE MINE VODKA; 250 classic cocktails and cutting-edge infusions (Stewart Tabori and Chang, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 1-58479-543-3, $24.95 hard covers) is by Susan Waggoner and Robert Markel. They had previously authored the successful “Cocktail Hour” and “Vintage Cocktails”, and this is third book in the bestselling series. They compare labels by origin, key ingredient, price and ultimate use. The illustrations are of vintage art, from classics to modern. The authors add material on how to make one’s own infusions and garnishes. Basic recipes begin with an “appletini” plus variations. Audience and level of use: vodka lovers Some interesting or unusual facts: there are 200 different vodkas in the US market. This figure includes flavoured varieties too. Americans drank over 40 million 9 litre cases in 2006, up from 34 million in 1996. The downside to this book: fairly comprehensive, hard to fault it. The upside to this book: there is a market since vodka is the new alcool, the new base. The book’s design is retro in style, which makes it friendly and approachable. Quality/Price Rating: 87, 6. THE BIG BOOK OF COCKTAILS; 365 mouthwatering mixes, shakers, and shots (Duncan Baird, 2003, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84483-327-5, $25.95 spiral bound) is by Brian Lucas. It is one of the “365” series. It was first published in the UK in 2003, and is now available in North America. The Big Book series always has some 365 preps on a topic, one for each day of the year, and the books are always spiral bound so that they can be flat on the counter. There is the usual bar material of layering techniques and glass shapes and zesting and salting rims, plus the usual classic cocktails. Each recipe gets an alcohol rating so one can see how much is being consumed. Measurements are given for each ingredient in both metric and imperial, a boon. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 7. THE IMPROVISATIONAL COOK (William Morrow, 2006, 393 pages, ISBN 0- 06-073164-8, $44.95) is by Sally Schneider, author of “A New Way to Cook” (which was a James Beard and an IACP award winner). She also has a syndicated column, “The Improvisational Cook”. More details are at www.anewwaytocook.com. Here is a good source of relatively easy recipes for an improvisational combination of flavours. She has all the basics of flavours covered in a synoptic guide. The idea is to master the basic recipe and then riff off it through variations of altering, adapting, or embellishing each dish. Here too one would learn how to deal with accidents and how to cover them up. We call this food morphing. I once shopped an idea in 1969 for a variation cookbook (basic recipe plus riffs) but no publisher in Canada went for it. Most of the preps here are useful in creating a large pantry or larder, and then one can build on that with meats, veggies, or another cooking method. My wife has a backroom that is full of “scratch” materials, as in “cooking from scratch”. Audience and level of use: home cooks Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: slow-roasted tomatoes (variations: add herbs or a spice blend, layer onto pizza dough or into casseroles, chop and puree into a sauce, sweeten with honey or brown sugar for savoury jam, etc.); other masters for rustic root vegetable soup (plus 4 riffs), po-mo fries (plus 5 riffs), cauliflower and apple puree (plus 4 riffs), slow roasted fish with fragrant fennel (plus 5 riffs). The downside to this book: more photos would have been useful, plus a metric table of equivalents. The upside to this book: some original ideas here, plus a good confidence builder. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. LUCY’S KITCHEN; signature recipes and culinary secrets (Random House Canada, 2006, 288 pages, ISBN 0-679-31457-1, $35 paper covers) is by Lucy Waverman, who has authored eight cookbooks (including the Gold Medal at Cuisine Canada 2005 for “A Matter of Taste”). This is her third cookbook for Random House Canada. Some of the material has come from her Globe and LCBO Food & Drink columns, but here with the emphasis on tips and techniques plus ingredient information. To that end, she has separate indexes for “culinary skills” and for “ingredient information” at the back of the book. Specific topics include how to handle disasters and how to avoid mistakes, finding and using specialty ingredients, basic equipment, and employing chef school techniques. The recipes are fusion world cuisine type. Audience and level of use: for the home cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: winter apple pudding; Emerald Edamame dip; mushroom and barley soup; seafood boil; BBQ lamb provencal; smoked salmon nori roll. The downside to this book: no table of metric equivalents to weights and measures. I can see this in a US book, but this is a CANADIAN book being marketed also to the US. The upside to this book: she indexes all the basic tips and ingredients separately. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 9. THE SIMPLE & SAVVY WINE GUIDE; buying, pairing & sharing for all (William Morrow, 2006, 339 pages, ISBN 0-06-082833-1, $19.50 paper covers) is by Leslie Sbrocco, who earlier had also written “Wine for Women”. She is the regular wine columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle, as well as a television host. The arrangement of the book is the selling point: wines and sorted by mood (wedding, picnic, girls’ night in, bathtub wines), by food (pizza, meat, take out, party, cheese, desserts), by season, for a reason (gifts, organic wines, quirky wines), and sorted by their insider status (cult wines, value wines, restaurant wines, overlooked wines such as Riesling, rose, and sherry). Wines are specified by winery and varietal/label, but not with vintages. For each, there is a tasting note, price range, and website for more data. She also has a series of cheat sheets and tips. A core part of the book is the several indexes to labels by wine styles, by wine producer and region, by type of wine – all re-sorted within by price range (under $15, $15 – 30, over $30. Although this is a US book, many of the wines are available in Canada. More details are at www.lesliesbrocco.com. Audience and level of use: it does seem pitched to women (who buy more real wine than men do), but both genders can use it. Some interesting or unusual facts: Canada gets a mention through four wineries – Inniskillin Icewine, Pillitteri Icewine, Mission Hill Oculus, and Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc and the latter’s Cabernet Shiraz. The downside to this book: icewine is supposed to be one word, not two. Inniskillin was misspelled once. The upside to this book: excellent idea and arrangement. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 10. ARABESQUE; a taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon (Alfred A. Knopf, 2006, 342 pages, ISBN 0-307-26498-X, $47 hard covers) is by the well-known Mediterranean food specialist Claudia Roden, who has authored scores of books on her way to winning just about every food book award that there is. On page 4, she says “The aim of this book is to offer new, recently discovered recipes, and variations to those already known, with some of the more famous classics that I have featured in previous books”. Hmmm, something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue (actually, the cover is turquoise). This book was originally published in the UK in 2005. Here are 150 recipes plus some history and culture for the three countries (50 recipes apiece, plus variations and substitutions). Morocco has the refined food of North Africa (couscous, layered pies, tagines, sweet and savoury mixtures), the hearty food of Turkey (kebabs, phyllo pies, eggplant dishes, sweet puddings), and the mezze of Lebanon (veggies, dried legumes, kibbeh, meatballs, lamb shanks). Her arrangement is by country, and then by course within for menu planning. While lamb is the preferred meat here, beef and veal can be substituted in North America. Audience and level of use: meant for the home cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes: spinach and beans with caramelized onions; apricots stuffed with cream; date rolls in honey syrup; shrimp in spicy tomato sauce; chicken and onion pie; sugared orange slices. The downside to this book: no metric table of equivalents for the US volume measurements used for the US marketing of this book. The upside to this book: a first class effort, especially using indigenous names of the recipes (they are also indexed). Quality/Price Rating: 91. 11. WILLIAMS-SONOMA COCKTAIL PARTIES (Free Press, 2006; distr. Simon & Schuster, 144 pages, ISBN 0-7432-7854-2, $32 hard covers) is a packaged book, with recipes by Georgeanne Brennan (food writer and winner of a Bear and a Child award), food photography by David Matheson, and food styling by Ben Masters. The blurb says “inspired recipes and party ideas for entertaining with friends”. This is the fifth such book in their Entertaining series – the others cover Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easy, and Outdoor Entertaining. There are more than thirty preps here for apps, and thirty recipes for drinks. So each drink has its app, and each app its own drink. The book, through step-by-step work plans with hour-by-hour times, shows how to make the event work for any space, budget, and occasion (whether indoor or outdoor, elegant or improvised). It generally succeeds, failing sometimes in the recipes. All the tips are geared to making the cocktails correctly, serving the reliable apps quickly, and doing it all with style and panache. There are seven complete cocktail parties for throughout the year. Audience and level of use: party planners. Some interesting or unusual facts: cocktails are more popular than ever. The downside to this book: the pancetta with mozzarella recipe will produce cheesy goo if you wanted the pancetta to be crisp; the Lillet cocktails call for six ounces of Lillet plus two ounces of Cointreau in each tumbler – this is way too much for a cocktail. The asparagus with parmesan dipping sauce is too messy and inelegant for a cocktail party. The upside to this book: non-alcoholic drinks are also included. There is a great looking index for easy retrieval. Quality/Price Rating: 81. 12. JUDGMENT OF PARIS; California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris tasting that revolutionized wine (Scribner, 2006, 331 pages, ISBN 0=7432-9732-6, $19.99 paper covers) is by George Taber, who was the only reporter present at the 1976 shootout that placed California wines to the forefront of the world’s wine buffs. This blind tasting by a panel of top French wine experts shocked the industry by choosing then- unknown California wines over France’s best. Of course, we all know why: the California wines were more ready than the Bordeaux (lower acid levels, more fruit) – they “showed” better. You can read all about here in this paperback reissue of a 2005 book which has been enhanced by a four-page “Scribner reading/tasting group guide”. This tells you how to stage your own tasting, as well as reporting on the May 24, 2006 thirtieth anniversary tastings (one in London, the other in Napa). In 2006, the California wines took the top five positions. For book clubs, there are seven highly relevant questions for discussion, such as “Discuss some of the serious challenges now facing French winemakers”. Audience and level of use: serious wine tasters. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 13. THE LATIN AMERICAN KITCHEN (Kyle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 240 pages, ISBN 1-904920-46-2, $24.95 paper covers) is by Elisabeth Luard, an award winning food writer and television host who has specialized in Latin American food. This book is a paperback reprint of her 2002 effort. It covers the entire continent. It is arranged by ingredient (about 100 of them) so it can also serve as an encyclopedia, and of course all of the 200 recipes are accessible through the index. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 14. 1000 BEST WINE SECRETS (Sourcebooks, Inc., 2006 [www.sourcebooks.com], 381 pages, ISBN 1-4022-0808-1, $16.95 paper covers) is by Carolyn Hammond, a colleague of mine in the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. She has also written for a number of newspapers and wine magazines (Decanter, Wine & Spirit International). It is all basic information, but it has been rearranged in categories for ease of access – there is even an index! 1000 tips are sorted into selecting, tasting, serving, storing, gifting, educating, wine myths, and best buys from around the world. Each tip is numbered. There is a list of nationally-distributed wines under $20, plus a resources section. Audience and level of use: those wine readers who prefer to dip into and out of an engaging book. Some interesting or unusual facts: in 2004, $16 million worth of Canadian wine was exported, up from just $6 million five years before. The downside to this book: given what the book is, the worst thing about it that I can say is the paper is too heavy and the binding too restrictive. I find it awfully hard to use as a bathroom book or as a bedtime read. The upside to this book: there is actually an index, which is rare in handbooks. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 15. RESTAURANT COOKBOOKS – are the hottest trend in cookbooks. Actually, they’ve been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be special notes or preps, or items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but often there is not. I’ll try to point this out. The usual schtick is “favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks”. There is also PR copy on “demystifying ethnic ingredients”. I keep hearing that some of these recipes don’t seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms. Here’s a rundown on the latest crop of books – a) BITE SIZE (William Morrow, 2006, 170 pages, ISBN 0-06-088722-3, $25.95 hard covers) comes from Francois Payard. He runs a catering company (Tastings, opened in 2002) and a restaurant (Payard Patisserie & Bistro, opened in 1997), both in New York city. His first book was “Simply Sensational Desserts”, from his NYC resto. This one is from his catering company, and emphasizes sophisticated canapés and light bites. Many would be worthy of any tapas-like gathering, or even food service with a series of small plates. Very good close-up photography. Endorsed by Daniel Boulud and two others. About 75 recipes (paella cakes with chorizo; madeleines with sweet corn, caviar and crème fraiche; foie gras mousse with tomato-strawberry jam; leek and oyster tartlets) . Quality/Price Rating: 87. b) THE RED CAT COOKBOOK (Clarkson Potter, 2006, 256 pages, ISBN 1-4000- 8281-1, $47 hard covers) is by Jimmy Bradley and Andrew Friedman. Bradley owns The Red Cat resto in NYC (as well as The Harrison and The Mermaid Inn); he also chefs at The Red Cat. Friedman has co-authored over a dozen cookbooks as well as collating the anthology “Don’t Try This At Home”. Here are recipes from what has been described as New York City’s favourite neighbourhood restaurant (Chelsea District version). The theme is Italian-American with seaside New England accent points. Endorsed by respected food editors John Willoughby, Colman Andrews, Sara Moulton, and four others. 125 preps (vanilla panna cotta with tangerine sauce and pomegranate seeds; beets with walnuts and blue cheese; quick sauté of zucchini with toasted almonds and pecorino; curried lamb chops with orzo, spinach, lemon and egg). Quality/Price Rating: 85. c) FIAMMA (John Wiley, 2006, 272 pages, ISBN 0-7645-9931-3, $44.99 hard covers) is by executive chef Michael White. His company owns at least three Italian hot spots: Fiamma Osteria (opened in 2000) and Vento in NYC, and Fiamma Trattoria at the MGM Grand Las Vegas. Esquire named him Chef of the Year in 2002; Fiamma in NYC is regularly given three stars by all the newspapers (Michelin gave it one star in 2005). Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author, is the focusing food writer. Stylish, contemporary Italian food. But does the world need another Italian food book? You’ll have to check it out. There is a large dolci section from his pastry chef Elizabeth Katz. Nice larger print and nifty photography close-ups. Recipes have both English and Italian names, but only the English are indexed. Endorsed by the ubiquitous Mario Batali and Rachel Ray. 110 recipes (chestnut honey glazed peaches; South Tyrolean venison stew; oxtail tortellini; creamy artichoke and sunchoke soup; agnolotti filled with ricotta and spinach). Quality/Price Rating: 85. d) THE NEW GREEK CUISINE (Broadway Books, 2006, 303 pages, ISBN 0-7679- 1875-4, $39.95 hard covers) is by Jim Botsacos, chef at highly rated Molyvos (opened in 1997) in NYC. He has also appeared on television. Judith Choate, who has written or co-authored about two dozen cookbooks, is the focusing food writer. The book’s emphasis is on healthy living through fish, whole grains, and olive oil. There is a good selection of mezes, which can be expanded to mains. Other useful material includes discourses on Greek wines, olives and cheeses. I am not quite sure how “new” it all is, but it is certainly upscale. Endorsed by Paula Wolfert and three others. 150 recipes (rabbit stifado; lamb casserole; bulgur wheat and couscous pilaf; fluke marinato with cucumbers, capers, and Lesvos basil; cabbage dolmades). Quality/Price Rating: 88. e) ONE SPICE, TWO SPICE (William Morrow, 2006, 304 pages, ISBN 0-06- 073501-5, $44.95 hard covers) is by Floyd Cardoz, co-owner and chef at Tabla (opened in 1997) in NYC. The focusing food writer is Jane Daniels Lear, a special features editor at Gourmet magazine. Odd then that the only endorsement here comes from Ruth Reichl, who is editor-in-chief at Gourmet, and Lear’s boss. Hmmmm...Cardoz tries to hang his hat on Indian riffs about American food (the book’s subtitle is actually “Indian spices, American food”). Hence, there is a New England corn and potato chowder with cloves and coriander, and a soft-shell crab affair with cinnamon, chiles and ginger. Kudos to Cardoz for trying this out – one more fusion cuisine in the global order. He also has an extensive glossary. 140 recipes (coconut curried lobster with eggplant and cabbage; black sea bass with mustard curry; green mango marinated fluke with pickled daikon and beets; lamb meatballs stuffed with fresh figs; strip loin beef crusted with mustard and coriander). Quality/Price Rating: 89. f) CUCINA OF LE MARCHE (Ecco, 2006, 241 pages, ISBN 0-06-074162-7, $39.95 hard covers) is by Fabio Trabocchi, chef de cuisine at the Washington, DC, Ritz Carlton’s Maestro restaurant (opened in 2000). He has won several Best Chef awards in the past few years; this is his first cookbook. Fabio comes from Le Marche, and it has strongly affected his cooking. Most of the dishes at his restaurant’s menu originate from that area of Italy – it has also been anointed by the New York Times as the hottest area, the new Tuscany as it were. Peter Kaminsky, a cook book author and chef collaborator on many other books, is the focusing food writer here. Le Marche is between Tuscany and Umbria, from the Adriatic to the Apennines. The cuisine has been heavily influenced by Greek and North African traditions. Seven endorsements include one from Batali and another from Boulud. There are only two short pages on wine notes, made even shorter by the larger type. Both the Italian and English titles to the recipes are indexed. About 100 recipes (fried stuffed olives ascolana-style; braised spare ribs with polenta; fava bean salad with dill, anchovies and capers; bollito misto Marche-style; potato gnocchi with duck ragu; sgombri arrosto). Quality/Price Rating: 89. g) MRS. ROWE’S RESTAURANT COOKBOOK (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 214 pages, ISBN 1-58008-734-5, $31.95 hard covers) is by Mollie Cox Bryan and the Mrs. Rowe Family Restaurant. This is a fifty-year old American roadside cafe in Staunton, Virginia, in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley. Jane and Michael Stern give a splendid Foreword, designating the restaurant and the recipes as the epitome of Appalachian country-style food. Rowe was a single mother when she started the restaurant in 1947 at the age of 35. She passed on in 2003. There are more than 50 archival and full colour food and location photos. On Mother’s Day in 2003, the place sold more than 4,000 meals (about a half million meals are sold every year). It has been written up in Gourmet and Travel & Leisure magazines. 175 recipes, including the most popular entrees baked pork tenderloin, chicken-fried steak, stuffed peppers, fried catfish, spoon bread, coconut cream pie. Quality/Price Rating: 89. h) THE PRAWN COCKTAIL YEARS (Penguin/Michael Joseph, 1997 and 2006, 272 pages, ISBN 0-718-14980-7, $49 hard covers) is by Simon Hopkinson and Lindsey Bareham, both now food writers. Hopkinson was the head chef at London’s Bibendum for eight years. This 2006 book has kept the older text from 1997 as published by Macmillan but has had some new photos and a changed layout. Essentially, the idea was to present a collection of “classic” dishes as found in major hotel restaurants of the time, to preserve them for home cooks and for anyone else who wanted them. Indeed, the very name “prawn cocktail” would stand for regular routine preps of the 1950s through 1980s (although in North America, the term would be “shrimp cocktail”). Re-live, then those dishes of yesteryear: rice pudding, black forest gateau (cake), oxtail soup, cream of tomato soup, steak in red wine, steak au poivre, Spanish omelet, pate maison, chocolate mousse, et al. 110 recipes in all, endorsed by Nigella Lawson. A very British book. Quality/Price Rating: 83. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR OCTOBER 2006 ============================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINE ATLAS OF CANADA (Random House Canada, 2006, 288 pages, ISBN 0-679-31334-6, $60 hard covers) is by Tony Aspler, well-known Canadian wine writer and broadcaster, author of a dozen books on wine and food, and wine educator. Photography is by Steve Elphick, one of the better known Canadian wine photographers. My declaration of conflict of interest: as a colleague of Tony, I was one of the last people to review the texts, and I made comments and pointed out errors. Most were adopted, but I need to say that I was “involved” with the book’s end game. As Aspler says, “Every self-respecting wine region has an atlas that shows not only where the wineries are relative to each other but gives information about the soils, the climate, the technologies, and, above all, the people and the sense of place where the grapes are grown and the wines are made.” There are descriptions for each province and region, arranged from west to east (BC through Newfoundland). All wineries are listed, from boutique to conglomerates. Each winery is described, alphabetically within the appropriate region. Full address and character (size, tastings, restaurant, accommodations, picnic area, public tours, and services) are cited for each, along with year founded, founders names, current winemaker, grape varieties grown, and recommended wines. Maps are intended as guides only, mainly showing placement. There are plenty of sidebars, such as on Quebec’s ice cider, CCOVI at Brock, L’Acadie grape variety, and Stephen Cipes’ pyramid. As an apolitical work, there are no “best” lists. I can nitpick: there seems to be an inconsistency amongst wineries about syrah versus shiraz. Some have adopted “shiraz” as both a grape and a wine name, while others have called their wines (and grapes) “syrah”. Many wineries do not grow the varieties that Tony has recommended – they have grape contracts for such winners as Sauvignon Blanc at Cilento, Semillon at Saturna Island, Pinot blanc at Saltspring Island, and so on. There is neither rhyme nor reason behind the listing of Canadian Wine Festivals, except that it is arranged by province, but with no chronological or alphabetical sequence within. There are some modest typos (e.g., zweigelt is a red grape not a white grape, Silver Peak was founded in 1998 not 1988, Willow Springs no longer makes fruit wines and hasn’t for some time), but certainly not enough to detract from the finished product. Audience and level of use: wine schools, Canadian wine lovers, travelers, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: while immersed within this book, I could not believe all the changes that had occurred over the past 18 months (many managed to get incorporated into the atlas). To keep the atlas uptodate, check out www.wineatlas.ca and www.tonyaspler.com. The downside to this book: it does not have the topographic details of other wine atlases, such as Johnson and Robinson’s book. Also, I wished that there had been more TNs, but space would then be an issue. The upside to this book: there is a great wealth of ancillary data, such as material on Canada’s fruit wineries, future wineries, and a sterling bibliography. Great photography too. Quality/Price Rating: 95. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. JOY OF COOKING (Scribner, 2006, 1132 pages, ISBN 0-7432-4626-8, $36 hard covers) has been around since 1931; it was last revised in 1997. This is being touted as its 75th Anniversary Edition. The main author is now Ethan Becker, grandson of Irma Rombauer and son of Marion Rombauer Becker. He’s an outdoors cook, but learned his basic knife skills from his mother and Cordon Bleu in Paris. You can get more details about him and the history of the book at www.joyofcooking.com. Here is a great basic collection of 4,000 rewritten recipes (some taken from previous editions, making the book more “homey” with casseroles, preserves, ice cream, candy, even chop suey) PLUS 500 brand new recipes (including slow cookers, which are apparently making a comeback). Also, of course, the reference material and nutritional data have been updated – 10 years is a long time in the diet business! This also includes high altitude cooking formulas, which should be useful for people living in the Rockies. Even simple recipes got a second look: Last week, I needed basic information on slow-cooking a boneless pork roast (actually, if I may say so, I’m pretty smart in the kitchen: I was just looking for confirmation). I dug into the 1997 edition and the 2006 edition. Here’s what I found: in 1997, the recipe was “slow-roasted boneless pork loin” (p.688), definitely calling for a loin. It made 6 servings, with a preheated oven at 450 degrees Fahrenheit. It could be served with a buttered cider sauce. You let it stand for 15 minutes. The roast should be slightly pink and very juicy. In 2006, the recipe is now “boneless pork roast” (p.498, a shifting of 200 pages) – Becker considers a roast to automatically be a loin since shoulders are too tough. The “pork roast” (same size as before) now serves 6 to 8, reflecting the modern day cutback on red meat quantities in serving. The preheat temperature is now 500 (why?). There is no longer a recommendation for a sauce, but the new text does state “if desired, dredge in seasoned flour p962”. You let the meat stand only 10 minutes, not 15, and there is no mention of the colour of the meat. Is pinkness in pork still frowned upon? Audience and level of use: all cooks, cooking schools, home chefs. Some interesting or unusual facts: The test kitchen, which ran the book through its paces, devoured 3,000 eggs, 700 pounds of flour, and 485 pounds of red meat. The downside to this book: while there are quite a few tables of metric equivalents, these are neither well-placed nor well-indexed. They needed to be printed on the inside covers for effectiveness. The upside to this book: the index has been reworked, with a new typeface, use of bold face to indicate the important stuff, and even to indicate 24 recipes created by Ethan Becker (these are found under “B”) Quality/Price Rating: 95 (great price, even cheaper on Amazon and Indigo). 3. CRAFT BREWERS OF ONTARIO (WMI Books, 2006, 127 pages, ISBN 0- 9736707-6-2, $19.95 paper covers) is by Bill Perrie, who has written other books about beer and pubs in Ontario. Eighteen small craft brewers covered, in alphabetical order. At the time, they were all members of the Ontario Craft Brewers group. The association now has about 31 members, with about 140 different brews. Each of the 18 is discussed, with a view to philosophy, names and addresses of where they are, plus tasting notes. Colour photos show the brewers and their bottles in action. Ian Bowering contributes a short history of Ontario beer making. Styles range all over the place, from light lagers to heavier stouts and porters, some with flavours (raspberry, coffee, chocolate). Audience and level of use: serious beer lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: most are in southern Ontario, Windsor through to Ottawa. The downside to this book: there have been many more members of the OCB, and they are not here due to time pressures of publication. Also, there is no index of names which might have been useful. The upside to this book: a handy guide for touring. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 4. COOKING WITH HERBS AND SPICES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2006; distr. T. Allen, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84597-232-5, $32.95 hard covers) is by Linda Tubby and Manisha Gambhir Harkins, both UK food writers with long lists of credentials. Actually, the recipes have been published in previous Ryland Peters books, dating back to 2002, 2004 and 2005. Here they have been collated and collected, covering international cuisine and all courses. Covered too are herb vinegars, oils and butters, chutneys, and tisanes. As well, there are basic recipes for spice mixes from around the world (2 American, 2 European, 6 African, and 12 Asian), and a US directory of importers of herbs and spices. US volume measurements are employed. Audience and level of use: basic home chefs Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: vegetarian cashew salad; herb and carrot soup; mint and cilantro salsa; stir-fried peanut shrimp; lamb and apricot tagine; purple basil ravioli. The downside to this book: tiny and faint typeface, especially in the index and the lists of ingredients. The upside to this book: there are metric conversion charts. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 5. THE SOUL OF A NEW CUISINE; a discovery of the foods and flavors of Africa (John Wiley & Sons, 2006, 344 pages, ISBN 0-7645-6911-2, $51.99 hard covers) is by hot chef (and Ethiopian-born) Marcus Samuelsson, co- owner and chef of Aquavit, author of two cookbooks, and TV personality. These 200 recipes have been sourced from all parts of Africa, and are complemented by his stories of travels in the continent. There are also lush and plus travel photos. A portion of the royalties go to UNICEF. The one major key to African cookery is the blending of spices and rubs (sweet to hot), with the judicious use of hot peppers, peppermint, ginger, and sesame seeds. So he has 16 recipes for these and more, plus 25 or so recipes for sauces and dips. He divides African cuisine into North, West, East and South, all of them a logical fit, with plenty of cook’s notes. US volume measurements are used, and all the sources are US. Audience and level of use: armchair travelers and cooks, with some ideas for chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pomegranate rice; lentil stew; grilled tilapia-avocado soup; toasted peanut bread; crab burgers; mustard greens and corn. The downside to this book: there is no table of metric equivalents, and too many non-food pictures. The upside to this book: good topic and layout. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 6. THE LEBANESE COOKBOOK (Kyle Cathie, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-85626-645-1, $38.95 hard covers) is by Hussien Dekmak, born in Beirut and now owner of Le Mignon in London (since 1997). The mezze style of eating is emphasized here. The grazing predominates because all the mezze are supposed to come out at once, taxing a normal kitchen. The Lebanese diet is based on grains, fish, vegetables, olive oil, garlic, fish, lamb and chicken. These classics here are meant for home cooks, and there is much informative data in side bars (herbal teas, olive trees). Metric measurements are employed in the recipes. Audience and level of use: Lebanese food fans, home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: moujadam (lentils and rice with crispy onions); spinach with rice; lentil soup with Swiss chard; olive salad; moutabal (smoky eggplant); chicken shawarma. The downside to this book: there is a British index, so watch out for aubergines and rockets. The upside to this book: there are tables of weights and measures. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 7. BERNARD CLAYTON’S NEW COMPLETE BOOK OF BREADS (Simon & Schuster, 2006, 685 pages, ISBN 0-7432-8709-6, $27.99 paper covers) was first published in 1973. It was extensively revised for a thirtieth anniversary edition in 2003. This current release is a paperback reprint at a bargain price. The variety of recipes is enough to satisfy a daily demand for new bread. I have an in-law who has been making the same white bread in his breadmaker for the past 9 years, every day, day in and day out: time for a change John!! I’ll send him this book for Christmas. The downside to this book: a paperback reissue is nice, but the binding may just crack with use. I always photocopy my recipes first. The upside to this book: There is a troubleshooting chapter on “What Went Wrong and How to Make It Right”. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 8. THE COMPLETE BOOK OF SOUPS AND STEWS, updated (Simon & Schuster, 2006, 394 pages, ISBN 0-7432-7715-5, $38.99 hard covers) is by Bernard Clayton, the authoritative bread guy. It was first published in 1984, and here it has been extensively revised, 22 years later. He has an anecdotal approach to his 250 recipes. His cook’s notes are embedded within the prep, with a separate breakout for techniques and timings. The updating is mainly new additions (mostly ethnic) and healthy choices. The chapters are arranged by major ingredient. Beef and lamb are mainly stews, while chicken and veggies are mainly soups. There are categories such as chowders, chili, cheese soups, fruit and seafood. He concludes with a section on sauces, breads, garnishes, and spicings. He also has material on homemade (preferred) versus store-bought stock. There are some acceptable mass-produced stocks, but they are only available wholesale. Audience and level of use: beginner cooks, institutions. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: brunswick stew, seafood gumbo, goulash, garbure, pot au feu, jambalaya, curried pippin soup. The downside to this book: nothing, really. The upside to this book: while he uses US volume measurements, there are tables of both British and metric equivalents. Also, there is a bibliography of some good classic cookbooks. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 9. THE FOOD OF FRANCE; a regional celebration (Kyle Books, 2006, distr. Raincoast, 208 pages, ISBN 1-904920-43-8, $45.50 hard covers) is by author Sarah Woodward, a UK food writer specializing in French food. This is one of a country series; the first was on Spain and Portugal. These are all the classics: she says that local standards and traditions have been followed in every case. Everything is regional, such as onion soup from Burgundy and Alsatian plum tart (175 recipes from 14 regions). Cook’s notes and Imperial measurements complete the picture. Audience and level of use: food travelers, French food lovers, intermediate cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: iles flottantes; mango rougail; poireaux vinaigrette; rognons de veau a la moutarde; civet de lievre; caille aux raisins. The downside to this book: while the French West Indies are here, there is no mention of St. Pierre and Miquelon. Also, there is no metric table of equivalents. The upside to this book: Many of the photos are location food shots, local markets and producers. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. BORDEAUX: MEDOC AND GRAVES (Mitchell Beazley, 2006, 528 pages, ISBN 1-84533-004-8, $45.95 hard covers) is by Stephen Brook, a wine writer and author of many other books in this series, “Classic Wine Library” (see his books on Germany, Sauterne, California). The library format is quite well-known by now: a basic layout of serviceable sketch-maps, no pictures, and lots of capsule histories and tasting notes for each property described. Here is insider information on the Left Bank of Medoc and Graves only (the publisher’s catalogue also promised Sauterne and photographs, but neither are here). Still to come, presumably by Brook, is a book on the Right Bank of Pomerol and St.Emilion, and the satellites. The introductory material includes chapters on the land (terroir), grapes, and wine styles. The main arrangement is by region, starting with the Medoc level, moving to the Haut Medoc (where the best values can be found), Moulis, Listrac, Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and then Pessac-Leognan. The directory data includes names and numbers, websites, owners, size, production and grape varieties. Then, the narrative style embraces a mini-history with tasting notes. There is an appendix with comments on the various vintages, 1961-2005, a glossary, and a bibliography. Audience and level of use: Bordeaux lovers, wine book collectors, professionals, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “One rule of thumb for restraining the youthful vigour of young vines is to prune to two bunches less than the age of the vines: thus, retain three bunches for a five-year vine, five bunches for a seven-year vine.” (p.49) The downside to this book: maps are still basic, and there are no photos as promised. The upside to this book: in the index, all the Chateaux are under “C” and the Domaines are under “D”. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 11. THE LEE BROS. SOUTHERN COOKBOOK; stories and recipes for southerners and would-be southerners (W.W. Norton, 2006; distr. Penguin, 591 pages, ISBN 0-393-05781-X, $43.50 hard covers) is by Matt and Ted Lee, co-proprietors of The Lee Bros. Boiled Peanuts Catalogue, a mail order source for Southern pantry staples. They write about food, wine and travel for print and radio outlets. As well, of course, they sell “Southern Food”, such as the ubiquitous boiled peanuts (you can read all about their history in this book). This practical, all-in-one guide to Southern US cooking replaces, they say, a Southern grandmother. The guide has been endorsed by half of the Iron Chef America team (Batali and Flay). In the preps, the Lee Brothers do propose flexible ingredient solutions and substitutions. There are even wine and beer matchings. Much of the book comes from their New York Times regular articles. Of the 250 recipes, there are 16 beverage preps, some others on pickles and preserves, Creole dishes, and greens- squash-okra-corn-cabbage preps, in addition to meats and desserts. AND 12. THE ABOUT.COM GUIDE TO SOUTHERN COOKING (Adams Media, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 277 pages, ISBN 1-59869-096-5, $22.95 paper covers) is by Diana Rattray, a Mississippi home cook from a foodie family. She is the moderator of the About.Com cooking forum which deals with Southern Cooking. There are about 500 guides online, and this is apparently one of the first in the series to take on the quest for beginners (Dummies, Idiot’s, Everything, etc.). She has 25 sweets and savouries, and then goes on to the primer of grits, gravy, sweet potato pie, soul food, Cajun food. Each chapter has links to the about.com website plus other sites (and some more are given in the appendix). She has 10 beverages, 16 apps and breads, 14 breakfast treats, plus the usual mains. Audience and level of use: cooks who appreciate Southern US cuisine. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for Rattray, you’ll get crab-stuffed mushrooms, dried beef and cheese dip, skillet cornbread, beignets, pain perdu, and beef with barbecued bean stew. For Lee, you’ll get hopping john, fried chicken, cold rice salad with country ham and peas, BBQ pork tenderloin, brown oyster stew, and Scuppernong grape and hot pepper roasted duck. The downside to this book: both books have US volume measurements, but no tables of metric equivalents. Neither book has a recipe for chess pie. Rattray’s book has too many pix of the same head shot. The upside to this book: Rattray has listings for holiday meals (not menus but recipes with page references). Lee’s coloured photos have page references on them. Lee also has a goodly number of shortcuts indicated. Quality/Price Rating: just about even, since they are priced similarly on a per prep basis. 87. 13. WINERIES & WINE COUNTRY OF NOVA SCOTIA (Nimbus Publishing, 2006, 108 pages, ISBN 1-55109-573-4, $24.95 paper covers) is by Sean P. Wood, the weekly wine columnist for the Halifax Chronicle Herald. He is also a wine judge and freelance magazine writer. Wood begins with a commentary on the vinous history and climate of Nova Scotia. Eight wineries are described, with the full complement of pictures, photos, tasting notes for each, as well as the essential travel data of hours, names, addresses, etc. He sketches the personalities and styles of winemaking, as well as the local amenities of nearby places for food and lodgings. There are even some recipes and a vintage chart. The wineries with the highest profile and volume are Blomidon Estate (owned by Creekside winery in Ontario; they share the same winemaking team), Domaine de Grand Pre, and Jost. Still, the book had to be stretched out to 100 pages or so by describing not only a winery in PEI but also a distillery in Nova Scotia (Glenora) plus a whole section on two microbreweries and many brewpubs. While this is not unwelcome, the book’s main concern is on wines, and the “wine country”, and I would have liked more space dedicated to the wineries and their hospitality in the area (more details on lodgings and restaurants, more touristy data). Also, the brewery/distillery material was a surprise since none of the PR materials nor the dust jacket even mentioned these. I’m led to believe that they were added at the last minute. Audience and level of use: travelers, those who enjoy or want to know more about Nova Scotia wines. Some interesting or unusual facts: he also describes Rossignol Estate winery from PEI, which is principally a fruit winery. The downside to this book: no index. The upside to this book: all of the tasting notes are long and thorough, a rare treat in books such as this one. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14. WINE FOR DUMMIES. 4th edition (Wiley Publishing, 2006, 410 pages, ISBN 0-470-04579-5, $25.99 paper covers) is by Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan, wine educators in New York City. The first edition was published over a decade ago, and this book gets revised every five years (it has already sold 2/3 of a million copies). It has been widely endorsed by the industry, and has served as a popular textbook for many wine courses. It even won a Georges Duboeuf Wine Book of the Year award. This edition presents a general updating, with mention and notes about new appellations and new rules, plus of course, new wines that have come onto the market. There is more material on newer emerging regions such as Argentina, Greece and Chile, but Canada still gets only two pages. Vintage charts have been updated. The thorough text contains basic information on storing, tasting and serving wine, along with material on grape varietals and how to buy wine (in the store, in the restaurant). But the bulk of the book is a region-by-region account of winegrowing areas. An index and glossary completes the package. The downside to the book: a bit too cute in places. The upside to this book: informative and useful. Quality-to-Price rating: 92. 15. THREE GUYS FROM MIAMI CELEBRATE CUBAN (Gibbs Smith, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 247 pages, ISBN 1-4236-0063-0, $37.95 hard covers) is the second such book from the team of Glenn Lindgren, Raul Musibay, and Jorge Castillo. Glenn is from Minneapolis; the other two are from Cuba. Together they write and broadcast on all things Cuban. Only Raul is full-time in Miami. And 16. EATING CUBAN; 120 authentic recipes from the streets of Havana to American shores (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda, 192 pages, ISBN 1-58479-541-7, $45 hard covers) is by multiple-award winning cookbook writer Beverly Cox (James Beard, IACP). Each book will appeal to slightly different audiences, but Cox has the smarter recipes and setup. Three Guys have 100 recipes around an entertaining theme, with more classic dishes simplified into a North American style. Here are ideas for family dishes and parties (Christmas Eve and Day, New Year Eve and Day, Birthdays, Thanksgiving, Valentine Day). There are even Cuban-style parties such as a velorio (wake) and Three Kings Day, with text on the Cuban party style. There is lots of hand holding here with cook’s notes, food glossary, and US mail order sources. Check out www.icuban.com for more. Cox has 120 mostly Cuban preps, but some are Floridian from local restos and even two from New Jersey. She also includes a list of restaurants in Cuba and the United States, perhaps in anticipation of open borders. She begins with history and current trends of Cuban cooking, followed by classic Creole dishes and then street food (sandwiches, empanadas, snacks, beverages) and Nuevo Latino. While the measurements are US by volume, the sources list includes one in Cuba and one on Baldwin Street in Toronto. The book concludes with a glossary and a bibliography (Three Guys are listed!). Audience and level of use: for those who entertain, home chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from Three Guys, you could try yuca with grapefruit and orange sauce, fish and pineapple salad, Cuban red beans and rice, shrimp with cheese. From Cox, try duck yemaya, pork with yellow rice and okra, mango and ginger sorbet, sweet corn fritters, creamy pumpkin soup, fried yuca sticks. The downside to this book: neither book has a table of metric equivalents. The fractions in the list of ingredients of the Cox books are really hard to read (too tiny). The Three Guys’ index needs work (there is no entry for Cuban Devilled Eggs under C or D). The upside to this book: could these be the vanguard of Cuban books, once the borders open? Cox has good photography. Three Guys has lots of space and a good type font. Quality/Price Rating: Three Guys gets 86, Cox gets 87. 17. MR. BOSTON PLATINUM EDITION; 1500 recipes, tools, and techniques for the master mixologist (Wiley, 2006, 290 pages, ISBN 0-471-97302-5, $16.99 hard cover with concealed wire) has been edited by Anthony Giglio, with contributions from 73 named “cocktail experts”. Mr. Boston has been published since 1935; this is its seventieth anniversary. Previously, it had sold about 11 million copies. Not bad for an American classic. Mr. Boston claims 100 contemporary and new recipes, and throughout the book there are between 4 and 9 cocktails to a page (and it clearly identifies the glass to be used). All preps are arranged by alcohol product, and presents basic bar data. There are trade tips from many of the contributors, as well as much more info on garnishes and tools. Audience and level of use: bartenders, cocktail specialists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The cocktail has evolved into an art form. It, and the cocktail party, has become hot. The downside to this book: Mr. Boston has an extremely short wine cocktail section and a short non-alcoholic section. The upside to this book: the spiral binding makes the book more flexible, although it is easier to rip out the pages. Quality/Price Rating: 90 18. TAMASIN’S KITCHEN CLASSICS (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2006; distr. by MacArthur, 208 pages, ISBN 0-297-84428-8, $39.95 hard covers) is by Tamasin Day-Lewis, a UK food writer for many newspapers and magazines. As well, she has written eight books, mostly on food. Here she covers her outright faves, which are mainly twists on classic dishes from around the world. The 100 recipes are pretty basic stuff, such as UK classic bread and butter pudding jazzed up with gingerbread and butter, sliced pears, stem ginger, and vanilla custard. But then it is not bread pudding anymore. Both Imperial and metric measurements are in the text, along with cook’s notes. Audience and level of use: beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tartare of tuna with chicory; coquilles st. jacques; creole-style daube of beef; parsley and horseradish dumplings; marmalade layer cake; deep blueberry tart. The downside to this book: there are too many non-food photos. The upside to this book: there is a ribbon bookmark. Most of the photos are really close up, sort of larger than life. Quality/Price Rating: 84 19. THE LESLEY STOWE FIND FOODS COOKBOOK (HarperCollins Canada, 2006, 209 pages, ISBN 0-00-639584-8, $29.95 paper covers) is by the owner of a Vancouver self-named food store. Previously, this Parisian-trained chef had her own catering company. She is credited with the “Death by Chocolate” confection in 1985 – unfortunately she did not copyright the name. The full story and the recipe are on page 168 (and more details at www.lesleystowe.com). This collection of preps contains some of her favourite recipes for west coast catering and entertaining. As the PR says, “casually elegant yet easy recipes”. If only real life was that way...There are sidebars and cook’s notes for a wide range (starters to desserts) plus a chapter on holiday gifts from your kitchen (with recipes). Her emphasis is on a well-stocked pantry: she has lists for a dry pantry, spices, refrigerator staples, and freezer staples. Audience and level of use: home cooks, entertainers, caterers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: olive and fig tapenade; smoked salmon corn cakes; roasted pumpkin soup with cumin cream; white chocolate and pecan dream; roasted eggplant bread pudding with charred tomato vinaigrette; wild rice with lentils and pearl barley and toasted pine nuts. The downside to this book: her rule “don’t overcook anything – ever!” could apply to a caterer, but home cooks have to eat their mistakes. The upside to this book: the preps use both Imperial and metric measurements. Colour photos have page references. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 20. A TASTE FOR WINE (DK Books, 2006, 352 pages, ISBN 0-7566-2350-2, $27 paper covers) is by Master Sommelier Vincent Gasnier (although the title page calls it “How to Choose Wine”, not “A Taste for Wine”). This is his second major book, covering the basics in the first 60 and the last 40 pages. In discussing wine styles (he has 9 categories, just like everybody else) he concentrates on what works best for you, the reader. There are 20 tastings, which form the heart of the book. His styles include three levels for whites, three for reds, rose, sparkling and dessert. There is one on white oak-aging, one on fruit, one on varietal character. There is another on acidity (comparing a Muscadet with a dry Muscat and a Semillon) and one on texture (an Oz Semillon, a Marsanne, a South African Chardonnay, and a Savennieres). Throughout the book, there are plenty of tasting notes. He concludes with a list of grape varieties and a glossary. Audience and level of use: wine schools, libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Orvieto: laced with fruits, flowers, and roasted almonds. It’s fresh and elegant like a Chablis, but with a juicier flavor and a richer texture”. But I’ve never had an Orvieto like this through the LCBO... The downside to this book: too many pictures of Gasnier The upside to this book: affordable and colourful, like all DK books. The book should prove useful for constructing tasting notes. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 21. KEYS TO THE CELLAR; strategies and secrets of wine collecting (Wiley Publishing, 2006, 258 pages, ISBN 0-471-47359-6, $38.99 hard covers) is by Peter D. Meltzer, a wine critic for the past two decades and now wine auction correspondent for the Wine Spectator. He is an expert on wine collecting. This is one of the rare books that actually contribute new data to our knowledge of wine: it tells you how to create a wine cellar (how to start, how to stock, how to collect the best wines at the best prices). He tells us that there are four types of collectors: the one who wants a balanced cellar, with wines from different regions, different prices, different flavours, for different occasions; the one who needs instant gratification and collects wines only at peak maturity for drinking now or soon; the one who collects a tasting cellar for comparing wines horizontally and vertically through regions and producers; and the investment cellar (which Michael Broadbent hates) for the wine speculator. Meltzer gives us lots of information on wine auctions, wine websites and retail stores, most of which is useful if we lived in the US. Ah well. He does give us a peak into what’s in the cellars of prominent collectors such as himself and Lloyd Flatt, who went through a divorce in 1990 and had to re-cellar and re-position everything yet again. For a cellar to function minimally, it must have 250 bottles for a year of consumption, with constant rollover. Meltzer goes into the matter of buying futures, using storage systems, and constructing physical cellars. Data at the back of the book covers the top auction houses (all US plus Christie’s and Sotheby’s in London), auction records for top wines, Wine Spectator auction indexes, a glossary of tasting terms and auction jargon, and a bibliography. Audience and level of use: wine collectors, both old and new. Some interesting or unusual facts: Six magnums of DRC Romanee Conti 1985 were auctioned for $170,375 at Christies in NYC this year. The downside to this book: too US based for Canadians. Wine does not cross borders easily, but some of us can always get storage in a border town, and slip across... The upside to this book: there is some material on collectible spirits, and there are recommended wine blogs for keeping up with the wine world. Quality/Price Rating: 94. 22. ENJOYING WINE; a complete guide to understanding, choosing, and drinking wine (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2006; distr. T. Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 1-84597-238-4, $25.95 hard covers) is by Chris Losh, a UK wine magazine editor, wine magazine writer, and wine book author. It is a basic work, with the usual material on terroir, the development of juice into wine, and how to read labels, how to store, how to serve. He takes the usual regional approach, showing the differences, and emphasizing the grape varieties. He has material on matching wines to both the occasion and to food. There are also 20 recipes incorporating wine into classic dishes (these come from the Ryland stable of five named authors). Both the recipes and some of the wine material have been previously published. Audience and level of use: beginner level. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef braised in red wine; hunter’s chicken; green herb risotto; bass in vinaigrette with capers and parsley. The downside to this book: the pork loin roast uses only one-third of a cup of wine (why even bother?). For the most part the photos are merely generic wine shots. The upside to this book: there is a metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 23. WORKING THE PLATE; the art of food presentation (Wiley Publishing, 2006, 200 pages, ISBN 0-471-47939-X, $51.99 hard covers) is by Christopher Styler (great name in this context) with photography by David Lazarus. Styler is currently a culinary producer for several TV cooking shows. Seven distinctive plating styles are identified, and each is given three recipes. Ten guest chefs (half are from NYC) contribute advice. Marcus Samuelson from New York espouses the Minimalist school in an engaging essay. Others fall into Architect, Artist, Contemporary European Style, Asian Influences, Naturalist, and Dramatic Flair. There is a separate chapter on desserts. Each style comes with detailed instructions and colour how-to photos, plus, of course, the finished plate photo. There is a section on “painting the plate” with sauces and techniques for finishing. US volume measurements. Audience and level of use: cooking schools, professional and home chefs. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: minimalist (pan-seared red snapper fillet with parsley pesto and radish salad); architect (fennel, arugula, and frisee salad with toasted hazelnut dressing – or, try a stacked Cobb salad); artist (parmesan crusted lamb chops with swirled root puree and pea sauce); asian influence (seared tuna with wasabi cream); dramatic (seviche duo and guacamole sundae) The downside to this book: no metric tables of equivalence. The upside to this book: excellent gastroporn in the step-by-step photos. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 24. HAPPY IN THE KITCHEN (Artisan, 2006; distr. T. Allen, 331 pages, ISBN 1-57965-299-9, $45 hard covers) is by Michel Richard, owner of the LA and Washington DC Citronelle and Central restaurants. He originally came to North America in 1974 to open a US branch of Lenotre. Here he continues to practice his whimsy; he specializes in crispness (he calls himself Captain Crunch). His potato gratin is all crust. Other changes he has made includes a raspberry and almond salami, and a pureed squid schnitzel. Here there are 150 recipes, many with step-by-step illustrative photos to show knife skills. His equipment also includes lots of plastic wrap, glue guns, and other basic household tools. US volume measurements and US sources of supply diminish its usefulness in Canada. Audience and level of use: inspired home chefs, professionals, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: low carb-o-nara (made with onions and not pasta); potato risotto; chocolate mousse brulee; orange cheesecake flan; crab poppers; lobster begula pasta; burgers (lamb, lobster, tuna). The downside to this book: no table of metric equivalents. The upside to this book: it is of the now, the cutting edge, the po-mo Ferran Adria. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 25. MARY BERRY’S CHRISTMAS COLLECTION (Headline Books, 2006, distr. MacArthur, 192 pages, $39.95 hard covers) is one of the few Christmas books this season. Wouldn’t you know it, the book comes from Britain! Merry Berry is everywhere in the UK (television, magazines, newspapers, books). Informally, she is known as the Queen of Aga: she specializes in Aga cookery, with several such books to her credit. Some of the recipes in this book have previously appeared in “Mary Berry’s New Aga Cookbook”, “Cook Now, Eat Later”, and “Real Food – Fast”. The 100 recipes lead us all into the Christmas spirit. She has a lunch menu, a shopping list, the countdown (or run up) to Christmas, as well as a general promotion of stress-free living for this time of year. There is a minute by minute breakdown of what to do on Christmas Day. All measurements are given in both Imperial and metric. Puddings and desserts (and buffets) occupy a fair bit of space here, but then that is how it should be. It is also a decent winter cookbook. Audience and level of use: Christmas lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: various roasts, of course; brandy butter, rum sauce, Christmas tarte amandine; orange panna cotta; sausages wrapped in bacon. The downside to this book: not politically correct in these days. The upside to this book: lots of good food in that British tradition. Quality/Price Rating: 85. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS AND AUDIOBOOKS IN REVIEW FOR SEPTEMBER 2006 =============================================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE!! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE OXFORD COMPANION TO WINE. Third Edition (Oxford University Press, 2006, 815 pages, ISBN 0-19-860990-6, $75 hardbound) has been edited and prepared by Jancis Robinson, MW, with Julia Harding, MW, as Assistant Editor. It was first published in 1994, with a second edition in 1999. It also came out in a “Concise” paperback version, and there was also a North American Companion. The first edition won many book awards, and was proclaimed by one major newspaper as “the greatest wine book ever”. First, here are the numbers. There are 4000 entries here (the 1994 edition had 3000), covering the regions, the grape varieties, the major owners and companies, connoisseurs, growers, viticulture, history, consumption, and production. These were written by 167 contributors (73 new to this edition), although most of the unsigned entries were written by Robinson or Harding. Forty per cent of the older entries (1600 articles) have been radically revised (e.g., yeast, barrel alternatives, climate change); others have been updated (e.g., the wine regions, production figures). There are 400 brand new entries, on the globalization of wines, politics, economics, and “precision viticulture” – there is a list of these, just in case you have read the previous editions and wish merely to read the totally brand new stuff. Unfortunately, to make room, Oxford has dropped all previous entries on brandy and other forms of distilled grape varieties. Not to carp, but I think that one page could have been set aside to handle all of these other products of the grape, however briefly. Oxford did abbreviate the entries on wine antiquities, so they could have done the same thing with distilled grape products. I suppose “verjus” would be the next to go; it was retained from previous editions. The appendices contain useful lists, such as controlled appellations and permitted grape varieties around the world, and statistics on wine production, vineyard areas, and consumption by country. Regional and demographic data might have been useful, such as pointing out that Quebec skews the French wine market in Canada or that 34 to 49 year olds on the American west coast drive the pinot noir market…stuff like that. The maps are boring line sketch maps, which merely allow one to find Burgundy within France. Of course, the point of this Companion is not to be an atlas, but still…At the back, there is a complete list of entries by subject. There are, of course, problems: all minor, nothing major. But they are cumulative, and based on a mere half hour of serendipitous flipping and checking out cross-references (don’t get me started on that topic!), I found the following: some typos (e.g., “my” for “may” on p14); no linkage between the entries “micro-oxygenation” and “Rolland, Michel”; the entry on “Edelzwicker” (2.5 lines) tells me nothing and refers me to “Alsace” (a long article for searching) – I finally find it after a quick scan, and the material here could have been reproduced under the original heading of “Edelzwicker”. The entry for “Niagara” mentions only the grape, and indeed there are no entries for Canadian wine beyond “Canada” and its sub-headings. I know that on a world scale we are not that important as a wine-producing nation (except maybe icewine), but among the colour photos there is one of a water spray at Cedar Creek Winery in BC, which gets the slamming knock for being a “relatively wasteful and imprecise technology”. Come on, guys, be nice to us – why not a picture of frozen grapes for the icewine pressing? The article on “Noilly Prat” fails to note that there is a dramatic difference between that particular vermouth in Europe and in North America: the version exported from Europe is meant for the martini market. If you want the real thing, you must ask for “Noilly Prat Classique”, and not all foreign markets have it. Audience and level of use: wine lovers everywhere, reference libraries, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: The entry for “Wine writing” says that it is “a parasitical activity undertaken by wine writers, enabled by vine-growing and wine-making but more usually associated with wine tasting”. There is also an entry for “wine bore”, but you’ll need to check it out under “bore, wine” since Robinson decided to relocate it as far away from the “wine” entries as possible. So far as I know, this is the only inverted subject listing in the book which deals with “wine” – all the rest are in the “W” section, beginning with the word “wine” The downside to this book: There needs to be more discussion about the impact of websites and email and discussion forums on the Internet. The book needs to be available as a word searchable database, on CD-ROM. Adobe PDFs would be useful – the New Yorker did it to great acclaim. The upside to this book: in the fast-changing wine world, seven years is a long time between editions. It is good to have this book back. Quality/Price Rating: 95. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. THE OXFORD COMPANION TO FOOD. Second edition. (Oxford University Press, 2006, 907 pages, ISBN 0-19-280681-5, $75 hardbound) has been edited and prepared by Alan Davidson, food historian (Petit Propos Culinaires), Oxford Food Symposia, fish and seafood writer nonpareil. He died in 2003, and responsibility for revisions went to Tom Jaine, a free lance writer specializing in food history. In 1976, Alan Davidson got a contract to produce this book for both Oxford (hardback) and Penguin (paperback). Twenty years later it was ready, and it was worth the wait...It has already won more than a half dozen major awards in food reference categories (the IACP, Versailles, James Beard, Andre Simon, Glenfiddich, et al). The paperback version, published a few years later, updated and corrected a few items and omissions. Contributors to the project included Harold McGee, Ray Sokolov, John Ayto, Sri Owen, and lots of quotes from John Mariani. But Davidson wrote a lot of it himself over the past 20 years, variously estimated at 80%. This is a food reference book, so there are no recipes (but sometimes procedures are indicated). It covers the whole world with 3,000 cogent entries, with equal emphasis about all continents and regions. Featured are aquatic plant foods (dulse, kelp, nori), cereals, fruits, fungi, nuts, condiments, vegetables, birds, dairy, fish, seafood, baked goods, beverages, candy, sauces, cookbook authors, culinary terms, food culture (e.g., afternoon tea, dietary laws, markets, picnic, yin-yang -- even "white trash cooking"), and science (e.g., additives, amino acids, cholesterol, digestion, fibre, oxalic acid). National and regional cuisines have separate, overview entries – there are 120 of these! The publisher claims hundreds of updates with 72 new entries (food in film, globalization, neuroanatomy, the Silk Road, confetti, doggy bags, myrrh, potluck). Aardvark to zuppa inglese: headwords are alphabetically arranged, with internal cross references for browsing. There are subject indexes and indexes of synonyms. Audience and level of use: The hardbound has three columns per page; libraries will want this version, as will cooking schools or the larger restaurants. The downside to this book: There needs to be more discussion about the impact of websites and email and discussion forums on the Internet. The book needs to be available as a word searchable database, on CD-ROM. Adobe PDFs would be useful – the New Yorker did it to great acclaim. The upside to this book: in the fast-changing food world, nine years is a long time between editions. It is good to have this book back. Quality/Price Rating: 96. 3. THE PROFESSIONAL CHEF. 8th edition. (John Wiley, 2006, 1216 pages, ISBN 0-7645-5734-3, $90.99) is from the Culinary Institute of America. The last edition was in 2002, clocking in at 1036 pages and selling for six and a half dollars more: credit the exchange rate for this drop in price. The first edition was in 1962; I still have -- and use -- my fourth edition from 1974. This "Bible" serves as the school's main text book, and it is endorsed by every major chef in North America and other places (e.g., Paul Bocuse, Alfred Portale, Thomas Keller, even Anthony Bourdain). And it is a bargain price for such an encyclopedia. Professionals need it, as do amateur foodies -- because it has detailed explanations of cooking methods, ranging from broths to multi-layered main courses and desserts. Indeed, the 641 recipes (plus variations) don't even start until page 332, with mirepoix and stocks. The first part of the book details basics such as inventory control, scheduling, controlling costs as well as food preps and cuts of meat. Side issues are relegated to other text books, such as ones dealing with wine, or "Culinary Math", “Service", or "Garde Manger". Indeed, there are only two brief paragraphs on wine and liquors in the whole book, and a risotto recipe is the only one that specified wine (and even that is just an option to replace one-quarter of stock with white wine). Updated material after four years includes new data on food safety principles (there's always something new here), photos and illustrations, new technology and software, new recipes for trendy and faddish foods, plus of course updated statistics. Thorough, comprehensive, and relatively free of errors. Audience and level of use: hospitality schools, good amateur home cooks. The downside to this book: despite updating, there is nothing here on organic food or genetically-modified (GM) food – except in one paragraph. Also, I felt the book needed a few pages on the use of wines in cooking -- I can see food-wine matching being relegated to another book, but not "cooking with wines". The upside to this book: comprehensive, with a separate recipe listing at the front. Quality/Price Rating: 95. 4. A COOK’S TOUR OF SCOTLAND; from Barra to Brora in 120 recipes (Headline Books, 2006; distr. MacArthur, 224 pages, ISBN 0-7553-1417-4, $39.95 hard covers) is by Sue Lawrence, who has written many articles and books about Scottish cooking. This is a people-oriented book, coming across cheese producers, jam makers, barley millers, sausage makers, black pudding butchers, and the like. The food is regional, and includes cockles from Barra, venison from the Highlands, seaweed from Auchmithie Beach, and lamb from Shetland. The chapters are arranged by product, such as lobster, mussel, salmon, bacon, haggis, kale. The recipes have both imperial and metric measurements for each ingredient. At the back there is a bibliography and a resources list (all Scottish). Audience and level of use: fans or Scottish cooking or regional cookbooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: clotted cream cranachan; plume caike; crab and arugula tart; hairy tatties; bean, kale and sausage crusty hotpot; criffel and zucchini pizza. The downside to this book: too many non-relevant family pictures of Lawrence. The upside to this book: good travel notes and interviews. Large type for the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 5. THE IRISH SPIRIT; recipes inspired by the legendary drinks of Ireland (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 0- 8118-5042-0, $29.95 paper covers) is by Margaret M. Johnson, a US food writer specializing in her Irish heritage with a multitude of food articles and cookbooks about Irish food. This current book is all about traditional Irish fare, but using ale, cider, stout (six recipes), mead (2 recipes), whiskey, or Irish cream (six recipes) in the prep. Many of the recipes, from the mediaeval period, have been modernized. There are cook’s notes for advice. All the preps are arranged by brew used. US volume measurements are employed. Audience and level of use: Irish. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Guinness applesauce cake with lemon icing; pumpkin-cider soup; ale-battered mushrooms; feather gingerbread; gaelic steak; pears poached in mead. The downside to this book: too many scenic photos of Ireland. The index misses quite a few items (e.g., mead). The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents at the back, which seems to be the standard at Chronicle Books. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 6. SIMPLE ASIAN COOKERY (BBC Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages, ISBN 0-563-49368-2, $22.95 paper covers) is by Ken Hom. And 7. SIMPLE MEDITERRANEAN COOKERY (BBC Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages, ISBN 0-563-49327-3, $22.95 paper covers) is by Claudia Roden. And 8. SIMPLE ASIAN COOKERY (BBC Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages, ISBN 0-563-49328-3, $22.95 paper covers) is by Ken Hom. Both writers are serious cookbook authors. All three books were previous available in 2002 and 2003, with similar titles such as “Foolproof Asian Cookery”, “Foolproof Thai Cookery”, etc. They cover the full range of dishes, with metric and imperial measurements for each ingredient. Menus, with no page references, are given at the end, along with a useful index. No desserts are listed. Prep times and cooking times are clearly indicated. Although there are only 40 recipes apiece, each book should appeal to beginning cooks. Audience and level of use: beginners The downside to this book: only 40 recipes each. The upside to this book: clearly laid out, even with instructional photos. Quality/Price Rating: 82. 9. LOBEL’S MEAT AND WINE; great recipes for cooking and pairing (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4732- 2, $44 hard covers) is by the Lobel family of M. Lobel and Sons meat market in New York City. Mary Goodbody (food) and David Whiteman (wine) are the focusing writers. This is a book detailing how best to combine meat with wine, both in cooking with wine and wine service. There are lists of top wines that are best paired with food (just grape names and region names, no branded names). In the 80 step-by-step recipes there are wine recommendations and notes, with three or four choices of brand names. The wine notes are detailed. There is also advice on marinating, seasoning, salting, and browning meats, and on heating wine. Additional recipes support stocks, seasoning pastes, and side dishes. Audience and level of use: meat eaters and wine drinkers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: creamy chicken livers with vin santo; oven-braised beef short ribs with black pepper and Chianti; catalan veal stew with prunes and potatoes; tripe with oxtail and chorizo; basque pork chops with red bell peppers and cinnamon; white bean and lamb casserole with garlic. The downside to this book: the wine notes are useful but the recipes cover much the same ground as any other basic meat book. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 10. A TASTE OF EXCELLENCE COOKBOOK (Rizzoli, 2006; distr. Random House Canada, 208 pages, ISBN 0-8478-2839-5, $39.95 hard covers) is from the Holland America Line. This is volume one: Culinary Signature Collection, as authored by Master Chef Rudy Sodamin. The 100 recipes are derived from the 14 vessels in the Holland America Line. There are comprehensive menus for all times of the day, as well as drinks and cocktails. The international recipes are, of course, for home re- creation. Chapters are arranged by meals and courses, each with menus and drinks. There are reproductions of older menus and older wine lists (with their cheaper prices). But there are no wine recommendations for the main courses. US weights and measurements are used, with a metric table of equivalents. Overall, the scope is like a club or a hotel fine dining room. Audience and level of use: with more than 600,000 passengers a year, I’d imagine that the book is pre-sold. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bitterballen with mustard; dialogue of smoked salmon tartare (two kinds) with guacamole and tomato salsa; chilled sour cherry soup with fried ginger; arugula and frisee with pear and pancetta; soto ayam (Indonesian chicken and vegetable soup); beef kari kari. The downside to this book: actually, there are only as handful of restaurant setup photos, including many crammed on the very last page. I’d lie some more, especially of the kitchen at work. The upside to this book: great pictures of plated dishes. There is also a ribbon bookmark. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 11. THE UNITED STATES OF ARUGULA; how we became a gourmet nation (Broadway Books, 2006, 393 pages, ISBN 0-7679-1579-8, $35 hard covers) is by David Kamp, a magazine writer and editor, principally for GQ and Vanity Fair. “Arugula” in this book is mentioned just once, on p. 227, but then there is an immense amount of ground to cover here, as noted by the log rollers on the back cover ((Gael Greene, Molly O’Neill, Jacques Pepin, even Marion Nestle). The book is touted as “behind-the- scenes story of the American food revolution that has made celebrity chefs, baby greens, fancy fridges, and destination restaurants familiar aspects of our everyday lives”. Or, how gourmet eating went from obscurity to pervasive, from using macaroni to using pasta, from overcooked vegetables to microgreens. With PR words such as “wickedly entertaining” and “rollicking” and “revealing”, the book appears to be high Kamp. According to author Kamp, it all began with James Beard, Julia Child, and Craig Claiborne, followed by Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower, Wolfgang Puck, and the television stars Emeril and Mario (no last names please). Sideline players include Williams-Sonoma, Dean and Deluca, and Niman Ranch. In many respects, this is a vivid history of food writing in America, since the Kennedys of the 1960s. It has been serialized in Vanity Fair already, and the style is, of course, personality driven. I ate it up. Kamp concludes with a bibliography of magazine articles and books. It is all about USA, with very little on the UK (smattering of Elizabeth David), precious little on Yankee ex- pat Richard Olney living in France, nothing on Canada. But who cares? Eating just fun…And I am part of the system, so I should just suck it up. But Kamp misses where it is at: all the real foodies today are on the Internet, via eGullet (one mention), Chowhound (no mentions), and websites and blogs (no mentions at all). And that’s a shame. Audience and level of use: those looking for an entertaining, gossip- loaded read about food history – but only in the USA. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Kamp goes on and on about Claiborne’s confused sexuality and Rick Bayless’ endorsement of a Burger King product (and the reaction from his colleagues). The downside to this book: there does not seem to be any mention of the organic food industry, just two references to organic food. There is no index reference to the word “recipe”. The upside to this book: hey, there is an index! Now I can find things. Quality/Price Rating: a good read, borrow it from the library, worth an 85. 12. THE WORLD OF SPICE (Kyle Cathie, 2003, 2006, distr. Raincoast, 240 pages, ISBN 1-85626-674-5, $34.95 paper covers) is by Michael Bateman, a UK food writer. It was originally published in hardback in 2003, and republished in paper with no changes. 200 recipes, in metric and imperial measurements, cover a range of spices. The recipes are grouped by region of the world, and this is followed by a directory to various spices, grouped by part of the plant (roots, barks, leaves, berries, seeds, flowers, etc.). Under each is a photo, a description, and answers to basic questions (what does it look like? How do you use it? Where does it grow? Medicinal uses?). There’s a good recipe here for Turkish delight. There is also a resource section, with a menu planner, weights and measures conversion charts, and index. Audience and level of use: basic and useful for identification Quality/Price Rating: 83. 13. THE BON APPETIT COOKBOOK (John Wiley & Sons, 2006, 792 pages, ISBN 0-7645-9686-1, $41.99 hard covers) is by Barbara Fairchild, the current Editor in Chief of Bon Appetit magazine (founded in 1956, current circulation 1.3 million). This is their first ever general cookbook as they attempt to join the ranks of Gourmet, Joy of Cooking (expected out this Fall), Doubleday, Good Housekeeping, Mark Bittman, and others with a general all-purpose cookbook of at least one thousand preps. There are 1200 recipes here plus 59 detailed illustrations of ingredients and techniques. All courses are covered, in the same approach as the magazine. This is pretty basic stuff, with a distinct American flavour or twist (e.g., Spencer steak, many regional references) plus some Mexican. Most recipes have no foreign words in them, and they are certainly not indexed under those words. What the world knows as a “pain bagnat” is here “salade nicoise sandwich”, and indexed under “salade”. There is no salade nicoise itself. “Chicken in green pumpkin seed sauce” sounds so quaint until you realize that it is actually “pipian verde”. The word “blinkered” comes to mind. The colour inserts have titles of the preps, with page references. There is a long list of contributors cited at the back of the book, but recipes are not sourced as to who proposed what. Audience and level of use: subscribers, generalists, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: coffee-cardamom flans with orange crème fraiche; mustard see-crusted halibut; Tijuana tangerine and mixed green salad; crab and corn puddings; double-baked roquefort potato. The downside to this book: no metric weights and measures given, not even a table of equivalents! The upside to this book: good layout and typefaces and font sizes. Also, there is a free coupon for a year’s worth of Bon Appetit by mail. If you already subscribe, the subscription will be extended. Unfortunately, the offer does not apply to Canada. So this reduces the US price by $12 – even more if the book is bought through Amazon. That makes it so cheap that you cannot afford to NOT buy it. Quality/Price Rating: better value for our American friends, say 84 in Canada. 14. AUTUMN IN PIEMONTE; food and travel in Italy’s north-west (Hardie Grant Books, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 244 pages, ISBN 1- 74066-308-X, $14.95 US hard covers) is by Manuel Darling-Gansser, a Swiss travel and food writer (her earlier book was “Under the Olive Tree”). The book was originally published in Australia. It is part memoir, part local history, and part cook book; the themes are stories about family, friends and food. This northern province of Italy, up against France and Switzerland, has the agriculturally rich Po Valley. All of the recipes have ingredients listed with both metric and imperial measurements, which is the ideal. The resource list is all Piedmont, but includes caffes and bars, restaurants, markets, and agriturismi. Audience and level of use: travelers, memoirists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: semifreddo al Torrone (nougat); pastry sticks with anchovy butter; arcimboldo (vegetable mixture); fontina caterpillar; veal medaillons; pate di tonno for stuffed red bells. The downside to this book: the index has not been done too thoroughly; it is merely adequate. The upside to this book: there are conversion tables. Quality/Price Rating: hard to beat the price, 84. 15. ITALY FOR THE GOURMET TRAVELLER. Revised and updated edition. (Kyle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 725 pages, ISBN1-904920-52-7, $34.95 paper covers) is by Fred Plotkin, a well-known food writer who has specialized in Italian food. He has written definitive books of food on the Italian Riviera and in Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. This semi-directory was first published in 1994 and last revised in 2003. It has won some Italian gastronomic reference book prizes. The cover says it includes restaurants, trattorias, food fairs, festivals, bakeries, coffee bars, wine bars, bookstores, gourmet shops, markets, vineyards, farms, wineries, olive oil producers, cooking schools, and the people involved in the businesses. There are 42 recipes, all classics, and the book is arranged by region, Liguria to Calabria plus the islands (21 chapters in all). For each region, he gives a sketch map, a foodie overview, a wine overview, food descriptions broken down by courses, basics of cheeses and olive oils and seafood, and directory data for the establishments (names and numbers) – plus two recipes. There is a concluding glossary of Italian food and wine plus an index to the cities. Audience and level of use: those actually traveling to Italy could profit from this book, food reference libraries. Some interesting or unusual facts: He identifies “classic food towns”, which include San Remo (Liguria), Alba (Piedmont), Siena (Tuscany), Bologna, Rome, Amalfi, etc. and then describes them. The downside to this book: it is a heavy paperback to carry about, made so by the paper stock used to accommodate the reproduction of the photographs. The upside to this book: comprehensive coverage. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 16. SUNDAY ROAST; the complete guide to cooking and carving (Kyle Cathie, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 1-85626-672-9, $29.95 paper covers) is by Clarissa Dickson Wright and Johnny Scott. She, of course, was one half of the “Two Fat Ladies” on BBC. Subsequent to that series, she joined up with Johnny for a new series “Clarissa and the Countryman”. They also authored “Game Cookbook”. This current book was originally published in 2002; here, it has been revised. It is mainly roasts and their sauces with veggie accompaniments. All the classics are here, plus two fish (salmon, turbot): how to choose, cook and carve whole birds, shoulders, legs and hips. It is an open and shut book. They have 20 pages for leftovers. At the back there is a list of suppliers of organic meat plus six pages of small print for other butchers in the UK. Audience and level of use: meat lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes for leftovers: Cuban beef hash; bubble and squeak; veeraswamy curry of cold meat; shepherd’s pie (lamb); dunelmo of veal; pork crepes; ham parsnip and walnut fritters. The downside to this book: no wine recommendations. There is no porchetts recipe either. The upside to this book: good price. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 17. BIG SMALL PLATES (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 370 pages, ISBN 1-58008- 523-7, $45 hard covers) is by Cindy Pawlcyn, who has opened more than a dozen restaurants since 1983. She is currently co-owner of both Mustards and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena, California. Her other co-owners are the Jacinto brothers, one per resto, and they are her co-authors here. And 18. SHANE OSBORN’S STARTERS (Quadrille, 2004, 2005; distr. Ten Speed Press, 160 pages, ISBN 1-84400-161-X, $24.95 paper covers) is by a London UK two Michelin-starred chef. Here are even more books on “small plates” – I had dealt with two others just last month. Both here are variously upscale. Both will mean lots of cooking and plates and flatware and wine glasses – and lots of cleanup. That goes with the territory of small plates. Pawlcyn’s book has 150 recipes, all sampler-size, and you’ll need about four each for a meal. Her range is soups, finger foods, salads, scoops and dips, and sweets. Min-burgers are a specialty, with beef, duck and lamb as the meats. It is arranged by style, such as “sticks and picks”, bowls, rafts, knife and fork). There are extensive cook’s notes and prep notes. She has 17 suggested menus for small-plate meals, arranged by season and part themes (fish tostada festival, summer BBQ). There is a glossary and a list of US resources. All the ingredients are listed with US weights and measures. Osborn has 125 recipes which can be scaled upwards or downwards. It is arranged by nibbles and snacks, quick and easy, group food, posh food. There are metric measurements in the recipes. Audience and level of use: I could find 11 recipes I wanted from Pawlcyn and 7 from Osborn; otherwise, there is not much difference except in price and expression of ingredient measurement. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: from Pawlcyn, grilled street corn, potato-leek pancakes with sour cream, salmon-halibut-scallop ceviche with coconut. From Osborn, seared veal carpaccio, pickled baby veggies, smoked eel pate with apple and lime, carmelised endive tart with walnut and roasted pear. The downside to this book: neither book deals with wine service or matching. The upside to this book: good pictures of plated presentation of food. Quality/Price Rating: Osborn is about half the price for only slightly fewer recipes, so Osborn gets 90 while Pawlcyn gets 87. 19. WINE WISDOM (Quadrille, 2004, 2005; distr. Ten Speed Press, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84400-162-8, $23.95 paper covers) is by Susy Atkins, a UK wine writer who specializes in wine primers. She is also the Wine Editor of Delicious magazine. Here she works on 64 different wines and styles, explored through 18 tastings. All of it emphasizes taste, and the principles to allow you taste on your own. She provides the usual explanations of appearance, aroma, flavour and finish. Wine appreciation is all about knowing what you are doing. Section one has stuff on the big six varietals (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir). The next section moves on to another six (semillon, pinot gris, viognier, shiraz/syrah, sangiovese, tempranillo) and part three covers another 12 varietals. One red wine tasting from part one covers New World pinot noir, New World cabernet sauvignon, and warm climate merlot: all the big fruit bombs. With whites in part one, there is a tasting of German riesling, European sauvignon blanc, and French chardonnay. Something for everybody of course, to allow you to find a style of wine you’d enjoy the most. Audience and level of use: beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: To move on, she suggests joining a club, reading a book or two or some magazines, taking courses, or traveling. I didn’t note any internet usage. The downside to this book: lots of pix of wines in glasses, but not informative pictures. The upside to this book: pretty through at this level Quality/Price Rating: 88. 20. CAFÉ PASQUAL’S; recipes from Santa Fe’s renowned corner café (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 157 pages, ISBN 1-58008-649-7, $38.95 hard covers) is yet another book dealing with Santa Fe food and cooking. Here the author is the executive chef and founder of Café Pasqual’s, a place in Santa Fe that I have actually eaten in – and I loved it. But that is maybe because it was also a breakfast place, and an Asiatic fusion food place. It does not restrict itself to New Mexican food. The resto has been around almost 30 years, and ten years ago it put out its first cookbook. Here, there are 75 recipes plus an “eclectic pantry”. The ingredients in the larder are eight Mexican and 22 non-Mexican. The emphasis with the food is on organic greens and naturally raised meats. There is a generous breakfast section here – many people in Santa Fe eat out for breakfast, and there are many restos that actually operate only from 7 AM through 3 PM. A US sources list completes the package. Audience and level of use: restaurant chef book, hospitality schools, New Mexican food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: smoked trout hash with poached eggs and tomatillo salsa; Andalusian white gazpacho; beet and chipotle soup; grilled lamb chops with pomegranate molasses; pumpkins with vegetable stew in chipotle cream sauce; chorizo quiche with cornmeal crust. The downside to this book: only US volumes and weights are used, with no tables of metric equivalents. The upside to this book: a well-known resto, but tight quarters with only 650 square feet. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 21. BIBA’S ITALY; favorite recipes from the splendid cities (Artisan, 2006; distr. T. Allen, 320 pages, ISBN 1-58965-317-0, $39.95 hard covers) is by well-known Italian TV chef and cookbook author, Biba Caggiano who is also a chef-owner of a Sacramento restaurant. The 100 recipes, which she started collecting in 2000, come from Rome, Florence, Bologna, Milan, and Venice, and the book is arranged that way. There is a list of recipes by course (about 20 to 25 for each city), some notes on the wines of the region, plus notes on restaurants, wine bars, bakeries, food markets, cooking schools, basic foods of the area, and the like. In this respect, it looks a lot like Plotkin’s book (no. 15 above). US volume measurements are used, and there are US sources listed for rare Italian specialties. Audience and level of use: Biba’s fans, Italian cooking lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes: bucatini with pancetta and pecorino and black pepper (Rome); green tea tonnarelli with shrimp (Rome); baked scamorza and pear skewers (Florence); garganelli with sausage and porcini (Bologna); stuffed pork chops (Bologna); osso buco (Milan). The downside to this book: no metric tables of equivalents. The upside to this book: first cookbook I’ve seen in a long time with a deckle edge. This is a good Italian food topic to illustrate the diversity of cooking in that land. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 22. THE WINE LOVER’S HEALTHY WEIGHT LOSS PLAN (McGraw-Hill, 2006, 290 pages, ISBN 0-07-146363-7, $21.95 paper covers) is by Tedd Goldfinger, MD, a physician certified in cardiovascular disease and internal medicine, and Lynn Nicholson, a Cordon Bleu graduate. The cover proclaims “100 recipes that let you enjoy the health benefits of your favorite wine”. This is basically an augmented Cretan diet of olive oil, red wine and wild greens for that right proportion of alpha- linoleic acid needed for the proper cardiovascular function, arthritis reduction, Alzheimer’s, etc. The authors have widened the scope to include most of the Mediterranean basin and also white wine. 19 recipes deal with greens, which in North America are not wild unless you pick them yourself, which is easy to do with dandelion greens. The first 100 pages is a description of what is good for you. Then there are 150 pages of preps, each with some wine recommendations, usually one specific with a brand name plus two general by region or grape variety. Some of the recipes are sourced from other people or restaurants, but they cover all courses including breakfasts. US measurements are used, and there is a bibliography of books and articles for further reading. Audience and level of use: those looking for an excuse to lose weight, wine drinkers looking for relief and justification. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: smoked salmon hash; warm arugula and Portobello salad; shrimp and white bean salad; curried red lentil soup with lime; Swiss chard and bean risotto; Moroccan game hens. The downside to this book: no metric tables of equivalents. You still need to exercise if you are planning on losing weight; however, once the weight is gone, you can just simply walk in order to maintain your weight. The upside to this book: there is no calorie counting, the food tastes great, and there is a subject index as well as a recipe index. Quality/Price Rating: 88. WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR AUGUST 2006 ================================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. WINDOWS ON THE WORLD COMPLETE WINE COURSE: 2007 edition (Sterling Publishing, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 292 pages, ISBN 1-4027- 3928-1, $32.95 hard covers) is by Kevin Zraly, an award winning wine expert and long-time sommelier of that late, lamented restaurant atop the World Trade Center. This has been newly revised and expanded, with 16 pages of new material on how to taste wine. Indeed, it has even come down three dollars in price! It has frequently been revised since its first edition in 1985. Now it has been redesigned in layout, and with more recommendations in his tour of the latest vintages. Over 20,000 students have taken Zraly's courses and workshops. This is the text that comes with the courses, and as such, it serves as a suitable book for almost any introductory wine course. It certainly does address the needs of students and beginners: the style-format is "question and answer", on what wine is, tasting wine (how to taste wine over sixty seconds), wine service at home and in restaurants, storage and cellaring. He avoids the markup controversies in restaurants; however, one can compare a number of different sections and conclude that he favours 3 to 4 times the wholesale price. The bulk of the arrangement is by "classes", with ones for white wine, red wines, champagne, fortified, and wines from outside France and the United States -- still in the Q & A format, augmented by a continuous stream of sidebars and tidbits which extend the answers. There is a chapter co-written with Andrea Immer on matching wines with foods. Throughout, too, there are full-colour reproductions of wine labels. The book concludes with a glossary and a pronunciation key, as well as bibliographic notes for further reference reading. Audience: the learner, also restaurant personnel (a big chunk of this book deals with restaurant service and pricing). The downside to this book: his recommendations for everyday, once a week, and once a month wines (all based on price) are a bit out of whack with reality. People do drink better wines at home. The everyday wines are $10 and under. With US discounting, this comes in at about $7 apiece. These are guzzling wines, patios, parties, etc. Not “everyday” for home. His everyday wines should really be almost at the “once a week” the $10 – 20 level. He needs a new range, say “under $15 discount price”, “$15 – 25 discount price”, etc. Anybody who’ll be buying this book is a serious wine drinker anyway. The upside to this book: all of the tidbits are mostly indexed, and all of the basics are covered. Quality/Price Ratio: 90 * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. TASTING CLUB (DK, 2006, 256 pages, ISBN 0-7566-2059-7, $30 hard covers) is by Dina Cheney. Essentially, it is a guide to hosting a tasting party on different foods. The obvious ones are wine and chocolate and cheese, but there is also honey, tea, extra virgin olive oil, cured meats, balsamic vinegar, apples, and beer. A subtitle for the book is “gathering together to share and savor your favorite tastes”, which is true and which puts the emphasis on “your”. For this is YOUR party and you are in control. You know what you and the group will be tasting, and you can “one up” everybody else at the event. Of course, this is my guy side talking. The gal side would use the book for entertainment ideas, while the guy side would use it as leverage. Her chapter on the Basics deals with how to manage the party, along with tasting forms for each food and/or guest (these can be photocopied). She correctly notes that “six” appears to be a good number for tasting any products. For each food, there is background information for each country and a menu with 28 recipes (in total) for appropriate pairings. Each tasting chapter ends with the form and a glossary of the appropriate lingo. There is a concluding bibliography for more reading on varieties of foods, or you can simply use the web (she notes pertinent URLs). Audience and level of use: those seeking an unusual entertaining idea. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ribbiola toasts with fresh oregano; armagnac cider syrup with baked apples; almond-scented green tea shortbread cookies with cardamom sugar; croutes with blue cheese; frittata with peas and pancetta; hazelnut tiramisu; port-infused fig and orange scones. The downside to this book: tiny print for the lists of ingredients. Also, there is no metric conversion charts for the US volume weights and measures. The upside to this book: here’s a great book for power plays, and you can constantly spin off the tastings (different cheeses, different oils, etc.). Quality/Price Rating: 91. 3. RETURN TO TUSCANY; recipes from a Tuscan cookery school (BBC Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 0-563-49354-2, $33.95 hard covers) is by Giancarlo and Katie Caldesi, owners of two restaurants in Marylebone, London, and authors of a previous Italian cookbook in 2005. They now also operate “La Cucina Caldesi”, a cookery school that offers courses in both the UK and in Tuscany. There are 80 preps of family recipes and contemporary regional updates; the book is meant to accompany the BBC television series. Each chapter starts with a “cooking school” lesson, with cook’s notes and both metric and imperial measurements for the ingredients. There are also seven menu suggestions, such as a buffet lunch for a crowd, a winter dinner party, quick after-work entertaining, vegetarian dinner party, and a Tuscan- style Christmas. Audience and level of use: those contemplating a Tuscan cooking school holiday. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: white winter salad with honey dressing; sformato of carrots; porcini and pecorino refried mash; duck ragu; gnocchi and pici; porchetta; steak tagliata The downside to this book: too many scenic pictures. The upside to this book: good typeface and large fonts. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 4. PIANO, PIANO, PIENO (HarperCollins, 2006, 435 pages, ISBN 0-00- 639552-X, $34.95 paper covers) is by a Canadian, Susan McKenna Grant, who bought a 165 acre piece of Tuscany about 1995. “La Petraia”, as it is known, is in splendid isolation, on a mountain top and hairpin miles away from larger urban centres. It has been characterized as an “Agriturismo di Qualita” self-sustaining farm business. The 150 recipes are mostly classics, from the farm and the surrounding regions. Thus, there are preps here from Liguria, Val D’Aosta, even Naples and Sicily. The recipes say where they are from. For example, the breads come from several different regions. The emphasis is on slow food and artisan baking (the title translates into English as “slowly, slowly, full”). There are lots of sidebars and extensive cook’s notes, sort of memoir- ish. Her arrangement is by breads, then starters, the primi (soups, pasta), the secondi, one pots, sides and dolci. While there are some colour photos, there is also great black and white photography. Her section on breadmaking is exemplary, with much thought about bigas and matching Italian bread styles to Italian regional reds. Both metric and imperial measurements are given. The recipes for the breads have three measurements: grams, ounces, and volumes. One small nagging point: she has a recipe for limoncello which calls for 190 proof alcohol which is not sold in Canada (you need to be a hospital to get it). You’ll need to buy Everclear in the US. Also, she uses more sugar than I’ve ever used in limoncello – so you might want to start low and keep adding sugar until it reaches your taste level. Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers should check out their website www.pianopianopieno.ca. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chestnut bread; spinach meatballs served in a frico basket; greens with raisin and pine nut filling; mountain and sea sauce for pappardelle; panettone; stewed fava beans with pancetta. The downside to this book: the recipes run on. They don’t start at the top of a new page. The upside to this book: there is an extensive bibliography – not just cookbooks and bread books abut also materials dealing with agriculture, food reference, history and culture, and periodicals. In format, there is good layout, leading, and display of graphics. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 5. NATURAL CURES “THEY” DON’T WANT YOU TO KNOW ABOUT (Phoenix Audio, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, unabridged, 12 hours on 12 CDs, ISBN 1-59777-105-8, $47.95) is by Kevin Trudeau, author of the bestselling print book (Phoenix says over 4.5 million sold) of the same name. The book dealt with losing weight and avoiding ill-health issues. His rants may satisfy most of us as he fulminates – with documentation – against the supermarkets which sell processed and genetically-modified food products. Food distribution is regulated by various government agencies, and he takes them on. He claims they lay the foundation for future disease and chronic ill-health for the consumer, and that they guarantee income for the big corporations and drug companies. So he is after “bad” food and drugs. In addition to alerting consumers to these nasty negatives, he also gets positive by alerting us to alternative therapies and philosophies, emphasizing natural cures (his book’s title) to lose weight and avoid ill-health. Only about a third of the material deals directly with food, but we can all profit by learning about the drug industry. After listening to this set, you’ll probably agree with me that one needs to pay attention and digest all the labels carefully, especially food labels. Be aware of your surroundings. It certainly helps to be a cynic. Trudeau reads his own stuff. I liked his voice, a bit high in tone but also passionate. My wife, an audio reader, did not like his style. C’est la vie… Audience and level of use: conspiracists, foodies, alternative health supporters, informed allopaths. Some interesting or unusual facts: The reading – and the book – are loaded with disclaimers about practicing medicine without a license. The information is presented for educational purposes only, etc. The lawyers have been busy. The downside to this CD: polemic, you may not want to hear it while stuck in traffic. An insert card would have been useful, for a list of topics by CD. The upside to this CD: Trudeau has taken the opportunity to add extra material and update some thoughts, even though he has a sequel coming out in the Fall of 2006. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 6. STONEWALL KITCHEN FAVORITES; delicious recipes to share with family and friends every day (Clarkson Potter, 2006, distr. Random House Canada, 288 pages, ISBN 0-307-33681-6, $44 hard covers) is by the team of Jonathan King and Jim Stott, who own Stonewall Kitchen in Maine, and Kathy Gunst. This is their third cookbook together. A lot of these 125 recipes are regional food, mainly New England and maritime (Atlantic). The family favourites are not necessarily related to their preserves business, although the recipes do call for punched-up flavours – mostly fresh accents of ginger, herbs, spices and citrus. They dispense with appetizers, heading right into starters of soups and salads. There are thirty pages of breakfast (14 recipes), followed by soups, salads, sandwiches, seafood, pasta, etc,. through to dessert, all with plenty of cook’s notes which encourage experimentation and variations. Fifteen menus are given, mostly three courses worth, plus many photos of plated preps. US measurements are used. Audience and level of use: fans of the region or of Stonewall cookbooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shellfish chowder; prosciutto and grilled asparagus salad; grilled chicken hero; polenta croutons; Portuguese-style chicken stew; coq au vin. The downside to this book: there is no table of metric equivalents. Also, in what appears to be a normal regular occurrence with cookbooks these days, there are two full pages of acknowledgments. The upside to this book: all of the menus have page references. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 7. THE HEARTBREAK GRAPE; a journey in search of the perfect pinot noir. Completely revised and updated. (McArthur and Company, 2006, 246 pages, ISBN 1-55278-586-6, $14.95 paper covers) is by Marq de Villiers, former editor and publisher of Toronto Life, and formerly a colleague of mine at Ryerson University. It was originally published in 1993 by HarperCollins Canada. This edition has been extensively updated (there are references to February 2006) although the original premise of tracing a 1987 bottle of Calera Pinot Noir, from California and made by Josh Jensen, remains. The book was originally shortlisted for major prizes. It is good to see it back in print, and sales should be spurred on by the movie “Sideways”. The opening paragraph is now on page three, and the opening words “Outside, the sun was slanting down over the golden California hills..” is now “Outside on the same terrace, the sun was decanting over those same California hills”. I’m not sure why “slanting down” was replaced by “decanting over”. Similarly, later in that same paragraph, the word “silicone” has been replaced by “plastic”. Why? Of course, I did not compare every single image, but I did want to get a flavour of what constitutes changes. It is still a good educational story about pinot noir and why it is the heartbreak grape (tough to grow, to produce, and to have character, finesse, and elegance). Along the way, the reader will learn about terroir, techniques, limestone, and California pinot noirs in general. And above all, the reader will learn about the tenacity of California winemakers. Audience and level of use: anybody interested in wine, especially pinot noirs. Some interesting or unusual facts: there are over 365 clones of pinot noir in Burgundy alone. The downside to this book: no bibliography of sources, and no index – which is too bad. It makes it hard to retrieve information. The upside to this book: the quality of the writing is there, much like the pinot noir grape itself: literary character, finesse, and elegance. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 8. HARRY’S ROADHOUSE COOKBOOK (Gibbs Smith, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 1-58685-838-6, $32.95 paper covers) is by Harry Shapiro and Peyton Young. They opened their restaurant 13 years ago, after relocating from a Mexican restaurant in Philadelphia. Most of the food is a Southwestern or Santa Fe cuisine take on diner food, all of it home-cooked. Their motto is “A square meal every time”. The New Mexican influence is strongly felt through the roasted poblanos and other use of fire. The book’s arrangement starts with desserts (23 pages), followed by breakfasts, appetizers, salads, and then “square meals”. Each recipe indicates prep times, cooking times, portions, and cook’s notes. All the measurements are American. Audience and level of use: home cooks, the diner experience. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: huevos divorciados; chile rellenos omelet; migas with beans; smoked duck flautas with mango sauce; sopa de lima; pollo pibil; halibut with posole. The downside to this book: lacks metric conversion charts. The upside to this book: clearly written, and the photos are indexed. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 9. THE GLORIOUS SOUPS AND STEWS OF ITALY (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 168 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4817-5, $24.95 paper covers) is by Domenica Marchetti, a magazine food writer who has culled her preps from several trips through Italy. Italian cookbooks seem to sell, and the idea behind this one is to produce 70 recipes of classics and regional specialties and family dishes for stews or expandable soups (and vice versa). The arrangement is seasonal: from fall through summer. There is pantry advice, preps for stocks and broths, cook’s notes, and sections on techniques of braising and stewing. Equipment is also discussed. Ancillary material also covers accompaniments such as crostate, bruschetta, risotto, and polenta. The resources list is all US, as are the measurements. Audience and level of use: beginner, Italian lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: semolina gnocchi in meat broth; curried shellfish stew; lamb and green bean stew with faro; fennel-scented pork stew; braised rapini and kale; whole chicken braised in trebbiano wine; veal and pepper stew. The downside to this book: too short, only 60 or so soups and stews – rest are accompaniments, etc. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents at the back. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 10. MICHAEL CHIARELLO’S FLAVORED OILS AND VINEGARS; 100 recipes for cooking with infused oils and vinegars (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 0-8118-5536-8, $23.95 paper covers) is a revision of two 1995/6 books (Flavored Oils and Flavored Vinegars). Chiarello is a California restaurant owner, and hosts shows on the Food Network. Here he has combined both books into one. Flavoured oils to Chiarello really means flavoured olive oils. There are not 100 recipes for oils and vinegars, just preps for using them. He uses both cold and warm infusion methods. He also uses plain, inexpensive olive oil for fusions, to allow the flavour of the herbs to dominate. He correctly notes “Tarragon does not work very well in oil except early in the spring when it is very sweet, otherwise it tends to taste bitter when infused.” The vinegars are usually fruit or herbal. There is a glossary and food buying guide, and US volume measurements are used throughout. Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers, home cooks who need a pantry. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pancetta, lettuce and tomato sandwich (Italian BLT); basil-garlic mayonnaise; tomato and gorgonzola salad with crispy onion rings; pastina risotto with roasted peppers and broccoli; mushroom hash; spicy tropical fruit salsa. The downside to this book: too many regular Italian recipes. The upside to this book: there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 11. BRAVE NEW WORLD (Mitchell Beazley, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 192 pages, ISBN 1-84533-185-0, $38.95 hard covers) is by Malcolm Gluck, author of the popular “Superplonk” articles, wine guides, and website (www.superplonk.com). He has written over two dozen books on wine, as well as some BBC television shows. The basic premise here is to explain why the wines of Australia, California, New Zealand, and South Africa taste the way they do. But when you get down to it, it is actually Australia that produces the fruitiest wines on the planet, and those are mainly in the under $20 category. New Zealand has been reckoned to be “cool climate”, and so are parts of South Africa. In fact, New Zealand and South Africa are what I’d call “bi-wines” – they can swing either way, between the New World fruit and the Old World terroir, producing wines that are distinctive in their New World or Old World orientation. California made fruit-driven wines, but was also egged on by Australian competition. It is all a matter of winemaking skills, and that is Gluck’s point: winemaking determines wine, not terroir. His models are “soul (winemaking) vs. soil (terroir)”. Sometimes it stands up, and sometimes it doesn’t. It all depends on the major personalities and winemakers, but it has been substantiated – at least in Gluck’s mind – by a paper presented at the Royal Economic Society in March 2005, which found that it was not terroir which determined the quality of a wine but the “winemaking technologies”. However, winemakers do run into problems when they try to imitate high end European wines (the B wines of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Barolo). And overall, there are more women winemakers in the New World than in the Old World. The book is arranged by country, region by region (23 for Oz, 7 for California): 54 pages on Oz, 38 pages in California, 40 on New Zealand, and 36 on South Africa. There is a directory with the names and addresses, phone numbers, website URLs, email addresses, and the like in a separate section at the end of each country’s chapter. Audience and level of use: winelovers, hospitality schools, wine schools, armchair travelers. Some interesting or unusual facts: The UK is the biggest wine drinking market in Europe. UK Wine sales are up 25% over the past 4 years, with most of this increase coming from Australia. Scandinavia also consumes vast quantities of Oz wine. The Teutonic sweet tooth? The downside to this book: Note that there is nothing on Ontario, New York, and not even the Pacific Northwest where many wines appear to be just as rich and ripe as California wines. Also, there are few specific tasting notes. The upside to this book: it is an entertaining read, with 150 photos -- and they are all indexed. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 12. THE BIG BOOK OF APPETIZERS (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 352 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4943-0, $27.95 paper covers) is by Meredith Deeds and Carla Snyder, both cooking school teachers. Deeds is also a food writer, while Snyder is chef de cuisine at the Western Reserve School of Cooking. Many of these are uncomplicated, basically for the home cook. There are menu suggestions and do ahead tips. There is a “Find It Fast” listing in chapter two, which divides it all into categories such as quick, vegetarian, “fork required”, freezer friendly, and spicy flavours. Appetizers here mean a wide range including dips, nibbles, salsa, spreads, tarts, dumplings, spring rolls, and skewers. In other words, mostly finger friendly hors d’oeuvre rather than sit down first course. US volume measurements, of course, but Chronicle Books seems to have a policy of putting an unpaged, unindexed, and unmentioned metric equivalents table at the very end of the material. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce; sweet and spicy sesame lamb meat balls; pizza with figs, goat cheese and walnuts; crispy scallops with pineapple chile salsa. The downside to this book: the italicized list of ingredients is slightly hard to read. Her pesto recipe has no pine nuts. The upside to this book: good database of recipes, modest price. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 13. TOM FITZMORRIS’S NEW ORLEANS FOOD; more than 225 of the City’s best recipes to cook at home (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 336 pages, ISBN 1-58479-524-7, $27.95 paper covers) is by the well-known New Orleans food writer and broadcaster. Half (or more) of the royalties from the book are being donated to Habitat for Humanity to aid in New Orleans’ recovery from Hurricane Katrina. Fitzmorris has had a 33-year career as a food writer: these are supposed to be the best recipes he has accumulated in his tenure. Of course, the emphasis is on home cooked creole and Cajun food, with lots of cook’s notes. There are plenty of preps dedicated to oysters, shrimp and crayfish, trout, breakfasts and brunches. The classics are all here too: boudin blanc, gumbos, fried catfish, red beans, rice, poorboys, muffuletta, beignets, pain perdu, and bread pudding. He has ingredient notes and mail order food sources from New Orleans. Audience and level of use: New Orleans lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mushroom and foie gras; Creole-Italian pot stickers; brisket and vegetable soup; blackened tuna; whole flounder stuffed with crabmeat; veal with white wine and vanilla butter; Cajun smothered duck. The downside to this book: the paper back may quickly wear out with use. The upside to this book: while he uses US weights and measures, there is a metric conversion chart. As well, there is a useful history of New Orleans food. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 14. SALT; a world history (Phoenix Audio, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, unabridged, 14 hours on 14 CDs, ISBN 1-59777-097-3, $59.95 set) is by Mark Kurlansky, author of “Cod” and other food articles in the New York Times and Harper’s. It was originally published in book form in 2002. It is also the definitive work of popular history, embracing the full scope of the panorama through the ages: economic, scientific, political, religious, and culinary materials. Salt is vital to humans, and salt has been a currency in many nations. It has been taxed, wars have been fought, and books written on the salt theme. Actor Scott Brick is the reader; his voice is a deep rumble, sometimes a mumble, very soothing and not rushed. Audience and level of use: food people, joggers and auto travelers. Some interesting or unusual facts: salt has been a terrifying necessity over the years. The downside to this CD: an insert card describing the topics would have been useful. The upside to this CD: fifteen recipes are included. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 15. LA PAELLA (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 0-8118-5251-2, $23.95 hard covers) is by Jeff Koehler, a magazine food and travel writer, who has lived in Spain for the past ten years. He discusses the origins, techniques, and regional variations, and includes a recipe for “original Valencia paella”. He also includes other rice dishes, such as arroz con lecho (rice pudding) and cazuelas. You can use different combos of ingredients, virtually unlimited, defined by meat, fish, poultry, vegetables plus rice. He talks about techniques and styles of service. Cazuela (casserole) versions are moister than paella; caldero (pot) versions are soupy. He has a US source list of imported ingredients (local Spanish rise is preferred) and equipment (paella pans, casseroles and pots), a bibliography, and a list of 15 restaurants in Spain where one can eat “authentic” paella. Audience and level of use: rice lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: there are 16 paellas, 12 other rice mains, and 2 rice desserts. The downside to this book: there are 20 scenic pictures, but that is all – the book needs more pictures of the plated food. The upside to this book: there is an index to both Spanish and English names, ingredients, and the name of the recipe. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 16. INFUSED (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 152 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4600-8, $24.95 hard covers) is by Susan Elia MacNeal, who has written about social graces in the past. Here are more than 100 recipes for infused liqueurs and cocktails. There are 30 infusions here (a base alcohol, usually brandy, vodka or rum, plus any of fruits, flowers, herbs, or spices). The solids are filtered out and the liquid is aged for a month or so. They make great host/hostess gifts. But of course, here, they are used in the prep of about 100 drink recipes. The reader is encouraged to play around and experiment, to mix and match, change garnishes, and the like. Typical infusions here embrace apple, apricot, berry, citrus, chocolate, coffee, tea, cucumber, rhubarb, pear, peach, pumpkin, watermelon, plus toasted nuts, spices (vanilla), and herbs (fennel, basil, rosemary). She has a sources listing for candied flowers or blueberry honeys, but these are all at US addresses. US weights and measures are used. This is a good idea book. Audience and level of use: bartenders, home booze makers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: le cognac aux truffe (1.5 ounce diced truffle with a bottle of XO); gazpacho liqueur (a lot like V8); apple pie martini; earl grey martini; provencal lemonade (lavender vodka); vanilla julep. The downside to this book: many of the concoctions may be illegal to sell in bars in Ontario – check first. The upside to this book: there is a metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 17. SMALL PLATES; appetizers as meals (Gibbs Smith, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 1-58685-781-9, $24.95 paper covers) is by Marguerite Marceau Henderson, a cookbook author, cooking school teacher, and former caterer. Any small plate servings allow customers to graze or sample through many different flavours. This is tapas-style cuisine, a little more upscale than the appetizers book noted above. Preps total about 125, half of the book above. The influences are mainly the Mediterranean basin, with excursions to the Caribbean and some of Southeast Asia. Products include meats, salads, pies, seafood, soups, tapas, antipasti, dim sum, and mezze. Bread is used as stuffing or to be stuffed. Colour photos are pretty good, and the measurements are all US. Audience and level of use: some complications make this an intermediate level book, useful for caterers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pancetta and white bean crostini; wild mushroom and Fontina bruschetta; asparagus cheese timbale; shrimp and leek bisque. The downside to this book: it lacks a metric equivalents conversion chart. Also, it is not noted that there are a lot of dishes to wash later, at least for the home cook. The caterer is used to a pile of dirties, and just takes them back to the shop. The upside to this book: large typefaces. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 18. GOURMET GARNISHES; creative ways to dress up your food (Sterling Publishing, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-4027- 1468-8, $21.95 paper covers) is by Mickey Baskett, a restaurant reviewer and editor. These are tricks of the trade for food presentation. He gives us the seven basic rules of garnishes. After that there are scores of ideas, for such as candied carrot curls, marbled sauces artfully poured (plus squeeze bottles), chocolate leaves, soup garnishes, marzipan fruit, rosemary skewers, pretty pats of butter and cheese, edible flowers, flavoured oils, smoked salmon or tomato roses, and chiffonade. He has an excellent section on tools and techniques, plus tips and shortcuts. He also has a variety of recipes that feature or are enhanced by garnishes, such as eggs baked in brioche or blue cheese stuffed dates. The chapters are arranged by type: veggie garnishes, fruit garnishes, sauces, butter and cheese, eggs, fish, and sweets. There are scores of coloured photos to show of the techniques. Audience and level of use: great for home cooks, useful for cooking schools and even restaurants can get a few pointers here. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: see above. The downside to this book: paper covers are sure to break. The upside to this book: there is a metric conversion chart. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 19. FASTER! I’M STARVING; 100 dishes in 25 minutes of less (Gibbs Smith, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 264 pages, ISBN 1-58685-795-9, $23.95 paper covers) is by Kevin Mills and Nancy Mills, a mother-and-son combo who have authored other books involving busy families. And 20. HOMEMADE IN A HURRY; more than 300 shortcut recipes for delicious home-cooked meals (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 368 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4899-X, $24.95 paper covers) is by Andrew Schloss, food writer and food industry consultant. Both books cover all courses. There are tips for techniques geared to speed, techniques for cutting very quickly, and for stocking pantry. Basic recipes employ canned or prepared foods, steak, chicken breasts, shrimp and scallops – whatever can cook quickly. If you buy semi- prepared food, not only will you pay more, but you’ll get additives in many cases. Unless you buy organic, of course. It is possible to buy properly prepared pre-washed salad greens and baby carrots, other pre- cut veggies, frozen chopped veggies, grated cheeses, pre-crushed garlic and ginger, sausages and cold cuts. Restaurants do it all the time. But you wouldn’t want a steady diet of it for yourself – save it for entertaining a large crowd. Other tips include producing smaller portions (they cook faster), creating emergency meals from the freezer (soups, pasta sauces, omelette stuffings). Typical recipes for 15 minutes or less include omelettes, ground turkey Thai-style, veal parmesan, cole slaw. Other recipes take 20, 25, 30 minutes or longer. There are notes on stocking a pantry, seasonings, what to have on hand, and so forth. But just read the labels. US measurements, of course. Audience and level of use: those who need quick or home cooked fast food. The downside to this book: no metric conversion charts. The upside to this book: the Mills book has an index by time, with page references. Quality/Price Rating: I’d give the nod to Schloss because he has 200 more recipes for only a buck more. 21. COD; a biography of the fish that changed the world (Phoenix Audio, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, unabridged, 7.5 hours on 7 CDs, ISBN 1-59777-098-1, $43.95 set) is by Mark Kurlansky, author of “Salt” and other food articles in the New York Times and Harper’s. This spoken word set is an unabridged reading of the James Beard Award winning book (Excellence in Food Writing). What makes this 1997 book so readable also makes it so listenable: the flow of the prose. He covers the Basque fishers, Chef Taillevent of the 14th century, Hannah Glasse the 18th century writer, and Alexandre Dumas. Log rollers have included Jacques Pepin, no mean feat. The reader is Richard M. Davidson, a TV actor with numerous audiobooks to his credit. His rich and sonorous baritone conveys the importance of cod. Audience and level of use: food people, fishers, those who enjoy a good listen while on the road or jogging. Some interesting or unusual facts: The cod economy is famous in Canada, just think of the Grand Banks. Also, think of the spice trade into Northern Europe with returning boats full of stockfish. The downside to this CD: an insert card of topics would have been useful. Also, I found some variance in the sound levels. The upside to this CD: there are some recipes from the past, uses of all kinds for cod, and word origins. Quality/Price Rating: 92. 22. 101 MARTINIS (John Wiley & Sons, 2006, 128 pages, ISBN 0-7645-9985- 2, $20.99 hard covers) is by Kim Haasarud, a writer for Maxim, Cosmopolitan, Wine Enthusiast, and event person at various film festivals and sports parties. These are actually recipes for nouveau martinis, beyond the usual gin or vodka. Thus, the book also includes rum, scotch, fruit infusions, liqueurs, ice cream, and herbal supplements. There are suggestions to pair martinis with foods that they’ll complement (salty, sweet, spicy, sour). Recipe number 7 is a Manhattan, number 9 is a Bloody Mary – and that’s when I got lost. Nice cocktails, but just cocktails, and not martinis: who is fooling who? Audience and level of use: beginners. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Taste and try this book before you buy. Number 11 is a sidecar, so don’t get derailed. The downside to this book: stretches the meaning of “martini:. Also, there is no index. Maybe the book is meant for flipping about and browsing. The upside to this book: for those who wish to extend their martini knowledge. Quality/Price Rating: 80 23. SALSAS AND TACOS (Gibbs Smith, 2006; ISBN 1-4236-0015-0, $16.95 paper covers) was originally published in 2000 as two small books. Here they are reissued together. The recipes come from Susan Curtis (owner and director of the Santa Fe Cooking School), Kathi Long, Daniel Hoyer, and R.Allen Smith. US volume measurements are used, and there is a US resources list which includes New Mexico, Texas, New York, and California (but not Colorado). Audience and level of use: cooking school aficionados, Mexican food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: adobo pork tacos with grilled pineapple; pistachio and bing cherry salsa; corn and anasazi bean salsa; calabacitas tacos; spinach tacos with potato, poblano chile and cream; papaya and tomatillo salsa. The downside to this book: lacks metric conversion charts. The upside to this book: small enough for gift-giving to a hostess. Quality/Price Rating: 87. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JULY 2006 =========================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * WINE BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. THE WINES OF AUSTRIA (Mitchell Beazley, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 200 pages, ISBN 1-84533-132-X, $38.95 hard covers) is by Philipp Blom, an expert writer in the area of Austria and Austrian wines. It was originally published by Faber and Faber in 2000; here, it has been fully revised and updated as part of the series, “Classic Wine Library”. It is the 20th book in this series. Austria has a rich and known history in winemaking, going back to before the Roman times. Blom covers all this plus the modern era through the major regions of the Burgenland, Wachau, Styria, Kremstal, Kamptal. In many ways Austria is still recovering from the wine scandals of the past; I still get asked about it. All that is wine under the bridge as the country soldiers on. There are chapters on winemaking techniques, grape varieties, wine laws and quality wine categories, vintage notes, and about 150 or so grower profiles, such as those on Paul Achs, Erich Giefing, and Berthold and Erich (Undhof) Salomon. Blom, as do the other authors in the series, covers the country region by region, with a variety of sketch maps to the wine-producing areas. For each region, he describes the leading estates and winemakers (interviews, tasting notes, production figures, soils, grapes used, vintages, phone numbers and addresses). There is a glossary and a bibliography (including the 1979 Hallgarten classic). Audience and level of use: Austrian wine lovers, reference libraries, schools of hospitality, wine schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Austria is a small wine- producing country: it has as much wine as the Loire Valley, and about half of what Gallo produces. 36% of the wine is from the Gruner Veltliner white varietal, followed by 9% from Zweigelt (red), 6% from Chardonnay, and 5% from Blaufrankisch (red). The downside to this book: the maps are minimal. The upside to this book: It is uptodate and certainly useful Quality/Price Rating: 90. * FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 2. GEOFFREY ZAKARIAN’S TOWN/COUNTRY; 150 recipes for life around the table (Clarkson Potter, 2006; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 1-4000-5468-0, $55 hard covers) is by a former chef of Le Cirque. In 2001, he opened Town in Manhattan and Country in 2005. David Gibbons is a focusing food writer and co-author of several other cookbooks. “Town” is urbane and elegant, while “Country” is homier and hearty. He offers two different and distinct treatments for 64 ingredients (not 65 as promised), so there are 150 recipes in all (which includes some “basics” for saucing). Principal ingredients include such examples as cod, acorn squash, arugula, blue crabs, grapefruit, ham, cheese, cherries, peas, pork, rabbit, red snapper, quail. The sources and resources list is all US, as are the weights and measures. Audience and level of use: a restaurant chef book, weightlifters (this is a heavy book which means only fit young cooks need buy it). Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beignets or whole anchovies (town) and bagna cauda (country); shinshu-apple puree (town) and apple cider soup (country); fennel bisque with tomato-olive relish (town) and fennel gratin with gruyere (country). The downside to this book: no metric conversion charts. It also weighs a lot. I am also not sure that skate or white asparagus would qualify as a product with both town and country designations. Each is both definitely town. The upside to this book: great idea, useful recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 89. 3. DONA TOMAS; discovering authentic Mexican cooking (Ten Speed Press, 2006, 216 pages, ISBN 1-58008-604-7, $38.95 hard covers) is by Thomas Schnetz and Dona Savitsky, now co-owners and co-operators of the Oakland restaurant. Mike Wille is the focusing food writer and chef. These 90 recipes come from the resto, and cover breakfast, lunch, salads, sides, dinners, desserts, and drinks. This is top notch regional Mexican cooking, as influenced by Diana Kennedy. The pantry section of this book is pretty extensive, and there are plenty of cook’s notes. All the weights and measures are US, as is the resource list. Audience and level of use: celebrity chef collectors, restaurant cook book lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chiles rellenos vegetales (zucchini and corn); tamales dulces; tamales de bacalao; crème fraiche cake with blackberries; pozole de jaiba (crab); beet salad with blood oranges and queso fresco. The downside to this book: why are there extensive acknowledgements that go on and on? There are no metric conversion tables. The upside to this book: Mexican terms are indexed. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 4. DISHES FROM THE WILD HORSE DESERT; Norteno cooking of South Texas (John Wiley, 2006, 273 pages, ISBN 0-7645-5892-7, $38.99 hard covers) is by Melissa Guerra, whose family has lived in this Texas region since 1791. She has had PBS cooking shows and has written cookbooks, and now runs a Mexican cooking equipment and food source store. This region covers south of San Antonio and west of Corpus Christi. The food is based on Norteno cooking (Northern Mexico) with influences of German and Anglo settlers. There are 120 recipes, plus stories, memories and memoirs, sidebars and photos. These are the ‘original versions” of chile con carne, fajitas, enchiladas, refried beans. She has a good recipe for making your own beef jerky (machacado) and grinding corn meal. There is even a bibliography for further reading. Audience and level of use: Mexican and regional food lovers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: butter quail; roasted goat; capirotada (Lenten bread pudding); chorizo con huevo; seared tuna with grilled salsa; pan de polvo. The downside to this book: there are no metric conversion tables The upside to this book: Spanish names are indexed. This is a pretty fair regional cookbook. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 5. WINES OF ITALY New and revised edition (Mitchell Beazley, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 224 pages, ISBN 1-84533-215-6, $19.95) is by Michele Shah. It was first published in 1983, with regular revisions through 2002. Burton Anderson, who first crafted the book in 1983, had been widely acknowledged as a leading specialist in Italian wines; he had lived in Tuscany for over 20 years. Michele Shah takes over with this edition; she is a UK wine writer and consultant living in Italy. The layout is in double columns. In common with other Beazley wine guides, this one used to be pocket-sized, but now it is slightly larger than many pockets. There is a lot of material about terroir, the appellations and the grapes, the growers and the merchants, wine and food matching. Equally valuable is the discussion on vintages. The book has been arranged by direction, from north (Valle d’Aosta) to south (Sicily) in 20 regions. She says that there have been new changes and achievements in Asti and in Maremma (Southern Tuscany). The vast majority of producers have come out with one or two new wines in the past two years, and few have withdrawn any from the market. These new wines appear to be mostly Syrah, Chardonnay, and blends with indigenous varieties (both with minority and majority components). Producers, with addresses and phone numbers, are listed. Over 700 producers, 350 DOCs, and more than 2000 wines are covered. There are line maps, tables, and an index. Audience and level of use: a good reference book for the Italian wine lover, as well as for the hospitality trade schools. Some interesting or unusual facts: “Ever more producers of high-quality wine in Italy prefer to market some or all of their range under the more liberal lesser IGT designation” The downside to this book: no real TNs. (tasting notes) The upside to this book: it is always available and regularly revised; it has been a must-have authoritative classic for more than twenty years. Quality/Price Ratio: 90. 6. EATING OUTDOORS; cooking and entertaining in the open air (Ryland Peters & Small, 2006; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84597-132-9, $34.95 hard covers) is by Lindy Wildsmith, a UK cookbook author and food teacher. It is divided into clear cut sections dealing with grilling and BBQ, picnics, family (large groups, brunches, lunches), elegant al fresco, and drinks. Many of the dishes are interchangeable with other sections. She gives great stress with organization, but – in common with other outdoors books – there is little material on cleaning up. There are about 100 recipes, including the basics of relishes, breads, soups, bruschetta, crostini, etc. While she uses US volume measurements, there is a metric conversion chart on p.144. Audience and level of use: basic, useful for ideas. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sesame sweet potato packages; aromatic pork burger in pita bread; Sicilian-style lamb chops; Catalan salad with tuna and aioli; new potato, smoked turkey and chive salad; chicken, ham and mushroom pies; caramelized vegetable tarte tatin. The downside to this book: there are lost of other outdoors books, this is a competitive field. The upside to this book: it has been some time since I’ve seen a ground pork recipe. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 7. MY LIFE IN FRANCE (Random House Audio, 2006, 5 hours, 4 CDs, ISBN 0- 7393-2526-4, $39.95) is by the late Julia Child with Alex Prud’homme. She, of course, is the multiple award winning author of many cookbooks and TV personality (The French Chef). He’s a relative of her late husband Paul Child. The printed memoir deals with her years in France, where – as a young bride -- she became enraptured with French food (1948 onwards). It also deals with her early life with Paul. She documented her changes from a non-French speaking Californian to a conversant Francophile, dealing with local farmers and the Cordon Bleu cooking school. This is the world of food in the 1950s, especially France in the 1950s. She wrote most of it through her diaries and memoirs, and Prud’homme (who attended to her in her last months) pulled it all together, coupled with his talks with her. This is a warm, loving book, sure to be appreciated by any food lover. It has been abridged by Robert Hack (surely an unfortunate surname for this business) and read by Flo Salant Greenberg, who has done numerous theatre works in New York. Currently, she is also the director of the Actors Workshop, NYC. She has a sweet but low voice, with the occasional wobble at the end of a line – good for listening for an hour or so at a time. As is common with many audiobooks these days, there are stops every four minutes or so. And also there are no scene notes, table of contents, or indexes for easy retrieval. Most of this is not needed with a work of fiction (save for short stories). But they are extremely useful for non-fiction and for memoirs. How much would it cost to insert a card listing the progression of the tracks? If you want to take notes or repeat the hearing of a track, you’ll have to jot down the CD and track number in order to return to it. Audience and level of use: any lover of food and/or Julia Child. Some interesting or unusual facts: The descriptions of the French character are really extraordinary. The downside to this CD set: it is an abridgement – for a few dollars more they could have run the whole book. For one thing, they wouldn’t have to pay a fee to the abridger. The upside to this CD set: if sales are good, then maybe we’ll see more food and wine memoirs being released. There IS a market here. Quality/Price Rating: it is only $27.95 US, and you may be able to find it online at a cheaper price. $39.95 is a bit stiff for Canada. I’d give it a 90. 8. NEVER TRUST A SKINNY COOK; Huey’s culinary travelogue (Allen & Unwin, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 293 pages, ISBN 1-74114-692- 5, $40.95 hard covers) is by Iain Hewitson, an Australian food writer, TV chef, chef/restaurateur. This is his fifth book. There are stories from his travels to Bali, Thailand, Mauritius, New Zealand, and within Australia. And he has incorporated cultural notes to the 200 recipes. In addition, there is a glossary and suggestions for substitutions in the ingredients. There is a fairly good selection of recipes from the Pacific or Southeast Asia, all sourced as to origin (a restaurant here, a farm there). The arrangement is by course, with minimal instructions for each prep (this is good for regular folk). And, of course, there are lots of seafood and poultry dishes here. The preps have both Imperial and metric weights and measurements for each ingredient. Audience and level of use: Ozzies, travelers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: vegetable bouillabaisse; rice, ginger and green vegetable soup; pork and lime patties with chili sauce; fennel and mushroom salad; pot roasted chicken with lemon and harissa broth; sticky rice pudding with palm sugar syrup and grilled bananas. The downside to this book: two separate indexes to the recipes and to the travel stuff. Why bother? Just the recipes, please. The upside to this book: in Oz-style, it is the usual male gung-ho of enthusiasm. Quality/Price Rating: 81. 9. FLAVORS OF TUSCANY; recipes from the heart of Italy (Ryland Peters & Small, 2006; distr. T. Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 1-84597-144-2, $34.95 hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a well-traveled food writer and teacher specializing in Italian cuisine. She has authored at least six other books on Italian food. This book was photographed at the La Casellaccia school in Val d’Orcia, Tuscany. There are also photos of the surrounding area, farms, markets, restaurants, bars, museums, and the like. So it is like a “week at a cooking school”, with photo demos and classic dishes. The selection of regional dishes is arranged in meal order (antipasti, soups, pasta, secondi, sides, and dolci). She has short essays on local ingredients such as olives and olive oil, meats of white cattle or fennel salami or wild boar, sheep cheese (pecorino), beans, mushrooms, and wine including Vin Santo. Many dishes can also be varied with different sauces and pestos (recipes furnished). There is a resources list and website URLs for Italian and US mail orders. While US volume measurements are used for the recipe ingredients, there is a metric conversion t=chart on p.157. Audience and level of use: travelers to Tuscan cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: anchovies marinated in lemon; pancetta and fennel puffs; la ribollita soup; chestnut and pancetta soup; pandiramerino (rosemary, sultana, and olive oil bread); fennel sausage risotto. The downside to this book: the shrimp in risotto sauce recipe calls for chickpea pasta (recipe is furnished), but the photo clearly shows only whole chickpeas in the pan, and no pasta anywhere. The upside to this book: the index covers both the Italian and the English name of the plate, as well as the ingredient. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 10. MAGNOLIAS; authentic southern cuisine (Wyrick & Co., 2006; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 0-941711-87-0, $38.95 hard covers) is by Donald Brickman, a chef specializing in contemporary lowcountry cuisine. This is the revision and updating of recipes from his first book (1995) on the South Carolina restaurant Magnolias. His resto was one of the first of its kind in the deep south, emphasizing fresh and local ingredients. He has added 50 new recipes, and has modified many recipes, not all for the better (=healthier). For example, he has replaced chicken broth in a grits recipe with heavy cream and butter. It may taste better, but the trend today is for lighter foods. Brickman’s major topics concern the southern pantry, the courses, and the US resources. Weights and measures are all US by volume. Audience and level of use: celebrants of restaurant chefs, deep south cuisine. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cornmeal-fried oysters with jalapeno and lime aioli; pasta with smoked bacon, sun-dried tomatoes, blue cheese and pepper cream sauce; mahi-mahi soft tacos with black beans and rice; fried buttermilk chicken breasts; chocolate chip pecan pie with bourbon sauce; smoked pork shoulder, BBQ sauce, crackling cream biscuits. The downside to this book: no metric table of equivalents. Also, the book is being marketed as a sequel to his 1995 book, while it is actually a revision with new recipes. The upside to this book: the large typeface is a boon. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 11. FARMER JOHN’S COOKBOOK; the real dirt on vegetables (Gibbs Smith, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 360 pages, ISBN 1-4236-0014-2, $38.95 paper covers) is by John Peterson and staff at his Angelic Organics, one of the largest CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farms in the US – more than 1200 families in the Chicago area receive a weekly delivery of vegetables and herbs from this place. In some ways, the book is an engaging polemic, in support of the Slow Food Movement, biodynamics, and organics. There are textural sections – “food for thought” -- by nutritionists and philosophers (Rudolf Steiner, Andrew Lorand, Dr. Thomas Cowan, and Louise Frazier) and even farmhands. Angelic Organics has been the subject of a documentary, “The Real Dirt on Farmer John.” Thirty-five fresh veggies are covered through 225 recipes, with suggestions for long-term storage, freezing and canning. His approach is, of course, seasonal. Each veggie is also described with complementary herbs and spices, and “partners” (best foods to go with it). The appendices cover vegetable identification charts and illustrations. You can get more at www.angelicorganics.com. Audience and level of use: the serious committed “zero foot printer” but also the converted. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spinach with yellow split peas, hot pepper sauce, rutabaga and pear puree, spicy coconut pumpkin, Choi salad with fruit, orange and mint punch. The downside to this book: while US weights and measures are used, there are NO metric conversion tables. The upside to this book: there are sections of colour photos of farming and vegetables. Quality/Price Rating: 87. 12. THE GL DIET FOR DUMMIES (John Wiley, 2006, 235 pages, ISBN 0-470- 02753-3, $21.99 paper covers) is by Nigel Denby and Sue Baic, co- authors of “Nutrition for Dummies”. And 13. NEED TO KNOW? GI & GL DIET (Collins, 2006, 192 pages, ISBN 0-00- 721991-1, $19.95 paper covers) is one of a British series for beginners, like the Dummies in the US. Text is by Kate Santon, who is not identified. All of the authors are British, even the Dummy ones. Both books seek to use the Glycemic Index (GI) as a base for creating a Glycemic Load Diet. The GI (as everybody must know by now) is the rate at which food is absorbed into the bloodstream as glucose. Low is good, high is bad. The Glycemic Load (GL) is basically the GI times how much you eat of the ingredient. Thus, one tablespoon of white rice (its GI is a high 90) is not going to kill you, but two cups might. So pacing and quantity are keys here. The GL is dependent on how much you eat. The Dummy book ranges from “no carbs” to “low carbs” to “slow carbs”. Slow release carbs control glucose levels and satisfy hunger. The Dummy book, as with all Dummy books, has copious notes and lots of hand holding. They stress menu planning and portion control. There are chapters on how to dine out with ease and comfort (e.g., Indian, Chinese, pizzeria, Greek, Mexican, Spanish foods). Chapters cover breakfasts, lunches, dinners, suppers, entertaining, desserts, and snacks (which are really a no-no). The 70 recipes have variations and nutrient analyses (calories, protein, carbs, fats, fibre, and sodium). The Need to Know book is a bit more explicit on the GL per portion. It says that while you an lose weight, you should at least be able to keep your blood sugar levels under control. So the book is not being hyped as weight reduction. There are only 26 recipes, but they form a core. There are listings of food arranged by high, low and medium GL/GI, but nothing is expressed in terms of numbers. These foods are arranged by food group (bakery, beans and pulses, fruit, meat and poultry, nuts and seeds, pasta, rice, veggies), with carb levels, fibre, calories, protein, and fat content expressed for each. Santon also deals with alcohol consumption. There is a bibliography and a list of UK associations. For more details about the GI and GL, visit www.glycaemicindex.com. Audience and level of use: dieters. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Overcooked or leftover pasta and rice have a HIGHER GI than the al dente versions. My own personal approach is to try to eat nothing over 25 on the GI. The downside to this book: the Need to Know series is geared to the UK, but this may sit well with Canadians. The upside to this book: each recipe has both US or Imperial and metric measurements for the ingredients. The Dummy book has a list of the 10 best GL websites, although most are UK-based. The Need to Know series all have colour photos. Quality/Price Rating: 84 for the Need to Know and 86 for the Dummy book. 14. KITCHEN SENSE; more than 600 recipes to make you a great home cook (Clarkson Potter, 2006; distr. Random House Canada, 516 pages, ISBN 1- 4000-4906-7, $50 hard covers) is by Mitchell Davis, director of communications at the James Beard Foundation, and a cookbook writer. The classic 600 recipes here are meant for the home cook; they are supposed to be what Americans are eating now in their lives (e.g., brined poultry, mac and cheese variations, ethnic fusion) and thus what they should be cooking at home. There are plenty of cooks notes, tips and advice, as well as an indication of advance preparations. Prep times, cooking times, and total timings (in case you cannot add) are also given. Each recipe also ends with a tag on what to do with any leftovers. Everything is laid out in double columns. While these are all reliable and fundamental recipes, you’ll need an extensive larder- pantry. All weights and measures are in US terms. Audience and level of use: home cooks. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: garlicky walnut and potato spread; Moroccan-spiced meatballs with preserved lemons; jerk chicken; potato gnocchi; green tomato caponata; chocolate cheesecake. The downside to this book: there are no wine recommendations – don’t we drink wine at home now? Also, there are no metric conversion charts for the Canadian or international market. The upside to this book: nice concept, tidy package. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 15. SOUTHWEST FLAVORS; Santa Fe School of Cooking (Gibbs Smith, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 1-58685-697-9, $44.95 hard covers) is by founder Susan Curtis. The School has been operating since 1989. Her co-author is the school manager, Nicole Curtis Ammerman. This is a follow-up book to the previous “Santa Fe School of Cooking Cookbook”. There are newer recipes and techniques, and the emphasis is on lighter foods – 100 preps in all. Her typical classes are described: she covers Mexican, Spanish, Native American, New Mexican, and Southwestern US cuisine. Many of the preps come from some of the area’s notable chefs, such as James Caruso of El Farol and Eddie Lyons of the Pink Adobe and Galisteo Inn. The theme and foundation, of course, is the chile. There are glossary notes on equipment and larders, a bibliography for further reading, and a directory of US sources for food ingredients. Only US weights and measures are given without any metric conversion charts. For more details, go to www.santafeschoolofcooking.com. Audience and level of use: celebrity chef followers, Santa Fe lovers, cooking schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: blue corn tamales with calabacitas filling; sunset soup with red pepper (black bean soup and sweet corn bisque); nopales and golden beet salad; tumbleweed of sweet potato; rice tumbado. The downside to this book: “about” is used in the index for 33 items, under “A”, e.g. about coriander, p29; about nopales, p68. This is dreadful – where was the copy editor? Ingredients should be listed with ingredients. The upside to this book: large typeface Quality/Price Rating: 83. 16. CLUB CUISINE; cooking with a master chef (John Wiley, 2007 [sic], 274 pages, ISBN 0-471-74171-X, $64.99 hard covers) is by Edward G. Leonard, captain and team manager of the ACF Culinary Team USA, and Executive Chef of the Westchester Country Club. The 150 recipes here deal with corporate food for private clubs, where entertaining (clients or social) is all-important. It is for, for the most part, hearty food, heavy on “guy” stuff such as pasta, beef (there is a separate chapter for beef), seafood and sandwiches. Many have trendy sauces and reductions. But it is also a modern take on regular club food. For modernists and lighter eaters (=women), he has a section called “trilogy” which are tasting menus for clubs or events. These are dishes, usually rectangular in shape, with three spins on the same ingredient. There is salmon three ways (roasted, poached, grilled), lobster (tempura, cassoulet, creamy stew), summer asparagus, desserts (a trio of pear preps) and so forth. This is useful. The new version of Caesar Salad uses iceberg lettuce (is this the Titanic Club?) as a base. Panini are described as from different parts of Italy, stressing some local variations, such as the Emiliana panini with prosciutto. Breakfasts and brunches have their up-tempo takes too, for club members who stay overnight or family brunches. Audience and level of use: club managers, caterers looking for ideas, hospitality schools. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: apple cider vinegar, sports house Reuben, chicken and pear montechristo, poached shrimp, pan-seared duck, sautéed lamb with eggplant. The downside to this book: once again, all the weights and measures are US with NO table of metric equivalents. Wiley, as an international publisher, should know better than this. The index is simply atrocious: only the names of the dishes are in alphabetical order. There are NO listings for ingredients. You won’t find anything under “spinach”: you have to go to “warm spinach”, and who would think of that?? The upside to this book: there are menu and recipe contributions from four other club chefs. The photos also give great presentation ideas. And show many different shapes for the plates. Quality/Price Rating: a curate’s egg – 75 for individuals, 85 for those who can deduct the cost as a business expense. 17. THE LEVER HOUSE COOKBOOK (Clarkson Potter, 2006; distr. Random House Canada, 240 pages, ISBN 1-4000-9780-0, $65 hard covers) is by Dan Silverman and Joann Cianciulli. He was the executive chef, and she’s a food writer and culinary TV producer. The building – Lever House – was built in 1952, and it was one of the most stylish buildings in New York city. It was also one of the city’s first glass skyscrapers. The restaurant opened in 2003, 51 years later, and incorporated many of the original principles in its design. There is a 20-page history by Matt Tyranauer of Vanity Fair, along with photos of the time period. The 125 recipes seem to come from off the menus. Sections deal with raw foods, appetizers, entrees, grills, sides and desserts. There are also many cook’s notes. The resource list is mainly New York city, and mainly websites. All weights and measures are US. Audience and level of use: restaurant cookbook collectors, fans of Lever House Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: trout gravlax with cucumber- chive relish; chilled sorrel soup with smoked trout; white bean and chorizo soup with poached egg; grilled tuna with marinated provencal veggies; halibut with roasted baby beets, cipollini onions and fines herbes; pork chops with cipollini onions. The downside to this book: there are no metric table of equivalents or conversion charts. The upside to this book: very much a lavish picture book. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 18. THE HEIRLOOM TOMATO COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 132 pages, ISBN 0-8118-5355-1, $21.95 paper covers) grew out of the Heirloom Tomato Festival, which has been hosted and supported by Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates. They have assembled a fine collection of text, recipes and photographs. Wine notes come from their Wine Center, and they are generic by grape variety and the weight of the dish. There is only one photo of a K-J label. Heirloom tomatoes are a hot topic in the food world, so the book is timely. There are hundreds of varieties, in all shapes and sizes and colorations. K-J itself cultivates over 200 varieties at their tasting place, and all are listed here. The book gives all manner of tips on choosing, growing and storing tomatoes, including how to save seeds from Heirloom Tomatoes (even though there is a US sources list for ordering your own seeds). There is text on the history of the rediscovery of these varieties, although most emphasis is on the top twenty varieties (Cherokee purple, big white pinkstripe, black brandywine, green zebra, pantano romanesco). Each of the twenty is illustrated with photos and a written description. Preps use US volume measurements, Audience and level of use: tomato lovers Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bloody mary shrimp salsa; tomato shortcakes with star anise syrup; black plum tomato marmalade; savory bread pudding; chilled creole tomato soup with tapenade. The downside to this book: there are no metric conversion charts. Most recipes do not specify varieties, so almost any kind of local tomato can be used. The upside to this book: there are interesting photos of the festival event. Quality/Price Rating: 88. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS --- WINE AND FOOD BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JUNE 2006 =========================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ALLEZ CUISINE !! * FOOD BOOKS OF THE MONTH ! * ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. WHAT TO EAT (North Point Press, 2006; distr. Douglas & McIntyre, 611 pages, ISBN 0-86547-704-3, $37.95 hard covers) is by Marion Nestle, a nutrition professor at New York University. She has received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the James Beard Foundation, and authored the books “Food Politics” (2002) and “Safe Food” (2003). In fact, this current book came out of the lecture series she did after the Food Politics book came out: most of the Q & A afterwards were on the topic of “so, what do YOU eat?” …And thus a book developed. She’s known as a political agitator for quality food; indeed, she’s been threatened by the US sugar industry for her disparaging remarks. Her book is arranged by supermarket aisles (produce, dairy, meat, fish, beverages, centre aisles) and she has commentaries on each product. Essentially, she tears apart agribusiness. Her principles are simple enough: read the label and then see through the label (connect the dots). Eat more and exercise more. Eat veggies, cut junk food. Choose local produce (it is not picked unripe). Buy organic to avoid the –cides (pesticides, herbicides). Thus, this is a book on how to shop, with scads of nutritional information along the way. There are copious endnotes and a thorough index. The US regulations and prices used here are similar to Canada, so the book is useful domestically. It has been my experience, though, that the US equivalent to packaged items for sale in both Canada and the US are a tad sweeter (I’ve read the labels). She has respect for the GI and the GI diet: we can all relate to numbers, and in this case, the lower the better. You’ll need the GI if you have any kind of insulin resistance, pre-hypertension, low cholesterol ratios. As she says, “The choices you make about food are as much about the kind of world you want to live in as they are about what to have for dinner.” There is much more at www.foodpolitics.com. And 2. REAL FOOD; what to eat and why (Bloomsbury, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 344 pages, ISBN 1-59691-144-1, $29.95 hard covers) is by Nina Planck, who grew up on a Virginia vegetable farm. Later, she opened a dozen farmers’ markets in the UK, wrote “The Farmers’ Market Cookbook”, had a British TV series on local foods, and ran Greenmarket (a large network of farmers’ markets in the US). She comes from the farmers’ market side. Her main principle is to eat traditional food grown locally, and eat in moderation. She too examines agribusiness, and complains that it sacrifices taste and nutrition for efficiency. Our distorted diets leave us fat and undernourished. She says that farmers markets are the key: you should be able to eat eggs, cream, butter, grass-fed beef, roast chicken with the skin, lard, and cocoa butter. And she blames a lot of things on highly refined corn syrup. Her chapters, like Nestle, follow an arrangement at the farmers market: milk-butter-cheese, meat, fish, fruit and vegetables, and then fats. In her appendix, there are websites and phone numbers for locating real food, arranged by type of product. There is a bibliography for further reading (but no mentions of Nestle’s books), a list of organizations such as Slow Food, endnotes, and a glossary. Planck’s book seems more “memoirish” than Nestle’s, a bit more personal, and thus cozier in bed at night. There is much more at www.ninaplanck.com Audience and level of use: the concerned eater. Some interesting or unusual facts: from Nestle – “The shelf life of a potato chip by weight is 10 times that of a potato.” “Snack calories account for 25% of all US calorie intake”. “Assume all fish are farmed unless labeled wild.” From Planck, “Real food tastes better and real food is old food: real milk is grass-fed, raw, and unhomogenized, with the cream on top. Real lard is not hydrogenated.” The downside to this book: Nestle covers a lot of ground, and may seem daunting. Planck is more of an overview, and not focused on specific industrial foods as Nestle is. The upside to this book: both books are readable, user-friendly, and priced within reason. Nestle is more concerned with public-education of nutrition and working within the supermarket context. Planck wishes to avoid the supermarket altogether, urging us to shop at farmers’ markets instead. Quality/Price Rating: given their size and reference value, I’d give Nestle a 95 and Planck a 93. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. THE BISTROS, BRASSERIES AND WINE BARS OF PARIS; everyday recipes from the real Paris (William Morrow, 2006, 214 pages, ISBN 0-06-059073- 4, $32.95 hard covers) is by Daniel Young, a former restaurant critic for the New York Daily News and freelance magazine food writer. He covers 36 establishments, some open 24/7. Each is profiled at the back with name, address, phone number, Metro stop, page reference to recipes, and some commentary text. Otherwise, this is a pretty good collection of classic simple and hearty basic food as offered by some Parisian eateries: plats du jour with vins ordinaries. “Wine bars” have more upscale wines than the other place, but otherwise the food is about the same. Audience and level of use: bistro food lovers, Parisian travelers and tourists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: endive tatin with goat cheese; corn meal crisps with oven-roasted tomatoes and tapenade; salmon terrine with leeks and pesto; salt cod and avocado brandade; pan-orated duck breast; cocotte of spring veggies. The downside to this book: too much detail on describing the differences between brasseries and bistros. Does anybody care? The upside to this book: French names in the recipes are indexed as well. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 4. GRILLED TO PERFECTION; recipes from the television series Licence to Grill (McArthur & Company, 2006, 231 pages, ISBN 1-55278-568-8, $ paperback) has been assembled by the team of producer Chris Knight, Chef Rob Rainford of the Food Network Canada’s popular show, and Tyler J. Smith. Kerry Galvin, Knight, and Kathy Doherty developed the recipes. Smith orchestrated the results. Covered are charcoal, gas, smokers, and safety concerns. Preps concern beef, pork, lamb, poultry, seafood, veggies, and a short section on desserts. There are also ideas for lots of sauces, marinades and relishes. One of the more important sections details tools and cleanup. Each of the 100 recipes has weights and measures in both Imperial and metric forms for each ingredient. Audience and level of use: basic BBQ book. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: smoked guacamole, grilled vegetable quesadillas, pulled pork picnic roast, slow-smoked Thai ribs, pancetta and potato package, lemon pepper Cornish hens. The downside to this book: lots of white space which could have been put to better use. The upside to this book: large typeface and handholding. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 5. THE COOKBOOK FOR MEN WHOSE WIVES DON’T COOK (BookSurge, 2006, 147 pages, ISBN 1-4196-2242-0, $18.99 US paper covers) is by Christopher Hamilton, an obvious pseudonym since he lives in Burlington. Here’s a basic no-nonsense book written with a sense of humour, but marred by a lack of indexing for the ingredients. It is meat-laden, for these are the easiest items to cook (beef, BBQ, poultry, pork, ham, stir fry), plus pasta, salads, side dishes, desserts, and breakfasts. For proper cooking and serving, you’ll need prep and menu planning. Organizing skills are useful and important. Audience and level of use: beginners and bachelors, and those who simply do not or can not or will not cook. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “Meat good. Fire good. Nothing in here is fancy.” “Women love men who cook” – to which I can add “cook anything”. The downside to this book: no index to the ingredients, and too much blank space. May be useful to add your own markings. The upside to this book: there is a conversion table of weights and measures. Humour and hand-holding is always useful. Quality/Price Rating: 80. 6. TASTE; recipes from Prince Edward Island’s best restaurants (Nimbus Publishing, 2006, 82 pages, ISBN 1-55109-570-X, $22.95 paper covers) is by Andrew Sprague, a free lance food writer living on the Island. This is a cook’s tour through P.E.I., with 28 recipes. Both Imperial and metric weights and measures are used for each ingredient listed in the recipe, which is a good thing. Audience and level of use: PEI lovers, armchair travelers, tourists. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lobster-stuffed chicken (from the Pilot House), potato pie with maple bacon sauce (PEI Preserve Company Restaurant), savoury meat pie (Clow’s Red and White), grilled mackerel (Dayboat), bisque mussel (Flex Mussels), seafood lattice (Claddagh Oyster House). The downside to this book: no index, and too many non-food pictures. The upside to this book: charming, tourist-driven. Quality/Price Rating: 84. 7. START YOUR OWN RESTAURANT AND FIVE OTHER FOOD BUSINESSES. Second edition. (Entrepreneur Press, 2006; distr. McGraw-Hill, 255 pages, ISBN 1-599180-20-0, $19.95 paper covers) is by Jacquelyn Lynn, who, unfortunately, is not identified. There are over 900,000 restaurants in the U.S. (and at least a million in North America). About 100,000 were started in the past five years. $500 billion is spent on eating out in the U.S. Lynn concentrates on the vital aspects of planning and location, and then proceeds to deal with capitalization, equipment and inventory control, legal structures, sanitation, payroll management, and marketing. Her scope covers the restaurant, pizzeria, coffeehouse, delicatessen, bakery and catering. Much material comes from her interviews with owners and others in the business, She has “Stat Fact” sidebars, such as “More than 65 percent of restaurant customers agree that food served at their favorite restaurant provides flavour and taste sensations they cannot easily duplicate at home” – Well, duh… Her work concludes with a resources bibliography that includes music licensing agencies, associations and consultants, and credit card services. Audience and level of use: hospitality schools, anyone interested in opening a food business. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “The three primary reasons why food service businesses fail – undercapitalization, poor inventory control, poor payroll management.” The downside to this book: short and basic, needs more case studies. The upside to this book: use the index for first retrieval of data. There is an informative glossary. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 8. THE DESIGN MIX; bars, cocktails & style (Wiley, 2006, 164 pages, ISBN 0-470-02633-2, $38.99) is by Howard Watson, a London UK-based drinks writer specializing in bars and design. He profiles 27 top bar and restaurants interiors, with illustrations (over 200 photos). The book was produced in collaboration with Bombay Sapphire Gin, which of course is the specified gin of choice here. Toronto has Blowfish (read all about it). Other cities include Tokyo, San Francisco, Singapore, Berlin, Milan, Miami, and Paris with one each. There are two glamour places in New York, and London (according to Brit writer Watson) has six. The directory data includes name, address, phone number, and web site, plus the name of the designer and Watson’s own comments. There are pix of the place and a picture of the designer. Audience and level of use: designers’ portfolio. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: These are award-winning bars. The downside to this book: a specified gin The upside to this book: good quality photos. Quality/Price Rating: 84 9. A HISTORY OF KITCHEN GARDENING. Revised updated edition. (Frances Lincoln, 2005; distr. Raincoast, 304 pages, ISBN 0-7112-2566-6, $35.95 paper covers) is by Susan Campbell, who had published this book a decade ago. Its original title then was “Charleston Kedding: a history of kitchen gardening”. Most of this book is the story of the kitchen garden at Hampshire’s Pyewell Park, which was built in 1814. It had three acres, half for the garden itself and half for the sheds, frames, forcing houses, and other structures. The format is “a conducted tour around an old walled kitchen garden in the South of England”, with material about the water, the walls (heated or otherwise), layout of beds and borders and paths, vegetables, frameyard, compost, glass and glasshouses, pinery, vinery, potting shed, pests and diseases, mushrooms, seeds, and gardeners of the day. In addition, there is other material gleaned from looking at some 450 kitchen gardens over a 25- year period, making drawings, notes and taking photos. Hundreds of these drawings help illustrate the book. The range includes Queen Victoria’s kitchen garden at Windsor (1850). In time, she ranges from 1085 through 1995. As a scholarly book, there are also important and extensive endnotes, bibliographies, a glossary, and thumbnail biographical profiles. Audience and level of use: kitchen gardeners, libraries, culinary historians. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: “There are hundreds of old kitchen gardens like it throughout the British Isles. Most of them are now disused and in ruins, but within living memory, and for several centuries before that, the cooks in the kitchens they supplied never had to buy anything from a greengrocer, except citrus fruits and pineapples – and even these luxuries were grown in such gardens, once upon a time. My purpose is to discover how these old kitchen gardens were capable of such sophisticated productivity, and thus relate their history.” (p.11) The downside to this book: it could actually have been longer! The upside to this book: extensive index, including references to illustrations. A major contribution to kitchen gardening history. Quality/Price Rating: 91. 10. CAST IRON COOKING; 50 gourmet-quality dishes from entrees to desserts (Quarry Books, 2006; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 128 pages, ISBN 1-59253-237-3, $23.95 paper covers) is by Dwayne Ridgaway, a food stylist and recipe developer who has other books in the “50 dishes” format from Quarry (sandwiches, grilling, one-dish meals). Celebrity chefs are apparently touting the virtues of cast-iron pans these days. One section here describes the attributes of the pans and how best to use them, with a review of shape and brands. Enameled-coated pans are also covered (see also Le Creuset book in the review below). There is a brief history which includes chuck wagons, as well as the differences between live-fire, charcoal cooking, and grilling. New pots are being created, such as cast iron tagines and woks, and this is helping to spread their virtues. Weights and measures in both the U.S. and metric forms for each ingredient is rated a s definite plus here. The recipes are divided into sections on skillets, griddle and grill, roasting- braising-baking, Dutch ovens, and fryers. Informative sidebars. Audience and level of use: cast iron fans. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: whole roasted teriyaki- orange chicken with scallions and green beans, Swiss chard and roasted pepper breakfast frittata, blackened catfish sandwiches, apple- r=cranberry cornmeal skillet cake, osso buco with porcini risotto. The downside to this book: too short a book The upside to this book: good section on seasoning. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 11. LE CREUSET COOKBOOK (Les Editions Culinaires, 2005; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 144 pages, ISBN 2-84123-099-6, $27.95 hard covers) is by David Rathgeber (chef at Aux Lyonnais bistro in Paris) and Elisa Vergne (author of 40 cookbooks). This is the English translation for the North American market. Obviously this is an appliance cookbook, and the chef uses Le Creuset at his place. Here are 56 bistro recipes, with practical information on how to use enameled cast-iron and stoneware cookware. There are some notes on matching wines with food. He indicates prep times and cooking times. The overhead photography is superb and sharp. U.S. measurements are used. Audience and level of use: for Le Creuset (and similar) users. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: free-range chicken with cream; pumpkin soup with chestnuts; rabbit in aspic; foie gras in terrine; eel slices; frogs’ legs; seven-hour leg of lamb; cherry clafoutis. The downside to this book: limiting. You’ll need several different types of pans. The upside to this book: a good book for users of enameled cast iron. Index of ingredients, plus an index to the recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 83. 12. THE OMNIVORE’S DILEMMA; a natural history of four meals (Penguin Audio, 2006, 13 Compact Discs, ISBN 0-14-305841-X, $56) is an audiobook of Michael Pollan’s important work, published earlier this year. Pollan is a longtime contributor to the New York Times Magazine, and author of bestsellers (more details at www.michaelpollan.com). His book is read by Scott Brick, and engaging actor with a great voice, who can also be heard on other audiobooks. His style is crisp and elegant, with good volume and enunciation. Pollan concerns himself with the inside workings of four meals, much like Margaret Visser’s writings of over a decade ago. But Pollan’s work is more of a polemic: the U.S., he believes, has a national eating disorder of the first magnitude, facing a blinding array of choices and deviously labeled products. All is not what it seems, and to maneuver your way through the system, you need to read all the labels and stay alert to what you are buying. Pollan believes that our eating choices dictate the sustainability of life on the planet. He traces a food chain for four meals (a fast food burger, a Whole Foods organic meal, a meal for which he had a hand in producing the food, and a meal he had total control over), from source to finished dish, moving from cornfields to food lots to labs to fast-food outlets to organic farms and to the wild. One of his main conclusions is that the organic food industry is still an agribusiness in that it supplies the larger unfeeling chains such as Wal-Mart or Whole Foods. Audience and level of use: listeners, car drivers, iPod types. Some interesting or unusual facts: “When it comes to food, doing the right thing often turns out to be the tastiest thing an eater can do”. The downside to this CD: not indexed, hard to locate specific passages without a table of contents or markers. The upside to this CD: a chance to hear about the food industry. Quality/Price Rating: for this format, 90. 13. LA BONNE CUISINE DE MADAME E.SAINT-ANGE (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 786 pages, ISBN 1-58008-605-5, $55 hard covers) was originally published in France in French in 1927, and last reprinted in 1995 by Larousse. Here, her techniques, recipes and culinary tricks are translated into English by Paul Aratow, Chez Panisse co-founder and original chef de cuisine, with a contextual forward by Madeleine Kamman. There are 1300 recipes here plus over a hundred illustrations: all the classics, and then some. It had been billed, for years, as “the original companion for French home cooking”, a sort of equivalent to “The Joy of Cooking”. It is very detailed, right down to the finishing touches and step-by-step instructions for practical home cooking. It has been said to have influenced Julia Child and Madeleine Kamman. Aratow has used the book as a major source of ideas for Chez Panisse. Each recipe has prep and cooking times, and is expressed for six people (normally). The historical material has been retained (e.g., firebox and coal and boiler). There are also collections of lunch menus, dinner menus, and formal menus, as well as party menus and cocktails. There are both U.S. AND metric measurements for each ingredient. Audience and level of use: cookbook collectors, schools of hospitality. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: salt cod salad, pots de crème, jugged hare, sheep trotters, coq au vin, stuffed cabbage, broche. The downside to this book: there are no page references for the dishes in the menus – you’ll have to look them up yourself. The upside to this book: with its expanded index, the book becomes also a culinary encyclopedia. Quality/Price Rating: 88. 14. BOULEVARD; the cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2005, 244 pages, ISBN 1- 58008-553-9, $70 hard covers) is by Nancy Oakes (chef and co-owner) and Pamela Mazzola (chef de cuisine), with Lisa Weiss as focusing food writer. Boulevard opened in 1993, overlooking the Ferry Plaza Marketplace. The Zagat guide rated it as best restaurant in the city for seven consecutive years. This oversized book, verging on coffee- table status, has 75 recipes, mostly mains. There are six salads, 6 soups, 13 starters, 8 fish, 7 poultry, 9 meats, and 9 desserts. The authors give pantry notes, some basic recipes for sauces, and U.S. sources and weights and measures. Cook’s notes appear as “Kitchen and Shopping Notes”. Most mains have accompanying side dishes or garnishes, as found on the restaurant menu. Audience and level of use: restaurant cookbook for fans and home cooks, Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sand dabs stuffed with lobster and artichokes, goat cheese and truffle ravioli, roasted ratatouille soup with white beans and Serrano ham, bacon-wrapped monkfish stuffed with lobster and avocado, rabbit two ways (loin and legs), lemon meringue icebox cake. The downside to this book: there are several dedications and acknowledgements but no attributions. Question: which one is Bruce Aidell’s wife? There is also no metric table of equivalents. The upside to this book: the upscale recipes make a definite contribution. Quality/Price Rating: 86. 15. THE NEW CALIFORNIA COOK; more than 200 timeless recipes (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 392 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4901-5, $29.95 paper covers) is by Diane Rossen Worthington, a multiple American cookbook author. It was originally published in 1994, and now has been updated for the newer cook. New recipes include dipping sauces and breads; changes include the cooking of raw egg components. There are new materials on artisans such as chocolate producers and cheesemakers. Poultry sausage is also a new topic. This package of appetizers to desserts also includes prep tips, cook’s notes, and menu suggestions. There are 12 of the latter, with page references, for holidays and buffets. There is also a table of metric equivalents. Audience and level of use: beginner cooks, those who like a laid back approach to food. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pear and chicken liver mousse, warm grilled vegetable and shrimp salad, glazed lemon and sour cream cake, chocolate truffle brownies, smoked salmon and caviar torte. The downside to this book: it should get heavy use, and the binding needs to be tougher. The upside to this book: there are recommended wine matches for most of the recipes, contributed by Anthony Dias Blue. Quality/Price Rating: 90. 16. FRUIT; recipes for lunch, brunch, desserts, and more (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2006; distr. Thomas Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 1-84597-104- 3, $34.95 hard covers) is a collection of recipes by previous authors for the publishers (Maxine Clark, Louise Pickford, Lindy Wildsmith, among others totaling 12). As such, it is, of course, a package. There are diverse applications: salsas, soups, appetizers, as well as breakfasts and desserts, breads and muffins. Fifty recipes in all, covering the major fruit groups (citric, berry, orchard, vine, exotic). There is a chapter on preserves, mostly of a savoury or bitter character such as chutney or marmalade. Audience and level of use: fruit lovers who may wish to do something with fruit a bit earlier in the menu. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: rhubarb clafoutis, honey- roasted peaches with ricotta, warm compote, grilled chile herb polenta with papaya mojo, fruity lamb stew, mango cheeks with spiced sugar ice cream. The downside to this book: only 50 recipes. The upside to this book: there are conversion charts for the U.S. volume and weight measurements. Quality/Price Rating: 85. 17. FIESTA LATINA; fabulous food for sizzling parties (Chronicle Books, 2006; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 0-8118-4410-2, $25.95 hard covers) is by Rafael Palomino, author of other Latino cookbooks and owner of several Latino restaurants. Whether you want to do this food for a part or just for dinner, the choice is yours and modifications are easy. Basic preps include quesadillas, empanadas, grilled meats, cocktail party food, and drinks. There is a glossary of ingredients, and U.S. volume measurements are used. Audience and level of use: party throwers. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grilled skirt steak with yucca and chorizo hash brown, arepas (Columbia griddled Johnnycakes) and guacamole, passion fruit and foie gras napoleons, chipotle potato cheese gratin, yellowfin tuna and coconut poblano ceviche, oyste