WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 1, 2005 The Event: Media reception and press conference to celebrate wines of South Africa at the 2005 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo. There was a panel discussion about what would occur at the show’s exhibits. The Venue: CN Tower Horizons Cafe The Target Audience: the consumer. There were about 50 press and PR people. The Availability/Catalogue: sheet listing the GL or Vintages availability of 15 wines (six are whites). The Quote: “It’s a shame that there were no pinotage wines here today” The Wines: -Two Oceans Shiraz (GL, $9.45) – ripe, good acid length and polish, syrah mode. -Fleur du Cap Chardonnay (GL, $11.35) – good stuffing, fruit and wood. -Graham Beck Shiraz (Vintages, $17.95) – I like everything from Beck, including this lengthy fruit bomb. -Tribal Sauvignon Blanc/Colombard (GL, $7.95) – zesty citric peel. -Nederburg Shiraz (GL, $12.45) – balanced fruit and length, food wine, syrah style. -Robertson Shiraz (GL, $11.95) – good depth, crisp syrah in a longer finish. The Food: on the sweet side to show off the wines: canapés, lamb chops, salmon on potato, seared tuna on a spoon, enormous cheese platter. The Effectiveness (school grade): 89. 2. The Time and Date: Monday, November 7, 2005, 10 AM The Event: The Nebbiolo seminar at the 10th Annual Italian Wine and Grappa Tasting The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: the trade, restaurants, the press. About 65 attended the seminar. Plus an award ceremony for the “Italian Wine Diploma” given to successful sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: a tasting of three Barolos from 2000, two Barbarescos from 2001, and one Sfursat di Valtellina from 2002. The Quote: “It’s a shame that the seminar was called for 10AM and didn’t get underway until shortly before 11AM; there must be a way out of this vicious cycle-circle”. The Wines: six specially imported, most not available in Ontario, led by Giuseppe Martelli from Italy. There was great ceremony in decanting the wines, and video cameras were everywhere. Pelissero Barbaresco Vanotu 2001 was my favourite; it is brought in by Torion Trading ($75, oaky, off-dry on palate, vanilla, new style, and approachable but at a price). The Food: bread and water. The Effectiveness (school grade): 80. 3. The Time and Date: Monday, November 7, 2005, 1:30 PM The Event: 10th Annual Italian Wine and Grappa Tasting. The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: the trade, restaurants, press. The Availability/Catalogue: This is probably the most well-developed trade catalogue of any country which exhibits in Ontario. It has full names and addresses, phone numbers, websites of the principals and their agents in Canada (BC, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec). Each wine has its grape varieties and percentages listed. Unfortunately, ALL the wines in Canada are listed, even those not on display in Ontario – this leads to a heavier than usual spiral bound package. Also, table numbers were tied into page references, which is a good idea – except here, the page numbers were exceedingly small and hard to read. As is common with many catalogues put to bed early, there were no prices, availability terms, and some of the vintage years were different. The Quote: “That guy with the white truffles: how MANY does he have???” The Wines: 75 wineries were out in full force I could only do a sampling, such as the full and ripe Angelini Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Spuntali 1999 ($91.95, VinVino), Ascheri Barolo Costa Bricco 2001 (ripe, body, Prevedello and Mathews), Banfi Sant’Antimo Colvecchio 2001 ($38.95 Feb 2006 Vintages, slightly Rhonish 100% syrah), Bava Moscato d’Asti Basso Tuba 2004 ($20, Merchant Vintner, light bubbly peaches), Canonica Cerreto Toscana Sandiavolo IGT 2001 (intense fruit from one- third each sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, Wine Lovers Agency), Gerardo Cesari Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso di Bosan 2001 ($30.50, like a baby Bosan, off-dry, from VinVino), Feudi di San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni 2002 ($34.35, very elegant but off-dry with oak sizzling on the palate, Barrique Wine Imports), Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2001 ($32.50, Connexion Oenophilia, one of the few “riservas” at the show, aromatic, drinking beautifully, great finish and length for food: one of the best sangiovese wines at the show), Masottina Colli di Conegliano Montesco 1999 ($50, TWC Imports, all round sipper and fooder with a long engaging finish; blend of merlot, half cabernet sauvignon, some cabernet franc and 10% local marzemino), Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Casi 2000 ($25, Vintages January 2006, good depth), San Felice Toscana Vigorello 2000 ($60, John Hanna & Sons, 60% sangiovese and balance cabernet sauvignon, excellent mouthfeel and satisfying finish). The Food: risotto with white truffles, beef, prosciutto, cheeses. The Effectiveness (school grade): 86 – there was a ton of wine I couldn’t sample because of lack of time. 4. The Time and Date: Monday November 7, 2005, 7:30PM The Event: Exclusive dinner to celebrate the 10th Annual Italian Wines and Grappa Tasting. The Venue: Avalon The Target Audience: the press, LCBO. No producers attended. The Availability/Catalogue: wines sampled came from the show. John Szabo was in charge of a blind tasting of these wines. Unfortunately, there was no overall discussion, and the wine information was released at the end, well after many diners had left. The Quote: “I’m not quite sure what I am drinking, but it does go well with the food” The Wines: Zardetto Prosecco 2004 Segreta (Grecanico-based), Sicily, Planeta 2004 Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi, "Le Moie" vineyard, Fazi- Battaglia, Le Marche 2000 Taurasi, Feudi di San Gregorio 2000 Barolo "Sorì Ginestra" Paulo Conterno, Piemonte 2003 Cagnulari, Feudi dell Medusa, Sardegna 200? I Capitelli, Anselmi Grappa di Merlot, Nonino (I would have sworn it was pear eaux de vie). The Food: Four types of house-made salumi, San Daniele, sliced butternut squash, braised baby artichokes; salt cod and littleneck clam soup with fregola; pheasant and crayfish boudin; Eigensinn Farm pork with Jerusalem artichokes; Italian cheeses, including three raw blues from each of cow, sheep and goat; apple confit. The Effectiveness (school grade): it was 11:30 PM before the cheeses came out. The food was very European in style, as befits the wines. A great night despite not knowing what the wines were. 92 points. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 8, 2005, 11:30 AM The Event: tasting of JeanJean wines, repped by Eurovintage. Lionel Harmel, Export Director, led the informal tasting over a luncheon. The Venue: Café Nicole, Novotel Esplanade. The Target Audience: the wine press The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are landed and affordable; Eurovintage has plenty of selling material. The Quote: “This is the seventh consecutive year that the LCBO has selected JeanJean Syrah Primeur Nouveau Pays d’Oc for the annual nouveau release in November” The Wines: -Ted the Mule Cotes du Ventoux 2004, a 60% syrah and grenache blend at 14.5% alcohol level, $11.95 General List in February, off-dry and hot. The white version, same price but a Cotes du Rhone, is mostly white grenache with 5% viognier and three other grape varieties. It was very fresh and fruity. -Lodez 2004 Languedoc Red, +353698, $10.95 general list, screwcap, good extract and fruit from the 50% syrah, 30% grenache and 20% carignan. -Devois des Agneaux 2003 Blanc, +653543 Vintages, $17.95, 45% rousanne, 35% grenache, balance marsanne. Oak character, a bit baked component. -Devois des Agneux 2000 Rouge, +979427 Feb Vintages, $19.95, three- quarters syrah, full and ripe, from 15 year old vines. -Chateau Valoussiere Coteaux du Languedoc 2000, +652255 October 2006 Vintages, $12.95, mild oaking. -Château St.Didier-Parnac 2003 Cahors, +303529 June 2006, $14.95, mostly malbec, matured 18 months in oak, dark extract at a great price. -Domaine La Martine Roaix 2003 Cote du Rhone Village, +652214 Vintages Sept 2006, $16.95, full of flavour. -Clos de l’Oratoire 2003 Chateauneuf de Pape, +993279 Vintages April 2006, $36.95, grenache-based with a long finish needing food. The Food: traditional bistro richness, including duck, to show off the wines. The Effectiveness (school grade): 90. 6. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 8, 2005, 3 PM The Event: Maxxium President’s Tasting Seminar The Venue: Vaughan Estate The Target Audience: restaurateurs, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: some of these wines are in Vintages or Classics catalogue. Each group of wines was presented by a principal. The Quote: “The seminar addresses the question: how well does wine age? We tried both a current wine for sale and an earlier version to taste” The Wines: -Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2002 ($75 at Classics, light nose, fruit on palate, dense and big on finish. 90% nero d’avola). The 1999 had age showing on the nose, French small oak barrels dominating the tonalities. -Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia Le Dardi Rose 2000 (1999 in Vintages, $58.95, light colour, tannic finish but still rich and elegant, not yet ready). 1996 was also light, but hardly aged at all. -Torres Mas La Plana 1999 (Vintages, $39.95, good oaking evident on the nose, very tannic finish). 1991 had an integrated nose, good fruit of plums, spices, still an edge to the finish. -Vina Sena 2001 (Classics, $75, Bordeaux blend from Chile of 75% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 6% cabernet franc, 4% Carmenere, green olives on nose, almost ready, goes down easy, mostly new French oak). 1996 had more integration but the fruit drops off, and it did not appear to be aging gracefully. -Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2002 (Vintages 2006, $139.95, 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% cabernet franc, lightly fruity with a good long depth but juicy off-dry mid-palate. Not Italian in style, but with chocolate and mocha tones. 18 months of barrel aging. 1997 had more cabernet franc tomes or leafiness, aging well, almost Bordeaux like. -Masi Costasera Amarone 2001 (General List, $35.05, very juicy, raisins showing, prunes, 15% alcohol). 1990 portly, very pruney and drying out. -Warre’s Vintage Port 2003 (Classics, $82, very tight and closed but berry fruit showing on hot finish). 1983 was nicely aged, of course, suggesting walnuts and cheese are accompaniments. The Food: bread and water The Effectiveness (school grade): 95. 7. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 8, 2005, 5 PM The Event: Maxxium President’s Tasting, a posh portfolio of wines and spirits, with at least eight principals in attendance. All of the wines are available, or they will be. Some are on Special Order. Call 416- 535-7745 for details. Over 70 wines, plus many types of liquor were available. The Venue: McLean House The Target Audience: restaurateurs, the wine press, LCBO personnel. The Availability/Catalogue: comprehensive tasting booklet with release dates, CSPCs, vintage dates, etc. The Quote: “It’s hard to believe that this tasting is always so good, so consistent, year after year.” Security was tight for gatecrashers. And it got really crowded later in the evening. The Wines: I could not taste everything. I did not repeat the seminar tastings. Here were the better wines: from the sparklers, Charles Heidsieck 1989 Brut (Vintages 2006) and Piper Heidsieck 1996 (Vintages 2006). From the whites, Latour Corton Charlemagne 2002 (Classics, +969188, $166.95) and Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay 2003 (Vintages 2006). From the reds, Luce de la Vite Tuscany 2001 (Vintages 2006, $99.95), Lucente Luce de la Vite Tuscany 2003 (Vintages 2006, $39.95), Le Volte Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Tuscany 2002 (Vintages +964221, $24.95, and a bargain), Sergeo Alighieri Vaio Amarone 1999 (Vintages Feb 2002, $69.95), Mazzano Amarone Classico 1999 (Vintages +545129, $89.95), Poderi Colla Tenuta Roncagalia Barbaresco 2001 (Vintages 2006), Chateau La Louviere Rouge Pessac-Leognan 2000 (Classics, +931394, $69.95), Laborie Jean Taillefert 2002 South Africa (Vintages, 2006, soft shiraz fruit and chocolate), Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage 2002 (Spring 2006 Classics, $54.95), Geyser Peak Block Collection Sandy Lane Vineyard Zinfandel 2002 (Vintages April 2006, $34.95, broad sweetness and ready now), J&F Lurton Piedra Negra Malbec 2002 Argentina (January Classics, $39.95). The Food: fabulous beef, salmon, cheeses (some raw), oysters, etc. The Effectiveness (school grade): 94. 8. The Time and Date: Saturday November 12, 2005, 6:30 PM The Event: The Wildlife Preservation Canada Annual Charity Auction and Fundraising Gala The Venue: Boulevard Club The Target Audience: people with money concerned about wildlife preservation; the wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: a listing of products available for both silent and live auction. The Quote: Alex Munro, chief organizer, made an announcement of the LCBO‘s involvement with preserving the environment (tetra paks), while Bob Peter spoke on the LCBO Natural Heritage Fund, and Jean-Charles Boisset spoke on contributing 50 cents from the sale of each litre container to the LCBO NHF. The Wines: French Rabbit 2004 Chardonnay (light and pleasant), Merlot (too soft), Cabernet Sauvignon (some tannic and herbal hits), all General List one-litre tetra paks from the south of France. The Food: sweet potato soup, salad, chicken, chocolate dessert. The Effectiveness (school grade): 87. 9. The Time and Date: Sunday November 13, 2005, noon The Event: Bill Redelmeier (Southbrook Winery) spoke on his Triomphe and Triomphus range of Chardonnays at the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada monthly tasting. The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square The Target Audience: the wine press, ultimately the consumer The Availability/Catalogue: blind tasting The Quote: Bill says that Ontario will be best known for its chardonnays. This is a repeat tasting of an Oct 2 function for 120 consumers, with similar results. There is another tasting on January 15, 2006, for 16 other people. There is no question that Southbrook offers value for the dollar. The Wines: First Flight – wine 1: perfumed, some wood tones, long length (Dom. Vincent Girardin Meursault 2002, $52.95); Wine 2: new wood on nose, a bit shrill in finish (Chartron & Trebuchet Puligny-Montrachet 2002, $57.95); Wine 3: more perfume on nose, good butterscotch tones, hot finish (Triomphe Chardonnay 2000, $19.95) Second Flight – wine 1: light gold, some aged complexity, older than the other two wines (Dom Chandon Corton Grand Cru 1999, $185); Wine 2: light yellow, broad on middle palate, cloves (Dom Jean Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru 2000, $130); Wine 3: light gold, heavy wood, a bit overoaked at this point (Southbrook Triomphus 2000, $49.95). The Food: bread and water The Effectiveness (school grade): 90. 10. The Time and Date: Tuesday November 15, 2005, 3 PM The Event: tasting with Alain Brumont from Madiran France The Venue: Opus Restaurant The Target Audience: the wine press, the trade, clients of the agent Adrian Williamson of Tastevin Selections (905-456-8287) tastevin@sympatico.ca The Availability/Catalogue: sheets of tasting notes. Tastevin can do special orders, consignment, etc. The Quote: “These wines are top picks of the Wine Spectator, especially the Chateau Montus and the Boucasse VV”. Brumont has generated a lot of interest in the tannat grape which is in the process of being re- discovered in France. His winemaker is Fabrice du Bosc who had previously worked with Guigal and Chateau Margaux. The Wines: Jardins de Bouscasse 2004 Pachevenc du Vin Bilh sec (blanc), $16: simple, but fruity depth, good quaffer. -Montus Blanc 2002, $25 (consignment): dry, long long length. -Torus 2003 Madiran, $15 (Vintages, 2006): easily the best value wine here, juicy and micro-oxygenated, loads of black fruit from the Madiran. -Argile 2002, $27: a newer wine to the portfolio, 14% alcohol, dark and tannic, needs cellaring time. -Montus Boucasse Tradition 2002, $19.50: soft, young wine, just beyond entry level. -Montus Boucasse VV 2002 Madiran, $38: showed enormous depth of flavour and a longer finish, best tasting wine in the series, and probably the best QPR value. -Chateau Montus 2002, $28: dynamic fruit, little wood, long finish, tannic. -Chateau Montus Cuvee Prestige 2001, $70 (Classics Winter 2006): this will get better as time goes by; right now it seems a bit pricey. The Food: meats, foie gras, cheese platters The Effectiveness (school grade): 91. 11. The Time and Date: Wednesday November 16, 2005, 3 PM The Event: Festival Beaujolais wine tasting, mainly 2004 vintage The Venue: George Brown College wine lab, sponsored by the French Chamber of Commerce in Canada Toronto. The Target Audience: members of CAPS Ontario and Toronto media. There were 24 participants. The Availability/Catalogue: tasting sheet notes. Many of the wines were not available except for this tasting and for the Beaujolais Nouveau release party at the Ontario Club the next day. The Quote: Ken Chase, who conducted the seminar, pointed out that Beaujolais is useful to introduce people to elegant red wines, the classic Euro-style lean red wines better suited for food. ”The more northern the wine, the more big and masculine and food worthy” The Wines: We began with three chardonnays, a Saint Veran, a Macon Peronne, and a Pouilly Fuisse. Then we tasted the reds in a pre- determined order. The interesting thing was the amount of bottle variation. There were two of each bottle opened: one was poured to the front row, where I sat; the other was poured to the back row and to Ken Chase. So Ken and I had two different bottle samples. And in nearly every case, my notes varied from his. We ended up shifting glasses back and forth so that he could taste what the front row tasted. There was a difference. The Cotes de Brouilly was all cherry, slightly papery, candy nose, with a short finish. The Brouilly was raspberry driven, with some spices and full but low tannins, mocha tones, moderate finish. Good food wine. Ken’s sample was corked, so the entire back row had to get a re-pour. The Chiroubles was slightly vegetative. The Regnie was very strawberry and hot with soft tannins. The Fleury was a bit closed, even peanutty and stemmy, slightly sour finish. The Moulon a Vent showed plenty of black fruit after a period of being mute. It had some caramel, and a long engaging finish. It was also a 2003 vintage. The Morgon had a full, engaging, hot finish on the mouth. The best wine in the parade was the Chenas, with its excellent depth of strawberries and raspberries, and even some brett which gave it the character I was looking for. The Julienas began mute but opened up to chocolate with a fat palate and short finish. The St.Amour was stemmy and shrill. The Food: water The Effectiveness (school grade): 89. 12. The Time and Date: Thursday November 17, 2005 4 PM The Event: Small Winemakers Collection monthly tasting of new releases, consignment wines, private orders, and traveling producers. 416-463- 7178 and www.smallwinemakers.ca. The Venue: their offices at 100 Broadview The Target Audience: some trade, some media, some private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: tasting sheets plus plenty of opportunity to talk to the staff The Quote: Cesare Coda Nunziante from the Colognole estate in Tuscany was showing off his wines, Chianti Rufina 2001($17.95) and Chianti Rufina Riserva del Don 2000 ($29.70). The Wines: The wines I felt offered exceptional value were the Chianti Rufina, although the Riserva did have more stuffing but not enough more to warrant another 12 dollars. The Normanno 2004 Inzolia from Sicily had generous fruit for $11. Waterstone Chardonnay 2004 from Carneros California had a good balance between fruit-acid-oak ($27.70). Normanno 2004 Nero d’Avola from Sicily ($11.95) is the red counterpart, and it was just as fruity and developing, a good restaurant wine. Chateau Fontareche 2003 Corbieres ($14.70) had a great nose and aggressive character, red fruit on palate. Mandolin 2002 Merlot at 14.5% ($14.95) showed personality and character, which many merlots lack. There is value here. Margan Family 2003 Shiraz from the Hunter Valley ($16.95) was full and firm, higher acid levels, almost Euro-style. Waterstone 2002 Pinot Noir Napa ($27.70) needs time to open, but it was fruity with a hot finish. Its age was showing, making it a good buy for a restaurant. The Food: cheese platter The Effectiveness (school grade): 88. 13. The Time and Date: Thursday November 17, 2005, 6 PM The Event: reception for South African wines at the 2005 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo. The Venue: Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building The Target Audience: wine media, agents, some trade. The Availability/Catalogue: a lineup of bottles. The Quote: Most of the wines were NOT duplicated from the November 1 reception. While there was no pinotage, there was an interesting Fairview Pegleg Carignan (+655365, $23.95 Vintages) and Porcupine Ridge Syrah (+595280, $13.95 Vintages). The Wines: In general, I found the wines from Vintages, which are admittedly higher in price, better in character than the General List. We were exposed to some 20 wines tonight from 9 different agents. Dornier Donatus White (+597278, $18.95 Vintages) and Red (+606020, $32) were the highlights for me. Graham Beck’s Shiraz, now a Vintages essentials at $17.95 (+607796) must be considered a good value wine. The presentation style for these wines hampered my ability to take any notes, so I’m going on my memory. The Food: cheese platters, something that looked like tomato bruschetta. The Effectiveness (school grade): 84. 14. The Time and Date: Thursday November 17, 2005, 7:30 PM The Event: the 2005 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo The Venue: Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building The Target Audience: the consumer, but tonight it was VIP (costs more money but there were special tastings and a reduced crowd). Unfortunately, the audience was also split between this show and the Beaujolais Nouveau Festival. Many tonight opted for the Nouveau party because the Expo was on all day Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, while the Nouveau was just one night. The Availability/Catalogue: a walk around show, with plenty of paper from the agents and the country booths. The Quote: “It gets busier every year”. The Wines: this is one of the few opportunities to try a wide-range of wines, usually off the General List, from several agents. Churchill Cellars were pouring all of their General: Banrock Station, Marcus James, Hardys, Cellier des Dauphins, Pisse-Dru, Vendange, Mondavi, Talus, et al. I especially enjoyed the Marcus James Chardonnay from Argentina ($8.75, a lightly fruited and spicy wine), the Barossa Valley Estate Spires Chardonnay (apples, citric peel, vanilla), and their Shiraz (peppery, vanilla). MCO is a small agent who always participates in the Expo (this is one of their rare consumer forays), and their lineup constitutes a portfolio tasting for dawdling (one year I will do this)….In addition to a range of scotches, cognacs, and liqueurs, they offered the South African Dornier series, the Mischa Eventide line from South Africa ($20 for a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Shiraz), Burrowing Owl Estate Merlot 2003 Okanagan Valley ($37.95 licensee, and surely Canada’s finest merlot) and its Pinot Gris 2004 ($31.30 licensee). I also enjoyed Courbis Les Eygats Cornas (+719385, $54.95, ripe and full). And the Expo is the only place to catch up with New York wines, since they rarely exhibit outside the trade. This year the excellent lineup had Corey Creek Chardonnay 2003 from Long Island ($22.95 +650853 Vintages) and Dr. Frank’s Salmon Run Chardonnay 2003 Finger Lakes ($21.85 Consignment from Hobbs & Co), although Dr. Frank’s Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($24.97 Consignment) is well-worth the extra three bucks for a more developing full-palate and oaky body. The Salmon Run Meritage 2002 ($23.25 Consignment) is also no slouch. Fox Run Cabernet Franc 2002 Finger Lakes ($24.95 Lorac Wines) had a strong franc component. The Food: to be bought The Effectiveness (school grade): 88. 15. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 22, 2005, 5 PM The Event: the 2005 Canadian Brewing Awards Gala The Venue: Duke of Westminster Pub “grand ballroom” The Target Audience: brewmeisters, media, celebrants The Availability/Catalogue: the winners have been known for quite some time (the competition was in April, and the results published in TAPS magazine). 230 brews from 48 participants were graded in 21 categories. Pumphouse Brewing of Moncton, NB, led the way with nine medals (six golds). The Awards ranged from American/Canadian style lager (ugh) through European Style Lager, Amber and Red Ales, Cream Ale, Bitters, Browns, Indian Pale Ale (the best all round beer style, in my opinion), Wheats, Belgian Style, Honeys, Porters, Stouts. The Quote: ”It’s my impression that some of the finest beers are coming out of BC”. Beers like Kitsilano Maple Cream Ale (Granville Island Brewing), Original IPA (Phillips, Vancouver), Sergent’s IPA (Old Yale, Chilliwack), and Wild Honey Authentic (Nelson). The Beers: some were mentioned above. The problem with the reception is that tasting samples were not available. Something to do with liquor licenses. We each got two tickets to have two full beers, and then we needed to share with others. The Food: bar grub. The Effectiveness (school grade): 86. 16. The Time and Date: Tuesday November 22, 2005, 6 PM The Event: the Ontario Wine Society’s New Kids on the Block wine tasting. The Venue: Ontario Club The Target Audience: members and guests, to explore new Ontario wineries (www.ontariowinesociety.com). 85 tickets were sold. On January 16, 2006, there is the great Ontario vs. Bordeaux shootout. On February 21 is a walk-around Ontario sparkler night. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines available from the winery. The Quote: “It was a long evening, with good speeches on the wines by the principals, plus some politics”. The Wines: 1. Ridgepoint Wines 2004 Riesling (reception), $14.95, was an off-dry blend of vineyards from an Alsatian clone (www.ridgepointwines.com). 2. Stratus Vineyards 2002 Wildass Red (reception), $19, was full, voluptuous, as a blend of cabernet, merlot, gamay, and syrah. It’s a second wine of Stratus, primarily meant for the restaurant trade. Good depth of nose, long length, and developing well. (www.stratuswines.com). 3. Fielding Estate Winery 2004 Gewurztraminer, $13.95, showed MVC nose based on 12 hour skin contact, Alsatian clone, good mouthfeel, long development but not very bitterish in the finish. (www.fieldingwines.com). 4. Flat Rock Cellars 2004 Riesling, Nadja’s Vineyard, $19.95, hand- sorted, gravity flow, fresh MVC nose, slightly citric on the palate, more acid and dryness to the finish. Flat Rock only grows pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling. All wines in screwcap. This riesling was a Canadian Wine Award Riesling of the Year winner in 2005. (www.flatrockcellars.com). 5. Mountain Road Wine Company 2001 Chardonnay, Barrel Fermented, $15.95, aromatic but Ontario nose, good length and character, lots of wood and tropical tones, a distinctive wine. Best Value Wine of the Night. (www.mountainroadwine.com). 6. Flat Rock Cellars 2003 Pinot Noir, $23.95, uses six different clones (three clones on two type of rootstock). Hard pinot nose, but MVC, fruit shy, high alcohol, some mocha, tannic length. Needs time. 7. Ridgepoint Wines 2002 Nebbiolo, $29.95, little MVC of nebbiolo, some cranberry and anise (which is useful). Good food wine. 8. Stratus Vineyards 2002 Cabernet Franc, $32, good MVC but also soft and fruity, approachable and ready now. Can be aged. A classic from a juicy year. 9. Mountain Road Wine Company 2001 Cabernet Franc, $16.95, listed at 16% alcohol (Amarone levels!). Chocolate nose and black fruit, full body, hard structured edge to the fruit on the mid-palate, hot finish. Could be ready in two years. 10. Fielding Estate Winery 2002 Cabernet/Merlot, $35, their flagship wine. Smooth nose feel, good MVC fruit, tannic finish but definitely a 50 – 50 cabernet-merlot bland. 18 months French oak, 15 year old vines. 11. Mountain Road 1999 Vidal Icewine, $34.95 halves, peaches, apricots, some marmalade complexity from age. The Food: too many fried foods, went better with the Icewine. Suggestion: how about just a platter of cheese? The Effectiveness (school grade): 88. 17. The Time and Date: Monday December 5, 2005, 1 PM The Event: a wine tasting with Olivier Humbrecht, MW, of selected Zind- Humbrecht Alsatian wines. The Venue: at the head offices of The Merchant Vintner, Zind’s Ontario agent. The Target Audience: the wine press The Availability/Catalogue: tasting sheets. The first three wines we tasted were available through Vintages; the last three will be coming in soon through merchantvintner@aol.com or 416-463-9496 The Quote: All the wines have been bio-dynamic since 1997. The company makes no Cremant (you need acidic wines, and Zind has none of these). Only ten percent of their production is in half-bottles. The Wines:-Muscat Herrenweg 2002 Zin-Humbrecht, +598557, $44, lovely muscat nose, body developing well, some butterscotch, completely dry in the long length. -Zind Pinot d’Alsace 2001, +626796, $34.95: blend of pinot blanc and chardonnay, some auxerrois. A Vin de Table entry level wine. 2002 vintage is also in the system. Great off-dry food wine, rounded fruit in mid-palate, even some caramel on the finish. -Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim 2002, +918078, $39.95: 16% alcohol!! Great golden colour, MVC nose and body, long, long length, glorious with food, very rich, very botrytis, finishing bitterness. -Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim 2003, $40-45: 14.5% alcohol, more bitterness in the finish, vented dry, yet ripe fullness in the mouth, big and powerful, alcohol can be dominant. My favourite wine of the tasting. -Riesling Clos Hauserer Wintzenheim 2003, $40-45: 13% alcohol. 18 months slow fermentation from a very good year, low nose, off-dry, great acidity hides some sweetness. -Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal 2003, $40-45: 15.5% alcohol. Off-dry style, not a Vendange Tardif, slight pink body is visible, reminds me of candy, body is thick and unctuous. Low-yielding grapes. The Food: nibbles The Effectiveness (school grade): 92. 18. The Time and Date: Tuesday, December 6, 2005, 2 PM The Event: Grand Tasting Wines of France – over 300 wines. The French have found an opportunity to promote in December, and they are doing it… The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: trade in the day time, Club Med at night. The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue is a model: spiral-bound, although the pages are a tad wider than is comfortable. Pages are arranged in table order, as is the show (makes sense, no?). Table order is determined NOT by wine but by agent, in alphabetical order. There is a useful index of wines by region, with cross-references to the tables. So if all you are interested in are the Champagnes, then they are listed as at seven different tables. Wines were listed without vintages, since these are constantly changing, but with CSPC number and retail price. If the wine is by consignment, this is clearly indicated. There is also a full list of agent contacts with names and numbers and websites. The Quote: From Sopexa’s Ted Kalaboukis, “All the wines tasted here today are available for purchase in Ontario, either NOW or SOON” That’s got to be a first. The Wines: too many to try them all of course. I was impressed with the red organic estate grown wines of Domaine Catherine le Goeuil from the Cote-du-Rhone ($23 from Airen Imports), Domaine Charvin Rhone wines (Carriage Trade), Chateau Puynormand 2001 Montagne St.Emilion ($25.60 consignment, Case for Wine), Louis Roederer Champagne ($56.95 Vintages; and I almost died when I saw the bottle of Cristal, but it was a false alarm since it was empty), Veuve Cliquot 1998 Champagne ($71.20), Gustave Lorentz Pinot Gris 2003 (+649780 General, $14.95, screwcap, rich and ripe), Laurent Miquel Viognier 2004 (+673236 Vintages, $16.95, excellent upfront fruit with a hint of oak), Domaine des Coteaux de Travers Reserve Rasteau 2004 ($25 consignment, Lorac Wines, juicy), Chateau Lezongars L’Enclos 2001 1ere Cotes de Bordeaux (+729145 Vintages, $22.95, very dominating with prominent flavours at this price point), Taittinger Brut Champagne (+814713 Vintages, $57.95, toasty), Vignerons de Laudin Sublimessence CDR Villages 2003 (consignment from Portfolio Wines, very good syrah flavour hit and good aging), Domaine des Malandes Chablis 1er cru Vau de Vey 2002 (+701219 Vintages, $29.95). Torion Trading had the best over all table: Willy Gisselbrecht Gewurztraminer Reserve 2004 (+678003 Vintages, $17.50), Mas des Bressades 2004 Nimes Cuvee Excellence Rouge (+708750, $18.75), Guigal CDR Rouge 2001 (+259721 General, $17.10), Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 (+727503, $57.50, the more approachable 2003 is soon to be here, loaded with syrah) and Guigal Condrieu 2003 (consignment $59). The Food: cheese platters, lamb racks, foie gras, dips and fresh fruit and vegetables. The Effectiveness (school grade): 95. 19. The Time and Date: Thursday December 8, 2005, 11 AM The Event: A tasting of Majestic Fine Wines, from the Jess Jackson properties of Cambria (repped by Woodman), La Crema (repped by Diamond Estates), Hartford (Woodman), Atalon (Diamond), Matanzas Creek (Woodman), Cardinale (Woodman), and Verite (Woodman). Robert Bath, MS, Director of Wine Education at Majestic, came up from Santa Rosa CA to lead the seminar with a no-holds barred A/V graphic presentation. Ten wines were tasted, including two Kendall Jackson Grand Reserves which will be released in April, 2006 through the ISD program (only 100 cases of each). These wines were presented with the luncheon. Maria Allen, KJ wine person in Canada, facilitated the proceedings along with the enveloping team of Szabo and Szabo. The Venue: JK Wine Bar/Restaurant The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers, trade, private clients The Availability/Catalogue: extensive tasting notes and sheets. The Quote: “Jackson owns the vineyards, and hence the grapes, that he uses in his properties.” The Wines:-Cambria 2004 Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley, $31.95: biscuit nose, caramel evaporated milk coats the tongue, medium finish, 14.1% alcohol. Fr and US oak, BF, MLF, aged sur lie 1 year. -La Crema 2004 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, $29.95: butterscotch nose, textbook classic, hard fruit on mid-palate, hand picked grapes, three clones, 90% BF, 85% MF, aged sur lie. Longer length than Cambria. -Cambria 2004 Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley, $33.95: 14.9% alcohol, light sundried tomatoes, some rhubarb and cherries, 6.5 months in French oak. A Euro-style earthiness, good MVC for pinot but still ripe, soft and chocolate tones. -Hartford 2004 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, $38.95: restrained fruit, 14.1% alcohol, French oak for 10 months, heavy dense character, berries on the palate, moderate finish. -Matanzas Creek 2002 Sonoma County Merlot, $42.75: 14.7% alcohol, French oak for 16 months. Fruity nose, sweet black cherries but hot finish. Dense, high extract, some finishing tannins. A cellar keeper, but not a typical merlot. -Atalon 2002 Napa Valley Merlot, $42.95: 13.7% alcohol, French oak for 20 months. Dense colour, warm toast on nose, soft and plush, great finish. Very ripe. Some veggie notes of herbs. 2% cabernet sauvignon added. My fave wine of the tasting. -Cardinale 2001 Napa and Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $175: aged for 21 months in new French oak, from six different vineyards. Nose of mocha, some Bordeaux complexity of cigar box, dense, full and rich. From 2002 on, all grapes come from Napa only. -Verite 2001 Sonoma County La Joie, $175: 14.2% alcohol, new French oak for 16 months, 71% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, and 10% cabernet franc. Pauillac style is indicated, with fruit on mid-palate, dense and thick, excellent length but high tannins. Cellar keeper. -Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2004, $34.95: a strong food wine, but despite the price, not as proficient as La Crema. -Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $39.95: again, a strong food wine, definite California style. But for a few bucks more, grab Atalon. The Food: little plates of pita and hummus, Moroccan couscous, duck, salad, sausages, olives, breads – the plates kept coming. The Effectiveness (school grade): 94. PRODUCTS TASTED IN NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 2005 ============================================== 1. Muscat Ottonel 2002 (Hungary, +655308 Vintages), $11.95, won a Silver at the Muscats du Monde 2003 tasting; it’s a lovely crisp, off- dry, with muscat intensity. Lots of citric peel in this one. Refreshing. 2. Stratus Vineyards 2002 Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, $32, 14% alcohol with rich fruit, oak, balance, long length and succulence. 3. Three Thieves Bandit Pinot Grigio 2004, California Tetra Pak, $11.95 litre, +622019, $13% alcohol. Cold-fermentation makes the wine have a higher crisp acid level. 4. Reif Chardonnay 2004 Niagara VQA $10.95, +127977, 12.5% alcohol, creamy, baked apples and pears, good length. 4. Three Thieves Bandit Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, California Tetra Pak, $11.95 litre, +622001, 13% alcohol, seemed to taste like a regular cab from California, nothing remarkable. 5. Los Molinas Gran Reserva Valdepenas 1997, +620971, $13.95, with its tempranillo and oak, this was a Rioja styled wine at a bargain price. 6. For the unusual, there is the Szigetvin Matraaljai Pinot Noir 2002 from Hungary, which comes in its own framed wooden carrying case plus a rope handle (+328971, $11.95). It is red-fruit driven. 7. Stratus Vineyards 2002 Cabernet Franc, $32, good MVC but also soft and fruity, approachable and ready now. French Bordeaux nose of currants, toast, mocha and herbs. Can be aged. A classic from a juicy year. 8. Stratus Vineyards 2002 Gamay, $29 (winery only), 13%, a bit on the Morgon side with its earthy cedar complexity from low yields. Red fruit tones derived from a long time (20 days) on the skins, and French oak for 650 days. 9. Naked Grape Sauvignon Blanc (+665224), Chardonnay (+665232), Merlot (+665208), Shiraz (+665216), all $9.95 General List, all unoaked, and all heavily promoted. I had 10 women, ranging in age from 45 through 70, all professionals, try the range. The Sauvignon Blanc was the best, described as watery but with acid kick, slightly fruity, clean, smooth, best with food. The worst was Merlot, described as harsh, bitter, sharp, peppery, musty (I sampled the bottle; it was not corked). The Chardonnay was described as slightly sweet but bland. The Shiraz was described as having nice tannins and acid, a bit too fruity, smooth and round. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2005 – The Toronto Chilean Wine Tasting for media and trade professionals was an event at Fermenting Cellar in the Distillery District. This year’s event showcased 22 wineries from several growing regions in Chile (Elqui Valley in the north. Malleco Valley in the south, and 11 in-between), although some wineries only exhibited in the evening in the consumer show. Forefront Communications did an excellent job in setting up the booths, and there was a spaciousness not detected at other trade shows this fall. The best way to keep people happy, apparently, is to provide food. This also ensures that the wines appear food friendly, although we all try never to swallow our tasting samples. There was a huge assortment of cheeses and hot finger foods reflecting Latin American cuisines and sensibilities. The catalogue was a good pocket size, with details on all the wineries, their agents, various email addresses, vintages, prices and availability when possible. One disappointment: there were very few wines over $20 at the show; I felt that these more expensive wines would have been exceptionally useful to display to the trade, to show what Chile is capable of. I did not taste every wine, but some of my favourite wines from the tasting included Viña La Fortuna 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Organic, Curico Valley (lemony, grass); Viña Casas Del Bosque 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Casablanca Valley (Lorac Wine, Consignment, $17.95, grapefruity citrus); Viña Morandé 2003 Chardonnay Terrarum, Casablanca Valley (Majestic Wines, Vintages +660894, $14.95, butter and body); Via Wines 2003 Cabernet Franc Cielo Fino, San Rafael Valley (Vergina Imports, peppers and flowers); Viña Santa Carolina 2003 Carmenere Barrica Selection, Rapel Valley (Charton-Hobbs, Vintages +640888, $14.95, heavily tannic as a keeper); Viña Santa Alicia 2003 Carmenere Reserve, Maipo Valley (Eurovintage, General +309302, $10.15 (good price for mocha tones); Viña Aresti 2004 Carmenere Reserve Rio Claro, Curicó Valley (Mondia Alliance, $15.50 (green and slightly bitter in a rustic sense); Viña Calina 2004 Carmenère Reserva, Maule Valley (Diamond Estates, Vintages +951079, $15.95, chunky fruit, loaded with extract); Calama Wines 2004 Merlot, Central Valley (Dionysus, General +612440, $9.40 (some toast); Viña Miguel Torres S.A. 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna, Curicó Valley (Pacific Wine & Spirits, Vintages #177451, $13.95 (very Euro mode); Viña Concha y Toro 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Marques de Casa Concha/Puente Alto, Maipo Valley (Select Wines, Vintages +337238, $17.95 (one of my top wine of the show: a structured fruit bomb); Viña Casa Lapostolle 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Colchagua Valley (Trilogy Wine Merchants, Vintages +398800, $15.95, another Euro styled food wine); Viña Errazuriz 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Max Reserva, Aconcagua Valley (Philippe Dandurand, General +335174, $17.95, very warm West Coast wine); Viña Santa Rita 1999 Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Triple C Maipo Valley (Mark Anthony, Vintages +926261, $44.95 (restrained, a bit tight, needs cellaring); Viña Estampa 2003 Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Gold Assemblage, Colchagua Valley (Wineworld, $22.95, American mocha and vanilla); Viña Tabalí 2003 Shiraz Reserva, Limarí Valley (Connexion Oenophilia, January 2006 Vintages +662692, $16.95 (toasty Rhonish, syrah value, one of my top wines under $20 at the show). For more information about the wines of Chile, visit www.winesofchile.org. As a quality event, it rates 8.8 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2005 – The Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival had its media launch today at North 44, mid-afternoon. The Festival aimed to bring together many of the world’s finest vintners and chefs for wine collectors to sample and buy, in aid of the “Support a Scientist” program at the Toronto General & Western Hospital Foundation. It is hoped to be an annual event, as organized by Todd Halpern (Halpern Enterprises) who spent seven months cajoling his principals and restaurant pals into coming to Toronto. Thursday Oct 27 was for the Halpern Enterprises portfolio wine tasting (see below) at the National Club, the next day was to be an exclusive wine and dine experience in 25 private homes, followed a brunch and live auction on Saturday at the National Trade Centre. Most of the auction lots were large format bottles, such as the 18 litre bottle of Hermitage La Chapelle, 9 litre bottle of Haut Brion 2003, even a 225 litre barrel of Puligny Montrachet Villages 2005). Mark McEwan contributed a raft of appetizers; they just kept coming out…Hugel 2002 and 2003 Gentil were tasted (2003 was fresher but 2002 had more body), as were Tignanello 2001 (Antinori) for the food and the Firestone Merlot 2000 Santa Ynez Valley for the sipping (black fruit nose, soft and fruity, from a 9 litre bottle). As a quality media launch, this one rates a definite 9.2 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2005 – From North 44, I walked down to the Carlu – straight down Yonge Street. It was great weather. The event was a Vintages Penfolds Collectors Tasting, combined with a re-corking clinic. The 2005 clinics, hosted by Chief Winemaker Peter Gago, were held in San Francisco, New York City, and Toronto (The Carlu). These clinics provide owners of aged Penfolds red wines (15 years or older) the opportunity to have their wines assessed, and if necessary, opened, tasted, topped off, re-corked and re-capsuled on the spot. Once re- corked, a special back label is applied to approved bottles, signed and dated by the winemaker or certified assessor. Since 1991, Penfolds has held over 50 such clinics in North America, Australia and England. The company has opened more than 40,000 bottles of wine. The service is free, but reservations were mandatory. And any red wine from Penfolds was eligible, even the entry level wines – so long as they were 15 years old or more. I had a great time observing the process. Four magnums and 165 bottles were processed today – one person flew in from Michigan for the re-corking. Close to 400 bottles in North America were processed on this trip. Penfolds brought in all their own equipment. The tasting was geared to collectors: many of the wines are simply not yet ready or at their peak. It was also a chance to try some legendary wines, such as Grange 1998 ($330) and 2000 ($299). Other, more affordable wines included the Thomas Hyland range ($19 – 20) and the Bin range ($20 – 40), Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2002 (+309625, $35.95 Vintages, US oak dominates, some casks used in Grange’s previous vintage), Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+414987, $29.95 Vintages, 14.5% alcohol, blended French and US oak), Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz (+509919, $29.95 Vintages, 14% alcohol, peppery spices), Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 1996 (+682856, $35 Vintages, older US oak, some backbone, still needs cellaring time). The Ultra Range also included heavy hitters such as Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+414995, $99) and RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 2002 (+564278, $109, one of my favourites for the evening, using French oak makes it a bit more in the syrah Rhone style). Orders were also being taken for four Penfolds En Primeur wines, skedded for fall 2007 release. These were two 2004 wines, Bin 60A with Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Kalimna Shiraz, and Block 42 with just Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon. Each wine was available either as screwcap or cork, thus making four choices. Prices were a consistent $330 each bottle. For more details on the re-corking program, the en primeur programe, or just plain vinous details at Penfolds, work through angela.lyons@am.fostersgroup.com As a quality wine and food event, this one rates 9.5 out of 10. FRIDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2005 – H.H.Drung Imports held a wine press tasting for the INDABA wine series from South Africa, at the LCBO Scrivener Square, mid-morning. It was a chance to meet with Mzokhona Mvemve, the winemaker, and one of the few native winemakers in South Africa. All of the wines are value-priced, meant mostly for export. There is a production of 80,000 cases, with five varietals made. Ontario has three of the line on its General List, lacking only the Chenin Blanc and the Sauvignon Blanc. We tasted them today, from the 2004 hot vintage, and then finished off the affair with some bagged South African food goodies. * Indaba Chardonnay 2004 (+610931, $10.95) is apparently a big seller in the US. It is made at 14% alcohol, with 7% oak and 93% stainless steel storage, from handpicked grapes. Smooth aromas, pretty palate, entry level wine with modest finish. Some off-dry on mid-palate, with a citric component on the finish. Use as a sipper or first course wine. * Indaba Merlot 2002 (+610923, $11.95) had light caramel baked tones, black fruits on the palate, another substantial wine at 13.5% alcohol. Wood matured for eight months in 20/80 US/French oak. * Indaba Shiraz (+630384, $10.95) best of the trio, with its bright dark fruit aromas, 13.5% alcohol, plummy tones with sufficient concentration at this price level, Made more in a Northern Rhone style, finished off in used 30% US and 70% French oak for three months, undergoing malo-lactic fermentation. Call Harry Drung for more details 519-884-7600, or hhdimports@intown.net As a wine tasting event, this one gets 8.5 out of 10. MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 – The Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto sponsored its annual port tasting today, mid-day at Le Royal Meridien King Edward Hotel. 21 agents repping 42 brands presented a variety of ports: whites, rubies, tawnies, colheitas, LBV, vintage. It was all complemented by a variety of Portuguese food and specialties, fine cheeses, Lindt chocolates and fresh fruit. As usual, I did not taste everything, and I began with the red table wines. Particularly appealing for its fruit forwardness was Caves Alianca Quinta dos Quatro Ventos Reserva 2001 (PMA Canada) although it was pricey at $69.95. Quinta do Infantado Red 2003 (+618486, $23.90 Vintages in March 2006) was full and fruity. Quinta de Roriz Red Reserva 2001 (+652065, $34.95) was nicely aged with an edge of tannic support. Carm Red Reserva 2001 (FWP Trading, $41.55) showed an agreeable softness, although I preferred the balance of Quinta do Vale Perdiz Red Cistus Reserve 2002 (FWP Trading, +804047, $25 consignment) for its wood-fruit-acid. For the tawny port, there were a wide range of ten year old, twenty years old, thirty years old, and even 40 – making a century of port in one case (Taylor Fladgate). Overall, the twenty year old ports showed the best value in taste and in dollars. Offley Tawny 20 years ($48.60, PMA Canada), Sandeman Tawny 20 years ($54.95, +713495 Vintages), Taylor Fladgate Tawny 20 years ($67.95, +149047 General), Graham Tawny 20 years (+620641, $35.95 General, and especially nutty), J.H. Andresen Tawny 20 years ($55, Societe Vinaction Inc., and more sweet than expected), Quinta do Castelinho Tawny 20 years ($67.65, Rubaiyat Wine, hot finish), Barao de Vilar Tawny 20 years ($49.95, +677831 Vintages), and Cockburn’s Tawny 20 years (+368076 Vintages, $59.95, caramel tones). Again, with the older wines, I especially enjoyed Quinta do Infantado Vintage 1995 (+678102, $28.20 half-bottles, Vintages February 2006, in time for your sweetie), Silva & Cosens Colheita 1992 (+604751 Vintages, $35.95, although a tad sharp), Gould Campbell Vintage 1985 (Symington Family Brands), Pocas Vintage 1991 ($64.95, +642041, lots of chocolate), Pocas Colheita 1988 ($30 from RKW Wine Imports, spicy component), and the oldest wine in the show: Quinta do Castelinho Colheita 1969 ($90.65, Rubaiyat Wines, great wispiness). For more details about ports and Douro wines in Canada, email ivdp@webershandwick.com (www.ivdp.pt) As a stylish wine trade event, this one rates 9 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2005 – The second day of another busy week looms. Usually, it is the last week of the month which seems to have the largest combination of trade shows, LCBO tastings, producer tastings, lunches and the like. Not that I’m complaining, but its makes it awfully hard to come out with a newsletter by (or around) the first of each month, because in most cases this deadline is only a few days after most of the events have happened. Today, the wine press is off to France. In the AM and lunch, it is to Rhone, and in the PM, it is to Bordeaux. Sopexa has arranged for a tasting of General List and Vintages Cotes du Rhone wines, at the newly re-designed Savoy Bistro (where the Senator lounge used to be). Twenty-one wines were presented, along with 17 food items (about 21 food items if you count the cheeses and dips separately). To go with the wines we had steak tartare, smoked duck sausage, rabbit rillettes, escargot, braised short ribs, cod cakes, mushroom duxelles, foie gras boudin, cheeses, and of course frites. Later, there was a Brie cheesecake, cookies, and lemon pudding. The wines showed off the foods, and the foods showed off the wines: what more could you ask for? The demonstration was in aid of creating a buzz for the Rhone wines as food wines. My favourite white Rhone of the day was the Cotes du Rhone Reserve Perrin (+499509 Vintages, $14.25, fresh and floral with some anise). One of the best modestly priced wines was the Cotes du Rhone Labet Dame Alix 2003 (+630657 General, $9.90, lingering finish, strong syrah component). My overall favourite red was the Saint-Joseph Tardieu-Laurent Les Roches Vieilles Vignes 2001 (+640821 Vintages, $59.95, 40 year old vines, great syrah character, good nose but rustic and gamey complexity), followed by the rich and intense Saint-Joseph Yves Cuilleron Les Serines 2000 (+923516 Vintages, $59, rich and intense, upfront juiciness but verging on North American palate). Back to reality: Cotes du Rhone 2001 Guigal (+259721 General, $17.10) is one of the better values on the General List, for any wine. Good lingering finish, lots of syrah character. Cotes du Rhone Villages Domaine Gres St.Vincent 2003 (+652172 Vintages, $15.95) was a whopper at 14% alcohol, very warm and inviting, almost North American palate. Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret 2000 Le Dit de la Clapassiere (+652339 Vintages, $16.95, aging nicely but starting to show which is a good thing for a restaurant-ready wine, well-developed textures). Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Les Salyens 2000 (+652230, $16.65) was fullish with bags of syrah but a hot finish. For more details about the Cotes du Rhone experience, contact anne.popoff@sopexa.com As a wine press trade function, this one garners a rating of 8.8 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2005 – John Kolassa, Directing Manager of Chateau Rauzon-Segla (Margaux) and Chateau Canon (1er Grand Cru Classe St.Emilion) came to Toronto on business. He is represented by Tastevin Selections. He conducted a tasting at JK Wine Bar, with several vintages of Chateau Canon and its second label, Clos Canon. He also fielded questions on the developments at the property since the takeover by Chanel some eight years ago in 1997. He also brought along a pre-1997 bottle for reference, the glorious Canon 1989. On average, 60% of the production goes into the Chateau bottling, with 40% into the second label. Here are some notes: * Clos Canon 2003, $48 bottle: very edgy, tannic finish, needs cellaring time. * Clos Canon 2001, $46 bottle: smoother development, but still a taut finish. * Clos Canon 2000, $49 at Vintages: the edge has smoothed, and is a great complement to food, almost restaurant-ready. * Chateau Canon 2000, $150 bottle: elegance, longer depth, red fruit. * Chateau Canon 2003, $115 bottle: soft fruit, merlot dominance, elegance, ready soon, great North American appeal and palate. * Chateau Canon 1998, $130 bottle: some toughness, a bit unformed, need more time. For more details, contact Adrian Williamson, 905-456-8287, or tastevin@sympatico.ca This wine tasting gets 8.5 out of 10. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2005 – One of the longest days of my wine tasting life – worked through an assortment of wines at home, then over to Gallery Grill for a private lunch, off to a Vienna Trio concert, bypassed the Accesso Espagna trade tasting (I had no time), and headed off to the Halpern Portfolio Wine Tasting at the National Club. This tasting, in aid of the Toronto General & Western Hospital Foundation, began at 3 PM and ran past 8 PM. I almost stayed the lengthy course. It was a great tasting since many of the principals had come to pour their own wines. The book of wine notes was about 100 pages long, with excellent details about the wine estates, and full, concentrated notes about each and every wine. All the major wine producing countries are represented, and while Halpern reps Pillitteri Estates in Ontario, the agency should also have a winery from B.C. for completeness. I began on the top floor (there were four levels of tasting), reasoning that it would be better to descend as the night wore on. The venue was packed by 3:05 PM, but it was one of the more fluid crowds, with a lot of tasters nipping in and out of the tables. Some sections had a self- serve component, which was a great idea. Here are some notes: I did not taste every wine, of course. I saved myself for the rarities. From Argentina, there was Exdel with a $23 Maximum Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon (fruity, woody), a $52 Laborum Malbec, and a $52 Laborum Malbec-Cabernet that was out-of-this world in its flavour development. From Chile, there was a joint venture with Antinori (Haras de Pirque Albis Red Blend 2002, $62, with syrah, Carmenere and cabernet sauvignon. Quebrada de Macul showed its Domus Aurea 2002 (Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon 85/merlot 10/and franc 5); it was still tight ($41.40). From South Africa, there was Amani Vineyards with an exceptionally smooth Merlot 2003 ($28.75), a tropical and fruity Chardonnay 2003 ($21.60, longer finish than expected), and Chardonnay Atkinson Ridge ($39.60, very Burgundian in its elegance, made from the top 1% of its chardonnay pressing). From Spain, there was Bodegas Roda, a Rioja founded in 1991 with biodynamically grown tempranillo between 30 and 80 years old. This results in Cirsion 2003 ($280 a bottle), acknowledged as Spain’s best wine. Vega Sicilia had its fabulous Unico 1994 ($355) and Valbuena 2000 ($151), as well as the very good Alion 2001 ($70.80). From California, Halpern repped Chalk Hill (Chardonnay 2000, $19.15, light but woody), Cliff Lede (Poetry Stags Leap District 2002, $188.40, soft Meritage blend), Domaine Carneros Brut Rose NV sparkler ($51.90, one of my faves of the evening), Red and Green (Chile’s Mill Vineyard Zinfandel 2002, $35.45, a personal favourite for years), Jordan (Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $62.70, with 25% merlot, a hint of dill), L’Aventure Estate Cuvee 2003 ($112, largely cabernet sauvignon with petit verdot and shiraz), a Phelan Cabernet Sauvignon vertical (2000=tight, 2001=developing nose, 2002=tight and taut, under $110 each), and Silver Oak (2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, $92.95, showed a bit of butterscotch and coconut). But the strength of Halpern is in the French and Italian estates. From France, Brocard showed a range of Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru, Domaine de Montille had a Volnay, a Pommard, and a Meursault. Dujac chimed in with two Morey Dt. Denis and a 2002 Gevrey Chambertin. Faiveley brought a 2002 Nuits St. Georges 1er cru and a 2000 Corton. Leflaive showed a nifty Chassagne Montrachet 2003 ($61.35, stones and depth). Gosset had its Celebris Brut Champagne 1996 ($133.55) which I found all toasty and full of depth. Hugel had its racy and exciting Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive 2000 ($72.55), and Jaboulet had its 2001 Hermitage La Chapelle ($145) which needs cellaring time. From Italy, there was the full and dense Tommaso Bussola Amarone Classico BG 2002 ($74.75) and Amarone Classico TB Vigneto Alto ($189.60), right next to the biscotti table (good idea). Planeta showed an aromatic white Cometa 2004 ($42.75); Poggio Antico had a traditional Brunello di Montalcino 2000, with its three years in slavonian oak ($69.25); Prunotto Barbaresco Bric Turot 2000 ($90.15) was from a single vineyard, and it was a wonderful expression of nebbiolo. Querciabella Batar 2003, a blend of 65% chardonnay and 35% pinot blanc, was the most expensive Italian white at $78.95, and well-worth a taste. Equally good was the off-dry Pietra Bianca 2002 from Tormaresca; it was a chardonnay blend for $31.30. Many wineries I just could not get to. Antinori was always crowded, so were Ceretto and Coltibuono. I completely missed Isole e Olena, Lamborghini, and Le Macciole (even their Messorio Rosso 2001, which I failed to try, $269.75 a bottle). Hopefully, I’ll pick up many of these wines at the ICE wine show in November. I also could not find Australia anywhere; I was too busy tasting and forgot to ask. Sorry about that. Some wines were just too fabulous to put out. Halpern rep the DRC and the Sichel Bordeaux (Certain, Palmer, d’Angludet), but these were not shown. For more details about the wines of Halpern Enterprises, call 416-593- 2662, or visit www.halpernwine.com. As a wine and food tasting event, this one rates a 9 out of 10. PRODUCTS TASTED IN OCTOBER 2005 * Chateau des Charmes Brut MC Niagara VQA (+207944 Vintages, $21.95): a sparkler that is a consistent winner of medals over the years. 50% chardonnay and pinot noir. The wine at Vintages was bottled in 2002 as an RD, and was sur lie for three years. * Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Rosomel Vineyard Niagara VQA: slightly oaked for a Fume approach, but also adds a floral note to the predominant flavours of grass and herbs. 13% alcohol. * Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer 2003 St. David’s Bench Niagara VQA (+$53472 Vintages, $19.95): sold out at the winery, although Vintages snapped up 112 cases for Ontario distribution. Good varietal intensity, quality MVC, much like Alsatian but without the deep bitter finish. * Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2004 Okanagan BC VQA (+563981 Consignment Mark Anthony, $14.99): screwcapped and unoaked, 13.5% alcohol, loaded with tropicality and a nifty citric finish. * Mission Hill Five Vineyards Chardonnay 2003 Okanagan BC VQA (+518548, $14.99 consignment Mark Anthony): it says Bin 88 on the back label, and this is the replacement for the Bin 22 2002 chardonnay, which I loved. This current year is lightly oaked, with apples dominating. 13.5% alcohol. * Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2003 Sonoma County (+226936): one of my favourite American chardonnays. The 2001 is at Vintages ($19.95). 13.8% alcohol gives it body. There is balance here: fruit forward yet dry, tropicality and apples and citrus tones and vanillin all in play. A food finish. * Mission Hill Shiraz Reserve 2002 Okanagan BC VQA (+585778 Consignment Mark Anthony, $21.99): the 2001 vintage is at Vintages now. Black fruit and smoked meat dominate a Euro-style in the syrah mode. 13.5% alcohol. * Mission Hill SLC Merlot 2002 Okanagan BC VQA ($29.99 in BC; consignment Mark Anthony): SLC=Select Lot Collection. 14% alcohol, red fruit and anise are evident, but the merlot has a warm feel from the alcohol, not hot at all. Barrel aged in French oak. * Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Sonoma County (+599795 Vintages, $42.95): one of my favourite US cabs. 13.8% alcohol reflects the warm growing season that year. Lots of black fruit and black olives, good food depth. * Rodney Strong Merlot 2001 Sonoma County (Mark Anthony consignment): shows good varietal character with some stuffing, red fruit softness, longer length and engagingly so. 13.8% alcohol. * Concannon Petite Sirah 2003 Central Coast USA (Mark Anthony consignment): black cherry flavours and tons of extract. Needs a great braised ribs or pot roast to match it. Petite Sirah has been made for over 40 years by Concannon. 13.6% alcohol. * Saint-Joseph Le Prieure 2001 (Jean-Luc Colombo) Rhone ($29.95, +652247 Vintages): 13% alcohol. Still a bit tight (must be the Bordeaux shaped bottle!) but it is a lighter style than most St.-Josephs. * Lagunilla Tempranillo 2003 Rioja (+620963 General, $9.95): the only currently available Rioja in Ontario for under $10, a new listing. 100% tempranillo, aged six months in new US oak. Tastes lightly toasted, with some caramel. * The Cork Grove Castelao Merlot (+620625 General, $12.45): 13% alcohol, nifty red from Portugal. Kudos to the producer (Casal Branco) for the English label. Stainless steel fermentation, castelao dominates with red berries. Gutsy, dense wine, meant for food. * Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2001 St. David’s Bench Niagara VQA (+453415 Vintages, $25): aged almost a year in used French oak, dark berry components, some tobacco, needs food. Cellar it a few more years. * Vineland Estates Pinot Noir Reserve 2003 Niagara VQA: 12.5% alcohol for a lighter, more Euro-style version of pinot noir (spices, red berries, tannic finish with an edge). Needs additional cellaring. * Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2004 Reserve (J. Vidal-Fleury) Rhone ($17.10 half-bottles, +825505, Lifford Consignment): a Vin Doux Natural at 15% alcohol, lighter in style than many muscats but just as peachy- orange. * Chateau des Charmes Riesling 2001 Icewine Paul Bosc Estate Niagara VQA (+413724 Vintages, $60): the winery waits until the temperature drops to -10 (or even -12) degrees Celsius (not the minimum -8) before it harvests. Apricots and peaches dominate, with a racy citric finish that can only get better over the years. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2005 – George Soleas, Vice-President, LCBO Quality Assurance, invited a few wine writers to taste some quality Greek wines this morning. He said to me, “These are not wines being considered by anyone and most are not represented in Ontario presently. These are wines that I collected and I felt that it would be beneficial to taste with people who can appreciate them and at the same time it serves as a window to see what is happening with Greek wines. It is really too bad that no agent submitted them to the LCBO for consideration during the last Greek wine call. Also some of these wines are produced in small quantities.” George, let me thank you very much for the kind invitation to taste the Greek wines that you had assembled. The wines were really fine products and they should do well in the $15 to $30 price range. I was glad to see that you took the initiative to let wine writers taste some of the new wines from Greece. I appreciated that wine writers were included -- it means a lot to the writers in the media who cover wine. You also furnished us with some really sharp background notes on regions, varieties and wineries. Here are some notes from my files: * Domaine Tselepos Amalia Brut: NV, label says MC, 12% alcohol, off- dry, pleasant with some length. Aromas of stone and lemons. * Spiropoulos Mantinia Moshofylero 2004 (organically grown): only 11.5% alcohol, citrus-y, medium build, tastes great for an organic wine. * Palivou Vineyards Nemea 2004 (Malagouzia, Chardonnay): hot, 14% alcohol, full, ripe, voluptuous, buttery but lean fruity finish. * Domaine Tselepos Mantinia 2004 (Moshofylero): some pink noticed, 12% alcohol, off-dry palate of flowers, good food finish. * Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia & Assyrtico 2004: definite herbaceousness, like a sauvignon blanc, a bit green. * Domaine Gerovassiliou Viognier 2004: less fruity than most viognier, veering into chardonnay (apple, lemons, pears) country. Nice long finish. Barrel Fermentation in medium toasted French oak, but subdued. Much like a barrel fermented viognier from Languedoc: but why bother with any oak at all? * Tsantali Chromitsa 2004 – White Blend Mt. Athos (Chardonnay, Assyrtico, Athiri): another BF, 12.5% alcohol, fragrant mid-palate, leaning to candy on the back finish. * Manousakis Nostos Roussanne 2002 (Crete): 14.5% hot alcohol, ripe and full, delicious sipper, elegant finish. A bit baked, maybe cinnamon too. * Spiropoulos Porfyros Nemea 2000 (Agiorgitico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) (organically grown): 13%, one year in French oak, soft, chocolate, sup or food, maybe micro-oxygenated. * Spiropoulos Dorkas Nemea 2001 (Agiorgitico): French oak, pleasant, leanish. * Domaine Tselepos Nemea Dryopi 2003 (Agiorgitico): 13.5% alcohol, tight frame but expressive of red fruits * Domaine Gerovassiliou Avaton 2002 (Limnio-Mavroudi-Mavrotragano): unfortunately, it was corked and there was so second bottle. * Tsantali Metoxi Chromitsa 2000 Mt. Athos (60% Cabernet Sauvignon/40% Limnio): soft, some chocolate, definitely a heavily extracted Parkerized wine. New oak, ready now. Best red of tasting. * Tsantali Rapsani Reserve 2000 (Mt Olympus)(Xynomavro, Krassato, Stavroto): 13%, definite syrah-like component, still needs time, thinnish finish. * Manousakis Nostos 2002 (Syrah-Grenache-Mourvedre-Roussanne): grenache definitely comes through, Chateauneuf-du-Pape knockoff, tannic finish. * Palivou Vineyards Nemea Muscat 2004 (500 mL): ah, just a young sweetie. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2005 – Normally, I don’t do two events in one day, but about six hours separated the Greeks from the Aussies. The Australian High Commissioner and the CEO of HBC stores invited a crowd to a cocktail (=wine) reception at the Arcadian Court this evening. The event was to introduce the “Road to Australia” initiative that involved “Business Club Australia: Melbourne 2006”, an idea to involve business with Canadian-Australian ties which would give a measure of support to the Melbourne 2006 Commonwealth Games. In fact, the Games “has endorsed Business Club Australia: Melbourne 2006 as the official program creating international business opportunities through the Commonwealth Games.” More details are at www.businessclubaustralia.com. For tonight, it was the wine and food sectors that we were looking at. We were able to sample some Australian foods and wines that were available in Canada, as well as watch Brennon Dowrick, Australia’s most successful gymnast, perform. While there was unlimited food, some of the wines ran out early. But no matter: that just forced people to try other wines! Among the delights there were rack of lamb (for some reason Australian lamb is hard to find in Ontario: the Kiwis seem to have it all), kangaroo meat (beef with attitude), barramundi fish (mostly available, currently, at restaurants), cheeses (good Blue Mould), olive oils, chutneys, chips, various spreads. The wines showcased that I enjoyed included Yarra Burn Chardonnay 2002 (+742601, $29.95: very toasty and mellow), Yarra Burn Pinot Noir 2001 (+589515, $32.95: highly extractive fruit), Red Hill Estate Penguin’s Kiss Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2003 ($15.35, www.appellationwines.com: easy sipper), Brumby Chardonnay 2003, (+655118, $16.95: medium bodied quality drink), and the whole lineup from Ne Plus Ultra (416-964-8180): the ripe, easy going Koala Creek Shiraz (+622852, $12.95 General List), Polleters Cabernet Franc 2004 ($35, screwcapped), Polleters Morgans Choice 2002 (cabernets, shiraz, and merlot, $35, needs a thick bloody steak), Sandhurst Ridge Shiraz 2002 (my favourite of the evening, with heavy syrah tones of blackberry and vanilla), and Sandhurst Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (an “Instore Discovery” LCBO in January 2006, $35, opulent cassis). The only thing missing tonight was a band and dancing… As a quality party event, this one gets 9 out of 10. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2005 – It was a treat to be at the Ontario Club for the next round of monthly tastings of the Ontario Wine Society (www.ontariowinesociety.com). For the past several years, the society was at Tasting Rooms, but that venue was sold over the summer. There is much more room at the Ontario Club, along with the faux decadence. This will allow the society to expand its Toronto base of operations. Sadly, the free parking is gone (hint: take the TTC, especially if you have had a drink or two), and there are some issues with the food. But the dress code helps (casual, but no jeans or running shoes) and gives a more upscale tone to the proceedings. Tonight we helped to celebrate the 25th Anniversary of Colio Estate Wines (Lake Erie North Shore), which now produces over 200,000 cases of wine annually. Jim Clarke, Manager, and Carlo Negri (OWA Winemaker of the Year for 2005) presented a wide variety of wines to the society. They commented on all of the wines. Jim told us all a bit about their future Niagara plans (they’ve bought a place on the Niagara Parkway, they’ll put up a showcase winery, they’ll also produce NOTL wines in addition to the LENS series). We began with a sparkler reception in the Lounge (talk about space!!) in decent sparkling wine glasses. It was Lily CEV 2003, Gold Medalist at the OWA. At one time it was all riesling; now, it is 85% pinot noir and 15% riesling (off-dry, slightly perfumed and doughy, modest finish, +509083, $14.95). We then had a sitdown tasting of three whites and three reds and one icewine: * Colio Estate CEV Pinot Grigio 2004: 12.4%, Italianate nose but soft, fruity, slightly bitter, some anise, aromatic finish. Good body, lower acidity. $14.95, +503391. * Colio Estate CEV Gewurztraminer 2002: light nose, not at all Alsatian, good body but light finish, some anise. Peaches? Like a riesling. $14.95, +432104. * Colio Estate CEV Chardonnay 2002 Unoaked: again, some anise. Off-dry finish, aging well, good body of apples and pears. $13.95, +503383. * Colio Estate CEV Merlot Reserve 2002: 13%, my favourite red of the evening, approachable, currants, more cabernet sauvignon-like in flavours, pepper, fruity. $24.95, +500447. * Colio Estate CEV Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: 12.7%, very soft, very merlot-like (I hope the winery didn’t mix-up the labels and the batches!), but leaner finish. $21.95, +619510. * Colio Estate CEV Carlo Negri Signature Meritage 2002: 12.7%, one- third each of both cabernets and of merlot. Aged 22 months in new Euro oak, lots going on (mocha tones, vanilla, cedar, lead pencils) but in a tight framework. Needs cellaring. Long finish, distinguished wine. $69.95. * Colio Estate CEV Vidal Icewine 2004: quality apricot-peachy nose and follow-through. $39.95 half-bottle. For more information, check out the website www.coliowines.com for Colio store locations, or call 1-866-254-6075 for by the case purchases from Winerytohome. The Ontario Wine Society has announced its schedule for the next year: the October 17 meeting is a global pinot noir tasting, the Tuesday Nov 22 meeting is a tasting of wines from some of the newer Ontario wineries, the Tuesday Jan 17 meeting is a challenge tasting of Bordeaux wines versus Ontario Meritage wines, the Tuesday February 21 tasting is a sparkler event, the Tuesday March 14 affair is a cheese (Ontario?) and Ontario wine matching night, Monday April 3 is the annual Ontario Wine Fair, Tuesday May 16 sees a sauvignon blanc tasting, and Tuesday April 25 is the Annual Dinner. As a quality wine society event, the Colio tasting rates 8.5 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2005 – This morning the wine press/media went off to the Distillery District (The Boiler House Restaurant) for a preview tasting of the October 5 Chilean Wine Show at the Fermenting Cellar. Forefront Communications (David Rose, Sandy Kurbis, et al) laid on an impressive setup of wines to be blind tasted, plus a luncheon which followed. The wines were a cross section of what’s currently available in Ontario – not everything, of course (that’s at the show), but enough from the various LCBO retail programs (General List, Vintages, Consignment, but not, alas, Classics). We tasted three sauvignon blancs, three chardonnays, three Carmenere, six merlot, seven cabernet sauvignon, plus some malbec, shiraz, and pinot noir. Not too many white wines: where were they? Here are some notes on my favourites: * Vina Tabali 2004 Chardonnay Reserva Especial (Vintages in January 2006, +660005, $18.95): the most expensive white wine here today, and it showed. It just bounced right out of the glass, with fresh oak on the nose and toasted fruit. * Vina Santa Rita 2003 Chardonnay Special Reserve (+303628, $16.95 Vintages): next best, somewhat musky nose which cleared, some internal complexities which developed into a flavoursome long length. * Viu Manent y Cis 2003 Malbec Single Vineyard (Rouge et Blanc consignment, $27.95): leather, depth, black fruit, still developing, thick on the finish, needs time and cellaring. * Vina San Pedro 2003 Shiraz (+237800, $12.95 General List): warm leather, soft fruit, long finish, full tones, good value. * Vina Concha y Toro 2004 Trio (+433920, $14.95): merlot 65%, rest Carmenere and cabernet sauvignon. Wood, fruit, plums are join together, great finish. * Vina Santa Alicia 2003 Merlot Reserve (+371328, $10.15 General): lacks body, but good fruit and length. * Vina Concha y Toro 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Marques de Casa (+337238, $17.95 Vintages): black currant nose, medium depth, full palate of fruit. Great cabernet MVC. * Viu Manent y Cia. 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard (Rouge et Blanc consignment, $27.95): distinguished, elegant, balance of fruit and wood, good encouraging length. * Vina Santa Rita 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (+253872, $12.95 General List): thick and juicy, micro-oxygenated but still needs some cellaring time. Opened up later. Best wine in the tasting, especially at this price level. For more information about Chilean wines or ProChile, contact sandy@forefrontcom.com or www.forefrontcom.com. As a wine preview event, this one rates 8.5 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2005 – After the Chilean media tasting, I walked over to Konrad Ejbich’s book launch, hoping to pop in and say hello. Little did I know that there would be a mini-wine fair with eight of Ontario’s top wineries showing their best products. (Actually, there were only seven when I was there: the one from Prince Edward County was late and could have arrived after I left). The venue was Great Cooks on Eight in the Simpson’s Tower, and we had spectacular cheeses and hors d’oeuvre. As is common with all book launches, Konrad gave a speech. But unlike other launches, this one was short and sweet. To the wines: Malivoire showed their Pinot Noir 2003 Estate ($26), 13.8% with quality extract, their Old Vines Foch 1999 (no longer available; this was in magnum from their library), a Chardonnay 2000 Moira Vineyard (screwcap, but spectacular wine at a spectacular price $53), and a stunning Gewurztraminer 2004, that seemed to be just off the boat from Alsace ($26). Lailey brought unfortunate news: winemaker Derek reports that they lost 85% of their crop from the winter frost. The Chardonnay Old Vines 2002 (13.5%) showed great development, the Pinot Noir 2004 (12.5%) was a little light, the Cabernet Franc 2002 (13%) was herby as expected and showed well under Canadian oak, and the Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (13%) was fleshy and heavy, finishing with tannic elegance. Frog Pond is an organic winery, and they bottle all their wines in half- litre bottles. The Cabernet-Merlot 2001 had good depth for $16, and the equally good Cabernet-Merlot 2002 (also $16) was still tannic in its development. Lenko had its Chardonnay 2004 (13.7%, sur lie six months, no oak, no malolactic fermentation, $20), its Chardonnay Signature 2002 French Oak (13.4%, $39.95 and worth every penny for its intensity: the vineyard has been producing since 1959), a Viognier 2004 (13.7%, no ML, very floral and good length, off-dry fabulous wine with an old world feel..Condrieu anyone?), and Cabernet Franc 2002 (12.1%, smoky tobacco). I tasted Viewpointe Winery, a newly licensed place in Lake Erie North Shore, but its wines will not be available for sale until next year. I had tank and barrel samples of Cabernet Merlot ($20 – 25 range) and Cabernet Franc ($15 – 20), and they were just splendid, the 2002 showing well in its softness and depth. I did not try Stratus or Colio because Colio is covered above and Stratus wines were tried last month (they had no new offerings). As a quality wine and food event at a book launch, I must give this one 9.5 out of 10. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2005 – Churchill Cellars and EDO on Eglinton put together a presentation on the wines of D’Arenberg (from Australia) with contemporary Japanese cuisine. We had a range of wines that were to be released through the LCBO over the coming month, played off against a specially designed EDO menu created by Executive Chef Ryo Ozawa. Chester d’Arenberg Osborn, the Chief Winemaker, was here, and he spoke to each wine. With the hors d’oeuvre seared tuna (mustard-miso- vinegar dressing) and vegetarian rice paper roll (sesame sauce) we were served The Stump Jump 2004 white (42% riesling, 40% sauvignon blanc, 18% marsanne with proportions changing each vintage; screwcapped) with its compelling sipper quality, and The Stump Jump 2004 red (grenache 50%, shiraz 26%, mourvedre 24%; cork finish) with its juicy upfront fruit forwardness. Both wines came out in August at Vintages, and are now sold out. Maybe next year. With the appetizer of smoked salmon and scallop with cherry essence we had The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (+656546, $17.95 screwcap) made up in a fruitier North American style, and it did indeed capture the essence of the scallop. The Olive Grove Chardonnay 2004 from McLaren Vale was also served (+702845, $16.95 screwcapped, good balance for the price) and went better with the salmon. On to the Land Course and the arrival of the red heavy hitters. First up was d’Arry’s Original 2002 (half grenache and shiraz, McLaren Vale, +661660, $48.95 in magnums) which the company once sold as “Burgundy”. It was ripe, fruity, full of black currants and black berries, good length. It nicely accompanied the braised ground kobe beef (from Alberta). Other wines served included The Football Shiraz 2002 McLaren Vale (+661660, $49.95 in magnums, MVC nose, typical complex chocolate-spices-peppers), The Custodian Grenache 2002 McLaren Vale (+713040, $20.95, a year in new and old French and US oak), The Laughing Magpie Shiraz 2004 (+936971, $26.95, with 6.5% viognier added for extra aromatics, a great fruity sipper), The Galvo Garage 2002 (+907584, $26.95, a Bordeaux blend of cabernets, petit verdot, and merlot, showing mint and red fruit and some anise), and The Dead Arm 2003 Shiraz McLaren Vale (+981183, $54.95, full, ripe, rich and delicious, with intense concentration, aged almost two years in both old and new US and French oak barriques and cask). In between we wedged in the Water Course of roasted freshwater eel with a pesto sauce. Even with a noon start, it was well towards three when we finished. For more details about the wines, call Churchill Cellars at 416-368- 5108 or visit www.churchillcellars.com As a wine luncheon, this function for the wine press rates 9 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2005 – Authentic Wine and Spirits Merchants brought over Robert Edwards of Peter Lehmann wines of Australia, to host a press tasting at the LCBO Scrivener Square this morning. There were about a dozen wines in the lineup, and here are some notes: * Peter Lehmann Barossa Semillon Chardonnay 2003 (+610717 General, $11.95) is unoaked, fruit driven, citric finish suggesting seafood or first course aperitif. The 2004, soon to be in the stores, had more semillon (84) to chardonnay than the 2003, slightly more off-dry flavours. *Peter Lehmann Barossa Chardonnay 2004 (+611459 General, $14.95) is 10% BF in French oak, no ML, lean and appley. * Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz Grenache 2003 (+610725 General, $14.95) was a 51/49 blend, yet the shiraz completely overrides the grenache. Good sipper or aperitif. * Peter Lehmann Barossa GSM 2002 (+650028 Vintages November, $17.95) is a blend of one-third each grenache, shiraz, and mourvedre. A bit Rhone in style, medium bodied, excellent length, best with food. The 2003 was more aromatic and warmer, with more grenache tones. * Peter Lehmann Clancy’s 2003 (+611467 General, $17.95) was a blend of shiraz (43%), cabernet sauvignon (42%), merlot (15%), and cabernet franc. A very ripe and elegant style; the blend will vary from year to year. This is the largest selling red wine in the North American market for Lehmann. * Peter Lehmann Barossa Cabernet Merlot 2003 (+621615 General, $15.95) is a 70/30 blend, great fruit with an exceedingly long length. After a time, nose became more Bordeaux-like. Value wine. * Peter Lehmann Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+605741 Vintages December, $19.95) is a cool climate cabernet since 2002 was the coolest vintage on record in Barossa. Very Bordeaux like. WS gives it a 90. * Peter Lehmann Mentor 2000 (+724336 Vintages, $39.95) showed a minty cabernet sauvignon with a hot finish, full and structured. * Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2002 (+672875 General List, $19.95) had elegant finishing acids, another cool climate character from 2002. * Peter Lehmann Eight Songs Shiraz 2000 (+662056 Winter Classics, $39.95) had a great shiraz nose, some syrah style and complexity, French oak tones exhibiting richness and flavours. Best wine of the tasting. Sells for $55US nationally in USA. * Peter Lehmann The King 1987 (not available) was a port-type fortified wine with a hot finish that is supposed to smooth out by 2008. It was put in the tasting as a finishing treat. For more details about any of these wines and their availability, contain Authentic’s Douglas Ward (dward@awsm.ca) or 905-238-0716. As a sitdown wine tasting event, I’d put this at a 9 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2005 – It’s just a modest walk downtown from Scrivener Square to La Maquette for the Southbrook Winery Wine Tasting and Lunch. Bill Redelmeier, one of the owners, led the wine press through a tasting of new releases, followed by a lunch of dishes designed to accompany the wines. In general, Southbrook uses French oak with white wines and US oak for red wines from Bordeaux varieties. Other reds, such as pinot noir and syrah, are crafted with French oak. We started with Premium Pinto Gris 2004 ($14.95 retail), seasoned with four months in Vosges oak: it was tight but striving for the Alsatian model. The Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc 2004 ($17.95, also 4 months in oak) had a good intensity of herbaceousness. The Triomphe Chardonnay 2000 ($19.95 and under priced) has been 14 – 15 months in new and old French oak, nicely aged at this point, caramel tones. It has always been one of my personal favourites. The Triomphus Chardonnay 2002 ($49.95, aged almost two years in French oak) was compelling, but as overpriced as the Triomphe was under priced. We had a mixture of sitdown hors d’oeuvres (grilled shrimp, scallops, peppers, asparagus, mild and assertive cheeses) before moving on to the reds. The Watson Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2001 ($24.95, 14% alcohol, aged 16 months in US oak, showed MVC and was definitely a food wine. The Triomphe Cabernet Merlot 2001 ($24.95) spent a year and a half in US oak, and the Triomphus Cabernet Merlot 2002 ($49.95) spent 23 months in US oak. Both wines had both cabernets and merlot. My preference would be for the warmer 2002 wine. A real stunner was the Triomphus Syrah 2004 ($49.95, not yet released) with ten months in French oak. We had barrel samples, and while so far it was taut and tight, it was also more syrah than shiraz right now. Duck confit and baby arugula picked up nuances of all the red wines. With dark chocolate truffles, we were introduced to the Triomphe Vidal Icewine 2003 ($39.95 half bottle), apricot candy in a bottle. For more details about Southbrook wines, call Bill at 905-832-2548. As a wine and food luncheon, this one also rates 8.5 out of 10. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2005 – The Wine Writers Circle of Canada held its 20th Anniversary dinner at Grano’s. Roberto Martella put on a grand spread for us (and yes, we did pay for the meal). Most members brought a 1985 vintage wine (white, red, and ports). For the toast we had some 1988 Krug Champagne from Diageo. It was delicious, and of course it is my favourite champagne. At the reception beforehand, we had a chance to try some New Zealand wines that Robert Ketchin had cellared for us, on the expectation that we might one day taste some “aged” New Zealand reds. The overall winner, most of us agreed, was The Crossings Pinot Noir 2002 from Marlborough, very Burgundian and well-aged. Similar was Nautilus Pinot Noir 2002. Murdoch James Estate Blue Rock Pinot Noir 2002 showed all cloves. The Mills Reef Merlot Reserve 2002 from Hawkes Bay showed good Bordeaux relief, as did the CJ Pask Reserve Declaration Cabernet/Malbec/Merlot 2002. Kudos to Ketchin and Grano’s for their hosting character. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2005 – After the WWCC dinner, I slept in, got up, and went to a special tasting at Il Mulino. Le Sommelier (www.lesommelier.com) were showing wines from three of their principals: Chateau Gilette (Sauternes), Donatella Cinelli Colombini and Fanti San Filippo (both Brunellos). The tasting was conducted by Zoltan Szabo and John Szabo (www.szaboandsazabo.com), new guns in town specializing in workshops (Fairmont Royal York, Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Beerbistro, Il Mulino, et al). Our tasting was hosted by Il Mulino’s Michael Pagliaro (www.ilmulinorestaurant.com), Szabo and Szabo, and Le Sommelier. The wines were paired with selected amuse- bouche. Six wines were featured; here are some notes: * Chateau Gilette Demi-Sec 1954 ($325 retail, for 750 mL) and Chateau Gilette Crème de Tete 1979 ($241 retail, for 500 mL) were the highlights of the morning. The mix is about 85% semillon, 8-10% sauvignon blanc, and 2-5% muscatel. The Demi-Sec is made in years when there is not enough botrytis. It has the same handcrafted process as the Crème. The off-dry wine now spends about 20 years in sealed concrete vats before being bottled. 1954 had an intense nose, shades of marmalade, slightly bitter on the mid-palate, full body, and drying out nicely, ending with a good bitterish finish. Almost an amaro with its orange bitterness. The Crème is made from botrytis affected grapes, hand selected. Initially, it had a low nose, but then the botrytis kicked in. It had more bitterness on its palate than the demi-sec did, and more muscatel grapey complexity. Marvelous wines, makes you look sharp and feel sharp. We had salmon and mascarpone on toast, and carpaccio and Grana Padano on toast. With the demi-sec, the salmon disappeared on the tongue. The carpaccio was an excellent match. With the Crème, it was the reverse. The salmon, juicy, was complemented by the wine, but the carpaccio dropped off the radar in mouthfeel. Foie gras and a caramelized pear were sent out by the kitchen, and worked well with both wines, perhaps a bit better with the Crème. A quick bit of water and bread, and we pushed on to the Brunellos… * Fanti San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 2000 ($73.50 retail) had a soft nose, red berryish, full firm textures, French oak aromas (which dominate), hot finish (14.5% alcohol. Needs cellaring. From a difficult year. * Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino “Prime Donne” 2000 ($81.50 retail): the Prime Donne project is a Brunello designed by an all-female team of international wine experts. This is the first all- female-run winery in Italy (19 hectares)’ all the promotion and public relations staff, tasters, marketers, are women. The 2000, from a hard year, appears to be very soft; it may be entering a dumb period. It certainly needed time to open. It was bottled June 2004, after 2 years in French and Slavonian oak. * Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino “Prime Donne” 1999 ($81.50 retail) is a far better bottle, principally from a far better year. Fruit emphasizes the black colour (berry, cherry), a certain softness which belies 13.5% alcohol, definitely “global” style that would appeal to North Americans. Dare I say feminine? New style Brunello, ready sooner than ever before. * Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998 ($78) seems to rely on elegance and finesse and black fruits (berry, cherry), even some fennel (this is Italian!). Big bodied, ready now for restaurants to serve. My favourite red of the tasting, mainly because it is ready now. Not part of the Prime Donne project. With the red wines, Chef Allan Hilario sent out a compelling wild mushroom and smoked duck risotto, which meshed nicely. Some tartness was now showing on the 2000 Prime Donne but it was absorbed by the duck; a good food wine. For more details about the wines, check with Bernard at Le Sommelier (416-603-7026) or the website. As a quality sit-down wine and food event, I’d give this 9.5 out of 10. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2005 – Riding the Red Rocket, I found that it was a breeze to get to the Wine Australia Wine Fair at the National Trade Centre – East Galleria. The afternoon trade show was augmented by a Press Preview station which allowed us some peace to try some of the wines. The show itself seemed spacious and well-lit; I certainly liked the surroundings and I would encourage the staff to put it on again next year in the exact same quarters. 75 wineries (and their agents) showed over 400 wines. I did not try them all, of course. I eschewed the usual. The catalogue was fine, only lacking prices. Here are some notes: One of the best sections of the show was B and W Wines (bwwines@bwwines.com) or 416-531-5553. They put out a range from Penley Estate Coonawarra (Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $64.95 licensee, excellent length and flavour, dense fruit; Special Select Shiraz 2002, $64.95, equal quality; Hyland Shiraz 2002, $24.95, gobs of fruit stuffed into 14.5% alcohol bottle; Estate Chardonnay 2003, $23.95, tropical chunkiness but lightly wooded) through Jansz NV Brut ($22.95) and Henschke Tilly’s Vineyard Semillon Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc (+656264, April 2006, $25.60) and Keyneton Estate Euphoniam Shiraz Cabernet Merlot (+720433, April 2006, $49.95). Langmeil Valley Floor Shiraz 2003 ($27.95 licensee) and Langmeil Three Gardens Shiraz Mourvedre 2003 (+644047, $21.95) were well-appointed affordable wines. Longview Blue Cow Chardonnay 2004 ($22.95) was unwooded, while Longview Devil’s Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (+660050, $27.95) was taut enough that it demanded food. Rockford Semillon 2001 (+740050, Dec Vintages, $32.50) was voluptuous. The Basket Press Shiraz 2001 ($74.95 licensee) was full and ripe. The Moppa Springs Mataro/Shiraz/Grenache 2000 blend ($34.95 licensee) was 2/3 grenache in a Rhone mode. The Rockford Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($49 licensee) was equally stunning. I spent about an hour running through these tables (table dancing?), even trying the lower priced Pirramimma McLaren Vale (good Reserve Shiraz for April 2006 +987784, $23.95), the good value Stonehaven (I liked the excellent length of the Limestone Coast Shiraz 2002 for $26.95 and the soft, coherent fruitiness of the Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 for the same price) and the Lillypilly line from Riverina region. I tried to stay limber by criss-crossing the room a lot. Many wines stood out. I enjoyed the juicy Avonmore Estate Shiraz 2001, the Bridgewater Mill Chardonnay 2002, the De Bortoli Petite Sirah 2003 (good wood), the Deen Vat 8 Shiraz 2003 (aging okay), the Deakin Estate Shiraz 2004 Victoria, the Grant Burge Balthasar Shiraz Viognier 2003 and the Filsell Old Vines Shiraz 2001, the Hamilton Ewell Railway Chardonnay 2002, Heath Wines Old Vines Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($51, very warm and friendly) and Heath Wines Old Vines Shiraz 2003 ($56, The Case for Wine), Kangarilla Road Viognier 2004 (very fruity), Bernoota Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($26, Rogers), Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth 2001 (14%), Rosemount Balmoral MV Syrah 2000 (soft fruit forward, a bit Rhonish), St. Hallett GST Grenache/Shiraz/Touriga 2004 (ripe, 15% alcohol, eight months on lees in French oak), Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 1998 (Hunter Valley complexity, good aging quality), Vasse Felix Haytesbury Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 and the simple 2002 showed good Bordeaux character, Wirra Wirra Church Block Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2003 (screwcap, good blend), and both the Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2005 and the Zilzie Viognier 2004 were outstanding examples. I was much impressed with Barossa Valley Estate E & E Black Pepper Shiraz 2000 (and who wouldn’t be at $100 a pop?), but I was equally persuaded by its less expensive Ebenezer Shiraz 2000. As a wine trade show event, I’d rate this a 8.4 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2005 – This afternoon it was “Old Vines, New Wines” from Spain, a trade tasting held at Hart House mid-day (followed by a consumer tasting in the afternoon). The food buffet has always been an annual highlight, with regional specialties and cheeses, and plenty of garlicked shrimp. This year it was even better: they put the food OUTSIDE the Great Hall so that we didn’t have to smell it as we tasted. The catalogue, while oversized and difficult to maneuver, did contain prices and CSPC numbers; it needs to be smaller in shape so that we can write in it while holding a glass. I did not try every wine; I eschewed the ordinary. Here are some notes on my favourites – I thought that Campo Viejo Reserva 2000 Rioja, with its blend of tempranillo, graciano, and mazuelo, was particularly good value for soft fruity developing textures (+137810, $17.45). Faustino I Gran Reserva 1995 Rioja, from the same grape varieties, was an astounding value for this quality at $31.95; unfortunately for us right now, it won’t be in Vintages until February 2006 (+976662). CVNE Reserva 2000 Rioja (temp., garnacha, graciano) showed red fruit and depth (+652461, $26). Piqueras Castillo de Almansa Seleccion 2000 Almansa (garnacha, syrah, tempranillo, monastrell) was off-dry fruity (+586719, $19.95). Gandia Gran Verema Old Vines 2000 Utiel-Requena (all tempranillo) was soft and warm, aging well (+660548, $14.95). Finca Valpiedra 1999 Rioja (+959049, $29.95) was outstanding, as was Real Irache 1996 Navarra (+657411, $25, a bargain price). Torres Mas la Plana Penedes (+617456, $39.95) is 100% cabernet sauvignon, and subsequently dense and taut. Muga Gran Reserva Prado Enea 1996 Rioja (+743310, $60) was a classic study in raisins and prunes. The lesser priced Muga Reserva 2001 Rioja (+976928, $21.95) was just a minor step down in quality; it was a bargain. Pago de los Capellanes Joven Roble 2003 Ribera del Duero (+718296, $19.95) is supposed to be an InStore Discovery in the future; it was fully rich and ripe, with tempranillo, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Vini Albali Gran Reserva 1997 Valdepenas ($18, consignment from Diamond Estates) was all tempranillo; its fruit was still tight, better with food. Emina Crianza 2002 Ribera del Duero (+993220, $18.50) showed much new wood in its all tempranillo bottle. Valtravieso Reserva 1999 Ribera del Duero was my overall favourite in the show: it had tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot in the blend, was superb in the mouth, with a long glorious finish. It was only $25, available from Ne Plus Ultra (416-964-8180). Some of the more expensive wines I tasted, and enjoyed, were not indicated for availability now or in the near future, according to the agents or the catalogue. All have the potential for private order or consignment. These included such fabulous wines as Marques de Riscal Baron de Chirel Reserva 2001 Rioja ($72), CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva 1996 Rioja ($55), Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva 1995 Rioja ($40), Protos Seleccion 2001 Ribera del Duero ($58), Torres de Anguix Reserva 2000 Ribera del Duero ($50), Navarsotillo Magister Bibendi Seleccion Especial Graciano Rioja ($30), Terra do Gargalo Carbello 2001 Monterrei ($25), Luis Canas Hiru Tres Racimos 2002 Rioja Reserva ($125), Luis Canas Rioja Reserva 1998 ($25), Vina Extremena Corte Real Platinum 2000 Ribera del Guadiana ($56), Pago de los Capellanes Parcela El Picon 1999 Ribera del Duero ($275: most expensive wine at the show), Santiago Ijalba Ogga Reserva 2000 Rioja ($60), and Freixenet Morlanda Red 2002 Priorat ($69). For more details about the availability of Spanish wines in Canada, email Toronto@mcx.es. As a wine trade show event, this one gets a 9 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2005 – Another heavy day, the sixth day in a row I am exposed to lots of food and wine. Unfortunately today I have three major events in a row (a trade show, a portfolio tasting, a winemaker dinner), beginning at 2 PM and ending well-past midnight. Tomorrow, it is off to Vintages to taste another 100 or so products. The Seven Wine Producers of Portugal came to town, at the Windsor Arms. So we could also count on great hors d’oeuvre. The tasting this afternoon is only for about 50 products. Most wine trade tastings are for 180 or more wines, and I cannot get to taste them all. I usually taste about 50. So THIS tasting was perfect: I tasted everything! The seven wineries are: Alianca, Aveleda, Bacalhoa (formerly JP Vinhos), Finagra-Herdade do Esporao, Jose Maria da Fonseca, Messias, and Sogrape. Here are some notes: * (PMA)Alianca Quinta das Baceladas 2001 Beiras ($29), with 50% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, and 5% baga for intensity. A great blend, albeit in the North American mould. * Alianca Quinta da Terrugem 2001 Alentejo ($25) was more to my Euro sensibilities, with its blend of tempranillo (70) and trincadeira (30); it had aged well. * (Maxxium) Quinta da Aveleda Quinta da Aguieira Touriga Nacional/Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Beiras ($20) has been submitted to Vintages; it is a fine ripe example of the state of Portuguese wines today. * (FWP) Bacalhoa Quinta da Bacalhoa 2001 Terras da Sado ($31), an excellent food wine with its cooler version of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. * Palacio da Bacalhoa 2001 Terras do Sado ($43) was the same kind of blend, but at the reserve level. * Bacalhoa Tinto do Anfora Grande Escolha 2001 Alentejano ($35) was a Euro blend of tempranillo, trincadeira, Touriga, and alfrocheiro. * (FWP) Herdade do Esporao Private Selection 2001 Alentejo ($55) had 75% alicante bouschet and rest tempranillo. It was my fave of the tasting, although it had 15% alcohol. * Herdade do Esporao Reserve 2002 Alentejo ($26.50) was a blend of trincadeira (30%), tempranillo (40%), and cabernet sauvignon (30%). * (Dandurand) Fonseca Periquita Classico 2001 Terras do Sado ($26.95, Vintages) was of course 100% castelao at the reserve level, great with a meal. * (Messias) Douro Quinta do Cachao Tinta Roriz 2003 ($17.95) showed massive wood and fruit, sweet vanilla for the North American style and taste. * (Charton-Hobbs) Sogrape Gazela 2005 Vinho Verde, was very young but very good. Good sparkling component, just bottled, 9% alcohol, first Euro 2005 wine I’ve had. For more details about Portuguese wines, call William Delgado at the Portuguese Trade & Tourism Commission (416-921-4925). As a wine trade show event, I have to give it a 9.6 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2005 – The Small Winemakers Collection held its monthly “portfolio” tasting this afternoon, in its new quarters down the hall at 100 Broadview. The green toned walls in the office area are simply “stunning” as one staffer told me. Otherwise, the Tuscan/Provencal colours work really well. The bar comes from the old Tastings Room restaurant, and comes with foot rests. The food/nibbles incorporated some really powerful cheese, some of it smoked. Here are the outstanding wines: * Cellier des Chartreux Viognier 2004 Vin de Pays du Gard ($16.25): floral, good price for delicious mouthfeel and lingering finish. * Zahel Nussberg Grand Reserve 2004 ($30), a white from Austria, 14% alcohol, with riesling-traminer-muscat-gruner veltliner in the mix (plus 5 others: nine grapes in all!). Nutty, off-dry, muscular wine, very aromatic. * Villa Marianna Salice Salentino Reserva 1999 Puglia ($14.30) is well- balanced, well-priced, very good negroamaro character. * Frederic Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos de la Justice” 2002 ($54.95, Vintages): opens quickly, voluptuous fruit showing, developing well, ready soon. 13% alcohol. * Mandolin Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 California ($14.95): soft, fruity, useful patio/winter sipper, more like merlot but with some punch. * Terranoble Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2002 Chile ($16.90): leaner than the Mandolin, good fruit for meals, excellent finish and price. * Graceland Merlot 2003 Stellenbosch ($25.60): tight merlot fruit, classic, good finish, food driven Euro style. We also tried two Spanish heavyweights, Mas d’En Gil Coma Vella 2002 Priorat ($48, m14% alcohol, with garnacha, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, 12 months in oak, accessible now, creamy caramel finish) and the Clos Fonta 2001 ($90) made from similar blend but of old vines, sweet tannins from the wood, needs time and food to come around). Both are only Special Orders, and are not yet landed. For more details on these wines and other wines in their portfolio, call the Small Winemakers Collection at 416-463-7382 or www.smallwinemakers.ca. As a wine portfolio event, this one rates 8.7 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2005 – It is not much of a walk from Broadview and Queen to JK on Church. The next function is a Portuguese Winemaker dinner following on the G7 tasting from earlier in the day. There is an assortment of winemakers, agents, LCBO, and the wine press here. Even Jamie Kennedy himself was pressed into service, to slice the salmon. In the midday tasting, the executive chef of the Windsor Arms was cutting the Parma ham (apparently one has to go to school for three years to learn how to cut cured meats)…All of the wines were young; there were no Garrafeira. And indeed, we had wines not offered at the trade show. For the reception we had two sparklers, the Messias Baga/Chardonnay Brut and the Alianca Reserva Brut, with accompanying blinis and roe, and sliced salmon. The oyster stew with diced potato was accompanied by the Aveleda Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2004, which was aromatic with surprising body. Smoked salmon (maple syrup) with leeks had a good smokey complexity; it was served with a Domini Plus Douro 2001 and Tinto da Anfora Grande Escolha Alentejo 2001, both magnificent. The corn porridge with duck (leg confit, liver, breast slice) and apple was the highlight of the meal, served with Quinta do Cachao Touriga Franca Douro 2003 and “T” Quinta da Terrugem Alentejo 2002 (new oak in the latter, definite NA appeal). Up next was caribou with cabbage packages (savoy cabbage with winter beans, pork belly, carrots inside), and the delightful Esporao Private Selection Alentejo 2001 (better with food) and the Callabriga Douro 2003 (soft). Offley 20 Year Old Tawny port appeared with some Canadian artisan cheeses, the J.P.Moscatel de Setubal 1996 with the layered apple tatin, and the Alambre Moscatel de Setubal 20 Years Old with the marjolaine and poached apricot. For those of us who stayed, Adega Velha was poured with the coffee. As a wine dinner, this one has to top out at 9.6 out of 10. PRODUCTS TASTED IN SEPTEMBER 2005 * J.M Sohler Tokay Pinot Gris Grand Cru Winzenberg Vendanges Tardives 1999 ($48.45 licensee from Le Sommelier, +831636): 13% alcohol, decadent, slightly off-dry demi-sec, rich and glorious in the mouth with honeysuckle tones, and some wood in evidence. Hand-picked. * Budai Cuvee Nyakas Pince 2003 Hungary (+936476 Vintages, $12.95) is made from chardonnay and Irsai oliver grapes, the latter being indigenous. It is light and fruity, a sipper for late summer with a bit of off-dry character. A nice blend of acid (for food) and floralness (muscat quality). It has been in Vintages before. * Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (Marlborough, NZ) +677450 Vintages, $19.95: grassy tang, but off-dry floral complexity, with a long engaging finish. 13.5% alcohol. Produced by the guys who originally brought you Cloudy Bay before it was sold to LVMH. Screwcapped richness with limes. Fabulous price. * Szigetvin Matraaljai Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Chateau Kurdi Hungary (+655332, $12.95 Vintages) has softer fruit than expected, more in the merlot vein with only 12% alcohol. A light sipper, aperitif wine? Another repeater in Vintages. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR AUGUST, 2005 THURSDAY, AUGUST 11, 2005 – French Rabbit in Tetra Pak containers was launched today at the King Edward Hotel, with a noon time luncheon. The LCBO held a joint news conference with French wine maker Boisset, the first vintner to respond to the LCBO’s challenge to global winemakers, to offer vintaged wines in innovative, environmentally-friendly packaging. The French Rabbit line will ultimately be offered world- wide, but right now it is an Ontario exclusive: three wines (Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon) available in litre Tetra Paks. Consumers get a free third of a bottle because of the compactness of the Tetra Pak: a 750 mL bottle sells for the same price as a litre Tetra. Amongst all the speeches from LCBO honchos, Boisset, and Corby execs (they’ve got the agency rights), there was the president of Tetra Canada who said that 1.6 billion litres of wine were packaged in Tetra cartons around the world last year. At last: the LCBO is with it! To emphasize that there is little difference, or that the Tetra might just taste fresher, there was a blind taste comparison between the bottle and the pak. I could not tell any difference between the samples, although I felt the Cabernet Sauvignon, which showed good varietal character, seemed fresher and more ready from the pak. Since these are not wines you’d want to lay down anyway (even under cork), then they become useful quaffers at affordable prices. Each is $12.95, and in keeping with press kits from large firms, there is no mention of a CSPC number. Nor has the product been made available for press tastings in the LCBO lab. Still, the buffet lunch was phenomenal, with a variety of cheeses, pates, cold cuts, appetizers, salmons. As a wine and food event, I’d give this one 8.5 out of 10. TUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2005 – Rick Sayre, Chief Winemaker for Rodney Strong Vineyards, and his PR person Michelle Prinz visited Toronto to lead tastings, have a winemaker dinner, and make pitches at the LCBO. Vintages have released a number of Rodney Strong wines. Jeff Davis, another wine writer colleague, and I had a two-on-one luncheon at Adega, tasting some nine wines. Mark Anthony Wines is the Ontario agent. Rick cut his winemaking teeth at Simi before taking over at Rodney Strong. He has control over 931 acres of vineyards and half a million cases. 55% of this production comes from long-term contracts. He has twice as much inventory for the reserves and late bottlings as for the regular premium wines. He makes 13 different wines in all (3 chardonnay, 4 cabernet sauvignon, others with sauvignon blanc and merlot and zinfandel and pinot noir). Here are some notes from the mainly seafood lunch: - Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Charlotte’s Home Sonoma County, 13.67% alcohol, 10% BF for vanilla and smoothness. Light nose, off-dry palate fruity, no austerity, lower acid levels. $17.50 June Vintages. - Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2002 Sonoma, 13.8% alcohol, consignment $19.95, US oak. One of my favourite chardonnays, I always buy it whenever I can. From the RR Russian River Valley, it is also restaurant-ready. Different lots are in the blends. 100% MF, 43% BA. Citric tones and vanilla. No price increase over last year. - Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2003 Sonoma Chalk Hill, $24.95 Consignment. 10 months on the lees, full ML, French oak. Burgundian in style, elegant. - Rodney Strong Pinot Noir 2002 Russian River, 13.8% alcohol. The 2001 is in Vintages at $19.95. Sturdy, everyday, lighter pinot with intensity on the mid-palate. - Rodney Strong Zinfandel 2001 Knotty Vines Sonoma, $18.95 consignment, 14.62% alcohol. 24% French oak, balance US oak, some new. Round, smooth, soft, quaffing even. Surprising for a high alcohol wine. Bright. - Rodney Strong Merlot 2001 Sonoma $24.95, consignment, 13.8% alcohol. Soft, fruity and reflective. - Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Sonoma, 13.8% alcohol, $24.95 Showed its soft cassis suppleness. Principally from the Alexander Valley (86% cabernet sauvignon, rest merlot, cabernet franc, petite sirah, syrah), and ready for the diner. - Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Alden Vineyard, 14.08% alcohol, $39.95, only 3000 cases made. Aged two years in 59% new charred US oak, balance new French oak. 2% merlot added. Red fruit and berries dominate, slight mint on the finish. Good depth. Elevation over 300 metres. Made since 1991. - Rodney Strong Symmetry 2000 Alexander Valley, 13.9% alcohol, $80. First made in 1996. A Meritage wine with 62% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 11% cabernet franc. Aged two years in 27% new French and rest new US oak. Only the best wines are used here, selected after barrel aging. Wines are aged for two years in bottle before being released. The profile is one of black fruits (cassis, plums, even dark chocolate), dense, tannic fruit at this point (coats the palate), but good integration of everything. Bodes well for the future. For more details, check with Dan Shorrocks of Mark Anthony at 905-238- 6731 or dshorrocks@markanthony.com. As a wine and food event, this lunch rates 9.2 out of 10. NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS SLIM MONTH Chateau des Charmes Riesling Estate 2003 ($15.95, +277228) is the inaugural vintage of the estate version of this wine. 13% alcohol, winner of the Ontario Wine Awards 2005 Gold Medal for Dry Riesling. Definitely in the Alsatian mode, bright minerals with lots of body. Vendange California Chardonnay 2004, $6.95 for 500 mL (+621565) comes from Canandaigua Wine Company (Constellation). It’s in Tetra Pak, having been launched in Alberta and USA earlier this year, scooping the LCBO pitched call. Good quaffing white for picnics, with varietal character of apples, pears, and vanillin tones. Good length too. Like the French Rabbit, it is lightweight with a plastic screwcap. Just squeeze the air out and the pak will retain its freshness. Best size for a picnic; easy to chill. Vendange California Shiraz 2003, $6.95 for 500 mL (+621540) also comes in a Tetra Pak. It shows varietal character, albeit California syrah. Not as interesting as its sister Chardonnay, but useful. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JULY 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com MONDAY, JULY 11, 2005 – One of the hottest days of the year, but because of the seasonal requirements of the press and the wine trade, we have a PORT tasting, some of the heavy-heavies of “The Fladgate Partnership” – the 2003 declared Vintage Ports – held at Reds. All ports will be available through the LCBO at sometime within the next six months. All ports were decanted a few hours before the tasting, except the Fonseca. All were tried against a whole pile of meats, quite successfully. * Croft 2003 Vintage - $125.05 – tannic but off-dry fruity finish, some acid, hot finish, lemons, some anise. Heady. Repped by Whitehall. * Delaforce - $104.30 – soft, smoother than it should be. Its elegance is ready sooner. Repped by Whitehall. * Fonseca - $136.95 – from the left bank of the Pinhao River, rich aroma, but tight and tannic, even chewy, fruit on mid-palate, good finish. Repped by Pacific Wines and Spirits. * Taylor Fladgate - $72.05 375mL, $138.85 750mL – typical Taylor nose, finishing tannins gave it a hot finish to the ripe and jammy palate. Repped by Whitehall. As a wine and food press event, this one scores 8 out of 10. THURSDAY, JULY 14, 2005 – Bastille Day in France, and what could be more appropriate than to have a French wine tasting. And not any old wine tasting, but a tasting of Vin de Pays D’Oc, the people’s wine in revolt against the excesses of the old order. In fact, the Languedoc area has turned into one of the more violent protest scenes in the past two years. All over the matter of the wine lake and what the French government is doing (or, more correctly, not doing) for the grape growers. I’m glad to say that quality did not match prices for some of the wines tasted today at the newish Brasserie Frisco. In other words, there were expensive wines here that just didn’t taste good, even in the context of good food and fine friends. It was good to find that out. Here are my top picks: * Laurent Miquel Viognier Nord Sud 2003 ($18.30, Consignment, Lifford) was exceptionally fruity. 13.5% alcohol. Some unnecessary barrel aging was done. * Domaine Monpez Les Enclos 2001 (+711374, Vintages, $18.95) took the red wine honours. It was a Bordeaux styled wine but with a good dollop of wood and fruit, some old world stylishness. Food wine. Other wines I enjoyed included Chantovent Domaine des Fees Merlot 2002 (+566210, General, $9.95) and Cabernet Sauvignon (+526970, General, $9.95) both for showing varietal character and softness (=party). Domaine la Condamine Bertrand Old Vines Merlot 2004(Consignment from Rubaiyat, $11.50) was a definite food wine. Domaine de Gourjo 2003 (Consignment from Portfolio, $13.95) showed a range of flavours based on its components syrah, mourvedre, and merlot, with the syrah dominating. As a press event, this one garners 8.5 out of 10. SATURDAY, JULY 23, 2005 – The white stretch limo (courtesy of Colio Winery) came around at 9:15 AM to pick me up and whisk me off to Fiesta Buckhorn. Because three other writers had to be picked up, we didn’t get onto the 401 until 10:19AM. And even then, we didn’t get to Buckhorn Community Centre until past 12:30PM. Traffic was impossible. But we had air-conditioned comfort to taste some of Colio’s wines. This put the other wineries at a disadvantage, but then Colio paid for the limo. I didn’t get home until about 11:30 PM, putting in a full day on your behalf…We tasted the wines in the limo, then attended Fiesta Buckhorn and tasted the other Ontario wines (where was Mission Hill this year? Their booth was empty). Then it was onto a fruit winery (Kawartha Country Wines) and thence to a caterer-gourmet shop (In a Nuttshell). Colio Wines; CEV Lily Sparkling 2003 (85% pinot noir, 15% chardonnay) was a pleasant quencher for $14.95 (+509083, at The Wine Region of Colio Estates stores), CEV Unoaked Chardonnay 2002 (+503383, Vintages September, $13.95) showed canned crushed pineapple as well as citric fruits, CEV Merlot Reserve 2002 Barrel Aged (+500447, Vintages September, $24.95) was soft, red-fruits and berries showing, ripe already, CEV Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($21.95) tasted more like the merlot but it was 100 % cab in varietal. Colio also had some Bordeaux to try, including Chateau La Tour du Pin Figeac 2001(Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe) at $58.15, lush, chocolaty, ripe and bold, slightly bitter finish; Clos Beauregard 2001 (Pomerol, $37.35) which showed good intensity and development, a terrific Bordeaux nose, and medium weight; and a regular Chateau Haut-Jarousse (Cotes de Castillon, $17.45). All wines are available through their consignment warehouse; check with davidson@coliowines.com. Now to the Buckhorn wines: it was hot, crowded and sweaty – not ideal tasting conditions for judgments. I did not get to every winery in the short time. I enjoyed EastDell Red Cabernet 2002 ($14.95, 12.5% alcohol, cabernet franc and gamay in the blend) and their Summer Rose 2004 ($9.95). Lakeview Chardonnay 2004 was good value for $10.95, as was their Cabernet-Merlot 2002 ($15.95). Vineland Estates was showing Chenin Blanc 2004 ($16.95, an engaging alternative to sauvignon blanc), an intense Semi-Dry Riesling 2004 ($10.95), and a young strawberryish Rose 2002 ($10.95, pinot meunier used). Southbrook had a Chardonnay 1999 Lailey I enjoyed, as well as a Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (with some coconut from the US oak aging). Willow Springs in Stouffville had an engaging Chardonnay 2003 ($12.95); Caroline Cellars showed an oaked Chardonnay 2002 ($11.95, 13.2% alcohol); Konzelmann had a ripe Gewurztraminer 2002 ($14.95, 13% alcohol); Maleta had a tight and firm Meritage 2001 ($25.95, good fruit in the future but needs laying down); Cilento had a good Chardonnay Reserve 2003 ($24.95, 13.5% alcohol, Vintages in November) and a Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002 ($18.95, 13%, Vintages September). From Angels Gate I tried Riesling 2004 (full, firm, off-dry, $13.95) and their fruity Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. Fielding showed some of their dynamite Chardonnay Musque 2004 (a Gold Medal at OWA, $13.45), the butterscotch Chardonnay Reserve 2003 ($27.95), and the juicy-but-tight- finish Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2002 ($35, OWA Gold Medal 2005). Kudos to Fielding for bringing out their best wines… After Fiesta Buckhorn, we ambled over to Kawartha Country Wines for a tasting. The company also produces wine jellies and wine soaps. We worked out way through a dozen wines (it’s been years since I’ve tasted a Seyval Blanc and a Geisenheim). Fruit wines included pear, peach, and apple, plus a whole category of “social” wines which had a sweet arc balanced by a sweet and citric finish. These include an unusual Pumpkin Social (13.5%), a terrific Plum 2004 (13%, $9.95 – I even bought a couple of bottles on my own nickel), a Strawberry Apple 2004 (14%, $12.95), a Cherry Social ($11.95), a great tasting Rhubarb Apple Social 2004 ($11.95), a fascinating Rhubarb Social (14%, $12.95), and even a Cranberry Social ($14.95, 13%). Full details are at www.kawarthacountrywines.ca. In a Nuttshell have fine foods, baked goods, cheese, coffees, teas and kitchenware. Chef B.G. Henry does special events catering. Chef Brian took us through a cooking demo in the back room. They offer cooking and wine classes to six people at a time, with Shari Darling leading some of the wine classes. We began with a cheese sampler, followed by two ways of doing shrimp (Spanish butter, red peppers), potato with two kinds of caviar, pork loin with cranberry relish, duck breast and foie gras, and desserts. Courses were accompanied by Colio Wines, including their exciting Pinot Grigio 2004 ($14.95) done in a fruity, off-dry style. For more details about the catering program, the classes, and the store itself, check out www.inanuttshell.com. For the day, Fiesta Buckhorn (always a great show with plenty of BBQ) rates a 9 out of 10. The Colio tastings also rate a 9 out of 10. The Kawartha Country Wines tasting was 8 out of 10, as was In a Nuttshell. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JUNE 2005 THURSDAY, JUNE 2, 2005 – It was hot, it was sticky, and the speeches were dry as dust. A perfect time for a beer…Ah, the beginning of the hot season, one of the first days of June to crash through the thirty degree mark. What better way to start than to go to the launch of the Ontario Craft Brewers. The Ontario government is giving the province’s smallest breweries $5 million to help them compete against the big guys (Labatt, Molson, and Sleeman). It should help triple their market share and create one thousand new jobs. The 25 members of the OCB now have four percent of Ontario’s beer market. By spending their money on promotion, they will raise the public’s awareness of craft beers: more advertising as well as Friday and Saturday night tastings at selected LCBO stores in Toronto (why not also Ottawa? Windsor? London?). The brewer association produces about 102 different brands of beer. Creemore, of course, is no longer a craft brewery since it was bought by Molson. But the group ranges from Black Oak in Oakville which makes a few thousand hectoliters a year, right through to Jim Brick’s brewing company, topping out at over 150,000 annual hectoliters. The launch was held at Mill Street Brewery within the Distillery District, and included a massive tasting of most of the available beers plus food from Beerbistro (buffalo burgers, pizzas made with dough fermented with spent beer yeast) and a tour of Mill Street premises. But it was hot and unfortunately crowded with many industry personnel who simply stood around and talked, obstructing myself and several other writers from trying to make the rounds of the tasting. Also, there were no spittoons in sight, so I did my slurping into a large clear plastic glass which helped clear a path for me as the revolted onlookers moved away from the splashback. Apparently, nobody in this group “tastes” beer: they just quaff it. But that’s hard to do when there are about 100 to try. I purposely avoided the stouts because of the heat, but I couldn’t pass up Mill Street’s Balzac’s Coffee Porter (5.5%), great coffee tones and chocolate, and even a caffeine buzz (which was appreciated). The best beers are always the India Pale Ales or various Bitters. I was impressed with Niagara’s Best Blonde advertising (run it in Taps magazine); too bad they couldn’t afford to run Marilyn Monroe’s picture. Typical small craft brewers I enjoyed included Wellington, Cameron (Auburn Ale), Church Key (Holy Smoke Scotch Ale, Northumberland Ale), and Black Oak (Pale Ale). But I’m a draught horse from ‘way back, so my personal favourite of the mid-day spectacular was Granite Brewery. Currently, they have eight beers on tap, and they’ll sell you 1.9 litre jugs at the restaurant/brewery (245 Eglinton Ave. East) for $11.95 plus $4 deposit. Take out service. The range is from a Peculiar, a Best Bitter, a Best Bitter Special, a stunning IPA, and a Keefe’s Irish Stout. For more information on the Ontario Craft Brewer, contact Kristen Rector at krector@jkr.ca or 416-486-2286. As a beer and food event, I’d rate this 8.2 out of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 2, 2005 – The evening opened with a bang at Panorama (51st floor of ManuLife), part of a simultaneous celebration of joie de vivre in 30 cities around the world. We all celebrated after work with “Aperitif a la francaise”. There was a wide selection of French aperitifs, champagne, pastis, beer, vodka, vermouth – plus a great menu of French foods. The drink list included Dubonnet, Lillet, Pineau des Charentes, Calvados, Grand Marnier, Hpnotiq, Narvan (yummy vanilla and cognac mix), Pernod, Noilly Prat, a variety of wines (you’d want to write home about only the Chateau de Sancerre 2003: fresh, body, long length), and the four champagnes (Piper Heidsieck, Veuve Cliquot Reserve 1998, Taittinger, Louis de Sacy). In fact, it was a great idea to have the champagnes in their own room at the back, out of the way. The other sparkler of the evening, the beer station, was unfortunately hidden behind a pillar. Mixed drinks were on the two balconies with spectacular views of the city (north and south orientations). The loud disco music chased everybody outside or to the champagne room. The food menu had suggested pairings: toasted brioche with smoked trout with the wines, smoked duck with the kir, caviar blinis and smoked salmon with the champagnes (and a coquembouche here for dessert), chocolate mousse spoons with the Navan, pissaladiere with the Pernod, and so on…22 samples of grazing in total. But where were all those French cheeses?? A fabulous night, and no one fell off the balcony. For more details on French aperitifs, contact anne.popoff@sopexa.com. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates 9 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 8, 2005 – TasteUS!, a major promotion from the U.S. Food & Beverage Alliance, exhibited its wares at the Liberty Grand. It was endorsed and presented by the U.S. Foreign Agricultural Service. The idea was to promote regional American food and wine (west, south, Midwest, northeast). Unfortunately, I was not invited to the luncheon, but I heard that it appeared to be a quiet seminar from Jim Coleman, a chef on PBS and NPR. Food was the same as later in the day, so I didn’t miss anything. Which was just as well because the Aga Khan was in town at the CNE grounds, and with an audience of 40,000, traffic on the grounds was very slow. I go by TTC anyway, and arrived on time. My nose, though, was out of joint because I had to wait 20 minutes for the luncheon to finish before I was admitted. Guys, you can do better than this… The show, lightly attended, was a walk-around tasting of food and wine. Appetizers were created by a variety of chefs (check www.tasteus.com) such as the Angus beef with grilled California figs, the vanilla cured pork tenderloin with California apricots, bison burgers on mini broche, catfish pogo, marinated sea scallops, grilled buffalo sausage, plenty of rib eyes and salmons, Hudson Valley duck breast, sweet pepper shrimp, more catfish, and so forth. Twenty-eight dishes in all, complemented by beer and wine. Unfortunately, because of quotas, there was no American cheese. And I had to feel sorry for the beer stand: the servers were out in the open air which was over 30 degrees of heat. The 50 beers, all microbrews, were phenomenal. But they were no better than the Ontario Craft beers I had last week – and they cost a lot more because they were imports. But I enjoyed Dogfish Head IPA from Delaware, Mad Hatter IPA from New Holland Brewing in Michigan, and Wolavers organic IPA. So there doesn’t appear to be any market here in Ontario for beers and cheese. The wines were, by and large, the usual California suspects, although everything was either Consignment or Vintages. I criss-crossed the wines with the food, and found that I enjoyed very much the Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 (Consignment, $45.66, Philippe Dandurand), the Cline Cellars Merlot Jacuzzi Family Vineyard 2002 (Vintages +958819, $33.85), the Ironstone Reserve Cabernet Franc 2001 (Consignment, $33.95, Lifford), and the Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2001 (Vintages +255513, $33.93). The Washington Wine Commission was there, with many wines not available here in Ontario (either not represented or available only on private order), except for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates with their Columbia Crest and Chateau labels. L’Ecole No. 41 and Gordon Brothers stood out. And then I was pleasantly surprised to see Susan and Robert and the Uncork NewYork stand, showing off Bedell Cellars Corey Creek Chardonnay 2001 Long Island ($22.95, +650853), Dr.Konstantin Frank Johannisberg Riesling 2003 Finger Lakes (Vintages August B, $22.95, +677583, very intense) and Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2001 Finger Lakes (Vintages $28.95, +589630, very full and ripe, voluptuous even). For more details on TasteUS, contact paula@praxispr.ca As a wine and food trade event, this one rates a 8 our of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 9, 2005 – A big day today with three events. The first was a South African lunch at Hy’s Steak House. We tasted a variety of shiraz/syrah lead by visiting winemaker Kevin Arnold of Waterford Estate. We sampled eight wines at the LCBO plus one of his own shiraz. This tasting might be one of series (see below for another account of South African sauvignon blanc). Waterford Estate is repped here by Diamond Estates. Laurel Keenan who looks after South African wine promotional interests plus a variety of wine writers were also tasting. We covered from the good value Indaba Shiraz 2004 (GL +630384, $10.95) through the Zonnebloem Shiraz 2003 (Vintages +652537, $14.95: very syrah-like in tannic flavours, needs food) up to the best value Delheim Shiraz 2002 (Vintages +959080, $18.95: brett-type nose, fine old finish, very Rhone-ish). The Waterford Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2002 (Vintages +595520, $37.95) was the most expensive wine in this grouping, but it showed well, like a Cote Rotie’s violets and vanilla, some underbrush. It was very similar to the Delheim (Arnold had once been winemaker at Delheim), but tasted better – even if it cost twice as much. Arnold commented on all of the wines and on the vintages since 2000. With lunch, we had some of his other wines, most notably a Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc 2004 ($15, 13.5% alcohol, all-purpose fruity white, like a tamed sauvignon blanc, made in stainless steel). This was followed by a decent Pecan Stream Cabernet-Shiraz and an exciting Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (due at Vintages in September at $29.95, 85CS/15CF, 13.5% alcohol). Laurel Keenan had provided us with exemplary notes on all of the wines (tech stuff, prices, availability, etc.) And of course all of the wines were tried against the steak house menu. For more details about South African shiraz, email keenan@propellerpr.com. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates an 8.8 our of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 9, 2005 – The second main event of the day was a tasting “Australia by the Region” meant for wine agents. This was a small tasting of about 20 wineries who were seeking representation in the Canadian markets. Wine writers were invited in order to create some buzz. Kangaroo meat was the highlight of the afternoon, as well as other food and cheese from the kitchens of the Fairmount Royal York. The venue was the Imperial Room, but it was obviously too big for the function. Nevertheless, it did me good to walk about and stretch my legs. I didn’t try hopping, for I might have been mistaken for a kangaroo. The presentation and the catalogue were great, but there’s a reason why many of these wines are not here in Canada: they either duplicate existing listings (we went through all this many years ago, with Beaujolais) or they cost too much FOB. Really, it’s nobody’s fault. But a Riesling at $A120 per case FOB is a hard sell in Ontario, as are clones of Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon. Something different is needed, such as Lambert Vineyards Pinot Gris ($A131 FOB), or Lerida Estate’s Pinot Gris ($A73.64 FOB), or Australian Old Vine Wines Chambourcin ($A96 FOB), I enjoyed Australian Old Vine Wines Shiraz 2004 ($A96 FOB, juicy), Printhie Shiraz 2004 ($A108 FOB, chocolate), or Erinka/Murdoch Hill Shiraz ($A110 FOB, intense length). Ten Minutes by Tractor Wine Co. wins the unofficial best name for a winery title today; they use wild yeast, 30% French oak, and have a bit of botrytis – this is all reflected in the price. Sunburnt Moose Wine was a close second for a name: it is owned and operated by winemaker Marcus Ansems, formerly the winemaker for many years at Creekside here in Ontario. The best Chardonnay 2004 was Edwards Vineyards ($A140 FOB, screwcapped, French oak, long length and fruit), although The Bartondale Chardonnay 2004 from Metricup/Churchview was a bargain ($A96 FOB, Burgundian in style, 14.5% alcohol, French oak). For more information about the availability of these Australian wines, contact the Australian Trade Commission at 416-323-3909, ext. 2311. As a wine event, this one rates a 8 out of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 9, 2005 – For the trifecta today, it was a short walk over to La Maquette. Here, Signature Wines and Spirits and Export Director Gabrielle Breitinger presented a vertical of Chateau de la Riviere AOC Fronsac. It was informal, allowing us plenty of space and time (and cheese) to nose, taste, and spit the wines. All the wines were available through the LCBO as an ISD series, and sell for under $40, no matter what the vintage. The Chateau owns 59 hectares, planted 82% merlot, 13% cabernet sauvignon, and 4% cabernet franc. The vines are over 35 years in age. There is cold stabilization, four weeks on the skins, and malolactic fermentation in 30% new oak barrels and in vat. Everything is aged in thirds: some in new oak, some in one year old oak, and one third in two year old oak. Production is about 16,500 cases a year. It was a shock to my palate, after a day of juicy fruit bombs (for the most part) from South Africa and Australia. I badly needed a rince bouche; agent Brian Banyard provided me with Wegeler Riesling Sekt Brut. It was greatly appreciated. We could taste the wines in any order. I began with the 2001 (+653139, $38.95, youthful, invigorating, cellar keeper), followed by the 2000 (we had a 750 mL bottle, but the LCBO is selling +653071 in magnums at $78.95, heavy, dense concentration of flavours), the 1999 (+653121, $36.95, good age and development, fine price, almost restaurant ready), the 1998 (+653113, $39.95, despite a low nose it had good flavours which kept coming on the length, food wine, my first choice of the tasting), and the 1997 (+653105, $34.95, soft and fruity, good length). The 1991 was not available for tasting, but it is at the LCBO (+653097, $42.95). For more details on pricing and availability, email bbanyard@sympatico.ca As a quality wine tasting, this one rates a 9 our of 10. MONDAY, JUNE 13, 2005 – Wine writers were treated to a mid-morning presentation and a luncheon for Australia’s Wyndham Estate wines, at the LCBO Scrivener Square Events Kitchen. Brett McKinnon, Chief Winemaker, spoke to his wines, repped in Canada by Pernod Ricard (owners of the winery). The range of a dozen wines included Bin 222 (Sparkling Chardonnay NV, $16.95, future arrival), Bin 222 Chardonnay 2004 (+93401, $11.95, all barrel fermented), Bin 777 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (+352435, $10.95, screwcap, surprisingly grassy nose for only 15% sauvignon blanc content), Show Reserve Chardonnay 2003 (+583344, $15.95, oak and coconut nose), Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+110486, $15.45, rich, ripe, fruity), Bin 888 Cabernet Merlot 2002 (+324574, $14.45, newest arrival on June 9/05, 65-35 split, 14.55 alcohol, soft fruit and chocolate, hot finish, dark plums). There was a range of different Bin 555 Shiraz, their best wine (it also won a lot of medals over the years). The 2003 is +189415, $15.45, 14.5% alcohol, dark fruit and vanilla tones. 1996 and 1998 were also tried, more mocha tones after aging, as well as a Bin 555 NV Sparkling Shiraz and a Show Reserve Shiraz 2003 ($23, a cellar keeper with coconut nose, mostly Hunter Valley fruit.) For more details on Wyndham Estates, contact karen.cutaia@pernod- ricard-canada.com. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates 8.9 our of 10. MONDAY, JUNE 13, 2005 – Then it was a scramble to get to post-lunch Grano for Duncan-Craig Wines and Spirits. They were hosting Aldo Vacca, Export Manager from Produttori del Barbaresco, who was presenting eight award winning wines of Barbaresco. There are 55 members of the co-op, 90 hectares of vines, and three million bottles. We began with a Cantina del Pino 1998 Barbaresco Ovello (the 1999 is $46.40), showing remarkable fruit and age but hot, even at this price level. This was followed by the 2000 and 2001, similarly priced, a little less in alcohol (13.5%). The wines are put up in Slovenian large oak, with about 20% going into small French oak casks. The 1999 and 2000 Langhe Nebbiolo ($22.35, upfront and fruity, reader sooner) came next, great bargains. Barbaresco single vineyards are also featured. The co-op has a series of nine vineyards. We tried the Rio Sordo (2000, 14%, 14,666 bottles all numbered) and the no longer available 1995 (13.7% alcohol, 10,211 bottles). Both were made with Slovenian oak and American oak. For more information on pricing and availability, contact ecraigmckay@yahoo.com 905-853-8929 As a wine and food event, this rates 8 out of 10. MONDAY, JUNE 13, 2005 – And then it was scramble again to get back downtown for the Cuvaison tasting at the world headquarters offices of Prevedello and Mathews International. Jay Schuppert, CEO, conducted the tasting of six wines. Cuvaison, based in Calistoga Napa, produces just under 60,000 cases (rising to 72K) of premium wine (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. Currently, all of its wines are made from its own vineyards, and exported to 30 countries. We started with Sauvignon Blanc 2004 ($24.95, future release: aromatic nose, full body, good crisp acid, California sunshine), moved to Chardonnay Carneros 2003 ($29.95, Vintages +988261: full, luscious, toasty), the Chardonnay Estate Selection 2003 ($39.95, soon to Classics Catalogue), Pinot Noir Carneros 2003 ($31.95, Vintages +714519: bright cherries, not sour, heavy fruit), Pinot Noir Estate Selection 2003 ($49.95, soon to Classics Catalogue: tamer fruit, cherries, wood), and Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($43.45, Vintages Sept. 2005 +944837, great classy MVC). Somehow, despite the savoury food friendly nature of the wines, we were served two platters of fruit-based and sugar-based desserts!! For more details about pricing and availability, contact Catia Coelho at 416-979-9153. As a quality wine tasting event, this rates 8.6 out of 10. TUESDAY, JUNE 14, 2005 – Vincor held a portfolio tasting of all the “Estate Wineries” which they own. It was mid-day at Great Cooks on Eight, in the Simpson Tower. Even CEO Don Triggs was there, albeit for a modestly short time. The tasting embraced over 60 wines from the 13 “new world” wineries. Of the Canadian wineries, I enjoyed Nk’Mip Cellars best, followed by Jackson-Triggs Okanagan. Both wineries showed depth and character, despite high alcohol of 13.6% – 13.7% levels. Vincor also produces Unity Wine, a mix of Okanagan and Niagara wines. The Chardonnay 2002 ($19.95) had both tropicality in the nose and a long good-type finish from the acid. The Cabernet-Merlot 2002 ($24.95) was equally juicy and ripe, with some good acid length. Unfortunately, because it is a Canada-wide blend, neither wine is eligible for a VQA designation. Kumala (South Africa) and R.H.Phillips (California) were entry level wines, for the most part. Goundrey (Western Australia) was both useful and off-dry, with the Chardonnay Unwooded 2004 ($13.10) showing softer fruit than expected. Kim Crawford (New Zealand) was all screwcapped, and you could really notice the aromas. Or, maybe I just think so. Osoyoos Larose, the joint venture with Groupe Taillan of Bordeaux, was still hard and rough around the edges, but it is coming along, and the 2004 is being offered at an incredible bargain of $35. The catalogue was a model of production, being spiral bound with full pricing and availability information for all of the wines. It was arranged in alphabetical order by winery name. Unfortunately, the pouring tables at the show were arranged in some arcane order which allowed the Jackson-Triggs and Inniskillin lines from both Niagara and Okanagan to be displayed together; this made it tough to compare wines from the same regions, and only showed how much better the J-T and I BC wines were over the Niagara wines. I would have preferred the whole grouping with Sumac Ridge, Nk’Mip, Hawthorne, and perhaps Hogue (Washington State) in one area. But it was not my show, and there must have been reasons. The turnout, though, seemed to be relatively light. Food, when it came, was supplied by Great Cooks on Eight. For more details about Vincor’s portfolio, contact Lewis Carroll Communications at 416-968-3845. As a wine trade event, I’d rate this one a 7.9 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 15, 2005 – A mid-day tasting at the York Event Theatre, with Jorge Pascual, President of the Jerez Regulatory Consul in Spain. This is the fourth time in recent years that the Sherry people have come through Toronto, leading seminars for licensees, the press, and LCBO product consultants. Today’s seminar started a half-hour late; few people had turned up. But more came, and it was a decent audience by the mid-way mark. Unfortunately, the delay meant that the food portion of the seminar was a bit rushed. We had seven types of sherry, ranging from a fino through amontillado through oloroso through pedro ximenez. Each was matched with a small finger-sized tapas, but these came out all at once because the food part of the presentation had to be speeded up. There was no real explanation about what the food was and why it went with a particular type of sherry. Food matches included consommé, battered shrimp, salt cod, cheese, duck confit, chicken, and a chocolate mousse. The food was good, the sherries (especially the fino and the manzanilla) were top notch, but neither the food nor the sherries were identified! What did we have? The event concluded with a list of sherries available in Ontario as of May, 2005. As a quality wine and food trade event, this rates 7 out of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 – The new Ontario Wine Week Act was promulgated and declared just in time for the Ontario VQA trade tasting. This tasting was sponsored by the Wine Council of Ontario; it was offered mid-day for the trade only. In the evening, the facilities of the Fermenting Cellar at the Distillery District were turned over to the Ontario Wine Awards for a tasting of OWA 2005 medal winners. Over 350 consumers turned out, and apparently this was a measure of its success. The trade show in the afternoon, which featured many of the same wineries but with more wines for tasting (including some non-winners) was a bit light in attendance. There must be some way to get the trade out to taste these wines, for many of them were well-priced and competitively marketed. There was even a complimentary shuttle bus between the Distillery District and Union Station, courtesy of Niagara Airbus. Wineries in the evening, which I did not get to because I couldn’t wait around for two hours (the trade show closed at 4:30, the consumer opened at 6:30) included Birchwood, Cilento, Niagara College Teaching Winery, Peninsula Ridge, and Strewn. Some of the wines served in the evening – but which were not served mid-day -- by wineries open for both time periods included Fielding Estate’s Chardonnay Musque 2004 (Gold winner, only $13.45). Instead they showed their Chardonnay 2004 ($12.95), not as aromatic but with slight wood showing. Fielding’s Gewurztraminer 2004 ($13.45) was dry in an Alsatian style. Their Pinot Gris 2004 (Silver OWA) had some residual sugar, off-dry, but fullish body ($15.95). Wineries in the day time but not at night included Cave Spring Cellars (delicious Chardonnay Reserve 2002, $19.95 and an off- dry Riesling CSV 2003 very intense, $30), Coyote’s Run, EastDell, Legends (Chardonnay 2002 Reserve, $27, layers of complexity), Stratus (off-dry woody complexity in their kicking Wildass Red 2002, $19), and Vineland Estates (nicely developed Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $18.50). The Dairy Farmers of Canada, through Kathy Guidi, provided a ton of Quebec cheese, all award winners in the past: Sir Laurier, Le Douanier, and Bleu Benedictin. Kathy provided the notes and wine tasting pairings. A fourth cheese, the commercial Borgonzola (a triple crème brie-type reminiscent of Cambazola) was also present. Maybe next year we could have some cheeses from Ontario too. Evian provided some water, Ace some breads, and local catering. Both the day and evening catalogues had problems with alphabetizing, throwing off the tasting sequence. Some of the best wine came from Chateau des Charmes with its Equuleus Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard 2001 ($30, good detail in its construction and integration, a cellar keeper Meritage Bordeaux blend), Creekside’s Cabernet 2002 (60% sauvignon, 40% franc, $12.95 General List) which was a full and firm bargain, Henry of Pelham’s Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2003 ($18.95), Inniskillin’s Montague Chardonnay 2002 ($16.95 for balance and pushing my buttons), Lakeview Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002 ($21.95, soft and fruity, long finish), Legends Chardonnay Reserve 2002 ($27, good complexity and development), Palantine Hills’ Chardonnay Neufeld Vineyard 2003 ($18, OWA Gold) and their Meritage 2002 ($15, a good value red, ready now for drinking), Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (OWA silver, $24.95), Stoney Ridge Muscat Ottonel 2004 ($14.95, off-dry and phenomenal muscat character), Strewn Merlot Terroir 2002 ($24.95, soft fruit but a backbone of wood and acid), and Willow Heights Gewurztraminer 2004 ($15, nice long finish). For more details about the VQA or Wine Council of Ontario or prices/availability from the wineries or the Ontario Wine Awards, contact sandy@forefrontcom.com. As a quality wine and food event, this one gets 8.2 out of 10. FRIDAY, JUNE 17, 2005 – At noon, wine writers assembled for a “Best of” Aperitifs and Summer Wines from France Tasting. It was at The Terrace at The Fifth, with 11 appetizers served from J.P.Challet. We got to taste 10 aperitifs, mostly from the tasting held earlier in the month at Panorama, and 17 rose wines. We tasted the table wines against the food in the sit-down portion of the walk around. And it was gorgeous weather…There was a constant cross-over between the wines and the foods. The lobster ravioli were superb, as was the grilled lamb chop with olives and onion ragout. The merguez was first-rate, as were the heirloom tomatoes and scallop carpaccio. My favourite summer sipper roses included Chateau Saint-Thibeaud Clairet 2004 from Bordeaux (+589366, $9.95), Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel Rose 2004 (+319368, $18.95, refreshing power and good length, if a little pricey), Perrin Tavel Reserve Rose 2004 (+680801, $19.95, 14% alcohol, rich and dry sipper for the price), Rene Bouchacourt Cotes de Provence Rose 2004 (+619866, $10.45), Reserve Saint Martin Syrah Rose 2004 (+386359, $8.75), and Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition Rose 2004 (+950576, $12.95). For these wines, there was a direct co-relation between price and quality. Try the under ten dollar wines for sipping or mixing; the two Tavels are great for summer meals. For more details on French wines, contact anne.popoff@sopexa.com. As a quality wine and food press event, this rates 9.2 out of 10. MONDAY, JUNE 20, 2005 – Another great luncheon with South African wines (a combination of what’s available in the province, and wines from Bouchard Finlayson). Peter Finlayson led the general tasting of South African Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays before progressing to his own wines and lunch at Four Season’s Studio Cafe. There were sixteen wines in all. We began with the Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (General +382713, $10.45), the bargain of the tasting: fresh, not the SB herbaceousness so common with other wines, first course wine. Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (Vintages +977306, $13.95) showed a lean-green, refreshing, food only palate, with high acid. Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon Blanc was unfortunately corked; the better bottles will be out at Vintages in September, at $16.25). The best Chardonnay was the Fleur du Cap 2003 (General +340406, $11.35: mellow, lots of wood tones, upfront fruit, for the woodies). The Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2003 (Vintages +717090, $21.95) was Burgundian in style, lightly elegant, high fruit, high acid. Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2002 (Consignment, Lamprecht Agencies, $24.60) had a good acid finish, matured sur lie for eight months in oak. The 2003 is virtually gone since it is being served in First Class on British Airways. The meal was off the menu. Since we were to taste a range of Pinot Noirs, Peter recommended the pistachio-crusted goat cheese and the baked salmon. I stuck with the creamless mushroom soup and Provimi liver. We began with the Hannibal 2002 (consignment, $33) composed of six varieties (sangiovese 43%, pinot noir 23%, plus nebbiolo, syrah, Mourvedre and barbera. It was Italianate in taste, almost a SuperTuscan. Great with the soup. Galpin Peak Pinot Noir Tete de Cuvee 1997 is a limited edition of a late harvest wine, great fruit, great colour. The vertical of regular Galpin Peak Pinot Noir followed. 2000 still showed a lot of wood, 2001 was a Pommard knockoff, 2002 showed the barnyard nose but it was also tannic (currently here in Ontario at $43.15 consignment), and the 2003 seemed way too young. A promising series of wines… For more details about Bouchard Finlayson wines, contact the Ontario agent lamprecht@vif.com. For more details about South African wines, contact keenan@propellerpr.com As a wine and food press event, this rates a solid 9 out of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 23, 2005 – This morning several writers car-pooled their way to Stratus Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, for a grand tour and tasting of vinous products. Unfortunately, we were not able to taste any barrel samples. But winemaker J.L. Groux took us through the vineyards (low density planting, heavy pruning, organic principles), the gravity elevators filtration system, the barrel rooms (one warm and one cold: each barrel is a separate wine for 1.5 years), the bottling line, and the retail store before beginning a tasting. The whole winery meets LEED specifications for sustainability. Stratus was founded in 2000 as a sustainable agriculture winery. It has 53 acres planted to a wide variety of grapes (13) – all the Bordeaux ones plus syrah, gamay, chardonnay, gewürztraminer, riesling and viognier. He’s going to specialize in a premium red and a premium white blend each year, using the best of different grape varieties in differing proportions. The winery intends to make a 60/40 split of reds and whites. Groux, a native of the Loire and former winemaker at Hillebrand, specializes in “assemblage” believing that complexity needs diversity. These are under the Stratus name. Other assemblages are under the Wildass name, meant for licensees only. Currently, Stratus White is $30.49, Red is $32.19, and the Wildass series is $14.40 (white) and $16.09 (red). In all cases the emphasis is on freshness. The whites are meant to be consumed within five years, while the reds should be done in under seven. Light filtration increases stability. I asked if he used wild yeasts, especially in the Wildass, and got a laughing “no” response. We proceeded to the tasting. None of the wines were actually made by Groux since his first harvest was 2004. * 2002 Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay, $32 retail: rich, ripe, voluptuous, good oak quality, lanolin, well-aged. * 2002 Stratus White, $36 retail: floral, fruity, off-dry version of Conundrum, but late harvest style of the aromatic white grape varieties such as semillon and viognier and gewürztraminer. * 2002 Stratus Red, $38 retail: heavy Bordeaux-like nose, cabernet sauvignon and franc taste, but juicy on palate, maturing quickly, food or sip. * 2001 Stratus Red: more wood toast, less fruit, more age, more European, more franc flavour. * 2000 Special Select Late Harvest Riesling, $25 retail 375 mL: 12.5% alcohol, intense riesling fruit, value. * 2000 Riesling Icewine, $69 retail 375 mL: caramel, body, good finishing acid. * Wildass Riesling 2001, $17 retail: voluptuous sipper, 11% but not very riesling-like. * Wildass Red 2002, $19 retail: fruity, young grapes, higher acid, more syrah tones, lively finish, drink now but could hold. Both the Wildass wines were available to us at lunch, held down the block at Stone Road Grille. Chef Ryan Crawford, who had trained with Stadtlander, filled us all with a selection of spiced Bras d’or oysters, grilled scallops, sliced flatiron steak with local asparagus, and a cloudberry-rhubarb pannacotta. Their wine list is exclusively Ontario VQA. For more details on prices and availability, contact suzannejanke@stratuswines.com. As a quality wine and food press event, this gets 9.1 out of 10. THURSDAY, JUNE 23, 2005 – After a long, hot and humid drive home from Stratus via the QEW, it felt good to put up my feet on a TTC subway car and reach for a long tall cool one – at the Distillery District. It was Media/Trade night at The Drinks Show 2005, and I had heard a rumour that there was some wine down there. I couldn’t find any, although there was some grape-based cognac available for sampling. That was the closest I came to the grape. North America’s only consumer show dedicated to cocktails returned this weekend. It offered cocktail enthusiasts the opportunity to indulge in a variety of tasting samples of some 100 cocktails crafted by top mixologists, some spirits having their launch this weekend (e.g., Navan vanilla and cognac, Patron tequila, etc. ). Recipe cards were available for most drinks, so you could try to replicate it at home. Over the course of the show, Dan Aykroyd came, there was an Iron Bar Chef cocktail competition, appropriate music (both canned and live), and plenty of grazing foods. The LCBO was a partner, and it offered four new cocktails using exotic flavours such as pomegranate, guava, and some other Asian influences. There were many food platters floating around, with little burgers, tostada shells, seafood, pork. I don’t think that there was anybody over 34 the night I went, and that included all manner of licensees, product consultants, pr people, liquor salespeople, and others. In general, it was a real party atmosphere and I found it too hard to concentrate. Apart from the serving staff, I was the only one working. Nevertheless, I managed to cool off with a lot of ice, and (at my age) went home to bed early. For more details about the Drinks Show and /or cocktails, contact julienne@courtneyraineygroup.com or alanna.schact@lcbo.com. As a PR party with over-the-top security and arcane rules about carrying drinks, this one rates 8 out of 10. MONDAY, JUNE 27, 2005 – The Portuguese Fenadegas Association of Producers group held a trade wine-tasting at the University Club, mid- afternoon. It was a scaled-down version of the tasting in the same place last January: not as many wineries, not as many invitees. The catalogue was better arranged too, with plenty of room for making notes. We were exposed to about 100 wines and ports from 15 producers, and to three olive oils. There did not appear to be any information about these oils – beyond a generic brochure on Portuguese olive oils. The oils were stacked with the cheeses (from variety of sources, none Portuguese) and the usual club appetizers (bacon wrapped scallops, salmon toasts). It didn’t help any when the show warmed up after the first hour. Actually, it did help: the vinho verde began to shine, especially the sparkling ones. But the ports tanked in the heat. Some of the wines I enjoyed (hardly any are here in Ontario) included Adega de Pegoes Red Selected Harvest 2003 (late harvest, thick fruit, oaky new wood), and the Fontanario de Pegoes Red DOC Palmela (eight months oak), the Castelo Rodrigo Touriga Franca DOC 2001 (very intense fruit), the Via Latina Alvarinho Vinho Verde Branco 2004 (full, fresh and luscious). The Terras de Felgueiras Vinho Verde Espumante Branco and the Tinto were sparkling wonders at 24 Euros a case FOB. A new agency – Ne Plus Ultra – had taken on the Uniao Das Adegas Cooperativas da Regiao Demarcada do Dao (UDACA), which produces about 60% of the DOC Dao wines. Ten cellars are involved. The agency was trying out a 2002 Uniao Tinto Vinho Regional Beiras, made from four or more grape varieties in a faster maturing style. Licensee price will be $39.45 for a five litre box. Call 416-964-8180 for details. For more details about these Portuguese wines, contact william.delgado@icep.pt 416-921-0259 As a wine trade show, this rates 8.1 out of 10. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MAY 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2005 – In yet another promotional venture for French wines, Languedoc-Roussillon South of France Wines, in conjunction with Sopexa, held tastings this week in Toronto and Vancouver. The 28 or so wineries had well over 100 wines on display at the trade show at the Carlu in Toronto. And the food provided was almost as spectacular as the previous month’s Alsace-Rhone show. The catalogue was generally exact, lacking only prices. But it had all the contact agents listed (although some producers were looking for agents in both Ontario and BC). Availability of the wines varied: General List, Private Orders, Consignment, Vintages, “soon”, “never”, “your guess is as good as mine”, etc. Many of the wines were Vins de Pays d’Oc, at around $10 to $14, with the usual varietals. As usual, I did not try every wine. I enjoyed Baron Philippe de Rothschild Viognier 2004 (good fruit, Philippe Dandurand, $11), Chateau Condamine Bertrand Domaine Syrah 2004 (fruit and tartness, Rubaiyat, $12), Domaine de Belle Mare Rivage Blanc 2002 (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier) and Rouge 2002 (cabernet, syrah, merlot, both repped by Vergina Imports, $17: soft fruit, well- rounded, nicely aged, some oak in the red), Laurent Miquel Viognier Verite 2004 (barrel fermented and aged six months, Lifford, $25). Some of the other, better wines, included Aimery Sieur D’Arques Autan Chardonnay 2001 Limoux (Select, $19), the off-dry Antech Cuvee Ancestrale Blanquette (Noble Estates), Chateau Roquebrun 2002 Saint- Chinian (good depth and flavour from the S-G-M blend, Rouge et Blanc, $25), Cave du Mont Tauch L’Exception 2003 Fitou (oak aged, high syrah content, Charton-Hobbs, $40), Chateaux Aiguilloux Cuvee Anne George 2002 Corbieres (syrah hit, good all round flavours and depth from carignan, Vinifera Wine Services), Chateau Condamine Bertrand Barrique 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc 2002 (Rubaiyat, $18), Chateau Coupe-Roses Orience 2003 Minervois (a heavy keeper but fruit-driven, Carriage Trade), Chateau Gleon Montanie Selection Combe de Berre 2001 Corbieres (60% syrah aged well, Carriage Trade, $15), Chateau Sainte-Eulalie La Cantilene 2002 Minervois la Liviniere (full, lush syrah and grenache, Tastevin Selection, $20), Chateau Villerambert-Julien Ourdivieille 2002 Minervois (90% grenache, rest syrah, 30 year old vines, warm and extractive, Charton-Hobbs, $52), Domaine des Aires Hautes 2003 Minervois la Liviniere (with syrah, grenache and carignan, clear quality, tannic cellar wine, A Case for Wine, $22), Domaine de la Tour Boisee Blanc 2004 Minervois (off-dry complexity, driven by muscat and marsanne, Grape Expectations, $16), Domaine La Tour Boisee A Marie Claude Rouge 2002 Minervois (50% syrah, 25% grenache, patio wine or BBQ pepper steak, Grape Expectations, $25), Laurent Miquel Bardou 2002 Saint-Chinian (hit all my buttons, best red wine of the show, 100% syrah, Lifford, $25), Chateau de Cabriac Tradition 2003 Corbieres (good mushrooms and underbrush, Dionysus, $12.95), Chateau de Cabriac Le Prieure St.Martin 2001 Corbieres (full, soft, almost North American in style, 60% syrah and 30% Mourvedre, Dionysus, $20). For more details about any of these wines or events, contact anne.popoff@sopexa.com. As a quality wine and food trade event, this one rates 9 out of 10. TUESDAY, MAY 3, 2005 – The Ontario Wine Society celebrated its Annual Dinner at 1055 Restaurant (1055 Yonge Street), now chefed and owned by Brian Vallipuram who specializes in spicy Fusion food (he was formerly at Axcess, North 44, and Oliver’s Bistro). The dinner was, of course, sold out. The wines served were from Kacaba Vineyards, owned by Michael and Jo-Anne Kacaba. It is on the Niagara Escarpment Bench in Vineland. Currently, Kacaba produces about 5,000 cases. Their goal is about 10 – 12,000 cases of premium wines, mostly developed from sustainable agriculture principles. They only farm red grapes in their own vineyards. All the white grapes are sourced from elsewhere in Niagara, with long term contracts given to growers. Beth Mischuk, one of Jim Warren’s graduate NCT students, is striving for more-fruit driven wines. The reception was called for at 6:30, but there was no room to mingle and mill about. OWS members and their guests were immediately seated with hors d’oeuvre and Kacaba Oaked Chardonnay 2000. We had a mini walnut and sweet potato ravioli with fried sage and caramelized onions, and a tartish scallop ceviche on daikon radish. Both went well with the Oaked Chardonnay 2000 (voluptuous, fruit-driven, nicely aged, $22 at the winery). Mike Kacaba popped up between courses to talk about his winery, wine styles, and to tell us about the particular wine in our glass at the moment. Of course, he answered questions and parried comments. The appetizer was terrific, one of the best that I have ever been served: goat cheese with cinnamon roasted apples, roasted sweet red peppers, pecans, and a honey-truffle vinaigrette, greens and Belgian endive. All the flavours merged with a spicy-herb consistency, greatly buttressed by the Riesling 2004 (full, firm, good acidity, price not available) which competed for our attention with the aromatic truffle flavouring (sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you)…The first course was an aromatic kingfish with South Asian flavours, Masala dosai, and Gamay pomegranate butter sauce. It was served on a crepe, all the better to absorb the pungent flavours. It was accompanied by the Gamay Noir 2002, which had lost of acid and extract and fruit (sold out); its plumminess went well with the fish. But so did the Riesling, which I retried. The main course was pan-seared New Zealand lamb loin served with red beet mashed potatoes, Japanese eggplant terrine and a Cabernet Franc reduction. It was a spicy dish. The Kacaba Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002 (very cabby, full of extract, lots of flavour developing on the mid-palate, with a dynamite explosive finish, $35) held up well initially but eventually it was overpowered by the food. The Gamay Noir did a good job here when I re-tasted it. For dessert, there was a stunning housemade banana strudel with a warm caramel sauce and rum-raisin ice cream, accompanied by Jennifer Jades Gewurztraminer Icewine 2002($30 for 200 mL), luscious with full gewürztraminer flavours, almost an Alsatian SGN. And everybody seemed to be having a wonderful, wonderful time, with plenty of dinner conversations and scarfing down of food…For more details about the Ontario Wine Society, check out www.ontariowinesociety.com. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates an 8.9. WEDNESDAY, MAY 4, 2005 – Lifford’s portfolio tasting has taken on a life of its own: there are scores of quality wines and tons of copious notes. It was held mid-day for the trade, at the Eglinton Grand event theatre, for a $20 contribution to charity. Cheeses were provided by Alex, and there were plenty of opportunities for sampling and trying food and breads with the wines. In addition, many of the principals came to Toronto just for this tasting. Producers included Kaesler Barossa (Stonehouse Shiraz 2003, $32.50 licensee, and great stuffing), Dutschke Barossa (St.Jakobi Shiraz 2002, $35), Shingleback McLaren Vale (The Gate Shiraz 2002, $34.95, soft fruit), Hollick Coonawarra (a stunning Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $49.95), Felton Road Otago (Chardonnay BF 2003, $39.95, screwcapped, fresh and oaky), Wither Hills Marlborough (Chardonnay 2002, $25.95, very good), Mitchell Clare Valley (very impressive Watervale Riesling 2004, $19.95, and an excellent Semillon 2002, $19.95, with one-third BF and wild yeast), Cullen Margaret River (Ellen Bussell White 2003, $19.95, screwcapped blend of 63% semillon, 32% sauvignon blanc, and 5% verdelho), Craggy Range Hawke’s Bay (Merlot Gimblett Gravels Vineyard 2002, $42.50, smooth as velvet and silk), Oliverhill McLaren Vale (Jimmy Section Shiraz 2003, a Bob Parker monster but approachable, $42.50), Smith and Smith Adelaide Hills (M3 Chardonnay 2003, $33.50, balanced Burgundian character), Staete Landt Marlborough (Chardonnay 2003, $27.95, all French toasted oak). Other New World wines included Vina La Rosa Central Valley Chile (La Capitana Chardonnay 2003, nine months French oak, $14.95 bargain, or the Don Reca Chardonnay 2003, in even more oak, $19.95), Cakebread Cellars (Chardonnay 2003, a pricey but extremely enjoyable $57.50; Merlot 2002, $85, soft fruit but maturing very well), Ironstone Lodi (Merlot 2003, $16.99, soft and fruity; Petite Sirah 2002, $16.99, dynamic extractive; Cabernet Franc Reserve 2001, $39.95; Zinfandel Old Vine Reserve 2002, $35, 14.5% blockbuster, chewy fruit), Joseph Phelps Napa (Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $69.95, awesome), Marietta Cellars Sonoma (Angeli Cuvee 2000, $46, a high powered 85% zinfandel blend with petite sirah and carignane), Heitz Cellar Napa (Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2001, $74.95, shows depth and character), Benziger Sonoma (Merlot 2001, $26.50, juicy and jammy), Niebaum-Coppola Napa (Chardonnay 2003, $24.95; Claret 2002, $26.95, mainly cabernet chocolate or mocha), Schug Sonoma (Carneros Chardonnay 2003, $29.95, oaky toast; Sonoma Valley Merlot 2001, $31.50, soft fruitiness but tannic and meaty finish), Hidden Valley Stellenbosch (Hidden Agenda 2003, $17.95, 60% pinotage, rest merlot and shiraz, rich), Southbrook VQA Triomphe Chardonnay 2000 ($19.95, barrel fermented and aged in mostly French oak). From Europe, there was Walch Alto Adige (Elena Walch Chardonnay Castel Ringberg 2002, $44.95, with more wood tones than she used to make), Domaine Weinbach Alsace (Riesling Grand Cru Scholossberg Cuvee Sainte Catherine 2002, $89, a dynamite wine which explodes on the palate, easily the best white in the portfolio tasting; Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence 2003, $85, aromatic off-dryness from a hot year; Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2003, $60, very riesling in MVC, a hot year), Paul Zinck Alsace (Gewurztraminer Portrait 2003, $19.50 bargain, full- bodied, rich aromas, slightly bitter finish), J.Vidal Fleury Rhone (Crozes Hermitage 2003, $26.50, faster maturing cassis tones; Muscat Beaumes de Venise 2003, $19.95 375mL bottle, great orange flavours), Louis Jadot Burgundy (Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 2002, $125, dense and a cellar keeper), Michele Chiarlo Piemonte (Moscato d’Asti Nivole 2003, $14.95 375mL bottle, very refreshing), Umberto Cesari Emilia Romagna (Albana di Romagna Passito Colle del Re 2002, $24.95 375mL bottle, intense concentrated lightning in a bottle). For more details, call Lifford at 416-440-4101 or www.liffordwineagency.com As a wine portfolio event, this one rates an 8.8 out of 10. THURSDAY, MAY 5, 2005 – This morning members of the wine press were treated to a preview showing of “Mondovino” at the Varsity Theatre’s VIP Screening Room. We started with a light breakfast (hits of carbos and caffeine), and then viewed the documentary. I’ll be reviewing the DVD later, but by now just about everybody in the wine world knows about Mondovino, a documentary on wine and culture which moves back and forth between corporate conglomerates and small vintners, in different countries and regions, both New World and Old World, and even amongst different generations. The good (the small guys), the bad (the big guys), and the ugly (at least 22 dogs are shown, all shot at ground level)…The POV is mainly about the globalization and the subsequent homogenization (or is it Michel Rolland’s “micro-oxygenation”?) of wines, the elimination of regional character. Filmmaker Jonathan Nossiter does a great job in picking apart the players by presenting them as they are (through judicious cutting) with all their contradictions. I understand that Nossiter, who once worked as a sommelier, is hard at work on a movie about government wine monopolies in Ontario. For more details about the movie, contact keenan@propellerpr.com As a wine event for the press, this one rates a 9.5 out of 10. SATURDAY, MAY 7, 2005 – Some initial pre-Sante activities were planned for today. One was the “Sante Best Value Picks” seminar at the Park Hyatt, led by wine writer and editor David Lawrason. He had gone through the entire selection of wines at Sante and came up with eight which reflected good value (quality-price ratio). He set the tone with his definitions of flaws, generosity of fruit-complexity-balance- finish, tannins. It was a mini-wine course, at the bargain price of $35. It was also sold out (50 people). He picked apart every wine. Of the group, there was Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($15.40), Strewn Semi- Dry Riesling 2003 ($10.95), Henry of Pelham Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2003 ($19.95), Ascheri Barbera 2003 ($17), and R.H.Phillips Shiraz 2002 ($13.95). This is probably the best seminar offered by Sante, and it is especially useful to have it BEFORE the main event. Other seminars this day included “How to Taste Like a Pro”, from the LCBO, and an annual syrah-shiraz tasting. I got a “Sip, Savour & Shop” passport, so I headed out for a preview at My Pet Boutique. It was dog day. Bad Dog wines (France) and DogRidge Vineyard (Australia). There was also San Pellegrino water for all furry visitors, and that included me and my beard…Bad Dog had left for the day by the time I arrived, but DogRidge, with wines at $42 apiece, was still pouring. Their DV3 McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 was a highlight, but the more affordable DV12 Chardonnay 2004 (screwcap) at $30.50, was exceptional in its non-wooded state. The seminar was exceptional, a 9 out of 10. The dog show was 8 out of 10. TUESDAY, MAY 10, 2005 – It was fun time, albeit over the lunch hour, with Bacardi rum at the Century Room (King West). We were led through a tasting of a range of Bacardi rums available in Canada, by William “Willie” Ramos (from Puerto Rico), who conducts these tastings all over the world. This is the first time in Canada for the educational tour. But first we had a stand up walk around with finger food, live loud music, and two signature Bacardi cocktails created for the tour. The event continued with a history of Bacardi, a tutored tasting of seven rums, and an interactive Q and A session. The “Bacardi University”, as it is known, originally was developed for in-house education (company employees, distributors, sales forces, and bartenders) but has since expanded to include both a broader range of rum knowledge and a wider range of personnel in the business, such as liquor board employees, bar and restaurant staff, and consumers. Bacardi produces about 20 million cases, selling 7 million in the US alone. The highest per capita consumption is – India. Puerto Rico is the only place in the world with laws on rum aging (US oak, cultured yeasts, molasses, continuous distillation); the Bacardi facilities there produces two basic rums (young and old), with changes being made at Jacksonville, Florida. Bacardi Gold Rum (+357087, $22.50) is aged two years with one filtering. It shows vanilla and walnuts, some wood, in a smooth and balanced frame. It was the original rum used in Cuba Libre. Bacardi 1873 ($23.50, vanilla, almonds, bananas, toasty) has been aged three years; it is a single barrel blend. Bacardi Black (+112433, $21.50) was medium bodied, with elegant vanilla and banana tones; it was also one of the richest rums produced, being aged for up to 4 years. Bacardi 8 (+492520, $29.50) can actually be older than eight years. It shows nutmeg tones and dried fruit, and is actually made in the Bahamas. The other rums tasted were the entry level white and the flavoured rums, a sort of a basic sampler for mixing. The seminar was, to put a word to it, very “spirited”. As a trade event, this one rates a 8 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, MAY 11, 2005 – Fetzer’s “Great Beginnings” wine and appetizer challenge is one of the highlights of the wine consumer social season, and a bargain to boot. Tickets were only $75 (there was no trade component), and that got you all the appetizers you could eat, plus a dozen or so wines from Fetzer to taste, and a Riedel Crystal glass to take home. As a bonus, we were all given a booklet with ALL of the recipes from ALL of the challengers across Canada, a total of 40 preps from Vancouver, Calgary, Winnipeg and Toronto. The night at the Carlu was the ultimate grazing ground! The basic idea: top area chefs compete for the best appetizer pairing with a particular Fetzer wine. Last year it was Chardonnay; this year it was Gewurztraminer, a floral, off-dry largely aromatic wine with a slightly hot finish. There was a professional judging earlier in the day (as well as a runoff a few months earlier) for the ten finalists, and the consumer guests got to vote for the “peoples choice”. Great fun, and great wines. Overall, I found match possibilities with other Fetzer wines too, but that’s another story, and I suffered from mental whipsawing as I went back and forth between the appetizers and the wines. At one point I was in a corner with three wines and three appetizers making cross-comparisons. The one drawback to the venue is the lack of tables: eating with a fork while standing up, and drinking wine at the same time is almost impossible. I guess there just isn’t enough room for people and tables. Finger food might solve the problem. Amazingly, there were only short three or four person lineups at each station. Many of the appetizers relied on a sweet and sour/spicy sauce or garnish to carry through the Gewurztraminer tones. These certainly worked well enough with the available Fetzer Chardonnay, Fume Blanc and Zinfandel, but the Cabernet Sauvignon was too heavy, the Merlot too soft, and the Syrah too off-dry to carry through to the end of the taste. There were also a lot of scallop dishes (three) and smoked dishes (three), as well as fried dishes (two). Niagara Fallsview Casino developed a pan fried blue crab. Tonia Wilson of Savour Luxury Catering had coconut dusted shrimp and risotto. J.P. Challet from The Fifth showed us a duck confit. The peoples choice was James Piggott’s pan seared pancetta wrapped monk fish, lobster, and chorizo paella (Olio, Toronto Renaissance Airport Hotel), which is understandable since it probably went with the majority of the wines. The professional judges, staying strictly with Gewurztraminer, adored Epic Fairmont Royal York lime crusted ahi tuna (Ryan Starosik). It was a sellout crowd, and I just can’t wait for next year. For more information on the Fetzer Challenge, email mornacassidy@rogers.com As a quality wine and food event, this one rates a solid 9 our of 10. THURSDAY, MAY 12, 2005 – The main trade event for Sante was the big wine show. It was held over two nights for the public (one with food, and one without food) and one afternoon for the trade. Unfortunately, the trade tasting was interrupted by two education seminars, which cut into my tasting time. So I didn’t get around to many tables. I peeked in at the screwcap vs. cork tasting, but I had already done a tasting with Villa Maria NZ wines at a PMA portfolio tasting. So the highlight for me today was the tasting of Mas de Daumas Gassac wines, the Grand Cru of the Languedoc. The wines are characterized by a cool microclimate, organic traditions, red glacial dusts and white lutetian limestone. We began with the 2004 white, long and fruity length, youthful free, a bit yeasty at this point. The 1996 showed some maderization and age, and some coffee and honey tones. The Elise Rouge 2003 was light with a slight sourdough nose a short finish. It was made from s different site, almost like an estate’s second wine. The regular 2002 was deep, complex, tannic, needing time, smoothed out with airing. The 2001 had some olives, good depth, opened more with airing. The 2000 had a lovely nose, some age, almost Bordeaux-like. The 1998 had lots of depth, very well-aged, still tannic but the fruit was there. The 1994 was initially flat, with incipient corkiness, but the second bottle was similar, although it fared better. The 1990 had a developed bouquet, good depth, and a finish of age. The 1988 was my favourite, the ultimate wine in its ageing. The seminar was conducted by Guibert Fils; the winery is repped here in Ontario by Trilogy (416-968-0758). At the show, there were samples of the Blanc 2002 and the Rouge 2003, both showing well but also both being a bit restrained. The seminar was repeated for consumers on Saturday May 14, as part of the Education Day presentations. In the walkaround, I enjoyed Ascheri Montelupa Viognier 2001 (Prevedello and Mathews) and his dramatic Vigna dei Pola Barolo 1999. The Barossa Valley Estate E&E Sparkling Shiraz 2001 is always a treat. Byrne & Smith Antiquarian McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 showed delicious fruit (Le Sommelier), as did the Ardent Estates Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon NV. I must have been in a sparkling mood, since I also went for the Cuvee Charles Gardet 1997 (long length) and the affordable and tender Georges Gardet Cuvee Saint Flavy ($37.95, Premier Wine). Taittinger was on hand, with Brut Reserve and Prestige Rose Brut; I preferred the latter. DogRidge DV3 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 and the DV12 Chardonnay 2004 represent some of the cutting edge of new Australia wine technology. The winery was also selected for Sante’s Gala Dinner in both 2004 and 2005 (repped by Le Sommelier). The entire Bonterra line, although lightish, is made from organic grapes, and they should be commended. The Chardonnay 2003 (partially stainless steel), the Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, the Muscat Canelli 2002, and the Syrah 2000 are all thoughtful wines. I was also impressed with Five Rivers Ranch, especially their Chardonnay 2003 (Charton-Hobbs, about $20) which was described as “close to organic”. Cathedral Cellars Chardonnay 2003, from the KWV empire in South Africa, showed good varietal character and a certain toastiness. Legends Estate VQA Niagara Chardonnay Reserve 2002 was barrel fermented and aged in French oak for six months, giving it much class. Mission Hill VQA Okanagan was right up with them in the Chardonnay Reserve 2003 ($18.95). The Mountain Road VQA Niagara Reserve Chardonnay 2001 ($25.90) was very aromatic. The R.H.Phillips Toasted Head Chardonnay 2003 was, of course, very toasted. One of the best reds at the show was the South African Rust en Vrede Shiraz 2001, about $30 (Thompson Vintage Trade) with tight fruit and done up in a syrah Rhone style. Rutherford Hill Chardonnay Napa 2002 showed well, with nice toast, at Vintages for $25.95. The Vina Sena Arboleda Chardonnay 2003 was a steal at $17.95 (Maxxium). Clarence Hill Chardonnay 2003, from Adelaide, displayed lovely wood; it was screwcapped (Vergina). Chilensis Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2003 from Chile gave me my grassy hit (Vergina). Other bubbles I enjoyed included Villa Sandi Prosecco (Prevedello and Mathews). Food accompaniments were sparse, being confined to bread and crackers plus outstanding Canadian cheeses which were parceled out. From Quebec, there was Mi-Careme, Du Village Triple Crème, Delice Des Appalaches, and Oka. Other cheeses were fine Canadian knockoffs of Gouda, Corvo, and Montasio. As a wine event for the trade, I’d give this one an 8 out of 10. SATURDAY, MAY 14, 2005 – This is an enormous Sante day, with a passport of wine, education seminars, and the evening bacchanal to get through. But I persevere in your name…I went to the annual “Wine and Cheese” seminar, mainly because Kathy Guidi, who does such an excellent job with artisan cheeses, picks different cheeses each year. These all get recorded in my cheese book. Wine writer Billy Munnelly hosted the wine side, mainly introducing winery reps who spoke to the wines. The eight wines were accompanied by seven cheeses (one never showed up). Billy gave us his notes on how to taste wines. He has moved from his six pack description to an eight pack description of wines. Apparently there are too many fine points of separation. There were three whites (Legend Chenin Blanc was the only one from Ontario) and five reds: Five Rivers Ranch Pinot Noir 2003 ($19.95), Lungarotti Rubesco 2001 ($11.95), Fabril Alto Verde Buenas Ondas Organic Shiraz 2004 ($13), Chilcas Organic Merlot 2003 ($13.60), and Vina Cono Sur Vision Cabernet Carmenere 2002 (mid-teens). The emphasis in the tasting was definitely on organic and near-organic wines and cheeses. Cheeses were designed for particular wines, but we could all mix and match if we still had enough of the samples left on our plates. All of the cheeses were from Quebec, except for Sao Miguel, a Portuguese-styled cheese from Toronto. There was a bio camembert, a bio gouda, Le P’tit St-Damase, Le Cru du Clocher Cheddar Reserve, Le Baluchon, and Escogriffe. A great experience, although it should be noted that many people left behind on their plates some of the more strong smelling cheeses. Before and after the seminar I chased down some passport “Sip, Savour & Shop” tastings. I didn’t notice many people shopping: they were too busy sipping and then moving on to the next station. Gallery on the Avenue was the most civilized, with a discreet viewing of art works accompanied by three upscale Rutherford Hill Napa wines (Merlot 2001, $30; Chardonnay 2002, $26; Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $45). Peller Estates took over the open Lesendro Restaurant space, with a fashion show. The space was too big, and there were security problems. Henry Birks ran with Taittinger Champagne. I arrived at closing time (4 PM), and was surprised that there was half a bottle left. It went quickly, split among the five of us. The best attended area was Lovecraft, of course. Le Sommelier had taken it over, in typical macho Oz style, with Macaw Creek, DogRidge, and Byrne & Smith wines. It was very easy to linger, young and old, male and female, perusing the wines and the store’s inventory. The store was crowded, but not as crowded as the Whole Foods seminar room with Hillebrand Estates. There were serious breathing issues and crowd control: I left quickly as the glass walls were steaming up. It seems odd that Peller and Hillebrand, owned by the same company, displayed their wares in the largest and smallest spaces in Hazelton Lanes. Next year people, do it all in the Lesendro space. I spent some time at Paper Things with Legends Estates (Cabernet Franc 2003, $12.65, plus some enjoyable fruit wines of plums and apricots, only 9% alcohol). The Pepper Mill featured Vina Con Sur’s Vision Viognier 2003 (14%, $16.95 bargain, showing good initial fruit with an acid finish for food). Perry’s Yorkville was the most subdued: excellent wines from Barossa Valley Estate, Nobilo Wine, Ravenswood, Robert Mondavi, and Zonin. But all displayed with salesmen hovering about, making sure that nobody spilled anything on the suit fabrics. That’s fine: they’re just protecting themselves. The passport is one of Sante’s best values, and while most places are open for tasting for only two or more hours, the range of time extends from noon through five. Planning ahead works. The seminar gets a 9 out of 10, as does the passport. SATURDAY, MAY 14, 2005 – The Sante Saturday night Bloor Street Bacchanal (which celebrates Ontario wines) this year took over two stores, Roots and Harry Rosen. Both stores are separated by a street, so it was easy to criss-cross. But there was rain, so service staff had to be available for umbrella carrying across the street. And archaic liquor regulations forbade carrying even drained wine glasses from one store to another. So there were two immediate problems: not enough staff in the stores (they were out with umbrellas) and not enough clean wine glasses since each consumer had to get a new glass each time. After waiting a fruitless 10 minutes, I grabbed a used glass, rinsed it in the washroom, and continued on. And at some point, after I had departed for the evening, the event ran out of food and the guest chefs had left early. Did I really eat that much? ;-) All of this was noted by others on the Chowhound board. Actually, I had begun my tasting early, in the Harry Rosen store, which was pretty quiet for the first hour. Most consumers seemed to be unaware it was there. At Harry, there was Trish Magwood of Party Dish, with a petit pois puree, Anna Olsen of Sugar with cheesecake, and the Dairy Farmers of Canada with their cheese spectacular (Ste-Martine raw milk brie-style, Canadian St.Paulin, Bio Gouda organic, and Mamirolle). Depending on how you want to look at it, the cheeses were not politically correct, since they all came from Quebec. Couldn’t the DFC get some Ontario cheeses for the Ontario wines? Legends Estate, Mountain Road, and Peninsula Ridge (with J.P.Colas himself) offered stunning wines, including Legends Pinot Noir 2003 Reserve, Peninsula Ridge’s Sauvignon Blanc 2004 and Mountain Road’s Chardonnay 2001 (barrel-fermented and aged). Cave Spring showed their Riesling Off-Dry 2004, Chateau des Charmes’ Sauvignon Blanc 2004 won OWA Gold recently. I also enjoyed the Trius range from Hillebrand Estates; their Red is the cellar keeper. Willow Heights Chardonnay Sur Lie 2004 had no oak, just tasty apples and lemons. After a stern request to deposit my drained glass, and a request to be under an umbrella (despite little rain at that point), I ventured to the Roots store. The time I spent waiting for the glass-which-never- appeared was spent eyeballing the crowd, mostly in the young demographic. But there were some inveterate wine tasters also in attendance. The catalogue listed Rob Rainford of Licence to Grill with a grilled tuna selection, Christine Cushing with a lamb chop, and Bob Blumer (Surreal Gourmet) with a white chocolate and mango mousse egg cup. Peller Estates had an off-dry Chardonnay Sur Lie 2002, Strewn had a Terroir Chardonnay 2001 that was good with food, Henry of Pelham brought their award-winning Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2003 and Chardonnay 2003 Reserve, Creekside had a fabulous Shiraz 2002, Lakeview Meritage 2002 sat well with me, as did Reif Gewurztraminer 2002 and Reif Chardonnay 2002 Reserve (13.5% alcohol). Pillitteri showed the great Cabernet Franc 1999 Family Reserve. It was very useful to catch up with Ontario wines since they don’t seem to be shown all that much in Toronto (just Sante and OWA tasting, within a month of each other). As a quality wine and food consumer event, this one rates a 7 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, MAY 25, 2005 – Another huge heavy day today as the New Zealand Wine Fair at Alice Fazooli’s opens to the trade. We begin with a trade seminar for writers, sommeliers, and LCBO – exploring the regional influences of climate and soils and the selection of specific varietals, clones, trellising, canopy management and harvesting techniques to achieve full varietal character. All the wines sampled will be available in Ontario this year. The eclectic presentation by Steve Thurlow roamed through nine varietals (some at the reserve level) from all the districts. My favourite Sauvignon Blanc, of the three shown, was Sacred Hill Sauvage 2004 from Hawkes Bay (about $30), barrel fermented in a fume style. The Morton Estate Black Label Chardonnay 2002, also Hawkes Bay, had a toasty nose but was not creamy, more a cool climate high acid wine. Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir Central Otago 2003 had a rustic Burgundian nose, refreshing palate, and a higher acid brisk finish. After the seminar, we were all treated to a buffet lunch (lamb, chicken, fish, salads, sweets) before the trade show. As a wine seminar-event for the trade, I’d give this one a 8.2 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, MAY 25, 2005 – The New Zealand Wine Fair had actually opened the night before, with a consumer show. It would continue this night with another consumer show, and would move on to Montreal. Unfortunately, the extra work in mounting another show meant that the usually informative list of what New Zealand wines were available in Ontario, along with their prices, would not be available at this time. Other than that, the catalogue was enlightening, with gobs of material on production figures (by region) and varietals, and highlights of the previous two years. Prices were not listed, but full contact information was, along with full details about the agents. There were 41 wineries, and over 140 wines (but no Cloudy Bay). A ton of cheese was put out, including some imports (Grana Padano, etc.). I did not taste every wine, but I found personal favourites among the following - -- Babich Winemakers Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2004 (Dionysus, zesty), C.J. Pask Reserve Merlot Hawkes Bay 2002 ($39.95 Spring 2006, Dionysus, intense fruit), Fairhall Downs Chardonnay Marlborough 2003 ($19.95, MCO, toasty), Newton Forrest Cornerstone Cabernet Merlot Malbec Hawkes Bay 2001 (Abcon, $36, very good full aromas and characters), Konrad Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2004 (Vergina, grassy), Matanka Estate Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Merlot 2000 ($29, Prevedello and Mathews, dynamite well aged Bordeaux styled blend), Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir Marlbrough 2004 ($21.95, Churchill Cellars, a steal at this price for a hot and heavy oak infused wine), Seifried Chardonnay Nelson 2004 (Terra Fine Wines, toasty and warm tones), Tohu Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2004 (Woodman Wines, deliciously zesty), Voss Estate Reserve Chardonnay Martinborough 2003 ($29.70, Robert Groh, terrific bargain for delicious coconut and tropical tones, my favourite white wine of the show), Wither Hills Marlborough Chardonnay 2003 (Lifford, bright toast). For more details about these and other New Zealand Wines, contact Robert Ketchin nzwine@ketchin.com or 1-705-444-0195. As a quality wine and food event, this one garners an 8.5 out of 10. FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2005 – After two months of working with farmers to achieve aging and marbling possibilities for certified organic beef, and creating/implementing recipes for sausages and prepared foods, The Healthy Butcher had a grand opening at noon today. At 565 Queen Street West (east of Bathurst), the establishment is nicely positioned to assume a role in fulfilling organic meat requirements in the Queen Street West district. At the launch we were shown the new foods and how they were put together, we were shown how to butcher a side of beef (the meat shop does its own butchering, since it is, of course, a butcher), and we sampled come near-organic wines (fungicide- and pesticide-free wines from Macaw Creek in Australia, repped here in Ontario by Le Sommelier (416-603-7026), one of the more innovative agents in town. A sampling of food and wine matching, plus a tour, was included. The butcher does prep work for non-meats too. Off their menu we had an eggplant veggie roll with mushroom, celery root and carrot. It was accompanied by a refreshing Semillon Viognier 2004 from Macaw in Oz’s Gilbert Valley ($24.94 licensee, bone dry but floral). With the red curry pasta salad and some cranberry-glazed meatballs, there was Macaw Creek’s Grenache Shiraz 2002 ($24.70, upfront fruit but great finishing acid). The third platter was a beef roulade stuffed with mushroom mousse, and also a Guinness beef sausage with jalapenos. The Macaw Creek Yoolang Preservative Free Shiraz 2002 ($26.84) acquitted itself rather well by standing up firm and bracing against the spiciness. But I did feel that the Macaw Creek Reserve Shiraz Cabernet 2001 ($49.88), full of energy and power, fruit and depth, was too much for the Tunisian lamb sausage and chorizo sausage. Both the food and wine were better on their own at this stage. Still, three out of four matches is not bad. For the first time in my life I decided to buy some raw, organic chicken wings: they were plump and would be terrific baked with sesame seeds (as indeed they were, the next day). The value of organic chickens is that while chicken skin, fat, and liver are not good for you, at least they won’t kill you as those pieces of conventional chickens will. For more details about The Healthy Butcher, visit www.theheathybutcher.com (416-ORGANIC). For Macaw and other wines, try www.lesommelier.com (416-603-7026). As a quality event, it rates a 8.5 out of 10. RECENT PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH I had an opportunity to sample a range of fine summer release VQA wines from the Niagara College Teaching Winery. About two dozen students make wines at the Glendale campus, under the tutelage of Professor/Winemaker Jim Warren (ex-Stoney Ridge and various consultantships). Here are some notes: - NCT College Blanc de Noir 2004, $11.95: 11.5% alcohol, made from cabernet franc and gamay noir, a pretty rose. An aromatic tang of strawberries, and off-dry. - NCT College White 2004, $10.95: 11.5% alcohol, made from riesling, vidal and muscat. Lots of fruit, again off-dry, muscat dominates. Useful as light and charming patio wine. - NCT Riesling 2004, $11.95: 11% alcohol, but a substantial step up in quality with some floral acidity and off-dry finish. Not as dramatic as in 2003. - NCT Rieslingtraminer 2004, $ n/a, 11% alcohol, is new this year, cashing in on the aromatic and slightly bitter taste of the gewürztraminer grape, coupled with some bracing acidity of the riesling. - NCT Sauvignon Blanc 2004, $12.95, 12.2% alcohol: very much MVC in style, with light citric tones and grass. - NCT Chardonnay Unoaked 2004, $ n/a, 12.5% alcohol: another new NCT wine this year, with straight ahead melons, apples, pears, and citrus tones. - NCT Warren Classic Chardonnay 2003 BF/BA, $27.95, made from the Neumann Vineyard grapes, put up in French oak after barrel fermentation. Oaky nose at this stage, with vanilla, caramel, some toast. Buttery palate, with a balanced, long finish. Needs some more time. One of the best oak matured values in Niagara, coming in under $30. - NCT Gamay Noir 2004, $14.95, 11.5%: medium bodied quaffer for summer, strawberries, a bit more stuffing than Beaujolais. - NCT Meritage 2003, $21.95, 13.3% alcohol: 67% cabernet franc, 22% cabernet sauvignon, 11% merlot, put up in US oak, definite North American style, losing that cigar box character but retaining the leafiness of the cab. Franc. Some anise, finishing with choco-vanilla from the fruit and the wood. Guard it for 5 to 10 years. Wines are available only through the retail store, just off the QEW beyond White Oaks at Glendale, and open seven days a week to 5 PM. Or, call for case delivery at 905-641-2252 x 4070, www.nctwinery.com. All after-cost proceeds go to the school. - Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2004, +284950, $11.95 GL, excessively dry which makes it a good aperitif wine. Aged 8 months in stainless steel, fresh now. - Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir Droit, St.David’s Bench, +582353, $15.95, tasty flavours of berry-cherry, lots of body, great for BBQ. - Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2004, +391300, $14.95, an Ontario Wine Award 2005 Gold Medal, full of herbs and clipped grass, crisp acid, best with food at the appetizer level. - Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay “Sur Lie” 2002 Niagara-on-the-Lake (+981159-02), reviewed here last Sept 2004 (but also a recent 2005 gold medal winner at the Chardonnay du Monde in France. BF and BA (French and US), complicated tropical bouquet with toasty notes, lots of creaminess, will improve over the next few years. Cellar it. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR APRIL 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com MONDAY, APRIL 4, 2005 – Churchill Cellars held its annual portfolio tasting, this year at the St.Lawrence Hall. In the past year, it managed to grow under the Constellation Brands umbrella, adding Robert Mondavi and now moving about one million cases of wine a year through Canada. Indeed, Scott Montgomery from the wine program has been elevated to the national Constellation office, at the other end of Toronto, and will not be at many trade shows anymore; he will be missed. Churchill showed off a selection of wines from BRL Hardy (Banrock Station, Barossa Valley Estate, Leasingham) in Australia, Cellier des Dauphins, Dopff Au Moulin, Guy Saget and Pol Roger in France, Nobilo in New Zealand, Marcus James in Argentina, Mondavi, Ravenwood, and Talus from California, Zonin from Italy – and lots more through their Vintages program. Some of the wines I especially enjoyed were the Dopff Au Moulin Riesling 2003 (+649772, $14) with its off-dry character, Hardy’s Bankside Shiraz 2002 (+436022, $16.95) a value- priced elegant and fruity red, Barossa Valley Estate Spires Shiraz 2002 (+598128, $15.10) and the Spires Chardonnay 2003 (+598136, $12.95), the zesty Nobilo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (+554444, $15.40), the stunning Casa Silva Coleccion Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 from Chile (spicy, red fruit, hearty, $13.05, +588749), and the Pol Roger Cuvee Brut Rose Specialement Selectionne 1988 (only $74.95, +82495). The Quintessa 2001 Rutherford Napa was the best all-round wine at the show, but then it was also priced at $139 (+494245). Simi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Alexander Valley (+564260, $32.95) was all fruit. Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Shiraz 2001 (+510628, $29.95) was broad and developing well on the palate. Ravenswood Zinfandel 2002 Lodi Napa (+942599, $22.95) showed delicious wood tones. Oomoo Shiraz 2003 from Hardy (+593038, $19.95) was one of the nicest value-priced wines today, brimming with ready fruit and sweet chocolate. Barossa Valley Estate E & E Black Pepper Shiraz 2001 (+731620, $99) was also a clear but not affordable winner; its dark and deep colours and flavours were dramatic. Eileen Hardy’s Chardonnay 2001 (+500991, $29.95) always impresses me with its elegance. Accompanying all of the wines were mounds of roast beef and about a dozen cheeses from Alex’s. For more details about any of these wines, contact Churchill Cellars at 416-368- 5108. As a wine and food event, this one garners 8.7 out of 10. TUESDAY, APRIL 5, 2005 – The biennial Napa Valley Tour was held at the Carlu mid-day, for the trade. And of course I didn’t try everything. Probably the most spectacular wines on display were the range of Diamond Creek Vineyards. Repped by Lifford, the firm was pouring 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. I loved the mellowness of the Gravelly Meadow, a cooler climate. Next best was the Red Rock Terrace, followed by Volcanic Hill. But it is all subjective – and expensive. Cakebread Cellars (Lifford) displayed a Chardonnay 2002 Reserve ($52) and a Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Reserve, both charming in their quality. Chateau Montelena (Rogers) brought a 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon for trying out. Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Stags Leap District seemed to be off-dry in its approach, fruity, ready soon. Cuvaison Chardonnay 2002 Carneros is now a Rolling Release at Vintages ($29.95, Prevedello & Matthews). Duckhorn Merlot 2002 ($69, succulent) and Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($84, tight) were both elegant in their length (Rogers). Fife Old Vines Zinfandel 2001 (Groupe Soleil) reminded me of soft chocolates. Grigich Hill had a 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon for sampling (Rogers). Hess Collection Chardonnay 2003 was a bit-off dry, but also lean on the palate. Hess Mountain Cuvee 2002 ($48.45, Prevedello & Matthews) was a heavy Bordeaux-blend with syrah. Paraduxx Red 2002 was very good for $65 (Rogers). Trefethen Estate Merlot 2001 Oak Knoll District (Halpern) was soft, fat, but full of alcoholic kick. There were a few different wines than were listed in the catalogue, but we’ve all grown to accept that. As a wine and food event, this one rates 8.5 out of 10. TUESDAY, APRIL 12, 2005 – Mid-morning the wine media assembled in the new tasting room of Philippe Dandurand’s Bay Street offices, to talk with Ed Sbragia, chief winemaker for Beringer. We tasted a dozen wines. Here are some notes: * Beringer Napa Chardonnay 2001, +348342, $28 General List: warm tropical nose, some toast, soft fruit, and medium finish. 100% ML and BF French oak. * Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2000, +393926, $49.95, Vintages Rolling Release: soft, engaging wood, good toast level, 100% new Nevers oak, elegant, Burgundian with fruit attached, drying out nicely. * Beringer Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir 2000, $59.95, October Vintages: rich nose, very heavy tones, opulent fruit on mid-palate, 18 months in new and used Nevers oak. Good colour extraction and berry flavours. * Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, +352583, $44.95 Vintages Essential: from Sonoma, tobacco nose, cedar, cassis, off-dry fruit, use for both sipper and food, but has a longer, engaging finish. Small oak barrels, new and used French and US oak. * Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot 1996, $139, +340487, Fall 2004 Classics: with 5% cabernet sauvignon and 4% franc, slightly browning, anise, mocha, mounds of extract, soft cassis flavours, long toasty finish. * Beringer Napa Merlot 2000, $34.95, +919647: with 6% cabernet sauvignon, 1% malbec: good tannins, not a sipper, still a ways to go, ripe, rich full fruit, big wine, long finish, 14.3% alcohol. *Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1997, $149.95: warmer wine, softer, but fleshy, new Nevers oak chateau barrels, 3% cabernet franc added for the finish. * Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $149.95: cool vintage, more acid, better keeping qualities, more Bordeaux-like despite 100% cabernet sauvignon. * Beringer Nightingale 2001, $39.95 half-bottle: a Late Harvest semillon and sauvignon blanc blend, botrytis affected, and with wood aging. * Sbragia Family Home Ranch Chardonnay 2003 Dry Creek Sonoma, $35: most important winemakers get to make their own wines with their own labels. Ed had 1200 cases of his deep, brooding and toasty (lots of toast) chardonnay, aged in new French oak. * Sbragia Family Rancho del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Howell Mountain Napa, $99: 517 cases, ripe tannins, opulent and juicy, mocha-fruity, richly structured. The tasting concluded with a nifty lunch, extra pours, and some White Zinfandel 2004 (+239756, $10.95 General List, off-dry raspberry tones, 10.5% alcohol). For more details about all of these wines, contact mstillo@philippedandurandwines.ca. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates an 8.9 out of 10. THURSDAY, APRIL 14, 2005 – This evening was the monthly Vintages Preview Tasting held by the Small Winemakers Collection (an umbrella group which also includes Capricorn and EPNA), at their Broadview Avenue offices. These tastings also include consignment and private orders, and are open to the trade and private customers. Today was extra special as there was a special presentation of Morgan Winery (Salinas Valley, Monterey), but only two are here on Consignment: Morgan Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($21, full and developing, good price) and Morgan Pinot Noir 2003 ($33.30, Burgundian style, made with twelve clones). The others were all private orders. Morgan Chardonnay 2003 ($27.50) showed light limes and good Monterey character, Morgan Rosella’s Chardonnay 2003 ($48) was very Burgundian, Eurostyle needing food. Morgan Double L Pinot Noir 2002 ($64) made from three Dijon clones and one Pommard, very Pommard in style (my favourite pinot noir style) with black cherries and red plums. Morgan Syrah 2002 ($33) had wild yeast fermentation, berryish but tannic body. Morgan Tierra Mar Syrah 2001 ($52) was like a Cote Rotie, made from their eight best barrels, aged in 50% new French oak, blue/blackberries. Other Consignment wines tasted included some Italian gems such as Luigi Righetti Campolieti 2002 from the Veneto ($16.80, full plumminess, delicious, 70% ripasso method), Tenuta della Selva Chianti 2003 ($16.80, soft, fruity, North American style, but sip or food), and Pio Cesare Dolcetto d’Alba from Piedmont ($25.85, raspberries). In Vintages now is the good value Bonny Doon Big House Red 2002 from California (+308999, a bit soft and juicy, screwcapped). For more details about any of these wines, call 416-463-7382. As a wine and food (they upgraded their usual cheese platter) event, this one rates a 8 out of 10. MONDAY, APRIL 18, 2005 – The annual California Wine Fair rolled into Toronto; this was the 25th Annual Canadian Tour, with stops in Calgary, Edmonton, Vancouver, Halifax, Toronto, Montreal, and Ottawa. Today it was at the Fairmont Royal York, and began with a “Toast to California” trade luncheon, preceded by a sparkling wine reception. I especially enjoyed the powerhouse DVX 1998 from Mumm Napa, as well as a range from Schramsberg. The sit-down lunch featured Robert P. (Bobby) Koch, President and CEO of the Wine Institute, the public policy association representing 820 California winery and associate members responsible for 80% of US wine production and 90% of US exports. He spoke on various matters reflecting on the current status of regulatory and trade barrier activities. 16% of wine exports are shipped to Canada (second largest export market: UK is first, Netherlands is third), and California wines have 5% of the world share export market. Andy Brandt, long time LCBO chief honcho, threw in that California wines sold $57 million on the LCBO General List and $23 million at Vintages. At my table there were winery representatives for Delicato (Pinot Gris 2004, soft, fruity sipper; Shiraz 2003, 13.5% alcohol, also fruit forward; and the value priced Kingfish Merlot 2003, a whopping 13.5% for $9.95) and for Renwood (Old Vine Zinfandel 2002 Amador, at 15% alcohol, still showing some hard wood). We sipped and sampled with a ginger crusted loin of ahi tuna, a roasted tenderloin of bison with root vegetables, red cabbage, and goat cheese, plus a selection of cheeses from Canada and France and fancies for dessert. There were enough different flavours in the various separate components of the two major dishes to serve as a platform for the different styles of wines. But ultimately there were too many different flavours in the composition, and the cheeses were too cold. Sorry about that…. The trade show itself brought out enormous crowds, and the range of wines was certainly diverse. What to do? Obviously, I couldn’t try everything. Luckily, I had a preview tasting of the major varietals, so I could pick and choose today. First, to the catalogue: while it contained the basic data, and it seemed to follow the table order, it was extremely distracting because of the screened printing. Black on grey tones just doesn’t work for me. It made the catalogue very difficult to read. Some of my favourites from the show were the Far Niente Chardonnay 2002 Napa (+539130, $69.95, with its ripe spices and long finish), Caymus Conundrum 2002 (+929992, $33.95, long on style and off-dryness with sauvignon blanc, semillon, chardonnay, viognier and muscat canelli in a secret blend), Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Paso Robles (+680835, $19.95, olives, cedary, black fruit), Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Knights Valley (+352583, $44.95, more black fruit and cedar, exceptionally long finish), Conn Creek Merlot Limited Edition Napa 2002 (+599175, $54, amazingly rich for a merlot, herbal and spicy finish), Clos du Val Zinfandel 1999 (+590216, $19.95, jammy, plummy, affordable for summer), Cline Syrah 2002 (+733758, $17.95, more on the Rhone style with pepper and leather tones), Justin Syrah 2002 (minty), La Crema Chardonnay 1996 (with its French and US oak), Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2001 ($68) and Landmark Overlook Chardonnay ($39.95), almost everything from Nichols Winery (Meritage Trio 1999, 50% merlot, 21% cabernet franc, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 14% alcohol, two years in French oak, $52, fragrant, fruit forward, restaurant ready – or BYOW; and Nichols Edna Ranch Vineyard Chardonnay 2000, $44.25). There was also Philip Staley Viognier 2002 Russian River ($30), the peachy Round Hill Chardonnay 2003, the toasty but off-dry Round Hill Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay Napa 2003, the good toast of Ironstone Sonoma Creek Chardonnay Sonoma County 2003 ($19.95), and the fun line of Michael-David Vineyards (7 Deadly Zin 2003 Old Vines, $17US; 6th Sense Syrah 2003, all chocolate, $17US; Earthquake Syrah 2002, 15.5% alcohol, sweet chocolate but needs time, $25US; and Incognito Red 2003 Lodi, $17US, very rich and ripe, overthetop in an Oz style. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates a 8.9 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 20, 2005 – With no lunch and no seminar, the Austrian trade commission cut to the chase and gave the trade more time to consider Austrian wines at the Drake Hotel, from mid-day through 5 PM. Over 150 wines were presented, with a sprinkling of winemakers plus agents who deal with Austrian wines. The spiral bound catalogue was arranged by table, with full addresses of suppliers and agents, as well as a description of the wineries. Wines were listed with vintage years and alcohol levels, plus CSPC numbers where known. There was also some general but useful information about grape varieties and regions. Apart from that, there was not much space to write notes, and the venue was dark in places which made note-taking very hard. The Drake provided a range of cheeses, some from Quebec. The impressive wines were expensive, but that’s life if the quality lane…I did not try all the wines. But I did enjoy Hillinger’s Hill 1 (cabernet sauvignon/merlot/zweigelt/shiraz blend, $65, Lorac Wines) as well as their Hill 3 Trockenbeerenauslese (80% chardonnay and 20% sauvignon blanc, but also $75 for a half bottle). Their least expensive wines (the entry wines) are called Small Hill Red and Small Hill White. I like to encourage such whimsy in this business. Schlumberger had a Pinot Noir Rose 2001 that I thought was pretty good for the $16.95 being asked; it is not here, but probably in 2006 (check with PMA). From Schlossweingut Graf Hardegg (Merchant Vintner), I enjoyed sampling Riesling Classic 2003 ($43.55) and Riesling Steinbugel 2004 ($23.60). From Fischer (B.Cojocaru) there was the ever popular Bouvier Trockenbeerenauslese 1999, delicious for a mere $25. The delightful and a personal favourite of mine, Lenz Moser Mariandl (sparkling apricot) will be back by Christmas, 6.5% alcohol, +117366 (HHD Imports). There was good soft fruit and no oak in the red St.Laurent Rohrendorfer Rieden 2003 (+994681, $19.95, Vergina Imports). I liked the Rabi Rudulf Riesling Steinhaus 2004 with some sussreserve (Vintage Trade), and the red Stift Klosterneuberg St.Laurent Barrique Domaine 2002 ($44, Lamprecht). Lamprecht also repped Moorhof Unger’s delicious Muskat Ottonal 2004 (2002 in Vintages now, $13.50) and Salomon Undhof’s Gelber Traminer Reserve with its spicy nose ($30). Nittnaus Pinot Blanc 2004, also very good, will be here at Vintages for $15 at the end of the summer (Wineworld). Zahel’s Nussberg Grand Reserve is a Conundrum-type blend with riesling, gruner veltliner, pinot blanc, traminer, pinot gris, and four other varieties (Small Winemakers Collection, $26). Zahel’s St. Laurent Reserve 2003 was a knockout at $26, but even better was their Antares Grand Reserve 2002 (60% St.Laurent with 20% zweigelt, and ten percent each merlot and cabernet sauvignon ($47). For more details on the availability of these wines or order contacts, email Toronto@austriantrade.org. As a quality wine event, it rates a 8.7 out of 10. MONDAY, APRIL 25, 2005 – French wines are fighting back in a big way. They are spending major bucks on promotion. Their latest trade show was a unique Alsace and Rhone Valley trade tasting, at the Carlu, noon to six. Most of the white wines were from Alsace (with a few pinot noirs), and most of the red wines were Cotes du Rhone or at least Southern Rhone (with a few from the North), and regions such as Ventoux, Luberon, Tavel, Nimes, etc. There were some roses from the Rhone as well. The catalogue was almost a masterpiece of design: clear, concise, large print, spiral bound, lists of producers and suppliers, lists of corresponding agents, table and page numbers, plenty of names and addresses and phone numbers, brief description of the vineyards, export figures, and promotional activities in 2005. Each wine had varietal notes, annual production figures, vineyard area, food and wine pairing, correct (for the most part) vintage years, and with tables arranged by agent. And most agents in Ontario have an Alsatian or Rhone wine in their portfolio. The catalogue was a tumble book, with Alsace on one side and Rhone on the other. With all this depth of data, it had high reference value. The major drawbacks were price, terms of availability (consignment? Private order? Vintages?) and size of the book. Most agents had a takeaway sheet with some of this data on it. There were also typos and misplaced headings (such as “Wine of Alsace” under the Rhone Vineyards on page 8). But kudos to Anne and Ted (and others) at Sopexa for a really great catalogue. The complementary food included French cheeses, tapenade, pan bagnat, lamb, sushi, foie gras, duck – a great spread. And the wines? There were so many that I decided to limit myself to mostly Gewurztraminers and Syrah-based wines (mostly North Rhone). Overall, I was slightly disappointed at the 2003 year. It was exceptionally hot, which resulted in higher sugar levels and an off-dry finish. Imagine a powerhouse Gewurztraminer at 13 – 14% levels with an off-dry but reduced bitterness in the finish. Great for sipping, but with food? Maybe with the stronger curried dishes. From Alsace, I enjoyed Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Sporen 2001 (off-dry but brilliant, from Barrique), Sparr Riesling Schoenenbourg Grand Cru 2000, Ruhlmann Gewurztraminer Vieilles Vignes 2004 ($19.35, Regazzi), Andre Blanck Gewurztraminer Altenbourg 2004 (perfumed finish, BB Marketing), Schlumberger Guebwiller Gewurztraminer Fleur de Guebwiller 2003 (+627968, $29.75), Gewurztraminer Grad Cru Zinnkoepfle 2002 (Charton-Hobbs), Gustave Lorentz Gewurztraminer Reserve 2003 (bone-dry, off-bitter finish, Diamond Estates), Gustave Lorentz Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim Vendanges Tardives 2000, Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum 2003 (14% powerhouse, EPNA), Mittnacht – Klack Gewurztraminer 2002 (bone dry, EPNA), Cave Vinicole de Kientzheim Kayersberg Cremant d’Alsace Anne Boecklin Blanc de Noirs (good depth and balance, $24.95, Ruby Wines) and their off-dry Muscat 2004 ($16.35, Ruby). Louis Sipp Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Osterberg 2000 (some bitterness but also some underplayed sweetness, $35, HHD Imports), Clos Sainte Apolline Gewurztraminer Bollenberg Cuvee Selection 2003 ($27, Lexcellent Wines), the balanced and classically dry Dopff Irion Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Vorbourg 1999 ($35.95 Vintages), the Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2002 ($24.95 Vintages in August) with its balanced fruit and acid, Cave Vincole de Ribeauville Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2002 (reminded me of smoked pork loin, $32, Select Wine Merchants), Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer 2003 (bone dry in feel with goof body, $23, Trilogy), Cave de Beblenheim Gewurztraminer Vieilles Vignes 2002 (older style, fabulous body and mouthfeel,$23, Vergina Imports). From the Rhone, I enjoyed tasting Chateau de Campuget Costieres de Nimes 1753 2003 (fruity, but needed exposure, $19.75, Churchill Cellars), their smoky, vigorous Sommeliere Rouge 2002 ($26.95 Vintages), Domaine du Chene Rouviere Saint Joseph Anais 2003 (intense, smoky, $26, EPNA Wines), Delas Freres Crozes Hermitage Les Launes 2003 (needs time, HHD Imports), Les Vignerons de Beaumes de Venise Saint Joseph Champtenaud 2000 ($33, MCO), the warm and approachable Tresch Crozes Hermitage M.Chenu 2004 ($16.95, Ruby Wines), Maison Guyot Crozes Hermitage Le Millepertuis 2003 (ready soon, $24, Tastevin Selections), E.Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde 2001 (delivered a lot but it should at the price of $84.75, Torion), E.Guigal Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis 2001 (Classics in September), and a good horizontal of Saint Joseph 2003 from Cave Saint Desirat, all in the $24 – 30 range, from Trilogy: Cote Diane (oaked), Ex Septentrio (full, new oak, expressive tannins), Cuvee des Mariniers (light, off-dry), Cuvee Memoire (only 1500 cases for this organic wine), and Domaine Rochevine (fruity, intense floral notes). For more details about this show, email anne.popoff@sopexa.com. As a quality wine and food event (venue, catalogue, wines, food, people, space), this one rates a 9.8 out of 10. FRIDAY, APRIL 22, 2005 – In celebration of the New Zealand wine releases from the Vintages April 30 catalogue and the Vintages Essentials program, there was a celebration of “Perfect Pairings” with Chef Jamie Kennedy at JK Church, mid-day at lunch. The idea was to try some sauvignon blancs, some chardonnays, and some reds with various foods. We began with Kim Crawford’s Pansy Rose, with assorted breads and dips (tapenade, hummus, etc.) and ended with Canterbury House Brut 2001 (a light salmon colour, and too dry for the dessert of rhubarb and marzipan pastry and honey ice cream). There were four main courses. First up was a smoky liver and apple mousse with quince, to go with Canterbury House Pinot Gris 2004 (off-dry but good bracing acidity in the finish), Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2004 (crisp, upfront food wine), and Saint Clair Riesling 2003 ($18.95, Alsatian type, the best of the three with the liver). Next came an herbed goat cheese wrapped with Boston lettuce and olives and mesclun, for the sauvignon blanc. Eight were presented, my favourite was Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (fume type), followed by Alana Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (full-body, stands up to food), and then the Matua Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (high alcohol heat, loads of zest, and best value at $16.95). The next station featured an open lobster ravioli with bisque sauce and sweet peas, paired to chardonnay. Lightly oaked chardonnays work best, and for that we had Goldridge Estate Premium Reserve Chardonnay 2003 ($18.95) and Oyster Bay Chardonnay 2004 ($17.95). The unoaked chardonnays were overpowered, and did not work. The last station featured a rack of New Zealand lamb with two sauces, recommended with an assortment of reds. It worked best with the Stoneyridge Larose 2003 ($99.95, but it still needed time), followed by the more affordable Sileni The Triangle Merlot 2002 ($17.95, tight but good wood tones, 14% alcohol). Thanks to JK Church and Robert Ketchin for pulling it all together. For more details about any of these wines or the upcoming New Zealand Winefair (May 24 – 25, in Toronto), contact nzwine@ketchin.com or 705-444-0195. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates a definite 9 out of 10. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MARCH 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com THURSDAY, MAY 3, 2005 – Claudia Ibanez E., the Trade Commissioner of Chile, and Hector Vergara, currently President of the Chilean Sommeliers Association (and previous sommelier at Sutton Place) hosted an informal walk-around tasting of some premium and high-end Chilean wines at the event place Two Rosehill. Some agents were also present; they had some price and availability information. A request for prices, made to the PR people responsible for the tasting, never was answered. The emphasis was on reds, primarily in the $35 and up range. Outstanding was the Pinot Noir 2003 Lo Abarca Hills from Casa Marin (Hobbs Wines) full of fruit and smoke ($55); their Sauvignon Blanc Cipresses 2004 was zesty and intense, but probably a hard sell at $42. Sideral 2002 from Altair (Connexion Oenophilia, $39) is a Bordeaux blend, Euro style, tannic not fleshy, demanding food. Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Casablanca from De Martino (Diamond Estates, $18) was over the top dry and zesty. Their Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Familia 2002 ($35) showed plumminess, full tannins, firm, 14.5% alcohol. Character Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Haras de Pirque (Woodman Wines & Spirits, $39) seemed old before its time, rural in tone, but I love wines like this. Cot Reserva Limited Edition 2003 from Perez Cruz (Charton-Hobbs, $24.95) had youthful black fruit, soft lingering finish. Cot is an alternative word for Malbec. Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 from Quebrada de Macul (Halpern Enterprises, $39) was full and voluptuous, minty notes, very food oriented. Their Stella Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($18.95) showed magnificent upfront black fruit, probably the best value of the tasting. Reserva Shiraz 2003 from Tabali (Connexion Oenophilia, $16.95) was off-dry sweet, peppery, and also of good value. 26 wines in all were presented. The Winemaker Dinner afterwards served up four wines. Our first course was a terrific herbed scallop and carmelized potato napoleon. The second course was a spiced cedar plank cooked Chilean salmon with lime cilantro chili oil. With the first course came Matetic EQ Chardonnay 2003 (no agent), the only chardonnay at the tasting. It was full, with wood integration and some smoke. It overwhelmed the food. The wine with the second course was Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2004 (Lorac), zesty and fresh. It was overwhelmed by the food. What to do? Just reverse the wines: I had enough left. And the matches were 100 times better. The third course was a grilled duck breast with raspberry, blueberry, and blackberry reductions. Just right with the Leyda Pinto Noir 2003 Lot 21 (no agent). The fourth course in the protein parade was a magnificent tapenade basted Colorado rack of lamb with a rosemary cabernet sauce. Quebrada de Macul Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Halpern) was poured. The wine’s mintiness was dramatic next to the lamb. Black and white chocolate layered mousse completed the meal, Alas, there was no dessert wine. For more details of Chilean wines, contact www.forefrontcom.com As a quality wine and food event, the spacious tasting rates an 8.9. The dinner rates a 9. TUESDAY, MARCH 8, 2005 – Tonight, at Tasting Rooms, the Ontario Wine Society held its monthly meeting (and annual election of officers: there are now 249 members in Toronto). On this month’s agenda was the double vertical of Cave Spring Riesling. We were to taste and note both the Riesling Reserve and the Riesling CSV (Cave Spring Vineyard) for each of 2003, 2002, 2000, and 1999 – eight wines in all. Cave Spring’s Angelo Pavan took us through the tasting of wines, which range in price from $16.95 through $40.10 per bottle. The current Reserve is $16.95; the current CSV is $30. Produced from vines up to 27 years old (planted in 1978), growing in limestone rich clay till overlying shale and sandstone, these wines are exceptionally age worthy. I remember Cave Spring Rieslings from the Brock CCOVI wine library tasting, a few years back at the OWS; they were magnificently age worthy. Angelo was backed up by Tom Pennachetti, Marketing Director, who also attended. Cave Spring makes over 30,000 cases of wine, and six types of Riesling (table and dessert). This was definitely a cool climate tasting. It was noted that the Reserve and the CSV are different in style. The Reserve is more bold and forward, while the CSV has more residual sugar and is more Mosel-like (but of course with higher alcohol). Here are some notes: 2003 Reserve – fresh, inviting, peachy, succulent on finish 2003 CSV - reticent nose, limes, dry lemon finish, refreshing acid in length (short and cool vintage, good acid) 2002 Reserve – petrol nose, limes, high acidity, bracing, best with food 2002 CSV – alcoholic nose, marmalade, slight bitter finish 2000 Reserve – off-dry, some resin, aging nicely, lots of fruit and citric tones 2000 CSV – some age on the nose, full palate, more residual sugar. Pavan says “fresh right now” after being locked up since the beginning. 1999 Reserve – peaches, off-dry complexity, reserved, oily palate, clearly showing age 1999 CSV – some marmalade, nose fades, spicy, not as well developed as the Reserve. As a treat we has a tank sample of the 2004 Reserve, to be bottled soon – off-dry, pine, young Riesling. There were some reception wines from the wineries in Lake Erie North Shore that the OWS would be visiting in June. As usual, Tasting Rooms came up with an attractive appetizer platter: poached Ontario trout, grilled shrimp, fresh Canadian spanokopita, chicken liver pate, grilled vegetable pizza with goat cheese, and morbiere cheese. As a wine tasting event, this one rates a definite 9. MONDAY, MARCH 14, 2005 – The Wine Institute of California invited the GTA wine press to a sit-down preview tasting of the many (about 400) wines to be put out for the April 18th trade show (Fairmont Royal York). It was held at Far Niente, and a light lunch was served afterwards. We tasted 58 wines in different flights; they were tasted blind until the end of each flight. Here are some notes on my favourites: -Nichols Winery Edna Ranch Chardonnay 2000 (Le Sommelier, $49.50) – brown sugar nose, long length, very juicy, more a sipper than a food wine. -Firestone Central Coast Select 2003 (Vintages, $13.25) – clean brisk palate, some wood, balance here is important. -Bonterra Mendocino 2003 (Vintages Essentials, $19.95) – limes, good acid, some wood on the back palate, integrated. -Robert Mondavi Private Selection Central Coast Pinot Noir (Churchill, $20.95) – vanilla on nose, some burnt sugar, broad fruit on palate, yet soft finish. -Seghesio Family Old Vine Zinfandel 2002 (Pacific Wines & Spirits, $46.95) – full, firm, integrated, a bit taut but fleshy. -Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Diageo, $29.95) – cassis on the nose, good consistency from start to finish. -Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Classics, $49) – ripe, ready, fruity, delicious. Great BYOW for restaurant dining. -Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Vintages, $98.25) – hard wood on the nose, soft and fruity, lingering. -EOS Estate Reserve Petite Syrah 2000 (Esprit, $28.95) – concentrated, good depth, and approachable now. Priced to sell. As a wine tasting event, this one rates a solid 9. MONDAY, MARCH 21, 2005 – Alain Rochard came to town to lead a tasting of some of his new wines from Le Loup Blanc. The tasting was held in the new tasting room of Crus et Saveurs’ Alain Laliberte. Rochard and his partners bought a winery in Minervois in December 2002. He now spends half his time in Montreal running a restaurant, and the rest in France. Here, he wanted to present his first red vintage 2003. His vineyard faces the Pyrenees, and is planted with typical southern France grape varieties, some of which are over 100 years old (Alicante, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Tempranillo, and some minor white varieties). Everything is done by hand, with low yields and hand picking. Only ripe grapes make it into the winery. We began with a VDP Rose du Val de Cesse 2004 (“Le Petit Chaperon Rose”), now selling for $16 in Quebec. The blend is mainly syrah, chenancon, tempranillo, and grenache. The youngest vines were 25 years old. It had a fresh nose with youthful vigour, good finishing acid, and seemed best with food (we had a light deli luncheon). For packaging, it had an attractive frosty bottle. Le Regal du Loup rouge 2003 was next; it goes for $32 in Quebec, but at 5 Euros ex-cellar, it could be $22 in Ontario. It was 76% carignan, with equal parts grenache and Cinsault. The vines were 20 to 100 years old. The thickly rich body was impressive with its flavourful tannins, but a lot was unresolved. The finish was both unctuous and herbal. Rochard brought along some barrel samples of two other 2003 wines, both priced at 6.5 Euros ex-cellars. The Old Grandmother 2003 is mainly syrah, from exceedingly old vines, 15.5% alcohol, off-dry, slightly raisinated with a puckery finish. But it was absolutely first rate with food. Les Trois P’tits C 2003 (a grenache, syrah, carignan, tempranillo, alicante blend) sells for the same price. It too needed time, and it too was about 15.5% alcohol. The winery is moving into biodynamic principles. For more details, contact Alain Laliberte at www.crusetsaveurs.com or 416-239-4451. As a wine tasting event this one rated an 8.5. TUESDAY, MARCH 22, 2005 – “Experience Germany” was the name of the German wine tasting at Roy Thomson Hall. It began with a trade seminar for writers and LCBO that showcased wines from 1983, 1993, and 2003. From Rheingau’s Schloss Schonborn we tasted 2003 Riesling Kabinett Erbacher Marcobrunn (somewhat perfumey, good body and mouthfeel, wonderful fruit on back palate), the 1993 (aged nicely, developed well, good bracing acidity, some off-dry character dropping out: my favourite of the nine wines tasted at this seminar), and the 1983 (golden colour, nicely dry at this point). From Rheingau’s Weingut Balthasar Ross, we tasted 2003 Riesling Auslese Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen (good acid on nose, soft honeyed tones, some caramel), a 1993 (aging well but thinning), and a 1983 Riesling Spatlese that seemed thin by comparison. A totally different experience came from Mosel’s Weingut Markus Molitor. The 2003 Riesling Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr was made with natural yeast, five percent done up in barrel fermentation, and no additives. The dryish herbal nose and long fruit on the palate showed Mosel all the way, grapey, elegant, refreshing. The 1993 was well- preserved but light. The 1983 was from a different vineyard (Wehlener Klosterberg); it was very dry in the finish, but with some herbal complexity. The seminar was followed by a buffet luncheon (chicken in riesling sauce, salmon, thai noodles, and cheeses) from Daniel et Daniel. We sat at various tables with agents. I drew HHD Imports, and consequently availed myself of their marvelous red St. Laurent QbA 2003 from Anselmann ($13.95, Vintages) and the Oretega Trockenbeerenauslese 1999, to be released at the bargain price of $35 a half-bottle in December, just in time for Christmas. From the show itself, I enjoyed quite a few wines; I did not taste all of them. All price ranges and styles ere available, ranging from Kabinett through TBA and Eiswein, mostly 2003 and 2002. There were a sprinkling of non-Riesling, such as Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Noir. Some impressive wines were the 2002 Riesling Beerenauslese Johannisberger Klaus ($207.25, Churchill Cellars), the 2003 Gewurztraminer QbA (#336735, $9.95), the Lila Riesling Sekt Dry ($15.95 Vintages on Rolling Order), the wood tones of the 2003 Dornfelder Barrique Dry Trittenheimer Altarchen (Connoisseur), the 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese Bechtheimer Geyersberg ($35.90 half bottle, Connoisseur), the 2003 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Bechtheimer Gotteshilfe ($12.95 Vintages), the 2003 Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr Studert Prum (Vinexx), the 2003 Gewurztraminer Pfalz Valckenberg ($13.35, Vintages soon), the exceptional 2003 Madonna Eiswein Valckenberg with 100% riesling ($35 half-bottle, Lacey), and the refreshing 2002 Riesling Kabinett Zeltlinger Himmelreich Molitor (June Vintages). And the German Wine Information Bureau did a great job with the catalogue. As a quality wine and food trade show, this one rates an 8.9. TUESDAY, MARCH 22, 2005 – After the German show, I hopped on the Red Rocket to the Toronto Hunt, just in time to partake in the first of three seminars put on by the Peter Mielzynski Agencies. Every other year, PMA hosts a gigantic portfolio tasting (Chairman’s Gala) at the Toronto Hunt. Each one has been organized by Todd Mcdonald. In mid-day, he starts us off with seminars, to whet our whistles. The first featured Susan Sokol Blosser who talked about organic viticulture in her company in Oregon. Her Pinot Noir is now sustainable with 72 acres grown organically (53 for Pinot Noir, 7 for Pinot Gris) in the Dundee Hills appellation. As she says, “what we used to call weeds we now call biodiversity”. The company uses cats to fight rodents, they compost and use boron for soil treatments, they encourage birds and owls, flowers, etc. We tasted the Estate Pinot Noir 2002, first vintage ever from the Dundee Hills AVA and first with organic certification. It spent 16 months in barrel. The company uses Dijon clones and Pommard clones. All of it resulted in a rich, fruity, North American style, cherry chocolate, fruit-forward. We also had a 2001 OVLot Estate Cuvee (with 40% Old Vines, about 25 years old. This had less fruit. The first sample showed incipient corkiness (fruit-shy, some must). A second sample was dramatically better. The second seminar was a Stelvin cap vs. cork comparison tasting via Villa Maria of New Zealand. Cheery Stuart Devine, former viticulturalist at the winery, led us through the tasting of four samples: two sauvignon blancs (one cork, one screwcap) and two rieslings. Again, the differences were dramatic, at about the same level as the differences between the 2002 and 2001 pinots at Sokol Blosser. In both cases, the screwcap was more fruity and “fresh”. But there were also some subtle characteristics in the sauvignon blanc, something that could be related to “aging”. The third seminar (there was also another on Appleton rums which I did not sign up for) was a “once in a lifetime” chance to have three Bordeaux from three separate centuries. Francis Unique from Robert Giraud S.A. came over to help pour three different wines from Chateau Villemaurine (St. Emilion). We tasted 1865 (assassination of Lincoln), 1914 (the Great War begins), and 2001 (9/11) – great wines and great tragedies. The 1865 is valued at $26K. Hand picked, feet pressed, pre-phylloxera, no malo-lactic fermentation. It was recorked for a case of 12; there are now just 10 bottles left at the chateau cellars. It was clear and bright, distinguished cabernet family nose, light finish in decline but still complex on the nose and palate. It took some time to come around with aeration but then it died. The 1914 is valued at $8K. The nose was somewhat vegetative but this changed with aeration. Good Bordeaux tang and length, even some wood tones. The 2001, now selling for a mere $85, showed chocolate and cassis, ripe and ready soon, showing its 85% merlot character. My thanks to PMA and Todd for allowing me to taste these wines. So, on to the wines: I could not taste everything, but I did enjoy the following samples – Wente Charles Wetmore Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (fullish, chocolate tones), Chateau Timberlay Bordeaux Superiore 2003 (good depth, juicy and jammy, some Bordeaux tang), Nino Negri Sfursat 2001 Lombardy ($38.95 in July, great nebbiolo hit from a lighter region, more like a modest but ready Barolo), Proemio Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Argentina (impressive, full of fruit), Chateau de Sancerre Cuvee du Connetable 2002 (great intensity from the Loire), Sixth Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Coonawarra Nugan Estate (bright, big, fruity, excellent finish for food), Louis Felipe Edwards Merlot Reserve 2003 Chile ($15.95 July consignment, good cabernet family hit on the palate, peppers), Collosorbo Sorbus Toscana IGT Rosso 2001 (SuperTuscan, but only $39.95 in July, pretty good Italianate wine), Vigneti del Parco Rosso Conero Riserva 2000 Marches ($29.95 July, juicy character), Sokol Blosser Meditrina 1st edition ($29.95, June, south Rhonish complexity from pinot noir, syrah, and zinfandel), Luis Felipe Edwards Chardonnay Reserva 2004 Chile ($15.95, July consignment, a steal at this price: intense fruit and wood), Donum Estate Pinot Noir 2001 Carneros ($130 consignment, only 120 bottles for all of Canada: plenty of fruit, well-aged California pinot noir), Proemio Malbec 2003 Argentina ($11.95, July, good aging, Euro-style, attractive price), Luis Felipe Edwards Carmenere Reserva 2003 Chile ($15.95, delicious Euro-style depth in a Chilean wine), Montecillo 130th Anniversary 1994 Gran Reserva Rioja ($66, private order, consistently great quality, especially in an older Rioja), Collazzi Toscana IGT 2001 ($45.95 in July, North American fruity style for a SuperTuscan). The best wines of the evening, for the price/value component, were the Luis Felipe Edwards line from Chile. There was also a Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2003 which was really terrific in its appeal. This crowded walkaround for clients, LCBO, and media was complemented by traditional haunches of beef and lamb, platters of salmon, assorted hors d’oeuvre, many cheeses and cold cuts, breads, crudités, and the like. At the end of the evening, there were dessert wines and rare spirits, with a chocolate fountain, fruits, and many sweets. PMA certainly went all out with its 21 Year Old Jamaica Rum (Appleton), Grand Marnier Cuvee Cent – Cinquantenaire ($235), Camus Extra ($400) and Camus XO ($220), Calvados Boulard 21 Year Old Decanter ($200), Glenfiddich and The Balvenie 30 year old single malts. The evening was not to be enjoyed for another two years. Most of the wines at the Gala were to be available by consignment in July. But of course some are already here, and others will appear in Vintages. The pouring staffs were especially knowledgeable about the wines’ availability and price. For further details, contact PMA at 905- 820-4117 or www.pmacanada.com. As a wine portfolio event, this one rates a 9. WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 – The next trade show was the “Wines of South Africa” , co-sponsored by the Department of Trade and Industry South Africa. The tasting was held at St.Lawrence Hall mid-day; the producers and winemakers were on their way back to South Africa after being at the Vancouver Playhouse the previous week. It was a glorious opportunity to catch up with some high end SA wines. But first, the wine press assembled for a table-top tasting at the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar. Principals and their wines included DeWetshof, Graham Beck (Chardonnay at $15.95, Sparkler at $17.95 through Vintages), Jordan (Jardin) Winery, Morgenhof, Omnia, Rustenberg, Springfield, Winery of good Hope, Van Loveren, Vergelegen, and Vinimark. Not your usual lineup. Some of the nifty wines I enjoyed included Delheim Pinotage Rose 2004 (strong character), the Viognier screwcap from Kumala, the Van Loveren Chardonnay 2000 with its three months of barrel aging, the Springfield Estate Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2003 ($25, some anise, balance with fruit), the Springfield Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Special Cuvee (20 year old vines, three months lees contact), the Vergelegen 2002 (76% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 4% franc, and $59) with its knockout punch, the Meerlust Pinot Noir (definite California style), the French style of the Porcupine Ridge Syrah, Thandi’s Pinot Noir elegance, and the warmness of the Delheim Shiraz Vera Cruz 2001. While the food and cheeses at JK were excellent, somebody decided to toast rosemary (?) bushes. This clouded the whole tasting experience, since everything nosed of burning herbs…Too bad. The show itself was better, at least in the air quality. Some of my favourite wines (as always, I could not taste everything) were the Donatus White 2003 (#597278, Vintages, $18.95: a floral Conundrum clone), the Eventide Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (#657692, Vintages October 2005, $20.80), the stunning Joubert-Tradauw Chardonnay 2001 ($28.50, call MCO) and their R62 Cabernet Merlot 2001 ($17.95, a tannic and dry food wine), and pretty well all of the Newton Johnson line of red (Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $19.95; Pinot Noir 2003, $26.95; Syrah Mourvedre 2003, $24.95: check with MCO on availability, 905-562-1392). Obikwa weighed in with Nederburg Private Bin Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($24.95, $541821, Mark Anthony) as ripe elegance, soft finish. Meerlust Rubicon 1999 (Bordeaux blend and complexity) at $43 from HHD Imports on consignment. Chardonnay 2004 from Janeza Western Cape was a bargain at $12.65 (Bottled Concepts). Hobbs and Co. put out Weltevrede Gewurztraminer 2003 ($16 or so, great bitterness flavours) and Bedrock Black Syrah 2003 ($23). Lamprecht scaled back from his usual 123 wines to just a few, most notably Muratie Anseta 2002, a cab- merlot-syrah blend which showed good aging potential ($28 at Classics). Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2003 ($13.95, November 2005) showed the requisite amount of wood treatment balancing apples-lemons. Beyerskloof had an energetic blend called Synergy 2001 (39% merlot, 36% pinotage, 25% cabernet sauvignon, $23 from Rouge et Blanc 416-686- 2559). The Out of Africa Chardonnay 2004 ($12, Wineworld) had skin contact and four months of lees aging. Lammershoek Roulette Rouge 2003 (a south Rhone blend of syrah, carignan, and grenache) weighed in at 14.5% alcohol). I wish I could have tasted more wines, but a portfolio tasting awaited me in the early evening. For more details on wines or about this and any other South African event, check www.winesofsouthafrica.ca. The catalogue was a lot better this time, even though it had no page numbers. As a quality trade event, this one rated an 8.8. WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 -- Pacific Wine and Spirits held its portfolio tasting at the Boulevard Club on Lakeshore West. It was a quick hop along King Street via TTC, and then a pleasant walk on the overpass. Pacific reps Kittling Ridge (Ontario), Fonseca ports and table wines, Taittinger champagnes, Miquel Torres (Chile), a range of French and Italian wines through De Rham, an independent selector in Europe, Fess Parker (California), and Hamilton Ewell (Australia), among others. Some of the wines which showed well included Taittinger Brut Reserve (#814723, $57.95) and the fresh Miguel Torres Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($177444, a bargain priced $9.95). New to the General List next September will be a Fonseca Tawny port retailing at $14.95; it was easily worth more than that. Barbara DeRham’s wineries were worthy of exploring. They included Faset Barbaresco 2000 and Monchiero Barolo Riserva 1998 ($59.95), the latter still needing time in bottle. A Carlo Botter Valpolicella Calmaroni 2002 (#866533, $12.95) and Multepulciano d’Abruzzo 2002 (+823732, $13.45) were both smooth and fragrant. His Altana Pinot Grigio 2004 (+839076, $11.95) was full of apples in a reduced acid style. Fess Parker Pinot Noir 2002 Santa Barbara was straight out of “Sideways”, and is selling well because of that. The Hamilton Ewell line showed typicity, but with the Bulletin Chardonnay ($16.95, +781401) being unwooded. In the elegant surroundings of the Boulevard Club, this portfolio tasting rates an 8.5. TUESDAY, MARCH 29, 2005 – Today we “Roam the Rhone” with a select tasting of mainly southern Rhone wines available in Ontario. This was a media preview tasting to the big show on Monday April 25 (Carlu) which will feature some 300 wines from Alsace and the Rhone. It was held at Didier. I was mildly disappointed that there were few North Rhone wines to sample, but that reflected the balance of the producers and suppliers at the bigger show. As it was, the Cote Rotie here had tea notes and tannins galore from a hard year of 2000. The white Hermitage 2000 was better, but will be a tough sell at $65 for this lean vintage year. The Condrieu 2002, at $69.95, was a little meager. So that sets the stage for the rest of the Rhones. Cotes du Rhone White Reserve 2003 from Perrin et Fils (+499509, $13.95 Vintages) was my fave white (half grenache blanc, one-fifth bourboulenc, one-tenth marsanne, rousanne, and viognier. Delicious, succulent mouthfeel. Cotes du Rhone Red 2002 from Domaine des Coccinelles was made from organic grapes, but there is no indication via a certificate that it is an “organic wine” processed organically – just that it uses organic grapes. There was good syrah beefy hit to the nice taste (+608786, $15.95 Vintages). The Cotes du Rhone Red 2001 from Guigal (+259721, $18.20 General List) was well- worth the extra money at this level. There was a good depth to the nose, as well as a long, enjoyable length. The Rasteau (a CDR Villages) 2000 from Feraud-Brunel ($23.95, +653006 Vintages) had an elegant nose, broad fruit on the mid-palate, good detail on the finish, 14% alcohol. One of my favourite wines from this tasting was the Gigondas Domaine Saint Gayan 2000 (+718221, $34.95 Vintages), showing integration, development, aging, some wood, some gaminess. Great with the blue cheese at lunch. Food was a buffet of salmon appetizers, amuse-bouche, skewers of beef and a chicken ballotine, plus cheeses and café noir. It was a nice relaxing time. As a media preview function, this one rates a 9. TUESDAY, MARCH 29, 2005 – Right after the Didier Rhone tasting, we raced down to the Intercontinental Toronto (Bloor Street) for a seminar and trade show “Experience the Greek Wine Renaissance”. Sofia Perpera, Director of All About Greek Wine, and Tony Aspler co-led a seminar which tasted some 18 wines of different styles and complexity. This was followed by an open tasting with even more wines, about 36 in all. And complimented with appetizers and cheeses. Prices and availability were sort of vaguish, but most of the wines were mid-range, fresh and fruity, with little wood aging. Wineries included Oenoforos, Domaine Spiropoulos (organic wines), Domaine Tselepos, Enoteca Emery, Gentilini, Domaine Sigalas, Ktima Pavlidi. There were two sweeties, both Samos. In addition to the regular listing at the LCBO, there was a fresh Nectar Grand Cru, unaged. From Oenoforos I enjoyed Ianos, made from 60% xinomavro and 40% cabernet sauvignon, selling at around $27. The very good Antonopoulos Private Collection 2002 Mavrodaphne-Merlot was a favourite of mine, as was the Domaine Tselepos Villa Amalia Sparkling ($20 coming to Vintages). The Domaine Gerovassiliou Red (syrah, merlot) was North American in style and in price ($25). Semeli Mount Helios Nemea 2000 was definite North America fruit-forward, and retails at about $20 (Rubaiyat). One older tasting wine was Sigalas Santorini Oak, barrel-fermented assyrtiko grapes, at about $23.50 a bottle. A bargain was the Tsolis Ampelou Gis Red 2002, made from tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon in a 50-50 split; it was $15 on consignment. Ktima Pavlidi’s Red was 40% limnio, 40% cabernet sauvignon, and 20% merlot, about $25; half of it was aged in US oak (strong coconut on the nose). It was awfully reminiscent of many California wines. After years of not marketing too well, the Greeks finally got it right. Their short catalogue, though, could have had agents and phone numbers listed. As the tasting was shoulder to shoulder, it was very hard to break into the flow and get queries answered. I gave you what little I had, the rest you’ll have to get from www.allaboutgreekwine.com. As a trade event, this one rates a 7.8. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR FEBRUARY 2005 ======================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2005 – Today we took “A Tour of the Wine Regions of Portugal”, sponsored by the Ambassador of Portugal to Canada, ViniPortugal, and ICEP Portugal. The mid-day trade tasting of a variety of Portuguese wines (most seeking representation in Ontario) was held at the University Club. Unfortunately, being the first real trade tasting since Beaujolais Nouveau in November, the venue was quickly crowded and was quickly overheated and There were about 140 wines to try, plus as assorted of quickly-depleted appetizers and Portuguese cheeses. The trade army moves on its stomach… The catalogue was put together in BOTTLE order (that was a first), so as one moved from table to table, one had to keep track of which bottles were where. Agents were not listed in the catalogue, and those that were at the show were not always pouring. Too many people, arms and shoulders, meant that signage was not visible, nor were spit buckets. It was a chore to sort everything out. So I just plowed my way through, asking questions whenever I could. If you have any questions, then please address them to trade host William Delgado at icep.toronto@icep.pt Of the wines I did taste, there was no contest for the best wines at the show: those put out by F.W.P. Trading (fwptradinginc.on@on.aibn.com). Their principals include Quinta do Cotto (the current Red is at Vintages, $19.95: ripe and full), Cistus, Niepoort, CARM, Quinta de Pancas, JP Vinhos, Finagra-Esporao, J.Portugal Ramos, and on and on. Check out their full catalogue. Prices range from $12 up. Most are around the $20 – 25 mark. I also liked the Marques de Borba Reserva 2000, the Quinta do Zambujeiro series (repped by Santos Vins Fins), the new General Listing (in May) Casal Branco The Cork Grove, produced from the castelao and merlot grapes, CSPC 620625, from the Ribatejo region, and I liked the Falcoaria Reserva Ribatejo 2001. Two consignment wines I appreciated were the Lagar dos Saraivas 2000 Douro ($42.50 from Rubaiyat, 416-462-1577) and the Castelinho Colheita Especial 2000 Douro ($24.65, Rubaiyat). As a wine and food event, this one rates 7.8 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2005 – The very next day, the wine press trotted out to the Distillery District (Fermenting Cellar) for the official launch of the LCBO “France Ooh La La!” promotion. The MC was Chris Layton, well-known LCBO Media Relations Co-ordinator. He welcomed His Excellency Ambassador of France, Daniel Jouanneau, and various French promotion and LCBO officials. After the usual speeches (which never mentioned the declining sales of French wines in Canada), there was a creation of a seven-foot-high cascade of sorbet glasses to be filled with champagne. Too bad, but there was NO sabering. Unfortunately, they only opened ONE magnum for the photo op. After it was drained, they walked away – leaving a shabby and chintzy looking pile of glasses, partially filled with champagne. They never completed the cascade. Why waste a magnum of champagne? None of these glasses were even passed around, and the “sculpture” was still there when the set was struck and we all went home. Wines came from an assortment of agents, and were mostly from the General List. There was Mommessin, Dopff au Moulin, Louis Latour, Calvet, Jaffelin, Boisset, Bouchard Aine, Dourthe, Yvon Mau, JeanJean, and Louis Bernard, plus even some winemakers from these companies – that was a surprise. There were also a number of corked wines, including one very expensive wine from Le Domaine de la Vougeraie. By the time I got to it, the bottle was almost half-empty. It was obviously corked: so did ten or so people taste it and just walk away? Did they have a palate? Or different standards? Kronenbourg 1664 was there (and they could have used it in the cascade so that the appearance would be better). LCBO stores were showcasing about 260 French wines, including 140 reds, 91 whites, 19 Champagnes and sparkling wines, and 9 roses. Plus the special pre-Valentine Day release at Vintages – another 80 wines. French appetizers, including an excellent pissaladiere, were plated around the room. It was all fun, except for the tacky cascade. As a wine and food event, this one ranked 7.7 out of 10. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2005 – Here it is Valentine’s Day, and the French strike again, this time at Marc Thuet (609 King Street) for an amazing lunch which seemed to go on forever. Luckily I had the time to spend on it. This was to be a major tasting of Alsatian wines, mid-day. It started a little late and finished at rush hour. We tasted about 25 wines in all, some braced against Thuet’s Alsatian cuisine. Some of the wines I liked were in the traditional style, that is, more citric than fruity. The newer style is meant to appeal to fanciers of Oriental food; it is also the result of hotter summers, in which the wines are fatter in style. Dopff & Irion Riesling 2003 (+649806, $14.95 General Listing) showed the lemons with a good dose of dryness. The more fruity Dopff Au Moulin Riesling 2003 (+649772, $14) was mouth-filling. The Gustave Lorentz Pinot Gris 2003 (+649780, $14.95) had a screwcap: it was off-dry on the mid-palate. The Leon Beyer Riesling Reserve 2003 (+81471, $14.55) had a good heft, lots of body at this price level. One of my favourites of the day was the Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer 2003 (+373373, $16.05) a great value on the General List. From Vintages, I enjoyed Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer Reserve 2002 (+926931, $19.95) a full, rich, dramatic wine with little bitterness in the finish – until it warmed up. From the expensive wines, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Zind 2001 (+626796, $34.95) was fully ripe. We had five wines with lunch, some being repeats. The Paul Blanck Pinot Gris Patergarten 2002 (+641803, $28.95) was intense, rich, ripe, good price for caramel. It was a superb wine match for the “foie gras au torchon et truffes avec s gelee de canard”. This followed by a “pot au feu Strasbourgeois”, with marrow quenelles and a sorbet of gewürztraminer marc. Up to now, we had four superb tiny plates of food, just right for a lunch of eight courses. Then came the big mistake: choucroute garnie au riesling. It was fabulous, but there was too much of it. There were at least four different kinds of pork products (hams, sausages) – but two slices of each!! Most of the portions were sent back because few could eat it all. Now, those that know me also know that I can eat to excess: even this was too much for me. I felt sorry for the kitchen, for we had three more courses to run through. The Albert Mann Riesling Cuvee Albert 2002 (+987073, $26.95 Vintages) was a nicely matched wines, brimming with fruit. Next up was Alsatian cheeses wrapped in puff pastry on a coulis of Poire William. Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Reserve 2002 (+747600, $19.95) did the nifty accompanying. Dessert was a kirsch flavoured kugelhopf parfait with a rumtopf coulis, followed by mignardises and coffees. And the Domaine Martin Zahn Muscat 2002 (+695932, $16.95) was off-sweet enough to be with the dessert. Thanks to Sopexa for arranging the event. As a quality food and wine event, this one rates 9.3 out of 10. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2005 – The Cuvee Preview tasting was held at the Scrivener Square LCBO store. This was a chance to taste about 50 wines which were to be among the top wines of the 2005 Cuvee in Niagara-on- the-Lake. It was a vastly different event than the one that the Wine Writers’ Circle enjoyed for almost the past decade. Previously, we used to gather at Tasting Rooms, on a Saturday. Our Administrator Sadie Darby would lay out some 200 wines along with technical notes and prices. The WWCC paid for the labour and the paper. We’d have several hundred glasses available, separate tables, and air circulation – paid for by Chris Boland of Tasting Rooms. We’d also have four or five hours to taste the whole range of wines. We were alone, with no winemakers or wine sales staff. In the late afternoon, sommeliers would drop by as well as some Ontario Wine Society members to continue tasting. The bottles were largely all used up (there was no waste); we only got one sample of each. It was magnificent. Today though, everything was just about the opposite. The Events Kitchen was just too small for the photo ops, wine makers, pourers, sales staff, WCO people, LCBO, other media, and the wine writers. It was hot and stuffy from the lights and the people. The white wines, which in prior years had been chilled, were served at room temperature; this service just heightened any flaws. The red wines seemed to be above room temperature, no doubt from being in the hot room. Non-writers were trying to make conversation and intruding on my own -- and other writers' -- thoughts. We were tasting only 50 wines, not 200. We were cheek and jowl, arm and shoulder, trying to write notes on a crowded table. It was more like a trade show than a chance to assess the best of the Ontario wine industry. In the kitchen demo area, there was a display of Canadian cheeses. Unfortunately, four of the cheeses were from Quebec. The one from Toronto was a knockoff of a Portuguese cheese. The cheeses were outstanding, but why couldn’t they all be from Ontario? The wines were from Ontario…Think globally, act locally. Where was Woolwich? Balderston? There are scores of local cheeses in Ontario. But they were not here. We were encouraged to taste the cheese against some of the wines. This meant swallowing, which I try not to do at trade shows. Certainly, there were no buckets to spit out food and wine together. Indeed, I was encouraged to spit into a hand held spittoon rather than into a bucket – just one more thing to carry around, along with my one glass, pen, paper, and notes. I came along the line of chardonnays after many others, and because I read labels, I found one bottle set in the line out of order: did that affect other taster’s notes? I wonder. Were these the best wines? At least three of the wines tasted had some pyrazine (ladybug): two whites from 2003 and one red from 2001. Ah, I long for the old days of multiple glasses and peace and quiet. I had to later request technical sheets and prices, which we automatically got at previous pre-Cuvee tastings. The gracious Linda Watts of the Wine Council quickly sent them on to me (thanks, Linda!). Given the quality of the room and the poor tasting conditions, I had to re-taste a few wines later for a second opinion. One wine writer, who brought his own glasses, eventually requested a separate room for recording his tasting notes. The best sparkler on display was Thirteenth Street Wine Funk Sparkling Rose 2002; the best whites were the two Chardonnays from Niagara College Teaching Winery (the Barrel Fermented/Barrel Aged, a North American style for $21.95, and the Warren Classic, a Burgundian style for $27.95). I also enjoyed the ripe, honeyed nose of the Coyote’s Run Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2003, but I knew it would be expensive: the price I received later was $36. The overheated reds did not show well either, but I did enjoy the bargain-priced Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Merlot 2002 ($14.25) with some woody oak tones. The Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve LCV 2002 ($24.95) was soft and fruity, almost ready, almost merlot-like, and certainly affordable. The Peninsula Ridge Cabernet 2002 (2/3 sauvignon, 1/3 franc), $15.95) was a definite Euro-style. I sampled the Flat Rock Cellars Vidal Icewine 2003 ($44.95) because it was a screwcap. But where were the off-dry table wines? There was only one Late Harvest Vidal 2003 from Niagara College Teaching Winery. I tried the RoyalDeMaria Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2002 (it was ok), and then discovered on the emailed price list that it was $219.95. Had I known, I would have spent more time with it! Memo to Cuvee folks: Don't take this as a sour grapes reaction. Thanks for the tasting, but read my notes and change the tasting event for next year to accomodate the real writers on Ontario wine. Please. As a wine and food event, this one ranks a 6 out of 10. THURDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2005 – It was the annual Bouchard/Fevre tasting, hosted by the agent Woodman Wines and Spirits 416-767-5114 (www.woodmanwinesandspirits.com) at George Restaurant, from mid-day on. There were about 35 village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines from the 2003 vintage. M. Luc Bouchard himself was here to talk with everybody, and he presented quite a few technical notes for the interested. It was an unstructured tasting for the fruity, forward, rich and ripe 2003 vintage. Most people started with the Chablis, and then moved to White Burgundy, ending with Red Burgundy. My favourite among the Chablis was the William Fevre Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent 1er Cru, about $57 and mid-way in price between the modest and the Grand Cru. The General Listed Champs Royaux ($22) gives good value for the dollar, but of course the Les Clos Grand Cru ($98) and the Bougros Grand Cru ($77) are magnificent. It was a short list of white burgundies this year, but since all the wines are available for private order, Woodman has the full catalogue for purchases. Just 35 wines were for tasting today. Out of 16 white burgundies available for purchase, we were able to taste 4. The Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2003 was the best value, $98 for a blazing surrealness with some wood points. The Corton Charlemagne 2003 was excellent, but $147. Also terrific was the Chevalier Montrachet, but at $290 who can buy? There were some pretty good reds at all price points. My fave was the Beaune 1er cru Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus, $120 (the price keeps climbing), showing the soul of pinot noir and excellent length. Less expensive wines that showed well included Pommard 1er cru Chanline ($93) and Volnay 1er cru Cailerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot ($84). We also had the top rated Le Corton with new wood nuances ($125) and the Vosne Romanee 1er cru Les Suchots, with plenty of fruit and vanilla on the nose ($139). As a quality wine event, this one rates a 8.8 out of 10. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2005 – It was a triple play day, and the Small Winemakers Collection’s monthly portfolio and Vintages preview tasting was the second event, held at their palatial offices on Broadview. Here are some notes: -Fattoria la Monacesca 2003 Verdicchio (Marches), $19.95, consignment: verdicchio like you’ve never had before, full bodied and a fruited merger of a uniblend and a regular bottling. -Mount Eden 2001 Macgregor Chardonnay (Edna Valley), $26.95, Vintages: good wood aging, fair price, mature wine, good for BYO to a resto. -Cantine Rallo Nero d’Avola 2002 (Sicily), $16.60 consignment: rustic, dense, but best with cheese and bread. -La Tunella L’Arcione 2001 (Friuli), $30 consignment: a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and local schioppottino, done up in small French oak, dense, North American style. Almost a superfFriuli? -Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (Santenay) 1er cru Gravieres, $52.95 Vintages: actually, more of a Pacific Rim wine, brimming with dense textures of black fruit. -Wirra Wirra Shiraz 2002 McLaren Vale, $32.95: bright fruit, beguiling, food wine. More details at Small Winemakers 416-463-7178 or www.smallwinemakers.ca As a wine event, this one rates an 8 out of 10. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2005 – The third tasting of the day was actually more social than business, for Wines of South Africa invited my wife and I to a wine tasting followed by the Soweto Gospel Choir at the Hummingbird Centre. The wine press was invited to sample about 10 wines in advance of the upcoming wine show in March at St. Lawrence Hall. Canapes were served with the wines, and during the intermission, cheeses and desserts and coffee came out. Here are some wine notes: -Fairview Viognier 2003, +906487, $19.95 Vintages: good intensity and long length, expressive of fruit. -Kumala Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003, +610915, May release: dynamite delivery at this price level, 40% shiraz shines through, bright fruit, very showy, patio wine for summer. -Goats do Roam in Villages Red 2002, +566851, $14.95 Vintages: quite a step up from the regular Goats, for only $3 more. Very Rhonish in style, the syrah side. -La Motte Shiraz 2002, +652685, $19.95, July release: a bit sharp but smoothed out with breathing time, needs some space but will repay with fruit. Food. -Delheim Sperling & Sperling Rose 2004, +55274, $12.95 Spring release: a rose with character, very well done. For more details on South African wines, contact Laurel Keenan at keenan@propellerpr.com 416-698-8112. As a wine and food event (even without the fabulous Choir), this one rates a 8.8 out of 10. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2005 -- The Washington Wine Commission initiative led a tasting of fine wines from that state at Windows in the Four Seasons, bright and early in the morning. Moderating were Steve Burns (Executive Director), and wine writers David Lawrason and Anthony Gismondi. Twelve wines were presented in the seminar, to 36 participants. This was followed by a luncheon and then a very brief trade show of some 40 wines. Then there was another seminar, this time to the LCBO product consultants. Because of the tightness of the schedule, the abbreviated trade show meant that I could not taste many wines (even for that small number!). The quality, range and expressiveness were well-shown this day. Many wines were unfortunately not available in this market, or only as private orders. There are only a handful of Washington wines here on consignment or at Vintages or General List. One surprise of the seminar was an indication of how much French oak is used in the area. Even the Novelty Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($17.50US) used French oak in its barrel fermentation. There was an interesting Thurston Wolfe 2003 Pinot Gris/Viognier (30% Viognier, aged briefly in French oak, $15US) which, in its fruitiness, is clearly after the Conundrum market. Januik 2002 Merlot ($25US) showed restrained French oak, but was clearly full and ripe with enough finishing acidity for food. Everything by the Gordon Brothers was excellent, including the 2001 Syrah (Barrique Wine Imports, $33.15) done for a French palate, and the Merlot 2001, Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, and Kamiak 2002 (their Bordeaux blend). Another wine that was head and shoulders above the crowd was L’Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Barrique Wine Imports, $44.36) which, despite its sweet nose, was firm and taut, with a long finish needing time. Some companies, seeking representation, were at the end tables of the show, but then the overall arrangement was alphabetical and these guys had names lower down in the alphabet. It just looked odd, because the Washington Wine Commission had a table of some half-dozen wines with no notes or reps or anything (they were not in the catalogue). And whose idea was it to serve Coca Cola at lunch? As a quality wine and food event, this one rates an 8.4 out of 10 (mainly for the seminar). WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2005 – It was a full day today, all at the hands of the three region Italian tasting, sponsored by the Regione Emilia-Romagna, RegioneLombardia, and Regione del Veneto. The wines and foods of Lombardy, Veneto and Emilia-Romagna were featured at the all- day trade event, organized by the Italian Trade Commission under the auspices of the Consulate General of Italy at the Four seasons Hotel. The day opened with a media presentation and a technical tasting of the cheese and wines of the three regions by a panel of Canadian and Italian experts. Alain Laliberte presented the cheeses of the three areas, while reps from each area presented accompanying wines to highlight each characteristic. We ended up with eight cheeses and ten wines (the wines were identified for regions, grapes, and vintages, but not by label; the cheeses also had no brand names). From Lombardy we had Bitto and Valtellina Casera cheeses; from Veneto, there was Asiago d’Allevo and Brillo di Treviso, Ubriaco (my fave of the day, showing a pineapple character); from Emilia-Romagna we had Pecorino di Fossa (slightly bitter) and Bocconcino di Pecorino scoperino. After a standup lunch buffet (wildly confusing: where do we sit? Very difficult to eat a large plate standing up) which offered no meat from the regions but plenty of cheeses, we began the walkabout-walkaround of over 40 producers. Most were looking for representation. The catalogue was arranged by region, and it included the wines also to be shown in Montreal (but not in Toronto). Of course, this never really matched up with the location of the stands. Although page numbers were listed at the stands, they were obscured by the arms and shoulders of the tasters. And the page numbers in the catalogue were extremely small and hard to see. Nevertheless, I plowed through, looking for some exciting wines such a Valtellina or Amarone or Prosecco sparklers. There were over 150 wines at the show. I looked around for some agents and spotted Lifford who was repping Fattoria Zerbina, a typically high scoring Emilia-Romagna wine. Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Vignaquerce 2002 ($25) was the best value. The Torre di Ceparano 2001 ($37) and the Ravenna IGT 2000 ($47, with 20% cabernet sauvignon) were round and smooth. The Pietramora Reserva ($68) was outstanding. From Lombardia, I enjoyed an Aldo Rainoldi Inferno 2002 ($25 from Wine Online) and the delightful Sfursat Ca’Rizzieri 2000 ($67), all made with nebbiolo grapes in a lighter, faster maturing style than is found in Barolo. From the Veneto, I sampled Beato Bartolomeo da Breganze (the full Dolce San Giorgio, the succulent Torcolato Breganze, the extra dry Prosecco Spumante) repped here by Vino Allegro. Cantina del Castello had a succulent Recioto di Soave Classico Bianco Cortepittorai 2002 (agent: Frati Estate Wines). Conati’s Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2000 impressed me (15.5% alcohol, hot finish, ready now) as did Roncolato Amarone 1998 (very woody). A pause: should I go to the COC Wine Auction? (as a donor I had tickets). It fitted nicely in between the three region show and the evening’s solo Veneto event. I passed it up. The Regione de Veneto sponsored a reception, another wine tasting, and food (buffet-style) of Veneto at Toula (Westin Harbour Castle). There were different wines than at the show, but no listing or catalogue. We were on our own. The buffet included many cheeses from the region, but again, no meats. My fave of the reception was the Traminer Aromatico 2004 Castello di Porcia, followed by any number of Prosecco that we tasted at the open bar (Montello e Colli Asolani Brut, etc.). As quality wine and food events, this day rated a 8.6 our of 10. SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 27, 2005 – Copping a ride to Brock this early AM to partake in the Larry Patterson Show aka 2005 Bordeaux – Ontario Challenge. Larry has always believed that good Ontario Meritage can’t be differentiated from Bordeaux; both are cool climate wines. He proved it once again. A major blind tasting of Ontario Cab Merlots and Classed Growth Bordeaux was held at Brock University. The 51 tasters included 8 members of the Wine Writers Circle of Canada, 20 members of the Wine Judges of Canada, 8 people from Ontario wineries (owner/winemaker etc), 12 students and professors from The Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University and 3 other experienced tasters (Larry, a wine steward, and Steve MacAdam). Results and an article are posted online at www.littlefatwino.com/scores.html (scroll down to Feb 27, 2005). The sixteen wines included Chateau Branaire Ducru 1999 ($67 and placing 6th), Chateau Camensac 2000 (7th), and Chateau Lynch-Moussas 1996 ($79 but 11th) Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal 1995 ($85 but 12th). The top wines were all from Ontario: Colio Estate CEV Carlo Negri Signature Cabernet Merlot 1999 (first! $50 in 2003), Thirty Bench Benchmark Blend 1998 (second and $35 in 2000), Stoney Ridge 1995 57% cabernet franc 43% merlot (third), Cave Springs Cabernet Merlot 1998 (4th), and Henry of Pelham Cabernet Merlot Unfiltered 1998 (5th). We all had fun tasting and assessing the wines. We were asked to identify which wines were Bordeaux, a spectacular disaster. There were four wines, nobody won. In fact, only seven tasters could finger two of the wines as being French, with 22 others identifying ONE wine. A light lunch was served. After lunch, Larry began a series of exercises, comparing additives in wine to wines without additives. We roamed through Tanin Plus, chocolate syrup, AR 2000, and Optired. We certainly need more of these, also some wines with faults. My thanks to the Wine Judges of Canada, CCOVI, Brock University, Sadie Darby, my ride Tom Ostler, and, of course, my Little Fat Wino Mister Larry Patterson, the heart and soul of Ontario wine. As a quality wine event, this one rates a 8.8 out of 10. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JANUARY 2005 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, Always available at www.deantudor.com SUNDAY, JANUARY 16, 2005 – Today was the Annual General Meeting for the Wine Writers Circle of Canada. We assembled at the LCBO Scrivener Square Event Room, for we were also doing a tasting afterwards. We voted to undertake several initiatives, such as constitutional reform, website access (www.winewriterscircle.ca), money matters, conflict of interest bylaws, and the re-accreditation process. After the AGM, we tasted some 27 or so Quebec wines, offered by Tony Aspler. Only a few stood out, principally the sweeties and Les Pervenches. L’Orpailleur from Dunham was, to my mind, the best overall winery in the tasting, with a pretty good Brut de Brut and basic Red and White. Then we went on to the Ontario trade component, which again only emphasized imports and BC wines (where are the Ontario VQA wines? They should be here….). Best of the white imports seemed to be Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (+578641, $10.95 general list), Twotone Farm Chardonnay 2002 Napa (Vintages in January), Yalumba Viognier 2002 Eden Valley (Vintages in the Spring, $19.95, good depth of fruit), Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc 2004 South Africa(+710015, $7.95 general list), Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2002 Sonoma (Vintages, $21.95), and Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Western Cape (+382713, $10.45 general list). Best of the reds were Mezzo Mondo Negroamaro (+588962, good value at $8.05), Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (+212993, $14.35 general list, delicious wood and fruit balance), Jose Maria Da Fonseca Periquita 2000 (+025262, $9.05 general list, good quality, nicely aged), Bellingham Shiraz 2003 (+554360, $12.80, great consistency from South Africa), and Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+337238 Vintages Essential, $17.95, 14.5% alcohol and dense). More wines will be tasted and commented on at our next meeting in February….stay tuned. TUESDAY, JANUARY 18, 2005 – The monthly meeting of the Ontario Wine Society was once again held at Tasting Rooms, with its exciting appetizers (shrimp, pork, chicken, spring roll, asparagus and prosciutto, smoked salmon). A full crowd necessitated some squeezing; there were 110 people plus Ed Finstein the speaker. Who would have thought so many people were interested in “Unusual Varietals of Ontario”. Maybe it was the weather, or maybe it was the fact that the event priced so low (only $30). Maybe it was just that there’s been nothing else around town since the last OWS meeting at the end of November! We ended up with 11 wines, 10 single blind tasted plus one reception wine. We knew the wines but we did not know the order. Ed, well-known for being a prolific speaker, led us through the tasting with his thoughts and palate. Here are some notes, based on the tasting order (the wines were not identified until later, but of course I scored 10/10): 1. Black Prince Auxerrois 2003: a puzzler to many, since it did not seem to have the character of auxerrois (found out, after it was identified). However, the nose was quite similar to number 6 below, and since Black Prince was the only winery with a white and a red wine, I took a chance and identified it correctly. Thick body, floral, some licorice. $15.95 at the winery in PEC. 2. Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2002 ($11.95): green tints, tart, refreshing on palate, good length for food, some elegance. I identified this one by default, after I had IDed the others. 3. Chateau des Charmes Savagnin 2000 ($14.95): excellent nose but low aromas, viscous body, hot finish. It had a somewhat nutty character, so I pegged it correctly for the 2000 savagnin (based on age). 4. Cave Springs Chardonnay Musque 2003 ($15.25): obvious muscat, orange blossom nose, some apples. No malolactic fermentation here. Great wine. 5. Mystery Wine ($5.95): apples, apples, and apples. Can this be an apple wine, say, Willow Springs Barrel Fermented Golden Delicious 1999? Sure thing. Easiest wine to ID all night… 6. Black Prince Chambourcin 2003 ($14.95): yeasty nose, pale colour obviously not zinfandel nor shiraz, smells like wine number one. Could this be PEC terroir??? 7. Reif Zinfandel 2001 ($33.90): easily the best wine of the night, full of gamey zinfandel character, dark, dense, black fruit, character, plummy, high alcohol. But alas no more: the vines died in a frost. Only half bottles were left, which added an “aging” complexity – the wine seemed older than it was, say a ten year old thick Zin. Easy to ID. 8. Reif Shiraz 2002 ($23.95): easy to ID since it was the only red wine still left. But it had low shiraz quality. It was dark, cherries, no age showing, a low nose but vanilla, viscous extract. But no shiraz/syrah hit I liked. 9. Willow Springs Geisenheim 2001 ($7.95): off-sweet medium consistency, honey, patio wine. 10. Pelee Island Scheurebe 2002 ($18): was sweet, dense and heavy, and easy to finger. Willow Springs also contributed a reception wine, their Gamay Noir 2001, a good wine to socialize with as we waited for the tables to be completely set up. Next up for the society is a sold out icewine weekend (nice to know that people are spending money again), a March 8 tasting of Cave Springs, an April 4 tasting of Ontario Wine Award contestants, and an annual dinner. Check out www.ontariowinesociety.com. As a quality wine event, this one rates an 8.2 out of 10. MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2005 – The Wine Writers Circle of Canada held its annual dinner at Biagio’s (St.Lawrence Hall), with variety being the order of the day. We tasted each other’s cellar goodies. About forty wines were sampled, ranging from sparklers through sippers, reds and whites, and sweeties. The quite-good dinner proceeded from appetizers through antipastos through pastas (and risottos), mixed grilled seafood, veal and lamb medallions, a variety of cheese baskets, an equal variety of desserts (cannoli, biscuits, cookies). We all seemed to have hollow legs…Here are some of the wines we tasted (the current vintages were from importers): Thirteenth Street Funk Rosé 2002 (sparkling) Crossing Vineyards Chardonnay 2002 (Pennsylvania!) Boira Pinot Grigio 2003 Domaine Sequinot Bordet Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2002 Masi Soave 2003 St. Hallett Poacher's Blend White 2003 Twotone Chardonnay 2002 Napa Wolf Blass Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2003 KWV Chardonnay 2003 Wolf Blass Riesling 2003 Gisselbrecht Pinot Gris 2002 Chateau Carbonnieux 1990 Uitytk Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 1999 Vergelegen 2000 Cline Ancient Vines Carignan 2001 Quinta do Cotto 2001 Clay Station Petite Syrah 2001 Dom. Barrai Faugeres 1998 Santa Rita Rosé 2003 Dievole Dievolino Sangiovese 2003 Bodegas Palacio Vina Portil 2003 Alaiara 2000 Chile Chateau Canteloup Cotes de Blaye 2002 Blewitt Spring Shiraz 1999 Pillitteri Riesling Icewine 1998 Chateau d'Arche 1975 Chateau Ste. Michelle Late Harvest Semillon 1992 Rochefort Coteaux du Layon 1979 (corked) San Giorgio Dolce Pillitteri Forte THURSDAY, JANUARY 27, 2005 – Today was choice day: fresh wines at Ontario Cuvee tasting in Niagara, or twenty-four vintages of Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon spanning fifty years. I chose the Oz tasting because it was in town, and because I’ll taste Cuvee wines next month. An easy choice. About forty writers and sommeliers came mid-day to the InterContinental Toronto Centre (Front Street). Wynns Chief Winemaker (since 1998) Sue Hodder and Wynns Wine Educator Matthew Lane led us through the selection of wines. We tasted one flight through 1973, and then took a break while the other two flights were poured. Cheeses were available, as well as some currently available wines to sample (Riesling via screwcap, Chardonnay, Shiraz, some blends, etc.). But my palate was focused on the cabernet vertical, not the horizontal range. It was a bit off-putting to discover that the cheeses were rock hard and cold; this spoiled their appreciation with some wine. Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced in 1954. At the time, it had a white label. Today, the Estate is the Coonawarra’s single largest land owner with 70% of the terra rossa area. And it showed in the longevity of the wines. Most of the vineyards used in the modern production are forty years old by now. The currently available vintage in Ontario is the 2001, $19.95 (+502039 General, $19.95), still tightly knit. It was aged in a combination of new and old American and French oak for 14 months. The nose has been described as Bordeaux in shape, with cassis and mocha, leafiness, mint, and some underbrush. Fruit, tannin, and wood tones seem all in balance on the palate, but it does need some cellaring time. In our tasting today, some of the wines came from magnums, others had been re-corked, and there were the inevitable bottle variations over time. Occasionally, some taster on one side of the room did not seem to taste the same wine as me. But then, that’s up to different palates and different bottles. The 1954 was intense, but I needed to taste two samples to get a fix: it varied wildly. Everything was dried, but not faded (that came later). Dried cherries, mineral notes, shorter finish. The 1957 was a favourite of mine, with its full character. The 1965 was spectacular for me, full, round and generous, very Bordeaux-like. Its equal was the 1966, a bit softer and with more fruit, backbone tannins having been resolved. The 1976 showed more cedar and cigars, a bit firmer and fuller in the finish. The dense 1980 had olives. The 1982 was dynamic: rich, long finish, broad fruit on the mid-palate. Concentrated and ripe beyond belief at this stage. The 1991 showed a good tannic quality, with MVC of cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux. The 1996 was leafy and taut; the 1998 was juicy and mouth filling, good finish. The 2000 was closed, and opened later. The 2002 (not here yet) was smooth, juicy, lush, long length. The 2004 was out of sorts, but then I found out it was barrel sample. Apparently, there is only one bottle left for each of 1963 and 1964 at the Estate’s cellars, and about four cases for each of the other years. That makes it extremely difficult to replicate this tasting. Kudos to Southcorp and Wynns for putting on the event. As a quality wine event, this one rates a definite 9 out of 10 (shame about the cheese). RECENT PRODUCT SAMPLINGS Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2000 St.David’s Bench VQA Niagara (+430991, $19.95 Vintages): 14% alcohol and fruit-driven, slightly succulent, BF and aged sur lie for a year in new French oak. Butter and tropical fruits. Gold at Ontario Wine Awards 2003. Dopff Au Moulin Riesling 2003 Alsace (+649772, $14.45 General): fruity. More so than expected, in the “new” style. Good accompaniment to oriental spicy dishes. Guy Saget Sauvignon 2003 Touraine (Loire) (+649822, $11.45 General): crisp, appley style, slightly herbaceous, 12.5% alcohol. Pisse-Dru Beaujolais Blanc 2003 (+276865, $11.95 General): a companion to the red, made from chardonnay grapes (it could also have been legally labeled a St.Veran or a Macon) – vaguely floral, with some stone-fruit character, lightish, best with parties or appetizers. Could do well in the marketplace, with its “Beaujolais” name. Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2002 Pays d’Oc (+592519, $13.45): 13% alcohol, and hard to beat the detailed elegance at this price level, tasting midway between Euro and New World style. Swings both as food and sipper. Hillebrand Showcase Riesling Icewine 2003 (+980441, $60): pears and pineapple dominate, with a long lingering finish. Capable of aging 10 more years. Guy Saget Cabernet Franc 2002 Touraine (Loire) (+649814, $11.45): straight ahead medium franc leafiness, goes with all kinds of food, especially cheeses. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 1999 Estate VQA Niagara (+277236, $18.95 Vintages Feb 19): 9. Feb 19: Cabernet Franc 1999 (Niagara; Chateau des Charmes): good franc detail (leafy, a bit green, and/or vegetal in the finest sense), red berries (strawbs and rasps), good tannic finish, needs time and food. Yellow Tail Merlot 2004 Australia (+625350, $11.45): ripe fruit, off- dry party thriller, selling well already. Sipper. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot 1999 Estate VQA Niagara (+222372, $18.95 Vintages): OWA Gold medalist in 2003. A Bordeaux blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 26% cabernet franc, 18% merlot. Aged one year in French oak. Dark cocoa, almost mocha, black fruit of cassis and black cherries. Bottle says it will age for 5 to 10 years. Colio Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Carlo Negri Signature CEV Lake Erie North Shore (winery, $49.95): pricey, so expect bigness. Right now it has a harder edge and more wood tones than many New World wines (vanilla, cloves) but with its red fruit that should smooth out over the years. Lower yields, 22 months in new Euro oak. Deep. Rustenberg John X. Merriman 2001 Stellenbosch (+707323, $33 Winter Classics): 53% merlot, 42% cabernet sauvignon, balance franc, 14.5% alcohol, 20 months in wood: all of this reveals the cabernet family depth of the wine, at an excellent price point. Ready soon. Colio Meritage 2002 Carlo Negri Signature CEV Lake Erie North Shore (winery, $49.95): another super-premium wine, this time with black fruit and tobacco in a Bordeaux complexity. 34% merlot, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 33% cabernet franc. Euro style of leanness but softer than the cabernet above. Lower yields, 22 months in new Euro oak. 12.7% alcohol. Pasiteo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2000 Fassati Estate (+642009 Vintages, $26.95): Nobiles used to be considered Chianti wannabes, but no longer. New style dictates more a SuperTuscan type of wine, with lashings of New World leanings. Try chocolate cherries….13% alcohol. Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Franc 2001 Glenlake Vineyard (+994582, $40): aged in half US oak and half French oak, for one year. Full MF means a fruit-forward wine, red fruit but some dried fruit component too. Needs much more time to be fully enjoyed. Pisse-Dru Beaujolais 2003 (+2881, $12.95 General): appears to have been around forever (check the low CSPC number), now in 2003 vintage showing some ripe succulence. Another party wine. Even better is the Pisse-Dru Brouilly 2003 (+614024, $15.55 General) which, for two and a half dollars more, offers great value. Expect a better selection of gamay grapes, more depth, red fruit context, one percentage point higher in alcohol. Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Glenlake Vineyard (+994566, $40): aged a year, with full MF, in 60% French and 40% US oak. Powerful black fruit and black pepper, rich, loaded with mocha tones. Needs time. Feudi Monaci Negroamaro 2002 (+237438, $10.95 General): from Puglia, 13% alcohol, full of soft chocolate tones. North American styles anyone? Hillebrand Showcase Merlot 2001 Glenlake Vineyard (+994574, $40): also aged in half US and half French oak, for one year, with full MF. Typical plumminess, with smoke and tobacco, fruit dominating the palate. Needs time, and best with food. Robert’s Rock Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 South Africa (+523456, $8.95 General): hard to beat this value for a goodly hit of syrah, ending soft and pretty enough for party/patio. Hillebrand Showcase Pinot Noir 2002 Barrel Aged (+980201, $22): ripe, brimming with pinot flavours, one year on lees in older French oak. Full MF. Cherries, of course, followed by broad sweet oak tones. Can drink now. WINE TRADEWINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER, 2004 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2004 – Today was the day long 9th annual Italian Wine and Grappa Tasting (but I’ve never yet have tasted any grappa, due to palate fatigue). The venue was The Carlu; the sponsor was the Italian Trade Commission. The Toronto show is now part of a coast-to- coast tour by Italian producers, from Vancouver, Edmonton, and Montreal. The event, for the wine press, began at 10:30 AM with a blind wine tasting of sangiovese-based wines conducted by Vittorio Fiore, specialist in Italian viticulture and oenology. Nine wines were sampled and commented on. The range included DOC, DOCG, and IGT from Tuscany, Piedmont, Marche, and Umbria. This was followed by a buffet lunch and a wine preview, before the actual show opened at 1:30 PM. There were about 70 wineries showing their products, and I attempted to slurp my way through most of them (failing to complete the cycle, unfortunately). The catalog was in great shape: arranged alphabetically, with names and addresses of agents, websites, a listing of the wines with grape compositions, and page numbers. The numbers were useful for locating wines at particular tables. The same catalogue was used at all the shows: the major drawback, noted early on, was the confusing indication of which wines were available in which city. So the range ran from Ascheri (Piedmont) to Zonin (Veneto). Some of the wines I tasted – and enjoyed – included Ascheri’s Langhe DOC Montalupa 2001 Viognier (arriving here in June, 2005, at $29.95 est.: check with Prevedello & Mathews) and Zonin’s Sicilia IGT Deliella Feudo Principi di Butera 2001 Nero d’Avola. Barbi was one of the few Brunello producers here today – there would be a Brunello show next week. I liked their 1999 (fruity but still tight, $49.95 from Noble Estates). Batasiolo featured a Langhe 2002 (Majestic Wine Cellars, $17.40, very fruity and Italianate, needs food: a mix of dolcetto, barbera, nebbiolo); Bersano’s Barolo Nirvasco 1999 ($36.50, depth and tang to the finish, through Barrique); Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale 2001 ($45, mocha and dried fruit, through Prevedello & Mathews); Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d’Alba 2001 ($23.75 Vintages February 2005, good nebbiolo hit with soft fruit trailing); Farnese VDT Edizione 4 2002 Abruzzo (blend of montepulciano, primitive, sangiovese, negroamaro, malvasia near, $34.50 from Barrique, with full and developing North American chocolate tones); Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico 2001 (all aglianco, 100 year-old vines, $94 from Wine Lovers Agency, brilliant delicious fruit); Firriato from Sicily (repped by VinVino) seemed to have concentrated on North American styling, with off-dry, broad fruitiness, and wood tones in its Harmonium 2001 ($45.95, all nero d’avola) and Santagostino Baglio Soria 2002 ($27.65, half syrah in Oz shiraz style) and Camelot 2001 (a 60/40 Cab-Merlot blend in international appeal, $54.95); Castello di Fonterutoli’s equally fruit-forward wines such as Poggio all Badiola 2002 ($17.95) or Serrata di Belguardo 2002 ($19.95, coming to Vintages March 2005) or Poggio Bronzone Morellino di Scansano 2002 ($34) – repped by Philippe Dandurand; Masottina’s Colli di Conegliano Montesco 1998 (Veneto, $53, from TWC Imports: good broad tones but with a tannic finish, needs more time); Castello di Monsanto’s Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 ($29.95, from Prevedello & Mathews, showing lots of fruit and a terrific mouthfeel); Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone 2001 ($35, coming next year, from Brunello Imports: fruit driven, long finish); Rocca delle Macie’s fruit-driven wines included its Ser Gioveto 1999 (all sangiovese, $48.95 through Noble Estates: some additional mocha tones) and Fizzano 2000 (a chianti classico riserva, $39.95, off-dry finish) and the more affordable Rubizzo 2003 ($14.95: bright, off-dry); Michele Satta, repped by Halpern, featured a good blend with Boligheri Rosso 2002 (one-third each cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese, $26) and the even better Bolgheri Rosso Piastraia 2001 (one-quarter syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and sangiovese, $49) and the ultimate Bolgheri Rosso Superiore I Castagni 2001 (40% syrah, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 20% teroldego, 18 months in Alliers oak, $75); Villa Vignamaggio (from H.H.D. Imports) Chianti Classico Seicento 2001 (80% sangiovese, rest equally cabernet sauvignon and merlot, $34.95: definitely off-dry on the palate) and the impressive Obsession IGT 2000 (50% merlot, 30% syrah, 20% cabernet, $49). As a quality wine and food event, this one rates a 9.3. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 – Maxxium’s annual President’s Tasting, now a portfolio tasting, was preceded by a Flagship Reds Seminar at the Vaughan Estate. Ten wines were discussed in front of forty attendees, mostly invited licensees. What makes these seminars informative is that the winery owner or winemaker or export director is usually present for the talks. Here are some notes: -Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere 2003 Colchagua Valley “Organic”: $12.95, 13.5% alcohol, excellent value for the ripe nose, gamey finish, and brightness of the blend which is similar to cab-merlot. -Masi Serego Alighieri Valpolicella 2000: $29.95, lovely dried fruit nose, higher acid finish, 14% alcohol, good aging. -Collavini Merlot dal Pic 1999: $29, 13.5% alcohol, crisp, lean, somewhat Pomerolish. -Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage 2000: +570598, $54.95, two- thirds cabernet sauvignon, balance cab franc, merlot, petit verdot, red fruit tones and leafy, warm aromatic nose, lush on the palate, still developing, higher acid finish than expected, 13.5% alcohol. -Torres Mas La Plana 1998: +617456, $39.95, 14% alcohol, cabernet sauvignon from a single vineyard, deep dark but reticent nose, fully wooded, jammy, some olives, ready now for restaurants. -Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2001: $73.75, 14% alcohol, jammy aromatics, some anise, broad fruit on palate, heavyish on back palate, best to decant. -Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001 Napa Valley: +947341 Vintages 2005, $179, 14.5% alcohol, mostly To Kalon, mute nose, tight tannic shield, off-dry fruit on mid-palate, bitterish chocolate on finish. Opened up after I aerated it: coffee, black fruit, softer finish. -Luce 2000 De la Vite Tuscany: +710046, $99.95, 14.5% alcohol, from Frescobaldi and Mondavi partnership, Italian nose and palate, soft on the mid-palate, but tight finishing tannins. -Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia Le Dardi Rose 1999: +596890 Jan 2005 Vintages, $54.95, 13.5% alcohol, nebbiolo tangy nose, surprisingly light in colour and body. -Wolf Blass Platinum Label Shiraz 2001: +968123, $99.95, 14.5% alcohol, deep jammy nose, lots of wood tones, ripe and firm on palate. As a quality wine event, this one rates 9 out of 10. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 – McLean House was the venue for the latest President’s Tasting from Maxxium, always held on U.S. election night – just for that extra thrill. This event gets bigger and better each year; the invitations are heavily lusted for…The elegant surroundings are broken into food stands and wine stands, with about a dozen wines at each location. One of the favourites is the Patio: this is an enclosed space, fairly cool in the fall with a chance to decompress from the heat of the crowds within the main structure. Early on we sampled champagnes in the Patio (both Charles Heidsieck and Piper Heidsieck, with the latter’s Cuvee Rare being a personal favourite (+643734 Vintages, $124.95). The Piper Heidsieck Rose Sauvage will be out in time for Valentine’s Day (+680868 Vintages February, $59.95). After the champagne goes (and along with the seafood and oysters and frites), the ports come in with desserts at 7:15. Some LBVs and Vintage Ports were complemented by Tawnies such as the delightful Otima 10 Year Tawny (+566174 General List, $21.95) or the Tonel 12 Ten Year Tawny (private order). In the Mahogany Room, there was the dense and chunky Serego Alighieri Vaio Amarone 1998 from Masi (+998252, $95) and the light but ready Barbaresco Tenute Roncaglia 2000 from Poderi Colla (+715763 April 2005 Vintages, $49.95). I also had the opportunity to try Luce’s baby brother, Lucente 2001 de la Vite (+651034, $39.95). I felt the stunners of the room (where the roast beef aficionados hung out) were Le Volte 2002 (Vintages September 2005, $24.95) and Le Serre Nuove 2002 (+606194, $54.95) both from Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia – with their soft, fruit-forward but deep characters. The Conservatory featured the largest collection of wines to go with the buffet. I particularly enjoyed Johns Blend Margarete Shiraz 2001 Langhorne Creek McLaren Vale (+927657, $43.95) with its wood, the very good quality of Louis Latour’s Corton Charlemagne 2002 ($166.95) and Corton Grancey 1999 (+610576 Classics coming, $109.95), the fruity flavours of Geyser Peak Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (+716431, $55.95) or its off-dry Alexander Valley Cabernet ($21.95), the full, firm and juicy Chateau des Erles Fitou 2002 (J&F Lurton, Languedoc, +654590 Vintages March 2005, $49.95), the deeply complex Vina Caliterra Arboleda Chardonnay 2000 Chile (+606772 March 2005 Vintages, $16.95), the fruitiness of Cono Sur Vision Shiraz 2003 Chile (+590794 April 2005 Vintages, $17.95), the excellent tasting quality of the Tumarra Titan 2000 Bellevue Estate South Africa (Vintages April 2005 +922211, $16.95), and the uniqueness of Cathedral Cellars Cabernet 2000 (Vintages +328567, $16.95). The Staircase and the Fireplace were next to each other, with Mondavi at the first (a mini-vertical of his Cabernet Sauvignons 1995, 1996, and 1997, all available by consignment) and Wolf Blass at the latter (a variety of Gold, Platinum and Black labels, all now at Vintages). I skipped the Library, but noted that The Macallan was there (with six types), Highland Park, Remy Martin, Jim Beam, and Cruzan rums. As a quality wine and food event, this one is hard to beat, despite the crowds. Give it 9.7 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2004 – Vintage Trade held a portfolio tasting at Harbour Sixty and the Oakville Athletic Club; the same wines were in both locations. They have just launched a web site www.vintagetrade.ca where you can rummage through their catalogue, select the wines you want, print out the order form, add credit card information, and fax it directly. It is, of course, completely safe and secure since none of your personal information is on the web. Thompson Vintage Trade currently represents 14 wineries, including such high enders as Rust en Vrede from South Africa or Picardy in Australia. Thirty wines were sampled, and I particularly enjoyed Rabl Optimum 2003 Austria ($22.95, from gruner veltliner) for its good grip; the bone dry and intense Vieil Armand Riesling 2003 ($18.95); the equally intense MillsReef Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003 from Hawke’s Bay ($22.95, screw cap); the Trinchero Family Selection Chardonnay 2002 ($20.95, woodsy, tropical fruit, even thick); the ripe fruit and spicy complexity of Vieil Armand Gewurztraminer 2002 ($20.95) without the bitter finish; the Picardy Shiraz 2001 Pemberton ($35.95, 14.5% alcohol, made in Rhone style, rich, my favourite wine of the tasting); Rust en Vrede Merlot 2002 Stellenbosch ($21.95, 14% alcohol, hot nose, rich and ripe, some tang to the finish, great value at this price level, restaurant-ready); the equally rich and awesome Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Stellenbosch ($28.95, 14% alcohol); and the Hamelin Bay Rampant Red 2002 Margaret River ($22.95, 14% alcohol, cabernet, merlot, shiraz) with its gobs of black fruit, and wood and mocha, fullish like a good Bordeaux. As a wine event, this one rates 8.6 out of 10. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2004 – The wine parade continues with an “omnium gatherum” Discover Australia show at the Australian Trade Commission itself. This is the second time they have featured Australian food, wines, homewares, bodycare products, hardware, pet products, and so forth, from about 40 Australian producers. The wineries were looking for agents: Channybearup, Summerfield, Watson Estate, Curnow Family, Random Valley Organic Wines, Donnelly River, Tallarook, Wedgetail Estate. Red wines dominated, mostly cabernets and shirazes. Prices were vague (not good marketing, chaps). I enjoyed the Fly Brook Pinot Noir (full and lush), Pappy’s Paddock Shiraz, Donnelly River’s Cabernet Sauvignon, and Watson Family’s Chardonnay. One winery’s products arrived just as I was leaving, so I was unable to taste. The food products were pretty good, especially the sweets. As a wine event, this one squeaks by at 7.7 out of 10. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2004 – The Royal Winter Fair was in town (I had attended a preview the previous Thursday), and today it was a “Royal Invitation” to a media luncheon at the Vintner’s Terrace Restaurant in the Royal Vineyard. Rose Reisman (who was also demonstrating in the cooking school setup) is a caterer, and she prepared the appetizer of spinach salad with candied pecans, pears and brie cheese. It was accompanied by Pelee Island Pinot Gris Reserve Late Harvest 2002 ($15, at the winery). The terrific herb-infused leg of lamb with a ragout of lentils came from Chef Herbert Barnsteiner of the Corner House Restaurant, and the Pelee Island Reserve Pinot Noir 2002 ($13.95 General List) was a neat complement. Desert was prepared by Joel Rousell and David Burnett co-hosts of the Food Network’s “Man Made Food” show: poached pear in red wine with praline ice cream, shortbread, and orange crème anglaise. It was accompanied by Pelee Island Schreube Late Harvest, with its delicious orange-muscat like finish. Andrew von Teichmann from the winery spoke to the wines and to the food matches. All the chefs were on hand to speak about their food. Recipes were handed out, and some of the foods were to be demonstrated at the cooking stage. It was a good introduction to the Vineyard (last year’s plastic grapes have been replaced by young vines). There is a wine tasting area, plus an on-site LCBO store for purchases. The 2003 food areas, such as candies and sausages, were removed from this year’s version, allowing for space for grape education at the Wine Education Centre. It’s a good mixture of food and wine, and hopefully there will be more wineries represented next year. As a quality wine and food event, this one (despite the “attention shoppers” announcements) rates 8.5 out of 10. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2004 – Today the “Wines of South Africa” trade show rolled into town, to Hart House at the University of Toronto, beginning at 11:30 AM with a seminar entitled “Aspect to Terroir”. Bruce Jack of Flagstone Winery led us through a detailed discussion on South Africa’s unique biodiversity. Following the tasting, the wines were paired with a small sample of food, tapas style, complementing the wines. Eleven wines were discussed, mostly from Flagstone, which is all gravity flow. The media had been under the impression that the seminar would be more diverse in its approach to the many wineries of South Africa. Tasted were Graham Beck Brut, Flagstone Riesling 2004, Vinum Chenin Blanc, Jordan Chardonnay 2003 (very Burgundian), The Berrio Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (good balance of muted herbs, body, finish, zest), Jack and Knox Green on Green Semillon 2003 (full, thick and fruity with a citric finish), Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2002 (elegant Burgundian style), Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2001 (plumy, stewed nose, off-dry on full palate, long finish), Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (screw cap, clean, fruity, soft tannins, long on finish, sip), and Flagstone Outsider Shiraz 2002 (light oak on nose, yummy juice-fruit on palate, good solid finish, sip). Most of the wines were best with food, such as the selection of shrimp, vegetables, grilled tomatoes, beef, sausage, mushroom turnovers would suggest. The three hours allocated to the tasting was shorter than expected, given that we ran over with the seminar and that the catalogue was poorly arranged. It made no sense: it was not in winery order, it was not in table order, it was not in paginated order (there were no page numbers). Agents had to tell me that they were, for example, two pages ahead of the end (that would be Hamilton Russell). Or, five pages from the centre left (that would be La Motte). But not every agent was that swift…At any rate, I quickly gave up on the catalogue and just basked the agent what he had. Thankfully, many of them also had price lists, which I would have asked for anyway. As with any other show, I did not – could not – taste all of the wines within the short time constraints. I enjoyed the wines of Louisvale (repped by Lamprecht): the woody Chardonnay Reserve 2003 ($17.50) and the fruit-filled Dominique 2000 (cab-merlot blend, $27). Linton Park (also repped by Lamprecht) had their Merlot 2001 (another full, ripe and juicy effort) and their Shiraz 2001 ($19, very fruity in a full-style). Franschhoek Vineyards (agent: Hobbs & Co.) had an Anvil Red 2003 ($13.35, 80 % merlot, balance pinotage) and Merlot 2003 ($15.95, firm and woody). Graceland (agent; Small Winemakers) had its Merlot 2003 ($23, firm and food wine) and Shiraz (like smooth chocolate). Middelvlei Wine Estate (agent: Lamprecht) showed their bargain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($16.50, juicy and developing well). Warwick (agent: Hobbs) had its Bordeaux blend, Trilogy 2001 ($31.30, very Euro-style). La Motte (agent: Lifford) had a woody Chardonnay 2002 ($17, 14.5% alcohol), a gutsy Shiraz 2002 ($22.50) and a Millennium 2001 ($22.50, Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, franc, and merlot, but an off-dry finish). Eikendal (agent: Lamprecht) had a fruity Sauvignon Blanc 2004 ($17) and a Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($22.50, with depth). L’Ormarins (agent: Lifford) showed their Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($20, off-dry and ready) and their Bordeaux blend Optima 2002 ($18.95). Nederburg (agent: Mark Anthony) had a chocolaty Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($12.45). Delheim (agent: Wineworld) came up with their off-dry Gewurztraminer 2004 ($16.50) and their French-styled Shiraz 2002 ($18.95). Hidden Valley (agent: Lifford) had a Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($30) that was a keeper, still holding tannins. Ken Forrester (agent: Wineworld) showed a Shiraz 2001 that was brimming with flavours ($20.90). Boekenhoutskloof (agent: RKW) had Porcupine Ridge Syrah (Vintages Jan 2005, $14.95, Euro-style firmness) and Chocolate Block, a soft and supple fruity blend ($39). Dornier Wines (agent: MCO) had a Cabernet Merlot 2002 ($25.95) blend that was full, fruity, firm and with good length from its 18 months in French oak. The white Dornier White Donatus 2003 ($32 Vintages February 2005) was a clever blend of chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, and semillon: fragrant and evolving. Hartenberg (agent: Hobbs) developed an off-dry Merlot 2001 ($25.95). Landskroon (agent: Hobbs) showed its Paul de Villiers Shiraz 2001 ($19.65, excellent blend of wood and fruit) and its Paul de Villiers Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($20.35, good grip). Mischa Estate (agent: MCO) had a soft chocolate in style Shiraz 2002 ($24). One of the highlights of the show was working my way through elements of Bottled Concepts agency. Dawn Wasylechko (dawnw@canada.com) is specializing in South African boutique wines. She wines from Clovelly, High Constantia, Janeza, Manley, Stony Brook, and Theuniskraal. Most were affordable, such as the Clovelly Triangle Cab/Cinsault/Shiraz 2003 ($20.30) a Rhonish blend. Or the leafy High Constantia Cabernet Franc 2001 ($28.40) or the Sebastiaan 2001 red blend ($34). The Janeza Tresuva Blend Cab/Merlot/Shiraz 2002 ($30.60) is another good example of lushness (80% cabernet, rest split). Manley Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($16.30) is another entry in a hot market. Stony Brook Shiraz 2002 ($25.65) is deep, dark and delicious. As a quality wine and food event, taking into account the seminar and the catalogue, this gets 7.9 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 10, 2004 – Sopexa helped put together a Saint- Emilion Pomerol Fronsac tasting show in the Round Room at The Carlu. It was a trade afternoon with a dinner that night for consumers to taste a few of the wines. Unfortunately, I was not invited to the lunch which featured 24 other wines not in the trade catalogue. Still, there were plenty of wines, with 25 tables, and a pile of French-styled pates, meats, cheeses, nuts, breads and fruit. The 138 page catalogue was excellent, a whole book in itself, with superb details on the region, and plenty of data about each wine: addresses, people, websites, vineyard descriptions, vinification methods, production. But no prices, such as FOB. Fewer than 20 agents were listed. Indeed, most of the labels were looking for agents, and many turned up as well as the usual sommeliers, restaurateurs, trade personnel, and press. I started at the top, and worked my way down, fearing that I would not have time to taste all that I wanted to. Later, I found out that there were limited numbers of the expensive bottles. This was largely a St. Emilion tasting; there were few Pomerols. And these latter were on one table, unattended. No wonder they ran out. From the Pomerols, I enjoyed the Certain de May 1999, the Chateau La Rose Figeac 1999, Chateau Montviel 1999, Chateau La Croix de Gay 2001 (with its larger merlot component), the good mouthfeel of the Clos Rene 2001 (10% malbec). To one side, there were some Lalandes de Pomerol, such as Chateau de Bel Air 1999 and Chateau La Croix Des Moines. Then on to the St.Emilion Crus before the satellites. There were, according to the catalogue, two 1er Grand Cru Classes: Chateau Belair 2001 and Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot 1999, the first was smooth and fruity while the second showed more flavours with its age. Dionysus repped Chateau du Val D’Or 1999, a Grand Cru, with a good finish. Lacey had Chateau Mangot 1999 Grand Cru, Trilogy had Chateau Franc Mayne 1999 Grand Cru Classe, a wine I cut my palate on back in the 1960s (alas, the 2000 now sells for $74.95 through the Classic Catalogue). Trilogy also had Les Cedres Franc Mayne 2001 GC ( a second wine for Franc Mayne) and Chateau Marquey 2001 GC ($43). Hobbs had Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle 2001 GCC, while Pernod Ricard Canada had Chateau Laroque 1999 GCC. Woodman Wines had Galus 2000 GC, as well as Chateau Beau Rivalon 2002 GC (fruit forward), and Aurelius 200 GC (definite New World style) plus Cotes Rocheuses 2001 GC and Pagus Novertas 2001 GC. The Case for Wine brought Clos Saint-Julien 2001 and 2002 GC (a Saint-Julien in St.Emilion?), both years fruit forward and approachable, as well as Chateau Petit Gravet Aine 2002 GC and Chateau Gaillard 2001 and 2002 GC. Colio Estate Wines showed a mini-vertical of Chateau La Tour du Pin Figeac 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002 GCC, all plumy, and they can get back to 1993. The 1999 is $55, one of the few prices I could nail down. There were about 150 wines, including different vintages of the same winery. It was a good tasting, concentrating on a small number of years, grape varieties, and regions. As a major wine and food event, given the quality of the wines, this is 9.3 out of 10. THURSDAY, NOVEMEBER 11, 2004 – “Benvenuto Brunello” was the name of the marketing tactic by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino as it debuted the 2000 vintage at press and trade tastings in New York and Toronto, the only stops in North America prior to the official release in Spring, 2005. In Toronto, it happened at The Carlu, with over 40 producers. Some producers also brought along 1999, some earlier vintages, some riserva bottlings, plus the bread and butter Rosso di Montalcino from 2002 and 2003, and even some SuperTuscans and Vin Santos. Current rules specify a minimum of two years in barrel for the sangiovese grapes, plus two years in bottle before release. The consortium, founded in 1967, represents 220 of the 230 producers in the region. Italian food service was mainly for antipasti, as a light accompaniment to the wines. In Canada, the event was handled by V.V. Events & Communications. There was a first-rate catalogue, with two pages for each producer, names and addresses, and a reproduction of the label. The years and prices were missing, and when I asked, prices were terribly vague. There were only about 10 agents in Ontario. I decided to taste the Brunellos and Riservas first, saving the Rossos for later – if I had both time and palate left. Many of the Brunellos are ready sooner rather than later; there have been changes in the production techniques to ensure that the hardness does not last much beyond release date. I do have to report that some wineries objected to this “starting at the top and working down”. So I played along, getting a sample of something, and then walking to a dump before continuing on with the next level upwards. Because of the language difficulty, they didn’t ask me how I liked the wine. They just wanted to pour Rosso first, followed by 2000 Brunello, 1999 Brunello, then back to 2000 Riserva and 1999 Riserva. It was the only way… Banfi showed its Brunello 2000(Select, $54.95 as a Vintages Essentials, later on release, with forward fruit and a North American taste style. Their Poggio Alle Murra 1999 (better year, $75) and Excelsus 2000 (a Cab-Merlot SuperTuscan) showed great flavours on the palate. Canalicchio di Sopra’s Brunello 2000 showed good fruit; the 1999 was definitely cherries. Capanna’s Brunello Riserva 1999 was brilliant. Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello Riserva 1999 (about $100) was also spectacular, verging on a North American style as did their regular 2000 Brunello ($80, Diamond Estates). Castelgiocondo Brunello Riserva 1999 ($120) was fruity, another NA style. Il Poggione’s range, from Rosso 2003 upwards, was stylish and spectacular, probably the best range in the show, albeit tuned somewhat to a North American taste despite use of French oak. Lifford is the agent: Rosso is $24.50, San Leopoldo IGT 2001 is a SuperTuscan at $31.50, Brunello is $52.50, and Brunello Riserva is $69.95. La Lecciaia Brunello Riserva 1999 showed the tang of age, and the 1998 Riserva was even older. Le Chiuse Brunello 1999 had rich chocolate tones. Talenti (Lifford) Brunello 2000 showed bright chocolate in an NA style and approach. Tenuta Caparzo (Case for Wine) showed a rich house style throughout, beginning with its 1999. Silvio Nardi (Cipelli) had some tightness, but the Brunello 2000 Manuchiara was fragrant in the nose, definite NA style. It was a good tasting, concentrating on just the one grape variety and the one or two vintage years. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates 9 out of 10. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2004 -- This afternoon there was a trade tasting, mainly for agents and the wine media, sponsored by the Fenadegas group of Portuguese wine producers. It was in collaboration with ICEP – Portuguese Trade and Tourism Commission. It was also part of an initiative sponsored by the European Union (Demarcated Wine Regions of European Union). The show was held at the Ontario Club; almost seventy wines were shown, covering a range of regions and styles (vinho verde, Port, sparklers, regular red and white table wines, etc.). I did not taste everything, and prices were vague at best. For further details, contact william.delgado@icep.pt. I thought Caves Santa Maria was one of the better producers. Their regular Douro red (CSM 2002) was a knockout for under $15. But then it was done up in a North American palate- style, with fruit and shiraz butter cream. Their Reserva 2001 also showed the elegance of fruit-forward wood tones. The Encostas Corgo 2001 had good depth, as did the Touriga Franca 2000. Pegoes was another good producer. Their Fontanario de Pegoes (Palmela DOC) 2002 had eight months oaking, and showed wood and fruit on the nose. The Rovisco Pais 2001 had more body and more age. The Adega de Pegoes White Selected Harvest (Terras do Sado) 2003 is about one-third each chardonnay, pinot blanc, and arinto; it is a full-bodied wine with four months in oak, and it is developing well. Udaca (a Dao co-op) had a Touriga Nacional 1999 with wood, fruit and long length. There was also a Garrafeira 1996, which was still bright and youthful. Adega da Covilha showed its Colheita Socio 1999, nicely aged red with delicious melded flavours. The Colheita Socio Superior 2001 seemed to be better quality, with a longer length and 13.5% alcohol. Co-op Agric Beira Serra had a Vilas Francas 2003, with lovely wood and fruit tones, albeit in a North American “sipping” style. Despite problems over pricing and catalogue issues, this event rates 8.4 out of 10. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2004 – Usually the heavy crush of Fall activities in the wine trade in Toronto ends with Beaujolais Nouveau. But the third Thursday comes a bit early this year, and so we get stacked lunches, dinners, agent tastings, and trade shows on one day. Today was a killer, with events all over town. I could only handle three. The first was a new initiative from the EU, something called European Gourmet Products. Regional specialties of France, Italy, Portugal, and Spain were at The Distillery District (Fermenting Cellar, the event centre). In 2005, the Project will move to other cities, and then probably return to Toronto in 2006. Paula Oreskovich was the media contact; Sandy Bavington was the trade contact (direct enquires to sandy@forfrontcom.com). Almost 40 producers were looking for importers to handle their lines. Thus, we were exposed to a wide variety of European cheeses, meat products, olives, olive oils, pastas, vegetables (packaged) and desserts. The walk-around sampling was complemented by a range of walk-around appetizers made with the foods. There was also a seminar on the labeling protection system which guarantees origin. I’m not sure why wine was included, since there are so many venues in Toronto at which wine can be exposed. There were only five wineries, with a couple of wines apiece: one from Portugal (Herdade do Esporao) and four from Spain (Chivite, Vina Extremena, Vinas de Alange, and Inurrieta). All of the wineries are already represented in Ontario, so they weren’t looking for agents. (In fact 9 of the food producers here today are already in Canada). The hands down wine winner (once price and availability were factored in) was the Chivite Navarra Reserva 1999, only $14.95 at Vintages. As a trade event, the affair rates 8.9 out of 10. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2004 – There was something called “Professional Beaujolais Tasting featuring the 12 Beaujolais Appellations” at the Delta Chelsea Inn, mid-day, for the trade and the press. It was under the patronage of the Union Professionnelle des Vins du Beaujolais and the French Economic and Trade Commission. In the evening there was to be another tasting and a dinner for the consuming public. I arrived to find the room full of bottles, and I immediately thought of last year – which I enjoyed so much – where there were scores of wine. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that the mass of bottles on each table were actually just one or two brands. Except for one table (Allegro), the show consisted of a few wines and only four agents. Charton Hobbs had a Bouchard Aine Beaujolais Superieur 2003 ($11.55); their Beaujolais Villages was listed but not here yet. Authentic, an associate of Charton Hobbs, had a Mommessin Beaujolais Villages Reserve 2002 ($12.95). Cippelli had a Dom. Des Averlys Beaujolais Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2002, a Dom. De la Milleranche Julienas 2003, a Patrick Thevenet Chenas 2002 (best of the Cipelli selections), and some whites (Beaujolais Blanc, St.Veran, Macon-Fuisse): prices and availability were vague. Allegro had the best selection, with six wines from Trenel, available by private order, ranging from $17 to $25 a bottle. There was a Trenel Beaujolais Villages 2003, Morgon “Cote de Py” 2003, Cote de Brouilly 2003, Julienas 2003, Moulin a Vent 2002 (my favourite of the show), and a Saint Amour 2003. Allegro also has available the white St. Veran 2002 ($22) from Trenel. The wines were complemented by an excellent selection of cheeses, pork products (hams, sausages, cold cuts), breads and fruits. As a quality wine event, the one rates 8.1 out of 10. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2004 – Now on to the third event of the day, a late showing at the monthly tasting held by the Small Winemakers Collection at their global corporate headquarters. Their intent is to show off wines newly arrived in Vintages or by consignment, usually about 16 – 20 a month. Here are some notes on the wines I enjoyed: -Domaine Cassagnoles 2003 Sauvignon (Gascony), consignment, $12.70: good sauvignon blanc intensity and price, higher finishing acid levels. Definitely food. -La Tunella 2002 Campo Marzio (Friuli), consignment, $27.70: something different, made from local varietals, complex and aromatic nose, always developing, best with food, 13.5% alcohol. An Italian Conundrum? Six bottle cases. -Mandolin 2001 Syrah (California), consignment, $14.95: rich and ripe for a restaurant program. -Terranoble 2000 Carmenere Reserva (Maule, Chile), consignment, $19.95: inky colour, rich and full aromas carry forward on the palate, but tannic finish may require food. 14% alcohol. -Rymill 2001 Shiraz (Coonawara), consignment, $26.30: minty, chocolate, depth, voluptuous, slightly off-dry finish. 14% alcohol. -La Tunella 2002 Merlot (Friuli), consignment, $19.95: full, rich, ripe in a North American styling. 13% alcohol. -Domaine Sarrazin 2002 Givry “Champs Lalot”, In Store Discovery, $37.95: smoky, tasty, good consistency for the region. -Pio Cesare 2000 Barbaresco, private order, $70: nebbiolo tones are coming around, could be ready soon. -Luigi Righetti 2000 Amarone Capitel de’Roari, consignment, $31.90: one of the last amarone bargains left in the world. How does he make such good and consistent wines at this price level? Fabulous value. 15% alcohol. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2004 – The Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada normally holds its monthly Sunday meetings at the Scrivener Square LCBO. But this month, we had to make room for their holiday projects. We accepted an invitation to tour the Fine Wine Reserve. Wine storage is useful. In Toronto, there is the Fine Wine Reserve at King and Spadina Streets (www.finewinereserve.com) run by Marc Russell marc@finewinereserve.com as a full-time venture. In addition to storage, he has some tasting facilities too (a 10-foot long monastery table made of 100- year-old hemlock boards, seating for 14 and a service kitchen that features microwave/convection oven, dishwasher, fridge, dishware for 25, and Spiegelau tasting glasses, decanters, etc.). It is secure and climate-controlled (13.5 degrees, 60% humidity), with space for 12,000 cases (5,000 square feet). The entranceway has pressurized rooms (with fresh air brought in, for an odour-free facility), and there are seven separate layers of security including thumbprints. There are no temperature fluctuations. Vapour barriers and insulation complete the picture. Insurance, which you’ll need to get on your own since everybody’s requirements are different, can be advantageously had through Chubb. Marc has room for both private cellaring and custodial cellaring. Access is 24/7. Gift certificates are available, such as for a year’s storage. Marc has a huge brochure with all FAQs explained. We tasted a variety of products submitted by agents, mostly General List but also Vintages. I enjoyed Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Marlborough ($15.40), Blackstone Winery Merlot 2002 California ($19.95), Spires Shiraz 2002 Barossa Valley ($16.10), Georges Duboeuf Sauvignon Blanc Pays d’Oc 2002 ($10.95), Stone Cellars Beringer Chardonnay 2002 ($14: one of the best whites of the day with its toasty, plump, opulent fruit forward flavours), Beringer Chardonnay Napa Valley 2001 ($28.05: better than the Stone Cellars, but much pricier). MONDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2004 – It had been three years since the Ontario Wine Society held a “New Kids on the Block” tasting, a tasting of new wineries in Ontario. And it appears to have been too long, since the Ontario wine trade has simply mushroomed over the past several years. Indeed, tonight’s tasting (held, as always, at Tasting Rooms) featured nine wineries, but only one wine from each. Probably a more representative tasting would have been to have one red and one white from each, but 18 wines is a bit much. The number of wineries could not be cut back to four or five, for that would be unfair to the industry. I guess the OWS will just have to do it again – but soon. This time the wineries came from Niagara, Lake Erie North Shore, and Prince Edward County. Wine educator Steve Thurlow led the tasting, and the restaurant provided its usual assortment of appetizers to accompany the wine (tempura shrimp, smoked salmon, smoked duck, smoked chicken, spiced pork, French brie). Reception wines came from By Chadsey’s Cairns in Prince Edward County (2003 Riesling and 2003 Gamay/Pinot Noir). Reps from the various wineries were in attendance to answer queries and to give background data. We did not taste the wines blind. Here are some tasting notes (availability is normally only at the winery): -Peninsula Ridge 2003 Inox Chardonnay, $24.95: stainless steel production, clear, green tinge and green tones, elegant, Chablis-style, good detail to the finish. -Niagara College 2003 Chardonnay, $19.95: woody nose, good heft to the oak tones. Vanilla and spices but not much butter or cream. Fruit shy, better with food. NCT also makes a French oaked Chardonnay and a US oaked Chardonnay, both $24.95. -Waupoos 2002 St.Laurent, $18.95: from Prince Edward County, unfiltered, showing some old, dried fruit in a slightly off-dry context. -Palatine Hills 2002 Merlot Reserve, $23: firm and hard merlot nose, some woody tones, Euro-sty6le of food wine, some tannins, good price for Ontario fruit at this level. -Huff 2003 South Bay Blend, $19.95: from Prince Edward County: green bean, some pickle, chocolate, a bit thin on palate, medium finish. Bottled two weeks ago, still in shock. -Erie Shore Vineyard 2002 Cabernet Franc, $14.95: from Lake Erie North Shore, leafy, dryish, pleasantly tart, food. -Angel’s Gate 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.95: classic style with broad sweetness on the nose and palate, engaging finish. My second best red. -Maleta 2001 Meritage, $29.95: leafy nose (more cabernet franc in the blend?), nicely knit, food. My best red. -Legends Estate 2002 Pinot Noir Reserve, $28: lightish pinot noir component, follows through to finish. The Ontario Wine Society has a January 18, 2005 meeting at Tasting Rooms (Unusual Grape Varieties, with wine writer Ed Finstein), a Feb 5/6 Icewine weekend, a March Vertical of Cave Spring Riesling, an April Ontario Wine Award tasting, a May annual dinner, a June tour of Lake Erie wineries…Full details on these (and memberships) are at www.ontariowinesociety.com. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2004 – Off to the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo 2004, Metro Convention Centre, South Building. I was granted a press pass, and accessed at 5 PM before the VIP crowd. I had already tried the California wines in October at the Press Conference. There were country pavilions, such as Chile (I already had their wines last month), New Zealand, California and New York. Since New York only exhibits at Ottawa and Toronto, I decided to try these. NY Spokesperson Robert Ketchin always puts on a good show, with nice wines to try, and an informative flyer with prices and availability. The Glenora Finger Lakes Riesling 2003 ($21.35) was off-dry and fruity, the Hazlitt Homestead Reserve Riesling 2002 was semi-dryish in finish ($23.95), the Hazlitt Gewurztraminer 2002 was also off-dry and showed good spicy character ($25), the Hermann J. Wiemer Chardonnay 1999 was opulent (I actually bought a bottle in Cooperstown, just drank it last summer in Toronto), the Corey Creek Chardonnay 2001 from Long Island was nicely oaked (Vintages $22.95), Castello de Borghese Merlot Long Island 2000 was older but aging well ($24.95), the Bedell Merlot 2000 Long Island showed US oak tones, with good depth levels and intensity ($23.95), the Fox Run Cabernet Franc 2001 was Bordeaux-like, leafiness gone. Robert also ran the New Zealand booth, across the aisle; he was busy. I moved on to Majestic Wine Cellars, and tried some of their General List products. The 3 Corners brands from Australia (Chardonnay 2002 and Merlot 2003) were both fruity and quaffable ($10.25 each). The Pionero Morande Chardonnay 2001 was a bit saucy for $7.95, while the Nerello Del Bastardo (a Tuscany VDT) had off-dry fruits, competing with syrah as a sipper ($13.25). Around the corner was “MCO…interesting Wines & Spirits”. I had Le Primitif 2001 Gigondas, hand-picked and fresh, no oak, plummy from Grenache, good length, no filtering, gravity racking ($49.95 Vintages); Cote Rotie La Sarrasine 2001 from Bonserine, with heavy oak smells, young, tannic, needs time ($57 Classics); Les Eygats 2001 Cornas from Courbis was also tight and dense, will shed ($47 Classics); Cantaburros Crianza 1999 Ribera del Duero showed depth in its woodiness, best with food ($30 Vintages); Allende 2000 Rioja is tempranillo, light plums and leather, in French oak ($24.95 Vintages); Deduit des Chasses Grande Reserve 1999 Gigondas was a veritable bargain, with its grenache nose and taste, cedar and plums ($23.95 Vintages). I could only spend a few hours at the show. The rest of the events on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday were extremely useful tutored tastings and cooking demonstrations, plus an onsite LCBO store. Well- worth a visit. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2004 – VQA Ontario held a sub-appellation project briefing session for wine writers, beginning at noon, at Tasting Rooms. The session was an update on the status of the process for establishing sub-appellations in the Niagara Peninsula. Laurie Macdonald, Executive Director of VQAO, hosted the session. Dr. Tony Shaw, from the Geography Department at Brock, had undertaken the analysis of Niagara terroir and came up with 11 different areas. The project officially began in 2002, although there has always been talk of separating the area into such units as Bench or Lakeshore or Niagara-on-the-Lake. There are 12 million vines in the area, and about 18,000 acres of grapevines. There is pretty well agreement on the 11 sub-appellations, as mapped. There is still some macro dispute (do we really need this breakdown? isn’t it just a marketing ploy? won’t prices rise? Will Pelee Island, Lake Erie and Price Edward County be next? Will consumers be confused?) and some micro dispute (what are these areas to be named? First Nation names? Local names?) Wine writers also persisted in asking questions about “Replacement Brands” and VQA practices in general, at times adversarial. If anything, it showed that WWCC and other writers and VQAO needed to get together more often, and include the Wine Council of Ontario too. Lunch was a combination salad-soup-stew, followed by an apple dessert. We were also served a 1999 Tresette from Willow Heights and Chardonnay from Malivoire. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER 2004 ======================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com MONDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2004 – Pernod-Ricard Canada (905-712-0675) brought us Robert Skalli this morning, at the LCBO Scrivener Square. He was here for the official press launch of Robert Skalli wines in Ontario. He presented his wines in person and explained the short- and medium-term goals of the Skalli Family Wines Group for the Ontario market. Skalli produces the entry level Fortant de France wines, and the Robert Skalli label itself is a mid-range, currently positioned at about $13.45. The Merlot has been available for some time, and it is now joined by the Chardonnay. Soon to come will be the Syrah and perhaps the Cabernet Sauvignon. Both series of wines come from Languedoc region. We also tasted a range of wines, from Napa’s St.Supery to Rhone’s Maison Bouachon. Philippe Giraudon, Chairman of Skalli, led the tasting, talking about the company history, including looking at properties in Spain and perhaps Chile. The presentation concluded with a selection of terrific appetizers, designed to show off the wines. Here are some notes: -Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2002, +592519, $13.45 General List: very clean with an off-dry nose, some caramel on warming, European palate, soft sipper with some cloves on finish. -Maison Bouachon Cote du Rhone Les Rabassieres Blanc 2003 (the 2002 was $12.95 at Vintages): a first course wine, palate refresher, lemonish nose, citric palate with fruit on end, modest finish but best with food. -St.Supery Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Napa ($24.95 Vintages): soft, engaging nose, California style with broad fruit and few herbs and veggies, full body. -Esprit du Silene 2000, $18.95 Vintages: a second wine from the Maison Bouachon Chateauneuf-du-Pape properties. Rustic, hot nose, bags of extract and tannins, tight taut finish, needing time. -Robert Skalli Merlot 2002, +571042, $13.45 General List: mute nose, took awhile to open up, soft palate. More a sipper but with some length to the finish. Not an aggressive merlot. -Robert Skalli Syrah 2001, not yet available, but could be priced at $13.45: good colour and mature nose, palate plummy but a modest finish, certainly not “shiraz”. -St.Supery Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Napa (the 2000 is $34.95 in Vintages): rich, ripe, California cabbie nose, lots of wood on nose, full palate, long tannic length needs to be resolved. As a quality wine event, this one rates 8.8 out of 10. MONDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2004 – The annual visit of the Sonoma Wine Affair, which comes to Toronto, Edmonton and Vancouver, was preceded by an annual trade seminar. Each year there is a different theme: this year it was aromatic whites (non-chardonnay). A large group of sommeliers and wine writers assembled in the Glass Room at the ROM to hear and sample a presentation of some eight wines. Either the winemaker or the local agent spoke to the wines, most not available in the Ontario market. There were some moments of confusion when certain wines did not turn up at all, replacements were noted but in the wrong order on the tasting sheet and on the placement sheet. I had to crosscheck with two other people at my table, but all three of us finally got it right. I noted other confusion about the room. You cannot tell the players without a number. Here were some of my favourites: the rich full Gallo Pinot Gris from MacMurray Ranch was in Alsatian style (and Alsatian price at $34.95); Kenwood’s Valley of the Moon 2001 Pinot Blanc had a nice undertone of wood characteristics; La Crema 2003 Viognier had a great finish; the Wattle Creek Alexander Valley Viognier 2003 was ripe, rich, with six months of French oak showing ($35 at Vintages); Arrowood Viognier 2003 Saralee’s Vineyard ($49.95, coming Dec. 4 to Vintages) was my top pick here, extremely perfumed, good finishing acid and depth, slight bitterness to finish, but overall good mouthfeel (a whopping 15.6% alcohol) and plenty of plush-lush fruit. As a quality wine event, with the tasting sheets, this one rates 7.8 out of 10. MONDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2004 – The Sonoma Wine Affair appeared at the ROM’s Canada Room, the same location as the Australian trade show last month. The major differences, of course, were fewer wines and fewer trade people. The noise level was manageable, and I pretty well got around to trying most of what I wanted. Many wines had not arrived, or came during the show, and there were plenty of wines not listed in the catalogue, so I had to write in many entries. I aimed for the Chardonnays: 29 were listed in the Toronto show. It only seemed fair since I had tasted most of all the Chardonnays at the Oz show. Unlike Oz, I found the range of chardonnays here to be a bit more restricted: soft oak to hard toasty oak, with few lemons and apples. I enjoyed the Alderbrook Chardonnay 2001 for its style (Prevedello & Mathews); the Alexander Valley Chardonnay 2003 (good acid, food wine, EPNA); Arrowood Chardonnay 2002 was the standout white of the show (Gibson); Benziger Family Chardonnay 2002 (polished, elegant, long finish, Lifford); DeLoach Chardonnay 2001 Russian River showed flair; Kenwood Chardonnay Yulupa 2002 (fully-fragrant, off-dry, Rogers); La Crema Chardonnay 2003 (firm, almost Euro style), Landmark Chardonnay, both the Overlook and the Damaris labels (succulence, Lorac); Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill 2002 (toasty, Mark Anthony); St.Francis Chardonnay 2002 (elegant, good edge to the finish, Rogers); and Schug Carneros Chardonnay 2003 (great quality and finish, Lifford). Red wines that appealed to me included Alexander Valley’s Cyrus 2000 (60 cabernet sauvignon, 34 merlot, 6 petit verdot, slightly of-dry on palate, full of fruit, a few more years, $80 from EPNA); Arrowood Syrah 2000 Saralee’s Vineyard (lush, but needs time, Gibson); Clos du Bois Marlstone 1999 (nicely aged, voluptuous); Lancaster Estate Red Wine 1999 (14.2% alcohol, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 59% merlot, 1% franc, 22 months in French oak, tons of black fruit extract, one to lay down, $123 November Vintages, Ward); Rodney Strong Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (depth of fruit, blended with wood tones in balance, Mark Anthony); St.Francis Nun’s Canyon Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (elegant but rich, long finish, $51.30, Rogers); Schug Carneros Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (very successful, great bordeaux-like finish, my favourite red of the show, $32.50 Lifford); Stonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander valley 2001 (dense and tight). As a quality wine event, this one rates a definite 8.7 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2004 – After my morning palate exercises, I went to another heavy duty and heavy tannic wine tasting. This one was sponsored by John Szabo’s Centre for Vinous Affairs (CVA) at Crush, and an agent: Trade Winds Imports, which specializes only in Argentine wines on consignment. Rolando and Claudio Mayo started their agency last year, and participated in Sante in May 2004. Rolando spoke to the wines – we had 13 – after briefly describing the Argentine scene (over 200,000 hectares planted, Mendoza has 18% of the wines produced, 320 days of sunshine in Mendoza). The prominent red grape is Malbec (peppery, red fruit showing, sweet tannins) and the prominent white grape is Torrontes (with malvasia and muscat parentage, sweet on the nose, dry on the palate). Here are some notes, along with prices. Most of the wines shown here are made in small quantities. Call Trade Winds at 416-704-9852 or info@tradewinds-imports.com. -Vina Amalia Chardonnay 2002, $19.95: almonds, fruity, crisp, Euro style, new French oak for 3 months. -Vinas de Cuyum Mapu Torrontes 2002, $17.95: fresh and fruity, unoaked muscat dry, fragrant, slightly bitter finish. -Nino Franco Torrontes Oak 2002, $28.95: American oak, emphasis on coconut and tropicality, sipper. The 2003 is also available, at $24.95. -Vargas Arizu Tierras Altas Malbec 2002, $22.95: full-bodied, unoaked, fruity, good length. -Vargas Arizu Tierras Altas Malbec de Crianza 2001, $32.95: quite a step up in quality, 92-year-old vineyard, new French oak for one year, sweet vanilla, tannic finish. -Carmelo Patti Malbec 1999, $39.95: 14 months French oak, nicely aged, ripe, full, good structure. -Cuevas del Puma Red Limited Collection 2000, $39.95: cabernet sauvignon 40%, malbec 40%, merlot 20%, minty nose, wood on the nose, French oak for 18 months, surprisingly light on the palate, engaging finish. -Cuevas del Puma Red Limited Collection 1998, $59.95: 50/50 malbec and merlot, broad fruit on palate and finish, oak dominates the nose, less aggressive wine than the 2000. -Cuevas del Puma Cabernet Sauvignon 1996, $59.95: depth, dynamic on the palate, full and lush but Euro elegance, muscular tannins still, needs time. Best red of the tasting, fair value. -Camelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, $45.95: red fruit showing, smooth, long length, some coffee, 16 months French oak, but in a mid-Atlantic style. We also sampled the 2000 and the 2002, neither of them yet released, and they showed a consistent evolution of off dry and tannins. -Camelo Patti Partida Limitada 2002, ??: with a blend of cabernet sauvignon, franc, malbec and merlot, and fewer tannins showing. As a quality wine event, showing us some unique wines, I would rate this as 8.6 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2004 – The theme was “Spain: old wines, new wines”; the venue was Hart House; the time was mid-day…The annual Spanish wine tasting came back to Toronto, with more wines and more food than ever. The catalogue and the delivery suffered from the same problems as the Sonoma show. There were wines that never showed up and there were wines that appeared as if by magic. Nevertheless, I plowed my way through the show in five hours, which included time for eating a lunch of chorizo, shrimp, Serrano ham, Spanish cheeses, cod cakes, and peppers. The crowd seemed smaller than in previous years. I started with white wines, and quickly ran out: there were not many of them. There was a fresh and fruity Anoranza 2003 from Lozano (Mancha, B & W Wines) made from the airen grape, $9.95. There was a decent Marques de Caceres Antea Blanco 2002 (October Vintages, $14.95) with French oak treatment for a viura/malvasia blend. But none of the older white Riojas of yesteryear. Rather than wait for the end of the show to taste the sherry as I did last year (and missed the opportunity because they ran out of sherry or I ran out of time), I moved on to the sherries after lunch. Again, there was not much, maybe saving their reserve for the sherry tasting later this month. MCO had some Montilla-Moriles in Bod. Toro Albaia (Viejisimo Solera 1922 at $32.50, Amontillado Convento 1971 at $61.40, and Don PX 2001 at $25.10) as well as Alvaro Domecq from Jerez with Amontillado 1730 at $81.45. Woodman Wines and Spirits had their aged line from Gonzalez Byass, all about $26.95 per half-bottle, and turning up at Vintages this month: Matusalem, Noe, Del Duque, Apostoles Palo Cortado. There were no really new cavas, so I passed on them. That brought me to the reds, and there were quite a few outstanding reds, albeit in a mid-Atlantic or North American style, and not from the Rioja. The three major areas were Rioja, Penedes, and Ribera del Duero, and the big question was availability: General List, Vintages, Consignment, Private Order, etc. This affects marketing, of course. Here were some reds I enjoyed: Vinas del Montsant Fra Guerau (soft, fruity depth, $26 from Airen), the Pares Balta Penedes Dominio Cusine 1790, 1996 vintage ($664 from Barrique) and the simpler Mas Irene 1999 at $17.95 (tightly packed fruit, cabernet franc and merlot blend), the Vina Solorca Ribera del Duero Barrica 2001 (off-dry, chocolate, North American style, US oak, $15.90 from Brunello), the Vega Real Ribera del Duero 2003 (mocha, fruit, $15 from Capricorn), Campillo Reserva Rioja 1996 (broad sweetness on palate, $31.95 from Celebrated Cellars), the Marques de Riscal Gran Reserva Rioja 1998 (still tight, $48.95 from Cipelli), Chivite Navarra Coleccion 125 Reserva 1999 (delicious, great value, $40 from Churchill Cellars), the CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva 1996 ($56.95 from Diamond) as well as the CVNE Reserva 2000 ($24.95), the Gran Verema 2000 Old Vines Tempranillo ($30, Dionysus), Cantaburros Crianza 1999 (old flavours, oak tones, $30 from MCO), Morlanda Vi de Guarda Priorato ($83, MCO), and Muga’s line continues to uphold the Rioja traditions. The Reserva 2000 (at Vintages, $23.95) was especially good value for the money. The Muga Reserva Seleccion Especial 2000 showed good integration (Classics, $39.50). Torion, the agent, also poured a surprise Muga Torre 2000, 75% tempranillo, which was phenomenal in its length and strength ($65 US). Vergina was showing Vina Hermosa Rioja Ogga Reserva 2000, 100% tempranillo and $65.50 by private order; it was loaded with red fruit and showed tempranillo oxidativeness. Woodman had Legaris Crianza from the Ribera del Duero, nicely developed for $23.95. Specialized agencies included Iberowine Imports with products from D.O. Mentrida (Vega Gitania) and Vina Magnavia (Ribeiro) plus private orders from wineries in Rueda, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, La Mancha (I enjoyed the Pago Florentino 2002, 14.5% alcohol, eight months French and US oak, all cencibal grapes, intense fruit, $23.45), and Navarra. Lucas Wines is a new agency, with Castiblanque from Tierra de Castilla and F.Castro from Valdepenas, both on private order. A third agency was Spain Only 1, with concentrated fruit in their Estefania Tilenus D.O. Bierzo, at all levels (Roble at $22, Crianza at $33, and Reserva at $55), Pazo Pondal D.O. Rias Baixas, about $14, with 60% mencia grapes (full and firm), Saenz de Santamaria Rioja Rondan Crianza 1997 and Reserva 1995 (the latter at Vintages in December, $31, the former on consignment: both had a good earthy, minerally quality). The Romale Merlot, from D.O. Ribera del Guadiana, was $14 of aggression and tobacco. Palacio de Villachica (D.O. Toro) in a series of wines labeled 3T ($14.45), 4T ($16.50), and 5T (Reserva, $22.25) showed a ton of sweet vanilla oak, increasing as the price rose). As a quality wine and food event, bearing in mind the catalogue, I would rate this function an 8.8 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2004 – This morning the wine press assembled at Crush Wine Bar for a tasting of Chilean wines, organized by the Chilean Trade Commission and Forefront Communications. It was an open and shut, no nonsense blind tasting by flight, followed by a scrumptious set of sandwiches and salads. We tasted wines submitted by the agents. There were eight sauvignon blancs, only three chardonnays, one pinot noir, three merlots, three carmeneres, one malbec, five cabernet sauvignons, and ten cabernet sauvignon reserves. Surprisingly, there were no syrah wines. My favourites of the event were the Santa Rita 2004 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (+275677, $12.45 General) with its peppery, good MVC nose, excellent finish, fresh all round; the Cousino-Macul 2003 Antiguas Reserva Chardonnay ($14.95, but not available in this market); the Morande Pionero Chardonnay 2001 (+602680, $8.80 from Majestic) with its rich nose, mid-palate lifted fruit, and a lingering dramatic finish – great value at this price level; the Ventisquero 2001 Yali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon and the Reserva Carmenere ($11.95 each, but not yet available in this market); the Concha y Toro 2002 Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon (+337238, $17.95 General List) with its dense chunky body, good palate development, and tons of black fruit; the San Pedro 2002 Castrillo de Molina Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (+339176, $13.50 General List) one of the best red values out there with a rustic nose, sweet palate, and engaging finish; the similarly structured Perez Cruz 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (+694208 Vintages, $13.95); the J.Bouchon 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (+531764, $9.90) one of the oldest wines here, with its Bordeaux-like nose, slightly herby palate, and mouth-filling finish – needs food; and, of course, the Caliterra 2001 Sena (not in the market yet). The hands down winner was the mystery wine, Almaviva 2001, a joint project of Rothschild and Concha y Toro (+740233, $84.95), ripe and voluptuous, about a year away from being completely ready. As a quality food and wine event, this one, with its superb table service, rates 9 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2004 – The 2004 Gourmet Food & Wine Expo celebrates its tenth anniversary this year (November 25 – 28, Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building, www.foodandwineshow.ca). At the press launch (I arrived late, coming from another function), samples of California cuisine were distributed from Far Niente, the host of the launch. Chefs from the Food Network Canada were attending, and the whole launch was subsequently turned over to a tasting of California wine. California is this year’s theme region. Vintners will be coming to the show, as well as demonstration chefs. There are over 20 different tasting seminars. All the major players were on board for our mini-tasting, but while Mondavi wines were here, there was no one available to pour them. There was speculation that the just-announced hostile takeover by Constellation ($1.3 billion US) had already taken its toll among the agents. Some of the Chardonnays I enjoyed at the show included Beringer Stone Cellars Chardonnay 2001 (+606806 General, $13.95), Cuvaison Chardonnay Carneros 2001 (+988261 Vintages, $33.95), Fetzer Pacific Bay Chardonnay 2003 (+606418 General, $10.95), Fetzer Chardonnay Viognier 2003 (+612382 General, $12.95, 60/40 proportions), Wente Chardonnay 2002 (General, $14.95), and Kendall Jackson Great Estates Sonoma Chardonnay 2000 (+906214 Vintages, $31.30). From the very few reds I tried (time pressures) I enjoyed Kendall-Jackson Great Estates Mendocino Zinfandel 2000 (+643999 Vintages, $34.20), their Great Estates Sonoma Merlot 1999 (+643981 Vintages, $34.20), and the Wente Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (General List, $14.95). Other wineries exhibiting at the show include Talus, Vendange, Ravenswood, E & J Gallo, Ironstone, Niebaum-Coppola, Delicato, Markham, and R.H.Phillips. As a quality wine and food event, this one definitely rates 8.7 out of 10. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2004 – The Fourth edition of the Port & Douro Wines Institute Tastings played out at the King Edward Hotel this afternoon. It was a relaxed, casual affair, focused on the heavy-heavys of the wine world. There were plenty of Portuguese-styled foods and cheeses, cold cuts, some hot dishes, sausages, and the like. All the top producers were here: Calem, Ramos Pinto, Cockburns, Delaforce, Ferreira, Fonseca, Osborne, Kopke, Niepoort, Offley Forrester, Dow, Smith Woodhouse, Taylor Fladgate, Graham, Warre. As with the previous shows, it was all overwhelming. There appeared to be more Douro table wines this year. I started with these. They all appeared to be strong, inky, dense wines nowhere near ready yet, with a few exceptions. The table wines are made in the same region, from the same grapes as ports are made. So that includes the various tourigas, and in the case of the luscious Niepoort’s Redoma Red 2001 ($57.85 from FWP Trading), this means no fewer than thirty (30) different varietals. Other reds I enjoyed included just about everything from Quinta de Ventozelo (a basic $9.95 everyday, an oaked style for $18.75 in both 2000 and 2001 vintages, and a very promising but tight Touriga Nacional 2001 at $24.95: contact B & W Wines). Castelinho’s Lagar dos Saraivas 2000 ($39, French oak, through Rubaiyat) and Colheita Especial 2000 ($24.50, US oak) also seemed to be delightful in a few more years. Quinta de Roriz Reserva 2001 (+652065, $35.95) had 12 months in new French oak. The most accessible table wines were from C.A.R.M. (FWP Trading). The Douro Reserve 2000 ($34.35 private order) had heavy oak tones despite a 50/50 proportion with stainless. But it was ready now, and could hold. The Touriga Franca 2001 ($25.55 Consignment) was toothy but developing well, ready soon. I was disappointed that there were not many older ports in the show, unlike previous years. The really expensive ports were just not selling, apparently. Smith Woodhouse had 1985 ($79.55) and 1980 ($90), and Ferreira showed 1982 ($54.95) from amongst the Vintage Ports. There were fewer Vintage Ports but more Colheitas, one of my favourite categories of wines. Kudos should go to those producers who showed older wines, such as Kopke with its Colheita 1977 ($64.95) and 1984 ($38.95), Castelinho with its Colheita 1961 ($139), Dow with its Colheita 1994 ($28.50), and Calem with its Colheita 1990 ($54). There was a scattering of rubies and tawnies (including Newman’s Celebrated), plus the LBV and ten year old tawnies. Of particular interest to me were the 20 year old tawnies, such as Graham’s ($35.95 half-bottle), Fonseca’s ($32.25 half-bottle), Offley Forrester’s, Taylor Fladgate’s, Castlinho’s, Warre’s, Cockburn’s. All were comparably priced, for full or half bottles. Then, of course, there is the radical shift over to 30 or 40 year-old ports, full of wispy allusions to vanilla and walnuts, pale in colour. Fonseca had a 40 for $114, Offley Forrester had a 30 for $82.05, Taylor Fladgate had a 30 for $180, and a 40 for $219 (and you could taste the difference), and Calem had a 30 year old for $49 the half-bottle. As a quality wine and food event, this one ranks 8.9 out of 10. MONDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2004 – Another long day labouring on your behalf. In the mid-morning there was “A Taste of Lombardy” launched at Oro, starting with food from the region (DOP cheeses and meats), and then a buffet lunch (with no place to sit) and a wine tasting. Federlombarda Agricoltori was in town for a series of events, which included cooking demonstrations and dinners. Taleggio, Gorgonzola, and Grana Padano were featured, along with Carnaroli rice, Garda Bresciano olive oil, the sparkling wines and red wines of Franciacorta, and the red wines of Valtellina, plus other foods. Even Parma ham is involved: 65% of the pigs used in the production of Parma ham come from Lombardy….Tony Aspler led the wine writers through a tasting of eight wines. Here are some notes: -Cuvee Brut Bellavista Franciacorta, +711093 Vintages, $48.35: 80% chardonnay and pinot bianco, 20% pinot nero. MC production, clean, refreshing, good tart finish, apples and minerals. -Brut Ca del Bosco Franciacorta, $52.40 Consignment from Small Winemakers (416- 463-7178): 75% chardonnay, 15% pinot bianco, 10% pinot nero. MC, a more firm wine than the Bellavista, better with food, smokey from barrel aging. -Curtefranca Bianco Ca del Bosco Terre di Franciacorta 2003, $44.80 Consignment from Small Winemakers, ripe pears, integrated oak, full, good acid balance and a long finish. -I Frati Ca Dei Frati Lugana, $21.40 Consignment, Small Winemakers, some anise on the nose, trebbiano grapes, soft mouthfeel, balancing acidity for food. -Curtefranca Rosso Ca del Bosco Terre di Franciacorta 2001, $38.90 Consignment, Small Winemakers, bright red currant nose, some length, 27% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 16% nebbiolo, 13% barbera. -“Sassella” Fojanini Valtellina Superiore 1998, +950196 Vintages, $24.95, aged two years in large oak, great nebbiolo hit and depth, mature notes of tar and leather suggest a light Barbaresco. Excellent value. 5% local varieties added. -Rosso Bellavista Terre Di Franciacorta 2000, +706192 Vintages, $27.17, nose of cherries and red currants, nicely aged, good quality, ruby colour, robustly elegant. -“Signoire” Pietro Nera Valtellina Superiore Riserva 1998, +917807 Vintages, $17.95, good value red, 95% nebbiolo, 5% local varieties, rustic, dried fruit and affordable, food wine, like a light Barbaresco. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates 8.2 out of 10. MONDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2004 – I walked up to Hart House for the annual Vinos de Jerez tasting, hosted by the Regulatory Council for Sherry. There was a Tio Pepe Fino reception wine ($15.70), followed by a talk by Cesar Saldana, the General Manager of the Council. He led us through the process, the rules, the grapes, production of sherry, noting modern changes along the way. And then we went on to the tasting. The fino was Jarana Lustau (+721290 Vintages, $8.75 for the half-bottle), suggesting almonds, a bit off-dry on the front palate but good length and finish. It was accompanied by a scallop seviche. The Manzanilla choice was La Goya Delgado Zuleta from Celebrated Cellars (private order), with its very dry nose and body, much more delicate than the fino. It was accompanied by a grilled tomato with a creamy sauce. The amontillado was NPU Sanchez Romate Hnos. (+909325 Vintages, $13.95), amber colour and hazelnuts, typical, accompanying a chicken breast with fruit preserve. The oloroso was Oloroso Argueso Herederos Arg. (+713735 Vintages, $14.95) with a heavy bouquet and some sweetness on the finish. It was accompanied by roast beef and sweet potato mash. I nosed the last four sherries because of a low tolerance for sweets. The pale cream, a sort of white port (or is it the other way around?) was Gonzalez Byass Croft Original, +73452 Vintages, $14.95; it came with a smoked salmon and cheese flour tortilla. It is basically (fino or amontillado) + (unaged sweet wine or concentrated grape must). The medium sherry was Burdon Luis Caballero, a private order from Hanna. It was basically amontillado plus some sweet wines in a traditional style, accompanied by a walnut and apple crostini. The cream was Duff Gordon’s Santa Maria from Osborne, +31120 on General, $10.05. It came with a chocolate pot de crème. The Pedro Ximenez was a private order from MCO, Pilar Aranda, and with its toffee and treacle tones, it was the perfect syrup for the scoop of vanilla ice cream that came with it. This was a well-rounded event, attended by 75 people from the trade, with more coming in the evening for the similar consumer tasting. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates 8.8 out of 10. MONDAY. OCTOBER 25, 2004 – After the sherry tasting (which ran over by almost an hour), I did a book review and then walked to Mistura for “part two” of the Lombardy day. The Federlombardia Agricoltori sponsored a “Serata del Gusto” at Mistura, to show off the foods and wines of Lombardy. Government officials, LCBO personnel (including Andrew Brandt himself), several wine writers I have not seen in ages, wine writers I just saw an hour before, some food writers, and other media personnel jammed the restaurant for some of the finest food served this night in Toronto. There were no new or different wines from the lunch, but many in attendance had not been at the lunch. We started with the Bellavista Brut, showing its strength with the Grana Padano, prosciutto, and polenta crostini appetizers. Onion rings, cheese twists, and wild mushrooms on toasted brioche also made an appearance. The radicchio salad – as an antipasto – had balsamic seared figs and gorgonzola cream, along with Lombardy olive oil; it was partnered with the I Frati Lugana white, which seemed to improve with food. The primo was pumpkin and black truffle risotto (my second of the day), taleggio cheese, and crispy shallots. Here we were served the Curtefranco Rosso. The secondo was stuffed quail wrapped in prosciutto on savoy cabbage; the wine was the charming Sassella Valtellina. With cheeses (Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Grana Padano we had the other Terre di Franciacorta, the Bellavista Rosso. After the dessert of sour black cherry millefeuilles, the Brut Franciacorta Ca del Bosco came out. It was my favourite of the evening. The service was excellent, the food just right with the wines (and the food came from the kitchen in a hot state, rare when serving 100 people or more), and the ambience terrific, with lots of networking and catching up… As a quality wine and food event, this one was hard to beat: give it a 9.7 out of 10. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 26, 2004 – The Ontario Wine Society held its monthly tasting tonight at its regular stand, Tasting Rooms. It was a vertical tasting of Southbrook Chardonnays. Bill Redelmeier, who runs Southbrook, has just released the last of the winery’s older chardonnays. The Triomphe and Triomphus labels are their premium wines. The Society assembled Triomphe Chardonnays from 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002. They retail for $19.95 a bottle. There was also a Southbrook Winery Chardonnay Lailey Vineyard 1999 ($24.95), a bottling of wine from just that one vineyard. The Triomphus Chardonnays tonight came from 1998, 2000, and 2002 (only the better years for this reserve label). They are priced at $99.95 a magnum. These Triomphe-Triomphus wines are a blend from three different vineyards, to reflect the house style of higher acidity coupled with higher oaking of 14 months or more. All had received 100% malolactic fermentation. Bill spoke to the wines after we all tasted on our own. The voting afterwards was not surprising: every wine was somebody’s favourite wine, just about equally distributed. My own favourite was the Lailey single vineyard, although I liked all the wines. I had been drinking (indeed, even buying with my own nickel) these wines for several years, so I was familiar with them. Some notes: -Triomphe 2002 – rich butter, clovey, thick, higher acidity, some ginger (as Bill noted) -Triomphe 2001 – smooth nose, little aroma, closed somewhat but a long engaging finish, needed food. -Triomphe 2000 – rich, integrated nose with fruit, a bit thin on finish. -Lailey 2000 – oaky, broad sweetness, more perfume, more lactic tones, lower acidity, smooth on palate and on finish. My favourite of the night. -Triomphus 2000 – sweet nose but older characteristics, some age showing, golden colour. -Triomphe 1999 – bright perky nose, smooth on palate, some coconut tones. -Triomphus 2002 – old, mellowing, a bit cloudy (this was a barrel sample) -Triomphus 1998 – oak on the nose, broad palate, exceptionally long finish. As usual, Tasting Rooms came up with its sterling assortment of seven apps to go with the wines (escargots, shrimp, French brie, prosciutto, duck spring roll, etc.). As a gourmet wine and food event, this one rates a definite 8.9 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 – Mid-afternoon today was the time slot for a portfolio tasting from Airen. Laura Rapuano decided to show off her consignment stock at George restaurant, a new venture at 111 Queen St. East. Twenty-one wines were presented. And most of them were spectacular. All prices are retail. She reps Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil, a small organic producer in Cairanne (South Rhone). The company has Cuvee Marie Rouviere 2001 (barrel aged nose, black fruits, $23.36 retail) and Cuvee Lea Felsch 2001 (tight, some syrah component on the palate, good value for fruit and flavour, $20.85). Laura also has Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves of Sonoma, with a range that includes Sonoma Blanc de Noirs (broad off-dry palate feel, $29.45), and table wines such as Etesian Pinot Noir 2002 (cherry-berry, $23.26), Carneros Pinot Noir 2001 (deep colour, New World chocolate style all the way, $35.55), and Carneros Syrah 2000 (smokey, Euro style, a bit tight on the finish, $35.55). Other Freixenet wines, this time from Spain, included the white Vionta Albarino 2003 (fragrant, off-dry finish, decent price, $22.89), a bargain Ribera del Duero in Vega Riaza Cosecha 2002 ($18.04), the stylish Conde de Caralt Tinto Reserva 1999 (with 15% cabernet sauvignon that is obvious, $19.78), and the Fra Guerau 2002 from Montsant (a mix of seven grape varieties [4 indigenous] aged in US and French oak, mostly red fruit and mocha, $26). Over to New Zealand, Laura presented us with Thornbury Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (packing a lot of herbs, $22.77) and Marlborough Pinot Noir 2002 (good quality, cool climate, $32.56). Schinus from Goulburn Valley in Australia had a Shiraz 2001 (elegant, Euro styling, some restrained fruit, $19.57) and a Merlot 2002 (light and evolving, $19.57). From Victoria in Australia comes Dromana, withy an Estate Shiraz 2001 (a bit tight in structure, needs decanting, $25.99), a Garry Crittenden I Barbera 2001 (dramatic fruit, not Italianate but plummy and cherries and anise, $22.84), Mornington Estate Pinot Noir 2002 ($22.10) and the white David Traeger Verdelho 2002 (fragrant and developing, ($18.75). Duke from California is a negociant crafting immediately accessible wines, useful for the restaurant wine list, such as Chardonnay 2002 (good integration of fruit and vanilla, $16.70) and Cabernet 2002 (mostly from Lodi, a bit light, $16.70). For further details, contact Laura at 416-604-4076 or laura@airen.com (www.airen.com) As a wine event, this one rates a 8.7 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 – FWP Trading had a joint Portuguese tasting at the Encomium art gallery. It was a catered affair, with special guests Joaquim Guimaraes, Commercial Director of Pancas, and both David Baverstock (Winemaker) and Manuel Cordeiro (Commercial Director) of Esporao. It was a return visit to Toronto for all of them. Quinta de Pancas makes wine in the Estremadura while Herdade do Esporao makes wine in the Alentejo. Thirteen wines were sampled. All prices are retail. All wines are on consignment. One of the highlights was Quinta de Pancas Chardonnay 2003 (good value, in a North American style, with muted wood tones, $16.40). The Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 showed good depth, with a fruity nose ($18.20). The Assemblage 2002 makes for a great restaurant-ready wine ($16.30). Other wines available included the Red ($12.95 in Vintages), the Touriga Nacional Special Selection 2001 ($42.40 in Classics), and the Aragonez Special Selection 2001 ($42.40 by private order). The Esporao tasting began with the delightful Sparkling 2000, an excellent fizz for only $23.45. The Esporao White Reserve 2003 followed (full-bodied, $17.90), as well as the Monte Velho Red 2003 (tight at first, but useful for restaurants at $11.60). The Red Reserve 2001 showed its quality and depth at a reasonable $26; it was my favourite all- round red of the tasting. The Syrah 2002 was light in syrah tones but had a chocolate component ($21.40). The Aragones 2002 was sufficient and useful, but still lightweight ($21.40). Other wines tasted included the Esporao Red Private Selection 2001 ($60 at Classics). For more details about the availability of these wines (and other Portuguese wines), call Pedro Vieira at FWP Trading 416-487-6153 or fwp@winesofportugual.ca (www.winesofportugual.ca). As a wine and food event, this one rates a definite 9 out of 10. PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH, FROM VARIOUS SOURCES ================================================= -Trius Chardonnay 2002 Niagara (Hillebrand, +291476, $12.95): smooth mellow flavours from a partially BF wine with some oak maturation, good balance between fruit and wood, but medium in style all the way. -Trius Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2002 Niagara (Hillebrand, +497248, $16.95): an appealing balanced wine, aged one year in French and US oak (75/25), partially new wood. Some toast and creaminess, but still in a leanish apple- lemon finish, good with food, perhaps best next year. -Trius Riesling Dry 2003 Niagara (Hillebrand, +303792, $13.95): not the Trius Riesling of the past (searingly dry) but a more balanced fruit-acid blend with a sweetness level of 1. Think citrus and stone fruit. -Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (+396994 Vintages, $13.95): at 14% alcohol, great body, long herby length, and full of sauvignon succulence. -Les Fumees Blanches Sauvignon Blanc 2003 L & F Lurton (+472555 General List, $9.95): an engaging little bit of herbaceousness from an area in France you probably never heard of. Great price. -Etchart Cafayate Torrentes Privado 2003 Argentina (+283754 General List, $10.05): tropical palate, fresh and fruity, a perfect sipper but with long length. -Tolnai Olaszrizling Late Harvest 2002 Szigetvin/Chateau Kurdi Hungary (+692731 Vintages, $9.95): a gold medal winner in Hungary, and it is not hard to see why. Late Harvesting (=Spatlese) increases the density and extract of the juice, sometimes introducing a bit of honey tones. By using welschriesling (a lesser grape variety) costs can be controlled while still maintaining quality. Here are some bitter almonds, an engaging dry body, and more complexity than in most wines under ten dollars. -Gotto d’Oro Marino Superiore 2003 Lazio (+206516 General, %7.20): an affordable Italian aromatic white, made from a half dozen varieties including malvasia and trebbiano. Enjoyable for its refreshingly bitterish aftertaste. -Moselland Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay 2003 Riesling (+015875, $8.30 General): a fresh riesling from the fabled 2003 vintage, only 9.3% alcohol, off-dry. -Pillitteri Gewurztraminer Riesling 2003 Niagara VQA (+349126, $10.05) was light bodied, but with a spicy gewürztraminer character tempered by racy riesling acidity and backbone. -Pillitteri Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2002 Niagara VQA (+349167) had mild barrel tones with an accent of pear puree, plus apples and vanilla. 13.5% alcohol. -Tokaji Furmint 2003 Hungary (Puklus Wine Cellars, Vintages, +608505, $9.95) at 14% is an awesome wine at 14% alcohol, clearly showing what the furmint grape can do when fermented bone dry. -Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 1998 Hungary (Puklus Wine Cellars, Vintages, +9800805, $18.95) is a medium-bodied, affordable off-sweet dessert wine from the Tokay region, reflecting some honeyed tones. -Soproni Dom. Szeremley Cabernet Sauvignon-Kekfrankos 2000 Hungary (+905612 Vintages, $11.95): this silver medal winner (Paris) is a dense, full-bodied wine, which needs time to resolve. 12.5% alcohol and wood tones dominate. -Chateau Bonnet Bordeaux Rouge Reserve 2000 Lurton (+99044 General List, $16.40): extensive wood treatment gives this wine more character than its price suggests. Nice wood integration for a merlot blend, good mouthfeel. -Jacob’s Creek Shiraz 2002 (+548644 General List, $12.40): very Rhonish in character, making this a bargain wine. 14% alcohol. -Castillo de Molina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2002 Chile (+339176 General List, $13.50): another bargain price for “reserve” level quality, lots of black fruit stuffing and a long engaging finish. -Grant Burge Barossa Merlot 2002 (+627182 General List, $17.95): delicious complexity from Australia, but with some unresolved oak (even at this late date). -Trius Red 2002 Niagara (Hillebrand, +303800, $19.95): good bordeaux-style blend of cabernet franc (67%), cabernet sauvignon (18%), and merlot (15%) aged a year in all French oak (25% new). Vinified separately and later assembled after full MF. Takes a while to open up, with typical bordeaux notes and lush black currants, some leafiness in mid-palate, some bitter chocolate at finish, nice price. -Trius Grand Red 2001 Niagara (Hillebrand, +981050, $52): selection of top 40 barrels from the vintage, resulting in 55% cabernet franc, 40% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% merlot in composition. Full MF, French oak (90%) and US oak (10%). Deep, but still young, plush tones of mocha. Needs 15 more years, but you can accelerate the process – as I did – by decanting several times and tasting it over a few days (about 4 should do it: this is tough if you order it now in a restaurant, but with BYOW, you can obviously decant ahead of time). -Bosca Merlot del Veneto 2003 (+405365, $6.80 General List): not an aggressive merlot, but an Italian IGT of softness and quaffability (11.5% alcohol). -Angove’s Bear Crossing Cabernet 65/Merlot 35 2003 South Australia (+592766, $12.10 General List): softly fruity, some mintiness, enough stuffing for the finish, and very competitive for the $12 price point market. -Pillitteri Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Niagara VQA (+349233) was lighter than most cabbies, but also stylish and elegant, with a leafiness leading to cedar. Definitely a food wine, 12.6% alcohol. -Pillitteri Merlot 2002 Niagara VQA (+566661) was medium bodied, approachable, with some black fruit becoming chocolate-mocha. Another restaurant wine. -Szekszardi Kekfrankos 2002 (Vinarium, Hungary, +608851, $9.95) at Vintages had raspberry fruit and fresh acidic bite, but needs food. Some oak aging. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER 2004 ========================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com Well, the response to my ratings of quality wine events around town was fantastic…so many of you loved the idea…I will continue it, and I now contribute some columns to www.tonyaspler.com. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 through THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 9, 2004 – The concept was great; the execution was less so. It was billed as “Discovery of the Great Wines of France”, a premiere in North America, at Toronto’s Ontario Club. Over three days, we were able to taste some 200 wines from France (plus one from Spain) at our own pace. We could do it in an hour, or we could do it in three days. The producers were looking for access to the Ontario marketplace. The same 200 wines were available at all times, from 11 AM through 9 PM, with an assortment of cheeses and cold cuts and breads and fruits. Invitees came from restaurants, LCBO, agencies, and writers. It was a major marketing thrust for the Mediterranean regions of France (plus a handful of Alsace, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais). We were each given a loginID and a password, a wine glass, a catalogue of producers, and as much time/space as we needed to taste as many wines as we needed. The loginID and password were valid for two months. The wines were arranged by region. Each wine was numbered (and linked to the producer in the catalogue). We poured our own wines without an intermediary’s message. The procedure was to taste and try, and then enter the numbers of the wines that one liked into the website – which then returned a spec sheet with tasting notes and prices. The concept had been successfully tested in Japan and Korea. Only two things went wrong. First, most of the wines were ordinary and were like many other wines already in this market. There was never any indication of a price level until you keyed in the product number. Wines were in price level categories, from one star to four stars, with ranges indicated on the spec sheet. Just about every wine I liked was four stars, over $34 retail. So despite “Rencontres Decouvertes des Grands Vins de France”, I would not call them “great wines”. The buzz I heard from just about everyone was: if these wines are “great”, then why are they seeking an agent? Wouldn’t they have been found out by now? Second, each of us fell into a category; consequently, when we were told the prices, it all depended on who we were. Writers were never told the FOB Euro price (we were told that such prices are extremely private and, as writers, not our concern: ha ha ha !!) – just the expected shelf price at full retail. There was even an estimated wholesale price for the restaurants. But such a price does not exist in Ontario – only in the US! The producers could track us all down via the loginID, to see who was a writer, LCBO, agent, or restaurant. Each of us got a different price. On the first day, this price was US dollars and Euros. On the second day, it was the same. But when – on my return visit on the third day -- I told the administrators about the US dollar gaffe, they corrected it without informing anybody from the first two days! The US dollar figure should have been CA dollars. The dollars on days one and two had “US”; the dollar figures on day three had no designation whatsoever. When I logged in again after a week, the designation had changed to “CAD”. Confused? You were not the only one. Unfortunately, some people left their loginID and password pages open on the computer screen. The next user simply typed in a product number and got a price, which may not have been relevant. In essence, all they had to do was tell us the price level and hand out spec sheets on demand, without the computers. But they wanted to keep track of us, to see who was eyeballing the product numbers… Here are the wines I enjoyed, with their retail shelf prices...If you tasted them, compare your list to mine…(from Spain there was the delightful Ribera del Duero Panero 2003 from Bod. Piscierga, 100% tempranillo, #94, and only $10–17) Domaine de Saint Roch Mas de Ribaute 1999 Chardonnay Pays D’Oc, wood- aged, lees aging, 6% in barrel, #33, $10-17 Domaine de Caprieri 2003 Muscat Vin de Pays Cote de Thongue, off-dry, #103, $17-25 Domaine de la Prose 2002 Blanc, some wood, off-dry, 50% vermentino handpicked, #74, $25-34 Pin d’Alep 2003 Viognier Pays D’Oc, bright, #158, under $10 Le Pigeonnier 2003 Cotes de Nimes, 60% syrah, #152, $10-17 Clos de la Colline 2002 Minervois, 60% syrah, $93, under $10 Domaine de Belle Courbes 2001 St.Chinian, wood aged one year, 70% grenache, 30% syrah, #135, 16-25 Chateau Sestignan 2000 Medoc, 60% cab.sauv., #191, $25-34 Ch. Fornier de Clausonne 2001 Cotes de Nimes, ripe and full, 14.5% alcohol, 80% syrah, #151, $25-34 Dom. La Charade 2001 Cotes du Rhone, 60% syrah, #79, $10-17 Les Combes Mezieres 2003 Cotes de Nimes, off-dry, tannic finish, 75% syrah, #90, $10-17 Mas du Petit Azegat Boudes 2003 Cotes du Rhone, organic, off-dry fruit, #40, $10-17 Ch. Malautie 2000 Coteaux du Languedoc, tight but dramatic fruit, 80/20 mourvedre/syrah, 14% alcohol, #142, over $34 Ch. Haut-Blanville 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc, 85 syrah/5 grenache/5 mourvedre/5 carignan, 30% new wood for a year, rich raspberries, vanilla, anise, 13.5% alcohol, #8, $25-34. One of the best wines there. Cuvees “Grandes Costes” Domaine Los Grandes Costes 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc, new French oak, smokey, fleshy fruit, 70% syrah, #101, over $34 Ch. LaVernede 2002 Coteaux du Languedoc, one year in oak, 28% syrah, #14, $10-17. Ch. Cabezac Belveze 2001 Grande Cuvee Minervois, deep and inviting, 14%, #53, over $34 Chat. Le Bouis Cuvee Arthur 2002 Corbieres, 100% syrah, wood aged, prize winner (according to label), #181, over $34 Domaine Montana 2002 Vin de Pays de Cotes Catalanes, sturdy, some depth, #99, $10-17. Chateau Cruscades Cabernet Sauvignon October 2 2003 Cruscades Valley Pays D’Oc, very New World label, named after the harvest date, 14.5% alcohol, aged 3 months in US and French oak, very North American in style, #148, over $34 Domaine de Roquefourcat 2000 Corbieres, 13% alcohol, ripe and full nose and flavours, 40% syrah, #18, $25-34 Chat. St Louis 2002 Corbieres, 13% alcohol, very approachable, #89, under $10. Frustrating as it seemed, I actually hope that these guys come back with better wine and a lot better way of informing us… As a quality wine event, taking into consideration the setup, this one ranks 8.2 out of 10. TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 7 AND THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 9, 2004 – The Mani Agency, 905-660-4172 or nicaso@maniagency.com, invited me to a special Ontario launching of the wines of Villa Frattina (Friuli) and Azienda La Mea di Marco Maci (Apulia). Export Director Mario Giolino presented a range of wines from these two estates, including the top cuvee Digale Bianco and Firmus from Frattina and Fra Diavolo and Dragonero of Maci. The first tasting was at Fieramosca Restaurant (no food); the second tasting – with slightly different wines – was at Biagio Ristorante (accompanying food to show off the wines). All wines are by consignment, some by private order. Here are some notes for most of the wines: Villa Frattina NV Prosecco, $14.75 by consignment: off-dry, soft, fruity, developing well. There is a chardonnay brut available by private order for $14. Villa Frattina Pinot Grigio 2003, $17.75 by consignment: good grip with acidic finish, typical PG from Italy. There is also a grassy sauvignon blanc ($17.75) and a fruity chardonnay/pinot grigio blend ($22), both by private order. Villa Frattina Merlot 2002, $17.25 by consignment: fruity, depth, good bite to the finish. Villa Frattina Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, $18.75 by consignment: some leafiness, lightish body, still developing. Villa Frattina Firmus 2001, $22.75 by consignment: barrel aged, 13% alcohol, still tight and tannic at its core, needs time. Maci Corte Barocca IGT Salice Salentino 2002, $12.50 consignment: soft, good value wine, fruity. Maci Fra Diavolo Primitivo IGT 1999, $25 consignment: bright fruit, long length, chocolate. Maci Bella Moigan IGT 1997, $35 consignment: a blend of negroamaro and malvasia nera, still tight and tannic, still needs time. Maci Zephyr 1998 DOC, $22 consignment: a blend of negroamaro and malvasia nera, good fruit and flavour and length. Best value of the tasting. Maci Dragonero IGT 1998, $30 consignment: a blend of negroamaro and merlot, chocolate and coffee flavours dominate. Maci Duca d’Atene Copertino DOC 1997, $28 consignment: negroamaro, showing raisins, plums, some leather, depth. As a quality wine event, this one rates 8.7 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2004 – Sopexa Canada sponsored an Alsatian wine seminar and tasting at Tasting Rooms, mid-afternoon. It was offered to wine writers and CAPS sommelier members. Thierry Fritsch, Manager of Development and Training for the Alsace Wine Council, led the proceedings with a lecture followed by a tasting. The one drawback to this format was that the wines got tasted all at once, not spread over the three hours. And there was no food to accompany what were basically food wines. M. Fritsch constantly mentioned the food aspect, but we had nothing to match the wines with. It was especially disappointing at Tasting Rooms because that restaurant is well-known for putting out a variety of bite- sized food on a plate, sometimes as many as eight different samples of food for wine clubs and other events. As readers know, I usually eat a lot of food anyway, but this time the need for food was warranted. I can only conjecture that Sopexa (which handles both food and wine accounts) had no money. Anyway, many of us went begging for complementary tastes. The good news is that the eight wines sampled were all riesling, so we had a chance to compare just the one grape. Between 1969 and 2003, gewürztraminer was the leading grape but now riesling is. And in 2002 and 2003, sales of Alsatian wines have dropped in most “exported to” countries, thus necessitating a round of marketing (there was an Alsatian wine festival in Toronto in the Spring of 2004). Lately, I have found (via Vintages tastings at the LCBO Lab) that Alsatian wines in the Ontario market are mostly high alcohol wines (14%) and that many of them are off-dry in mouthfeel, lacking that final acid balance. Here’s what we tasted today, with some notes: Pierre Sparr Riesling 2002 (Barrique): youthful, rounded, full in the mouth, ripe and fresh, but not typical riesling. A balanced aperitif. F.E.Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2001 (P.Dandurand): dryer “petrol” nose, lemons on palate, long, long food finish, and best for first course. Some minerals, stones. Domaine Weinbach Riesling Cuvee Ste.Catherine 2001 (Lifford): off-dry on body, ripe, fuller palate, longer finish, fat wine, main course. Paul Buecher Riesling Grand Cru Brand 2001 (Elixirs Vines et Spiriteux, Montreal): rich and ripe but also very dry, excellent length and finish. Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Grand Cru Heimbourg 2001 (Merchant Vintner): full body but off-dry in mouthfeel. Schlumberger Riesling Grand Cru Kitterle 1999 (Torion): full, lots of body and development, aging nicely but could still use more time. F.E. Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile 1999 (P.Dandurand): very petrol like and acidic, best with fatty foods main course (goose, pork). Dopff & Irion Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 1998 (Maxxium): fresh, fruity, off-dry, full bodied, some anise. Hardly aged at all… As a quality wine event, this one needed food: 7.8 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2004 – Just a hop skip and a jump away, we go off to the Loire for an omnium gatherum of some ten wines (what was available on the shelves in Toronto). This is Steve Thurlow’s (by now) annual Loire wine seminar, held at Crush, through the CVA. Almost a score came out for the tasting. Steve had assembled a great collection of wines, with notes and scores taken from Wine Access and their First in Line Database. There were, of course, more wine notes than wines tasted here, and Steve cut off the list at 82 points. Of the ten wines tasted, only five were available at Vintages as of September 9, although there are usually one or two new releases each month. Steve reviewed the previous year, the regions (e.g., more high quality Muscadet is now being made, prices are holding okay), and people’s attitudes towards Loire wines (“what?”) before opening up the tasting. Overall, I was impressed with the quality and freshness, much better than last year’s tasting. Here are the wines, with some notes: Domaine du Vieux Chai 2002 Sur Lie Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, WA rated at 87. Fresh, dry, appley, refreshing. +671065, $13.95 Vintages. Pierre-Luneau Papin 2002 Sur Lie Muscadet Sevre et Maine, WA=89, +695643, $16.95 Vintages. Long length, fresh. Pascal Pibaleau 2002 Touraine Azay-Le-Rideau, WA=87, +950766, $15.95. Something interesting, good stony flavours on finish. Thierry Amirault 2002 Les Quarterons St.Nicolas de Bourgeuil, WA=87, +640284, $19.95 Vintages. Lighter than Ontario cabernet franc, good food wine, try rare red meat. Paul Buisse 2001 Chinon, WA=86, +995977, $15.95. Bright, jammy, fruity, currant nose, still tannic. Couly-Dutheil 1999 Chinon Clos de l’Olive, no rating, +6400615, $28 Classics. Soft, aging well, some bitterness and cranberry tones. Chateau de Sancerre 2002, not rated, +340893, $24.50 General List. Some flab, reduced acid, lemon marmalade, no grass. Henri Bourgeois 2003 Sancerre Les Baronnes, not rated, +542548, $23.95 Vintages Essentials. More citrus on nose, longer finish. better body for 55 cents less. But few herbs. Domain Vacheron 2003 Sancerre, not rated, Consignment from Rogers & Co., $32.70. Lovely, engaging nose. Ripe but mineral character. Huet 2000 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont Vintage, not rated, consignment from Rogers & Co., $31.95. Marmalade, off-dry on palate but body is regular, with a long finish. Should keep longer. As a quality wine event, this function needed food to accompany the mouthfeel of the wines. Rate it an 8 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2004 – “2004 Riesling & Co. World Tour” came to town, specifically the North Lobby of Roy Thomson Hall. This tasting tour began in late spring in Scandinavia, and is in the process of going around the world. On Sept 20, it was in New York, on the 23rd, Chicago, and on Sept 27, it was in San Francisco. Some of the winemakers stopped off in Toronto for a strictly trade tasting in the AM, ahead of the massive Australian tasting in the PM. Most of the wines were riesling from 2003, a voluptuous, fruity vintage with good bracing acid to carry the fruit forward. Some of the BAs and TBAs lacked age, and tasted too flabby right now, but the sugars will dry out in years to come. I did not taste any non-riesling except for a killer Gewürztraminer 2003 from Rappenhof, only $14.75 through Carriage House (905-939-8330), great body and lovely finish. Throughout, the Spatleses and Ausleses shone in 2003. This was a rare opportunity to taste some 125 wines. Accompanying food included cheeses, salmon, hams, breads, vegetables, fruit, and everything went well with the food. These were good accompaniments. The Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut was the only sparkling wine, and it will be back in Vintages by Christmas, making its annual trip to our shores. This time it is 100% riesling from three different vineyards, done up in a brut or Trocken style. Highlighted wineries included Gunderloch (Jean Baptiste Kabinett Riesling 2003), Johanishof (Riesling 2003 Spatlese Johannisberger Klaus, full body, $29.75 from Lacey), Kendermann’s Dry Riesling Series from the Rhine, Moselle, and Pfalz ($12-15 apiece, from three different regions, three different tastes; I liked the fullness of Pfalz best), Hans Lang (Johann Maximilian Riesling 2003, $24.65 from Conoval, and Hattenheimer Hassel Spatlese Riesling 2003, $28.75, both had great finishes), and the Riesling Kabinett 2003 Lieserer Schlossberg from Moselland ($13.95, J.Cipelli: freshly off-dry). My other favourites, equally impressive, included G.H. von Mumm’s Riesling 2003 Spatlese Johanisberger Mittelholle (Torion), a spritzy 2003 Riesling Noble House (Pauly Bergweiler, $14, Vintages in April 2005, +596601, repped by Churchill Cellars), the delicate fruit of Studert-Prum’s 2003 Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr ($23, from Vinexx Global), Max Ferd. Richter’s 2003 Riesling Spatlese Brauneberg Juffer ($25.95 from HHD Imports), and both Domdechant Werner’s 2003 Riesling Kabinett Hochheimer Holle ($18.95) and 2003 Riesling Spatlese Hochheimer Domdechaney ($29.95) – again, from HHD Imports. Overall, I’d have to give top marks to Schloss Schonborn for their selection of 2003 Riesling at all levels. They had eight wines on display, from a basic off-dry, through a bunch of Kabinetts, Spatleses, Auslese, and TBA, all with good depth, character, uncloying, off-dry concentration, nice length, in a variety of price categories. The winery is repped by HHD Imports. As a quality wine event, this one, with its food matches, rates 9.4 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2004 – Later this day, mid-afternoon, the Australian Wine Bureau plus the agents put on the annual Taste Australia Wine Fair, this time at the ROM. Unfortunately, the Canada Court had hard surfaces and I found it difficult to hold conversations, as did other people. I did not enjoy screaming at a winemaker and having him scream back. Later, I resorted to hand signals indicating which wine to pour and how much it cost, and where in the market it was. With such a huge selection of wines, it was impossible to taste everything in three hours, and it was even tough to get to visit every table. Unfortunately, I was not invited to the advance VIP press tasting (only five journalists qualified) so I never got a heads up on some 30 wines; I can only report on what I tasted. I began with the whites, and soon focused on chardonnays, looking for value. Non- chardonnays I enjoyed were the entire range at Mitchelton (Select Wines) – the Viognier 2003 ($27), the Airstrip Marsanne Viognier Roussanne 2002 ($33), and the Thomas Mitchell Marsanne 2003 ($15). They all developed a tremendous amount of fruit and succulence yet were perfectly dry on the palate. There was also Parri Estate Viognier Chardonnay 2004 (55% viognier, $25 from D.A.Lowe & Sons). Yalumba had its fine and fruity Y series Viognier 2004 at $15.45 by consignment (Mark Anthony). Zilzie Estate Viognier 2003 ($16.95, repped by Noble Estates) had a dollop of oak vanillin. I found chardonnay value in Angove’s Bear Crossing South Australia Chardonnay 2003 (J.Cipelli, on General List), Barossa Valley Estate Spires Chardonnay 2003 (Churchill Cellars, also on General List), Black Opal Chardonnay 2003($13.95, repped by P. Dandurand), Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2002 (probably the best one at the show, with its balance of wood-fruit-zestiness, $30 from the Merchant Vintner), Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay 2003 and the Reserve Chardonnay 2002 (Pernod Ricard Canada), DeBortoli dB Chardonnay 2003 ($12.95) and the full-bodied Deen DeBortoli Vat 7 Chardonnay 2003 ($14.95 on General List in January 2005, both repped by Dionysus), Penmara’s oaky Chardonnay Reserve 2001 ($14.95 Vintages, from Barrique), Goundrey Reserve Chardonnay 2002, with new wood ($19.95 Vintages, repped by Vincor), Hamilton’s Ewell Railway Chardonnay 2002 (lightly oaked, $23.95 consignment via Pacific Wines and Spirits), Heathfield Ridge Chardonnay 2000 (Wineworld), Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2002 ($25 from Vergina Imports), Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2001 (great flavours, yummy vanilla, coming to Vintages February 2005 at $24.95), Palandri Baldivis Estate Chardonnay 2001 (off-dry, fruit and slight wood, arriving in Vintages March 2005 for $14.75, or try Schiralli Agencies), Penley Estate Chardonnay 2001 ($23.95 Vintages in Dec. 2004, repped by B and W Wines), Petaluma Chardonnay 2001 (a bit hefty at $35-38, Select Wines), Riverina estates Lombard Station Chardonnay 2003 (entry level, repped by Majestic Wines), a good range at Rosemount (Rosemount Diamond Chardonnay 2003 for $14.10, Rosemount Show Reserve Chardonnay 2003 for $24.95, and Rosemount Roxburgh Chardonnay 2002 at a hefty $44.95), Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2003 (soon to be in Vintages at $15.95, Schiralli), the mostly barrel-fermented Yarraman Estate Classic Hunter Chardonnay 2000 ($24.15, 80% barrel aged in Allier wood, 20%SS, Schiralli), and Yering Station Chardonnay 2002 (Trilogy). As a quality wine event, once my ears stopped ringing, I’d rate this one a 7.8 out of 10. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2004 – This mid-afternoon I was treated to Diamond Estates’ annual Consignment and Vintages wine tasting. It was held at Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar. Diamond reps a wide-range of producers, including Allram (Austria), Pascal Bouchard (Chablis), Kumala (South Africa), Undurraga (Chile), and some smaller estates in Australia, Italy and California. The tasting was complemented by a terrific series of food platters (dips, pitas, toast points, steamed vegetables, cheeses (blue, goat, cheddar), etc.) to match the wines. Here are some notes on the wines I enjoyed (prices are retail): -Lakeview Cellars Beamsville Chardonnay Reserve 2002 ($29.95), full, ripe, dramatic creaminess. -Hope Estate Hunter Valley Estate Chardonnay 2002 ($19.95): elegant, medium oaking, fine value. -Cheviot Ridge SE Australia Shiraz Kissing Bridge 2002 ($14.95): 14% alcohol, displays fine MVC for shiraz, good restaurant wine. -Kirrihill Clare Valley Shiraz 2002 and Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2002, both $23.95, both with screwcap to emphasize freshness and intensity. -Dom. Pascal Bouchard Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2001 ($24.95): affordable Chablis from older vines closely cropped for good minerality and lean complexity, underbrush. -Chateau Peyriac de Mer Muscat Sec Vin de Pays D’Oc 2002 ($16.95): bone dry fruitiness, a good alternative to gewürztraminer without the bitterness. -Clovis Salasc Meditation Cuvee No.1 Languedoc ($32): well made, tight with syrah leather and tannic finish, needs time. 55% syrah, 45% grenache. -Rocche Costamagna Barolo Bricco Francesco 2000 ($65): from the Winter Classics catalogue, almost ready and surprisingly good in the newer style. -Kumala South Africa Merlot Reserve 2003 ($16.95): surprisingly good value, a heavy wine (14.5% alcohol), off-dry fleshy palate, good length, some heat to the finish, cocoa. -Philip Staley Chardonnay 2001 Russian River ($26.95): coming out at Vintages in February 2005, New World elegance, good substance to the mid-palate, nice choice as a restaurant wine. -Philip Staley Petite Sirah 2000 Dry Creek Valley ($35.95): another substantial, dense, chunky wine, best with cheese. -Cantine Due Palme Puglia Primitivo Ettamiano del Salento 1999 ($15.50): one of the best primitivos I have tasted lately, off dry, good depth of flavours, long engaging finish. -Cantine Due Palme Selvarossa Riserva 2000 Salice Salentino ($26.95): ripe, off dry, delicious, pungent, a wine to meditate with. For more details, contact Leo Baduria at Diamond Estates, 416-488-4922. As a quality food and wine event, with good food pairings, I’d rate this at least an 8.9 out of 10. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2004 – Harry and Ingrid Drung held a celebration at the St.Lawrence Hall today. It was the 25th anniversary of the HHD Imports Inc. agency…Harry had previously held a 20th anniversary in Waterloo some five years back. This time he took his show to Toronto. It was called “Suppliers’ Old Gold and Cellars Treasures Tasting”. I stayed away from the spirits, on purpose, because this was my second (of three) wine tastings in one day. Thus, I passed up a 1979 Bunnahabhain 25-year-old (50.2% alcohol), a XO Cognac 1er cru grande champagne Moulin Rouge (Fillioux), a Springbank 15 year-old, and a Longrow 10 year-old. However, I could not miss the dramatic Royal Oporto 1944 Colheita (bottled in 2003, about $200) or the 1953 Colheita (bottled in 2003, about $150). Just about all of the wines at this celebration (which included platters of quality cheeses and fruits) were in extremely limited quantities – but if you are curious, you might want to get in touch with Harry at 519-884-7600…The celebration began with a glass of Cuvee William Deutz 1979 Champagne en magnum, done up especially for Harry and Ingrid, complete with special lettering on the bottle. The wine was all biscuit-y. Many happy returns of the day to HHD Imports. Most of the still wines were from 1979 or 1989 and quite a few were sweeties at BA and TBA levels, all nicely dried out, mostly from Germany. Some reds I liked included a 1998 Alto from Alta Vista (Mendoza) with its 80% malbec and 20% cabernet components from 40 year- old vines, the Carneros Creek Signature Reserve Pinot Noir 1989 with its older character, nearing Burgundy, almost as good as the 1979 Beaune 1er cru “Les Avaux” from Champy Pere, the well-aged Chinon 1989 “Clos de l’Echo” from Couly-Dutheil (dramatic cabernet franc flavours), the Bordeaux-blend of De Toren Fusion V 2001 (Stellenbosch, 60%CS/10%CF/13%Merlot/13%Malbec/4%Petit Verdot), the heavily wooded 1994 Meshach Shiraz Barossa Valley from Grant Burge’s 80 year-old vines at Jacob’s Creek, plus the 1989 Stellenbosch Merlot from Meerlust Estate. Two red highlights were the fabulous Hermitage 1989 “Marquise de la Tourette” en magnum from Delas Freres (it has hardly aged at all, just smoothed out) and the 1979 Chateau Margaux. It was nice to see so many representatives from country trade commissions and wine bureaus, from France, Austria, Australia, etc. As a quality celebratory event, this function got a 9 out of 10. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2004 – The third and final function for me this day was the Ontario Wine Society’s “Cabernet Sauvignons of the World” grand tasting, one of the society’s annual competitions wherein the best of Ontario are pitted against some of best in the rest of the world. It was held, as usual, at Chris Boland’s Tasting Rooms, First Canadian Place. It was an exercise in comparing New World and Old World cabernets, in comparing hot climate with cool climate wines, in comparing Ontario to other regions, in comparing different vintages (both within and without Ontario, and in comparing different origins of oak. Everybody was instructed to bring along their own Qs and As while we were led through the exercise by wine writer Konrad Ejbich, also an expert on Ontario wines and vintages. Nine wines were sampled, including one mystery wine. Konrad and the rest of us tried them blind. Only certain members of the OWS executive knew the correct order. After tasting, we were asked (by a show of hands) for each wine, to indicate whether it was Ontario or not, and whether we liked it best or worse. As with any winetasting with over 100 participants, raised hands were all over the map (so to speak), without any real agreement. Here were my thoughts on the wine (listed in tasting order): -Frescobaldi Castiglioni 2001 (Italy, $19): broad wood on nose, sweet vanillin, balanced, tannic length, definite Euro style. I picked it as the Italian entry. -Cilento 1999 (Ontario, $25): pruney, didn’t age all that well, some soy and veggies (bottle problem?), but picked up when retasted later. I picked it as Ontario, best I could do. -Mystery wine, vintage 2002: a bit shrill, some activity on the finish, mainly high acid. I picked it as Ontario. It was revealed as Magnotta. -Lakeview 1998 (Ontario, $49.95): good new world feel, rich cabernet tones, great feel on the palate, lots of fruit and ripeness, older, some age development. Familiarity with the wine convinced me that it was Lakeview. -Torres Mas La Plana 1997 (Spain, $39): dusty nose, black fruit, broad flavours on palate, dense, chunky, better in a few more years. The nose convinced me it was the Beringer from California. -Wolf Blass Platinum label 2000 (Australia, $80): deep, rich, enveloping, off dry on palate, unctuous, but modest finish. A crowd pleaser. It had to be the Oz wine. It was so obvious. -Reif 2001 (Ontario, $50): good integration of wood and flavours, Euro nose, Bordeaux-style. It had to be French – but France wasn’t included. So maybe Ontario, but who??? Best I could do…This wine had won a Gold at Cuvee. -Beringer Knight’s Valley 1999 (California, $45): raisins, fruit shy, tar, but long flavour and length. I opted for Torres. -Lailey 2002 Canadian Oak (Ontario, $45): prune, some almonds on the nose, modest features throughout (palate, finish), probably needs food. It had to be Ontario. Hey, I did pretty good, considering that I’d been tasting over 100 wines since 2:15 that afternoon. Konrad nailed them all except for the Reif and the Lakeview (he switched them, in his mind) – he even IDed the Magnotta. The final tally, in choice of preference, was: the Wolf Blass first, Reif came second (a good showing for them by the OWS, especially since they provided some reception wine: a Gewurztraminer and their 1999 Chardonnay newly listed at the LCBO for only $14.95), Beringer was third, Torres was fourth, and all the rest were too fragmented to count well. The appetizer menu included tempura shrimp (best with the Reif Gewurztraminer), smoked salmon (Reif Chardonnay), asparagus (pass on the wine), spiced pork satay (Wolf Blass), and Brie (all the other wines). Thanks to the OWS for continuing to promote Ontario wines; for more details, check out the website www.ontariowinesociety.com. Watch for their next compelling tasting, on October 26 (Southbrook Chardonnay vertical) and January 18 (Unusual varieties in Ontario, with the unusual Ed Finstein). As a quality wine and food education event, this rates a 9 out of 10. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2004 – Late afternoon, and I am at the world headquarters of the Small Winemakers Collection, a consortium of the Small Winemakers, SWC Imports, Capricorn Wine Imports, and Epna Wine Imports. This is their monthly Vintages Preview Tasting, a gathering together of next-month’s releases, some Classics product, some consignment, and some private orders: whatever is on their plate. Seventeen wines were shown, along with a cheese platter for refreshing the palate. Here are some notes on my favourites: -Domaine Marc Jomain 2002 Puligny Montrachet, $59.95: lower profile nose, but certainly buttery, excellent grip for longer aging. From the agent. -Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Grande Montagne 2002, $89: slightly perfumed on the nose, good grip and minerals, should do well over the next decade in your cellar. Fall 2004 Classics +640359. -Melin Pouilly Fuisse 2002 Domaine la Soufrandise Clos Marie, $25: one of the better Fuisse available in the Ontario market, golden colour, deep body, developing well at 13.5% alcohol, fine length. A bargain. -Mount Eden 2000 Estate Chardonnay Santa Cruz, $44: juicy, full and lusty with an engaging oaky finish, mostly to sip. +603829, Fall 2004 Classics. -Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards 1999 Bobcat Blend, $17.95: another California blend of 75% syrah, 21% merlot, 4% cabernet franc, this time a bit tart but with smoke and aging well, nice price for restaurants. -Bonny Doon 2001 California Syrah, $25.95: another nicely priced restaurant wine, affordable and approachable now, dry, peppery, some mint in the nose, full lush body, long engaging finish, somewhat hot. +732511, Fall 2004 Classics Tasting. -Dowie Doole Merlot 2002 McLaren Vale, $25.70: with 5% cabernet sauvignon for a bit more structural backbone. Full, ripe, and voluptuous with some stuffing. An aggressive merlot. Only from the agent, and well priced for restaurants and clubs. -La Tunella L’Arcione 2000 Veneto Friuli, $27.95: initially, good Italianate bitter-sour quality from cherries and chocolate tones, but smooths out on palate revealing full plumminess for the North American appeal. +924746 Vintages. More details are available through tasting@smallwinemakers.ca or 416-463-7178. As a quality wine event, this one rated an 8.4 out of 10. PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH (SEPTEMBER, 2004) Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2002 VQA, +981159, $28: a gold medal winner, and brilliant all the way. BF, ML, aged on lees for one year in ¾ French and balance US oak. Complex, should not be consumed early, keep five years past vintage for that rich lanolin feel. Angove’s Bear Crossing Chardonnay 2002 South Australia, +592758 General List, $11.95: all round crowd pleaser, soft and mouth-filling, tropical fruit and vanilla tones, butterscotch. The Little Penguin Chardonnay 2003 South Eastern Australia, +598904 General List, $10.95: soft and smooth, some wood feel and fruit, slightly less engaging than the Bear above, but cheaper by a buck. Angel’s Gate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Niagara, $11.05 per 375mL bottle: at 13% alcohol, this split gives a bit of a hot finish to ripe cassis and black fruit flavours, ready sooner rather than later. There is a companion Chardonnay half bottle. Great choices for restaurants and clubs. Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Cabernet Franc 2001 VQA, +981134, $40: another gold medal winner, unfiltered for more complexity, aged one year in 85% US oak, balance French, ML. Black fruit and some jam all the way, tight and tannic right now, but will be a winner in more than five years. Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 VQA, +981126, $40: unfiltered, aged one year in 60% French, balance US oak, ML. Seems more sweet and delicate than the franc, some chocolate, could be ready sooner than the franc, but give it at least four more years. Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Merlot 2001 VQA, +981142, $40: again, unfiltered, aged one year in 55% US oak, balance French, ML. Typical upfront fruit, should be approachable soon, some underbrush to complement the plums. Calvet Medoc 2001, +038208 General List, $13.95: a vin natural (close to organic), showing good consistency to the style, 12% alcohol. Tarapaca Reserva Carmenere 2002 Maipo Valley, Chile, +602375 General List, $11.95: chewy wine with some depth to the finish, good character for either sipping or food. Angove’s Bear Crossing Cabernet 70/Merlot 30 2002 South Australia, +592766 General List, $11.95: a whopping 13.6% alcohol, off-dry fruity feel. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR AUGUST 2004 ====================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com THURSDAY, AUGUST 5, 2004 – Tonight, we launched the Taste of the Danforth at Myth Restaurant. My role was to sample and taste a variety of Greek wines furnished by Dionysius, Rubaiyat, and Whitehall. But first a few words on the arcane setup. Rant on: Beer and flat water was served on the first floor, but the beer/water were of a type not sold at Myth. The bar was covered up, nothing could be ordered. Wines were poured upstairs. You could not bring beer upstairs, nor could you bring wine downstairs. There were two monitors (one at the top and one at the bottom of the stairs) to ensure that we followed this rule. There was a wine glass shortage so every time I went upstairs or downstairs, I showed my empty glass upside down. The launch was skedded for 5PM, with speeches at 6:15 (actually, 6:33, finishing after 7 PM). Food, brought in at room temperature from participating restaurants, was distributed throughout the downstairs. After being chased away at 5:30 for eating food, I was told that no food was to be consumed until after the speeches. So we could not eat until after 7 PM, and some people had arrived before 5. By chow time – two hours later – some people were badly in need of a food platform in their tummies. So we ate old food, and some people ate rather quickly. I stayed away from anything with milk or eggs. Some of the food (mostly Greek, but also Swiss Chalet, Indian subcontinent, Oriental, Italian) may have started out okay but ended up soggy and unappealing. It was also a hot night inside—the doors were open. As readers know, I am never critical of venues – just wines. But this time, there might have been problems with lukewarm food and unfooded drinking. Now, if all of this was the result of alcohol regulations, then what is the government up to? I had also heard that the importers of Greek wines tried, about 2 and a half years ago, to get Vintages to order some Greek wines for a profile in August 2004, to be released on August 7 in time for showing through the Athens Olympics….Well, the story goes that Vintages worked on it, and now the Greek wines will come out August 2005, next year. Yet they had plenty of time….Rant off. Here are some notes of the wines tasted (unfortunately, to compound the waywardness of the evening, Whitehall’s wines did not arrive: they had to make do with just one Boutari red General Listing)… -Savatiano Papagiannakos 2003 ($14.25 from Dionysius 416-223-6567) showed a rich bouquet for a white, with a slightly tartish finish. -Papagiannakos Red 2000 ($15.95 Dionysius) was a blend of Nemea St.George and Cabernet Sauvignon, lots of body, smooth, plump. -Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Papagiannakos ($21.95 Dionysius) was aged for a year in oak, 12% alcohol, medium fruit but with an off-dry feel to the finish. Dionysius also had its Vin de Crete Red and White, Kouros Patras, and Kouros Nemea. Rubiyat (416-462-1577) had the widest selection: -Rogostamo 2002 ($23) was all chardonnay and organic, ripe and fruity in a New World style. -Katogi Averoff White 2002 ($18.50) was an aromatic blend of roditis and chardonnay. -Meliasto 2001 Domaine Spiropoulos ($13.50) was an organic rose of strawberry tones. This was at the recent Young Winemakers function. -Katogi Averoff Red 2001 ($21) was a cabernet sauvignon and agiorgitiko blend from Mt. Pindos, made up in oak barrels. It needed food (ooops, that was downstairs, and I didn’t have the heart to plow through a ravenous crowd to get more lukewarm food to lug upstairs with my inverted wine glass) -Red Stag 2000 Domaine Spiropoulos ($17.10) was a heavy-heavy robust wine made from the agiorgitiko grape. It was aged a year, and showed some sweet wood fruit. -Semeli Nemea 2001 ($14.95) was also from the agiorgitiko grape. It was austere, sort of papery like grenache, a keeper. As a quality event, the whole thing rates a 4/10. For the wine tasting part, I was glad I went. We need more exposure to Greek wines… TUESDAY, AUGUST 10, 2004 – These are my favourite types of wine tasting – sitting down with an agent/supplier/winemaker in somebody’s home. Today, it was at Alain Laliberte (Crus et Saveurs) on Old Mill Road. He had a meeting with a new agency, wineonline.ca (service@wineonline.ca 416-461-0894) set up in May of this year. Aaron Bick was on hand to guide us through the portfolio. Alain provided the setup plus some blind samples to open and close the affair, along with treats such as shrimp cakes, chicken skewers, lamb skewers, and shrimp cocktails. His blind wines, all phenomenal and rarely guessed at included a Tenuta Olim Bauda Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2000 ($45), a meaty well-aged Clos La Coutale 1997 Cahors ($13.45 SAQ in 2000), and a full-bodied, fruity Chateau Meyney 1991 St.Estephe ($26 SAQ). Bick tries to offer wineonline.ca wines to private non-licensee customers at retail, with a $5 delivery charge under $600. Wines are by the case, of course, and he wants to bring in mainly six packs that are affordable. Right now he has Burgundy, Rhone, Southern Tuscany and Valtellina. Certainly the Italian areas are under-represented in Ontario, and I was looking forward to the tasting. Here are some notes: -2001 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc Cornu Camus ($25.50): green apple, 100% chardonnay, a year in oak but not much wood showing. -2001 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge Cornu Camus ($24.75): pinot noir driven (sourish cherries, underbrush) leading to a tight finish. Much better with food, entry level. -2001 Chambolle-Musigny Village Hudelot-Noellat ($58.75): more intense nose, juice of cranberry and sour cherry, soft on mid-palate, tartish finish. -2001 Nuits St.Georges Premier Cru Les Murgers Hudelot-Noellat ($79): 13.5% alcohol, low acid except on the long finish, fruity throughout, unfiltered wine. -2001 Plan Pegau Domaine du Pegau ($16.50): Vin de Table, no region specified, producer says 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% mourvedre, but that can vary from vintage to vintage. Some anise, full flavours, aged in wood for six months before bottling unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Nice value. -2000 Cairanne Ferraud Brunel ($24.75): blueberry and strawberry jam, sweet baked nose, lots of grenache character. -1999 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Pegau ($64.75): unfortunately, this was the last bottle. A different year will be coming soon. Juicy, grenache based (75%) with some syrah (20%). Long length and finish, persistent, even voluptuous. -2002 Rosso di Valtellina Casa Vinicola Aldo Rainoldi ($28.75 magnum 1.5L): 2003 is also available, we tasted the 2002. Some nebbiolo flavours, sweet cherry tones. 70% nebbiolo. -2000 Valtellina Superiore “Inferno” Aldo Rainoldi ($28.75): sweet on mid-palate, pruney finish. 95% nebbiolo. Great substitute for a Barbaresco, matures faster, -2000 Sassella Riserva Aldo Rainoldi ($43.84): top-notch. Great leathery nose, some dust, soft on initial entry to palate, suggestive of cheese. -2000 Sfursat Fruttaio Ca Rizzeiri Aldo Rainoldi ($78.85): 14.5% alcohol. Done up in Amarone fashion, with dried grapes. Sfursat has been a personal favourite of mine for years, ever since the 1978 vintage. Leather, hazelnuts, coffee, cocoa. -2003 Morellino Di Scansano Fatt. Le Pupille Tuscany ($26.75): an underrated area, full of potential. Sangiovese nose, some body and chocolate, plummy, baked almonds, black cherries, juicy with finishing tannins for food. Very accessible. A surprise of the tasting, and good value for something new. -2001 Saffredi Elisabetta Geppetti IGT Fatt. Le Pupille ($119): only 20 cases, but at this price it will sell over a period of time. Broad fruit, dense extract, filled with structure. Very suggestive of North American, Californian blockbusters. Will need time for accessibility. SuperTuscan with 50% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, and 15% alicante. As a quality event, this one rates an 8.8/10. SUNDAY, AUGUST 15, 2004 -- There was a triple celebration of sorts tonight at Um No Mundo restaurant (Yonge and Sheppard). It was the tenth anniversary of Freedom South Africa (1994-2004) [in a remarkable coincidence, the National Party which created apartheid joined the African National Congress party last week, effectively disbanding], it was the tenth anniversary of Wineworld as an importing agency, and it was the tenth anniversary of Delheim wines' availability in Canada. So it was up the South African Wine Society to bring it all together to celebrate. It was their 10th anniversary too, since they were founded May 3, 1994. Their August dinner at Um No Mundo featured a wide variety of new and old Delheim wines, and even a "future" wine with Sperling and Sperling Delheim Pinotage Rose 2004. The story: a few years back, Anne Sperling (winemaker at Malivoire) had met Nora Sperling-Thiel (owner of Delheim) and , after establishing that they were not related, decided to continue a relationship by making a wine at Delheim. So Anne created a pinotage rose at Delheim, which will be bottled in November 2004 and made available soon after in 2005. There will be one major difference: the normal rose is made with pinotage and some added muscat for fruity flavour. Anne made hers from 100% pinotage, and one could certainly tell the difference between the two. The tank sample we had featured a harder edge and some length to the finish, making it a great aperitif or first course food wine. The Pinotage Rose 2003 (the one with some muscat) is at Vintages (+721670, $11.95) and it was needed to fight off some heat from the appetizers (chicken satay with BBQ sauce) and sharpness from the herring on toast points. Nora Sperling-Thiel discussed the various wines that accompanied dinner; she had brought some special wines with her. Neil Fortes of Wineworld spoke about his company and its success in Canada. Invited guests included Anne Sperling, Peter Gamble, some media types, and LCBO. Before dinner (but after the appetizers), the cast from Umoja (the hit musical from South Africa playing at the Elgin) arrived after their 3 PM matinee, about two dozen singers and dancers. They gave a short sample, actually about five songs, from the show, and of course we were all thrilled. Many in the SAWS had already seen the show, or were about to... The formal dinner began with baby arugula, mango, and red onion salad, accompanied by Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (+927509, $12.95), a plump version with very assertive flavours, nicely balancing the onion and mango. The seafood course was a seared tuna tataki, green beans, dried apricots, toasted pumpkin seeds, cherry tomatoes, accompanied by Merlot 2001 ($18.95 licensee, consignment). The wine was 13.5%, jammy, full nose, aggressive with some finishing tannins which completely disappeared with the soy-sesame dominated tataki. Maybe a more dominating red could have been useful. The next course was an unusual elk babootie with sambals, chutney, and yellow rice. Babooties are usually made with lamb, maybe beef, and eggs and nuts, and they are hot (curried and temperature). This was neither spicy nor serving hot, which was fine with me since it came with a 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, a vintage with the worst drought in 40 years, a difficult vintage. In fact, the CSR was made mainly because they did not make a 1994 Grand Reserve that year. My first sample was on the decline, a good old style almost-bordeaux, a "goutte anglaise", and difficult to match with anything except roast beef. I requested another sample, and it was bright, maturing well, and in a steady state that matched the elk. The main course was oven roasted lamb rack with braised purple cabbage and mashed potatoes. Just before it arrived, we each got three samples of Delheim's Grand Reserve: 1995, 1998, and 2001. The 2000 is on consignment from admin@wineworldimporters.com or www.wineworldimporters.com or 416-487-7147, at $30.95 licensee price. The style is Bordeaux, with cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the blend which varies from year to year. For example, the 1995 had 77% cab and 13% merlot, plus 10% back blended from 1996 vintage. The 1998 had a 94- 6 split, while the 2001 was a 98-2 blend. The 1995 was fruity in a definite Bordeaux-style, ready now, and great with the simple lamb. The 1998 was still tannic, but in a soft Oz style, better for sipping at this point. The 2001 was still young but approachable. With dessert (zabaglione and fresh berries) we had a Gewurztraminer 2003 ($16.50 licensee by consignment) followed by a 1994 Edelspatz, a blend of riesling, muscat and bukettraube, packaged in the half-bottle as a sweetie at 12.5%. It was candied marmalade, slightly bitter finish. The Gewurztraminer at 14% started with a perfumed nose, and off-dry palate, and then finished with a bitter thought. It became slightly more bitter with the egg yolks and berries, which, together with the edge of the Edelspatz, was very welcomed as a bittering agent would be at this point in the meal. The next major function at Um No Mundo is an Australian Wine Tasting on Sept 21, with Heathfield Wines. Thanks to the executive of the South African Wine Society for a great program...For more details about the SAWS, go to www.southafricanwinesociety.com . Or sawsinfo@rogers.com 905-762-9161. Their next event is a wine and food matcher at Tasting Rooms, September 29, followed by the South African Wine show on November 8 and a Christmas Dinner at UT Faculty Club December 2 (check out all the Group of Seven stuff there)... As a quality wine-food event, the evening rates a 9/10. THURSDAY, AUGUST 19, 2004 – The annual Summer Bin End dinner for the Ontario Wine Society took place at Tasting Rooms. As this event exhausted their current inventory, this might have been the last such dinner for some time. The great weather allowed us to sit, drink, and eat on the patio. The tasting menu allowed for all kinds of wine, from bone dry to off-dry, from light red to heavy red – so long as it was from Ontario. The menu went from halibut tempura on a bed of greens to a grilled Alberta beef tenderloin (peppercorn sauced), a grilled lamb rack chop (port glazed), a braised duck breast (orange-cranberry sauced), to crème brulee. With dessert we had a range of late Harvest and Icewines. As always, the whole affair was ably managed by the OWS Executive led by Robert Moore, chief organizer. Here are some brief notes. There were two dozen reception wines (all single bottles), plus two white wines per table of eight, followed by three red wines per table of eight and two stickies. Of course, I did my best to try everything, but it was a bit overwhelming. I worked my way through the Stoney Creek Chardonnay Reserve 1998 (oaky, oily) and the Pellers Founders Chardonnay Sur Lie 1997 (probably the best wine of the night). There was the Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve 2002, the Chateau des Charmes Viognier 1999, the Peller Muscat 2000, Southbrook Pinot Gris 1998, Jackson Triggs Chardonnay 2000, Harbour Estates Gewurztraminer 1999, and the Legends Riesling Semi-Dry 2002 – all of these I enjoyed, they were holding up rather well. With dinner, our table got excited about the Reif Gewurztraminer 1999 and the Jackson Triggs Deloraine Chardonnay 2001. The glasses were emptied rather quickly in advance of the onslaught of meat. We cross-tasted three wines with the three meats, but reached no conclusions. Peninsula Ridge Merlot-Cabernet Reserve 2000 was felt not ready, the Crown Bench Beamsville Bench 1999 was mostly merlot (soft, fruity, developing well at 12.5%), and the Pillitteri Cabernet Franc 2000 was its usual leafy award-winning self. With the crème brulee there was a Henry of Pelham Late Harvest Riesling 1998, but I never caught the Icewine, never had a chance to taste it. For more details about the Ontario Wine Society, visit www.ontariowinesociety.com, or call 416-964-3341. As a quality event, this one rates a 9/10 for ambience, people, and sunshine… WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 25, 2004 – Montirius was the showcased wine today at Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar. The lunch was pulled together through Leo Baduria of Portfolio Wines and Consignment Manager for Diamond Estates (416-488-4922). We began with a Cuvee Etienne Malis Cotes du Roussillon 2003 Rose (13% alcohol, $13.95, consignment, 20 cases left) from Diamond Estates consignment warehouse. It was a light and fruity, grenache-based, standup wine. The occasion was to celebrate the Montirius estate wines. Eric and Chris Saurel were visiting Quebec and Ontario with their three children, and they stopped off in Toronto for a spot of promotion. They control the day-to-day winemaking of this Rhone estate (north-eastern edge of Chateauneuf-du-Pape), featuring Vacqueyras and Gigondas. The estate is run under biodynamic principles, and contains quite a few old vines going back to 1925. With an assortment of apps at JK (chicken, pork, beef, cheeses, fries, etc.) we cross-tasted a 2001 Vacqueyras (70/30 grenache/syrah) with its black fruit, some anise and orange tones, terroir dust and meaty. The 2000 in Vintages was $21.95, and so will be the 2001 when it arrives. The 2002 Gigondas ($29.95 for the 2000, price to be maintained) was plummy and delicious, black olive, a great price for the year. It was 80/20 grenache and mourvedre. The entire production of 2001 was snapped up by British Airways. The 2001 Clos Montirius Vacqueyras was ripe, stylish, good syrah integration, more black olives. 50/50 grenache and syrah. It will be about $24.95. As a quality wine event, this one rates a 9.2/10. THURSDAY, AUGUST 26, 2004 – The Consulate General of Greece hosted a Greek wine tasting at his official residence in Rosedale, accompanied by the usual Greek food apps and mezes. The media turned out in droves; it was a crowded affair. The agents, who had previously lobbied the LCBO for getting Greek wines into Ontario in time for the Olympics but had to settle for August 2005 (if you can believe that), were out in full force. It was a bit awkward moving about, especially since two stands were right by the door to the garden. Availability and prices were sketchy, so call the importer. Here are some notes: -Antonopoulos Winery Adoli Ghis 2003, $16 from DinoVino 416-444-9545, 80/20 blend of chardonnay and indigenous lagorthi, crisp appetizer wine. -Babatzim Poliouchos Red, dominated by merlot flavours but with indigenous xynomavro in the blend, strong flavours, Proto Wines 416- 247-6957 -Boutari Kallisti 2002, $16.30, good detail from the all assyrtiko variety, nutty, aromatic, full-bodied. Whitehall 416-471-9144 -Boutari Agiorgitiko 2001, $12.75, clovey finish, dried plums and blackberries, from Nemea. Whitehall -Boutari Reserve Naoussa 1998, $16.30, aged two years in oak, complex dried fruit (figs) and oak, softening on the finish. Great wine for the evening. -Domaine Hatzimichalis Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, with some cab franc and merlot, made in North American style. Vergina, 416-386-1080. -Domaine Gerovassiliou 1998, $30 Vintages, made from syrah and merlot, aged a year in French oak. Full, ripe, balanced, food wine. Celebrated Cellars, 416-239-9463. -From Rubaiyat (416-462-1577), there were excellent wines, many tasted at the launch of Taste the Danforth. They showed Strofilia White 2002, $19.95 (fruity and developing), Domaine Kokotos Semeli Nemaea 2001, $16, and three organic wines (Domaine Spiropouls Porfyros 2002, $23.95, a blend of 50% agiogitiko, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% cabernet franc; Mantinia Oak Fermented 2003, $18.95, with indigenous grapes and lovely oak and fruit tones; and Meliasto 2003, $13.95, a decent bone dry rose with a great aftertaste. -From Dionysius (416-223-6567), there was a range of Kourtaki wines, including Retsina and Patras. There was also Domaine Lazaridis Amethystos Red 2002, $22.95, +724831, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and the local limnio, a very berryish wine. They also rep Papagiannakos Winery St.George/Cabernet, $17.35, full-bodied and smooth. As a quality wine event, this one rates a 7.5/10. MONDAY, AUGUST 30, 2004 – Larry Patterson and Richard Best offered me a ride down to Niagara to catch the Ontario Wine Society’s Niagara Chapter and their August tasting: Ontario Fruit Wines. The three of us began with a quick tour of the new Ridgepoint Winery. Then, we three stooges turned up early at the tasting venue, Featherstone Winery, to taste our way through their grape products first. David Johnson poured the wines and commented on each one. The wines are only available at the winery, and some have already sold out. Featherstone has been pesticide free since 1999, a remarkable accomplishment. Call 905-562- 1949 or www.featherstonewinery.ca Here are some notes: -Featherstone Vidal Blanc 2002, $10: made from 25 year old vines, now uprooted. Great soave complexity. All-purpose sipper or food wine, -Riesling Off-Dry 2002, $12: more 25 year old vines, vibrant, full- bodied and developing well, a sipper. Some lemon-lime character. -Gewurztraminer 2002, $16: light nose, good fruit (e.g., grapefruit), intense zest, spine body. Some Alsatian character in the finish. -Chardonnay French Oak 2002, $17: the bargain wine of the tasting, very rich and fruity, long length, great Ontario chardonnay. -Chardonnay Canadian Oak 2002, $24: more wood tones, some orange fruit and more demanding fruit on the finish. North American spiciness from the oak, not subdued. -Gamay 2001, $12: good fruit, some bell peppers, deep and dramatic colour and body, black fruit tones. Not a typical Ontario gamay. -Gamay Noir 2003, $19: full big flavours, limited production. -Cabernet Franc 2002, $17: multiple medal winner (either gold or silver), has everything (chocolate, black pepper, mint, vanilla, cloves). Aged six months in US oak. -Cherry Barrel Cabernet Franc 2002, $30: only 23 cases, from one Ontario cherry wood barrel. Fruity, soft, approachable, not cherry-like at all, a bit of sour complexity. Other wines tasted included a Merlot 2002, a Vidal Select Late Harvest 2002, and Vidal Icewine 2002. Plus the Cranberry, in the fruit wine tasting… Ontario has over 20 wineries either specializing or producing significant amounts of wine made from fruit other than grapes. The tasting this night was al fresco on the Featherstone verandah, followed by a pile of nibbles (game sausage, smoked salmon, dips, cheeses, fruit, breads, etc.). We could certainly have the opportunity to taste and try the fruit wines with the food, to pair them off. We had ten wines, but they were all across the map. We tasted eight wines, all made from different fruits, some light and crisp, some heavy and rich, some dry, some sweet, some meant for apps while others were meant for desserts. This was the major problem with this tasting: too many varieties. It was almost like tasting different kinds of grape varieties. There are two major difficulties with fruit wines. To the general public, the consumers do not know much about what they will taste like. Many are overly sweet, but many are spot on. But the labels do not do a good job in explaining what is inside. To me, there is a second problem: all fruit wines are monochromatic in taste sensation. The black currant wine taste like black currant; the apricot wine tastes like apricot. Grape wines can have many different expressions, and wine lovers revel in these expressions. Yet I still love fruit wines for what they are, a large dollop (sweet or dry) of a particularly kind of fruit taste. Dry apple wine usually comes closest to white grape wines, and thus they are my favourite fruit wines. Tonight, there was a small panel addressing the issues of fruit wines. Jim Warren of Fruit Wines of Ontario spoke on QC certification levels; David Johnson of Featherstone spoke on how he made his cranberry wine. Paul Lizak from Legends spoke on the difference between making fruit wines and making grape wines; and Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farms spoke on being the only totally fruit winery in Niagara. On to the wines: -Downey’s Estate Gooseberry, $12.95: intense gooseberry, like a soft bodied sauvignon blanc without the acid. -Featherstone Cranberry, $14: off-dry, good length, minty. -Applewood Winery Madrigal Mead, $12.95: like a sparkling sauternes. -Birtch Farms Red Currant Apple, $14.95: typical of red currant, fleshed out with apple, best dry red here. -Legends Goldrich Apricot, $11.50: nice apricot tones, but lacked a bit of body. Quaffable white. -Sunnybrook Farm Black Raspberry, $22.95: a bit pricey, but the fruit costs a lot! Intense black raspberry flavours. Off-sweet, the first of three sweeties. -Southbrook Farm Framboise, $14.95 half-bottle: fortified fruit, intense raspberry flavours, serve on ice cream. -Archibald Orchards Spiced Winter Apple, $16.95 half-bottle. Designed to get me in the mood for Christmas, heavily spiced and warm inside. For more details about the Niagara Chapter, call 905-685-7623. As a quality wine event, this one rates an 8.8/10. PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH OF AUGUST, 2004 -Chardonnay Reserve 1999 (Niagara, Reif Estate), $14.95, +252163 General: not quite sure why this is released (1999? There is also a Strewn 1999 Chardonnay) but it is interesting to taste a five-year-old Ontario chardonnay. 14% alcohol, some wood and fruit in balance, persistence and light perfume on the palate. -Chardonnay 2002 “Spires” (Australia, Barossa Valley Estates), $15.95, +598136 General: the field is a little crowded at this price level, but here is another full and ripe wine, with some wood and fruit integration. -Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Black Label (SE Australia, McGuigan), $11.15, +633008 General: good fruit and herbs in the Oz style, not the austerity of New Zealand, well-priced as a quaffer or first course (11.5% alcohol) -Trius Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Niagara, Hillebrand), $14.95, +587956 General: shows plenty of black fruit and oak, somewhat tight at this point, needs time to resolve, but made to mature faster than previous vintages. -Trius Cabernet Franc 2002 (Niagara, Hillebrand), $14.95, +587964 General: at 12%, some leafy herbal notes distributed with oak and cassis, refreshing, better in a year. -Trius Merlot 2002 (Niagara, Hillebrand), $14.95, +587907 General: 13% alcohol, but soft and plush, with a definitive merlot finish, some wood tones, and ready soon. -King Fish Shiraz 2003 (California, Delicato), $9.95, +622845 General: Delicato already has a brisk selling California Shiraz but it wants to take on Yellow Tail from Australia in the shiraz sweepstakes. King Fish is trying for a whole line (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, white zinfandel: all in the Oz-like mold) in competition. The shiraz has no surprises. It all depends on pricepoint and – maybe – loyalties to a country. Now, if we could just get a cheap VQA wine from BC… WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JULY 2004 ==================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com TUESDAY, JULY 6, 2004 – Today was the unofficial Ontario launch of Broker’s Premium London Dry Gin (+650465, $22.95 for 700mL; next time it will be 750mL and about a dollar more), released to the public June 12 at Vintages. Flavoured with ten zesty botanicals (juniper, of course, plus citrus and coriander, et al), this gin was first produced in 2000, using a single copper pot still (outside Birmingham) dating from 1903. To support the campaign in Ontario, owners Martin and Andy Dawson spoke to the press at the Four Season’s Lobby Bar. A quarter of a million cases are made each year, merely a drop in the bucket for the major competitors Beefeater-Bombay-Tanqueray (and the domestic Gordon- Gilbey). Still, there is enough room to maneuver in Ontario, especially for a gin that is tasty enough to drink neat. This was appealing to me since I prefer most of my spirits to be straight: why ruin a good drink? It has won several recommendations and awards, including “Best Gin” in the USA in 2003 Spirits Awards in “Food and Wine” magazine. A marketing ploy is the plastic bowler hat atop the closure; the hat is symbolic of the London broker. So the tie-in is fortuitous. Deep, probing questioning by this reporter revealed that the company employs six full-time people (I was shown a picture) who were putting hats on the bottles BY HAND. I even suggested a line on the label: “hatted by hand”. This crew can put 150,000 hats on miniatures (yes, each miniature has a hat!) in just three days. And all facing in the right direction…To get your hat, with a bottle attached, try the agent Signature Wines & Spirits 905-815-8865 bbanyard@sympatico.ca As a quality event, it rates an 8 out of 10. THURSDAY, JULY 8, 2004 – The Smallwinemakers, Epna, and Capricorn agents held a mid-day preview tasting of their wines being released through Vintages in July, plus some consignment wines. This SWEC Wine Group tasting was held in the Smallwinemakers offices. It is anticipated to be the first of many monthly tastings. Here are some notes on my favourite wines (there were sixteen in all): -Margan Semillon 2002 Hunter Valley (Vintages, +961516, $13.95) was certainly affordable, but it took a long time to open up. Serve it not too chilled. Good Hunter character, with some lanolin, but needs more time in bottle. Lay it down. -Dog Point Chardonnay 2003 Marlborough (consignment, $35.60) was a carefully harmonious balance of wine and oak, showing a leanness for food. Reminded me of the Ontario cool climate Temkin-Paskus Chardonnay. -Domaine des Blagueurs Sirrah Syrah 2002 D’Oc (Vintages, +951848, $15.95) is 13% alcohol and screw capped. It is owned by Bonny Doon vineyards of California, but the wine is made in France and shipped here directly. Very good syrah from that region at that price. A quality drink for the rest of the summer. -Ca dei Frati Ronchedone 2001 IGT Lugana (consignment, $29.80) was a blend of sangiovese, marzemino, and cabernet sauvignon, ringing in at 14.5%, a bit too powerful for summer unless you have dynamic air conditioning. Full, delicious flavours and aromas, some wood tones that should make it appealing to the North American palate. -Margan Shiraz 2002 Hunter Valley (Vintages, +606731, $19.95) 14.5% alcohol, a burnt fudge nose but very much a Rhone-style syrah. -Te Mata “Woodthorpe” Cabernet Merlot 2002 Hawkes Bay (consignment, $25.50) was 53% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, and 13% franc. It was substantial, off-dry, a good sipper with food wine possibilities. 13.5% alcohol, nice price for this quality. -Z-52 Zinfandel 2001 Agnes Vineyard, Lodi (consignment, $28.85) was a highlight of the tasting. 15% alcohol, from old vines, dense black fruit, long engaging finish. Stuffing. And great for those heavy- heavies who want some power at Thanksgiving. Could take more aging, of course. For more details about these wines, or their principals, contact 416-463-7178 or tasting@smallwinemakers.ca As a quality event, it rates an 8.5 out of 10. WEDNESDAY, JULY 21, 2004 – Today at a lunch-launch, Bad Dog went into play. The event was held for the media and LCBO-types at the newish Niagara Street Café (opened three months ago with Chef Scott Pennock) and currently only open for dinner – it seats just over 40. The Case for Wine (416-467-1606) has introduced three wines with the Pays d’Oc designation, all showing good low yield fruit and nice aging, with some edge for food. Lloyd Evans and Terry Milne, the agency, had spent considerable time researching tastes, needs, names, vineyards in France, etc. They were involved in all decisions, and they now have three wines. They are Bad Dog White 2002 (a sauvignon blanc and chardonnay blend, 45-45 with 10% grenache blanc added) +597294, $12.35 General List; Bad Dog Red 2001 (a 45-45 syrah and cabernet sauvignon blend, with 10% merlot added) +597302, $12.35 General Listing; and Bad Dog Rose 2003 (a blend of grenache and syrah) +85898, $12.35 Consignment only. We tasted the wines before lunch and during. On balance, they work better with food, and that has been the aim of The case for Wine: to produce a Pays d’Oc for the meal. The Bad Dog Red had great fruit tempered by aging and the eight months in barrel. As a sipper, I enjoyed the Bad Dog Rose best: it was bone dry, and more in the white wine tasting mode. Bad Dog White was fruity with a full food- like complexity to the finish. Seven thousand cases of each (21K in all) were produced, for international distribution, all from the firm Maurel Vedeau Vineyards (www.maurelvedeau.com). But The Case for Wine came up with the Bad Dog concept, and they are going to run with it on a global basis. Check out www.baddogwine.com. For the lunch, we had mainly fried or oiled foods, which of course went well with the wines. We had samples of fish and chips, a home made ravioli with green vegetable ragout, crispy sweetbreads with pancetta, chicken thigh on a grilled tomato and mushroom salad, along with a vegetable and goat cheese stack and potato puffs. A superb match for the wines As a quality wine and food event, this one ranks a 9.2/10. SATURDAY, JULY 24, 2004 – Mid-morning, and off we (the press) go to the fund-raiser Fiesta Buckhorn, courtesy of Colio Winery (they provided a bus: thanks!) and the organizers of the “eighth annual celebration of fine wine, beer and cuisine”. The day was divided into segments. On the bus we sampled some renowned Canadian cheeses with Colio wines (Lily Blanc de Noirs Rose Sparkling, all pinot noir and all fabulous in taste, winner of an OWA Gold Medal in 2004, an unoaked Chardonnay 2002, $13.95 but unfortunately sold out, a Merlot Reserve 2002, $24.95, with jammy tones and upfront fruit, and a Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002, $24.95, equally jammy but better with the cheese). We arrived in Buckhorn, just 30 minutes north of Peterborough, by the opening 1 PM gun, and hit the ground running. Fiesta Buckhorn, ably directed by Debbi Crossen and Larry Patterson www.littlefatwino.com/fiesta.html, is in a park-like setting with one large main building and 11 pavilions, plus a large covered seating area among the trees (this time, with entertainment). There were over 90 exhibitors, including 50 Canadian wineries, nine local breweries, and 30 local restaurants and food outlets. It was a seven hour extravaganza, but we had to board a bus by 4:30, so our time was limited. My strategy was to try white wines, then red wines, fruit wines, and beers. Also some food with the wines…If time, I was to be available for an experts’ corner. The wine writers were running 30-minute seminars. My theme was how to do a show like Buckhorn in 30 minutes. I really pushed myself, but by 4 PM I had only tried white wines. I needed to attack the food, the red wines, the fruit wines, and the beers. Obviously, I couldn’t do it…For the food, I concentrated on local products (I ignored the tex-mex stuff). I devoured some great Kansas City BBQ ribs ($18.99 full rack) from Hot Belly Mama’s (378 George Street N., Peterborough) with a fine clovey taste – they went well with oaked Chardonnay. I had some equally fine Oz-style Big Bloke Ribs from the Barbie ($21.95) through Crocodile Bill’s Pub and Grill (Catalina Bay Resort, Buckhorn), which went well with red wine. The entire Fiesta is run by volunteers and the establishments, in aid of the Buckhorn Community Centre. Here are some wines I enjoyed: from Vineland, Chardonnay 2002 (unctuous), Angels Gate Chardonnay 2002, Willow Heights Chardonnay 2002 Sur Lie ($12.10), Stoney Ridge Chardonnay 2002 Kew Vineyard, Maleta Chardonnay 1999 (lees stirred monthly), Colio Cabernet Franc Rose 2002 (lots of fruit), Marynissen Gewurztraminer 2002 Off-Dry (11.3% alcohol), Lakeview Chardonnay Reserve 2002 ($24.95, 13.5% alcohol: delicious as a sipper or with food), Malivoire Pinot Gris 2003 (12.5% alcohol, full, voluptuous, lemons), Gewurztraminer 2002 Moira Vineyard (full, Alsatian-style), Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($12.95, 13% alcohol, drink young), Cave Spring Chardonnay 2002 Reserve ($12.95, 14% alcohol), Cave Spring Chardonnay 2000 CSV ($30), Thirty Bench Riesling 1999 (13% alcohol, aging nicely and developing a riesling character), Thirty Bench Chardonnay 1999 Reserve (14.9% alcohol, off-dry on palate and compelling), Cilento Riesling Brut 2000 (a sparkler with depth), Cilento Chardonnay Reserve 1999 (13.5%, clovey), Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2001 Silver Label (smooth, quality sipper), Inniskillin Pinot Gris 2002 (13.5%, screwtop, bone dry, best with food), Inniskillin Riesling Old Vines 2002 (12.5%, screwtop, fresh, great finish for food), Sumac Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (13.9%, herby tasting, hot finish, food). From amongst the reds, there was Stoney Ridge Meritage 2002 Jim Warren and Stoney Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Wiemer Reserve Library Edition. From the few fruit wines I had, I enjoyed Archibald’s Ida Red Oak Aged, bone-dry, wood tones, only $9.95. Our next segment on a crowded day was to visit a vineyard of Dr. Garry Humphreys, who is growing experimental vineyards. These are disease- resistant, cold-hardy vines that may allow viticulture to be extended to vast regions of Canada. The vines were planted largely in 2002, have never had any type of spray or chemical applied in any way, and many have a first small crop on them this year. There is also a small-scale (8-vine) successful light removable trellising system that has allowed Pinot Gris vines to survive -30C. winters and produce fruit since 2000 on this remarkable property, a good microclimate. Larry Patterson also arranged for a doctored wine tasting, a sort of “fool the experts”, in which fruit flavours were goosed up and unacceptable off-putting wines were made “acceptable”. Our last segment was a trip to Elmhirst’s Resort for a boat tour, a sampling of appetizers and desserts, a wine tasting, and a tour of their all-Canadian wine cellar. Most impressive. In the cellar we were joined by John Anthony from Le Vignoble Chapelle Ste. Agnes in Sutton, Quebec. The winery began production in 1998 with a first vintage for table wines. Now, with a bevy of three year old vines at the time, they are releasing a trio of sweeties. The first vintage for these is 2001. We tasted a Geisenheim Vendange Tardif 2001 (10.9% alcohol, late harvest, $34 for 200mL bottle), a Vidal Icewine 2001 (9.3%, good acid finish and length, $57 for 200mL bottle), and a Vidal Straw Wine (Vin de Paille) 2001 (9.6%, $66 for 200mL bottle). All wines were incredibly labour intensive, subject to the vagaries of the weather, etc. This results in higher prices. Needless to say, we were late in getting back to Toronto. As a quality wine and food event, this one rates a 9/10. THURSDAY, JULY 29, 2004 – The 2004 Niagara Wine and Food Classic called a press conference at the LCBO Summerhill store. This annual show, now in its third year, was announcing the lineup of chefs, food establishments, wine seminarians, and wineries. The NWFC actually had a press conference last year, but it was slated for the blackout day. Thus, last year’s press conference never happened. The 2004 NWFC has guest chefs presenting the “Ultimate Winemakers Dinner” slated for Saturday Sept. 11, 7:30 PM to midnight. At the media show, Susur Lee, Michael Bonacini, Mark Picone and Anna Olson each uncovered a sample of one of the courses that comprise the Winemakers Dinner. The ubiquitous Michael Fagan of the LCBO then discussed his wine pairing with each of the courses. Andy Brandt, CEO of LCBO, also gave a talk about the value of Ontario wines and wineries. Overall, the camera took up half the space and the speeches were overlong, but it was all made up for by the quality of the food and wine. The Cheese Boutique provided a whole pile of exotic cheeses from France and Quebec, goat-sheep-cow, blues and creams. Chateau des Charmes provided some wine (Riesling 2002, 12.5%, $10.95, +061499 GL, nicely off-dry), as did Vineland Estates (Cabernet Franc 2002, 12.9%, $13.05, +594127, rich, ripe and fruity) and EastDell (Summer Rose 2003, 12%, $10.05, +560243, hit the perfect spot on this warm day). The NWFC is an international celebration of wine and food, with tastings within a large tent just across from the Niagara Falls mist. There are vineyard and winery tours, wine seminars, cooking demos, many meals, and other goodies such as food sampling during tastings. The three day extravaganza is only $550 CDN plus GST, a bargain for Americans. This covers all food and wine, trips, seminars and demos. Accommodation and travel to the Classic is extra. One of the sponsors is Gourmet Magazine; Sara Moulton, Gourmet’s executive chef, will be attending for a demo. Others include Tony de Luca from Hillebrand and Michael Stadtlander. For more details, visit www.discoverniagara.com or email Gabriela Butera at eventplanner@niagarafallstourism.com As a quality wine and food event, this function rated an 8/10. NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH -William Fevre Chablis 2002 Champs Royaux, $18.90, +276436 GL: 12.5% alcohol, barrel aged, from older properties in the company’s portfolio of well-established vineyards. Very classy and elegant, long smooth finish, great as aperitif or first course. -Fetzer Pacific Bay Chardonnay 2002 California, $10.95, +606418 GL: hot wine, high alcohol (13.5%), tropical baked fruits, affordable. -Deakin Estate Chardonnay 2002 Victoria, $10.05, +588418 GL: another all-round crowd pleaser from the land of Oz, with balance of fruit and wood tones. But watch 14% alcohol, it grows on you… -Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2002 Niagara, $15.95 (Vintages and the Winery): 100% Chardonnay Clone 809, a full-bodied aromatic wine with a slight muscat character. Great for summer. -Chateau des Charmes Rose 2003 Cuvee d’Andree, Niagara, $12.95 (Winery now and Vintages in September): named in honour of Mme. Bosc, launched at Mother’s Day function. 12.5% alcohol. 40% gamay noir, 21% merlot, 18% cabernet sauvignon and 18% cabernet franc. Gold Medal Rose at the Ontario Wine Awards 2004. Terrific fruit (I was one of the rose judges; we had it blind, of course). Too bad it will not be widely available to the public through Vintages until September. But a good choice for Thanksgiving… -Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Extra Dry Gonzalez Byass Sherry, $15.60, +242669 GL: has been a summer standard for decades, especially refreshing with tapas, and only 15% alcohol. Great tang on the finish. -Trius Merlot 2002 Niagara (Hillebrand), $14.95, +587907 GL: 13%, dense, and a substantial food wine. Needs time to develop. -Jackson-Triggs Merlot 2001 Okanagan, $12.95, +543876 GL: from BC, soft, fruity, ready now (better later) but midweight. 13.7% alcohol. -Bouchard Pere et Fils Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2002 La Vignee, $16.20, +605667 GL: 12.5% alcohol, an entry-level red burgundy at this price, but it shows a bit of everything that burgundy is known for. Modest finish. -Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot 2002 Niagara, $14.25 (Winery and Air Canada Executive First Service): ripe and fruity, with tannic undertones, might be more ready by Christmas. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JUNE 2004 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com TUESDAY, JUNE 1, 2004 – This month opened with a bang: Chateau Latour arrived in town, after an absence of some years. The new team, under the president Frederic Engerer, took over the estate in November 1998. 1999 was the first vintage for the new team. There have been many changes at the property, including more dense plantings. Other changes reflect ecological activities, such as planting barley between the vines to rejuvenate the earth (apparently, barley returns more to the earth than it takes). There is good cork control in the lab, with almost every cork being personally inspected. M. Engerer took us through all the changes, adding comments along the way (slight label changes, fewer data on the front label and more on the back label, they don’t use bar codes, they have a 20 year window for selling back vintages) before leading us in a tasting of 1999, 2000, 2001 plus the Forts de Latour 2000 (second label). The Forts are based on Grand Vin culls, three separate vineyard plots, and youngish vines, with more new wood treatment and a higher proportion of merlot. Extremely young vines are bottled separately as a generic Pauillac. Out of 16,000 cases total Grand Vin, maybe 500 are shipped to Canada. There will be a special release next year through the LCBO and SAQ (which is why the Latour people were in Toronto and Montreal). The quartet from Latour stayed at the Park Hyatt, and of course did not bring corkscrews with them because of the post 9/11 security rules. Thus they had to use the pathetic wing corkscrews supplied by the hotel. If I had had a camera with me, there would be a great shot of M.Engerer wrestling with the long long Latour cork, eventually pulling out all four corks with the bottles between his knees….Here are some notes, but of course the wine changes over time and even in the glass from minute to minute: Forts de Latour 2000 – plenty of sun and light that year without the heat. Forts spends less time in oak than the Grand Vin. Deep purple, dense but young elegance on nose, hotly alcoholic but dissipates, full rich palate leading to a modest finish. Made in a great vintage, drinkable for 20 more years but ready soonish. Chateau Latour 1999 – good summer, difficult September. Elegant, almost wispy nose, slight cherries, vanilla tones, some hotness from the alcohol, smooth and soft on palate, but medium finish. Shy, needing time to open. Chateau Latour 2000 – shy nose, great quality on palate, soft and ready soonish? moderating tannins but closed components. Chateau Latour 2001 – difficult summer, good September (opposite of 1999). Shy nose again, smooth palate, purity of tones, good coating on palate, spicy finish, lower tannins. More feminine but lean and tense, vibrant. I wished I could have retasted these wines in a few hours, but by noon we all had to leave. For more details about the wines and their availability, contact Peggy Plouhinec plouhinecpeggy@yahoo.fr. As a quality event, it rates a 9/10. TUESDAY, JUNE 1, 2004 – Off to the second big tasting of the day, a look at some quality Greek wines. Dinos Vino (Dino Souchleris) at dinosvino@hotmail.com put on an afternoon seminar for the LCBO product consultants, at the Scrivener Square store. After the presentation, the wine media slipped in to taste the bottles. There were red, white, and dessert wines, a sparkler, and a distilled spirit. Most of the wines were coming into the marketplace on consignment, others were already here. Tasting conditions were a little chaotic, but what else is new? From what I was able to taste, I enjoyed the following…. -Katogi & Strofilia Traminer Averoff 2003, $15.50, dry traminer mode, good body and good finish. -Domaine Sigalas Santorini Sigala 2003, $19, made from the white assyrtiko grape, was assertively off dry, fruity, developing well but a little pricey in this market. -Evharis Estate Assyrtiko 2002, $17, from the same grape, was better priced, had some bottle age, and some French oak showing. -Wine Art Estate Idisma Drios Chardonnay 2003 from the Drama, $15, had full chardonnay textures, some wood, concentrated flavours, and finished off with cloves. -Tsantali Metohi 2000 from Macedonia, $18, with 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% limnio, soft, fruity, North American in appeal and taste style. -Antonopoulos Vertzami Cabernet Franc 2000, $19, from Achaia, was herby but with good aged fruit. -Tsantali Rapsani Reserve 1999, $16, from Thessaly and from indigenous grapes, matured three years, like a Rhone syrah (black fruit, pepper, and fig). Best wine of the show. -Evharis Estate Syrah 2002, $23 from Attica, was well made but too pricey for this market. As a quality event, it rates a 7/10. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 2, 2004 – Anonymus Fine Wines and Savour Flavour jointly put on a “Hungarian Rhapsody” displaying modern-style Hungarian wines with upscale global cuisine. There was a cooking demonstration with Savour’s chef Tonia Wilson, former head chef at the Canadian Embassy in Rome, followed by a short food and wine compatibility presentation by both Savour sommelier Zoltan Szabo and Frida Emri the agent behind Anonymus. Five wines accompanied five large sized courses, and there was commentary before, during and after each course’s demo and eating, with plenty of scope for questions and answers. It was an extremely informative night, beginning at 6:30 and ending almost at 11. About 16 or so people pay $100 a head (includes taxes and gratuities), for the demo-meal at the Miele Kitchen Studio in a Designers Walk Building. You never know who is going to turn up for this bargain; I sat with Jean Pierre Colas, the winemaker at Peninsula Ridge. We had a running commentary on the wines, but entre nous. The Rhapsody was repeated several times in June and July, with slightly different foods and wines. June 2 was the first date, followed by June 3 and 16. For July, the dates are July, 7, 8, 14 and 15. There will be others with this combo, and both Anonymous and Savour do this type of thing with other agents and event planners. For more details on meals and wines via Savour (and interactive classes or tours), try zoltan@savourflavour.com (416-782-0845) or for quality Hungarian wines, try frida.emri@anonymuswines.com (416-535-1146). Websites: www.anonymus.com and www.savourflavour.com We started with a Bock Rose 2003, from Villany ($18) and made with six grapes, such as the cabernet family and pinot noir. It was fresh, with some added carbonation to give it a spritz. Long length, good patio wine that also went well with the appetizer (smoked salmon on red pepper corn cake). Tonia also provided recipes for each course, and commented on substitutions and prep timings. A risotto course came next, made with quail off the bone, mushrooms, peas and double-smoked bacon. This was an excellent dish, and you can substitute sausage or dark chicken meat for the quail (man, is that ever labour-intensive!). Frida and Zoltan came up with Polgar Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $25, immediately reminiscent of northern Italy’s cabernets (fruit intensity, not too strong, little wood, medium finish, slightly herby) and thus perfectly matched to the risotto. The other wine with this dish was the Vesztergombi Merlot 2000, $31.95, one of the best merlots in Hungary (dense, dark, wood tones from French oak, rich black fruit, slightly soft finish). Our table agreed that it went better with the risotto than the cabernet did. Then Vesztergombi Bikaver (Bull’s Blood) 2000, $29.95, came out. This is Bull’s Blood as it should be in its original form, a Bordeaux-like blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and kadarka (substituting for the cabernet franc). It was to accompany a richly sauced rack of lamb (thyme and lemon crusted, Earl Grey tea and berry sauce). The Bull was heavy-heavy. Frida also whipped out her Gere Kopar 2000 Villany Cuvee, $78, densely structured cabernet family. So we ended up with samples of four wines to try against the lamb (the Polgar, the two Vesztergombi, and the Gere). Now we’re talking – that’s what wine and food matching is all about, continual crossing of wines and foods, to see what goes with what. The Bikaver won my heart with the lamb, principally because of the sweet peppers and raisins in the finish. The Gere was not ready. We took a break with a goat cheese salad, against which I finished off the red wines. For dessert, we had a citrus cream cheese strudel with strawberries, and a glass of Grof Degenfeld Muscat Lunel 2003, from the Tokaj region ($20). The muscat character shone, of course, and it went well with most of the dessert (the cream cheese, the berries). It was a full-bodied wine, almost 13% alcohol, and just what we needed to sip. The evening was extremely sociable, with chatter from table to table about the wines and foods. As a quality event, it ranks a 9/10. THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 – The gods obviously love June 3: why else would there be about a dozen wine events today???? Careful planning led me to the Spanish Gusto event (see below), the Burgundy tasting, and the surprising two different Ontario events. I had to skip some dinners and a French aperitif tasting. GustoSpain was held at Hart House, from 10AM through 6PM. It was the focal event of the Spanish Gastronomic Week in Toronto. Some companies were looking for distribution in Canada, others were looking for wider distribution, and still others were promoting their existing wares. So the exhibit was mainly foods, such as olives, olive oil, sauces and vegetables, herring roe, cheeses, seafood preps, Serrano hams, saffron, sherry vinegars, anchovies, jams, capers, asparagus, mushrooms, artichokes, etc. Obviously the point was to network. There were some sparkling wines (Codorniu Brut, Segura Viudas 2001) and sherries to try. As well, one importer – Martin Lacey – brought his stock of Spanish wines to try. This included a range of wines not yet on the market: Finca Antigua from Bod.Martinez Bujanda, from their new winery in La Mancha. The range is priced about $12 – 15, and includes well- made tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, a Crianza blend of cabernet, merlot and tempranillo, and a reserve level that also incorporates some syrah. There was also their Finca Valpiedra Rioja ($30), a new style that should appeal to North Americans, with a very long delivery of cherries and vanilla tones. Other wines for sampling included the Conde de Valdemar Reserva 1998 ($20.95 Vintages, a bargain, so grab it), the Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000 ($13.95 General List, 15 months in oak), and the Candidato Oro 1999 ($7.95 General List). All of the foods and wines were available for sampling, and along with a luncheon buffet, formed the exhibit for the day. Added value were three seminars: at 11AM, there was a presentation on Spanish olive oil types, at 2:30, Kathy Guidi led us on a presentation of Spanish cheeses, and at 4:30 came the highlight – a seminar on Serrano ham led by Michael Tkaczuk and Isabel Eizmendi, who have their own importing company, Serrano Imports. They plan to bring in three packages this August: the whole leg with the bone, the jamon off the bone, and (in the spring, but earlier if possible), and a pre-sliced pack of six or so huge slices for consumers to buy off the shelf. Salt curing makes the ham lose about one-third of its mass. Serrano hams should be available at better restaurants everywhere… As a quality event, it rates an 8/10. THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 – Thanks to a last minute ride, I cleared Spain for Burgundy at JK Wine Bar on Church. This is Woodman Wines and Spirits annual Bouchard Pere & Fils tasting, along with William Fevre from Chablis. The vintage was 2002. Luc Bouchard was pouring, as well as Didier Seguier. Fevre’s winemaker. Both companies are owned by Henriot. The mid-day trade tasting was followed by an extremely rich winemaker’s dinner at JK later that night. In the afternoon, we had 35 village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru wines. Many more wines were available for ordering by the six-bottle case. Also available for tasting were the General Listed Macon Lugny, Petit Chablis, Pouilly- Fuisse (I thought the 2003 was phenomenal, for $26.95, soon to be in stores), Macon Superieur Rouge, and Chablis Champs Royaux. For more details, try info@woodmanwinesandspirits.com or www.woodmanwinesandspirits.com or 416-767-5144. Here are some notes on what I enjoyed: -William Fevre Les Lys 1er Cru 2002, $45: was ripe and full, with steely character and depth. There was good fruit in all the Chablis. The Beauroy 1er Cru and the Montmains 1er Cru were also available at $45. -Bouchard Pere Beaune Clos St.Landry 2002, $64, showed a complex nose and was developing well. The Montagny 1er Cru 2002 was a good value wine at $28. The Meursaults were best overall, in terms of quality- price ratios. The basic 2002 was $58, with some limes and depth, mouth coating warmth and also on the finish. The more expensive Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru 2002 ($92) showed some anise, stunning depth of flavours on the back palate, and a long, long finish. I also enjoyed the Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2002 ($269) and the more affordable Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2002 ($136), although I blanched at the price of the Montrachet Grad Cru 2002 ($500). -Bouchard Pere Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins 2002, $79, was deep, dark, tannic with wood spices on the finish, my favourite red of the tasting. The best red in terms of quality-price affordability was Beaune de Chateau 1er Cru 2002, $45, with its consistency through the palate and a long finish. The Beaune Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 1er Cru 2002, $96, has always been a personal favourite in past vintages, with its full extractive, off-dry but long length. The Chambertin Grand Cru 2002, $242, was voluptuous, full and ripe. I also thought the Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru 2002, $71, was delightful. As a quality event, it rates an 8/10. THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 – The Ontario Wine Awards had booked into the newly opened Miller Tavern in Hogg’s Hollow; the date was announced months ago. It was originally to be a consumer show, running from 6:30 PM, with a media/lcbo component at 5:30, segueing into the main show. The original intent was to show only OWA medal winners to potential purchasers. Suddenly, it opened up to a Wine Council of Ontario now presenting “the first annual best Wines of Ontario tasting for media and trade professionals”. The afternoon show ran from 2 PM to 4:30 PM, and featured wines from WCO members (whether they won any awards or not). Thus, some wineries in the afternoon show were not at the evening show. And some wineries in the evening were not WCO members, so they were not in the afternoon show. Media who wanted to taste both Ontario wines and Ontario Wine Award 2004 winners had to be at BOTH shows, and they had to read the tasting programs very carefully in order to taste the wines in the afternoon, which were NOT appearing that night, even from the same winery. It was a bit confusing. And there was a TWO hour period of closing between events. There was at least one trade person who turned up at 5:30 PM, the former starting time, and he was SOL. If I had had a car, I could have whipped down to the French aperitif tasting on King Street West. Jean-Pierre Colas, winemaker at Peninsula Ridge, had the right idea. He was only around for the WCO event, and then left to go home via the aperitif tasting. At any rate, some Ontario wineries (those around for the evening) were kind enough to leave opened bottles out for me to taste. I worked my way through 5:30PM, and then chatted up some wine people. By 6:30 I was ready to roll again…The Wine Council of Ontario represents 63 Ontario winery properties that account for 98% of Ontario wine production. At the afternoon show, there were more than 130 VQA wines from 35 producers. More than half of the wines had won an award, not necessarily an OWA for 2004. Appearing in the afternoon were Cave Spring Cellars, Coyote’s Run Estate, Crown Bench Estates, Kacaba, Legends, Maleta, Mountain Road Wine Company, Puddicombe, and Reif. Appearing at night was Niagara College Teaching Winery. The OWA had 453 wines submitted from 49 Ontario wineries, and the Awards were presented at Queen’s Landing, NOTL on April 30. Tonight, there were 29 wineries pouring 72 gold, silver and bronze winners. I tasted mainly whites during the afternoon because we were outdoors on the patio, with glorious sunshine and umbrellas, plus it seemed that most of the food plates favoured white wines (Miller Tavern is a seafood place). Cheeses were offered – all from Quebec, none from Ontario – by the Dairy Farmers of Canada. They included Sir Laurier, Chateauguay, Delice des Appalaches, and Cru Clocher raw milk cheddar). Some of my wine favourites from the afternoon included Angels Gate Chardonnay 2002 ($16.95, basic light but delicious), Cave Spring Chardonnay Reserve 2002 (still tight), Cilento Chardonnay Reserve 2000 (a delicious blend of fruit and wood spices), Lailey 2002 Chardonnay, Lakeview Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2002, Legends Chardonnay Reserve 2002 (scrumptious) and its Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Reserve 2002 (not available at night show, $22 for a mouthful for ripeness and fruit), the Mountain Road Chardonnay 2000 Barrel Aged (one of the better wines this afternoon), the Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2000 ($19.95, still evolving), and the Strewn Terroir Chardonnay French Oak 2002. And yes, I did taste other white grape varietals…. In the evening, it was on to the OWA winners. I avoided the sweet wines. There was plenty of opportunity to taste since most of the consumers were lined up for the food. I had forgotten that the food goes first at consumer shows. At any rate this gives a healthy platform for wine absorption later; I hardly noticed anybody spitting. I must get out more often… Some faves included Angels Gate Gewurztraminer 2003 (silver, off-dry, good patio wine, some muscat character), Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay St.David’s Bench 2000 (gold, off-dry fruity), Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot Estate 1999 (gold, ripe Bordeaux style), Cilento Merlot Reserve 1999 (gold, good aging, soft complexity), Creekside Signature Merlot 2001 (bronze, fruity ripeness), Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut Rose (bronze, fabulous), Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2002 (silver, brilliant balance and length), Konzelmann Late Harvest Dry Riesling Traminer 2002 (gold, concentrated but dry flavours), Niagara College Teaching Winery Chardonnay 2002 (bronze, but it should have been higher), Niagara College Teaching Winery Pinot Noir 2002 (2004 OWA Wine of the Year, gold, $18.95), Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (gold, $18.95 September 2004 Vintages), Southbrook Triomphus Chardonnay 1998 (gold, their top of the line model), Stoney Ridge Founder’s Signature Collection Chardonnay 2002 (bronze, light, off-dry) and its Meritage 2002 in the same series (bronze, light but fruity), Thomas & Vaughan Meritage 2000 (gold), Vineland Estate Cabernet Franc 2002 (gold, deliciously fruity), and Willow Heights Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (bronze, but a juicy lucy wine). The event was managed by Forefront Communications, and both David and Sandy get a quality rating of 9/10. TUESDAY, JUNE 8, 2004 – Churchill Cellars (416-368-5108 or www.churchillcellars.com) put on a press luncheon to taste Chateau de Gourgazaud wines from the Minervois. This was a portfolio overview plus a preview of the new premium wine named Quintus (Latinish, derived from quintessential, not five). Annick Tiburce from the Chateau was in town for this presentation, as well as for the Languedoc tasting the next day (see below). The property has 100 hectares planted to Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. There is pruning, green harvesting, and low yields. There were seven wines tasted; only three reds would be at the show next day. The whites are labeled Domaine de Gourgazaud while the reds are Chateau de Gourgazaud. Mlle. Tiburce led us through the tasting… -Domaine de Gourgazaud 2003 Viognier Chardonnay, about $11.95 private order, floral developing, great for summer. -2003 Chardonnay, about $11.45, light enough for summer. -2003 Viognier, $15.95, multiple medal winner, polished smokey dried fruit and apricots. Vintages. Sauvignon blanc is also made but not sold in North America. -Chateau de Gourgazaud Minervois Rouge, $11.80 General List, 75% syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 5% carignan. Affordable all-purpose wine for heavier food. -2002 Minervois Cuvee Mathilde, $12.95, complex and spicy, 80% syrah. -2001 Minervois la Liviniere Reserve, $16.95, 80% syrah, rustic, delivers a hot peppery finish, black fruits and mocha. -Quintus 2001 Minervois, $40, available next year at Classics? complexities of mushrooms, underbrush, dried fruits, some anise. Needs time, maybe ten years. The wine, at a Grand Reserve level in terms of selection and wood treatment, is made only in “good years”. This is its first vintage, so it is a true millennial wine. It was not made in 2002 or 2003. 14.5% alcohol, 4,000 bottles in all, 80/20 syrah and mourvedre blend. As a quality event, it rates a 8/10. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 9, 2004 – “Languedoc Sensations” was the name of the trade show sponsored by the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc, through Sopexa, at JK on Church. It began at the lunch hour, progressing form some three hours. All the wines poured were AOC Languedoc, which comprises some 18 areas such as Minervois, Corbieres, and Fitou. Some players in the marketplace feel that the AOC wines have been bypassed by the success of the Pays D’Oc table wines. On the one hand, the Pays wines are bringing money into the region. But on the other hand, the AOC wines are being ignored. So the answer is promotion. On display were some 60 wines, arranged (alphabetically by region) on a bank of tables in L-shaped formation. This led to a bunching by the sparkling Limoux, but no matter. There was gorgeous and generous buffet-style food from JK, on a south of France theme (how else to explain the pain bagnat from Nice?) with cassoulet, Provencal ratatouille, soupe de poisson, lamb kebabs. The booklet carefully explained the AOCs, with grape varieties, terroir, and the wines. This was all repeated during a computer presentation. Most people sat and ate their lunch while listening/viewing. I took the opportunity to do further tasting – without a crowd. Very few prices were available, and some wines were looking for agents. My favourite wines seemed to be those with a higher syrah content, such as the Chateau de Cruscades Cote Jardin Corbieres Rouge 2000 (from Edwards Wine and Spirits) which was 40% syrah or Chateau Grand Moulin Terres Rouges Corbieres Rouge 2001 (from Trilogy, Classics Autumn 2004) at 60% with some pepper and coconut tones. Or even the Chateau de Gourgazaud series with 80% syrah (Churchill Cellars). The Domaine Serres Mazard Cuvee Henri Serres Corbieres Rouge 2001 was 2/3 syrah, soft, in a new world style (Authentic, $27.95, Classics Autumn 2004). The Domaine de Nizas Coteaux du Languedoc Red 1998 will be here at $27.95 Vintages Fall 2004 (Signature Wines), 95% syrah with good wood. I also liked the Chateau des Estanilles Faugeres Rouge 1999, which has been languishing at the LCBO since Spring 2002, +967026, $32, from Vin Passion. Chateau de Castigno Cuvee du Sabinas Saint Chinian Rouge 1999 had a good syrah hit (65% syrah, from Hobbs & Co.) and seemed to be developing well in the bottle. Of the sparkling Limoux, I preferred Sieur d’Arques Blanquette de Limoux and its Grande Cuvee Millenaire (Philippe Dandurand), both light and easy with some anise. The Domaine L. Laurens Tete de Cuvee Blanc de Blancs Cremant de Limoux 2000 was no slouch either (Edward’s), smooth and aged well. Cremant has a maximum of 70% mauzac grapes plus 30% total of Chenin blanc and chardonnay. The best still white wine was the fresh and fruity, bright and juicy, off-dry Chateau Villaerambert Julien Minervois Blanc 2002 (one-third marsanne, roussanne, and viognier, from Authentic: hope that there is some left!). Thanks to Anne Popoff and the Sopexa crew, the event rated a 9/10. FRIDAY, JUNE 11, 2004 – Dog Point Vineyards from New Zealand was introduced to Ontario today, at the National Club. The agent is Capricorn Wine (416-544-8685 or capricornwine@rogers.com). Dog Point of Marlborough is the creation of Ivan Sutherland and James Healy. Both men were members of the team behind Cloudy Bay: Sutherland as viticulture director and Healy as chief winemaker. Last year both men left to work full-time on their own brand Dog Point. It was an informal tasting, midday, with Ivan and James plus Geoff Townsend. The 2002 was their inaugural vintage and currently, they only make four wines (including a basic Sauvignon Blanc, not shown today). Reserve levels will come later. They concentrate only on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The winery is all hands on, all hand picked, low yields, close cropping, and sustainable agricultural principles. -Sauvignon Blanc Section 94 2002, $36, 16 months aging, on lees, older oak. The grapes come from section 94, an older patch. Lovely leafy nose, not assertive, good body thick, aftertaste lingers, smokey in a fume way. 25 cases on consignment. -Chardonnay 2002, $36, 14% alcohol, 20 months in oak (25% new, medium toast), from 1995 plantings, grapefruit character, still a young wine. Mendoza and Dijon 95 clones, indigenous yeasts. 15 cases. -Pinot Noir 2002, $43, 14% alcohol, 20 year old vines, chocolate, hot nose, sweet on palate, lingering finish, best with food. 15 cases. Yet another quality event, rated at 8/10. THURSDAY, JUNE 17, 2004 – Last month I spent my birthday noshing with the Kiwis, and today I’ll spend my wedding anniversary with the Ozzies. I go out of my way for the antipodeans…And why not? They have such good wines. The Victorian state government, through the Australian Trade Commission in Toronto, sponsored a trade tasting of some dozen wineries, many of them without agents in Ontario. They have been on the promotion trail, beginning with Vancouver and ending with VinExpo in Chicago. Our venue today was the Conference Room of the ATC, on Bloor Street. The Victorian team made sure that we had plenty of handouts describing each winery, the Victorian state wine growing areas, and agency sheets. Most of the wineries were looking for agents. The show was not comprehensive since most heavyweights were absent (Chateau Tahbilk, Michelton, Taltarni, Brown Brothers). Some of the wines I appreciated included Austin’s Barrabool Chardonnay 2002 ($30, toasty in new French oak) and Caledonia Australis (some of the best stuff at the show) Chardonnay 2001 ($25), the Reserve 2001 ($40), the Pinot Noir 2001 and Reserve 2001 (both Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs were extremely elegant in a preserved Burgundian manner). There were some Italian heritage wineries, such as Crismont (repped by Lamprecht in Ontario) with its Pinot Grigio, Arneis, Barbera, and Sangiovese, and Dal Zotto with its barbera and sangiovese. One of the widest ranges came from Dromana Estate David Traeger (repped by Airen in Ontario) with a light and lively Verdelho 2002($18.90) and some Italian styled I Nebbiolo 2000 ($21.55 currently at Vintages) and I Sangiovese 2002 ($23.35). A real winner was the Mornington Estate Shiraz with 5% viognier added; it was in screw top and under $20. Pettavel (repped by Portfolio in Ontario) showed a Émigré Shiraz 2002 (the 2000 is in Classics Catalogue) which was a good buy at $39. Sally’s Paddock showed off its ultra premium blend of malbec, merlot, cabernets, and syrah, about $60- 65 if in Canada; it was a multi-layered gem. Its more reasonable Hundred Tree Hill Shiraz 2002 (about $20) showed multiple hits of chocolate tones. Many of its affordable wines were in a ripe style, juicy without being sweet, about 13.5% alcohol or higher. The accompanying food platter included corned beef wrapped around pickles and tea-time pinwheel sandwiches. Nothing went with the wines. The quality event rated a 7/10. FRIDAY, JUNE 18, 2004 – Andy Reichel of Reichel-Waldorf andy@reichel- waldorf.ca 604-277-1161 had the wine press in for a tasting at LCBO Scrivener Square, mid-day, with a light luncheon. He had three Bordeaux Chateaux. And reps from the properties led the tasting. Hosting the event were Gildas d’Ollone of Pichon-Lallande, Jean Guillaume Prats of Cos d’Estournel, and Jean Bernard Grenie of Angelus. We tasted the following: -Chateau Bernadotte 1998 Haut-Medoc (owned by Pichon): smokey, juicy aromas, medium body, tight structure, good balance. Both cabernets dominate the palate. -Reserve de la Comtesse 1994 Pauillac (second wine of Pichon): light nose but impressive, short finish. Between 10 and 40 per cent of Pichon harvest goes into this wine, 18 months of aging in 25% new French oak. -Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Contesse de Lalande 1996 Pauillac: intense black fruit (cherry, cassis) character. Typical cedary aromas. 35% merlot, 45 cabernet sauvignon, 12 franc, 8 petit verdot. 50% new French oak. -Les Pagodes de Cos 1996 Saint-Estephe (second wine of Cos): tartish, but opened up two days later, very compelling, clean, classic, not overly complex, good with my lamb couscous. -Chateau Cos d’Estournel 1986 Saint-Estephe: aging well but still a bit green, solid fruit complemented by weedy notes, needs balancing. -Le Carillon de l’Angelus 1999 Saint-Emilion (second wine of Angelus): focused nose but soft, lots of finesse, persistent black cherry fruit flavours, some tannic finish. 60% merlot, 40% cabernet franc. -Chateau Angelus 1998 Saint-Emilion: compellingly massive, with tremendous integration. Meaty but towards the softer side of filet mignon! 30 year old vines, 50% merlot, 47% cabernet franc, 3% cab. sauvignon. This quality event, made even more so by the interaction with the three principals, definitely rates a 9/10. WEDNESDAY, JUNE 23, 2004 – Vintages put on a superb Young Winemakers Tasting at the Liberty Grand, with a wine media component from 5:30. As in previous years, two dozen or so “under 40” winemakers poured more than 65 wines. Major wine producing countries or regions included Ontario (but not British Columbia), Australia, Austria, France, Germany, Greece, Italy, New Zealand, Portugal, South Africa, Spain and California. Wines were available for purchase through the virtual online store, although this detail was not stated on the promotional leaflet nor in the June Vintages catalogue. Something to fix for the future…I toured first through the whites, and then followed the reds. Some of my favourite whites included Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2002 (Henry of Pelham, $26.95) with its deep riesling intensity, the equally intense Domaine du Bollenberg Riesling Cuvee Selectionnee 2002 Alsace ($25.95), the juicy Chardonnay 2002 Margaret River (Olsen, $17.95), the smoky Chardonnay CSV 2000 (Cave Spring Cellars, $26.95), the triple F (floral, fruity, fresh) nature of Perrin Reserve Blanc 2003 (50% grenache blanc, 20% viognier, 15% each marsanne and roussanne; $14.95 and the best white in the show in terms of dollar value), the rich Fiano di Avellino Terri di Dora 2003 (Terradora, $23.95: best white wine overall) and the invitingly-warm Greco di Tufo Loggia della Serra 2003 (Terradora, $19.95), the Fume Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2002 North Coast with its harmonious acidity (Benziger, $17.95), and the well- balanced Barrel Aged Old Vines Chardonnay 2002 (Angel’s Gate, $21.95) from Beamsville. Among the reds, I found enjoyment after sampling the full flavours and openness of the Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2001 ($29.95), the wood complexity of the Nederburg Private bin Shiraz 2001 Paarl ($24.95), the gusto of the Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Barossa (Langmeil, $27.95), the tasty and compelling flavours of the Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Sonoma (Benziger, $28.95), the Benuara 2002 IGT Sicily (80% nero d’avola, 20% syrah; $22.95 for some very good depth), the Inkara Shiraz Limited 2002 Robertson (Bon Courage, $21.95 for juiciness, wood tones, some mint, and a long finish: probably the best red at the show, in terms of dollar value), Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa (Markham, $36.95, and showing great depth and complexity, character on the finish: this was the best red wine at the show). The event finally got rid of the lineups caused by star chefs, and settled for hors d’oeuvre. And they kept the music down; I could actually have a conversation with a winemaker this time. As a quality event, the Young Winemakers rates a 9/10. THURSDAY, JUNE 24, 2004 – Elisa Ucar, Export Manager for Bodegas Julian Chivite of Navarre, led an afternoon media tasting of her wines at the offices of her agent, Churchill Cellars (416-368-5108) www.churchillcellars.com. Tapas were ordered in from Casa Barcelona, so it was a completely Spanish production. Eleven wines were shown. As always, availability is not complete. The first five are the Gran Feudo line from Navarre. The Vina Salceda series are Rioja. The Coleccion returns us to Navarre. Here are some notes: -Gran Feudo Chardonnay 2003, $12.50est., not wood, good firm body, fresh. -Gran Feudo Rose 2003, $10.50 +256149, floral, strawberries, great finish. -Gran Feudo Crianza 2000, N/A, well-balanced readiness, soft and fruity too. -Gran Feudo Reserva 1998, $14.45 in October 2004, +479014, small oak casks, spicy, warm, ripe, long finish. A winner at this price. -Gran Feudo Vinas Viejas Reserva 1998, $18.95est., with some cabernet sauvignon and merlot, old vines, Allier oak. -Vina Salceda Crianza Rioja 2001, $16.95est., soft, fruity, mainly North American profile, clean. -Vina Salceda Reserva 1999, $24.95est., good length, nice aging, complex aftertaste. -Conde de la Salceda Reserva 1998, $49.95est., dark, dense, and dusky, tannic backbone needs time to resolve. -Chivite Coleccion 125 Reserve 1999, $39.93 +702431, single vineyard, about 68% tempranillo, 30% merlot, magnificent finish and even some burgundian-type complexity. Compelling and their top red wine. -Chivite Coleccion 125 Blanco 2001, $61.45est., all chardonnay, all burgundian, all delicious, all expensive. -Chivite Coleccion 125 Vendimia Tardia 2001, $42est. for 375mL bottle, 13% alcohol, some botrytis, all muscat, barrel fermented in two year old oak, delicious and revealing, but a hard sell in Ontario. As an event, the quality rates a 8/10. PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH -Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay South East Australia 2002, +634071, $7.45 before June 21, 13.9% alcohol, good entry level balanced and focused Oz chardonnay, now available in half-bottles (a boon for restaurants). -Mission Hill Pinot Blanc Okanagan 2002, +330301, $11.45, ripe, firm and juicy, pleasant aftertaste. Sip or food. -Mission Hill Chardonnay Reserve Okanagan 2002, +5454004 Vintages Essential, $17.95, remarkable value at this price level. -Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Paarl, +382713, $9.95, 13% alcohol and 100% dynamite at this price point, fresh herbs and grass, long long finish. -Angove’s Bear Crossing Chardonnay 2002 Australia, +592758, $12.10, soft, peaches, melons, vanilla. -Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet South East Australia 2001, +434878, $7.95 before June 21, full-bodied, matured in both French and US oak, vibrant fruit, well-balanced, useful for restaurants, 13.9% alcohol, 52% shiraz. -Mission Hill Merlot Reserve 2001 Okanagan, +881524, $19.95, 13.5% alcohol, delicious, with wood tones. Consignment from Mark Anthony 905- 238-6731. -Yalumba Y series Merlot 2001 South Australia, +625111, $13.95, deep roasted intense flavours, hot climate wine, developing well. -Obikwa Shiraz 2003 South Africa, +527499, $7.95, 13% alcohol but ripe, full, juicy, chocolate and cherries, great sipper. A good buy. -Corbett Canyon Shiraz 2001 California, +599068, $9.95, a quality shiraz, MVC flavours, some 10% cabernet sauvignon added, sip or food, value-priced. -Nederburg Shiraz 2001 Paarl, +527457, $11.95, I enjoyed their Private Bin Shiraz, so why not the more gentler regular bottling at half the price? Good balance, syrah component light on finish. -Wylpena Shiraz 1998 McLaren Vale, +7309051 Classics, $35, 14% alcohol, good price for a six-year old shiraz, long bottled flavours. -J.P.Vinhos Quinta da Bacalhoa 2001 Setubal, +9776787 Classics, $28, soft, ripe, ready soon, some wood tones, North American style? WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MAY 2004 =================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com MONDAY, MAY 3, 2004 – Grupo Osborne tonight sponsored a Winemaker’s Dinner at Chef David Lee’s Splendido Bar and Grill, with twelve wines and spirits from Spain. The press and restaurateurs gathered around Maria Martinez Sierra in the pre-dinner hors d’oeuvres part of the evening, held in the wine cellar, where we had a variety of trout, salmon tartar, and shrimp, accompanied by three wines. One was the Montecillo White Rioja 2003, made from viura grapes (crisp, clean and brisk, good aperitif), another was the Osborne Fino Quinta Pale Dry Sherry (half-bottle, developing tang, quite nice with everything). The winner was the third: Amontillado Solera AOS 35 year old Sherry (22% alcohol, 200 cases made each year, pale, fine caramel bite on the mid- palate, becoming soulful on the end). Dinner began with a tartar of New Zealand venison scented with white truffle and with pommes gaufrettes. It was accompanied by two General Listed reds, Osborne Solaz 2001 (+610188, $9.45, 80% tempranillo, US oak, some cabernet sauvignon tones, useful) and Montecillo Rioja Crianza 2000 (+144493, $13.95, all tempranillo, raspberry nose, wood tones, bit light on the finish, excellent aromatics). Next up was a glorious rosemary roasted quail with bresaola, wild mushrooms, and Du Puy lentils. Chef Lee had small portions of everything on offer, running through a seven course tasting menu. With the quail came Montecillo Rioja Reserva 1998 (cranberry nose, broad fruit, tartness but with some age on the finish) and Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva 1995 (age on the nose, some volatile acidity, long length with some concentration from the 18 months in French oak). Maria Sierra spoke about the wines with each course, emphasizing that the Riojas were 100% tempranillo from La Rioja Alta. Our next course was the double-smoked bacon wrapped rabbit loin with a rabbit leg confit and papardelle. This was the best, most effective plate of the night, along with the Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva Especial 1982, a perfect match (bottled in 1987, showing bottle age, long penetrating engaging finish, balance and resolution). With a selection of Manchego, Majorero, and Montenebro cheeses came the Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial 1975, poured from magnums, complex ripe fruit on the nose, still a tight palate, slightly acidic, fruity on the finish that grew in the glass. With dessert, we had a rhubarb tart almond crumble and strawberry ice cream, along with a Pedro Ximenez Viejo 30 Year Old Sherry, dark mahogany colour, toasty, full of penetrating depth in its treacle effectiveness, drying out nicely. Mignardises completed the evening, accompanied by Condes de Osborne Solera Gran Reserva Brandy (aged for ten years in barrels which previously contained pedro ximenez) and Duff Gordon Brandy (+16022, $21.25 General List). For more information on product availability, call Peter Mielzynski Agencies at 905-820-4117. TUESDAY, MAY 4, 204 – The Annual Austrian Wine Event this year showed the largest number of Austrian wines ever presented in Canada. More than 35 wineries participated at the Arcadian Court, with a selection of about 200 wines. First up was the Tutored Trade Tasting, with Margaret Swaine, followed by a separate walk-around tasting for the trade. After 6 PM, this became a consumer public tasting. The formal tutored section had 25 specific wines plus 13 others for paused sampling, questions, and other appreciation. Some of the wines I enjoyed included Felsner’s Gruner Veltliner Lossterrassen 2003 (+994699, Vergina, $15.95), Leopold’s Gruner Veltliner Kamptal 2003 (Lamprecht, $12), Brundlmayer’s Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg 2003 (H.H.D. Imports, unfortunately $68 with its long engaging finish and wood tones), Polsterer’s Roter Veltliner Donauland 2003 (Lamprecht, $17, very sprightly), Allram’s Chardonnay Strasser Wechselberg 2002 (+780080, Portfolio, $25.95, very North American in style), Tement’s Sauvignon Blanc Steirische Klassik 2003 (Conoval Importing, $28.95, very New Zealand in grassy-goosey style), Elfenhof’s Gewurztraminer Auslese 2000 (MCO, $26.45, late harvest, intense gewurz character, affordable). For the walkabout, the Consulate-General of Austria had produced a superb and informative booklet, with just about everything we needed to know (names, vintage years, retail value, CSPC, agents, addresses, etc.). I hope they keep the book in stock, since it makes a great selling tool on its own, showing availability to this province’s restaurants. I enjoyed sampling Schloss Gobelsburg’s Riesling Alte Reben 2002 (Andrews, +813634, $37, engaging), Brundlmayer’s Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen 2003(H.H.D.Imports, $28, good character, long finish), Sepp Moser’s Muskat Ottonel 2003 (Lamprecht, $17.50, dry white version, lovely aromatics, great price), Dr.Franz’s Muskat Ottonel Barrique TBA 1999 (Portfolio, $85, delicious intensity), Aichinger’s Cuvee CMZ 2001 (Merchant Vintner, $30, interesting blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and zweigelt, showing good fruit on the palate), and Machherndl’s Riesling Smaragd Steinterrassen 2000 (Wine World, $24.95, +924761, fresh, brisk, citric finish). TUESDAY, MAY 4, 2004 – Lailey Vineyards had its Spring Release Tasting tonight at Grano. The winemaker, Derek Barnett, made the presentation. Hors d’oeuvres were served with the following wines: - Lailey Chardonnay 2002, $20, 600 cases: medium-bodied with pears, oak, and apples showing, followed by crisp, exciting finish. - Lailey Old Vines Chardonnay 2002, $39, 80 cases: tropicality and nuttiness, with a brisk depthful finish. - Lailey Limited Edition Chardonnay 2002, $45, 69 cases: from new French oak, with a Burgundian lime feel. - Lailey Cabernet-Merlot 2002, $22, 935 cases: softer than expected, more black fruit, even some mintiness, a best buy at this price level. - Lailey Cabernet Franc 2002, $29, 150 cases: 70% French oak, 30% US oak, meant for long term aging. Dark black fruit, Bordeaux tobacco-cedar complexity, plus some grassy herbaceousness. Half- bottles at $15 may age sooner. - Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $35, 150 cases: intense black currant nose and aromatics, followed by lifted fruit on the palate, nice balance, for the long haul (try the half-bottle at $19). - Lailey Merlot 2002, $35, 150 cases: typical MVC with plums, chocolate, approachability. Try also the $19 half-bottle. - Lailey Cabernet Franc 2002 Canadian Oak, $40, 47 cases: same leafiness and green as the regular bottling, but with more fennel tones. - Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Canadian Oak, $45, 47 cases: full-bodied with black currants and spices, seems a bit tight right now but will develop over the long haul. For more details, availability, and shipping call Lailey at 905-468- 0503 or www.laileyvineyard.com WEDNESDAY, MAY 5, 2004 – Lifford Agencies had their portfolio tasting this afternoon (for the trade) and this evening (consumer) at the Capitol Event Theatre (which has dreadful lighting for a winetasting, and I have said this before). The tasting was in support of Pathways, a United Way agency for disadvantaged youth. Trade and consumers contributed by buying entrance tickets. It was a wonderful experience, and I certainly wish more agents would set up a system for “portfolio tastings for charity”. It is no hardship to pay a modest fee for an impressive tasting. Lifford was pouring wines from their entire portfolio, more than 50 producers. Fifteen principals were announced as attending, including Roberto Echeverria from Chile, Karen Cakebread from Napa, Chiara Speri from Italy, and Philippe Zinck from Alsace. Locals included owners of Thirty Bench and Southbrook. There were others from France and Italy. Unfortunately, I was unable to taste every wine (I also had another event that evening) in the walkaround, so my notes remain impressionistic. Lifford had great notes, which you should be able to download at www.liffordwineagency.com. Product is available now or soon, and only by the case (check with orders@liffordwineagency.com or 1-877-272-1720). Some of the white wines that stood out for me included Thirty Bench’s Chardonnay Reserve 1999 Reif Vineyard ($33.88 licensee), Joseph Phelps White Pastiche 2001 ($23.50, aromatic blend like Conundrum), Cakebread’s Chardonnay 2001 ($57.50, focused), Pine Ridge’s Chardonnay Carneros 2001 ($26.50 half- bottle), Niebaum-Coppola Estate Bianco 2003 ($19.99, fresh and fruity), Niebaum-Coppola Estate Chardonnay 2002 Diamond Series Monterey ($26.95), Benziger Family Fume Blanc 2002 ($19.95), Ironstone Sauvignon Blanc 2002 ($17.50, grassy), Ironstone Viognier 2001 ($17.50, excellent for summer), Ironstone Chardonnay Reserve 2000 ($26.50, superb toast, rich, fabulous price), Hollick Coonawarra Chardonnay 2001 ($19.95, juicy, hit of toast, BF), Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2003 ($21.50, grassy), Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti Nivole 2003 ($14.95 half-bottle, fresh fizzy peaches), Paul Zink Alsace Pinot Blanc 2002 ($15.50, smokey nose and length), Weinbach Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Lawrence 2001 ($79.95, very intense), and the Domaines du Fontcaude Comtesse Beauvarlet White 2002 D’Oc ($10.99, but a pleasing blend of sauvignon blanc and Muscat). Among the reds, I favoured Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa ($85), Niebaum-Coppola Estate Claret 2002 Diamond Series ($29.95, full, ripe, delicious blend), Marietta Cellars Old Vine Lot 34 ($19.95, juicy), Ironstone Zinfandel Reserve 2000 ($36.95, from old vines, juicy quality), Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1999 ($45, smokey, soft finish), Shaw and Smith Merlot 2001 Australia ($26.50), Mitchell Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Clare Valley ($22.50, minty), Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz 2002 ($23.50, full, toasty, almost French style, and Humberto Canale Argentina Black River Reserve Malbec 2002 ($24), I thought Lifford did a great job in promotion – just get the lights fixed next time… WEDNESDAY, MAY 5, 2004 – The Ontario Wine Society presented the Toronto Chapter’s Annual Dinner at The Tundra (Hilton Toronto). Tundra has gone through a makeover, returning to its Canadian roots. Chef John Cirillo, once named 1998 Chef of the Year by the Escoffier Society of Toronto, has been at the helm for about three years. Thomas and Vaughan (founded in 1998) were the winery of choice this time. They had just recently been bought by the owners of EastDell. However, Thomas Kocsis managed to bring forth a variety of wines for this tasting, all crafted by his winemaker Jason James, a CCVOVI graduate now doing great work. After a variety of appetizers (salmon, roast beef) with a reception wine (Riesling 2002, $10.95, off-dry, citrusy, longer finish, good for socializing), we got down to the first course of veal sweetbread and girolle mushroom tourtiere with maple-glazed duck breast. The natural accompaniment was the delicious Chardonnay Estate 2000 ($20, toasty, fruity, and good oaking). The first main was a seafood stew (shrimp, scallops, salmon) with fennel, and the wonderfully soft-herby Sauvignon Blanc ($12.95). The lemon and sage sorbet was actually refreshingly dry and crisp. The next main was a grilled elk loin with fingerling potatoes and patty pan squash. It was awesome, especially with the prize winning Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve 2000, which had spent 15 months in barrel. Dessert comprised a wild berry crème caramel, a bit overshadowed by the Riesling Botrytis Affected 2001. Nevertheless, it was a successful event, with many members and their guests staying beyond the coffee stage. It is the policy of the OWS not to revisit a restaurant: when will we run out of quality restaurants in Toronto serving “Canadian” foods and wines? Just wonderin’ THURSDAY, MAY 6, 2004 – Ms. Armelle Cruse, owner and manager of Chateau du Taillan, sixth generation of the Cruse family of Bordeaux, came to town to promote her wines. Ch. du Taillan Cuvee des Dames 2000 was released at Vintages (+984427, $22.95); it was one of my early picks. She led a vertical tasting for the wine media at the LCBO Scrivener Square tasting room. Chateau du Taillan is if the first estate one comes to on the road to the Medoc. This makes it almost a Graves. Certainly, it is Graves in style. 86 acres are planted, the wines are in heavily toasted French oak for 18 months, and the average age of the vines is about a quarter-century. Here are some notes: - Ch.du Taillan Cru Bourgeois Superieur Haut-Medoc 1999: Quebec only (on the SAQ general list for the past decade), about $20 – off-dry aromatic nose, very fruity, midweight character, good balance and follow-through, slightly soft tannins, ready to drink? - Ch.du Taillan 2000: some dust on the nose, dark fruit, concentrated body, plummy, lots of merlot (40%), very North American in style. 10,000 cases made. - Ch. du Taillan 2001: 60Merlot/20CabFranc/20CS. A bit thinner, more CF leafy character, ripe merlot tones. - Chateau du Taillan Cuvee des Dames Cru Bourgeois Superieur Haut-Medoc 1999: made in and for a New Style, using merlot and cabernet franc only. Smokey, elegant, good rich flavours. - Chateau du Taillan Cuvee des Dames 2000: +984427, $22.95. stronger cabernet franc character, needs time to open, 20% in oak, good balance. - Chateau du Taillan Cuvee des Dames 2001: dense, sweet on the palate, but tannins need time to resolve. For more details about product availability, call Pernod Ricard Canada 905-712-0675. TUESDAY, MAY 11, 2004 – the sixth annual Santé (the Bloor-Yorkville Wine Festival) was launched this noon, in the Atrium at the Manulife Centre. It was launched in high fashion with El Zorro himself, Don Ziraldo (President and Co-Founder of Inniskillin Wines), using a saber to open a bottle of his sparkling Icewine. After the statements from Susan Puff (Festival Manager) and Don Ziraldo, there were wines and cheeses to sample. There was a wide variety of cheese from the Dairy Farmers of Canada through Artisan Cheese Marketing (416-652-6889) — these were mainly from Quebec and Ontario. They included the remarkable Balderson 5 year Cheddar (a 2004 championship winner). The assortment of wines included a range from Le Sommelier importers (Ardent, III Associates, Roehr, Antiquarian, Dog Ridge), plus wines from Torres, Sterling Vineyards, Mondavi, Montes Alpha, and many others. WEDNESDAY, MAY 12, 2004 – The Fetzer Great Beginnings Wine and Appetizer Challenge came to the Carlu, as part of Santé. This is its first year in Toronto; it has been out west for several years. Chefs in Ontario were invited to present original creations to a judging panel in February, and ten were selected as finalists. They were evaluated on originality, flavour, presentation, and how well their dish paired with Fetzer’s Five Rivers Ranch Chardonnay (+641449, $18.95 at Vintages, opens with tropicality, moves to citric tones, medium flavours, some finishing spices and cool climate acidity). Over 400 tickets had been sold, with a portion going to charity, for a walkaround of wine with ten different appetizers. The tasting panel selected its top three; the “people’s choice award” was based on a ballot. Everybody got a booklet with recipes. And at 7 PM, the Fetzer Five Rivers Ranch Syrah came out (+641431, $19.95 at Vintages, a bit taut and fruit-shy at this point but definitely syrah as opposed to shiraz, and very food friendly). Of course, the tasting panel had a near-lab situation; the consumers had a walkaround with dim lights, a bit of noise, and precious few spots to actually put down the plate and wine onto a flat surface. The panel came up with the grand winner: “Mosaic of Seafood” (coconut shrimp with Thai peanut sauce, seared sea scallop with sweet pea coulis, ahi tuna, huckleberry-cured salmon with crème fraiche) from Liv at White oaks Resort & Spa. These were actually four appetizers on one plate, and my notes said “too many flavours for the wine”. The panel’s second choice was the spiced seared scallops from Annona (Park Hyatt Toronto hotel). Third place went to seared duo of sea scallop and pickerel-lobster mousse from Epic (Fairmont Royal York hotel). The choice of the consumers, based on balloting, was the assiette of rabbit, rabbit loin, foie gras, and rabbit sausage with pommery mustard from Oscars Restaurant in Barrie. Well, okay…but it actually went better with the red wine, the out-of-competition Syrah!! My choice for the best food- wine pairing, based on the flavours of the wine itself (and this does not mean the BEST appetizer, just the best match), was the seafood boudin with organic orange and pear salad from Crush in Toronto. The boudin had lobster, crab, frog legs, salmon, and cream. Delicious to savour with the wine. Now onto next year…. THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 – The big Santé international wine tasting happened at The Carlu today, with a trade show in the afternoon and a consumer show at night (plus Friday night as well). About 64 wineries from Canada and abroad participated, with somebody in attendance from the head office (either a winemaker or an export director, or even an owner or two). This was the sixth annual tasting. The tasting note booklet was superb, modeled after the Italian versions from other shows. The wineries were listed alphabetically, with full names and addresses, email, phone numbers, web sites, agents of record, a short note, and the wines for tasting, usually about four per winery. This meant about 240 wines at the grand show. This year the LCBO had a store where consumers could buy SINGLE bottles of consignment product or SINGLE bottles of Ontario winery-only wines. That was a fabulous idea, and I hope that it comes back next year. The tasting was, of course, a walkaround zoo of sorts. Here are some brief notes of wineries and wines I enjoyed; I could not taste all of the wines at the show (more would be tasted later at the Canadian Roots and at the Sunday Brunch): Anonymus Fine Wines (416-535-1146) showed Gere wines from Hungary, including the Gere Kopar Cuvee 2000 (a fruity bordeaux-styled wine at $78), and the Gere Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique 1997 ($36, wood tones and fruity). Rothschild (416-368-3344, Philippe Dandurand) had the Chateau d’Armailhac Pauillac 2001 (smokey nose bargain at $37) and the Escudo Rojo Maipo 2002 from Chile ($19.95, delicious fruit, substantial). Premier Wines (416-489-0219) introduced Champagne Gardet Brut Rose 1999 ($50 bargain) and its Cuvee Saint Flavy ($37.95). Maxxium (416-535-7899) had the Cono Sur line from Chile, and demonstrated why this might be one of the better food wine producers in Chile. The Vision line of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, and Syrah, all priced in the upper teens, seemed remarkably well-adapted to the light and useful style needed with matching. The gewürztraminer was especially nice, being in that Alsatian style. Perhaps the overall winner for exuberance was a new agency, Le Sommelier www.lesommelier.com 416-603-7026. They participated strongly in the Gala wine media launch, the Santé launch, the International Tasting, some of the Saturday seminars, and the Sunday Brunch. They brought up some very expensive wines from Australia. One was DogRidge from McLaren Vale. Its DV7 Shiraz 2001 ($58) was selected in a blind tasting as one of the ten wines featured at the Santé Fine Wine and Food Gala Dinner. It supported a number of Winemaker Dinners in the Yorkville area, as well as the Sip, Savour & Shop programme. Altogether they had 15 wines at Santé, including the Antiquarian Shiraz 1998 ($78), Ardent Estates Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon ($22, and a bargain), Roehr Barossa Valley’s line of top shiraz (Elmor’s, David’s, and the like, about $75 a crack), and III Associates from the McLaren Vale, a more modestly priced range of $34 to $44. Others I enjoyed included the delicious Beaulieu Vineyard Carneros Napa reserve Chardonnay 2001 ($40, Diageo 416-626-2000), the Beringer Blass Premium Selection Shiraz 2000 (Maxxium 416-535-7899), the Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre line from Chile (Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, about $30 apiece, Trilogy 416-968-0758), Cave Spring Cellars’ Chardonnay Reserve 2002 ($19.95, 905-562-3232), Hardy’s Oomoo Shiraz 2002 (good with food, Churchill 416-568-5108), Kacaba’s Chardonnay 2000 ($22, aged in oak, good meld of flavours, 905-562- 1111), Legends Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2002 ($27, six months French oak, well-rounded, 905-563-1672), Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage “Les Jalets” 2001 (broad flavours, useful for food-based syrah tastings and pairings, Halpern 416-593-2662), and Peter Lehmann Clancys Red 2002 (dense, chunky, Diamond Estates 416-488-4922). Cheeses, and a running commentary, were provided by the Dairy Farmers of Canada via Artisan Cheese Marketing (416-652-6889), and included several varieties of hard, soft, and blue cheeses (Le Douanier was the 2004 Grand Champion; Le Migneron, Ricotta, St.Paulin, and Bleubry were also 2004 champions) SATURDAY, MAY 15, 2004 – The Education Day seminars were held at the Park Hyatt hotel, as in other years. There were no mid-morning sessions. I signed up for the cheese seminar and for the bold reds. Other tempting seminars included food and wine pairing, celebration wines, wine and chocolate, and unusual wine varieties. Tony Aspler, himself a cheese judge for the biennial cheese championships held by the Dairy Farmers of Canada, and Kathy Guidi of Artisan Cheese Marketing co-led the cheese-wine seminar. We tasted nine wines and eight cheeses, looking for a consummate match. Principals or agents presented their wines, Kathy commented on the cheeses, and Tony tried to verbalize the matches. For the record, the wines included Yvon Mau’s Colombard Chardonnay, the Bad Dog White, Mondavi’s Fume Blanc, Kacaba’s Cabernet Sauvignon, F&J Rigal Prieure de Cenac Cahors, Marynissen’s Syrah, B & G’s Gold Label Bordeaux Rouge, Melini’s Chianti Classico Riserva La Selvanella, and Casa Lapostolle’s Cuvee Alexandre Merlot. The cheeses were, in order with the above wines, Sao Miguel (Portuguese style), Chenal du Moine (Que.) semi-soft, Le Migneron (Que.) semi-soft [2002 Grand Champion], Mamirolle (Que.) orange rind, Le Douanier (Que.)[2004 Grand Champion], Sir Laurier (Que.) soft washed rind, Balderson Cheddar 5-Year, and Bleu Benedictin (Que.) [2000 Grand Champion]…It was a unique opportunity to taste samples of these renowned cheeses, some of them award winners. The usual rule is white wine with runny and soft cheeses, red wines with hard cheeses, sweet wines with blues. If you only have one wine, though, make it a white (the Mondavi Fume Blanc seemed to go with all cheeses except the blue). Goat and sheep cheeses are good for the lactose-intolerant. The second seminar on big, bold reds was a little less focused but more straightforward. We were asked to guess which grape varieties were in which heavy wine (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel). Mere child’s play, you would say. However, many were fooled. The wines were Angoves Long Row Shiraz, Rothschild Escudo Rojo Maipo, Goundrey Homestead Shiraz, Sterling Vintner’s Collection Shiraz, Torres Mas La Plana, Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz, Dog Ridge DV7 McLaren Vale Shiraz, and E&J Gallo Frei Ranch Zinfandel. Most of the wines were plummy, some with dusty noses, and the shirazes were like shiraz (and not syrah). The Gallo Zinfandel certainly did not taste like zinfandel in this company. The Escudo Rojo had some carmenere, the Torres was tannic, many of the other wines were lighter than expected. A bit of a curate’s egg, as they say… SATURDAY, MAY 15, 2004 – Tonight, it is the Canadian Roots show. The Roots store at Bay and Bloor opened its doors to allow for a wine and food tasting, plus shopping. Wines came from VQA Ontario wineries plus Mission Hill from BC, food from caterers and from chefs of the Food Network Canada (Cushing, Olson, Blumer, Rainford). One curious point: the recipes for the Food Network Canada presentations (Chinese snow cones, buffalo ribs, apricot linzer torte) are in the master tasting book, which was only available at the tastings on Thursday and Friday, and not today. This was a missed opportunity, I felt. There was plenty of food, catered food as well, and cheeses from the Dairy Farmers of Canada (this time emphasizing Ontario’s Balderson Cheddars and the Portuguese Cheese Company’s St. John’s Goat and Sao Miguel). Most of the wines presented were food friendly and/or easily available via the LCBO. Lakeview showed its useful Pinot Gris 2001, Legends had its top flight Chardonnay Reserve 2002 and Meritage Reserve 2002, Peller Estates had its Signature Chardonnay Sur Lie 2001 and Cristalle sparkler (Ontario Wine Award winner), Pilliteri offered a Merlot 2002 and a Cabernet Franc Family Reserve 1999. Stoney Ridge had a useful Shiraz 2003, while Strewn had some retro-Chardonnay Barrel Aged 1999 (only $11.95 on General List). Chateau des Charmes came forth with its great MVC St.Davids Bench Merlot 2000, Cilento Chardonnay Reserve 2000 and Shiraz 2002 were superior quality. The best sippers of the evening were probably the Mission Hill Pinot Blanc 2002 and Merlot 2001, but then, that is the BC mode for sippers. As the event was filling up, and as I had tasted all the wines I wanted to, I managed to find my way out into the night… SUNDAY, MAY 16, 2004 – Santé brought back the Brunch. It had been a buffet at the Four Seasons a few years, tickets at $90. Now, it was a buffet at the Lesendro Restaurant in Hazelton Lanes, $40 each, completely utilizing the open space. Again, wines and cheeses were available for tasting. Unfortunately, there was not a separation of the cold buffet and the hot buffet. This resulted in two very long lineups. But at least the cheeses, wines, desserts, and coffees were easily accessible. All in all, since the $40 covered everything (including tax and tips), it has to be seen as one of the last bargains available in Toronto. My own strategy was to load up with the cold food and forget the hot. I was right…Nevertheless, onto the wines. Here I was looking for something light and airy for the mid-morning (although it was past noon). The Beaulieu Coastal Estates series seemed to fit the bill, with an engaging Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 and an atypical Sauvignon Blanc 2002. Also successful were the Argentine wines from Jose Quattrochi (Malbec de Crianza 2001, aged in French oak for one year; Vinas de Cuyum Mapu Torrontes 2002, the torrontes grape being just perfect with brunch food) and El Lagar/Finca La Amalia Oarmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (juicy, depth, black fruit). Sparklers – always welcome at brunches -- included the Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay and the Ardent Estates Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon, both non-vintaged and both from Australia. But the best quality drink was the Pillitteri Estates Duemila Chardonnay/Pinot Noir 2000 sparkler, reminiscent of the champagne so painfully missing at a brunch…The Chilean winery Vina Montes had their Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 and Alpha Chardonnay 2002, both perfect for the brunch mode (with the cabernet exhibiting merlot character, based on it actually being 10% merlot). Peter Lehmann’s Barossa Chardonnay and Semillon were also sunny reflections. Le Sommelier had some of its lighter Ozzie wines: III Associates Chardonnay and Roehr Barossa GSM (Grenache Mourvedre Shiraz). Again, I left just after the fashion show; the food lines were not getting any shorter. WEDNESDAY, MAY 19, 2004 – Tonight, we had a chance to meet with the newly appointed South African High Commissioner, Her Excellency Theresa Solomon who had once been mayor of Cape town. The event was at Toron Capital Markets, and it was sponsored by the Canada South Africa Chamber. After speeches and announcements, it was onto a wine tasting with cheeses, from Wineworld Importers (416-487-7147). They began by showing a General Listed Tribal Sauvignon Blanc-Colombard 2003 (+623694, $6.95), a very inexpensive patio wine, light, somewhat goosy and tempered by the Colombard, first rate) at the reception, and then moved onto the consignment wines: - Delheim Gewurztraminer $16.50: off-dry, good intensity, longer bitterish finish, decent price. - Delheim Grand Reserve $30.95: fruit, lighter cabernet, enough stuffing to need food. - Steenberg Merlot $23.95: minty and dusty, off-dry on palate, good grip, explodes on finish. - Staemans Cabernet Sauvignon $22.50: excellent depth and fruit, broad mid-palate, some wood tones, my favourite of the evening. WEDNESDAY, MAY 26, 2004 – The Taste of New Zealand Wine Fairs rolled into town. Actually, the first of two consumer shows was held last night; the second will be tonight. All events were at Alice Fazooli’s, as before. At 11 AM, the media, agents, and LCBO were invited to the annual seminar. This year it was “The Rise of New Zealand Reds”, with a presentation by Brent Marris (Wither Hills) and Stu Devine (Villa Maria Estate). Their introduction stressed that Canada is the fourth largest export market for New Zealand wines. Thirty-four percent of all vine plantings in NZ are red varieties, mostly Hawkes Bay (for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: 71% of warmer climate reds are planted here) and Marlborough (Pinot Noir). We started with a tasting of ten wines (9 from 2002), only three of which were in the show. The six pinot noirs were led off by Cloudy Bay Marlborough, a bit of a disappointment since it seemed to be excessively light with an off-dry nose. My favourite was The Crossings Marlborough (deep pinot nose, dense body, mouth- filling, explosive hot finish, very ripe. Nautilus Marlborough had a reticent nose but some chocolate and cherry tones. Seifried Estates Winemakers Collection Nelson was in Stelvin (wood on the nose, a bit sour cherry on finish). Murdoch James Estate Blue Rock Martinborough was soft cherries, sipper for its lightness and polite fruit. Felton Road Cornish Point Drystone Central Otago had a deep pinot nose, full body, good MVC, longer finish. The other four wines were really too diffused: syrah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and mixtures. The CJ Pask Reserve Declaration 2002 (cabernet, malbec, and merlot) showed a dusty nose, a bit sweet on the aromatics, good Bordeaux blend mouthfeel. The event concluded with a buffet lunch, which lasted until the trade show. Thanks to Robert Ketchin for organizing everything, it was a superb job. WEDNESDAY, MAY 26, 2004 – The Taste of New Zealand Wine Fairs, held at Alice Fazooli’s, presented some 130 wines for sampling, along with a great variety of cheese and fruits. The catalogue was terrific in detail, with appropriate names and addresses of agents, wineries, with cross-references, etc. The only complaint was the continual NZ screened wine logo at the bottom of every other page; it was difficult to read the name of the wine (and, later, my own notes on that wine). The range went from one (Voss Estate’s Pinot Noir and Mount Riley’s Sauvignon Blanc) to eight (Matakana Estate). Robert Ketchin also provided a “price and availability guide”, a great idea that other trade shows should notice. As with all other wine shows, this trade event was a walkaround and not very conducive to ruminating about a wine (no space, no time, so many wines, etc.). But I am grateful for the advance catalogue which allowed me to “study” and strategize…Here are some personal choices (as always, I did not taste everything): from Babich (PR Canada) there was a useful off-dry East Coast Chardonnay 2002; Coopers Creek (Noble Estates) had its proprietary fantasy named Fat Cat Chardonnay, Cats Pee on a Gooseberry Bush Sauvignon Blanc, and Glamour Puss Pinot Noir; Fairhall Downs (MCO) showed its light but tropical Chardonnay Marlborough 2003; the Grove Mill (Edwards) Chardonnay Marlborough 2001 was more fullish; the Herzog (Hobbs) Pinot Noir 2002 Marlborough ($49.95) and Merlot/Cabernet 2000 ($55.65) were definitely upscale but not out-of-place at the show which also featured the Stonyridge Larose Waiheke Island 2002 (a bordeaux blend with all five varieties, including 27% malbec) at $99 from Classics; Oyster Bay (Maxxium) Chardonnay Marlborough 2002 was full, firm, and needed food; Saint Clair (Wine World) Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2002 was lightly aromatic and herby; Staete Landt (Lifford) Chardonnay Marlborough 2002 showed good detail and elegance; The Crossings (Authentic) “Catherine’s Run” Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley Marlborough 2002 was a reserve level, with good depth to the finish; Villa Maria (PMA) Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley Marlborough 2003 had a delicious goosey-grassy feel, with a longer engaging finish; Waimea (D.A.Lowe) The Hill Nelson 2001 was a cabernet sauvignon and franc blend, coming out in Vintages in the Fall 2004, some ripeness showing; Wither Hills (Lifford) Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2003 was served at lunch, and it was full of flavours for the seafood (July 2004 Vintages), and the Chardonnay Marlborough 2002 was full, ripe, rich and warm in tone. Other biggies included a number of pinot noirs over $35, plus some scattered reds (Matua Estate Merlot at $29.95, Villa Maria Reserve Merlot Cabernet at $45.95). Nevertheless, most wines were in the $15 to $25 range, and all affordable. THURSDAY, MAY 27, 2004 – FWP Trading put on a grand show mid-afternoon at Opus for CARM (Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira), a Douro family firm. Filipe de Albuquerque Roboredo Madeira came over to present the wines. Also for sampling were two organic olive oils, Grand Eschola ($14 500mL) and Praemium ($15 500mL). Here are some notes on the four wines shown (all on consignment): - Quinta da Urze Tinta Roriz 2002 Douro ($22.50): made from only the one grape (tinta roriz), fresh and fruity but with an engaging finish and some wood tones, ready soon. Raspberries and vanilla, only a small portion in US oak. - CARM Classico 2001 Douro ($26.45): a step up in quality (more than just a few dollars would warrant, made from touriga nacional, tinta roriz, and touriga franca. Black fruit dominates. Unfiltered, half in US oak, soft wood spices. - CARM Reserva 2001 Douro ($34.35): this is only the third vintage for this wine, my personal favourite of the tasting. It is tightly wound but opened over a period of time, good oaking, developing well, but lightly elegant. Same grapes as the Classico. Half the wine matured in US and French oak (about 50 - 50) for a year, unfiltered. Some mocha quality. - CARM Praemium 2000 Douro ($40.15): top end wine, made from only the two touriga grape varieties. Almost al the wine aged for a year in Allier oak. Unfiltered, plummy tones, elegant wood and muted vanilla spices. Needs time to develop. For more details, contact Pedro or Arlindo at FWP Trading fwptradinginc.on@on.aibn.com ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH ====================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com - Antiquarian McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Limited Edition ($74.10 licensee, private order +840876 from Le Sommelier, 416-603- 7026): at this price level we expect something, and we get it – 2 years in French (75%) and US (25%) oak, 13.5% alcohol, only made in better years. Ripe black fruit, woody spices and vanilla, dense, mocha highlights. Tasted over a few days, evolved nicely, never faded. 250 cases produced. - Vinarium Gere Thomas Villanyi Kekfrankos 2002 (Hungary, +963702, $13.95 Vintages) is a tannic, robust, rustic red, meant for BBQ season in North America. - Budai Cuvee 2002 Nyakas Prince (Hungary, +936476, $11.95), made from chardonnay and local irsai oliver grapes, showing some tropical fruit with a citric finish, great for summer. - Sunnybrook Farm Blueberry (+506972, $18.85 at the winery or by mail 905-468-1122): Gold Medal at the All Canadian Wine Championships, 100% Ontario blueberry, medium body, off-dry, SC=4, probably best with hard cheeses or as aperitif. Deep fruit flavours followed by spices. - Sunnybrook Farm Black Raspberry (+551127, $23.45): Trophy for Best Canadian Fruit Wine at All Canadian Wine Championships, 100% Ontario black raspberry, medium body, SC=5, best with hard cheeses or desserts or just after dinner. Intense fruit flavours, some chocolate tones, great finish. - Cant. Bartolomeo da Breganze (Veneto) Vespaiolo Superiore DOC 2003 ($18.75, private order through Vino Allegro 416-698-8822 or wine@vinoallegro.com): easy drinking summer wine, although 13% alcohol. Almond tones dominate from this Veneto local grape variety, extremely aromatic, also good for first course or aperitif. - Breganze Vespaiolo Frizzante IGT ($16 private order from Vino Allegro): same local grape, but more lively with its off-dry lightly sparkling complexity of almonds and citric tones. 11% alcohol. Refreshing. - Breganze Torcolato DOC Vino Passito 1999 (500 mL, $44.85 private order from Vino Allegro): vespaiolo again, this time dried in little cases until January, when they are pressed. Slow fermentation, controlled temperatures, residual sugars, yet high alcohol of 13%. More almonds, citric tones, plus honey. Nougat in a bottle….Dessert, obviously. - Breganze San Giorgio Dolce (Malvasia Istriana and Moscato) IGT ($21.40 private order from Vino Allegro): an NV dessert wine, sort of like a late harvest, with the muscat dominating. Made from partially withered grapes, aged in Acacia wood barriques. 12.5% alcohol. - Breganze Savardo Pinot Nero 2002 ($18.75 private order from Vino Allegro): another easy drinking light pinot noir from Italy, very useful for summer consumption or as an all-purpose red with fish or turkey. 13% alcohol. - DuBoeuf Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Special Reserve Vin du Pays D’Oc (General List Fall 2004, +602664, $10.70): I have my doubts about the “Special Reserve” at this price level. Nevertheless, a quick and easy refreshing sipper, released – as typical of the LCBO – too late for the best season. Maybe the 2003 will be here by then. - Domaine Boyar Chardonnay 2002 Bulgaria (+428540 GL, $7.20): good value at this price level, hits the fruit and wood tones nicely. - Sutter Home sauvignon Blanc 2002 California (+327890 GL, $8.95): decent sipper and fooder, refreshing, good finish for a modestly-priced California wine. 13.5% alcohol. - Baden Cellars Gewurztraminer 2002 Baden, Germany (+336735, $9.35): very good gewürztraminer intensity for the price. - Malesan Bordeaux Blanc 2002 (+589085, $11.50): half sauvignon blanc, 40% Semillon, balance muscadelle, and aged in French oak for six months. A bargain at this price for a quality food wine. How do they do it? - Chateau Clos de la Tour 2001 Bordeaux Rouge 2001 (+264986 GL, $13.75): another red bordeaux, which engaged me, longish ripe finish. - Indaba Shiraz 2003 South Africa (+30384 GL, $9.95): off-dry fruity, good wine for sipping at the patio/deck/cottage. - Calvet XF Bordeaux Rouge 2002 (+636944 GL, $10.95): “XF” means extra fruit (i.e., concentration and extract). Nevertheless, a good price for the wine. - Da Luca Primitivo-Merlot Tarantino IGT Puglia 2002 (+588970 GL, $9.95): a BBQ wine, with the primitivo (zinfandel) being softened by the hot climate overripe merlot. Off-dry fruity, 14% alcohol. - Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2002 Chile (+568055 GL, $10.95): completely aged in small US oak for eight months, showing its Rhonish quality (blackberries, plums, pepper) plus oak toast. Great for the BBQ. A bargain at this price level. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR APRIL 2004 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com MONDAY, APRIL 5, 2004 – Caliber Fine Wines and Spirits, in association with Luna Vineyards/Baileyanna Winery, held a media preview wine tasting and dinner at Via Allegro Ristorante. Dick Wallingford, the London UK-based Export Manager for Luna led us through the tasting. He was in town for the 2004 California Wine Fair (see below, next day), along with his Ontario agent, Sandy Garofalo from Caliber. 12 different wines are available from the wineries, but we were only able to sample five of them at the dinner. Six of the others were going to be at the show. Chef Lino Collevecchio’s seven-course meal began with seared sea scallops followed by four slices of in-house duck breast (prosciutto- style) with orzo salad. Accompanying wines included Luna Pinot Grigio 2002 Napa ($29.80, Alsatian model of concentration, soft marmalade, honeyed tones, and small used French oak, hot finish) and Baileyanna Grand Firepeak Cuvee Chardonnay 2001 Edna Valley ($37.45, crisp, burgundian assertiveness, long lingering finish of 14.1% alcohol). Next up was Via Allegro’s award winning risotto con funghi (Vialone Nano risotto simmered with five or more mushrooms, finished with a porcini cream and a piedmontese white truffle oil), followed by a Chilean sea bass with berries and barley. We tasted the Baileyanna Grand Firepeak Cuvee Pinot Noir 2001 Edna Valley ($47.95, burgundian assertiveness in style, French oak of course, very mouthfilling in balance against the risotto), plus we retasted all the previous white wines. The overall winner here, for me, was the Pinot Grigio. A glace passion fruit sorbet came out, one of the few times a palate-cleansing sorbet was actually not cloyingly sweet (when did this sweet madness begin in Toronto? about 1995?). The main course was the restaurant’s venison specialty: 9 ounces of well-trimmed organic chop with lentils, pear shallot custard and various fruit sauces. This went up against the Luna Sangiovese 2001 Napa ($32.55, with 2% merlot; a very ripe wine with the merlot tones actually floating and dancing on the top) and the Luna Canto 2000 Napa ($62.40, a blend of five grapes [sangiovese 53%, merlot 22, cabernet franc 14, syrah 6, and cabernet sauvignon 5 – subject to changes each vintage] all co-fermented with wild yeasts for harmony; it was soft, fruity, ripe tannins, and restaurant-ready now). All the Luna wines use organic principles with no added sulphur. For more details on availability of the wines, check out www.winevintages.com or call Sandy at 905-761-8316. TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 – The 12th Annual “Toast to California” Trade Luncheon was held in the Imperial Room at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel. It kicked off with a sparkling wine reception (Gloria Ferrer, Mumm, Cook, Schramsberg). Then we all moved inside to a scrumptious feast with accompanying wines. The wines all depended on where you sat. The media were scattered. I drew Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (herbal firmness, almost fume style), Renwood Barbera Amador 2001 (slightly bitter finish as in Italian barbera), Renwood Old Vines Zinfandel Amador 2001 (oaky, full fruited), Domaine Carneros Taittinger Chardonnay Brut 2000, and Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir 2001. The first course was an engaging scallop and shrimp skewer on a grain mustard emulsion, followed by the main sour cherry beef tenderloin (with a ragout of mushrooms and white beans) plus assorted cooked greens. The cheese course produced a Gouda, sage derby, St.Agur blue, and morbier. Andy Brandt, LCBO chair, spoke on the need for a product’s quality, price, presentation, promotion and representation. No argument there, except that I would like to add “selection” and “availability”… So would many other people… TUESDAY, APRIL 6, 2004 – The 24th annual California Wine Fair landed in Toronto today, at the Fairmont Royal York hotel. We had less than two and a half hours to sample over 350 wines from about 100 wineries. Needless to say, I could not cover everything. Luckily, I was able to attend the pre-tasting and sample 70 wines, a mere one-fifth of the total. My strategy today was to touch base with a few key players, and to only sample the expensive wines. For years, I have been going through this fair – and all the others – by varietal, sometimes whites, often reds. And from booth to booth in order. This year I went from wine to wine because many run out after the first hour or so. I spent a lot of time rinsing my glass and hydrating. Did I do it all? No…So the wines I was impressed with included: - Arrowood Sonoma County Chardonnay 2002 and its Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Viognier 2002 (a killer of excellence, at $52.75); - Beaulieu Vineyards BV Tapestry Reserve 1999; - Bell Wine Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa (with added franc and merlot); - Beringer Chardonnay Napa 2001; - Bonny Doon Cardinal Zin “Beastly Old Vines” 2002; - Clos du Bois “Marlstone” Alexander Valley 1999 (bordeaux-style); - Dolce Napa Valley 2000 (late harvest); - Franciscan Oakville Estate Magnificat 2000 Napa; - Simi Landslide Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Alexander Valley; - Far Niente Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2002 Napa; - Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa; - Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1999; - Ironstone Sierra Foothills Reserve Cabernet Franc 1999; - Justin Vineyards Isoceles 2000 Paso Robles; - Morgan Monterey Chardonnay 2001; - Nichols Merlot Vinas del Sol 1999; - Nichols Meritage Vinas del Sol & Cienega Vineyards 1999; - Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley, 1998, 1999, 2000 – a great chance for a mini-vertical; - Rosenthal Merlot Malibu Newton Canyon 1999; - Shafer Merlot 2001 Napa; For more details about any of these wines, or the California Wine Fair in general, contact the Wine Institute of California (Canada) at calwine@sympatico.ca THURSDAY, APRIL 15, 2004 – Vincor held its Toronto launching of its new BC VQA wine at the Hotel Toronto. Named “Osoyoos Larose”, it is the product of a partnership between Bordeaux’s Groupe Taillon (think Chateau Gruaud-Larose) and Vincor. This premium wine is made in the South Okanagan Valley. Groupe Taillon is France’s largest producer of Appellation Controllee wines from many different regions; Vincor is North America’s fourth largest producer. “Osoyoos” refers to the location of the vineyards which were planted as rootstock in 1999, just north of the US border, and on western slopes (good air drainage, minimal rainfall, intense sunlight). The launch was attended by the media, sommeliers, and restaurateurs. There was a tutored tasting team, with reps from both partners and Pascal Madevon, the winemaker (and former winemaker at Chateau La Tour Blanche in Bordeaux). We sampled five wines: the 2001 (made from only two year old vines) plus barrel samples of a petit verdot/cabernet franc blend, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and merlot all from 2003. The 2003 component tasting was very instructive. PV/CF was ok, not exciting; malbec was tight; cab. sauv. was crisp and developing, while the merlot was smooth, with a satin finish. And, of course, I mixed the leftovers of my glasses to produce my own cuvee blend (rough but delicious). The 2001 bottling was 66% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 9% cabernet franc. Other years will of course change, depending on the circumstances of the vintage. The 2001 was aged 16 months in French oak (used and new), bottled at the end of April 2003. The wine I tried was soft and fruity (black fruit), good depth, engaging on the back palate, obviously merlot-based, perhaps even in a St.Julien style for the North American market. Only 2200 cases made, it currently sells for $35 a bottle. This is a bargain price. Contact your Vincor rep today…. TUESDAY, APRIL 20, 2004 – An extremely rare wine tasting occurred today at the head offices of Philippe Dandurand. The agent had three export directors come in from the Salon tasting held in Montreal on the previous weekend, to exhibit their wares from some of the less-traveled appellations in France. First up was Nicholas Reble, from Guilbaud Freres in the Loire (they produce some 4 million bottles a year). He was introducing his Le Soleil Nantais 2003 (Muscadet sur lie, about $13, being pitched to the LCBO) with its netting packaging. It was a dry, light, clean white, a summer sipper, delicate, but leaning towards aperitif status. The Sancerre Les Chenes Vieux 2002, about $25, was not as aggressively acidic as some other sancerres. Good depth and intensity to the smokey finish, definitely an aperitif wine, provoking the appetite. The Rose de Loire Le Pre Chatain 2003, about $9.70, had a long engaging finish from the cabernet grapes used (a minimum of 30% each year, more if needed). The Cochard Domaine de Mihoudy Anjou 2002 ($13, being pitched) was fresh and fruity, a bit of a franc backbite on the finish but overall soft on the palate. The St.Nicholas de Bourgueil Les Charmantes 2001 ($16 estimated) was 100% cabernet franc, and showed a good franc hit on the palate. Next was Diane Germain, daughter of the winemaker Patrick Germain, and Export Manager for Chateau Bellevue La Foret (Cotes du Frontonnais). Bellevue was originally brought into Ontario by Michel Reichart. Its availability has been scattered since. But 70% of total production is exported, and the biggest market is Quebec. Three of her five wines that we sampled are in the Quebec marketplace. The only one in Ontario is La Selection Cotes du Frontonnais 2001 (+927012, $14.95 at Vintages): it is from old vines, about half negrette, a third syrah, and the balance cabernet franc and sauvignon. Negrette is unique to Fronton, and is capable of expressing clean freshness based on berry fruit. Each grape was vinified separately and then aged one year in year old barrels. I found this wine had a tannic finish, some tartness close to cranberry, but overall a North American style in appeal. Other wines tried – Chateau Bellevue La Foret Rose 2003 is 30% of its total production. It is half negrette, a third syrah, a sixth gamay. Good texture, slightly of-dry on the palate (residual, house-style), refreshing but food would be an asset. The Chateau Bellevue La Foret Rouge 2001, about half negrette, one- quarter cabernets, one-quarter syrah and gamay, shows a good cabby hit, softened by the fruitiness of the negrette. It has some bordeaux character too, showing some leafy tobacco and black fruit. La Cuvee Or Rouge 2002 has about 30% cabernets, but also has no wood exposure. Fruity and harmonious. Optimum 2001 is the highlight of the company, a reserve-level wine, one third negrette, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon. 60% of the wine is aged over a year in a mix of new and old oak. Plummy, lovely fruit, deeply aromatic, pleasing on the palate but still could use more time in cellaring. In Quebec, this wine sells for $25.85. Our last tutor was Jean-Marie Suavet, Export Manager for Georges Vigouroux dba Atrium. Based in Cahors, the company has five chateaux and a range of domains from South-west appellations (Buzet, Jurancon, Madiran, Fronton, Gaillac, Bergerac, Monbazillac). Today we just concentrated on three. First up was Chateau Haute Serre Cahors 2001, 86% auxerrois, 7% merlot, and 7% tannat. We were also told that Cahors was phasing out the tannat grape (perhaps leaving it up to Uruguay to go it alone?). This wine is coming to Vintages in October 2004, +693952, $20: smokey but also fresh, with both stewed and dried fruit tones, spices on the finish. Chateau de Mercues 2000 (+925479, $19.95 in Vintages) was both flashy and fleshy, showing good length. It had about the same mix of grapes. We also sampled the 2001, which was tight and needed more time to show its fruit. Domaine de Poujo Madiran 1999 was released May 8, 2004 (+145024, $14.95); its blend was about two-thirds Tannat, with the balance being cabernets. Floral nose, broad flavours on mid-palate, a bit coarse (still young) but with good follow-through. The cabernets contributed an herbal component. The 2001 vintage will appear in fall 2005 (+693952, $15 est.). The wine requires a long aging period to come around. For more information on availability and selection, contact Philippe Dandurand Wines at 416- 368-3344. TUESDAY, APRIL 20, 2004 – Antonio Bissaia Barretto, Director-General of Niepoort Vinhos (Portugal) came to the Crush Wine Bar. FWP Trading is the agent in Ontario, and they put on a fine show in this walkaround. Scrumptious foods were offered by the Crush team. Niepoort wines are based on Niepoort’s old vines from vineyards at Quinta do Carril and Quinta de Napoles in Tedo Valley. We sampled Redoma White 2001 (no longer available) and 2002 ($28.25 via consignment). It is based on the gouveio and rabigato grapes (the same grapes as in the White Port), with BF in 40% new oak followed by a year on the lees. It has semi- tropical peachy freshness; it was delicious. Redoma Rose 2001 ($18.50 via consignment) is comparable to Tavel. Off-dry, some residual sugar on the mid-palate, 13.5% alcohol. Saigne technique for 60% of the production; rest are from early picked tinta amarela. There is some BA and three months barrel aging in new oak. A real winner for summer, try to get some soon before it is all gone…Redoma Red 2000 is big and rustic in its early life and should be capable of finesse with age. It has rich cherry tones. The 200, dense and chunky heavy blend, is no longer available. But we sampled it. The 2001 ($53.50 via private order) was more fruity, just as dense, some wood, and maturing more rapidly. Vertente 2000 ($34.20 via consignment) was lightweight but aromatic. It is a new style red, using Burgundy wine as its model. The Batuta 2000 was a deep, dense red based on tinta amarela, aged for 18 months in new oak. It should develop well but needs to be cellared. Unfortunately, for us, it was no longer available. The Batuta 2001 ($96 via private order) is the next vintage. Only 4,000 bottles are produced. FWP has snapped about 15 cases for the Ontario market. Well- worth a taste. There were three fortifieds: the Niepoort White Port ($17.70 via consignment) which is one of the better versions, with some oak tones, made from the same grapes as the phenomenal Redoma White. Serve over ice. The Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage 1998 ($27.10, Vintages September 2004) was bright on the palate, and unfiltered. There is also a Niepoort Vintage Secundum Port 2001 ($45 via private order). Details on all of these wines, and other exacting Portuguese wines, are available from Pedro or Arlindo at Food & Wines of Portugal 416-487-6153 or www.winesofportugal.ca THURSDAY, APRIL 22, 2004 – Rick Sayre, Chief Winemaker for Rodney Strong Vineyards, visited Toronto to lead tastings, a dinner, and make pitches at the LCBO. On May 8, 2004, Vintages released two Rodney Strong wines. The dinner added more wines to taste. We had a one-on-one at Scrivener Square LCBO, tasting some five wines. Mark Anthony Wines is the Ontario agent. Rick cut his winemaking teeth at Simi before taking over at Rodney Strong. He has control over 1200 acres of vineyards and half a million cases. 70% of this production comes from long-term contracts. He has twice as much inventory for the reserves and late bottlings as for the regular premium wines. He makes 14 different wines in all (3 chardonnay, 4 cabernet sauvignon, others with merlot and zinfandel and pinot noir). Here are some notes: - Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2001 Sonoma, 13.8% alcohol, with 400 cases at Vintages: one of my favourite chardonnays, I always buy it whenever I can. From the RR Russian River Valley, it is also RR restaurant- ready. Different lots are in the blends. 100% MF, 43% BA. Citric tones and vanilla. $19.95. - Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Sonoma, 13.8% alcohol, with 300 cases at Vintages, $24.95. Unfortunately, the press was not offered the opportunity to taste this wine at the LCBO tasting lab. But here, with Rick, it showed its soft cassis suppleness. Principally from the Alexander Valley (86% cabernet sauvignon, rest merlot, cabernet franc, petite sirah, syrah), and ready for the diner. - Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Alexander’s Crown, 13.5% alcohol, $45. Fall/Winter Classics 2004. Some BF, almost two years in 74% French oak/26% new US oak. 1% merlot added. Mammoth wine, full taste and extended finish. Expect plumminess, sweet spices, even some underbrush. - Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Alden Vineyard, 13.9% alcohol, $52.60, only 3000 cases made. Available in Vintages October/November 2004. Aged two years in 78% new US oak, balance new French oak. 5% merlot added. Red fruit and berries dominate, slight mint on the finish. Elevation over 300 metres. Made since 1991. - Rodney Strong Symmetry 1999 Alexander Valley, 13.9% alcohol, $80. Fall/Winter 2004 Classics. First made in 1996. A Meritage wine with 61% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 10% cabernet franc. Aged two years in half French and half US oak, some new. Only the best wines are used here, selected after barrel aging. Wines are aged for two years in bottle before being released. The profile is one of black fruits (cassis, plums, even dark chocolate), dense, tannic fruit at this point (coats the palate), but good integration of everything. Bodes well for the future. For more details, check with Dan Shorrocks of Mark Anthony at 905-238- 6731 or dshorrocks@markanthony.com THURSDAY, APRIL 27, 2004 – The Italian Trade Commission produced the 4th annual “Naturalemente Italiano”, a day-long tasting of DOP specialty foods. It opened with an Olive Oil tasting seminar workshop, mid- morning, with Fabrizio Vignolini, director of ONAOO (Italian organization of Olive Oil Tasters). This was a talk on using and cooking with olive oil, matching the right oil for the right cuisine. There was a long talk at the Carlu, explaining the quality levels of the olive oils from Italy. This was followed by definitions and labeling requirements. We were told what to look for amongst the oils from different regions, and then applied it to some six oils from Molise, Bari, Umbria, Calabria. This was extremely informative with up- to-the-minute facts and figures. THURSDAY, APRIL 27, 2004 – The Naturalmente Italiano returned to Toronto for the fourth time, now at the Carlu. This walkaround trade show managed to combine DOP specialty foods with DOC wines. Over 50 producers from 15 regions came, with 200 wines and about 100 different foods (mostly olive oils). Just about everybody was looking for a local agent or importer. The lunch was cooked and provided by Romagna Mia, and it embraced many of the products available today. Of course, I concentrated on the wines available. As I scanned the catalogue, I soon realized that this was turning into a mini-Lombardia wine fair. There were seven wineries showing their various Valtellinas and Valellina Sforzato (using nebbiolo as would treated in the amarone drying process). Other regions included Piedmont, Puglia and Sicily, amongst others. I enjoyed the vast array of proseccos, chiantis and Barolos. I was disappointed in some of the whites, particularly chardonnay and gavi. I was surprised to see Stefania Pepe from Abruzzo (my ancestral home). Her wines are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but not the inexpensive quaffers: these are the dynamic “reserves” to die for, especially the 1997 and 1998. Great barrel treatment, but they are not cheap. Taking care of things takes time and money. She was last here at a trade show in the ROM about six years ago. Of the Lombardy wines, I was drawn to the Valtellinas of Pietro Nera (agent: Torion), who had two stunning Sforzatos from 1999, both exhibiting chocolate tones. Aldo Rainoldi’s Valtellina Sfursat 2000 Fruttato Ca’Rizzieri was ripe and fruity, great density and complexity, and $78 from Wine Online (416-894-1132). Salis 1637’s Valtellina Sforzato 2001 Canua was also good to try (Wine Lovers Agency, 416-566-9463). TUESDAY, APRIL 27, 2004 – Earth Day and Sustainable Cuisine was celebrated today and tonight at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel. Sustainable cuisine, a culinary philosophy and al life style based on seasonal and local organic foods, sustainable agriculture and healthy living choices, was introduced to hotel restaurant diners through the “Fairmont Cooks with John Ash” menu, beginning on Earth Day, April 22, 2004. Chef John Ash, already involved in a book promotion tour (see my review of “John Ash: cooking one-on-one” in next month’s food and wine books section), visited EPIC for a spectacular winemaker launch dinner. The six-course degustation menu, created jointly with Chef Ash and Chef Jean-Charles Dupoire of EPIC, featured ahi tuna tartar, chicken and coconut milk soup, soy roasted salmon, filet of beef, and apple jack tart. It was $85 ($125 with wine) per person, and runs through May 20. On this occasion, though, we had a special double chef menu for the launch. The five course dinner, opening with spectacular appetizers at the bar, was paired with Bonterra Vineyards organic wines. Bonterra is part of Fetzer, and Chef Ash has been Culinary Director of Fetzer since 1990. In 1999, he was named Dean of the Brown-Forman Center for Global Wine Education. Tonight, after a mid-day cooking demonstration, he was one of the diners at the delightful launch dinner. In addition to “organic” wines, Bonterra also tries for an environmentally-conscious package: everything is made with recycled glass or paper, soy based inks, etc. Shippers are made from recycled paper. With the appetizers came the Bonterra Merlot 2001 Mendocino (October 2004 Vintages, +984724, est. $22: with some added cabernet sauvignon and syrah, red fruit and vanilla, clean, soft, balanced, fruity finish, useful for appetizers or sippers) and the Bonterra Chardonnay 2002 Mendocino (Vintages Essential, +342428, $20.95: clean, woody, balanced, longer length) which was also served with the main meal. First up was a warm Muscovy duck breast salad, fat free, tender, with a vinaigrette and Asian spices. It went with Bonterra Syrah 2000 Mendocino (14% alcohol) October 2004 Vintages, $20.95: light nose, stylistic with the duck but actually better with the lamb as the wine opened up). Next was the rich Nova Scotia crab and kaffir lime leaf-ginger soup, perfectly matched with the Bonterra Viognier 2002 Mendocino (13.5% alcohol, $20.95, private order from the agent Charton-Hobbs: peaches, honeysuckle, some oak tones from the older French oak). Between courses, Chef Ash discussed his philosophy and answered questions; he seemed to alternate with David Smuck, EPIC’s sommelier, who spoke on the pairing of the wines. Two sea scallops were introduced, seared atop a sautéed julienne of spring vegetables and a charred sweet corn emulsion. The Bonterra Chardonnay (13% alcohol) returned, and fitted in nicely with the residual toastiness of the seafood. The main was an organic Ontario rack of lamb (Rowe) with a sundried cherry sauce and crispy parsnip. The wine was Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 North Coast (14% alcohol, Vintages Essentials +342436, $19.95: with small amounts of merlot and syrah from Mendocino and Lake counties, black fruit forward tones, some vanilla spices). I was lucky that I had saved my Merlot and my Syrah to try against the Cabernet Sauvignon and the lamb. There was no clear cut winner; I enjoyed them all. But the Syrah had grown in the glass while the Merlot had remained the same. Who knows about the Cabernet? There was no time to let it open up…With dessert (a raspberry infused truffle cake [liquid chocolate inside] with a caramel sauce, we had the Bonterra Muscat 2002 Lake County ($14.95 the half-bottle, private order from the agent). There are two other Bonterra wines on limited release: we did not get to try the Roussanne nor the Marsanne. They should be in the same style as the Viognier (all three grapes originated in the Rhone Valley). It was a delightful evening, I was sorry it had to end. Although I had never personally met him, Chef John Ash is a favourite chef of my wife and me: we have his books and use them constantly. THURSDAY, APRIL 29, 2004 – It was Alsatian wine day at the mother ship of the Mandarin Restaurant chain. At least, that is how it was described to me by Sopexa, one of the sponsoring agencies. The Alsace Wine Council launched a partnership with some of Toronto’s Asian restaurants to promote the merits of matching Asian food with Alsatian wines. This has long been the case, but now it is official. The off-dry wines from such grapes as Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer seem perfectly matched. The promotion is for nine weeks, from April 29 to June 30, 2004. Thirty restaurants are involved, from the GTA to Hamilton to London. Most are high end or upscale. Indeed, the Mandarin itself will be offering six wines by the bottle, at $27.70 each, with three by the glass. According to statistics, 22,000 cases of Alsatian wines were sold in Ontario, up TWO-THIRDS in sales over the past five years. At the launch, with food supplied by the Mandarin and other restaurants (sushi, curry, pad thai), we tasted: - Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer Reserve 2002, $19.95 Vintages in July: broad sweetness and loads of spices, good bitterness on the finish (Authentic). - Domaine du Bollenberg Pinot Gris 2002, with bananas and tropical fruit, off-dry on mid-palate (Lexellent). - Hugel Muscat 2001: very aromatic, long off-dry finish (Halpern) - Dopff & Irion Sylvaner 2002: very useful, all-purpose (Maxxium) - Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2001: some acidity suggesting citric tones (Philippe Dandurand) - Pierre Sparr Riesling 2002: from a value-driven producer, some riesling tang on the finish (Barrique) Other wines, not part of the Mandarin promotion, included Dopff & Irion Gewurztraminer 2002, Trimbach Riesling 2001 (good petrol), Hugel Gentil 2002 (interesting aromatic blend), Bollenberg Riesling 2002 and Bollenberg Gewurztraminer 2001, Rolly Gassmann Auxerrois 1999 (loaded with finishing flavours), Leon Beyer’s Pinot Gris 2002 and Riesling 2002 and Cuvee Leon Beyer 2001 (a blend), Kuhlmann Platz Pinot Gris 2001 and Riesling 2002, plus a Pinot Noir 2002 for the red wine fans, and Paul Blanck Pinot Gris 2001 and Gewurztraminer 2002 (both about $27 and well-worth it). Overall, the Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminers worked best with the food we were presented with. The Pinot Noir was nice too, but it needs to be slightly chilled. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MARCH 2004 ======================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com WEDNESDAY, MARCH 3, 2004 – Vintners from Washington State, led by Bob Betz (a Master of Wine) presented a Red Star Rising tutored tasting and seminar of seven leading Washington merlot wines, beginning mid-day at Crush Wine Bar, in the CVA room. Actually, we began with a few others to whet our whistles. These were labeled as Washington Value Wines. They included Covey Run Fume Blanc 2002 (Churchill, $13.95: refreshing patio wine, no real herbal snap; don’t over chill or you’ll overkill), Columbia Crest Grand Estate Chardonnay 2001 (Charton Hobbs, $18.95: succulent nose, warm vanilla, lush and plush on the palate, buttery, long length), Hogue Riesling 2001 (Vincor, $12.95: burnt sugar nose, off-dry palate, generous style, patio wine), Hedges CMS 2002 (Noble, $19.45: fruity, of- dry nose, dense, full on palate but too young, difficult to pick out tones beyond chocolate and black fruit, some toast), Chateau Ste. Michelle Syrah 2000 (Charton Hobbs, $19.55: bacon nose, chunky palate, full, firm and developing). We tried seven merlots: * Sunset Road Merlot 2002 from Columbia Valley, $8US, slight nose, velvet soft palate, some smoke and fruit, modest finish, some anise later. * Sagelands Merlot 2001, $14US, oak nose, oak dominates palate and finish but dissipates soonish. * Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2000, $19.95 (Charton Hobbs): soft, elegant at first, longer finish, seductive but medium body, good food wine. * Chateau Ste.Michelle Merlot Columbia Valley 2001 Indian Road District, $40 (Charton Hobbs): plummy nose, good aging, substantial in the mouth, needs food. Became more complex as it opened up. Best wine of the seminar in terms of price. * Hogue Genesis Merlot 2001, $19.95 (Vincor): soft fruit, some acetic acid, off bottle? * Hedges Three Vineyards 2001, $31 (Noble): hot wine, took a long time to open up, tannic. * Northstar Merlot 2000, $89.95: warm vanilla nose, well centered on the palate, European in style, gobs of ripe fruit, at its peak. After the seminar, we went upstairs to the actual Washington Wine Fair itself. Fifteen wineries showcased a wide range of wines in Toronto, with the obvious focus on merlot and other cabernet family members. The attractive tasting booklet had basic, thumbnail data about Washington State and both red and white wines. The show was also in Vancouver, which had more wineries pouring. Here we had a range from Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest (both repped by Charton Hobbs), Covey Run (repped by Churchill), Hedges (Noble Estates), Hogue (Vincor), Seven Hills (New World Wines), Waterbrook and Woodward Canyon (both repped by Barrique). A number of wineries were here seeking agents, such wineries as Canoe Ridge, Hoodsport, McCrea, Silverlake, and Sunset Road. Crush Wine Bar provided excellent munchies for appreciating the wines. For more details about Washington State wines, contact julian@colettaconsultants.ca FRIDAY, MARCH 5, 2004 – The Case for Wine (416-482-0241 or info@thecaseforwine.com) put on a “Three Growers, Three Regions of France” tasting today at the Royal Canadian Military Institute. Jean-Francois Bordet of Domaine Seguinot-Bordet (Chablis), Philippe Lamarque of Chateau Puynormand (Montagne-St Emilion), and Didier Cabanes of Chateau St. Germain (Languedoc) were pouring and commenting on their wines at this walkaround. There was also food to sample and to refresh the palate. All wines were available for net purchase by the case. Here are some notes (prices fluctuate as Euro does): * Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2002 (6 x $25.96) came from sixty-seven year old vines, showing remarkable length in its elegance. * Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Premier Cru Forchaume 2002 (6 x $32.08) featured some good balance between fruit and steeliness, with an equally long finish. * Ch. Puynormand 1998 (6 x 424.84) and 2000 (6 x $24.42) are both 90% merlot with equal parts cabernet sauvignon and franc. They are rich, full, ripe and ready, although the 2000 is somewhat fuller and tarter, but more engaging with food. Toasty and slight herbs. * Château Saint Germain 2002 ($16.65) was my favourite wines of the tasting. It was 70% syrah, 25% grenache, 5% Mourvedre, no wood aging, about 13.5% alcohol. It was fresh, full, and fruity, made by biodynamie principles. An excellent blend, with good integration of syrah and grenache. The 1996 is also on offer ($18.23), again no wood, and shows great aging for a 1996. * Chateau Saint Germain No. 5 Clos Saint Martin 2000 (6 x $38.21), 15% alcohol, plummy nose, hot finish, mounds of extract, Troncais oak, lots of syrah character. TUESDAY, MARCH 9, 2004 – The California Wine Fair held a Toronto Media Preview Tasting at Crush Wine Bar, mid-day. About 73 wines were sampled, and none of them were Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot. My, how times have changed. So we had 10 Chardonnays, 10 Pinot noirs, 10 Zinfandel, 29 Cabernet Sauvignons, and 14 other wines. Here were my top picks, all tasted blind: *Talus Vineyards Pinot Grigio 2003 (Churchill, $11.25 General): a good value wine, with plenty of tang and suggestive of food rather than sipping. * Stonehedge Chardonnay 2001 (VinVino, $16.95 consignment): mute nose but elegance and good length on the palate, balance of wood and fruit, food wine. * J.Lohr Riverstone Arroyo Seco 2002 (Barrique, $20.10 General): good integration and development, light apples and wood, some vanilla tones. * Ironstone Zinfandel Reserve Lodi 2001 ($40.99 consignment, Lifford Agencies): syrah-like, with chocolate and leather, off-dry finish. * Cline Cellars Zinfandel Ancient Vines 2002 (Torion, $23.50 Vintages Fall 2004): chocolate, ripe and full, excellent price. * Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2001 (Maxxium, $24.95 Vintages July 2004 for the 2000 vintage): elegance with full nose and cabernet snap, right through to the finish. * Trinchero Family Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Corby, $18.95 General): minty, a bit of candy nose, cherry-berry, fruity finish, great for patio. * Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa 1998 (Maxxium, $169.75 Vintages): Euro mode through good aging, long finish in its development, but still austere. * Bell Wine Cabernet Sauvignon Baritelle Vineyard Napa 1999 (Barrique, $96.95 Classics for 2000 vintage): warm cassis sweetness, some age showing, fruit on mid-palate, long engaging finish. * Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 1999 (Prevedello and Mathews, $44.95 Vintages Fall 2004 for 2000): tons of cassis followed by a long finish, needs food. Thanks to Paula and Rick for putting on this preview tasting! WEDNESDAY, MARCH 17, 2004 – Time for all that green wine from Oregon…not! So we began Saint Paddie’s day with white (pinot gris, chardonnay) and red (pinot noir) at the Preview Tasting for the Oregon Wine Festival. March is turning out to be quite the Yankee wine month in Toronto, with Washington, Oregon, and California bowing in. Do I see New York on the horizon? Well, sort of: New York was well-represented at the Toronto Wine and Cheese Show this March. Unfortunately, I was not able to make the long trip out to this show in Mississauga. But I did get to the Biago’s at St.Lawrence Hall for the Oregon preview and tasting (see below, March 31). Here are some notes for the wines which won me over at the preview: *Foris Vineyards Pinot Gris 2002 (Barrique): some vanilla on the nose, longer length than many gris, great with food. * St.Innocent Chardonnay Alden Vineyard 2001 (Barrique): light, clean, brisk, medium body, but great finish. Sip or food. * Halloran Vineyard Chardonnay “Le Pavillon” 2001 (Wineworld): limes, apple, no wood, aperitif wine. * Pinot Noirs – well, the wines I really liked had no agents here. These were Lemelson Winery Thea’s Selection and Jerome Reserve. Zelko also had no agent when tasted, but Abcon has since taken them on. Other interesting pinot noirs came from Erath, Amity, and Sokol Blosser. More details on these and other Oregon wines from rose@forefrontcom.com MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2004 – Authentic Wines and Spirits held a media tasting of Deinhard wines, the day before the German wine fair, at the Scrivener Square Summerhill LCBO store. This meeting also introduced new winemaker Matthias Walter to Toronto scribes. This was the first time Matthias had been in Canada. He was responsible for Deinhard’s 2002 and 2003 vintages. We tasted 17 wines and had a general discussion about Deinhard and German wines in general. Deinhard exports 90% of its production. 65% of German wine is white, with 35% now red. For Deinhard, they still produce 90% white wine. Here are some notes: *Lila Riesling Sekt, as aperitif, soon to be a rolling order twice a year: great off-dry sparkler, reformulated every now and then. A personal favourite of mine. * Deinhard Green Label 2002 Mosel ($10.40 General); light apples, good tang on finish. The 2003, when it arrives, will be priced at $9.95. It was more aromatic and spicier, but less dry. There are some Late Harvest grapes in the blend, as an Indian summer hit the harvests in most of Germany. * Deinhard Riesling Classic 2002 and 2003 Rheinhessen (the latter is $11.95 and tastes much better, due to the quality of the “late harvested” grapes. It also has higher alcohol content. * Deinhard Pinot Blanc Classic 2002 and 2003 Pfalz ($11.95): nutty, with some cream and butter on the finish, a sipper, better with some bottle age. There is also a Pinot Gris, not available yet in Canada, from Baden in the Classic line, full-bodied and high alcohol, according to Matthias. * Deinhard Avantgarde 2001 ($21.95) a blend from the Rhein and Mosel, about 62% riesling and 38% pinot blanc, classified as a tafelwein since it meets no definitions. Honeyish nose, some nuts, dried fruit, late harvest quality. * Deinhard Red Dornfelder/Pinot Noir 2001 and 2002 Rheinhessen, with red fruit nose, good extract on the mid-palate, long clean finish for food. * Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett 2001, 2002, and 2003 ($28.95 at Vintages for earlier vintage). The 2001 had 10.5% alcohol, the 2002 had 11.5%, the 2003 had 12% -- climbing higher! This QmP wine showed good body and intensity, aging rather well, fresh, long dry finish, excellent riesling character. * Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spatlese 2001, 2002 and 2003 ($42 Classics), with alcohol ranging from 9.5% in 2002 through 10% in 2001 and 11.5% in 2003. Lovely nose, fullish palate, lots of fruit and longish off- dry finish, low acid. * Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Eiswein 2001, which oddly enough, came in a 750mL bottle, for $240. It was very precious in its flavours, being a bit drier than the Ontario variety. For more details on the availability and pricing of Deinhard wines, contact Alex Gaunt at agaunt@awsm.ca TUESDAY, MARCH 23, 2004 – The EIGHT WONDERS OF GERMAN WINES was created as a trade preview to the German Wine Trade Tasting. It began mid-morning for the wine press and LCBO product consultants, Food and Beverage Managers. A buffet luncheon followed, with great cheeses, poached salmon, wiener schnitzel, hams, breads. We all mingled with the winery principals in the North Lobby of Roy Thomson Hall. At the earlier sit-down tutored tasting, wines were presented by Rainer Lingenfelder, Fritz Hasselbach (Gunderloch), Stefan Ress, Gunter Thies (Schloss Schonborn), Michael Probst (Moselland), Walter Schnur (Badischer Winzerkeller) and Christof Graf (von Buhl). We tasted different styles and levels, such as a Silvaner 2002 Kabinett Trocken from Franken, a Riesling 2002 Spatlese Trocken from Pfalz (van Buhl: showed Late Harvest concentration, some caramel flavours, $33), a Pinot Blanc 2002 Classic from Baden (Badisher Winzerkeller: light but typical pinot blanc, $9.95), and a Riesling Kabinett 2002 from Moselland (called Insignum: light peaches, lower acid, engaging for summer at 8% alcohol, $15.95). There was also Riesling Kabinett 2001 from the Rhein (Ress: great body and finish, $16.95), a 1997 Riesling Spatlese from Schloss Schonborn, which had aged well with its fleshy finish. Gunderloch had a Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 2002 ($45, full intensity), and Lingenfelder had his Ganymed 1999 Pinot Noir from Pfalz, which was full, ripe and rich, with a vanilla nose, sour cherries (almost a sour cherry clafouti?), and fine with rich foods. For more details about German wine, contact the German Wine Information Bureau at 905-815-1581 or GermanWineCanada@sympatico.ca TUESDAY, MARCH 23, 2004 – The major extensive tasting of German wines happened today at Roy Thomson Hall, North Lobby, mid-day for the trade and evening for the consumer. It was called “Deutsche Marques”, and it was sponsored by the Consulate General of the Federal Republic of Germany in co-operation with the Deutsches Weininstitut, Mainz. Twenty-nine wineries or consortia poured wines. As I perused the catalogue, I was surprised by how dry the wines have become, and how many grape varieties have fallen by the wayside. There only seem to be three white grapes: riesling, pinot blanc and pinot gris. Reds are mainly pinot noir. So that may seem to be the wave of the future, at least on the export market. Rieslings dominated, of course. It was hard to pick and choose from amongst the collection. It was mainly a factor of freshness, bracing acidity, use with food (there was plenty at the show), and sweetness level. Here are the ones I especially liked: from von Buhl, the 2002 Forster Bischofsgarten Riesling Kabinett ($19.95 Vintages); from Ress, the 2001 Hattenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Alsatian-style, delicious, $14.95 Vintages); from Schumann-Nagler, the 2002 Geisenheimer Klauserweg Riesling Kabinett (round, fruity, long length, $17.15 Vintages); from the German Estate Wines group, just about everything (a Riesling Trocken from St.Antony, a Kabinett from Bassermann-Jordan, a Kabinett from Bischofliche, a Spatlese from von Mumm. Gunderloch showed off their Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Spatlese 2002 (rich and revealing, $37 at Vintages). Konigswingert had a great Guldentaler Hipperich Riesling Kabinett 2002, one of my favourites of the show, with full-flavours and a dry finish (Private Order from Diamond Estate agreen@diamondwines.com $21.95). Their Spatlese is coming to Vintages at around $23. Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Kabinett Schlossberg 2002 was dynamite at $23.95 Private Order from hhdimports@intown.net You can also order Schloss Schonborn from HHD Imports, as well. I was impressed with Domdechant Werner’s Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Auslese 2002 ($49.95 Vintages). Zilliken had a Mosel, a 1993 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese for $29.95, Private Order from HHD. For more details about German wine, contact the German Wine Information Bureau at 905-815-1581 or GermanWineCanada@sympatico.ca TUESDAY, MARCH 23, 2004 – The Ontario Wine Society put on a Hillebrand Trius vertical of Lakeshore Chardonnay and Trius Red, all from 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2001. It was at the usual Tasting Rooms, with a sellout crowd attending. J.L.Groulx has been the senior winemaker at Hillebrand Estates for 15 years (he was the Ontario Wine Awards’ OWS Winemaker of the Year in 1998). Overall, he is responsible for over 50 different wines each vintage. Hillebrand and its sister property Peller Estates have a policy of holding back a certain percentage of their quality wines for sale later in the decade. Thus, 25% of the wine will come on-stream a few years after the initial release, and a series of 5% after that until the wine is all sold. For example, there are only a few cases of the Lakeshore Chardonnay 1998 left (indeed, maybe only a few bottles) – at a higher price than the release, naturally, just to cover capital costs of storage. All of this was carefully explained to us by David Laroque, Wine Educator for the Estates (and soon to be a freelance consultant). He told us some things about the Trius brand name, Lakeshore properties, vinification methods. He took us through the tasting, explaining how conditions in each year affected the grapes and, thus, the wines’ maturity through the years. David handed out the technical sheets for each wine, unfortunately not including the winery price. And to the surprise of no one, there is also a Trius Grand Red, but it has just been released….A tasting plate of food followed, such as tuna sushi roll, smoked salmon, spinach phyllo, beef, ham, and roast duck. Here are my notes; I had to leave early, so I was not around for any discussion; *Chardonnay Lakeshore 2001 (+291484): this is the current vintage, although 2002 will be along soon. Perfumed palate, a bit soft, medium length, sour apples on the finish. I ranked it 3. * Chardonnay Lakeshore 2000: Honeyed aromatic nose, good length, fine palate, some green apples, needs food, Burgundy style. I ranked it 2. * Chardonnay Lakeshore 1999: excellent age on the nose, still evolving, good length, a bit lean, definitely needs food. Some aromatic vanilla toast from the 39% US oak employed. I ranked it first. * Chardonnay Lakeshore 1998: nose a bit off, palate ripe and full, good length, creamy, aging well but still aging. I ranked it 4. * Trius Red 2001 (+303800): this is the current vintage. Ripe, herby nose, cabernet franc/sauvignon/merlot blends in Bordeaux approach. Still hard and tannic at this stage. I ranked it 4. * Trius Red 2000: black fruit, softer on palate, longer length shows integration of flavours, food obviously. Ready in a few years. I ranked it 3. * Trius Red 1999: vanilla nose, chocolate, mocha tones but lots of tannins still. I ranked it 2. * Trius Red 1998: burnt toast, full fruit on the palate, aging nicely into some kind of ripe English-style Bordeaux. I ranked it first. For more details on the Ontario Wine Society, call 416-964-3341 or www.ontariowinesociety.com THURSDAY, MARCH 25, 2004 – Philippe Dandurand Wines held a tasting in their offices of Burgundy wines, from the Beaune. These were all of the wines currently available in Ontario. The tasting was led mid-day by M. Gerald Uhlen, the Export Manager for Maison Joseph Drouhin. Here are some notes: *Rully 2001 (+938712, $29.95 Vintages May): light white, crisp, refreshing, long finish, good price. * Chassagne-Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 1999 Premier Cru (+738187, $88.95 Vintages): well-developed white, great depth, long finish, best with seafood. Opulent at the price. * Cote de Beaune Villages 2001 (+47845, $21.90 General List): this wine has been listed in Ontario for decades, which says something. Some tight sour cherries, tannic finish. Hold for awhile. * Chassagne-Montrachet 2001 (+627190, $32 Vintages Cellar Direct July): excellent pinot noir character, longer finish, but ready soon. Spicy and fruity. My favourite wine of the tasting, especially on a quality to price ratio. * Beaune Clos des Mouches 2001 (+950386, $64 Classics): mute nose, but good depth on the palate, medium finish. Currently closed. Needs time. * Charmes-Chambertin 1998 Grand Cru (private order, $110): generous nose, refreshing but light in substance, aged well. For more details about Drouhin wines, and their availability, contact dsolomon@philippedandurandwines.ca or 416-368-3344. MONDAY, MARCH 29, 2004 – Inter-Rhone (Rhone Valley Wine Council) and Sopexa Canada sponsored the National Final of the Cotes du Rhone Challenge 2004 at George Brown College. This competition is between 9 top students under 25 years of age from hospitality schools in Ontario and Quebec to determine who will be the Best Student Sommelier in Canada. Of course, it is more a “Central Canada” Final. The challenge happened first thing in the AM at 9 sharp and finished three hours later. There were two stages: wine service and a blind tasting. Invited guests and the press were observing while the LCBO’s Michael Fagan asked each of the nine his question on crystals in the wine. Only a few answered correctly. The audience participated in the blind tasting part; I correctly identified the wine as a Cotes du Rhone Villages. The overall winner was Jordan Harris, enrolled in the Winery and Viticulture Technician program at Niagara College. He will now represent Canada in the 4th International Final of the Cotes du Rhone Challenge 2004, to take place at the Ecole Hoteliere d’Avignon on May 17, 2004. He will go up against finalists from five other countries (Switzerland, Belgium, Germany, Holland and Ireland) in a competition of four tests: Cotes du Rhone wine and food matching, decanting, correcting a wine list, and a blind tasting. Then we all went off to a quick Gigondas tasting and lunch. The tasting, sponsored by Inter-Rhone with Jean-Michel Guirauld from the group, was too rushed. The glasses were inappropriate (small balloons, a nickel each: I got a far better glass from my lunch setup), the space was small, the wines were not laid out in listed order, no one talked about the 2001 vintage and why it was here, there was no indication of price nor of availability, appetizers (tapenade, tuna, duck and lentils) came around in the middle of the tasting, and we only had a half an hour for the 29 wines. Hardly enough time to catch one’s breath. The only good feature was that we could pour our own wines and not have to talk to anybody…Note to Ted and Anne: I do not mean to be negative, but more time and conducive conditions and availability would have been nice. I understood that most wines were $25 to $30, although a few were beyond $45. The ones that stood out, to me, were probably the most expensive ones. It would be grossly unfair to comment on all the wines, but the ones I liked were (in listed order): * Delas Freres Gigondas 2001 * Domaine de Cabasse Gigondas 2001 * Domaine Grand Romane, Selection de Vieilles Vignes Gigondas 2001 (best wine: great syrah hit, lashings of wood tones, concentrated flavours). * Domaine du Pesquier Ancien Vignoble des Princes d’Orange Gigondas 2001 Lunch was a great success: we had our choices of wines with the portobello mushrooms, goat cheese, lamb loin, parsnip-butternut squash-sweet potato mash. We finished with a pear tart tatin. Too bad there was no Muscat Baumes des Venise. Kudos to George Brown for the whole day… MONDAY, MARCH 29, 2004 – Churchill Cellars (www.churchillcellars.com 416-368- 5108) had their annual portfolio tasting in the afternoon and evening at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club, St.George Street. They poured their General Listed items, as well as releases through Vintages and Consignment, and a special selection of their wines on order, to be released over the next few months. I concentrated on these wines. Churchill Cellars reps such companies as the whole Hardy’s line from Australia, Pol Roger from Champagne, a few Constellation- Canandaigua lines, Quails Gate from BC, Nobilo in New Zealand, Pieroth Burg in Germany, Cellier des Dauphins in Rhone, Zonin in Italy, plus a handful of beers and spirits. Here are some notes: * Hardy’s Crest Shiraz 2001 (+565895, $14.95, new General release, mid- late summer 2004): full, firm, fruity. * Barossa Valley Estate Spires Shiraz 2001 (+598128, $14.95, General List June/July 2004): bright shiraz character, tasty fruit, BBQ. * Barossa Valley Estate Spires Chardonnay 2002 (+598136, $12.95 General List late summer/early fall): bright fruit, off-dry finish. * Hardy’s Oomoo Shiraz 2001 (about $16, slated for February 2005): hard to tell if this vintage will be released in Ontario. Full of stuffing, rich tones. * Blackstone Chardonnay 2001, Monterey (+994509, $17.95 Vintages): ripe and ready * Tintara Chardonnay 2000 South Australia (Hardy’s, +985358, $20.95 Vintages): one of my favourites for years. * Pinnacles Chardonnay 2000 Estancia Monterey (+322057, $17.95): one of the better value California chards at Vintages. * Quail’s Gate Limited Release Chardonnay 2002 BC (+377770, $14.95): another good value wine, fresh and fruity, good varietal character at this price level. * Estancia Meritage 2000, Vintages Winter 2005, $34.55: dynamite succulent flavours from this Bordeaux blend. * Mt. Veeder 2000, Vintages Winter 2005, $49.95: considerably more dense, with mounds of extract and juice. * Blackstone Merlot 2001, Napa (+997429, $29.95): sweet nose, some mint, black fruit, long finish. One of the better wines today. * Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Australia (+976399, $29.95): hard to beat this one too, competing very well with the Blackstone merlot at the same price. Another winner. TUESDAY, MARCH 30, 2004 – Here was an invitation to taste the Ten Top Wines selected for the 2004 Sante/Toronto Life Gala Wine Award of Excellence. It all happened at Lesendro Restaurant in Hazelton Lanes Shopping Centre. Sante’s Wine Selection Committee had blind tasted 124 wines to determine the ten international wines that will be awarded the Sante/Toronto Life Gala Wine Award of Excellence. All of the winning wines were re-tasted, in order to confirm their status. The awards were open to all wineries participating in Sante and were submitted in six categories. Susan Puff, Sante Festival Manager, and Steve Thurlow, chair of the Sante Wine Selection Committee, spoke to the wines. The press conference which announced the winners was followed by a private tasting of the wines. We tasted in the order of pouring at the Gala Dinner: Champagne Gardet 1997 from France and Chateau des Charmes Brut Sparkling NV wine won in the bubbles categories. For whites, Kim Crawford’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (under screw cap; more in the Loire style), Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Reserve 2002 (good depth and complexity), and Legends Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2002 (massive, but with an elegant burgundian finish). For reds, there was Beringer Blass Golf Label Pinot Noir 2002 (cherryish, definitely food, fresh fruit), Stoney Ridge Meritage Founders Signature 2002 (needed time to open), and DogRidge Vineyard DV7 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2001 (another massively structured wine from Australia). In the fortified wine category, there was the magnificent Case vinicole di Sicilia Florio Targa 1840 Marsala Riserva 1993. In the sweet white wine category, there was Hillebrand Estates Showcase Vidal Icewine Barrel Fermented 2002, with its extra hit of creaminess from the barrel. What was noticeable – and important – was the fact that there were so many good domestic wines for the Gala Dinner: five of the ten wines came from Ontario. For more details about Sante, check www.santewinefestival.net or laura.fathomco@sympatico.ca WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 – At Biagio’s, St.Lawrence Hall, the Oregon Wine Festival sponsored a tutored tasting seminar: discovering and identifying Oregon pinot terroir. All of the major soil types of the Illinois Valley, Lorane and sub-appellations in the Willamette Valley were covered. There was a major comparison of two soil types in the same appellation (Lorane Valley and Eola Hills). The nine wines were, of course, expressive of the regions. Each was produced from a terroir that was either volcanic or sedimentary. And we had to guess which was which. Accompanying the wines was a steak or salmon lunch from Biago. The wines were Foris Vineyards Maple Ranch (volcanic; $38, full aromatic nose, sweet brown sugar), Iris Hill Chalice (volcanic; $16US, hot nose, tobacco, smooth), King Estate Domaine (sedimentary; $65, fruity, strong pinot character, dense, stuffing), Sokol Blosser Old Vineyard (volcanic; $70, mellowed out with 70% new oak), Lemelson Winery Stermer (sedimentary; $38US, medium palate, some tartness on finish, new oak), St.Innocent Brickhouse (sedimentary; $43, full flavours, voluptuous, long engaging finish, organically grown grapes, 20% new oak), Westrey Temperance Hill (volcanic; $35, earthy finish, burgundian style, mushrooms), Zelko Estate (volcanic; $25US, vanilla on the nose, butterscotch and caramel, heavy, maybe a sipper), and Amity Schouten (sedimentary; $43, very pinot nourish, burgundian finish). For more details on terroir, sandy@forefrontcom.com WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 – “Uncork the World of Oregon Wines” was the theme of the 2004 Oregon Wine Festival, held at St.Lawrence Hall in aid of Second Harvest. The emphasis was on Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay, although there was one Pinot Blanc (Amity, soft and fruity), a Late Harvest Gewurztraminer (soft and sweet, delicious intensity), a Merlot (Foris Rogue Reserve, $23) a Bordeaux-style with Foris Fly Over Red (merlot 53%, cabernet sauvignon 27%, balance franc) at $20US, and Sokol Blosser’s fragrant and fruity Evolution (made from eight grape varieties, now selling for under $20 at LCBO). My favourites of the tasting were both the Chardonnay and the Pinot Noir of Domaine Drouhin Oregon. Also very good was the pinot noir lineup from St.Innocent (Shea Vineyard, Anden Vineyard, Seven Springs Vineyard) and Lemelson Winery (Thea’s Selection, Jerome Reserve, Stermer Vineyard). King Estate’s Pinot Noirs are always concentrated and fruity. For more details about the Oregon wine experience, contact sandy@forefrontcom.com WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR FEBRUARY 2004 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2004 – The annual pre-Cuvee tasting of award winning Ontario wines took place this morning at Tasting Rooms. The event is only open to members of the Wine Writers Circle of Canada, about a month before the Cuvee tasting in Niagara-on-the-Lake, to allow for lead publication time. As always, the WWCC is very appreciative of this heads-up. In the afternoon, the bottles were tasted by executive members of the Ontario Wine Society and selected sommeliers. There were over 160 wines, really too many to taste in one sitting; thus, the sparklers and sweeties were to be tasted at the March 28 WWCC meeting. My overall impressions of the table wines we tasted (there were many more at Cuvee; we did not taste them all today): there were lots of broken corks, lots of plastic corks, one screwtop, many composite corks (which did not break), and lots of dry corks. The whites were mostly chardonnay and riesling, with some gewürztraminer. The ladybug component in many 2001 wines continues…Here are some listings and notes on my favourite wines of the morning. Availability varies. Most are only in stock at the winery, while a few are on General List or Vintages Essentials. I’ve indicated the wider availability, based on the documents submitted by Cuvee. Here are some whites -- * Angels Gate Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2002 Old Vines $23.95 at winery, showed much voluptuousness and an engaging, long succulence on the finish. * Birchwood Gewurztraminer Riesling 2002, $10.95, +572156 General List, 52% gewurztraminer, off-dry quaffer, good intensity, medium finish. * Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2002, $30, +529941 at winery, was bone-dry but succulent with natural fruit tones * Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2002 St.David’s Bench, $16.95, +453472, was off-dry on the palate, but had immense body with a concentrated finish. Nice price. * Daniel Lenko Chardonnay 2002 Old Vines French Oak, $29.95, very toasty and with an elegant long finish. * Featherstone Riesling 2002, $10.95, impressed me by its great finish. * Featherstone Gewurztraminer 2002, $13.95, also had a great finish, with flavours enhanced by its slight bitterness. Good job. * Crown Bench Chardonnay 2002 Livia’s Gold, $28.95, was a botrytis affected wine, showing honeyed tropical succulence. * Henry of Pelham Chardonnay 2002 Reserve Barrel Aged, +252833 $13.95, showed elegance after four months in barrels, with a toasty finish. Great price. * Hernder Gewurztraminer Riesling 2002, $18.95, with 5% morio muscat added. Off-dry, longer bitter finish, very good. * Hillebrand Trius Chardonnay 2002 Barrel Fermented, $16.95, +497248, another toasty-tasty chardonnay. * Konzelman Riesling Late Harvest 2000, dryish mode, excellent dry finish, good riesling character, aging nicely. * Lailey Chardonnay Limited Edition 2002, $39, +706242, from 30 year old vines and French oak, was one of the outstanding whites of the day. * Lakeview Bench Chardonnay 2002, $10.95, +307165 General List, is a modestly priced basic chardonnay with sufficient oak to lift it and give it some body, great price/value ratio. * Legends Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2002, $27, showed excellence in its elegant finish. * Malivoire Gewurztraminer 2002 Moira Vineyard, $28, was outstanding with its Alsatian-like bitterness. * Niagara College Chardonnay 2002, $24.95, 13.5% alcohol, barrel fermented and barrel aged in US oak, was surprisingly light in flavours but elegant through the finish. * Pelee Island Pinot Gris Vendage Tardive 2002, $17, 14% alcohol, off- dry, complex, something different, long length. * Puddicombe Muscats 2002, $9.50, made with muscato honel, Muscat blanc, and morio Muscat, showed a dense body with good intense Muscat character – but bone dry on the palate. * Puddicombe Colombard 2002, $10, impressed me with its good flavours and finish. * Southbrook Chardonnay 2000 Lailey Vineyard, $19.95, +448316, was the bargain of the over-$15 wines: tropical succulence and vanilla-oak. * Stoney Ridge Bench Chardonnay 2002, $11.95, +292839 General List, is another value-driven straightahead chardonnay, albeit a buck more than the Lakeview. * Strewn Terroir Chardonnay 2001, $18.95, +542415, one-third new French oak, full malolactic, a year in barrel, had deep mineral tones, reminded me of oaked Chablis. Here are some reds – * Angels Gate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $24.95, still tartish in tannins but a substantial wine. * Cilento Shiraz 2002, $14.95, bright, juicy and Rhonish (syrah). * Colio Harrow Cabernet France 2002, $9.95, +297184 General List, again good value for fruity wine with substance and food-driven. * Creekside Signature Shiraz 2002, $25, was deliciously full. * D’Angelo Cabernet Franc Reserve 1998, $15.95, +554428, was well-aged, and could be compared to the 1999, also available at the same price. * D’Angelo Cabernet Franc 2000, $11.95, +305862, was light but reflective of the price, also nicely aged. * Daniel Lenko Merlot Old Vines 2002, $29.95, American Oak aged, voluptuous. * Daniel Lenko Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $29.95, deep chocolate tones. * Inniskillin Shiraz 2001 Braeburn Vyd, $24.95, +623868, barrel aged and quite tasty. * Kacaba Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002, $35, atypically juicy. * Konzelman Merlot 2001 Barrel Aged, $17.95, with both French and US oak, and malolactic, full, rich and ripe flavours. * Legends Estate Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002, $35, soft and approachable now. * Mountain Road Cabernet 2000, $18.95, a fifty-fifty blend of sauvignon and franc, was certainly a good enough blend to impress me. Sip or food. * Niagara College Cabernet Franc 2002, $16.95, done up in US oak, was less juicy than others in the tasting but certainly fullish in the category of food wine. * Pelee Island Cabernet Franc 2002, $10.65, +433714, was quite atypically juicy. * Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Cabernet Franc 1999, $47, +981134, unfiltered US oak aged, exceedingly good length, European in style, needs food. * Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2002, $19.95, +592261, showed good depth to the finish. * Reif Meritage 2001, $26.95, a delicious blend of 50% merlot, 40% cab. sauvignon, and 10% cab. franc. * Stoney Ridge Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002 Wismer Vyd, $29.95, done up in US oak, excellent all round. * Strewn 3 Terroir 2001, $38.95, +468918, 45% merlot, 45% cab. sauvignon, 10% cab. franc, very juicy with a long finish, one of the better high-priced red wines of the day. * Strewn Two Vines Cabernet Merlot 2002, $11.95, +590109 General List, 49% cab. sauvignon, 38% merlot, 14% cab. franc, and 100% juicy with a tartish but food-elegant finish. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2004 – The Italian Trade Commission together with the Region of Emilia Romagna, sponsored a tasting of some of the top wineries of the region. Sommelier Ambrogio Manzi, from Dozza, presented an overview of culture, history, and geography. This was followed by a sitdown technical tasting of eight wines, which in turn was followed by a walkaround tasting of some 31 wines. About 100 people attended; the function was at Oro. Representative food and cheeses were served, including the famed formaggio di fossa. The white wines are mainly from albana di Romagna, the reds from sangiovese. Chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon are also planted, and turn up in blends, such as a sangiovese/cabernet wine which would be 70/30 in content. Here are some notes on the wines; not all are available in Canada -- * Albana di Romagna 2002 Vigna Della Rocca (Tre Monti) – 40% oaked, very pleasant with a long finish. * Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2003 Secco Centenario (Chiarli; repped by Schiralli) – slight fizz, very fruity, short finish, high acidity. * Lambrusco Reggiano 2002 Concerto (Medici Ermete; Wine Lovers $16) – good fruit, quite intense in the middle palate. * Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva 2001 (Vini Pregiati Celli; Small Winemakers $25) – dark ruby, soft fruit, roses and cherries, reasonably well-balanced, medium finish. * Rosso IGT 2000 Zarricante (San Patrignano Terre del Cedro) – 70% sangiovese, balance cabernet sauvignon, showing extract and dense structure, some sweetness from the oak, tannic finish. * Rosso IGT 2000 Liano (Umberto Cesari; Lifford $33) – old vines, 70/30 blend, lots of oak, tends to overpower the fruit but will resolve with time. * Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva 1998 Pruno (Drei Dona Tenuta la Palazza; Halpern $38) – 45% new oak, a year in barrels, concentrated fruit in the nose, good depth, rather elegant, with balance. * Rosso IGT 2000 Marzieno (Fatt. Zerbina; Lifford $50) – 70 sangiovese, 20 cabernet, 9 merlot, good depth of fruit, lots of dense extract, cabernet does not overpower – tamed by merlot. Halpern Enterprises with Drei Dona’ - Tenuta La Palazza, and Lifford Wine Agencies with Umberto Cesari, seem to have the largest choices for availability in Ontario. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2004 – Most of the participants from the day’s sessions at Oro met again, maybe after a siesta, for “A Tavola Con L’Emilia-Romagna” at Mistura Restaurant, early evening. Again sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission and the Region of Emilia Romagna, the event was a dinner pairing the wines and foods of the region. The dinner was led by Chef Luigi Sica and Chef Massimo Capra, and they fed about 150 people. We had a variety of wines. There was no set pattern, and different wines went to different tables. We had to ask, or get up, for different bottles, and I am sure that this slowed down the whole wine service. But it was unavoidable for those who wished to taste a wide variety of wines against different courses, sometimes with ten glasses apiece on the table. First up were appetizers with a Lambrusoc 2001 Concerto fizzy sparkler. As well, there was a Vino Spumante NV but MC. Piadina calda farcita al formaggio di fossa e rucola took off and hit the palate with a shot, being a turnover of very expressive cheese and arugula. It was tamed by the sparklers. The primo was garganelli alla crema di Parmigiano Regfgiano con Prosciutto di Parma, a pasta in cheese sauce. We had an interesting Icroppi Albana 2002 with this dish. The secondo was lam medallions with balsamic and steamed cabbage, just perfect with a Zarricante Rubicone IGT 2000 (70/30 blend). The cheese platter had parmesan and fossa, with honey and jam, and a variety of wines including a Pruno 1998 (sangiovese sup. riserva, $38), a Marzieno 2000 (70/20/9 merlot blend, $50), and a Graffe Noir 1998 (Forli, $83, sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc blend). All these wines with the cheese were high in alcohol, approaching 14.5% by volume. The dolce was a semifreddo of parmesan with toasted hazelnuts and honey, accompanied by an Albana Passito and a Solara 1999. It was approaching midnight before coffee arrived; I had a tough day ahead, to prepare for Wednesday’s big tasting. So I went home by TTC. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2004 – Today’s the big one: “EuroWine 2004; a celebration of wine”, running from 11AM to 5PM for the trade, plus an evening extravaganza for Club Med invitees. It was at The Carlu, and all rooms were employed. Seven countries were repped – Austria, France, Germany, Greece, Italy, Portugal, Spain. It was hosted by the Consulate Generals and Trade Commissions of these countries. There was a lot of wine, over 600 different entries, and I managed to actually taste them all…NOT. Ron Fiorelli and his team produced an excellent catalogue, with all relevant details for each wine (except for region: the listings leaped from country, e.g. “Spain”, to the label (e.g. “Marques de Riscal”), bypassing the region (e.g., in this case “Rioja”). The names of the contact persons and representatives were listed, with full addresses and emails. Many Export Managers and winemakers came. 123 wineries were listed; there were others in attendance. Also, additional wines or different vintages kept cropping up. The wineries were arranged in alphabetical order, without regard to country. The food was excellent, with great meats and seafood, breads, and different cheeses from Europe (including several different kinds of blue cheeses). The Portuguese took advantage of the trade show to offer a range of Ports, which had been bound over from last Fall’s cancellation of the Port show. Unfortunately, the Spanish did not offer a comparable range of sherries. Nor were there many fortifieds from other countries. What to say about the wines? There were so many goodies that I can only summarize. Most of the wines I tasted were reds. Prices and arrival times may have been vague, and were not normally noted. I will be reporting shortly on the German and the Austrian winefairs: PMA Canada had Caves Alianca from Portugual, and offered a Garrafeira 1997 from Bairrada, coming to Vintages in the Fall, around $14.50. There was a North American style Quinta da Garrida Touriga Nacional 2001, available as a PO for $28.85. They had a wide range of reds from many regions of Portugal; all were impressive. A new player in town is Vin Plus, based outside Ottawa, and repping Bod. S.Arroyo from Ribeiro del Duero (Tinto Crianza 1998 at Vintages for $19.95, firm raisins, good length; and Tinto Reserva 1996, $27). Also available for sampling were Vouvrays from Domaine du Viking (the dry Vouvray Sec 1998, +711176 Vintages, $18.95; the more remarkable Vouvray Moelleux 1996 Cuvee Aurelie, +996579 Vintages, $55, with its caramel nose and dry finish). Maxxium Canada showed Portugal’s Aveleda (Quinta da Aguieira 2001, $20.65, touriga nacional and cab. sauvignon hits, North American style), as well as a full range of Masi wines (not tasted by me). Select Wines had a full range of Castello Banfi’s Brunellos, Summus, Excelsius, Centine (an IGT from Tuscany, 2001, $17.95, blend of syrah, cab. sauvignon, merlot, user friendly). They also had Luigi Cecchi’s “Spargolo” Sangiovese di Toscana IGT (Single Vineyard) 2000 PO, at $41, very firm but developing well, plus the “Riserva di Famiglia” Chianti Classico Riserva 2000, $32 by PO. Woodman offered Bod.Bilbainas Riojas, such as Vina Pomal Reserva 1997, $22.95 Vintages, excellent age and price, as well as the fine Legaris Crianza 2001 $24.95 Vintages. Gonzalez Byass sherries were also at the show, but I was impressed with the Beronia Gran Reserva 1995. FWP Trading had Quinta do Cotto from Douro, emphasizing their Tinto 2001 $19.95 Vintages in September (flavourful, great finish for food, needs time) and the Quinta de Pancas 2000 $69, a syrah-touriga nacional blend from Estremadura (long finish of raisins and plums). They also had Herdade do Esporao, with red and white wines plus a sparkler. The company’s Syrah 2001 (Consignment, $21.40) was most appealing for all its fleshiness. J.P.Vinhos had a full range (red, white, sparkling, muscatel). I enjoyed the oaky and rich Espumante Loridos Chardonnay 1999 (Private Order MC sparkler, only $26.80) and the unannounced Quinta de Pancas 2001 from Aragon, $37, tight but developing well. B & W showed Cusumano from Sicily (Nadaria Merlot 2002, $16.95 PO, hot and juicy in North American style, and Syrah 2002, $18.95, equally competitive to Oz styled wines). Vergina had Chateau N.Lazaridi from Greece, with its “Red” 2001 at $14.95 Vintages being a really chunky but ultimately delicious wine. The Domaine Porto Carras “Red” 1998 at $25.50 Vintages was a bordeaux blend showing fine depth and oaking. Rubayait showed a fine series of Quinta do Castelinho ports (Vintage 2000 $52.30 Vintages, 10 Year Tawny $38 Cons, 20 Year Tawny $63.50 Cons). MacDonald/Trilogy repped Mas Daumas Gassac, with Samuel Guibert de la Vaissiere the owner/winemaker pouring. He was last in town a few years back, hosting a small gathering at HarbourCastle. Available were Red 2001 (absolutely delicious), the tightish Sol de Landoc Red 2002, the affordable Elise Red 2001 ($14.95), and the popular Guilhem Red 2002 ($11.95). I also tasted a fruity Syrah 2002, also at $11.95, but not yet available. Another popular series of tables were helmed by Torion. E. Guigal’s Cote Rotie 2001 (+352534, Vintages, $85) was an enormous syrah rush with an excellent aftertaste, while the more affordable Saint-Joseph 2000 (Vintages, $32.50) was lighter, but with the same blackberry- leathery hit. Bodegas Muga showed some Riojas, including their excellent Reserva 1999 (Vintages, $22.50, decent price), and the Muga Reserva Seleccion Especial 1998 (Vintages, $38.75). Domaines Schlumberger had an excellent Pinot Gris Grand Cru “Spiegel” 1999 (+723379 Vintages, $29.50), whose good body, balance, and caramel character made me lust for more than just a tasting sample. The Case for Wine displayed the good tastes of Maurel-Vedeau’s range from Languedoc, such as Bushman Red and Bushman White (both Consignment at $12.95) and the Bad Dog line at $12.35, on General List. Celebrated Cellars had Bodegas Faustino, with its usually good prices. I remember the 1978 Faustino V Reserva, first listed at $5.65; I bought five cases of that year. The 1998 vintage should be at Vintages in May, retailing at $24. Their Campillo Reserva 1995, at $29.95, will be in Vintages in July. The well-oaked Fortius Crianzaq 1999, suitable for quaffing or patio, will be at Vintages in October, priced to go at $12.95. Philippe Dandurand showed Jose Maria da Fonseca’s Periquita Classico 1995, soon to Vintages at $23.50, remarkably well-aged, and the excellent Jose de Sousa Mayor 1999 (Vintages, $30). Their dark and fruity Garrafeira TE 1999 (Vintages, $26.75) is good value for this price level. Authentic had Langlois-Chateau, and offered a variety of sparklers. Quadrille Cremant de Loire Brut 1995 impressed me, as did their basic Cremant de Loire NV. Michel Laroche had some interesting Chablis (Premier Cru Les Vaudevey 2002) and Viognier 2003 ($11.95, from Mas la Chevaliere in the new marketing designation “South of France”). Lorac offered the highlight of the tasting: older Riojas from R.Lopez de Heredia-Vina Tondonia. Maria Jose Lopez de Heredia, the General Manager, was here herself, pouring such greats at the Vina Gravonia Crianza white 1994 ($27), the Vina Tondonia Reserva white 1987 ($79), the depth of Vina Bosconia Reserva red 1996 ($35), and the fuller Vina Tondonia Reserva red 1996 ($77). And another highlight were the Champagnes of Philipponnat, such as the Royal Reserve Brut NV ($55), the Reserve Rose Brut NV (with 7% pinot noir added, $60), and the decently priced Grand Blanc Brut 1998 (100% chardonnay, $77). MCO had Bodegas Lar de Barros-Inviosa, with its remarkable Bonaval Brut Nature Cava 2000 (Private Order, $17.95) J.Cipelli featured Marques de Riscal Reserva 1999, $20.85 General List), good value for its rounded wood tones. THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2004 –- Hard on the heels of the Eurowine show there was a Winemaker’s Dinner at EPIC for Ricasoli Winery, which is represented by Philippe Dandurand Wines. Bruce MacLean (416-368-3344) hosted the proceedings, David Smuck was the sommelier who explained the food and wine pairings (based on sensibility and testing), and Chef Jean-Charles Dupoire worked the superb kitchen. In attendance from Ricasoli was Maurizio Ghiori. Appetizers (prosciutto, cherry tomatoes, etc.) were accompanied by Orvieto and Chianti wines. First up were two seared sea scallops, with mashed baccala cod, and saffron braised salsify. This was accompanied by a Torricella Chardonnay 2002 ($26), a single vineyard production which was well-oaked, some cloves, and some tight fruit. But it went well with the pineapple-curry cream emulsion under the scallops. A wild mushroom risotto with confit of rabbit (on top) with a port wine sauce was accompanied by Brolio Chianti Classico 2002 ($23.80, +003962, now all sangiovese, rustic in its intensity, showing black fruits). The braised veal shank with a carmelized sweetbread, gnocchi, and trumpet mushrooms completed the savoury dishes. With it came Ricasoli Chianti Castello di Brolio 2000 ($49), a reserve level wine with some merlot added to the sangiovese. It spent 18 months in 65% new French barriques. Not quite yet ready, although the 1998 we also tasted was superb, a bit milder and had aged better, of course. For dessert, we had a pleasant surprise: one was unannounced. The menu had a honey roasted pear rolled in phyllo with a ricotta anglaise, accompanied by Ricasoli Vin Santo 1998 ($31.95), a dense dessert wine full of raisins and almonds. To further complement the taste, the kitchen produced another dessert – an extra virgin olive oil ice cream on roasted nuts, with biscotti and dried raisins – to take advantage of the nuances of the Vin Santo. The evening went by so quickly, and everybody was perfectly satiated. A great job, finely executed by everyone concerned… TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2004 – The Ontario Wine Society continues to be one of the most exciting wine clubs in the city, by virtue of its educational and dining programs. Their latest offering to the sold-out crowd at Tasting Rooms was entitled “Taking the Mystery Out of Wine & Food Pairing”. Their notes say that while food and wine matching isn’t rocket science, it is true that certain combinations can wreak havoc with taste buds. There are ways to ensure a simple strategy to take the mystery out of pairing wine and food. Linda Bramble, a teacher at Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), led the session with a PowerPoint presentation. She emphasized that you can drink any wine with any food and can love the match (actually, within reason: I’ve found that only milk-based liqueurs can stand up to excessively hot dishes). Nevertheless, there was a range of foods and a range of wines. The Vincor wines (from the Wine Rack and the Winery) included Jackson-Triggs Cuvee Close 2001 (chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling in the blend, a finely tuned but softer wine, ideal for receptions – which is when we had it), Inniskillin Riesling Reserve $12.95 (+253278), Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Meritage 2001 ($24.95, +594002), Jackson Triggs Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2002 ($18.95/375mL), Jackson Triggs Methode Classique ($24.95, +587691), Inniskillin Founders’ Reserve Chardonnay 2000 ($29.95, +586370), Sawmill Autumn Blush $6.75, Inniskillin Gamay Noir 2002 ($10.95, +082776), and Olera port style $9.95. The foods included a lemon slice, soft brie-type cheese, broccoli, salt, parmesan, pound cake, berries, salsa. We were to try various foods against various wines, in order to find perfect matches. It was a largely interactive session, with many q and a from the audience and from Linda. She led us through the exercise of dozens of wine and food pairings: the good, the bad and the ugly. We learned how small taste adjustments can make out food and wine marriages perfect. But first we had to sniff some numbered sealed cups in a blind tasting test. Of course I got them all, except that the pineapple actually smelled to me of rotting pears, which is the answer I gave. The basic principles are: sweet wine with food less sweet, avoid tannic young wines with bitter food (unless you add salt), adding lemon to food makes any acidic wine taste sweeter (or less acidic), fresh fruit enhances sweet wine flavours, use sweet wines which are low in alcohol with hot foods. There are three main concerns with food and wine pairing: how many tannins in red wines, how sweet is the white wine, how high is the alcohol. Linda went on to instruct us in the Jelly Belly test of tasting for flavours (flavours occur in the nose) and then plotted a simple strategy. You’ll need to identify the dominant component in the wine, and in the food. Then you can match. The easiest solution: the best wine that goes with anything is one that is low in alcohol, low in tannins, and off-dry. But then, why bother unless you just want a buzz? Hey – where’s the beef? (or, in the case of syrah, where’s the bacon? where’s the leather?). Inoffensive patio wines have their place. The best “modest” wines I have found to accompany most things are off-dry apple wines; at least they have some character. The evening concluded with the usual range of tasty appetizers from Chef Terry Kennedy: grilled pesto marinated shrimp brochette, chicken satay with peanut sauce, vegetable spring roll with chili ginger, grilled beef in honey-ginger, stilton cheese and walnuts in puff pastry, spinach-feta phylo. And many, many kudos to Sadie Darby and her crew for not only pouring the wines but also for cutting up all the lab foods and the smell cups…they were there from mid-day onwards. SOME PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH * Hillebrand Showcase Chardonnay Unfiltered 2001, $35, +981043, with lees at the bottom of the bottle. This creates an almost permanent haze, but once you look beyond that, you will find a rewarding wine with full, up-front flavours. Supposedly, “as this wine ages it will become rounder and develop more bready, toasty aromas and flavours”. The question is when to open it: buy a case an have a bottle every six months or so. * Pillitteri Estates Sparkling Riesling Icewine 2002, $70 (375mL), +566653, released just in time for Valentine’s Day, sparkling peach notes on the lazy bubbles, a real winner in the gift category. Next up: Mother’s Day… * Peller Estates Founder’s Series Vidal Icewine 2001, $18.95, +469635 Vintages Essentials, 200mL, is a great introductory package at a fine price for gifting and entertaining to a host or hostess. Typical apricot succulence, and long finish. Medal winner. * Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Riesling Icewine 2002, $80, +981175, 375mL, marmalade and candied citric tones, some honey on the back palate, but a serious acid-length finish. Possibly one of the few icewines to have with food, since it is riesling. * Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Series Cabernet Franc Icewine 2002, $70, +981639, 375mL, mainly strawberries in aroma and front palate, with a spicy finish. All three Peller Estates icewines are available in 200 mL formats, in a three-pack, at LCBO Vintages. * Fortant White Merlot 2002 Pays d’Oc, $9.95, +570663 General List, an off-dry charmer in the blush section, enjoyable later in the spring. * Hillebrand Vineyard Select Gamay Noir Rose 2002, &10.25, +528455, just in time for spring. This medium-dry rose is made from the perfect grape variety, expressive of melons, berries, and floral notes. * Etchart Cafayate Torrontes 2003 Argentina, $9.95, +283754 General List, 13% alcohol but this indigenous grape variety is intensely fragrant. Put it up against a viognier. * Domaine Boyar Pinot Blanc 2002 Hungary, $6.95, +589168 General List, is fresh, clean, medium body, great price for a patio or food wine. * Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2001, $10.95, +568055 General List, US oaked but a syrah nose, a shiraz palate, and a syrah finish! Fruit heavy on the palate, of course. Part of a relaunch. * Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon Unfiltered Glenlake Vineyard 1997, $35, +994566, a re-release from 1999, developing nicely as it ages, more darkness (cocoa, coffee) and spices, less fruitiness. * Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Franc Unfiltered Glenlake Vineyard 1997, $35, +994582, a re-release from 1999, developing nicely as it too ages. More cedary and black peppery, less red fruit. * Rodet Pinot Noir Bourgogne 1999, $17.45, +589341 General List, good value for an aged pinot, modestly paced, but all the flavours are there. * Sumac Ridge Merlot 2001 Okanagan Valley, $13.95, +593079 General List, light and modest merlot taste, value as a sipper. * Etchart Cafayate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Argentina, $10.05, +362186 General List, 13.5$ alcohol. I’d imagine that the agent Pernod Ricard Canada went round and round with the LCBO over the pricing. Ripe and rich but with tannic stuffing for food. * Undurraga Cabernet Sauvignon Founders Collection 1999 Maipo, $27, +726646 Classics, a complex food wine, definite Euro style with invigorating tartish finish. * Bodegas Monticello Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1991 Rioja, $45, +907790 Classics, goes beyond Gran Reserva since this is the “best of the best”. Four years in Alliers oak, 100% tempranillo, not made every year, rich and ripe tones, engagingly long length. Good value, and you can mark it to sell in your establishment at $59.99? Snap it all up… WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JANUARY 2004 ======================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 14, 2004 – The Wine Writers Circle of Canada came together for their Annual General Meeting and Dinner. This year it was at sen5es in the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel on Wellington Street West. At the AGM it was announced that Sheila Swerling-Puritt had been acclaimed President for the next two years. The dinner was crafted by Executive Chef Claudio Aprile; the wines were supplied by the WWCC members attending. Twenty-six diners turned out (one was stuck in a snow bank but phoned in) and shared the aperitif Champagne Brut NV supplied by Veuve Cliquot. A highlight was Veuve Cliquot’s 1996 Rose, bound over from an earlier tasting. Thanks for both sets of bottles. We all sat at large tables of nine, and shared each other’s wines, which totaled, I think, about 30. Some members had brought more than one bottle per diner. Here’s the excellent menu: a warm mushroom roll with endive and a truffle dressing, perfectly seared scallops with citrus fruit served on a long foot and a half plate (some had an arugula and fig salad with ricotta and saffron onions). The soup was a sweet potato puree with an herbed crab croquette. The main was a succulent roast breast of chicken with a ragout of fava beans and mushrooms accompanied by shallot marmalade. The cheese platter included the rare Spanish sheep cheese garroxta. The dessert was a carmelized banana cream pie with a bitter dark chocolate sorbet and a mango-caramel sauce. Great fortitude for the return journey through the awesome snow banks. WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 21, 2004 – Adrian Williamson of Tastevin Selections (905-456-8287; tastevin@sympatico.ca) hosted another superb tasting at Opus. Christophe Rion was in town, and he was deep into promotion of 2001 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils burgundies. Quite a few of these reds are purchased by LCBO Vintages. We began with a rare Nuits-St-Georges “Les Terres Blanches” 2001 ($72), made from the pinot blanc grape (planted in 1992). 15 of the 100 cases produced have been allotted to Ontario: melons and some caramel, extremely long length. We went on to sample three Vosne-Romanee 2001. The commune ($55) was fresh, with off-dry cherry flavours, long, long length. Despite its softness, it still needed time in the bottle. The 1er Cru “Les Chaumes” ($85) was of course a step up; it was more hard and fruit shy, but with better length and development. The 1er Cru “Les Beaumonts” (also $85) had more tannin, and would need longer cellaring. The Nuits-St-Georges “Les Grandes Vignes” 2001 ($55) showed firm, delicious fruit. I liked it better than the opulent Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru “Les Haut Pruliers” ($85). The Echezeaux Grand Cru 2001 ($110) was open knitted, some fruit showing after exposure, but of course it was not ready. I enjoyed this wine the best of the tasting. And I think many of the other tasters did too. The Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2001 ($140) was intensely concentrated, well on its way to balance. THURSDAY JANUARY 29, 2004 – Alvaro Palacios, “Spain’s Most Exciting Winemaker” (Wine Spectator) and “Winemaker of the Year” for 2003 (Wine Enthusiast) was in town for an extended period, working his way through a promotion presentation to the LCBO and to the wine press. Amazingly, he has not yet hit 40 years of age, qualifying as a “Young Winemaker”…He was trained in Bordeaux with time spent at Chateau Petrus. Indeed, in 1989 he set up a winery in the Priorat region, and began producing L’Ermita, an expensive wine which is regularly likened to Petrus, Le Pin, and even Grange in Australia. He also makes wine from tiny, old-vines vineyards in the Bierzo region (Descendientes de J.Palacios), with his nephew. And as well, he guides along the Palacios Remondo winery in Rioja, with his brother. Not quite a flying winemaker but he IS able to drive everywhere to make or oversee his wines. He went through the wine press at the SoHo Metropolitan on a one-to-one basis; he is repped here by Woodman Wines and Spirits (416-767-5114; www.woodmanwinesandspirits.com) Here are some notes: from Bod. Palacios Remondo (Rioja): * La Vendimia 2002 ($18) has four months in oak (80% Fr, 20% US), off- dry feel, 13% alcohol, not very tannic but still very young. Pleasant enjoyable sipper. 175K cases made. * La Montesa 2000 ($21) is a Crianza, 13% alcohol, half tempranillo, rest garnacha, mazuelo, and graciano. 400K cases. Unfiltered. Quite a step up for only three dollars more (two years additional aging, plus Crianza level). Superb fruity nose, longer length and more full. Better with food than as a sipper, and useful as a first course wine. * Propiedad H.Remondo 2001 ($38) is less aromatic, more closed, in new barrels for a year. Best of the wines made at the Rioja bodega, at a reserve level. 13.5% alcohol, unfiltered. Cherries, orange peel, spices, sweet dark chocolate finish. There is also a Placet 2002 (white, $23, from viura) which was not tasted. from Descendientes de J.Palacios (Bierzo): * Villa de Corullon 2001 ($68) is shipped in a burgundy dead leaf bottle, 13.5% alcohol, and is 100% mencia (a local red grape grown on the steep mountainsides – Rhone anyone?). Fifty to ninety year old vines; 14 months in new French oak. 125 barrels produced. Shows gorgeous depth, with an excellent smokey aftertaste. * Las Lamas Corullon 2001 ($148) comes from only five barrels, single vineyard, 14% alcohol, showing excellent depth. Juicy and oaky, best with food. More smoke and concentration than the Villa. There are also San Martin 2001 ($120), Moncerbal 2001 ($148) and La Faraona 2001 ($248) available, not tasted here. from Alvaro Palacios (Priorat): * Les Terrasses 2001 ($40) is 14% alcohol, 30% garnacha, 60% carinena, 10% cabernet sauvignon, a year in French oak. Made from grapes that didn’t get into Finca or L’Ermita. Very young at this point, but appears to be long lived. Chocolate flavours suggest that it is better as a sipper. Black fruits. * Finca Dofi 2001 ($114) is 60% garnacha, with syrah, carinena, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. It is a tougher wine which needs time to develop…Full-bodied, for laying down. Single estate. 18 year old vines are the youngest in the blend. 14$ alcohol. * L’Ermita 2001 ($620: that’s, six two oh) is made from a production of 4000 bottles, velles vinyes (old vines), “gran vino de guarda”. 80% garnacha with 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15 months French oak. Layers of black fruit and some minerals, concentrated flavours, broad and rich on the palate, with finishing acids and an extremely long length. THURSDAY, JANUARY 29, 2004 – As a guest of the new Australian Senior Trade Commissioner and Consul-General (Sally-Ann Watts, I went to the Hungerford Hill “winemaker dinner” at Avli on the Danforth. The agent is Alex Kitts of Vergina International (416-386-1080; www.greekwines.com) Kylie Teasdell (Sales and Marketing Manger) was up from Hungerford (Hunter Valley, New South Wales) in Australia, to act as hostess. The winery was acquired from Southcorp by James Kirby family in 2002, as part of the shakeout from the Rosemount purchase by Southcorp. The winery is being relaunched, and all of the wines here were made by former Southcorp winemaker Phillip John, who decided to go with the new company. The entire restaurant was turned over to this function. Here’s what the six course meal entailed. For starters, there was a plate of oysters, grilled tiger shrimp, grilled scallops, seared tuna and chives, splashed with olive oil. It was accompanied by Hungerford Hill Clare Valley Riesling 2003 ($25) under screw cap: clean, clear. Good citric grip, fresh but not in an Alsatian mode. Next was a salmon filet wrapped in paper bark, along with a salad. The Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2002 ($25) is actually a coolish climate styled wine, without the excessive tropicality of fruit. Very nutty finish, which I enjoyed immensely. Fine oak storage. The rabbit on mushroom and spinach risotto was accompanied by Hungerford Hill Pinot Noir 2002($18), a regional wine in the “Wineglass” series. The screw capped pinot was pretty good at this price level, with black fruit but not sour cherry. Light and soft, expressive of the region’s grapes. Lamb shank was next, on a layer of gigantes. And it was served with Hungerford Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($18), another “Wineglass” regional wine, with lovely typical cabby notes (mint, cassis, herbs, and oak finish). The cheese platter had blue cheese and smoked cheddar; it was nicely accompanied by a Hungerford Hill Orange Shiraz 2002 ($32), 13.5% alcohol, matured in 40% new US oak for a year. Peppery, sweet nuts, intense fruit tones. The meal concluded with a rice pudding and the restaurant’s take on Pavlovas, which was enjoyed with a Muscat liqueur (average age of 15 years). The whole meal took over 4 hours, and that was without many major speeches!! Everybody seemed to have fun. PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH ============================ Chardonnay 2002 Reserve Kew Vineyard (Stoney Ridge), $24.95 at the winery: BF in French oak for two weeks, and then matured on the lees in new French oak for a year. Good burgundian character, a classic wine. Melons dominate the fruit aromas, with some tropicality suggested by pineapples and vanilla tones. Buttery complexity on the finish. Chardonnay 2000 Chile (Bodega Norton), $9.95 General List +589531: one of the better value lightly-oaked chardonnays, this is from Argentina. Slight tropicality and slight vanilla spicing. Chardonnay Reserve 2002 (South Australia; Lindemans), $13.95 Vintages +415067: one of a new series of premium wines from Southcorp. The “Reserve” level is the second ranking of four tiers available in Canada, just under the Coonawarra series. 78% of the fruit here was sourced from Padthaway. It is a pleasing blend of peaches, melons and vanilla on the nose, showing its lees contact and French oaking. Good price for a switch hitter (sip or food). Chablis 1999 Vieilles Vignes (Le Chablisienne), $22.95 General List +942243: light flavours, but engaging. Concentrated body exhibits Chablis character. Long finish suggests only food. Cabernet Sauvignon/Kekfrankos 2001 Szeremley Soproni (Kovacs Agencies, karlkkovacs.agencies@sympatico.ca) is from Hungary. It is an engaging robust red better suited to a warmer climate, needing pasta or pizza. The label claims “a hint of peach on the palate” but I didn’t get it. Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Argentina (Argento), $9.55 General List +589523: from the famous Catena family. The wine is bright, with red fruit (cherries, plums, currants). Could be a switch hitter: food or sip. Long length, and good value for under $10. Primitivo/Merlot Tarantino IGT (Da Luca), $9.95 General List +588970: 14% alcohol with a hot finish. Oaky and fruity and chocolate tones make this more of a sipper. Needs more acid punch for food. But a remarkable price. Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2001 (South Australia; Lindemans) $14.95 Vintages +584722: with fruit sourced from Padthaway and Adelaide Hills, this Oz wine shows mounds of black fruit and mint, offset by the plumminess of the Merlot and the subtle oaking. A sipper, and easy drinker. 13.5% alcohol. Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002 (South Australia; Lindemans) $14.95 Vintages +614610: fruit here comes from Padthaway and McLaren Vale. It has been aged in new and used French and US oak for nine months. It has a toasted component, with dark fruit of some complexity, best with food. 14% alcohol. There is a mate coming out at Vintages in February, the Reserve Merlot. Shiraz Reserve 2001 (South Australia; Lindemans) $13.95 General List +482299: also aged nine months in French and US oak barrels, and with fruit from Padthaway, Eden Valley and McLaren Vale. This is shiraz at its spiciest, along with some anise tones. 14% alcohol, and good value for a General List shiraz at this price point.  WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER and DECEMBER 2003 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2003 - The 8th Annual Italian Wine and Grappa Tasting was held this year at the Carlu, which is turning out to be a really fine venue for wine lovers (both EuroWine 2004 and Sante 2004 will be there). Some interesting statistics: in the General List area, Italy has a 7.5% growth in sales by litres. For Vintages, the growth is 10%. This year’s show was sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission and the Italian Ministry of Foreign Trade (MINCOMES). Over 67 wineries/distilleries participated in a six hour tasting, noon to six PM. The show had previously been to Vancouver and Calgary; some wineries went only to those two cities. After today, it was headed to Montreal. Not all products listed in the fat 200 gram catalogue were available in all locations, and of course, there were the inevitable wines which arrived too late for inclusion in the book but were available for tasting. May I add that the catalogue is one of the finest produced for trade shows. Addresses and names are given for agents and suppliers. Maps appear. Winemakers or producers are listed. Grape varieties and proportions of same are indicated for every wine. Just the prices are missing, since these are variable from province to province. The range from each winery went from two at Cerreto (Tuscany) to eleven offerings from Zonin and Sgari. Unfortunately, I never seem to have room on my palate for tasting grappa. I just cannot work my way through all the sparklers, the whites and the reds, plus have room for grappa. Here are some notes on wines which appealed to me; I did not taste all products and most times pricing and availability were uncertain: * Chianti Classico Riserva 1999 Tenute Marchese Antinori (90% sangiovese, about 10% cabernet sauvignon) proved to be a delightful wine, ready now for restaurants. Halpern. * Toscana IGT Villa Antinori 2001 (60% sangiovese, 20%CS/15%M, 5% syrah) was definitely in North American style. Halpern. * Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso 2000 (60%CS/30%M/10% syrah etc.) was probably the best wine I tasted at the show, delicious black fruit for a mere $79.95 at Halpern. * Brunello di Montalcino 1998 Banfi showed an excellent aftertaste. Select. * Sant’Antimo Summus 1999 Banfi also had good quality, and marvelously long flavours. Select. * Toscana IGT Centine Rosso 2001 Banfi (60% sangiovese, 20CS/20M) was in the North American style, off-dry, gutsy. Select. * Oltrepo Pavese Spumante Classico 1998 (100% pinot nero) was one of the nicest sparklers in its price range ($14) and its bone dryness. Majestic. * Barolo Cerequio 1999 Chiarlo, showed great finesse for a Barolo of this age. Lifford. * Nebbiolo d’Alba 2001 Colla was a bit tight, but the fruit was there for $23. Maxxium. * Toscana IGT Broccato 1999 Dievole (50% sangiovese, 25M/25CF) had more depth, more Old World character than other Toscana IGTs. Needs time. Trilogy. * Contessa Entellina Chiaranda’ del Merlo 2002 Donnafugata (50% chardonnay, 50% ansonica) is a 100% delicious Sicilian white with lots of oak treatment, $39 from Maxxium. * Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1998 Fabiano, 14.1% alcohol, and a good bargain at only $44.95, with its fully developed old flavours. * Barolo di Serralunga 1999 Fontanafredda, $46.50 on consignment from Schiralli, over-the-top cherries and wood, modern style for less aging. Could appeal to the NA palate. * Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2000, is a riserva (castello bottling) level wine, full, firm, shy fruit at this point, but cabernet sauvignon (10%) is showing. $59 from Philippe Dandurand. * Langhe Sauvignon 2002 Gresy, is all sauvignon blanc, exhibiting good SB complexity and herbs. $23.95 from Rogers. * Bianco Veneto IGT Pino & Toi 2002 (40% tocai, 25% pinot bianco, 15% pinot grigio) was floral in nature but with good structure to the finish. Halpern. * Barolo 1999 Malgra, had good depth and character for a Barolo at the $47.95 level. Churchill Cellars. * Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene Spumante Extra Dry, good balance and clean fruit, more malic-citric, good price. $15.75 TWC Imports. * Moscato Dolce Spumante, 375 mL and a crown cap(!), great value for freshness and only $8. Snap a cappa at restaurants. Wine Lovers Agency. * Amarone della Valpolicella 1999 Montresor showed a phenomenal amount of chocolate and raisins (Glossettes, anyone?) for only $40. Wine Lovers Agency. * Toscana IGT Le Volte 2001 Ornellaia (50% sangiovese, 25CS/25M) will be at Vintages in March 2004 for a mere $23.45. Snap it up. Maxxium. * Chianti Classico Riserva 1999 Il Picchio Querceto (92% sangiovese, 8% canaiolo) showed a terrific nose, exciting palate, and good length. VinVino. * Chardonnay Toscana IGT Torricella 2002 Ricasoli, showed a lot of smokey tones in its appeal to the NA market. Philippe Dandurand. * Toscana IGT Roccato 2000 Rocca della Macie (50CS/50 sangiovese) showed a remarkably fruity, long length in the finish. Noble Estates. * Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni 1998 San Felice, although light in body, was well-developed and ready now. $60 from John Hanna. * Colli Orientali Del Friuli 2002 (100% tocai) had light floral tones, with some anise, and a longish length. Small Winemakers Collection. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2003 - Maxxium sponsored a “Bella Italia” tasting from their immense Italian portfolio. It was held at the Vaughan Estate, in the late afternoon, 3 - 4:30 PM. This was an overview for food and beverage managers and the press, to 14 wines from seven producers. Each producer had a representative, whether an owner or winemaker or agent, talk about the wines. Here’s what we tasted: * Collavini Ribolla Gialla Turian 2001, Vintages June 2004, $19.95 +928770: from the Friuli region, soft, fruity, citric. An excellent sipper. * Donnafugata Sedara 2001, Vintages, $14.85 +900274: from the nero d’avola grape, spicy fruit, developing well. Good finish for good food. * Masi Toar 1999, Vintages May 2004, $24.95 +342444: from Verona, loaded with fresh character even after four years of aging. Dense extract. * Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 1999, (2000 will be in Vintages Spring 2004, $24.95): mute nose, good basic chianti, some chocolate, 100% sangiovese aged 24 months. * Poderi Colla Bricco del Drago 1998, Vintages, $29.95 +716894: from Piedmont and the dolcetto and nebbiolo grape varieties. Exceptionally youthful character but with a good dollop of nebbiolo character. Long, spicy finish, still needs time. * Masi Brolo de Campofiorin 1998, Vintages April 2004, $29.95 +976092: full-bodied, specially selected “ripasso” wine. Raisin nose, excellent dried cherry fruit on mid-palate. Great price for this level of quality. * Luce de la Vita Lucente 2000, Vintages Spring 2004, $39.95 +747030: from Tuscany, a blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, in a joint venture of Mondavi and Frescobaldi. Good hit of M/CS and oak, plenty of red fruit showing, concentrated wine, and affordable. Still needs time, and food… * Collavini Merlot dal Pic 1999, Consignment $29.95: mostly merlot from Friuli. Deep, complex aged nose, dense extract, spices and fruits. Soft and supple in the mouth, with an off-sweet finish (low tannins). Could be an elegant sipper. * Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza 1999, Spring Classics 2004, $49.95 +995209: based on merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese grape varieties, aged in French oak (30% new) for about two years. Hard woody nose, body is full but not dense. This is the second vintage for this brand. * Donnafugata Mille e Una Notte 2000, Private Order $68: mostly nero d’avola, dense fruit characteristics, persistent flavours, load of aging tannins. * Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove 2001, Vintages Fall 2004, $56: the second wine of Ornellaia, a CS/M blend. Good NA heft of red berries, and high tannins will need time to resolve. * Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia 1998, Vintages $56.95 +704742: anise nose, good fruit set on mid-palate, layers of complexity, tight finish opened up later. * Luce de la Vita Luce 1999, Vintages $99.95 +710046: from merlot and sangiovese grape varieties. Soft, heavy level of merlot red aromas and plums. * Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2000, Classics $159: blend of CS/M/CF, concentrated nose of spices such as cloves, bright and sprightly bordeaux-styled blend, but the jam tones and some bell pepper suggest a North American palate. Almost plum pudding in its overtones. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2003 - Maxxium once again hosted its “President’s Tasting”, at McLean House. This gala soiree was a great way to taste some of the vast Maxxium portfolio of wines and spirits. Usually, by the end of the wine part of the evening, my palate is fatigued, and I forego the spirits part. As always, wine producers and their representatives are in attendance. And, as usual, there is logic to the progression of the evening, with sparklers on the Patio until 7:15 (followed by dessert wines), Beringer Blass by the Fireplace, “Little Italy” in the Mahogany Room, Spirits in the Library, and the balance of the still table wines in both the Conservatory and the Staircase. Everything was accompanied by gorgeous food: oysters, salmons (baked, smoked), roast beef, lamb, fine cheeses, desserts, etc. Here are some notes on the wines: * Greg Norman Reserve Shiraz 1999 Coonawarra (Private Order): stunning silky feeling, great fruit set, qualifies as an elegant sipper. * Wolf Blass Black Label 1999 Barossa (Vintages +960468, $89.95): good depth, but a little mute at this point. More time is needed. * Marano Amarone 1995 Boscaini (Vintages +922187, $54.95): tight but massive fruit, really opened up with some food. * Ca de Loi Amarone 1997 Boscaini (Vintages April 2004 +985804, $64.95): several steps up in quality. * Passo Doble 2000 Masi (Vintages February 2004, $15.95): from Argentina property, Malbec grapes. Good value for the price, delicious! * Grandarella 2000 Masi (Vintages February 2004, $28.55): chocolaty, soft fruit. * Vision Gewurztraminer 2002 Cono Sur Chile (Vintages +912949, $16.95): from the Casablanca region, 13.5% alcohol, almost Alsatian in quality and taste, decent price. * Tokay Pinot Gris “Les Maquisards” 2000 Dopff & Irion (Vintages +905778, $23.95: a full and rich Alsatian, off-dry on palate and finish. * Reserve Alexandre 1999 Geyser Peak (Vintages May 2004 +570598, $59.95): a Sonoma styled cabernet sauvignon blend, full of excellent potential. Long, cedary finish. * Perold 1998 KWV South Africa: Paarl’s finest red wine, available only by Private Order, about $90. Phenomenal, and worth every penny. * Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 John’s Blend (Vintages March 2004, +927640, $43.95): fruity and upfront, with an off-dry finish. * Jean Taillefort 2001 KWV Paarl South Africa (Private Order): very juicy but with some depth to the finish. * Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1999 (Vintages +947341, $179): a bullet of a price, but a very fleshy wine with a smooth finish. * Chardonnay Carneros District 2000 Robert Mondavi Napa (Vintages +962258, $42.95): excellent depth and elegance, well-worth the price for a coddled chardonnay. * Saltram Original Plantings Shiraz 2000 Beringer Blass Barossa (Consignment): showed excellent extract, deep, dense, but not clunky- chunky as they sometimes are. Full of shiraz flavours and development. FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2003 - The Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada held its monthly business meeting and tasting at the LCBO Scrivener Square, Events Kitchen. In many cases, while marketing notes were sometimes provided, neither prices nor availability were cited to us. Here are some notes on the wines I tasted that day: * Veuve Cliquot La Grande Dame 1995: based on a blend of eight Grand Crus, about 63% pinot noir. Mint and almonds on the nose, some nougat tones, could age a bit more, say until 2005. * Veuve Cliquot Reserve 1996: this is 59% pinot noir, 33% chardonnay, balance pinot meunier. Citric nose, with hazelnuts, spices, with bracing acidity following through on the citric aromas. Suitable for long ageing. * Veuve Cliquot Rose Reserve 1996: similar blend as the Reserve 1996, but with 15% pinot noir wine from Bouzy added. It had a characteristic gaminess in the nose, resolved by the finish. Definitely better with food. * Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee: my favourite champagne, so I have a conflict of interest here. Fifty different wines from 6 - 10 different years, for house consistency: heavy on the aging, leading to creaminess, nuts, rancio, toast. * Chateau Rauzan-Segla 1999 Margaux: lots of wood, not yet balanced, could be ready soonish. * Chateau Segla 1998 Margaux: high acid finish for food, good fruit and development. Ready now. * Hattrick 2001 McLaren Vale (Classics, Torion): 50% syrah, 43% Grenache, 7% cabernet sauvignon. Minty nose and follow through, good tasting blend from Australia. * Greg Norman Chardonnay 2001 Yarra: full, firm, elegant burgundian style, fleshy finish. * Sterling Chardonnay 2001 North Coast: 13.5% alcohol, smooth, Californian style with US oak * Wynn’s Coonawarra Chardonnay 2002: 13.5% alcohol, rich and ripe, good integration of fruit-wood-acid. Food or sip. * B & G Chardonnay Pays d’Oc 2001: light, but some wood on the finish. * Fort Simon Chenin Blanc 2003 Barrel Fermented South Africa: polished fruit, depth and length. * Footprint Chardonnay 2003 South Africa: leanish, cloves, good length * Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2002 New Zealand: 13.5% alcohol, hot finish but zesty. * Wynn’s Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2000: full of delicious off-dry extract * Greg Norman Cabernet Merlot 2001 Australia: full development, with great gripping acid on the finish. * Rapunzel Shiraz 2000 Australia: good fruit, a little on the light side * Footprint Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 South Africa: expressive varietal character, fruity finish. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2003 - Sopexa has been one of the sponsors of the Loire Valley wine show, conducted by Steve Thurlow, wine educator. I caught up to this current show at the Centre for Vine Affairs, at Crush Wine Bar. Steve spoke at length, through a PowerPoint presentation, about the Val de Loire, the third biggest wine growing area in France (running between the Atlantic to the centre, Paris. Most of the wines are white, and come from Anjou, Touraine, and Nantes. We tasted ten wines, expressive of the types of styles and the regions of the Loire. Here are some notes of our tour, from west to east: * Muscadet Chereau Carre 2002, +945527, $12.50: medium fruit on body, longest finish suggests food, citric tones but not sharp. * Anjou Rouge Domaine de Mongilet 1999, +776864, $13.90 Consignment Hobbs & Co: clearly a restaurant wine, medium body, goes with a wide variety of food. Still fresh tasting after four years! * Touraine Rouge Domaine Deletang 1999, +772947, $16.07 Consignment Hobbs & Co: floral nose, light food wine for summer, some herbs from the cabernet franc grapes. Good body and tannins. * Chinon Rouge Baronnie Madeleine 2000, N/A in Canada: made only in the best years, perfumed nose, and softer version of a cabernet franc wine. Est. $25 in price. * Vouvray Domaine Des Aubusieres 2001, $19.95: smoke and oak on nose (toast), long finish, good food wine. * Montlouis Brut Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, sparkling +850201, $25.50 Consignment from Vinifera: fresh peaches and some minerals. medium bodied, good for aperitif or first course, or just plain toasting. * Sancerre Joseph Mellot 2001, +979922, $24.95: the herby side of sauvignon blanc, one of the finer wines of the day. * Pouilly-Fume Domaine Didier Pabiot 2002, +907840, $26.50: restrained nose, good depth on the palate. * Pouilly-Fume Jean Claude Chatelain 2002, +958801, $24.95: lively balance and some smoke, zesty citric tones. * Pouilly-Fume Joseph Mellot 2001, +979773, $19.95: very concentrated wine, with pronounced lemons, gooseberries, some nettles. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2003 - Just a short walk from the CVA to Icarus Design, for the next tasting, in the early evening. WineryToHome.com has been a player in the Ontario marketplace for about a year now. This is one of their launches, to get people to experience first hand the wines that can be delivered to home. The company provides access to 350 Ontario wines. You can order one bottle or several cases, to your home or to your office. Website visitors can select wine through food matching, expert reviews (Tony Aspler, David Lawrason), or recommended assortments. Doug Tower is the man behind the action. Twenty-four wineries are represented, and more are being added all the time. This tasting tonight, conducted by David Lawrason - who talked about a half- dozen of the wines - was a venue for ordering wines. About 50 wines were available for tasting, from sparklers (Chateau des Charmes, Cilento Riesling) to whites (Cave Spring Riesling, Creekside Sauvignon Blanc, Legends Gewurztraminer, Thirty Bench Trillium) to reds (Lakeview Meritage, Reif Meritage, Henry of Pelham Cabernet Merlot, Stoney Ridge Meritage) to sweet wines (Lailey Cabernet Franc Icewine, Colio Vidal Icewine, Southbrook Cassis). Wines ranged in price from $7.95 to $59.95 a bottle. Call 1-800-866-254-6075 for details, or www.winerytohome.com or ephralyn@winerytohome.com. FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2003 - For the fifth year in a row Jeanjean Syrah Primeur Pays d’Oc was selected by the LCBO as part of its Nouveau release program. The warm and dry summer not only brought forth generous fruit but also promoted a very early picking, giving more time for the wine to mature. To celebrate the occasion, Eurovintage (1-888- 700-WINE) held a pre-release luncheon at Café Nicole, Novotel Toronto. The press also had an opportunity to taste other wines in the Jeanjean portfolio, including the popular Chardonnay 2002, Syrah Rose 2002, and Merlot 2002, all on General List for $8.95. Also available were the following: * Clos Roque d’Aspes Faugeres 1999 Languedoc, Vintages +633396: soft, fruity red with character of terroir, made form local grape varieties * Chateau du Seigneur d’Arses 1999 Fitou, +619387: full-bodied, developing well, good length and follow-through. * Chateau St.Didier-Parnac 2001 Cahors, Vintages +303529: good depth and a racy feel to the palate. * Oratorio Gigondas 2000, Vintages April 2004 +956359: stunning Grenache flavours, tempered with some syrah. * Clos de l’Oratoire des Papes 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape, Vintages April 2004 +993279: good mouthfeel for a CdP, extra long finish. FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2003 - After lunch, off to the Royal Winter Fair. I had missed the media preview, and most of the opening week due to commitments elsewhere in wine land. But I did want to see the Royal Vineyard, which was new for 2003. This is the RWF tribute to Canadian wine growers, producers, and marketers. It was to be a celebration of crop development. Located in the Heritage Court, the Royal Vineyard had a vineyard (plastic grapes!), a winery, a cooking demo area, and The Vintner’s Terrace, a mostly-sold out gourmet restaurant. Celebrity chefs demonstrated and food was paired with Canadian wines. Today, Cave Springs gave a wine demo, Liaison College gave a cooking demo, a chef from Via Rail cooked, and Pelee Island talked about its wines. On the next day, there was more cooking from Sage Restaurant, Vineland Estates (Mark Picone), and Fairmont Royal York. The Heritage Court was midway between a lot of the agricultural judging and the commercial display stands. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2003 - One of the highlights of the month for me was the truffle dinner at Mistura, a celebration sponsored in part for some of the wine media by Batasiolo Winery of Piedmont and their Ontario agent, Majestic Wine Cellars Inc. (905-851-2618). There were 80 people at Mistura, and one kilo ($6,000) of white truffles for all of them. This is the restaurant’s third truffle festival; the fee, including wine, taxes and tips, was $200. Batasiolo is one of the larger wineries in the Piedmont, producing about 4.5 million bottles a year. Majestic has Consignment stock for most of the wines that we tried with dinner, all of ten courses… Appetizers included a scrambled egg crostino with shaved truffle (melt in your mouth goodness), a truffled beef carpaccio on endive, and a chopped scallop seviche with white truffle on a corn chip. They were accompanied by Prosecco, an off-dry quaffer that was really quite pleasant. This was followed by a sit-down dinner, beginning with a toast from Metodo Classico Dosage Zero Millesimato 1998 (75% chardonnay, 25% pinot nero), nicely dry but with a fruity mid-palate complexity. The first course was egg custard served in a shell, on polenta, with seared foie gras and vegetables brunoise, accompanied by Gavi di Gavi 2002 (ripe nose, some melons, good rich flavours on palate, finishing fruity). Next was seared dourade filet with lettuce in truffled vinaigrette, served with Chardonnay Morino 1999 from Langhe region (ripe and well-aged, pale gold colour, good acid finish). The classic risotto al tartufo bianco came with Dolcetto Arziga 2002 (fruity, good long length to deal with the truffles). This was followed by a braised rabbit ballontine with truffled polenta and Barbera Sovrana 2001 (deep and intense fruit, probably finest Barbera I’ve had in some time). Next up was roasted partridge with pancetta, cipolline, carrots, and potatoes, with Barbaresco 2000 (ripe and ready, actually phenomenal in being very expressive of the nebbiolo grape). The “main” came as a roasted venison chop with sautéed slaw and a wine reduction, accompanied by Barolo Cerequio 1998 (13.5% alcohol, tannins still dominate) and Barolo Boscareto 1997 (14% alcohol, softer in body but a bit hot). Dessert - yes we saved room - was a pine nut torte with fruit compote and crème anglais, along with Moscato d’Asti 2002 (full, fruity, good with cream-based desserts) and a Muscatel Tardi 2001 (a late harvested Muscat, 12% alcohol, with wonderful complexity). Coffee and grappa completed the meal - I did not have the spirits. Considering that there were 80 people, both the food and wine services were well- paced. My congratulations - and thanks - to Adriano of Majestic, for a job well-done and well-presented. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2003 - This year’s version of the LCBO’s hot “Young Winemakers Tasting” moved from a brewery to a distillery - to the Fermenting Room (still a brewery) of the Distillery District. The wine press had a clear one hour shot at tasting wines before the paying customers arrived. Twenty-five or so young (under 40) winemakers presented some 60 wines for sampling, plus there were four young chefs (including Tom Thai from Tempo) presenting their foods, and a buffet selection from Daniel et Daniel. The handy spiral bound booklet made it easy to identify the chefs and winemakers: pictures (and bios) of each appear in glorious colour. Ontario wineries included Stoney Ridge (Liubomir Popovici), Hillebrand (Natalie Reynolds), Jason James (Thomas & Vaughan), and Thomas Green (Lakeview). Countries included Austria, Australia, Chile, Italy, New Zealand, South Africa, Germany, France, California, and Spain. The crowd was boisterous (mostly under 35 in age) and the music was by a DJ, and edging louder as I left. Wines could be ordered at the event. One comment: everybody wanted to talk to a young winemaker, and consequently the lineups were long. And sometimes the winemaker talked while holding onto the bottle, or there was nobody else around to pour. Some people had lined up just for a sample, not for a talk, and they just wanted to sip, spit and move on… Here are some notes on the wines. As always I did not taste everything: * Stoney Ridge Unoaked Charlotte’s Chardonnay 2002, +497230, $24.95: off- dry elegance. * Stoney Ridge Cabernet Franc Wismer Vineyard reserve 2002, +995480, $24.95: delicious fruit, but still tannic * Vina Casas del Bosque Merlot Reserve Casablanca 2002, +995084, $15.95: soft, fruity, zesty and interesting. * Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot 2002 New Zealand, +995159, $35.95: tight and evolving, but a powerful fruity wine. * Finlayson Sentinel Chardonnay 2002 South Africa, +994996, $16.95: coconut nose, and on the mid-palate. * Diemersfontein Carpe Diem Shiraz 2002 South Africa, +995027, $29.95: delicious, toothy already, dense fruit. * Hillebrand Trius Chardonnay Lakeshore 1998, +291484, $16.45: full flavours, rich, long length. Food needed. * Murphy-Goode Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2000, +995142, $32.95: full on the palate, dense and chunky. * Bertani Due Uve Pinot Grigio & Sauvignon IGT 2002, +994913, $16.95: soft, fruity and aromatic, a perfect fleshy sipper. * Lakeview Chardonnay Reserve Vinc Vineyard 2000, +518043, $30: delicious meld of oak and fruit, and some finishing acid. * De Meye Trutina 2001 South Africa, +995035, $23.75: an affordable blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. * Vina Carmen Wine Makers Reserve Maipo Valley 1999, +547117, $32.95: good Bordeaux-styled blend, and affordable. * Thomas & Vaughan Cabernet Franc 2000, +995118, $17.95: nice price for a good red wine, a bit lean in cool climate mode, but with a smooth finish. * La Baume Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays d’Oc 2002, +994822, $17.95: soft and fruity, a sort of California version, with an excellent finish and no herbaceousness. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2003 - Opening night for the Gourmet Food and Wine Expo at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre South. This year there was a Vins de France Tasting Pavilion (18 wineries), the Food Network Canada stage for cooking demos by their TV chefs (Olson, Spry, Murray), a free series of wine seminars from the International Sommelier Guild, plus onsite dining and Tutored Tastings (ranging from $55 to $195 for a tasting of about half a dozen wines or so, plus a lecture from a wine writer or other industry expert). Food was clustered together, from suppliers, retail outlets, and restaurants. Samples were offered for free at many places, but mostly it was pay as you eat. Wines of course were not free. There were clusters of wineries, such as a California booth, a New York area, Chile, South Africa, Australia. In the walkaround, there were many wines to try. Some included MCO’s Domaine des Aspes Viognier 2001 ($14.55) and Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2002 BC ($33.95) and its Merlot 2001 ($32.95, not yet ready but developing smooth flavours), Select’s Middelvlei Pinotage 2000 ($17) and the Pinotage Reserve 2001 ($23), Trilogy’s Leon Beyer Tokay Pinot Gris 2000 ($15, full-blown fruit), Philippe Dandurand’s Beringer Founder’s Estate Merlot 2001 (soft and fruity, developing well for restaurants) and Chardonnay 2001 (creamy, delicious extract), Conoval’s Rietvallei Chardonnay 2002 South Africa 2002 ($14), Wine World’s Jennifer Padthaway Shiraz 1998 (13% alcohol, fleshy fruit), Ravenswood Monte Rosso Zinfandel 2000 ($59, 14.5% alcohol, full and firm berries, need time to soften). Stan Maleta from Niagara gave me a personal look at his wines, such as the Maleta Reserve Chardonnay 2001 ($19.95, lots of fruit on palate and wood tones from the 19 months in both French and US oak), Maleta Meritage 1999 ($24.95, one of the finest bordeaux blends in Canada, 50CS/30CF/20M, 18 months in new oak, now softer and fruity), Maleta Unoaked Chardonnay 1999 ($12, fruity, still developing, great with food). I also tried his Riesling 2001 ($12.95) and Riesling Reserve 2000 ($14.95), both exceptional examples of this peach-driven grape. Robert Ketchin, as he always does, put out the hands down winning wine list, sourcing every New York wine available in Ontario. Fourteen wineries want your attention, and Robert has the sheet with details of what wines, how available, what prices, and who the agent is (along with phone numbers). Call him at 705-444-5255. Prevedello & Mathews gave me a personal look at California’s Cuvaison Winery, based in Napa, showing me Cuvaison Chardonnay 2000 ($36.95, good balance of wood and fruit, long length), Cuvaison Pinot Noir 2001 ($31.95, heavy, dense chocolate and cherry tones), Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($44.95, 14.5% alcohol, still tight and developing but will repay cellar time). P and M also handle Markham (Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $19.50, good grass tones and depth, good for restaurants; Chardonnay 2000, $28.95, good oak and quality is there; Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, $39.95, 13.5% alcohol gives it a good heft and lift, fruit dances off the palate) and Rutherford Hill Merlot Napa Valley 2000 ($36.95, with its fabulous depth). Ah well, more next year... MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 - Carol Slatt of Lorac presented a tutored tasting of selected Rhone wines at the National Club, over a lunch. She represents two wineries from the Southern Rhone: Domaine de Mourchon and Domaine de L’Ameillaud. The principals of both wineries joined us for lunch. Nick Thompson of L’Ameillaud presented his barrel samples of 2003 Vaucluse Vin de Pays (coming soon at $9.85, already showing a gorgeous amount of fruit, and depth enough for most foods), 2003 Cotes du Rhone (about $13, rich even now for a young wines), and 2003 Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne (about $15, firmly tannic at this point). The finished wines were sampled on their own and with food (wild and tame mushroom soup, salmon trout, fries, salad, and quiche). Walter McKinlay of Mourchon spoke on his Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret wines (60% grenache, 25% syrah, 10% cinsault, 5% carignan, 40 year old vines, stainless steel and concrete vats, first vintage in 1998). Here are some notes on the finished wines: * Domaine de L’Ameillaud Vins de Pays Vaucluse 2002, one of the last values at Vintages, selling for under $10. Turns up at the LCBO every year, sells out quickly. * Domaine de L’Ameillaud Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne 2002, about $15, and with tannic stuffing to hold it together with the meal. * Domaine de Mourchon Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret 2002, about $16, unwooded, syrah shines in the blend, tannic development at this stage. * Domaine de Mourchon Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret 2001, full, firm and ripe, black fruit, more syrah character again. * Domaine de Mourchon Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret 2000, a bit lighter in style, still black fruits, some egg custard showing on the finish, * Domaine de Mourchon Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret 1999, deeper flavours resolved, best of the wines with food. * Domaine de Mourchon Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret Grande Reserve 2001, about $21, 65% grenache, 35% syrah, 60 year old vines, 40% of the wine (mostly syrah) in oak. Still a young wine, obviously tight, but has the power to hold for a decade. Again, syrah seems to dominate, augmented by wood tones (vanilla, spices). Some anise. For more details, call Lorac at 416-783-2516 or lorac@bellnet.ca. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 - Continuing with its new Monday night profile (and conflicting with my own concert recital schedule), the Ontario Wine Society held one of its most informative tastings ever. This is now the (presumed) annual CCOVI tasting. The Canadian Wine Library at Brock University offers the Ontario Wine Society a selection from its collection, based on a grape variety, alternating red and white wines. Last year it was Riesling. This year it was Cabernet/ Merlot (which seems to be taking on a life of its own, almost as a new grape variety!). Chardonnay will probably be next year’s wine offering. The Canadian Wine Library is an incorporated permanent, revolving collection of some of Ontario’s finest VQA wines judged ageable by the directors of the Library, to be used by the industry for promotional, research and educational purposes. The Library wines have been acquired and cellared by Brock University’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI). For many years, the Ontario Wine Society has supported CCOVI by donating speaker fees, and making other donations. The Cabernet/Merlot theme is essentially a “Bordeaux blend”. All of the wines we tasted were mixtures of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, with varying percentages over the years. These are also known as “Meritage” wines (if the producer wishes to use that copyrighted term). This was a great opportunity to taste wines from the same year, three different wineries, and different blends. Each bottle cost about $30 when initially released. Claudius Fehr, responsible for Old World wines (and hence, Bordeaux) at LCBO Vintages, and a director of the Canadian Wine Library, conducted the tasting. Here are the basics: 1999 - Cabernet Cave Spring Cellars (32% cabernet sauvignon, 58% cabernet franc, 10% merlot): broad sweetness on the palate, lively fruit, but lacks concentration. 1999 - Meritage Lakeview Cellars (66CS/16.5CF/16.5M): good finishing acid, best with food. heavy wine. 1999 - Cabernet Merlot Henry of Pelham Winery (46CS/6CF/48M): succulent fruit, a big wine. My number three pick. 1998 - Cabernet Merlot Cave Spring (20CS/50CF/30M): flat, loss of flavours, initially olives and green veggies on the nose. 1998 - Cabernet Merlot Lakeview (75CS/5CF/20M): excellent body but hot alcohol, dense and chunky. 1998 - Cabernet Merlot Henry of Pelham (34CS/17CF/49M): good integration of wood and fruit, sweet and light on the palate. My second best wine of the evening. 1995 - Cabernet Merlot Cave Spring (50CS/30CF/20M): some bottle variation throughout the room. My sample tasted more like a 1985 Medoc (i.e., ten years older than the label says). Anise in the nose, some raisins. Was the whole lot like this? 1995 - Cabernet Merlot Lakeview (60CS/25CF/15M): unfiltered. Collapsing in the glass, some drying out. 1995 - Cabernet Merlot Henry of Pelham (37.7CS/12.5CF/49.8M): balanced fruit-acid-wood, some mocha, excellent mouthfeel, depth and development. My pick for best wine of the night. Some comments: my favourite wines had a higher proportion of Merlot; my least favourite wines had a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc (and this includes the 1995 Lakeview, with 25%). We were not told the ratios of the blends until after the tasting. Is there a longevity problem with Cabernet Franc in Ontario? This makes me want to re-taste my own older Ontario Cab Franc bottles. I cannot wait for a CCOVI Cabernet Franc tasting, just as a check…Customer satisfaction this evening was all over the board, with support for each wine, although when you play the “Merlot card”, you get a better response. Food came out after the formal tasting, and we had a chance to compare and contrast styles with a variety of dishes, such as 4-year old cheddar cheese, smoked duck with caramelized onion on baguette, lamb pie with root vegetables, tortilla wrap with grilled vegetables and goat cheese, and sesame chicken. For more information about the Ontario Wine Society for tastings like these, call 416-964-3341 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 27, 2003 - J. Cipelli hosted a tutored tasting and lunch at Grano’s. The wine press was out in full-force to greet Ms. Chiara Lungarotti, owner of Umbria’s Cantine Giorgio Lungarotti. Her visit was in honour of her late father’s accomplishments and contributions to the Italian wine world. She briefed us on the current on goings at the Lungarotti Winery and Agro-Tourism complex. It is a tourist destination in Umbria, with one of the finest wine museums in the world. Grano’s complemented the tasting with a variety of appetizers, scallops, ravioli and mushrooms, a meat stew, and desserts. Here are some notes: * Bianco di Torgiano Torre de Giano 2002, +49205, $9.95 General in February, on a Rolling Inventory basis: fruity and body, stainless steel production, melons, good finish, but either food or sip. * Aurente 2002, $29.95 Private Order: 90% chardonnay, 10% grechetto, full spectrum of BF, BA, battonage, lees aging. Creamy, vanilla, but finishes with acid and length for food. * Rubesco Rosso di Torgiano 2000, +41947, $10.95 General: 70% sangiovese, 30% canaiolo, fresh and fruity berries, good value like basic chianti. * Giubilante 2001, +980672, $29.95: full solid character from the sangiovese-canaoilo-montepulciano-merlot blend, raspberries on the nose, some Italianate character on the finish. * Rubesco Riserva Monticchio 1990, $69.95: 70% sangiovese, 30% canaiolo, aged in wood, and showing well. Better to sip and taste than with food. * Rubesco Riserva Monticchio 1995, +941369, $39.95: will be better in a few more years, but now a substantial wine, needs food. * Rubesco Riserva Monticchio 1997, $44.95 when it comes in: just released, ripe already, with an extremely long finish. There is a style difference between 1995 and 1997. Good value for the price. * San Giorgio 1997, $49: 50CabSauvignon/40Sangiovese/10Canaoilo, 13% alcohol, oak aging. Firm fruit. 1997 was a very good year. The amount of cabernet in the blend has crept up over the years. * Vin Santo 1997, 375mL, +345256, $8.95: one of the few remaining values at the LCBO, a fine vin santo at yesterday’s prices… For more details on availability, contact J.Cipelli 416-798-9463. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 27, 2003 - For the first time in many years, Beaujolais Nouveau was celebrated with a tasting of both select Nouveau 2003 and select Beaujolais Appellations. It had always been the Toronto practice to taste the previous year (or earlier) in Beaujolais, while waiting for the Nouveau to arrive at the stroke of midnight. Well, all that changed with the new rules allowing export of Nouveau, to be ready for sale not before the third Thursday of November but at the opening business hour. This year, to give the Nouveau a chance to shine on its own, the Cru tasting was brought back, but for a week later. It was sponsored by the French Chamber of Commerce in Canada (Toronto), the Union Professionnelle des Vins du Beaujolais, and the French Economic and Trade Commissioner. The venue was the recast InterContinental Toronto Centre, formerly a number of different hotel names, 225 Front Street West. The trade tasting in the afternoon, for restaurants and media, was a magnificent success. Pates, cold cuts, cheeses, breads - all were laid out at each stand - along with spittoons. My only quibble - the Parisian wine glass was too small to allow aeration. This was, after all, billed as a “professional Beaujolais tasting”. I had no intention of quaffing some 35 different wines, but merely sniffing and spitting. The catalogue was only one page, tiny type, but it was arranged not by producer nor table but by cru; I found that helpful. Most availability for the wine seemed, at best, uncertain, but here are some notes, along with agencies (I concentrated on Morgon and Moulin a Vent)…For Beaujolais Blanc 2002, both chardonnays were interesting; Domaine de la Madonne is through MCO, and Perle Blanche is through Rollick Beverage. Morgon Dominique Piron “Cote de Py” 2001 is through Tastevin (firm fruit, and quite a way to go). Similarly, Cave de Bel Air Morgon 2002 (Rollick Beverage), and a trio through Barrel Select (J.Foillard’s Cote de Py 2002, G.Breton’s Vieilles Vignes 2002, and M.Lapierre’s Morgon 2002). Allegro had a fine Trenet Fils Moulin a Vent, Barrel Select had Domaine Diochon Moulin a Vent, Lexcellent had Romanescu Moulin a Vent, and Lifford had the excellent Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques Moulin a Vent 2001. Tastevin had Dominique Piron’s “Les Vignes du Vieux Bourg” Moulin a Vent 2002. The Case for Wine had a good spread with P.Ferraud & Fils, Chenas 2001, Cote de Brouilly 2001, Regnie 2002, and Saint-Amour 2001 (get your order in before Valentine’s Day). It was a good day for tasting and comparing the wines of the gamay grape from Beaujolais. Welcome back to Toronto… WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 10, 2003 - Inniskillin Wines held a press conference at the Argonaut Rowing Club, 11 AM. At the event, Donald Ziraldo, co-founder of Inniskillin, announced that the company has become an official sponsor of the Canadian Olympic team. This marks the first time that a Canadian wine producer has supported the development of Canadian Olympic athletes. Inniskillin was previously the exclusive wine supplier for the Toronto 2008 Olympic bid. To commemorate the announcement, Inniskillin plans to produce a special icewine. The winery is planting a special crop of vines at its vineyard in the Niagara region for producing the special Riesling icewine, with the first vintage (2009) being ready for 2010, the year of the Vancouver Olympic Winter Games. There was a ceremonial planting of the first vine by triple-Gold rower Marnie McBean and Ziraldo. We wish it luck! There was a buzz that there were similar activities planned for Inniskillin’s Okanagan property, in the table wine category. Inniskillin will make marketing promotions and fundraising initiatives throughout 2004, under the banner of “Cultivating Canadian Champions”. Funds from retail sales and special events will largely go to the Canadian Olympic Committee’s Excellence Fund, to provide for athletes preparing to compete in the Olympic Games. The event concluded with a buffet luncheon and a mini- tasting: * Inniskillin Old Vines Riesling 2002 Seeger Vineyard, under $20 (+989673) and in screwcap: this was a tank sample, it will be bottled soon for release in the New Year - plump fruit, no searing acid like many Ontario Rieslings. A winner, made in Oz style by their Oz winemaker Philip Dowell. * Inniskillin Pinot Gris 2002 Montague Vineyard, under $20 (+989681) and in screwcap: another tank sample. BF, and aged in oak for eight months, plenty of opulence and tropical fruits, some light vanilla and oak tones showing. Wonderful sipping wine, some pear puree at the end. Not like the previously available “pinot grigio”, this is a shift from an Italian style to a French style. * Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Reserve 2000: a finished product, with great cab franc flavours but muted herbaceousness. * Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2002: world-class dessert wine, fabulous with the creamy gorgonzola. SOME INTERESTING PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH Riesling Methode Cuve Close 2000 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $18.95 Winery): Riesling has always been one of my favourite sparkling wine grapes, and this SC=2 wine is no exception. Sports both flowers and lemons on the nose and right through to the final taste. 11.7% alcohol. Chardonnay Musque 2002 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $18.95 Winery): variously described as “generous, tropical aromas”, I found the wine more suitable for aperitif or first course, not for parties as viognier would be. Definitely a food wine, despite a SC=1, with lingering aftertastes. Riesling Reserve 2000 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $24 Winery): just coming into its own, in a bone dry version, emphasizing lean peaches and a citric finish. Chardonnay Reserve 2001 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $48 Winery): 13% alcohol, and a dramatic shift upwards from regular wood-aged chardonnay. One year in French oak leads it to elegant spiciness, but cool climate also dictates another year in bottle. Bench Chardonnay 2002 Niagara (Stoney Ridge, $11.95 General List): 12.1% alcohol, and a fine wine in the tradition of Bench Chardonnays from Stoney Ridge in the past: some nuances of pineapple and butter in the mix. One of the best since 1995. Charlotte’s Chardonnay 2002 Founder’s Signature Collection Niagara (Stoney Ridge, $24.95 Winery): one of the best high-end unoaked chardonnays in Niagara, made by Jim Warren, and exhibiting lots of tropical fruit (e.g., pineapple) and refreshing citric acidity. Definitely a food wine. Select Late Harvest Vidal 1999 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $15 half bottle): a specialty of the winery, this product has always been held back for release (I just drank a 1998 earlier this year). Extra storage time promotes growth of apricot tones. Gewurztraminer Icewine 1999 Barrel Fermented Niagara (Stoney Ridge, $59.95 half bottle Winery): BF for 4 weeks in new French oak, and then 18 months maturation in more French oak. A very well developed and substantial wine, blending the spiciness of the grape variety with the spiciness of the barrel. A real treat. Cabernet Franc 2002 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $12.95 Winery): classic Franc, with nice herbs and bell peppers mingling with ripe fruit. Cabernet Franc 2002 Reserve Niagara (Stoney Ridge, $29.95 Winery): from the Wismer Vineyard. Berries are evolving in the nose, but the wine has some way to go. At 13.6% alcohol, it seems to be currently a bit hot and full with finishing tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Niagara (Vineland Estates, $18.95 Winery): very minty with traditional array of fruits, but needs time to resolve the tannins. Meritage 2002 Founder’s Signature Collection (Stoney Ridge, $34.95 Winery): merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc were vinified separately in a variety of new French, American, and Hungarian oak barrels for 10 months. The final blend is 50%M/45%CF/5%CS. Lots of smoke, tobacco, mocha, toast but also black fruits and the merlot plumminess - which makes it ready sooner rather than later. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER 2003 ======================================= by Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing Always available at www.ryerson.ca/~dtudor WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2003 -- "New Taste - New Zealand" launched today at 3:30 PM, Church at Berkeley. It was hosted by the New Zealand Trade and Enterprise group. As Robert Ketchin said, "The concept is an online portal called www.marketnewzealand.com which puts Canadian buyers and foodies in touch with top New Zealand food and beverage exporters." The press had a chance to taste New Zealand lamb, Kiwi green lipped mussels, wine (of course), plus smoked eel, kiwifruit juice, and different shades of avocado oil (each one flavoured with one of lemon, rosemary, and other herbs. Eighteen different New Zealand companies were repped. All had their food and beverages prepared by Chef Rene Kramer of en Ville Event Design and Catering. Four wineries were present (Konrad & Co., Nobilo, Coopers Creek, already in the Ontario market) including Rongopai which was seeking representation. Six stations gave us various foods which, in addition to the above, included a chestnut crumb Wellington, kiwi salads, individual Pavlovas, fruit spreads and honey. Coopers Creek presented their Fat Cat Chardonnay (well-oaked) and their Gisborne Unoaked Chardonnay, quite the contrast. Nobilo and Konrad had their Sauvignon Blancs. For more details about this marketing initiative, go to the website or email jen.koster@hillandknowlton.ca and (for wine) rketchin@ketchin.com THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2003 -- The Sonoma County Wineries Association came to town for their Canadian tour, this time to the Toronto Hilton…The midday trade event featured well-over 150 wines. Here are some notes for the wines I enjoyed; I did not taste every wine: * Alexander Valley Vineyards Chardonnay 2002: lightish, unoaked, really fruity, good length. * Arrowood Merlot 1999: soft, fruity, bright, but still needs time to resolve finishing tannins. * Barefoot Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2001 Russian River: bracing, fullish tones * Benziger Family Chardonnay 2001 Carneros: ripe, tropical and coconuts * Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2000 Estate: full, rich and still developing. * Deerfield Ranch Chardonnay 2000 Labbe Vineyard: Burgundian elegance, great finish, affordable at $32.95 from dlowe28@cogeco.ca * Deloach Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Los Amigos: fruity with a smokey finish. * Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2000: light but fruity, with a lingering finish. * Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay 2000 Carneros: focused, ripe wine, balanced finish, $34.95 from laura@airen.com * Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Bismark Ranch: approachable, ready, delicious, back taste of fruit. * Landmark Chardonnay 2001 Overlook: good quality, as always, from a luscious wine. Nice depth to the finish * Murphy-Goode Fume Blanc 2001 Sonoma: good bite to the attack, well-structured and framed. * Murphy-Goode Cabernet Sauvignon 2000: light, developing, but good quality. * St.Francis Chardonnay 2001: ripe and firm, coconut and wood tones. $23.20 from Rogers mail@rogcowines.com * Schug Merlot 2000: fruity, approachable depth. * Simi Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Landslide Vineyard: reserve level, a patient wine that requires time, well-rewarding. FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2003 – The Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada, at its monthly meeting (LCBO Scrivener Square) tasted over 50 wines. More will be tasted next month. Here are some notes on the wines I enjoyed: * Annie’s Lane Shiraz 2001: black fruit, smoke and juicy * Wolf Blass Premium Selection Shiraz 2001: another experience in rich chocolate juiciness. * Wolf Blass Premium Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2000: deep penetrating classic tones (black fruit, some tobacco leaf). * Undurraga Merlot 2002: soft, fruity, party wine. * Fontanafredda Eremo Langhe Rosso 2000: 70% barbera, 30% nebbiolo, with great flavours and a terrific nebbiolo hit, despite being less than a third in volume. * Yarraman Banjo Cabernet Merlot 2001: juicy flavours on the palate, but with a tart finish for food. * Miguel Torres Santa Digna Chile Cabernet Sauvignon 2001: juicy tones, but meant for food, really long length. Unfiltered. * Jindalee Shiraz 2002: off-dry, a bit sweet, but pleasant for parties. * Louis Latour Pouilly-Vinzelles 2001: from “En Paradis” line, lots of pears, good quality for $21.95. * Undurraga Sauvignon Blanc 2003: zesty young wine. * J & F Lurton Les Fumees Blanches Sauvignon Blanc 2002: crisp minerals for $8.95. * Jindalee Chardonnay 2003: nice balance between fruit and wood, a bit off-dry, but for parties ? * Malesan Bordeaux Blanc 2002: with 10% muscadelle for extra fruit, soft, with some wood tones. * Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2002: great mouthfeel, concentrated flavours from the sur lie treatment. * Wolf Blass Sauvignon Blanc 2003: bright, long finish, food. * Wolf Blass Premium Selection Chardonnay 2001: great character, long finish, mid-oakiness, value. * Annie’s Lane Semillon 2002: youthful zest, not heavy. * Wolf Blass Riesling 2002: tough to market Riesling in this region, but this one shows excellent quality with its long finish. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2003 – “Spain…A Wine Collection” opened again at Hart House, mid-day, with a groaning board table of food to go with what are some of the premier food wines of Europe. As always, there were some very interesting wines and some very rare wines. But a lot of products were due in Ontario just before or just after Christmas (vagueness ruled the day), and some were definitely coming in the spring. Others were for product submissions to the LCBO; some wines never even turned up for the show. A major disappointment was the lack of sherry product. Nevertheless, I ploughed ahead, concentrating on rare or unique wines. Here are some notes; I did not taste every wine: From Airen, I enjoyed the Vionta Albarino 2001 ($24) for its fruitiness, the Conde de Caralt Tinto Reserva 1999 ($17.55) for its coconut tones. From Celebrated Cellars, there was Campillo Reserva 1996 ($29.95) with its rich chocolate, and the Faustino V Reserva 1998 ($22.25). From Cipelli, there was Marques de Riscal Limousin Reserva 2000 ($17) heavily oaked, Marques de Riscal Baron de Chirel Red Reserva 1996 ($56) with depth and texture, and the Terra Firme Albarino 2002 ($26) fragrant, floral, a good seafood wine. From Eurovintage, there was Gandia Merlot 2001 ($8.85) a decent quaffer From Freixenet, there were a slew of cava sparklers, including the Reserva Real ($44.95) aged more than two years, the Freixenet XXI Brut 1999 ($26.25) and the Monastrell/Xarel.lo ($16.25), a brilliant “blanc de noirs” and certainly affordable. From Lacey’s, there was Penascal 2000 ($8.95) full, firm and delightful, soon to be available in a value magnum (%16.95), and Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000 ($13.95) with its 15 months in half French and US oak. From Lorac, there was a lineup of Lopez de Heredia’s Vina Tondonia from the Rioja. We tasted the white viura Vina Gravonia 1988, 1989, and 1991, all aging well and showing coconut ($27-29), and the tight Vina Boscania 1996 ($33). From MCO Marketing, which had about a dozen wines to show, I enjoyed Finca Allende Rioja Alta Calvario 2000 ($85, spring classics), and the full, firm Allende 2000 ($29) coming to vintages next March). The Mas de Subira Priorato Morlanda Vi de Guarda 2000 ($69, availability TBA) had good wood, a long finish, good grip on my attention, but won’t be ready for some time. Bodegas San Pablo Ribera el Duero Cantaburros Crianza 1999 ($29, Classics winter 04)had some zing to the taste, very good quality, well-balanced. From Peter Mielzynski Agencies, the Montecillo Gran Reserva 1995 ($33, consignment) was slowly showing well, needs open time. The Osborne Fino Quinta was useful as a half-bottle, $7.95. From Philippe Dandurand, the newly General Listed Felix Solis Crianza 1999 from Valdepenas region showed remarkably well, pretty good stuff, 100% tempanillo and all US oak for $7.95. A North American crowd pleaser. From Russell Woodman Agencies, there was the Bach Merlot 2000 Penedes ($10.95), soft velvet and black fruit, and the Raimat Abadia 2000 , a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tempranillo, $13.95 at Vintages. From Select, there was Valdubon Crianza Ribera de Duero 2000 ($24.25), all tempranillo and all wood tones. Delicious and long length. From Spain Only 1 and Duncan-Craig, there were almost two dozen wines. I enjoyed the Bracamonte Reserva 1998 Ribera de Duero ($40.20, excellent but needs opening time), the Bracamonte Crianza 1999 ($28.40, good stuff, more approachable), the Rondan Reserva 1996 Rioja ($27.50), and the Arazo Crianzo 1997 Jumilla ($17.75). From Torion, I loved just about all the Muga Rioja wines. Muga White 2002 ($14.95, full, ripe and with good grip), Muga Reserva 1999 ($22.50, light but fresh wood tones), Muga Reserva Especial 1996 ($38.75, reticent nose but fullish flavours, fruit on midpalate). Muga Rose 2002 ($12.75, fresh, good length, needs food instead of sipping). From Trilogy, there was Vina Portil, a new General Listing at $12.95: red fruits, some dried tones as well as sweet finishing tannins. From Vergina, there was Santiago Ijalba from Rioja, with Vina Hermosa Reserva 1997 (about $20) being good quality. Even better is the Vina Hermosa Gran Reserva 1996 ($24.40, full of stuffing, fruit and wood, terrific value at this price. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 14, 2003 – Select Wines had a mid-day media tasting of Barossa Valley Estate, hosted by Stuart Broome, the winemaker, at LCBO Scrivener Square. The 100K case company has a 50-50 ownership of BRL Hardy and the Barossa Wine Coop. This convenient equal partnership is now ten years old. For most wines or varieties, there are six levels of quality. The wines we tasted today will all be coming in within the next six months. Here was the lineup: * BVE Spires Chardonnay 2002 ($12.95, General List, Feb 04): clean fruity nose, citric backbone, generous flavours from some lees aging. but basically unoaked. * Ebenezer Chardonnay 2000 ($34, December Vintages): butter and smokey nose, 100% French oak (almost all new), BF, battonage, BA, excellent finish. 500 cases. * BVE Spires Shiraz 2001 ($14.95, General List Feb. 04): unoaked fruit, good mouthfeel, soft and approachable, some character on the finish, sip or food. 30 – 40K cases. * Maculta Shiraz 2001 ($18): more oak and tannins showing (French and US oak), full bore textured wine, needs food. * Ebenezer Shiraz 2000 ($38): good vanilla nose, light texture, good fruit on mid-palate, can age a bit more. * Ebenezer Cabernet Merlot 2000 ($38): minty, concentrated flavours, deep cassis, some hard tones smoothed out by the merlot (30%). * E & E Black Pepper Shiraz 2000 (Classics): very weighty, heavier tones of wood and fruit, deep extract, lovely wine. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2003 – At their Toronto offices, Select Wines held a tasting of Hennessy’s current cognac releases. The company says that Hennessy is the largest selling cognac in the world (and in the US where it has a 52% market share) with double digit growth for the past six years. So the company must be doing something right! The following are available in 750 mL: Hennessy VS $49.95 +8284: entry level with typical cognac taste Hennessy VSOP $69.95 +43703: a lot more elegance for only $20 more Hennessy XO $184.95 +61440: the creators of “XO” level, based on a blend of 100 eaux-de-vie, some about 100 years old. Typical rancio tones, very elegant. Hennessy Paradis Extra $379.95 +208298: for the well-heeled cognac lover, spicy, slow evolution of flavours. 200 cognacs used, mainly from the Grande and Petite Champagne areas. To ruminate over… Richard Hennessy $1869 +438929: at this level, either you have a lot of money or you have 22 friends who can split a tasting with you (highly recommended, only $81 each). A blend of 100 eau-de-vie, each specially aged, 90% Grande Champagne, mostly from 1830-1870. Baccarat decanter adds to the cost. Some oak notes are introduced, in addition to ripe fruit. There is also Hennessy Private Reserve “1873”, originally created in 1873, which was very smooth and silky in texture, mellow and floral in taste. A blend of Grand Champagne Premier Cru Cognacs, limited numbered edition, never available again. It is the first in a series of Private Reserve cognacs. More details from Select, ralphs@selectwines.ca or burnscoady@selectwines.ca WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2003 – At La Maquette, there was a small offthemenu lunch with Bruce Maclean of Philippe Dandurand Wines and Prince Alain de Polignac, whose royal lineage dates from the ninth century. He is the great-great-grandson of Mme. Pommery who was widowed in 1858 and proceeded to lead the House of Pommery. The House was sold in 1980. For the past 30 years he has been Pommery’s oenologist, creating the blends in his style “vivacious, supple, fruity and light”. The Prince is retiring from his role as winemaker, but he will still be talking about the champagnes. The new winemaker is Terry Gasto (great name), who has been in training at Pommery for eight years. We were scheduled to taste the Pommery POP Rose, the Brut Royal, Pommery Wintertime, Pommery Summertime, the Cuvee Louise 1995, and others. Unfortunately, the shipment of some 10 cases – mostly for a private dinner function – was impounded by Canadian customs and then lost. So we had a great discussion on the impact of POP, the 200 mL bottle meant for young people, and meant to be sipped through a straw. The POP cuvee is made with a maximum of fruit, and it can age quickly (one year of storage). Pommery makes 9 different cuvees, each with its own character, but within the Pommery house style. Forty different vintages are worked with to produce the sparklers. 70 – 75% of Pommery’s wines are exported. The Brut Royal, on General List, has an older aged nose, bicuity, lots of mousse, some caramel flavours, long engaging finish, a character of age and elegance. For more details on product availability, contact Bruce Maclean 416-368-3344. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2003 – Well, back to La Maquette the next day for a stunning presentation of Hungarian wines. Anonymus Fine Wines www.anonymuswines.com have opened a Toronto branch, headed by Frida Emri frida.emri@anonymuswines.com The company was founded in 2001 by six Swedes, but is headquartered in Budapest. It has partnered with seven of Hungary’s most progressive winemakers, six of whom have been “Winemaker of the Year” (different years, of course). Their wines will be exported to any number of countries, including Sweden and England. Canada is a new base of operations (Susur has already bought some wines), and the company was officially launched today at La Maquette. Invited guests had the opportunity to sample wines from the portfolio. Five of the partners are marketers and CEOs, while the sixth is Bjorn Ulvaeus, former ABBA member and producer of “Mamma Mia”. He and his wife Lena (also a partner) flew in for just this event, with a 24 hour turnaround in return flights. Six wines were served, all with accompanying food. Here are some notes: * Muscat Lunel 2002 Grof Degenfeld – Tokaj, $18 (+790188): floral, soft fruity Muscat tones and pears. Easy quaffer, but watch the alcohol (12.5%). Served with vegetable spring roll. * Bikaver 1999 Thummerer – Eger, $30est, tba: 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot. Full, firm,best with food. A fine blend, with blaufrankish and blauburger. Hearty, but not your daddy’s bull’s blood. Served with beef tenderloin, fruity sauce. * Merlot 2000 Vesztergombi – Szekszard, $34 (+881805): mute nose, lots of extract, a big wine, needed time to open. Plummy. * Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique 1997 Gere – Villany, $38 (+866889): terrific wine, well-aged already, lots of extract softened by 18% merlot added. Low acid, and melted into the food. Long finish. Served with duck confit and mesclun. * Kopar Cuvede 1999 Gere – Villany, $78 for the 2000 (+790543): 40% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 20% cabernet franc. Bordeaux blend, and Bordeaux style, tight and tannic at this point, still developing, slightly hot finish. Expect chocolate, ripe black fruit, high extract, some wood tones, and even toasty smoke. Served with a lamb chop and potato. * Rose Cuvee 2002 Bock – Villany, $18 (+784223): made from six grape varieties, Bordeaux family dominates characteristics. Fresh, fresh wine, low temperature at fermentation, even lower at bottling. Served with a cheese plate of blue, nuts, and poached pear. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2003 – “Viva la Sicilia!” was the theme for Steve Thurlow’s evening multi-media presentation on a wine and food trip to Sicily next September, 2004. It was a chance for a reunion of the previous (2003) tour and a promotion for the next tour. Oro was the venue, with food preps from Janine Saine’s new cookbook, “Sicily: a way of life in 50 recipes”, as made by Chef Dario Tomaselli. Plenty of sardines and tomato dishes. And of course there was wine repped by the Small Winemakers, Le Chariot, Ruby Wines and Spirits, and others. Here are some notes (I did not taste all the wines): Merlot 2000 Fazio: 14% alcohol, fruity, off-dry, good length, some extract. * Nero d’Avola/Shiraz 2001 Fazio: 13% alcohol: a toothy food wine * Centare Duca di Castelmonte 2000: $12.50, 13% alcohol, nero d’avola, some syrah, tight and tannic at this point but great with food. * Rallo Spirito di Rallo 2002, $9.35: 70% nero d’avola and 30% cabernet sauvignon. Raisins and dried fruit on nose. Rich Christmas cake wine. * Nero d’Avola 2000 Rallo, $15.75 consignment: l year aging in barrique, maraschino cherry and chocolate tones. * Regaleali Bianco 2002: one third each catarratto, inzolia, and sauvignon blanc. Refreshing, with enough zest and body to be a party wine or first course wine. * Duca di Salaparuta Duca Enrico 1999, $49.95 Classics, Feb 04: best wine of the show, nero d’avola 100%, aged two years in barriques, 13.5% alcohol. Full of extract, ripe fruit on mid- palate, long lingering finish. * Corvo Rosso 2001, $10.85: long a staple of the LCBO General List, tasty food wine, affordable. MONDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2003 – Madame Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle, owner of Casa Lapostolle in Chile, arrived in town, to lead a tasting of her wines, at the Fairmont Royal York mid-day. Her winery was founded in 1994, and today has 330 hectares in three different vineyards, producing over 150,000 cases a year (sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, carmenere, and syrah). The consulting winemaker is Michel Rolland, while the onsite winemaker is the French- trained Michel Frion. 80% of the barrels are French oak. She gave a presentation on Chilean wines and her own winery, inj particular. French investment in CDhilean viticulture represents about half of the total investment. Yet arable land is scarce – only 5% of Chile can be farmed, and Chilean wine production is just 2% of the global wine production. It is Alexandra’s contention that Chile’s future lies in quality wines, and Casa Lapostolle is working to that level. The company has Apalta vineyards (with 50 – 80 year old vines) as their high end growing area, about half of the total, plus hectares in Casablanca. In those times when the wine batches do not measure up to pre-set standards, then they are sold off as bulk wines to other producers. Yields are generally 1 kilo per vine (in the case of Apalta), with everything being hand-harvested and hand-destemmed. This takes 10 days for 80 people. And they are moving to organic: so far, 15% of the vineyards are certified, and the rest will follow after 2005. We blind tasted three Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre wines today, each pitted against two others not from Chile, as a test of our terroir skills, and price point knowledge. The blind white flight featured a Berenger 1999 Chardonnay ($49.95, rated by me as third), a Landmark Chardonnay 2001 ($40, rated by me as second), and the Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay 2001 Cuvee Alexandre ($29, rated first by me: light lifted tones on nose, good balance of fruit-acid-sugar, elegant burgundian style, excellent length, best with food). The blind cabernet sauvignon flight had Sterling Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($36, my rating 3), the Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma 1999 ($60, my rating 1), and the Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvee Alexandre 1999 ($29, my rating 2: dense, chunky, lots of tannins, some mint, not as approachable yet as the Arrowood). The blind merlot flight had the Casa Lapostolle Cuve Alexandre Merlot 2000 ($29, my rating 3: little nose, soft velvet on the palate, modest finish of fruit), the Chalk Hill Merlot 1998 ($75, my rating 2), and the Pine Ridge Merlot 2000 ($29, my rating 1). We also tasted samples of Clos Apalta 2000 (65% merlot, 35% cabernet sauvignon) due to arrive in Spring Classics at $75, still hard and dense but it eventually came around. There is a Cuvee Alexandre Syrah (not tasted) due in the Spring 2003 Vintages. The other three are due in Vintages in the Fall of 2004 (tentative) at about $29 each. For more details about the Chilean Casa Lapostolle, visit www.casalapostolle.com and phone the Ontario agent, Trilogy (416-968-0758). MONDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2003 – Early evening at Chiado, for a preview presentation of Finagra S.A. Herdade Esporao wines. The winemaker David Baverstock and the commercial director Manuel L. Cordeiro attended the event, to talk about the range of their portfolio. The Ontario agent is FWP Trading Inc., 416-487-6153, www.winesofportugal.ca Chiado, of course, had its usual stunning array of appetizers – all of them went well with the wines, and really enhanced them…Finagra was founded in 1973 with the purchase of the Herdade do Esporao estate. Investments over the years has led to a trickle irrigation system, new vineyards and replantings, wine tourism centre and expansion, plus the purchase of an olive estate and two cheesemaking plants. Vineyards cover 600 hectares, 75% of the oak is US with balance being French. Principal grape varieties are local ones, plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Semillon. Here are some notes about the wines tasted: White Sparkling Esporao, $23.40, a mix of arinto and chardonnay grapes, good fruitiness shines through the mousse. Private Order. * White Wine Esporao 2001, $16.90, mostly arinto grapes (good fruit), light oaking from new US oak, best with appetizers. Consignment. * White Wine Esporao Special Selection 2001, $23.40, Private Order, mostly Semillon and with BF in US oak, quite oaky in tone, off-dry on mid-palate, sip or food. * Red Monte Velho ,$11, Consignment, good house wine from Alentjo local grapes, a balance of ripe fruit and wood, clean, fruity on entry, good value. * Red Esporao Reserve 2000, $25.60 Consignment, made from trincadeira, aragones, and cabernet sauvignon. Long and robust, still needs time to shed tannins, firm but good wood-fruit balance. We also had comparisons with the 1997 (some cabernet tones, full, gutsy, and still developing well) and 1999 (age is starting to show, some smoke tones, but mute nose). * Red Esporao Private Selection 2000, $61.70, Private Order, with alicante bouchet, aragones, and syrah grapes. A powerful wine, full, firm and fleshy, tannic finish. Good wallop of syrah for backbone. * Red Aragones, $21.40 Private Order, a single varietal from aragones grapes, matured for six months in US oak. Full-bodied with spices, rich and smooth, more of a sipper than a food wine. * Touriga Nacional, $21.40 Private Order, another single varietal wine, made from touriga nacional grapes, matured for six months in both French and US oak. Full-flavoured, toasty oak, astonishingly rich, ripe and developed with plenty of spices. My overall favourite wine of the tasting, and a fabulous price… TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2003 – Back at the Fairmont Royal York, again at mid-day, and again with wine from Chile. Eduardo Chadwick led a vertical tasting of his three top red wines, the Don Maximiano (Aconcagua), Sena(Aconcagua), and the Vinedo Chadwick (Maipo). Mr. Chadwick is a descendant of Don Maximiano Errazuriz who established the original vineyard and winery in 1870. He owns both Errazuriz and Caliterra; he is also in London taking his Master of Wine courses. His company introduced syrah and sangiovese clones to Chile in 1994, and in 1995, the winery developed “Wild Ferment” wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (along the lines of Burgundian methods). Since 1999, most of the wines have been managed with organic practices. Robert Mondavi and Eduardo Chadwick formed a partnership in 1995, to create a top end wine in Chile. What is remarkable for the wine media in Toronto is to have had the opportunity to taste two different Chilean wineries on two successive days, both emphasizing the ultra-premium or iconic wines. Eduardo repeated his seminar in the evening, to invited licensees. Caliterra/Errazuriz are represented in Ontario by Philippe Dandurand Wines, 416-368-3344. Wines range in price from $70 – 80, depending on label and availability. The latest vintage of all three wines is expected to be in Ontario. Here are some notes: Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 1995: 95% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc. Fairly dense purple colour, deep cassis nose, tannic backbone in structure, balanced fruit, still needs time, still a hard wine. * Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 1996: 85% cabernet sauvignon. A more aged nose, Bordeaux in style, mouthfilling, still puckerish, hot finish, high acid. Cooler vintage. * Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 1997: 87% cabernet sauvignon. Broad black fruit sweetness on the nose, later some coffee mocha on the nose, a bit mute on entry, thick juicy finish but medium length. More fruit than substance, a bigger ripe wine. * Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 1998: 90% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc, 5% merlot. An El Nino year (more rain, less sun). Balanced nose of age and fruit, good complex Bordeaux flavours. * Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve 1999: 97% cabernet sauvignon, 3% merlot. Hot nose, reticent flavours, hot fruit, high alcohol 14%. * Sena 1995: 70% cabernet sauvignon, balance merlot and carmenere. Reticent nose, but palate was full and minty, olives, spices, medium finish. * Sena 1996: 91% cabernet sauvignon, 9% carmenere. Ripe nose and some age showing. Opens with time, elegant but broad fruit on the palate, softer finish lacking some power. 12.7% alcohol. * Sena 1997: 84% cabernet sauvignon, 16% carmenere. Fruity nose shows a lot of fruit, quite similar in substance to the Don Maximiano from the same year (same region). But more of a puckery finish. * Sena 1998: 90% cabernet sauvignon, balance merlot and carmenere. Gobs of ripe fruit, heavily laden on the palate, some vanilla and wood tones in the nose, woody spices in the mouth, soft finish. * Sena 1999: 75% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, 8% carmenere. Harder nose, more Bordeaux-like in structure. * Vinedo Chadwick 1999: 94% cabernet sauvignon, 6% carmenere. Lovely fruit nose and cassis character, tannic structure, needs time to open, good length. 600 cases made. * Vinedo Chadwick 2000: 100% cabernet sauvignon, 14% alcohol. Wood and black fruit on the nose, broad cassis on palate, softer finish suggests it will be ready ahead of the 1999. 1000 cases made. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2003 – In the afternoon, Vinos de Espana sponsored a sherry tasting and seminar, at the Hilton Toronto. The seminar explored the different styles of sherry and the food pairing possibilities. Cesar Saldana, Secretary General of the Consejo Regulador of Sherry, returned to Toronto to present some commercially available sherries. Last year, he brought with him generic bottlings of Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso, Cream, and Pedro Ximenez. This year he concentrated on what was actually available in the Ontario marketplace. Wine press and licensees – over 100 – sat down to hear his audio-visual presentation, sample the sherries, and then taste them against specific foods. Currently, there are about 56 sherries available in Ontario, mostly through Vintages. We tasted eight samples: * Manzanilla Very Very Dry (Pedro Domecq; Corby’s): some volatile acidity and salty tang on the nose, full flavours on palate, a bit sourish on the finish. Great with the marinated scallop and vinegared rice. * Fino Tio Pepe (Gonzalez Byass; $15.40; Russell Woodman): clean nose on first approach, delicate and clean on palate, need to warm up. Long, long finish. Tried with stuffed tomato wedge with goat cheese mousse. * Amontillado NPU (Sanchez Romate; $22.95 Vintages; Majestic): caramel, toasted nuts (rancio) good grip on palate, well-defined finish. Elegant. Tried with pan-seared chicken satay. Best wine of the night, for me. * Oloroso Bailen (Osborne; Peter Mielzynski Agencies): sweet butterscotch nose, some dried fruit, finished hot on palate. Tried with beef Wellington and truffle chutney. Great food-wine combination. * Medium Dry Dry Sack (Williams & Humbert; $12; Philippe Dandurand): alcoholic nose, some sherry character, best at parties or as aperitif. Paired with smoked salmon in filo with honey mustard sauce. * Pale Cream Croft Original (Croft; $16.95; Diageo): like a sweet fino in that it is clear, much like white port, both taking advantage of the trend to “light and white”. Paired with arugula and gorgonzola salad. * Cream Bristol Cream (Harvey’s; $14.20; Corby’s): baked sugar, hot dried fruit on nose, versatile for its richness. Paired with espresso infused custard in chocolate shell. * Pedro Ximenez Noe PX (Gonzalez Byass; $15.70 375 mL; Russell Woodman): pungent spices, treacle, chocolate, licorice, dried fruit, Christmas plum cake. Full body, long aftertaste. Paired with apple and chestnut puff pastry turnover. For more details about sherry, call Vinos de Espana, 416-967-0488, or email Laurel Keenan keenan@propellerpr.com FRIDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2003 – Charton-Hobbs (905-238-3222) hosted a tasting with Paolo Marutti, International Ambassador for Fratelli Bolla, at the LCBO Scrivener Square. There was a light working lunch after the tasting, which began at mid-day. Paolo brought us up-to-date on the winery’s operations in Italy and in North America. He pointed out the upgraded facilities and the increased marketing share and the quality concerns for single vineyard operations. Here are some notes on the wines: Bolla Soave Classico 2002, +17640, $10.45 General: 95% garganega. Clean and fresh, with lingering acid meant for food. Basic food wine. * * Bolla Tufaie Soave 2002, +709691, $13.50 Vintages: 90% garganega. Limited release. Full, ripe and honeyed rich. * Bolla Pinot Grigio 2002, +363622, $9.95 General: light body and flavour, higher acid, best with food. IGT Veneto. * Bolla Merlot 2002, +576009, $10.95 General: bright cherry nose, light tones, merlot taste and finish. * Bolla Valpolicella 2002, +16840, $11.45 General: 60% corvine, 30% rondinella, 10% other. Developing nose full of cherries and fruit. * Bolla Valpolicella Classico Le Poiane 1999, +135293 Vintages: excellent nose, length and finish. Limited production from Jago region, ripasso method. Some cherries but mostly age (aged in oak for two years). One of my favourite wines of the afternoon. * Bolla Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1998, +352757, $32.95 General: chocolate on the nose, a lighter style of amarone, more a heavier version of Le Poiane. * Bolla Le Origini Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1997, $44.95 tentative Classics: mainly corvina and corvinone. Good dried fruit intensity, some anise, good length, concentrated flavours on the palate. My best pick for the afternoon. * Bolla Creso Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, $34.95: 85% cabernet sauvignon, 15% late harvested corvine – both vinified separately. Two years French oak. Fruit forward, soft, not very cabby for North Americans, but certainly Italianate in structure. Food was a must,e.g., lamb. * Bolla Recioto Della Valpolicella 2001, $30.95 500 mL Vintages: limited run. Sweet but balanced with brisk acid. Very ripe cherries. 101g/L sugar. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2003 – To help celebrate Wine Aid, Steven Campbell of Lifford Wine Agency had the wine press over to Prego della Piazza for lunch. We all joined Jack Cakebread of Cakebread Cellars (I got his autograph on his cookbook, just published; review next month), Boots Brounstein of Diamond Creek, Jeanne Cabral of Heitz Wine Cellars, and Michael Solway of Pine Ridge and Archery Summit. It was informal, there was a lot of chatter with principals and wine writers. But the sit-down portion did arrive, and we were all served an endless stream of appetizers (various fishes, calamari, pizza (one with tomato, one with pear) and mains (salmon, roast beef, cornish game hen), followed by dessert. There were numerous wines, and not really enough time to focus on each. But that was not the intent. I had no time to eat, drink, and write about each wine. There was no central listing. It was the hospitality that mattered. We ate together, and we passed around the wines together, in true California style. We had opportunities to try Pine Ridge Chardonnay 2001 Carneros Dijon Clone, Benziger Chardonnay 2000 Carneros Reserve, Archery Summit Pinot Noir 2001 Oregon, and its Red Hills label (both organic), Benziger 1999 Pinot Noir Reserve, Pine Ridge Merlot 2000 Napa Crimson Creek, Cakebread Cellars 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Benchland Select (about $188), Cakebread Cellars 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Three Sisters (also $188), Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa, Joseph Phelps Insignia 1998 Napa, Benziger Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma 1999, Benziger Merlot Sonoma 2000, Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill 2000 Napa, Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 Martha Vineyard, and Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 1992 Trailside Vineyard. Fabulous wines, unforgettable company, a remarkable eating experience. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2003 – The Centre for Vine Affairs (CVA), along with the Austrian Trade Commission Marketing Board, presented a variety of Austrian wines. Renate Felsner of Weingut Felsner was there, to share her knowledge on all aspects of production. John Szabo, director of CVA, opened the discussion with a talk on recent advances in winemaking in Austria. He noted that quality wines were on the rise, at the high end of the scale. But that 35% of all grapes were still Gruner Veltliner. The leading red wines were Zweigelt and Blaufrancisch. Production rules are changing, with new codes (DAC) soon to be in effect. They will be similar to France’s existing AC, with reduced harvesting per hectare for quality. More producers are using malo- lactic fermentation to soften their white wines. The midday trade meeting was held at Crush Wine Bar. Appetizers included malpeque oysters, skewered shrimp, goat cheese, chicken brochette, maple-cured salmon, Portobello mushroom, duck confit, steak tartare, prosciutto. They were meant to go with the wines. While it was a sit-down, the tasting of the wines was informal. We started with four Gruner Veltliner; I enjoyed the Huber Gruner Veltliner (agent: David Thompson) for its deep nose, concentrated body, and assertive finish. The Leth Roter Veltliner Classic (Vergina) also was promising, with deep nose and full body, good depth on the finish. The Machherndl Riesling Smaragd von den Steinterrassen ($28, Wineworld) had an aromatic nose, some anise and bite, a food wine. For more details about Austrian wines – or the CVA itself – email John Szabo cva@crushwinebar.com or call 416-977-1234 PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH =========================== - Magnotta Chardonnay Barrel Aged Special Reserve 2002, $10.95 Winery: 12.5% alcohol, body of soft butter, some charm in the finish. - Magnotta Pinot Gris Special Reserve 2002, $10.95 Winery: some melons, made in a fruity style, but still Italianate (needs food). 12.5% alcohol. - - Magnotta Gewurztraminer Medium-Dry Special Reserve 2002, $12.95 Winery: SC=2, makes it medium-dry, more like a Muscat. Off-sweet malic tones. New grape varietal for Magnotta - - Magnotta Gewurztraminer Special Reserve 2002, $12.95 Winery: dry, distinct appley tones, but lacks Alsatian body and gusto. New grape varietal for Magnotta. - - Niagara College Teaching Winery Chardonnay 2002, $24.95 Winery: 14.1% alcohol, barrel fermented and barrel aged (all US oak), intense nose and body concentrated in rich lanolin and cream, lots of vanilla, finishes with smoke. Good as sipper. - - Peller Estate Private Reserve Merlot 2001, $19.95 Winery: barrel aged in 50-50 French and US oak for one year, good merlot component, thick extract, but still tight and not so soft. It took a week to open up for me. - - Peller Estate Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $19.95 Winery: barrel aged in 50-50 French and US oak for one year, some toasty tastes, but softened rather quickly. Fruitier than most at this age, with some chocolate. Accessible sooner. - - Peller Estate Private Reserve Cabernet Franc 2001, $19.95 Winery: barrel aged one year in half French and half US oak, showing enormous complexity. Took a week to open up, lots of black things (fruit, tea, tobacco). - - Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001, $24.95 Vintages: from the CEO’s personal vineyard but made by winemaker Tom Seaver. Cold soaked, full ML, a year and a half in French oak. Red fruit on nose, underbrush on palate, long lingering finish. One of the best pinots made in Ontario. - - Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Cabernet – Merlot 2001, $29.95 Vintages: cold soaked, full ML, a year and a half in French oak. - Black fruits dominate the nose, then oak and tobacco leaf take over, some mint appears on the mid-palate. A fine wine. but nowhere is there any indication of the blended grape proportions. - - Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Merlot 2001, $24.95 Vintages: 13.5% alcohol. Cold soaked, full ML, a year and half in French and US oak. Cherry-berry cheerfulness, with vanilla and smoke, some cassis, and the typical merlot softness. - - Magnotta Baco Noir Special Reserve 2001, $10.95 Winery: barrel aged, 12.5% alcohol, Rhonish quality with some bacon. - - Magnotta Cabernet Franc Special Reserve 2001, $11.95 Winery: some cherries and black pepper, even some herbs. - - Magnotta Pinot Noir Special Reserve 2002, $13.95 Winery: 12.5% alcohol, medium body, some red fruits in the nose, some brush and forest tones. - - Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2002, $14.95 Winery: 13.8% alcohol, black fruit, approachable already, softened herbal character, some cocoa on finish. - - Andrew Peller Signature Series Vidal Icewine, $60 Winery: nose of tropical fruits with apricots, intense honeyed character on the palate, long finish. Also available as 200 mL. - - Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Franc Icewine 2002, $78 Winery: strawberries all the way, refreshing finish (higher acidity). - - Hillebrand Showcase Riesling Icewine 2002, $60 Winery: my favourite grape variety for icewine. Peaches, clementines, citric marmalade tones. Medium-body. - - Hillebrand Showcase Vidal Icewine 2002, $60 Winery: caramelized apricots. The vidal was barrel fermented. On mid-palate, honey and some tropical fruits, but soft cream on finish. - - Trius Vidal Icewine 2002, $44.95 Winery: ripe fruit, little of the honeyed tones that one associates with icewine. Soft finish. - WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER, 2003 ========================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2003 -- A mere sixteen months after his last Toronto media visit, Matteo Ascheri of Cantine Giacomo Ascheri came to the LCBO Scrivener Square Kitchen Events room to present his latest series of releases. Ascheri is a leading producer of Barolos and other wines from the Piedmont. He is represented in Ontario by Prevedello and Mathews International at www.pmwine.com or 416-979-9153. Ascheri does not believe in intensifying the nebbiolo grape, to create heavily- laden Barolos that have high extract. Rather, he believes in normal treatment so that the wines are ready within a few years, for normal consumption. Here are some notes from the 11 wines tried: * Gavi di Gavi 2002, +850271 Consignment, $18.85 retail: stainless steel cortese for four months. Refreshing, with some finishing acid. Best with food. * Roero Arneis 2002, about $14.50 private order: fragant, light, good aperitif. Medium body and length. * Montalupa Viognier Langhe 2000, about $25 private order: extremely fruity, great length and balance, some wood (six months in barrel) plus bottle age. Spicy too. Hot finish, but a superb wine at this price. 3500 bottles made. * Dolcetto D'Alba S.Rocco 2002, about $15 private order: 12.5% alcohol, three months oak aging. Spicy, full wine, good flavours, full-bodied, with a slightly bitter finish. * Dolcetto D'Alba Vigna Nirane 2002, about $15.75 coming soon: a little less alcohol (12%) and stainless steel only -- fruit is preserved, medium-bodied. * Barbera D'Alba Vigna Fontanelle 2001, +982462, $16.95 Vintages: 13% alcohol, lightly tannic but still fruity, slight bitter finish, aged 8 months in Allier oak, good all-round wine with all mannner of Italian food. * Montalupa Syrah 1998, +702639 Spring Classics, $37: two years in oak, 13% alcohol, excellent MVC for syrah, Rhonish (of course). Ripe, berries, spice. long finish. * Barolo Sorano 1998, +711077, $47.50 Vintages: 13.5% alcohol, 28 months in oak, closed light nose, needed time to open. Dried flowers, tarry, roses, long finish. * Barolo Sorano Coste & Bricco 1999, about $75 coming soon: 13.5% alcohol, 28 months in oak (40% new), still tannic and needs time. * Barolo Vigna dei Pola 1998, +739920, $43.95 Vintages Essentials: more fragrant and more nebbiolo MVC than his other Barolos here. 13.5% alcohol, only 18 months in oak (but some new). Smooth, full-bodied and rich, ripe tannins, modest acid on finish. Great Barolo to have right now, main courses... * Moscato D'Asti 2002, about $14.50 coming soon: almost lost here was the 7% moscato, stainless steel of course, and ready now. One of my favourites, for its fresh peachy and orange tones. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2003 -- A curious wine tasting for the media, in that three VQA wineries got together to present this tasting (Malivoire, Lailey, and 13th Street) at Grano's, over the lunch hour. All the winemakers came: Ann Sperling from Malivoire, Derek Barnett from Lailey, and Ken Douglas from the Sandstone side of 13th Street. We had a light lunch of panini, barley and green bean salad, and focaccia. Malivoire reported that they expected an 80% crop in the 2003 vintage, and that they will soon be organically certified. Lailey reported that they've lost 75% of the 2003 crop, and that they are continuing with their Canadian oak program (they have five wines done up in Canadian oak). 13th Street Winery does about 2000 cases a year. For more details about any of these wines, check the relevant website: -- 14 wines presented by ann@mailivoirewineco.com -- 10 wines presented by derek@laileyvineyard.com -- 8 wines presented by Ken Douglas 905-641-1900 Meanwhile, here are some brief notes: * Malivoire Pinot Gris 2002, +591305, $18: a bit gris, some petillant, fresh. Soft texture and depth, sip or appetizer. * Malivoire Chardonnay 2002, +573147, $22 (also in halves for $13): Vintages Essential, 2000 on the shelves, 2002 later in the fall. 14.1% alcohol. BF and stainless, old and new barrels. Still leesy from the oak, closed until later. Good MVC of Euro style...We also had the Moira Vineyard Chardonnay 2000 (+573154, $36: charry nose, 13.9% alcohol, excellent depth and structure from BF, burgundian tones). * Malivoire Gamay Estate 2002, +591313, $16: fresh, whole berry fermentation, a bit lean and some raisins. Young vines. * Malivoire Pinot Noir 2002, +699975, $26 (also in halves for $15): colour of the grape, very aromatic, toasty nose, good burgundian MVC, long but currently tartish finish. As a comparison, we also sampled some Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir from 2000 and 1999 (about $59 when last available, these are from the Library): both showed coffee and toffee, rich nose, good structure. * Malivoire Gewurztraminer 2002 Moira Vineyard, +542522, $28: good intensity, its body almost Alsatian, late harvested but dry finish, lacking some bitter tones. * Malivoire Old Vines Foch, about $25 - 30 when last available, but these came from the Library): 10% or so of other grapes are normally added, such as gamay or cabernet franc. These wines are phenomenal, extremely Rhonish, almost at Pape levels. We had the 2000, 1999, and 1998. Great aging, well-made wines. * Malivoire Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2002, $25 for 375 mL: intense MVC but lacks body at this level. We also had the Dried Berry Selection Gewurztraminer 2000 ($40 when last available, drawn from their Library), at TBA levels, with a raisin nose, hot palate, great intensity. * Malivoire Riesling Icewine 2001, +591321, $36 for 375 mL: honey and peaches, long acidic finish, drying out nicely. * Lailey Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $18 winery: sweet nose, California style, not the New Zealand/Loire zest. * Lailey Gewurztraminer 2002, $14 winery: light aromas, slightly bitter finish, leanish, but good length. * Lailey Chardonnay 2002, $20 winery: all barrel fermented, creamy, buttery, lots of body. * Lailey Pinot Noir 2002, winery: large cranberry component * Lailey Vidal Icewine 2002, $25 for 200 mL at winery: stainless steel, lots of apricot fruit, long citrus finish. * Lailey "Canadian Oak Series" ($950 a barrel, crafted in US from Ontario oak) Chardonnay 2002, $29 at winery: sweet vanilla-pineapple, more yogurt than cream. Pinot Noir 2002, $35 at winery: 5 year old vines, drying out on finish, more cranberry flavours. Cabernet Franc 2002, barrel sample: herby, vanilla and toast Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, barrel sample: broad cassis, vanilla and toast Vidal Icewine 2002, $40 for 200mL winery: more body than stainless steel version and more spices (e.g., cloves). * G.H. Funk Vineyard Sparkling Rose 2001, $22 winery: fruity but also tannic. * G.H.Funk Vineyard Premier Cuvee 1999, $25 winery: rests on lees for 3 years, very toasty nose, 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. * G.H.Funk Vineyard Riesling 2002, $15 winery: some petillant character, good balance of fruit and acid. * Sandstone Chardonnay Musque 2000, $18 winery: full-bodied with unctuousness and off-dry finish. * Sandstone Chardonnay Reserve 2001, $27 winery: uses Vosges and Alliers oak, good wood and fruit, toast, medium body. * Sandstone Ganay Noir Unfiltered 2001, $20 winery: hand harvested, smokey nose and black fruits, Rhonish. * Sandstone Gamay Noir Unfiltered 2000, $20 winery: more red fruit, cherries and cranberries, but a long finish. * G.H.Funk Vineyard Merlot 2001, $27 winery: mildly tannic structure, minus some opulent fruit, 13.8% alcohol, full-bodied. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2003 -- The Niagara Wine and Food Classic 2003, billed as "an international wine and food experience" returned for the second time to Niagara Falls, September 5 through 7. Wine media from all over North America were put up -- as guests -- at the Niagara Falls Hilton. The weekend package for the general public was available for $500 plus GST and your own accomodations. This long weekend included three "grand" tastings, winemaker dinners, vineyard tours on Friday, and cooking/wine seminars on Saturday and Sunday. And a real bargain, once everything was factored in. Of course, the wine media were on a familiarization (fam) tour. Both the Wine Council of Ontario and the Niagara Classic people sponsored us. On Saturday, the media went off with the WCO to Marynissen Estates winery and to Niagara College Teaching Winery (Niagara-on-the-Lake), and then to our own winemaker dinner at Pillitteri Estates winery. In Niagara, the cooking seminars were quite interesting, with an international lineup of chefs from Washington, Philadelphia, Chicago, San Francisco, New York, plus Christine Cushing and Anna Olson from our own Food Network. The wine seminars focused on food pairings and on Niagara wines, naturally. And the food at the three tasting sessions was excellent, with participation from Hillebrand's Vineyard Cafe, the Artisan Cheese Marketing group (Quebec cheeses, goat and sheep cheeses), the Niagara Culinary Institute, Inn on the Twenty, Millcroft Inn, Summerfresh, EastDell Bench Bistro, and many others. Typical appetizer servings included veal and rice, perch, mushrooms, beef, chicken -- enough to stuff an army. I was disappointed in that there did not seem to be any handouts on what we were eating, except at the Artisan cheese location, which always had a lineup. On to the wine; I did not taste every sample (most prices were invisible, check with the winery). Here are some notes about the wines I enjoyed: * Gewurztraminer St. David's Bench 2002, Chateau des Charmes: off-dry nose, full body, good finish. One to sip. * Riesling Reserve 2002, Cave Springs Cellars: off-dry, some intense riesling character, sip or first course. * St.Urban Riesling 2002, Vineland Estates: some petillance and low aromas, long citric finish, definitely needs food. * Chardonnay Founders 2002, Stoney Ridge: good nose, MVC, longish finish, not overoaked, needs food to complement it. * Pinot Noir Delaine Vineyard 2001, Jackson-Triggs: MVC nose, light pinot but long draw in the finish, some acid in length, needs food. * Pinot Noir Founders 2000, Inniskillin: a larger pinot noir wine, with more bottle age, good finish. * Cabernet Merlot Unfiltered 1999, Henry of Pelham: good body, good example of the "cab-mer" style of blend, perhaps the future of Ontario reds. * Grand Red Trius 2000, Hillebrand Estates: dark chocolate nose, some vanilla, fruit in mid-palate, cool climate red for food. * Cabernet Merlot 1999, Chateau des Charmes: intense flavours, good food wine. * Chardonnay Unfiltered 2000 Showcase, Hillebrand Estates: a real stunner, still tight, with lees. * Merlot 2000 Showcase, Hillebrand Estates: burnt nose, off-dry on palate, full but firm tannic finish. Needs more time. * Chardonnay 2000 Founders, Inniskillin: a large wine in nose and finish, lacking some concentration on the mid-palate. * Cabernet Merlot Delaine Vineyard 2001, Jackson-Triggs: ripe and juicy, one to put up against the antipodeans (Oz, NZ, Chile, SA) * Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, Kacaba Vineyards: barrel aged, 12.5% alcohol, aromas of the barrel, intense excellence!! * Chardonnay Reserve 2000, Lakeview Cellars: good firm fruit set. * Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Limited Edition, Magnotta: off-dry on palate, soft, ready. * Chardonnay Sur Lie 2000 Signature, Peller Estates: begins slowly but ends with a wallop, best with food to engage the good finish. * Merlot 2000, Reif Estate: MVC, soft, fruity, good length. * Zinfandel 2001, Reif Estate: California style of berries, but also in new French oak, good acid length, sip or food. * Pinot Grigio 2002, Reif Estate: typical grigio, but off-dry on mid-palate, good finish. * Chardonnay American Oak 2000, Strewn: good depth of fruit, with butter/ toast points. * Strewn Three 2001, Strewn: tight and tense, will shine after cellaring, about 14% alcohol, CS45/M45/CF10 in blend. * Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Strewn Vineyard, Strewn: juicy, fruit-driven, 13%. * Cabernet Franc 2001 Strewn Vineyard, Strewn: 14% alcohol, a bit more firm, intense concentration of flavours. * Cabernet Franc 2002, Vineland Estates: not a typical nose, off-dry, juicy flavours, more a finish for sipping. * Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Vineland Estates: almost 13% alcohol, juicy, approachable, sipper. Also at the grand tastings were wines from the Vincor holdings outside of Ontario, Uncork New York (Finger Lakes, Long Island), and Forest Glen from Sonoma. Here are some notes: * Brut 1998 Methode Champenoise, Glenora Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes: a mix of riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir. Very nice sipper. * Riesling Dry 2002, Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes: fully balanced. * Chardonnay Estate 2000, Lamoreaux Landing, Finger Lakes: good intensity and grip, great fruit. * Merlot 2001, Forest Glen, Sonoma: showing lots of fruit, soft and easy sipper. * Chardonnay 2002, Forest Glen, Sonoma: more fruit, off-dry on mid-palate, good initial material. * Shiraz 2001, Forest Glen, Sonoma: 97% syrah grapes, great nose and uplifting fruit. Sip. * Cabernet Merlot 2001, Goundrey, Australia: fruit-driven, quality sipper. * Gewurztraminer 2001, Hazlitt Vineyards, Finger Lakes: off-dry, good bitterness at finish. * Merlot 1999, Bedell Cellars, Long Island: soft, great modal character, some engaging finish. * Chardonnay Estate 2002, Macari Vineyards: lighter but tighter style of chardonnay, still 13% alcohol. * Toasted Head Chardonnay 2001, R.H.Phillips, California: what can I say but toasty? Good oaking dominates but does not overwhelm. * Cabernet Merlot 2001, Sumac Ridge, BC: classic CF/CS/M blend, soft, fruity. * Meritage 2000, Sumac Ridge, BC: a step up, CS50/M25/CF25 blend, unfiltered and aged in small Fr/US oak for 15 months. One to cellar a bit. SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2003 -- A Wine Council of Ontario portion of our Niagara fam tour took us to Marynissen Estates and to Niagara College Teaching Winery for tastings. Sandra Marynissen conducted the tasting. She said they had been ladybug free in 2001, had a 40% increase in wine production in 2002, but will only have 10% of their crop for 2003 (because of the early frosts)...They do not buy any grapes. We had mostly barrel samples: * Chardonnay 2002 Barrel Fermented: done in oak for 9 months, some in US oak (toasty) and some in Canadian oak (more yogurt than cream: similar to Lailey?) * Riesling 2002: off-dry, full body, refreshing, from old vines * Gewurztraminer 2002: off-dry, some body, good bitter finish. Delightful. * Syrah 2001: barrel aged in old French oak, good complexity from vines planted in 1994. * Merlot 2001: unfiltered, barrel aged in French/US oak: some raisins, drying out, toasty, slightly baked finish. Jim Warren, the NCT winemaker, and Steve Gill, the NCT manager, took us on a tour of the Glendale facilities. The winery is a laboratory for students, but of course they don't sell any mistakes or "seconds". The shop offers the usual range of wines that we have all come to associate with Jim....Here are some quick notes from the barrel samples: * Sauvignon Blanc 2002: done in a definite California style * Chardonnay Sur Lie 2002: fruit, but also some spine * Chardonnay 2002 Barrel Fermented/Barrel Aged: almost ready, but a knockout like the 2001 -- even better (ripe fruit, evolving wood tones) * Pinot Noir 2002, Cabernet Franc 2002, Merlot 2002, Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: all were tight at this point, but developing lots of fruit, eventually. * Vidal Late Harvest 2002: a fine wine, completed the tasting. SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2003 -- Tonight was our winemaker's dinner at Pillitteri. The wine media, and other guests, had stretch white limos whisk us to the winery. Pillitteri Estates, selling 15,000 cases of icewine, is Ontario's largest producer of this sweetie. Their total current production is also 25,000 cases of table wines, totalling 40,000. 58% of their production is sold at the winery. We had a tour of the new facilities and tasting room, and we ended up in the new barrel room -- where the wines age in over 250 barrels -- for dinner. It was quite cool in temperature, which was fine by me. Coincidentially, Pillitteri was celebrating its 10th anniversary this year (June, 1993). We came from a stretch limo to a stretch table -- people were seated at one long table, being catered to by "Toast of the Town" NOTL serving group. Sue-Ann Staff is the award-winning winemaker, and she commented on all 14 of the wines which accompanied dinner. Earlier, in the new tasting room, we tried Duemila Dry Sparkling wine (sc=2), Pinot Grigio, and Vidal. At the dinner we ate soup with a macedoine of fall vegetables and double cream. With it came 2002 Unoaked Chardonnay (citric tart nose, some petillance, mouth-filling, good example) and 2002 Gewurztraminer Riesling (70% Gewurztraminer, light nose, sc=2, good grip but still young). Capellini pasta was presented with layers of shrimps and scallops, flavoured with chives, lime and ginger. With it came Sauvignon Blanc Family Reserve 2000 (very herby), and Chardonnay Family Reserve 2001 (food friendly, longish but off-dry finish) -- both very good with the seafood. The salad was mesclun with caramelized walnuts and a maple walnut vinaigrette, accompanied by a Riesling Select Late Harvest 2000 (lacking riesling intensity, but enough acid and sweetness to pair with the salad). Three slices of beef tenderloin with three sauces (bearnaise, bordelaise, raifort) and vegetables came next. The reds were Cabernet Merlot 2001 (CF43/M37/CS20, very expressive but way outclassed by the other wines), Trivalente (Cabernet Merlot) 1999 and a 2002 barrel sample. The Trivalente proved that it was a steak wine. For dessert, we had a sampling of world-renowned Pillitteri icewines, with or without the accompanying icewine soaked crepes, sauteed grapes, icewine sabayon, and chocolate strawberries injected with cabernet franc icewine. We had Vidal, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chambourcin icewines from 2002...We were certainly kept busy mixing and matching, alone or with food pairing. The Chambourcin was a knockout, with deep red fruit intensity. For more details about Pillitteri wines, call 905-468-3147, winery@pillitteri.com or www.pillitteri.com TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2003 -- Woodman Wines and Spirits (416-767-5114) put on a trade tasting of Bouchard Pere et Fils 2001 vintage Burgundies at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club (St.George) midday. There were 35 village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines from BPF and from William Fevre of Chablis. M. Luc Bouchard was pouring and discussing the wines, appellations, and vintage. Both domaines have extensive cru holdings. Parker reports watching the William Fevre teams picking only ripe fruit by hand...Here are some notes about my favourite wines of the tasting: * Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 1er Cru 2001 ($84): good grip and intensity, development on the finish. * BPF Beaune Teurons 1er Cru 2001 ($48): some intense cherries on mid-palate * BPF Echezeaux Grand Cru 2001 ($136): deep, intense flavours, great length * BPF Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Saint Marc 1er Cru 2001 ($81): in terms of what we tasted, I thought that this wine was the best red value. Dense, fruity, intense nose, long length, may develop early. * BPF Pommard Rugiens 1er Cru 2001 ($83): firm but soft finish. * BPF Santenay 2001 ($35): broad fruit on mid-palate * BPF Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru 2001 ($68): great price for a fabulous wine that delivers. * BPF Meursault 2001 ($58): impressive wood integration, firm white. * BPF Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru 2001 ($87): lovely wood and fruit knit well together. * William Fevre Chablis 2001 Les Clos Grand Cru 2001 ($72): nose of oak and spices, long finish. * WF Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2001 ($69): reticent nose, took time to open and develop, some wood on the finish, needs cellaring. * WF Chablis Fourchaume Vaulorent 1er Cru 2001 ($47): some broad fruit on the mid-palate, good MVC and decently priced. * WF Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 2001 ($38): one of the better bargains of the tasting, excellent body and mouth feel, longish crisp finish for food. The catalogue includes some 34 reds, 20 whites, and 13 chablis -- all in six bottle cases through Woodman. There were also about a half-dozen wines from the General List. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2003 -- The wine media had a sitdown, late afternoon tasting of Yangarra Park wines, from South Eastern Australia, at the Rosewater Supper Club. Peter Fraser, the winemaker, was supposed to lead the tasting and the subsequent winemaker's dinner. But he was held up by visa interviews in the US. So Randy Ullom, the chief winemaster for all of Kendall-Jackson (the parent company) arrived instead, and spoke in Fraser's place. He covered the K-J philosophy of barrel fermenting the wines and leaving them on the lees. The company in Australia uses mostly French oaks (all French for SEA wines, 70% or so for the Appellation series); the barrels are coopered in Missouri. Grapes are destemmed, with one-third having 30 day contact with skins in the vats. All the wines tasted today were released in the LCBO Vintages in August, September, and Fall Classics Catalogue. * Yangarra Park SEA Chardonnay 2001 ($15.55, +623608): creamy body, layers of tropical fruit and some oak spiciness, not overblown because of the use of French oak. 40% BF, 13.5% alcohol. * Yangara Park SEA Shiraz 2001 ($16.95, +625574): spicy, rich nose, lots of black fruit, modest finish. * Yangarra Park SEA Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($16.95, +906271): 13.5% alcohol, but elegant nose, light style; good black currant flavours, some chocolate. * Yangarra Park Merlot 2001 McLaren Vale Appellation ($35.95, +994947 Classics): soft, lifted fruit, engaging finish; 18 months in oak * Yangarra Park Shiraz 2001 McLaren Vale Appellation ($35.95, +911974 Classics): 80% French oak storage for 18 months, 20% US oak. Smoke, not very Oz-like for shiraz, more tending to Rhonish style. Needs time in bottle. 14.5% alcohol * Yangarra Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Coonawarra Appellation ($35.95, +911966 Classics): lots of spicy fruit, 135 alcohol, although nose like potpourri. For more details about these wines -- or any other Kendall-Jackson wines -- contact Maria Allan MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2003 -- A small group of wine writers and LCBO personnel met with Peter Lehmann and his agent, Andrew Green of Diamond Estates, at Epic Restaurant (Royal York). Peter had been travelling to promote his wines (the Australian wine show was coming up) and an Australian mystery writer award for 2004, plus trying to fend off a hostile takeover of his winery back home. He would end up in Europe, with discussions coming hard at the Hess Collection in Switzerland. But for the moment, we were to enjoy and discuss his wines here in Ontario, matching them with our choices of food off the lunch menu. We had about a dozen wines, including the King "Port" 1979 (still youthful), 1987, and 1995... * Peter Lehmann Barossa Semillon 2000 (+572412, $12.95 General List): refreshing, somewhat intense in almost "Old Hunter Valley" style. Lemony, rounded, soft finish good with seafood chowder. 180,000 cases made. * Peter Lehmann Reserve Riesling 1993 ($16 Australia at time of release): from Eden Valley, no longer available. Intense, full-bodied, dry finish. Unctuous. Full, ripe nose, but takes time to open up on palate. A multiple award winner. * Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2001 (+572875, $19.95 General List): juicy plums, long finish, sip or food wine. Balanced, softer tannins. Good value -- over 34,000 bottles sold in Ontario over the past year. * Eight Songs Shiraz 1999 (+724450, Fall Classics, $400 for an 8 pack): 14% alcohol, black fruit, oak, creamy spices, mouthfilling, long length. Sold only by the case -- each bottle has a different label illustration. * Stone Well Shiraz 1997 (+724625, Fall/Winter Classics, $59): we tasted the 1989, (full, still youthful, oak was well-developed), the 1996 (high tannins, tartish finish), and the 1997 (plums, blackberries, spcies, mute nose but the wine is approachable already...1,000 cases made of the 1997. More details from Andrew Green or 416-488-4922 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2003 -- Philippe Dandurand Wines invited the wine press to a tasting with winemaker Sven Bruchfeld. He is one of eight winemakers for Vina Errazuriz and Vina Caliterra; he is primarily responsible for white wines. The tasting was at the Queens Park Room within Sutton Place Hotel, midday. Caliterra was founded in 1989 by Vina Errazuriz, and in 1996 it went into a 50/50 partnership with Robert Mondavi winery to produce quality wines for the North American export market. There were the usual baker's dozen wines: here are some notes -- * Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +275909, $9.35 General : fruity, generous body, good acid finish, not overblown as in NZ style. 10 year old vines. 13.2% alcohol. * Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +263574, $10.95 General: a definite step up, using some 40 year old vines. Citrusy, limes, generous body, good zesty finish like NZ, aged sur lie for three months. * Caliterra Chardonnay 2002, +257147, $9.35 General: mute nose, some limes, but excellent length. Great with food, better than being a sipper. 13.6% alcohol, 20% barrel fermentation, 80% sur lie in French and US oak. * Errazuriz Chardonnay 2002, +318741, $10.95 General: fullish body, very light oaking, creamy character, apples, long length, good value for price. * Caliterra Arboleda Chardonnay 2000, $19 at Vintages in January 2004: a wine from Casablanca, ripe nose, lots of spices and vanilla, good length, toasty and clovey finish. BF/SL/MF/FR&US oak (all 30% new), small percentage fermented using native wild yeast. * Errazuriz Estate Shiraz 2001, +604066, $12.90 General in November: light nose, full fruit, slightly bitter finish, 14% alcohol. * Caliterra Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon, $19 Vintages: soft nose, soft flavours, hot taste, but not a dramatic cabernet sauvignon. Maipo Valley sources. * Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Max Reserva 1999, +335174, $17.95 General: good depth to the cab character, developing well, ready soon. 13.5% alcohol. * Errazuriz Syrah Reserva Max 2000, +976407, $19.95: with 8% cabernet sauvignon, all from Aconcagua Valley, good depth in the shiraz mode (not syrah), fruity, soft, hot finish. 14.8% alcohol... * Sena 1999, $79.95 at Vintages: 14% alcohol, a joint project with Mondavi since 1995 (the first premium wine in Chile). 75Cabernet Sauvignon/17Merlot/8Carmenere blend, well-aged already, good Bordeaux quality. It has aged faster than the Don (see next wine), ready now. * Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Estate 1999, $70 Classics: a bit harder for the blend (almost 100% cabernet sauvignon), more food friendly, and needs time to open. Black fruit, chocolate tones. * Vinedo Chadwick 1999, $39 Classics: midway between Sena and Don Max, but better price and character, and needs more time to develop. Minty, ripe fruit. 14% alcohol. For more details about Vina Caliterra and Vina Errazuriz, contact Marian Stillo or 416-368-3344. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2003 -- The Australian Wine Experience rolled into town, basically for about a week, although the trade show was this afternoon. Over 370 wines were on display, with more coming in next year (as I found out later). Indeed, the Atrium at the CBC Building was not very well-marked, and I missed a whole room, plus some food from Australia. Many Aussies arrived: 23 names were listed as "winemakers and industry principals", including Philip Laffer (Chief Winemaker of Orlando Wyndham) and Peter Lehmann (caught in the middle of a takeover battle)...51 tables featured Jacob's Creek, Wyndham Estate, Angove's, Mitchell, Wingara (Deakin, Katnook, Riddoch), Reynolds, Evans and Tate, Healthfield Ridge, Dowie Doole, Grant Burge, Vasse Felix, Yalumba, Penley, Xanadu, De Bortoli, Petaluma, St.Hallett, the Hardy line (Banrock, Reynella, Leasingham), Yangarra Park, Brokenwood, Greg Norman, Wolf Blass line, Tyrrell's, Lindemans, Penfolds, Rosemount, Wynns, McGuigan, McWilliams, et al...Of course, I did not taste all wines -- just some interesting reds....Here are some notes for what impressed me; availability varies. Check with the Australian Wine Bureau for terms of products in Canada * Alexandra Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Margaret River, $52: fruit shy at this point, a bit tight, but will come around in a couple of years. * Blackjack Wines Cabernet Merlot 2000: still youthful, a bit light * Bremerton Matilda Plains Cabernet Shiraz 2002: firm, good fruit set * Campbells Rutherglen Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1998: rustic nose, fine depth, not alcoholic, aged well. * Charles Melton Cabernet Sauvignon 2001: soft, chocolate * Chestnut Grove Merlot 2001: $42, delicious fruit set * Chestnut Grove Cabernet Merlot 2000: $18.75, juicy and fruity, leaps out * Frankland Estate Rivermist Shiraz 2002: easy nose, unwooded fruit, good finish * Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Shiraz 2000: deep tones, two years in oak. * Heathfield Ridge Merlot 2000: fruity and deep * Heathfield Ridge Cabernet 2000 Limestone Coast: delicious either by itself or with food. * Langanook Cabernet Merlot 2001: with cabernet franc, minty, California style * Langanook Syrah 2001: impressive, intense Rhone flavours * Mount Langi Shirz 2000: $45, and very intense, deep flavours. * Mount Langhi Billi Billi Creek Shiraz Grenache Cabernet 2000: $18, fruity with a long length. * Mount Langi Cliff Edge Shiraz 2001: $24, soft, engaging. * Nepenthe Pinot Noir 2001: showed a great finish * Olivine Merlot 2001 Hunter Valley: $16, upfront fruity * Penmara Reserve Shiraz 2001 New South Wales: $19.95, Vintages next year, tasted aged already. * Penny's Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2001: very good, more fruit than most * Peter Lehmann Clancy's Legendary Red 2001: a shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot blend -- excellent finish. * Talga Shiraz 2001 Hunter Valley: $19, lots of wood tones * Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz 1999: interesting, showed good depth * Tatachilla McLaren Vale Shiraz 2000: caught my attention by being smooth * Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Ridge Shiraz 2002 Barossa: good syrah complexity * Thorn-Clarke William Randell Shiraz 2000: $36, January Vintages - good wood, vanillin, long length. * Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: soft finish, nicely made. * Wakefield Promised Land Cabernet (80)/Merlot (20) 2002: juicy * Wakefield Merlot 2002: smooth, very juicy, sipper * Wolf Blass Gold Label Barossa Shiraz 2000: dynamite from start to finish, probably the best overall wine I tried, in terms of price ($30) * Wolf Blass Gold Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2000: good depth. * Wolf Blass Gold Label Adelaide Hills Cabernet 2001: 91% cabernet sauvignon with nine percent cabernet franc added, more character than the Coonawarra. * Xanadu Normans Adelaide Hills Old Vine Shiraz 2001: excellent, deep fruit intensity. * Yering Station Cabernet 2000: delicious, tasty, intense berries. More next year? THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2003 -- Charton Hobbs, taking advantage of the Australian wine show, featured Wayne Stehbens, the senior winemaker for Wingara (making Katnook and Riddoch) at the LCBO's Summerhill store, mid-day. Wayne brought us uptodate on the activities of Wingara and its place in the industry, and then led the tasting: * Riddoch Sparkling Shiraz 2001, +936807, $17.95 late 2003 Vintages: yeasty nose, good rich palate, long dry finish. grip okay. 13.5% alcohol. * Deakin Estate Chardonnay 2002, +588148, $9.95 General in Spring 2004: light nose, sustaining taste, fine acid finish. More food than sip. Restrained elegance, light touch of wood, classy. * Deakin Merlot 2002, +577395, $11.95 General: 13.5% alcohol, soft, fruity, velvet, some chocolate on finish, ripe. One to sip. * Riddoch Cabernet/Merlot 2001 Coonawarra, +713255, $17 Vintages: 60% cabernet mute nose, broad fruit flavours, longer finish. Still needs time to open. * Riddoch Cabernet Shiraz 2000 Coonawarra, +590489, $18.95 Vintages: 65% cabernet, 14% alcohol. Shiraz nose all the way, full palate, lots of black fruit flavours, some olives, long length. * Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $21.95est: classic Coonawarra, very meaty but medium body mouthfeel, good consistency of cabernet flavours, good for food. Ready now but will improve. * Katnook Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +737122, $18.95 Winter 2004: zesty nose, fine flavours of bell peppers and herbs, 14.5% alcohol. * Katnook Merlot 1999, +718528, $29.95 Current Instore Discovery: aromatic nose, light body but full flavours, well-aged, soft finish, some underbrush. 13.7%' alcohol. * Katnook Cabernet Sauvignon 1993, 1994 and 1996. The 2000 (not tasted) will be available at $29.55est. The 1993 was fading a bit, older nose with some drying out. The 1994 had a Bordeaux nose, long length, green bean (sweet vegetable). The 1996 was dynamite, with a vanilla nose of red fruit and good depth, long finish. * Katnook Odyssey 1998, +742387, $65.65 Fall Classics: 14 months in new oak. Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% alcohol, multiple award winner. Initially mute, older nose tones later. Sweet fruit on palate, long, long finish. * Katnook Prodigy 1999: Coonawarra Shiraz, 15% alcohol. 2 years in new/old oak. Anise, peppery, long length, Rhonish. Some tannins, full flavours, oak, and vanilla tones. 2000 is on the way, at $65.65est. For more details, contact Kris Bach or at 905-238-3222 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2003 -- There was an intriguing matchup today, Hurricane Isabel Day, with a joint Portuguese/South African wine dinner at Adega Restaurant on Elm Street...Normally, these two clubs have about 40 members each turn out to a dinner. This time, both clubs were jointly involved, and thus there were 80 diners. The cost was a mere $80 (including tax and tip), for ten wines -- five from each country -- plus a lot of food. At the opening bell (7 PM), most of the South African club members had arrived, and they were greeted by Graham Beck's excellent Brut (half pinot noir, half chardonnay) done in a toasty refreshing style, slightly citric with a long length. It had spent three years on its lees. Also for sampling with the appetizers was Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde Loureiro 2001 ($15), from the northern wine region, a single grape variety "verde". It was refreshing, bone dry, with some fruit on the end palate. It still had time to go, despite being two years old. And it was superb with the collection of Portuguese petiscos (chourico, gravlax on blini, bruschetta). Slowly, the Portuguese club members drifted in, and while most of the South African crowd were seated, the Portuguese club was milling about the bar area, doing a big number on the food. It was almost 8:30 before the first course arrived: saffron seafood risotto with mussels, shrimp, salmon (but no clam!), scallops. Here, we had three wines: Esporao Reserva White Alentejo 2001 ($24, a single varietal with good oaking and aging) which went well with my remaining chourico, Eikendal Chardonnay 1999 (6 months oak, 13% alcohol, honeyed botrytis on the nose which was a pleasant surprise that melded nicely with the saffron, good with food), and Whale Haven Pinot Noir 1999 ($26, hot, alcoholic nose, some mercaptan barnyard complexity that smoothed out with the steak). We were originally supposed to have the Bouchard Finlayson Falpin Peak Pinot Noir 1998, but there were not enough bottles in the South African wine cellar to support 80 diners. The entree was a choice of chicken, strip loin, or grilled squid (originally, it was suposed to be grilled octopus). I really wanted the squid, but felt that it was my duty as a wine writer to have the steak platform, in order to match the upcoming red wines with food. Not many people had chicken -- the rest of the house was balanced between steak and squid. I did swap a piece of meat (blue, as requested) with a neighbour, for a piece of squid (soft, melt in your mouth). With the main course came three more red wines: Cortes de Cima Chamine Alentejo 2001 ($18; lots of body, fine character, off-dry on the palate, 75% tempranillo, 25% trincadeira, approachable and soft), Quinta do Crasto Douro Red 2000 ($13.75 Vintages, the hands down winner in terms of QPR - quality/price ratio - berries, vanilla, smoke, intense fruit on mid-palate, long finish, ideal steak red) , and Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 from Cathedral Cellars ($16 when purchased, 26 months in oak, great cabernet flavours but it dissolved with my steak). With dessert -- originally flan but changed to white chocolate creme caramel -- came Delaforce LBV Port 1996, Casa dos Vinhos Fine Old Madeira 5 years old, and the fantastic L'Avenir Vin de Meurveur Noble Late Harvest 1999 ($27.15 a half-bottle when last available: NLH on the label really means "no longer here"), pure succulence. But only the Madeira went with the dessert. The others were best on their own. The upstairs room at Adega was a bit hard and noisy, with no real furniture to block sound. Thus, it was a loud evening. Sixty-four of us upstairs, 16 downstairs -- the late arrivals, who had better sound patterns there. Tables were for eight or ten, and both clubs had to mix... I was at a table for eight, but there were only two Portuguese club members with us and they were both English. Coffee finally arrived, way past 11 PM, and some people had already left even before dessert. That was the only downer of the evening, the disjointed concept of time. Better co-ordination might have solved that. They'll know better next time. At any rate, the food was excellent, the wines (in general) superb, and the price exceptional. For details about the South African wine society, try www.southafricanwinesociety.com or Eleanor Cosman eleanor.rigby1@rogers.com ( 905-762-916)1. This is their 11th year; it costs $25 ($40 a couple) to join. They have 9 or so tastings and dinners a year. The Body and Soul of Portugual Wine Club holds bimonthly dinners (no tastings), and it costs $50 a year to join. For details about the Portuguese side, contact Bill Delgado wdelgado@iceptor.ca MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2003 -- Diamond Estates held its annual wine portfolio tasting mid-day to early evening, at Bouchon on Wellington Street. Winemakers or principals attending included Gray Fowler and his wife from Tin Barn (California), Peter Flewellyn from Pettavel, and Mike Hope from Hope Estate (both Australia). Companies repped by Diamond include Birchwood and Lakeview from Niagara; Fatt. Baggiolino and Tenuta Vitanza from Tuscany; Pettavel, Hope, and Lehmann from Australia; Pascal Bouchard from Chablis; Azienda Le Ginestre and Rocche Costamagna from Piedmont; Pellegrini, Frick, Glen Ellen, and Tin Barn from California; Chat. Peyrac de Mer from Languedoc; and other estates from Italy, New Zealand and France. And a great idea was the distribution of individual sheets by producer, with prices and plenty of space to write notes. Here are some of the wines which impressed me: * Peter Lehmann Mentor Cab/Merlot/Malbec 1999 Barossa, $36.50, still needs time but showing pretty well already. * Hope Estate Three Steps Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $15.95, already five years old and a miracle at this price -- good aging, well-integrated wood and fruit, longish length. Great buy for a restaurant ready wine... * Hope Estate Merlot 2000 Hunter Valley, $19.95: dry finish, better with food. * Hope Estate Virgin Hills 1998, $50 Classics Winter 2003/4: 85%cab.sauvignon, 10%shiraz, balance merlot and malbec. Very elegant food wine. * Pettavel Evening Star Chardonnay 2000, $16.95, Feb 2004 Consignment: 20% oaked for added complexity, good tropicality showing, good price. * Pettavel Platina Chardonnay 2001, $24.50, Feb. 2004 Consignment: 100% BF, delightful sipper or with food. * Pettavel Evening Star Cabernet/Merlot 2001, $16.95 Feb. 2004 Consignment: 60% cabernet sauvignon: aromatic nose, fruit on mid-palate, some tang to the finish, for food. * Pettavel Platina Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $24.50 Feb 2004 Consignment: very juicy, 18 months in French oak, sip or food, great price for this quality. * Tin Barn Syrah Coryelle Fields 2001 Sonoma, $59.95: cherries initially, but very Rhonish on the mid-palate through to the finish. French style? * Tin Barn Zinfandel Jensen Lane 2001 Russian River, $49.95: off-dry complexity, overthetop fruitiness, still developing. * Lakeview Cellars Meritage 2000 Niagara, $15.95: with cab, sauvignon, cab. franc and merlot, very juicy and approachable now for restaurants. * Cantine Due Palme Primitivo Ettamiano del Salento 1999 Puglia, $14.95: full and fruity, bargain priced for the wine list. * Azienda Cantarutti Alfieri Antizio Rosso 2001 Grave/Friuli, $15.95: a stylish cab-merlot blend, very good at this price level. * Azienda Cantarutti Alfieri Tocai Friulano 2001 Colli Orientali/Friuli, $17.50: a bit of coconut in the nose, terrificly engaging finish, good value. * Vinacola Carminucci Chardonnay Naumachos 2001 Marche, $17: yes, a macho but polished wine with good fruit set and finish. * Fattoria Baggiolino Poggio Brandi 1997 Tuscany, $36.95 Classics Winter 2003: supertuscan with long flavours, affordable, and ready for your list now. Highly recommended. * Weingut Allram Chardonnay Strasser Wechselberg 2000 Austria, $25.95: a fabulous wine, rich texture, unctuous body, oaky toast, developing well, good price. * Guy Allion Le Cerf Joli Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Touraine, Jan. 2004 Consignment: full herbaceous character in the Loire-New Zealand style. * Pascal Bouchard Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2000, $34.95: phenomenal flavours on the mid-palate, and lingering finish. A bargain at this price. * Pascal Bouchard Chablis Grand Cru Le Clos 2000, $85: I finally caught up with this wine, after missing it three times over the past 14 months. Good fruit, and long engaging finish, but pricey. Your call... For details about any of these wines, call Diamond Estates at 416-488-4922. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2003 -- Alicia Lau (416-818-8785) runs Vin-ho Wine Company, an exclusive agent for Brazil's Miolo Winery in Ontario -- or www.vin-howine.com She had her launch at the LCBO Scrivener Sqaure Event Kitchen, bringing in Carlos Eduardo C. Nogueira, the Export and Marketing Manager of the Miolo Winery, The wine press sampled two whites and six reds, both as sippers and with a standup lunch. This year Miolo contracted flying winemaker Michel Rolland, to internationalize the Miolo brand. He will be emphasizing terroir. But all the wines we had were from before his involvement.. * Miolo White Selection NV, $11.98: a blend of chardonnay, riesling italico, sauvignon blanc, and semillon from different years, ensuring consistency. Good sipper, good fruit. * Miolo Chardonnay Reserve 2002, $13.98: slightly floral, barrel fermented, young vines. Enough complexity to suggest food rather than sip. * Miolo Red Selection NV, $11.98: a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir and alicante bouchet from different years. A floral wine, very substantial in the mouth, delicious with food (or sip). * Miolo Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000, $13.98: still tight and evolving but the structure is there. * Miolo Terranova Shiraz 2002, $13.98: red fruit tones dominate the nose, but the wine is balanced despite fresh fruit and young vines. * Miolo Terranova Cabernet Shiraz 2002, $12.98 for half-litre bottle: intense nose, a 50-50 blend, full-bodied. Second vintage, but already a winner for its California style (bell peppers, cassis jam, body, fruit, etc.). A great purchase for the wine list, especially since it is in half-litre bottles. * Miolo Merlot Reserve 2000, $13.98: full-bodied, soft typical finish, still needs some time to evolve. * Miolo Lote 43 1999, $30: a premium wine from cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes grown on plot 43 of the company's vineyards, but only made in good years. Aged in oak, and the quality shows. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2003 -- Peter Mielzynski Angencies (PMA) held a tasting of Caves Alianca higher end wines at Tasting Rooms, mid-day. Mario Neves, who has been coming to Canada every year for about two decades, was the chief resource person. Todd McDonald was the chief agent responsible for the tasting. We sipped wines from Alianca's consignment area, about 11 of them, and Tasting Rooms supplied some of its usually brilliant appetizers. For more details, contact Todd at 905-820-4117 ext 316 or * Caves Alianca Galeria Bical Branco Bairrada, $10.95: light patio wine or first course white. The only white shown today. * CV Galeria Tinta Roriz Douro, $13.95: full and firm, good fruit but a modest finish. * Alianca Particular Dao 2000, $15.95: some oak from barrel aging, really good length. * CV Quinta da Cortezia Tinta Roriz 2000, $19.95: deep, unfiltered, dense fruit. * Alianca Classico Cabernet/Merlot 2000, $13.95: good cabernet hit, smoothed out by the merlot, good North American appeal. * Alianca Particular Palmela 1999, $13.95: from the periquita grape, substantial wine at this point, well developed, and approachable. Ready for your wine list. * Alianca Foral Grande Escolha Douro 1999, $14.95: touriga nacional, roriz, and others in the blend, aged in oak, good intensity. Great with food. * CV Alabastro Reserva 2000 Alentejo, $17.95: has a touch of cabernet, very elegant and refined, best value wine of the tasting. It grew on me. * CV Quinta dos Quatro Ventos 2000, $34.95: the 1999 is at Classics. Many steps up in quality. Reticent nose needs time to open, excellent length, some drying out already. * CV Quinta das Baceladas Single Estate 1999, $34.95: crafted by Michel Rolland, who appears to have locked up the Portuguese-speaking countries. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, baga. Toothy, takes time to open, but will ultimately be a winner, especially at this price. * CV Quinta da Terrugem Single Estate Alentejo 1999, $39.95: made from local varieties such as aragones (tempranillo) and trincadeira. This is a rare wine, showing a fine dried currant nose. Body begs for food. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2003 -- There was a major South African wine tasting at the Sutton Place Hotel, mid-day, from 2:30 onwards. The tasting focused on wines coming through Ontario Vintages, the Consignment program, and private order products. There was a special table (number 9) featuring the 2003 Five Star red wines chosen by the John Platter team -- ten in all. Some winery principals were in attendance. Wineries represented included Delheim, Steenburg, Bellingham, Nederburg, Durbanville Hills, Graham Beck, Jardin, Laborie, KWV, La Motte, Rust en Vrede, and others. I did not taste all the wines; here were some of the more interesting ones: * Cape Classics De Toren Fusion V 2000, $35 Classics: a meritage-type blend. * Cape Classics Culraithin Shiraz 2001, $29.95 Feb. 2004 Vintages: intense fruit, good French style. * Delheim Grand Reserve 1999 (from Wineworld Importers): excellent nose and body in this meritage wine. * Douglas Green Chardonnay 2003, $10.95 (from Select Wine Merchants): some anise, refreshing, good tropical flavours, creamy. * Douglas Green Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $10.95: deep and tannic, good value at this price. * Nederburg Shiraz 2001, $12.95 (from Mark Anthony): full syrah flavours, at a bargain price. * Distell Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $24.40 Vintages: absolutely massive in body and flavours. * Kumala Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2003, $14.95 Consignment January (from Diamond Estates): good citric tones, lovely finish, food wine, good price. * Kumala Reserve Merlot 2003, engaging nose, soft and fruity, ready now. * Kumala Winemakers Select Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2002, $25: dense body but soft, supple flavours. * KWV Cathedral Cellars Chardonnay 2001, Vintages April 2004: intense fruit and wood tones, longer finish. * KWV Tumarra Titan 2001, $18.95 (from Maxxium): CS67/M15/CF11/Mal7, and good detail in the crafting of this bordeaux-style blend. * Guardian Peak Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache 2001, $26.95 (from Thompson Vintage Trade): very much a north Rhone style wine, fabulous in its body and its concentration. Because it is S/M/G, it is totally different from Australia's G/S/M, which is more south Rhone. * Vin Fruco Oak Village Sauvignon Blanc 2003, $11-12 (from DS Sutherland): zesty and tasty, best as a first course wine. * Vin Fruco Inglewood Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $15: more body and more fruit on mid-palate. * Robertson Winery Merlot 2002, $12 (from RKW Wine Imports): soft, fruity, engaging finish, affordable. * Vergelegen Chardonnay 2002, $15.95 Vintages: good texture, in a medium-bodied white wine, lovely finish. The tasting at the John Platter 5 Star Wines table was a little scattered, and availability/prices were a bit fuzzy. All the wines were, of course, brilliant, especially the Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (good depth), Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (youthful), the Rustenberg Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (soft and fruity). My personal favourites were the Ridgeback Shiraz 2000 (old nose, Rhonish character), the Vergelegen 2000 (Bordeaux style, 14.5% alcohol), and Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (14% alcohol, shows depth requiring food, cellar it). SOME PRODUCTS SAMPLED THIS MONTH ================================ * Peller Estates Heritage Series Pinot Gris 2002, $10.50 winery: aged five months on lees, off-dry feel, clean, light spicy flavours. * Peller Estates Heritage Series Muscat 2002, $11.95 winery: sussreserve for off-dry complexity, patio wine sipper. Good muscat MVC. * Peller Estates Private Reserve Dry Riesling 2002, $14.95 winery: aged on lees for six months, with citric aromas and flowers, crisp finish. * Peller Estates Private Reserve Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2001, $18.95 winery: 13% alcohol, stainless fermented, aged 80/20 in French and US oak for a year. Slightly tropical/vanilla spiciness, medium body, crisp citric finish. * Santi Sortesele Pinot Grigio 2002 Trentino, +637603, $11.95 General List: fuller flavour than most pinot grigios from Italy... * Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2001, +589432, $11.25 General List: from white grenache, clairette, roussanne, viognier grapes; fresh and peachy, sip or food. * Hillebrand Estates Late Harvest Vidal, $12.95 half-bottles, winery and Vineyards stores: medium sweet (sc=8), oranges and peach-apricots tones, some lingering acid on finish. * Hillebrand Estates Harvest Gewurztraminer 2002, $9.95 +554378 General: another sussreserve wine, very Alsatian in nose, spicy body and finish. * Hillebrand Estates Harvest Riesling 2002, $10.45 +88377 General: off-dry feel, apricot and apples, refreshing for patios. * Hillebrand Estates Harvest Chardonnay 2002, $10.95 +88385 General: some vague oaking helps top up the flavours, but it is still a light to medium-bodied wine, better with first course food than anything else. * Peller Estates Private Reserve Gamay Noir Barrel Aged 2001, $18.95 winery: a year in 70/30 French and US oak, with full malolactic making this a food wine, some tart-sour red fruit tones. * Whistler Shiraz 2000 South Asutralia, +902130, $36 Classics: great syrah character, a challenge to North Rhone. Good value. * Hillebrand Estates Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $10.95 winery and Vineyards stores: 15% of this is cabernet franc, which gives it an extra herbal zest plus black fruit component. Could use another year or two. * Hillebrand Estates Harvest Cabernet Merlot 2002, $10.95 winery and Vineyards stores: cabernet franc at 50%, cabernet sauvignon 35%, merlot 15% -- the merlot contributes an extra feel of velvet, good fruit, sip or food. Easy. * Hillebrand Estates Harvest Gamay Noir 2002, $10.25 winery & Vineyards stores: lots of interesting aromatic red fruits in play here, but easy sipper. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SUMMER, 2003 ======================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at THURSDAY, JULY 17, 2003 -- The Australian Wine Bureau Canada and the NSLC had their inaugural Australian Wine Fair at Pier 21 in Halifax, Nova Scotia -- and as luck would have it, I was there. Actually, I was at my daughter's Tempest Restaurant in Wolfville...but it is an easy scoot down to the South Shore. So I went. There were about 80 wines available, plus an onsite store for both the trade and the consumers (who came in the sold-out evening). This was the FIRST show, and for me, it was a precursor to the big September show in Toronto. What struck me about this show, besides the reasonable tasting scale, was the attitude of the trade. To them, it was all new. There were many knowledgeable people who were seeking more knowledge. They were serious. It made me feel that Toronto is just a wee bit jaded with trade shows. The usual agents from national offices or Ontario were there, plus a few locals who I did not know. Some (I did not taste all) of the wines I enjoyed (and they will be out in the Ontario marketplace) included: -Angove's Sarnia Farm "Padthaway" Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, +469312, over $20, a big wine with depth, a bit tight at the finish, 13.5% alcohol -BRL Hardy's Tintara Chardonnay 2000, +102236, over $20, with its good wood complexity. -BRL Hardy's Barossa Valley Chardonnay 2001, +598136, under $15, with its spine of flavour and finishing acids. -Berenger Blass Maglieri McLaren Vale Merlot 2000, +102152, under $20, with its chocolate tones. -Wolf Blass Brown Label Shiraz 2000, +390872, about $35, a classic. -Peter Dennis Shiraz 2001, +407361, about $20, with its good grip and fruit. -Peter Dennis Matilda Red Blend 2001, +600346, about $20, with shiraz, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, soft, fruity, good length. -Grant Burge Hillcot Merlot 2001, +102046, about $22, jammy. -Grant Burge Kraft Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +102053, under $20, grassy and very compact. -Howard Park Madfish Red Blend 2000, +588871, over $15, a soft blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc). -Howard Park Shiraz 2000, +588855, under $20, good flavours, toothy. -McWilliams Hanwood Chardonnay 2001, +557934, about $15, better with food than as a sipper. -Plunkett Blackwood Ridge Shiraz 2001, +507277, under $25, was hot and fleshy but finished delightfully with a long length. -Plunkett Stratbogie Ranges Shiraz Reserve 2001, +630145, about $35, 14.5% alcohol, lots of bacon and smoke. Turned down as a listing by LCBO.... -Sandalford Premium Shiraz 2001, +454850, under $30, dry but sweet on the palate. -Southcorp Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2001, +611210, under $25, had good stuffing. -Southcorp Lindeman's Reserve Chardonnay 2001, +415067, under $15, was from Padthaway and showed lots of limey flavours. -Southcorp Wynn's Coonawarra Red Blend 1999, +511600, under $20, was the best wine for the money, of all the wines I tasted. It had 61% cabernet sauvignon, 25% shiraz, and 13% merlot -- plus 100% plummy fruit flavour. -Wingara Riddoch Shiraz 2000, +628552, under $20, showed good fruit in its dense structure. -Xanadu Normans Encounter Bay Shiraz 2001, +102111, about $15, was rich, ripe, and full of development. So was its mate, the Cabernet Sauvignon, +102129. MONDAY, AUGUST 18, 2003 -- At Grano's, over an exceptional lunch, the Toronto Symphony Orchestra's Fine Wine Auction catalogue was unveiled. Mary Heinmaa, Sibylle Otto, and Marianne Oundjian had been working hard at lining up the many events and the many bottles that go into this annual fundraiser. The date has been moved up in the calendar so as not to conflict with the new LCBO November wine auction. Robert Jull of Vinifera Wines professionally appraised all donations to the auction, which will take place October 2 at The Ontario Club. The auction is just one of six Fine Wine Festival fundraising events for the TSO. Another key event is the Festival Wine Tasting on September 23 at the Design Exchange; 26 wine agents have already signed on. Details for all events are at This is the thirteenth annual auction, and it has expanded into a whole festival, beginning September 17 with a tutored tasting of Corsini Wines (Tuscany) at the Columbus Centre. Princess Giorgiana Corsini will come along to lead the tasting. She is also speaking about Tuscan gardens on September 18 at the Civic Garden Centre. On September 19, there will be a Gala Dinner in her honour at the King Edward, followed by a lecture on the Corsini art collection on Sunday. All of the festival events are listed at the website. Roberto Martella of Grano provided us with a variety of lunch dishes, such as smoked salmon salad, grilled calmari, fried calmari, foccacia, salads, penne with basil and tomato, pork tenderloin, lemon gelato, and coffees. Robert Mondavi contributed some lunch wines, Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Private Selection) and Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (Private Selection), both fruity sippers that went well with a mixture of Italian foods. For more details about anything concerning the fundraising efforts of the TSO, check the website or call 416-593-7769x358. THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2003 -- The Ontario Wine Society hosted a "Bin End" dinner at La Maquette. The idea is to celebrate the end of summer with the end of some wines from the Society's cellar, to have a dinner at reasonable cost (this one was $70 including tips and taxes). All of the wines are odd bottles left over from previous tastings, too small in number to have a mass tasting, but ideal for individual tables. Members had an opening white wine reception. There were two whites at each table of eight diners, three reds at each table, plus one Late Harvest and one Icewine per table. It was mix and match throughout the room, with a variety of hybrids and viniferas. Each person got to taste seven wines with dinner plus about a dozen more at the reception (if you only took an ounce or less from each wine offered). Wineries at the reception included Magnotta, Trillium Hill, Strewn, Jackson Triggs, EastDell, Hillebrand, Harbour Estates, Pillitteri, with the years 1999, 2000, 2001, and varieties of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Chardonnay (and its Musque). Compared to last year, most of the older white wines were still holding their own...At dinner -- I cannot comment on the wines I didn't have -- my table had Harvest Estate Chardonnay 2000 (unoaked, fresh, fruity), EastDell Bistro Blend 1999 (corked) and 2000 (lots of fruit), Cilentro Grace 1999 (a Bordeaux-styled red, still got lots of time to evolve), Magnotta Cabernet Franc 1999 (vegetative, best with food), Peller Estate Late Harvest Vidal 1996 (just perfectly dried out), and Willow Heights Vidal Icewine 1997 (still edging with sweetness, but good acidic finish). La Maquette provided its usual terrific gloved service, with lots of wait staff. We started with a puff triangle of mushroom, followed by an arugula salad with raspberry vinaigrette and confit of duck (out of season). These were with the white wines, the two at the table plus any assortment leftover from the reception...The main course was sliced roast veal striploin in a Dijon mustard sauce with seasonal vegetables. (Aside: this the second "Dijon mustard sauce" I've had in two weeks, from two different high end restaurants. Both were heavy on the cream but meagre on the mustard...It didn't used to be this way -- is this now a trend?) Peach flan with creme anglais was enormous and consequently heavyish. It was washed down adequately by the sweeties. Kudos to Bob Moore for the organization, and to those gentlemen (not I) who donned jackets and ties on one of the steamiest days of the summer... TUESDAY, AUGUST 26, 2003 -- Simon Bower, proprietor of YYZ, hosted the Wine Writers Circle of Canada this evening. He and Chris Zielinski (former sous-chef of Lotus) proffered a tasting menu for our delectation. YYZ opened at 345 Adelaide St. West, just east of Spadina in the Theatre-Fashion district. It has a wine bar, private party room (which is where we were, a room that can be sectioned off to hold 24 seated or 35 standing), smoking lounge, and patio. Details of the restaurant, plus all of their menus and wine lists, are at www.yyzrestaurant.com The restaurant had just won a Wine Spectator wine list award, and Simon wanted the WWCC to experience the restaurant's cuisine as well as its award-winning wine list. Most of the wines are from the LCBO Consignment Program, others are from private orders. Of interest is the wide range of wines by the half-bottle. There are some 40 serious white table wines, and about a hundred serious red wines. Most are from California and other New World regions, plus France and Italy. Simon also offers a few wine deals: there are wines by the glass in either two ounce or five ounce pours, there are tasting flights of 14 ounces for about $30, there are several collections of half-bottles (a tasting for two, a vertical of Shafer cabernet sauvignon, a horizontal of Napa 1998), plus flights of full bottles such as a vertical of Caymus cabernet sauvignon, Grgich Hills cabernet sauvignon, or a horizontal of Napa 1996. There is also a selection of magnums from California and one from Barolo. In the tasting platforms (samples, verticals, horizontals), the total price is much less than the individual bottle prices -- a great idea. The basic menu features fresh rack of veal from Australia, halibut, Quebec foie gras, as well as freshly made sushi every Thursday and Friday from 4:30 PM. And the proof is in the pudding: so on to dinner we went. An amuse geule of gazpacho was topped with lobster meat and some heat -- it disappeared too quickly -- and nicely complemented by Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Franc Rose 2002, full of off-dry strawberry tones. Smoked Bonito broth with seared tuna slice and lobster mushroom nicely harkened back to the amuse. It was accompanied by Crane Canyon Viognier-Gewurztraminer 1999, listed at $68, and one of the best wines of the night (aromatic but very dry in body with bitterish finish, and melded with this course)...Pellegrino sparkling water was never far away, nor were housemade breads and crackers...Next up was a warm scallop, foie gras and prosciuto terrine with a grapefruit vinaigrette and prosecco. The scallops were sliced and layered with slices of foie gras, bound by prosciutto -- entirely delicious, and a great texture feeling on the palate. Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2001, listed at $65, was an admirable accompaniment, but more with the scallops than with the foie gras. Intermezzo was a sorbet of golden plums, ginger, and vanilla vodka: entirely dry and a great cleanser. And I think everybody else was pleased with this dish, too, after a continuing stream of sweet sorbets at other functions at other places, in the past. The main was a roast rack of lamb, rare or medium, with asparagus (white and green), some braised lamb between the rack joints, but also with a hefty dose of mint. The side veg was a delightful layered sweet beet, potato and goat's cheese flan. An ideal playoff against the meat and the balsamic glaze. It may have overpowered the Kenwood Pinot Noir 2001 ($58), with its light nose, broad fruit on the mid-palate and soft tannins, almost an off-dry finish. Starts off like Oregon but finishes California...Muskoka wild blueberry spring rolls (an upscale canoli, with its coulis presentation and cream-based stuffing) completed the meal, with a Pillitteri Vidal Icewine 2000, nicely brisk (I usually prefer a Late Harvest with dessert, and Icewine as a separate course). The lagniape was a small cheese sampler with fresh fig. And the Icewine went better with this than with the dessert. There were accolades at the end, of course. For more details on meals like these, the wine list, or newly evolving dishes, call the restaurant at 416-599-3399, or check the website. SAMPLES AND PRODUCTS TASTED, JULY AND AUGUST ============================================ All products are available, LCBO retail prices quoted: Some whites: * Entre-Deux-Mers: Chateau Bonnet 2002, +083709, $12.95 General: a fresh and fruity white from sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle grape varieties in a 45-45-10 blend. * Chile: Gato Blanco Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +219048 General, $7.95: 13% alcohol, and 100% sauvignon, night harvest, stainless steel cold fermentation, light and refreshing. Appetizer, or late reception sipper. Also in magnums (+303982) * Spain: Cavas Hill Oro Penedes Hill Muscat-Xarello, +610071, $7.95 General: stainless steel production ensures freshness. Most of this wine is Xarello, although Muscat is mentioned first on the label -- probably because it is easier to pronounce! Flower flavours and off-dry finish. Aperitif or sip. * Portugal: Caves Velhas Alpendre 2001, +637488, $8.45 General: from the Palmela region, with moscatel and fernao pires grapes, cool stainless steel all the way. Floral, citric tones, muscat aroma, finishes dry and crisp. Good first course wine. * Australia: Woolpunda Yellow Block Chardonnay 2002, +627208, $9.95 General: 13.5% alcohol, from the Riverland Murray Mallee region in South Australia, some French oak barrel fermentation and storage, but then mixed with fresh stainless steel product. Limes and tropical fruit mix well, long finish suggests sip or food. * Australia: [Yellow Tail] Chardonnay 2002, +627802, $10.25 General: commercially smooth and easy quaffer, tropical fruits, apples, limes, and vanilla from French oak. Drinkable, party patio wine. * Burgundy: Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay 2000, +933077, $19.95 Vintages Essentials: blend of oak-aged d'Or with stainless steel Chalonnais and Maconnais grape sources. 13% alcohol. Fruity elegance, a short taste of French oak, and capable of aging. Aperitif or cheeses. * D'Oc: Fortant de France Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +273235, $8.95 General: one of the best sauvignons available at this price. The magnum is even cheaper -- $15.95 +415448. 50% of the grapes had prolonged skin contact, there is no malolactic fermentation, matured on the lees for three months, and then released. A good job. Brilliant aperitif. * Ontario: Peller Estates Heritage Series Dry Riesling 2002, +582817, $9.95 General: cool fermentation in stainless steel, light body, citric tones plus apples. Aperitif or first-course wine. * Ontario: Peller Estates Heritage Series Chardonnay 2002, +582825 General, $8.95: stainless steel production with some light oak finishing. Pear tones with some tropical fruit and vanilla, light body, enough acid for a first- course wine. * Ontario: Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2001, +981159, $28 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: barrel fermentation, aged on lees for a year in 90% French and 10% US oak. Nose appears to be full of oak tones, with toast, baked fruit, nuts. Full bodied wine, finishes off-dry from the oak. * Ontario: Hillebrand Trius Chardonnay Niagara-on-the-Lake 2001, +497248, $16.95 General: aged on lees for a year in 95% French and 5% US oak (25% new), full malolactic fermentation. Plenty of oak aromas, but finishes creamy with some butterscotch. Needs food. * Ontario: Hillebrand Trius Riesling Dry 2002, +303792, $14.95 General: cool fermentationa in stainless steel. Citrus, peach. Opens florally and closes with zest. Good first-course wine. * Ontario: Hillebrand Trius Chardonnay Lakeshore 2001, +291484, $18.95 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: lees aging for one year in 90% French and 10% US oak (25% new), full maloloactic fermentation. Rich tropical fruit bouquet, plus oak tones near end of palate. Medium-bodied, creamy. Needs some food. * Ontario: Hillebrand Trius Vidal Icewine 2001, +137687, $44.95 half-bottle Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: aged 9 months in 88% French and 12% US oak absorbas some of the fruity vanilla tones. Lots of refreshing apricot jam intensity. * Ontario: Hillebrand Collector's Choice Chardonnay 2001, +291682, $15.95 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: aged in US and French oak for a year for some complexity and softness. Apples, lemons, smoke, toast, butter all play around here, can be resolved in six months or so. * Ontario: Hillebrand Vineyard Select Pinot Gris 2002, +306894, $10.25 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: very comfortable, useful white, made in cool fermentation and stainless steel. Fresh, not acidic as in Italian style. * Ontario: Hillebrand Vineyard Select Sauvignon Blanc 2002, +386128, $11.25 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: stainless steel, fresh and vibrant grassy wine with some citric tones, aperitif or first-course wine. * Ontario: Hillebrand Vineyard Select Gewurztraminer 2002, +291740, $10.25 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: some added time in skin contact plus the freshness approach of cool fermentation and stainless steel. Some sussreserve to make it off-dry, and introduce pear tones. Not much Alsatian bitterness on length. Patio wine. * Ontario: Hillebrand Vineyard Select Muscat Reserve 2002, +291518, $10.25 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: cool fermentation, stainless steel, and sussreserve for fresh and off-dry character. Good MVC intensity for muscat (oranges, peaches). Easy drinker for patios. Some reds: * Chile: Castillo de Molina Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, +339176 General, $12.95: 14% alcohol, a classic big cab (pepper, chocolate, cassis, oak) with soft tannins, very fruity. Ready at Christmas. * Chile: Gato Negro Merlot 2002, +272518 General, $8.45: 13% alcohol, all merlot, soft and round, medium bodied and medium finish. Sipper. Also in magnums (+582411). * Chile: Gato Negro Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, +188193 General, $8.45: 13% alcohol, all cabernet sauvignon, stainless steel and older French and US barrels, full-bodied fruit, soft tannins, longish finish. Sip or food. Also in magnums (+280719). * Italy: Trentacinquesimo Parallelo Zinfandel Primitivo di Manduria 2002, +612754 General, $8.95: 14% alcohol, from Puglia, full-bodied and hotly alcoholic, hand harvested, mostly stainless steel to preserve freshness. There is no "zinfandel" here, but the grape "primitivo" is related. * Bordeaux: Chateau Bonnet 2000, +099044, $15.95 General: the label seems to have dropped the word "Reserve". Still, the wine is full, spicy, and good value. 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot, aged in new oak (French, of course)... * D'Oc: Chantovent Domaine des Fees Merlot 2001, +526210, $8.95 General: 12.5% alcohol, 6 - 9 months new French oak, 100% merlot, lightly elegant, lush, soft tannins for sipping. * D'Oc: Chantovent Domaine des Fees Shiraz 2001, +589457, $8.95 General: 12.5% alcohol, similar aging, 100% syrah -- but here called "Shiraz"...I guess we know the audience being aimed for...vanilla and strawberries, best as sipper. * D'Oc: Chantovent Domaine des Fees Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, +526970, $8.95 General: this completes the trio, 12.5% alcohol, same oak aging and treatment, some bell peppers and vanilla, tannins present. Sip or food wine. Good price. * D'Oc: Fortant de France Merlot 2002, +293969, $9.45 General: 12.5% alcohol, soft, fruity, delicate, smooth tannins to the finish. Sip or food. Also in magnums (+433193). * D'Oc: Fortant de France Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, +218123, $9.45 General: 12.5% alcohol, full bodied wine, some MVC through a half year's oak aging, roasted tones (coffee, chocolate, toast), vanilla finish. Best with food. Also in magnums (+415455) * Beaujolais: Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages "Combe aux Jacques" 2001, +365924, $14.95 Vintages Essentials: bright and fruity strawberries, capable of slight aging, useful as a first-course. * Spain: Hijos de Antonio Barcello Penascal 2000, +343434, $8.95 General: a nifty red from the Castilla y Leon region, made from 90% tempranillo and 10% garnacha (grenache), aged in US oak only a short time. Black cherries, raisins, chocolate, soft and ripe tannins. Medium bodied and extracted. * Spain: Cosecheros y Criadores Candidato Oro 1999, +523811, $7.95 General: from the emerging Castilla y Leon region, this wine is already four years old. A Rioja knockoff (90% tempranillo, 10% garnacha), aged 14 months in oak. Toothy. * Rioja: Martinez Bujanda Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000, +356089, $13.95 General: 13.2% alcohol, 80% tempranillo, 20% mazuelo, aged 15 months in half US and French oak. Meaty, plummy, wood and spices, medium finish (not as pronounced as Reserva levels, of course). * Australia: Woolpunda Red Block Shiraz 2000, +627216, $9.95 General: from the Riverland Murray Mallee region, 13.5% alcohol, full berryish flavours, fresh and plush, with soft tannins, ready now. Sip. * Australia: [Yellow Tail] Shiraz 2001, +624544, $11.25 General: some anise and spices, cassis tones, easy quaffable red, drinkable. Patio party wine. * Bulgaria: Chateau Aida Merlot Reserve 1999, +504142, $6.95 General: 12%, lightly merlot in its plumminess, a choice for a house wine. * Ontario: Peller Estates Heritage Series Baco Noir 2002, +582841, $9.95 General: extended skin contact leads to deep colours and extract, but medium body with plums and black fruits, for easy consumption or less-challenging foods. * Ontario: Peller Estates Heritage Series Cabernet Franc 2002, +582825, $10.95 General: full malolactic fermentation and some oak aging to soften the tannins. Black fruit plus some strawberries and herbs on the nose. Best with a main course. * Ontario: Peller Estates Heritage Series Gamay Noir 2002, +342816, $10.75 General: lightly developed as in beaujolais territory, soft, red fruit driven (some say cranberries, a bit tartish), serve as a first-course red. * Ontario: Hillebrand Trius Red 2001, +303800, $19.95 General: blend of cabernet sauvignon (50%) with cabernet franc (47%) and merlot. Individually aged in half French and US oak for one year (25% new), full malolactic fermentation. Final cuvee is selected and blended. Lots of toasty aromas (chocolate, coffee, cedar) plus black fruit and smoke. Serve with heavy meats. * Ontario: Hillebrand Trius Grand Red 2000, +981050, $52 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: 50% cabernet sauvignon, 34% merlot, 16% cabernet franc, sourced from a variety of sites in Niagara. One thousand barrels were sampled, and the top 34 selected. Extensive winemaking techniques followed, too much to list here. Right now the wine is too youthful, much like a top Bordeaux blend. I was in on the early preparations for blending skills. You must save it, maybe 10 - 15 years, which is what the winemaker wanted. But will he be around in 2015 to be accountable? Tune in later... * Ontario: Hillebrand Collector's Choice Cabernet 2001, +982439, $15.95 Winery/Vineyards Estate Wines stores: two-thirds franc and one-third sauvignon are aged a year in half French and half US oak. Red fruits dominate (cherries, strawberries) plus spices and some herbs, medium-bodied. First-course red. * California: Delicato Merlot 2001, +520148, $11.80 General: mostly merlot but with some depth added, through petite sirah and alicante bouchet. Still plummy and juicy, but with more spine than before. Main course wine. * California: Delicato Shiraz 2002, +585059, $11.95 General: at 76% syrah, this wine barely makes its name on the label. Other grapes include petite sirah, tempranillo, alicante bouchet, cabernet sauvignon and "other reds". More like a Cotes du Rhone, at 13.8% alcohol. Plums, spices, vanilla. * Hungary: Egervin Egri Bikaver 2000, Litre +234690 $8.25, 750mL +7203 $6.45 General: recast and reformulated, the old guy is back, with cabernet, merlot and kekfrankos grape varieties. Now mainly fresh and fruity, suitable for patio sipper. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JUNE, 2003 ====================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at TUESDAY, JUNE 3, 2003 -- Prevedello and Mathews International held a formal tasting of Rosabrook Estate Winery (Margaret River, Western Australia), at noon, at the LCBO Summerhill store in the Events Kitchen. The seminar was led by Michael Hill, partner in charge of sales and marketing, and it was followed by a buffet lunch. Rosabrook Estate has been purchased by new owners and is now in a revival mode, with new winemaking techniques since 2001…Here are some notes, along with availability: * Rosabrook Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2002: 60% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% of each done under French wood, separately, and then blended. Grassy nose, good full fruit flavour, longish length, grapefruit, soft finish. Stelvin closure. * Rosabrook Chardonnay 2002 (Vintages, Winter 2004, 200 cases, $23.70 est): Stelvin closure. Actually, 85% chardonnay (the minimum for having the name of the grape on the label), rest is sauvignon blanc, marsanne, Semillon. 13.7% alcohol, 75% barrel fermented and full malo-lactic fermentation. Fruity aromatics on nose, very toasty on palate from new oak, very good crisp length, needs food. * Rosabrook Pioneers Chardonnay 2002 Estate Reserve: again, Stelvin closure, caramel nose, light body, elegant burgundian complexity, length okay but this wine seems more for sipping than for food. May open up later, but can you wait? * Rosabrook Shiraz 2001 (Vintages, +970509, $29.95): 13.5% alcohol, new and used French and US oak. Hard edge to nose, large syrah character but modest restrained palate, good finish, needs time to open up for food. * Rosabrook Cabernet Merlot 2002 (coming soon to Vintages): Stelvin closure, 13% alcohol, 9 motnhs in 75% French oak and rest US oak. Fruity nose, berries and herbs. Good fat wood integration on palate. Some tightness on the finish. * Rosabrook Cabernet Merlot 1999 (Vintages, Swept 6, +905901, $29.95): 18 months in French and US oak, ripe, heavy and dense. 70% cabernet sauvignon. 13.8% alcohol. * Rosabrook Cabernets 2001 Estate Reserve (Classics Catalogue, Spring 2003, +949370, $45): 15% alcohol! Uses same oak as in Bordeaux, blend is Bordeaux (50% cabernet sauvignon, 36% cabernet franc, 14% merlot). Heavily spiced, especially with cloves. One to sip as well as drink with food. Needs cellaring. Prevedello and Mathews are at 416-979-9153 or talktous@pmwine.com TUESDAY, JUNE 10, 2003 -- The Vine Robert Groh Agency put on a portfolio tasting at YYZ. In addition to representing a range of Italian wineries such as Angelo Nicolis, Tenuta Mosole, Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, Tomas & Giesen plus the Tuscan firms of Le Fonti di Conrad Schnitt, La Torraccia di Presura, Pacina di Giovanna Tiezzi, Le Macioche and Livernano Radda, Robert has a far reaching portfolio of New World wines. From Australia, there is Abbey Rock. From California, there are Crane Canyon, Groth, Justin, McManis, Murphy-Goode, Newton, Philip Togni, Plumpjack, Vino Noceto, Von Strasser, Whitehall Lane. And from Niagara, he reps Cave Spring Cellars on a limited basis in Toronto… Here are some notes about the wines I enjoyed, accompanied by a wide range of superb appetizers from YYZ (all price here are retail): * Nicolis & Figli Valpolicella Classico Superiore "Seccal" 2000, $25.45: made by the ripasso method (Amarone lees), 13% alcohol, a bit on the the light side but very fruity. * Tenuta Mosole Lison Pramaggiore Merlot 2001, $17.05: light but zesty, with a long finish. * Tenuta Cocci Grifoni (Marche) "Le Torri" Rosso Piceno Superiore $15.85: long, full Italianate flavours, a delight at this price point. * Tomas & Giesen Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2000, $34: 13.5% alcohol, with intense, chunky, cellerable dark flavours, extremely good quality, but a tough sell for this grape variety at this price level. * La Torraccia di Presura Lucciolaio 1997 IGT Rosso, $58.15: a commendable SuperTuscan, made from sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon grapes. Deep and delicious, a favourite of the tasting, and a decent price for this kind of wine. * Pacina di Giovanna Tiezzi La Malena 2000 IGT Rosso, $40.80: another new and exciting wine, this time made from syrah and sangiovese, about 50 – 50, with 13.5% alcohol. A great blend, the two grape varieties support each other very well. * Livernano Radda in Chianti Anima 2001, $91.75: a great wine to taste, difficult to purchase unless you have money. Anima is 14% alcohol, and it is ablend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and gewürztraminer. It is very intense and aromatic, but I sense that it is still developing. One to sip, to slowly consume while eating, but open it with time to breathe. * Groth Merlot 2000, $55.85: ripe fruit, 14% alcohol, long engaging finish. * Groth Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, $96.85: 14.3%, still sharp and tannic on the finish, needs cellaring. * Justin Sauvignon Blanc Edna Valley 2001, $30.70: largely unfiltered, 15.1% alcohol!, off–dry character, exceptional. * Justin Isosceles 2000, $97.20: a drink of choice by many, actually good value for a wine at this price level, a Bordeaux-blend with red fruit showing. * Murphy-Goode Fume Blanc Sonoma 2001, $20.85: intense, some smoke in the finish. * Newton Claret 2000, $40.50: a Bordeaux blend, 14% alcohol, full, ripe and ready for restaurant diners now. Affordable. * Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Unfiltered 2000, $85.70: still needs cellaring time, but potential is there, * Von Strasser “Freestone” Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $19.80 for half-bottle 375mL: this is a second label for Von Strasser, who make estate bottled cabs selling for over 100 dollars. It is fresh, with both red and black fruits, expressive of the cabernet variety, and a good deal for restaurants who need to list half-bottles. * Whitehall Lane Merlot 2000 Napa, $50.65: shows intense fruit, some herbs, with depth and power. Softer finish. * Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $74.50: more intense flavours, with more wood showing, but also tannic. Needs cellaring. Rob Groh is available at 416-693-7994 or thevine@robgroh.com SATURDAY, JUNE 14, 2003 -- The Ontario Wine Society sponsored an all day bus trip to the wineries of Prince Edward County, with an initial pit stop at Willow Springs winery in Stouffville. To quote from the OWS flyer “Prince Edward County has the potential to be a producer of spectacular wines. South of Belleville, the County is an isthmus that reaches 40 kilometres into Lake Ontario and possesses the key ingredients to ripen cool climate vitis vinifera varieties – 160 frost free days, a moderate growing climate and, in many pockets, well-drained clay-loam limestone laced soils similar to those of Burgundy.” There is a strong belief that marginal climate and promising soils are going to deliver terroir-based wines. The industry believes so much in terroir that it has launched an appellation system. There is only one key ingredient missing, to see if the predictions are true: TIME. Every year will count, and while everybody wishes sooner rather than later, there is no telling when the “good times will roll”. Right now, PEC has to fight off image problems, colder winters than expected, and a broad decline in US-tourism (PEC is accessible to upstate New York, but not like Niagara)…I remember tasting PEC wines a few years back, and certainly County Cider…So it will be interesting to see what the future holds. So this was mainly what is known in the business as a “fam” tour (familiarization). The bus was full (I think there were only two empty seats), and several “eastern Ontario” members of the OWS joined us by car. So we were packed, and excited by the onboard entertainment of food and libations (Strewn, Pillitteri, Crown Bench, Peller Estates, Colio). The first stop was the Willow Springs Winery in Stouffville, a family-run operation in York Region. They have 11 acres onsite, with eight different varieties of grapes. They are up and coming, with some VQA wines. They began operations as an apple winery. They still have a range of apple wines available, about nine different labels, at $5.95 each, about 10% alcohol. I bought the driest, Empire 1999 and Golden Delicious Barrel Fermented 1999, and served them in July to company with smoked salmon and a goat cheese terrine salad. They were superb, with good pale colours. The Empire was still fresh and fruity, showing some tannic and apple bite from the peel that Empire is known for. The Golden Delicious showed why this apple is to be preferred to the insipid Red Delicious. Michael Traynor is the current winemaker, since November 2000, and he is also the vineyard manager for Huff Estates in Prince Edward County (a-ha! the PEC connection)…The complimentary tasting bar featured Geisenheim (a pleasant white, an off-dry Riesling clone, about $9), and Chardonnay 2001 Barrel Fermented ($14.95) and stored for 14 months in barrel. Of the reds, the Cabernet/Merlot 2000 ($14.95) easily stood out. They make a VQA Riesling and a VQA Cabernet Sauvignon from Niagara-on-the-Lake purchased fruit. For details or a tour, call the winery at 905-642-9463 or , and do pick up a couple cases of the apple wine while it is still available… Back on the bus for the long drive down 401. We came in on Hwy 33, and Ken Burford, our genial tour guide (he owns a vineyard in PEC), handed out a map so we could see where all the vineyards were located. From less than 20 acres under wine and one winery in 1999 (my last visit), PEC has grown to more than 400 planted acres in 2002, with about 100 more a year through 2010 (1000 acres by then). By 2005, eight wineriesw expect to be open – including the Black Prince Winery, owned by the Opimian Society. Currently, the Prince Edward County Winegrowers Association has 32 members. And land is still available at a decent price. And, as usual for tours, we were running late by the time we arrived at Waupoos Estates Winery for a tasting, tour and lunch. This 7500 case winery, which has been open since June 2001, uses gravity tanks. It is now also a member of VQA, and will soon be releasing VQA wines. We tasted riesling, vidal, de chaunac, pinot gris, and pinot noir, plus an unoaked chardonnay from 2002. Ed Neuser, the owner, led the tasting. The winery also makes geisenheim, gamay, seyval blanc, cabernet franc, st.laurent, and vidal icewine (which always sells out). Lunch was in the vineyard, in a gazebo-terrace. With perfect summery weather at last. Spring peas soup was superb, with its crème fraiche and pea sprouts. The salmon filet was accompanied by jasmine rice and veggies. Baco noir and some 2001 Chardonnay (oaked) came with the meal. I was most impressed with both chardonnays. More details at www.waupooswinery.com Falling still further behind, we rushed over to the County Cider Company, for a tasting of newly emerging geisenheim and gamay noir, both youthful. Grant Howes, the owner, led the tasting. We also tasted a range of ciders, including the Waupoos Premium Cider (made from late harvested and European cider apples grown in their own vineyard) and their County 2000 Brut sparkling hard cider, made by the champagne method. More details at www.countycider.com Both wineries were at the eastern end of PEC, so were actually on our way home we turned around to get to Peddlesden Wines, just west of Wellington. Mike Peddlesden, the owner, led the tasting of a VQA Riesling 2002 and a VQA Pinot Gris 2002, which sellout quickly. Both were refreshing on a hottish day. Mike also served us some canapés, which were especially welcomed. More details at www.peddlesden.ca All three – Waupoos, County Cider, and Peddlesden – are presenting themselves as destination places, with wine boutiques and dining areas, plus events for fun and family. Good places to visit, and watch the vines grow over the years. By now we were about an hour and a half late, so we took to the open road on 401. Some slept, some drank, some read – but everybody had fun… WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18, 2003 – Pinots – Worlds Apart was the them of the local, Toronto Pinot Camp for wine writers, sponsored by the Oregon Wine Advisory Board. Thomas Bachelder, once a wine writer for Wine Tidings and now a winemaker with a passion for Pinot Noir (and working for Boisset-Vincor at Clos Jordan in Niagara), led us through a tasting of predominantly Oregon pinot noirs – with ringers from California, Chile, Ontario and (of course) France…The stress was on the fact that pinot noirs are good value when you consider the yields, and the yields are the same whether the wine is regular pinot noir or single vineyards. It was held at Reds, with a luncheon following so that we could enjoy the wines with food. Here are some notes (the wines were divided into two flights, one at $37 or less, the other at $47 or more, and both tasted blind): * Adelsheim Pinot Noir 2000, $36.95 (duChase/Barrique): this was my first pick in the first flight. It had an MVC nose, ripe fruit, jammy, broad on palate after opening up, high alcohol and lots of extract. One to sip, and not really fitting into a burgundian profile. * Firesteed Pinot Noir 2001, $19.95 (Select): low nose, plae, good acid on the finish, raisins, dried fruit. * Firesteed Pinot Noir 2000 Willamette, $29.99 (Select): jammy full nose, red fruit shines throug, good length, needs food. * Holloran “Stafford Hill” Pinot Noir 2001, $29.95 (Atlas): this is the second label for Holloran. This wine had good length and development, extract. * LaCrema Pinot Noir 2001 Sonoma California, $32.95 (Authentic): succulent fruit and mushrooms on the nose, cherries, good length, needs food. Spices on softer finish suggest California. * Southbrook Pinot Noir 2000 Lailey Vineyard Ontario, $24.95 (Lifford):deep nose, some depth to the palate, long, long finish, my second choice of the first flight. * Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir 2001 Rapel Chile, $17.95 (Maxxium): chocolate tones, strong olives on the nose, high extract, caramel from wood, roundness and fruit on palate. Not particularly pinotish but an engaging wine. Certainly not France, Ontario, Australia, South Africa, or California/Oregon…. * Westrey Pinot Noir 2001 Willamette, $31 (duChasse/Barrique): low nose, average body, sweet on palate, modest finish. * King Estate Pinot Noir 2000 Signature, $29.95 (Authentic): engaging nose which later collapsed, correct palate, good length, smooth, a bit commercial. * Amity “Schouten” Pinot Noir 2000 Willamette, $47.50 (duChasse/Barrique): sweet nose, slightly acetic, dry palate, long finish with some chocolate. * Holloran “Le Pavillon” Pinot Noir 1999, $49.95 (Wineworld): my favourite wine of the second flight, with a toasty nose, extract, thick pinot noir flavours (red fruit), long finish for food. * Daniel Rion Nuits St-Georges “Les Grandes Vignes” 1er cru 2000, $55.90 (Tastevins Selections): older “barrel” nose usually associated with burgundy (bingo!), fruit on the midpalate, good acid finish. * Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir Carneros 2000, $57.95 (Maxxium):nose needs time to open up, sweet palate, modest length, sip. DSpoted as California. * St.Innocent “Freedom Hill” Pinot Noir 2000 Willamette, $56 (duchesse/Barrique): shy nose, good fruit on palate, extra length on the finish, with some food acids. * Louis Jadot Savigny-les-Beaune Les Jarron 1er cru, $48.29 (Lifford): closed palate, with a soupy/vegetative nose, sharp and tannic finish. THURSDAY, JUNE 19, 2003 – Pernod Ricard Canada hosted a tasting of wines from Wyndham Estates, at the Indian Motorcycle Café and Lounge, lunchtime. It was led by winemaker Brett McKinnon, who has been to Canada so many times that he is now an honourary citizen…Wyndham Estates marketing strategy for its entry level wines is to call its wines “bins”, with three repeated numbers for each. Here they are in numerical order – * Wyndham Estate Bin 111 Verdelho, not sold in Canada * Wyndham Estate Bin 222 Chardonnay 2002, $11.75 General List: tropical fruit, some toasty wood, modest finish. Six months oak for 30% of final blend. Sipper. * Wyndham Estate Bin 333 Pinot Noir 2001, $13.60 General List: ripe fruit, showing some chocolate, alcoholic nose, mid-palate a bit thin, needs food to explore the cherry fruit. * Wyndham Estate Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $14.60 General List: sweet nose, long, soft and fruity palate, long finish, best with food. * Wyndham Estate Bin 555 Shiraz 2001, $14.60 General List: excellent nose, voluptuous and succulent, smooth on palate, good length to the finish. * Wyndham Estate Bin 666 [in development] * Wyndham Estate Bin 777 Semillon 2002, $10.90 General List: light, crisp fruit, floral, good length, modest and needs food. Stelvin closure for Tesco in UK, and for sale throughout Oz. * Wyndham Estate Bin 888 Cabernet Merlot 2000 – not yet available in Ontario. * Wyndham Estate Bin 999 Merlot 2001, $14.45 General List: mute nose, plumy fruit, minty MVC, some finish that had no cooked flavours, yet freshly “jammy” A cheese plate came around to play off these wines, mostly soft cheese plus some blue…Then came the heavies of the Wyndham wine world, to wit: * Wyndham Estate Show Reserve Chardonnay 2001, about $20: discreet wood tones, needs time to evolve and to open, understated burgundian style but fruity. Sip or food. * Wyndham Estate Show Reserve Cabernet Merlot 1997, about $23: deep tropical nose, fully fruited palate, full, long length, delicious. Held back at winery for release. * Wyndham Estate Show Reserve Shiraz 1997 Hunter Valley, about $30: deep rusticity, Rhone-like wine, lots of flavour on the palate, good length. Oxidative quality. Few oak tones (aged in large used oak). Held back at the winery for release. * There is also a Show Reserve Semillon 1997, Old Hunter Valley style, but there are no plans to bring it to Ontario. With these final wines we had a garlic shrimp and scallop skewer, followed by a veal Bolognese on penne, and a superb lime cheesecake. For more details about these Wyndham Estate wines, contact Pernod Ricard at 905-712-0675; check out www.pernod-ricard.com SAMPLES TASTED IN JUNE 2003, FROM A WIDE RANGE OF SOURCES ========================================================= * Deinhard Classic Riesling 2001 (+60004, $10.95 General List): 12% alcohol and with all the right notes of lemons, apples, peaches, and even a nicely dry finish for food. From the Rheinhessen. * Deinhard Classic Pinot Blanc 2002 (+271072, $10.95 General List): 12.5% alcohol, medium taste and finish, but with a slightly bitter character that is engaging. Great with food. From Pfalz. * Carmen Chardonnay 2002 (+235663, $9.95 General List): extremely fruity and voluptuous tropicality at this price level, partial barrel fermentation gives it added complexity on the finish. * Andre Millot Chardonnay 2001 Vin de Pays d'Oc (+565978, $12.50 for 1.5L magnum on General List): peaches and apples from the South of France, stainless steel technology, partial malolactic fermentation. Good value for summer. * Caves Velhas Alpendre Palmela DOC 2001 Portugal (+637488, $8.45 General List) bright and crisp finish, 12.5% alcohol, nice price for breezy summer drinking. Sip or food. * Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Altenbourg 2000 (+716696, $33 Classics Catalogue): another prime value from Alsace, 14% alcohol, off-dry in mouthfeel, depth of the grape shows, lovely light bitterness on the finish. * Fortant de France Chardonnay 2002 Vin du Pays d'Oc (+256560 750mL $9.45, +462010 1.5L $17.45 General List): an everyday house wine, stainless steel freshness, also night picked clusters. Extremely fruity with crisp lemony finish. Food wine. * Fortant de France White Merlot 2002 Vin du Pays d'Oc (+570663, $9.95 General List): strawberry lightness, off-dry, sociable quaffer while playing boules. Food? Try salads... * Chateau Saint-Thibeaud Bordeaux Clairet 2002 (+589366, $9.95 General List): a great little summer wine, a sortof rose plus (hence the "clairet"), more like an Alsatian pinot noir in colour. 60% cabernet sauvignon, rest split between cabernet franc and merlot. Lightly chill, and you will be rewarded. * Heathfield Ridge Patrick Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 South Australia (+714931, $39 Classics): excellent length, full voluptuousness on the palate, yummy all round and decent price. * Anselmi Realda 1999 Veneto (+715557, $33 Classics): a cabernet sauvignon IGT, 13.9% alcohol, ripe and mouthfilling, good cabernet hit, and affordable. * Etchart Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Cafayate Argentina (+362186, $10.95 General List): 13.8% alcohol, lots of fruit to the depth, as well as some mint and rusticness. * Deinhard Dornfelder/Pinot Noir 2001 (+630533, $10.95 General List): with 11.5% alcohol and a light chilling, this could be an ideal summer red wine for the BBQ. Red fruit (including cherries), mouth-filling finish. From Rheinhessen. * Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 (+358309, $15.95 General List): French and US oak for 10 months contribute stuffing to the bouquet, with some mint notes from Maipo Valley. 14% alcohol, and ready soon... * Andre Millot Merlot 2001 Vin de Pays d'Oc (+565960, $12.50 for 1.5L magnum on General List): very fleshy red fruits in a soft, lingering style, stainless steel tanks and partial malolactic fermentation. Good value for summer, * Marcus James Malbec 1999 Argentina (+518431, $7.95 General List): soft fruit from this signature grape of Argentina, excellent price for summer quaffing. * Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Margaret River (+452524, $39 Classics Catalogue): another stupendous Oz delight, from Western Australia, firm grip will need some time, but fruit is melded already. * De Toren Fusion V 2000 South Africa (+709428, $35 Classics Catalogue): at this pricepoint, an absolute bargain. 60% cabernet sdauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 13% malbec, 13% merlot, 4% petit verdot -- classic Bordeaux blending. High extract, dryish tannic finish, but lots of substance and fruit, in an elegant Euro-style. * Fortant de France Syrah 2002 (+271510, $9.45 General List): destemming and some carbonic maceration and malolactic fermentation preserves all the fruit. Red fruit and some anise tones on both aroma and palate, finishes soft, useful for this summer's BBQ. * Librandi Ciro Classico 1999 Italy (+079863, $ 8.80 General List): from the underutilized gaglioppo grape, a standby in the summer BBQ wine sweepstakes. Good value for a rustic wine that's better than many montepulcianos out there. The original Southern Italian wine to have impact in Ontario... 13% alcohol gives it some heat and a kick. * Corvo Duca di Salaparuta 2000 Sicily (+034439, $10.75 General List): from the nero d'avola grape, aged in oak one year, 12.8% alcohol. Good quality in a wine with stuffing that will stand up to heavier BBQs (ribs?). * Cantine Leonardo da Vinci Sangiovese di Toscana 2001 IGT ($10.45, Licensee Only program, from Ruby Wines and Spirits 905-989-0470 or light structure, uncomplicated, beautiful label, lots of red fruit for summer (especially cherries), best with openers such as antipasto and/or pasta. For lighter BBQs. * Cantine Leonardo da Vinci Chianti 2002 DOCG ($11.95, Licensee Only program, from Ruby Wines and Spirits 905-989-0470 or ): 12.5% alcohol, Wine Magazine called the 2001 vintage "Great value Red Wine of the Year". Charming red fruit, a bit soft, but certainly restaurant ready now. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MAY, 2003 ====================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2003 -- The beginning of an awesomely heavy month..It all starts with the annual Austrian Wine Tasting. This year's event is at the Fairmont Royal York, an expansion from previous space at the National Club...The day began with a tutored tasting for trade, industry and media, about an hour and a half in the early afternoon. The venue was the Upper Canada Room, and the seminar was conducted by Margaret Swaine. White wines form 77% of the total wine from the sixteen wine regions of Austria; Gruner Veltliner has 37% of the total. Twenty-one wines were served, beginning with a zesty Schlumberger Blanc de Blancs, a very pleasant sipper (Peter Mielzynski Agencies). The first flight had five representative Gruner Veltliners (excellent food wines), ranging from the lightly lemoned 2002 from Undhof Salomon (Lamprecht; $20.25) through the heavier, smokey 2001 from Brundlmayer (HHD Imports; $35). The next flight was a mixed bag of whites, with Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc (Wohlmuth, Elite 2001, Vergina Imports; $40 -- smokey, fume blanc in style), Traminer, and Pinot Gris (Neumeister, 2001, Conoval Importing; $30 -- vanilla and coconut, lots of body, high alcohol, quality sipper). Five reds, with Zweigelt, St.Laurent, and some blends, were followed by five sweeties, such as Pinot Blanc Beerenauslese 2001 (Sepp Moser, Lamprecht; $25) and Bouvier Trockenbeerenauslese 1999 (A.Fischer, D.Cojocaro; $30 for 250mL). After the seminar there was time to taste, on our own, more wines of the same varieties and wineries, such as the herby Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (Erzherzog Johann, D.Cojocaro) or the Lenz Moser Trockenbeerenauslese Prestige 2000 (H.H.D Imports). A lot of these wines were on display for the public tasting, later that night. The show's catalogue of over thirty wineries, some seeking agents in Ontario, was very well put together, nicely laid out, with all the essential data except prices. There were about 180 wines at the show; I could not get around to tasting most of them, since we only had an hour. Contact the agent direct for more details, or get a catalogue through the Austrian Trade Commission 416-967-3348, ext.18. FRIDAY, MAY 2, 2003 -- The Woodman Wines and Spirits company put on a trade tasting at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club (St.George St) with a full line of their California wines from Matanzas Creek. In addition, Stonestreet properties were also shown, another part of the Jess Jackson family. Here are some notes: * Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (+932715, Fall 2003 Classics, est$32): good grass component, long length follows a firm body, pretty good value. * Cambria Estate Chardonnay 2000 (+948307 V, $24.75): good wood tones, lovely flavour but lacks finishing concentration. * Cambria Katherine's Chardonnay 2001 (est$30, Consignment/PO): elegant, Burgundian in style, long long finish with mid-palate brightness. Lots more here for that extra five bucks... * Hartford Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2000 (est$30, Consignment/PO): lightish all round, but soft in tones. * Cambria Estate Pinot Noir 2000 (+943191 V, $24.80): burnt nose character, fairly elegant lifted body, food is important for the success of this wine. * Cambria Julia's Pinot Noir 2000 (est$40, Consignment/PO): packed with extract and jammy flavours, value even at this price level. * Hartford Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2000 (est$43, Consignment/PO): tending towards Burgundian elegance and lightness. * Matanzas Creek Merlot 2000 (+710224, Fall 2003 Classics, est$80): best wine here -- soft, fruity, engaging, long length. * Verite La Muse 2000 (est$175, Private Order): merlot blend, tight, could improve in fruit with cellaring. * Verite La Joie 2000 (est$175, but 1999 available in Summer Classics at $175, +736447): fruity and forthcoming, currently more enjoyable than La Muse. * Cardinale 1999 (+740175, Summer Classics, $199): currently very tannic and tight, fruit-shy. * Hartford Russian River Zinfandel 2000 (+957779, Summer Classics, $42): good zinfandel, with structure, berry flavours, and performance. * Stonestreet Chardonnay 2000 Sonoma ($33), evolving flavours, some elegance. * Stonestreet Merlot 1999 ($42), somewhat tight even at this stage * Stonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($54), still needs more time to show its fruit. * Atalon Merlot 1999 Napa ($47), ripish fruit, some opulence. * Atalon Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 Napa ($90), excellent price- point for this well-made, juicy, dense wine with structure, aging nicely. For more details, call Woodman Wines and Spirits, 416-767-5114. TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2003 -- Bill Hardy, great-great-grandson of Thomas Hardy (founder of Hardys Wines, Australia) hosted a reception at the Ontario Heritage Centre's Gallery Room. It was also a great opportunity to taste the range of Hardy wines in Canada, as well as the flagship wines: Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2001 (lemony aromas, toast and vanilla flavours, long finish, capable of aging); Eileen Hardy Shiraz 1998 ($94.95, +461368, black fruit and jammy, well-integrated oak); and Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 ($69.95, +464461, minty, berryish, long fruit flavours and cigar box). The mid-range wines are generating the most excitement, such names as the Tintara line. Tintara Shiraz 1999 (+575704, $22.95) was the bargain of the tasting with its deep dark dense black fruit, concentrated spices. Tintara Chardonnay 2001 has partial barrel fermentation and light tones. Tintara Cabernet Sauvignon shows immense varietal character and some Bordeaux character. A general all-round purchase would be the Bankside Shiraz 1998, now a Vintages Essential (+436022, $15.95), actually a lighter version of Tintara Shiraz, with more approachable fruit. Also to check out are the Hardy General List selections, such as the Stamps of Australia series or the Nottage Hill range at more modest prices. For details of availability, call Churchill Cellars at 416-368-5108 or TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2003 -- Sante, the Bloor-Yorkville Wine Festival, opened this year to acclaim. The first major function was the "Featured Country Tasting", which occurred twice. First it was at the ROM, with upscale wines and upscale food. Then it was on Thursday May 8, at the Liberty Grand, but with different French wines and different food, at a lesser admission fee, with the emphasis on "French cool" or "le cool"...I chose to go to ROM, since I am not a cool kinda guy...One of the sponsors for Sante was Balderson Cheese, and accordingly they had a monopoly on the cheese service. Too bad we didn't have access to many of the fine cheeses of France. Daniel et Daniel catered the event, with contributions from Cedima (Chocolatier de Paris Michel Cluizel, as well as a range of tapenades, jams, calissons and nougat) and Marche Transatlantique (mustards, gelee de vin, oils, vinegars, spices), and desserts from Euro Excellence. Hot dishes included foie gras, choucroute, roast beef, mushrooms, monkfish in red wine...Here are some notes on the wines (again, availability and prices were not always known): * through Philippe Dandurand 416-368-3344, Chateau d'Armailhac 2000 (excellent depth, Fall Classics at about $60), Pomerol Collection Baron Philippe 2000 (equally good, black fruits, only $33 on consignment). Also Chapoutier's Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2000 (Classics, $69: excellent price for a ton of syrah flavours), and the new Cotes de Rhone Coteaux de Tricastin La Ciboise 2001 (+133066 General in Spetember, $10.25, some barrel aging gives it a warm toast with flowers). * through Thompson Vintage Trade 905-634-2325, the excellent previously tasted Alsatian range from Vieil Armand, which included the stunning Gewurztraminer 2001 and the Tokay Pinot Gris 2001. * through H.H.D. Imports 519-884-7600, the only Champagne at Sante, featuring the biscuity Cuvee William Deutz 1996 ($125 plus matching box) and the Deutz Rose 1997 ($75). Plus Delas Frere's Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette 1999 (good quality, long length, bargain $30) * through Vinifera Wine Service 416-924-4004, Chateau Ronan 2000 (soft and fruity, approachable, $15) and the Chateau Ronan Cuvee Prestige 2000 (ripe merlot, good length, value for $25). * through Academy Brands 905-844-5040, the Chateau Fleur Chaigneau Vielles Vignes 2000 (Lalande de Pomerol), about 80% merlot, fine tasting for $31. * through Atlas Wine Merchants 905-564-6900, Chateau Citran 2000 Haut Medoc (full, firm, ready sooner rather than later, $40). * from Eurovintage 416-494-2881, Jeanjean's Clos Roques d'Aspes Faugeres 1999, a well-rounded fruited wine, good value at $15. * from Trilogy Wine Merchants 416-968-0758, Leon Beyer's Gewurztraminer 2000 (good lean flavours, a bitterish ending, $17) and his Muscat 2001 (full- flavoured succulence) * from Lacey's International 416-690-2557, Chateau Cruzeau Pessac Leognan 1999 (excellent red, brimming with red fruit flavours). * from Rubaiyat Wines and Spirits 416-462-1577, Chateau La Tour Carnet ($25 in Classics, a low-end surprise) and Tour du Tresor 2000, from the Anjou ($28.85 on consignment: warm, delicious, ready with that cabernet franc off-leafy herbal snap). * from Portfolio Wine and Spirits 416-488-4922, at the last booth, the Grand Cru chablis was gone by the time I got there...That's the reason I normally do white wines first, to catch them all..But this time I went by booths, not wines. But I did get the Pascal Bouchard Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy 2000, a steal at $34.95, with excellent body. Even the Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2000, from 65-year old vines, was an outright bargain at $23.95. WEDNESDAY, MAY 7, 2003 -- The Sante Trade Tasting happened at the Liberty Grand space, Exhibition Grounds. I tried to taste as many wines as I could, but fatigue was inevitable...There were many fine Ontario and French wines that I had had earlier in the month...Here are some notes about my favourite wines (as always, price and availability terms were varied): * from Philippe Dandurand 416-368-3344, Baron Philippe Collection Pauillac 1998 ($25) sees the re-introduction of regional bordeaux wines into Ontario. There is also a Pomerol. The soft and fruity Escudo Rojo 2001 comes from the Chilean estate. The Beringer Private Reserve Napa Chardonnay 1999 ($45.95, Vintages Essential) was a wonderful fruity concoction with a long finish. The M. Chapoutier Cornas 2000 was pretty good, with nice syrah character for a bargain $25 (private order). * from Diageo Canada 416-626-2000 there was a full-range of California's Beaulieu Vineyard, including the erstwhile Coastal Chardonnay 2001 ($16.95). Also some wines from Sterling, eg. North Coast Chardonnay 2001 ($26.70, oaky fruit showing on the finish), and the North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2002 ($19.95). * from Maxxium Canada 416-535-7899, Wolf Blass showed off its Green Label Shiraz 2001, good depth but needs cellaring. * from D.S.Sutherland 416-494-8690, the excellent Bowe Joubert Chardonnay Cuvee Emmerentia 2002 ($18) has had barrel fermentation and some aging in new US and French oak. My white wine of the show. * from Chateau des Charmes in Niagara 905-262-5548, an engaging Cabernet Merlot Estate 1999 (needs cellaring) and a ripe and fruity Chardonnay Paul Bosc Estate 1999 (ready now, but capable of additional aging). * from Vinifera Wine Service 416-924-4004, Chateau Pajzos 6 Puttonyos Aszu 1997 ($80, intensely concentrated), and Chateau Megyer 5 Puttonyos Aszu 1999 ($45 on consignment, more affordable). * from Academy Brands 905-844-5040, Chateau Clos de la Tour 2000 Reserve ($19.90 Vintages, showed good depth for price). * from EastDell Estates 905-563-9463, Riesling 2002 Niagara VQA was a quality off-dry sipper, good MVC. * from John Hanna & Sons 905-417-8037, J.Lohr's Estate Los Osos Merlot 2000 from California ($24.95, soft, fruity, upfront), as well as the Riverstone Chardonnay 2001 and Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, all at $24.95 * from Kacaba Vineyards 905-562-5625, their Chardonnay Sur-Lie 2000, with great open flavours, expressive of MVC. * from Lacey Internation 416-690-2557, Les Lions de La Louviere 1996 Pessac Leognan, a good smokey late harvest wine from semillon grapes, limited production. * from Varone Importing 416-489-9463, Michele Castellani's I Castei Valpolicella Classico Ripasso 1997, with its intense flavours, nearly amarone levels. * from Maxxium 416-535-7899, Robert Mondavi's Napa Fume Blanc 2001, which now has less fume and more blanc (=fresh). His Chardonnay Napa 2000 was a bit on the light but elegant side. * from H.H.D. Imports 519-884-7600, Delas Freres Crozes Hermitage Les Launes 2000, with great syrah character. * from Southcorp Wines Canada 416-504-3830, Rosemount Estate showed its Show Reserve Chardonnay 2001 (with light oak and body), its Show Reserve Shiraz 2000 McLaren Vale (good length, MVC for shiraz), and its Roxburgh Chardonnay 1999 (over the top for fruit and oak, integrated now). * from Cojocaru, 905-825-2079, William Cole vineyards in Chile, decent flavours at decent prices for Sauvignon Blanc Mirador 2002 ($11.95), Albamar Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2001 ($12.95 in October), and the Carmenere 2001 (light but fruity, $13.50 on consignment). Overall the quality-to-price ratio (QPR) of many wines was certainly higher than expected. David Lawrason and Steve Thurlow from Wine Access and Sante came up with six wines that reflected the best values at Sante. Here they are, with some notes on availability, etc. - Bowe Joubert Chardonnay 2002 (consignment from D.S.Sutherland, $18) - Colio Cabernet Franc Reserve 2000 (Vintages Essential, $19.95) - Corvo-Duca di Salaparuta Rosso 2000 (General List, $10.75) - Delas Freres Crozes Hermitage Les Launes 2000 (Vintages, under $20) - Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (General LIst, $17.95) - Leon Beyer Tokay Pinot Gris 2001 (General List, $14.95) (two other wines were rated high in this category, but they were not available in Ontario) SATURDAY, MAY 10, 2003 -- A highlight of Sante has always been the Education Day Seminars, a necessary component in any wine show lasting a week...But every year it gets harder to choose which ones to attend, since there are now few duplications in offerings. I chose the "Chardonnays of the World" and "Effects of Terroir and Variety"... "Chardonnays of the World" began at 1 PM at the Park Hyatt, at an affordable $25. Seven chardonnays were tasted, and each was commented on by an agent or a winemaker. Four were from Ontario, two from the US, and one from South Africa. If this were a competition, I'd rank Bowe Joubert Chardonnay 2001 tops ($18 or so from D.S.Sutherland: light nose, some anise, more taste than body, new oak storage, but definitely Euro style) in terms of value, followed by Berenger Chateau St.Jean Sonoma Chardonnay 2001 ($25 on consignment: mouthfilling, coats palate, good balance of wood-fruit-acid, sip or food), also good value. Stoney Ridge Chardonnay Old Vines 1997 Lenko Vineyards ($60 at winery: light nose, good balance, hardly aged at all, body was magnificent, long length, needs food) was a highlight, but expensive. Other wines here included Cilento Chardonnay Reserve 1999, E & J Gallo Chardonnay Estate 1998, Konzelmann Chardonnay Grand Reserve 2000, and Lakeview Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2000. All were fine wines, at different price levels -- and, of course, they were all made differently... "Effects of Terroir and Variety" began at 4 PM, also at an affordable $25. Eight wines were tasted, and each was commented on by an agent or a winemaker. Three whites and five reds, diverse varieties, with four from France, and one each from Chile, US, Ontario, and Italy. If this were a competition, I'd rank the Pascal Bouchard Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2000 Reserve at the head ($35 on consignment from Portfolio: old vines, typical chablis nose, fullish flavours with some perfume, a fat wine with a long, long length which needs food), followed by the Calama Merlot 2001 Casablanca Valley from Chile ($9.50 General List: chocolate, berries, impressive fruit forward palate, longish and decent finish. Third was the Ginestet Chateau Citran 2000 Haut Medoc ($35: reticent nose, a cellar keeper, merlot/cab.sauvingon blend shows, tannins on the palate, but a long finish). Other wines here included Zonin Gambellara Il Giangio 2001 (white), E & J Gallo Chardonnay Two Rock 2000, Baron Philippe de Rothschild Baron'arques (Pays D'Oc), Dourthe Freres Chateau Clos de la Tour 2001, and Kacaba Meritage 2000. On balance, the seminar only worked in comparing the red Bordeaux blends, for here we could plainly see the differences and similarities... TUESDAY, MAY 13, 2003 -- Casa Lapostolle held a pre-release tasting of some six wines that will be introduced to the Ontario market. The emphasis was on the Reserve lines, but some new Tanao and Clos Apalta were added to the grouping. Charles Jewett's Trilogy Wine Merchants (416-968-0758) are the company's new agents for their Chilean wines; Soho Metropolitan Hotel on Wellington Street was the venue (and site of the post-tasting buffet lunch). Casa Lapostolle, founded in 1994, is owned by the Marnier-Lapostolle family, in Chile's Colchagua and Rapel areas. Michel Rolland is the flying winemaker-consultant. So this is a combination of French expertise and Chilean terroir. This gave everything a mid-Atlantic feel. Here are some notes: * Chardonnay 2001 Casablanca, +396986 Vintages, $14.50: light, golden, elegance 25% BF and then this portion was put under Fr oak for 9 months. Deep aromatics of tropicality, good balance, but needs food. * Merlot 2002 Rapel Valley, +405712 Vintages, $15.95: plummy fruit, developing well, good long length, smooth balance, one to sip rather than food. 89% of wine was aged 7 months in various oaks. * Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Rapel Valley, upcoming Vintages, $15.95: hot, rustic nose, tannins on finish, a bit fruit-shy at this point, long length which needs food. 2/3 of wine aged a year in oak, 1/3 aged 4 months in oak. * Tanao Blanc 2001, about $20: zesty, like Loire nose, with 25% in BF and all aged in French oak for three months. Long tasty finish, food wine. Blend of 40% chardonnay, 40% semillon, 20% sauvignon blanc. The chardonnay portion tastes like it came from younger vines, principally from the Apalta vineyards. Grapes were sourced from three sites in Rapel and Casblanca. * Tanao 2000, about $20: rich chocolate tones and aromatics, good long length, smooth balance, more a sipper. From the Rapel, 20% from Apalta vineyard (all carmenere). Rest of blend is 44% cabernet sauvignon and 36% merlot, a sort of baby Apalta (Apaltalino? Apaltette?) -- but at less than a third the price. * Clos Apalta 2000, upcoming Classics. 1999 currently +723676 Classics, $75: 2/3 merlot-carmenere blend, with one-third cabernet sauvignon, from diverse sites in Colchagua and Rapel Valleys, 60 yrar old vines, aged 21 months in new French oak barrels. Very Euro-style, expressive of mocha and coffee, vanilla and black fruits. THURSDAY, MAY 15, 2003 -- Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates held an interesting wine tasting, a "Brown Bag" Blind Tasting at the Yonge and Summerhill LCBO. It was in the Events Kitchen, mid-day, followed by a light lunch. Thirty-two wines were shown, from wineries in California, Chile, Argentina, Australia, and Italy. The wines were bagged in flights by varietals...We were all invited, for a door prize, to guess just the COUNTRY of each wine. Only a few wine writers took the challenge -- it was ultimately pathetic. High score went to David Lawrason at 18 (out of 32). Next were Tony Aspler and myself (both 14). The only wine which stood out, as in recognition of country, was the Italian Arguzzio Super Tuscan 1998 (+49.95, +907329 Fall Classics Catalogue: deep engaging nose, superripe, but Euro-style in finish). Anyone who couldn't spot it should turn in his/her palate. I got the various countries for Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignon, since these are my favourite grapes. I only got one merlot of five. But enough of me...Here are some notes on the best wines of the tasting, according to a 14/32 expert (me): * from the Chardonnays, I enjoyed Yangara Park Chardonnay 2001 (Australia, $15.55, +623608, Aug. release: fragrant nose, solid flavour, long length, sip or food; Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve Chardonnay 2000 (+369686, $24.75, Vintages Essentials: good hit of oak, getting integrated with lots of flavour and length, quality sipper; La Crema Russian River Chardonnay 2001 ($44.50, +906412, Fall Classics Catalogue: modest nose, integration of wood-fruit, good toast and vanilla on finish. * from the Pinot Noirs, I enjoyed La Crema Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2001 ($68.10, but not available: deep NA nose, quality MVC, broad flavours on palate, almost smooth finish suggests sipping rather than food. * from the Merlots, I enjoyed Calina Merlot 2001 Chile ($16.85, +950998, November: dark colour, deep plummy aromas, fleshy and fruity, finishes dry); Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve Merlot ($30.50, but not available: mint aromas, American-style on palate, great body and extract, long herbish finish) * from the Syrahs, I enjoyed Yangarra Park McLaren Vale Shiraz 2001 ($31.35, +911974, Fall Classics Catalogue: reticent nose, low but pronounced oak and vanilla tones, ripe finish. great sipper) * from the Cabernet Sauvignons, I enjoyed Yangarra Park Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($31.35, +911966, Fall Classics Catalogue: chocolate tones with a soft finish, ready now, sip; Calina Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($16.85; +951079: easy and fragrant nose, approachable wine, sip, good price. Other wines in the show included all the Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve line, some of their Grand Reserves and Grand Estates, Calina from Chile, Tapiz from Argentina, and Yangarra Park from Australia. For more details about products, availability, and prices, check with Maria Allen TUESDAY, MAY 20, 2003 -- The Centre for Vine Affairs at Crush held an extremely informative seminar for Hungarian wines, led by John Szabo of Vinifera Wines. We tasted a number of new-style wines from Anonymus Wines, an agent in Budapest, Stockholm, and now Toronto. John began with an extensive talk on Hungarian wines, supplemented by notes handed out... * Thummerer Egri Bikaver Bull's Blood 1999, +871400, $20: full aromatic, a bit tannic on finish. * Vesztergombi Szekszardi Bikaver Bull's Blood 2000, +881797, $29.60: slightly bitterish, some cabernet family character, modest tannins at end. * Vesztergombi Szekszardi Merlot 2000, +881805, $23.75: low nose, good plummy fruit from the grape, finish suggests food. * Gere Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique 1997, +866889, $34.92: 18% merlot added, concentrated fruit from close cropping and canopy management. Delicious. * Bock Cuvee Barrique 1999, +866871, $50: chocolate tones and bordeaux blend, with cabernets and merlot, aged 18 months in oak, but still needs time to develop. A cellar keeper. The 1997 (+866863) is still available, for the same price. This is the finest red Hungarian table wine I have ever sampled. All the wines from Anonymus are by consignment; check with Frida Emri at John Szabo introduced some new-styled Tokay (Aszu and Late Harvest). But while he had handouts on Hungarian wines in general, he had no notes on his products. So beware my mispellings..Products and availability and prices can be had via * Chateau Megyer Tokaj Late Harvest Furmint 1999, $11-13 for half-bottle, low nose, but excellent finish. Great price, but needs fruit to accompany it. * Chateau Pajzos Late Harvest Harslevelu 2000, about $20 for a half-bottle, one of the hits of the afternoon, showing botrytis, good acid levels, refreshing, intense, slightly oxidized. * Chateau Pajzos Late Harvest Muskotaly, about $75 a half-bottle, showed excellent muscat intensity, but was priced beyond my means. * Chateau Megyer Tokaj Aszu 1998 3 puttonyos, $17 half, oxidative, not fresh style, meant for home market, but good dry intensity in the finish. * Chateau Megyer Tokaj Aszu 1999 4 puttonyos, $25 half, with muscat as base wine, three years in barrel. * Chateau Megyer Tokaj Aszu 1999 5 puttonyos, $50 half, extremely intense aromatics and finish. TUESDAY, MAY 20, 2003 -- Dinner tonight was with Jean-Michel Charland, an enologist with Les Vins Skalli who has moved over to the promotion side of the business. And this was great, for he was able to answer (and ask) questions with precise detail and accuracy -- on both the winemaking and the marketing side. It was an informal dinner, just myself and Jean-Michel and some accompanying agents. He ran through a full-range of Robert Skalli wines and Fortant de France wines. The emphasis was on the change in focus within these wines, whereby the Fortant series were the affordable entry levels while the Robert Skalli were more advanced, moving onto a reserve series at, of course, a higher price. For wines from the South of France, market position is everything, and it is highly competitive. About 80% of all the varietal wines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc) from all the companies making wine in Languedoc-Rousillon are exported. But hardly any of the indigenous varieties or blends are exported. This market is driven by the North American palate. Fifty hectares are owned by Skalli, for their reserve wines. 2500 hectares are under contract, producing (on average) about 80 hectolitres of juice per hectare for the Fortant line. The Robert Skalli line has 90 growers who are paid more, and they average just 60 hectolitres of juice per hectare. Sales in Ontario were down for the Skalli lines of local wines, such as Corbieres and Minervois (which are still selling in Quebec because Quebecois are more French than the French)...So they were delisted and replaced with the NA varietals. But something new: in a marketing change, the label no longer prominently states Pays d'Oc, but rather "South of France". So this new approach for the Robert Skalli wines may produce more sales, or -- at a minimum -- distance itself from the Fortant labels. The dinner was at Epic within the Fairmount Royal York; the meal was off the menu, such as ostrich carpaccio with tete de moine cheese, foie gras, rack of lamb, venison loin, pork medallion -- good food to show off the wines. Here are some notes for the seven wines: * Fortant de France Sauvignon Blanc 2002 +273235, $8.45 on General List (better value is the magnum, +415448, $15.45 retail): easy to drink, soft fruit, with herbaceous followthrough. No MF. Best value sauvignon blanc on the shelves, and a personal favourite. * Fortant de France Chardonnay 2002 +256560, $8.95 General List: low nose, some fruit showing, excellent length. Sip * Fortant de France Merlot 2002 +293969, $8.95 General List: fruit forward, best as a sipper, red fruit, medium length. * Robert Skalli Chardonnay 2000 "South of France" +592519, $12.95: fruit from northern Oc, aromatic plus wood tones, good body and good length, one-third oak aged (half of this in new and half in year-old wood) for six months, lees stirred. Excellent value for the dollar. * Robert Skalli Merlot 2001 "South of France" +571042, $12.95: deep plums, substantial, some tannins on mid-palate but smooth finish. Classy. * Robert Skalli Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 "South of France" +592501, $12.95: light nose but good grip, definitely Euro style, mouthfilling black fruit. * Robert Skalli Syrah 2001 "South of France" (coming to Ontario, $12.95): ripe blackberries, good syrah MVC hit, legs show glycerine and alcohol. My favourite of the evening... WEDNESDAY, MAY 21, 2003 -- FWP Trading is back with its Portuguese dinners, at bargain prices. This time it was Adega on Elm Street and the winery was the newly developing J.P.Vinhos from the Setubal and Alentejo regions. For more information about the winery or about the dinner series, contact FWP at 416-487-6153 or This particular dinner was only $45 a head (including tax and tip).. We began with a celebratory sparkler from J.P. Vinhos: Loridos, about $12, not available: champagne method), made from both white (fernao pires) and black (periquita) grapes. With the first course (rabbit confit and St.Jorge cheese) we had J.P. Branco ($8.16 consignment), a white of 60% muscatel, 40% fernao pires, and 100% aromatic: typical muscat nose, balanced fruit and acid, good length, but either sip or food). A second white here was the J.P. Catarina Chardonnay 2001 (value priced at $11.51 on consignment), about 75% chardonnay: some good new wood but gobs of natural fruit too, went well with the rabbit). Next up was a terrific roasted skate wing on sun-dried tomato risotto, served with two reds. The J.P. Tinto da Anfora 1999 ($12.90 on General List) is a good blend of some six grape varieties fresh and fruity with balanced tannins on finish. The J.P. Herdade Sta. Marta 1999 ($13.10 on consignment) showed some maraschino cherries on the nose, as well as balsam wood and sandalwood, spicy finish. Good wine with the skate. The third course offered a potato wrapped pork tenderloin. Here we had a glass of J.P. Ma Partilha Merlot 1999 ($26.34 on consignment: plummy, Euro style, red fruit strawbs) and a glass of J.P. Quinta da Bacalhoa Cabernet 2000 ($27.54 on consignment: a top of the line cabernet sauvignon, with 12% merlot added, in a distinctive North American style of voluputous fruit and spicy wood, great price for this kind of quality). The food at Adega is consistently high, and it continued through the dessert of passion fruit tart with creme caramel ice cream. FWP Trading also does food importing: ask for their catalogue of sea salts (including flowers) and various olive oils (including some organic oils at a decent price of $15 for half a litre, 0.1% ac.max) THURSDAY, MAY 22, 2003 -- Abcon International Wine Merchants had their first portfolio tasting at YYZ (Adelaide Street). The agency represents a wide range of Italian and New World Wines, plus some Bordeaux (such as Chateau Durfort Vivens and Chateau Croix de Reverdi). We had a chance to sample some 33 wines as well as refresh our palates with superb appetizers from YYZ. Here are some notes on the wines I particularly enjoyed: - from Cantine Salvalai Spa in the Veneto, Pinot Grigio 2002 ($13.95, fresh beginning and great finish, an interesting house wine), Amarone 1998 ($31.95, good price at this level for a well-fruited, nutty and spicy powerful amarone). - from Flaio, Primitivo 2001 ($12.95, small barrel aging in US oak, excellent with food, especially in the later courses) - from Laude, a Chianti Classico 2000 ($23.95, produced and bottled by E. Antinori, a bargain amongst full-bodied chiantis). - from Jordan (dba Jardin in exports) Winery in South Africa, Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($21.99, full, ripe and ready yet in Euro style, for restaurants now) - from Villiera Estate in Paarl South Africa, Down to Earth Red 2001 ($15.95, a blend of syrah, carignan, gamay and merlot that works for an intense wine, some mint showing, well-priced). - from Stanley Brothers in the Barossa Valley, John Hancock Shiraz ($27.75, full and firm, definitely needs food), Thoroughbred Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($25.75, a bit lean but food ready, fruit may show better after cellaring. Worth repaying if you kept it, good style.) - from De Bortoli in Australia, Shiraz Deen de Bortoli Riverina 2001 ($16.95, full, ripe and juicy, some wood spices, vanilla, and off-dry), Shiraz Willowglen Riverina 2001 ($13.95, had intense shiraz MVC which is what I look for at this price level, good value). Shiraz Yarra Valley ($33.95, several steps up in quality and price but worth it for the rich complexity fo depth and development. Matured almost two years in 70% US oak. - from Flynn Vineyards Willamette Oregon, Pinot Noir Cellar Select 2000 ($20.50, well on its way to a mid-weight quality and price driven pinot noir showing the best MVC for North America, ripe nose, astounding price) - from Michel Schlumberger Benchland Estate in Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($48.75, tannic fruit, extremely Bordeaux in style, black fruit and spices on the palate. I preferred it to Abcon's Bordeaux on display.) - from Bogle Vineyards in Clarksburg CA, Petite Syrah 2000 ($23.50, intense with a alightly bitter -- but engaging -- finish, dark fruit and smoke) For more details on the Abcon portfolio, call 416-766-8235 or MONDAY, MAY 26, 2003 -- Peter Mielzynski Agencies had a Wine Maker's Dinner at the Toronto Hunt. Coenie Snyman, senior winemaker of the Bergkelder (Distell), Cape Town South Africa, came to town and led us through a range of Fleur du Cap wines. [Note: I turned 60 today, and the only way I was going to go to this dinner was to bring my wife Ann along. My thanks to PMA for allowing me to do so] We all had a chance to engage the winemaker in conversation before the dinner, since we were allowed to sample all the wines beforehand. This was a fabulous situation, and I wish more dinners were like this one. So the writers all gravitated to tables with their samples, to cross-check and compare, and then to do the same with the dinner. The appetizers were foie gras, shrimp, smoked salmon, goat cheeses and figs. The courses at the dinner were seared tuna, consomme, apple granita, lobster and pork roll, and custard at dessert. There was plenty of opportunity to sample all the wines with all the foods. Coenie Snyman is the chief red winemaker for Bergkelder, but he has his hands on everything. We had five basic Fleur du Cap wines plus five of the "Unfiltered" series. Here are some of my notes: * Fleur du Cap Sauvignon Blanc 2002 - grassy, full blown, went well with most of the appetizers and the tuna. * Fleur du Cap Chardonnay 2002 +340406, $10.95 General List, and winner of Best Value White wine at Toronto Wine and Food Show this year - balance of fruit- wood-acid makes this a double threat sipper or food wine, very versatile with something for everybody. 50% under new oak. Delicious with tuna. * Fleur du Cap Pinotage 2000 - black fruit, wood tones, plus an underlying bitterness at finish. Dried tannins. * Fleur du Cap Shiraz 2000 +340422, $14.35 - a full and generous wine, not typical Shiraz, more like Syrah. Sweet oak. * Fleur du Cap Merlot 2001 +340414, $12.95 General List - bright in a North American style, fleshy, opulent fruit. Soft spices, some wood. * Fleur du Cap Sauvignon Blanc Unfiltered 2002 - about $17, another grassy wine but tempered with a full body and full fruit, lots of power and layers of fruit. Full blown. Figgy...Tuna and consomme. * Fleur du Cap Semillion Unfiltered 2001 - from a different area in South Africa, excellent length and semillon MVC, some oak tones knit well. Some oranges and peaches, 14% alcohol. My favorite white wine of the event, delicious with all the appetizers. * Fleur du Cap Chardonnay Unfiltered 2002 - about $18. Despite vanilla oak spice flavours, I found the wine a tad lean and green. It needed time to open and to warm up a bit. Definitely a food wine; it went well with the lobster. * Fleur du Cap Merlot Unfiltered 2000, $24.95 - medium-bodied at first, but opened into a huge wine, Bordeaux in style. 18 months on French oak. Good with the pork. * Fleur du Cap Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $26.95 - still tight and tannic, still years away from its potential. Worth cellaring. Dominated the food. More details about the wines from PMA, 905-820-4117 or TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 -- Hard to believe that I am doing this....After a night out with PMA celebrating my birthday, I get up at the crack of dawn to go to the LCBO Summerhill store to attend a Dom Perignon tasting at 8:30 AM, with Benoit Gouez, one of the oenologues behind the present day making and blending of this prestigious Champagne. [And directly after this I go to the New Zealand Wine Fairs]....The tasting here also served to announce to the wine press the new "Dom Perignon Depositaires" program. Beginning in the summer of 1993, the LCBO Summerhill location on Yonge Street in Toronto will be participating in this plan, which provides a home for access to five rare Dom Perignon Oenotheque vintages. Essentially, these are re-releases, with new labels (to distinguish them from the original releases) in reverse colours, for the vintages of 1959, 1962, 1973, 1980, and 1990, in addition to the currently available 1995 vintage. Stock and inventory will be maintained, and new vintages will be added as the older ones roll off. Later on that night, "The Oenotheque Experience at the Fifth" happened, for a mere $500 a head (a portion of that price went to charity). I managed to get a menu for my scrapbook (oyster soup, salmon, duck breast, truffles, cheeses, chocolates plus 5 vintages: 1995, 1980, 1990 (750mL and magnum), and Rose 1993)...Of course, after we had been in the LCBO's Tasting Room for awhile, the trains started rolling, and I think M.Gouez was a bit taken aback by the vibrations. I assume the storage areas at this location are well-insulated...Dom is shippd when ready, so Moet and Chandron hold back. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are in the variable blends (40 - 60% range), but there is no Meunier because it has no potential for aging...No Dom was made in 1991 nor 1994... M. Gouez conducted the tasting, after first approving each wine and ordering them for service...Here are some composite notes, along with prices at the LCBO: * 1995 (+280461, $160.15) - typical biscuit, slow mousse, surprisingly light with some anise, needs to open and show better. Long finish, ripe fruit, maturity vs. freshness balance. * 1992 - Magnum - well-aged nose, good depth, develops slowly, modest finish. More time in bottle than normal, nutty and creamy with yeasty flavours after a time. * 1992 Rose ($380) and 1993 Rose - totally different wines from the "white" champagne. Whites and Roses share no commonalities. Different styles, different winemakers. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for white component, plus some red Pinot Noir for a blend. Great colour, both wines similar, slightly off-dry in finish. Old vines, low yields. * 1988 ($245.50) - not yet mature, longer to age than the 1992. * 1985 RD 2002 - rich, ripe, and oxidative in style. Earthy underbrush, some mushroom component. The 1990 will sell for $245.50, the 1962 for $1046.25, the 1959 for $1354.60. For more details about the program and the champagnes, call the agent: Select Wines of Canada 416-367-5600. TUESDAY, MAY 27, 2003 -- The Taste of New Zealand Wine Fairs, run in conjunction with the New Zealand Consul General, held its annual trade show at Alice Fazooli's, mid-day...But first up was a wine seminar at 11 AM followed by a "meet and greet" lunch...Kudos to Robert Ketchin and his crew for organizing what must be considered one of the best well-run shows in town...The seminar this year was "New Zealand Chardonnay: a myriad of styles" which showcased the different types of wine made from this chamelon grape. The seminar explored the importance of Chardonnay to the New Zealand wine industry, the climate and terroir. Brian Bicknell of Seresin Estate in Marlborough conducted the session of nine wines. There was plenty of time for note-taking on the industry (regional focus, vineyard and winemaking influences, the future) and tasting before the BBQ chicken and lamb (what else?) buffet lunch. Here are some notes from the seminar (some of the wines are not available in Ontario: do call Robert Ketchin for the excellent New Zealand Wine Price and Availability Guide 2003): * Te Mata Estate Woodthorpe Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2002 ($24): all hand-picked, barrel fermentation. MVC nose, lifted fruit, typical palate, zesty finish. * Villa Maria Cellar Selection Chardonnay Marborough 2001 ($25): bright nose, some wood and succulence, full and lush on end, sip or food. * Forrest Estate Vineyard Selection Chardonnay Marlborough 2001 ($52): nose is extreme with lots of activity, creaminess, good balance with toast on finish. Burgundian style (and burgundian price), 13.9% alcohol. * Staete Landt Single Vineyard Chardonnay Marlborough 2001: some sweetness on palate, but otherwise long zesty length. * Alana Estate Chardonnay Martinborough 2001: more lush tones, toast and some yeast character, excellent length to the finish. * Olssens of Bannockburn Chardonnay Central Otago 2001: similar but slightly oily in the nose, thick unctuous body, some butter * Te Mata Elston Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2001: balanced nose for flavours, but fullish palate, okay length. * Felton Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented Central Otago 2001: soft, yeasty nose, fresh flavours. Hand picked. Now some notes from the show, which was very well-attended by both the trade and the consumers (I did not taste every wine in the walkaround): * from Thornbury Wines (agent Airen Imports 416-604-4076), Chardonnay 2000 Hawkes Bay (+704395 Vintages, $24.95) was full and firm, good finish for food, all handharvested. Merlot Hawkes Bay 2000 (consignment $28.87) was warm and inviting, berryish and minty. * from Waimea Estates (agent D.A.Lowe 905-849-1997), Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Nelson ($18.50 consignment) showed as one of the best overthetop sauvignon blancs, with its grass and herbs and grapefruit. * from Matakana Estate (agent Prevedello and Mathews 416-979-9153), some of the best wines at the show. Pinot Gris Matakana 2002 (coming to Vintages, In Store Discovery, $21.95) in Alsatian fat style, Goldridge Estate Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Marlborough 2002 (+912329, Fall 2003 Vintages, $18.45) was excellent in a rounded North American style, but good balance. Goldridge Estate Merlot Cabernet 2002 Matakana Reserve (+867895, $22.75 consignment) showed good fruit and wood, with long finish. A full range was shown from Matakana Estate, including Chardonnays, Semillons, Meritage, Syrah, Riesling -- they were all uniformly good, and all of them are coming soon over the next year. * from Babich Wines (agent Pernod Ricard 514-337-4388) Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Marlborough 2002 ($24) was grassy and full, developing well. * from Canterbury House (agent Woodman Wines 416-767-5114) Chardonnay Waipara 2002 ($20) showed detailed fruit on mid-palate. * from Fairhall Downs (agent MCO 905-562-1392) Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2002 (+990580, $19.95 Vintages June) had a balanced style, sip or food. * from Jackson Estate (agent Brave New Wines 416-921-9445) Chardonnay 2001 Marlborough (+946319, $20.55 Vintages) broad varietal character, but with some fruit and toast on the end palate. * from Matua Valley Wines (agent Caliber 905-761-8316) Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot Hawkes Bay 2002 ($16.40) was soft and fruity, yet showed good merlot definition. * from Sileni Estates (agent Maxxium 416-535-7899) Estate Selection Semillon Hawkes Bay 2002 ($17.95) showed good consistency with fruit on finish. Estate Selection Merlot/Cabernets Hawkes Bay 2000 (+977686, $21.85 Vintages) was Bordeaux-like in intensity, well-aged already, restaurant friendly. * from Te Kairanga (agent Capricorn 416-544-8685) Chardonnay 2002 Martinborough (+727024, $20 Vintages) fullish depth, and integration on the finish, at a nice price. WEDNESDAY, MAY 28, 2003 -- The Mission Hill Winemaker's Dinner with John Simes happened tonight at The Fifth, beginning with a reception of tuna and pate on various gaufrettes, accompanied by British Columbia's Mission Hill Pinot Grigio 2002 ($12.95, fresh and fruity and a quality sipper, went well with both appetizers, but less zesty than the 2001). During the patio gathering, we all had a chance to talk with John (and his Communications Director Corinne Kovalsky) about various winemaking developments at Mission Hill and in B.C. in general, as well as some talk about New Zealand wines (trade show was in town the two days before)...First up in the meal was a salad of sliced smoked duck breasts, with goat cheese and mache. With this came the Mission Hill Estate Chardonnay 2001, in which the grapes were handled with kid gloves: balanced fruit and wood and end toast, could be a lush sipper but there was enough zest to carry the food. Mission Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2000 showed a ripe nose, as well as some age (nice), albeit a tannic finish. The second course was Alaskan black cod "en crepinette", served with Mission Hill Gewurztraminer 2002 (light nose, good intense body, long length, a bit off-dry in the finish, carried off the cod very well). Between courses, John spoke about the wines and the harvests in general. The main course was a saddle of spring lamb, served with Mission Hill Estate Syrah 2000, made in a definite Rhone style with red fruit showing. Cheese was reblochon "en croute", and the showpiece of Mission Hill (Estate Oculus 2000) came out. This is the Bordeaux-style superstar, but with more fruit and a softer, more approachable finish than Pomerol. A dramatic wine, especially with the lamb.... Carmelized rhubarb clafouti was the dessert, accompanied by Mission Hill Reserve Late Harvest Riesling 2001, with stone fruit character plus some pear drops. Acid balance stood up to the crisp rhubarb, although it would be perfectly fine on its own. For more details on any of these wines (prices, availability, etc.) go to or call agents Mark Anthony 905-238-6731 WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR APRIL 2003 ===================================== BY Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 -- The beginning of a full month, non-stop, flat-out. It all starts with the German Wine Information Bureau putting on its annual wine fair, "Germany - Great Whites"...And so, first thing in the morning, the wine press and product consultants began a three-part tutored tasting and presentataion by some of the winery producers and principals who were in Toronto participating in the fair. The first flight dealt with the new style "Classic" wines, which are basically QbA quality wines from a single grape variety as found within one of the wine regions, complete with an AP number. This designation attempts to make the label cleaner and neater, although the word "classic" can be confusing, since the wine is obviously in a new, dry or off-dry style. Anyway, despite three rieslings being moderated over by Johannes Geil, it was Deinhard's General listed Pinot Blanc 2002 classic (+271072, $10.95) which won us over, with its fresh, full fruit and engaging finish. The second flight, moderated by Rainer "PowerPoint" Lingenfelder, showed us some "new millennium signature" wines, mainly riesling except for his own Spatburgunder 2000 (Pinot Noir) which was aged in small oak barrels. While a bit on the light side, it should give Alsatian pinot noir a run for its money...The third flight was on German sweet wines, the auslese plus levels, generally distributed in half-bottles. This was moderated by Joachim Binz of Schloss Vollrads. The tasting was followed by a light buffet lunch, featuring Black Forest ham, salmon, cheeses, fruits, and the like. Thanks to Ron Fiorelli for putting on the seminar. TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 -- "German -- Great Whites" was the theme for this year's German wine trade show, held, as always, at Roy Thomson Hall, mid-day for the trade and evening for the consumers. There were a lot of wines to taste, and some -- as always -- had uncertainties as to availability. The major players continue to be Burklin-Wolf (Pfalz), Deinhard (Rhine), Gunderloch (Rhine), Schloss Johannisberg (Rheingau), Lingenfelder (Pfalz), Schloss Schonborn (Rheingau), Schloss Vollrads (Rheingau). Some of the wines I enjoyed (I did not taste everything) in the walkaround included: * Burklin-Wolf 2001 Estate Riesling ($16 at Vintages), 1999 Riesling Spatlese Trocken ($28 for premier cru; $45 for grand cru), through RKW * Geil Erben Bechtheimer Hassenprung Riesling 2001 Kabinett had good body with an off-dry finish, 10% alcohol, through Connoisseur * Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Holle Riesling 2002 Spatlese Trocken (good body and finish), the Hochheimer Holle Riesling 1999 Auslese Trocken (delicious, but $50) through Halpern * Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling 2001 Spatlese, another stunner riesling from the dynamic 2001 vintage, through Churchill * Schloss Schonborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling 2001 Kabinett and the Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling 2001 Spatlese were superb examples of the vintage, through HHD Imports * Schloss Vollrads Riesling 2002 QmP Halbtrocken was one of the first wines out from this equally impressive vintage year. The Riesling 2001 Spatlese had some good tropicality ($31.90). Through Rogers & Co For more details on all things in German wines, consult Ron Fiorelli at the German Wine Information Bureau 905-815-1581... TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2003 -- In mid-day, the biennial Chairman's Gala Tasting took place at the Toronto Hunt. This was the Peter Mielzynski Agencies' portfolio tasting, which always draws a dramatically huge crowd. Like other years, it began with a couple of seminars...The first was on Maison Albert Bichot Chablis. It was a vertical tasting featuring nine different vintages of their Chablis Grand Cru "Les Blanchots" Domaine Long- Depaquit (Bichot has 10% of Chablis' Grand Cru vineyards)...The tour was conducted by Christophe Bichot, Export Director...We tasted 1991 (hazelnuts), the great 1993 (off-dry, toasty), 1994, the brilliant 1995, the dynamic 1996, the acidic 1998 (needs more time), the soft almost fruity 1999, the 2000, and the sterling 2001...We could use more verticals in Toronto.. Thanks to Todd McDonald, who arranged for everything this night...For the Port enthusiast, there was an Offley Boa Vista vertical of six vintages, led by Jose Maria Soares Franco, Technical Director of Sogrape Port Wines. The seminar began with an overview of Port, followed by the tasting of 1983 Boa Vista (high levels of alcohol, great body), 1987 (really fruity nose, floral quality, still tannic but also raisins and nuts, low acidity), 1995 (vanilla and spices on the nose, smooth, nutty, aging well), 1997 (hot fruity nose, but slightly less alcohol, vanilla appears on the palate, medium length), 1999 (not a classic vintage: mute nose, not complex, softer and approachable but also grapey), 2000 (wow: dense, chunky, tannic but balanced with okay fruit, 20.5% alcohol, hot nose). Later in the evening, there was an opportunity to taste the Colheita 1980, aged in oak until bottled: complex spices on the nose, jammy, long length, a personal favourite. This was followed by a "once-in-a-lifetime" tasting with Jorges Guimaraes, Export Director: he brought over a single, rare bottle of Offley Vintage Port bottled in 1863, and never exported to Canada before. We were privileged to have a small shot (about half an ounce)... The essence of light soul...Remarkable. Somebody told me later that the nose remained through the next day. I wouldn't know, since I returned my glass. But most glasses went missing, as well as the empty bottle itself. I hope it doesn't end up on eBay. If any reader knows where it is, please contact me or arrange for its return to Todd McDonald TUESDAY, APRIL 1, 2001 -- The actual Chairman's Gala portfolio tasting for Peter Mielzynski Agencies began at 5 PM, with wines and representatives from Forrester (Portugal), Casa Lapostolle and Marnier- Lapostolle (Chile and France), Saint Gall champagnes, Luscan (South Africa), Stoney Ridge (Ontario), William Grant scotch, Appleton Rums from Jamaica -- all neatly arranged on diverse tables with similar wines and food nearby. There was a haunch of beef, a roast of lamb, lots of oysters and cured salmon, cheeses, etc. etc. It was difficult to be completely objective, given the crowd and noise and food, but certainly it made it easier to find the outstanding wines which caught my attention. I did not taste everything, but here were some of my favourites of the evening: * Pommand Clos des Ursulines Domaine du Pavillon 1999 (Bichot) aggressive, needs more bottle time. * Dona Bernarda Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (Luis Felipe Edwards, Colchagua in Chile, $32.95): 60-year old vines, heavy, dense and chunky. A kockout in a few more years. * Kunde Estate Chardonnay 2001 (Sonoma) showed good integration. * McGuigan Genus 4 Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Hunter Valley) at $27.95 was fruity and delicious, with sufficient staying power. * Luis Felipe Edwards Carmenere Reserva 2000 (Chile) was a bargain for $15.95. * Clos Apalta 2000 Casa Lapostolle from Rapel Valley in Chile is their top of the line, $75 wine; it showed deep tones and rich fruit... * Villa Maria Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 (New Zealand) was firm and deft. * Montecillo Gran Reserva 1995 Rioja showed some raisins and nuts. * Buena Vista Grand Reserve Chardonnay 1999 was tasty but pricey at $75 * Montecillo Gran Riserva Seleccion Especial 1991 Rioja comes from 100% tempranillo grapes, aged 46 months in French oak, bottled July 1996. A masterpiece at $44.95 (Vintages). * Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay 2001 (Casablanca in Chile) showed good concentration of fruit and flavours for $23.95. * Nino Negri Sfursat Valtellina comes from Lombardy, from a nebbiolo grape clone, and while light, had excellent barbaresco-like tastes at a modest price. * Buena Vista Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 (Carneros) showed mounds of cedar, mint, chocolate, and some cherry fruit, displaying broad fruit on the palate. Only $85. * De Saint Gall "Cuvee Orpale" Grand Cru Champagne 1995, 100% chardonnay, on lees for seven years. Full of stuffing and long length. * De Saint Gall Premier Cru Blanc de Blanc Champagne 1996, also 100% chardonnay, but on the lees for six years. Slightly less rich than the Orpale. For details on prices, availablity, delivery, etc. etc., send email to WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2003 -- Another day for the palate to be tested. This was an all-day session judging for the Ontario Wine Awards. My panel (David Lawrason, Frank Baldock, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, and myself) blind tasted the 20 Chardonnays (stainless steel, no oak), the 14 Gewruztraminer, the 20 Merlot, 8 Late Harvest, and 30 Vidal Icewines. A hefty 92 wines on the day...By the time you read this, all the winners will have been announced. Here were my favourites: * Stoney Ridge Cellars 2000 Founder's Signature Chardonnay, expressive of the grape, good finish. First bottle corcked. * Legends Estate Winery 2002 Chardonnay Musque, aromatic, off-dry, good quality sipper. * Thirteenth Street 2001 Chardonnay Estate No Oak, good balance of fruit and acid, some premature bottle aging? long length * Maleta Estate 1999 Chardonnay, great nose, fine length and depth, aged very well, some creaminess. * Strewn Winery 2000 Gewurztraminer Terroir, great nose, body and length, stood out. * Creekside Estate 2000 Merlot Signature Series, deep nose, some age showing, broad fruit on palate. * Peller Estates 1999 Merlot Andrew Peller Signature Series, ripe, brown sugar on nose, great fruit on the palate, a long engaging finish. * Stoney Ridge 1999 Reserve Merlot, raisiny nose, good fruit on palate and length, MVC for sure. Needs food. * Cilento Wines 1999 Merlot Reserve, rounded black fruit on nose, approachable palate, and good length, sip or with food. * Marynissen Estates 1999 Merlot Barrel Select Marynissen Vineyards, wood tones on nose, smooth fruit, aging well. * Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery 1999 Botrytis Affected Riesling, definite riesling nose, palate spread with fruit, some length to the finish. [Not much botrytis character -- editorial comment, after I found out what it was] * Joseph's Estate 1998 Vidal Icewine, showed lovely dried fruit with a balance between a sweet finish and an acidic length. * Other Vidal Icewines I liked: Inniskillin 2001 Vidal, Southbrook 2001 Vidal, Peller Estates 2001 Vidal Founders, Strewn 2001 Vidal, Peninsula Ridge 2000 Vidal, Mountain Road 1999 Vidal, Palatine Hills 1998 Vidal... TUESDAY, APRIL 2, 2003 -- Some of us raced over to Crush, late day, to catch the remaining wines at the Port and Douro Wine Tasting, under the auspices of the Portuguese Trade Commission, William Delgado. Five companies were involved in a trade tasting, followed by a consumer tasting. Here are some notes: * Ferreira Esteva 2000, $10.50: firm, intense, good flavours at this price level. * Ferreira Vinha Grande 1999, $16: even better, with oak on the nose, but needs time for proper integration. * Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Douro 2000, $12: fruit and delivery but remains tannic. * Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Douro Reserva 2000, $24: depth of fruit and intensity. * Quinta Do Vallado Douro 2001, $15: raisins on the nose, but still developing. * Castelinho Douro Reserva 1999, $24: aged a year in oak, still tannic but with flavours showing (+704981) * Quinta do Crasto Red 2000, $16: fresh fruit on nose, okay finish. First bottle was stale or corked. * Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva 2000, $25: some wood here makes all the difference. Ports included some LBVs and Ferreira Vintage 2000 ($80), Quinta do Bom Retiro 20 year tawny ($55: great flavours, my favourite of the day), Quinta do Vale Dona Maria Reserve Port ($30), and Quinta do Crasto 2000 ($60). THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2003 -- Dragging my tongue behind me, I limped into the Chile Wines Trade Tasting Event, with more than 16 producers, 1 PM starting time, at the Queen's PArk Ballroom of the Park Hyatt. It was a good event to conclude the tasting marathon of the previous two days, since most Chilean wines on the market, at least up to the $30 level, show fruit and vanilla and softness and approachability. My taste buds needed a rest from tough tannins and high sugars. On the other hand, it is perfectly easy to be seduced by the fruit-forward nature of most Chilean wines. Most of what was on display were fruit-driven, restaurant-ready wines, mostly for sipping or aperitifs. Some -- but not all -- could be considered with food. Also, many of the larger companies have six to eight different levels, reflecting dollars at every pricepoint, from entry to collectable.... Top players here included San Pedro, Concha y toro, Errazuriz, Santa Carolina, Carmen, Caliterra, Santa Rita, Tarpapaca, Undurraga, Cono Sur, Cousino-Macul. But where was Casa Lapostolle? They were in town for the PMA Chairman's Gala... More details about Chilean wines from DBA Communications, or Here were my favourites from the walkaround (and, again, prices and availability were scattered); I did not sample every wine: * Vina Caliterra Sena 1998, a massive wine. 1999 will be in the Fall Catalogue, at $75. * Vina Caliterra Arboleda Merlot 2000, with 8% cab. sauv.,5% carmenere, and 2% syrah, coming later in the Spring at $19.95, fairly rich and firm with some structure from the added 14% grapes. * Vina Carmen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $15.95 GL, 14% alcohol, dependable fruit, light hit of green herbs. * Vina Carmen Reserve Carmenere Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, a 60/40 blend, used to be known as "Grand Vidure" in this market, a better name...Still expressive. * Casa del Bosque Merlot Reserva 2001, $15.95, fruity wine with lots of body, some chocolate and mint. * Cono Sur Vision Gewurztraminer 2002, available as a screwtop, showed good gewurztraminer character * Cono Sur Vision Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $17.85 Vintages in May, is a sipper. Smooth, lots of vanilla. * Echeverria Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $30, was excellent at this price, with sufficient acid levels to carry the fruit through dinner. Plus five years aging in it right now. * Errazuriz Vinedo Chadwick 1998, $75, with 94% cabernet sauvignon and 6% merlot and 14% alcohol, was one of the finest -- but pricey -- wines of the show. * Odfjell Armador Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $14.95, with firm fruit and long length, showed very well against higher priced wines. * San Pedro Castillo de Molina Reserva Chardonnay 2002, $12.95, the 1999 vintage was my house chardonnay for awhile, the 2002 is just as good. * Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 and Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2001 are both coming soon to Vintages, around $20, both barrel-aged. * Santa Rita Estate Reserva Cabernet 1999, from Maipo, 13.5% alcohol, $69.45, made from 40-year old vines and aged in French toasted oak. The VSC 1999 is a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% syrah, and 20% merlot, full and firm. * Vina Tarapaca Casblanca Reserve Chardonnay 2001, at $18, tastes like a top of the line bottle. * Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Carmenere 2001, at $15, was my top inexpensive wine in this show, with its distinctive nose, ripe fruit, and full firm expression of MVC. A winner... * Concha y Toro Likan Carmenere Cabernet Sauvignon, $12.50 at Vintages this summer, +713909, an organic wine made from 50-50 blend, fermented and aged in stainless steel. Lots of fruit tonalities of purees. TUESDAY, APRIL 8, 2003 -- Churchill Cellars put on its first ever all wines Portfolio tasting, midday at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club (St.George)...General List, Vintages, and some other wines were presented. The room with the Vintages selections drew most of the heavy action. Here are some notes on my favourites (I did not taste every wine): * Pol Roger Brut NV Champagne, +51953 General, competitively priced at $45.05, with that classic biscuity character * Quails' Gate Limited Release Chardonnay (British Columbia), +377770 General, almost a steal at $14.45 for this upfront and ready wine with gentle oaking. * Banrock Station Chardonnay (Australia), +463943 General, $9.15, continues to provide a good mix of fruit, acid, and oak tones. * Oregbaglas Irsai Oliver (Hungary), +898866 General, $6.95, a fine bargain with off-dry muscat character, inexpensive sipper for summer. * Hardy Bankside Shiraz 1998 (South Australia), +436022 Vintages Essentials, $15.95, showed warm fruit and good bottle age. * Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec (Clare, Australia), +478552 General, $19.95 at the high end of the Oz category, but worth the price for its richness of mint, black fruit and dark chocolate, sortof After Eightish... * La Baume Cabernet Sauvignon (Pays d'Oc), +477786 General, $10.10, one of the few cabbies from southern France to display some actual MVC instead of just softness. The range of wines arriving in Vintages was complicated by having a presentation that included older wines, newer wines, future Vintages, and speculative wines. Churchill Cellars even had two Licensee Only wines for sampling, a shiraz and a chardonnay, branded as Woodcroft, from Hardy's. Product availability for some wines were not necessarily guaranteed (sold out, late arrivals, etc.), but we can see the following coming out this year: * Pinot Gris Cuvee Emil Willm Reserve 2000 from Alsace, in both full and half- bottles on May 24, $21.95 for 750mL * a range of Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Rieslings (Kabinett and Auslese) * Banrock Station's Sparkling Shiraz NV returns this fall, at $13.95 * Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 1999 at $25.75 will be in this Fall; we sampled the 2000, and it was dynamite in its structure. * Tintara Chardonnay 2000 arrives this summer, value-priced at $19.95 * Top end Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($69.95) and Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2000 ($94.95) both return to Vintages this fall. * Chivite is expected this spring and summer. Their Coleccio 125 Riserva 1997 comes out May 10; the Vina Salceda Crianza line this summer (the 1996 Reserva was nicely priced at $25.65) * D'Arenberg's The d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache 2000, +942904 Vintages, which just came out at $18.95 (50 - 50 blend, delicious syrah component, long finish) is soon to be a Vintages Essential. * More Domaine d la Baume "Selection" series, priced about $15, will be out at Vintages this summer, the Syrah Cabernet blend, the Sauvignon Blanc, and the Viognier. For more details, call Churchill Cellars at 416-368-5108. MONDAY, APRIL 14, 2003 -- The Wine Institute of California's annual 23rd Canadian Wine Tour came to the Fairmount Royal York, beginning at 10 AM with a special seminar featuring the luncheon's guest speaker, Jon Fredrikson (President of Gomberg, Fredrikson and Associates -- the oldest American consulting firm specializing in wine industry matters). Publisher of the Gomberg-Fredrikson Report, Jon is a wine industry economist with over three decades of practice in the industry. His seminar addressed current US industry trends and market conditions. He dealt with details about the factors affecting the wine market in the US. He provided some insight into competitive activity (e.g., he was quite candid in saying that every winery has some problem, but that each winery's problem is different from all the other guys' problems). His PowerPoint presentation began with a history of production, showing that projections were outofwhack in the 1980s (for a variety of reasons, people had cut back on drinking). Then, actual purchases surprised everybody in the 1990s by climbing. This was attributed to the French paradox and other health issues (e.g., wine is good for you in moderation, etc.). Go figure...The California wine industry, responding to health concerns, now finds that it has a high inventory with a large number of mid-range brands. People are drinking less but better. California chardonnay is still tops, but Australian chardonnay is coming on strong. Red wine is still driving the market, but while cabernet sauvignon sales are up, merlot sales are down. Premium imports are rising, to a new high. Imports are now 25% of the US market, by volume. When I first started writing about wine in the late sixties, imports had less than 15% of the US market... TUESDAY, APRIL 14, 2003 -- It may have been the 23rd Annual Canadian Wine Tour, but to the Fairmount Royal York, it was the 11th Annual California Wine Fair Luncheon to be held on its premises (or so the menu said). The sparkling wine reception featured Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut, Domaine Chandron Brut Classic, Schramsberg Brut to Brut, and Mumm Cuve Napa Blanc de Noir (slightly rose, full bodied, great taste and delivery). The luncheon, well-attended as always, had political speeches and a short rundown on the California wine industry (from Jon Fredrikson). The wine media and LCBO personnel were distributed throughout the Imperial Room. I was at Diageo's table, hosted by the gracious Cheryl Hudson. She filled me in on upcoming plans and products, including some new Licensee Only selections from Beaulieu Vineyards (Coastal Cabernet Sauvignon, $17.95, and Coastal Sauvignon Blanc, $15.95). With the lunch, though, we tasted Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, a good deal at Vintages on May 10 for $32.95. We opened with Sterling North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $20 at Vintages, a fresh and fruity wine with low herbal component, could double as sipper or with food. Both wines, plus a Sterling Vineyard Collection Merlot at $19.95, went well with the food. We opened with Parma ham and spring vegetables (whose spring?) with a rice tian, followed by roasted veal tenderloin with an onion tart, butternut squash and parsnip puree (shades of winter?), and some Canadian cheeses. TUESDAY, APRIL 14, 2003 -- And so, on to the California wine show: 350 wines from 85 wineries, from all parts of California. Some principals and other executives were pouring, for the trade mid-day and for consumers at night. Where to start? Well, I had a media preview tasting of some 70 wines, so I crossed them off my list. We already had four sparklers plus a few table wines. I had already read the program a month ago, so I got a strategy. And lo and behold! There were actually maps available, showing where everybody's table was located. So I did manage to pack in a fair bit in two and a half hours. Here are some notes, I did not taste every wine during the walkaround, and I did not pursue every single agent, price, and availability (this usually takes up a lot of precious tasting time; however, when it was volunteered, I wrote it down): * Arrowood Sonoma Merlot 1999, very elegant and mouthfilling, needs time * Arrowood Sonoma Chardonnay Reserve Special Cuvee Michel Berthoud 2000, $51, another very stylish wine, worth every penny. * Ballentine Vineyards BG Red Table Wine Napa Valley 1998, $66, a 50 - 50 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon, showing firm fruit and long length, needs food. * Chateau St.Jean Chardonnay 2001 Sonoma, showed good body and silken texture. * Clos du Val Chardonnay Carneros Napa 2000, was intense and concentrated. * Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 1998 was very good in all departments. * Silver Oak Cellars had two Cabernet Sauvignons from 1998, the Alexander Valley was aged in new and used US oak. The Napa Valley (with 4% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot) was slightly heavier in texture. * Napa Vista (Peter Mondavi) Merlot 1999, $30, was still tight, needing some cellartime for the fruit to shine. * Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Napa 1998 was an outstanding example of aging. * Frog's Leap Chardonnay Napa 2001 was very tasty and mouthfilling. * Hess Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, was extremely warm and inviting, almost succulent. * Justin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $42.45, showed some power and finesse at the same time. * Kunde Estate Zinfandel Shaw Vineyards "Century Zinfandel" 2000, $60 at Classics, came from 121 year-old vines, remarkably off-dry texture, ready. * MacRostie Merlot Napa Valley-Carneros 1999, dense and chunky, to cellar. * Merryvale Reserve Merlot Napa 2000, $50, toasty, nearly approachable. * Niebaum-Coppola Francis Coppola Diamond Series Merlot 2000, with some 18% syrah, had a rhone-ish quality. * Niebaum-Coppola Francis Coppola Diamond Series Chardonnay 2001, firm. * Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Chardonnay 2000, approachable, almost a sipper. * Rodney Strong Merlot Sonoma 2000, soft and fruity. * Steele Cabernet Franc 2000, crisp and developing well. * Sterling Vineyards Three Palms Merlot 1999, $60, light in style, but oak- infused, good flvours and balance. * Villa Mt.Eden California Old Vines Zinfandel 1999, not as demanding in complexity as the Kunde, but still deep and delicious. * Wente Riva Ranch Reserve Chardonnay 2001, $25 at Vintages, good quality at this level. * Wild Horse Merlot Paso Robles 2000, was noted as being "very good" More details about all things California: 905-336-8932, or TUESDAY, APRIL 22, 2003 -- Today must be South Africa day, since I have two separate items in my daybook. The first was the mid-day tasting of premium South African red wines, for the trade at Canoe. Through errors of communication, I was unable to taste all of the wines at this event. High end wines included Vergelegen Cabernet/Merlot 1999 ($39) repped by RKW Imports, Warwick Three Cape Ladies (cabernet/merlot/pinotage) repped by Hobbs & Co., and Nederburg Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 ($23.95) repped by Mark Anthony..Twenty-five wines in all were presented. Many of these will be coming to Vintages, or perhaps some are already released. Here are some notes on the five wines I did taste -- * Bonfoi Estate Merlot 2001, $17.95, from DS Sutherland: 13.5% alcohol, smooth, well-priced, exceptionally fruity, approachable, medium length. Later on a revisit: some hazelnuts on the midpalate. * Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $24.40, from Hobbs & Co.: 14.5% alcohol, very Bordeaux in style, firm structure needs cellaring. French oak for 22 months, 50% new. Needs food, even after a revisit. * Simonsig Frans Malan Reserve 1999, from Authentic Wines: 13.5% alcohol, one of the many successful blends from South Africa. A mix of mostly pinotage, with merlot and cabernet sauvignon. A keeper, with some some tartness in the finish, but lovely wood and caramel on the palate. Opened up beautifully, but not a sipper -- needs food and softening. * Beyerskloof Synergy 2001, from Maxxium Canada: 13.5% alcohol, 36% pinotage, 39% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon. And totally different from the Frans Malan, a richer, more full wine with some chocolate. Very merlot-like with cabernet backbone....little pinotage character on a revisit. * De Toren Fusion V 2001, $39.95, from HHD Imports: in the Classics Catalogue in May, 14.5%, and using all five classic Bordeaux grape varieties -- cabernet sauvignon (57%), merlot (14%), malbec (14%), cabernet franc (11%), and petit verdot (4%). Black fruits, coffee-mocha, plums, very much a French feel with French new and old oak (but also with some US oak). A winemaker's skilled wine, demanding, and needing food. For more details on the premium wines of South Africa, contact Laurel Keenan TUESDAY, APRIL 22, 2003 -- The South African Wine Society, which mixes wine tastings with wine dinners, held its Spring dinner at Spago (High Park and Bloor), an up and coming venue for wine dinners -- it has been the scene of many wine societies this culinary year. The dinner was in honour of Mike Ratcliffe from Warwick Estates in South Africa (repped here by Hobbs & Co.). He is one of the new generation of young winemakers in South Africa who are changing the face (taste?) of the wines from that country. Over the past 10 years Warwick has achieved success for its viticultural methods; it is largely an organic and terroir-driven, environmentally concerned winery. The estate is apparently filled with birds such as eagles and owls, preying on vermin that can create havoc in the vineyards. Out of all this have come numerous gold medals. Canadian-born (Edmonton) Mike spoke to the wines -- the Society provided a variety of wines, some announced and some unannounced. We began with some appetizers (prosciutto and asparagus, red pepper pomponnettes) accompanied by Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 1999 (society's cellars: described as "lunch-time gentle", an entry level sauvignon blanc midway between New Zealand's zest and California's fruit, from Boekenhoutskloof. A good match with sufficient heft take on the peppers). Also for sampling, we had as Astonvale Colombard 2000, a zesty wine in the aromatic sauvignon blanc tradition. Next up was the grilled portobello mushroom salad with goat cheese and greens, a good combination with the Astonvale Chardonnay 2000, 13.5%, lightly fragrant, that cut through the sour character of the cheese. A second chardonnay was the Durbanville Hills Chardonnay 2001 (from PMA), 13.5%, with just a hint of oaking and a slightly bitterish finish which complemented the mushrooms. The treat of the evening was Warwick Trilogy 1999, which was first made in 1984 ($34.40, Hobbs & Co. are agents) -- always a gold medalist. About equal parts of merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with about 5% cabernet franc. Juicy, ready sooner rather than later, 13.5% alcohol, French oak, some new. Still needs time to open up, long long finish. It had a rich merlot component, and was well-matched with the lamb shank (roasted potatoes, broccoli, peppers, carrots). Dessert was a gewurztraminer and saffron poached pear with walnut- pear baklava and vanilla ice cream, a definite highlight of the meal...With it came Delheim Gewurztraminer 2002 (+844001, $15.95 from Wineworld agency) an off-dry muscat-like wine, from 14 year old vines, and with reduced bitterness in the finish. A good wine with which to finish the evening. Plus, of course, coffee. And everybody seemed to linger for quite a while, talking to Mike and other society members. Attendance appeared to be about 40, service was gracious, and the price reasonable, $65 a member, tout compris...Upcoming events include a blind tasting (May 29), their Annual Braai (South African dinner festival) on June 22, a wine tasting in September, a Pinotage tasting on Oct 21 and Oct 28, a Christmas Dinner, and other wine and cheese functions in 2004. There is also usually a Wild Game dinner function each February, and about 9 or 10 total functions a year, featuring of course, the wines of South Africa. Many of these wines are not commercially available, and some have been stored in the society's own cellars. Some reds the society has may not even be available at the original winery. The South African Wine Society is now in its 11th year. Membership is on a calendar year basis, $25 a head or $40 a couple. And when you join, you get your own personal nametag.....The current President and Event Co-ordinator is Eleanor Cosman. The website, for more details, is or call 905-762-9161 or High recommended for a good time.... WEDNESDAY, APRIL 23, 2003 -- Sante The Bloor-Yorkville Wine Festival held its opening press conference in the Atrium entrance to the Manulife Centre. Details of the program were announced -- brochures are everywhere -- and more info can be found at the website The activities range from a tasting of French wines (May 6, ROM, $80, 7:30PM), through their "sip, savour and dine" program of winemaker dinners, the International Tasting (May 7, Liberty Grand, $70, 7:30 PM), the Fine Wine and Food Gala Dinner (May 8, Four Seasons, $195, 7 PM), and the Saturday May 10 education seminars. 51 wineries have confirmed, from a variety of countries, including Ontario (20 wineries). Last year, more than 6000 people signed up for events. At the launch, we had a chance to sample Balderson cheese -- including a five year old cheddar -- plus some wines such as Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, the Chilean Albamar Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Reserve ($12.95), the Calama Merlot Central Valley 2001 also from Chile ($9.50), the Peller Estates Private Reserve Cabernet Franc 2000 from Niagara (barrel aged), and the lovely Cambras Chardonnay 2001 from Greece -- all of these were some of the better wines from amongst the two dozen on display...For more details about anything to do with Sante, contact the website or WEDNESDAY, APRIL 23, 2003 -- At 7 PM, Wine Access magazine opened the doors at Oro to promote their Fall trip to Sicily, "Splendours of Sicily: wine, cuisine and culture" -- full details are at the website It was actually a mini- winefair, with a dozen wineries offering their wines for tasting, followed by a range of finger food reflective of the island (e.g., local pecorinos and other cheeses, arancio "telephone wires", different olive oils to sample), and then a presentation about the tour. Bottom line: 10 days, Sept 26 - Oct 5 2003, $2990 a head. Check the website...All of the wines were of exceptionally uniform quality. The whites were from local varieties catarratto and inzolia (both very fruity and clean) augmented or blended with local sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. The reds were nero d'avola or blends. And good value in their prices. Here are some notes: * from Black Ram agents, the line of Tenuta La Lumia, which includes Signorio Blanco 1999, all inzolia, $20; Gloria 2000, 50% inzolia and 15% alcohol - strong flavours, sherry-like fino tones, but $45; Halykas 2000, 14%, fruity with a good acid finish, $45; in reds -- Signorio Nero d'Avola 1996 was remarkable value for under $20; and the red Limpindos 1998, also $45, showed a broad sweetness on the back palate. More affordable was the line from Benanti, with a white Pietra Marinara 1997 (still fresh and young tasting) and the delicious Rovittello Etna Rosso 1997. * Maxxium had Donnafugata's Sedara 2001, $18, fruit-driven nero d'avola, and its Mille e Una Notte Contessa Entellina 1999, $65, mostly nero d'avola, 24 months in French oak. Good body and dynamite finish, as expected at this price. * Ruby Wines had Duca di Salaparuta, which means Corvo Red and/or White, blends ($10.75 each) with a number of wines on consignment (Triskele 1999, $35) and soon to Vintages (Duca Enrico 1999, 13.5%, all nero d'avola, French oak and $65). There were also some Planeta wines, red and whites, ranging upwards from $15, available starting in June. The whites had grecianico (50%), chardonnay (20%), viognier (10%), sauvignon blanc: a real aromatic mix. The reds had nero d'avola, merlot and syrah... * Schiralli Agencies had Pasqua and Fazio. Pasqua's Nero d'avola Mezzo Giorno 2001 was very food oriented, $9.05. Pasqua's Kemonia Mezzo Giorno 2000 (60% syrah, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot) was intense with a long mammoth finish, $33.80 on consignment * Small Winemakers had Spirito di Rallo 2001, $9.35 General (+612762), about 70% nero d'avola and 30% cabernet sauvignon, firm with dried fruit components. The Cantine Rallo's Nero d'Avola 2000 ($15 on Consignment) has a year in barrel for a finer texture of cherries, needs food. * Wine Lovers Agency had Conte Tasca d'Almerita's Regaleali Rosso 2000 ($19.55 by consignment) with perricone and nero d'avola grapes, some oak aging, and an almond component, and their Regaleali Bianco 2001 ($17.90, a tri-partite blend of catarratto, inzolia, and sauvignon blanc, with persistent flavours and lean acidity for food. A good white wine at this mini-fair... * Majestic Wine Cellars showed in with Pellegrino's Cent'are Rosso (+546192 on General List, $10.85), as well as the aromatic Moscato di Pantelleria ($27.75) and Passito di Pantelleria ($21.30), both here on consignment. THURSDAY, APRIL 24, 2003 -- Adrian Williamson of Tastevin Selections had a mid- day show for trade and media, at Opus Restaurant, with a collection of Salon Champagnes (vintage champagnes, but not made every year), as well as Delamotte. After the tasting, we were all invited to try lobster salad and some smoked salmon hors d'oeuvre. Here are some notes; contact for details * Delamotte Brut NV $43 on consignment, 50% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, 20% petit meunier. Straightforward, food-friendly champagne, available in many restaurants as affordable and fresh. * Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997, coming to Vintages this summer at around $65, showed a great nutty nose, good depth, finishing off light and crisp, 100% chardonnay -- from three different crus. Subtle candied fruit. * Salon Le Mesnil Sur Oger 1995, in Spring Classics, $200, a little nervous at this point, is the latest release from the company. It will pay to keep it in your cellar for another few years, at least 2005+ * Salon Le Mesnil Sur Oger 1990, about $280, showed a good solid nose, full of warmth and development, longish finish but still crisp. * Salon Le Mesnil Sur Oger 1988, about $350 maybe at Christmas, had some good depth to the finish. Phenomenal, my favourite of the afternoon. * Salon Le Mesnil Sur Oger 1982 (not available for purchase) showed mounds of biscuits, and a slight roundness on the finish. TUESDAY, APRIL 29, 2003 -- Thompson Vintage Trade had a full portfolio tasting at Crush. The wine media were invited earlier to share in a light lunch as well as taste the wines. About 30 wines were shown, all top notch, from Alkoomi, Moss Brothers, Willow Bridge, Hamelin Bay, Picardy (all Western Australia), Millsreef from New Zealand, Vieil Armand (Alsace), Huber (Austria), Rust en Vrede and Guardian Peak from South Africa. Here are some notes on what I thought were the best of the day: * Moss Brothers Semillon 2002, $16.95: extremely grassy, slightly bitter after taste, needs food, but a wonderful hit * Moss Brothers Cabernet-Merlot-Cabernet Franc 1999, $28.95: mostly equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot, 4% franc added in. 18 months in new French oak, great mouthfeel and coats the palate, long enduring finish. * Willow Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2001, $14.95: a 60-40 split, very sippable and grassy, patio wine. * Willow Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2002, $17.95: a dramatic step-up in quality, showing intense nose and palate, as well as length. * Willow Bridge Shiraz Reserve 2001, $24.50: 14.5% alcohol, good MVC for shiraz, ready soon, needs food. * Hamelin Bay Rampant White 2001, $16.95: rampant as in heraldry, not as in "go wild". Still, excellent fruit blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon, and chardonnay. * Hamelin Bay Coin Range Shiraz 2000, $22.95: 15% alcohol, almost Oz port level but dry of course. Dynamite explosive flavours on the palate, triple MVC...One of the best wines in the show. * Picardy Shiraz 2001, $28.95: 14.5% alcohol, made in the French Rhone style of "syrah", wonderful intense typical MVC showing some age. Pick of the day! * Millsreef Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2002, $19.95: my pick for best sauvignon blanc at the tasting. * Vieil Armand Gewurztraminer Tradition 2001, $17.95: a bargain price for this kind of quality in an MVC wine. * Vieil Armand Tokay Pinot Gris Grand Cru Ollwiller 2000, $24.95: unbeatable price for a grand cru, full, off-dry, delicious fruit component. * Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $28.95: 13% alcohol, elegant European (Bordeaux) style, merges well with food. * Guardian Peak Merlot 2001 and Shiraz 2002, both $13.95: were probably the best inexpensive reds here, both delicious. 14% alcohol in the Merlot, 14.5% in the Shiraz. Both also had some depth and lingering on the finish. David gave us a great catalogue, with all the names and numbers we needed for the mechanics of availability, prices, quantities, time of arrival, etc. For details, contact David Thompson toll free at 1-866-390-8745. TUESDAY, APRIL 29, 2003 -- And so on to the next one, a Quails' Gate portfolio tasting at the National Club, hosted by the Ontario agency, Churchill Cellars. Nine wines were presented (some of these were also at the Young Winemakers show the next day), out of 20 available through the website Some I particularly enjoyed included: * Family Reserve Chardonnay 2001, about $29: aged in French oak for 9 months, extended lees contact. Rich buttery detail and extended MVC. * Family Reserve Chardonnay 2000, also about $29: very rich, almost Oz-like in its tropicality and body. * Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2001, about $35: Burgundian in scope, but also already soft and fruity, and certainly affordable. * Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2000, also about $35: showed more aging potential, and food-worthiness. Concentrated flavours, age it more. * Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, about $35: more in the Oz vein, with juicy upfront flavours, lots of fruit. * Limited Release Chardonnay 2000, $14.95 General List here, very ripe and priced to go. Best QPR of the show... TUESDAY, APRIL 29, 2003 -- The Portuguese Trade and Tourism Commission, in association with Rachel-Waldorf Agencies and Casal Branco wines, had a special trade tasting of wines from the region of Ribatejo. Dina Luis, the winemaker, was here for the Young Winemakers show, and took time to have a private tasting for the trade. Of course, it was at Chiado, with superb appetizers to complement the wines. But, as is common with too many of these functions, there was no list of wines, and prices were vague. (David Thompson, where are you?). Here were some of the impressive wines, with some details copied off the labels. For other details, contact Jose Paradela 416-460-6506. * Globus 2002, from fernao pires grapes, was fresh and fruity with a longish length. * Falcoaria 2001 (also at the Young Winemakers show) was the best white, with delicious sun-ripened flavours, a quality sipper. * Terra de Lobas Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, 13%, was soft and fruity, developing nicely but needed time. Also at the show, as was the Capucho Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, again 13%, more powerful and tannic. Both wines could profit from some cellaring... There was also a Falcoaria red (1999) made from trincadeira and cabernet sauvignon grapes, as well as a Globus red, both styles being different according to exposure to wood and pickings. TUESDAY, APRIL 29, 2003 -- To the evening: the Annual Dinner of the Ontario Wine Society, this year held at Bb33 Bistro & Brasserie, inside the Delta Chelsea Inn. It was all led by Chef de Cuisine Margaret MacKay, who specializes in sourcing Canadian ingredients and organics as much as possible, and by Rob Power, the senior winemaker at Creekside. Rob, one of the first graduates from CCOVI, commented on the wines in lay terms. First up was the high end Signature Chardonnay 2000 ($20, Gold Medal at Cuvee 2003), which I did not have since I was late walking over from Chiado...I did have an entry level Chardonnay, the Bench 2001 ($11.75) which was better drunk with the appetizers (which I also missed: oysters and trout). The sitdown part of the meal itself began with a house smoked chicken and fennel soup that was absolutely delightful, and well-matched with Creekside's Pinot Gris 2002 ($14.95, full, firm, off-dry, good acid finish). The entrees were one of a choice: vegetarian (homemade porcini fettuccini with roasted asparagus and sorrel), fish (poached BC halibut wrapped in organic lettuce) or venision medallion with organic veggies. I didn't see any porcini and just a few halibuts. The venison was another superb dish, with a cherry balsamic glaze and celery root blinis. It was accompanied by Creekside's Laura's Blend 2000 ($15.95 at Vintages May 24, a blend of cabernet sauvignon-merlot-cabernet franc, showing a combination of peppers and cassis). I also tasted Creekside's Gewurztraminer 2001, which was to go with the other dishes: $12.95, firm body, MVC for the grape, spicey but not bitterish. Dessert was none other than the famous Butterscotch Pot de Creme with almond biscotti -- just about everybody had it. The alternate dessert was the Chocolate Ganache Cake with berry glaze. Creekside's Select Late Harvest Vidal 2000 ($12.95 half-bottle, long flavours of apricots with a semi-dry finish) accompanied both. I favoured it with the biscotti, preferring my SLHs with fruit...Fifty people attended; it was full, with a lot of turndowns...For more details about the wines or Creekside, call 1-877-262-9463 For more details about the Ontario Wine Society (this meal cost $75 a head), call 416-921-9798... WEDNESDAY, APRIL 30, 2003 -- "Vintages Presents a Young Winemakers Tasting" was held at the Steamwhistle Brewery Roundhouse, behind SkyDome. The wine media were very kindly invited an hour ahead of the 500 plus expected consumers, although even that lead time proved too short since we were exposed to over 65 wines. Luckily, I had tasted some Quails' Gate and Casal Branco the day before, plus other wines that were on show elsewhere. Regretably, there was not even enough time to say "hello" to many winemakers -- the room filled up fast, and the music was kicked up a notch after every tune, drowning out conversation. I ended up pointing at bottles and pushing a glass at the servers. There was an inherent vagueness to the availability and pricing situation; many pourers did not know about prices or where the wines were in the system. This leads me to believe that the balloting system for favourite wines of the night was to be used as a measurement for what wines to order for the future...Here were some impressions about my favourite wines of the show, although it was difficult to taste them properly after awhile. And please consider this a ballot!! * Iron Horse Zinfandel Reserve 2000, California, $40 on consignment now, from 92-year old vines, excellent fruit and depth. * Linton Park South Africa Capell's Court Shiraz 2002, $14 at Vintages ? unwooded fruit, nice dry finish. * Linton Park SA Merlot 2001, $25, delicious fruit, clean finish. * Linton Park SA Shiraz 2001, $25, deep and delicious, tartish finish suggests food. One year in wood. * La Tunella, Friuli, L'Arcione 2001, $25, quality blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and local schioppettino, aged in French oak. * Mas de Daumas Gassac 2001, Languedoc, excellent but very expensive, lots of deep chocolate flavours from southwest France. * Castello di Fonterutoli, Tuscany, Chianti Classico 2000, $58, and almost worth every penny for its high style...New chateau-style wine from Chianti, at riserva levels. * Serrata di Belguardo Tuscan Maremma 2001, $25, cabernet sauvignon (40%), sangiovese (40%), merlot (20%), done up for 10 months in new French oak. This is a North American (in style) wine for dining. * Domaine Langlois-Chateau Saumur Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2001, $26 at Vintages soon, quite attractive white made from chenin blanc grapes. * Heredia Vina Bosconia 1996, Rioja, $32 Vintages, one of the older reds here on show, deliciously aging well. * Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella 2000, $24 in Vintages over the summer, showed some concentrated flavours and long finish. * Southbrook Chardonnay Triomphe 1999, Niagara, $18, a winner in the under $20 chardonnay sweepstakes... Meanwhile, for further details, go to a Product Consultant or PRODUCT SAMPLES TASTING NOTES ============================= Always available at * Santa Ines Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Maipo, +349993 General, $8.95: initally soft on the palate, with full-fruit midway, finishes a bit hard. Softened the next day. Needs time to come around, and definitely needs food, still a good price. * Santa Ines Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Maipo, +350009 General, $8.95: one the few Chilean sauvignon blancs with decent flavour, flowers and apples. Sipper. * De Martino Chardonnay 2001 Maipo, +602706 General, $9.95: a good balanced sipping chardonnay, affordable. * De Martino Malbec 2000, +602698 General, $9.95: with 10% cabernet sauvignon added in, giving it more cassis and black fruit as contrast to the plumminess. * Hillebrnd Trius Chardonnay Beamsville Bench 1998, +291468, already nicely aged by the winery: almost a year on its lees in mostly French oak...Ready to drink now, all nice buttered toast with lemon marmalade... * Hillebrand Showcase Chardonnay 2000 Unfiltered Glenlake Vineyard, +981043, is interesting because each bottle has some lees. The juice was barrel fermented and then aged for one year in all French oak. The "sur lie" nature will allow it to age gracefully for six or more years. One to cellar, or give it a cold chill to settle the lees (and do drink the lees: same health benefits as beer yeasts). * Malivoire Rose "Ladybug" 2002, +559088 $15: one-quarter of production is going to LCBO but under the "Rose" label (no mention of the word ladybug), for May 24 release. Mainly cabernet franc (strawberry nose) and gamay (floral tones) with other unspecified vinifera for additional dry fruitness (maybe some chardonnay musque??). Aperitif and appetizers. Maybe even cassoulet (but I'd need to taste it first: how about next year?) * Malivoire Chardonnay Musque "Spritz" 2002, $17 at winery: the lastest musque to hit the market, deliberately fermented cool to 8.5% alcohol, and with some natural fizziness ("spritz"). Drink this summer, sipper... * Malivoire Pinot Gris 2002, +591305, $18: Vintages is taking one-quarter of the lot, for July 26 release..Citric aromatics, in Italian style, but will keep. Possible for aperitif and fish. * Hillebrand Showcase Merlot 2000 Glenlake, +994574, $40, and the Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Merlot 2000 Unfiltered, +981142, $36: both wines seem to be a bit light, with the Peller being marginally preferred due to lack of filtering. The essence of merlot has been captured, with that softness on the finish. I have no idea why the Peller is less expensive, especially since the other releases (see next entries) are equally priced. The Glenlake Vineyard is known for its older, lower yielding vines...All wines noted here are only available at the Hillebrand or Peller wineries, although they can be ordered through their wine stores, Vineyards... * Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Franc 2000 Glenlake, +994582, $38, and the Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Cabernet Franc 2000 Unfiltered, +981134, $38: Glenlake has been aged in 85% US oak, 15% French, while the Peller has been treated half and half. The Glenlake is minimally filtered, while the Peller is unfiltered. Dill seems to turn up in the Glenlake, while the Peller has some green bell pepper. The Glenlake seems to have a broader chocolate component near the finish. Otherwise, both are quite similar. * Hillebrand Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Glenlake, +994566, $40, and the Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Unfiltered, +981126, $40: continuing with our minitasting -- both were essentially treated the same, except the Glenlake got some minimal filtering. Perhaps more cedar and oak in the Peller. Both Peller and Glenlake were made by different winemakers from the same company. * Fonseca Terras Altas Red 1999 Dao, +010892 General, $7.95: offers remarkable value in a fruit-forward Portuguese wine at this price level, with a little bit of everything (herbs, black fruit, wood) in the balance. * Casa Girelli Terriero Grecanico-Inzolia 2001, +612697 General, $8.95: an engaging white from Sicily, 60% grecanico (a useful general grape) and 40% inzolia (a citric but fruity grape, full of flavours). * Casa Girelli Terriero Primitivo Sangiovese 2001, +612689 General, $9.45: from Puglia at 13% alcohol, although the notes say 60% sangiovese and 40% primitivo -- not the reverse as suggested by the label's name. Nevertheless, expect the deep chunky cocoa of the primitivo to be smoothed by the crisp sour cherries of the sangiovese. * Etchart Rio de Plata Merlot 2001, Mendoza Argentina, +515890 General, $9.15, is a new vintage, showing its consistency with intense nose, followed by rounded, smooth flavours, especially in the finish. * Thomas & Vaughan Cabernet Franc 2000 Niagara, $17.95 Winery, 13%, more in the black fruit arena, developing nicely with oak-driven spices. Needs cellaring. Only 125 cases produced. * Thomas & Vaughan Meritage 2000 Niagara, +992503 Winery, $24.95, a blend of 40% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon, and 20% cabernet franc, is more rooted in red fruit tones, with some chocolate and cedar character. Should age nicely, but needs a half dozen more years to resolve the taut tannins. * Dourthe Freres Chateau Clos de la Tour 2001 Bordeaux, +264986 General, $13: a straight-forward Bordeaux, about 60% merlot, fruit-forward in a North American style of softness, as profiled by their consulting winemaker, Michel Rolland. * Louis Bernard Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2001, +391458 General, $12.95: variously described as having both red and black fruit tones (grenache, syrah, mourvedre), with elements of leafiness and underbrush. Very good at this price level. * Louis Bernard Gigondas 1999 Rhone, +391482 General, $19.20: a blend of grenache and syrah, a bit on the red fruit and plum side, very good length, a useful addition to the high end reds on General List. * Malivoire Riesling Icewine 2001, +591321 Vintages June 7, $36 for 200 mL: from the Misek Vineyard, lovely riesling mineral tones, exceptionally long citric-apple finish. Affordable quantity in this size bottle. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MARCH, 2003 ====================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2003 -- The Society for American Wines, in conjunction with Peter Mielzynski Agencies, put on a winemaker's dinner with Oregon's Sokol Blosser Winery. It was held at Spago, an up-and- coming venue for many wine clubs and fine diners, just north of High Park on Bloor. On display were mainly Pinot Noirs with Mediterranean foods...Sokol Blosser began in 1971 with the purchase of 18 acres; it began selling wine in 1977. It now has 80 acres, most of it leaning to an organic environment. Within three years, the winery expects to have its certification. It now produces only one red, pinot gris, and "Evolution", a 30,000-case blend of nine white grapes (mostly Muller-Thurgau, Semillon, Pinot Gris, and White Riesling). It is a bracing sipper, with slight variations from year to year depending on the quality of the diverse grapes. Some of the grapes -- like the muscat canelli -- come from outof state; thus, the wine has an "American" appellation. The sixth edition, which we had as a pre-dinner reception sipper, was supple, smooth on the palate, lots of generous fruit, with a muscat nose and a hit of gewurztraminer. The proportions for the seventh edition changed enough to be noticeable, primarily in the higher acid finish. We had a sample of this later edition with our first course, butternut squash soup. A great accompaniment. Evolution will be at the LCBO this summer, retailing at $24.95 (it's $15US at the winery). Alex Sokol Blosser was here for the dinner, as well as the trade show the next day. He spoke to the wines. With dinner, we tried the Sokol Blosser Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2000 ($49.95), and two of the winery's three single vineyard pinots, which now sell for $120 a bottle. These were the 1999 Watershed Block Pinot and the 1999 Old Vineyard Block Pinot. Missing was the 1999 Twelve Row Block Pinot, principally because the winery only makes 100 cases a year. The other two vineyards, also on allocation, had a production of 200 cases each. We had a warm mixed mushroom salad with spcied carrots, arugula, parmesan, and a light balsamic-acacia vinaigrette. The Willamette (5500 cases) showed very well despite the weakness of the general vintage (no single blocks were made that year; those vineyards were folded into the Willamette) -- it was a nice foil to the vinaigrette and mushrooms. With the two blocks came an osso bucco with risotto. The two pinots still need time, but their power was apparent. The Old block, because it was older, had more depth and intensity reflecting the oxidixed red soil. All the pinots were 13.5% alcohol, and balanced by the Evolution's consistent 11.5%. With dessert (chocolate souffle and freshly made ice cream) came some hidden treasures from the Society's winecellars: a 1990 Vidal cryogenic "Ice Wine" from Hunt Country in the Finger Lakes (still drinkable, with smoothed out sweetness, but a dark colour) and a 1990 Late Harvest Vignoles from Cayuga Lake's Swedish Hill. Alex, in his descriptions of the wines, was a great speaker: loud voice, good anecdotes, and some sense in his narrative. The winery is focused on Pinot Noir, they use French oak, and they have just built a 900 barrel aging cellar. For more details on any of these wines, call PMA at 905-820-4117 or email Todd MacDonald WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 2002 -- The midday Oregon Pinot Festival came to town at the St. Lawrence Hall. Previous versions of Pacific Northwest trade wine shows in Toronto, usually at the end of February, also included Washington and Idaho states. But this time, Oregon is going it alone. There are over 200 wineries in the state, using at least 26 different varietals. The emphasis here was on "pinot" -- the pinot noir and the pinot gris (a proven white relative to the noir). According to the program, there was one chardonnay, one merlot, one riesling, one gewurztraminer, and one pinot blanc to be sampled from among the 12 wineries and fifty wines, And what really emphasized the close-knit friendly structure of the Oregon wine industry was Mark Vlassok of St.Innocent Winery taking the time to prepare the menu and the food!! He offered us roast lamb, bean and sausage ragout, and hot smoked salmon. And as usual, therre were assorted cheeses and breads...It was a more relaxed -- and smaller -- show than in other years, of course. I did the walkabout, but I did not taste every wine. Here are some notes on my favourites of the day: * Amity 1998 Winemakers Reserve Pinot Noir, which will be available through Vintages sometime, showed intense complexity and enormous depth, plus some initial smoke. Their 2000 Schouten Single Vineyard ($47.75) was also exceptional. Details through * Evesham Wood 2001 Pinot Gris Le Puits Sec is certified organic; it showed intense fruit flavours for a gris. There is also a comparable Pinot Noir. Details through * Halloran Pinot Noir Le Pavillon 1999, $49.95 through WineWorld 416-487-7147, was deep and delicious, more powerful than its price would warrant. * Panther Creek 2000 Freedom Hill Pinot Noir was the best of a quartet, which also featured their 1999 Shea Vineyard, 2000 Youngberg Hill, and the 2000 Winemakers's Cuvee. Diamond Estates 416-488-4922 * Sokol Blosser 2001 Pinot Gris was fresh and inviting, with a longish finish. PMA 905-820-4117 * St.Innocent 2000 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard (+949271, $42.30) will be joined by Seven Springs (+936229, $49.85) and Freedom Hill (+703678, $52.70) in the April Vintages release. Details through * Westrey 2000 Pinot Noir Melrose (+942427, $33.85) comes out in May through Vintages; it was one of the more affordable pinots in the show. Details through MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 -- A sub-section of the Canadian California Wine Tour blew into town, on one of the warmest days of the current year -- to the Park Hyatt. This was the Napa Valley Vintners 2003 Tour (also in Montreal), and it was in three parts: a luncheon, a seminar, and a walkaround trade show. There was no consumer component this year. The midday seminar was entitled "A Lesson in Soil and Vineyard Diversity:, with vintners from Robert Mondavi (Clay Gregory), Clos du Val (David B. Campbell), and Chateau Montelena (Greg Ralston). They all lead a comparative tasting of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Discussion focused on the diversity of soils found within a single or differing vineyards and how that diversity impacts the final product. Each speaker introduced and talked about the other guy's wine, which I thought was a great idea..Napa is still replanting (since the 1980s) with rootstock that is phylloxera-resistant...Cakebread's Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (just bottled) went head-to-head with Mondavi's Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (tank sample). The Cakebread had some semillon in the blend, came from the west side of the valley (warmer climate), and produced a round, full, off- dry on the palate sipper. Mondavi, from the east side's Stags Leap District (cooler), was 100% varietal, and featured longer acid finish. Still green from the tank, but will ultimately show better with food. Mondavi also contributed a 1995 Stag's Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon (100%, cooler climate) and a 1995 Oakville District Cab (with 5% Merlot added). Th latter had better structure, more roundness, and more fruit. Sip or food. Chateau Montelena 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon (100%) was presented as an "alluvial sample" (French-style, olives, pepper, cassis, long finish, needs food) and as a "sedimentary sample" (ripe, full, fleshy, mid-palate of fruit, sip or food). This seminar was well-organized; it even had prizes for correct guesses. MONDAY, MARCH 17, 2003 -- The Napa Valley Vintners Association showed its mid-range products to the trade at the Park Hyatt this afternoon. Two dozen wineries here were already repped by an Ontario agent (only Napa Wine Company was not), so there are plenty of bottles available for future ordering, albeit from different vintages....best to check with the agent. Paula Oreskovich, the super-energetic organizer, can put you in touch with the appropriate person. As always, I did not taste every wine in the walkabout...Nor did I get to taste some limited supply reds since I began tasting the whites first (stupid me!)...Here are some quick recommendations, with incomplete data: * Beringer 1997 Zinfandel North Coast (agent: Philippe Dandurand) showed smokey and off-dry on the palate. * Cain Five 1994 (for the show only), 1999 tasted, 1998 coming in May (Rogers) * Cakebread Cellars 2001 Chardonnay (Lifford) was round, firm but juicy. * Chateau Montelena 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (Rogers) had depth and structure while the 1999 was smooth, ready sooner. * Clos du Val 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon (Authentic) had aged well, ready now. * Cuvaison 2000 Chardonnay Estate, with 16 months in oak, $48 CDN (Prevedello & Mathews) was well-worth the price tag...The 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon showed excellent depth. * Duckhorn 2000 Merlot (Rogers) had the depth of a cabernet with a merlot finish * Markham 2000 Merlot (Prevedello & Mathews) was soft and fruity * Rutherford Hill 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon (Prevedello & Mathews) showed firmness, while the 2000 Merlot was a tad soft. * Shafer 2000 Merlot (Rogers) was a bit light for the vintage, but the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon was spot on. * Stonegate Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Reserve Diamond Mountain (Lifford) was a 50-50 blend, and it was fabulous. I thought it was the best red I tasted that afternoon, with bags of extract, fruit and depth. * Viader 2000 Cabernet Blend (EPNA) is 63% cabernet sauvignon and 37 cabernet franc, yet it was soft, fruity, and a sipper. Succulent. TUESDAY, MARCH 18, 2003 -- The Ontario Wine Society presented, to a sellout crowd, its second annual Canadian Wine Awards tasting, at Tasting Rooms. The CWA are organized by Wine Access magazine. Over 600 wines were submitted from across Canada (up 20% from 2001). The judging was held in BC last August, with the results released in Fall 2002. David Lawrason, editor, was at the tasting, and he talked about the nine gold medal winners we tasted. All of the wines were the top wines in their categories. Some winemakers and reps were along to supplement David's notes, such people as Jim Warren (Niagara College) and Herbert Konzelmann and Bruce Walker (Jackson-Triggs and Sumac Ridge). Vincor had 5 of the 9 wines here. I had to leave for a concert, so I was only able to taste the table wines. I also missed the food portion (which was to be evaluated against the wines); apparently, there were some good cheddar-smoked ham pastries, Angus steak, and cranberry crumble. Here are some wines notes (most of the wines are sold out for a particular vintage, but a later year will be available) : * Sumac Ridge 1998 Steller's Jay Brut, Okanagan Valley, $21.95: appley nose, some yeast complexity, off-dry finish. * Creekside 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara, $17.95: herby, quite a nice snap in the New Zealand fashion (it would have easily won last month's OWS sauvignon blanc shootout). Good cool climate version, some fruit on the mid-palate. Long length makes it a definite food wine... * Niagara College 2001 Chardonnay, Niagara, $14: winner of the white wine of the year award, so what more could I say? some woody and butterscotch tones on the nose need time to resolve; full, unctuous palate with lots of fruit and body, good integration of oak and pear tones on the finish. * Chateau des Charmes 2000 Gewurztraminer St.David's Bench, Niagara, $14.95: some candy on the nose, more a late harvest version of gewurztraminer, low acid finish. * Sumac Ridge 1999 Merlot Blacksage Vineyard, Okanagan, $14.95: some caramel on the nose, sweet tones; medium weight on the palate, good black fruit, and with a surprisingly long finish. Should be good with food. * Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2000 Shiraz Proprietor's Reserve, Okanagan, $16.95: sweet fruity nose but muted later, bags of tannins and extract in a shiraz mode, finishes dry. Needs time. * Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2000 Red Mertitage Private Reserve, Okanagan, $19.95: tight nose opened up later, light flavours on the palate but filling. Modest finish, but could shine with food. This description suggests a dumb character in the wine, at least right now. * Konzelmann 2000 Vidal Icewine, Niagara, $44.95 halves: not tried, sorry. * Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2001 Riesling Icewine Proprietor's Reserve, Okanagan, $52.95 halves: not tried, sorry. MONDAY, MARCH 24, 2003 -- The annual gigantiuc California Wine Fair arrives April 14. For quite some time, the wine media has had the opportunity of a preview tasting. These are all blind -- we know the varietal and the sequence is in order of retail price. There are supposed to be 350 (!) wines in April; 70 were presented to us here -- 10 chardonnays, 8 pinot noirs, 8 syrah/shiraz, 10 zinfandels, 20 cabernet sauvignons, and a few others. For the first time, there was no flight of merlot. And there used to be a flight of sauvignon blanc. Could this be a marketing shift in Canada? The tasting was held at Bouchon Bistro, normally closed on Mondays, and they served us a light lunch that was exemplary...Here are some of my favourites, and since we had a "show of hands", I can say that most of these were also favourites of other writers: * Nichols Winery Chardonnay 1999 Edna Ranch ($56, consignment May 2003) showed toast and oak, full and voluptuous, sip or food (good length). * Shafer Chardonnay 2001 Red Shoulder Ranch ($49.95, consignment March 2003; Rogers): lime, depth, character, good integration. * R.H.Phillips Chardonnay 2001 Toasted Head ($21.25, Vintages 2003; Atlas): typical modal varietal character (MVC), good body, light fragrance, smokey and brown sugar hits, a bit lean in the finish. * Cline Cellars Syrah 2000 ($18.50, Vintages Summer 2003; Torion): syrah nose and body, with developing flavours, long, long length, good followthrough. * Rodney Strong Zinfandel 2000 Knotty Vines ($26.20, consignment; Mark Anthony): good wood, firm, well-aged, MVC, some vanilla on the nose, needs food. * Rosemblum Cellars Zinfandel 2001 Dry Creek ($37.80, Vintages TBA; Barrique): well-crafted, a bit off-dry but still engaging.. * Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Napa ($44.95, Vintages; Maxxium): juicy upfront character but with a tannic finish, needs food. * Ironstone Meritage 1999 Sierra Foothills Reserve ($66.50, consignment; Lifford): all round integration of wood-fruit-acid, some raisins on nose. * De Loach Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($19.95, consignment May 2002; Barrique): some age showing on the nose, but good MVC at this price level, some herbal snap. * Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa ($35, Vintages; Torion): good depth to the finish, softer fruit, some juiciness. * Murphy Goode Estates Alexander Valley 2000 ($39.20, Consignment; The Vine): sweet vanilla nose and fruity followthrough makes this an ideal sipper. * Justin Isosceles 2000 ($98, consignment; The Vine): brilliant nose, with some raisins right through to mid-palate. For details on the California Wine Fair, contact super-energetic Paula Oreskovich TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2003 -- Lots on today, so I passed on two events and took in three others. The first was for a tasting of Champy wines. Maison Champy is Burgundy's oldest negociant, and it was taken over by the Meurgey family in 1990. Changes in viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are bearing fruit, so to speak. New barrels, stainless steel, late bottling, new plantings, strict control over everything, clean. We tasted eight wines at the SOPEXA head office in Toronto. H.H.D. Imports is the Ontario agent or * Saint Aubin 1er Cru "Murgers des Dents de Chien" 2000 (+704155, Vintages, $39.95): lime nose, hot palate, lingering finish, stylish and elegant. * Puligny Montrachet "Les Enseigneres" 2000 (+716753, Classics June 3, $74): much more of a yummy character, light toast on the nose, hot palate again, higher acid finish, needs food. * Chassagne Montrachet "Morgeot" 2000 (+716720, Classics June 3, $95): reticent nose, clean elegance, fruit on palate, finishes with length. * Corton Charlemagne 2000 (+716154, Classics June 3, $125): light nose, slight limes on palate, crystal clear finish. Hazelnuts. * Savigny Les Beaune "Bas Liards" 2000 ($36): fresh, a bit grapey pinot noir, tannic and taut finish. * Beaune 1er Cru "Aux Cras" 2000 ($50): black fruit dominates, good value in pricing, long depth. Dark colour reflects the concentration levels. * Beaune Vieilles Vignes 2000 (+726406 for the 1999 in Vintages, $30.85): intense fruit, long depth, bags of extract, nice price if the 2000 comes in at $30.85... * Nuits Saint Georges 2000 ($52): peppery, pinot noir consistency, develops well, black fruit, engaging. More extract than the Beaunes. TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2003 -- A race against time to make a lunch at Casa Barcelona, half the city away...Bodegas Martinez Bujanda Group, one of the most progressive wineries in Spain, hosted a tasting through its Ontario agent, Lacey Cellars Since the restaurant specializes in tapas, we had a huge assortment throughout the tasting to allow us all to compare wines and foods. The only tapas that didn't work was the hot sausage, for obvious reasons. We sampled croquettes, chicken cutlets, beef tenderloin, various styles of potatoes and canneloni, beans, peppers, etc. Diego Martinez, formerly based in Rioja and who is now heading the Finca Antigua project, conducted the tasting...The project is a new winery in La Mancha, where land is relatively cheap. In Castilla-La Mancha (the largest wine-growing region in the world!), the Martinez Bujanda family has created winery with 446 hectares of vineyards (almost 300 Ha have been planted already). They are concentrating on cabernet sauvignon, tempranillo, merlot, and syrah, with six months aging in new US oak...Here are some notes from the tasting, which was of the Finca Antigua plus Riojas at the LCBO: * Candidato Oro 1998, +523811 General, $7.95, is 85% tempranillo and 15% garnacha, aged one year in oak, good aperitif sipper. * Tempranillo 2001 Finca Antigua, about $11.95 soon: heavy and fruity, intense cherries, elegant, slight wood aging. Good value. * Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Finca Antigua, about $11.95 soon: good MVC, food friendly cab for restaurants. * Crianza 2000 Finca Antigua, about $13.95 soon: 65% tempranillo, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 14 months in new French and US oak, a real stunner of intense fruit, wood nuances and tannins. Great with food, best such wine I've had in a while. Lingering finish. * Conde de Valdemar Rioja Crianza 1999, +356089 General, $13.95: aged a bit, good value Rioja of 85% tempranillo and 15% garnacha. * Conde de Valdemar Rioja Riserva 1997, $18.95 at Vintages, sold out but coming back as a Vintages Essentials in August: another good value in a Rioja, made in a US barrel oaked style. * Finca Valpiedra Single Estate 1997 Reserva Rioja, +959049 Vintages, $29.75: best wine of the tasting, 90% tempranillo, with some cabernet sauvignon. Well-aged, with dried fruit on the palate. Shows plenty of life. For more details on availability, call Lacey Cellars at 416-690-2557. TUESDAY, MARCH 24, 2003 -- Off to a book launch in the evening...It was Byron Ayanoglu's CRETE ON THE HALF-SHELL; a story about an island, good friends and food, 268 pages ($34.95 or less at most bookstores). HarperFlamingo is the imprint, and Avli Restaurant on the Danforth was the location. Publisher HarperCollins' Yvonne Hunter and Felicia Quon hosted the event. I cannot resist the phrase "My Big Fat Greek (Crete) Book"... All the fingerfood came from the restaurant, typical Greek fare, and the wines were from Vergina...I was lucky enough to arrive early, and headed straight for the bar. Why? Well, for two days before, Ayanoglu and Chef Lambrinos Vassiliou had cooked up a "Halcyon Feast" in honour of Greek Independence Day. There were mezedes, of course, plus eight following courses. Wines included Chateau Lazaridi White, Red and its Merlot, Spiropoulos Rose, Makednos White, Domaine Hatzimichalis Chardonnay and its Cabernet Sauvignon, Makedon White, and Commandaria St.John. The bar was pouring leftover reds from the dinner (which I had missed), so here was an opportunity to do a mini- tasting...what a treat! The vintages were mostly 1999..The Hatzimichalis Cabernet is at the LCBO (+538074), and showed very well the next day. Indeed, all the wines performed well 24 hours later, after simply being re-corked and exposed to just the air in the bottle. But enough on wine, the event was for food-writer and chef Byron, who broke a lot of hearts in his NOW restaurant reviews many years back. The book details adventures, personal memoirs, and descriptions of food and drink in the wilds of Crete -- where people live longer due to eating wild greens and olive oil. One for the armchair traveler. Byron read excerpts, made some thank yous, autographed many copies, and we all generally had a good time. The weather (and the location) was warm, the room was packed and stifling, and I could have killed the two smokers.... RECENTLY SAMPLED PRODUCTS (variety of sources) ========================= * Little Boomey Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, New South Wales (Orange, Central Ranges), +627141 General, $13.95: well, here's a "big boom"! black fruit and sweet burnt nose from the oak (50-50 French and US), leading to softness near the finish. Smooth. Good sipper. * Domaine Monteillet Saint-Joseph Cuvee du Papy 2000, Rhone, +729806 Classics, $39: excellent syrah hit, and terrific body for a Saint-Joseph. Quite tasty. * Paul Osicka Shiraz 2000, Victoria Australia, +963959 Classics, $30: dense and chunky, 14%, lots of woodiness. * Hewitson Shiraz 2000, Barossa, +983791 Classics, $39: fruit-driven, 13.5%, needs food. * Saintsbury Chardonnay Reserve 2000, Carneros, +963777 Classics, $49: good wood on the palate, superb tang of butter-fruit-vanilla, long finish. * Hernder Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1999, Niagara, +572396 Classics, $30: voluptuous from its nose through to its legs, slightly off-dry finish. * St.Hallett Old Block Shiraz 1999, South Australia, +728477 Classics, $49: 14% alcohol, very warm and inviting, full of fruit and flavour, needs another year at least. * Primo Estate Joseph Moda Amarone Cabernet/Merlot, South Australia, +745331 Classics, $48: high alcohol -- 14.5% -- and high fruit, bags of extract and body. Made in the style of amarone (moda amarone). * Stone Cellars (Beringer) Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, California, +606798 General, $13.95: an exceedingly generous wine, approachable, restaurant ready. 13% alc. * Bodegas Palacio Vina Portil Rioja 2000, +636936 General, $12.95: basic rioja but with generous dried fruit from 100% tempranillo. * Tribal Sauvignon Blanc/Colombard 2002 South Africa, +623694 General, $6.95: probably the cheapest good herbaceous hit in Ontario... * Lakeview Cellars Gewurztraminer 2000, +535625 General, $11.95: good price for a MVC gewurztraminer in Ontario. My LCBO lab sample showed a tad of aging on the finish. * Chateau Grand Renom Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc 2000, +619858 General, $11.25: all sauvignon blanc with some oaking, good typical MVC * Cabarita Semillon Chardonnay 1998 Australia, +598995 General, $9.75: has to be the best buy in white wine at the LCBO. Fruit comes from Clare and Barossa, very tasty, long finish, semillon MVC comes through. Well-aged, ready now (5 years old), good value. I have no idea how much 1998 there is in the sytem, but I bought a case of 1998 for my own use (put my money where my mouth is, etc.) * Stone Cellars (Beringer) Chardonnay 2001 California, +606806 General, $13.95: like the cabernet, fruit-driven forwardness and MVC, great for restaurants. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR FEBRUARY 2003 ======================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2003 -- The annual Wine Writers' Circle of Canada pre-Cuvee tasting again went off well at Tasting Rooms. Originally, 180 Ontario VQA wines from some 41 wineries were to have been tasted, but 20 were rejected by the Wine Council of Ontario at a pre-pre-tasting to check for Lady Bug Taint (LBT) -- all from the 2001 vintage, obviously. Shortages accounted for the non-show of other wines. Some were just pulled... About 110 wines turned up: red and white table wines, sparklers, and sweeties. Usually we taste the latter two categories on Sunday, splitting up the tasting chores over two days. But since there were under 110, we decided to sample them all on the one day...There were only 18 wines from the 2001 harvest; some of these had LBT, and one was corked. A pathetic showing. To substitute for these, there were some 2002 tank samples as well as many 2000 white wines. The 2002 tank samples were very generous in flavours, but they are not yet ready to be bottled or sold, so while I took copious notes, I did not write them up here.... Overall, the high end chardonnays were the most successful wines, those about $30 or so. To note: very few hybrids, just baco noir (and an old vines foch) in the reds and vidal in the icewines; no Late Harvest, Select LH, or Special SLH (just one from Thirty Bench) wines showed up; and no wines here were made from pinot noir -- except some sparklers (!)... Here are some general notes on my favourites: * Cave Spring Chardonnay CSV 2000, $35 at winery: delicious, with depth and development. Crisp style. * Cave Spring Cabernet/Merlot 1999, $18.95 Vintages +316943: fruit forward and wood balance, long clean finish, good aging. Good buy... * Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon St. David's Bench 1999, $24.95 at Vintages in April 2003 +453423: smooth all over, good balance between fruit- acid-wood. Ready now. * Chateau des Charmes Silver Label Cabernet 2000, $9.95 General +1000751: fresh fruit and herby, good value for under $10. * Colio Estate Cabernet Franc 2000, $19.95 at winery: good cab. franc herb hit. * Creekside Estate Chardonnay Signature Series 2000, $30 at winery: more good depth and development, stylish. * Daniel Lenko Meritage 1999, $29.95 at winery: really coming into its own at this point, delicious fruit and long length. * Featherstone Estate Gemstone Red 2001, $9.95 at winery: baco noir 85% and cabernet sauvignon 15%, smooth quaffer. Good price. * Henry of Pelham Cabernet Merlot Unfiltered 1999, $24.95 Vintages +395855: with 6% cabernet franc, this is really a "bordeaux" or meritage styled wine A bit austere at this point, needs more time. * Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2000, $21.95 at Vintages +461699: with some merlot (15%) added, deep complexity, great flavours, fair price. * Kacaba Meritage 2000, $26 at winery: 70% cabernet franc, 5% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon. Showed some good depth without the herby character. * Kacaba Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $22 at winery: juicy, ready now. * Lakeview Chardonnay Reserve Vinc Vineyard 2000, $29.95 at winery: barrel fermentation with batonage makes this a great, complex wine. Delicious. * Malivoire Chardonnay Moira Vineyard 2000, $36 Vintages +573154: one of the best chardonnays on display today. * Marynissen Estates Cabernet Merlot 2000, $12.95 at winery: half cabernet sauvignon, balance split between merlot and cabernet franc. One of the best values at under $13, lots of juicy fruit. * Marynissen Estates Chardonnay Barrel Fermented "F" 2001, $18.95 at winery: balance showing well, pretty good stuff for the price. * Pelee Island Cabernet Franc 1997, $21.95 at winery: it pays to hold wines back for a later release. Nicely aged with delicious fruit in the length. * Pelee Island Trio Red 2000, $9.95 General +612465: equal parts zweigelt, gamay, and cabernet sauvignon. An excellent fruity quaffer, affordable price. * Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 1999, $50 at winery: from 22 year old vines, mostly barrel fermented and aged in French oak (25% aged sur lie in stainless steel). Unctuous, with an off-dry palate. * Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot 1999, $39.95 at winery: a triumph, solidly knit bordeaux-style with a 50CS-40CF-10M spread. * Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 1999, $19.95 at winery: fermented and aged in new French oak for 13 months, 10 months on the lees. A great price for a value wine with some chardonnay style. The 2000 vintage, also treated the same way and for the same price, is a tad softer in the finish. Sip the 2000 and eat with the 1999. * Stoney Ridge Bench Cabernet Franc 2000, $11.95 General +525691: about 4% cabernet sauvignon added, barrel aged. Some chocolate tones from aging. * Strewn Gewurztraminer 2000, $ 14.95 at winery: with three days skin contact, great flavours, thick body feel. Longish finish. A winner in the gewurztraminer category.. * Thirty Bench Benchmark Reif Vineyard Chardonnay 1999, $25 at winery: another good chardonnay example, with 18 months in barrel and a bit more body than others. * Thomas and Vaughan Vintners Chardonnay Estate Reserve 2000, $24.95 at winery: over 12 months in French oak, butter and toast tones. * Thomas and Vaughan Vintners Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve 1999, $ 37.95 at winery: two years in US oak ! lots of wood, needs time to resolve. * Willow Heights Chardonnay Reserve Stefanik Vineyard 1999, $24.95 at winery: hand-picked grapes, whole berry pressed, barrel-fermented and aged sur lie in new French and US oak -- good character, long on the palate. * Willow Heights Tresette Reserve 1999, $24.95 at Vintages: two-thirds cabernet sauvignon, one-quarter franc, and ten percent merlot, with a year in US oak. Good price and value, ready next year. Even though many of these wines are only available at the winery, you can actually buy any quanity of the wines you want and have them delivered right to the door simply by going to ...This is a great -- and affordable -- delivery service for consumers. Not all wineries are available, but of those listed above, you should be able to order wines from Cave Spring Cellars, Chateau des Charmes, Creekside Estate, Henry of Pelham, Lakeview Cellars, Peninsula Ridge, Strewn, Thomas and Vaughan, and Thirty Bench. Other wineries will probably sign up later. About $12 a case delivery charge. Mix and match cases are possible...The website also has sources for winery newsletters, futures, specials, upcoming events, wine provenance notes and wine usage notes. For more details, check out the site or ... MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2003 -- Lloyd Evans and Terry Milne of The Case for Wine introduced to the local wine press the three growers who created Vins de Vienne, a top Rhone negociant...Pierre Gaillard, Yves Cuilleron and Francois Villard had just come back from tasting wines in the Niagara Pensinula; they were impressed. They had also travelled to New Zealand, and tasted quite a few good wines there. They apparently are open to other styles of wine, and view tastings beyond the French border as a great learning experience. Here, at a superb luncheon at Pallucci Restaurant on Mount Pleasant Road, we sampled an even dozen wines, with the tasting preceding lunch (calmari, wild mushrooms, Australian lamb). Two whites from 2001, and ten reds from 2000, half from the North Rhone and half from the South Rhone..There may even be a mixed Rhone Discovery case in mind for the future...All wines come in six bottle cases. Some notes: * Saint Peray, Les Bialeres 2001, $36 bottle: open nose of bananas, anise, earthy but delicious tang on palate, long length. Wood on the finish. 80% marsanne, 20% roussane. Good value. * Condrieu, La Chambee 2001, $62: aromatic nose with broad sweet oak, fullish body, some citrus on the finish. A big wine at a big price... * Cotes du Rhone, Les Cranilles 2000, $31: stylish but light nose, full flavours but neither syrah nor grenache initially, long length, still needs time. Tight, a bit fruit shy. Opens fine later with some grenache coming out. * Cairanne, La Perendaille 2000, $37: a Cotes du Rhone Village, about 45% grenache, 20% syrah, 20% mourvedre, rest carignan..14.5% alcohol, with a more ripe nose than the Cranilles, but even slower to open up. But ripe and big, off-dry fruit on mid-palate. Close to North American style, but not syrah dominated. Great finish, good value. * Vacqueyras, La Sillote 2000, $38: some papery complexity from the grenache, more in a French style than the Cairanne. Anise and jam. Ready soon, but still a bit tart. * Gigondas, Les Pimpignoles 2000, $51: great nose, blackberries and anise, sweet mid-palate, still needs time. * Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Oteliees 2000, $63: ripe nose, lots of syrah, great finish, fruit on mid-palate, softer finish. Ready sooner? Deep dark blackberries; North Aerican style? 14% alcohol. * Crozes-Hermitage, Les Palignons 2000, $43: great syrah kicker finish, still needs plenty of time. Tight but elegant, strictly a food wine. 13% alcohol, one of my favourite wines of the tasting. * Saint-Joseph, L'Arzelle 2000, $42: some veggie component on the nose, not as massive as the Crozes but a bit off-dry and jammy in the mid-palate, smooth and ready now. * Cornas, Les Barcillants 2000, $57: tight nose, but fruity mid-palate, French syrah blackberries, some concentration on the finish, but a medium length. Not the typical "rusticity"... * Hermitage, Les Chirats de Saint Christophe 2000, $75: soft nose, good fruit on the palate, very jammy but no bacon. Ready soon, with its long lingering finish. 13.5% alcohol. * Cote Rotie, Les Essartailles 2000, $71: nose of smoke and bacon, spice and evolution, long finish, some tannins to be resolved on the finish. Good balance but will continue to evolve. Best wine of the lunch. The Case for Wine specializes in Consignment and Private Orders; hence the name embodies the word "case". Their other company -- Vins Passion -- works with listings in the Vintages/Classics operation. For more details on Vins de Vienne, contact 416-482-0241 or TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 18, 2003 -- The monthly tasting of the Ontario Wine Society (held at Tasting Rooms, 6:15 PM) featured the Sauvignon Blanc varietal. The members at this sold-out event sampled their way through ten strong examples of the grape. Professor Emeritus (Ryerson) Hrayr Berberoglu conducted the tasting semi-blind (we knew which wines we had but not the order). "Our goal with this change in format is to receive an honest opinion as to which is the best Sauvignon Blanc of the evening". As always, Tasting Rooms came up with with a good sampler plate featuring smoked salmon, shrimp, chicken, spring roll. I took my modal varietal character (MVC) for sauvignon blanc, i.e., this is what a typical sauvignon blanc SHOULD taste like, and applied it against the glasses, venturing a few guesses. I picked out the French, and the South African and New Zealand (but could not tell these two apart), and the Australian and the Californian (but could not tell these two apart, either). Also, the New Zealand, French and South African wines were different labels from the original announcement in the program flyer. In addition, I preferred the even-numbered glasses over the odd-numbered. The even ones were the imports. My overall fave was the Graham Beck Coastal 2002 from South Africa (herby nose, good body, long finish, not overpowering, good alone or with food); this was also the groups's favourite. My second place went to Yalumba Oxford Landing 2001 from Australia (rich, a bit off-dry on the nose, smooth palate, some anise, long, long finish, a sipper). Third was the Sancerre Les Baron Henri Bourgeouis 2001 (classic muted herbs and lemons on the nose, good balance of fruit and acid and grass on the palate, finish suggests food is needed). Fourth was Buena Vista 2000 from California (light, evolving, a bit off-dry, straight-forward sipper). Fifth was Siefried 2002 from New Zealand (overthetop assertive grass on the nose, a bit thin in body, tart and shrill on the palate, desperate for food...). The rest of the Sauvignon Blancs? Mission Hill Private Reserve 2001 was earthy, and took a long time to evolve and come around; it was number six. Each one of the Ontario entries seemed flawed in some way, and they did not show well. The Southbrook Triomphe 2000 was corked in one, maybe two instances. In another bottle -- the one I had -- it had a strong perfumed character, not unpleasant, but certainly not typical of sauvignon blanc. The Henry of Pelham 2002, bottled just two days earlier, was a substitution for the flawed 2001 (which exhibited ladybug taint in the previous times I had the 2001); it suffered from bottle shock. Its veggie character was pronounced, but this will soften with time. I ranked it seventh. The Chateau des Charmes 2001 was stale, perhaps incipient corkiness? The Lailey Vineyards 2001 had loose corks, and the wine was oxidizing. All of this was very unfortunate for the Ontario representatives...perhaps another showdown soon? Still, such nights as these are educational and informative. Professor B. told us more than we already knew about sauvignon blanc, and the defects were analyzed. For more details about the Ontario Wine Society, call 416-921-9798. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 25, 2003 -- Some award-winning Fuller beers were launched at the home of the British Consul-General in Toronto. Richard Fuller, Sales Director, poured samples and talked about "London Pride", "ESB" and "London Porter" (unfortunately, Air Canada has lost some samples, especially of London Porter). Draughts are here now, and local agents Premier Brands, are making the rounds of pubs. Check with Jeff Dafoe 905-855-0086 or on availability and prices. Bottles will soon be available through the LCBO. London Pride (a "Supreme Champion") will be here in April, followed by ESB (no single beer has won more CAMRA awards than Fuller's ESB) in September, and London Porter in January, 2004 [maybe it takes that long for Air Canada to find it??] -- all in half-litre bottles. Great nibbles were also served, including spring rolls of haggis, sausages, curried chicken, and the like...My favourite was the ESB, with its nose of buckwheat honey... WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2003 -- Another heavy-duty day with Consignment and General List samples in the AM, followed by Piedmont wines in the PM. The AM scene was the LCBO Tasting Lab B for a special purpose review of General Listed South African red wines, ranging in price from $8.45 through $14.25, and featuring blends of pinotage, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and shiraz. Here some notes on my favourites of the AM: * KWV Roodeberg 2000, $11.95, +007187, one of the oldest listings in Ontario, with a beefed up cabernet sauvignon component in the blend. Good length. * Hippo Creek Merlot 2000, $9.80, +582320, soft fruit, a quality sipper * Capelands Merlot 2001, $10, +345231, 14% alcohol, smooth but full finish, needs food. * KWV Merlot 2001, $10.95, +460774, 14% alcohol, more "oak" component than the Capelands, and good value at this price level. * Two Oceans Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2001, $8.95, +340398, a value wine with firm, good textured body, longish length, with food. * Sinnya Valley Merlot/Cabernet 2001, $9.70, +459875, 13% alcohol, good character in the finish, black fruit all the way. * Ruitersvlei Riders Valley Shiraz/Merlot 2001, $13.95, +576132, 13.5% alcohol, dark and inky, shiraz component is strong but softened by the merlot. Sip or food. * KWV Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $10.95, +022004, 14% alcohol, chocolate tones, black fruit, good centre and length, with food. * Cape Indaba Shiraz 2001, $9.95, +630384, 13.5% alcohol, deep and intense, needs food; tight, taut, needs time too. WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2003 -- Off to the Delta Chelsea Inn for the Wines and Foods of the Region of Piemonte...This fair had earlier been in Montreal (Feb 24), and now it was Toronto's turn...These were wineries looking for agents; the wines would not turn up in our marketplace for quite some time. It was hard to take detailed notes because of the vagueness of the exhibitors. Some did not know about availability, FOB in Euros seemed a tad high for our market (15 - 18 Euros for Barolo), and most did not speak English. This necessitated on board "interpreters"...Nevertheless, Brunello had Castello di Neive. Also, the show was supposed to go from 2 PM to 6 PM, but the hotel ran out of food by 2:30 PM...poor form. But a great turnout of interested agents and trade personnel. Here are some impressions: * Barbaresco S.Stefano 1998 (Castello de Neive), $38, coming to April Vintages was a charming if lightish, off-dry example. There was also a Rocca S. Stefano 1998, a cut up at $50, which has possibilities in the future. These were the only Barbarescos at the show.... * Barolo Vigna Rocche 1998 (Erbaluna), was delicious, with a slight older taste to it. * Barolo Gattera/Bricco Luciani 1998 (F.Lli Ferrero) was still tight, but showed some power in its finish. * Moscato d'Asti Antica Casa Marchesi Spinola (Gancia) was just peachy... * Nebbiolo d'Alba Antica Casa Marchesi Spinola 2000 (Gancia) was useful, if a little on the light side. * Barolo Rocche Riserva 1997 (Molino Franco) was the oldest wine here, and at the Reserve level. It was delicious, but it still had miles to go... * Barolo "Vigna San Giacomo" 1999 (Stroppiana Oreste) was the best Barolo at the show, with mounds of flavour. Of course, it was fruit-forward... For more details, contact the Toronto Office of the Italian Trade Commission, 416-598-1566 or FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2003 -- My monthly roundup of wine samples and products from a variety of sources: * Hamelin Bay Chardonnay 2000 Margaret River, 13.5% alcohol, $20.50 Consignment lifted buttery tones, settling in nicely, rounded out in the finish. * Hamelin Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Margaret River, 15% alcohol, $21.50 Consignment: tight, needs time, but lots of extract and fruit. A winner. * Hamelin Bay Shiraz 2000 Margaret River, 15% alcohol, $21.50 Consignment: a bit tight and alcoholic, needs time to come around. Hamelin Bay products are available from David Thompson, 905-634-2325.... * Kendall-Jackson Collage Semillon-Chardonnay 2001 California, +567636 General, $13.95: a recent price drop of about a dollar and a half gives added value to this fruit-driven blend of 60% semillon and 40% chardonnay... * Kendall-Jackson Collage Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz California, +567644 General List, $ 13.95: an even bigger price drop here for this popular 60% cabernet, 40% shiraz blend. US and French oak barrels were used, as well as stainless steel. Generous, soft black fruit. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JANUARY 2003 ======================================= by Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Always available at MONDAY, JANUARY 13, 2003 -- The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada held their annual dinner at Hemispheres (Metropolitan Hotel), under the guidance of Chef Emmanuel Martin. Unlike many events, this is one that we actually pay for, plus we have to bring wine from our personal cellars -- two bottles a couple. The kitchen staff came in on their night off -- there is only bar service here on Mondays -- so it was a double treat. We started with a closed Annual Meeting, and then continued to a sparkling wine reception for the WWCC and guests. Seared foie gras was served with butternut squash and purple potatoes, with a fig sauce and some Inniskillin Icewine 1995. A super match!! Giant zipperback tiger shrimps or bison tenderloin? Couples split on this one...The shrimps came with angel hair pasta, the bison with an apple-quince mash and vegetable tian. Wines were quickly rotated around the room (not a single one was corked!), and each of us had about a dozen glasses behind the food, with the usual one ounce tasting portion. The meal continued with cheese, such as sage derby and goat, and a trio of small desserts. It was a great night for wine tasting, conversation, and eating. The staff exceeded themselves. For a complete list of our cellar selections, email me ... WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 15, 2003 -- Felipe Gonzalez-Gordon of Gonzalez Byass flew into town to provide his insights on the company's sherry, discuss food pairings, and explain new directions for the area. All styles of sherry were covered, including some very rare old soleras. As well, there were samples of red table wines and a Lepanto Solera Gran Reserva Brandy coming to Vintages in April (+94334, $79.95). All of this at Crush, mid-day, with a broad selection of Spanish cheeses, offered to the trade as a tutored tasting (sit down, notes, etc.). Woodman Wines & Spirits are the agents , 416-767-5114 for more details. Here are some notes: * Tio Pepe Fino, $14.95, +242669 GL: what all the Spanish drink, a bracing fino aged under flor (here, an average of 5 years). Clean, clear taste, with a bit of a bite, bone dry, best with food (tapas: Crush provided almonds, blck and green olives, and anchovies). * Croft Pale Cream Sherry, $14.55, +73452 Vintages in April: sweet nose, almost an equivalent to sweet port. For the aperitif trade. * Elegante Amontillado Medium, $8.95, +586537 GL: a medium weight sherry, okay for the price, but a short finish. * Alfonso Dry Oloroso, $15.85, +954776 Vintages: good dry consistency, well- priced, in line with recent offerings of "dry oloroso" at Vintages. A true aperitif or first course wine.... * Nutty Solera Sweet Oloroso, $10.75, +35204 Vintages in May: raisiny, a bit hot on the finish. * Solera 1847 Cream, $15.60, +972109, $15.60 Vintages: coarse, but with plenty of raisins and cream. and the old guys, all $46.95 (except one) by private order -- * Del Duque Amontillado: old caramel nose, a bit wispy, light and elegant with a long draw on the finish. * Apostoles Palo Cortado: (a sherry that is found, not created -- an oloroso with an amontillado taste) one of my favourites, with full flavours and no sweetness. Extremely rare. 92% palomino grapes. Well-worth the price. * Matusalem Sweet Oloroso: intense but not too sweet, although this sample had a shorter than expected finish. Serve with cabrales cheese and foie gras. * Noe Pedro Ximenez: syrupy brown British old caramel and sweet molasses. Could be served over ice cream. * Palo Cortado 1978, $178: essence of a soul, delightfully pale. The aftertaste remained the rest of the afternoon.... The table wines were from Beronia, a Rioja winery acquired by the company. * Beronia 1999 Crianza, $15.69 licensee by consignment: a good quaffer for a restaurant list. * Beronia 1994 Gran Reserva, $31.95, +940965 Vintages in February: some depth and stuffing, but a tad overpriced. * Beronia Barrel Fermented Tempranillo 2000, $16.95, +723643 Vintages in March: now you are talking North American -- intense and developing, 15,000 bottles in total, American oak, two MFs, left on lees, decanted chilled. Upfront fruit and anise, some smoke and coffee (match it with anybody's urban blend). Interesting complexity, developing in the glass. Should do well, priced to go. WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 22, 2003 -- Back to Crush, for about the tenth time in two months (is there a pattern here?), the occasion being Southbrook Winery's release of some 2001 vintaged products, the first harvest under new winemaker Colin Campbell. The former winemaker, Derek Barnett, is now a partner in Lailey Winery, the source of some of Southbrook's wines. So the close connection continues. In addition to the 2001 line, the trade was able to sample some 2000 and 1999, as well as the fruit quartet of dessert wines (Framboise, Cassis, Blackberry, Blueberry, all $14.95 the half- bottle). I think Bill Redelmeier, one of the owners, talked to everybody in the room -- at length -- over the course of the afternoon.... Here are some impressions from the walkaround: * Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $17.95: 500 cases, BF in four year old French oak, left in for three months before transfer to stainless steel. Detailed zest and lemons, will definitely improve with some bottle age. * Triomphe Chardonnay 2001, $19.95: fermented and aged in new and 1 year old French oak for a year; broad middle palate of fruit, with wood tones on the end palate, finishes a bit off-dry. * Triomphe Chardonnay 2000, $19.95: balance of fruit and finishing acid, great and elegant finish. My personal favourite of the afternoon. * Triomphe Chardonnay 1999, $19.95: ripe and voluptuous, almost Oz-like, some wood tones on the finish, aging nicely. * Triomphe Pinot Noir 2001, $24.95: good flavours, only 140 cases produced, aged in French oak for 10 months. Wood tones should mute after time, for now the fruit is a bit obscured. From Lailey Vineyards. * Triomphe Cabernet Merlot 2001, $29.95: new US oak aging, MF, 50% cab. sauvignon 35% merlot, balance cab. franc. Herby and tight at this point, but could be a giant with its fruit. Good investment. * Triomphe Cabernet Merlot 2000, $24.95: tight, needs time to open up. * Triomphe Cabernet Merlot 1999, $39.95: a skillfully made wine, with some sweetness and fruit in the mid-palate, some age now showing. * Cabernet Sauvignon Lailey Vineyard 2001, $27.95: 250 cases, aged in US oak for one year with full MF, fruit and tannins, ready soon despite being so young. Fruit forward, obviously. * Cabernet Franc Watson Vineyard 2001, $27.95: 250 cases, aged in US oak for 13 months, full MF. Great depth and development, best of 2001 reds for food at this point. * Merlot Lailey Vineyard 1999, $34.95: best red of the afternoon, soft, fruity, approaching Bordeaux Pomerol status at a bargain price. For more details, call Bill or Colin at 905-832-2548 TUESDAY, JANUARY 28, 2003 -- Pascal Aperce, Export Director for Chateau Bonnet (Andre Lurton) blew into town rather informally, and quickly pulled together a lunch at Le Select with agent Martin Lacey and some members of the Wine Writers' Circle. Lurton wines which turn up in the Ontario marketplace from time to time include Ch.La Louviere, de Rochemorin, de Cruzeau, and Couchroy -- all from Pessac-Leognan (Graves). Plus, of course, Ch. Dauzac, a cru classe en 1855 from Margaux. Aperce led a tasting of several wines which are currently (or will be) available for sale through the LCBO. It was an open lunch; we all selected highly individual choices off the bistro menu, to accompany the wines. Thus, we had terrines, cassoulet, lamb chops, bavette, sweetbreads, calmari, onion soup, smoked whitefish, andouillette...Here were the wines (check with Martin Lacey for availability and licensee prices, 416-690-2557 * Chateau Bonnet 2001 Entre-Deux-Mers, +083709, $12.95GL: 45% sauvignon blanc, equal semillon, and 10% muscadelle. 100% fresh, with a mild sauvignon zest. Great as a sipper or with food, aperitifs, appetizers... * Chateau Bonnet 1999 Reserve, +099044-99, $15.95GL: a top end general bordeaux full of warm toast, forward fruit, in a North American style -- aged in stave- oak barrels, 60/40 split of cabernet sauvignon with merlot. Still around in some stores, to be replaced by 2000... * Chateau Bonnet 2000 Reserve, +099044-00, $15.95GL: a top end general bordeaux that is still unresolved, a bit tight, needs to be opened and decanted in advance. 50/50 split of cabernet sauvignon with merlot. * Chateau Coucheroy 1999, +944983, $17.80 Vintages: second label to Ch. de Rochemorin, a year in French oak, some depth and anise, a bit jammy. Good finish. 50/50 split with cabernet sauvignon and merlot. * Chateau Coucheroy 2000, $17.80 (?) Vintages: coming soon, same blend, but when tasted, it seemed smoother than the 1999. FRIDAY, JANUARY 31, 2003 -- At the ManuLife LCBO location, MCO hosted a wine writer tasting with Etienne Montes, a former prize-winning photojournalist who returned to his family estate in Roussillon to make fine wines. He began upgrading in 1987, and now offers a great portfolio of red and white Cotes du Roussillon at various pricepoints. These are all longlived wines, with terrific structure -- even the modestly priced ones. Chateau la Casenove lies 10 kilometres from the Mediterranean, in the foothills of Mount Canigou, Pyrenees. Here are some notes on the wines and their availability: * Ch. la Casenove Macabeu-Torbat 2000 is a white Vin de Pays Catalan, 80% made from the maccabeo grape (same as in Spain) and the rest from torbat, originally from Sardinia. It registers 14% alcohol, and has been aged in new oak for a year. Aromas of almonds, some smoke and candy, mounds of flavour on the palate, thick, hot, rich, best in winter....capable of more aging... $28 by private order. * Ch. la Casenove La Garrigue 2000 is a red Cotes du Roussillon, 13.5% alcohol, made from grenache (35%), carignan (35%), syrah (20%), and mourvedre (10%). It is also the red Wine of the Month at Vintages (+956888, $15.75, 1300 cases available). Initally a muted nose which opened, some depth to the flavour, some pepper showing, but a hot finish. Not much grenache character (thank god), needs to be aged a bit longer. Good complexity and balance of the elements, especially at this price level. Thick, and great value at this price level... * Ch. la Casenove Torrespeyres 2000 Cotes du Roussillon was my favourite of the day. It's mostly syrah, some raisins-prunes on the nose, thick, juicy, heavy but not ponderous, long finish, full of flavour. Needed time to open and needs cellaring. 14.5% alcohol, about $33 by private order. * Ch. la Casenove 1998 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvee Cdt Jaubert, 13.5% alcohol, 20,000 bottles made from grenache (30%), carignan (25%), syrah (35%), and mourvedre (10%)...Massive, dense wine with a finish which lingers. Some burnt complexity on the nose. About $57 by private order. * Ch. la Casenove 2000 Cotes du Roussillon Cuvee Cdt Jaubert, 14.5% alcohol (even more powerful at this alcohol level). Needs time to resolve. Overall, more syrah flavours at this point. Also $57 by private order. * Ch. la Casenove Domaine Saint Luc Pla del Rei 2000 Cotes de Roussillon, 14.7% alcohol...This would have been a fortified wine a few years back. Extremely dense body like Cahors, long long length, full of generous fruit but of course not yet ready. Some grenache tones after awhile. Needs time. A super premium wine at a price: $140 a bottle, by private order. 60,000 bottles made. * Ch. la Casenove Muscat de Rivesaltes 2001, at 16%b alcohol, is a fortified wine with a typical orange flavour. But a solid dryish finish, and priced competitively at $17.50 by private order. For more details, contact MCO at 905-562-1392 SOME PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH, FROM SAMPLES ============================================= * Badacsonyi Szurkebarat 2000, +977595, $11.30: fresh and fruity tones, a bit off-dry, from pinot gris. Great quaffer from Hungary. * Vineland Estates Chardonnay 2001, $12.95 at 1-888-VINELAND or : a bit lean but elegant, some muted wood tones from 20% of it being aged in French oak for six months. * Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2001, $12.95: a bit off-dry, with pear tones, from a varietal original to the Loire Valley. Good quaffer. * Catena Chardonnay 1999 Adriana Vineyard, (Argentina), $ 39, +959973 Classics: a rich and fruity white with delicious wood tones and mouthfeel, plus long finish. But ends soft in Oz-style. * Thomson Woolpunda Yellow Block Chardonnay 2001, South Australia, $9.95, +627208GL: 13.5% in alcohol, fruity and lemony, soft vanilla tones. Value at this price level. Label says "Grown, vintaged and bottled by Thomson..." * Penfolds Rawson's Retreat Chardonnay 2001, SE Australia, $10.95, +611202GL: 13% alcohol, showing tropical fruit with a long soft finish. A sipper. * Villanyi Kekoporto 2000, Hungary, +976258, $11.65: from blauer portugieser grapes, decent quaffing red wine, with an interesting palate. * Chateau de Lascaux 2000 Les Nobles Pierres, Languedoc, $25, +729541 Classics: good blended red wine, with a fine finish. It stood out from the rest. * Robert Skalli Merlot 2000, Pays D'Oc, $12.95 +571042GL: good length, some wood tones, jammy fruit up front. Good for North American market. * Vinival Pasta Cabernet Merlot 2000, Pays D'Oc, $9.95, +618462GL: 50/50 blend, soft fruit, off-dry finish of (1), value for a great quaffer. No food required. * Thomson Woolpunda Red Block Shiraz 2000, South Australia, $9.95, +627216GL: good depth to the palate, long finish, great value. Label says "Grown, vintaged and bottled by Thomson..." * Hillebrand Pinot Noir Showcase Glenlake Vineyard 2000, $22, +980201-00 at Vineyards or : one year in French oak, full MF. Smoky toasty tones with tart fruit (cranberries) but soft finish. Should mature well. Only five small barrels made. * Peller Estates Cabernet Franc Private Reserve Barrel Aged 2000, $19.95, +981209-00 at Vineyards: 35 barrels, aged a year in both French and US oak. Herby and smoky, maybe needs beef. Definitely a food wine. * Peller Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Barrel Aged 2000, $19.95, +981183-00 at Vineyards: 33 barrels made, aged a year in both French and US oak. Earthy and cassis tones, juicy, spicy, ready soon. * Vineland Estates Select Late Harvest Vidal 1998, $18.95 at 1-888-VINELAND or : sweetness of (9), excellent acid delivery with plenty of apricots. Well-aged, and ready to roll now.... * Hillebrand Showcase Vidal Icewine Barrel Fermented 2001, +980144-01, $60 from Vineyards: 3 barrels available, picked early Feb. 2002 and fermented in French oak and aged in oak for 2 more months. As always, apricots dominate, but some cooked fruit (marmalade?) also from the barrel. Uniquely done, and uniquely tasted. * Barack Palinka (Hungary, Kecskemet Region), +981480, $24.40: and speaking of apricots, here is an apricot eau-de-vie with a twist...distilled twice in a pot still... all organic fruit and organic production methods..wonderfully fresh flavours, and intense. Dare to try with a vidal icewine as a cocktail?  WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 2002 ===================================================== by Dean Tudor ... This Diary is always available at MONDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2002 -- The Italian Trade Commission put on its annual Italian Media Tasting of wines and grappa, from about 56 Italian wine producers. It all began early in the morning with some seminars, followed by a lunchtime tasting, followed by a mid-afternoon trade tasting, and -- for the first time -- an evening consumer component. The all day tasting was at Metro Toronto Convention Centre, on the upper level. As usual, I could not taste everything. Here are some notes on wines that stood out for me: * Ascheri Barolo Sorano 1998, from Prevedello and Mathews: a bit tart but elegant, broad sweetness in the nose. * Ascheri Barolo Vigna dei Pola 1998: a definite step up, excellent all round. * Bersano & Riccadonna Barolo Riserva 1995, $55 from Lacey's International: typical but smooth and creamy near the finish. * Bersano & Riccadonna Barbaresco Mantico 1997: soft and ready, light but a strong finish. * Ca' Rome Barbaresco "Maria di Brun" 1999, from Regazzi: soft, fruity, ready soon, a bit light. * Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva 1998, from Lorac: a bit sweet on the finish. * Casale del Giglio Shiraz IGT Lazio 2000, from Wine Lovers Agency: definite French style, needs some time, but exhibited a great taste. * Casale del Giglio Mater Matuta IGT Lazio 1998: 85% syrah, 15% petit verdot, an excellent blend. Great syrah flavours. * Cennatoio Etrusco IGT Toscana 1999, $50 Classics from Halpern: good oaking for this barrique aged 100% sangiovese. * Classica LI VELI Salice Salentino 2000, $41 from Rogers: a great example of what an expensive Negroamaro tastes like, fine depth from Puglia. * Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglia 1999, $49 from Maxxium: soft, fruity, ready and approachable. * Collavini Merlot Isonzo Villa del Canlungo 2000, $10.95 on the General List: oak, fruit, soft, quaffable. * Badia a Coltibuono Chinati Classico Riserva 1999, from Liquid Art: a delivery of fine flavours, longish finish. * Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Chiaranda' del Merlo 2001, $39 from Maxxium: half chardonnay and half ansonical, barrel fermented, creamy but elegant, long length. * Farnese Sangiovese Daunia IGT "Don Camillo" 2001, $19 from Barrique: very fine wine exhibiting lots of fruit. 85% sangiovese, 15% cabernet sauvignon * Livio Felluga Sharjs IGT Delle Venezie 2001, $28 from Dandurand: 70% chardonnay and 30% ribolla gialla, good quality and length, oak and cloves on finish. * Casa Girelli Virtuoso Primitivo Puglia 2000m, $24 from Academy: like an upscale zinfandel in body, off-dry finish, ready soon. * Lungarotti Aurente Chardonnay Umbria 2000, $24 from J.Cipelli: 6- 8 months in oak, noticeable woodsy finish. 10% grechetto added. * Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Riserva 1999 di Fizzano, $37 Vintages in April 2003: about 85% sangiovese, rest cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Delicious red fruit components... * Rocca delle Macie Ser Gioveto 1998 IGT Tuscany, $36 Vintages: intense, oaky finish. * Fat. Montellori Vigne del Moro IGT Toscana 1999, $17 from Barrique: a full wine, excellent for restaurants, ready now. 80% sangiovese, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malvasia nero. * Ercole Velenosi Villa Angela IGT 2001 Marche, $15 from Brunello: decent wine, balanced fruit and oak, value. 100% chardonnay. * Villa Vignamaggio TGT Toscana 1999, $40 at Classics: from 50 year-old cabernet franc vines, intense flavours, and well-rounded. * Vigne & Vini Primitivo del Tarantino IGT "Tatu" 2001, $14 from Black Ram: 14% alcohol, chocolate nose, intense. Good value. * Vigne & Vini Primitivo di Manduria "Chicca" 2000, $30 500 mL bottle: a late harvest style from dried grapes from very old vines. Concentrated sweet finish. * Zonin Sauvignon Friuli Aquileia Ca' Bolani 2001, $16 from Churchill Cellars: good balance of fruit and zest, 100% sauvignon blanc. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2002 -- The annual President's Tasting from Maxxium was once again held at McLean House. Over the years Maxxium has extended both its supplier/producer list and its guest list. This year, Tino Colla (Poderi Colla), Agnoluzzi Graziano (Collavini), Antonio Rallo (Donnafugata), and Luc Desroches (Masi) joined the Maxxium team in presenting their wines. They were also at the Italian wine trade show the day before.....The event began with a "Viva Italia" sit down tasting of a dozen wines, presented by the team listed above, plus Mark Bruni from Beringer Blass and Zoltan Fekete from Mondavi (Luce). Wines sampled and commented on included Collavini's Ribolla La Gialla Turian 2000, Collavini Schioppettino Turian 1999, Sicily's Donnafugata's Tancredi 2000 and Mille Una Notte 1999, the Luce de la Vita Lucente 1999 ($37) and Luce de la Vita Luce 1998 ($99) from the partnership of Mondavi and Frescobaldi (both excellent wines in their price ranges). My overall favourite was the Masi Grandarella 1999, an IGT from the Veneto, made from partially dried refosco, carmenere, and corvina grapes: plummy, cherries, some wood, and best value here for the dollar ($28). Later, with the crush of the crowd, I enjoyed seafood with the intense Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve mis en cave 1997, and the Piper-Heidsieck Rose N/V. The Conservatory, once again packed around four tables, offered a light buffet with such typical wines as Sileni Estates Chardonnay 2001 from Hawkes Bay and Sileni Estates Semillon 2002. The broad sweetness of both Saintsbury Chardonnay Reserve 2000 and its Pinot Noir Reserve 1999 counteracted the intensity of Dopff & Irion's Gewurztraminer "Les Sorcieres" 2000 Domaine du Chateau de Riquewihr and its Tokay Pinot Gris "Vorbourg" 2000 Grand Cru. Ferrari Carano's Siena 1999 from Sonoma (sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon) was a mouthfull of tasty goodness. But Ferrari Carano's Chardonnay 2000 really made me pay attention, with its full ripeness and woodsy finish. The trip through the Conservatory finished with an excellent To Kalon Fume Blanc Reserve 1999 from Mondavi. The Mahogany Room (where the beef has always ruled) has always been the place to hang out for the heavier reds. This time, the Perold 1998 from KWV in South Africa did not disappoint the lust for heavy-heavy texture. It was the most delicious red in the room. Other wines included Delegats' Reserve Merlot 2000 from Hawkes Bay, Geyser Peak's Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 from the Alexander Valley, and Masi's Campolongo de Torbe 1997 Amarone...The Library used to be where desserts were, but this time Beringer Blass took over the room, with pates, meats, and cheeses to accompany the dense cedar and oak of Black Label 1998 or the lushness of Steve MacLieri Shiraz 1999. Desserts have been moved over to the Patio (with its excellent Donnafugata Ben Rye 2000 Passito di Pantelleria dessert wine, Quady Essensi and Quady Elysium, vintage ports from Warres and Quinta de la Rosa) and also to the Coach House, along with the mixed drinks and digestifs (Remy Martin XO, Knob Creek Bourbon, Highland Park 18 year old SM whisky). It was a night for moderation; I enjoyed a long walk afterwards. For more details on wines, prcies, availablity, etc. call Maxxium 416-535-7899... TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 2002 -- It was Jeanjean Nouveau Tasting today, beginning with a sampling of the soon-to-be released Syrah Primeur 2002 (+899948, $8.95). This wine has been selected by the LCBO as a Nouveau for the fourth year in a row. It has been in bottle one month, in the fancy Arabesque series, with the curvy-wavey bottle. A real attention getter. To celebrate, the agent Eurovintage put on a luncheon at the Cafe Nicole Novotel Toronto Centre, and also introduced the whole line of that Arabesque available in Ontario (Syrah Rose, Chardonnay, Merlot). The company also makes Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc. We had a separate tasting, followed by a lunch with the wines, and with two other wines from the Jeanjean company: a Chateau Valoussiere 1999 Coteaux du Languedoc, a blend of syrah and grenache, good value at $13.95 when it comes in, and Lodez 1999, another Coteaux du Langudeoc but with more syrah, equally good value at $13.95. Peppercorn pate with andouille sausage was the right thing for the raspberry flavours of the Primeur and the comparable softness and coolness of the Rose (+355347, $8.95) -- both were syrah. We next added the Chardonnay (+630681, $8.95) with its soft fruit and stainless steel storage to the frisee salad of goat's cheese, walnuts, and smoked duck. The pan seared chicken, with a merlot reduction, was saved for the red fruit-based fruity and full Merlot (+582130, $8.95) plus the remainder of the earlier Coteaux... For more details on the availability of the wine, call Eurovintage 416-494-2881 or 1-888-700-WINE. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 2002 -- Lexcellent Wines held a portfolio tasting for trade and customers at Crush Wine Bar, mid- afternoon. There are tons of details about all of the wines and the firms at Top names include Domaine du Bollenberg (Alsace), Domaine A. Cailbourdin (Loire), and Andre Petit (Cognac). They specialize in what are known as "French country wines", along the lines of what is brought into the US by such agents as Kermit Lynch. Prices are always moderate and certainly affordable, but they are part of the Consignment Program and purchases are thus by the case...It was a walkaround, but the following stood out (licensee prices): * Domaine du Bollenberg Muscat d'Alsace 2001, $16.50: great muscat intensity upfront, with a modest finish. * Domaine du Bollenberg Tokay Pinto Gris 2000, $16.50: a bit over the top with tropical flavours, even some coconut, but luscious and full-bodied. * Domaine du Bollenberg Riesling 2000 Cuvee Selectionnee, $21.36: very powerful, full of that Alsatian Riesling character, at a bargain price. * Rolly Gassmann Tokay Pinot Gris 1999 Reserve, $45: intense nose, full flavours, lovely off-dry length to the finish, well-rounded. Fairly priced. * Chateau Jura-Plaisance 1996 Montagne-St.Emilion, $21.76: soft, warm, inviting, merlot-based. Ready now, restaurant friendly. * Jean-Claude Breliere Rully Blanc 2000 Les Margotes, $25.85: some anise on the nose, but firm body and length. * Jean-Claude Breliere Rully Rouge 2000 Les Preaux, $25.85: some burnt toast on the nose, not unpleasant, cherries, longish length. * Vins Auvigue Pouilly Fuisse 2000 La Frairie a Solutre, $28.60: fullish on the palate, longish devlopment through the finish. * Vins Auvigue Pouilly Fuisse 2000 Vielles Vignes, $32.94: brilliant intensity and textures, but a modest finish. Needs bottle aging. * Vins Auvigue Pouilly Fuisse 2000 Cuvee Hors Class, $37.14: with barrel fermentation and very North American in style, this wine certainly stood out and made me pay attention. * Vins de Grandes Cuvees Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 1999 Comte de St. Hubert, $15.48: bright, with a high acid finish, citrus tones, carrying its age well. * Andre Petit Pineau des Charentes Petit Blanc/Petit Rose, $15.78: barrel aged sweetness, but with a dryish finish due to time. * Andre Petit Pineau des Charentes Cuvee Yann Tres Vieux, $30.98: a buck a year (30+ years old), well-worth it for the dramatic character of anise and some tea, plus the quality and lift from aging, dryish finish. For more details, check the website or call 416-461-4577. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2002 -- "A Taste of Vincor" was given at the Ontario Club. It was a day long event, with members of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada kicking it off with a structured tasting in mid-morning. This was followed by a light buffet lunch. And then a trade tasting. Vincor brought together in one room all eight of their estate wineries, along with some of their winemakers. We ended up tasting some 54 wines from such properties in the Okanagan Valley, BC (Hawthorne, Inniskillin Okanagan, Jackson-Triggs Okanagan, Nk'Mip, Sumac Ridge), Niagara Peninsula (Inniskillin Niagara, Jackson-Triggs Niagara), Washington state (Hogue), Californis (R.H. Phillips), and Australia (Goundrey)...At the walkaround, I thought these wines stood out: * Hawthorne Mountain Gewurztraminer 2001 Okanagan, +440685, $13.40: good intensity and lovely flavours, well-rounded, no bitter aftertaste. * Hawthorne Mountain Meritage 2000 Okanagan, +593064, $17.95: 60% cabernet sauvignon, 20 franc, 20 merlot, and all good, softer than expected but approachable now in its fruit-forwardness. * Hogue Cellars Genesis Chardonnay 2000 Columbia Valley, $24.95: good integration of flavours, off-dry on palate. * Hogue Cellars Genesis Merlot 1999 Columbia Valley, $24.95: soft, forward, and approachable, great for restaurants. * Inniskillin Okanagan Meritage 2000 Dark Horse, +597039, $19.95: I thought that this was the best wine in the room, for value, beginning with the fruity nose and closing out with some soft oak tones and vanilla on the finish. * Inniskillin Riesling Reserve 1999 Niagara, +253278, $12.95: hard to go wrong at this price level, and the wine is aging very well. Good intense flavours. * Inniskillin Founders' Reserve Chardonnay 1999 Niagara, +558031, $29.95: a fine example of excellence in oaking. * Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Shiraz 2000 PR, +593103, $16.95: softly approachable, Oz-like fruit and wood tones, great value at this price. * Nk'Mip Cellars Merlot 2000 Oakanagan, +626416, $16.95: peppery, fruity, and off-dry. * R.H.Phillips Kempton Clark Petite Sirah 2000 Dunnigan Hills, $16.95: very oaky, possibly masking any stemminess from the young vines. But still a serious wine for contemplation, long finish. * R.H.Phillips Toasted Head Chardonnay 2001 Dunnigan Hills, +594341, $21.95: another fine value chard from California, expressive of balanced oaking. For more details, call 905-564-3003. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2002 -- Today is Beaujolais Nouveau day, a day full of fruits and sunshine, and revelling in the new wine of 2002...For the first time in two decades, the French did not throw a media party: the first sign of contraction. Ah well...Gone are the days of the Royal York launches, the Inn on the Park, the Skyline, Ontario Place, Casa Loma, and other fabled event palaces. At prior launches, we used to quaff some of the crus from the year before....There are other ways and means to taste the new wines, from France, Italy, and Ontario...The LCBO took up the slack when, for the second straight year, they had a free consumer and press tasting of all the releases, in three stores in the Toronto area. It was a good opportunity to taste the Mommessin, the Duboeuf Beaujolais- Villages, and the Domaine de L'Eperon Beaujolais-Villages. The best bang for the buck was Duboeuf's Gamay Nouveau from the Ardeche ($9.20), followed by Jeanjean Arabesque Syrah Primeur ($8.95). Later on that day, I had an opportunity to taste the SAQ releases at Alain Laliberte's office "Crus & Saveurs" -- 16 of the 17 came in by train, French and Italian. But they were pricey. Vino Novello was about $11.95, Primeur from other regions were $14.95, Beaujolais was $13.95 to $15.95. We tasted an Anjou Gamay, a Touraine Primeur, a Merlot Novello from Velletri ($11.95, upfront juicy quality), a Bardolino Novello from Negrar, a Gaillac Gamay, two Muscadet Primeurs (both fresh and fruity, both $12.95 from Marcel MArtin and Guilbaude Freres), and an exciting Pinot Bianco delle Venezie from Sartori ($9.95, sweet on palate but finishes dry). Hopefully, the LCBO will bring in some "blanc nouveau" or "bianco novello" next year. But I know they won't: I've made this request for over 20 years. SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2002 -- Off to the wilds of the Humber River by Lake Ontario, for Steven Trenholme's annual seminar, "Importing Wine for Pleasure and Profit", an all-day class for both consumers and potential agents -- anybody who wants to import wine for "pleasure and/or profit". Assisting was Ian Mitchell, retired from the LCBO, and now a wine agent with Kerloch. This was Steve's ninth seminar, given since 1992... Entrepreneurs were instructed on how to establish an import wine/spirits/beers agency business in Canada, and compete in an industry with a growing landed cost value exceeding $ 3 billion annually. There was an overview of the beverage alcohol industry in Ontario (importers, suppliers, trade associations, foreign trade commissions, transportation, customs, public relations, media, wine clubs, restaurants, etc.), how to import for personal use, how to operate a business by starting an agency or working for one, finding suppliers, contracts, marketing channels, future opportunities. Many handouts, especially the forms. Steve led us through the various ways that the forms could be filled out. And of course, the inevitable q & a afterwards. To get on the list for the next seminar, call Steve at 416-503-9834 or MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2002 -- "A Tasting of Fine Wines from Portugal" was the theme of a trade show organized by the co-ops in Portugal and the Portuguese Trade Commission in Toronto. It was held at the Ontario Club. Nine Portuguese co-ops were looking for agents in Ontario. Each had brought over a half-dozen or more wines. Some were ports, and some were vinhos verdes. Adega Cooperativa de Cantanhede had signed up with Wineworld; they were from Bairrada. We sampled Beiras "Giselle" Rose 2001, about $8.60, full and delicious, mostly baga-based. The Marques de Marialva Tinto 2000, also baga, was slightly off-dry and fruit-driven after six months in oak. The Reserva 2000 showed good development and cellaring possibilities. Other wines I enjoyed included: * Adega Cooperativa De S.Mamede da Ventosa, Alma Vitis Tinto 2000 Estremadura, which was full and rich, based on local grape varieties such as the camarate. * Adega Cooperativa De Tondela, Encruzado/Cercial Branco 2000 Dao, good character which stood out, a dry finish but still a succulent wine. * Cooperativa Agricola De S. Isidro de Pegoes, Adega de Pegoes Branco 2001, from Palmela, a mix of chardonnay, pinot blanc, and airnto, oaked in a North American style. * Cooperativa Agricola De S. Isidro de Pegoes, Adega de Pegoes Tinto 2000, a cabernet sauvignon-touriga nacional mix, half of each, oak aged for a year, some rosemary complexity. Gold Medal winner. 7 Euros FOB each bottle. * Cooperativa Agricola De S. Isidro de Pegoes, Vale da Judia Branco 2001, with muscat grapes, but dry and with lots of flavours. Good with food. The Fontanario de Pegoes Branco 2001 was also good, with very full flavours. * Caves de Santa Marta Reserva Tinto 1999 Douro, full, off-dry flavours, delicious and complex, with some wood tones. * UDACA Reserva Tinto 1989 Dao, the oldest table wine at the trade show, well- preserved and like a garrafeira, which we have not seen in Ontario for quite some time... More details through William Delgado of ICEP, 416-921-4925 or MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2002 -- "The Real Jerk" cookbook was launched at The Real Jerk restaurant. The authors -- Lily and Ed Pottinger -- spoke about the book and their early days. Locals and media attended, to eat up the buffet of goodies cooked from recipes in the book. Janis Ackroyd of Whitecap handled the PR for the publisher, Arsenal Pulp. What wine goes with jerked foods? I don't know -- they were serving Jamaican Red Stripe. The nameless housewine was also okay... TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2002 -- A fun night--- Toronto Fashion with Pays d'Oc wines, at the Church at Berkeley. Tonight we saw the fashion designs of Susanne Langlois and Erin Murphy of EZA Wear, Queen Street West, a spring and summer preview. Proceeds from the ticketed event went to The Stop, a local community food centre emphasizing nutrition, support for pregnant women, and a food bank. Food platters came from Daniel et Daniel, the wines from a half-dozen agents. Most of the wines were under $10, and included chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah from off the General List. Some of the wines I enjoyed, in the context of the various foods (as they were all fruit-forward and food-friendly) included the Arabesque Syrah Rose (Jeanjean, $8.95), the Domaine des Fees Cabernet Sauvignon (Chantovent, $8.95), the Chardonnay Rothschild ($10.10), and La Baume Cabernet Sauvignon ($9.95, and my overall fave of the night). MONDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2002 -- The Trade Commission of Spain in Toronto put together a "hands on" seminar for trade food and wine professionals. It was a comprehensive review of where Spain is at, as a source of products and culinary inspiration. The venue was the Inter-Continental Hotel, the title was BRAVO ESPANA! 2002, it lasted all day, and it jelled under the hard-working Trade Commissioner, Isabel Riano...Attendance was limited to 70, with about 50 at any one time since it wnet on all day. Of course the peak time was lunch...We began with a discourse on "Spanish Gastronomy" by Maria Jose Sevilla, a food writer now working out of England. This talk-slide show was an introduction to the different regional cuisines, and to newly developing trends. Next up was an olive oil seminar, lead by Santiago Botas (more slides and talks), after which we tasted four types of olive oils, the mono-varietals Arbequina (3% of Spain's total production), Picual (50%), Morisca (6%), and a blend of three varieties. After coffee, we moved onto sherry, with Barry Brown. The PowerPoint presentation was useful to show us details about the seven sherries we sipped: generic samples from the sherry consortium, ranging from Fino through Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso, through Pedro Ximenez. They were all excellent, despite being "generic" samples to show off..Perhaps the reason why many sherry sales are flat is because we don't get the best or the freshest, at the existing price levels in Canada. The Fino was glorious -- the best I've every had in Toronto ! And so onto lunch...sampling Spanish dishes prepared by Chefs Teresa Barrenechea (up here from her New York restaurant) and Jack Lamont of the Inter-Continental. It was called "A Traditional Basque Lunch" (Basque is the centre of Spanish gastronomy). The appetizer was a collection of endives with cabrales blue cheese, toasted almonds and mandarin sections. The cream of white asparagus soup was more cream than anything else, but it was made up by the red snapper fillet, accompanied by the Torres Vina Esmeralda (off-dry on the palate but finishes dry, muscat and gewurztraminer based). The meat course was an excellent oxtail braised in rioja, accompanied by Conde de Valdemar Crianza Rioja (oaky at first, opening to fruit). The cheese course was intentionally postponed to the seminar. Dessert was a chocolate mousse with extra virgin olive oil. Back to the seminar proper: a discussion about cheeses. There are over 1000 producers of Spanish cheese, and 88% of them are small. Mariano Sanz led us through a tasting of soft Galician Tetilla, the goat's milk Murcia al Vino, the lightly smoked Idiazabal, and the blue Cabrales -- eight in all. Most cheeses are made to eat young, with aging ranging from one week to six months. Time was slipping away from us, but we pressed on to the "Spanish Kitchen", a series of cooking demonstrations prepared by Chef Teresa and Maria Jose Sevilla. This included anchovies with trout roe, piquillo pepers with piperade, marinated pork filet, and a red mojo sauce from the Canary Islands. The banter-patter between the two cooks was well-worth the price of admission... We were now an hour late, but David Lawrason soldiered on with about 30 tasters eager to hear what he had to say about Spanish wines. We had several different styles as he tried to show us where Spain is today. Cava came from Seguras Viudas and Codorniu Clasico. There was a fully-fruited Marques de Riscal Rueda Verdejo 2001 white, a Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 1998 Rioja (all tyempranillo, fresher than in other years, less oak), the Mahler Bese Taja Reserva 1996 from Jumilla, made from monastrell (=mouvedre), tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon, and Bodegas Pirineos Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, made with oak in a North American context. New style Spanish wines, but also meant for the export market. And Bravo! to the Trade Commission for arranging the day...More details at 416-967-0488... THURSDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2002 -- Book launch time at Avalon, with Kathleen Sloan- McIntosh and her "A Year in Niagara; the people and food of wine country" (a description of Niagara peninsula through a full-year of monthly diaries, with recipes and notes about wineries). Wines for the launch came from Henry of Pelham (a substantial Chardonnay Unoaked 2001), Vineland Estates (a full Cabernet Sauvignon 2001), and Inniskillin (useful Pinot Noir 2001). Food was, of course, by Avalon: arancio, crab cakes, and Ontario prosciutto (a bit sweeter than Parma). Kathleen and husband Ted (now with the Niagara Beer Company) fled Toronto for relocation to Niagara, and ended up writing about it all. Janis Ackroyd of Whitecap was the publicist; for details about the book see my review next month, or WINE PRODUCTS SAMPLED IN NOVEMBER 2002 ====================================== * Masi Modello Delle Venezie IGT 2001, +533026 General List, $9.95: with an SC=1, this soft and fruity wine is a "new style" from the Valpolicella area, made from corvina and raboso veronese local grapes. A sipper for winter. * Cono Sur Pinot Noir Rapel 2001, +341602 General List, $9.90: hard to find pinot noir below $10, but this value from Chile meets all expectations in a straightahead cherry, red fruit and jam (albeit leafy) style. 14% alcohol. * Monte Cheval Vranac 2000, +542498 General List, $9.25: this native plummy red from Montenegro also has 10% cabernet sauvignon added, for a dry, full but slightly herbaceous palate. * Jacques & Francois Lurton Pinot Gris 2001, +556746 General List, $8.95: one of the bargains of the General List, with an SC=1, this Mendoza fruity white is a quality sipper, best attuned to summer, but can now serve as a remembrance of the pool and the patio. * Louis Latour Coteaux de l'Ardeche Chardonnay 2000, +132498 General List, $10.95: useful white wine from just south of Burgundy, in a classy bottle. Typically fresh chardonnay, uot unlike a Pouilly-Fuisse... * Eugenio Collavini Dei Sassi Cavi Fruili Isonzo Chardonnay 2001, +161034 General List, $10.95: a nicely integrated Italian chardonnay, with some fruity character, unlike many Italian chardonnays. * Canyon Road Chardonnay 2001, +439034 General List, $14.15: 13.5% alcohol and an SC=1 makes this a powerful chardonnay from California, with some typicity in its fruit and oaking, almost in an Oz style. * KWV Chardonnay 2002, +304360 General List, $8.95: one of the mainstays of the South African portfolio at the LCBO, in terms of fruitiness and value. A longtime winner at spring's Toronto Food and Wine Show. * Wonambi Limestone Coast Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc 1999, +599092 General List, $10.50: 13% alcohol, an SC=1, and an Australian pedigree means that minerals and citrus can merge with melons and peaches. Hard to find ANY silver medalist (IWSC 2000) at this price level. * Woodbridge Mondavi Syrah 1999, +594176 General List, $13.95: 13.5% alcohol, made up in Oz-style with full jammyness. But still retains enough spine to be a food wine, evidence is in the finish. * Black Opal Shiraz 2000, +474163 General List, $14.95: from the South East Australia (SEA) appellation, a pleasant wine with lots of sweet oak. More a sipper at 12.5% alcohol. * Wonambi Limestone Coast Shiraz 1999, +599100 General List, $11.15: another fruit-forward shiraz from Australia, at a good price. A silver medalist (IWSC 2000) to boot, from Heathfield Ridge. A match for its chardonnay/sauvignon blanc (above) -- both available as a gift pack this Christmas (but no price break from the LCBO)... * Tyrrell's Long Flat Vineyard Shiraz 2001 SEA, +536763 General List, $12: a step up from the basic Long Flat Red, 13% alcohol, full-bodied and full of flavour. SC=1. * Canyon Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, +439018 General List, $14.15: a match for its chardonnay (above), 13.5% alcohol, with fruit and oakiness in an Oz style. Nice value. * Black Opal Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2001 SEA, +351890 General List, $14.95: mostly cabernet (82%), but tempered by modest alcohol (12.5%) and a soft chocolate feel. Dense and mouthfilling, good sipper. * Hippo Creek Merlot 1999 Western Cape, +582320 General List, $9.80: 13% alcohol from South Africa, full and soft, lots of merlot fruit and some character on the finish. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER, 2002 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ by Dean Tudor , Gothic Epicures Always available at THURDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2002 -- The Toronto Media Preview tasting for the Sonoma County Wineries Association Fall tour unfolded at the Metropolitan Hotel. We tasted some sixty wines, just about all from the upcoming October 24 show (see below). All tasting was done blind; we only knew the varietal. Here were my favourites: * Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc 2001, North Coast, $25.14 on consignment through Corby: wood on the nose, more off-dry wood tones on the palate, finishes young oak. Sip or food. * Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 1999 Robert Young Vineyard, $49, in Vintages late 2003: hot nose, alcoholic on palate, became softer with time, long acidic finish, in European style. * Sebastiani Merlot 1998 Sonoma, $24, in Vintages, Spring 2003: some good age showing on the nose, along with wood, soft, fruity, engaging, good off-dry finish. sip or food. * Hartford Family Zinfandel 2000 Russian River, $46.90, consignment through Woodman Wines: characteristic zinfandel, hot and heavy, with a black fruit followthrough. * St.Francis Zinfandel 2000 Old Vines, Sonoma, $40, consignment through Rogers: buttery cream on the nose, a bit hot, but a svelte winenonetheless. * Kenwood Vineyards Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Sonoma, $125, in the Classics Catalogue: a dynamite wine, one that made me pay attention to its excellent nose, good length, lots of fabulous fruit, and a long finish. And thanks to the California Wine Institute for both the pouring opportunity and the fine buffet of food afterwards... WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2002 -- The annual "Spain...A Wine Collection" was put on at Hart House again, sponsored by Vinos de Espana and the Trade Commission of Spain. There were the inevitable tapas and chorizos, as well as Spanish cheeses -- quite the spread...In addition to red, white and sparkling table wines, there were a handful of brandies and sherries. Here are some notes on my favourite table wines; I did not try all the table wines: * Gran Oristan Gran Riserva 1995 ($19.90 from B & W Wines, 416-531-5553): generally a fabulous wine from an excellent year, long fruit and wood tones on the finish. * Rioja Finca Allende 1998 Rioja Alta, +954560, $24.90 at Vintages: developing well in the bottle -- this sample tastes better than the one I had in the LCBO lab some months back. * Mas La Plana Penedes Torres, +315838, $36.45: intense, some underbrush, sandalwood tones, somebody else mentioned "cranberries" * Gandia Hoya de Cadenas 1998 Reserva, $23 at Vintages: a bit jammy, soft and supple on the palate. Still needs time to resolve finishing tannins. * Ontanon Reserva 1995 Rioja, +725895, $27.85 Vintages: single vineyard, lots of forward fruit, 95 % tempranillo. Full-bodied, heavy vanilla. * Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva, still the standard to be tested, not as proficient as in other years. But still a good wine... * Conde de Valdemar 1999 Rioja Crianza (M.Bujanda), +356089, $13.95: 15 months in US and French oak, one of the better buys at the LCBO on general listing. * Chardonnay 2001 Penedes (Sumarroca), $ 10.55, from Rubaiyat 416-462-1577, special order: one of the few white wines I liked today, free-run juice, nice and bright and light. Quite tasty, not toasty.. Other great wines I tried had extremely limited availability or high prices. Good quality came from Zuleta Las Senoras Oloroso sherry (Celebrated Cellars), Estancia Piedra Toro 2000 ($25.70 from Conoval), the Muga line from Torion Trading (a variety of reservas back to 1994), Bodegas Palacio Rioja from Trilogy, and the fabulous sherries and brandies of Bodegas Fernando de Castilla (Trilogy). MONDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2002 -- The broad, sprawling South African wine show happened at the Fairmount Royal York's Ontario Room, the day before VinExpo opened in New York City. Although Toronto's show went through to six PM, a lot of principals/directors had to catch a 7 PM flight to New York, which meant leaving by 4 PM in order to pre-clear customs and wait in line, etc. Nvertheless, I did manage to meet many South Africans in the early part of the show. As there were hundreds of wines, I could not taste them all. As usual, Lamprecht International and Wineworld had the most choice in quality, style and prices. Here were some of my favourites, with my usual short notes (it's tough to be descriptive in a walk-around): * Beyerskloof Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $18-20, try Maxxium 416-535-7899: soft, fruity, almost Californian. * Boschendal Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $20, RKW Imports 905-569-6115: very fruity, forward. Private order. * Bowe Joubert Chenin Blanc (Oaked) 2001, $12, DS Sutherland 416-494-8690: aged six months in oak, lightly toasted flavours but acidic finish. * Bowe Joubert Chardonnay 2001, $18: soft fruit, good oak on palate. * Bowe Joubert Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $17: dryish, dusty, but stuck with me. * Groenland Shiraz 2000, $15.95 from Maxxium: off-dry character. * Darling Cellars Onyx Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $17, from Lamprecht International 416-421-3908: delicious all round package of fruit. * Delheim Chardonnay Sur Lie 2001, $14.30 Vintages: brimming with fruit/oak. * Delheim Grand Reserve 1999, $28, from Wineworld 416-487-7147: mostly cabernet sauvignon, with 5% merlot. Tight, needs time, but structure is there. * De Wetshof Chardonnay d'Honneur 2001, $38, Maxxium: award winner, top-of- the-line model, one year on oak. Excellent performer. * Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $13.95, consignment from PMA, 905-820-4117: soft, fruity, engaging finish. Good price. * Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Merlot 1999 ($24) and Unfiltered Shiraz 2000 ($14.35) from PMA: both were deep, dense, and delicious. * Franschhoek Forge Mill Sauvignon Blanc 2002, from Hobbs at 416-694-3689: off-dry, soft, approachable. * Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $13.95, Vintages in December, from The Case for Wine 416-482-0241: excellent finish and development, great value for the price. * Laborie Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $12.40 from Maxxium: very grassy. Personal. * Lammershoek Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Barrique 2001, $15.85 from Wineworld: soft and fruity, good palate components but off-dry finish. * Linton Park Chardonnay 1999, $19.50, from Lamprecht International: full and firm, good lingering finish. * Meerlust Chardonnay 1998, $39.95 from PMA: pricey but worth it -- an excellent all round beverage at this price level... * Remhoogte Merlot 2000, $27 from Lamprecht International: nicely aged, well-developed, almost over the top. * Rustenberg Estate Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2002, $12.95, coming to Vintages in March 2003: good finish, well-rounded on the palate. * Seidelberg Chardonnay 2002, $15.45, from Connoisseur Wines 905-508-7054: very engaging, long finish. * Steenberg Merlot 2001, $23.50 from Wineworld: soft, fruity, woodsy too. Spicey, cloves. * Steenberg Catharina 1999, $27.05 from Wineworld: good aging already, good for restaurants, developing well. * Warwick Estate Trilogy 1999, $36 from Hobbs: half cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 5% cabernet franc, and 100% delicious in a distinctive Bordeaux style, with that European tightness. Needs time. * Whalehaven Chardonnay 2000, $18.50 from Lamprecht International: oak- matured, leading to some off-dry wood sweetness on the finish. * Whalehaven Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $18.50 from Lamprecht: a bit tight and tannic but developing good cassis tones. Needs aging. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2002 -- "A Sonoma Wine Affair" came to town, after stops in Vancouver and Montreal. Sponsored by the Sonoma County Wineries Association, with charitable proceeds to go to Arts Etobicoke and Arts Umbrella, the trade tasting was held in the Arcadian Court, mid-day. At 1:15 there was an engaging seminar "Exploring the Appellations of Sonoma County", wherein participants discussed the impact of growing location on wines (there are 13 BATF-approved AVA regions in Sonoma), followed by a tasting led by Nick Frey, Executive Director of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association. As always, there was a fine spread of cheeses and pates and breads. I spent an hour at the show; I did not taste every wine (see above for earlier notes). Product availability is determined by Vintages/Classics purchases, Consignment, Private Orders. Here are some quick impressions about the wines I did like: * Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 ($75, Vintages in December): plush and lush miles away from readiness. * Chateau Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Alexander Valley (price NA): dense * Clos du Bois Chardonnay 2001 Sonoma: firm but as ripe as other years. * Grove Street Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Alexander Valley ($30): black fruit. * Hanna Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 Bismark Ranch ($90): 15.1% alcohol, hot on palate, but fruity finish. * Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 Single Vineyard Buckeye Vineyard ($70); yummy, and ready soon. * Pedroncelli Zinfandel 2000 Mother Clone ($18.90): jammy * Pedroncelli Merlot 1999 Bench Vineyard ($17.85): good value for softness. * Pellegrini Family Merlot 2000 Cloverdale Ranch: 14.1% alc, off-dry, fruity. * St.Francis Chardonnay 2001 ($25): balanced fruit and wood tones * St.Francis Zinfandel 2000 Old Vines ($42): great jammy texture FRIDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2002 -- Luis Pato (aka "the Gaja of Bairrada") from Portugal was in town, to celebrate his wines at a dinner put on by his Ontario agents, FWP Trading at -- where else? -- Chiado. 50 hectares are in production in the Bairrada region, principally the rugged and rustic red Baga, some Cabernet Sauvignon, and Touriga Nacional. About half the crop are "late picked", and it shows in the dense, ripe flavours. Local white varieties, about 30% of the production, include Maria Gomes and a half-dozen others. He makes a sparkler from Maria Gomes, and we enjoyed it with some fresh cheese and pepper dice. For comparison, we also had a sparkling Baga, a blanc de noirs. Both are $15 each. Maria Gomes, done as an MC, showed green apples with some depth, good length, and body. Baga, with a slight rose colour, had strawberries on the nose, and was off-dry in the mid-palate. It came from 12-year old vines. Pato's Vinhas Velhas Red 2000 ($28) was an old vines Baga, about 80 years old, very heavily tannic. It went with the seafood salad on frisee, but between bites, not with the bite. It still needs time to resolve. My favourite wine of the evening was the Vinha Barrosa 2001 ($42) which had a warm oak nose, a bit hot on the palate, tannic length, and needed food. Black fruit dominated the aromas. A lovely wine. Skate and risotto, followed by stuffed quail on greens and chorizo completed the savouries. It was basically mix and match at this point, with three more reds coming out. Vinha Pan 2000 ($42) came from young baga vines, it was a bit light, but it went well with the skate, using its high acid finish to meld with the food. Vinha Barrosa 2000 ($42) was simply deep and delicious, tannic but with a medium finish. Vinha Barrio 2000 ($42) was plummy, but was still closed at this point. It will open up later. The meal concluded with a variety of fruit and chocolate cakes, plus some attractive sauces. Luis Pato's wine should appeal to a wide range of Portuguese wine collectors, and should be considered for your cellar. MONDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2002 -- Back to the Arcadian Court, which is fast becoming a popular venue for mid-range wine trade tastings. "A Tasting of Port Wines" was the Port Wine Institute's 2nd annual Toronto port wine tasting for trade professionals and wine media. There were some 28 port houses on display, with most having a full range of (some) whites, rubies, LBVs, tawnies of all sorts, and vintaged ports. 14 Principals came. There was a buffet lunch for the pourers and the press, as well as mounds of blue and other cheeses, breads, and chocolates to die for. As I did last year, I started with palate-friendly tawnies of all sorts, did lunch, and went back for the vintage ports. I had no time for rubies, LBVs, whites. Despite the fact that 80% of port production is directed to rubies, only 1.5% are vintage ports, and Canada seems to consume a huge quantity -- in relation to the rest of the world -- of Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) ports. My palate was dead by this time. And I had other tastings to go to afterwards!! Here are some notes, based on my impressions of my favourites at the tasting: * Graham's Vintage Port 2000 ($92): black fruit, anise, lush, ready soon. * Quinta do Noval Vintage Port (+348557, $90): cassis, cedar, spices. * Warre's Vintage Port 2000 (+633248, $79): raspberry, tannins on finish. * Dow's Vintage Port (+633057, $79): aromatic nose, intense flavours * Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2000 ($60): medium all the way in everything * Gould Campbell Vintage Port 2000 (+633107, $60): chocolate dominates, tight. * Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 2000 (+633115, $88): dense, packed, underbrush tones, years away from readiness. * Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port 2000 ($58): tarry, prune-dried fruit tones. * Quarles Harris Vintage Port 2000 ($60): black fruit all the way, forward. * Ferreira Vintage Port 2000 ($68): anise, large body, more black fruit. * Ramos Pinto Vintage 2000 ($71.65): forward, toasty wood, ready soon. * Quinta de Ventozelo Vintage Port 2000 ($80): vaguely sweet, not cloyingly so * Churchill's Vintage Port 2000 ($80): cedar, black fruit, anise, integrated. * Fonseca Vintage Port 2000 ($126): full and vibrant, concentrated, pricey * Quinta do Portal Vintage Port 2000 ($76): broad tones, tight and tannic. Other Vintage Ports that were available (and that I enjoyed) included Quinta do Infantado 1983 (+964270, $63), Offley 1987, Borges 1963 ($380), Borges 1970 ($383), Borges 1982 ($164), Taylor 1997 (+702357, $99.95), Porto Pocas 1996 ($41), Calem 1983, Guimaraens 1986 ($63.45, Vintages in November), and Sandeman Vau 1997 ($52). Tawnies were available in many different styles. Here were my favourites: Graham's 10 year (+206508, $27.95 on General List), Quinta do Noval 10 year (+954503, $30 at Vintages) - some dramatic intensity Quinta do Noval 20 year ($60, Classics): delicious fruit, walnuts Offley Colheita 1980 ($27), one of the most delicious wines in the show Offley Colheita 1987 ($26.85, Vintages): bright and cheerful, long length Messias 10 year ($25.55): good grip and off-dry Messias 20 year ($48.65): great length, walnuts in finish Ferreira 20 year ($68): great depth Royal Oporto 20 year (+704700, $24.95 for 375mL): good but hot finish, lighter style Delaforce His Eminence's Choice 10 year (+282392, $12.95 375 mL): good length, more walnuts. Delaforce Curious & Ancient 20 year ($60): developing, tangerines. Taylor's Century of Port: 10 year (+121749, $29.95 Vintages Essentials, 20 year (+149047, $59.95 Vintages Essentials), 30 year ($149), 40 year ($199): it was a treat to taste these tawnies, one after another. For most people, the 20 year old would be magnificent, but there was lovely aging in the older ones. Quinta de Ventozelo 10 years ($40) Quinta de la Rosa "Tonel 12" 10 year ($31.95) Porto Pocas 10 year ($27): good finish but hot, soft, affordable. Calem range of 10 year, 20, and 30: mainly full and ripe, the 20 was smoothest, The range and availability is totally dependent on what can be imported through mixed orders, provincial monopoly purchases, private orders-consignment-classics -vintages in Ontario. It is best to call the Instituto do Vinho do Porto in Canada at 1-877-710-PORT (7678) for details. MONDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2002 -- The Cool Climate Oenology and Viticultural Institute at Brock University offered the Ontario Wine Society an unprecedented opportunity: a tasting of Ontario wines from their Canadian Wine Library. The wines had been acquired and stored by CCOVI; the Library is an incorporated, permanent, revolving collection of VQA wines judged ageable by the directors of the Library. It is to be used by the industry for promotional, research and educational purposes. This night was a wonderful learning opportunity for the OWS to see how grapes from stronger and weaker vintages age in the bottle. The varietal tonight was Riesling, one of the premier vinifera grapes grown in Ontario with an extensive track record. Directors present included Tony Aspler, Peter Gamble (co-chair and wine consultant), and John Pierre Colas (winemaker at Peninsula Ridge). They commented on each of the wines...As usual, Chris Boland of Tasting Rooms provided a delicious selection of appetizers to complement the wines... Here were the wines, with an indication of my favourites: * Strewn Riesling Reserve 1994 * Henry of Pelham Riesling 1994, my fourth rated wine: herby nose, high acid palate, Bench mineral character, zesty, long citric finish. Needs food. * Cave Spring Riesling Reserve 1995 (madeirized, a second bottle less so) * Lakeview Riesling 1995, my third choice: typical riesling, good vibrancy, grapefruit. Held up well. From an exceptional year. * VP Cellars Riesling 1996 * Hillebrand Trius Riesling 1996, my fifth choice: broad flavours, almost off-dry, some dropoff in the acid levels. * Pillitteri Riesling 1997 * Thirty Bench Dry Riesling 1997, my first choice: good all round intense riesling flavours, some anise, good depth and length. * Stoney Ridge Riesling Reserve 1998, my second choice:off-dry, suggestive of cheese and lemons, needs food. * Inniskillin Riesling Reserve 1998 (off flavours, two bottles tried). There were many, many questions about the wines, about rieslings, about CCOVI, vintages, and the Ontario wine scene in general. A great idea for a tasting! Let's hope it becomes annual: we can work our way through all of the varietals. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2002 -- The 4th annual portfolio tasting of Cave Spring Cellars (905-562-3581, info@cavespringcellars.com) was held at the Princess Lounge of the Princess of Wales Theatre. Accompanying the wines were a variety of cheeses that are served at On the Twenty Restaurant, such as Ermitage, Parmesan, Asiago, Cheddar. It was a walkaround show, with plenty of opportunity to talk to Angelo Pavan, the winemaker. Here were some highlights: * Cave Spring Cellars Riesling 2000 Off-Dry (+234583, $11.95 General List): showed intense flavours. It is aging well, and is very useful as a sipper. Nice Ontario riesling complexity. * Cave Spring Cellars Riesling 2000 CSV (+566026, $25 Winery only): made from the oldest riesling vines (25 years or more) at the Cave Spring Vineyard. Off- dry in flavour, more so than usual, showing fine strength from the lees aging. * Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay 2000 Reserve (+256552, $19.95 Vintages Essential): texture is firm -- body, development, great finish. Made from a single block of 22 year old vines at the Cave Spring Vineyard. For comparison, to show aging potential, we also sampled some 1999 and 1998 reserves, still available in small lots at the winery. * Cave Spring Cellars Chardonnay CSV (+529941, $35 Winery only): rich and buttry, made from 25 year old vines at the CSV. * Cave Spring Cellars Gewurztraminer 2000 (+302059, $14.95 Winery only): solid Alsatian contender, better with some bottle age. Best wine of the show, using any "Quality/Price Ratio" you want for value. * Cave Spring Cellars Cabernet/Merlot 2000 (+407270, $15.95 General List): juicy, developing very well, with strong Cabernet flavours and some herbs. Should hold nicely...(Cabernet Franc 52%/Cab.Sauvignon 29%/Merlot 19%) * Cave Spring Cellars Merlot 2000 (+235051, $15.95 Vintages): soft, fruity, approachable, developing well but medium finish. * Cave Spring Cellars Cabernet/Merlot 1999 Estate (+316943, $18.95 Vintages): 51% Cabernet Sauvignon/49% Merlot, grown at the Cave Spring Vineyard. Full bodied, from youngish vines (only 3 years), but should hold well. The 1998, selling for $30, was available for tasting -- it was still tight and tannic. * Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Indian Summer 2001 (+415901, $21.95 375mL, Vintages Essential): delightful sweet flavours, made from partially frozen grapes harvested in late autumn, at VQA Select Late Harvest Brix levels. Because it came in as a late harvest, it seemed mercifully-free of LBV characteristics. TASTING NOTES OF DIVERSE SAMPLES ================================ * Konzelmann Estate Riesling Traminer "Grand Reserve Classic" 2000 (+605360): low yielding vineyards produce about one bottle per vine, spicy, full-bodied, long citric finish but without typical bitterness. 12.5% alcohol. * Lakeview Cellars Chardonnay 2000 Reserve (+518043, $29.95): really good cream and butter toast complexity, with fruit to the finish. * Konzelmann Estate Chardonnay 2000 "Grande Reserve Classic" 2000 (+610022): barrel fermented creaminess, eight months aging in Nevers and Allier oak, 13% alcohol, off-dry feel. * Konzelmann Estate Riesling "Grand Reserve Classic" 2000 (+605378): a high 13% alcohol gives it a hot finish, but there are also ripe stone fruit in a corer Alsatian style (apples, lemons, good length). * Robert Skalli Merlot 2000 (D'Oc, +571042, $12.95): entry is soft and fruity but ends with enough backbone for food. Partially aged in both barrels and vats. * Vineland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($14.95): some depth and texture on the palate, although young. Needs time. * Pelee Island Cabernet Merlot 2000 (+435321, General List, $13.95): a bit off-dry, providing lush and plush fruit to the softness. * Konzelmann Estate Pinot Noir Reserve 1998 (+463141): unfiltered, barrel-aged burgundian style, with cherries, anise, dense and chunky (you can see it), and some vanilla from the wood. * Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir Rserve 2000 (+530477, $19.95): American oak aging for about 18 months, dark and tannic, still needs time to be resolved. 13% alcohol. Match it with Henry of Pelham's in three years... * Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 (+618793, $29.95): also available in half-litres (500 mL) for $19.95, a great size for one or just two people as part of a larger meal. But you're going to have to wait to appreciate it. It is very tight, but it has an inner core of fruit that will need a bit of time to come out, say three - four more years. * Pelee Island Late Harvest Vidal 2000 (+594184, $9.95 General List): with a sweetness of SC=4, and available as a full bottle at this very reasonable price, you may want to try it as a mixer with fresh unsweetened fruit juices. I've had it with fresh crushed cranberry juice, and it makes a marvelous aperitif.. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY, JANUARY, 2002 ===================================== by Dean Tudor, , Gothic Epicures TUESDAY, JANUARY 8, 2002 -- After many years in another location, the wine press media pre-view of the Pacific Northwest Wine Fair took shape at Reds Bistro & Bar. Forefront Communications, the organizer of the events, laid on a terrific lunch after the tasting, showing off favourite wines plus a few not tasted in the preview blind tasting itself. Scallop salad, duck breast and confit of leg, and a lemon semifreddo were accompanied by St.Innocent Chardonnay 2000 Seven Springs Dijon Clone and Rex Hill Chardonnay 1999 Willamette, as well as our vinous personal choices. I made mine from Gordon Brothers (Washington State), probably the overall winner of the "contest" to find the best wines at affordable prices (see notes below). The press tasted about 45 wines from the show, leaving about 55 more to sample at the show itself. All wines were served blind but in flights of varietals: pinot gris, pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon. Some of my notes: * Pinot Gris 2000 Columbia Valley (Hogue Cellars, now Vincor-owned and hence repped by Atlas Wine Merchants), $18: fragrant nose, lingering acid on palate, some wood tones of vanilla and spices. * Pinot Gris 1999 Oregon (Rex Hill; repped by DuChasse/Barrique), $18: apples, brown sugar and caramel on the nose, good body and promising acid. * Pinot Gris 2000 Oregon (Firesteed Cellars; repped by Select Wine Merchants), $19.95: fragrant nose, but aptly described by Wine-X as "having a crush on your grade school teacher -- apples, pears, spice and some chalk dust". US price is $12. * Pinot Noir 1999 Willamette Valley (Sokol Blosser; repped by Peter Mielzynski Agencies), $55: wood on the nose, tannins on the palate, some good vanilla finish, obviously needs time, so lay it down. * Pinot Noir 2000 Oregon (Adelsheim Vineyard; repped by DuChasse/Barrique), $29.95: gamey nose, sortof barnyard, but much pleasant fruit in a long length to the finish. * Pinot Noir 1999 Oregon Jacob Hart (Rex Hill; repped by duChasse/Barrique), $70: broad fruit, sweet and low acid finish, enjoyable, but oh that price... * Pinot Noir Reserve 1998 Oregon (King Estate; repped by Authentic), $34.95: good value for what it delivered, lots of fruit upfront and a full- fruity finish, enjoyable now. * Merlot 1998 Columbia Valley (Chateau Ste.Michelle; repped by Mark Anthony), $27: modest fruit, but suggestion of velveeta smoothness on the palate, good finish. A sipper for sure. * Merlot 1999 Columbia Valley (Gordon Brothers), $35: some wood and caramel on the nose, exceptionally broad, mouthcoating fruit on the palate, and a long full length, for food accompaniment. One of the better wines of the tasting. * Merlot 1998 Columbia Valley (Columbia Winery; repped by Dionysus Wines and Spirits), $25.95: lots of new wood on the nose, fruit and acid race in balance to the finish, but some tart acid in the length. * Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Columbia Valley (Gordon Brothers), $37: surprisingly, some cherries in the fruit, but exceptionally good mouthfeel and a long length, chocolate, etc. One of the better wines of the tasting. * Parallel 46 1998 Columbia Valley (Powers Winery), $40: an older nose in the complexity, suggesting also that this is a Meritage style wine, light but tannic finish, well-worth keeping. WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2002 -- Inniskillin held their 1998 Reserve Red Portfolio tasting at Patriot (well-known for serving Canadian food and wine), in mid-afternoon. Karl Kaiser, main winemaker, was along, to comment on the wines. 1998 was one of the four great red wine vintages in Ontario (the others: 1991, 1995, and 1999 [not yet released]), with soft ripe tannins, firm alcohol levels around 13%, and cellaring potential. After recapping the climatic conditions, Karl noted that the 1998 harvest was early -- September 4 -- finishing by mid-October, and surrounded with fine sunny days and cool nights. The Reserve Red portfolio comprises three pinot noirs, a cabernet franc, and a meritage. But before the official tasting, we sampled two Inniskillin Okanagan wines, a Pinot Blanc 1999 ($12.15) and a Meritage 1997 ($19.15). Both were full and fruity, very difficult to stay away from, easy and forward to sip. Platters of food were delivered (roast beef and eggplant, salmon, pates, cheeses) but most people wisely waited until after the Reserves were tasted. Here are some notes: * Pinot Noir 1998 Reserve +529370, $16.95 retail: mostly from the Montague Estate Vineyard, aged 17 months in French oak, soft, fruity, medium finish. A very warm wine, excellent value. Some cheese complexity. * Pinot Noir 1998 Montague Vineyard +559310, $29.95 retail: from a separate block of the Montague Estate, aged 16 months in French Alliers oak. More tannic and not as approachable as the Reserve, but interesting nonetheless. Some cheese complexity. * Pinot Noir 1998 Founders +529388, $34.95 retail: another selection from the Montague property, aged 15 months in specially coopered French oak, prior to a barrel by barrel personal selection of the "assemblage". More soft and fruity than expected, more suggestions of underbrush, good length. Winner of "Best Pinot Noir -- Cuvee 2001". * Cabernet Franc 1998 Reserve +557264, $18.95 retail: top grapes at harvest from the Seeger and Van de Laar Vineyards, aged 16 months in French oak. Soft, forward, approachable, great value. Winner of "Gold Medal & Best Canadian Cabernet Franc, Canadian Wine Awards, November 2001". * Meritage 1998 Reserve +557272, $16.95: 60% merlot, 35% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% cabernet franc were vinified separately and aged individually for 16 months in 80% French oak (rest, US), from seven different vineyards. Soft and fruity from the merlot, probably the best wine value of the group, displaying many attributes of coffee and chocolate. Well-integrated fruit, but will peak early. Winner "Gold Medal, Top '98 Bordeaux Blend, Air Ontario Awards 2001". More details from Atlas Wine Merchants (Carole Quinney, 1-888-702-8527, ext.337) SATURDAY, JANUARY 19, 2002 -- The annual media preview for Cuvee 2002 was again held at Tasting Rooms from mid-morning on, with well-over 240 wines being tasted. It was not possible to do great justice to all of them, but there were several clear standouts. I did not taste all the wines available to me, so these wines noted below are not necessarily the best wines at Cuvee 2000. Some wineries wer absent from this pre-tasting, e.g., Creekside, D'Angelo, Thomas and Vaughan. Surprisingly, there were only TWO corked bottles in the lot, and about three more that had other defects. My notes for the wines showing well (most are available only at the winery): * Gewurztraminer/Riesling 2000 (Birchwood Estate; $9.95), which also had some 15% morio muscat added. Unoaked. Good balance of body, fruit and acid, finishing soft. * Cabernet Merlot 1998 (Cave Spring; $30), half cabernet franc, 30% merlot, 20% cab. sauvignon, blended prior to barrel aging (US and French oak, 16 months). Showed superior flavour and depth of concentration. * Equuleus 1998 Paul Bosc Estate (Chateau des Charmes; $24.95), 53% cab. sauvignon, 34% franc, 13% merlot, aged one year in French oak, a steal at this price. Meritage, Bordeaux-style, but needs time to cellar. * Chardonnay Reserve 1999 (Cilento; $29.95), barrel-fermented, malo-lactic fermentation in the barrels, sur lie matured. Excellent depth of character, good creaminess and butter, long enjoyable finish. * Grace 1999 (Cilento; $39.95), Meritage style, aged in both French and US oak before blending, and then more oak aging. Pruney and jammed, ready soon. * Chardonnay No Oak 2001 (Cilento; $10.95 +510255 General List), no wood contact. Bright, full-bodied, apples and lemons on the finish. * Chardonnay Old Vines 2000 American Oak (Daniel Lenko; $19.95), excellent balance already, some coconut showing. One of the best buys in Ontario. * Cabernet Franc 1999 (Daniel Lenko; $24.95), ripe, rich and firm. Best with food. * Merlot Old Vines 1999 (Daniel Lenko; $24.95), with 5% cabernet franc added. One of my favourite reds of the preview. * Viognier 2000 (Daniel Lenko; $19.95), floral nose, excellent fruit on the palate, with a long demanding complex length. One of the best white wines at the preview. * Chardonnay Unoaked 2000 (EastDell; $10.95 at LCBO), rounded harmonious nose, good body, finishes off-dry. * Chardonnay 2000 Barrel Fermented (Featherstone; $14.95), 70% fermented in new French oak, malolactic fermentation, barrel aged for 6 months. Good all-round chardonnay, can sip or quaff. Fruit plus finishing acid, lovely price. * Cabernet-Merlot 1998 Speck Family Reserve (Henry of Pelham; $50), long maceration of a month, all new French oak for two years, unfiltered. A dynamite package, full of bordeaux charm, alas at bordeaux prices... * Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (Henry of Pelham; $12.95 Vintages), some wood tones but blended and bottled early, not as nervous as the New Zealand style, an excellent version at this price level. * Chardonnay 1999 Showcase Unfiltered (Hillebrand; $35), blowsy, full bore oaked chardonnay, but with a sweet finish. 14% alcohol. * Chardonnay 1999 Founders' Reserve (Inniskillin; $29.95), fermented and aged sur lie in French oak, light and elegant, needs time to open up, hot finish from 14% alcohol. * Chardonnay 2000 Proprietor's Grand Reserve (Jackson-Triggs; $16.95), barrel and malolactic fermentations, nine months aging in French oak, a full wine, stuffing, lots of wood tones, and a great price. * Merlot 1999 Grand Reserve (Konzelmann; $42.95), with 14 months aging in new French oak, lots of black fruit and an off-dry, tannic finish. * Gewurztraminer 1999 Late Harvest Medium Dry (Konzelmann; $13.95 Vintages), excellent Alsatian quality, slight bitterness and spices on the finish. * Merlot 2000 (Lailey Vineyard; $35), free run wine only, aged in French oak with malolactic fermentation. Good bordeaux complexity already, may be ready soon for drinking. * Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Lakeview Cellars, $24.95 Vintages), extended skin maceration plus a year in US oak. Dusty notes dominate, approachable bright fruit. May be ready sooner than later. * Meritage 1999 (Maleta Vineyards; $24.95), half cabernet sauvignon, 30% franc, rest merlot, with a year and a half in new French and US oak. Good Bordeaux-style, may need some time in cellar. * Chardonnay 1999 Reserve (Maleta Vineyards; $18.95), seven months in new US oak, shows some good stuffing. But clean, aromatic, and typically forward. * Chardonnay 1999 Moira Vineyard (Malivoire; $35.95), half barrel fermented with eight months lees contact in French oak. Dense, chunky, chewy, very good. * Chardonnay 2000 (Malivoire; $21.95 Vintages), half barrel fermented with six months lees contact in French oak. Graceful, fruity, elegantly honest. * Chardonnay 2000 Barrel Fermented "A" (Marynissen; $16), in new US oak (hence, the "A"; there is also an "F" for French oak), left on lees for six months, 12.7% alcohol. Supple, vital, characteristic, some hot finish. * Chardonnay 2000 Barrel Fermented "F" (Marynissen; $18.95), in new French oak, also left on the lees for six months. More warm and inviting, smooth, stylish. I assume the three dollar difference reflects the cost of the barrel, which is about twice the US price. * Chardonnay 1999 Sur Lie Signature (Andrew Peller; $28), barrel fermented and aged 374 days in 94% French oak and 6% US oak, with total malolactic. Soft and creamy, hedonistic, a bit suave. * Chardonnay 2000 Reserve (Peninsula Ridge; $39.95), fermented and aged in new French oak plus full malolactic fermentation. Full cream, stimulating, vital, roundly serious. * Chardonnay 2000 (Peninsula Ridge; $12.95 +594200 General List), 30% fermented in French oak, malolactic fermentation, and ten months in oak; 70% aged in stainless steel with full malolactic. Possibly the best value in Ontario chardonnay on the LCBO's General List. A junior version of the Reserve. * Triomphe Chardonnay 1998 (Southbrook; $17.95), a year in 80% new Never/Vosges oak, ten months on the lees, full malolactic fermentation. Excellent depth and concentration of flavours. * Cabernet Franc 2000 Reserve, Fox Vineyard (Stoney Ridge; $22.95), aged in French oak for a year, full, firm, jammy, good value. Best with food. * Chardonnay 2000 Bench (Stoney Ridge; $11.95), barrel fermented, barrel aged for a year, lots of body, fruit and oaking. Excellent for the price. * Cabernet Franc 1999 (Strewn; $17.95), cropped 3 tons per acres, aged in oak for 11 months. Very good European complexity, good balance shows. * Sauvignon Blanc 2000 (Willow Heights; $12.95), herby, and spot on with food. Lovely wine, very enjoyable. * Tresette Reserve 1999 (Willow Heights; $24.95), 65% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, rest merlot, a year in US oak. A dynamite version of California Meritage, at half the price. Not a sipper, needs food. The sweet wines and sparklers were held over to a Wine Writers' Circle regular meeting, January 27, 2002 (see below)... SUNDAY, JANUARY 27, 2002 -- Ontario ice wines were tasted at a regularly scheduled business meeting of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, in the Museum Room at LCBO Store 217 (Queens Quay). The Circle had assembled some 40 ice wines from the years 1998, 1999 and 2000, plus some assorted sweeties and sparklers from the Cuvee 2002 inventory. To my tastes, the outstanding ice wine was the Cuesta Estates Gewurztraminer 1999 -- in the clear bottle. Mounds of spices and butterscotch, with long long off-dry length. Indeed, most of the Gewurztraminers performed very well, such as the offerings from Cilento 1999, Pillitteri 1999, and Royal DeMaria 1999. Almost on a par with the Rieslings. The best of the Rieslings were those from Cave Spring 1999, Chateau des Charmes 1999, and Thirty Bench 1999 and 2000. Cabernet Franc ice wines remain curiosities; they have a flavour too close to strawberry. You can buy comparable strawberry wines for a lot less money. Royal DeMaria continues to perform well with its portfolio of ice wines from different grapes: pinot gris, chardonnay, gewurztraminer, riesling, vidal, and gamay. The Gamay 2000 was a better, more intense effort than other wineries Cabernet Franc. MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2002 -- Auberge du Pommier was the site of a media Grand Marnier luncheon. M. Philippe Chenu, International Director of External Relations, spoke on the creation of liqueurs (how liqueurs can be used to create fashionable new drinks, how liquers can be used in meals, competitive knockoffs, etc.). And as well we enjoyed the chef's tasting menu for the Marnier-Lapostelle family. Aperitifs were Pineau des Charentes from Marnier, offered in various ways (eg, straight, on the rocks, sparkling cocktail, etc.). For openers we had baked artichoke hearts stuffed with French chevre cheese on arugula, plus black olives, capers and tomatoes. With it we had Chateau de Sancerre 2000, a sauvignon blanc wine from the Loire, with good mineral complexity and flavours, comparable to Chablis in that this Loire wine would be fabulous with seafood. Ultimately, though, a soft finish...The next course was roasted Atlantic halibut with a sweetbread and honey mushroom fricasses in a tarragon sauce, asian eggplant slices, peas. And the wine was a Chardonnay 1999 Cuvee Alexandre Casa Lapostelle (about $22) from Casablanca Valley in Chile. It was phenomenal, being done in a French style like Chablis -- but with more nuances of oak and very much a structured backbone. It begged comparison with the Sancerre, which of course I kept for that very reason, to also try with the halibut. We paused for the red, a $55 US Clos Apalta 1999 from Chile's Rapel Valley. Old vines (60 - 100 years old) from carmenere, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot grapes. Fermentation in French oak, aging in French oak for 18 months. Lots of spices and complexity, unfiltered, much like a pomerol. Black fruits and vanilla dominate, cedar and cassis on the nose, along with a brisk finish. Lay it down for five more years. Dessert? Obviously it had to be a Grand Marnier Souffle, with biscotti and ground cherries. And with it we had three kinds of Grand Marnier, starting with the Cuvee Louis-Alexandre (+525261, $69.95) which was created just recently in 1998 (wood tones and much bitter oranges). Next was the Cuvee du Centenaire 1827-1927 (+108704, $124.80), a special edition using cognacs aged up to 25 years (rich aromas carried through by the cognac on the finish). The third was the spectacular Cuvee Speciale Cent cinquantenaire 1827-1977 (+94649, $199.95), an opulent creation with graceful rare cognac reserves, always served neat. Did they go well with the Grand Marnier souffle? You bet...For more details, contact Jennifer Alexander of Peter Mielzynski Agencies, 905-820-4117. TUESDAY, JANUARY 29, 2002 -- Pacific Northwest Wine Fair Day, at Roy Thomson Hall, beginning with two good informative seminars. The first compared Washington Cabernet blends with California cabernet blends; the second compared Oregon Pinot Noir with Burgundy. Along for the structured tastings were principals and representatives from Gordon Brothers, Hedges, Powers, Pepper Bridge, St.Innocent, Amity and Oak Knoll