AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR DECEMBER AND NOVEMBER 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com November was a little crowded this year, so I spread some activities out into the December column. SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH A. From Inniskillin Winery: -Inniskillin 2007 Two Vineyards Riesling ($17.95, Vintages Jan 31/09) – this is the first of two wines in the new Winemaker’s Series. Twist top, from two select vineyards in Niagara, 11% ABV, characteristically Riesling, very good cool style. -Inniskillin 2007 Three Vineyards Chardonnay ($17.95, Vintages Jan 31/09) – this is the other new Winemaker’s Series release, coming from three vineyards in Niagara, 13%, using both US and French oak. It shows Ontario perfume and brightness, with added aromas of pear and toast, nice buttery finish. *Inniskillin Cabernet Franc 2006 Reserve ($18.95 Vintages Jan 31/09) – has deep black fruit and plums, broad tones, more merlot in character, and ready soon. 12.5% ABV. *Inniskillin 2006 Meritage Reserve ($17.95 Vintages Feb. 28th, 2009) – is classic Right Bank ratio of 70 Merlot and 30 Franc, lots of black berries (black cherry, blueberry, blackberry), with a long and currently austere finish. 13% ABV. B. From Piera Martellozzo (Giovello) Veneto, repped by Diamond Estates: - Giovello Prosecco Spumante VSAQ Extra Dry, $15.85 GL, +85316: greenish tones, but orchard fruit (pears, apples) spread around biscuits and bread. Excellent aperitif or party wine. 11% ABV. -Piera Martellozzo Rose Terre Magre: Consignment program. High rose colour, with exceptional floral bouquet of red fruits (rasp, strawbs, and cherries). Longer finish than anticipated. Good aperitif wine. 12% ABV. C. From Mission Hill Winery, Okanagan, Legacy Series (selected grapes, hand harvested and sorted, gravity fed, small barrel lots): -Mission Hill Perpetua Chardonnay 2006 Okanagan, +220052, $32.95: three clones from one vineyard, some of it is BF in new French oak, aged sur lie, and stirred by hand bi-weekly. The hazelnut component makes it Burgundian in style, finishing with creamy orchard fruit and minerality. -Mission Hill Quatrain 2005 Okanagan, +220045, $47.95: BF from a good year, about 57% merlot, 28% syrah (no SLC Syrah from 2005: it all went here), 10% cabernet franc, 5% cabernet sauvignon. Underbrush but ripe tones with some dust-chalk for complexity, finishing with merlot-like plumminess and mocha. ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 20, 2008 6PM to 9PM The Event: the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, VIP night The Venue: Metro Toronto Convention Centre The Target Audience: wine press, wine trade, private insiders. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, especially with an onsite LCBO store which carried most of the offerings. The Quote/Background: I use the show to catch up with New York wines, and some select suppliers who do not have a portfolio tasting, and the theme country (this year, France). I find that I can just barely get though the evening…there are so many wines, and so little time. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine de la Paulette Cote de Nuits-Villages Blanc 2007, $33.50 (Nokhrin Wines) -Domaine de la Paulette Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 2005, $74 (Nokhrin Wines) -La Maison Pierrel Champagne Tradition Brut Rose, $55 (Nokhrin Wines) -Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002, $24.95 Vintages -Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc A.J. Lepp Vineyard, $18.95 Vintages -Domaine Herve Seguin Pouilly Fume 2007, +81414 $25.95 (MCO) -Domaine Sorin Rose 2007 Provence, +71191, $16.95 (MCO) -Rene Mure Gewurztraminer 2006 Alsace, +61218, $16.95 (MCO) -Beckett’s Flat Shiraz 2004 Margaret River, +585869, $23.95 (MCO) -Dornier Wines Donatus Red 2004, +606020, $26.95 (MCO) -d’Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier, +936971, $27.75 Vintages -Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, +255513, $37.75 -Casa Silva Los Lingues Gran Reserva Carmenere Chile, +59477, $17.75 -Franciscan Estates Napa Valley Chardonnay California, +496125 $24.75 Vintages -Simi Landslide Cabernet Sauvignon California, +67744, $44.75 Vintages -Heron Hill Chardonnay 2005 Finger Lakes NY, $17.15 (Robert Ketchin) -Wolffer Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2005 Long Island $31.05 (Robert Ketchin) -Osprey Dominion Vineyards Meritage 2005 Long Island $49.95 (Robert Ketchin) -Wolffer Estate Reserve Merlot 2004 Long Island $36.20 (Robert Ketchin) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chateau de Grand Moueys Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux Rouge 1999, $21 (Nokhrin Wines) -Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva Navarra 2003, +479014, $15.75 Vintages Essentials -Willm Riesling Reserve Alsace, +11452, $16.75 Vintages Essentials -Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Urziger Goldwingert Riesling Spatlese 2006, +71142, Vintages $32.75 -Meursault de Chateau Meursault 2005, +520213, $56.75 Vintages -Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay Australia, +534974, $12.60 LCBO -Casa Silva Reserve Carmenere 2006 Chile, +24679, $14.75 Vintages -Dr.Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2007 Finger Lakes NY, $21.50 (Hobbs & Co) -Peconic Bay Riesling 2006, $25.45 (Robert Ketchin) -Brotherhood Pinot Noir 2006 Hudson River NY $18.95 +79939 Vintages *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -La Maison Pierrel Les Oressences Brut Chardonnay, $70 (Nokhrin Wines) -Pagani de Marchi Principe Guerriero 2004 Tuscany, $45 (Nokhrin Wines) -Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $14.75 LCBO -Peninsula Ridge Merlot, $14.75 LCBO -Chateau Pineraie 2005 Cahors, +78725, $15.95 (MCO) -Tapestry Wines Merlot 2005 McLaren Vale, +64063, $26.95 (MCO) -Domaine Doudet Les Guerets Aloxe Corton 2005, +66530, $44.95 (MCO) -d’Arenberg The Football Shiraz, +984021, $21.75 Vintages -Blackstone Cabernet Sauvignon California, +714816, $14.80 Vintages -Castello di Borghese Chardonnay 2006 Long Island, $24.15 (Robert Ketchin) -Lamoreaux Landing Gewurztraminer 2006, $16.85 (MCO) -Castello di Borghese Cabernet Franc 2004 Long Island, $31.90 (Robert Ketchin) The Food: mostly cheeses and breads and crackers from Churchill Cellars which had a private showing of their wines. Most of the food vendors are too busy selling their products. The Downside: it got crowded really fast, people know what to do now. The Upside: a good event to catch up with country wines such as New York State. The Contact Person: kdobrucki@townmedia.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 2. The Time and Date: Monday, November 24, 2008 1:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: The French wine connection…wines from France. The Venue: ARTCORE Gallery, Distillery District The Target Audience: wine trade. The Availability/Catalogue: ostensibly, all of the principals were seeking agents. Somehow, except for one, they already had signed on. The Quote/Background: “Good food to go with the wines.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Louise Brison Champagne Brut 2003 (Eurovintage) -Domaine de la Saveuse Cuvee Carolle Rouge 2007 Cotes de Provence (Rouge et Blanc) -Domaine de la Saveuse Cuvee Philippine Rouge 2006 Cotes de Provence (Rouge et Blanc) -Domaines Piron Morgon Cote de Py 2006 (Wine Guy) -La Passion des Terroirs Relais de Durfort-Vivens 2005 Margaux ($55, Connoisseur) -Schoenheitz Gewurztraminer Linsenberg 2007 ($31.50, Lamprecht) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Louise Brison Champagne Cuvee Tendresse Blancs de Blanc 2001 (Eurovintage) -Domaines Piron Moulin a Vent 2007 (Wine Guy) -Domaines Piron Chenas 2007 (Wine Guy) -Domaines Piron Brouilly 2007 (Wine Guy) -La Passion des Terroirs Chateau de Camarsac 2005 Bordeaux Superieur ($17.50, Connoisseur) -La Passion des Terroirs Chateau de Villegeorge 2005 Haut Medoc ($46.55, Connoisseur) -Schoenheitz Riesling Linsenberg 2007 ($25, Lamprecht) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -La Passion des Terroirs Saint Jacques de Siran 2005 Bordeaux ($19.13, Connoisseur) -La Passion des Terroirs Chateau Duplessis 2005 Moulis en Medoc($31.70, Connoisseur) -La Passion des Terroirs Chateau de Domeyne 2005 Saint Estephe ($50, Connoisseur) -Schoenheitz Riesling 2007 ($20, Lamprecht) -Schoenheitz Pinot Gris Holder 2007 ($29.50, Lamprecht) The Food: charcuterie, cheeses. Artisanal breads, etc. The Downside: there were a number of agents who wanted to sign up with wineries, but the wines were already repped. Some agents felt that their time was wasted. The Upside: a chance to see a small selection of French wines from most of the big regions of France. The Contact Person: emmanuelle.dubout@missioneco.org The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 82. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6 Pm to 8:30 PM The Event: “Passionate Pinot”, Ontario Wine Society event The Venue: Faculty Club, U of Toronto The Target Audience: members, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available, except Birchwood 2002 which was from the OWS cellars. The Quote/Background: “It’s a packed house – 90 people are supposed to be here!” Norman Hardie spoke about his passion for Pinot Noir. The Wines: most were from Ontario, but there was one apiece from New Zealand, South Africa, and California. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Allan Scott Pinot Noir 2007 Marlborough ($25.15) – this ranked as my first choice. -Angel’s Gate Winery Pinot Noir 2006 ($19.15) – best value -Norman Hardie Pinot Noir County 2007 Prince Edward County ($35) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Birchwood Estates Pinot Noir 2002 (OWS Cellars) - mature -Rosehall Run Pinot Noir 2006 Prince Edward County ($29.95) -Bouchard Finlayson Pinot Noir 2005 Galpin Peak South Africa ($43.90) – a group fave -La Crema Winery Pinot Noir 2006 Sonoma Coast ($33.15) - a group fave *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Estate 2007 ($20.15) -Tawse Winery Pinot Noir 2006 ($32.20) The Food: basic apps, pate and cheeses. Of course, the wines tasted totally different when posed against food. The Downside: I thought that there should have been either a Burgundy pinot or a New York state pinot, so we could reference the original terroir or a shared climate terroir. The three off-shore, New World wines were easy to spot because of their fruit. The Upside: I did have a hard time picking through the Ontario pinots, trying to guess which was which. I guessed at Norm Hardie because it seemed the most burgundian in style. The Contact Person: www.ontariowinesociety.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, December 3, 2008 11AM to 4PM The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord). The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn The Target Audience: wine agents. The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are available in Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta. Most of the wines were French, and there were sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. These 40 or so wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. Here were my faves, regardless of price: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine de Saint-Ser Cotes de Provence Sainte Victoire 2004 Rouge -Domaine de Saint-Ser Cotes de Provence Les Hautes de Saint-Ser 2004 Rouge -Marie Paule Dumazet Cote Rotie 2006 (18 euros Ex-cellar) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Cave St. Just Cotes de Rhone 2006 Rouge -Marie Paule Dumazet Condrieu Cote Fournet 2006 -Marie Paule Dumazet Saint Joseph 2006 La Mazolaise -Marie Paule Dumazet Cornas Cuvee Charlemagne 2005 -Chateau Fleur de Piaut Sauternes 2007 – 14%ABV, 500 mL -Chateau Fontvert Lointe Bastide 2006 Cotes de Luberon -Chateau Fontvert Souleu e Terraire 2003 Cotes de Luberon *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Cave St. Just Cotes de Rhone 2007 Rose -Cellier des Gorges De L’Ardeche 2007 (organic) -Domaine de Saint-Ser Cotes de Provence Sainte Victoire 2007 Rose -Domaine de Saint-Ser Cotes de Provence 2007 Blanc -Domaine Bouche L’Amandier 2007 Cotes du Rhone -Domaine J. Boulon Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes 2007 -Domaine J. Boulon Beaujolais Morgon 2007 The Food: none. The Downside: usually there is not enough space to sprawl out and write notes. No paper was furnished, so I used some 3 by 5 cards. The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here. The next show will be in February. The Contact Person: for prices, etc, check with Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 Noon to 2:30 PM The Event: A luncheon seminar about FOOD ROOTS (European Geographical Indication Cooperation Project). The Venue: Willard Room, Intercontinental Hotel. The Target Audience: wine and food writers, wine and food trades. The Quote/Background: The international FOOD ROOTS program seeks to promote the local food movements. It made its North American debut in Toronto today, seeking to educate the Canadian agri-food industry on the tangible benefits of promoting local and protected product. Geographical Indications (GI) highlight a territory’s product, quality and tradition. They offer increased value to food production and stimulate the economic activities of a particular region. Well-known examples include Prosciutto di Parma, Gorgonzola and Parmigiano Reggiano. There are over 4800 GIs in the EU, and this includes 4200 wines and spirits. Guest speakers included Walter Brunello (Chairman Buonitalia Spa), Pier Maria Saccani, Paol Ponti, and Fred Kingston (Senior Advisor Economic and Cultural Affairs, delegation of the EU in Canada). The emphasis is on protecting the name of the product, especially when the name is the same as the point of origin. We’ve seen all this in the wine world (e.g., Chianti, Chablis, Sauternes, Burgundy). The groups would like Canada to join in, to protect its own Geographic Indications. The Food: At lunch we had wine. Here was the menu – Prosciutto di Parma DOP and Prosciutto de San Daniele DOP with salad of ripe figs and microgreens (accompanied by Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene San Fermo 2007 (Bellenda)); Risotto di Nano Vialone Veronese IGP with radicchio, Prosecco and parmigiana Reggiano DOP (accompanied by Pinot Grigio Valdaige 2007 Santa Margherita); Italian DOP cheeses Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Asiago, Fontina); San Pellegrino; Caffe Illy. The Downside: it was overcrowded, and the wine service was out of joint. Also, the material was too introductory. The Upside: a chance to network with food people. The Contact Person: benedetta.marassi.toronto@ice.it The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, December 11, 2008 noon – 2 PM The Event: a tasting of foods at Oasi, with Calamus wines. The Venue: Oasi The Target Audience: wine writer circle executive The Availability/Catalogue: the wines were from Calamus Winery. The Quote/Background: we were gathered for an executive business meeting and to determine a menu for the upcoming Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada annual dinner, this year at Oasi in January. The Wine and Food: we had a selection from the menu, French onion soup (deeply sweet and low salt), carpaccio and foie gras salad with microgreens and truffle oil, USDA prime strip dry aged with café sauce. Wines were Calamus Half Penny Rose 2008 ($13, lively), Calamus Riesling 2007 ($17, fresh), and Calamus Meritage 2006 ($20, heavily wooded). The Contact Person: jszabo@thecva.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Monday, December 15, 2008 Noon to 3 PM The Event: a lunch-launch of new 13th Winery releases, with Doug Whitty (President), Herb Jacobson (Winemaker), and Peter Bodnar Rod (Marketing). The Venue: Vertical, 1st Canadian Place The Target Audience: wine writers, nine in attendance. The Availability: all the wines we tried were newly released, and are available at or through the winery www.13thstreetwinery.com The Background: Founded in 1998, the winery celebrated its tenth anniversary this year by being sold. The original four partners included Herb Jacobson, the continuing winemaker, who is still with the winery. On Sept 1, the Mann and Whitty families of Niagara purchased the firm, with a commitment to continue the handcrafted wines. Currently, there is capacity for 4500 cases. Eventually, with a new facility, there will be a max of 10,000 cases. They have eight scattered vineyards, totaling 60 acres, with handshake contracts for more grapes as needed. For example, they buy in all their syrah. The Wine and Food: Peter and Herb led the tasting. We started with a sparkler, and then moved to two rieslings, two chardonnays and then a Meritage. There were also other wines to sample, nearly their entire portfolio. Here are some notes: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -13th Winery Premier Cuvee 2004 $28: MC, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, no MF, first-rate sparkler with the biscuity complexity, with smoked Ontario trout atop king oyster mushroom salad, a sunschoke chip and a brioche slice. -13th Winery Funk’s Vineyard Riesling 2007 $24: Alsatian mode, minerals, best with food, with fresh goat cheese (lacked tang), frisee, hazelnut salad. -13th Winery Sandstone Old Vines Chardonnay 2006 $28: cork finish, barrel selection, full bodied, 13.2% ABV yet hot finish, lovely length. Tried with warm calamari salad and arugula. First rate match. -13th Winery Syrah Wismer Vineyard 2006 $24: Rhone all the way, but needs cellar time. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -13th Winery June’s Vineyard Riesling 2007 $17: rich, ripe body, aromatic and off-dry, with scallop and chorizo. -13th Winery Sandstone Estate Chardonnay 2006 $18: full, firm but juicy, twist top, with pan seared Branzino filet. -13th Winery Meritage 2006 $24: tight, dusty nose, medium finish. Euro- style. Tried with roasted Ontario lamb atop a multiple bean ragout. -13th Winery Gamay Sandstone Old Vines 2006 $25: juicy, young and fresh, cherries and wood, depth and body. Tried with the lamb. -13th Winery Chardonnay Musque 2007 $18: great aromas and finish, succulent, tried with biscotti. -13th Winery Et Ceteras Red 2006 $19: 46%syrah, 10%sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon also in the blend. Off-dry complexity, very Euro in style. The Contact Person: peter@13thstreetwinery.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1.Graham’s 10 Years Old Tawny, +206508, $27.95 Vintages Essentials: delightful old-style tawny port, tastes more like a 20 year old, very pale colour, delicate, elegant. Nuts, honey, dried fruit, long finish. Hard to find better value at this pricepoint. Best with cheeses. 2.Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003, +191239, $16.80 Vintages Essentials: bottled after about four years in cask, dense concentration, black pepper, lots of evolution but will take time. Some red and black fruit, moderate length. Best with dessert. A. From Chateau des Charmes VQA, 1. Sauvignon Blanc 2007 St. David’s Bench, +391300, $15.95: cork finished unlike the NOTL bottling of their sauvignon blanc. Typical MVC but greater than expected at this price level: gooseberries, nettles, herbs, citrus. Useful as aperitif and with savoury first courses. From the generally excellent 2007 vintage, it should keep for a few years as a Sancerre would. 12.5% ABV. 3523 cases made. 2. Aligote 2007 Niagara on the Lake, +284950, $13.45: uniquely grown at Chateau des Charmes. Aligote is the wine of choice in kir; it is the second white wine of Burgundy. In profile, it is a bit like chardonnay but near the sauvignon blanc end: crispy citrus-green apple. 12% ABV. 2169 cases made. 3. Gamay Noir Droit 2007 St. David’s Bench, +582353, $16.95: here is another specialty of the Bosc family. The GN Droit is so-named because the vine shoots straight up – it has been developed through clonal research, and ripens almost two weeks later than regular Gamay. Thus, there are higher sugar levels and deeper colour. It is a body and soul wine in its Gamay flavour profile. 13% ABV. 2484 cases made. B. From Inniskillin VQA and new winemaker Bruce Nicholson, who has announced four tiers: Varietal series, Reserve series, Winemaker’s series, and Founders’ series. 1. Chardonnay Varietal Series 2006, +66266, $10.95: this is a fruit- driven chardonnay, with tones of citrus and green apples, moving through to the finish. Tastes unoaked. 12% ABV. 36,000 cases made. 2. Chardonnay Reserve 2006, +317768, $15.50: some tropicality supported by vanilla from the oak aging complexity, nicely balanced on the finish. 12.5% ABV. 4200 cases made. 3. Riesling Varietal Series 2007, +837900, $12.25: MVC aromas of lean apples and lemons, some pear drops developing on the mid-palate through to the finish. 11% ABV. 5000 cases made. 4. Riesling Reserve 2007, +253278, $14.25: honeyed tones support some apples and lemons, grapefruit, long soft acid finish for food. 11.5% ABV. 1400 cases made. 5. Pinot Noir Varietal Series 2007, +261099, $14.95: red fruit tones (raspberry, cranberry, and even rhubarb) still need time to resolve. 12.5% ABV. 11,200 cases made. 6. Pinot Noir Reserve 2007, +623793, $18.25: plum has been added to the cranberry-raspberry flavours, indicating some smoky wood aging and balancing. Needs time, but should be voluptuous based on the year. 12.5% ABV. 3000 cases made. 7. Sparkling Vidal Icewine 2006, +560367, $69.95, Vintages December 6, in a premium black gift box. 375 mL size, of course. 9% ABV (lower than the 2005 which was 11.5% ABV). No oak aging. MVC tones of nectarine, apricot, some ginger, with pear and citrus on the mid-palate. More a frizzante or petillant than a full-blown sparkler. Best by itself with no food. 1440 bottles available. 8. Riesling Icewine 2007, $70.05, Vintages December 6. 375 mL size. A classic, with tones of lime and grapefruit (the latter found in many Ontario Rieslings). Ripe peaches too, of course, finishing with some austere minerality. 190 cases ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Monday, November 3, 2008 10 AM to 6 PM The Event: A tasting of wines from Italy, 13th edition, organized by ICE. The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines are available in Ontario via the LCBO or consignment or private orders. Some wineries were seeking agents. The Catalogue was the usual monster size, making it uncomfortable to carry about: a book detailing all the wines, their terms of availability, their grape compositions, and so forth. Everything but the price. As in previous years, I had to ask the agent for the prices. And as in previous years, many did not seem to know – which I find incredible at a function where the object is to sell wines! There was a seminar at 10 AM, but it started 30 minutes late, and this was followed by a luncheon which also started late. The Quote: “Too many wines -- I don’t even have the time to taste the ones I really want to taste!” The Wines: I did not try all the wines – who could? What follows is an eclectic selection based on my own perambulations and others’ suggestions. There were about 110 wineries, most with five wines each (some more, some less). **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Banfi Toscana IGT Centine 2006 -- $17.95 Charton Hobbs -Fatt. Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2003 -- $49.95 Noble Estates -Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2003 Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo -- $150 Symposium Imports -Castello di Neve Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 2003 - $59 Brunello Imports -Feudi di San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni 2005 - $35 Barrique Wine Imports -Marchesi Antinori Bolgheri Il Bruciato 2006 - $27.95 Halpern -Santa Barbara Salento IGT Barbaglio 2002 Puglia - $16.95 Vergina -Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Villa Calcinaia Riserva 2005 - $33 Frati Estates ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Banfi Sant’Antimo Excelsus 2004 -- Charton Hobbs -Fatt. Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Fiore 2003 -- $84.95 Noble Estates -Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2003 Villa Poggio Salvi -- $60 Symposium Imports -Fatt. Di Casalbosco Toscana IGT Orchidea 2006 – 15 Euros FOB -Castello di Neve Barbaresco 2005 - $22.95 Vintages Jan 2009 -Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2004 - $38.95 Jan Vintages Noble Estates -Fontanafredda Barbaresco Coste Rubin 2005 - $48.90 -Marchesi Antinori Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso 2005 - $89 Vintages -Marchesi Fumanelli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 - $64 Halpern -Marchesi Fumanelli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Octavius 2003 - $125 Halpern -Tenuta S.Antonio Valpolicella Monti Garbi Ripasso 2005 - $21.95 Prevedello & Mathews -Tenuta S.Antonio Valpolicella Amarone Campo dei Gigli 2004 - $21.95 Prevedello & Mathews -Cant. Tudernum Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 - $43 Connexion Oenophilia -Viticola Toscana Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Casi Castello di Meleto 2005 - $33 J. Hanna *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Batasiolo Barolo 2004 -- $31 Majestic Wine Cellars -Marca Trevigiana Prosecco Extra Dry 2007 -- $18.95 Majestic Wine Cellars -Ca’dei Mandorli Piemonte Spumante Brut Rosato 2007 - $16.95 B.Cojocaru -Castello di Neve Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2005 - $45 Brunello Imports -Castello di Verduna Barbaresco “Rabaja” 2003 - $52.50 30.50 Imports -Marchesi Antinori Umbria IGT Ramito del Cervo Chardonnay 2007 - $27 Halpern -Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Peppolo 2006 - $21.95 Halpern -Marchesi Mazzei Toscana IGT Poggio alla Badiola 2006 - $15 Vintages -Marchesi Mazzei Sicilia IGT Zisola 2007 Nero d’avola - $21.95 Vintages -Nino Franco Valdobbiadene Spumante Prosecco Rive di San Floriano Brut 2007 - $30 Rogers & Co -Roncolato Antonio Amarone Valpolicella 2005 - $43.85 Vintages -Ruffino Toscana IGT Il Ducale 2005 - $19.80 +27797 -San Felice Chianti Classico San Felice 2006 - $21 J Hanna -San Felice Toscana Vigorello 2003 - $60 J Hanna -Cant. Tudernum Umbria IGT Rojano 2005 - $25.95 Connexion Oenophilia -Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Villa Calcinaia Casara 2004 - $37.95 Frati Estates -Viticola Toscana Chianti Classico Riserva Pieve di Spaltenna 2004 - $25 J. Hanna The Food: buffet style, roast beef, salmon, pasta, cheeses, canolli. The Downside: it was a huge show, with a lot of people, which made it hard to get through to the wines I wanted. Also, the seminar started 30 minutes late; I used the time to peruse the catalogue. The Upside: the seminar was on the Sagrantino di Montefalco grape which was resurrected from oblivion (less than 5 hectares) thirty years ago. Profile of blueberry, blackberry, and anise tones. Priced at 9 to 18 Euros FOB. There were six wines in the seminar, and another six in the wider tasting. The Contact Person: benedetta.marassi.toronto@ice.it The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 4, 2008 4 PM to 9 PM The Event: The President’s Tasting: Maxxium Canada The Venue: McLean House, Vaughan Estates The Target Audience: wine trade, clients, press The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available or will be. The catalogue, as in the past, was spread over a series of rooms, beginning with the patio sparklers, the whites and reds of the conservatory, the robust reds of the mahogany room, leading to ports back on the patio and serious drinks in the library. The coach house had the party drinks. Suppliers were Beam Global, Donnafugata, Henkell, Kobrand, Louis Latour, Masi, Oyster Bay, Poderi Colla, Quinta da Aveleda, and the Edrington Group. The Quote: “This seminar is going on too long”. [allow more time next year] The Wines: there were 96 wines, plus fortifieds and rare spirits and mixed drinks. I only tasted wine, but not all 96. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Masi Amarone Riserva di Costasera 2003, $59.95 private order -Poderi Colla Barolo Brolo Bussia 2004, $57.95, Vintages +596890 -J&F Lurton Chacayes Mendoza 2004 - $77.95, Vintages pending -J&F Lurton Rueda Cuesta de Oro 2006 Rueda Spain - $26.95, private order -KWV Paarl Mentors Chenin Blanc 2006 - $24.95, private order -Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2005 - $179.95, Vintages Classics May 26, 2009 (2006) -Sileni Estate The Lodge Chardonnay 2007 New Zealand - $16.95, private order -Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2005 – $35.95 Vintages Classics Jan 7 2009 -Simonnet-Febvre Cremont de Bourgogne Rose NV - $19.95 private order -Vina Sena Arboleda Carmenere 2007 - $16.95 private order -A. Lurton Divinus de Chateau Bonnet Blanc 2007 - $34.95 private order -A. Lurton Divinus de Chateau Bonnet Rouge 2003 - $34.95 private order ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2005, $75.95 private order -Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d’Alba 2006, $25.95 private order -Cono Sur 20 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $24.95, Vintages July 4, 2009 -Oyster Bay Chardonnay 2007, $18.95 Vintages Essential +326728 -J&F Lurton El Albar Excelencia 2005 Toro Spain - $51.95, Vintages Jan 7, 2009 +108720 -KWV Paarl Perold Shiraz 2003 - $89.95, Vintages Feb 4, 2009 +993261 -Louis Latour Corton Grancey 2005 - $100, Vintages Classics (2003) -Vina Sena Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - $19.95 Vintages +606764 -Vina Sena 2006 - $79 Vintages Classics May 26, 2009 -Groom Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 - $37.95 Vintages +74237 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Adam Henkell Chardonnay 2005, $26.95 Private order -Donnafugata Tancredi 2005, $32.95 consignment -Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncoglie 2005, $48.95 Vintages +715763 (2004) -Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2007, $27.95 Vintages June 2, 2009 -J&F Lurton Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2006 Argentina - $19.95, Vintages +66829 -J&F Lurton Gran Lurton Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Argentina - $20.95, Vintages +980334 -Louis Latour Mersault Chateau de Blagny 2005 - $72.45, Vintages Classics -Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2006 – $69.70 private order -Tyrrell’s Vat 8 Shiraz Hunter Valley 2006 - $49.95 private order -Chateau La Louviere Rouge 2006 Pessac-Leognan - $41.95 private order The Food: one of the best annual spreads: oysters, artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, salmon, steak, roast beef and pork, fish, glorious desserts, and the like. The Downside: we all lamented the lack of Alsace and Champagne, but c’est la vie. The Upside: seminars were useful. I attended the Italian wines of Piedmonte and Sicily, and had some interesting samples. The Contact Person: presidentstasting@maxxium.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 6, 2008 1:30 PM to 6 PM The Event: trade tasting of Argentine wines, sponsored by the Consulate General of Argentina. The Venue: Design Exchange The Target Audience: wine trade, although it seemed to be lightly attended. There was a consumer show in the evening. The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was explicit about suppliers and agents, names of wines, varietals, regions and vintages, but fell down on the prices. Many were out of whack with reality. Many prices did not exist at all. I had to ask each agent for prices. The Quote: “There are 950 wineries in the Argentine, with 685 in the Mendoza. Canada has the third highest exported figures, after the UK and the US. Sales to Canada last year were up 49.2%. Malbec represents 33% of sales, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The Wines: 174 wines were offered, but I did not taste them all. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bodega Del Fin Del Mondo Pinot Noir Reserva 2007 Patagonia - $19.95 Calibrium -Luigi Bosca Gala 2 2006 Mendoza [Bordeaux-style blend] – Pacific Wines and Spirits -Familia Schroeder Pinot Noir Malbec 2004 Patagonia - $39 Connexion Oenophilia -Catena Zapata Chardonnay 2006 Mendoza - Calibrium -Pascual Toso Pedregal Single Vineyard 2006 - $39 - Eurovintage -Las Moras Reserve Chardonnay 2007 San Juan - $11.99 – Diamond Estates -Trivento Golden Reserve Syrah 2006 Mendoza - $24.95 – Select Wines -Trivento Golden Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Mendoza - $23.95 – Select Wines ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dante Robino Sua Sparkling Blackberry 2007 Mendoza - $12.95 Eurovintage -Pascual Toso Malbec Reserva 2007 Mendoza - $19.95 – Eurovintage -Chakana Reserve Malbec 2006 - $17.95 – Connexion Oenophilia -Saurus Patagonia Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - $16.95 – Connexion Oenophilia -Saurus Patagonia Select Malbec 2006 - $16.95 – Connexion Oenophilia -Graffigna Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 - $18.95 - Corby -Las Moras Mora Negra Malbec-Bonarda 2006 San Juan - $35 – Diamond Esttaes -Trapiche Finca Las Palmas Malbec 1006 Mendoza - $19.95 – Philippe Dandurand -Trivento Coleccion Fincas No. 1 Malbec 2006 Mendoza - $24.95 – Select Wines -Lagarde Malbec DOC 2006 Mendoza - $20.81 – The Case for Wine *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dante Robino Sparkling Extra Brut 2007 Mendoza - Eurovintage -Luigi Bosca Finca La Linda Extra Brut 2007 Mendoza – Pacific Wines and Spirits -Las Moras Gran Shiraz 2005 San Juan - $27.99 – Diamond Estates -Cristobal 1494 Torrontes 2008 Mendoza - $15 - Ruby -Fam. Zuccardi Fuzion Alta Malbec-Tempranillo 2008 - $10.95 - Dionysus -Fam. Zuccardi Q Tempranillo 2006 Mendoza - $18.95 – Vintages March 2009 -Rutini Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Mendoza - $19 – Profile Wine Group -Dominio Del Plata Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 2008 - $13.95 – Profile Wine Group -Lagarde Altas Cumbres Sparkling 2007 Mendoza - $12.65 – The Case for Wine -Lagarde Chardonnay 2007 Mendoza - $16.04 – The Case for Wine The Food: waitstaff offered empanadas and other two-bite goodies. The Downside: the seminar was way too general, as if we did not know anything about Argentine wines. The Upside: there was an informative seminar about Argentine wines, although it went on past the time limit because it had to cover so much ground. We tasted four Malbecs. Best was Reserva del Fin del Mundo, which had showed aging. The Contact Person: info@winespeak.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 4. The Time and Date: Monday, November 10, 2008 2 PM to 6 PM The Event: Vineland Estate Winery portfolio tasting, in association with Halpern Enterprises. The Venue: Capitol Event Theatre. The Target Audience: wine media, private customers and clients. The Availability/Catalogue: current selections and some Library offerings were featured. The Quote: “The Library wines are fabulous – the one drawback for the current red wines is that you must lay them down”. The Wines: all prices are for licensees -- **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chardonnay Reserve 2002, $48.97 -Riesling Semi-Dry 1993, $36.73 -Merlot 2002, $36.73 -Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $36.73 -Cabernet Franc 2007, $10.41 – outstanding -Cabernet Merlot 2006, $12.24 -Brut Reserve 2007, $22.85 -Riesling St. Urban 2007, $16.32 -Sauvignon Blanc Neufeld Vineyard 2006, $16.32 -Cabernet Franc Reserve 2005, $32.65 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chenin 2002, $20.41 -Gewurztraminer 1998, $20.41 -Riesling Semi-Dry 1995, $32.65 -Elevation Chardonnay 2007, $20.41 -Elevation Riesling 2007, $20.41 -Sauvignon Blanc Smith Vineyard 2006, $16.32 -Sauvignon Blanc Wismer Vineyard 2006, $16.32 -Syrah Reserve 2006, $32.65 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Gewurztraminer 1995, $20.41 -Riesling Semi-Dry 1998, $26.12 -Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2000, $61.22 -Pinot Noir Reserve 2002, $53.05 -Elevation Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $20.41 -Dry Riesling 2007, $11.22 -Semi-Dry Riesling, 2007, $11.22 -Chardonnay 2007, $10.33 -Pinot Blanc 1=2006, $12.04 -Chenin Blanc 2006, $12.04 -Gamay Noir 2006, $12.20 -Merlot 2006, $12.24 -Elevation Cabernet 2007, $20.41 -Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2005, $39.99 -Pinot Meunier Rose 2006, $10.57 The Food: samples were prepared by Vineland’s Executive Chef Jan-Willem Stulp, to be paired with the wines. He had created squash bisque shooters with ample essence, fresh wild salmon cakes with remoulade, seared gnocchi with mushroom confit, pan-roasted Ontario lamb rondelles. The Downside: it was lightly attended. The Upside: terrific food. The Contact Person: deron@halpernwine.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 82. 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11AM to noon The Event: a wine tasting hosted by Carolyn Wente, of Wente Wines (California), repped by Peter Mielzynski Agencies. The Venue: Accents Restaurant, Sutton Place Hotel The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: the wines we tasted are here or will be here. The Quote: “You can taste the marine influences in these Livermore wines. The winery was founded in 1883, and has moved forward with the times. It is now completely green and sustainable, with natural yeasts and the like.” The Wines: 1.Wente Chardonnay Morning Fog 2007, $16.75: from the Wente clone – 80% of California chardonnay comes from the Wente clone, propagated in the 1950s. 2% gewürztraminer added for aromatic tones. 60% of the wine was barrel fermented and aged sur lie for 7 months. Lightly fruity, clovey. 2. Zinfandel Beyer Ranch 2006, $17.95: aged 15 months in 3-4 year barrels, 14% ABV. Light nose, picked up later, MVC tones, big structure. Thirty year old vines. 3. Cabernet Sauvignon Southern Hills 2006, $17.25: seven grape varieties here (78% cabernet sauvignon, 9% petit Verdot, balance merlot, tempranillo, sangiovese, barbera, and syrah). Approachable, typical cabby texture despite the other grapes (which may have been added to tame the cab). A bit short in the finish, but opened up later. 4. Merlot Crane Ridge 2005, $29.95: with 2% Touriga nacional added. Mostly from south east portion of Livermore Valley. Aged 12 months in French and US oak. Juicy, fruity, long length, some chocolate tones, soft merlot character. Best wine here. The Food: bread and water The Downside: I’d have liked to have tasted some of their high end wines, such as the Nth Degree. The Upside: it started and ended on time. The Contact Person: tmcdonald@pmacanada.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 6. The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:30 PM – 2:30PM The Event: lunch with JeanJean and Ogier to celebrate the release of JeanJean Syrah Primeur Nouveau 2008, with Lionel Harmel, Export Director, and Francois Bonaventure, Sales Manager Canada. The Venue: Café Nicole at Novotel Esplanade. The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: we also had a chance to taste many of the principal’s wines at Vintages and private orders. The Quote: “This is the tenth consecutive year that Syrah Primeur Nouveau has been selected by the LCBO for its Nouveau release” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ogier Ted Red +665463, $9.95, 14.5% ABV ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ogier Heritages +535849, $15.95, 13.5% ABV -Ogier Caves des Papes Clos L’Oratoire 2006, +993279, $39.95 -Domaines Cazes Excellence de Triniac 2005, Vintages Feb 2009, $16.95 -Moueix Bel-Air Lalande de Pomerol 2005, +61754, $24.95 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ogier Cotes de Ventoux +569095, $11.40, 14% ABV -Ogier Ted Rose +622126, $12.95, 14% ABV -Cazes Alter 2003 Roussilon, +97576, Vintages Jan 2009 $19.95 [we tasted the 2005] The Food: frisee salad (or soup), pork, light dessert, coffees. The Downside: it started a bit late and finished a bit late. The Upside: a mini-portfolio tasting The Contact Person: vintages@eurovintage.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: Portfolio tasting of Le Sommelier, trade portion. The client tasting came in the evening. The Venue: Niagara Street Cafe The Target Audience: wine trade, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: everything is here, either by consignment or by Vintages. 21 wines were offered. The Quote: “Most of the wines are listed as sustainable.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Duca di Casalanza “Duchea” Pinot Grigio 2005 Veneto, $24.94 consignment -Nichols Edna Ranch Pinot Noir 2001, $49.88 -DogRidge Cadenzia Grenache 2005 McLaren Vale, $29.93 -Senorio de P. Pecina Tinto Reserva 1999 Rioja, $31.45 -Ardent Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 McLaren Vale, $25.51 -Fanti San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 2005 Tuscany, $22.95. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -J.M. Sohler Grand Cru Winzenberg Pinot Gris 2006 Alsace, $28.94 -DogRidge The Pup Chardonnay 2006 McLaren Vale, $20.95 -Nichols Meritage Vinas del Sol 2000 San Luis Obispo, $49.80 -DogRidge The Pup Shiraz 2005 McLaren Vale, $19.90 -DogRidge MVP Shiraz 2004 McLaren Vale, $79.80 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Nigl Gruner Veltliner Gartling 2007 Austria, $20.95 retail -Quinta de Sanjoanne Vinho Verde 2007 Portugal, $14.92 -Ciu Ciu Oris Falerio 2007 Marche Italy, $13.92 organic -Nichols Edna Ranch Pinot Noir Clone 777 2001, $49.88 -Antiquarian Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 McLaren Vale, $49.80 The Food: appetizers such as artisanal cheeses, terrines, candied walnuts. The Downside: we arrived later than we should have. The Upside: the quality of the wines. The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 8. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 13, 2008 12:30 to 3 PM The Event: the cookbook launch of “West”, by Warren Geraghty, published by Douglas and McIntyre in Vancouver. The Venue: The Fifth. The Target Audience: wine and food writers of the GTA. The Availability/Catalogue: There were introductions by James Chatto (Toronto Life) and Jamie Maw (Vancouver Magazine). Did you know that there are 82 species of seafood off BC coastline? At the end, the chef came out and described the food. The Quote: “Everything at lunch can be prepared from the book at home”. West is one of several restaurants run by Toptable (www.toptable.ca) The Food and Wines: we also had 10,000 BC water from the west coast. All the food and wine came from British Columbia. Here was the menu – * Canapes – BC mushroom arancini [top notch] Vancouver Island octopus with Pemberton beets (yellow) Ballotine of foie gras and Salt Spring Island goat cheese Galantine of Thiessen Farm quail and jasmine poached raisins [top notch again] …and accompanied by Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay 2004 Okanagan Valley (MC Brut, biscuity, 91+, $26) * Tian of Dungeness crab and saffron cous cous, smoked tomato gazpacho -- accompanied by Blackwood Lane Riesling 2007 Okanagan Valley (85-87, $35) * Seared Qualicum Bay scallops with butternut squash – accompanied by Sandhill Small Lots Osprey Ridge Vineyard Viognier 2007 Okanagan Valley (88-90, $23) * Supreme of sockeye salmon with sesame scented white cabbage, smoked salmon gnocchi, raisin puree – accompanied by Quails’ Gate Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2006 Okanagan Valley (88-90, $35) [needed time to open, best with gnocchi] * Loin of dry aged [48 days] Pemberton Meadows beef, oxtail and foie gras cromesquis [egg shaped rolls], confit Portobello and roasted red onion – accompanied by Mission Hill Oculus 2005 Okanagan Valley (88-90, deeply extractive and overpowered the dish) * Saffron spiced pumpkin panna cotta with ginger cake and orange saffron syrup – with Gehringer Brothers Riesling Ice wine 2007 Okanagan Valley, 88-90, good food match here) The Downside: I wanted to taste the wines against the variety of food, but the wait staff wanted to clear my places. Also, I felt that the chef – or someone -- could have come out and describe the dishes as we ate them. The Upside: a chance at Vancouver cuisine, plus a signed copy of the book. See my book review in the December edition of “Food and Wine Books In Review” The Contact Person: shelley@toptable.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 9. The Time and Date: Wednesday November 19, 2008 3 PM – 4:30 PM The Event: the press launch of Southbrook Vineyards’ POETICA series of fine wines. The Venue: The Richmond The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: Winemaker Anne Sperling spoke to the wines, although both Bill and Marilyn Redelmeier did also. The Quote: “The wines’ labels display the art of words with lines of poetry by 11 of Canada’s celebrated poets from all time periods. Bottles will be limited editions and numbered.” Instead of critters or fantasy names, Southbrook opted for support for Canadian poetry. Each label has the lines of poetry in a graphic re-design on the label. Poets included Gwendolyn MacEwan, Wendy Morton, bpNichol, Charles G.D. Roberts, P.K. Page, Christopher Dewdney, and Lesley Choyce. There will be new poets each year, one for each new vintage and varietal. The Wines: most of these wines were in the former Triomphus series, the high end wines of Southbrook. Wines are available at the winery, but are in limited supply. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Poetica Cabernet Merlot “P.K. Page” 1998, magnum, $168 -Poetica Cabernet Merlot “Gwendolyn MacEwan” 2002, $72 750 mL -Poetica Chardonnay “Sarah Slean” 2005, $53 (also in magnum at $106) -Poetica Chardonnay “Martin Tielli” 2004, $56 -Poetica Chardonnay “bpNichol” 2003, $59 – my fave -Poetica Chardonnay “Steve Venright” 2000, $136 magnum – also a fave -Poetica Chardonnay “Charles G.D. Roberts” 1998, $148 magnum ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Poetica Cabernet Merlot “Wendy Morton” 2006, $60 -Poetica Chardonnay “Lesley Choyce” 2006, $50 The Food: an artisanal cheese platter from PQ and Ontario for each of us, with pear and apple and breads. The Downside: I had to run by 4 PM. Some writers were late, which postponed the tasting. As it was, I left at 4:12. I felt I did not have enough time to do justice to the reds. The Upside: a great occasion to listen to a poetry reading. The Contact Person: jburkhard@sympatico.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 10. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008 10:30 AM to 1:30 PM The Event: monthly tasting of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. In honour of the upcoming holidays, we tasted Ports and Sparkling Wines. The Venue: LCBO at Scrivener Square, in the Private Tasting Room. The Target Audience: WWCC members. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in the LCBO system, as Vintages or General Purchase. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut -Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 1999 -13th Street Premier Cuvee Traditional Method Brut -13th Street 2004 Cuvee Traditional Method Brut -Taittinger Brut Reserve 12.5% alc Vintages +814723 $63.95 -Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut VQA Traditional Method 12% alc Vintages +83139 $34.95 -Chateau des Charmes Brut Methode Traditionelle VQA Vintages +207944 $22.95 -Graham's 20 Years Old Tawny -Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny 20% alc Vintages Essentials +149047 $68.95 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut -Bottega Petalo Moscato, Il Vino dell' Amore alc 6.5% -Jacquart Brut Mosaigue NV 12.5% alc -Trius Brut VQA 12.5% acl LCBO +451641 $24.95 -Taylor Fladgate Qunita de Vargellas 1995 20/5% alc Vintages +581199 $42.95 +Taylor Fladgate 2003 Vintages +951962 $145. -G. H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Rose -G. H. Mumm Cordon Rouge -Mumm Napa Sparkling Wine -Lanson Rose Label Brut Rose Champagne -Lanson Black Label Brut NV *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Warre's Otima 10 Year Old 20% alc 500ml/$22.95 -Champagne Deutz Brut Classic NV Vintages +710038 $57.95 -Peller Ice Cuvee 'Rose' Methode Classique NV QVA Avail April 25 2009 at Vintages +113035 -Cave Spring Chenin Blanc 2006 Traditional Method Extra dry VQA Avail winery only $24.95 -Peller Ice Cuvee Classic Methode Classique VQA 11.5% alc LCBO +53199 $29.95 -Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny 20% alc Vintages Essentials +121749 $34.95 The Food: water The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 11. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008 2PM to 5 PM The Event: A joint portfolio tasting of Cynthia’s Selections (Cynthia Moore) and Ex-cellars Wine Services (Nuray Ali) The Venue: Flatiron Building, 5th floor. The Target Audience: wine trade in the afternoon, private clients in the evening. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is in stock The Quote: “These boutique wineries specialize in sustainable or organic or biodynamic wines, traditionally made with attention to detail” The Wines: Ex-cellars showed 13 wines (Ex); Cynthia showed 21 wines (C). **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -CORE Winery Hard Core 2006 $40 (Cynthia) -White Rock Vineyards Laureate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $65 (C) – organic, good value. -Cedarville Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $38 (Cynthia) -Wedgetail Estate The North Face 2005 $27 (C) – Bordeaux blend -Wedgetail Estate Pinot Noir 2004 $35 (C) -Domaine des Quarres Anjou Blanc Sec Les Pierres Noires 2005 $23 (Ex) -Domaine d’Orfeuilles Vouvray Les Coudraies 2005 Medium-Dry $22 (Ex) -Chateau Sainte Eulalie Minervois La Liviniere La Cantilene 2005 $23 (Ex) -O.Fournier Alfa Crux Tempranillo-Malbec-Merlot 2002 $38 (Ex) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Handley Cellars Pinot Gris 2006 California $26 (Cynthia) -Domaine De LaGasqui Vallat des Taches 2005 Rhone Vauclause (C) -Cedarville Vineyard Zinfandel 2003 $25 (Cynthia) -Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blanc 1999 $88 (Ex) -Latour-Giraud Meursault Perrieres 2006 $88 (Ex) -Domaine Tollot-Beaut Savigny 1er Cru Lavieres 2005 $55 (Ex) -Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Pommard 1er Cru Epenots 2006 $75 (Ex) -Dom de la Charbonniere Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres 2003 $59 (Ex) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Handley Cellars Gewurztraminer 2007 California $28 (Cynthia) -Poppy Hill Cabernet California 2004 $20 (C) -CORE Winery Elevation 2006 Santa Barbara $54 (C) -Twenty Rows The Grappler Zinfandel Blend 2006 $35 (C) -Field Stone Winery Convivio Red 2005 Alexander Valley $26 (C) -Field Stone Winery Old Vine Petit Syrah 2006 $40 (C) -Cedarville Vineyard Zinfandel 2005 $25 (Cynthia) -Andrew Pirie Estate Pinot Noir 2005 $39 (Ex) -Montevetrano Colli de Salerno IGT Rosso $99 (Ex) -Valenciso Rioja Reserva 2002 $40 (Ex) The Food: Saucier Foods (www.saucierfoods.com) provided the duck rilettes, the smoked salmon dip, the pate, and diverse artisanal cheeses. As well, there was a giant frittata. The Downside: it came just after a heavy bout of port and champagne tasting (see above). Also, the quarters were small. The Upside: great wines and food, good “close” company. The Contact Person: nuray@ex-cellars.ca and Cynthia.moore@rogers.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 12. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008 3PM to 7 PM The Event: a 2007 Futures offering from Lailey Vineyard in Niagara on the Lake. Derek Barnett is the winemaker, Ed Haddon is the sommelier. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street The Target Audience: private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: Three of the 2007 vintage wines are already in bottle (Counterpoint, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay), the remaining 7 are barrel samples. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will be out in February, the balance in April. Futures orders were taken on site. The Quote: Derek has had a long association with Lailey, buying fruit from them when he was winemaker at Southbrook, In the fall of 2001, he moved to NOTL and joined Lailey as a winemaker and business partner. The Wines: it was hard to taste the reds since they were barrel samples. The pinot was the most advanced. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Lailey Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $20 (under priced) – some oak treatment. 140 cases. -Lailey Chardonnay Old Vines $35 – 1200 bottles – best wine here, 35 year old vines -Lailey Pinot Noir Old Vines $40 – 100 cases, extended toasted oak. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Lailey Counterpoint 2007 $25 (white blend, 58% gewürztraminer, sauvignon blanc, riesling, chardonnay in equal proportions of 14% each) 140 cases -Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $25 – 200 cases -Lailey Meritage Canadian Oak 2007 $35 – nice integration already. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Lailey Chardonnay 2007 Niagara River $25 – 1 year oak -Lailey Syrah Canadian Oak 2007 $35 – like a young St. Joseph -Lailey Cabernet Franc 2007 $35 -Lailey Impromptu 2007 $40 – 200 cases, blend of 60% syrah, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 10% Malbec, 10% petit Verdot. Should be approachable 3 – 5 years. Second vintage for this wine. The Food: charcuterie and cheeses. The Downside: it was at the end of a long tasting day. The Upside: good wines and company The Contact Person: www.laileyvineyard.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 13. The Time and Date: Saturday, November 29, 2008 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM The Event: an evening of 18th century food, wine and history at Fort York, inspired by the wine inventories of the residents of Louisbourg. The Venue: Fort York The Target Audience: food historians and wine writers, and their guests. The Availability/Catalogue: Parks Canada was the major sponsor, and they did their best to get appropriate wines, bearing in mind that wines had to be available in the province of Ontario for consumption. The wines are available through the LCBO. There was one Nova Scotia wine, Jost Framboise Raspberry Dessert Wine with dessert. The Quote/Background: Anne Marie Lane Jonah (historian at Fortress of Louisbourg), her sister Susan Lane (sommelier and Manager of Lane’s Privateer Inn) and Ann Marie Pitcher (restaurant manager of Fortress Louisbourg Association) had been putting together wine and food nights at Louisbourg. They had offered several four-course meals with wine plus tours of the Fortress at night, at an amazing price of $65 a head. They had just completed their third season, with the dates for the fourth in 2009 to be announced shortly. They had been researching for quite a while, and now it was time to take the show on the road – to show the rest of Canada what awaits them at the Fortress. Their 300th anniversary is coming up in 1713, and they’d like lots of tourists to eat there. The meals are set in 1744, based on the wine inventory at the time. Each course is described by the team, and so is the accompanying wine. Reproductions of plates and serving dishes are used, as well as fully costumed interpreters. “We’re trying to encourage people to spend a little more time thinking about the people who lived in colonial Louisbourg; they came from many regions and had a wide experience of the world they lived in”, said Anne Marie Lane Jonah. “There was a lot about life in 18th-century Louisbourg that was harsh, but people have always tried to find pleasures to make life more bearable. Food is one of those sources of pleasure, as well as sustenance, and it’s also one of the main ways that people define their culture”. Just before we ate, there was a sabre demo on opening wine bottles, performed by Doris Miculan Bradley…we gave her lots of room. The Wines and Food: we were given a printed menu with sources for the preps, and the type of wines that would have been served. Strewn throughout each course were edible flowers as garnishes. Two musicians with a harpsichord and a flute provided consummate music. Here’s the menu (with some comments). Sources are listed after each dish – no source means it is a “traditional” dish with accepted local provenance: Huitres, Merigomish et Trumpcap de Nouvelle Ecosse – with gougeres and sauce, lemons. We drank Louise Brison Brut Champagne 2002 (50/50 pinot noir and chardonnay, a traditional accompaniment to oysters) Soup - Potage de poisson (La Varenne, 1651) – coarse chopped diverse fish, such as cod and salmon, served family style. With a “vin de Nante”: Domain les Haute Noelles Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu 2006 (refreshing acidity) Entremets – gougeres bourguignonnes, pate (after Menon, 1755). With “vin claret de Provence” Carte Noire Rose Cotes de Provence 2007 (extremely light in colour, useful pairing with the entremets and/or the soup and salmon below). Premier service – Saumon aux fines herbes, sauce petite italienne (Menon, 1755), with rice and salad (mushroom, carrots, cucumber, lettuces, shirred eggs). With “vin de Florence” Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Nippozano Reserva 2005 (long and balanced, paired with salmon but also useful with the ragout below and the pate). Entrée – Ragout de boeuf (Massialot, 1691) with carrots, turnips, potatoes. “Vin de Navarre” Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Reserve 2003 Navarra (lots of wood tones that melded with the beefy complexity of the ragout). Dessert – Gateau fin au chocolat avec crème anglaise (LaVarenne, ca1650). “Liqueur de framboises” Jost Framboise Raspberry Dessert Wine. The Contact Person: mark.sajatovich@pc.gc.ca or Annemarie.jonah@pc.gc.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 95 AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008 2 Pm to 4:30 PM The Event: Chilean Wine Tasting The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District. The Target Audience: media and trade professionals The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue has all the components right, with listing for the wines which included availability terms (consignment, vintages, etc.) plus prices plus CSPC numbers. Occasionally, there were different bottles or vintage years. The Quote: “Sure is a young crowd here.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere Block 17 2005 $29.95 Select -Vina Caliterra Carmenere Tributo 2006, $16.95 consignment (Calibrium). -Vina Caliterra Carmenere/Malbec Tributo 2006, $24.95 consignment (Calibrium). -Vina Valdivieso Malbec Reserva 2006, $22.45 consignment (Carriage Trade) -Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Syrah Haras Elegance 2004, +640672 Vintages, $33.75. -Vina Santa Rita Carmenere 95/Cabernet Sauvignon5 Pehuen 2004 Apalta $48.50 Vintages -Vina Amayna Sauvignon Blanc Barrel Fermented 2006 Leyda $31.95 Whitehall -Vina Miguel Torres Carmenere Reserva 2007 $24.10 Pacific Wine and Spirits -Vina O. Fournier Carignan/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Centauri Blend 2007 Maule $29.95 Ex-Cellars -Vina San Estaban Blend In Situ Laguna del Inca 2007 Aconcagua $23.95 MCO ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Perez Cruz Carménère 2006 Maipo $24.95 Vintages -Vina Carmen Carménère/Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 Maipo $16.95 -Vina Terra Andina Carménère 2007 $9.95 Woodman -Vina Terra Andina Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $9.95 Woodman -Vina Maipo Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Especial 2008 +81216 Vintages Nov. 22, $16.95 -Vina Maipo Carmenere Reserva 2007 Rapel, $13.95 consignment (Select) -Vina Botalcura Carmenere La Porfia Grand Reserve 2005, +61887, Vintages, $18.95. -Vina Undurraga Carmenere Sibaris Reserva Especial 2007, +96602 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Errazuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2006, +614750, $17.75. -Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Albis 2004, +579813 Vintages, $55. -Vina Anakena Carmenere Single Vineyard 2005 Rapel $14.95 Kylix -Vina Anakena Cabernet/Merlot/Carmenere ONA 2006, +59493, $17.95. -Vina Valdivieso Solera System Caballo Loco No. 10 Central Valley $37 Carriage Trade -Vina Requingua Cabernet Sauvignon Toro De Piedra Reserva 2006, +39362 Vintages, $14.95. -Vina Tres Palacios Merlot 2006 Cholqui Maipo $46.63 n/a *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Cono Sur Carmenere Vision 2007, +59360 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Cousino Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reservas 2006, +212993, $15.45. -Vina MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2007, +619205, $12.20. -Vina Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna Reserve 2006, +177451 Vintages, $14.95. The Food: chicken and beef empanadas, cheeses, seviche, chicken. The Downside: it was slow moving to get to a spit bucket. For some strange reasons, people were hanging around the buckets which made it very hard for me to expectorate. The Upside: there was a separate Carmenere room, which made comparable tasting possible. The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 2. The Time and Date: Thursday Oct 2, 2008 1:15PM to 2:30PM The Event: Gremolata late launch lunch The Venue: JK Winebar, Church Street The Target Audience: me – I had missed the Sept 25 launch. The Availability/Catalogue: samples of wines from the JK Winebar offerings. The Quote: “Here’s what the new Gremolata website looks like” – Mal Jolley The Wines: Sommelier Jamie Drummond seized the opportunity to pour us some samples off his new wine list, emphasizing, for us, the unusual: - Candidus Mouratus 2007 (J.Mourat) Vin de Pays de Vendee France – a white pinot noir, reminiscent of still champagne but fatter. - Chacra Pinot Noir “Cincuenta y Cinco” Patagonia Argentina ($16.30 for 3 oz) -Domaine Tissot Savagnin Arbois Blanc Jura – a dry vin jaune loaded with rancio ($11.90 for 3 oz.) -Leth Gigama Reserve Zweigelt/Blauer Zweigelt Wagram Austria ($12.80 for 3 oz.) -Edmeades Zinfandel 2005 (17% ABV!) The Food: off the menu: charcuterie plate, grilled halloumi salad, white anchovy tart, wild rice battered perch, and lamb stew. The Downside: we had a narrow time frame. The Upside: it had been a while since I had some JK food and talked to Mal Jolley about the new website. The Contact Person: malcolm@gremolata.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday October 2, 2008 2:30PM to 4 PM The Event: Yalumba wine seminar with Jane Ferrari The Venue: Biff’s, Front Street The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines are available or will be. The Quote: “Yalumba imports oak staves from France and America, and then air-dries this oak for a few Barossan summers and winters to leach sappy-bitter characteristics from the wood”. The Wines: the seminar had seven wines -- 1. Yalumba Barossa Viognier Eden Valley 2006 (+954644, $22.95) – stored for a short time in third year oak (previously inhabited with chardonnay). Stone fruit, rich and intense. 2. Yalumba Barossa Wild Ferment Chardonnay Eden Valley 200 (+528406, $19.95) – slightly off-dry, toasty wood tones, more stone fruit. 3. Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine Grenache Eden Valley 2006 (+531228, $20) – begins tart, opens up to become more a food wine with some Euro character, generous red fruit. 4. Yalumba Barossa Shiraz & Viognier Eden Valley 2005 (+524926, $19.95) – prominent mocha tones, peppery, red and black fruits, long finish. 5. Yalumba Barossa Patchwork Shiraz Eden Valley 2006 (+98392, $19.95) – from the valley floor, where the overview looks at a patchwork design of vineyards. Deep, dark and delicious, broad fruit, powerful but not aggressive, needs time. 6. Yalumba Barossa Hand Picked Shiraz & Viognier 2004 (+631028, $41.95) – more mocha, mouthfilling, soft and fruity and aromatic. Red fruits. Could be ready now. 7. Yalumba Barossa The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2006 (+449017, $109.95) – concentrated and stylish elegance, from seven vineyards; long, long engaging finish. Smokey chocolate, thick. Could use more time. The Food: breads and water The Downside: it was slightly rushed, and I felt that we needed a full two hours. The Upside: a chance to actually talk to the winemaker. The Contact Person: danalee.harris@shaw.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 2, 2008 mid-afternoon to 7 PM The Event: a tasting of Australian wines repped by B & W Wines (Two Hands, Penley, Grosset, Glaymond, Clarendon Hills). The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: wines are either available or by consignment or coming in 2009. The Quote: “The Sales Manager from Two Hands was in town for a concurrent function, and brought with him a bottle of each of their current releases for tasting by writers.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Two Hands Shiraz Angels Share McLaren Vale 2007, screwcap, $27.95, May 2009 +9480 -Two Hands Shiraz/Grenache Brave Faces Barossa Valley 2007, screwcap, $35, March 2009, +660035 -Grosset Bordeaux Blend Gaia Clare Valley 2005, %52, here now, +73064 -Glaymond Shiraz Distinction Barossa Valley 2004, $126, here now, +64915 -Two Hands Shiraz Coach House Block Single Vineyard Seppeltsfield Road Barossa Valley 2006, $46, January 2009, +9563 -Two Hands Shiraz Ares Barossa Valley 2005, $100, here now, +64816 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Set of Five, all here now, all Shiraz, but from different regions: Two Hands Lily’s Garden McLaren Vale 2006, $65, +683086 Two Hands Bella’s Garden Barossa Valley 2006, $65, +636407 Two Hands Sophie’s Garden Padthaway 2006. $60, +62380 Two Hands Max’s Garden Heathcote 2007, $50, +60293 Two Hands Harry & Edwards Garden Langhorne Creek 2007, $50, +60285 -Five Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon SGS Yarra Valley 2005, $52.95, here, +72686 -Glaymond Shiraz60/Mataro40 Landrace Barossa Valley 2005, $46, here, +658492. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Two Hands Moscato Brilliant Disguise Barossa Valley, $19.95 500 mL, consignment, 7% ABV. -Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes Barossa Valley 2007, $27.95, May 2009, +660043. -Two Hands Shiraz/Cabernet The Bull and the Bear Barossa Valley 2006, $50, May 23 2009, +9464. -Grosset Riesling Polish Hill Clare Valley 2007, $43.95, here, +72900 -Glaymond Grenache Gerhard Barossa Valley 2005, $47.95, here, +63867 The Food: cheeses, pierogies, charcuterie, pate, artisanal breads. The Downside: we had less than a day’s notice, and we had already been to two other functions. The Upside: a good opportunity to taste some rare wines. The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 5. The Time and Date: Friday, October 3, 2008 2:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: A table top tasting of Tommasi Viticoltori – Veneto wines with Pierangelo Tommasi. There was also a tasting of Maremma Toscana Poggio al Tufo wines, owned by Tommasi. The agency is Lorac who showed a dozen wines. The Venue: National Club, Bay Street The Target Audience: wine writers and LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines but one were available. The Quote: “All the wines come from their own vineyards. They are the largest landholder within the region, with 135 Ha (95 Ha under vine)”. Veneto wines are a hot category at the LCBO these days. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Lugana Le Fornaci 2007, $17.95, +13284 -Merlot Le Prunee 2005 IGT, $17.95, +24505 -Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, $19.95, +910430 -Amarone Classico 2000 (not available) -Ca Florian Amarone Classico 2000, $75 (great price) – 25 cases only. -Amarone Classico 2004, $52.50, +356220 (will be available in many sizes: 375 mL, 750 mL, and 1.5 Litres) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Poggio al Tufo Alicante IGT Maremma Toscana 2006, $19.95, +13755 -Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo IGT Maremma Toscana 2005, $18.95, +70797(sangiovese60/cabernetsauvignon40), $18.95 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Poggio al Tufo Vermentino IGT Maremma Toscana 2006, $17.95 -Tommasi Pinot Grigio Le Rosse 2007, $17.95, +910497 -Tommasi Soave Classico Le Volpare 2007, $17.95, +70870 -Tommasi Chiaretto ai Bardolino Rose 2007, $12.95, +685057 -Tommasi Valpollicella 2007, $13.95, +669150 The Food: delicious aged cheese, three kinds of pates, breads. The Downside: most of the wine writers had just slogged through a whole pile of wines at Vintages, and our palates needed refreshing. The Upside: good company with Lorac, as always. The Contact Person: lorac@bellnet.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 6. The Time and Date: Monday, October 6, 2008 11:30 AM to 6 PM The Event: a lunch to celebrate Madeira wines, followed by a trade tasting. The Venue: University Club, University Avenue. The Target Audience: wine media and LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: spotty, mostly private order, some Vintages. The Quote: “None of the Madeiras seemed to be incorporated into the meal’s preps, nor did those that accompanied the preps elevate the taste profiles.” The Wines: I could not taste all of the wines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Henriques & Henriques Sercial Madeira 10 Year Old (Cavima Enterprises) -Henriques & Henriques Bual 1980 -Blandy’s 10 Year Old Sercial Madeira (Symington Family Brands) -Blandy’s Bual 1977 -Justino’s Madeira Colheita 1995 (RKW Wine Imports) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 15 Year Old -Henriques & Henriques Malmsey 15 year old -Blandy’s Malmsey 10 Year Old -Justino’s Madeira Fine Dry 10 Years (RKW Wine Imports) -Justino’s Madeira Verdelho 10 Years (RKW Wine Imports) The Food: Madeira was served at each course. Chorizos empanadas, Shrimp beurre blanc and Smoked salmon, with Justino Fine Dry 5 Year Old, Blandy's 10 Year Old Special and Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Sercial. Beef Consomme with Madeira and juliennes of vegetables came next, with Justino 10 Year Old Verdelho and Blandy's 10 Year Old Verdelho. Half a dozen freshly shucked Oysters on ice and Champagne sorbet: the Madeiras were too sweet for these. Grain fed Guinea Hen and a Port and Veal jus, bouquetiere of broccoli, asparagus, and potato vegetables, with Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Bual. Hello? Port? Well, at least it is Portuguese. Why not Madeira? For dessert, Chocolate crème brule with strawberries dipped in chocolate, with Justino Fine Rich 10 Year Old, Blandy's 10 Year Old Malmsey and Henriques & Henriques 15 Year Old Malmsey. Canadian cheeses with Henriques & Henriques Bual 1980. The Downside: the waiters kept trying to clear our Madeira glasses, but I needed them to cross-compare with the different courses we were being served. At the trade portion, the tables were too cramped to allow for zipping in and out, and writing notes. The Upside: wow, some great wines, and it has been about 10 years since the last comprehensive Madeira tasting in Toronto. The Contact Person: William.delgado@portugalglobal.pt The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008 1 PM to 3 PM The Event: A tasting of the Wines of South Australia, led by the Honourable Rory McEwen (the SA Minister for Agriculture) and Cameron Ashmead (Elderton Wines). They provided a good commentary on the Oz wine industry today. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Event Kitchen The Target Audience: wine writers, agents and importers. The Availability/Catalogue: variously available. The Quote: Instead of a big show, the Australians are highlighting regional differences and icon wines. They are leading several classes in several different parts of Ontario throughout the year. The Wines: Every region of South Australia had a wine here except for Riverland. Coonawarra had two wines. All the wines were poured and after the tasting there was a q and a with the two speakers. But prices were hard to come by, with retail prices being vague for Ontario. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Pewsey Vale The Contours Eden Valley Riesling 2002 -Penley Estate Chertsey Cabernet Sauvignon57, Cabernet Franc15, Merlot28 Coonawarra 2005 ($50?) -Elderton Wines Command Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley – 100 year old vines ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling Clare Valley 2008 -Kelermeister Tempranillo 2005 Adelaide Hills/Barossa Valley -Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz 2006 McLaren Vale ($50?) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Di Giorgio Family Coonawarra Sparkling Pinot Noir 2007 -Zonte’s Footstep Pinot Grigio 2007 Langhorne Creek The Food: cheese platter and breads and biscuits. The Downside: there were eight wines, but it seemed a bit rushed and started a bit late, finishing well after 3 PM. The Upside: a chance to commingle with agents, The Contact Person: marie.ross@austrade.gov.au The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 8. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008 6 PM to 10 PM The Event: winemaker’s dinner for Durbanville Hills Wines (South Africa). Martin Moore the winemaker was assisted by Albert Gerber (marketing director) and Deveron Wilcock (DISTELL Canada). The Venue: Pure Spirits Oyster House, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are here, or they will be. The South African Wine Society had just hosted a winemaker’s dinner the night before at Stonegrill on Winchester. The Quote: “Without women or agents around, we can really cut loose”. The Wines: Martin believes that the wines are made in the vineyards, so everything is “fat” and sustainable, and ready to drink 2 – 4 years. The wines are terroir-driven as Martin spoke with a positive voice. The wines are repped in Ontario by PMA Wines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Rhinofields 2007 Chardonnay - $16.00 (not at the LCBO), 50/50 wood/stainless, no ML, exhibits a bit of orange mold which I adored. -Rhinofields 2006 Merlot - $16.00 (not at the LCBO) – cool climate but soft ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Durbanville Hills 2007 Sauvignon Blanc - $13.05 (available at the LCBO) -Durbanville Hills 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - $13.05 (not at the LCBO) -Rhinofields 2008 Sauvignon Blanc - $16 (not at LCBO) – les grassy -Durbanville Hills 2005 Shiraz - $13.05 (at LCBO) The Food: we ordered off the menu, with a variety of appetizers to go with the white wines (scallops, shrimps, fish, fries, mussels, calamari, mushrooms, caramelized onions) and a main to go with the reds (salmon, roasted sable fish, steaks). It was a damager. The Downside: Doris Anest from PMA could not stay for dinner. The Upside: it was bags of fun even without Doris, a sort of boys night out. The Contact Person: danalee.harris@shaw.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96. 9. The Time and Date: Friday, October 10, 2008 Noon to 2 PM The Event: A tasting of premium Chilean wines with Aurelio Montes, Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle and Eduardo Chadwick., involving their wines Casa Lapostolle, Errazuriz, Montes, and Sena – 11 wines in all. The Venue: George Restaurant, Queen Street East The Target Audience: wine writers and LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: varies according to Vintages releases. The Quote: “Sena, because of the agency representation, had its own table: it was a clear standout” The Wines: we had a table top tasting walkaround with appetizers. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Sena 2005 -- blackcurrant nose, sweet fruit and soft tannins. -Montes Alpha M 2005, $82 +91450 - (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot) , spicy, rich, cedar, red fruit -Montes Folly Syrah 2005, $82 +62356 - blackberry, spices, olives -Montes Purple Angel 2005, $51 +62364 - (46% Carmenere from Colchagua, 46% from Apalta, 8% Petit Verdot), cassis and spices, black cherry. -Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay Cuvee Alexandre 2005, $35 – creamy with a toasty finish. -Clos Apalta 2005 - (42% Carmenere, 26% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot), cassis nose, extractive, balanced, Euro sensibility. -Errazuriz Don Maximiano 2005 - (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Shiraz) ripe but also young with some rawish oak tones. -Vinedo Chadwick 2005 , $180 – 200 - (all Cabernet Sauvignon), tight and closed, but will probably mature well enough. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Errazuriz La Cumbre Shiraz 2005 - soft and toasty, blackberry. -Errazuriz Kai 2005, $180 – 200 - (88% Carmenere, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Shiraz), ripe fruit, firm, some bell pepper showing. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Apalta Vineyard 2006 - ripe, earthy. The Food: as we tasted at walk around tables, hors d’oeuvre kept appearing, some hot some cold (chicken, seafood, mushrooms, etc.). The Downside: it got crowded, and the table tops were not very large. The Upside: quality food for the quality wines. The Contact Person: Karen.lockhart@maxxium.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 95. 10. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008 3 PM to 8 PM The Event: Portfolio tasting of Portfolio Wines The Venue: Artcore Gallery, The Distillery District The Target Audience: wine media, private clients, restaurants. The Availability/Catalogue: most items are here by consignment or at Vintages. The Quote: “Everything we have is at www.portfoliowine.com, notes, ideas, etc.” The Wines: 36 wines were listed in the catalogue, although one was sold out. Prices are retail, Here are my rankings: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Weingut Skoff Sauvignon Blanc Trockenbeerenauslese 2006 11% ABV $45 375 mL -Bodegas Vina Vilano Crianza 2004 $20.95 -Mate Il Podere Falconaia di Ferenc Merlot Mantus 2004 $27.95 Vintages -Cantine due Palme Ettamiano Primitivo del Salento 2004 Puglia $19.95 -Tenuta Sant’ Isidoro Corithus IGT 2004 Lazio $16.95 (best value wine) -Domaine de Grand Vallat [biodynamic] Merlot 2005 Cotes de Ventoux $17.95 -Giant Steps Chardonnay 2006 Yarra Valley $35 -Domaine Tour Saint Michel Chateauneuf du Pape Tour de Lion Prestige 2003 $45 -Chateau Vignol Entre-deux-Mers 2007 $16.95 -Champagne Louis de Sacy Brut Rose Grand Cru NV $71 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Weingut Skoff Sauvignon Blanc Hochshulz 2006 $29.95 -Weingut Skoff Sauvignon Blanc Obegg 2006 $29.95 -Celler Cercavins Guillamina 2006 (Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo) Spain $19.95 -Bodegas Vina Vilano Reserva 2003 $30.95 -Chateau Marquis de Vauban Cuvee du Roy 2003 Premieres Cotes de Blaye $24.95 -Agrilandia Fortulla 2005 Terreatico di Bibbona Italy (CS/CF 50/50) $45 -Ruggeri Prosecco Argeo $19.95 Dec. 2008 Vintages (tried with hot sausage) -Ronchi San Giuseppe Tocai Friulano 2006 $18.95 -Rocche Costamagna Langhe Nebbiolo Roccardo 2005 $25.95 -Domaine des Peyregrandes Cuvee Marie Laurencie 2001 Faugeres $21.95 -Domaine de Grand Vallat [biodynamic] Viognier 2007 Cotes de Ventoux $25.95 -Domaine de Grand Vallat [biodynamic] GAIA 2004 Cotes de Ventoux $25.95 -Jarrah Ridge Marginata Classic (Chenin/Chardonnay 50/50) 2006 West Australia $17.95 -Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris 2007 Yarra Valley $20.95 -Champagne Louis de Sacy Brut Grand Cru NV $56 -Champagne Louis de Sacy Brut Grand Soir 2001 $85 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Rosell Mir Cava Can Guineu $20.95 -Bodegas Vina Vilano Tinto 2007 $17.95 -Azienda Marconi Bluviolet Lacrima di Morro d’Alba 2007 $19.95 -Rocche Costamagna Dolcetto d’Alba Murrae 2006 $19.95 -Rocche Costamagna Barbera d’Alba Rocche Annunziata 2005 $23.95 -Domaine de Grand Vallat [biodynamic] Rose Poline 2007 Cotes de Ventoux $18.95 -Jarrah Ridge Merlot Bud Series 2005 West Australia $19.95 -Giant Steps Pinot Noir 2006 Sexton Vineyard Yarra Valley $35 The Food: Leo Baduria knows his food and what keeps people happy – he had home cooked goodies such as roast beef, pork adobo, charcuterie, artisanal cheeses and breads, farfalle, olives, pizza, roast potatoes, veggies, and more. The Downside: the space was enormous and made us feel smaller than we were. The Upside: no power blackout like last year, when it became a candlelight meal. The Contact Person: wineportfolio@sympatico.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 11. The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10 AM to 9 PM The Event: tasting of Clos Jordanne wines, with Jay Wright (Vincor CEO), Jean-Charles Boisset (Boisset VP), Thomas Bachelder (winemaker) and Sebastien Jaquey (assistant winemaker). There was constant talk from the head table for about two hours, most of it enlightening as Bachelder reviewed all of the previous vintages. The Venue: Currie Hall at the National Ballet School. The Target Audience: in the morning and for lunch, the wine media. In the afternoon, the trade, and at night, private customers. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is, or will be, available. The Quote: “2006 was a difficult year”. The Wines: all wines are 2006 vintage, and all wines are sold by the six pack case. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2006, 130 cases, $65, Classics November 8: apple, vanillin, oak, more minerals. Coats the palate. My fave of the tasting, both red and white. -Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, 120 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: toast, vanilla, orange marmalade, minerals. Mouthfilling and long finish. -La Petite Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, 300 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: raspberry, pumpkin spices, cinnamon, elegant. -Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2006, 190 cases, $70, Classics November 8, 2008: spicy cherries, some MVC for pinot noir, longer finish. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2006, 90 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: apple, peach, oak, toast. Midweight palate Burgundian style. -Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2006, 230 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: black raspberry, earthy, spicy, cranberries, intense, -Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, 275 cases, $40, Classics March 25, 2009: raspberry, earthy, soft, very sophisticated. Cranberries. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Village Reserve Chardonnay 2006, 721 cases, $30, available December 6: apples with light vanillin, some green notes, Hautes Cotes style. -Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, 2000 cases, $30, available Dec 6: plum, cherry and raisins, some stone fruit. The Food: lunch was family style, with communal tables. We were served almost as much as we wanted of organic mesclun and a tomato-mozzarella salad, mashed potatoes and roasted root veggies, and brussels sprouts and beans provencal (although none of the greens made it down to my end of the table). The mains were beef bourguignon, halibut, and duck leg confit. Desserts were crème brulee and poached pears. The two Village wines were served. The Downside: the transit directions were wrong, with the wrong street indicated. The Upside: fabulous luncheon and a chance to taste with Vincor personnel. The Contact Person: candies.walsh@leclosjordanne.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 12. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008 2PM to 4PM The Event: a tasting of Champagne Henriot plus some Burgundies (they own Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre) recently released at Vintages, with Export Manager Anne Deraisme. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: varies, but landed. The Quote: “The house was founded in 1808, and it is still run by the family. They average about 97% of the fine crus in their blends”. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Teurons 2006, $53.95, +653675 -Henriot Brut Souverain NV, $59.95 retail, +959643 Dec. 6 Vintages -Henriot Cuvee Enchanteleurs 1995, $195, +83774, Classics Catalogue November. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bouchard Pere et Fils Cote de Beaune Villages 2005, $24.95, +714998 -William Fevre Chablis Mountmains 1er Cru 2006, $34.95, +977587 -Henriot Brut Rose NV, $89 retail, Consignment The Food: cheeses, croquettes, cheese puffs, shrimp, onion confit. The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 13. The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 10:30 AM to 2 PM The Event: a tasting of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick wines by the Wine Writers Circle of Canada, assembled by Larry Paterson The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square The Target Audience: wine writers. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available, but only in Nova Scotia. The Quote: “Castel was juicy fruit forward varietal that could be explored more in Ontario.” “Cabernet franc is about 10 years behind Ontario” The Wines: there were 38 wines for tasting. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Jost Nova Scotia 2005 Trilogy 12% $17.99 750 [Baco, Leon Millot, Foch] -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2007 Castel 13% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2006 Vidal Blanc 11.5% -Jost Nova Scotia 2005 Muscat Icewine 10% $29.98 200 mL -Gaspereau Nova Scotia 2007 Seyval Blanc 11.2% semisweet $16.99 -Gaspereau Nova Scotia 2007 New York Muscat 12.2% $19.99 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Jost Nova Scotia 2006 Cote St. George L'Acadie Blanc 11.5% $15.99 -Jost Nova Scotia 2006 Eagle Tree New York Muscat 12% $14.99 -Jost Nova Scotia 2006 L'Acadie Pinot Grigio 11.9% $12.99 -Jost Nova Scotia 2006 Cote St. George Marechal Foch 12% $14.99 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bear River Nova Scotia 2005 Black Fly Pinot Noir 12.5% $18.00 500 mL -Jost Nova Scotia 2006 Cabernet Franc 12% -Jost Nova Scotia 2006 L'Acadie Chardonnay 12% $11.99 -Gaspereau Nova Scotia2004/2005 Vitis 12.2 dry 21.99 750 Lucy K, Baco, De Chaunac -Gaspereau Nova Scotia 2007 L'Acadie Blanc 12.5% $15.99 -Saint-Famille Nova Scotia 2005 Old Vines Reserve Marechal Foch 11.8% $20 -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2007 Leon Millot 11.5% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2007 Seyval Blanc 11.5% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2007 L'Acadie Blanc Reserve 12.2% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2006 Muscat 12% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2006 Foch Reserve 12% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2007 L'Acadie Blanc 11.7% -Domaine de Grand Pre Nova Scotia 2007 Ortega Reserve 12% UNRATED – the curious wines… -Jost Nova Scotia 2005 Whisky Barrel Aged Ortega Icewine 15.5 Sweet 20.00 / 200 ml -Pre-d'en-Haut New Brunswick nv Sparkling Apple Wine 10% The Food: none The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 14. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 23, 2008 10AM to 6PM The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord). The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn The Target Audience: wine agents, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are available in Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta. Most of the wines were French, and there were sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. These 40 or so wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. Here were my faves, regardless of price: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Terre di Vinu Nielluccio 2007 Corse [red] -Jean de Meyrac Bouquet des Garrigues 2007 Cathare -La Giraudiere Saumur Vieilles Vignes 2007 -I Muvrini Muscat 2007 Ile de Beaute -Jean-Paul Mauler Pinot Gris 2007 Alsace -Vinphonie Etcetera Riesling 2007 Alsace -Vinphonie Etcetera Gewurztraminer 2007 Alsace ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Aureto Grenache Cinsault 2007 Cotes de Ventoux -I Muvrini Merlot Syrah 2007 Ile de Beaute -Layranc Merlot 2007 Pays D’Oc -Chateau de la Prat Julienas 2007 -Chateau du Caillau Malbec 2006 Cahors -Chateau Cangmey 2004 Medoc -Terre di Vinu Vermentino 2007 Corse [white] -Chateau Siffle Merle 2007 Premieres Cotes de Blaye -Doux RendezVous Syrah 2007 Pays D’Oc -Chateau de Comigne La Reserve 2006 Corbieres The Food: none. The Downside: not enough space to sprawl out and write notes. No paper was furnished, so I used some 3 by 5 cards. The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here. The next show will be in December. The Contact Person: for prices, etc, check with Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 15. The Time and Date: Monday, October 27, 2008 2Pm to 3:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Vina Carmen wines (Chile) with senior winemaker Sebastian Labbe who was in town for a few days. He spoke on the Chilean wine scene in general, and then moved on to his own company. Vina Carmen wines regularly get 88 to 93 points in diverse publications. “Wine and Spirits” magazine had named them winery of the year for 2007. The agent is Authentic Wine and Spirits Merchants, www.awsm.ca The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square, Private Tasting Room The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are here or will be. The Quote: “The Carmen newer plantings are in Limari and Pumanque, and there we will be using new ripeness assessment concepts.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Carmen Reserve Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $16.85 +439166 GL – formerly known as Grand Vidure, and a personal fave of mine. 60% Carmenere and 40% cabernet sauvignon, vinified separately. -Nativa Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $19.95 Vintages – soon to be spun off into its own organic wines winery -Vina Carmen Gold Reserve 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon – n/a, from single vineyard vines planted in 1957. -Vina Carmen Gold Reserve 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon – $49.95, very Euro ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Carmen Reserve Chardonnay 2006 Casablanca, $18.95 – 45% BF -Vina Carmen Classic Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $10.95 +789890 GL – 10% syrah added. -Vina Carmen Reserve Petit Syrah 2004, $18.95 – woody nose -Vina Carmen Late Harvest Muscatel 2007 - $15 half-bottle, 15% botrytised *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Carmen Classic Chardonnay 2007 Casablanca, $9.70 +235663 GL The Food: bread and water The Contact Person: pdelpeschio@awsm.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 16. The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 3PM to 10 PM The Event: 3rd annual Family of Wines Gala from Stem Wine Group Inc. The Venue: Eglinton Grand Event The Target Audience: private customers, restaurateurs, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: everything is here or will be via consignment and private orders. The catalogue was a model of efficiency, with a quick section on how to use the guide. All prices were given, as well as the terms. The wines were listed by region and producer, in table order. Helpful cards were placed at each table, with more details about each wine. This really saved me a lot of time, and I am sure the patrons appreciated it. The Quote: “Ah, the sweet refrains of engaging smooth jazz.” There was a live quintet performing. The Wines: in no real order beyond rating levels. Most of Stem’s principals are Italian. Prices are retail. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Tenuta Monteti Maremma Toscana 2005 - $59.99 -Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni 2005 Umbria - $124.99 -Az. Agr. Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Villa Gemma 2003 - $79.99 -Boroli Barolo Villero Riserva 1998 - $125.99 -Maison Camille Giroud Chambertin Grand Cru 2003 - $249 +76620 Classics -Cantine Giovanni Viberti Barolo Buon Padre 2001 - $56.99 -Zyme Amarone della Velpolicella 2001 - $200 – one of my faves in this showcase. -Az. Agr. Collemattoni Adone IGT Tuscany [sang/merlot] - $19.95 -Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2003 - $140 -Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2003 - $109.99 -Cantine Delibori Villabella Fracastoro Amarone 2001 ORGANIC - $65.95 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Az. Agr. Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2006 - $49.99 -Ktima Lantides Icon Roditis 2005 Greece - $17.99 -Boroli Barolo Villero Riserva 1999 - $119.99 -Malenchini Bruzzico IGT Tuscany 2003 [sang/cabsauv] - $37.95 +658427 Vintages -Az. Agr. Forchir Pinot Grigio Rosadis 2007 Friuli - $15.99 -Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2006 Meredith Estate - $89.99 -Coup de Foudre Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley - $200 -Andeluna Cellars Winemaker’s Selection Torrontes Mendoza - $15.99 -Bodegas Darien Reserva 2002 Rioja - $26.99 -Vinicola Tombaco Terre Nuove Syrah 2007 Sicilia - $12.99 -Bishop’s Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Paso Robles - $27.99 -David Franz Lehmann Georgie’s Walk Cabernet 2003 Barossa Valley - $51.99 -La Fattoria di Magliano Perenzo Syrah 2006 IGT Tuscany - $64.99 -Arnaldo Caprai Grecante Grechetto dei Colli Martani 2007 Umbria - $27.99 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Boroli Barolo Cerequio 2003 - $109.99 -Az. Agr. Ca’ del Baio Moscato d’Asti 2006 - $23.99 -Az. Agr. Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino 2003 - $59.99 -Az. Agr. Buglioni Amarone della Valpolicella 2003 - $64.99 -Jax Vineyards Chardonnay 2006 Napa Valley - $33.95 +67264 Vintages -La Fattoria di Magliano Heba Morellino di Scansano 2006 Tuscany - $27.99 -Grayson Cellars Chardonnay 2007 Central Coast - $18.99 -Cantine Delibori Merlot 2006 IGT Veneto - $10.99 -Cantine Delibori Amarone della Valpolicella 2004 - $34.99 The Food: first rate porchetta, truffled mushroom risotto, various crostini and bruschetta, a Parmigiano Reggiano half-wheel, and focaccia. The Downside: I had to run off to two other wine tasting events in the early evening, so I could not taste all the wines here. The Upside: great food, great company, fantastic catalogue layout. The Contact Person: robert@stemwinegroup.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96, 17. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 11:30 AM to 5 PM The Event: an all day session with Mission Hill Family Estate: the Oculus Vintage Affair. We had a luncheon with Anthony von Mandl (Proprietor) and Ingo Grady (Director of Wine Education). Both spoke about the wines, the new release of Oculus 2005 and the inaugural releases of Perpetua (a new single vineyard chardonnay) and the premium red blend Quatrain. This was followed by Grady’s masterclass, which added the unreleased Oculus 2006 for a vertical tasting. The Venue: Spoke Club, King Street West The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines are available via LCBO, Consignment, or Private Order. The Quote: “This is our first ever Eastern Canada launch”. During the masterclass, Grady’s presentation was augmented by an extensive handbook. While Oculus has the same four grapes (M/CS/CF/PV), the proportions vary from year to year, the French oak aging time varies, the use of new oak varies, etc. The Wines: we tasted a variety of VQA wines at the luncheon, the seminar, and the open portfolio tasting. I did not have time to taste the non-VQA wines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Oculus 2004 +965789 $70 -Oculus 2005 +220029 $60 -Oculus 2006 not yet released -Quatrain 2005 +220045 $47.95 (M57/Syrah28/CF10/CS5: this meant that there was no SLC Syrah bottling in 2005) -Select Lot Collection Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2006 +220060 Consignment $26.95 -Select Lot Collection Chardonnay 2006 +220078 $26.95 -Reserve Chardonnay 2006 +545004 $21.95 Vintages Essentials ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Perpetua 2006 +220052 $32.95 – Burgundian style, sur lies -Select Lot Collection Merlot 2004 +144187 Consignment -Select Lot Collection Riesling Icewine 2005 +965797 $79.95 375 mL -Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006 +57430 $21.95 Vintages -Reserve Merlot 2006 +218379 $22.95 Consignment -Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 +553321 $24.95 Vintages Essentials -Prospect Winery Spotted Lake Sauvignon Blanc 2007 +214725 $14.95 Consignment -Prospect Winery Census Count Chardonnay 2006 +220102 $14.95 LCBO General *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Select Lot Collection Syrah +144179 $36.95 -Reserve Pinot Gris 2007 +220011 $19.95 Consignment -Prospect Winery Ogopogo’s Lair Pinot Grigio 2007 +220136 $14.95 Consignment -Prospect Winery Red Willow Shiraz 2006 +220144 $15.95 Consignment The Food: nothing at the portfolio tasting nor the masterclass, but the wine press had a luncheon with baked tomato and olive tart, lobster ravioli (good with SLC Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon), seared scallops, elk chop (Oculus and Quatrain), and crème brulee (SLC Riesling Icewine 2005) The Downside: we started later than usual, and thus the luncheon ran into the masterclass time. Then we had to wait for the portfolio setup. The Upside: the vertical Oculus tasting. The Contact Person: lpike@missionhillwinery.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH But first a spirit: SKINOS MASTIHA SPIRIT (DS Concepts), +91033 Vintages, $37.95 for 700 mL, a digestive, 30% ABV. It contains extract from Mastiha (the “crying tree”) which flourishes only on the island of Chios in the Mediterranean. Each tree produces between 80 to 200 grams of resin “tears” each year. The resulting oil has been renowned for its medicinal properties. Distillation is with added alcohol; after that, some sugar and de-ionized water are added. Skinos is the ancient Greek name for mastiha. You can use it with lemonade, tonic water, with lemons and basil leaves, as a martini. Or as a shot with a bite into a wedge of tangerine. I was introduced to it at the launch party of Taste of the Danforth in August. A. From Hillebrand in Niagara, in its Artist Series, mid-price range, all 2007 vintage, and all twist topped: 1. Hillebrand Artists Series Riesling 2007 VQA: 11.5% ABV, lighter Riesling tones, more toward apples and lemons. $10.75 for 750mL (+88377) and $19.95 for magnums at Vineyard Estate Wines stores. 2. Hillebrand Artists Series Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA: 12.5% ABV, herby with refreshing stone fruit and some melons. $10.45 at winery. 3. Hillebrand Artists Series Muscat 2007 VQA: 11%, off-dry sipper with grapey and peach tones, some orange too. A good wine to sit around with. $11.95 at Vineyard Estate Wine stores and at the winery. 4. Hillebrand Artists Series Gamay Noir Rose 2007 VQA: 12% ABV. The PR notes mention cherry, strawberry jam, and red currant jelly, with some rhubarb flavours. The label mentions NONE of this, but does mention raspberry. I found it a lot like JuicyFruit, but very fresh and refreshing. $11.95 at Vineyards Estate Wines stores and the winery. 5. Hillebrand Artists Series Gamay Noir 2007 VQA: 12% ABV is extremely youthful and plumy, but with some toast and tartness. Late fall BBQ. $11.45, +58610 at the LCBO. 6. Hillebrand Artists Series Meritage 2007 VQA: 13% ABV. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc in a traditional Bordeaux blend. But it is too early yet to tell, although the body is medium styled. The 2005 was dynamite for the price, and there is no reason to suspect anything less here. $12.95 bargain priced, +56390 at LCBO. B. Other Hillebrand wines noted: 7. Hillebrand Limited Edition Series Sauvignon Blanc 2007 VQA: 13% ABV. Definitely a step up from the Artist Series, with some pineapple, good acidity, herbal; body, and terrific with food. Only 362 cases made. $16.95 at the winery. 8. Hillebrand Limited Edition Series Gewurztraminer 2007 VQA: 13% ABV, classic Alsatian mode, floral with a spicy finish. $16.95 at the winery. 9. Hillebrand Limited Edition Series Pinot Gris 2007 VQA: 13% ABV, with a sweet core of stone fruit plus pear puree. $16.95 at the winery. C. From Colio Estate Wine, in its new Girls’ Night Out brand (with the shapely dresses on the labels), VQA from Lake Erie North Shore. Women buy more wine than men: 10. Colio Estate Wine Girls’ Night Out Chardonnay VQA Lake Erie North Shore: 12.7%, refreshing from stainless steel tanks, with 3% gewürztraminer added for extra aromatics. Definitely floral, some musk quality? +89821, $12.95. 11. Colio Estate Wine Girls’ Night Out Merlot/Chardonnay 2007 VQA Lake Erie North Shore: 12.5% ABV, not marketed as a rose. Merlot is 60% of the blend, rest is chardonnay. Taste has been described as red berry and rhubarb pie, as in “strawbs and barb” (my term). 12. Colio Estate Wine Girls’ Night Out Merlot 2006 VQA Lake Erie North Shore: 13.3% ABV, a bit heavy for the line but aggressive flavours due to a year in oak barrels. Note the vintage: one year earlier than the other two. Plummy and toasty. Twenty-five cents from each bottle sold will go to a bursary for female students enrolled in second year trades at Ontario CAATs. There is also a Vintage Gems jewelry box, which will be available for purchase during the Christmas season for $49.95, which includes one of each of the three wines. That’s $11.10 for the box, which has clear plastic door inserts and a drawer. More details at www.girlsnightoutwines.com D. From Applewood Farm Winery, a sustainable and natural fruit winery with a modest level of grape production, located in Stouffville. It has not yet applied for organic certification. No products are at the LCBO, so you’ll have to order from the winery: www.applewoodfarmwinery.com -- 13. Raspberry Cider Crazy Eights (or, Crazy 8s), $3 a 341 mL capped bottle, 8.8% ABV. This must be my all-time favourite drink – intense raspberry tones, slightly off-dry (less sweet but more fruit flavour than last year), and nice fizz. Sparkling fruit wines are gorgeous, and this one at just below 9% surely qualifies as a wine. 14. Strawberry Cider, $10.95, 750 mL sparkler, 70% apple wine and 30% strawberries. From a tank sample. Overwhelming flavours of strawberries, despite only a 30% usage. Slight undertones of malic acid, but still more strawbs than one expected. Dee-licious. 15. Mac Meade Sparkling, $12.95 750 mL, 7% ABV, winner of “Best of Category” Gold at the 2008 All Canada Wine Competition. A glorious combination of Macintosh apples and mead, some apple peel with botrytis. My company raved about it, it was so intense with honeyed tones and a slight malic acid on the palate. 16. Dry Macintosh 2007, $9.95 for 750 mL, November release, spends a year on lees for added complexity. My sample had a clean, crisp, and clear body, slightly full, with tons of apple peel and an off-dry finish. One to put up against a stainless steel Chardonnay. 17. Applewood Farm Elora’s Harvest 2007, $12.95 750 mL, 12% ABV, 55% Macintosh apples and 45% Seyval Blanc grapes. This “social” wine has an off-sweet combination without an overpowering apple complexity. 18. Applewood Farm Proprietor’s Reserve 2007, $14.95 750 mL, 13% ABV, comprised of Dornfelder (a red grape very important in Germany), Baco Noir, and black cherries. Impressively deep wine, with a backbone of, of course, cherries. Very fragrant and intense, slightly off-dry. E. From Peter Mielzynski Agencies (PMA): 19. Drostdy-Hof Chardonnay 2007, $9.65 LCBO +343202, very nice citrusy character, suits a wide range of dishes. Gentle vanilla and oak tones. “Killer Value” status as a top performing wine under $15, at the 2008 International Value Wine Awards (Wine Access). 20. Drostdy-Hof Merlot 2007, $9.95 LCBO +34571, red fruit and smaller spices, minor oak presence, good performer and matcher for the Chardonnay as a red-white pair. “Killer Value” status as a top performing wine under $15, at the 2008 International Value Wine Awards (Wine Access). F. From Chateau des Charmes: 21. Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2005 St. David’s Bench VQA: $19.95 at winery. 13% ABV, barrel-fermented and then aged sur lie for one year on French oak. Nicely full-bodied wine with elements of tropicality and a creamy texture. Complex, but will open up in future years. Like most Chateau des Charmes wines, this one can take a few more years of aging, and get better. 22. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 St. David’s Bench VQA: $25.95 at winery. 13% ABV. Aged one year in French oak, showing MVC of Bordeaux quality – cassis, tobacco, some mocha, even some red fruit. Needs a bit of time to resolve, keep another five years. 23. Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2006 Niagara on the Lake VQA: $19.95 at winery. Year in and year out, great value in a racy off- dry finish Late Harvest Riesling. Some tropicality but more peaches, 11% ABV, can hold for some time and get even better! Good Riesling character, demands blue cheese. G. From Stoney Ridge, all available at the winery: 24. Stoney Ridge Reserve Cabernet Franc 2006 Wismer Vineyard 20 Mile Bench, 13.5% ABV, two years of oak aging, with notes of black fruit (cherry, blackberry), some forest floor but also an unexpected medium body. 25. Stoney Ridge Reserve Chardonnay 2006, 12.5% ABV, softer tropical fruit, some cream and condensed milk, top notes of melons. 26. Stoney Ridge Rose 2007, a winning formula of a dynamite blend of pinot noir and Riesling. There is summer in every drop here, floral strawbs and off-dry finish. From the fabled 2007 vintage. 27. Stoney Ridge Reserve Merlot 2006, 12.5% ABV, oak aged, plumy and soft, an MVC merlot with some leafy tobacco notes. 28. Stoney Ridge Icewine Vidal 2007, 8.5% ABV, 200 mL, smartly marketed in the smaller bottle (the bottle is also more stable when standing up). Brix was apparently 37.7 – 46.7. Highly concentrated, good apricot tones set off by some tropicality. New winemaker Ray Cornell’s first vintage for Stoney Ridge. 29. Stoney Ridge Icewine Riesling 2007, 8.5% ABV, 200 mL. Good value in a smaller bottle. Harvested January 20, 2008, pure apricot and peaches, with a note of bracing acidity. 30. Stoney Ridge Icewine Cabernet Franc 2007, 11.5% ABV, 200 mL bottle. Barrel fermented in French oak, salmon colour, red fruit components (cream soda-like?), higher acid and alcohol makes it appear less sweet. Needs dark chocolate, say 85% level. ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday September 10, 2008 11AM to 1:30 PM The Event: Media Preview Tasting of Wines of Chile, in advance of the October 1 show at the Fermentations in the Distillery District. The Venue: Crush Wine Bar (downstairs) The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available in the LCBO system except for two which were private orders. The Quote: “Some amazing wines here…” The Wines: some 50 wines were offered in a blind tasting. Sometimes we did not know the varietals. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Cousino Macul Riesling Dona Isidora 2007, +57182, $11.95. -Vina Amayna Chardonnay 2006 Leyda Valley, +76265 Vintages, $23.25. -Vina Caliterra Carmenere Tributo 2006, $16.95 consignment (Calibrium). -Vina Valdivieso Malbec Reserva 2006, $22.45 consignment (Carriage Trade) -Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Syrah Haras Elegance 2004, +640672 Vintages, $33.75. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina MontGras Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2007 +58632, $11.95. -Vina Maipo Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Especial 2008 +81216 Vintages Nov. 22, $16.95 -Vina Maipo Carmenere Reserva 2007 Rapel, $13.95 consignment (Select) -Vina Botalcura Carmenere La Porfia Grand Reserve 2005, +61887, Vintages, $18.95. -Vina Undurraga Carmenere Sibaris Reserva Especial 2007, +96602 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Cono Sur Pinot Noir Vision 2007, +689992 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Errazuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2006, +614750, $17.75. -Vina Haras de Pirque Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Albis 2004, +579813 Vintages, $55. -Vina Anakena Cabernet/Merlot/Carmenere ONA 2006, +59493, $17.95. -Vina Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005, +32110 Vintages, $17.95. -Vina Requingua Cabernet Sauvignon Toro De Piedra Reserva 2006, +39362 Vintages, $14.95. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Cono Sur Carmenere Vision 2007, +59360 Vintages, $15.95. -Vina Cousino Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reservas 2006, +212993, $15.45. -Vina MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2007, +619205, $12.20. -Vina Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna Reserve 2006, +177451 Vintages, $14.95. The Food: basic gourmet sandwiches and salads from Crush. The Downside: initially, there was no paper on which to write notes. The Upside: relaxing, easy to focus on the task at hand, no one talking to me. The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 1 PM to 3:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Fabiano (Veneto) wines, and a lunch. The Venue: Romagna Mia The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available. We tasted four off the General List, plus five that are on Rapid Release at the LCBO for Saturday September 27. Apparently, Veneto wines are the hottest category, and the LCBO could not wait until October 25 when a huge release of Veneto wines are to appear. The Quote: “Romagna Mia is doing a festival of Fabiano wines this month.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fabiano Negraro Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +96875, $23.95. -Fabiano I Fondatori Amarone 2003, +96859, $75.95 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fabiano Storica Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +96883, $18.95. -Fabiano Rugala Amarone 2004, +96867, $45.95 -Fabiano Storica Amarone 2004, +673566, $47.95 -Fabiano Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006, +34058, $14.65 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fabiano Pinot Grigio Terre Degli Osci 2007, +34066, $14.65 -Fabiano Valpolicella, +117259, $16.75 en magnum 1.5L -Fabiano Soave, +116988, $13.75 en magnum, 1.5L The Food: to accompany the wines, which we could drink and match in any order, we had mixed Italian cold cuts with diverse breads, strozzapreti all Romagnola (a meat-based sauced pasta), and the dolce of gelato al Parmigiana-Reggiano (cheese ice cream) – the latter paired nicely with the Amarone. Plus coffee. The Downside: it was lightly attended, maybe because it conflicted with other tastings plus the LCBO Tuesday tasting. Product Consultants were skedded to come after 3:30. The Upside: enough room to spread out and to question the agent, Laura Higgins of Eurovintage The Contact Person: Laura Higgins vintages@eurovintage.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday September 16, 2008 3 PM – 5 PM The Event: a tasting of two newish California wineries, Ceago Vinegarden (Biodynamically Certified by Demeter) located in Lake County and owned by Jim Fetzer, and Jeriko Estate (Organic Certified) located in Mendocino County and owned by Daniel Fetzer. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street West The Target Audience: wine writers. The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines have been sourced and will be available through different streams of Vintages, Consignment, Private Orders, and the like, through the Ontario agent, The Living Vine (Mark Cuff). The Quote: “The Fetzers are brothers, and now have finished their eight year non-compete clause since selling Fetzer Vineyards to Brown Forman”. The Wines: all of these organic wines were very good quality and fairly priced. We were also able to taste a few other organic wines from the Living Vine portfolio; these are also included below. Prices are retail. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Tres Sabores Napa Valley Rutherford Perque No? Zinfandel 2005, $29.95 [dense, chunky] -Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Spatlese 2007, $36.95 [ripe body] -Erbaluna La Morra Piedmont Barolo 2004 Vigna Rocche, $67.95 [quality, extract] -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Sauvignon Blanc Kathleen’s Vineyard 2007, $25.95 [good MVC} -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Chardonnay 2006, $19.95 [well-integrated oak] -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Merlot 2004, $26.95 [dynamite finish] ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Erbaluna La Morra Piedmont Barolo 2004, $54.95 -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Chardonnay Del Lago 2007 $28.95 -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Cabernet Franc Del Lago 2005, $55.95. -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Merlot Del Lago 2006, $30.95. -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Brut Sparkling Wine 2005, Chardonnay, [first organic sparkler in North America], $39.95. -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Syrah 2004, $26.95. -Jeriko Estate Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $30.95. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Organic Vignerons South Australia Grenache/Viognier Rose 2007, $18.75 [off-dry] -Vina Esencia Mendoza Occhioverde Unoaked Merlot 2007, $16.95 -Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Kabinett Off-Dry 2007, $23.95 -Heyl Zu Herrnsheim Rheinhessen Riesling Estate 2007, $25.95 -Ceago Vinegarden Clear Lake California Syrah 2006, $30.95 The Food: California styled pizza at room temperature; the one with bitter greens was excellent. Apparently, one writer (NOT me) finished off all the pizza. The Downside: this was a hurry-up call, with barely 15 hours notice. The Upside: a chance to taste some really good Demeter and Organic wines. The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 10AM to 2 PM The Event: unveiling of the results of a national study on the perception of French wines, done by CROP for Sopexa. The Venue: Third floor gallery of Burroughes Building, Queen St West The Target Audience: wine importers, media The Quote: “Overall, there was nothing new…BUT there is hard evidence to support what we already knew about. That’s useful” In summary, promotional activities revolve around in-store tastings, newsletters, wine classes, and newspaper articles. The demographics were 18-24 (entry level, cheap, social wines); 24-34 (exoticism, social), 35-54 (hard core), and 55+ (traditional, no real health concerns). French wines, of course, really do well in Quebec, but taper off as one moves westward. There was a suggestion that Sopexa could downsize its Montreal office and enlarge its Vancouver office for more promotion, especially with VANOC 2010. The survey made no distinction between Cellared in Canada and VQA wines, which was unfortunate since most people reported drinking “Canadian” wines. The overall perception of French wines: too expensive, not daring enough, snobby. There was little attachment to French wines outside of Quebec. But there is a potential for growth in Canada through awareness of more artisanal wineries and wine education, such as a French wine club (the former Compagnons de Vins de France? Come on down, Kristine Bach…). The Wines: with the lunch, we sampled some wines from France (where else?): Leon Beyer Pinot Gris 2006 Alsace (attractive), Domaine Lamargue Viognier 2007, Le Bourgogne Chanson Pinot Noir 2006, Chateau Pey La Tour Reserve 2006 (needs time; Vintages Essentials), and the stunning Mas des Bressades Cabernet Syrah 2006 (from Vinexx). The Food: a nice spread of salmon and chicken, plus salads and whole grains, desserts, etc., from Daniel et Daniel. The Downside: too much data was transmitted too fast, and there were no handouts to rely on. We desperately needed summary sheets. The Upside: the survey covered more than French wines – other countries’ wines were also analyzed and how Canadians perceived them. The Contact Person: annmarie.koumettou@sopexa.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 7PM to 10PM The Event: a Torley dinner with Ilona Kallay (export director) and Robert Koczuba (sparkling wines winemaker), repped by Whitehall. The Venue: Courtyard Restaurant and Bistro, Yorkville The Target Audience: wine writers’ circle The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available now at the LCBO. The Quote: “The Hungarian company makes about 37 million bottles a year, including the standards Jaszbery Riesling and Szekszardi Voros”. The Wines: Torley is part of a company which includes Hungarovin and Chapel Hill, the latter name used for exported single varietal wines. All of the wines were showcased against Hungarian food which we ordered off the menu. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Hungaria Grand Cuvee Brut, +619288, $11.10, largest selling sparkler in PQ, mostly chardonnay, and it shows in its slight citrus finish. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Hungarovin Debroi Cuvee 2007, $7.95, 11.5%, spicy off-dry finish, well-priced. - *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chapel Hill Pinot Grigio 2007, $10 next summer, twist top, 12%, limes. -Hungaria Pinot Noir 2006, $14.95, 12.5%, made for the UK market, 200 cases once at Vintages, some 17 stores report small stock remaining. The Food: I had the mussels and the veal paprikash, passing on the dessert. These wines are certainly food driven, and tasted much better in the mouth with the meal. The Downside: personally, I had a quick misreading of the invite, and I thought we were going to meet Turley wines from California. Ah, not this time. The Upside: a chance to ask questions while breaking bread. The Contact Person: john.brandon@whitehall.ca. The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, September 18, 2008 2:30 – 5 PM The Event: the 2008 Sonoma Wine Affair The Venue: Arcadian Court, The Bay The Target Audience: wine media, wine trade, sommeliers The Availability/Catalogue: wines were all over the map, with access through Vintages or Consignment or Private Order. The Quote: “Nice, quiet little show, no feel of being rushed. It was 5 PM before I even knew it. What happened to E & J Gallo? They were only in Vancouver”. The Wines: I did not try all the wines. Notable with their absence from Toronto were Gallo and Geyser Peak, plus Schug Carneros and Sonoma Cutrer. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages 2004 $105 -Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $80 Vintages March 2009 -Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs 2004 Vintages sparkler -Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2006 $39.65 Lorac -Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill Estate 2006 $26.99 Mark Anthony -Rodney Strong Symmetry Meritage 2005 Mark Anthony -Seghesio Family Home Ranch Zinfandel 2006 $45 Dionysus ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Arrowood Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2005 $49.95 Vintages -Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2005 $45 Vintages March 2009 Authentic -Ferrari-Carano Winery Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2006 $40.25 -Flowers Winery Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2006 $66 Rogers -La Crema Chardonnay 2006 -Landmark Steel Plow Syrah 2006 $39.65 Lorac -Pedroncelli Winery Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley 2006 $14 Grape Expectations. -Ravenswood Barricia Zinfandel 2005 -Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005 -Sebastiani Vineyards Secolo 2006 Vintages February 2009 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Blackstone Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $16.95 -Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 $37.95 Consignment John Gibson Agencies -Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007 -Ferrari-Carano Winery Fume Blanc 2007 $23.95 Authentic -Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2006 $26.50 Lifford -Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2006 $26.50 Lifford -Kendall Jackson Vintner`s Reserve Chardonnay 2006 -Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2006 The Vine -Trentadue Merlot Alexander Valley 2005 $31.20 John Gibson -Trentadue La Storia Zinfandel Alexander Valley 2004 $35 John Gibson The Food: cheese and pate, crackers, lots of fresh veggies left over. The Downside: nothing really, but the pates and terrines proved all- too-tempting for my over-indulgence. The Upside: a chance to taste some really great wines – it has been three years since the Sonoma team came to Toronto. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 4PM to 8PM The Event: a select client wine tasting by Vinexx, showing off most of their portfolio. The Venue: Le Select Bistro. The Target Audience: clients, wine media, LCBO The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through Vintages or Consignment. Selected higher end California wines (Cohn, Dry Creek, Cline, Dutton Goldfield) are by private order only. The Quote: “There are a lot more people here than last year; that’s good news!” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dutton Goldfield Russian River Chardonnay 2006, $525 case of 12 -Chateau des Charmes NV Brut Niagara on the Lake, +207944, $22.95 -Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling 2006 Niagara on the Lake, +432930, $19.95 for 375 mL. -Graham Beck Franschoek South Africa Rhona Muscadel 2003, $16.8%, $21.80 for 500 mL. -Mas des Bressades Costieres de Nimes Cabernet Syrah 2006, +712174, $18.95. -Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva 2004, +177345, $23.95. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dutton Goldfield Russian River Pinot Noir 2006, $565 case of 12 -B.R. Cohn Sonoma Chardonnay 2007, $360 a case of 12 -Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Merlot 2005, 13.5%, $303 case of 12 -Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, 13.5%, $300 case of 12 -Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling 2005, $28.95, Vintages in December. -Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay St.David’s Bench 2005, +430991, $19.95. -Canyon Oaks Central Valley California Chardonnay 2007, $13.80 consignment. -Chateau des Charmes Estate Riesling Niagara on the Lake 2006, +277228, $16.95. -Cline Cellars Sonoma Zinfandel 2006, +489278, $12.95 -Graham Beck Western Cape South Africa The William 2003 [cabernets, pinotage], +593467, $24.95. -Chateau des Charmes Estate Cabernet Merlot 2004 Niagara-on-the-Lake, +222372, $19.95 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Cline Cellars Sonoma Live Oak Zinfandel Contra Costa County, 15.5%, $229.50 case of 6. -Cline Cellars Sonoma Big Break Oak Zinfandel Contra Costa County, 15.5%, $229.50 case of 6. -Cline Cellars Sonoma Syrah 2006, +733758, $12.95. -Errazuriz Ovalle Colchagua Valley Panul Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006, $14.65 consignment. -Jacuzzi Vineyards Sonoma Primitivo 2005, +67736 $18.95 The Food: finger foods from servers included terrific pied de cochon, quiche lorraine, tarte nicoise, mushroom tart, pork and chicken liver terrine, steak tartare, and salmon gravlax. This probably hits all the major culinary regions of France. The Downside: it was an almost perfect experience. The Upside: a great chance to catch up with Michele Bosc of Chateau des Charmes. The Contact Person: jdesautels@vinexx.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 8. The Time and Date: Friday, September 26, 2008 10:30 AM to 1 PM The Event: Wine Writer’s Circle of Canada tasting with Peter Gamble, initial winemaker for Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge and Niagara’s Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery. The Venue: LCBO Event Kitchen, Scrivener Square. The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: the Ravines are being released now, the Benjamin Bridges will be along in a few months to a few years. The Quote: “Peter Gamble seems to be a one-man road show for the Bridges, and now he is building over a Ravine”. The Wines: Peter provided us with a comprehensive commentary on all of the wines. 23 wines were shown. And certainly one could tell the 2007 wines from the rest, especially in the reds. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ravine Vineyard Estate Chardonnay 2007, $24 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2007, $38 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Redcoat 2007 [cabernets, merlot], $19 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, $32 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Merlot 2007, $34 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Merlot Reserve 2007, $55 (90%M/10%CS) – the finest red wine of the tasting, very Euro. Ravine also makes a Reserve Red (a super Bordeaux). -Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve Sparkling 2004 (57%PN/22%C/15%Vidal/6%L’Acadie), to be released in 2011. 225 cases. One of the finest MC sparklers ever made in Canada. We also tasted an Experimental Brut from 2003, a Chardonnay Blend from 2002, and a Blanc de Noirs from 2002. All were excellent, but all were not to be available. -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch 2004, $25 in September 2009? From Anne Sperling’s recipe. -Benjamin Bridge Sauvignon Blanc 2005, was a pur laine style from the Loire. Not available, unfortunately. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ravine Vineyard Estate Gewurztraminer 2007, $22 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Meritage 2007, $24 -Ravine Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc 2006, $34 -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch 2005, for Sept 2010 release. -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch Reserve 2006, for Sept 2011 release. -Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2007 Sparkling Muscat [muscats, perle of csaba, et al], $23, a moscato d’asti type wine, now sold out at $23 in Nova Scotia. The Food: only water. The Downside: we were also skedded to taste some 38 Nova Scotia wines with Larry Patterson, but we ran out of time. That tasting will now occur in October. The Upside: Peter Gamble is a very easy guy to question, no PR bluff here. The Contact Person: peterjgamble@sympatico.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 95. 9. The Time and Date: Friday, September 26, 2008 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM The Event: a premium wine tasting hosted by Barone Francesco Ricasoli and Diamond Estates Wines and Spirits. Brolio is the largest chianti classico estate under vine. The Venue: Boiler House Restaurant, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: all of the 6 wines we tasted were available through the LCBO, Vintages, or by Consignment. The Quote: “In 1993 Francesco Ricasoli purchased back the family business after more than 20 years of foreign ownership. Quality immediately jumped up, and 30,000 visitors turn up every year. 210 hectares (out of 250 total) have been replanted since 1994, more than 150 for 15 clones of sangiovese. 80% of the wines are exported.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva, Consignment, $27.95 -Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2001 Chianti Classico, $49.95, Classics. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ricasoli Campo Ceni 2006, +241844, $12.85, with added merlot and oak components, fresh and juicy. -Ricasoli Brolio 2005 Chianti Classico, +3962, $24. 2006 is coming in now. -Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2004 Chianti Classico, $49.95, Vintages Feb 14, 2009. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ricasoli Casalferro 2004 Toscana IGT, +92973, $39.95, Vintages Feb 14, 2009. The Food: there were an assortment of appetizers, including min-burgers on ciabatta buns, stuffed potatoes, mushrooms with tomato and cheese, lamb chops, prosciuto on fried bread, and salmon scones. The Downside: in the race to get from Scrivener Square to the Distillery District, I had no time for lunch. So I welcomed the appetizers which we had with the food. The Upside: a great chance to catch up with both Brolio and Chianti Classico. The Contact Person: sanderson@diamondwines.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 10. The Time and Date: Monday, September 29, 2008 Noon to 2:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Podere Poggio Scalette’s “Il Carbonaione” with the owener Vittorio Fiore. The wine agency is Profile Wine Group. The Venue: Grano The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers and restaurateurs The Availability/Catalogue: there is a Vintages Internet release of 10 cases (60 bottles) of the 2004, about $64 for licensees. None of the other wines are available, not even in their cellars. The Quote: The property is in Greve (Chianti Classico) and the majority of vines are 70 years old. The grapes are Sangiovese di Lamole, an original clone. Fiore’s top wine is Il Carbonaione, with its first vintage in 1992. He consistently used French (90%) and US (10%) oak, with the latter used for promoting aromatics. The Wines: malolactic fermentation is used. The clone does not exhibit any sour cherries, just cherry notes. We went from 2004 through 1992. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Il Carbonaione 2001: slightly mature nose and colour, ripe flavours keep on coming, good long finish a bit tannic. Only bottles left in the cellar are magnums. My fave wine with the food. -Il Carbonaione 1999: eucalyptus on the nose, but dissipates with a touch of brett returning. Generous mouthfeel, some mocha tones and a fruity mid-palate. -Il Carbonaione 1994: burnt nose, good aging, still vibrant, bright, slight hint of mint, medium-bodied, a bit light on the finish, may be beginning to fade? ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Il Carbonaione 2004: dense but fresh nose, somewhat closed, minty, textured ripe cherries, hot finish, chewy at times, soft ML. -Il Carbonaione 1992: incredible Bordeaux character, principally from the leafy tones, some underbrush, soft on mid-palate, excellent finish. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Il Carbonaione 1996: old nose, old mouthfeel and finish. A bit tired? Flat, lean, did not evolve and died in the glass, turning shrill an hour later. It has been described as “lean and compact”, and initially went well with food. The Food: following foccacia breads, we had an assortment of salamis, prosciuttos, and sausages with tomatoes and basil and mozzarella. The pasta was with rabbit, tomatoes and garlic. The main was pistachio crusted lamb chops. We were able to try the wines against the food, and vice versa. It was a stunning and enjoyable lunch, since we had all six verticals to try. The Contact Person: info@profilewinegroup.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 11. The Time and Date: Monday, September 29, 2008 6:30 PM to 10 PM The Event: a tasting of recent Marlborough Stoneleigh and Montana New Zealand wines, with Jim Robertson, Global Business Relations Manager for Pernod Ricard New Zealand. The Venue: Ki, BCE Place The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines are coming onto the marketplace; these are the latest vintage (2008 for whites, 2007 for Pinots) The Quote: The Wines: PRNZ makes about 40,000 cases of Pinot Noir. 76% of their exports are Sauvignon Blanc wine. This is the 30th vintage of Sauvignon Blanc for the Montana range. Other wines were also poured. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2007 – 30% aged in oak -Montana Reserve Pinot Noir 2006 Central Otago -Montana Letter Series T (Terraces) Pinot Noir 2007 ($29.95) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2007 -Brancott Sauvignon Blanc 2007 -Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($24.95) -Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Pinot Noir 2007 ($24.95) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) -Stoneleigh Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) -Brancott Montana South Island Pinot Grigio 2008 -Stoneleigh Marlborough Pinot Gris 2008 The Food: we had the private function menu, which consisted of endless streams of Asiatic food, beginning with a salad (seaweed salad) or a soup (miso cream chowder with seafood and truffle oil; I found the oil to be overwhelming). This was followed by makimonos of yellowfin, tempura butterfish, and beef maki. Next up were cold plates of yellowfin belly, tuna and salmon, ika, and a Toro tower. Veggies at this point were white and sweet potatoes, asparagus, enoki and shiitake. Then came the heavy guns of rack of Ontario lamb, beef tenderloin, black cod, and spiced shrimp. Desserts were decadent green tea cheesecake and several different crème brulees. Everything went well with the wines, although the Pinot Noirs shone with the meats. It was difficult to compare and contrast the wines and the foods since there were so many samples of food (we only had a mouthful or two of each) and wine to co-ordinate. The Downside: the Sauvignon Blancs were served just under room temperature; they needed to be chilled more in order to being out the acid. Also, the food came out more quickly than I would have liked, reducing my time in wine-food pairing. The Upside: a really interesting situation in trying to assess wine- food pairing, with so many possibilities. The Contact Person: elisabeth.muir@corby.ca The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 12. The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 1 PM to 9 PM The Event: annual tasting of Profile Wine Group wines. The Venue: Liberty Grand, Exhibition Place The Target Audience: wine press, restaurants, LCBO, private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available via LCBO, consignment, or private order. The Quote: “The event has gotten larger and more sophisticated every year.” The Wines: I did not taste all the wines as there were 19 suppliers from Italy, 18 from the US, 5 from Australia, 2 from Chile, 2 from Argentina, 4 from France, 3 from Spain, 1 each from Ontario, Quebec, New Zealand, and South Africa. Something for everybody in all price ranges and colours and styles. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Merryvale Chardonnay Carneros 2006 ($39) -Cormons Pinot Grigio Sparkling NV Friuli ($36.95) -Marguet Pere et Fils Champagne Grand Cru 2000 ($56, Vintages) -Martin Ray Russian River Chardonnay 2006 ($29.95) -Truchard Chardonnay 2006 ($43.95, Vintages) -Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche Riserva 1999 ($98.95) -Maverick Twins Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($32.95) -Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Brioso 2005 ($39) -L’Ecole No. 41 Pepper Bridge Apogee 2005 ($62.95) -Conn Creek Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($31.95) -Domaine Antolino Brongo Cryomalus Ice Cider 2007 ($38.95, 375 mL) -Chateau Ste Michelle Ethos Merlot 2005 ($45.95) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay Napa 2006 ($27.95) -Cormons Chardonnay 2006 Friuli ($17.95) -Marguet Pere et Fils Champagne ($42.95, Vintages) -J. Lohr Chardonnay Riverstone 2006 ($17.85, LCBO) -Oakville Ranch Napa Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) -Miner Family Napa Chardonnay 2006 ($40.95) -Wakefield Chardonnay 2007 South Australia ($18.95) -Penmara Semillon Reserve 2007 Hunter Valley ($18.95) -Amity Pinot Blanc 2006 Oregon ($21.95) -J. Bouchon Sauvignon Blanc Chile Reserva 2007 ($18.95) -L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon Washington 2007 ($21.95) -J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop 2005 ($38.95) -Merryvale Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005 ($32.95) -Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 California ($60.95) -Peter Franus Brandlin Zinfandel 2005 ($42.95) -Martin Ray Tri-County Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($29.95) -Signorello Edge Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 California ($29.95) -Oakville Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 and 2005 [2 different bottles]($61.95) -Truchard Cabernet Franc 2004 ($29.95) -Miner Oracle Napa Red 2005 ($99.95) -Le Dome St. Emilion Grand Cru 2004 ($250) -Colonial Estate Explorateur Old Vine Shiraz 2006 Australia ($33.95, Vintages, Feb 2009) -Colonial Estate Émigré 2006 ($94.95) -Penmara Shiraz Marawarpina 2005 ($37.95) -Fuedi di San Marzano Passito Aleatico 2006 ($32.95) -Amity Pinot Noir Sunnyside Oregon ($49.95) -Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer 2007 ($15.85, LCBO) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Merryvale Sauvignon Blanc Napa 2007 ($31) -Castellunio Lunaria Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($22.95) -Marquis de Perlada Brut Sparkling -Sparr Cremant Brut Rose NV ($22.95) -Painter Bridge Chardonnay California 2006 ($15.95) -Stonehedge Chardonnay 2007 California ($17.95) -Miner Family Viognier Simpson Vyd Napa 2007 ($28.95) -Pares Balta Cava Brut NV ($18.95) -Maverick Barossa Twins Eden Valley 2007 Chardonnay ($32.95) -Chateau Ste. Michelle Washington Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95, Vintages) -J. Bouchon Sauvignon Blanc Chile 2008 ($8.50) -Argento Chardonnay 2007 Argentina ($9.50, LCBO) -Stag’s Leap Cellars Napa Chardonnay Karia 2007 ($70.95) -Villa Mt. Eden Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2006 ($21.95) The Food: bread was from the delightful St. John Bakery, Monforte Dairy sheep cheese (Toscano, Paradiso, and Don’s Blue), B Espresso Bar, Niagara Food Specialties (pingue prosciutti), and a dozen olive oils from wineries repped at the show. The Downside: there was no catalogue, just a lined booklet. This meant that we had to write down ALL of the information. My shorthand may not have been exact. The Upside: lots of time to taste and schmooze, especially since the press was invited to attend an hour early. The Contact Person: portfoliotasting@profilewinegroup.com The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JULY 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1.Szigetvin Egri Cserszegi Fuszeres 2005 Hungary (+60822 Vintages, $13.95) is a real winner in the exotic summer wines sweepstakes. It is both floral and aromatic, with a spicy, but dry finish. The label notes “elder flowers”. 12% alcohol, and holding well after almost three years. 2.Domaine du Vieux Chene Cuvee Beatrice 2005 Cotes du Rhone Villages, 13.5% ABV, organic red wine from Grenache and syrah. Typical density of southern Rhone with a preponderance of Grenache tones followed by syrah flavours: spices, anise, some burnt caramel, ripe. Private order from Nokhrin Wines (nokhrinwines.com), about $25.30. 3. Domaine du Vieux Chene Cuvee des Seigneurs 2006 Cotes du Rhone Villages, 13.5% ABV, organic white wine from roussane, Marsanne, viognier grapes. Refreshing for summer, well-rounded and fruity, floral and exotic, with some botrytis tones. Great for summer. Private order from Nokhrin Wines (nokhrinwines.com), about $20.95. ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Friday, July 4, 2008 1 PM to 5 PM The Event: Informal drop in event to taste Kawarau Estate Vineyard organic wines from New Zealand. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve’s tasting room. The Target Audience: media, private customers. The Availability/Catalogue: Depending on the wine, all wines are available through the LCBO or consignment or private order via The Living Vine The Quote: “We’re doing 50 tons now, and probably 90 tons by 2011 – all organic.” The Wines: Winery owner Charles Finny was on hand to discuss his wines, which are all certified ”organic”. Kawarau Estate is in Central Otago; The Living Vine deals exclusively with wineries that produce organic or biodynamic or sustainable wines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Kawarau Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 - $38.95. The previous SEVEN consecutive vintages have produced Gold medals. This one, just released, will also get Gold. Wild yeast used. Aged 10 months in French oak, complex but too young for drinking now. Tried against creamy cheeses. The LCBO has some 2006 slated for February 2009 release at $38.9, but also watch for the 2007. -Kawarau Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007 – 13.5%, $29.95, 600 cases available. BF and BA in French oak for 10 months, wild yeasts, treated in the same way as the Reserve Pinot Noir, a consistent Gold winner. Plush mouthfeel but a long finish, can stand up to foods, and will last a long time if correctly cellared. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Kawarau Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007 – the 2008 will be $20 by consignment. Very good herbs, Euro style, long length, tried against pepperoni. -Kawarau Estate Pinot Noir 2007 – the 2006 tasted was $29.95, made from younger vines and aged 10 months in older French barrels. Very different from the Reserve but wild yeast is still used. More exuberant and youthful. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Kawarau Estate Pinot Gris 2007 - $21.95, five cases left, 2008 on the way, tried against smoked kielbasa, but I found the meat overwhelmed the wine which was clean and minerally. The Food: local cheeses from a variety of milks, some sausages too. The Contact Person: Mark Cuff The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 2. The Time and Date: Friday, July 11, 2008 11AM to 8 PM The Event: a day in Nova Scotia with Chef Michael Howell from The Tempest, including visits to Gaspereau Valley’s L’Acadie Vineyards and Benjamin Bridge, and for food, to Port Bistro in Port Williams and The Tempest in Wolfville, Nova Scotia. The Venue: two wineries and two restos. The Target Audience: me The Availability/Catalogue: only one wine from Benjamin Bridge, the Nova 7 was released the day I arrived in Nova Scotia. L’Acadie has plenty of wine, but currently you’ll have to go to Nova Scotia to get it. The Quote: The Wines: Bruce Ewert is the owner of L’Acadie Vineyards; he’s been here since 2004. Before that, he was a sparkling winemaker in BC, notably with Pyramid and Steve Cipes. He makes five different styles using the l’acadie hybrid. One of the styles is sparkling. He uses the traditional method of riddling, and has crafted L’Acadie Brut 2005 which has aged in the bottle for three years ($37.28). Fine bubbles, yeasty complexity. His plans call for more sparklers, such as an affordable Charmat Method version. He also makes an organic cider 2007 under cork, $18.07, which has a strong component of apple peel (Golden Russet, Northern Spy, Cox Orange Pippin, and Rhode Island Greening). Currently he makes 2,000 cases, but has capacity for 5,000. Ten per cent of his space is devoted to organic cider. His vineyard holdings were certified organic in 2007, and his newer wines are now organic. Some grapes are brought in, but eventually he hopes to be 100% organic. Peter Gamble, who seems to start more winemaking operations than Vincor has wineries, made the first batches at Benjamin Bridge, the new high- flying winery in the Gaspereau owned by Gerry McConnell and Dara Gordon. It sits on a 60-acre property once called Benjamin Bridge. The profile of the area is definitely Champagne-like, so they went at it that way, using organic grapes. And the services of Champagne expert Raphael Brisbois. Indeed, the 2003 Brut I tasted was spectacular, made from Chardonnay, L’acadie, Vidal, Pinot noir, and Seyval Blanc. The 2002, equally good with more time in the bottle, came from 70% chardonnay. Definitely in the RD style. They won’t be released until 2011 and 2012, to coincide with the opening of their new winery. 10,000 cases seem to be the capacity, and $15 million is going into the operation. Both sparklers will probably retail at $60 plus. The current full-time winemaker is Montreal-born Jean-Benoit Deslauriers. The only wine available right now (exclusively through the NS liquor stores) is Nova 7, a vintaged version of Asti spumante, selling for about $22.75. Both wineries have aggressively priced their wines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Benjamin Bridge Brut MC 2002 -Benjamin Bridge Brut MC 2003 -Benjamin Bridge Sauvignon Blanc 2006 – Loire style, extractive mouthfeel, about $35. -L’Acadie Star 2007 – very good component, high viscosity, big fat wine, longer finish, $19.20. -L’Acadie Brut Traditional Style Sparkling Wine 2005 - $37.28 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch 2004 – Ann Sperling’s recipe, good oak. -Benjamin Bridge Marechal Foch Reserve 2005 – more fruit and less oak. -L’Acadie Organic 2007 - $21.46, very minerally. -L’Acadie Alchemy 2006 – Amarone-styled wine, full bodies, 16 months in oak. $42.93. -L’Acadie Eclipse 2006 – Ripasso-style red, using the grapes from Alchemy. $27.11. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2007 – will next year be Nova 8? Just peachy. -L’Acadie 2007 - $16.94, 11.4% ABV, peach side. The Food: we had lunch at Port Bistro, which is billed as a gastropub. Howell is the menu consultant. He aims for good value food for people in the area who know his values but do not an expensive night out. It was one of the few places around that offered fried local clams with bellies (most are just imported necks), only $12.95 a generous serving. There was a crab dip with artichokes, crab and cream cheese. The microbrewery that operates in the resto is Sea Level Brewing. They offer a tasting sampler, as all such microbreweries should (but often don’t), of 2.5 ounce servings. There was a Moondance organic lager (naturally cloudy), a Rojo Mojo Red Ale, an IPA style, a Porter style, and a light brew for summer. The décor is more in the line of a resto and not a pub. Good food, good wine. At dinner, we went to The Tempest for the tasting menu. My wife had a lobster risotto and bay scallops with gonads, and a crab-stuffed haddock crusted with a potato basket and fried. Local wines were served by the glass. My tasting menu, which seemed to go on forever, comprised small servings of pickled cipolini with goat cheese and red pepper, smoked salmon and oka cheese, cod cheeks on greens, BBQ shrimp and mango sauce with ketaifa, passion fruit sorbet, morels in a cream sauce, halibut on a bed of new potatoes, grassfed beef, and house smoked applewood pork and polenta. I settled for a small strawberry and rhubarb sorbet for dessert. The Downside: I had no room for more dessert and I was also desperate for a trou Normand back in my room. The Upside: great wines and great foods all day. The Contact Person: www.tempest.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90 for the wines; the chef is my son-in-law. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday July 17, 2008 9AM to 4PM The Event: The 2008 Riesling Experience, an international celebration of style, structure and purity. The Venue: Brock University The Target Audience: Ontario winemakers, the wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: we had rare wines in a seminar plus a tasting after lunch of VQA wines (older releases, new releases) The Quote: “ The Wines: Angelo Pavan from Cave Spring Cellars and Chair of the Riesling Experience moderated the panel. The keynote speaker was Olivier Humbrecht from Domaine Zind Humbrecht in Alsace. He reported on his and the Alsatian approach to Riesling, with comments on his 2005 vintage Riesling wines (we tasted four of them). He noted the impact of global warming, which can be a serious issue (pick earlier? accelerate ripening?) along with soil compaction. There was a panel with Ulrich Fischer from Germany who pointed out that 61% of Riesling worldwide comes from Germany and 10% comes from Alsace. He clearly showed that sensory charts of terroirs illuminate the similarities in the Riesling aromatics of apple, rhubarb, lemon, peach, tropical fruit, honey, green bean, and bitter. David Peterson from Swedish Hill in New York told us what New York was doing. Most Riesling has only been planted since 1980, and mostly on lakeside slopes. Clone 239 produces peach and tropical aromatics, while clones 90 and 198 have minerals and citric tones. Jim Willwerth from Brock covered both consistency and diversity, concentrating on Niagara sub-appellation characteristics. The Lakeshore (cooler, more drainage, low water) produces astringency of citric and minerals, while the Bench (low yields, high water) have more floral and fruit and honey character. The Plains, with poor drainage, have traces of peaches and petrol. Chacun a son gout…The trade show comprised the wines NOT chosen for the lunch food-wine pairings. Full tasting notes were given out for all wines. Because of the time element, I passed on the opportunity to try the Icewines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim 2005 – long depth, some botrytis -Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Clos Hauserer 2005 – single vineyard, 32 year old vines. -Domaine Zind Humbrecht Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain 2005 – bone dry, 43 year old vines. -Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling 1999 – higher acid levels and body allow for longer cellaring and improvement. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Gueberschwihr 2005 – basic village level, 31 year old vines. -Lucashof Pfalz Riesling QbA 2006 -Angels Gate Riesling Sussreserve 2007 -Chateau des Charmes Estate Bottled Riesling 2006 -Featherstone Estate Old Vines Riesling 2007 -Featherstone Estate Black Sheep Riesling 2007 -Foreign Affairs Appasimento Riesling 2007 -Trius Riesling 2007 -Jackson-Triggs Proprietor’s Grand Reserve Riesling 2006 Niagara *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -St. Urbans-HOF Mosel Riesling QbA 2007 -Swedish Hill Dry Riesling 2006 -Swedish Hill Dry Riesling 2007 -Angels Gate Riesling 2006 -Cave Spring Riesling CSV 2004 -Creekside Close Plant Reserve Riesling 2007 -Fielding Riesling 2007 -Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2004 -Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Riesling 2006 -Thirty Bench Riesling 2007 -Thirteenth Street June’s Vineyard Riesling 2006 -Vineland Estates Elevation Riesling 2007 The Food: lunch was created by Chef Jason Parsons of Peller Estates Winery restaurant. The centerpiece on each table was a bunch of Riesling grapes. With the foie gras terrine we had a Henry of Pelham Proprietor’s Reserve Riesling 1991, which had aged remarkably well. It was a treat. A roasted scallop, barely cooked, came with a OWA Gold Medal Cattail Creek Riesling Reserve 2006 (sold out). With the icewine suckling pig there was a semi-dry Cave Spring Cellars CSV Riesling 2003 which cut through the richness. One of the highlights was the “Peller Estates Blue Ice” (remember their adverts from the 1950s when you could not advertise alcohol? Nudge nudge, wink wink). It was a wheel of Blue Benedictine cheese from PQ drenched with two bottles of Peller Riesling Icewine 2006. Dessert was a series of coco nib icewine marshmallows, which even my sugar-addicted granddaughter thought was too sweet. The Downside: it was a long day, and the lunch (which started on time) dragged on between courses. This cut into our VQA Riesling trade show tasting time by an hour. The Upside: it was good to see Olivier, whom I had talked with before several times. The Contact Person: www.rieslingexperience.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JUNE 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1. Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2006 (+26682, $44.95 Vintages): displays all the right choices for upfront lifted tropical fruit flavours and a dynamic vanilla creaminess in the finish. Long enough length for food. 2. Fleury & Fils Champagne Brut Carte Rouge Organic NV, $56.95, +74443 Vintages. Certified organic and since 1989 the first producer to be certified Biodynamic by Demeter. 100% pinot noir with that intense hard tannins from the red grape. Nutty, maybe hazelnuts, some rancio, citrusy nose and wild strawbs. Very long, long finish. Good with food, especially the first courses. This is the first sparkling wine my wife has had in a long time that did not give her a headache (most organic wines don’t give headaches). Oh, yes, we had it on our 30th wedding anniversary. 3. Fielding Estate Winery Riesling 2007 Niagara Peninsula, 11.5% ABV, $16 winery and November Vintages: very aromatic, from grapes fermented separately in small lots. Long finish, delicious as appetizer wine. 4. Fielding Estate Winery Gewurztraminer 2007 Niagara Peninsula, 12.5% ABV, $16 winery and August Vintages. Fermented cool in stainless, and showing intense Alsatian-style spicy fruit. Good value here. 5. Colio Estates Vineyards CEV Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Lake Erie North Shore, a prizewinner at VinExpo Asia Pacific and silver medalist in other competitions. At Vintages soon. Shows both tropical fruit and grass in that Californian style. 6. Colio Estates Vineyards CEV Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Lake Erie North Shore, a prizewinner at Decanter Wine Awards and Gold at the Great Lakes International Wine Competition. Good cassis, some cedar, and smokey mocha tones. 7. Flat Rock Cellars Riesling Nadia’s Vineyard 2007 Twenty Mile Bench, $19.95 winery: Twist top. Made from a single vineyard, but in two batches (fermented separately). Twist top, a food wine, good acid balance, long lingering finish. 8. Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2007 Twenty Mile Bench, $16.95 winery and Vintages. Twist top. Terrific all-purpose Riesling of character, suitable for sipping or dining. 9. Flat Rock Cellars Twisted 2007 Niagara Peninsula, $16.95 winery and Vintages. Twist top, of course. Almost 3,000 cases made. One of the winery’s most popular wines, made in large quantities. This year’s composition is Riesling (60%), Gewurztraminer (20%), and Chardonnay (20%), the latter probably from young vines I’m guessing. “The wines were blended (after numerous blending trials to find the desired balance, structure, and fruitfulness), stabilized, racked and filtered before bottling in April 2008”. Probably Ontario’s top blended aromatic white patio sipper, and with good reason… 10. Flat Rock Cellars Seriously Twisted 2006 Twenty Mile Bench, $22.95 winery and Vintages. Twist top. Currently, this is a secret blend of barrel fermented varietals. Each was also aged separately in French oak barrels. Aromatics shine through some custard-y creamy tones from the oak. With BF, I am guessing that there is no Riesling or Gewurztraminer. That leaves Viognier, Chardonnay and its Musque clone, and Sauvignon Blanc – all of which have had successful BF before. Quick check to crack the secret: look at Twenty Mile Bench on the appellation map, and see what white grapes are grown. 11. Flat Rock Cellars Red Twisted 2006 Niagara Peninsula, $19.95 winery. Twist top. Currently, this is a secret blend. The components were vinified and aged separately in 10% new French oak barrels, and the rest older. Then, they were blended and matured in bottle for 9 months. Light and fruity, at 12% ABV, and with red and black berry tones. Another engaging red wine for the patio or pool, or with first courses. I’m guessing Pinot Noir, perhaps also Zweigelt or young vine Syrah. Even money at Vegas? ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 3, 2008 2PM to 6:30 PM The Event: Wines of Portugal Annual Trade Tasting The Venue: Fairmont Royal York The Target Audience: wine trade. The Availability/Catalogue: a fat booklet, business paper size, with spiral binding. Some 55 wineries attended, including about a half dozen looking for an importer. There were some 400 wines in the show. The catalogue listed all the names and numbers except for prices. In some cases, Euros were sparingly quoted, in other cases, the figures were in Canadian dollars. Vintage years were mostly exact. Grape varieties were listed, and regions and DOCs given. Good job. The Quote: “These wineglasses [in the seminar] are shockingly filthy.” The Wines: There was a seminar tasting of some six wines, and some winemakers attended. David Lawrason gave the talk on the major Portuguese grape varieties (Arinto, Touriga Nacional, Aragones, etc.) and their distinguishing characteristics. I did not taste all of the wines in the show – I just concentrated on table reds. I also passed up most of the entry level generic table wines except for a few whites. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Esporao Touriga Nacional 2004 Alentejo $26 -Palacio da Balalhoa 2004 Terras do Sado [Bordeaux blend] -Bacalhoa So Touriga Nacional 2005 Terras do Sado -Quinta Da Balcalhoa 2006 Terras do Sado -CARM Grande Reserva 2005 Douro -Esporao Private Selection Red 2004 Alentejo -Dona Maria Reserva 2004 Alentejo -Quinta Do Carmo Dom Martinho 2005 Alentejo Red - $14.61 Licensee, FWP -Quinta Do Carmo Reserva 2005 Alentejo Red -Casa de Cello Quinta Da Vegia Reserva 2005 Dao -Herdade Da Malhadinha Marias Da Malhadinha 2004 Alentejo - $135 Licensee, FWP -Quinta Dos Roques Garrafeira 2003 DAO $50, RKW Importa -Casa Agricola J Pombo Herdade Do Meio Garrafeira 2003 Alentejo $50, 30/50 Imports ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Quinta Dos Roques Touriga Nacional 2005 DAO $27 -Adega Cartuxa Pere Manca 2006 Alenejo Branco -Quinta Do Coa Reserva 2006 Douro -Quinta De Pancas Reserva 2005 Estremadura -Esperao Red Reserve 2005 Alentejo -J. Portugal Ramos Marques De Borba Reserva 2004 Alentejo -Montez Champalimaud Cotto Grande Escolha 2001 Red -Alves de Sousa Quinta Da Gaivosa 2003 Douro -Quinta Do Portal Reserva 2003 Douro -Quinta Do Portal Grande Reserva 2003 Douro -Quinta Nova N.S. Carmo Reserva 2005 Douro -Quinta Nova N.S. Carmo Grande Reserva 2005 Douro -Messias Grande Escolha 2005 Douro -Alianca Quinta Da Garrida Reserva TN 2004 Dao -Casa Agric Alexandre Reivas Herdade Sao Miguel Reserva 2005 Alentejo -Herdade Do Perdigao Reserva 2004 Alentejo -Casa de Cello Quinta Da Vegia 2006 Dao -Casal Branco Falcoaria Reserva 2005 Ribatejo -Casa Santos Lima Tinta Barroca 2005 Estremadura -Encostas De Estremoz DJ Reserva 2003 Alentejo -Herdade Da Malhadinha Nova Tinto 2006 Alentejo -Casa Agricola J Pombo Herdade Do Meio 2004 Alentejo -Casa Agricola J Pombo Herdade Do Meio Homenagem 2004 Alentejo *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Quinta De Pancas 2005 Estremadura -Quinta De Pancas Chardonnay & Arinto 2006 Estremadura -J. Portugal Ramos Vila Santa Syrah 2007 Alentejo -Dona Maria Amantis 2006 Alentejo White [Viognier] -Dona Maria Amantis 2004 Alentejo Red [PV, CS, Syrah] -Quinta Da Lagoalva Talhao 1 2007 Ribatejano White -Messias Quinta Do Valdoeiro Reserva 2005 Bairrada -Quinta De Ventozelo Tinta Roriz 2004 Douro -Aveleda Follies Chardonnay/Maria Gomes 2006 Bairrada -Aveleda Follies Cabernet Sauvignon/Touriga Nacional 2004 Bairrada -Casa Agricola Alexandre Reivas Herdade Sao Miguel 2006 Alentejo -Vinho Do Almo Escholha 2005 Alentejo -Terras De Monforte Eschola 2005 Alentejo -Casal Branco Capucho Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Ribatejo -Casa Santos Lima Touriga Nacional 2005 Estremadura -Encostas De Estremoz DJ Alicante Bouschet 2004 Alentejo -Quinta Da Alorna Reserva 2005 Ribatejo -Periquita Reserva 2004 Terras Do Sado -Fonseca Domini 2004 Douro -Quinta Dos Roques Reserva 2003 Dao The Food: for the fourth consecutive year, we had an assortment of cold cuts, cheeses, fresh fruit, and ham sandwiches. The Downside: the seminar was slow in starting, overcrowded, late in finishing (I left at 3:15), the winemakers spoke too long, and the glasses were exceptionally dirty. The Upside: this event was kept open to 6:30Pm, a sufficient time for many of us to try a lot of the wines. Of course, there was no consumer component in the evening, so it was easier to keep the show going. The Contact Person: william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2 PM to 6 PM The Event: Discover Australia, part of a cross-Canada tour by wineries and non-wine people seeking agents in Canadian provinces. The Venue: Royal York Fairmont Hotel, Imperial Room The Target Audience: wine agents and others, food brokers, trade people. The Availability/Catalogue: it turns out that quite a few wines are already repped in Ontario, but not in other provinces. 15 wineries showed in Ontario, but some had agents: Blackjack (agent: Dionysus), Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander (Portfolio), Olsen (Lamprecht), Donnelly River (Cipelli), plus another from Diamond Estates. That left 10 wineries looking. The Quote: “Uh, kangaroo meat? Oh no thanks.” The Wines: prices are per case of 12, FOB, Australian dollars. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Downing Estate Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 A$198 -Gentle Annie Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 A$126 -Giant Steps Yarra Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 A$70 six-pack -Innocent Bystander Yarra Shiraz Viognier 2006 A$46 six-pack -Olsen Wines Victoria Reserve Yarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 A$250 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beelgara Estate Wines NSW Winemakers Black Shiraz A$75 -Linfield Road Wines Barossa The Stubborn Patriach Shiraz 2004 A$156 -Linfield Road Wines Barossa The Slab Hut Merlot/Shiraz/Cabernet 2005 A$144 -Psyche Wines Reserve Victoria Viognier 2007 A$110 -Psyche Wines Smuggler Victoria Petit Verdot 2005 A$82.50 -Psyche Wines Smuggler Victoria Chardonnay 2006 A$82.50 -Downing Estate Victoria Shiraz 2004 A$198 -Galli Estate Victoria Sunbury Pinot Grigio 2008 A$92 -Galli Estate Victoria Sunbury Chardonnay 2007 A$97.75 -Galli Estate Victoria Heathcote Shiraz Viognier 2007 A$92 -Galli Estate Victoria Heathcote Block Two Shiraz A$125. -Gentle Annie Victoria Verdelho 2005 (14.5%) A$90 -Giant Steps Yarra Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 A$70 six-pack -Goona Warra Vineyard Victoria Chardonnay 2005 A$155 -Olsen Wines Victoria Yarra Preservative Free Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 A$140 -Olsen Wines Victoria Yarra Verdelho 2006 A$120 -Olsen Wines Victoria Yarra Muscat Blanc Autumn Harvest 2006 A$120 -Sir Paz Estate Yarra Merlot 2005 A$134.40 -Train Trak Yarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 A$132 -Clown Fish Wines Margaret River Shiraz 2006 A$165 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beelgara Estate Wines NSW Reserve Regional Collection Chardonnay A$95 -Condo Wines River Murray Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 A$60 -Blackjack Vineyards Victoria Shiraz 2005 A$185 -Blackjack Vineyards Victoria Block 6 Shiraz A$185 -Goona Warra Vineyard Victoria Merlot Cabernet Franc 2004 A$155 -Donnelly River Wines West Australia Mist 2006 (white blend) A$100 The Food: there were samples of Kanagroo Paw extra virgin olive oil, Simply Tomatoes green tomatoes spread, and Kangaroo meat (which some people turned down). There was a nice cheese platter and crackers. The Downside: it was lightly attended, and there was a major TTC subway outage around 6 PM which forced some of us to walk far distances. The Upside: a chance to try some newer wines. I suspect the hit was Gentle Annie Wines: the booth had agents crawling all over it… The Contact Person: marie.ross@austrade.gov.au The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday, June 12, 2008 6 PM to 8PM The Event: Taste of Italy at Snaidero Showrooms. The Venue: Snaidero specializes in kitchens and décor, so this was appropriate. The Target Audience: the glitterati plus a few opinion-makers, and me in my pasta shirt. The Availability/Catalogue: all four wines were available in Ontario. The Quote: “This is the fourth in a series of possibly ten in all, being themed events from the Italian Trade Commission, linking Italian wines with Italian producers from various industries (food, automobile, fashion, décor, etc.).” The Wines: the indefatigable Steve Thurlow, from Wine Access, spoke to the wines midway through the event. They had been made available for sampling since before 6, along with the magnificent display of cold cuts from Chef Gabriele Paganelli of Romagna Mia. -Val d’Oca Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2007, $16.80, +340570 – off-dry bubbly went well with everything. -Masi Masianico 2007, $14.95, +620773 – part pinot Grigio and part verduzzo (late harvest and matted). Rich body. -Cantina Parroco San Michele Langhe Nebbiolo 2006, $18.50, +129196 from brunello@colosseum.com. Soft and youthful, savoury too. -Serego Aligheri Poderi del Bello Ovile 2005, $18.95, +73106 – was in the midst of a vintage change at the LCBO, so we also got to taste a 2004 (good aging) but the 2005 was better with its body and character. The Food: various upscale Italian cheeses, breads and sausages. The Downside: I had to leave for a dinner, so I did not get to talk to anybody. The Upside: great food and nine matching combinations, since the emphasis was on aperitivo wines and antipasti. The Contact Person: lauren@zenergycom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, June 12, 2008 7Pm to 10PM The Event: Nederburg wine tasting dinner. The Venue: Veritas Restaurant, King Street The Target Audience: wine press (Michael Pinkus and myself) The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available from time to time in Vintages (see below). Linley Schultz, the chief winemaker for Distell (the mother company) and Deveron Wilcock, the Distell brands manager in Canada were eating with us, and answering questions. Dana Lee Harris was flown in from out west to co-ordinate and moderate all of us. The Quote: “Nederburg regularly collects Veritas awards in South Africa – and here we are eating at Veritas. Coincidence?” The Wines: Distell produces over 20 million cases annually, most selling for under $50. They are the largest in South Africa, and they also do brandy and apple cider (they are the second biggest producer of apple cider in the world). Nederburg has 800K cases a year, and regularly picks up awards because of its high value/low pricing policies. The Manor House label is reserved for the “best of the best”. Like many large wineries, the company has a tiered system. To night we tried some of tier two (Winemaker’s Reserve) and some of tier three (Manor House) – six in all. Most of the Manor House production was for export. We did them in pairs: -Winemaker’s Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2007 - $11.75, 750,000 litres made, their basic good SB with zest. -Manor House Sauvignon Blanc 2007 - $16.95, 27K litres made, more length in the finish, from three “single blocks”, all of them cool climate type for that sprightly greenness. -Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - $11.75, herbal complexity but also a New World softness. -Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - $16.95, hand-picked and hand- sorted. 10 year old vines from Paarl vineyards. Some herbal complexities as well as a Bordeaux feel. Supple tannins for early development. Vintages on August 23. -Winemaker’s Reserve Shiraz 2006 - $11.75, 400K litres made. Soft, mocha tones. -Manor House Shiraz 2006 - $16.95, 50K litres made, using chips and staves and brandy barrels for 18 months. Medal winner. And the 2005 won a Rosemount Trophy plus other Golds in other competitions. Tons of black fruit on the nose, spicy finish. Low yielding vineyard blocks. Vintages on August 23. The Food: we tasted the wines, and then we ate dinner, cross-tasting the wines and foods. The food was off the menu; we shared oysters. We decided to have samples of everything (God knows what it cost the agent): mini versions of mushroom and vegetable cannelloni, vegetarian cassoulet, Cornish hen, Ontario pickerel, pork loin, trout, striploin, duck breast – everything as local and seasonal as possible. In true style, all the wines went well with everything because they were designed that way. The Downside: the gathering was small. The Upside: all questions were answered. The Contact Person: danalee.harris@shaw.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 5. The Time and Date: Monday, June 16, 2008 Noon to 2 PM The Event: lunch with the Wine Council of Ontario, to celebrate Ontario Wine Week and the release of the WCO’s Year in Review. The Venue: Chez Victor, Hotel The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: we had three wines off the wine list at Chez Victor: Peller Estates Ice Cuvee sparkling wine, perfect off-dry aperitif; Peninsula Ridge Wismer Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Twenty Bench, developing, lemonish finish; and Henry of Pelham Cabernet Merlot 2005 Niagara Peninsula, good oak, nice smooth development, ready. With dessert, there was an Inniskillin Vidal Icewine 2006. It was announced that over 120 restaurants in Ontario have a VQA Restaurant Award of Excellence. The Quote: From the report – Ontario Wine sales totaled $506 million in 2007/8. VQA sales were $160 million of this. The rest were “Cellared in Canada” wines, which are mostly capped at 70% imported wines. So how much wine “grown” in Ontario was there? Let’s see, subtract the VQA figure and factor in 30% and less of that number…Available for grilling were Sheri Haigh, Director of Public Relations and Stakeholder Relations, Hillary Dawson, President of the WCO, Normal Beal from Peninsula Ridge Estates (Chair of the WCO Board of Directors), and J. Duncan Gibson, Director of Finance and Research. The Food: as usual, Mark Moffatt and David Chrystian of Chez Victor took care of us. We started with a welcomed roasted red pepper bisque, hot, topped with spicy condiments. This was followed by tasty organic lettuces with fennel and sliced pear. The main course was a seared tuna loin with rosemary and olives and a capered relish. Or, for some, chicken breast with black rice and a spicy cuke and rad salad. Dessert was a sinful concoction with creams and berries and caramel. The Downside: next year, the WCO needs to break out the Ontario content of the Cellared in Canada program so that we can get a better grip on how much wine is actually “grown” and sold in Ontario. The Upside: there was a loud rumour that Mike Weir’s wine was leaving Ontario for BC, but no writer was sure if this was a departure or just an additional winery. The Contact Person: sherri.haih@winesofontario.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 6. The Time and Date: Monday, June 16, 2008 2:30 – 4:30 PM The Event: Tasting with Clark Smith of California’s Grapecraft Cellars, emphasizing “Ageing Gracefully” an exploration of techniques for building proper structure for cellaring. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square Demonstration Kitchen The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: wine are available through the Ontario agent, H.H. D. Imports, right now on a private order basis. The Quote: Clark Smith is perhaps the most talked about figure in winemaking today. His perspectives are sought after by wine schools at UC Davis, Cal State Fresno and Napa Valley College. He consults regularly with wineries in Niagara Peninsula. Ten competitions use him as a wine judge. His po-mo views on wines are at www.grapecraft.com, which he explains through a calendar mandala and glossary. He is an advocate of dealcoholizing wines, micro-oxygenation and removing tannins. He says: I’m not a technology proponent. I’m in favour of winemaking as a culinary art, not a science. Winegrowing is a type of specialized cooking, slow food type. Wine is liquid music. The brain processes them the same way.” The Wines: -2003 Napa "Faux Chablis' Chardonnay Student Vineyard Napa Valley College. $27. Dealcoholized to 12.9% ABV by reverse osmosis, citric acidity and yet custardy mouth-feel. -2005 Surly Chenin Blanc Clarksburg. $15. Austere minerals, typical quince nose; crisp and orange peels. -N/V Skinflint California Dry Rosé. $14. Dry, pronounced strawberry nose, unctuous, cherry flavour, relatively hard. -2005 Cheapskate California "Miser" Meritage. $15. 13.5% ABV. God balance, good cabby flavours for the price: cedar, blackcurrant, black olives, herbs, violets. -2005 Winesmith California Cabernet Sauvignon. $23. Heavy and firm plumminess with a clean and long finish: flowers, graphite, cinnamon, pepper, red berry and dark chocolate. -2005 Winesmith California Cabernet Franc. $23. Earthy, generous but grainy: coffee bean, green pepper, cherry. Softish finish. -2004 Winesmith Crucible Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. $99. Quite a step up in quality, and more so in price. Full, ripe and generous at 14% ABV: earthy, blueberry, cedar, red berry, chocolate and vanilla. -2005 Winesmith Second Fiddle Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Fiddlestix Vyd. $55. 13.8% ABV. Dijon clone 115 and Clone 667: austere, cherry, damp earth and mocha . Burgundian and needs time. The Food: cheese platter with breads. The Downside: it is hard to agree and disagree with him since he has done all the research and we have not. The Upside: making a connection between wine and music. The Contact Person: info@hhdimports.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 Noon – 5 PM The Event: Spain: Old Vines – New Wines The Venue: Hart House, Great Hall The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: 81 wineries participated. Most wines were available on the GL, Vintages or by Consignment. The catalogue was impeccable, with full ordering information, regions, CSPC numbers, and prices. The Quote: “Many wine writers never got a VIP invitation to attend the noon to 2 PM showing; this invite would have been particularly useful since there was an Ontario wine show from 2PM to 4PM”. The Wines: My wife and I were having lunch at the Gallery Grill, just above the Great Hall. It was my 30th wedding anniversary, and I had plans to go to neither the Spanish nor the Ontario tasting (sorry, guys, I have a life too). I dropped in for about 15 minutes only because the show was just steps away. I ended up tasting some quality wines, and stayed for 40 minutes. My wife – the Beautiful American – had to come in and drag me away…Consequently, I only tasted a few wines. There were a whole slew of wines at Iberowine Canada and at Kylix, but I had absolutely no time left. Here are the best of the wines I did taste: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Hermanos Pecina Tinto Gran Reserva 1998 Rioja +915909 $49.95 Le Sommelier -Miguel Torres Vina Esmeralda 2007 $12.95 Pacific Wine and Spirits -Adrada Ecologica Kirios de Adrada 2006 Ribero del Duero $19.95 Living Vine -Antonino Izquierdo 2005 Ribera del Duero $78.90 Classics -Antonino Izquierdo 2006 Ribera del Duero $78.90 Classics -Terroir al Limit L’Arbossar 2005 Priorat $98.95 Living Vine -Bod. Tobias Rioja Reserva 2003 +107168 $35 TWC Imports ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Julian Chivite Coleccion 125 Reserve 2001 Navarra +702431, $45.95 Churchill Cellars -Hermanos Pecina Tinto Crianza 2000 Rioja +132158 $24.75 Le Sommelier -Mas Estela Quindals 2005 Ampurdan-Costa Brava $27.95 MCO -Mas Estela Selva del Mar 2004 Ampurdan-Costa Brava $40 MCO -Miguel Torres Celeste 2004 Ribera del Duero +672691 $19.95 Pacific Wine and Spirits -Miguel Torres Salmos 2005 Priorat $32 Vintages Aug 30 -Adrada Ecologica Kirios de Adrada 2005 Ribero del Duero $34.95 Living Vine -Terroir al Limit Dits del Terra 2005 Priorat $108.95 Living Vine -Torroja de Terroir al Limit 2005 Priorat $66.20 Classics Nov. -Bod. Joan d’Angeura Bugader 2004 Montsant +941657 $56 TWC Imports -Bod. Tobias Rioja Crianza 2004 +980168 $24 TWC Imports -Gonzalez Byass Beronia Crianza 2005 Rioja $15.80 Woodman Wines & Spirits -Gonzalez Byass Beronia Mazuelo 2004 Rioja $20 Woodman Wines & Spirits *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Hermanos Pecina Tinto Reserva 1999 Rioja +915891 $33.65 Le Sommelier -Navarrsotillo Magister Bibendi Crianza 2004 $17.95 Living Vine -Bod. Joan d’Angeura Finca L’Argata 2005 Montsant +100031 $30 TWC Imports -Bod. Joan d’Angeura La Planella 2006 Montsant +100056 $21.50 TWC Imports -Vizar Roble 2006 Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon +179175 $23 TWC Imports The Food: cheese, breads, fruit, marinated mushrooms, chicken cooked in sherry, salads. The Downside: at 1 PM, the VIP session was very lightly attended. The only other wine writer I saw was Sheila Swerling-Puritt. There were no pre-printed badges for either of us. The Upside: there was plenty of room, and I had everybody’s undivided attention. The Contact Person: prandolph@mcx.es The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 83. 8. The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 7PM to 11PM The Event: winemaker’s dinner (Marenco Aldo) repped in Ontario by Nokhrin Wines The Venue: Bloom Restaurant, Bloor West Village The Target Audience: customers who enjoy fine wines and a bargain price. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are in the $20 range, and are available through the agent. The Quote: Aldo Marenco from the Piedmont was present. He had a limited knowledge of English, but there were translation services. He spoke to the two dozen or so diners, and broke bread with me. This is an organic winery in the Langhe, concentrating on food-friendly Dolcetto and Barbera. Production is 80K bottles a year. We talked about infestations and sulphur. He does not want to be biodynamic because that is, to him, way too much work. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Marenco Aldo Sognatore Langhe Rosso 2005 - $23.50, 14% ABV, very soft and fruity, made for international tastes, in French small oak for 10 months. Some chocolate tones despite a tight opening on entry. Made from Dolcetto, Barbera, and Merlot. -Marenco Aldo Dulcis in Fundo Passito 2007 (made in 2008) - $22 for 375 mL, $13.5 ABV, from Dolcetto grapes sun-dried on reed mats for two months. Intensely fruity, mocha, and like all his wines, organic. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Marenco Aldo Dolcetto di Dogliani “Parlapa” 2005 - $23.25, 14% ABV, a big wine, slightly bitter flavours near the finish, ideal for pasta. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Marenco Aldo Dolcetto di Dogliani “Suri” 2006 - $20, 13.5% ABV, upfront fruitiness, appetizer friendly, organic of course. The Food: Franca, one of the owners, served us well. We began with a crostini of beef tartar, white truffle oil, and a quail egg. There was also a Grana Padana crusted polenta with sausage-mushroom. With it we had the Suri. The tagliatelle with duck ragu was my kind of al dente. The Parlapa accompanied it. The main was an off the bone tender ossobuco with gremolata, risotto Milanese, and fennel. The Sognatore nicely matched it. With a dessert of chocolate tart and ice cream, there was the stunning Dulcis in Fundo. The Downside: for me, I had to rush from a bus returning from Stratford. The Upside: a great chance to talk to the owner-winemaker. The Contact Person: anokhrine@gmail.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 9. The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 all day The Event: annual fam tour of Niagara wineries by Wine Council of Ontario for WWCC members. There were 11 of us. The Venue: five wineries: Southbrook, Cattail Creek, Coyote’s Run, Ravine Vineyard (not yet open), and Niagara College Teaching Winery. The Target Audience: WWCC wine writers. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available, or will be, from the winery. The Quote: “We need cool water – it was a scorcher of a day!” The Wines: At Southbrook (10K capacity) we learned that the winery not only has a LEED gold status in its construction, but also that there is biodynamic winemaking (since 2006). They have a periwinkle blue wall (205 metres) that is spectacular. Shades of Pink Floyd…After lunch we moved on to Cattail Creek (100% of their wines are estate grown), one of Niagara’s newest wineries. Some of their vines are the oldest Rieslings in Ontario. Coyote’s Run Estate Winery (8K capacity) was next, and here we tasted the difference between terroirs which they called Black Paw and Red Paw (black earth and red earth), especially with Cab Franc and Pinot Noir. A side trip to Michael Olsen’s new co- venture: Ravine Vineyard, a combo food store and winery. Everything was dusty, but we had a chance to see the ravine that was saved from developers. NCT Winery was unusual in that the instructors assigned to look after us had to disappear to attend their scions’ graduations (one from college, one from high school), both on the same day at the same time! We were left in the capable hands of a student who gave us the real lowdown on what happens at school...took me back to my days, forty years ago!! **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2006, $21.95 – good depth of oak, vanilla, toast -Southbrook Whimsy Chardonnay Canadian Oak 2003, $29.75 – lumber, lanolin -Niagara College Teaching Winery BF Chardonnay 2006, $18.95 – Gold Medal -Niagara College Teaching Winery Dean’s List Chardonnay 2006, $27.95 -Cattail Creek Family Estate Winery Off Dry Riesling 2007, $15 – from Alsatian Riesling clones. -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Blanc 2007, $18 – slight anise finish ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Southbrook Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $18.95 – zesty, higher acid finish -Southbrook Whimsy Lot 19 Syrah, $32.75 – dynamic oak -Southbrook Triomphe Pinot Gris 2006, $18.95 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Dean’s List Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $18.95 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Sauvignon Blanc Fume 2007, $13.95 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $18.95 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Meritage 2005, $37.95 -Cattail Creek Family Estate Winery Chardonnay Musque 2007, $17 – aromatic -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery BF Chardonnay Reserve 2006, $21 -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Cabernet Franc Black Paw 2006, $20 -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Noir Red Paw 2006, $24 -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Meritage 2005, $24 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Southbrook Triomphe Syrah 2006, $24.95 – youthful, rich, 10 year old vines -Southbrook Whimsy Lot 20 Syrah, $32.75 – olives, peppery -Southbrook Cabernet Merlot Shiraz 2006, $14.85 LCBO – CS39/CF30/M20/S11 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Riesling 2007, $11.95 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Cabernet Franc 2005, $16.95 -Cattail Creek Family Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2007, $18 -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Gris Red Paw 2007, $18 -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Cabernet Franc Red Paw 2006, $20 -Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Noir Black Paw 2006, $36 The Food: brown bag lunch at Southbrook from “The Good Earth Catering”, formal dinner at Niagara College. At the latter, we ordered off the menu. I’m still not quite sure why the soup of the day was “roasted parsnip” (out of season, hot). Nevertheless, I had gnocchi with parmesan shards, followed by bunderfleisch with parmesan “chards” (Swiss?), pancetta wrapped pork tenderloin, and a large cheese selection of primarily Quebec cheeses. Wines off the menu were just about all whites, for it was exceedingly hot that night. The Downside: the heat, especially on the bus. The Upside: a chance to catch up with many Niagara wines. The Contact Person: sherri.haigh@winesofontario.org. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 10. The Time and Date: Thursday, June 26, 2008 10AM to 6PM The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord). The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn The Target Audience: wine agents, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are available in Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta. Most of the wines were French, and there were sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. There was one producer from Spain and one from Italy. The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. These 40 or so wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. Here were my faves, regardless of price: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ruconia Crianza Rioja 2001 – a ton of new wood, juicy. -Ruconia Reserva Rioja 2003 -Philippe Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru La Combeaux Moines -Philippe Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Les Champeaux-en-champs ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dom. Claude Nouveau Santenay Blanc 2006, 13% ABV -Dom. Claude Nouveau Hautes Cote de Beaune 2006 -Dom. Claude Nouveau Santenay 1er Cru Grand Crus Rousseau 2006 -Ruconia Tubal Rioja 2005 -Ruconia Rey Don Garcia Crianza Rioja 2005 -Marechal Caillot Ladoix 2005 – 8.2 Euros -Chateau de Brangue 2003 Bordeaux Superior 2003, 2004, 2005 -Chateau Gros Moulin Cotes de Bourg 2005 – good oak The Food: none. The Downside: not enough space to sprawl out and write notes. No paper was furnished, so I used some 3 by 5 cards. The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here. There was a mini-series of four Gevrey-Chambertin 2005 from Philippe Leclerc, and a range of Pommard Vieilles Vignes from Billard Gonnet. The next show will be in October. The Contact Person: for prices, etc, check with Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MAY 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1. Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2006 NOTL, 13% ABV, silver medalist at OWA 2008. This is ca full-bodied aromatic wine with a slight muscat character. No oak, a bit spicy. Great for summer. 2. Chateau des Charmes Riesling 2006 NOTL, 12.5% ABV, gold medalist at OWA 2008, is phenomenal: it stood head and shoulders above all the other entrants (I was a judge for this category). Dry minerals and limes, just as in Alsace. 3. Chateau des Charmes Viognier 2006 St. David’s Bench, 13.5% ABV, comes from a Rhone varietal (think Condrieu). Highly aromatic, more smell than taste, finishes dry on palate. Best with food. 4. Jackson Triggs Esprit Chardonnay 2006 VQA Niagara ($12.85, currently only at the winery) is an international style of chardonnay meant for Olympic-watchers. It is being released with a portion of the proceeds ($1.25) going to support Canadian Olympic athletes, and the VQA version should be more widely available as time goes by. This is a Proprietor’s Reserve tier (as Vincor told me), so it is quite strong on the creamy- fruity-vanilla flush, finishing slightly off-dry. Some pear tones on the front palate, but its fruitiness makes this one a sipper. 12.5% ABV. 5. Jackson Triggs Esprit Cabernet 2005 VQA Niagara ($13.85, currently only at the winery) is another Olympic supporter wine, one in international style. The VQA blend is cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, giving up ripe red berries and some herbs. Very soft finish makes this one also a sipper. The bottle is clear, so it is not meant to be cellared. 12.5% ABV. ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 1, 2008 Noon to 2 PM The Event: media May 24th Pre-Release Vintages Tasting of New Zealand Wines. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are being released on May 24th at Vintages, about nine days after the New Zealand Wine Fair (see below). The Quote: “The line tasting is arranged by varietal in the tasting room followed by lunch in the Kitchen Event room.” We were to try wines against foods. The Wines: There were 28 wines, each accompanied by personal tech note sheets. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Sacred Hill Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) -Lowburn Ferry Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 ($38.25) -Nobilo Icon Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 ($25.95) -Goldridge Estate Hawkes Bay Syrah 2005 ($19.55) -Villa Maria Private Bin Hawkes Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($17.20) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Brancott B Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($35.15) -Lawsons Dry Hills Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2006 ($19.50) -Coopers Creek Gisborne Chardonnay 2005 ($26) -Pisa Range Black Poplar Central Otago Pinot Noir 2005 ($48.85) -Craggy Range Sophia Hawkes Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($61.95) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Sileni Estate Cellar Select Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($15.95) -Oyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16.95) -Craggy Range Te Muna Road Hawkes Bay Pinot Noir 2006 ($46.95) The Food: Daniel et Daniel did the catering. There was butternut squash linguine, with duck confit and shaved Brussels sprouts (meant for the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay), spring risotto with asparagus and fiddleheads and baby snow peas (meant for the aromatic varieties of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer), roasted lamb chops with Israeli couscous and pistachio (meant for the Pinot Noir), and roast venison with a chestnut-celery root puree (meant for the Bordeaux varieties). Of course, we could mix and match – and we did! The Downside: too many wines to try to assess with food-wine matches in the allotted time. It would have been useful to have had a bucket for spitting out food. The Upside: it was fun going back and forth between the foods and the wines. The Contact Person: rketchin@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 6, 2008 11:30 – 2 PM The Event: a tutored tasting of “uber wines”, moderated by Steffen Schindler from the German Wine Institute. This was followed by lunch, with a variety of German wines (including those in the seminar). The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers, LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: the seminar had six wines, drawn from the show. The Quote: “Growing Riesling world wide, the Germans lead with 61.9% of world vine coverage. Canada has only 1.3% of the world total.” The Wines: principals spoke to their wines (Nik Weis of St.Urbans Hof, Katherin Hasselbach of Gunderloch, and Peter Winter of Georg Muller Stitung), commenting on natural terroir , natural ripeness, and natural style. From the Moselle’s St. Urbans-Hof, we tried the aromatic 2007 Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein and the similar Piesporter Goldtropfchen. From Rheinhessen’s Gunderloch, we sampled the 2006 Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg (Dry) and the Auslese Goldkapsel version. And from the Rheingau’s Georg Muller Stiftung we paused over the 2006 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Hattenheimer Schutzenhaus and the Cuvee Daniel 2005 Spatburgunder Dry. The Food: bread and water at the seminar, salmon and Asian noodles, plus cheeses at lunch. The Downside: it started late with a light attendance, but filled up by noon. The Upside: a chance to catch up with the latest news in the German wine industry. The Contact Person: germanwinecanada@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 6, 2008 2PM to 5PM The Event: Germany Wines with Jazz trade show The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers, LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: most wines were available in the system, but many were private orders only. The catalogue had all of the salient data, but no prices. The Quote: “Red production of wines in German now is at 36.8% of the total” (63.2% is obviously white wine) The Wines: There were not many reds, and only one chardonnay. Gewurztraminer appears to be increasing in variety. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Britzingen Gewurztraminer Spatlese 2003 Badenweiler Romerberg -Deinhard Beerenauslese Rheinhessen 2005 -Dr.Fischer Riesling Spatlese 2006 Ockfener Bockstein ($20) -Fitz-Ritter Riesling Sekt b.A. Extra Dry ($16) -Markus Molitor Riesling Auslese 2002 Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr -Markus Molitor Riesling Spatlese 2005 Feinherb Bernkasteler Badstube -Markus Molitor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2005 Wehlener Klosterberg ($385) -Graf von Schonborn Riesling Spatlese 1991 Hochheim Domdechaney ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Balthasar Ress Riesling Auslese Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen 2004 -Darting Gewurztraminer Kabinett Durkheimer Nonnengarten 2005 -Gunderloch Gewurztraminer 2006 ($19.95) -Graf von Schonborn Estate Riesling 1994 -Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Riesling Spatlese Saarburger Rausch 1993 ($34.95) -Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Spatlese 2006 Grunlack *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fitz-Ritter Gewurztraminer Spatlese 2007 -Studert-Prum Maximinhof Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2006 ($23.95) -Blue Nun Winemakers Passion 2006 Riesling ($13) -Rappenhof Riesling Auslese 2007 Niersteiner Pettenthal -Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch Riesling Eiswein 2004 ($49.95) The Food: a continuation of lunch, with more vegetables and cheeses. The Downside: light attendance, but then that meant more room to navigate. The Upside: a chance to catch up with non-Riesling. The Contact Person: germanwinecanada@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 6, 2008 Noon to 5 PM The Event: Empson Canada portfolio tasting (agent: Woodman Wines and Spirits) The Venue: Royal Canadian Yacht Club, City Clubhouse The Target Audience: wine press, private clients and restaurants. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available in an assortment of ordering mechanisms. The Quote: “A great assortment of Barolo 2004 wines”. Eight Italian wine producers were in attendance. The Wines: The wines were mostly Italian, but there were some Oz and Kiwi wines, as well as Ojai from California. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bongiovanni Barolo 2004 ($69.95) -Einaudi Barolo “Nei Cannubi” 2004 ($105) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bongiovanni Barolo “Pernanno” 2004 ($81.95) -Conterno Fantino Barolo “Sori Ginestra” 2004 ($117.95) -Einaudi Barolo “Costa Grimaldi” 2004 ($99.95) -Marcarini Barbera d’Alba “Ciabot Camerano” 2006 ($21.95) -Marcarini Barolo “La Serra” 2004 ($64.95) -Capannelle Chicanti Classico Riserva 2003 ($54.95) -Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 Riserva ($69.95) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Conterno Fantino Barolo “Vigna del Gris” 2004 ($107.95) -Toscolo Chianti 2006 ($13.95) -Monte Antico Rosso 2004 ($14.95) -Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 ($44.95) The Food: cheeses, breads and fruits. The Downside: it conflicted with the German wine show. The Upside: a good quantity of red wines were available for tasting. The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 6, 2008 6 PM to 9 PM The Event: Vina Undurraga (Maipo) Portfolio Tasting The Venue: Designer Penthouse, Cosmopolitan Hotel The Target Audience: wine press and good-lookin’ people. The Availability/Catalogue: many were only available by private order from Azureau Wine Agency. The Quote: “Don’t mess with Zoltan: he knows how to throw a mean party!” The Wines: 10 mostly high end wines were offered, along with food from Chris MacDonald of Cava. Jose Yuraszeck (owner) and Rafael Urrejola (winemaker) were available to answer questions. They have turned around the winery, which was once a joke in North America. Zoltan Szabo was the cruising facilitator. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Terroir Hunter Syrah 2006 ($25) -Altazor Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($60) -Founder’s Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($35) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Sibaris Carmenere 2007 ($15) -Sibaris Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($15) -Terroir Hunter Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($25) -Brut 2007 (60Chardonnay/40PinotNoir) ($18) -Late Harvest 2006 Botrytis ($19) – full bottle *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Aliwen Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah 2007 ($12.45) -Aliwen Chardonnay 2007 ($12.45) The Food: it was not a formal mix and match function, so we ate the food as it came out: guacamole spread, asparagus with smoked trout, ham, scallops seviche, smoked BBQ pork ribs, tamales of corn and mushrooms. The Downside: I had just had three other tastings today, and I desperately needed to sit down. The Upside: great view from the penthouse, and a really friendly atmosphere. The Contact Person: dan@azureau.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 6. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 7, 2008 2PM to 5PM The Event: Sante 10th Anniversary Toronto International Wine Festival Trade Tasting The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: wine trade, media. The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue had detail about the wineries and about the wines, the agents, and was spiral bound. Unfortunately, there were no details about prices or the levels of availability. The Quote: “It was a shame that the Lifford tasting is on at the same time”. The Wines: I concentrated on European wines since I had a media pass to the California and Australian Sante wine shows later in the week. The unmistakable highlight of today’s show was the very crowded table of Australian Landmark wines, poured by the Australian Trade Commission. They were all worthy wines, definitely 88 points and up. Here’s the list that I enjoyed (the Moss Wood was possibly the best wine of the entire afternoon) -- * Jacob's Creek Steingarten Riesling 2006 * Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon Hunter Valley 2006 * Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 * Caves Road Chardonnay 2006 * Yering Station Chardonnay Reserve 2005 * Yering Station Pinot Noir Reserve 2005 * Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Margaret River * Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth 2004 * Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 * Katnook Cabernet Sauvignon Odyssey 2002 * Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot 2004 * Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2004 * Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2005 * Yalumba The Octavius Barossa Old Vine Shiraz 2001 * Hardy's Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2002 * Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz 2002 * Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz 2004 * Yering Station Shiraz/Viognier 2005 * St.Hallett’s Old Block Shiraz 2004 * Alkoomi BlackButt 2004 Frankland **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ascheri Moscato d’Asti 2007 -Taittinger Brut Vintage 2002 -Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1998 -KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2005 $15 -Fita Preta Vinhos Preta 2005 $56.50 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ascheri Barolo Vigna dei Pola 2003 -Naoussa Grand Reserve 2001 -Taittinger Brut Reserve -Taittinger Prestige Rose -Dom. Machard de Gramont Nuits Saint Georges “Les Hauts Pruliers” 2005 -Dom. Machard de Gramont Nuits Saint Georges Blanc “Creu Fraiche Eau” 2006 -Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 -KWV Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -Miguel Torres Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc 2005 -Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Chardonnay Marsanne Viognier 2005 -Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Coyam Red 2005 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine Skouras Viognier 2004 -Miguel Torres Spain Salmos 2005 -Navarro Correas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 -Strewn Chardonnay French Oak 2006 -Tsantali Cabernet Sauvignon Organic 2003 -Vinedos Organicos Emiliana Novas Carmenere Cabernet 2005 The Food: catered by Daniel et Daniel, with pates, crackers, salmon, and appetizers. Cheeses were from the Dairy Farmers of Canada, and included Niagara Gold. The Downside: it was lightly attended, perhaps because of the competing Lifford tasting. The Upside: there was actually food this time instead of just Dairy Farmer Canada cheese and bread. The Contact Person: steve@stevethurlow.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 7. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 8, 2008 6:30PM to 9 PM The Event: Weihenstephen Beer Launch by the Beer Barons agency. The Venue: The Bier Markt, on The Esplanade The Target Audience: media and beer drinkers. The Availability/Catalogue: there are seven beers in the portfolio, and six were available for sampling tonight. The only beer not here was Festbier, a light barley malt only made for Octoberfest. But it will be here in October. The Quote: “Durst auf Leb en” – thirst for life. The Beers: Weihenstephan is “the world’s oldest brewery”. The Weihenstephan monastery (Freising, Bavaria) acquired a license for brewing in 1040 -- and it still stands! * Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier – this one will be in bottle at Bier Markt; the others will be coming, if as promised.. * Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkel – a dark version of the hefe, rich fruity. * Weihenstephaner Kristall Weissbier – very well-made, with a tangier finish than most. * Weihenstephaner Vitus – my fave, good ripe flavours, some sweetness, spicy. * Weihenstephaner Original Premium – bottom-fermenting lager, filtered, very popular. * Weihenstephaner Korbinian – dark barley malt, medium hopped, very good with heavy smoked meats. The Food: passarounds of bar grub, sausages, etc. The Downside: I had to leave quite early in order to make the California wine component of the Sante wine festival. The Upside: most helpful was Alyson our server. She took us through all of the beers, in advance of others, so that I could taste with some of the food. She was quite knowledgeable, and a keeper. The Contact Person: Danielle Iversen d@thatPRthing.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 8. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 8, 2008 7PM to 10PM The Event: California Cruisin’: a Sante tasting of California wines. The Venue: Crystal & Currelly Galleries at the ROM The Target Audience: consumers. The Availability/Catalogue: the normal Sante catalogue was presented, with all the relevant data about the wines and the grapes. It only lacked for levels of availability and prices. Most of the wines being shown were somewhere in the LCBO distribution system. The Quote: “The range of wines here is impressive, from Martha’s Vineyard at $230 a bottle down to plonk.” The Wines: 27 wineries were slated to exhibit some 100 wines. I did not taste them all. I managed to get a few prices. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay Napa 2005 $44.95 -Chimney Rock Elevage 2004 $72 -Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Stages Leap District 2005 $58 -Cuvaison Brandlin Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $80 -Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard 2002 $230 -Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $160 -Nichols Winery Edna Ranch Pinot Noir Clone 777 2001 $52.50 -Nichols Winery Vinas del Sol Merlot 2000 -Robert Craig Mt.Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $98 -Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Reserve 2004 $83 -Hess Collection Artezin Zinfandel 2006 $24 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $39.95 -Cakebread Chardonnay 2005 -Buena Vista Carneros Chardonnay 2005 -Clos du Bois Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -Cuvaison Chardonnay Carneros 2006 $26 -Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Chardonnay 2006 -Heitz Cellars Chardonnay 2006 -Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 -Ironstone Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005 $32 -Paul Dolan/Parducci Organic Chardonnay 2006 -Robert Craig Affinty 2005 $60.50 -Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $57 -Tangley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $23 -Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $24 -Thomas Fogarty Gewurztraminer Monterey 2006 $22 -Thomas Fogarty Skyline Red 2005 $19 -Hess Collection Monterey Chardonnay 2006 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $18 -Robert Mondavi Private Selection Chardonnay 2006 -Sterling Napa Valley Chardonnay 2005 -Tangley Oaks Chardonnay 2005 $20 -Trinchero Family Menage a Trois White 2006 The Food: Globe Bistro (Chef Ben Heaton) had a lobster seviche in a spoon, Far Niente (Chef Gordon Mackie) had crab cakes, while Reds (Chef Michael Steh) had Berkshire pork belly. The Dairy Farmers of Canada contributed three cheeses. Daniel et Daniel did a table spread of dips and veggies. Starbucks contributed coffees. The Downside: the evening went by incredibly fast. The Upside: good crowd control, with no shoving or pushing. The Contact Person: steve@stevethurlow.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 9. The Time and Date: Friday, May 9, 2008 2PM to 5 PM The Event: Tasting of agent Le Sommelier’s winemakers at Sante: DogRidge (Australia), Fita Preta Vinhos (Portugal), and Nichols Winery (California). The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street The Target Audience: private customers, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available or will be soon. The Quote: “Some of the wines here have won awards at Sante, in “the best medium to full-bodied red wine” category. The 2005 Fita Preta and the 2004 DogRidge MVP Shiraz are this year’s winners. Previous winners were DogRidge DV7 at Sante in 2004 and 2005. The Wines: wines were tasted at an open bar. Fred Howard, winemaker and owner of DogRidge vineyards in McLaren Vale, South Australia; David Booth, viticulturist of Fita Preta Vinhos from Alentejo, Portugal; Keith Nichols, winemaker and owner of Nichols Winery & Cellars from San Luis Obispo, California – all poured and commented on their wines. It was an insightful tasting. Keith Nichols, by the way, holds back his wines until he feels they are ready: he has a huge inventory. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -DogRidge Digs Vineyard Shiraz 2004 $42 -DogRidge MVP Shiraz 2004 $84 -Nichols Paragon Vineyard Chardonnay 2002 Edna Valley $44.25 -Nichols Edna Ranch Clone 777 Pinot Noir 2001 Edna Valley $52.50 -Nichols Vinas del Sol Merlot 2000 San Luis Obispo $39.95 -Fita Preta 2005 $56.50 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -DogRidge The Pup Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $20.95 -DogRidge The Pup Chardonnay 2006 $20.95 -DogRidge The Pup Cabernet Merlot 2005 $20.95 -Nichols Vinas del Sol Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 San Luis Obispo $52.50 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Nichols Silver Fox Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $18 -Fita Preta Sexy Red 2006 $22.25 -Fita Preta Sexy Rose 2006 $17.85 The Food: artisanal cheeses and breads. The Downside: for me, I had to go on to the Australian tasting. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste many award winning wines. The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 10. The Time and Date: Friday, May 9, 2008 7PM to 10PM The Event: Sante Down Under – a tasting of Australian wines. The Venue: Hart House The Target Audience: consumers. The Availability/Catalogue: the normal Sante catalogue was presented, with all the relevant data about the wines and the grapes. It only lacked for levels of availability and prices. Most of the wines being shown were somewhere in the LCBO distribution system. The Quote: “This is a really fun time. I’m learning a lot about wines” (from Celeste) The Wines: 18 wineries poured just under 100 wines. I did not try them all. Prices were problematic. See my notes above for DogRidge. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ardent Antiquarian McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 -Ardent Estates McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Shiraz 2004 $23 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Ardent Antiquarian McLaren Vale Shiraz 2001 -Ardent Estates McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004 -Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2005 $18 -Barossa Valley Estates E Minor Shiraz 2005 -Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2004 -Hope Estate Ripper Shiraz 2005 $16.50 -Hope Estate Chardonnay 2006 $19.95 -Katnook Founder’s Block Shiraz 2005 -Nugan Estate Manuka Grove Durif 2006 $30 -St. Hallett Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Gemtree Tadpole Chardonnay 2007 -Gemtree Bloodstone Shiraz 2006 -Grant Burge Miamba Shiraz 2006 $22 -Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV $14.95 -Jacob’s Creek Reserve Riesling 2007 $18 -Katnook Founders Block Merlot 2005 -Nugan Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006 -Salena Estate Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 -Tiers Clarence Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $18 -Tiers Clarence Hill Chardonnay 2005 $17 -Tidswell Jennifer Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 The Food: BBQ lamb with Chef Anthony Sedlak. Other foods included a spicy noodle dish with octopus, some hot pastry finger foods, veggies and dips, breads, chips and salsa. The Downside: for me, it was a long week of wine tasting. The Upside: there was plenty of room to roam, despite the over 500 tickets sold. The Contact Person: steve@stevethurlow.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 11. The Time and Date: Monday, May 12, 2008 6 PM to 8PM The Event: the Annual New Kids on the Block tasting, by the Ontario Wine Society. This is the sixth one. The Venue: University of Toronto Faculty Club The Target Audience: members of the society and their guests. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines tasted tonight are from six Ontario wineries, and are available at the winery. The Quote: “These six wineries represent the latest additions to VQA wines in Ontario”. Most winemakers or principals were in attendance, and many brochures were distributed. Each wine was presented with a discussion. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Cornerstone Estate 2004 Chardonnay $12.95 – creamy nose, coconut tones from US oak, still young and vibrant. -Alvento Winery Elige 2004 $27.80 – a Meritage blend with CS,CF and M, tannic and dense, a bit chunky, but very Bordeaux in shape, with a St.Estephe rusticity. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Organized Crime Gewurztraminer 2006 $22 – aromatic, good mouthfeel, nice lean flavours without a bitter finish. -Cattail Creek Estate Winery Dry Riesling 2006 $15 – a bit austere but with petrol tones in the finish. -Cattail Creek Estate Winery Pinot Noir 2007 $18 – light in colour but intensely fruity, cherries and strawbs, lower acid, French oak for three months. -Riverview Cellars Salvatore’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $29.95 – clean, good development, pure cab sauvignon flavours but not dense, good solid finish. -Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2007 $14.95 – really fresh and aromatic, excellent development with body. Definitely a Gris style. Reception wine. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Riverview Cellars Gewurztraminer 2007 $18.95 – cheerful, with some spices showing, needed time to open up, best slightly chilled. -Sprucewood Shores Meritage 2005 $24.95 – needed time to open up, definite cabernet franc complexity, still tight and taut on finish. -Organized Crime Pinot Gris 2006 $17 – rustic quality, not expected, but some citric tones, and better with food. Reception wine. The Food: we had pate and cheeses, hot appetizers, salmon and trout pinwheels. The Downside: there was supposed to be an annual general meeting, but several executive members could not attend, so the AGM was postponed. The Upside: it was lightly attended (a downer) by only 50 people, but this gave more space and time for a engaging question and answer session. The Contact Person: www.ontariowinesociety.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 12. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 11AM to 1 PM The Event: Delicato Family Vineyards tasting of Gnarly Head wines, with James Ewart, one of six winemakers employed by the family owned firm. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square The Target Audience: wine writers. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are available in the LCBO system, but one is private order (Irony Pinot Noir). Several tiers of wine are made. The Quote: “We are moving ahead with sustainable farming practices, which includes owl boxes, open vines, aquatic habitats. Self-assessment happens all the time.” The Wines: 12 wines were poured. Prices are retail. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Irony Chardonnay 2005 Napa $19.75 Vintages July 2008 -Gnarlier Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2005 Dry Creek Valley Sommer’s Vineyard $27.75 Vintages August 2008 -337 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Lodi (made from Cabernet clone 337) $20.79 Consignment ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Loredona Pinot Grigio 2006 Monterey $16.75 Vintages -Clay Station Viognier 2006 Lodi $20.79 Consignment -Irony Pinot Noir 2005 Russian River $29.75 Private Order -Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2006 Lodi $19.76 Consignment -Gnarly Head Cabernet 2005 California $16.75 GL +68924 -Irony Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Napa $21.75 Vintages December 2008 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2006 California $16.75 GL +68932 -Irony Pinot Noir 2005 Monterey $19.75 Vintages December 2008 -Loredona Riesling Monterey 2006 $16.75 Vintages The Food: bread and water. The Downside: there was a light turnout of wine writers. The Upside: a chance to be virtually one-on-one with the winemaker. The Contact Person: haddleton@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 13. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 15, 2008 1:30 – 5:30PM The Event: New Zealand Wine Fair Trade Show The Venue: Design Exchange - DX The Target Audience: sommeliers, restaurants, LCBO product consultants, media. The Availability/Catalogue: as usual, a terrific catalogue: spiral bound, fits in the hands okay, logos, background, contact details, agents, wines and vintage dates, prices where known, and terms of availability (Vintages, Vintages Pending, General, Consignment, Private order). The catalogue also had varietal guides to index what wineries were pouring which varietals. The Quote: “Hey, the overhead lights work this year! Next year, maybe the clocks?” The Wines: I did not taste every wine. There were just under 50 wineries. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2006 $36 -Cable Bay Five Hills Merlot/Cabernet/Malbec Waiheke Island 2005 $25.95 -Newton Forrest Cornerstone Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec Hawkes Bay 2005 $39.50 -Babich Patriarch Cab Franc/Cab Sauvignon/ Merlot/ Malbec Hawkes Bay 2004 $49.95 -Coopers Creek Viognier Gisborne 2007 $16.95 -Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay Wairarapa 2006 $44.95 -Mt Rosa Pinot Gris Central Otago 2006 $29.99 -Cuvee Number Eight Methode Traditionelle Sparkling Marlborough NV $32.95 -Palliser Estate Pinto Noir Martinborough 2006 $35.95 -Staete Landt Pinot Noir Marlborough 2006 $43.50 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Villa Maria Reserve Merlot Hawkes Bay 2004 $50 -Craggy Range Te Kahu Hawkes Bay 2005 $34.95 -Akarua Chardonnay Central Otago 2006 $24.95 -Coopers Creek Select Vineyard Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2006 $24.95 -Gibbston Highgate Estate Heartbreaker Chardonnay Central Otago 2006 $32 -Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir Marlborough 2006 $39.99 -Kawarau Estate Sauvignon Blanc Central Otago 2007 $27.95 -Millton Opou Chardonnay Gisborne 2005 $26.95 -Millton Clos de St. Ange Pinot Noir Gisborne 2006 $55.60 -Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir Wairarapa 2006 $65.95 -Mount Riley Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2007 $24.95 -Mud House Swan Chardonnay Marlborough 2007 $22.99 -Ngatarawa Alwyn Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2006 $24.95 -Cuvee Number 1 Methode Traditionelle Sparkling Marlborough NV $36.95 -Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2006 $24.95 -Spy Valley Pinot Noir Marlborough 2006 $24.95 -Carrick Pinot Noir Central Otago 2006 $57.95 -Te Awa Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay 2007 $19.95 -Waitiri Creek Chardonnay Central Otago 2006 $?? -Waitiri Creek Pinot Noir Central Otago 2006 $39.95 -Resolute Pinot Noir Marlborough 2005 $39.95 -Resolute Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2007 $24.95 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Babich Winemakers’ Reserve Hawkes Bay Syrah 2006 $18.99 -Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawkes Bay Syrah 2005 $30 -Coopers Creek SV Huapai “The Clays” Malbec 2006 Auckland $24.95 -Matakana Estate Pinot Gris Matakana 2007 $27.85 -Matua Valley Matheson Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkes Bay 2005 $23.95 -Saint Clair Pioneer Block 12 Lone Gum Gewurztraminer Marlborough 2007 $23.60 -Te Awa Left Field Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2007 -Tohu Chardonnay Marlborough 2006 $19 The Food: the press had sandwiches and coffee, in addition to the spread on the floor (cheeses, pavlovas, crackers and breads, veggies). The Downside: time was too short for me, even at 4 hours. There were a lot of people after 4 PM, producing crowds. The Upside: great space for exhibiting. The Contact Person: rketchin@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 14. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 2PM to 5PM The Event: 10th Anniversary Portfolio Tasting of the Barrel Select agency. The Venue: Rosewater Dinner Club The Target Audience: resto-clients in afternoon, consumer-clients in the evening. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available for ordering, through finewine@barrelselect.com or www.barrelselect.com. The catalogue was full and complete, with profiles of the wineries and wines, case production, percentages of grapes used, vineyard names. There was a separate price list for licensee and consumers. The Quote: “We spent about $11,000 on LCBO lab fees for this tasting”. The Wines: Barrel Select began 10 years ago by repping higher end California wines. Tom Eddy has been with them from the start. They do not submit samples for purchase by Vintages/Classics. 80 wines were available for tasting, but I did not taste all of them. The range includes California wines, some from Oregon via Siduri of California, some from Argentina via Paul Hobbs of California, and some from the portfolio of Kermit Lynch Imports (110 winemakers in France alone, about 10 from Italy). Indeed, Barrel Select has access to ALL of Kermit Lynch Imports EXCEPT for what is available via other agents. Here are my rankings (licensee prices): **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Andrew Will 2004 Sorella Red [Bordeaux blend] $92.24 -Brewer Clifton 2005 Pinot Noir Ashley Vineyard $73.79 -Hanzell 2005 Sonoma Chardonnay Estate $89.78 -Kunin Wines 2004 Syrah Alios Vyd $49.39 -Mantra 2005 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel $43.95 -Neyers 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Neyer Ranch Conn Valley [organic] $66.64 -Ramey Wine Cellars 2005 Chardonnay Ritchie Vyd $98.37 -Ramey Wine Cellars 2005 Cabernet Pedregal Vyd $180.04 -Tom Eddy 2002 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon $118.99 -Vina Cobas Bramare Appellation 2005 Malbec Lujan de Coyo [Argentina] $53.68 -Vina Cobos Cobos 2004 Malbec [70 year old vines, Argentina] $218.62 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Arietta 2006 On the White Keys White [Bordeaux blend] $79.26 -Arietta 2005 Variation One Red [syrah/merlot] $129.52 -Brewer Clifton 2005 Chardonnay Sweeney Canyon 16.4$ ABV $83.29 -Castle Rock 2006 Central Coast Chardonnay $16.95 -Aldin Red 2005 [Meritage blend] $81.96 -Saint Martin de la Garrigue Rose 2007 (France) $14.81 -Regis Minet 2006 Pouilly Fume Vieilles Vignes $26.55 -Kunin Wines 2005 Santa Barbara County Syrah $39.96 -Neyers 2006 Napa Chardonnay $42.11 -Paul Hobbs Wines 2005 Russian River Chardonnay $70.09 -Paul Hobbs Wines 2004 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon $114.20 -Ramey Wine Cellars 2006 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vyd $89.93 -Siduri Wines 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir [Oregon] $27.97 -Vina Cobas Bramare Appellation 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Lujan de Coyo {Argentina] $46.45 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Arietta 2005 H Block Cabernet Franc Hudson Vineyard Red $177.36 -Castle Rock 2006 Monterey Sauvignon Blanc $16.95 -Copain Wine Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard Anderson $55.89 -Two Wives 2007 Napa Sauvignon Blanc $24.89 -Mantra 2004 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon $36.20 The Food: excellent cheeses and breads, fruit. I noted Thunder Oak Gouda (aged, ON), Le Cru du Clocher (raw cheddar from PQ), Le Explorateur (PQ), Benedictine Bleu (PQ), Manchego, Provolone Picante, and Coulommiers Au Lait Cru. The Downside: water was in short supply, and there was never a spit bucket around when I needed one. I’m high maintenance… The Upside: great opportunity to taste fine California wines. The Contact Person: daun@barrelselect.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 15. The Time and Date: Thursday May 22, 2008 7PM to 11PM The Event: private dinner with Maison Albert Bichot, a winemaker’s dinner featuring nine wines. The Venue: Chez Victor Restaurant, Hotel le Germain. The Target Audience: wine media of Dean Tudor and Michael Pinkus. The Availability/Catalogue: all the major wines were available for purchase through the On-Premise Channel. The Vieilles Vignes are in consignment, probably as regulars. The Quote: “We just did a Private Order Release of Bichot at the Burgundy Tasting about one month ago, and we are doing an additional private offering for the winemaker’s visit.” These were the wines that we tasted tonight. The Wines: Alain Serveau (head winemaker) and Jean-Christophe Rolland (North American export director) told us about Maison Albert Bichot, its growth and philosophy. It is the largest supplier of Burgundy to Quebec, where JC currently lives. The firm also buys a lot (17%) of Hospices-de-Beaune wines (on the label as Nicolas Rolin Cuvee). They have four wineries, one per area that they are active in: that way the grapes do not have to travel far. The wines were opened at 10AM and were aerated as they had been showed earlier in the day to others. It was useful, though, to taste the Vieilles Vignes bottles. They were both a bit muted. I requested fresh bottles, and they were both pretty good (there is no point in opening modestly priced wines far in advance, but do note the Beaujolais below). **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bichot Chassagne Montrachet 2006 $65, 300 cases made: succulence- driven, probably because the wine was served at room temperature. Vanilla and almonds. -Bichot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine du Pavillon 2006 $90, 200 cases, all BF, delivers fruit and length in excess. Some caramel, even toffee. A well-made wine. -Bichot Beaujolais Villages Domaine Monthoux 2006 $15, 3K cases made. A revelation – the best wine of the night for right here and now, certainly at this price point. Full density and brambly fruit, almost to the North American taste. Opened at 10AM, so it must have shed some tannins to air. My wife and Pinkus loved it, and so did I. In fact, we ordered a case! -Gevrey Chambertin Les Murots Domaine du Clos Frantin 2006 $65, 40% new oak, very fleshy. Red fruit of strawberry dominates. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bichot Chablis Domaine Long Depaquit 2007 $25, stainless, basic level of four tiers. -Bichot Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2005, $19.95 Consignment. 2006 will be in twist top, 25K cases made, BF and barrel aged 13 months, 20% new oak. Good texture, pears, ripe vanilla. -Bichot Vosne Romanee 2005 $70, good example: MVC violets, black fruit, chocolate tones, 18 months in 45% new oak. *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bichot Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2005, $19.95 Consignment. 2006 will be in twist top, 25K cases made, barrel aged 13 months, 20% new oak. Good texture, typical MVC for pinot from Burgundy. But exceptionally stylish. Good restaurant wine. The Food: it was off-the-menu since there were only 8 of us. I encouraged Alain to order dishes that complemented the wines. Here’s what some of us ate, and sampled with the wine. This generated a lot of conversation: We began with a Niagara charcuterie plate of prosciuto, salami, besaola, plus pate. This was followed by an amuse…And then -Bison tartare with soft fried egg -Citrus cured sea trout with sour apple gel and celery -Sweetbread and smoked chicken tortellini, sage and hazelnut sauce -Kerr Farms Beef Strip loin with braised short rib and mushroom poutine -Grassroots plate of roasted parsnips, salsify, squash puree, braised chard, and marinated eggplant. -Elk chop with mash and peas, fiddleheads and mushrooms -Cheeses: Comfort Cream, Mount Jacob, Tiger Blue. – All were great with the leftover wines. The Downside: the Chez Victor’s music had to be turned down, since we could not hear each other across the table. Also, the table got crowded with all the wine glasses and food and room for writing notes. The Upside: I was allowed to bring my French-speaking wife who provided me with some insights into the wines. The Contact Person: cgemmell@markanthony.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 Noon to 3PM The Event: Luncheon and seminar component of the California Winemakers on Tour (wineries owned by Foster’s) The Venue: Fermentations Cellar, Distillery District The Target Audience: wine writers at lunch, and then sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: most of the California Cabernet Sauvignons that we tasted from 2004, in a seminar given by six of the seven winemakers, were not available for purchase. The Quote: “For a classic seminar on the great 2004 vintage of California cabernets, it was remarkable that this oversubscribed presentation had an initial light turnout and thus started late. By the time it got into full action, there were about 20 empty spots.” The Wines: We had a light sit-down luncheon with a seafood salad, cold roasted meats, and a cheese platter. During the lunch we tried some wines made by our winemaker host at our table: Danielle Cyrot of Stags’ Leap Winery and then St. Clement. We had a Beringer Alluvium Blanc 2006, Greg Norman Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2005, Stag’s Leap Winery Petite Syrah 1998, and St. Clement “Oroppas” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 and 2002. We had great conversation in comparing and contrasting the wines with the foods. Wine writers were scattered over other tables with other winemakers and their wines. The seminar was moderated by David Lawrason. The only winemaker at the show but not in the seminar was Natasha Boffman, from TAZ of Santa Barbara, which makes no cabernet. All wines came from 750mL bottles, but two were available for sale in magnums and half bottles (see below): -Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 2004 – full California MVC, lush, mouthfilling, long lingering length. -Souverain Winemakers Reserve (WMR) Alexander Valley – broad flavours but a bit shrill on the finish. -Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages Sonoma – classic left bank Bordeaux- style blend. Dramatic, earthy, cassis, long persistence, polished texture. It was available as private order as a half-bottle for $60. -St. Clement Oroppas Napa Valley – Opus One style, 60/40 merlot blend. Now it is more 85/15 cabernet sauvignon blend). Voluptuous and ready now. -Stags’ Leap Winery The Leap Napa Valley – soft, fulsome, ripe, and ready. -Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley – tough, needed time to open up and to soften its structure. -Etude Napa Valley – mocha, tannins in mid-palate, soft finish. Magnums available as private order for $220. The Downside: I could not believe the low attendance at the seminar. The Upside: a great opportunity to talk with several different winemakers, who, as Lawrason noted, have worked at their respective wineries for quite a long time, ensuring some measure of stability. The Contact Person: angela.lyons@am.fostersgroup.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94 17. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 Noon to 6PM The Event: California Winemakers on Tour (wineries owned by Foster’s) The Venue: Fermentations Cellar, Distillery District The Target Audience: wine trade in the afternoon, consumers in the evening. The Availability/Catalogue: just about all wines are available, through the LCBO or Consignment or as Private orders. Some of the vintage dates were off, either because the wines were not available for tasting or because a newer shipment was “on the water”. The Quote: The Wines: There was a seminar beforehand, with six of seven winemakers talking to their wines: California Cabernet Sauvignon of 2004. I did not taste all the wines in the show: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $39.75 +352583 Vintages -Beringer Stanly Ranch Chardonnay 2005, $39.95 Private order – honeyed -Beringer Alluvium Blanc 2006, $29.95 Private Order – oaky -Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $550 for 3 Litres, Private Order -St. Clement Oroppas Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $65 Private order -St. Clement Oroppas Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $140 magnum Private order (slightly better than the 2001) -Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, $110 magnum, Private Order. -Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $99 Private order. -Stags’ Leap Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, $70 Private order -Stags’ Leap Winery Napa Valley Petite Syrah 1998, $49.95 Private order ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beringer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, $29.95, +552851 Private Order -St. Clement Napa Valley Merlot 2003, $85 for magnum, Private Order -St. Clement Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $110 for magnum, Private Order. -Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Chardonnay 2006 Sonoma County, $19.95 Private Order -Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Chardonnay 2006, $24.95 Private order. -Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County Merlot 2004, $35.95 +67926 Vintages -Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $98.20 +710913 Vintages. -Souverain Alexander Valley Syrah 2004, $19.95 +590323 Vintages – great bargain -Stags’ Leap Winery Napa Valley Petite Syrah 2004, $49.95 +590356 Vintages -Greg Norman Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2005, $21.95 Private order *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Beringer Third Century Chardonnay, $23.75 +47696 Vintages -Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay 2005, $27.90 +348342 General List -Greg Norman Lake County Zinfandel 2005, $23.95 Private order The Food: catered by Daniel et Daniel: dips, wraps, salsas. The Downside: it seemed to be lightly attended once you factored in the 50 consumer guests of the Globe and Mail. Also, some wines were not shown because they were held up at the airport; they will be covered later. The Upside: a chance at a vertical tasting of Cinq Cepages. The Contact Person: angela.lyons@am.fostersgroup.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR APRIL 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1. Trius White 2006 (+54957) – Cuvee Award for Best White Assemblage - $18.95: 12.5%ABV, tropical fruit plus some light vanilla tones, blended as a sipper. 2. Trius Riesling 2006 (+303792 GL) – Cuvee Award for Best LCBO White Wine - $13.95: 11.5%ABV, cool climate version of Riesling, but a classic, not as dry as earlier years. 3. Hillebrand Artist Series Meritage 2005 (+56390 GL) – Cuvee Award for Best LCBO Red Wine -$12.95: clear bottle indicates that it is ready to consume now, like a light Entre-deux-Mers with both cabernets plus merlot in a bright New World style, fruit and chocolate overtones. 4. Thirty Bench Small Lot Triangle Riesling 2006 Beamsville Bench (+25031) – Cuvee Award for Best Riesling - $32.00: 11.6%ABV, shows intense Riesling character in an Alsatian mode, with a long finish. 262 cases made from the Triangle Vineyard. 5. Thirty Bench Small Lot Benchmark Red 2005 Beamsville Bench (1034115) – Cuvee Award for Best Overall Red Wine -$60.00: 13.6%, very tight now, needed time to open, about two days, a wine to cellar. 226 cases made. 6. Peller Ice Cuvée Rosé NV (1023769) – Cuvee Award for Best Sparkling Wine - $35.00: 12%ABV, cabernet franc wine was added for colour, and some icewine was added for the dosage. Tasted similar to the Crystal that won prizes at OWA as well, off-dry mode, slightly caramel tones. 7. Stoney Ridge Pinot Noir 2006 VQA (LCBO GL, $12.95): ripe, soft from all ML fermentation, aged 9 months in oak and stainless. Red fruit, some licorice. 8. Stoney Ridge Pinot Noir Reserve 2006 (LCBO General List, $16.95): from the Cave Spring Vineyard, all ML fermented, 9 months oak ageing. Loaded with MVC flavours for a cool climate, but needs time to cellar. 9. Stoney Ridge Merlot 2006 VQA (Winery, $12.95): layers of spice, may need time to resolve fruit and acid. Their notes suggest “enjoy in 5 to 10 years”, which seems a long time for a modestly priced wine. Both red and black fruit aromas and tones. 10. Stoney Ridge Merlot Reserve 2006 VQA (Winery, $42.95 for 2005 vintage): still taut and tight, but fruit will come around. 12.5% ABV. Needs lots of time for opening and decanting. 11. Stoney Ridge Riesling 2007 VQA (LCBO GL, $11.85): citrus and minerals, long length, Alsatian mode. 12. Stoney Ridge Chardonnay 2006 VQA (LCBO GL, $12.85): not as good as the 2004 but a satisfactory replacement. There is a fruit-wood balance here, beginning with tropical leanness and moving to creaminess. 15% of the wine came from 2004 vintage, which used oak chips for six months. The 2006 was in stainless steel and mixed barrels for a year. 13. Stoney Ridge Chardonnay Reserve 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench (LCBO GL, $16.95): uses both French and US oak for resultant creaminess, with some cloves showing. Good value for Ontario chard. 12.5% ABV. 14. Stoney Ridge Shiraz 2006 VQA (Winery, $12.95): with some merlot added (5%) for softness. First time for Shiraz at Stoney Ridge. Massive development of chocolate, plums, and the usual MVC of Shiraz. Six months in oak, can be aged for a few more years. All ML fermented. 15. Stoney Ridge Baco Noir Reserve 2006 VQA (LCBO GL, $14.95): twist top, lowish alcohol at 11.5%, begins with fruit and lingers with mocha tones. Tried with venison and mushroom pie, great accompaniment. All MF fermented, 11 months in oak. 16. Stoney Ridge Pinot Grigio 2006 VQA (Winery, $12.95): probably better as a sipper since it has that soave-like complexity with melons and peaches. Paired well with a spinach soufflé. 12% ABV. 17. Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer 2006 St.David’s Bench VQA ($19.95) delivers a strong memory of Alsace without actually being there. Good finishing bitterness. 13.5% ABV. Don’t serve it too chilled. 18. Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2006 NOTL VQA, 12.5% ABV, twist top, bright, zesty, developing well, try it with stir-fried Chinese vegetables. 19. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 St. David’s Bench VQA, 13% ABV. It has been awhile since I last tasted a Charmes cabernet sauvignon – I should get out more…This one from the short crop 2005 was aged one year in French oak, and exhibits mounds of black currants upfront, and later, some complex Bordeaux-tones. Needs cellaring. Could be great with shanks (lamb, veal, pork) or oxtail, even neck or cheeks. ======================================================================= 1. The Time and Date: Monday, April 7, 2008 3 PM to 7 PM The Event: the sixth annual Churchill Cellars Portfolio Tasting. The Venue: National Ballet School, Jarvis Street. The Target Audience: trade, wine media, private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is landed and available, through the General List or Vintages. There were half a dozen private orders, and nothing from Consignment. A total of some 85 wines. The Quote: “Most of the wines here are from the General List. I felt that while there was value here, there was a lost of uniqueness and character. Where were the wines of yesteryear? Quail’s Gate? Leasingham? Ports?” The Wines: there were some unannounced surprises that had to be requested, or were only available at certain times. I think that there were two bottles of each. Of course, these were super premium wines, full of richness and character. They are NOT included below, but they were outstanding: Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Heredad ($30 ISD), a Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001 ($160?), Pol Roger Brut Champagne Reserve ($82 ISD), Bay of Fires Tasmania Pinot Noir 2006 ($30), and Pol Roger Extra Rich in 375mL bottle. I was also unable to locate a vintage year in most cases, but presumably they are the latest vintage available. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Pol Roger Brut Champagne NV GL $54.40 (or fight!) -Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 GL $19.80 -Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Vintages $37.45 (15%ABV) -D’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz Vintages $55.30 -Hardy’s Stamp of Australia Riesling Gewurztraminer GL $9.60 (nominated as this summer’s quaffer) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Segura Viudas Brut Reserva GL $14.65 -Woodbridge by Mondavi Merlot GL $13.85 – very juicy -Casa Silva Quinta Generacion Red Vintages $21.95 -Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva Red Vintages $15.65 -D’Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier Vintages $27.75 -Dr.Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Kabinett Vintages $21.60 -D’Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne Vintages $16.75 -D’Arenberg The Football Shiraz Vintages $21.75 -Bankside Shiraz Vintages $16.65 -Robertson Winery Prospect Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Vintages $18.75 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2006 GL $15.85 -Ravenswood Vintners Blend Zinfandel Vintages $17.60 -Wilm Riesling Alsace Vintages $15.65 -Nobilo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc General $15.75 The Food: yummies everywhere, with cheese from the Cheese Boutique (asiago, paillot de chevre, mamirolle, benedictine blue), savoury cookies from M + G Kitchens (www.mgkitchens.ca), and smoked turkey and ham sandwiches, plus sauces, from White House Meats. The Downside: there was an accident that closed off part of Jarvis Street, and this made driving and parking particularly onerous. The Upside: great food, some ambitious wines, good bunch of trade and private clients. The Contact Person: chris@churchillcellars.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 2. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 10, 2008 4:40 PM to 6 PM The Event: launch of D’Alma Aguardente Velha by Corby’s. The Venue: Lisbon by Night restaurant, College Street. The Target Audience: wine and food media. The Availability/Catalogue: it is at Vintages, +61051, $69.40 for 500mL (that’s half a litre). The Quote: “Such smoothness and mellow character” The Brandy: Messieurs Armando de Medeiros and Jose Salvacao Barreto from Casa Macieira in Estremadura, Portugal, presented the brandy, made by Bombarral Distillery. It is at 40%ABV in a distinctive bottle, repped by Corby’s in Ontario. The brandy, from selected casks, has been aged a minimum of 10 years in new French oak. It was very smooth and mellow, fruity aromatic beginning with toast notes and caramel, finishes a bit off-dry, no heat. It certainly went well with the food. A worthwhile competitor to Cognac, but at Cognac prices. The Food: a variety of potato cod cakes, chorizo, chicken and beef kebabs, grilled calamari, fried calamari, fresh fruit (including ground cherries), one bite tarts and custards. The Downside: I got there at 4:45, but apparently speeches had started at 4:30. I’m sorry to have missed most of them, but it is unheard of for anything in the wine and spirits trade to start exactly on time. And people continued to arrive after I did! Also, there were no PR kits or, at least, a sheet of tech notes. The Upside: great mixer, fine brandy, excellent food. The Contact Person: mary@torchiacom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 3. The Time and Date: Monday, April 14, 2008 6:30 PM + The Event: kick off event for the “Austrian Wines by the Riedel Glass” restaurant campaign in Toronto. The Venue: Globe Bistro. The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are available on a month-by-month basis. For May, it is Globe Bistro. Fat Cat Bistro is June and July, while August has Amaya the Indian Room, and September is Eight Wine Bar. The Quote: “Willi Klinger from the Austrian Wine Marketing Board plus agents and Austrian vintners are here.” The Wines: wines were scattered on a small table which we could try at our own pleasure (it got crowded at times), agents and vintners poured wines but rarely showed the labels unless asked. It was a true potpourri of vinous materials. I did taste an introductory sparkler Sieber Bam Extra Sekt which went well with the appetizers (turnovers, beets on a spoon, some meats). I did not try the red wines. Here’s the list (there was no separately available list of wines at the dinner): *Kies Angerer Gruner Veltliner Wachau 2006 – very dry *Rabl Gruner Veltliner Kamptal 2006 – off-dry, good body *Aichinger Riesling Von den Terrassen Kamptal 2006 – my fave *Kellermeister Gruner Veltliner Winzer Krems 2007 – very friendly, finishes off-dry. Bottled two weeks ago, 2006 in Vintages in August. *Polsterer Gruner Veltliner Wagram Pur 2007 – off-dry *Opitz Silver Lake Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc 2006 – off-dry sipper *Stift Altenburg Chardonnay 2007 – twist top, 13.5% ABV, bone dry *Felsner Gruner Veltliner Moosburgerin 2007 – twist top, fresh, off-dry The Food: there was some choice, and the dishes were restaurant-sized, not small plates. I had Cookstown greens with pickled vegetables; a brined pork chop with black pudding, crackling, and rilettes (a bit of overkill with the pork products); and sticky toffee pudding (dry). The Downside: we milled about for almost an hour in a small space. There were also no speeches or other enlightened announcements on the food and wine. I left early because of the time. The Upside: a nice chance to try Austrian wines with food. The Contact Person: Birgitta Samavarchian toronto@austriantrade.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 12 PM to 4 PM The Event: Austrian Annual Wine Trade Fair The Venue: Rosehill Venue Lounge The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: the Austrian wine catalogue has always been a model of perfection. Everything you could possibly want is in it, with listings of wineries, importers, contacts, page and table numbers, grape varietals, ABVs, vintages, etc. with few errors. The only missing are the prices and the correct availability of the wine (Vintages, consignment, private orders). Given the nature of the Austrian wine business, most wines in Ontario are here on consignment or by private order, and prices thus fluctuate. The Quote: “Hey the catalogue says that this tasting runs from 12AM to 4 PM – that’s a long tasting…It’s actually a sleepover!” The Wines: I was unable to get around to all the tables, and I cherry picked my way through the red and sweet wines. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2006 (13.5% ABV) -Brundlmayer Riesling Alte Reben 2001 (14% ABV) -Kamptaler Terrassen Gruner Veltliner 2007 -Schloss Gobelsberg Grüner Veltliner Tradition 2005 -Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner Spies Reserve 2007 -Nigl Gruner Veltliner Senftenberger 2007 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Salomon Gruner Veltliner Lindberg Reserve 2006 (13.9% ABV) -Walter Skoff Sauvignon Blanc Hochsultz 2006 -Walter Skoff Sauvignon Blanc Obegg Reserve 2006 -Walter Skoff Royal Sauvignon Blanc 2006 -Weingut Stadlmann Rotgipfler Tagelsteiner 2006 Thermenregion -Leth Zweigelt Gigama Reserve 2006 Wagram. -Kurt Angerer Riesling Donatus Reserve 2007 (13.5% ABV) -Nigl Riesling Senftenberger 2007 (13% ABV) -Aichinger Riesling Von den Terrassen 2006 (13% ABV) -Petra Unger Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben Oberfeld Reserve 2007 (13.5% ABV) -Allram Riesling Zobinger Reserve 2006 (14% ABV) -Zahel Cuvee Weiss Gemischter Satz Reserve 2006 (13.8%) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Weingut Loimer Riesling Terrassen 2006 (13.5% ABV) -Sattlerhof Chardonnay (Morillon) Barrique 2003 (14% ABV, wood aged) -Moorhof Unger Muskat Ottonel 2006 (12% ABV) -Stift Klosterneuberg Gewurztraminer Klassik 2006 (13% ABV) -Allram Gruner Veltliner Strasser Gaisberg 2006 (14%) -Leth Riesling Wagram Terrassen Reserve 2007 (13.5% ABV) -Felsner Riesling Rohrendorfer Gebling 2006 (13% ABV) The Food: basic blue, cheddar, Grana Padano, brie-clone, often served too cold, with crackers and breads. The Downside: a large room, but it was still not too crowded. The Upside: plenty of time to talk with principals. The Contact Person: Birgitta Samavarchian toronto@austriantrade.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 3PM to 8PM The Event: Select Client Tasting of Vinexx Portfolio. The Venue: Metropolitan Hotel, Chestnut Street The Target Audience: clients, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are at the LCBO, but a few were on Consignment. Some private orders were shown, such as the Calera Chardonnay 2006 Mount Harlan ($29.50), the Arcadian Gary’s Pinot Noir Monterey 2001 ($71), and the Calera Pinot Noir Petite Cuvee 2006 ($36). The Quote: “We have joined forces with the Torion Trading Company whose portfolio enhances and complements ours.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Jean Paul Paquet Chateau de Chaintre 2005 Burgundy ($15.95) -Canyon Oaks Chardonnay 2006 Central Valley California ($13.39 Consignment) -Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2006 VQA NOTL ($16.95) -Voyager Estates Cabernet-Merlot 2003 Margaret River ($32.95) -Mas de Bressades Cabernet Syrah 2006 Costieres de Nimes ($18.95, June Vintages) -Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Santa Cruz Mountains ($48.75) – my fave of the show ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chateau des Charmes Brut NV VQA NOTL ($22.95) -Les Domaines La Chablisienne Chablis 2004 Vieilles Vignes ($21.80) -Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2004 Okanogan ($19.95) -Graham Beck Dual Varietal (Shiraz/CabSauv) 2005 South Africa ($15.85) -White Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Napa ($32.95) -Chateau des Charmes Eqquleus 2005 VQA NOTL ($40) -Chateau Bournac 2003 Bordeaux ($25.90) -Bodegas Muga Reserva 2004 Rioja ($23.95) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Graham Beck Brut Rose 2005 South Africa ($21.95) -Hugh Hamilton Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 McLaren Vale ($13.95) -Errazuriz Ovalle Panul Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Lontue Chile (oak aged; $14.45 consignment) -Sherwood Estates Riesling 2007 New Zealand ($17.95) -Cline Cellars Syrah 2006 Sonoma ($12.85) -E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2004 ($16.20) -Errazuriz Ovalle Panul Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Reserve Colchagua ($14.45) -Hugh Hamilton Ratbag Merlot 2005 McLaren Vale ($17.95) -Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot 2004 VQA NOTL ($19.95) – declassified Eqquleus. The Food: great buffet of baked brie; blue cheese and mandarins; crudités and dips; sushi rolls; Mediterranean tarts; lamb lollipops. The Downside: there was plenty of room, but attendance was on the low side. The Upside: the food was excellent, and went well with the wine. The Contact Person: jdesautels@vinexx.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10AM to 3 PM The Event: the annual tasting of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre Chablis, this time the 2006 vintage, with Luc Bouchard attending to provide insight into the wines, appellations and vintage. The Venue: Royal Canadian Yacht Club, City Club House St. George Street. The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine media, beverage managers. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available by private order, usually in six bottle cartons. Many wines were not shown, but are available for ordering. We tasted almost four dozen wines, representing the crus, the wines already at the LCBO (General and Vintages), and some previous vintages. The Quote: “Bouchard has 185 acres of Premier Cru and 30 acres of Grand Cru. Fevre has 29 acres of Premier Cru and 34 acres of Grand Cru.” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bouchard Pere et Fils Meursault Les Clous 2006 ($61) - “ Beaune du Château 2006 Blanc ($50) - “ Meursault Genevrières 2006 ($114) - “ Perrières 2006 ($117) - “ Pommard 2006 ($75) – my fave on a QPR basis, value - “ Chambolle Musigny 2006 ($68) - “ Le Corton 2006 ($128) - William Fevre Chablis 2006 Les Preuses ($99) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne 2006 ($200) - “ Chevalier-Montrachet ($394) - “ Beaune-Teurons 2006 ($64) - “ Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2006 ($96) - “ Clos Vougeot 2006 ($210) - “ Nuits St Georges Les Cailles 2006 ($126) - “ Meursault Gouttes d’Or 2006 ($114) - William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume 2006 ($51) - “ Les Clos Grand Cru 2006 ($112) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - “ Gevrey Chambertin 2006 ($62) The Food: a good assortment of cheeses at room temperature, along with breads and crackers and fruit. The Downside: oh those prices… The Upside: there were great values amongst the lower price generic brands, at the LCBO. Check out the Chablis Champs Royaux 2006, well- rounded at $22, or the Bouchard Pere et Fils Pouilly-Fuisse at $27. The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 7. The Time and Date: Monday, April 21, 2008 6PM – 8PM The Event: Fifth Anniversary May “Festival of Chefs” Media Launch The Venue: Cheese Boutique The Target Audience: originally just the food and wine press. The Availability: gather 10 of Toronto’s finest chefs over the month of May, let them cook with Cheese Boutique ingredients, and pair those dishes with wine. Slated for the Saturdays and Sundays in May and June 1, noon to 4 PM, are Anthony Walsh (May 3), Bruce Woods (May 4), Jamie Kennedy (May 10), Patrick McMurray (May 11), Massimo Capra (May 17), Mike Steh (May 18), Ted Corrado (May 24), Jonathan Gushue (May 25), Keith Froggett (May 31), and Lino Collevecchio (June 1). The Quote: Michael Bonacini was the MC, Zoltan Szabo was the sommelier pouring. The Wines: superb wines came from Malivoire (Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir). The Food: samples of any cheese in the house, plus fresh sausages, cold cuts, smoked pork ribs, cheese cake, breads, et al. The Downside: what started out as a media launch became a free-for-all, with local residents and seniors, customers, and the like all coming. This made the rooms very, very crowded and very, very hot. The Upside: a great chance to try some local cheeses. The Contact Person: mail@cheeseboutique.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 8. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 Noon – 2 PM The Event: luncheon with Sacha Alexis Lichine, owner (with the Angostura group) of Chateau D’Esclans in Provence since 2006. The Venue: Rosewater Supper Club The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: wines are in the consignment system, or will be, through the agent Stephen Belyea (Wine Guy Imports). The Quote: “Sacha has created a new dimension to Provence rose, with a unique assemblage” The Wines: we began with a tasting of four roses, and then moved onto lunch and four other wines. This was the first vintage for the roses, and 2007 will be the first complete vintage with full control over the viticulture. * Chateau D’Esclans Whispering Angel 2006 ($26 licensee), 85% Grenache, 15% Rolle. Superb pale colour, just a touch of salmon. Light, good quality, slight caramel in the finish. From temperature controlled cellars (cold water hoses in barrels). * Chateau D’Esclans D’Esclans 2006 ($38 US), 39% of 80 year old Grenache vines, Cinsault, Rolle, Syrah. Southern exposure, character, longer finish. Partly vinified in 500 litre barrels. * Chateau D’Esclans Les Clans 2006 ($70 US) excellent flavour and length, floral and charming, needs food. 48% of 80 year old Grenache vines, Rolle, and Syrah. Seven months in wood. * Chateau D’Esclans Garrus ($125 licensee) was the highlight, with a superb floral nose. It did need more time to open up, and should not be served too cold. 70% Grenache from 80 year old vines, plus 30% Rolle. Eight months in wood. Other wines included Le Poule Blanc 2006 (13% ABV, Pays D’Oc, $14 licensee) a blend of 46% chardonnay, 36% sauvignon blanc, and 18% Viognier, a good crisp blend, slightly off-dry, twist top. The red mate was Le Coq Rouge 2006 (same price), at 40% syrah, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot, and 4% Grenache. He showed a Cote de Rhone Villages “Diabolo” 2005, a syrah-grenache blend ($24.49 licensee) and a sweetie, Bonnezeaux Les Melleresses 2002 ($46.99 licensee, 500 mL). The Food: beet salad, trout fillet with roast potatoes, pork tenderloin with grilled veggies, warm foie gras semi-savoury dessert with walnuts and apple slices in sweet pastry. The Downside: none, except we ran out of time. The Upside: great dessert to go with the sweet wine. The Contact Person: stephen@wineguyimports.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 9. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 2 PM to 8 PM The Event: portfolio tasting of Wine Guy Imports. The Venue: Rosewater Supper Club The Target Audience: wine media, restaurants, and private customers. The Availability/Catalogue: about 140 wines were available for sampling. All were consignment or private orders. I did not try them all. The complete portfolio is about 300 pages and contains detailed tasting notes and images for all the wines. It is a PDF, and you can get a copy from the agency via email (see below). The tasting catalogue that we had did cite the necessary details about each wine, including some background on the firms plus grape varieties used. Unfortunately, it was misbound. I did not taste all wines (note the review above for Sacha Lichine), and I pre-tasted one beer. The Quote: Zoltan Szabo said that the Deus Brut des Flandres 2006 which is made in Belgium but then shipped to Champagne for final MC treatment was a sparkling barley wine…”Magnificent” The Wines: prices are RETAIL. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Acrobat Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Mudgee $16.99 -Prince Hill Chardonnay (Australia) 2006 $23.99 -Mestres M Brut Nature Special Reserve 2004 (Spain) $32.99 -Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2003 $62.99 -Vecchia Storia Barbaresco Riserva 2000 $42.99 -Vecchia Storia Barolo 2001 $51.99 -Chateau Lamothe-Cissac Haut-Medoc Vieilles Vignes 2003 $39.99 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Acrobat Chardonnay 2006 Mudgee $16.99 -Acrobat Shiraz 2006 Mudgee $16.99 -Mestres El Cupatges Blends Barcelona (sparkler) $35.49 -La Fortuna Zeta Brunello di Montalcino 2003 $65.99 -Ca Di Tella Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Barrique 2004 $24.99 -Mastroleto Negroamaro 2006 Brindisi $18.99 -Desmonta Merlot Riserva 2004 Veronella $27.99 -Bixio Amarone 2004 $49.99 -Domaine Paul Kubler Grand Cru Zinnkoepfle Gewurztraminer 2005 Alsace $41.99 -Domaine Paul Kubler Pinot Gris K 2006 Alsace $27.99 -Chateau La Rivalerie Cuvee Majoral 2003 Bordeaux Premiers Cotes de Blaye $22.99 -Chateau Cantegrive Haut Monbadon Cotes de Castillon 2003 $21.49 -Chateau Lamothe-Cissac Haut-Medoc Vieilles Vignes 2004 $39.99 -Chateau Lamothe-Cissac Haut-Medoc Vieilles Vignes 2005 $40.99 *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -La Fortuna Zeta Vino Rosso Toscano 2006 $28.99 -Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2003 $61.99 -Ethos Valpolicella 2006 $13.99 -La Vieille Eglise Bordeaux 2006 $18.99 -Cuvee Webb Ellis Rouge 2005 Marmande $18.99 -Chateau La Rivalerie Grand Champ Rouge 2004 Bordeaux Premiers Cotes de Blaye $17.99 -Chateau Le Puy Tradition 2004 Bordeaux Cotes de Francs (biodynamique) $30.99 -Sacha Lichine Syrah 2005 $18.99 The Food: artisanal cheeses and breads. The Downside: there was a low turnout. The Upside: there was plenty of room to maneuver. The Contact Person: stephen@wineguyimports.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 10. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 12PM to 4 PM The Event: Somewhereness 2008 (old soils and new wines) – terroir in Ontario. The Venue: Coupe Space Event Gallery, Leslieville The Target Audience: wine trade in the afternoon, consumers at night. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available, mostly at the winery, sometimes at Vintages. The catalogue had full information on names and addresses, et al, plus a description of the winery and a listing of all the wines. The Quote: “It’s appropriate to be happening on Earth Day” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Flat Rock Seriously Twisted ($22.95 retail) -Flat Rock Gravity ($24.42 licensee) -Malivoire Moira Chardonnay 2005 ($30.01 licensee) -Malivoire Chardonnay Musque ($16.14 licensee) – great price -Stratus White 2005 ($35.88 licensee) -Stratus Red 2005 ($35.88 licensee) -Tawse ECHO’s White (Chardonnay) ($17.94 licensee) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Flat Rock Twisted ($16.95 Vintages) -Norman Hardie Melon de Bourgogne 2007 ($15.49 licensee) -Stratus Gewurztraminer 2006 ($26.09 licensee) -Tawse Robyn’s Block Estate Chardonnay 2005 ($39.15 licensee) The Food: from a variety of sources. Dairy Farmers of Canada contributed cheeses from Quebec (Magie de Madawaska, Tomme de Grosse Ile, and Le Ciel de Charlevoix bleu). There were nibbles from places such as About Thyme Bistro in Vineland, Stone Road Grille, Treadwell Farm, and the Carriage House. The Downside: the space was small but it was not crowded. I arrived late since I had to squeeze this event in between the two Wine Guy functions. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste quality Ontario wines. The Contact Person: www.somewhereness.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 11. The Time and Date: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 The Event: Wine tasting with Mario Bollag of Terralsole (Brunello) The Venue: Grange Wine Bar, Bloor West Village. The Target Audience: restaurants, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available from the agent, Vinoallegro Wine Imports. About a dozen wines were shown, five from Terralsole and the balance from Vinoallegro’s growing portfolio. The Quote: “Terralsole wines are sustainable and mostly organic”. Mario Bollag began the winery in 1992. Beginning in 1996 he has planted syrah, cabernet franc (he produces the only cabernet franc in Montalcino), and merlot. The merlot below is his first vintage from that varietal: he waited nine years for the grapes to come along. The Wines: licensee prices. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Terralsole Rosso di Montalcino 2005 $33 -Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino 2003 $75 -Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino 2001 $75 -Terralsole Coldoro Merlot 2005 $57 - Pomerolish -Terralsole Solista Syrah 2005 $71 – Rhonish ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Line Shack Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast $18.95 -Cantina Breganze Prosecco-Marzemino Rosato Veneto $17.95 -Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino 2002 $75 -Terralsole Pasticcio 2005 (55 cab franc/30 merlot/15 sangiovese) $77 supertuscan *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Prieure de Bebian Bebianito Rouge Languedoc $12.95 -Sobon Zinfandel Special Reserve Amador $14.25 -Cantina Breganze Pinot Nero 2006 Veneto $10 -Cantina Breganze Prosecco Veneto $14.35 The Food: artisanal cheese platter The Downside: light attendance The Upside: more time to talk with Mario. The Contact Person: Rebecca@vinoallegro.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 12. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 24, 2008 10AM to 6PM The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord). The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn The Target Audience: wine agents, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are available in Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta. Most of the wines were French, and there were sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. There was one producer from Spain. The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. These wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. Here were my faves, regardless of price: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Champagne Moutardier Carte D’Or NV ($44 in Alberta), 85% pinot meunier for a goutte anglaise. -Champagne Moutardier 2002 $52 80% pinot meunier -Greiner-Schleret & Fils Pinot Blanc 2001 FOB 5.5 euros -Albert Klee Pinot Gris 2006 Vieille Vignes -Albert Klee Gewurztraminer Hinterberg 2005 -Hubert Reyser Gewurztraminer Zahlberg 2006 – gold medalist -Hubert Reyser Pinot Gris 2004 Cuvee Personelle -Roger Raimbault Sancerre 2006 Vieille Vignes FOB 8 euros -Domaine Les Chenes Gigondas 2005 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Champagne Moutardier Cuvee Rose $52 -Champagne Moutardier Selection Brut (mostly 2002) $60 -Greiner-Schleret & Fils Pinot Gris 2006 FOB 5.5 euros -Roger Raimbault Sancerre 2007 $29 -Chateau Les Bertrands 2005 Cotes de Blaye Vieille Vignes – gold medal FOB 2.85 euros -Chateau Les Bertrands 2005 Cotes de Blaye Cuvee Prestige – gold medal FOB 3.75 euros -Gregoire Bourgueil 2005 Domaine des Geslets – medal winner -Chateau Cardonna Lahourcale 2004 Medoc -Domaine Les Chenes Gigondas 2006 -Domaine Jo Pithon Anjou Les Blanches Bergeres 2006 – barrel fermented and aged FOB 8 euros -Domaine Jo Pithon Anjou Les Bonnes Blanches 2005 – barrel fermented and aged FOB 10 euros -Domaine Jo Pithon Anjou Cabernets 2006 – 50/50 blend FOB 7.2 euros The Food: none. The Downside: not enough space to sprawl out and write notes. No paper was furnished, so I used some 3 by 5 cards. The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here. The Contact Person: for prices, etc, check with Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 13. The Time and Date: Monday, April 28, 2008 11 AM to 2 PM The Event: a seminar on “certifiably green with envy” with Paul Dolan, Mendocino Wine Company (first carbon-neutral winery in the USA) and Ann Thrupp, manager of sustainability for Fetzer/Bonterra. This was followed by a sparkling wine reception, and then a lunch with wines and speaker Paul Dolan again. Dolan reiterated his seminar, emphasizing the E3 method of economics, environment, and equality. The Venue: Fairmont Royal York The Target Audience: wine press, agents, restaurateurs. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines tasted this AM were available. The Quote: “This is quite a show – a seminar, a sparkling wine reception, a lunch!” The Wines: at the seminar, we had six wines that were either “sustainable” or “organic” or both. At the sparkler show, we had wines from Gloria Ferrer and Domaine Chandon. At the lunch, we had wines from different agents. At my table there was Stonehedge (agents: Barrique), Rutherford Wine Company (agent: Majestic), and Fleur de California (agent: H.H. Drung). **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Paul Dolan Deep Red 2004 $42.95 Calibrium -Stonehedge Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2003 -Domaine Chandon Etoile Brut ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $19.95GL -Fetzer Chardonnay 2006 $13.95GL -Parducci Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $13.95 Calibrium -Parducci Chardonnay 2006 $13.95 Calibrium -Paul Dolan Zinfandel 2005 $21.95 Calibrium -Stonehedge Terroir Select Malbec 2006 -Rutherford Red Rhiannon Napa 2005 $24.95 -Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005 $19.95 -Round Hill Chardonnay 2006 -Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs -Domaine Chandon Brut Classic -Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Sonoma *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fleur de California Pinot Noir 2006 $21.95 -Fleur de California Petit Syrah 2006 North Coast $18.95 The Food: California Walnut Commission sponsored the sparkler reception with walnut coated meats and cheeses (blue and goat), including a great filet mignon spoon. At the luncheon, David Garcelon, Executive Chef of the Fairmont Royal York, gave us a smoked trout and smoked salmon salad, a Rowe Farms beef tenderloin on braised short rib ravioli, and some Ontario artisanal cheeses such as Comfort Cream, Niagara Gold, and Back Forty Highland Blue. The Downside: we had all the speeches at once, before the food, and it might have been better to have had a different emphasis from the speaker since we had just seen him at the seminar. The Upside: the seminar was instructive – let’s do it again. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 14. The Time and Date: Monday, April 28, 2008 2PM to 5 PM The Event: 2008 California Wine Fair The Venue: Fairmont Royal York The Target Audience: wine press, wine trade. The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue contained good information on names and addresses, wines served, and the like. Prices would have been useful. The Quote: “This is the 28th annual tour of the CWF. About 100 wineries were here, with about 400 wines to pour. The Wines: I did not try any wines I had had at the media preview or earlier in the day. Agent’s name is after the wine. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Artesa Chardonnay Carneros 2006 $22.95 July 19 Vintages -Artesa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2004 $42 Aug 16 Vintages -Dolce Estate Bottled Late Harvest Napa 2004 (Trilogy) -Far Niente Estate Bottled Chardonnay Napa 2006 (Trilogy) -Far Niente Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Napa 2005 (Trilogy) -Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2003 $62 (Lifford) -Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2005 (The Vine) -Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2006 (Lorac) -Miner Family Chardonnay Napa Valley 2006 (Barrique) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Leaping Lizard Chardonnay 2006 Napa $17.95 Vintages July 19 -Arrowood Merlot Sonoma 2004 (Gibson) -Benziger Family Chardonnay Carneros (Lifford) -Cartlidge & Browne Chardonnay 2006 (B & W) -Clos du Bois Chardonnay North Coast 2006 (Diamond Estates) -Clos LaChance Ruby Throated Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $17.95 (Maxxium) -DeLoach Chardonnay Russian River 2006 (Select) -Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2002 (Kylix) -Geyser Peak Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2005 (Maxxium) -Greg Norman California Estates Chardonnay Santa Barbara 2005 (Foster’s) -Heitz Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Lifford) -Heitz Chardonnay Napa 2006 (Lifford) -JanKris Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2005 $16.95 (Merchant Vintner) -Marimar Don Miguel Chardonnay Russian River 2006 (Pacific Wine & Spirits) -Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Napa 2005 (Churchill Cellars) -Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay 2006 (Mark Anthony) -Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2005 $43.15 (Kylix) -Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon SOLO Stag’s Leap District 2005 $72.45 (Kylix) -St.Francis Chardonnay Sonoma (Rogers) -Stags’ Leap Chardonnay Napa 2006 (Foster’s) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Concannon Chardonnay 2006 (Mark Anthony) -JanKris Estate Divinity White Paso Robles 2006 $16.95 (Merchant Vintner) -Newton Chardonnay Napa/Sonoma 2005 (Charton-Hobbs) -Rodney Strong Sonoma Vineyards Chardonnay 2006 (Mark Anthony) -Rosenthal Chardonnay Malibu-Newton Canyon 2006 (Trilogy) The Food: breads, cheeses, pates, fruit. The Downside: the trade show got crowded in a hurry – everybody made a beeline for Far Niente and Heitz. And why not? The Upside: a good variety of wines were available for sampling. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 15. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 4PM to 6 PM The Event: Media launch for the 2nd Annual Niagara Wine Weekend and Auction (NWA), June 13 to 15 (www.niagarawineauction.com) The Venue: Jump Cafe The Target Audience: media The Availability/Catalogue: we tried a variety of wines that will be available over the NWA weekend, some to be auctioned off. The Quote: John Peller of Andrew Peller Ltd. spoke to the event, a fundraiser for Sickkids Foundation and St. Catharines General Hospital. The Wines: we had a chance to sample last year’s Barrel Auction wines plus a variety of Vincor and Peller products. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Thirty Bench Small Lot Benchmark Red 2005 $60 -Trius White 2006 $18.95 -Hillebrand Showcase Chardonnay Mori Vineyard Barrel #6038 Radoux French Puncheon 2006 Four Mile Creek Wild Yeast Ferment $35 -Inniskillin Chardonnay Montague 2005 ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Andrew Peller Signature Cabernet Franc Icewine 2006 $90 -Jackson Triggs Delaine Vineyard Riesling 2005 -Inniskillin Pinot Noir Founders -Hillebrand Pinot Noir -Jackson Triggs Delaine Vineyard Carnet-Merlot Meritage -Dan Aykroyd Signature Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -Dan Aykroyd Signature Reserve Vidal Icewine 2005 (top wine at 2008 Ontario Wine Awards, 94.5 points) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Peller Estates Private Reserve Pinot Gris 2006 $16.95 The Food: the food came from Michael Bonacini’s and Jason Parsons’ creations. They were matched to a variety of wines, emphasizing aromatics (roasted miso black cod, fresh soybeans and fiddleheads from Northern Ontario), Burgundian terroir (truffle sauced ricotta gnocchi), big reds (boneless quail wrapped in bacon with mushroom risotto), and icewine (Riopelle cheese, honey and Niagara walnuts). The Downside: it was excessively crowded, making it exceedingly difficult to access the wines for tasting. Surprisingly, I had no trouble getting to the food. Peller was the only company which furnished tasting tech sheets for their wines. The Upside: a great chance to preview the food at the weekend, and to match the wines with the food – even roaming beyond the appropriate food stations to get other matches. The Contact Person: kholmes@hccink.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 16. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 6PM to 8 PM The Event: Peninsula Ridge new releases The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve The Target Audience: wine media, private customers. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, mostly through the winery, but some are also at the LCBO The Quote: “Fabulous cheeses that pair well with the wines. First rate job!” The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $14.75 LCBO (better than 2006) -Peninsula Ridge Riesling 2007 $15.95 400 cases -Peninsula Ridge Fume Blanc 2006 $26.95 -Peninsula Ridge Reserve Chardonnay 2004 Beal Vineyards $24.95 -Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc AJ Lepp Vineyards 2007 $18.95 -Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2002 $39.95 OWA Gold -Peninsula Ridge Arcanum 2002 $39.95 Bordeaux blend with syrah. ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $14.75 LCBO -Peninsula Ridge Gewurztraminer 2007 $22 100 cases -Peninsula Ridge Reserve Inox Chardonnay 2006 Dubois Vineyards $19.95 -Peninsula Ridge Reserve Viognier 2006 $39.95 -Peninsula Ridge Syrah Reserve 2006 $29.95 -Peninsula Ridge Vintner’s Private Reserve Merlot 2002 $99.95 -Peninsula Ridge Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002 $39.95 -Peninsula Ridge Merlot Reserve 2002 $39.95 Cuvee 2006 Best Merlot The Food: cheeses from their onsite store – Chevre Noir (PQ goat’s milk, very firm, worth every penny of $80 a kilo), Sainte Maure (PQ unpasteurized goat), and La Sauvagine (PQ champ of the 2006 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix). There were notes on what wines to try with what cheeses. The Downside: you really cannot taste wines and cheeses together without swallowing, and given the great choices of wines available, I had to. No hardship, since I travel by public transit. The Upside: a chance to chat with owners and JP Colas the winemaker. The Contact Person: www.peninsularidge.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MARCH 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1.Peller Estates Private Reserve Riesling 2006 ($15.95 at Vineyard Estates stores): light lemons, but ripe dryish fruit, apples, pears. 12% ABV. A good example of an Ontario Riesling. Silver winner at 2008 Riesling du Monde competition. 2.Peller Estates Private Reserve Gamay Noir 2006 ($18.95 Vineyard Estates stores): peppery, close black fruit, dense, needing time. From one block in their vineyard, 9 months in both US and French oak (50/50). Morgon anyone? 3.Mission Hill Select Lot Collection SLC Syrah 2004 Okanagan (+936582, Consignment, $39.95): tight, but promising. At this point, much m=better with food or cheese pairing. Lots of black fruit and chocolate but of the bitter kind. Intense concentration and it will repay cellaring. 4.Mission Hill Select Lot Collection SLC Merlot 2004 Okanagan (+935857, Consignment, $39.95): approachably soft and delicate, emphasizing some red fruits and even figs. Needs some time to resolve for sipping, but ready to roll now with food. 5.Mission Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 Okanagan (+545012, Vintages, $24.95) is not a typical pinot noir; it feels like California with its lushness. Black cherries and black plums, some off-dry tones on the mid-palate, and vanilla residual from oaking. 1. The Time and Date: Monday, March 3, 2008 11AM to 2:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Maison Champy burgundies, conducted by Dimitri Bazas, chief winemaker. The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square, Premium Tasting Room. The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: the six wines tasted will be available through Vintages beginning this fall and into 2009 winter. The Quote: “By 1990, the house had “died”. Pierre Muergey took it over, and Bazas joined him in 1999, promoting quality at no expense. We are now moving towards organic production.” The Wines: The company produces about 34,000 cases in total. They make about 50 different wines, ranging from Aligote and Passe Tout Grains through Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze. The Estate wines in Beaune are derived from 43 acres, and support 23 different wines (one-third chardonnay). Beaune provides 30% of their total production. * Bourgogne Signature Chardonnay 2006: bright apples and lemons, good oaking flavours, a real winner at $19.95 retail. * Pernand-Vergelesses White 2006: minerals, citrus and apple with vanilla, defined oak treatment, a class act, great persistence and food abilities. $29.95. * Beaune Les Reversées White 2006: apple, Burgundian elegance, but some light pear flavours.. Balanced for food. $36.95 * Corton Charlemange 2006: minerals and spice, apple and butterscotch bouquet, lemons. Full and ripe, especially long length. $126 * Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006: light cherry, and some raspberry flavours, some intensity on the finish. $19.95. * Pommard 1er Cru Grands Epenots 2006 : minerals again, raspberry tones, lush and plush mouth feel, dense, intense, some cherries, flavours are there. $74. The Food: cheeses and cold cuts. The Downside: I arrived late after a medical appointment, and thus missed most of the background material. The Upside: I had a personally conducted wine tasting! The Contact Person: info@hhdimports.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 2. The Time and Date: Sunday, March 2, 2008 10AM to 4PM The Event: HOSTEX and the Canadian Food and Beverage Show The Venue: Direct Energy Centre, Exhibition Grounds The Target Audience: restaurants, hotels, pubs, and the like. The Availability/Catalogue: lists of exhibitors where deals can be made. The Quote: “There are certainly a lot of obese people here, not only the customers, but also the supplier. There is nothing scarier than seeing one fatty talk to another fatty about fatty stuff. Ka-chung...” The Wines: I had expected more wineries to be exhibiting, based on past attendance. There used to be a turn out of Ontario and fruit wineries, but no more. There were pleasant apple products from Nova Scotia (Stutz Cider and Grand Pre Apple Dessert wine), but little else. A handful of breweries (Pilsen Urquell, Mill Street) complete the picture. BUT Robert Ketchin repping the New York Wine and Grape Foundation (Uncork New York!) was pouring a variety of vinifera, fruit wines, and kosher wines, assisted by the Crouches (Sue and Fred). The vinifera will be available at Vintages in Fall 2008. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes ($21.50, Hobbs & Co) -Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes ($23.50, John Hanna & Sons) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Raphael Merlot 2001 Long Island ($42.95, John Hanna & Sons) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Sheldrake Point Chardonnay 2006 Long Island ($15.85, Classique Imports) -Brotherhood Pinot Noir Hudson River ($18.75, Classique Imports). The Food: walkaround fast food, a little goes a long way The Downside: too few wineries for me. The Upside: a chance to catch up on what the organic people are trying to do vis-a-vis standard restaurants and pubs. The Contact Person: for New York, jharricks@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5PM to 8 PM. The Event: California Wine Fair Toronto Media Preview Tasting. The Venue: Far Niente Board Room The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines were to be shown at the Fair in Toronto, but not all of the wines would be available for sale through the LCBO systems of General, Consignment, Vintages, Classics, or Private. Some were just plain “n/a” – except at the Fair. The Quote: “The night time meeting seemed to bring out twice as many media as in previous years. I only hope their palates had remained as good as when the tasting used to be at 11AM.” The Wines: there were flights of Sauvignon Blanc (6 wines), Chardonnay (19), Pinot Noir (9), Zinfandel (8), Cabernet Sauvignon (14), Blends, mostly Meritage type (7), and six others, which included only TWO Merlot. This was the “Sideways effect”... **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2006 Livermore $16.05 General List (PMA Canada) -Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 Sonoma $35 Consignment (Grape Expectations) -La Crema Chardonnay 2006 Russian River $36.95 Vintages (Diamond Estates) -Tandem Winery Van de Kamp Pinot Noir 2005 $54.95 Private (Kylix) -Michael-David 7 Deadly Zins Old Vine Zinfandel 2006 Lodi $24.95 Vintages (Dionysus) -Peju Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2004 $59.95 Consignment (Le Sommelier) -Rodney Strong Symmetry 2004 $66.95 Vintages (Mark Anthony) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Vina Robles Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Jardine $19.75 Consignment (Glen-Ward Wines) -Cuvaison Chardonnay Carneros 2006 $29.95 Vintages (Prevedello & Mathews) -Clos du Val Chardonnay 2006 Carneros N/A -Testarossa Palazzio Pinot Noir 2006 $54.35 May Vintages (B & W) -Alexander Valley Vineyards Sin Zinfandel 2006 $20US Private (Small Winemakers Collection) -Nichols Silver Fox Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 California $22.95 Private (Le Sommelier) -Merryvale Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa $36.95 Consignment (DuChasse) -Ridgeline Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Alexander Valley $39.95 Private (Kylix) -Miner Family Oracle 2003 Napa $77.95 Consignment (Barrique) -Terlato Family Syrah Dry Creek 2004 $42.25 N/A -Duckhorn Merlot 2005 Napa N/A *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay 2006 Arroyo Seco $16.80 General List (Barrique Wine Imports) -Schug Carneros Pinot Noir 2006 Sonoma $31.95 Consignment (Lifford) -Lucus & Lewellen Valley View Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Santa Barbara County $18.65 N/A -Artesa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Napa $41.95 August Vintages (Woodman) -Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Napa $139.95 Sept Vintages (Churchill Cellars) The Food: scrumptious appetizers and tapas, including lamb lollipops, grilled shrimp, seared tuna and shrimp chips, short rib tarts, goat cheese tarts. But alas, no cheese. The Downside: I find that I am not as sharply focused at night, particularly for a tasting with no food until the end. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste 70 California wines – 70 out of 400 at the show that I will NOT have to re-taste. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 2:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: Portfolio tasting of Hobbs & Co. and Airen Imports, with a side trip through a few Glen-Ward Wines. The Venue: Spoke Club The Target Audience: restaurateurs and wine media, private clients (plus more in the evening) The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available through Consignment, Vintages, or by Private Order. The catalogue was nicely laid out, with tasting notes, prices, grapes, etc. The wines were poured in the order of their catalogue listing. There were signs over the heads of the pourers to indicate country of origin. And Canada (with Featherstone Estate) was listed as first up...Kudos to the catalogue producers for putting everything in that I could possibly want (will scratch and sniff samples be next?) Each outfit had an expanded list of wines available but not shown today. 59 nines were shown in all. The Quote: “There are some winemakers here, in from France and Australia as well as Niagara, and there are some export managers here as well”. The Wines: **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Estampa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere/Petit Verdot 2006 Chile $14.95 Airen (my fave red of the afternoon) -Dusted Valley Vintners Stomp! Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Washington State (Bordeaux blend) $22.83 Glen-Ward -Clairault Wines Cabernet/Merlot 2004 Margaret River $21.86 Hobbs -Warwick Wine Estate Trilogy 2005 Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $39.79 Hobbs -Domaine Francois Lichtle Gewurztraminer 2006 Alsace $20.99est Hobbs -Chateau Balestard la Tonnelle Grand Cru Classe 1995 St.Emilion $61.91 Hobbs ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Conde de Caralt Brut N/V Spain $16.25 Airen -Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 California $19.45 Airen -39 Degrees Sauvignon Blanc 2006 California $16.95 Airen -39 Degrees Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Lake County $16.95 Airen -Governors Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Marlborough NZ $20.38 Hobbs -Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Riesling 2004 New South Wales $19.99 Hobbs -Landskroon Merlot 2005 Paarl South Africa $17.79 Hobbs -Bodegas Barreda Torre de Barreda Amigos 2002 Toledo Spain $21.46 Hobbs -Domaine Thibert Pouilly Fuisse Vieilles Vignes 2006 $34.42 Hobbs -Chateau Grand Moulin Vieilles Vignes 2004 Corbieres $20.41 Hobbs -Cantine di Monteforte Ponte Pietra Merlot/Corvina 2006 $11.94 Hobbs -Alpha Zeta “A” Amarone della Valpolicella 2003 $53.15 (with cabernet sauvignon, a ripe vintage, and chocolate tones) Hobbs *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -David Traeger Verdelho 2006 Australia $19.95 Airen -Featherstone Estate Old Vines Riesling 2007 Niagara $18.70 Hobbs -Featherstone Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Niagara $18.70 Hobbs -Domaine Francois Lichtle Pinot Blanc 2005 Alsace $18.25 Hobbs -Chateau Gaudrelle Methode Traditional Brut 2005 Vouvray $26.28 Hobbs -Friulvini Pinot Grigio 2006 Friuli-Venezia $11.28 Hobbs The Food: cheeses (Niagara Gold, Parmigiano Reggiano, and French Comte), fresh fruit including figs, bread and crackers, bottled water. The Downside: a terribly blustery day which I hope did not impede people from attending. The Upside: a terrific and quiet location, lots of elbow space, some fine wines. The Contact Person: all information and orders can be placed through www.hobbswines.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 5. The Time and Date: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:30 AM to 1 PM The Event: the monthly meeting of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. This month we tasted Spanish wines. The Venue: LCBO Event Kitchen, Scrivener Square The Target Audience: WWCC members. The Availability/Catalogue: tastings were based on submission to Sadie Darby who had put out a call for product samples. For the most part, the wines are GL, with some Vintages and even some upcoming Vintages releases. The Wines: 25 wines were tasted, and we wished that more products had been submitted. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Torres Mas La Plana 2003 (Vintages, $45(Vintages, $45) ***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Castillo de Almasa Reserva 2004 (+649749, $19.60 MAGNUM GL) – best value wine -Mad Dogs and Englishmen Jumilla 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Monastrell (+669135, $13.95 GL) -Codorniu Pinot Noir Brut NV (+665372, $16.85 Vintages) -Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso Medium Dry (+35204, $12.85 Vintages late summer) *** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Rene Barbier White (+332767, $9.40 GL) -Rene Barbier Tempranillo-Merlot (+640193, $9.40 GL) The Food: bread and water The Upside: exposure to new and some old Spanish listings. The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 6. The Time and Date: Friday, March 28, 2008 2 PM to 3:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Chateau Gilette Sauternes, with present winemaker and owner Julie Gonet-Medeville. Her grandfather began to company 70 years ago. He could not afford oak barrels during the Depression, so he chose to age his wines in concrete vats. He discovered the wines matured more evenly than in wood, and that they developed more complex bouquet and flavours than previous vintages aged in wood. The vats allow the wines to breathe very slowly over 20 years. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina. The Target Audience: wine media, private clients and restaurants. The Availability/Catalogue: all are available at Vintages or from Le Sommelier. The Quote: “Look sharp, be sharp”. The Wines: Chateau Gilette does not sell its wines until they have been aged for at least 15 to 20 years. This is capital intensive. I last tasted these wines in September 2005. **** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): This is the order in which they were presented - -Chateau Gilette 1954 Demi-Sec (semi-sweet, good acidity, married well with pates) -Chateau Gilette 1985 Creme de Tete (sweet, luscious botrytis-affected, of course, tastes young!) -Chateau Gilette 1982 Creme de Tete (a little riper) -Chateau Gilette 1983 Creme de Tete (starting to show age) -Chateau Gilette 1979 Creme de Tete (nice golden colour, really old in flavours, my fave of the tasting) The Food: great cheeses (Pecorino Toscano, P. Etonki, P. Rustica, Piave Vecchio, Shropshire Blue, Stiton, Manchego, Prima Donna, etc.) and at least three different pates, plus terrines of rabbit and duck, and real foie gras. Fruits, berries, great crackers and breads. The Downside: the Reserve is an armed fortress (for which wine collectors are grateful), and I really don’t like asking people to assist me on my way out. I’m a control phreak... The Upside: it was a small and cosy room, allowing for several people to chat with Julie at the same time. The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR FEBRUARY 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1.Fresita from Vina Casal de Gorschs ($13.85 General, +56697): an innovative white sparkler from Chile, which has pulp from Patagonian hand-picked strawberries. 8% ABV, and labeled 100% natural with no added component parts. A lovely wine for simple quaffing, or with desserts, especially with a loved one. Off-dry finish, not too sweet on the mid-palate, but the fruit shines through. An alternative buy might be the four pack of 187.5mL for only $14.85 (a buck more, +56705). This way you can ration it... 2.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2006 (Clone 809) Niagara on the Lake VQA ($16.95, +640516 Vintages) comes from the pioneering Paul Bosc. Very intense, concentrated aromatics, late summery blossoms, stainless steel. Muscat grape character in spades, long finish. 13% ABV, but also a sipper. 3.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2004 Paul Bosc Estate St. David’s Bench VQA ($19.95 winery), is a steal because of its Burgundian heritage and taste. Low yields, gold medal, BF in French oak, sur lie one year, lots of lemon and melons, oak, butter, cream freshness, plus vanilla. Sounds like a recipe for success. Ready now after 3.5 years. 4. and 5. Wild Horse Canyon Merlot 2006 (+54411, $12.95 Vintages Essentials) and Wild Horse Canyon Shiraz 2006 (+54429, $12.95 Vintages Essentials) join the Wild Horse Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc duo. These wines are sourced from both BC and the US (California and Washington State). Everything is balanced and fruit-forward, even a bit plush and voluptuous. The Merlot has better definition than the Shiraz. Both wines are quaffers (I had them with olive fougasse) at 13.5% ABV. 6. Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Reserve (+57430, $21.95 Vintages) still shows its youthfulness with a certain ripeness and dense character. Not quite the gooseberry-cat’s pee of New Zealand, but drier than many California versions. 7. Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2005 SLC (Select Lot Collection) ($29.95, +68361 Consignment) is a real winner, in a straight-ahead Graves style with its new French oak treatment. Long, full finish, crisp enough for that seafood or soup. 8. Mission Hill Chardonnay 2005 Reserve (+545004, $22.15 Vintages Essentials) has that Pacific Rim lushness of tropical fruits. Not as heavily oaked as in the past, but what is there is newly toasted. 1. The Time and Date: Saturday, February 9, 2008. 1 PM to 4 PM The Event: Return to Terroir organic/biodynamic wine tasting, trade component. The group was founded by Nicholas Joly, who also presented a seminar on the urgent need for biodynamics. This was part of a world- wide tour, which included Vancouver, Montreal, Los Angeles, Oslo, Madrid, Düsseldorf, Verona, Bordeaux and Tokyo. The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine trade, sommeliers, importers, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: it was a bit of a curate’s egg – some parts of the show were excellent; others were inconvenient and time- consuming. The catalogue was extensive, with notes on each winery, with names of principals, addresses, etc. But no wines were listed (and of course, no terms of availability, no vintage years, no prices, etc.). It was a drag to have to write it all down. I may have skipped the vintage years since just about everything was recent. I certainly skipped recording the ABV since that figure could be anywhere on the label and I was not about to go scrounging – lack of time. The other drawbacks on the catalogue: the tables were numbered, but the number was not the same as the page number in the book! Also, what passed for page numbers in the book was white on black in small typeface. The room was darkish, so it was hard to see even at the best of times. I was not alone with this concern... We had three hours for the show, but we were not told that we could have stayed longer — and tasted right through to 8 PM. Consequently, I did not get around to tasting everything. Kudos to The Merchant Vintner (Zind-Humbrecht) for having the best walkaway notes: extensive background to the four wines, prices, availability, vintages, etc. Other well-placed notes came from Frog’s Leap, Benziger, Cascina degli Ulivi, and Albet i Noya (Vinexx). I was disappointed that no wines from Ontario, PQ or BC were displayed, nor were there any wines from South Africa and Chile. But I guess these countries’ wineries are not members of the group? This was a group function, not an organic/biodynamic roundup trade show. You had to be a member of the group to exhibit. The Quote: from a consumer in the evening, “Is this wine organic?” Duh... The Wines (not in any order): **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Domaine Cazes 2005 Ego Languedoc-Roussillion ($15 Vintages Fall) - Domaine Cazes 2005 Alter Languedoc-Roussillion (P.O) - Montirius Vacqueyras Le Clos 2005 ($29.95, Vintages Oct 2008) - Tres Sabores Porque? No? 2004 Napa ($30) - Tres Sabores Zinfandel 2004 Rutherford ($39) - Tres Sabores Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Napa ($60) - Descendientes de J. Palacios Villa de Corullon 2005 Bierzo Spain ($63, Woodman) - Descendientes de J. Palacios Las Lama 2005 Bierzo Spain ($175, Woodman) - Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi 2005 Priorat ($89, Woodman) - Domaine Josmeyer Riesling 2001 Alsace ($45) - Champagne Fleury Brut NV ($80) - Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Grand Cru 2004 ($56.95) - Albet i Noya Xarel-Lo Classic 2007 Penedes ($15, P.O. Vinexx) - Compania de Vinos Telmos Rodriguez Altos de Lanzaga 2004 Rioja Alavesa ($92) - Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Gueberschwihr ($39.65, +686246, also in half bottles) – Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim ($43.60, +993352) – Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain ($89.25, +958918) – Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendage Tardive ($57, +70250 the 375ml) - Domaine Hauvette Les Baux Rouge 2004 Provence ($45) *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Albet i Noya La Milana 2005 Penedes ($29, P.O. Vinexx) - Montirius Gigondas 2005 Terre des Aines ($34.95, Diamond Estates) - Montirius Garrigues 2005 ($24.95, Diamond Estates) - Castagna Vineyard Genesis Syrah 2004 ($94.20, +53298) - Castagna Vineyard Genesis Syrah 2005 ($99) - Castagna Vineyard Un Segreto Sangiovese/Syrah ($110) - Domaine Marcel Diess Burg 2004 Alsace ($63) - Domaine Marcel Diess Altenberg de Bergheim 2004 ($93) - Domaine Marcel Diess Mambourg 2004 ($109) - Chateau Romanin La Chapelle Romanin 2004 Provence ($21) - Domaine du Traginer Cuvee Capates 2004 Languedoc-Roussillion ($70, Lexcellent) - Compania de Vinos Telmos Rodriguez Matallana Tempranillo 2004 Ribera del Duero ($115) - Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Rutherford ($99) - Domaine du Coulet Cornas 2006 Billes Roires (?) - Domaine de Villeneuve Les Vieilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du Pape 2005 ($42.70 licensees, Small Winemakers Collection) The Food: the food stations were grouped together, except for one. They were all excellent, with food and service from a variety of organic places about Toronto: The Healthy Butcher (beef appetizers), Beretta Farms (ham and chicken open face sandwiches), About Cheese-Provincial Fine Foods (four raw cow milk cheeses, two of them organic), JK Restaurants (soup), and Czechoski (sausages). The Downside: the catalogue had no wines listed. The Upside: it was a pretty fair turnout for a trade show on a Saturday. Many people were actually well-dressed in the afternoon. The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87 (it would have been higher with a better catalogue – this score is, after all, all about “effectiveness”). 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 11AM to 2 PM The Event: Cuvee Tasting of top scoring wines submitted to Cuvee from each participating winery. The Venue: BMO Strathcona Room, 68th Floor The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the respective winery. Some wines may be available through Vintages. The Quote: “Corks still dominate as closures go, but it was gratifying to see that there were very few corked wines.” The Wines: There were about 60 wines, three bottles of each. The tasting also included seven wines from past award winners in celebration of the 20th Anniversary of Cuvee. They had all aged very well. The best of these were Cave Spring Off Dry Riesling 2003, Lakeview Cellars Chardonnay Reserve Vinc Vineyard 2000, and the Pillitteri Estates Cabernet Franc Family Reserve 2002 (en magnum). **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Cave Spring Gewurztraminer 2006 $19.95 -Chateau des Charmes Equuleus (50%CS/25%CF/25%M) $40 -Creekside Estate Reserve Meritage 2004 (55%CS/45%M) $34 -Featherstone Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2007 $18.95 -Fielding Estate Meritage Reserve 2005 (58%CS/24%CF/18%M) $35 -Hillebrand Trius White 2006 (33%Ge/29%R/27%PG/11%Ch) $18.95 -Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 $18.30 -Niagara College Teaching Winery Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006 $19.15 ++V-A-L-U-E++ -Peninsula Ridge Fume Blanc 2006 $26.95 -Royal DeMaria Muscat Ottonel Icewine 2004 $279.95 -Stoney Ridge Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Franc 2004 $49.95 -13th Street Funk Blanc de Noir 2000 [sparkler] $40 -30 Bench Benchmark Red 2005 (50%CS/30%M/20%CF) $60 *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Alvento Winery Elige 2005 (72%CS/28%CF) $29.80 -Birchwood Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (85.5%CS/14.5%Zweigelt) $12.65 -Colio Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $15.95 ++VALUE++ -Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling 2006 $19.95 -Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling 2006 $14.95 -Hernder Estate Riesling 2006 $10.95 ++VALUE++ -Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Proprietor’s Grand Reserve White Meritage 2006 (87%SB/13%Se) $24.55 -Lailey Vineyard Old Vine Chardonnay Niagara River 2006 $29.95 -Maleta Estate Meritage 2005 (60%CF/40%CS) $29.95 -Mike Weir Estate Cabernet Shiraz 2005 (75%CS/25%Sh) $17.95 -Mountain Road Unoaked Chardonnay 2005 $14.95 ++VALUE++ -Peller Estates Signature Series Ice Cuvee Rose NV [sparkler] (55%Ch/35%PN/10%CF, with Vidal Icewine as dosage) $35 -Stonechurch Riesling Dry 2006 (90%R/8%Ge/2%Muscadet) $12.95 The Food: upscale sandwiches, salads, grilled veggies, cookies and tarts, coffees. The Downside: once again, I got lost finding the right bank of elevators. The Upside: a great chance to taste some potentially award-winning Cuvee wines and possible Ontario Wine Award winners. The Contact Person: erin@mitchellwestlake.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday, February 14, 2008 5PM to 7PM The Event: a tasting of a glass of Ayala Rose Majeur Champagne NV, repped by John Hanna and Sons The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve Tasting Room, King and Spadina The Target Audience: clients and selected wine media. The Quote: From the agent, “We’ve also got some other wines here just in case some people don’t like Champagne”. These people need to be outed...and then put out! The Wines: -Ayala Rose Majeur Champagne NV, repped by John Hanna and Sons, is available through Vintages at $61.95 retail: a low dosage promotes a brut dry finish, owned by Bollinger which means more time on the lees and more Pinot Noir in the blend. Since Bollinger is my fave champagne, then this must be my second fave. But a first-rate sparkler, and a nice Valentine treat from Hanna. -Other wines included a Clarmont Crozes Hermitage 2004 Blanc (off-dry succulence), a Saxenburg Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Stellenbosch (dense but rich), plus two wines from Southbrook Vineyards by winemaker Ann Sperling not yet released (coming in May with the soft opening of the winery: Triomphe Chardonnay 2006 at $22 [light nose, good Burgundian character, some wood to balance out later] and Triomphe Syrah 2006 at $25 [light Rhone style, with 6%CF added]). The Food: cheese platters. The Downside: to get into the Fine Wine Reserve is like accessing Smokey Joe’s Cafe, The Upside: convivial atmosphere The Contact Person: andrewhanna@winetrader.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 10:30 AM to 3 PM The Event: The Launch of the Osoyoos Larose 2004 Le Grand Vin. Assorted dignitaries and wine technical people spoke: Jay Wright, CEO of Vincor; Antoine Merlaut, Managing Director of Groupe Taillan; Pascal Madevon, Winemaker and Vineyard Manager; and Alain Sutre, Technical Project Manager. The Venue: Rosewater Supper Club The Target Audience: wine press in the morning, trade and LCBO in the afternoon. The Availability/Catalogue: Le Grand Vin 2004 will be released at Vintages on March 15, $40. The Quote: “In 1998, a joint venture was formed between Groupe Taillan (Bordeaux) and Vincor (BC) to produce a Canadian wine using the classic Borfdeaux varietals: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.” The Wines: Pascal and Alain led the tasting, beginning with the background to the wines. 2001 was launched in 2004 in Toronto at the Hotel Toronto. Here were my notes on that occasion -- “THURSDAY, APRIL 15, 2004 – Vincor held its Toronto launching of its new BC VQA wine at the Hotel Toronto. Named “Osoyoos Larose”, it is the product of a partnership between Bordeaux’s Groupe Taillon (think Chateau Gruaud-Larose) and Vincor. This premium wine is made in the South Okanagan Valley. Groupe Taillon is France’s largest producer of Appellation Controllee wines from many different regions; Vincor is North America’s fourth largest producer. “Osoyoos” refers to the location of the vineyards which were planted as rootstock in 1999, just north of the US border, and on western slopes (good air drainage, minimal rainfall, intense sunlight). The launch was attended by the media, sommeliers, and restaurateurs. There was a tutored tasting team, with reps from both partners and Pascal Madevon, the winemaker (and former winemaker at Chateau La Tour Blanche in Bordeaux). We sampled five wines: the 2001 (made from only two year old vines) plus barrel samples of a petit verdot/cabernet franc blend, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and merlot all from 2003. The 2003 component tasting was very instructive. PV/CF was ok, not exciting; malbec was tight; cab. sauv. was crisp and developing, while the merlot was smooth, with a satin finish. And, of course, I mixed the leftovers of my glasses to produce my own cuvee blend (rough but delicious). The 2001 bottling was 66% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 9% cabernet franc. Other years will of course change, depending on the circumstances of the vintage. The 2001 was aged 16 months in French oak (used and new), bottled at the end of April 2003. The wine I tried was soft and fruity (black fruit), good depth, engaging on the back palate, obviously merlot-based, perhaps even in a St.Julien style for the North American market. Only 2200 cases made, it currently sells for $35 a bottle. This is a bargain price. Contact your Vincor rep today….” There was a component tasting of the 2007 vintage, with five samples of the varietals that will go into the cepage (and their rough percentages): Merlot (65%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Malbec (4%), Petit Verdot (4%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) in that order for this tasting. My fave was the Petit Verdot 2007, very concentrated, dynamic, and enjoyable at this stage, finishes long but not tough. But then, of course, we are not drinking it right now. The Cabernet Franc would be my second choice, and it too is faster maturing. The finished wines were tasted next. All wines are labeled “Le Grand Vin” -- the second label is “Petales”. - Osoyoos Larose 2006 (to be bottled in June): dense, floral aromas, some wood on the nose (mix of cedar and oak) Balanced fruit, long length, highly alcoholic, very New World style thus far (reflecting hotter vintage). Will be much in demand since it will appeal to North American tastes and will also be ready sooner. 94 points. - Osoyoos Larose 2005: black fruit nose, closed aromas, some spiciness, long stemmy finish. Opens up very well (more Merlot than usual?). 90 points. - Osoyoos Larose 2004: lean, green and mean at this point, some veggie-pruney nose, dried fruit, dusty, soft wood tones, ready in a few more years, very Bordeaux-like. 88 points. - Osoyoos Larose 2002: deep, red fruit showing, oak and some cedar. Tight flavours, good length, some olives in my glass. Elegant. 87 points. The Food: lunch was heavily weighted to the protein side, to show off the wines. We were served Le Grand Vin 2005 and Petales 2005 (second wine, coming in Fall 2008, $25). We were able to taste the food with both wines. Petales 2005 was a pretty wine, ripe and fruity, ready now- ish. We began with braised short ribs in vol-au-vent topped with pan- seared foie gras and with a Bordelaise (what else?) sauce. This was followed by a roasted lamb sirloin with a veggie ragout and pan reduction. For dessert, we finished off with two unidentified BC cheeses and one Ontario cheese, with berries. The Downside: we started a bit late, and while we waited, we were served instant coffee. Bad form. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste the five components from 2007. The Contact Person: info@lewiscarrollcom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 5. The Time and Date: Monday, February 26, 2008 10AM to noon The Event: monthly Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada tasting. The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square The Target Audience: members of the WWCC The Availability/Catalogue: Larry Paterson collated some two dozen wines from Quebec for him and the WWCC to taste and sample. The Quote: “Some fascinating wines of excellent intensity”. The Wines: **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Chapelle Ste Agnes 2003 Geisenheim Icewine 9.5%ABV $43.88 for 200 ml (outstandingly intense) -Vignoble la Mission 2005 Vidal Icewine 11.5% alc $27.00 for 200 ml -Domaine les Brome 2005 Reserve Vidal White 13.0% $20.18 750 ml (outstanding because of its oak complexity, very well made, reminds me of an oak aged seyval blanc from New York. *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine du Ridge 2006 Vent d'Oest White 11.5% $12.94 750 ml -Vignoble Carone 2006 Frontenac Red 13.0% 750 ml (chocolate tones) -Vignoble Carone 2006 Verita Red 14.0% $25.00 750 ml (highly suggestive of Oz but also highly priced) -Vignoble de la Riviere du Chene 2006 Lalande Signe Bastien Red 12.0% $17.55 750 ml (concentrated, dense) -Vignoble la Mission 2005 La Mission Vin Rouge Red 11.5% $13.00 750 ml –Marechal Foch, Chancellor and Lucy Kuhlmann varietals. -Vignoble Le Cep D'Argent 2006 Reserve des Chevaliers Vin de Magog 12.5% $12.24 750 ml -Vignoble de la Bauge 2006 Brise Rose 11.5% 750 ml Frontenac Rose (aromas of ripe cherries, strawberries and cinnamon) -l'Orpailleur 2006 Eleve en Fut de Chene White 12.0% $13.04 750 ml The Food: bread and water The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, February 28, 2008 10AM to 6PM The Event: APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord). The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn The Target Audience: wine agents, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are available in Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec. Most of the wines were French, and there were sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. The Quote: “How did those little wines from Australia get into this show?” The Wines: All of the wines were from France except for some from Castilla and La Mancha in Spain, and three wines from Australia. The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that they were no better than the wines that we already have here. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. These wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. Here were my faves, regardless of price: **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Villebois Val de Loire 2006 Sauvignon Blanc. 13.5%ABV -Rene Fleck Riesling Alsace 2006. 12.5%ABV -Rene Fleck Pinot Gris Zinnkoepfle Alsace 2006. 13.5%ABV -Rene Fleck Gewurztraminer 2006 Alsace -Rene Fleck Muscat Zinnkoepfle Alsace 2005. 13%ABV -Domaine Baumann Gewurztraminer 2006 Vieilles Vignes Alsace. 13%ABV -La Grave Figeac 2005 St. Emilion Grand Cru. (next door to Pomerol) but 18 Euros FOB -Domaine Jean Gleizes Syrah 2006 Pays D’Oc. 13%ABV -Simon Roche La Serine des Fees St Joseph 2005. 12.5%ABV -Alliance Lafoy Syrah Rhone 2006. 12.5%ABV *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Rene Fleck Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle 2005. 13.5%ABV -Domaine Baumann Riesling 2005 Vieilles Vignes Alsace. -Domaine Baumann Riesling SGN Grand Cru 2005 Alsace. half bottle -Domaine de Belle Feuille Cote de Rhone Blanc 2005. 14%ABV 80Viognier/20Rousanne -Domaine Le Portail Cheverny Blanc 2006 Loire. 80Sauvignonblanc/20Chardonnay -Domaine Le Portail Cheverny Rouge 2006 Loire. 70Pinotnoir/30Gamay -Alliance Lefoy Cote Rotie 2005 Cuvee JVL. -Domaine de Belle Feuille Cote de Rhone Rouge 2003. 14%ABV (oaked) -Vignobles David Prieure La Clastre 2005 Cotes du Rhone 2005. 13.5%ABV The Food: none. The Downside: not enough space to sprawl out and write notes. No paper was furnished, so I used some 3 by 5 cards. The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here. The Contact Person: for prices, etc, check with Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JANUARY 2008 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1. Hans Lang Riesling Auslese 2005 (+47928 Vintages, $16.95 for 375 mL) comes from the Hassel vineyard, Hattenheim in the Rheingau. It delivers both stone fruit and peach flower tones, with some apricot domination near the finish. It can be cellared for 10 years or more. Terrific with food later in the meal, such as a weighty salad, cheeses, desserts – or on its own. 2. Stefania Pepe Cuore di Vino Rosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2000 (+48751 Vintages, $41) comes at a higher price tag, but it is already 7 years old and it is organic from a reputable and reliable producer. Stefania is daughter of Emidio; she makes the wine with biodynamics in mind. The Cuore series has white, red, and rose. This is red. Expect the montepulciano fruit in spades with a long finish: jammy, peppery, and rustic as well, with a linger. This vintage is currently selling in Boston for $60. 13.5% alcohol. 3. Applewood Farm Winery Iced Apple Liqueur 2006 ($14.95, 500mL from www.applewoodfarmwinery.com) at 22% ABV is a Canadian version of the Pommeau de Normandie from the Calvados region of France. Which is good, since the LCBO thoughtlessly orders only 40 cases of this French cordial every two years. Applewood’s version is higher in alcohol, resulting in a slightly hot but off-dry finish. The apples are not cider apples, so you’ll miss that tang of Brittany, but otherwise there is orchard fruit, some small clove-y tones, and a great gob of in-your- face apple complexity. Good as a winter sipper for dessert (nuts, dried fruit, hard cheeses). Given what they want for iced apple in Quebec, this has to be the bargain of the decade. Home delivery can be arranged. 4. Ubuntu Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Western Cape South Africa (+36798 General List, $9.95) combines tropicality with grassiness, producing a sort-of clone to California sauvignon blanc, suitable for either sipping or eating food. 12% ABV. 5. Ubuntu Shiraz Western Cape South Africa (+665281 General List, $9.95) has undergone malolactic fermentation to soften the fullness. Still peppery with spices showing overtop the berry fruit. Suitable for either sipping or noshing. 13.7% ABV. 6. Puklus Tokaji Szamorodni Dry 1997 (+48058 Vintages, $13.85, 500 mL) was an unusual, dry but full-bodied tokaji wine without the putts put in it. Somewhat aromatic, and worthy of a heavy pork dish. 13.5% ABV. 7. St. Donatus Irsai Oliver 2006 Balaton (+12070, $11.85 Vintages) resembles muscat in its aromatic qualities, with some mint on the finish. Spicy food is suggested. 12% ABV. 8. Le Cidre Fort St.-Nicolas (about $15) comes from Quebec, and it is a follow-up to their just released light 2.8% ABV cider. The fort is 8.5%, and seems to be more in line with suggestions of Norman cider. From ExquitiTaste (exquisitaste@sympatico.ca). 9. Rose Cidre St-Nicolas (about $15) is a blend of some strawberry and raspberry flavours plus apple cider. 7% ABV. Hopefully it will be available, from ExquisiTaste by Valentine’s Day 10. Chateau des Charmes Brut NV (+207944, $22.95 Vintages) is 50-50 chardonnay and pinot noir in the “traditional method”, a well-conceived toasty “old style” sparkler wine that also goes very well with seafood. All the grapes were hand selected and hand picked, finishing at 12.5% ABV. Great for Valentine’s Day. Very affordable for this level of quality. 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday December 18, 2007. 10AM to 6PM The Event: a wine blitz trip to three Niagara wineries. The Venue: My wine writer colleague Michael Pinkus and I decided to make a quick trip to the Beamsville Bench in Niagara, visiting three wineries close by to each other: Lenko, Organized Crime (newish), and 30 Bench (new owners). We carpooled (his car) and took the QEW HOV PDQ – it was really fast this day. The Target Audience: I set up the Lenko, Michael phoned Organized Crime to make sure it was open at midweek, and we converged on Thirty Bench as a spur of the moment idea. The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted wines that were available only at the winery. First up was Lenko, to do a comprehensive tasting of recently bottled wines. Daniel Lenko and his winemaker, Ilya Senchuk, conducted the tasting over the famous kitchen table-cum-office. Lenko tries for 3 – 5,000 cases, mostly chardonnay and Bordeaux-varieties. He’s small, but everything is tucked in; they are busy replanting their 35 acres. There are several old blocks here, and while there are 16 different wines each year, they have stopped producing sweet wines. From the stainless steel (German), we had Unoaked Chardonnay 2007, about 13 -14% ABV, and so Chablis-like but with a full and lush mid- palate. The French Oaked Chardonnay 2007 barrel sample was ripe, off- dry, and with some cloves in the finish. It had been barrel fermented for 2.5 months (MT-TH medium toast toasted head). They use a lot of oak, acquiring some 50 new barrels each year, primarily US Canton and French Alliers. I ended up buying two bottles of the 2002 Old Vines Chardonnay, one my all-time faves. Then, it was on to Organized Crime on Mountainview Road. The story behind the name is too long to tell here. We tasted in the tasting room, with Krystyna Tarasewicz, co-owner with husband Jan. Andrzej Lipinski is the winemaker. In 2006, 3200 cases were made, none with twist top. They are trying all sorts of grapes, all grown on 28 acres. They have eight whites, four reds (not yet released and no barrel samples were available to us), plus one pinot noir rose. All the non-reds were upfront wines, displaying MVC (modal varietal character) at differing levels. But young vines show some varying and inconsistent concentration patterns. Their 2006 Gewurztraminer (pricey at $22) was the best, and it seemed to suggest older vines. My colleague bought two bottles. The third winery was Thirty Bench Wine Makers which is now owned by Andre Peller Wines. Here we had a formal sit-down tasting off the order form; we were attended to by Alex Hastie and his colleague Jeannine. Thirty Bench does 10 - 12,000 cases a year, about 60/40 white and red. They are known for their powerful reds and delightfully different series of Rieslings. Ownership changes have meant that they have become more rigourous than in the past; all grapes are hand picked and hand sorted, and none are sold to other wineries. The Quote: “When there are shortages, I believe in sucking it up” – Lenko. The Wines: Here were the best wines of the tastings; we had tasted some 43 wines today. **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Daniel Lenko Old Vines Chardonnay 2004 American Oak ($22.95) – 13.7% - Daniel Lenko Old Vines Chardonnay 2004 French Oak ($29.95) – 13.7% - Daniel Lenko Signature Chardonnay 2005 ($40) – 14%, French oak. - Daniel Lenko Old Vines Merlot 2005 ($49.95) – sweet nose, French & US oak 18 months. - Daniel Lenko Meritage 2005 ($59.95) – 83/17 CabSauv-Merlot – total change in blend, dependent on field conditions. - Daniel Lenko Meritage 2004 ($34.95) – 67/22/11 – Merlot/Franc/CabSauv - Organized Crime Gewurztraminer 2006 ($22) – weighty, fruit-driven, low alcohol (11.6%) - Thirty Bench Red 2005 ($22) – 13.6%, 65CD/24CF/10M - Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc Small Lot 2005 ($35) – 13.8% - Thirty Bench Riesling Wood Post Small Lot 2006 ($28) - Thirty Bench Gewurztraminer Small Lot 2006 ($30) – Alsatian bitterness - Thirty Bench Benchmark Red Reserve 2005 ($60) – 50CS/30M/20CF *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay 2005 ($239.40 case) – 14% ABV, Chablis intensity - Daniel Lenko Viognier 2006 ($34.95) - Organized Crime 2006 Chardonnay Reserve ($25) – French oak - Organized Crime 2006 Chardonnay Unoaked ($18) – good body, 13.4% ABV - Organized Crime 2006 Chardonnay Musqué ($15) – light and lively - Thirty Bench Pinot Noir Small Lot 2005 ($35) - Thirty Bench Rose Pinot Meunier Small Lot 2006 ($22) – Tavel-style - Thirty Bench Benchmark Blend 2003 ($25) – 57CS/33M/10CF - Thirty Bench Chardonnay Small Lot 2005 ($30) The Food: we didn’t eat, although we did gobble up some bread at Organized Crime. The Downside: it was grueling for my travel time, two hours on TTC plus another three hours by car. Once a year is enough for me, thank you very much. The Upside: with the ground frozen, it was good to devote some time to just the wine at hand. The Contact Person: www.thirtybench.com www.organizedcrimewine.com www.daniellenko.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday January 22, 2008 2PM to 4 PM The Event: Vintages Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2005 Tasting Event, for the trade. Over 100 wines from over 75 chateaux. The Venue: Four Seasons Hotel, Regency Ballroom The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers, food and beverage managers. The Availability/Catalogue: many of the vaunted, ripe and classically- structured 2005 wines were available for pre-order. This was not strictly a futures event, and stock will begin to arrive over the next few seasons. But many could still be pre-ordered by Feb 8/08. My tasting catalogue, as with all previous LCBO tasting catalogues, was well-laid out, clear, had prices, and connected well with the labels on or at the tables. And as with all previous LCBO catalogues, this one fell apart after 30 minutes. Their printer has a problem with staples. The Quote: “What vintage is this wine?” – gushed-heard from one young blonde lady. Did she not know where she was? Or was she a gate crasher? The Wines: I could not taste every single red wine, but I tried. I did not taste any white Pessac or any Sauternes/Barsac, for there was no time and palate left. The best wine values of the show were Chateau Beaumont ($19.85) from Haut Medoc and Chateau Greysac from Medoc (not available for purchase, but regularly selling for under $20 US). Both were well-aged already, ripe, and with a textbook mouthfeel and length, and exceptional at the price: these are wines to have while waiting for the other 2005s to come around. Here were my faves of the show (not in any order except by stars), although just about all of them are closed: **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Château Chasse-Spleen ($65) - Château Phelan-Segur ($70) - Château Talbot ($72) - Château La Conseillante ($309) - Château Leoville Barton ($309) - Château Troplong Mondot ($329) - Château Angelus ($392; $784 for magnum) - Château Lynch-Bages ($215) - Château Figeac ($174) - Château Pichon-Baron ($197) - Château La Couspaude ($99) - Château La Lagune ($109) - Château Canon ($133) - Château Leoville-Poyferre ($199) - Château Beau-Sejour Becot ($114; $228 for a magnum) - Château Langoa Baron ($113) - Château Clarke ($32) - Château La Gaffelière ($110) - Château Poujeaux ($47) - Château Dufort-Vivens ($54) - Château La Dominique ($73) - Château Lagrange ($96) *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Château Dassault ($54) - Château Camensac ($36) - Château Grand Puy Ducasse ($46) - Château Bouscaut ($42) - Domaine de Chevalier ($82) - Château Latour-Martillac ($49) - Château Smith Haut-Lafitte ($125) - Château Canon-La-Gaffelière ($138) - Château La Dominique ($73) - Château Beauregard ($55) - Château Branaire-Ducru ($160) - Château Léoville-Barton ($309) - Château Haut-Bages Libéral ($85) - Château Lynch-Bages ($215) - Château Pichon-Longueville ($198, $396 magnum) The Food: hard to beat duck terrine, chicken liver mousse, roquefort cheese, stilton, brie, dried fruit, several kinds of breads, and the like. The Downside: it may have been just a trade function, with tastings rather than orders, but does that excuse a certain rudeness from many of the French pourers? They talked amongst themselves while we were standing in front of them, waiting for wine to be poured, glasses outstretched so that there would be no mistake about what we wanted. Other pourers were writing notes and text messaging. And it wasn’t just to me either...On the other hand, the LCBO Product Consultants were lively and alert, as if to compensate. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste some serious wines at serious prices. The Contact Person: try Shari Mogk-Edwards through www.vintages.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 95. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:30PM to 8 PM The Event: Southbrook/Lailey Chardonnay Vertical Tasting The Venue: Ontario Wine Society at U of T Faculty Club The Target Audience: OWS members and guests. Fifty people attended. The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted eight wines, four from Lailey (2000-2006) and four from Southbrook (1997-2000). These are wines from two different wineries, but using the same grape source (Lailey Vineyards) and the same winemaker, Derek Barnett (for vintage 2000, he made the Southbrook Chardonnay but did not bottle it). Both Derek and Bill Redelmeier (Southbrook) commented on the wines. All wines were basically treated the same way: French oak, barrel fermentation, barrel aging, and malo-lactic fermentation. The Quote: “Lailey Vineyards’ chardonnay grapes have been growing since 1973, and they have achieved Old Vine status. But with the 2003 and 2005 vintages, a lot of the old vines died [Lailey lost 85% of all their vines in 2005], but they are being replaced.” The Wines: we began with some wines at the reception, mostly off-dry, such as a Chardonnay Musque (too sweet), Pelee Island, Calamus, DeSousa Vidal, etc, to a total of 9 wines. My fave – and driest – was the Hillebrand 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Barrel Aged. Here were the wines tasted; we did them all blind (although by taste and sight it was pretty easy to figure out what the years were; the best comparison was with the two 2000 wines as they came from the same vineyard). We tasted them in the following order (and I was able to guess them all except for two which I had reversed – I even managed to distinguish between the two 2000 bottles. Write me and I’ll tell you how I did it): * Lailey Chardonnay 2006 (not yet released, coming to Vintages in September 2008, $29.95): muted nose but full flavours, some acidity showing but not yet balanced. Fresh fruit. QPR: 88. * Lailey Chardonnay 2004 ($39.95, 65 cases made): good nose, toast and butter, a bit shrill or bitter on the finish, suggesting more food than sipping. QPR: 89. * Southbrook Chardonnay 2000 ($33.95): new oak lends butter and butterscotch, rich, full, voluptuous, balanced. QPR: 90. * Lailey Chardonnay 2000 ($39.95): mute nose, good mouth feel, longer length, some finishing acid demands food. Young at heart. No new oak. QPR: 88. * Lailey Chardonnay 2002 ($39.95): yellow sight, some age showing, buttery, developing well, balance, overall a good wine. QPR: 91. * Southbrook Chardonnay 1997 (magnum, n/a): gold sight, old, marmalade (some said madeirized, and that could be with some bottles), chunky. QPR: 85. * Southbrook Chardonnay 1998 (magnum, n/a): well-rounded and balanced, off-dry smoothness, integrated, overripe tropicality, high alcohol, sort of like California. QPR: 92. (my fave) * Southbrook Chardonnay 1999 ($35.95): cream, good length and detail, an elegant wine, suggests food, a bit perfumed in that typical Ontario taste. QPR: 88. The Food: buns, polenta parcels and fish cakes to start, followed by penne in a cheese and cream sauce. The Downside: attendance was lower than I expected, given the price and the quality of the wines, but I heard that some members just don’t like white wines. The Upside: a great chance to taste these wines – verticals and commonalties are hard to find any more in the local wine scene. The Contact Person: www.ontariowinesociety.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, January 31, 2008 Noon – 3 PM The Event: a tasting of the wines of Castello delle Regine (Umbria), led by Maurizio Ghiori, Managing Director. The Venue: Grano Caffe Forno The Target Audience: wine media , which began with a glass of La Riva dei Frati Prosecco di Valdobiaddene as an aperitif. The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are currently available, although the Merlot was at Classics in the 2003 vintage. The wines are being pitched, and many will come in on consignment, particularly the two Poggios. The Quote: ‘The Merlot has only been made for 5 years, yet it has already garnered multiple awards.” The Wines: * Poggio delle Regine Bianco 2006 - $13.95 - (Trebbiano, Grechetto and Malvasia): deep straw, all stainless steel, thick, unctuous, a great buy at this price. * Bianco delle Regine 2006 - $23 - (Chardonnay 30%, Sauvignon Blanc 30, Riesling 30 and Pinot Grigio 10%)- elegant style, fresh fruit, upfront aromas. * Rose delle Regine 2006 - $21 - (Montepulciano d'Abruzzo) – elegant red fruit such as raspberries, good structure for food, but a competitive market at this price level. * Poggio delle Regine Rosso 2004 - $13.95 - (Sangiovese 85%, Merlot and Syrah balance) – Italianate nose (earth, dried roses and cherries), good food wine, deep concentration and spicy. * Rosso dei Podernovo 2004 - $21 - (Sangiovese 80%, Montepulciano and Syrah 10 each) – elegant, but long finish demands food. Dried fruit tones. * Princeps 2002 - $36 - (Sangiovese 60%, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon 20 each) – call it a SuperUmbrian, and you’ll know what I mean. North American in style, very appealing for North American food tastes. Great for restaurants, ready now. * Selezione del Fondatore Sangiovese Grosso 2002 - $55 – like a Brunello, with tons of black fruit, very interesting, some anise on mid-palate. * Merlot 2004 - $66 – soft, smooth, everything a Merlot should be, but also very European with wood and pepper tones. The Food: we were served at a long table, and the food kept coming while we tasted. There were cheese and tomato mini-pizzas, antipasti of cheeses-olives-meats, squid two ways (grilled and fried), roasted eggplant and zucchini, ricotta gnocchi pomodori, and coffees. The Downside: I would have preferred a bit more structure to the tasting, that is, a few more empty glasses so that I could compare, contrast, and try with different foods. This would have been useful for the last three wines. Also, the long table in the open made it difficult to hear sometimes, even with my hearing aid up at full blast. The Upside: we very seldom get a chance to eat a variety of foods with a variety of wines, and I was able to cross-compare a bit (I just confiscated some spare glasses from the empty seats near me). The Contact Person: tony@merchantvintner.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH ----------------------------------- Lifford, in conjunction with the LCBO, has offered some alternative environment-friendly packages of wine. These are Plantatree Wines (www.plantatreewine.com), and there are three of them. The package is a PET bottle made in Mississauga, with a label designed by a Canadian, a twist-top made in Quebec, and paper printed in Canada. The wine, though, is Californian, from Ironstone’s “sustainable agricultural” Sierra Foothills. It has been trucked into Niagara for bottling here. What makes the wine carbon-positive is the fact that $2.50 from each bottle purchased will go to planting a tree in Sudbury. Plantatree Chardonnay 2005 (+64824, $14.95) is a lean, apple-y wine which is being compared to Chablis. It is a useful food wine, but a little too austere to use as a sipper. Plantatree Merlot 2005 (+65151, $14.95) is all upfront, with the fruit bursting forward, all yummy and jammy – for about 10 minutes. It then collapses and dissipates in the glass. The next day it was flat. Best to consume really early. Plantatree Cabernet Sauvignon (+65102, $14.95) tasted about as austere as the Chardonnay. In fact, it tasted like a Cabernet Franc. Both austere wines suggest that they came from young vines, and both are better with food. The Merlot can be sipped. The best wine of the bunch was a blend I made from 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Merlot. It perked up the latter, and smoothed out the former. But these are mainly $9.95 wines. It is all commendable, but two questions arise: one, why not just use Ontario wines and save the transport? We can easily make young vine wines here at home...And two, why are wines that are $9.95 in quality selling for $14.95 (less $2.50 for the tree)? What happened to the other $2.50? Where did it go? And while we are on packaging, there have been some new developments with French Rabbit from France. There have been a few 250 mL TetraPaks unleashed; unfortunately, you have to buy a four pack for $14.95 – they are not sold individually. The regular price for a one litre carton is $13.15, so this adds almost $2 (45 cents each, ten of which is deposit room) to the price for convenience. And the blend has changed: the white is Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc (+56226) in a 75/25 ratio, bottled by Rene Clement of Languedoc. One red is Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon (+56218) in the same ratio; another red is Pinot Noir (+56234). Perfect containers for nefarious activities? Just add a straw but make sure the kids don’t mistake them for juice cartons...;-) 1. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 1, 2007, 1 PM to 5 PM. The Event: VIP Reserve Wine Tasting of Halpern agency wines from 80 global vintners. The event is part of Toronto General & Western Hospital Foundation’s Grand Cru fundraiser, helmed as always by Todd Halpern. The Venue: Muzik, 15 Saskatchewan Road, Exhibition Place. The Target Audience: private clients, sommeliers, news media. The Availability/Catalogue: there was a catalogue labeled “Portfolio Wine Tasting” which listed all the wines available for tasting, along with extensive provenance notes for each bottle. CSPC numbers and prices were missing; there was a separate sheet for those. The Quote: “Everybody is here: where do I start? Antinori? Biondi Santi? Burge? Ceretto? Chapoutier? O’Brien? Badia a Coltibuono? Firestone? Hugel? Gosset? Isole e Olena? Jaboulet? Jordan? Maculan? Nonino? Planeta? Prunotto? Remoissenet? Silver Oak? Let’s play spin the wheel...” The Wines: I did not taste every wine, just some that I felt I could handle in a two hour period. I did a lot of walking around, back and forth, here and there, hither and yon, etc. Here’s my list, with some modified “Parker numbers”. **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Jordan Chardonnay Sonoma 2004 Russian River ($42.90 Lic) - Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2004 ($134.64 Lic) - Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Villa Poggio Salvi 2001 ($66 Lic) - Chateau Haut-Brion 2001, - Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2004 ($115.56 Lic) - Domaine de Montille Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet 2003 ($81.29 Lic) - Maison Deux Montilles Soeur et Frere Meursault Les Casse Tetes 2005 ($75.08 Lic) - Rolf Binder Heysen Shiraz 2005 ($61.71 Lic) - Hugel Gewurztraminer Selection Grains Nobles 1999 375mL ($65.84 Lic) - Isole e Olena Cepparello 2004 ($73.81 Lic) - L'Aventure Syrah 2004 Paso Robles ($59.68 Lic) - Maculan Fratta 2003 ($74.80 Lic) - Burge Family Olive Hill GSM Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre 2005 ($56.93 Lic) - Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brunate Barolo 2003 ($90.48 Lic) - Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Napa ($127.60 Lic) - Russiz Surperior Colio Sauvignon 2006 ($34.87 Lic) - Conakilla Shiraz/Viognier 2006 ($84.32 Lic) - Conakilla Viognier 2006 ($61.66 Lic) *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Antinori Tignanello 2004 IGT Tuscany - Backsberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Paarl South Africa ($18.37 Lic) - Chain of Ponds Amadeus Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($32.12 Lic) - Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Napa ($96.58 Lic) - Clark-Claudon Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Napa ($104.56 Lic) - Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons 2001 ($130.08 Lic) - Gravitas Pinot Noir 2006 Marlborough ($41.36 Lic) - Hugel Muscat Tradition 2006 Alsace ($24.26 Lic) - Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 2004 ($168.19 Lic) - Jaboulet Hermitage “La Petite” Chapelle 2004 ($79.15 Lic) – second wine - Maculan Torcolato 2004 Veneto 375 mL ($36.63 Lic) - Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2000 ($105.22 Lic) - Remoissenet Puligny Montrachet 2005 ($65.01 Lic) - Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Alexander Valley ($78.54 Lic) The Food: for the trade, from Pusateri -- cold cuts, cheeses, breads, nuts, dried fruit, etc. The Downside: some of the cold cuts were too spicy for this tasting. The Upside: a chance to meet and greet Robert M. Parker, Jr. The Contact Person: Todd Halpern sales@halpernwine.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 2. The Time and Date: Monday, November 5, 2007 11 AM to 1 PM The Event: A horizontal tasting of Amarone della Valpolicella conducted by Emilio Fasoletti (President of the Consortium of Valpolicella, now for 30 years) and David Lawrason (wine writer, now for over 20 years). The Venue: the “stage” of Roy Thomson Hall. The Target Audience: wine press and sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines had agents, but availability is spotty. The Quote: “Amarone has a DOC, but it still hasn’t got a DOCG.” The Wines: we tasted six Amarones – - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 (Begali Lorenzo, 15.20 Euros FOB, Regazzi agency): fresh, perfumey, youthful approach, ripe, but hot finish, cherry-plum axis, some drying out on finish. 15.85% ABV. - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003 Calcarole (Guerrieri Rizzardi, 34.50 Euros FOB, Vinexx): 16.99% ABV. Portly from a ripe year, but not a hot finish, not a sipper. - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003 Campo dei Gigli (S. Antonio, once at Vintages for $79.95, Prevedello & Mathews): single vineyard, elegant, hot year, great finish, 16 %ABV. - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003 Case Vecie (Brigaldara, 25 Euros FOB, Rogers and Co.): low nose, hot year, hot finish, 17.5% ABV, portly. 18 months in wood plus long term storage in wood. Some merlot and sangiovese added for fruit (5% each). - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003 Capitel Monte Olmi (Tedeschi, 38 Euros FOB, Noble Estates): 15.4% ABV, traditional amarone style, cru quality, dried fruit nose, elegance upfront, hot tannins to resolve. - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2000 (Bertani, 34 Euros FOB Select Wines): 15% ABV, dried fruit, sour cherries, good depth, aging well. - Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico The Food: bread and water. The Downside: it started 20 minutes late. The Upside: it was instructive, and showed us where Amarone was in 2003. The Contact Person: toronto.toronto@ice.it The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 3. The Time and Date: Monday, November 5, 2007 1:30 PM – 5:30 PM The Event: the 12th annual Italian wine and grappa tasting, organized by the Italian Trade Commission. The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall Lobby The Target Audience: wine media, buyers, and sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: as usual, the Italians listed every single wine available in all of Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto, and Montreal, along with grape varieties and vintage. But, as usual, no prices or availability. Agents were listed for each province, where appropriate. For some reason, the catalogue was printed on clay-coated paper stock, which added to the weight: it was exactly one pound. The catalogue also said that the Consulate General of Italy supported the show in Edmonton, but the rest of the book said that the wines were poured in Calgary. That’s a long way to pour wine; they must have used an oil pipeline... Only four producers brought older wines with them, and they were phenomenal (see below). The Quote: “There are very few white wines here. Is there no longer a push on pinot grigio? Proseccos were in abundance.” The Wines: I did not taste every wine, and I did not taste any grappa (for the 12th year in a row) since my palate was fatigued near the end. **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Caldora Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006 (Appellation Wines) -Collemassari Montecucco Vermentino Irisse 2005 -Collemassari Bolgheri Vermentino Grattamacco 2006, -Allegrini Amarone 2003 -Allegrini Valpolicello Classico 2006, -Donnafugata Sicilia Sedara 2005 (Nero d'Avola) (Maxxium) -Castello di Nieve Barbaresco 2004. (Brunello) -Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Mille e Una Notte 2004 (Maxxium) -Masi Toscana Rosso Poderi del Bello Ovile Serego Aligheri 2004 (Maxxium) -Castell’n Villa IGT Santacroce 1997. -Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva 1986 -Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2005 (Authentic) -G.Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan 2000 (Mondia Alliance) -Eredi di Settimo Aurelio Barolo Rocche Riserva 1999 (VinVino) -Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2005 (Authentic) -Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Ornellaia Superiore 2004 (Authentic) -Cinzia Binda Moscato d’Asti Bosio Bosco dei Signori 2007 (really fresh!) ($16.95, La Vita) *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Val d'Oca Pinot Grigio Marca Trevigiana "Pigia" 2006 (Brunello) -Alessandria Fratelli Barolo San Lorenzo 2003 -Ampeleia Maremma Toscana 2004 ($35, Kylix) -Valle dell'Acate Insolia Vittoria 2006 Sicilia (Brunello) -Planeta IGT Merlot 2004 Sicilia (Halpern) -Roberto Sarotto Barolo Briccobergera 2003 -Roberto Sarotto Barolo Riserva Audace 2000 -Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva 2004 (Majestic) -Masottina Prosecco Spumante di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene Extra Dry 2006 (TWC Imports) -Planeta IGT Chardonnay 2006 Sicilia (Halpern) -Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Cultus Beni 2004 (Halpern) -Barale Fratelli Barbaresco Serraboella 2004 (Marco Taloni) -Cascina Gilli Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco 2006 (sparkler) -Valle dell’ Acate Il Frappato Vitoria 2006 (Brunello) -Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classic 2005 (70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Frappati) (Brunello) -Domodimonti Picens Marche 2004 (Brunello) -Domodimonti Il Messia Marche 2005 (Brunello) The Food: roast beef on crostini with sauces, gourmet potato chips, mushroom risotto, Parmigano Reggiano wheels, prosciutto, roasted peppers, artichokes, breads. The Downside: very crowded with more than the usual gawkers and gatecrashers: who ARE these people? The Upside: a good range of red wines were presented. The Contact Person: toronto.toronto@ice.it The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 6, 2007 3:30 PM to 4:30 PM, The Event: a vertical tasting of Masi Costasera Amarones with Gordon Coutts, Regional Manager of Masi Wines for Canada. The Venue: Vaughan Estate The Target Audience: wine press, private clients, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: some of the wines are private import, others are consignment, and one is a General List. The Quote: “This is the THIRD Amarone tasting in a month! It has been about ten years since any other Amarone tasting in Toronto.” The Wines: -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2004 (+317057, $36.15): working its way through the system, with some 2003 still remaining. 15% ABV, light nose, light body, fruity, simple, off-dry, and will be more complex later in life. -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2003 (+317057, $36.15): very Euro elegance, with backbone, underbrush, cherry-choco tones, some spicy leather, nuts. Dense, good length, needs some time, resolved tannins on the finish. -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2001 (private order): good fruit from the year, some tannic complexity evolution, resolution of tannins in evidence, lingering tastes, delicious finish. -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 1997 (consignment, $450 for case of six): gets better with age, more typical of Amarone. First year it is called Costasera. -Masi [Costasera] Amarone Classico 1995 (consignment, $450 for case of six): good aged complexity, a bit fragile, losing fruit. -Masi [Costasera] Amarone Classico 1993 (consignment, $450 for case of six): rich, rounded, still developing, my fave of the tasting. -Masi [Costasera] Amarone Classico 1990 (no longer available): a classic aged Amarone, all that it should be. This vintage year was rated Five Stars by everybody. The Food: water and bread (the latter arrived just as we were finishing!) The Downside: we started late and had to finish on time because there was to be a pinotage tasting in that same room in a few minutes. Thus, we were a bit rushed. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste Amarone. The Contact Person: presidentstasting@maxxium.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 6, 2007 5 – 8 PM The Event: The President’s Tasting, Maxxium Canada. The Venue: Vaughan Estate. The Target Audience: clients, sommeliers, wine media, LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: this is basically a portfolio tasting since all the items are available at Vintages, Classics, Consignment Program, or Private Order. In the past, with reduced numbers, we had been favoured with single offerings of wines from the 1950s and 1960s. Special order prices were not given. The Quote: “This event started when the company was Sainsbury; that must have been about 15 to 20 years ago. Every year the wines and foods get better, although I do regret the lack of older wines.” The Wines: I did not taste every wine – I passed on the fortifieds and spirits. Still, there were a total of some 42 wines. My overall fave was Charles Heidsieck Champagne 1989 Jerobaum (warm, toasty, well-aged: special order). **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Piper Heidsieck 2000 Champagne - Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2005 (Classics, $69.95) - Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2005 (Vintages, May 24/08, $32.05) - Maison Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2005 - Maison Louis Latour Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvee Heritiers 1996 - Masi Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico 1988 - Johns Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek 2001 - Sena Aconcagua Chile (Jan 2008 Classics, $79) - Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay Paarl 2005 ($14.95, sold out) - Cathedral Cellar Shiraz Paarl 2003 (Vintages, $16.95) - Clos du Bois Briarcrest Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2003 (Vintages Feb 6, 2008, $59.95) *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Charles Heidsieck Mis En Cave 2001 Champagne - Chateau La Louviere Rouge Pessac-Leognan 2003 (Vintages, $49.95) - Collavini Merlot dal Pic 2001 - Masi Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico 2000 - Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2004 - Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia 2003 - J & F Lurton Chacayes Mendoza 2004 (April 2008 Classics, $77.95) - J & F Lurton Piedra Negra Mendoza 2004 (July 19, 2008 Vintages, $39.95) - Masi Tupungato Passo Doble Mendoza 2006 (General List, $14.95) - Cathedral Cellar Triptych Paarl 2004 (Vintages, December 2007, $16.95) - Kanonkop Pinotage Stellenbosch 2004 (April 2008 Classics, $45.95) - Buena Vista Carneros Chardonnay 2005 (Vintages Aug 30, 2008, $23.95) - Clos du Bois Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Vintages, $29.95) - Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage Alexander Valley 2004 (Vintages Feb 2, 2008, $54.95) The Food: as usual, the unusual – oysters, seafood paella (with lobsters), shrimp, mushroom tartes, cheeses, breads, and the like, with desserts in the fortified and spirits room. The Downside: despite restrictions, there was an interesting assortment of gatecrashers ranging from singles to couples. How did they get in? Also, some of the waitstaff did not know where their wines were on the table. The Upside: the show was very relevant. The Contact Person: presidentstasting@maxxium.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 6. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 2 PM to 5 PM The Event: a tasting with Domenico Angeloni, Export Director for Cantina Tollo D’Abruzzo, repped in Ontario by Caliber Fine Wines and Spirits. The Venue: Tappo Wine Bar, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine media, LCBO product consultants. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are landed or they will be here soon. The Quote: “This is a spacious room, lots of ways to spread out and really taste the wine”. The Wines: * Rocca Ventosa Trebbiano D’Abruzzo 2006, $7.15 General +430249, fragrantly warm and developing for the price. * Rocca Ventosa Pinot Grigio Terre degli Osci IGT 2006, est. $7.85, full and rich, long length, better than most grigios at twice the price. * Rocca Ventosa Chardonnay IGT 2006, est. $7.85, again, full and rich, a great bargain at this price level. 10% BF in French oak, 6 months in stainless and barriques. * Aldiano Trebbiano D’Abruzzo 2006, est. $13.70, showed some anise, body, good development. 15% chardonnay added for complexity, some vanilla from the French oak used to age the chardonnay. * Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGT 2006, est. $19.15, from the pecorino grape, all stainless, white fruit and flowers in fragrance, lingering off-dry finish. A bit pricey but the quality is good. * Rocca Ventosa Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Cerasuolo Rose 2006, est. $7.85, fresh, brisk, useful for celebrations. * Rocca Ventosa Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006, $7.15 General List +428532, a fruity and soft bargain. Even better is the magnum (+464875, at $12.95) because of its price. * Rocca Ventosa Sangiovese Collini Teatine IGT 2006, est. $7.85, showed cherries and chocolate in an off-dry quaff mode. * Colle Secco Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006, $8.40 +195826, was my fave of the tasting; it was pretty good stuff, with ripe leather and spice tones, leafiness, even some anise. * Aldiano Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2004, $16.30 Vintages, +51706, had more black fruit than the Colle and was more upscale, with more extract and density. 300 cases brought in. The Food: excellent array of goodies, ranging from a giant shrimp bowl to lamb lollipops, skewered beef, prosciutto on a stick, tuna tartare crostini, cheeses, arancini, tomato bruschetta. The Downside: it was a wild and wooly day, and a long walk from public transport. Also, I did not feel my palate would respond well to the brandies on offer, so I did not have any of the Vecchia Romagna. The Upside: a chance to taste some quality wines after the eminently forgettable nouveaus tasted at the LCBO lab an hour before. The Contact Person: caliber@winevintages.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Thursday, November 15, 2007, 6 Pm to 10 PM The Event: the opening of the 13th Annual Gourmet Food and Wine Expo, at the Metro Convention Centre. Tonight was VIP and trade night. The Venue: Metro Convention Centre South. The Target Audience: knowledgeable consumers and the wine trade, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: most wines were available for sale at the LCBO wine store on site. Otherwise, the wines were usually part of the General Listing or Vintages operations. The Quote: “I put my bag down for a minute, next to my leg, while I tasted. When I went to get it, it was gone – the thief made off with my tasting notes!! I hope that he can read my writing...” The Wines: I tasted a few wines in the Chile area, the host country. They had put on a show of music and dancing, along with some empanadas for the starving media...Most of my time was at Churchill Cellars for their trade tasting of partial portfolio wines. Another part of my time was at the New York area tasting some wines with Robert Ketchin, from Finger Lakes and Long Island. In Toronto they only exhibit at this show and in the spring show at the Airport. **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Vintages +255513, $37.75) -Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Vintages +954834, $24.95) -Mission Hill Chardonnay Reserve 2005 VQA Okanagan (+545004, $22.15) -D’Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier 2006 (Vintages +936971, $27.95) -Blackstone Zinfandel 2004 (+26247 Private Order Churchill, $21.95) -Chateau Au Pont de Guitres 2003 Lalande de Pomerol (+45666 Vintages, $27.95) -Dr.Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes ($21.50, Hobbs & Co.) -Jamesport Vineyards Chardonnay 2005 Long Island ($24.90, Private) *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Mission Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 VQA Okanagan (+545004- it says -- $22.15) -Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva 2003 (Vintages +479014, $15.75) -Segura Viudas Lavit Brut Nature 2003 (Vintages +277269, $14.75) -Chateau de Campuget Viognier Marsanne 2006 (Vintages +662775, $16.95) -Robert Mondavi Napa Fume Blanc 2005 (Vintages +221887, $24.75) -Casa Larga Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes ($22.80, Private) -Chateau Lafayette Reneau Riesling 2006 Finger Lakes ($23.60, Private) -Castello di Borghese Chardonnay 2006 Long Island ($21.70, Private) -Osprey Dominion Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Long Island ($19.95, J. Hanna) -Lamoreaux Landing Dry Gewurztraminer 2006 ($28.60, MCO) -Raphael Merlot 2001 Long Island ($42.95, Private) -Fox Run Cabernet Franc/Lemberger 2006 ($19.75, Lorac Wines) -Peconic Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Long Island ($33.30, Private) The Food: empanadas for the press (from the Jumbo Empanada people) and some cheese with M+G Kitchens shortbreads (chai, smoked paprika, coconut curry, Moroccan spice, herbes de Provence) at the Churchill Cellars area. The Downside: my wine notes were stolen. Also, it was very warm and very crowded. The Upside: a chance to taste New York wines. The Contact Person: carly@churchillcellars.com or ketchin@kethin.com at 705-444-5255 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 8. The Time and Date: Saturday, November 17, 2007, 8 PM to midnight. The Event: second annual Hungarian Wine Tasting and Gourmet Dinner at the Hungarian Cultural Centre. The Venue: HCC, 840 St. Clair Ave. West The Target Audience: consumers of Hungarian wines. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines came from Karl Kovacs Agencies, except for one which was from Master Sommelier John Szabo. Apparently, we had the only eight bottles in Canada from his winery in Hungary (Sik Hilltop vineyard), a Kekfrankos 2005, which was well- rounded in the mouth showing plenty of fruit, wood and berries. Its success in Canada will depend on how it is priced. Says John, " My wine is from the Eger Region in Hungary, about half way between Budapest and Tokaj in the Northeast. It is made 100% from Kékfrankos, aka Blaufrankisch or Lemberger, grown in the Sik vineyard, a registered single vineyard of volcanic origin that produces a lighter, more peppery style of the grape (which certainly resembles Cab Franc at times). Sorry I didn't had labels of tech sheet done up yet!" The Quote: “We had dinner at the same table as Karl Kovacs; there were two of them, along with their wives. One was a wine agent, the other was a consultant appraiser...what are the odds?” The Wines: * Tokaj Yellow Muscat 2006 (Pukus Cellar), gold medalist, +46508, $13.95 * Badacsonyi Muscat Ottonel 2004 (Domaine Szeremley), +655308, $14.95 * John Szabo Cabernet Franc 2005 * Sinai Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 * Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2002 (Puklus Cellar), +47209, $34.95 500 mL The Food: we drank the wine with the food. Appetizers began with a cheese platter; the blue was perfect with the off-sweet and full-bodied Yellow Muscat – just peachy with pineapple acidity. Hot platters circulated with beef kebabs, kielbasa strudel and spinach strudel. The white wine cut through the fat of the strudels, but it fell flat against the beef. The chicken breast a la bakony (with saffron rice and steamed vegetables) matched well with the Muscat Ottonel, which was off-dry, with apricot tones, and was a good counterpoint to the poultry. Beef filet with red wine reduction (spiced potato mash, buttered asparagus) was paired with John Szabo’s wine and the Sinai Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. The deep aromas and the cassis nature of the latter wine went better with the beef, a heavier dish than normal. The Szabo Cabernet Franc (Kekfrankos) had fruited berries and seemed too closed at this point, needing time. For dessert, we had gundel crepes with walnut filling and a chocolate sauce. Of course, Tokaji is a perfect match for the tannins in the walnuts and the strength of the chocolate. Mr. Vaski also handed out some Belgian chocolate calling cards, and these were a treat with the overripe and marmalade-y Tokaji as well. We left just after the party was gearing up for some fast action dancing with the trio accompanying... The Downside: the dinner was skedded for 7 PM. We started an hour late but everybody seemed to be having a great time anyway listening to the “gypsy trio” musicians and eating the appetizers, and noshing away. It was certainly a convivial time. The Upside: the music was terrific, as were the wines, of course. The Contact Person: Gabor Vaski, President of the HCC gvaski@cogeco.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 9. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:30 PM to 8 PM The Event: A portfolio tasting of Portfolio Wine & Spirits. The Venue: ArtCore Gallery, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine media, clientele. The Availability/Catalogue: as is typical, all products are here now or will be here, as consignment or as Vintages offerings. The Quote: “Hey, it is so cold outside – can we start with the Ports?” While there was a Banyuls Rimage 2005, unfortunately, there were neither ports nor spirits. The Wines: also at the tasting were some wines from Provinum wine agency, based in Quebec. The wines below were my picks **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Weingut Allram Gruner Veitliner Strasser Gaisberg 2005 ($22, Vintages) - Ch. Coupe-Roses Cuvee Granaxa 2004 Minervois ($20.75, Vintages) – the best wine here today, great finish. - Azienda Ada Narda Barbaresco 2000 ($42.95, Vintages Feb. 2008) - Champagne Louis de Sacy Cuvee Nue ($65) – no dosage added - Champagne Louis de Sacy Brut Grand Cru Soir 2001 ($77) - Giant Steps Innocent Bystander Sexton Harry’s Monster 2004 ($34.95) – Bordeaux blend with petit verdot. *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Dom. Michelas St.Jemms Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2005 ($23.95 Vintages) - Agr. Agrilandia Fortulla 2000 Terreatico di Bibbona ($45) – 50/50 CS and CF, super Tuscan strength. - Ruggeri Prosecco Argeo ($14.95 Vintages) - Jarrah Ridge Merlot 2004 Western Australia ($17.95) - Koura Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($20.95 Vintages) - Eden Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2004 Paso Robles ($45) - Dom. Des Pasquiers 2006 Cotes du Rhone ($14.95) The Food: Quebec cheeses, beef and lamb and pasta cooked by Leo Baduria hiumself, Italian artisanal olives, breads, crackers, condiments. The Downside: the power went off at 4 PM or so, and stayed off until 7. It was a true blind tasting. Luckily, there were candles available. The Upside: some terrific wines paired with terrific foods. The Contact Person: Leo Baduria wineportfolio@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): before the darkness, it was a 90. 10. The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2PM to 4 PM The Event: The annual Sherry Tasting, sponsored by Wines from Spain and Federacion de Bodegas del Marco de Jerez. The Venue: Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, Church Street. The Target Audience: wine media, agents, LCBO. The Availability/Catalogue: all 10 wines are here, with one coming in March 2008. There were three from Gonzalez Byass (agent: Woodman), threee from Emilio Lustau (agent: Hanna), and three from Williams & Humbert (agent: P. Dandurand. One was from Grupo Estevez (agent: Charton Hobbs). The Quote: The Director General for the Regulating Council of Jerez (Cesar Saldana) led the tasting: “There’s an abundance of chalky soil, lots of limestone, and hence, calcium in the area”. The Wines and Food: we tasted ten sherries, from fino through to pedro ximenez. 1. Tio Pepe Fino (Woodman) with hand cut jamon Serrano, a good match even though the fino attenuated the salt in the ham. 2. Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa (Hanna) was a harder match, scoring against the white anchovies in vinegar. 3. Lustau Palo Cortado Peninsula (Hanna) was perfect with the marinated piquillo peppers despite a modest finish to the sherry. 4. Dos Cortados Palo Cortado 20 Anos VOS (Dandurand) was a highlight for me, and accompanied the chicken liver pate. I also tried the pate against the Peninsula and the Almirante Oloroso (the next wine). 5. Almirante Oloroso (Charton Hobbs) was a revelation. I seem to be moving, in my old age, from Palo Cortados to Dry Olorosos, still in the fino mode. It will be here March 1, 2008, Vintages, $17.95, and it was terrific stuff. Smoked Berkshire bacon was the appropriate food hit, to match the US oaking in the sherry. 6. Dry Sack Medium Dry (Dandurand) was a sipping sherry. The mushroom strudel actually went better with the previous Oloroso. 7. Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera, mahogany, off-sweet with a racy edge to the nose, medium finish, with preserved pears (I tasted the wines and left before the desserts came out). 8. Lustau East India Solera, clear brown, warm ambrosia, still evolving, with Manchego cheese and walnuts. 9. Walnut Brown, treacle all the way, served with Valdeon and quince paste (no walnuts?). 10. Noe Pedro Ximenez 30 Year Old, toffee syrup in a glass with Christmas pudding tones, with wildflower honey ice cream. The Downside: the affair started late, and I had to leave at 4 promptly. I tasted the sweet sherries, but I had to miss the food portions. The Upside: a good account of where Sherry is right now. The Contact Person: David Villanueva dvillanueva@mcx.es The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 11. The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 5:30PM to 8 PM The Event: Foster’s Wine Estates Holiday Party (actually, a portfolio tasting for some of the wines available in Ontario; these come from Australia, California and New Zealand). The Venue: Gibsone Jessop Gallery, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine media, and who knows? A lot of party people... The Availability/Catalogue: all wines, except some older ones and late arrivals, are at the LCBO, except where noted below. The Quote: “This is from palate to palette at the gallery (or is it palette to palate?). Something to satisfy every taste, from $9.95 to over $125 a bottle for those that were available at the LCBO” The Wines: there were over 77 wines; I did not taste them all. **** Four Stars (90 – 93 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Rosemount Show Reserve Traditional 2004 - Devil’s Lair Margaret River Chardonnay 2004, $39.95 - Stags’ Leap Napa Valley Chardonnay 2005, $29.95 - St. Clement Napa Valley Merlot 2002, +8714, $39.95 - Greg Norman Lake County Zinfandel, +38042, $23.95 - Stags’ Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, +996405, $54.95 - Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, +470120, $34.95 - Wolf Blass Black Label Shiraz Cabernet Malbec 2002, +960468, $89.95 - Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2004, +309625, $34.95 - Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2004, +564278, $125 - Chateau Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2001 Winemaker’s Reserve - Etude Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Napa - Penfolds Pinot Noir Adelaide Hills 2004 Cellar Reserve *** Three Stars (86 – 89 in Quality/Price Rating terms): - Wolf Blass Bilyara Reserve Chardonnay 2005, +8128), $13.95 - Gabbiano Pinot Grigio 2006, new General List in 2008, $12.95 - Rosemount Show Reserve Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2006 - Wolf Blass Gold Label Sparkling, +218518, $19.95 - Greg Norman Sparkling Pinot-Chardonnay 2003 - Matua Valley Paretai Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (consignment) - Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2006, +421644, $19.95 - Greg Norman Chardonnay 2005, +552083, $19.95 - Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay, +348342, $28.15 - Beringer Founders’ Estate Pinot Grigio 2006, new General List, $19.95 - Beringer Third Century Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, +47704, $23.95 - Wolf Blass Premium Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, +321927, $24.95 - Wynns Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2004, +511600, $19.95 - Saltram Mamre Brook Barossa Shiraz 2004, +32227, $21.95 - Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2004, +509919, $29.95 - Rosemount Mountain Blue Mudgee, +583138, Vintages $65, 60/40 shiraz- cabernet sauvignon. - Spragia Merlot 2003 Home Ranch The Food: stylish catering (spring rolls, rare beef toasts, veggie burgers, lamb lollipops, etc.). But no fish? Cheese board, nuts and fruit. The Downside: it got crowded really fast. The Upside: some wine media (those who had indicated) were let in early to a sitdown tasting at their leisure, from 3 to 5:30. The Contact Person: rama.zuniga@am.fostersgroup.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH * Cremant St-Nicolas Sparkling Light Cider (+61671, $10.95 GL): juice is from McIntosh and Cortland apples, and fermentation had been halted at 2.8% ABV. Thus, there is natural residual sugar, with a kick just half that of regular cider. Orchard fruit dominates the aromas, with both pear and apple tones (probably from some slight exposure to the air). Very refreshing for all occasions, it is especially useful for those who do not drink much but wish to be included in celebratory events. Absolutely perfect for brunches or lunches. This is the Ciderie St-Nicolas’ first shipment outside of Quebec. They make 15,000 cases. * Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (+396994, $13.95) is a quality sauv from Las Kuras in Cachapoal, Chile. It has 10% semillon, total MVC for the blend in a French style (the ownership is French: Grand Marnier), some tropicality. Best with appetizers. * Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2005 (+405712, $16.95) is from Rapel in Chile, and of course was done up in French oak (for 30%). Juicy, not quite Bordeaux style, good sipper with coffee-chocolate-vanilla tones, maybe with those salads with a fruit-based vinaigrette. 1. The Time and Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 4 PM to 7 PM The Event: A Chilean food and wine event. Chef Pilar Rodriguez has flown in from Chile to cook this week in Toronto. The tasting menu was at Reds all this week. The Venue: Reds Bistro The Target Audience: wine and food media The Availability/Catalogue: wines varied as to availability. The Quote: “The tasting menu is fine for the consumer to appreciate modest-cost Chilean wines. But I would appreciate more expensive wines so that I could see how well they pair with food, to take on the Euro wines, at a price point of, say, $45 LCBO price.” The Wines and Food: * Seared Scallops in Garlic Perfumed Olive Oil and Pebre Verde Chilean Shrimp, Yellow Chili and Pink Grapefruit Cervice (Miguel Torres Brut Pinot Noir NV, a youthful sparkler, dusty finish with hot climate style, $15, Pacific Wines and Spirits) * King Crab Marinated in Tangerine Dressing, Celery, Fennel and Red Onion Salad, (Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2006, $13.95 General List, green tones, grass and herbs flavours, medium, crisp, fresh and easy to drink). * Corn and Sea Food Crème Brûlée (Concha Y Toro Winemaker's Lot #7 Chardonnay 2006 Limari, $15.95 Vintages, pineapple, some sweet and spicy fruit, lots of body, long smokey finish, toast). * Caramelized Baby Pork Ribs with Ulmo Honey and Pan Seared Pork Loin, Onion Marmalade, Potatoes Sauteed in Merquen Olive Oil and Fresh Thyme; Baby Green Salad (Viu Manent Carmenere Reserva 2005 ($15.95 Vintages, concentrated colours and flavours, black fruit, some menthol, sweet on the mid-palate resolving to a full-toasted long crisp peppery finish.14.5% ABV) * Pan Seared Lamb Chops with rosemary and Garlic Infused Olive Oil, Sweet Potato Purée, Garlic Confit, Cherry Tomatoes and Mint Salad (Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Max Reserva 2005 ($17.95 General List, (cedar and smoke, vanillin, some condensed milk on the nose, cassis and black plums on the palate, soft finish. Some merlot and petit verdot here, 14.5% ABV) * Seared Beef Tenderloin, Mushrooms and Sun Dried Tomatoes, Creamy Barley Wheat, Baby Arugula Salad (Errazuriz Cab was offered again: why not another wine? It went better with the beef than with the lamb). * Lucuma and Quinoa Mousse, Berries and Lavender Salad, Carica Semifreddo with Seared Carica and toasted Almond Salad (Concha Y Toro Vendanges Tardives Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Particulière 2004 Maule, $12.50 half-bottle in Quebec only, Select Wines, honeyed peach with a botrytis, half of the wine is BA, 5% riesling added for acid.).. The Downside: it was skedded for 4 PM, but we didn’t start until 4:45, which was a shame since several people left at 6 – midway through the meal. The Upside: Chef Pilar spoke to many of the dishes, while wine reps and agents spoke to the wines. The Contact Person: rachelle@torchiacom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): lateness counts – 83. 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 3, 2007 2PM to 4:30 PM The Event: Chilean Wine Festival The Venue: Fermentations Cellar, Distillery District The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: a high slim booklet, with copious data on all the wines: names, regions, vintage years (some incorrect), varietals, availability, prices. Wines were sorted by agent. Wines could be purchased through the General List, Vintages, Consignment, and private orders. The Quote: “Great food, lots of room, but it seems lightly attended. Lots of elbow space.” The Wines: I did not taste all the wines. Here are my faves, with a QPR number. **** Four Stars (90 – 93): - Casa Marin Gewurztraminer 2007 Casona Vineyard ($35, Tannin Fine Wines) - Casa Silva Viognier/Sauvignon Gris/Chardonnay Quinta Generacion 2005 ($19.95, Churchill, but Vintages in July 2008) - Garces Silva Chardonnay Amayna 2005 Leyda ($24.75, Whitehall) - Haras de Pirque Albis 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere Maipo ($56.95, Mark Anthony) - Luis Felipe Edwards Shiraz Gran Reserva 2006 Colchagua ($14.95, Classique) - Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2005 Casablanca ($23.95, Whitehall). - Montes Alpha Syrah 2005 Colchagua ($23.95, Whitehall) - MontGras Ninquen 2004 Colchagua Cabernet Sauvignon ($27.95, Kirkwood Group) - Morande Red Blend 2003 Maipo ($47.25, Majestic) - San Esteban Laguna del Inca 2006 Syrah/Cab/Carm/Sangiovese Aconcagua ($24.95, MCO) - Castillo de Molina Chardonnay 2006 Reserva Casablanca ($13.20, Corby’s) - Santa Rita Chardonnay Medalla Real 2005 Casablanca ($18.95, Vintages) - Santa Rita Triple C Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere 2004 Maipo ($44.95 but moving to $70 with next vintage, Mark Anthony) - Tabali Shiraz Reserva 2006 Limari ($16.95. Vintages) - Veramonte Primus 2006 Casablanca Carmenere/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon ($20, Churchill Cellars) *** Three Stars (86 – 89): - Valdivieso Malbec Single Vineyard ($22.60, Carriage House) - Casa Silva Cabernet/Carmenere/Petit Verdot Quinta Generacion 2004 ($21.95, Churchill Cellars) - Casas del Bosque Chardonnay 2006 Casablanca ($14.95, Vintages Dec 2007, Lorac) - Miguel Torres Gewurztraminer/Riesling 2007 Santa Digna ($15.95, Pacific Wines) - Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection 2007 Leyda ($15.15, Whitehall) - Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($23.95, Whitehall) - Perez Cruz Syrah Limited Edition 2005 Maipo ($24.95, Vintages) - Santa Alicia Chardonnay Reserva 2006 Maipo ($10.75, General List Eurovintage) - Santa Carolina Chardonnay Reserva de Familia 2006 Casablanca ($17.95, Charton-Hobbs) - Tabali Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005 Limari ($14.95, Connexion Oenophilia) - Tabali Carmenere Reserva 2006 ($14.95, Connexion Oenophilia) - Veramonte Chardonnay Reserva 2006 Casablanca ($13.95, Churchill Cellars) - VIA Sauvignon Blanc Chilcas Aguas Fresca 2007 Casablanca ($19.95, Vergina) - VIA Pinot Noir Chilcas Piedra Feliz 2006 Maule ($19.95, Vergina) The Food: fabulous cheeses, empanadas (chicken and/or beef), salsas, plus two separate stations for trying food with red or white wines (a seviche and a chicken-pesto station). The Downside: some of the lighting was too diffused, which made reading the catalogue difficult in the corners. Also, it took me about 20 minutes to register (and this cut into my tasting time), even though I had RSVPed. This wait needs to be fixed, especially since I noticed that people around me seemed to be in a bad mood from the wait. At least we could have been offered the catalogue to peruse. I just used my MP3 player, listening to a Bing Crosby radio show from 1944. I just thought that you’d like to know that... The Upside: great food, some interesting high end wines. The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 4, 2007 Noon to 2:30 PM The Event: a tasting with Alexandra Marnier Lapostelle, chairwoman of Casa Lapostelle in Chile. She had photos of the $20 million Clos Apalta winery in the Colchagua Valley. She conducted a wide-ranging discussion on wines in Chile, the wine industry, organic standards, and age- ability of wines. The Venue: Pangaea. The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in the system at various stages. They all have CSPC numbers. For current availability, check with Trilogy. The Quote: “Organic and biodynamics are the buzzwords of the Chilean agriculture industry. They contend that all of Chile is pest-free, and hence just about everything is organic”. The Wines: * Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay 2005 ($32.95), rich, spicy malic nose, tropical and stone fruit with citric finish. Good solid toast from French oak barrels (new and used). * Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Syrah 2005 ($35.95), spicy olive, black stuff everywhere (blackberry, anise, herbs), massive-bodied and dense. Mocha tones. * Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34.95), MVC Bordeaux-like (cedar, tobacco leaf and cassis), black fruit with mocha, lots of extract, fine backbone. * Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2004 ($96), 84% Carmenère-Merlot equally, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, thick creaminess to the texture, some blueberry and blackcurrant, plush-lush palate, balanced. The 2005 vintage is totally hand-destemmed by 80 or more women. * Casa Lapostolle Borobo 2002 ($96) was sprung on us blindly, although we had a price list so we knew how expensive it was. We had to guess its provenance. First off, it had garrigue. That took care of any lavender and herbs. Then there was soft mocha (coffee and chocolate). Spices included fennel seed. Berries were dark. Cherries were noticed. Of course, we all guessed it as a blend of Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Rhone grapes. Just kidding. But 35% Syrah from Las Kuras Vineyard in Requinoa, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon from Apalta Vineyard, 20% Carmenère from Apalta Vineyard, 15% Pinot Noir from Atalayas Vineyard in Casablanca and 10% Merlot from Apalta Vineyard. I asked how much Pinot Noir the company made, and they do 300 cases on an experimental basis. The rest (the best) goes into Borobo. Here’s a Chilean wine that ages well. The Food: we began with a scallop and wild mushroom app, laid out on a plate of finely sliced beets which formed a platform (great presentation). The good solid toast of the chardonnay paired well. The main was braised lamb shank with al dente white beans and veggies. A cheese platter helped us clean up the wines. Great bread. The Downside: We started a half-hour late, which pushed back a few appointments. The Upside: Due to some confusion, the order of the wines was not explained, and so it began as a semi-blind tasting. Good wines shine well with good food. The Contact Person: trilogy@on.aibn.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 4. The Time and Date: Friday, October 5, 2007 11 AM to 1:30 PM The Event: a standup tasting of wines from Domodimonti, Montefiore dell’Aso, Marches region. The Venue: Crush Wine Bar. The Target Audience: wine press, importers. The Availability/Catalogue: the winery is looking for an agent in Ontario; it has representation in Quebec. There is also olive oil. The Quote: ‘It is hard to get an expensive wine on the marketplace.” The Wines: we tasted three wines, all hand harvested and put up in French oak barrels. Quality shows, if you can pay. * Picens 2004 ($25), 5 – 6 months French oak barrels, a good blend but pricey. Part montepulciano, sangiovese, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon. Red fruit all the way, needs cellaring for awhile. * Il Messia 2004 ($45), 12 – 14 months French oak barrels, a step up but lots of berry fruit. 50-50 montepulciano and merlot. Vanilla tones, soft on palate. * Solo per Te 2005 ($75), 14 – 16 months in French oak barrels, 100% montepulciano. Long, long finish. The Food: nibbles from Crush The Downside: light attendance. The Upside: a pleasant way to while away the pre-Thanksgiving period. The Contact Person: benedetta.marassi.toronto@ice.it. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 2:30PM – 6 PM The Event: “Art in a Glass” – a wine tasting of Portugal’s G7 wine producers, The Venue: Ontario College of Art and Design The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers, LCBO, private consumers. The Availability/Catalogue: a full range of wines were presented, both entry level and high end, some on the General List, others Vintages, and still more on Consignment. The catalogue was full (and mostly correct), with vintages, regions, agents’ names, names of the grape varietals, and alcohol content. Its only drawback was its physical structure: the letter size paper in a spiral binding was too big and floppy. The Quote: A highly placed official told me “Sogrape has left the group, but J. Portugal Ramos has every intention of joining”. The Wines: we actually tasted only six producers since Sogrape has left. With J. Portugal Ramos in line for joining, three of the new G7 will be repped in Ontario by FWP Trading. I did not taste every wine. Here are my quality/price ratings (value for the dollar) for my faves: **** Four Stars (90 – 93): - Quinta da Garrida Reserva 2003 Alianca ($24.95, PMA Canada) - Quinta das Baceladas Bairrada 2004 Alianca ($21.95, PMA Canada) - Quinta dos Quatro Ventos Douro 2005 ($27.95, PMA Canada) - Aveleda Follies Alvarinho 2006 ($15.95, Vintages) - Aveleda Follies Touriga Nacional/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($22, Maxxium) - Tinto da Anfora Grande Escolha 2005 Bacalhoa ($40, FWP Trading) - Palacio da Bacalhoa 2004 ($45, FWP Trading) - Esporao Reserve White 2006 Finagra ($17.95, Vintages) - Esporao Reserve Red 2004 Finagra ($25.95, Vintages) - Periquita White 2006 Jose Maria da Fonseca ($9.45, P. Dandurand) - Quinta de Camarate 2005 Fonseca ($14.95, P. Dandurand) - Dao Quinta de Penedo 2006 Messias ($21.95, Signature) *** Three Stars (86 – 89) - Quinta da Garrida Dao 2004 Alianca ($13.95, PMA Canada) - Charambra 2005 Aveleda Douro ($8.65, General List) - Aveleda Follies Chardonnay/Maria Gomes 2006 ($18.95, Vintages) - Meia Pipa 2005 Bacalhoa ($15.15, FWP Trading) - So Touriga 2003 Bacalhoa ($24.80, FWP Trading) - Monte Velho Red 2006 Finagra ($12.95, Vintages) - Vinha da Defesa Red 2005 ($22.71 licensee, FWP Trading) - Periquita Reserva 2004 Fonseca ($14.95, P. Dandurand) - Quinta do Cachao Touriga Franca 2004 Douro Messias ($21.45, Signature) - Quinta do Cachao Grande Escolha 2004 Douro Messias ($23.45, Signature) The Food: La Petite Fete did the catering – great chicken liver pate, smoked trout on scallion biscuits, polenta with goat cheese, plus assorted quality cheeses (blues, cheddars, triple cremes, etc.) at room temperature. The Downside: I couldn’t take home any of the meerkat figurines which were on display. The Upside: lots of room to hang out, and some friends to talk over the wine. The Contact Person: william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84 (it was lightly attended, many people were still away over Thanksgiving). 6. The Time and Date: Monday, October 22, 2007 3 PM to 10:00 PM The Event: “Family of Wines” Gala Tasting, from the STEM Wine Group. The Venue: Air Canada Center Platinum Club The Target Audience: private customers, wine media, restaurants The Availability/Catalogue: just about everything was consignment or private purchase. We were given a large stiff order card with the prices, as well as a catalogue in table order with prices. The Quote: “[musical quotes from the jazz band]” I actually spoke to nobody since I was racing through. At that time of night, people were just enjoying themselves. The Wines: about 85 wines were presented, but I could not taste them all. Here are my rankings: -- **** Four Stars (90 – 93): - Boroli Barolo "Villero" 1997 (tar, roses, violets, earth, tobacco, anise) was the best wine of the event – easily. ($94.95) - Buglioni Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso "Il Bugiardo" 2004 ($34.95) - Vigneti Villabella Amarone "Fracastoro" 2000 15.5% ABV ($59.95) - Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2003 ($34.95) - Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino "25 Anni" 2004 ($124.95) - Pavilion Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa ($23.95) *** Three Stars (86 – 89) - Giovanni Viberti Barolo “Buon Padre” 2001 ($54.95) - Baroli Barolo “Villero” Riserva 1998 ($94.95) - Di Giulio Grasso Moscato d’Asti 2006 ($21.95) - Di Giulio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo “Bric del Baio” 2004 ($25.95) - Buglioni Amarone della Valpolicella 2003 ($64.95) - La Marcellina Chianti Classico Sassocupo Riserva 2003 ($39.95) - Malenchini Bruzzico IGT Sangiovese & Cab Sauv 2003 ($29.95) - Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($100) - Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino “Fontelontano” Riserva 2001 ($79.95) - Fattoria di Magliano “Poggio Bestiale” IGT Maremma Toscana 2005 ($49.95) - Monteti IGT Maremma Toscana 2004 ($54.95) - D’Alessandro “Maiestatis” Primitivo del Tarantino Riserva 2002 ($23.95) - Bodegas Darien Rioja Seleccion 2002 ($39.95) - Jax Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Napa ($59.95) The Food: I arrived very late, at 9 PM, due to other commitments, so I really don’t know what the total food was. There was one hot breaded chicken breast left, half a Parmigiano Reggiano wheel, bread, and mushroom risotto. Plus fresh fruit. The Downside: all of the few Australian and Californian wines were on two side by side tables which were to one side of a bulge by the bar. The resulting bottleneck was horrendous since most people wanted to quaff and talk in this area, rather than sip and think. The Upside: great wines and food, pleasant company with some winemakers. The Contact Person: drew@stemwinegroup.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 7. The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 11 AM to 2 PM The Event: The Tokaj Renaissance Tasting (the group was founded in 1985) The Venue: Chez Victor, Hotel Le Germain The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers The Availability/Catalogue: varies. We tasted 10 Tokaj at the tutorial and a variety of other wines with lunch. The Quote: “The grape varieties are oxidative. Tokaj can have five grape types: furmint (60% of total grown) and harslevelu (30%) dominate.” The Wines: -Oremus Mandolas 2005 ($24.95), dry, slightly oxidative, new Hungarian oak, aged 7 months on lees in barrel. Good acidity for food. -Hetszolo Tokaj Harslevelu 2005: 2/3 harslevelu, Late Harvest style with fresh aromatics, rich mouthfeel, peaches and almonds, stainless steel. -Disznoko Tokaj Aszu 4 putts 2001 ($30): barrel aged for two years, brisk finishing acid, very refreshing. -Patricius Tokaj Aszu 5 putts 2002: 150 g/l residual sugar, candied nose, okay acid. -Hetszolo Tokaj Aszu 5 putts 2001: some wood and oxidative qualities. -Oremus Tokaj Aszu 5 putts 2000: barrel fermented in new Hungarian oak for 60 days, aged in oak for 2.5 years. -Megyer Tokaj Aszu 5 putts 1999: aged in Hungarian oak for 2.5 years (50% new), made with 50% muscat and 50% furmint in the putts, with deliberate muscat overtones. The peach elements make all the difference here. The base wine was 100% muscat. My fave of the tasting. -Patricius Tokaj Aszu 6 putts 2000: 165 g/l residual sugar, and with higher acidity. -Disznoko Tokaj Aszu 6 putts 1999: aszu had 70% furmint, 30% zeta; the base had 90% furmint, 10% harslevelu, fermented in stainless steel, and aged two years in oak (some new). Good depth and oxidative character. My second fave wine. -Pajzos Aszuesszencia 1999: over 180 g/l residual sugar, excessively sweet (needed more acid), rich but not oxidative. Many of the other wines being served for the lunch and mini-trade show afterwards were Dry Furmint and Late Harvest wines from recent vintages of the six members of the Renaissance group. John Szabo has a list. The Food: from Chef David Chrystian, to match the wines available. -Niagara charcuterie and Berkshire pork terrine with apricot gel -braised lamb shank paprikash (off the bone) with gnocchi and bell peppers, tomatoes, onions -apple and date strudel with cream cheese ice cream. Zoltan Szabo walked around with a variety of wines to pour. The clear winner was a 1993 Tokaj Aszu 6 putts with the lamb! Bravo!! The Downside: we had about 24 other wines with lunch, but there was not a list or a real sense of availability and prices. Nor were all the wines opened at once, which made for considerable “back and forth” to sample them with the meal. The Upside: John Szabo described the process. The Contact Person: John Szabo info@thecva.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 8, The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 2PM to 5 PM The Event: media launch for the 13th Annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo, to be held at the Metro Convention Centre on November 15 to 18. The Venue: Jacobs & Co., Brant Street The Target Audience: wine press, media in general. There was a panel presentation of what goodies we can all expect at the show (tastings, food demos, etc.) The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted some wines from the Chile producers who will be front and center at the show, the themed region. The Quote: “It was hard to find the place: there were no signs” The Wines: about 16 wines were available for sampling. They were all entry level. The best were the Errazuriz Max Reserva 2005 Merlot and the Max Shiraz (both $17.95). The bargain Santa Alicia Chardonnay 2006 showed some nice petillance. The Concha y Toro Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2006 was zesty, twist topped. The Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva 2005 was smooth. The best was the Fresita Sparkler (Whitehall Agencies, $13.95, +56697), a blend of chardonnay and other wines with hand-picked strawberries from Patagonia. Great aperitif or quaffer, about 8% ABV. The Food: passarounds, steak tartare, cheeses. The Contact Person: kcalderbank@townmedia.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 9. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: Grandi Marchi Iconic Wines of Italy; a Vintages Taste and Buy Event The Venue: King Edward Hotel The Target Audience: the afternoon was for the trade and media The Availability/Catalogue: All wines were available in some form, either as exclusive to the event or as Vintages offerings on specified dates (or already here). Most wines were exclusive. The Quote: “Digitus tinto reigns supreme at this tasting: heavy, dark wine stains on the fingers and thumbs” The Wines: the Grandi Marchi is a group of 18 wineries, from all regions of Italy. They specialize in high quality wines, not necessarily at high prices. Many of the principals were here at the tasting to answer any questions. Best wine: Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2005 Toscana ($169.95, Vintages Feb 2, 2008: load up!) with deep structure, 4.5 stars. **** Four Stars (90 – 93): - Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2001 ($61.95, Vintages) - Ca del Bosco Brut Sparkling Wine Franciacorta ($38, Vintages) - Gaja Pieve Santa Restitua Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino 2001 ($150, exclusive) - Gaja Sperss 2001 Langhe Nebbiolo ($259, Classics) - Masi Campololongo di Torbe Amarone Classico 2001 ($85, Vintages) *** Three Stars (86 – 89) - Marchesi Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 ($39.95, Vintages) - Marchesi Antinori Guado al Tasso 2003 ($81.95, Vintages) - Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001 ($99, Classics) - Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio 2003 ($85, exclusive) - Folonari Campo al Mare 2005 Bolgheri ($34, exclusive) - Alois Lageder Benefizium Porer Pinot Grigio 2006 ($28, exclusive) - Alois Lageder Krafuss Pinot Nero 2004 ($50, exclusive) - Pio Cesare Barolo 2003 ($62.95, Vintages) - Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 2003 ($99, exclusive) - Rivera Puer Apuliae 2004 Nero di Troia ($43, exclusive) - Tasca d’Almerita Rosso del Conte 2004 ($69, exclusive) - Umani Ronchi Pelago 2004 ($44, exclusive) The Food: cheeses and breads and crackers, dried fruit. The Downside: my ticket got lost in the mail despite my email RSVP. But they took me anyway. The Upside: a light attendance during the day meant that many dilettantes did not turn up, saving me some conversational grief. The Contact Person: rose.holness@lcbo.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 10. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3 PM to 7 PM The Event: a partial portfolio tasting at Select Wines, celebrating 25 years with a new look and logo. The Venue: Toronto offices on Queen Street The Target Audience: wine press, restaurants, private customers. The Availability/Catalogue: we had a price list and tech sheets. All wines were available. There was a separate room for sake and Japanese beer, neither of which I sampled (although I tasted their sushi). The Quote: “The Vancouver Head Office was having a full portfolio tasting; this is only a partial” The Wines: **** Four Stars (90 – 93): - Escudo Rojo 2005 Baron Rothschild Chile ($13.80) - Montalto Nero d’Avola – Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($8.95) – bargain, 14% ABV - Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2006 Casablanca ($11.75, February 2008 General List) *** Three Stars (86 – 89) - Jindalee Shiraz 2004 Australia ($10.05, General) - Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2005 ($18.99, Consignment) - Sebastiani Sonoma County Merlot 2002 ($20.75) The Food: tomatoes, pate, sushi, cold cuts, cheeses, breads, fruit. The Downside: I had just walked over from the Grandi Marchi with an overflowed tasting palate. The Upside: there were plenty of good wine values, and the North American fruit character appeal was a nice counterpoint to the Euro wines of the previous tasting. The Contact Person: haddleton@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 11. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 25, 2007 12 PM to 5 PM The Event: Acceso Canada 2007: tour of Spanish wine producers looking for agents and distribution in Ontario. Sponsored by the Economic and Commercial Office of the Embassy of Spain. The Venue: Roof lounge, Park Hyatt Hotel The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers, restaurants, trade. The Availability/Catalogue: very informative booklet, with all the relevant data of names and addresses, labels, background text, etc. But no FOB prices. The Quote: “There are some nice wines here, but few to compete against existing wines at the LCBO Vintages” The Wines: 19 wineries had presentations. **** Four Stars (90 – 93): - Bodegas Bleda Divus Monastrell 2005 Jumilla (FOB 7 Euros) - Bodegas San Isidro Sabatcha Syrah 2006 (2.5 Euros) - La Coleccion Tenere Crianza 2004 Rioja (4.2 Euros) - Bodegas Franco-Espanolas Baron d’Anglade Reserva 2001 Rioja ($40 in Quebec) - Bodegas del Medievo MDV 2004 Rioja (100% graciano) (12 Euros) - Liberalia Enologica Cuatro 2003 Toro (5.53 Euros) - Bodegas Marques de Velilla Doncel de Mataperras 2004 Ribera del Duero (15.25 Euros) - Finca Los Nevados Tempranillo-Petit Verdot 2004 La Mancha Tierra de Castilla (4.8 Euros, $19.95 consignment) *** Three Stars (86 – 89) - Bodegas Bleda Castillo de Jumilla Crianza 2004 (FOB 3 Euros) - Bodegas San Isidro Genus Monastrell/Syrah NV (3 Euros) - Bodegas Franco-Espanolas Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva 1999 ($25 in Quebec) - Rosalia de Castro Paco & Lola Albarino 2005 Rias Baixas (5 Euros) - Adegas Moure Fuga Mencia 2006 Ribeira Sacra (3.21 Euros) - Abadia de Acon Crianza 2003 Ribera del Duero (7.9 Euros) The Food: roast beef, lobster (but only a few white table wines were offered), crab cakes, cheeses, breads, etc. The Downside: several producers were coy about FOB prices. I needed them for a marker of quality/price ratios. The Upside: a good cross-section of wines which are available on the export market, and an indicator of where Spain is at right now. The Contact Person: toronto@mcx.es The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 12. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 25, 2007 2:30 PM to 4:30 PM The Event: Hungarian wine tasting, sponsored by Dr. Sándor Beer Consul General of the Republic of Hungary. The Venue: Consulate Offices, Bloor Street. The Target Audience: wine press and Hungarian restaurateurs. The Availability/Catalogue: uncertain, many would have to be privately ordered. The Quote: “Many of these wines are quite fine: it is just a matter of getting a price that could be acceptable to people” The Wines: There were 24 Hungarian wines from 6 producers in 5 distinct regions (Badascony, Balatonboglari, Eger, Székszárd and Tokaji. 1. Elsõ Magyar Borház - Szeremley Huba Muscat Ottonel 2006 – dry side Badacsonyi borvidék - Badacsonytomaj Szemelt Rizling 2006 Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 – refreshingly good, one of the better wines Pinot Noir 2006 – Fehér – a white pinot noir, like still champagne. Pinot Noir 2005 – good but youthful Zeusz 2002 (kései szüret - édes - 0.5l) 2. Konyári Szõlõbirtok - Konyári János Ikon 2005 (Cabernet - Merlot) Balatonboglári borvidék - Balatonlelle Loliense 2005 (Cabernet Sauvignon) Loliense 2006 (Chardonnay - Sauvignon Blanc) – and with some Riesling added. Jánoshegyi Kékfrankos 2005 Szárhegy Cuveé /fehér/ 2006 3. Rai Vini - Grassi Uria Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (wine bag - 5l) Egri borvidék - Ostoros Cuvée Elia 2006 (Cabernet & Merlot) – but in a Riesling bottle shape! Pinot Noir 2006 Sauvignon Blanc 2006 - youthful 4. Márkvárt Pincészet - Márkvárt János Márkvárt Cuveé 2005 Szekszárdi borvidék - Szekszárd Márkvárt Olaszrizling 2006 5. Palota Borház - Benza György Furmint 2003 Vinalies 2007 - ezüstérem Tokaji borvidék -Tállya Hárslevelû 2004 (félszáraz) Vinalies 2007 - ezüstérem Aszú 6 puttonyos 2002 Balatonboglári borvidék - Látrány Tisli 2006 (Rajnai Rizling) Palota Rubin 2003 (Cabernet Sauvignon) -- best red wine here, full of character and extract, obviously from the warm vintage. 6. Alexander Pincészet - Badacsony Badacsonyi Olaszrizling 2003 The Food: Hungarian delicacies were promised, but I only saw meatballs, some cheese slices, and good pastries (which only went with the Tokay). The Downside: the room was hot and stuffy, not conducive to tasting properly. The Upside: good speech from Zoltan Szabo about the wines. The Contact Person: jszabo@thecva.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 81. 13. The Time and Date: Friday, October 26, 2007, 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: a Royal Tokai Wine Company tasting with Hugh Johnson, co- founder and noted wine writer. The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square, Private Tasting Room. The Target Audience: wine press – who turned out in droves. The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted four wines with different availabilities. The Quote: “Upcoming releases include an Essencia 1999 ($535), a Tamas 6 Put. 1999 ($81), an Aszu Essencia 1995 ($189), an Aszu Betsek 1999 6 Put. ($69), and a Aszu Nyulaszo 1996 6 Put. ($78)” The Wines: - 2005 Dry Furmint ($12.95, Vintages Oct 13/07): ripe nose, some mint, leafy veggies, good mouthfeel, longer length, finishes citric, slight muscat quality. - 2000 Blue Label Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos (250 mL, $19.95 Vintages Nov 10, 2007): bright nose, marmalade, some OXO aromas, tea leaf and dried fruit flavours, some soft acid on the finish. - 1995 Tokaji Aszu Birsalmas 5 Puttonyos (500 mL, $49, not available): smokey, slight OXO beefiness to nose, toffee and barley sugar and caramel, some treacle; intense, - 1999 Gold Label Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos (500 mL, $55, private order): lots of acidity and development, still needs time to resolve. Cooked orange and lemon tone. Smokey. Persistent finish. The Food: shrimp and veggie nests, pate, blue cheese, bread and crackers. The Downside: the room was crowded. The Upside: a chance to meet Hugh Johnson the writer (Wine Atlas) The Contact Person: HHD Imports info@hhdimports.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 14. The Time and Date: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 6PM to 8 PM The Event: a tasting of Finca Los Nevados, lead by Rodrigo Bravo, the Export Manager. The Venue: Torito Tapas Bar, downstairs. The Target Audience: wine press and trade The Availability/Catalogue: wines are currently by consignment through Estate Wine Cellars. The marketing thrust of the company is to focus on the hospitality segment (hotels, restaurants, and wine clubs). The Quote: “Our wine region is Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla in La Mancha; we produce 450,000 bottles a year.” The Wines: we tasted four wines. The company specializes in blends, making only a Viognier, a Syrah and a Merlot (in 2007) as single varietals. * Finca Los Nevados Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($15.95); normally I don’t like this kind of blend. But at a warmer temperature the 60 Chardonnay/40 Sauvignon Blanc creation came through with tropical zestiness and a brisk finish, aided by the 14.5% ABV. * Finca Los Nevados Cabernet Sauvignon-Garnacha 2004 ($15.95): this 50/50 blend was very dense, starting as cab near the front and finishing as garnacha (grenache) near the end. 13.5% ABV. * Finca Los Nevados Tempranillo-Petit Verdot 2004 ($19.95): this was their higher end wine, rich and fruity, very Euro and food friendly, with a long length. 13.5% ABV. My fave of the evening. * Finca Los Nevados Syrah 2004 ($16.95): fresh Rhonish tones but it may be a hard sell in an Ontario market awash with Shiraz/Syrah from different countries. Very elegant, mid-way to Euro style, worth a try at this price level. The Food: there were five sets of tapas, beginning with stuffed olives, followed by Serrano ham with olive oil and bread. Then we had a sausage (lamb?) with a bite, and with pear tomatoes and beans. Next up was a hot chorizo with roasted potatoes, and last: a stunning whitefish steak with peppers and onions. The best accompanying wines were the garnacha and petit verdot blends, and the white. The Downside: it was lightly attended. The Upside: a great collection of tapas to play off against the fine wines. The Contact Person: glen@estatewinecellars.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 15. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: a vertical tasting with John Kolasa, the Managing Director of Chateau Rauzon-Segla (2nd growth Margaux) and Chateau Canon (1er Grand Cru Classe St.Emilion). The Venue: Opus on Prince Arthur The Target Audience: wine press, private customers, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: one wine is at Vintages, one is an Internet offer through Vintages, one is en primeur, and five are private order. The Quote: “Since the mid-1990s, these two wineries have benefited from the dynamic ownership of the Chanel perfume company, which dramatically overhauled the vineyards and cellars.” The Wines: * Clos Canon GC 2003 ($49, Internet offer): strong merlot MVC and character, basic wine with good value from the estate, ready now, drinking well and approachable from the hotter climate of 2003. * Chateau Canon 1er GCC 2005 ($175, private order): tight structure, fruit shy at this point, but later opened up after half an hour. * Chateau Canon 1er GCC 2000 ($200, private order): developing good aromas, cedarish, full and luscious, long length, and a winner. * Chateau Canon 1er GCC 1998 ($130, private order): good intensity as a St.Emilion, chewy, still needed time but smoothed out over the course of the tasting. * Segla 2003 ($51.95, +713263): showed more cabernet sauvignon quality, great personality from that hot climate vintage of 2003, long length, very Bordeaux-like. Affordable, and ready NOW: very useful as a “bring your own wine” item or host gift. * Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2eme Margaux 2005 ($175, en primeur): depth of cassis and leafy flavours, extremely dense and youthful. * Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2eme Margaux 2001 ($130, private order): milder, more black fruits, resolved tannins, tastes older than it is, good finish. My fave of the tasting. * Chateau Rauzan-Segla 2eme Margaux 1998 ($135, private order): reticent nose, hard edge and tannins, needs more resolution. The Food: bread and water. The Downside: most of the wines are still far from approachable, but they are getting there. The initial trick became a treat!! The Upside: good contact with few people, an in-depth tasting. The Contact Person: Adrian Williamson, Tastevin Selections 905-456- 8287. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH =================================== * Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2002 Puklus Cellars (+47209, $34.95 retail, 500mL, Vintages): 80% furmint and 20% harslevelu, from a harvest affected by an early Indian summer. Botrytisation produced overripeness (bananas, dried peaches and apricots), honeyed tones. Some nuttiness from the three years in small barrels, 5 puttonyos aszu wine. Gold medalist (twice) in 2007. Food recommendations are typical: foie gras, blue cheese, on its own. * Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2006 Puklus Cellars Hungary (+46508, $13.95 retail, 750 mL, Vintages): related to Muscat Blanc, from older vines, done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium- bodied, but with lemons on the longer finish. Gold medalist (twice) in 2007. Serve with later courses (fruity mains, salads, cheeses, desserts). * Flat Roof Manor Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese 2005 Stellenbosch (+27110, $13.95 General): 70% cabernet, 30% sangiovese, and all red fruit domination with oak tones from the largely (90%) French wood. 13.5% ABV, could use another year in the cellar. Some plummy character, plus some smoke and bacon. Twist top, of course. SC of one. TRADE EVENTS ============ The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 5, 2007 2 – 4:30 PM The Event: Preview pres tasting of Wine Australia show, to be held Sept 27. The theme this year is “Regional Heroes”, wines from regions that express the character (terroir) of that region. There are 63 wine regions in Australia, but not all regions will be repped in the main show. Thus far, about 240 wines will be in the show, from LCBO General List through to expensive private orders. The Venue: Kultura Restaurant, King Street East. The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: most wines here at the preview, about 42 of them, were available now. Some will be here soon. But my fave wine (in terms of price and value) won’t be in Ontario Vintages until 2008! The Quote: “Canadian enjoyed 40.3 million litres of Australian wine in 2006; Canada is Australia’s third-largest export market by value – about $305.5 million CDN.” The Wines: The wines were laid out in Regional Order. I especially enjoyed the Hungerford Hill Chardonnay 2005 from New South Wales (+15479, $22.95 Vintages), with its very good oaking, broad follow through, full, ripe and juicy tropical fruit (twist top too). The Margan Shiraz 2004 Hunter Valley ($21.65 from Small Winemakers Collection) was tight and tannic, but with nice leather tones and a syrah hit, 13.5% ABV. The Skillogalee Basket Pressed Shiraz 2004 Clare Valley (+990902, $24.95) showed a sweet spiciness in its blackberry configuration, vying with vanilla oak on the finish, 14% ABV. Cumulus Climbing Cabernet 2005 ($18.50 from Authentic) showed some mint and off-sweet blackcurrant fruit, a glam wine. Nugan Estate Manuka Grove Durif 2006 South Australia (+951938, $29.95 from PMA) had lots of extract and Rhonish complexity, elderberries, very good oaking, 14.5% ABV blockbuster. Tiers Clarence Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 McLaren Vale (+43729, $19.95, from Vergina) had good cabby MVC, coconut on the finish, and 14.5% ABV. My fave of the day was Parri Estate Shiraz Viognier 2005 Southern Fleurieu (+48488, $17.95 from Airen, in Vintages in 2008 sometime) with its very, very French style, a hit of syrah, and a bit of brett showing. Great price too, 14.5% ABV. Nepenthe The Rogue 2004 Adelaide Hills (+998542, $19.99 Vintages) was almost as good, with its twist top, 64% shiraz, 20% cabernet, and 16% merlot blend. 14.5% ABV, slightly off-dry finish, and it will carry me through until the Parri Estate is landed – next year. The Food: light finger foods and snacks, shrimp, beef, cheese at room temperature, turnovers. All went well with the mainly red wines, but there was too much shrimp to taste against the (only) three table wines. The Downside: where were the whites? There was just a Jansz NV Sparkler from Tasmania with its lemon minerality, only one Chardonnay, one Sauvignon Blanc, and one Semillon blend. The Upside: a quiet, relaxed time with just wine writers, all spaced out, plenty of room. The Contact Person: marnie.williamson@austrade.gov.au The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. The Time and Date: Thursday, September 6, 2007 11:15 AM to 3 PM The Event: a tasting and lunch with Gerard Bertrand from Languedoc. The Venue: Kultura, King Street East The Target Audience: wine press, LCBO The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines are in process, although two have arrived and are now on General List. He is a fan of numerology, and his schtick in selling wines is to give each varietal a number, as it relates to numerology. Today he is launching Nos. 3 and 7. The Quote: “Should you be an outgoing and spontaneous person, go for the fresh Sauvignon Number 3. If you’re more of a sensual and intellectual person, the intense Chardonnay Number 7 would suit you perfectly.” The Wines: we tasted a range of numbered wines, plus two Chateau L’Hospitalet. Then we paired the wines with lunch. All wines were cork finished. * Cuvee des Nombres 3 Sauvignon Blanc 2006, $13.95, fresh fruit, light citrus, hot climate style (not grassy), 12.5% ABV. * Cuvee des Nombres 7 Chardonnay 2006, $13.95, good Euro consistency, peach notes, vanilla, off-dry finish. * Cuvee des Nombres 6 Pinot Noir 2006, $13.95, good PN MVC. * Cuvee des Nombres 4 Merlot 2005, $13.95, 13.5% ABV, soft fruit. * Cuvee des Nombres 9 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $13.95, 13.5% ABV, best value of the lot. * Cuvee des Nombres 2 Syrah 2006, $13.95, 13% ABV, very French, very syrah. * Chateau L’Hospitalet La Clape Coteaux du Languedoc 2003, $46, hot summer, 13.5% ABV, Classics Catalogue in April, a demanding wine. * L’Hospitalitas La Clape Coteaux du Languedoc 2004, $60, 13.5% ABV, from the best parcels of 325 hectares, chewy, tannic, but mouthfilling. The Food: the Kultura menu began with an heirloom tomato salad (green, orange, and red, all normal size) with l’Tournevant goat cheese. The No. 3 Sauvignon Blanc was delightful. The second course was seared scallops with a preserved lemon quinoa salad, and No. 7 Chardonnay. The next course was Ontario lamb rack, with the merlot and the cabernet sauvignon, and the syrah, and the pinot noir. It was dealer’s choice: all the wines tasted better with the food. The Canadian cheese plate was developed for the two La Clape wines: ciel de Charlevoix (blue, cow), Chaput Pyramid (goat), and Le Delice des Appalaches (cow). Terrific pairing. The sorbet course was too sweet and not refreshing; it segued into the pastry tasting platter of desserts and coffees. The Downside: the wine tasting before the lunch was unclear as to start time – I was advised that we could come anytime, and I did, walking in late. The Upside: great food, which made the wine taste better than it was. The Contact Person: www.gerard-bertrand.com or philip@nobleestates.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. The Time and Date: Saturday, September 8, 2007 6:45 PM to 9 PM The Event: WineOnline.ca wine tasting Boat Cruise The Venue: The Princess Queen, Pier 29, Queen’s Quay East. The Target Audience: customers and friends of WineOnline.Ca who paid; this was not a trade event, but my wife and I were invited to come and taste. There were about 70 of us in all. There was a second cruise at 9:15 – and apparently, this was the “party cruise”. The Availability/Catalogue: seven wines were available for tasting. The Quote: “Great ambiance – an informative wine staff (Josh Arndt, Aaron Bick, Jacqui Wells, and others), knowledgeable consumers, low key jazz and blues digital music, terrific weather and views.” The Wines: seven consignment wines were just enough to try, and still enjoy the cruise and eat the food, talk to people. * Henry of Pelham Reserve Chardonnay 2006 ($14.75): 13% ABV, good blending of fruit, oak tones, and citrus for the length. * Henry of Pelham Reserve Riesling 2006 ($14.75): great Euro riesling character from an Ontario wine. * Kreydenweiss Barbabelle 2004 Costieres de Nimes ($12.95): good blend of syrah, grenache, and carignan; biodynamic (beyond organic). Fabulous value at this price. * Kreydenweiss Andlau Riesling 2005 Alsace ($29.95): a bit off-dry, quite nice for the event, a social wine, but twice the price of the HOP. * Hester Creek Chardonnay-Semillon 2004 Okanagan Valley BC ($29.95): a roughly 50-50 blend, 12.5% ABV, a bit off-dry, but dynamic flavours, maybe musque was used? * Domaine du Pegau Plume Bleue 2004 Pays D’Oc ($13.95): 13.5% ABV, 50- 50 blend of grenache and syrah, very dramatic textures with syrah dominating. Value priced. A close tie with the Barabelle for best red of the evening. * Fratelli Rovero Barbera d’Asti 2004 ($18.95): another organic wine, very good fruit set, light on the main palate, then full near the finish. The Food: nibbles and cheeses, desserts, some prepared by the wine staff. All food was tapas-style (the new, more polite phrase for “finger food”). The Downside: it was over very quickly, time really went. The Upside: time well spent, great harbour views. The Contact Person: josh@wineonline.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. The Time and Date: Monday, September 10, 2007 10 AM – 11:30 AM The Event: a tasting and seminar with Grant Burge of Australia. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill at Scrivener Square, Event Kitchen Theatre. The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: new vintages and new wines to the Ontario market. The Quote: “This is a kick-off to our charity partnership with Grapes for Humanity” The Wines: * Summers Chardonnay 2006 Eden Valley : tropical fruit, spicy, whiff of vanilla oak, floral tones on the nose, lively finish with citric and toast feel.. February 2008 release at Vintages, $17.95. * Barossa Vines Cabernet Merlot 2005: cedar and lead pencil nose with a mint note, black currant flavour. Entry-level, 5000 cases made. $16.15 on General List. * Barossa Vines Shiraz 2004: $16.95 on LCBO Rapid Release program. Peppery and blackberry MVC, lightly fruity, elegant, good finishing acidity. * Miamba Shiraz 2005: Dense blackberry and peppery tones, but also plum and cedar on the nose, good tannins on the finish, easily resolved. November Vintages at $19.95. * Filsell Shiraz 2005 (80-year-old vines): full-bodied and ripe, MVC fruit, but needs cellaring. Euro Hermitage style: vanilla oak, blackberry, spices. Concentration of fruit on finish. $30 is the estimated price. * The Holy Trinity 2002 (Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre): $35. Hand-picked old vines, somewhat raisinated dried fruit, good Chateauneuf du Pape style. Raspberry was suggested. The Food: bread and water. The Downside: it was lightly attended. The Upside: more time to chat with Grant himself. The Contact Person: agaunt@calibrium.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. The Time and Date: Monday, September 10, 2007, 1:30P - 4 PM The Event: a tasting of Conchya y Toro Trio wines The Venue: Trio Ristorante, Yonge Street at Lawrence, where Trio, of course, is a house wine. The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: there were seven wines, two being sauvignon blancs. I suggested that we try them both together, not separately as on the wine sheet. The Quote: “Trio is being re-labeled”. The Wines: we were supposed to have Trio Sauvignon Blanc, but the 2007 is just being bottled and will be shipped soon. The Casillero del Diablo 2007 was substituted; it costs $2 less. This was from the Maule Valley, now a twist top, very herbaceous, and a bargain at $10.95 (+578641). Called zippy by one writer. The other SB was the Terrunyo Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Casablanca, twist top, not here yet, about $25 – 30 a bottle. It showed more limes than the other wine, but it was a high pricepoint. The Trio Merlot-Carmenere-Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (+433920, $14.75 General List) is about 65% merlot, 20% carmenere, and 15% cabernet sauvignon, from the Rapel and Maule Valleys. Although soft and fruity, it went well with the food. The Trio Cabernet Sauvignon- Shiraz-Cabernet Franc (+433912, $14.75 General List) is 70% cabernet sauvignon and 15% apiece for shiraz and cabernet franc, all from the Rapel and Maule Valleys. Not surprisingly, it showed North American appeal with its blackberries and chocolate overtones. The Terrunyo range costs twice as much as the Trio range, around $29.95 in Vintages. We began with the Carmenere 2005, which was actually 85% carmenere, 13% cabernet sauvignon, and 2% cabernet franc. It had strong character which was brought out by the aging process. The Syrah 2005 showed a delicious syrah character, not shiraz, coming in at 14.5% ABV, aged 14 months in French oak. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 was the hands down winner; it was 95% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc, 17 months in mainly new French oak. Great with the food. All of these red wines were high in alcohol, showing up to 14 – 14.5% ABV. The Food: the restaurant wanted to show off its food, mainly Italian, so it produced six dishes, slightly larger than a tapas, one for each wine style. We began with calamari and tomato and peppers, which was surperb with the two sauvignon blancs. The carpaccio and parmesan cheese accompanied the Trio Merlot-Carmenere-Cabernet Sauvignon; the orecchiette alla barese (sausages and anchovy paste) went nicely with the Trio Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Cabernet Franc. The food, though, needed to be tasted against several of the wines, but sadly there was no time or no space. Next up was a gigantic helping of osso buco and risotto with the powerful Terrunyo Carmenere. Then some pan seared lamb chops (and dijon mustard) with creamy polenta and the hearty Terrunyo Syrah, followed by a striploin and mash with the Terrunyo Cabernet Sauvignon. Everything worked well this afternoon, and the wines did a great job of complementing the food. The Downside: why does every wine label have be re-labeled every few years or so? It appears that this seems to be the best way to get the media’s attention – to sell the label. The Upside: a great chance to try out a fine restaurant, and to match many of Concha y Toro’s Euro-styled wines with food. The Contact Person: haddleton@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 12, 2007, 11A to 1:30 PM The Event: Preview tasting of Wines of Chile, in advance of the October 3 show. The Venue: Boiler House Restaurant, Distillery District. The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: the wines presented were mainly LCBO General List, Vintages or Consignment. Prices were mostly at the lower end, the mid teens in dollars. The Quote: “Chilean wineries were just advised to buy as many Argentine wineries as they could find.” The Wines: we were seated, and the wines were served blind in flights according to varietals. 46 wines were offered through 8 flights. 25 wineries or more will be at the show. I enjoyed the Vina MontGras Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2006 San Antonio Valley (+58632 General, $11.95) for it was a bargain with its citric development, longer finish, reduced herbs, but still a good food wine. Certainly it was affordable. Vina Tabali Chardonnay Reserva Especial 2005 Limari Valley (+663005 Vintages $18.95) was the standout chardonnay for the money. Vina Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay Cuvee Alexandre 2005 Casablanca Valley was the best white, with its elegant blend of fruit and wood, suggesting a Euro desire, but it is $32.95 (+947937 Vintages). The best value here was the Vina Concha y Toro Chardonnay Casillero del Diablo Reserva 2006 Casablanca Valley, which delivered toast on the nose and a smokey finish but a thinnish palate, for a mere $11.95 (+58420, General LCBO). Vina Perez Cruz Carmenere Limited Edition 2005 Maipo Valley (+670539, $24.95) offered a Euro nose, slightly Bordeaux in complexity, and screamed for food. I was surprised by the comparable Vina San Esteban Carmenere In Situ Winemaker’s Selection 2004 Aconcagua Valley (+37952, $13.95 Vintages) with its broad fruit loaded with character and also needing food. Vina San Pedro Shiraz Castillo de Molina Reserva 2004 Lontue Valley (+237800, $13.20 General) was a Euro styled syrah, good MVC with fruit on the palate, long length, and again needing food. It is one of the bargains on the general list; it is hard to find quality at this level. The best red in the preview was the lovely Vina Tabali Shiraz Reserva 2005 Limari Valley (+662692, $16.95 Vintages), again with a Euro style, lovely fruit and finish, concentrated depth, useful as a sipper or food wine. There were 10 cabernet sauvignons. At the high end, I had chosen Vina Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvee Alexandre 2005 Colchagua Valley (+947929, $34.95 Vintages) with its elegant long length and food worthiness. Next was the Vina Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Marques de Casa Concha 2005 Maipo Valley (+337238, $19.95 Vintages) with its Euro complexity and lively finish. A delicious Vina San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Castillo de Molina Reserva 2005 Lontue (+339176, $13.20 LCBO) in the North American style was tied with the broad plummy flavours of the Euro-styled Vina Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna Reserve 2004 Curico Valley (+177451, $14.95 Vintages) for third. The Food: good sandwiches on buns, potato salad, green salad (undressed), and cookies. The Downside: I was looking forward to tasting some Chilean malbecs and Chilean cabernet francs, but it was not to be. The pinot noirs tasted were not interesting. The Upside: the blind tasting format is always superb, and it is relaxing when someone else is pouring the wine for you. It was a great chance to sit down. The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. The Time and Date: Friday, September 14, 2007, 11 AM to 2 PM The Event: a tasting of wines, sponsored by “Wines from Brazil”, for the media and for the trade. The Venue: Toula, 38th Floor, Westin Hotel The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: superb notes from the seven wineries, all marshaled together by the organizer Sheila Swerling-Puritt. US prices were quoted as most of the wines were not repped in Canada. The Quote: “It is hot as hell in here” – the air circulation system didn’t kick in for about an hour, making the seminar of chewy red wines a tough slog... The Wines: we started with seven wines, one from each winery, as a media seminar. A rep from each establishment presented the wine, and was available for questions. About two dozen wine press were there. * Miolo Merlot Terroir 2005: this was a wine to savour and to cellar, $45 US retail, good depth but needing time. Michel Rolland is an adviser to the winery. * Mioranza Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: $15 US, spicy fruit, good oaking from six months in French oak. * Casa Valduga Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2004: $32 US: hard oak, red fruit, still needed time. * Pizzato Concentus 2004: $25 US, very good concentration, one of my top picks of the afternoon. It was 40% merlot, 40% tannat, and 20% cabernet sauvignon, barreled in 50 – 50 French and US oak. * Panceri Pisani and Panceri Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: $18.50 US, and a bargain. Grapefruit, red fruit, oak tones, higher acid on the finish for food. French oak. * Boscato Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: $80 US. Gold medalist, oaky, plummy, saturated, delivers the goods with flavours, but pricey. * Don Laurindo Gran Reserva 2002: $105 US. Bordeaux-styled blend, only made in special harvests (1999, 2002, 2005). New French oak dominates. Other wines in the show included a variety of chardonnays (the more it cost, the better it tasted) and sparkling wines. The sparklers were good value, especially the Panceri Espumante Moscatel for $6 US. In the reds, I enjoyed the Casa Valduga Cabernet Franc 2004 ($14US) and their Duetto Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004 ($14US), Don Laurindo Reserva Malbec 2005 ($45US), Miolo Lote 43 2004 ($35US) with its 50-50 merlot and cabernet sauvignon done up in US oak, and both the Pizzato Reserva Merlot 2004 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($14 apiece). The Food: The Toronto Brazilian restaurant Caju did the catering, supplying (at room temperature) fish balls, meat in puff paste, cheese and bacon balls, various small empanadas. They all went extremely well with the food. The Downside: it was initially very hot. The Upside: a great opportunity to taste the other wines later, about 30 in all. The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. The Time and Date: Monday, September 17, 2007 11 AM to 1 PM The Event: A tasting of Bertani Amarone 1953, 1967, 1975, 1986, and 1999, with Lorenzo Boscaini. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill, at Scrivener Square, Event Kitchen Room. The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: most of these wines will be available in small lots of two to 22 cases, next March 5, 2008 as an Internet web offer. The Quote: “Secco-Bertani has been in continuous production for 150 years and is rightly extolled as the grandfather of Ripasso technique in Veronese wines.” The Wines: Boscaini spoke to the wines, beginning with a short history of the company (founded in 1857), production principles, and the technique of ripasso. He’s a good speaker, very voluble. The ripasso was first made in 1953, and the first vintage of the company’s Amarone Classico was in 1959. Most of the questions he fielded were “marketing” in nature. His basic cellaring technique is to have the wine spend 6 or 7 years aging in Slavonian oak barrels plus one year in bottle before release. He has a barrel rotation program. He produces about 60 – 70,000 bottles of amarone each year. We began with a 2004 Secco-Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena Ripasso (General List, $14.40, +12443) which is very good value. It has always been a ripasso wine, but lately they have decided (because of marketing issues) to add the word ripasso to the front label, to being it in line with their competitors. 13% ABV, very fruity yet dry finish. Then we moved on to the 1953, which was not an amarone, but which was a ripasso done as an experiment to see if the Secco could be a bit bigger in style. This pre-Amarone was still lively and juicy, with good aged flavours, strong notes of oxidation. * Amarone della Valpolicella 1967: this was decanted – it had been aged for 17 years in large Slavonian oak barrels. This particular lot was bottled later than the rest (1985). Long lasting taste in the glass, but the aroma collapsed early. +63156, $322.45. * Amarone della Valpolicella 1975: aged 10 years in large Slavonian oak barrels. My fave of the day – still a young wine in feel, it was better in the bottle than it had a right to be. Did not fade with opening and aeration. Prunes, nuts, leather, etc. +63164, $204.95. * Amarone della Valpolicella 1986: aged 8 years in large Slavonian oak barrels, bottled 1995. 14.9% ABV, Italian garrigue on the nose and in the mouth, still tightish, but a really long length. +63172, $141 estimated. * Amarone della Valpolicella 1999: no dried fruit, raisins, or age at all. Amazingly fresh. Dense, coffee tones, not ready. Bottled March 2006. +362277, $102.95. The Food: bread, cheese, and water. The Downside: because of traveling situations and conflicts, there were only a handful of wine writers. The Upside: it has been more than 15 years since we’ve had an amarone tasting in Toronto. The Contact Person: haddleton@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2 PM to 9 PM The Event: joint portfolio tasting of Mondia Alliance, Barrique Wine Imports, and VinVino Wine Merchants. The Venue: C Lounge, Wellington Street. The Target Audience: LCBO, sommeliers, restaurateurs, wine press, private consumers. The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available through Vintages (or will be) or Consignment. Private orders are also an option. While we had a list of wineries, we did not have a list of what winery owners or export directors were pouring. Nor did we actually have a list of wines. There WAS a list of wines at each table, but that meant peering over somebody’s shoulder to see a wine’s name, vintage, price for licensee, price for retail, CSPC, and availability times. The list per table was lying flat, not upright; it was hard to see. There was a blank booklet to make notes. And there was also a terrific pen! So I guess people could just taste blindly and then ask what the wine was...The lighting was below average (but not as bad as the second floor at last year’s event). Thus, it was extremely hard to read. I must be going blind. I had to scribble all this data down as well as taste wines. It was a royal pain in the butt, and I’m sure I’ve made egregious errors in the facts about a wine, but what can I say? Life is hell out there in the trenches...I asked why there was no catalogue, and I was told that most of the catalogues were NOT picked up last year, or not used. Another agent, smaller in stature, told me that he regularly spends over $300 on small catalogues, and they are not used by many people. I can see that: but there are consequences to pay when somebody DOES need a catalogue. All I can say is that if anybody wants information on any of these wines, then simply email the agency and tell ‘em that bonehead Tudor sent you. The Quote: “All that waterfall sculpture just makes me want to pee. It’s so warm, I wish I could swim in the pool on the patio”. The Wines: here goes..there were a lot of New World wines. But it was depressing to see that the only winery from Oregon was Amity Vineyards. Scott Wilson once had scores of Oregon wines. From France, I enjoyed almost all of the Pierre Sparr Alsatian offerings. These included the Pinot Blanc Reserve 2005 ($12.63 licensee) as a good food wine. The Riesling Mambourg Grand Cru 2002 was $28.92 licensee at Vintages, and was excellent value in a Riesling from Alsace. The Gewurztraminer Reserve 2005 was $15.95 (consignment) and was twice as good as the regular bottling on General List at $14.44. The Pinot Gris Reserve 2005 was the same price on Consignment, and represented good value. From Spain, Rioja’s Bodegas Lan was there, but I enjoyed Pares Balta from the Penedes more. I could drink their Absis 2003 (tempranillo, merlot, cabernet, syrah?) all day long, especially from this hot vintage, but $80.95 is pricey. Their Marta 2004 Shiraz was tight and tannic at this point, $73.95 a pop. From Italy, Castello di Querceto showed their Il Sole di Alessandro 2003, a cabernet sauvignon super Tuscan at $75 licensee. Bersano’s Gavi 2006 showed style and elegance, as well as lemons, and needed food ($14.95). From the New World – Oakville Ranch Chardonnay 2006 Napa ($43.95 consignment, 14.7% ABV) was ripe and full; their Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($61.95; 14.8% ABV) was juicy. Robert’s Blend 2002 showed a little age from the cab sauvignon (35%) and cab franc (65%) blend, 14.8% ABV. J. Lohr seemed to have the most wines at the show, at different levels. Their entry wines (Cypress, about $14) showed remarkable value. The Riverstone Chardonnay 2005 was $16.84, and showed melons and vanilla. Their Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon was priced at $19.50, and delivered a cabby MVC, as did the Merlot Los Osos 2005 (but a merlot MVC) for the same price. A top-of-the-line wine was Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, selling for a remarkable $34. Peter Franus of Napa brought a Carneros Sauvignon Blanc 2006 that was made from a musque clone, put up in puncheon oak barrels for three months, 13.8% ABV, $27.95. There was good depth and development in his Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($53.95). Martin Ray had a very full and generous Chardonnay 2005 from Russian River ($25.95, 14.3% ABV) using French oak. It needed food to complement its flavours. The Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 was outstanding for $64.23. Honig Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2003 ($44) was another shining example of a well made cab. Rosenblum Vineyards produced its zinfandel series. Zinfandel North Coast 2005 ($28, +31773, 14.8% ABV) showed good materials and chocolate. Even better was Zinfandel Richard Sauret 2005 (15.6% ABV, $37.98), and better still was Zinfandel Harris Kratka ($49.75, 14.7% ABV). The Miner Family came with Chardonnay 2005 Napa ($39.95) with 50% of it under oak, and 100% delicious. They also have a Chardonnay 2005 Wild Yeast for $61.52, which is more suggestive of the terroir. The Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 has 8% cabernet franc added ($66.95) and it was soft and ready to roll, perhaps as a BYOW. Their Oracle 2003 is $79, and it is 52% cabernet sauvignon, 31% merlot, and 17% cab franc. Turning to other countries, I did enjoy J. Bouchon’s Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from Chile, exceptional value at $7.65 on the General List. Aresti Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($11.25) had reduced zest, but was still citric. Argento from Argentina had a delicious Chardonnay 2006 ($9.05) on general list, very much underappreciated. Zapata was a highlight for me: I loved their Catena Alta Chardonnay 2004 ($36.21, Classics; 13.5% ABV) for its consistency and elegant style. The entry level Alamos Chardonnay 2006 ($12.63) was no slouch either. Catena Malbec 2005 ($18.06) was mouthfilling, a decent soft sipper. Catena Cabernet Sauvignon Alta 2004 ($50.70; 14% ABV) was a showpiece, serious wine. The best was Nicolas Catena Zapata 2003 ($72.43), a blend of malbec and cabernet sauvignon with its determined but tight finish. It must be cellared. Coriole Vineyards in McLaren Vale had an entry level Redstone Shiraz 2004 ($16.95; 14.5% ABV). Its regular Shiraz 2005 ($21.95; 14.5% ABV) showed an excess of fruit but was also easy drinking. Its Soloist Single Vineyard Shiraz 2005 ($22.58) had more wood and was more Euro-style, almost syrah-like. Its Lloyd’s Reserve Shiraz 2005 ($48.95; 14.5% ABV) showed dense chocolates. For a change of pace, they also had a Mary Kathleen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Reserve 2004 blend ($36.95; 13% ABV). Wakefield Chardonnay Estate 2005 from Australia ($17.50, 14.5% ABV) is on consignment, and would do nicely as a house wine. At the higher end, there is Wakefield’s St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, with a fab cab hit for $51.95. Brokenwood in McLaren Vale had a Graveyard Shiraz 2004 ($67) that would send shivers up your spine. Penmara from the Hunter showed a MCP wine (also known as male chauvinist pig) with 55% merlot, 30% cabernet franc, and 5% petit verdot), Bordeaux-styled all the way, for $19.95: soft, good food wine. The Food: cheeses, dried fruit, nuts, breads, crackers, pass-around nibbles from the waitstaff. The Downside: no working catalogue. It is true that few people seemed to miss it. Once again, very few people were writing in their books. Can they really remember all this stuff? Or were they just there for a good time? I asked someone to send me a catalogue by email, but it never arrived. The Upside: a fine portfolio to taste, with plenty of time to do it (seven hours). The Contact Person: portfoliotasting@barrique.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 80. The Time and Date: Thursday, September 20, 2007 11 AM – 6 PM The Event: a portfolio tasting of the Merchant Vintner (annual patio tasting) The Venue: patio of the Merchant Vintner The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted from three catalogues: consignment wines, Vintages wines currently in stock, and future Vintages releases. The Quote: “We go out of our way to get the best quality family-owned wines, made by people who have passion” – Merchant Vintner. The Wines: this was a drop-in affair, and bottles were pulled and opened on request. All prices are retail. We started with the whites. My favourites were Les Jamelles Pays D’Oc Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($13.95; great quaffing sauv at this price level), the Macon Chardonnay 2006 “Belle Epoque” Cave de Vire ($18.95; actually from the village of Chardonnay, surprisingly very complex at this price level), the Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim 2005 Zind-Humbreacht (+918078, $35.95; +598151, $19.95 half-bottles; with lots of extract and concentration, great MVC), the Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2005 Beaumalric (+459560, $15.95 half-bottle; delicious peach intensity in this dessert wine of 17% ABV), the Gruner Veltliner Oberfeld Trocken 2006 Unger (+951756, $19.95; some aromatic complexity which continued in the follow through, not austere), the Nepenthe Tryst White 2005 from Australia (+39115, $15.95, twist top, 70% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon, and 5% pinot gris; pushes all my dry white wine buttons, very good body and consistency, fruity, right through to the finish and beyond, some zestiness, great price), the Riesling 1995 Vendanges Tardives from Alsace’s Binner ($43; a full bottle to explore both age and late harvest intensity at a modest price), the Vinho Verde 2006 Varanda do Conde ($12.95; very dry and refreshing); and the Gruner Veltliner Kamptal 2006 Aichinger ($18.95; very well-rounded, slightly off-dry). Moving to the reds, the Les Jamelles Pays d’Oc Syrah 2006 ($13.95) was an accomplished wine at the price level. The Chateau Flaunys 2005 Montagne St.Emilion ($24.95) was a dramatic merlot entry, good vanilla on the finish. The Pinot Noir 2002 Churton from Marlborough New Zealand ($35.95) was loaded with character at a fair price, Burgundian in style. The Chianti Rufina Riserva 2003 Prunatelli ($21.95) was a steal from that hot vintage year: immediate aged Chianti nose, good sour cherries right through to the finish, reminded me of clafoutis. The 2004 vintage ($16.95) was more North American in appeal with its fruity brightness. “La 66” Cotes du Roussillon Villages Mas de la Deveze ($19.95) is another bargain, but at 14.5% ABV, with its North American style of chocolate, fruit and jam, you’d better be sitting down. The Rioja Reserva 2002 Baron de Ley ($19.95) is another overachiever, showing good wood from 20 months in new US oak. It has aged well, but was so overwhelming it drove me back to the food plates. The Merlot 2003 IGT Umbria Castello delle Regine ($70; 14% ABV) could only be best described as an “uberUmbrian” (as in superTuscan)...Two bargains from Argentina – the Malbec 2004 Tupungato Jean Bousquet ($12.95) was rich and lush. The Reserva 2006 version ($16.95) was better in its depth and concentration. The Blackbilly GSM 2006 McLaren Vale from TJV Wine Co ($27.95; twist top; 14.5% ABV) was ripe, rich and fruity from the grenache-shiraz-mourvedre blend. The Nepenthe Tryst Red 2005 from Adelaide Hills in Australia ($15.95; twist top; 14.5%) was a trio blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 25% tempranillo, and 5% zinfandel – for an unusual taste and guessing game. Still, it all worked, and even better with food. The Nepenthe Rogue 2004 ($19.95; +998542) is a step up, with shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot in the blend. Cellar Blend 2004 Cloof Darling from South Africa (+37408, $19.95) was a mystery wine. Very dramatic aromas, lots of red fruits, long length, heavy wine, 25% new French oak. This is a field blend of whatever they have; it changes every year. Lots of pinotage, no doubt. The highlight was the Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Balnaves ($35.95) which was exceptionally juicy with a good follow through and a long, long finish. I felt that it was underpriced. The Food: beef sandwiches, salmon wraps, prosciutto with cheese and dates, veggies, caramelized onion tarts, cheeses. The Downside: I got lost twice getting to the patio, and that was BEFORE I had a drink. The Upside: great weather. The Contact Person: contact@merchantvintner.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. The Time and Date: Thursday, September 20, 2007 5 PM – 9 PM The Event: a mini-portfolio tasting of Portfolio Wine and Spirits The Venue: ArtCore Gallery, Distillery District. The Target Audience: art lovers, wine lovers, consumers. The Availability/Catalogue: a good booklet was produced, with the names and prices and vintages of the 22 wines on offer. There were some excellent notes on all of the wines, which was most helpful. Most of the wines are coming to Vintages or Consignment by the end of the year 2007. The Quote: “Many of the art works on the wall were slightly unfocused photos; this is normal, it was not a reflection of swallowing the wine.” The Wines: I enjoyed the Primitivo Ettamiano del Salento 2001 ($17.95) from Cantine Due Palme in Puglia, for its depth, chocolate, cherries and long engaging finish. The Gruner Veltliner Strasser Gaisberg 2005 from Allram in Austria ($22) had a smooth, off-dry finish, not the usual “Austrian austerity”. The Marginata Classic White 2006 from Jarrah Ridge in Australia ($16.95) was full of flavour with its chenin and chardonnay blending. The winery’s Merlot 2004 ($17.95) was a steal: deep fruit, some Bordeaux complexity, great winter wine for the price. Innocent Bystander Shiraz-Viognier 2004 ($20.95) from Australia had juicy fruit, long on the mid-palate. Sexton Harry’s Monster 2004 ($34.95) from Giant Steps in Australia was also a winter wine, with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot in the heavy blend (13.9% ABV). The Proscecco Argeo from Ruggeri ($16.95) is an MC wine, good value for the dollar. The best sparklers were the Champagne Louis de Sacy, which is now repped by Portfolio. The Brut Grand Cru NV ($54; also $31.50/375mL) is a fairly typical Champagne at this price level, but the Brut Grand Soir NV ($77) is definitely going after the Krug market with its upscale compost-y age and earthiness. The Cuvee Nue ($65) attracts with its see-through label and yeastiness. The Domaine Nudant Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2004 ($21.15, Vintages +7815) comes from one of my favourite French areas; it is generous and expansive at this price level. The Food: nibbles included mushroom and/or tomato bruschetta, chicken on skewers, and little pies. The Downside: it was a cavernous room that needed to be filled. The Upside: there was plenty of room and space and time to talk to the agent. The Contact Person: wineportfolio@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. The Time and Date: Tuesday, September 25, 2007, 12:30 PM – 3 PM. The Event: a lunch with Patrick Raguenaud, Cellar Master of the House of Grand Marnier. The Venue: Le Select. The Target Audience: wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: the Grand Marnier that we tasted comes and goes in the market (see below). The Quote: “On a per capita basis, our best sales are in Canada, specifically in Alberta”. The Wines: for openers, we had cocktails, a sparkler with the GM Navan liqueur (vanilla-based) and a twist of orange. With the meal with had Chateau de Sancerre white (sauvignon blanc from Sancerre in the Loire) which reflected the zestiness and tartness of the grape. We tasted eight spirits – a cognac followed by the GM it was used in. Patrick led the discussion of the various components that go into making Grand Marnier while we tasted. We began with Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, followed by the GM Louis Alexandre (which I felt was the best value in terms of price). It had solid flavours of orange and cognac, well- integrated. The Cuvee du Centenaire Grand Marnier was very smooth; it is a Vintages Essentials at $140, with cognacs up to 25 years old. The Cuvee de Cent Cinquantenaire Grand Marnier was a dynamite knock out; it was also $250 a bottle. The Food: it is hard to come up with a meal that could complete the palate of a sweet spirit. We started with a tomato and goat cheese tart, and a chicken and pesto sandwich. Both were excellent with the white wine. A montecristo followed, with frites. Then we had cheeses (blue, triple cremes, etc.) and desserts. The wine was good until then. The GMs kicked in with the cheeses and the desserts (mango and chocolate pies). The Downside: it was lightly attended, since many media preferred to go to the (more elegant) dinner at night at Senses. Chacon a son gout... The Upside: we were able to have a close relationship in speaking with Patrick and the rest of the entourage. The Contact Person: Deborah Knight 416-363-1255 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. The Time and Date: Thursday, September 27, 2007 1:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: Wine Australia Presents Regional Heroes. The Venue: Design Exchange The Target Audience: wine press, LCBO, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: the theme this year was to push decently priced Australian wines from some of the 63 distinct regions. 55 wineries participated (out of 2,000 possible in Oz). Wine Australia has been marketing Oz wines in four categories: Regional Heroes, Brand Champions (mainstream), Generation Next (new wines), and Landmark Australia (expensive limited productions). We didn’t see any of the latter, unless you’d include Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2005 ($80), Katnook Estate Prodigy Shiraz ($69), O’Leary Walker Reserve Shiraz 2004 ($100), or Parker Coonawarra First Growth Cabernet Merlot 2004 ($66.95). There were a few wines around $50, a few more at $40, and then even more under $30. The vast majority was under $20. The cheapest was probably Runaway Bay Chardonnay and Shiraz, at $11.55 each. The catalogue was laid out by name of the winery, with table numbers, names of agents upfront, regions, name of wines, LCBO numbers (unnumbered wines were either private orders or consignment), and retail prices – although some of the prices were wrong. The Quote: “They managed to fix the lighting in the Design Exchange: I can see everything now. But I can also see that there are not too many people here at the trade show! Where is everybody?” The Wines: We began with a seminar, which started a bit late: I left early to take in the wine show. John Szabo, MS, moderate a panel of visiting Australian principals who spoke to their wines (all were in twist top). The stress was on terroir. Skillogalee Riesling 2006 ($22.95, Worldwide Cellar) was bone dry with some of that Alsatian character, medium finish. Katnook Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($22.95, Charton Hobbs) was Euro style, elegant with minerals, very ripe. Redbank Sunday Morning Pinot Gris 2006 ($24.95, Charton Hobbs) was 14.5% ABV, pear tones dominated, longer finish than most. Jacob’s Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay 2004 ($34.95, Corby Distilleries) showed toasty wood on both the nose and palate, some butter, slightly bitter toward the finish, persistent fresh citric finish, a definite food chardonnay. It was one of a few chardonnays in the show: what’s happened to Oz chards? Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2006 ($38.95, Churchill Cellars) was plummy with North American appeal in the nose, too young, solid cherries and most MVC character. Brokenwood Indigo Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 ($35.95, Mondia Alliance) had little MVC, very shy and closed, 14% ABV. Yering Station Pinot Noir Reserve 2005 ($43, Trilogy Wines) was rich and elaborate, earthiness, developing, strong persistence, will continue to age well and turn into a burgundy style wine. Cumulus Climbing Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($18.50, Authentic) had 14 months in French and US oak, good berry complexity, some mintiness, depth and development, firm tannins, needs time, but good price. Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz 2004 ($42.95, Kylix) was 15% ABV. It was their first vintage under a twist top. Rich, dense, extractive but with a soft finish. From the wine show itself, I enjoyed (but I did not taste all the wines) in the whites -- Boggy Creek Chardonnay 2005 (Merchant Vintner) was not yet available for sale; the sample tasted well-rounded and well-priced for an elegant chardonnay from Australia. D’Arenberg The Olive Grove Chardonnay 2006 (+702845, $16.95) was comparable in its completeness. Hamelin Bay Chardonnay 2006 (Thompson, $24.95) was elegant, twist top (as were so many wines today), French wood, lemons, pears, and a Gold Medalist. Hungerford Hill Dalliance Sparkling 2002 (+39354, $22.85) convinced me enough to dally for a second sample; it’s a pinot noir (2/3) and chardonnay blend. Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2006 (+15479, $22.95) was a nicely balanced wine, perfect with food. Kangarilla Road Viognier 2006 (+908011, $21.75) was simply smashing in its fruitiness, twist top, 14.5% ABV. Margan Semillon 2006 (+961516, $17.95) showed that Hunter Valley style, although it was still a young wine. McPherson Marsanne Viognier 2005 (Kylix, $18.95) was 87% marsanne; it had that south of France ripeness. Pikes Viognier 2006 (Authentic, $19.95) was very aromatic. Xanadu Chardonnay 2005 (+27888, $20.95) was another twist top wonder, 14% ABV. Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2005 (+954644, $22.95) was both aromatic and fruity. The Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2006 (+39271, $17.95) remains one of the best deals at Vintages. For the reds – Alkoomi Blackbutt Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Thompson, $49.95) was very silky and oaky, delicious. Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+39537, $39.95) was minty and deep. Gemtree Uncut Shiraz 2006 (+627844, $26.50) was better value than Gemtree Obsidian Shiraz 2004 (Vergina, $45.90) which was basket pressed and 36 months in new French oak. Both wines, of course, were no slouches. Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+39545, $25.95) was very minty and toothy. Margan Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Small Winemakers Collection, $20.75) was still tight, but showed a mouthful of fruit later. Parker Terra Rossa Merlot 2004 (+678581, $36.95) showed very intense but soft fruit. Parri Estate Pinot Noir 2006 (+17293, $19.95) was a huge wine showing some dried fruit of raisins. Plantagent Shiraz 2004 (Small Winemakers Collection, $32) was 14.5% ABV, but exceptionally smooth and fruity. Rymill Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Small Winemakers Collection, $31.95) tasted ripe and well-aged. Shingleback Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (+662957, $28.95) was a good solid food wine which I enjoyed. Stella Bella Shiraz 2005 (+48553, $22.95 in February 2008) was a good Euro style wine from Margaret River. St. Hallet Old Block Shiraz 2003 (Select Wines, $54.95) was a top of the line goody, dense in its complexity. St. Mary’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Lamprecht, $22.99) did not have ML, and hence showed some apple complexity. Tatachilla Foundation 2001 (Select Wines, $39.95) was deeply rich, and well-aged for a shiraz, verging on being a knockoff of something from France. Tidswell Jennifer Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Wineworld, $45) was a classic, with mints, mocha and some anise. McPherson Basilisk Cabernet Balzac 2005 (Grape Expectations, $16.05) is unique in that it has some grape called balzac (not in Robinson’s book); it is a dark wine with menthol, anise, black fruit and some French oak. The Food: cold cuts for bun sandwiches, cheeses, crackers, condiments. But somebody made the egregious error of putting out too hot salami, which effectively killed your taste buds for about 15 minutes. Not refreshing at all... The Downside: where was Foster’s? They were announced, but they were not in the catalogue, nor were they present. Just wonderin’ The Upside: I am not sure why, but some 11 wines were allowed in under the rubric “Brand Champions” (mainstream blended wines from larger regions, such as South Eastern Australia and South Australia). Another seven, while coming from a more delimited region, were focused as “Generation Next” (newer wine styles). No wines were labeled “Landmark Australia”. The Contact Person: marnie.williamson@austrade.gov.au The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84 – could have been higher if more trade people had attended. The Time and Date: Friday, September 28, 2007, 12:30 PM to 3 PM The Event: a tasting and discussion with Matias Rios, Chief Wine Manager of Cono Sur winery in Chile. He wanted to talk about the company’s environmental initiatives. They are the first winery on the planet to achieve CarbonNeutral delivery status (August, 2007). The company is almost organic, but wishes to retain the right to be flexible. The Venue: Thuet Bistro Bakery The Target Audience: selected wine media, along with the agent Maxiuum (Peter Sharp). The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted four wines from his wide selection. The principal launch is for the Viognier in December. Cono Sur is an independently run winery, although it is owned by Concha y Toro and competes with it. The Quote: “Since 2002 they were the first Chilean winery to use screw caps for aromatic white wines”. The Wines: * Cono Sur Viognier 2006 ($9.95 for the 2007, coming in December to General List): this was the surprise of the tasting, revealing dried fruit, peaches, citrus, deep aromas, and the like, with three months of French oak. 1100 cases are coming in, just in time for Christmas. It’s very hard to find this kind of quality today, for under ten bucks. I raised the question re: the oak – why? And Matias replied that viognier needs a little oak to help with the phenolic ripeness. It is also partially fermented in French oak. And this is just entry level... * Cono Sur Merlot 2006 ($9.95 GL): 85% merlot, with cab sauvignon, syrah and malbec to top it up. 14% ABV. 15% of the blend was aged in French oak for 8 months. Black fruits, food friendly, great price. * Cono Sur Vision Pinot Noir 2006 ($15.95): with a twist top. Fresh, aromatic profile, a real stunner. Cono Sur specializes in Pinot Noir. They have four levels of wine (there is a Reserve between the entry level and the Vision series, followed by a 20 Barrels series), plus a super wine. And pinot noir is made at all five levels. * Cono Sur Vision Merlot 2006 ($17.95; Vintages): a serious merlot, with the same percentage as the entry level plus 1% alicante. 14.1% ABV. Dark red, peppery, blackberries, chocolate, sweet oak. A fab wine for any red wine occasion. The Food: All served on appropriate plates. First course – a wild game foie gras and Scottish langoustine terrine for the Viognier. Perfect match. Second course – squash froth (coconut cream) with scallop. Too light for the merlot, better with the pinot noir (but we hadn’t yet been served the pinot). I was fighting with the waiters to stop them from removing my food and wine. Third course – miso glazed mackerel with risotto and root veggies. Good with the pinot, nice integration of fruit with spices. We also requested more viognier, which apparently went with everything on the menu. The fourth course was a supreme of guinea hen with pommes Dauphine. It was meant for the Vision merlot, but I think it went better with the entry level merlot. The Vision merlot was substantial and need red meats. For dessert, fig jam creme brulee with lemon verbena ice cream. Yes, the viognier even went well here, especially with the ice cream. The Downside: we did not have a chance to taste the wines separately as a unit, away from the food. The Upside: the bread at Thuet. The Contact Person: lcochrane@lexpr.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SUMMER 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 5 PM to 7 PM The Event: the launch of the ROM’s new dining destinations C5 (fifth floor; 120 seats) and Food Studio (lower level; 325 seats). The Venue: the ROM, in Michael Lee-Chin Crystal section. The Target Audience: food and wine media. I counted about 60 people, most of whom I did not recognize. There were a few wine writers, but I gather that many media were on holidays. In the Food Court, we mostly noshed and drank and talked to each other, although a brief tour was promised – did it ever happen? I was there at 5 sharp, and was told that we were mostly to be in a holding pen until moving upstairs to the higher level. There was a great display of VQA full and half-bottles on ice. I wondered when they were to be poured, and I was told that they were just on display. So was the food: just on display. When the wine came around, we were not informed of the name of the winery, and the wait person had to check. This prompted a visit from a publicist, who also produced a wine list but only after I asked for it. Chardonnay was confused with off-dry riesling. The Availability/Catalogue: ten VQA wines are on the wine list. We sampled two wines plus the one I requested. The Quote: Bill Thorsell (ROM) and Dick Cattani (Restaurant Associates) spoke about food at the ROM. Catering will be a big feature, and members of the ROM are encouraged to support the ROM by having catering and lounge activities done by the ROM, who would get a percentage of the fee. Restaurant Associates is an operating division within Compass PLC, the largest foodservice company in the world. RA manages foodservices at major cultural museums and galleries, presumably with the same licensing arrangements. The Wines: Pelee Island Merlot showed up rather well as a walk around red, but the Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling was a better quaffer and went with more of the food, especially the food that was offered for the first hour and a half. I had to ask to see the bottles since my servers did not know who the producers were. The Food: we all sampled upscale fare from C5 (Crystal Five) and regular fare from Food Studio. The latter samples embraced mini- pizzette (mostly cheese) and dim sum in a spoon. The C5 offerings included several seviches (octopus, scallop) and a fantastic grouper eschevitch (preserved), all served with Peruvian potatoes. Best offerings included a smokey gazpacho with yellow tomatoes and cheese, and a striped bass tempura with caviar on its spine. Other dishes – all pass rounds by wait staff – were mini-burgers on pastry, foie gras mousse covered in chocolate, and several desserts (mini-custards with raspberries, mango chocolate tart). The Downside: it was hard to discover what wines were being served. Some of the servers did not know their names, or were ill-informed. The semi-dry riesling was quoted as a chardonnay. Personally, I was disappointed that only two wines were served. I knew that this was not a wine function, yet still many wine writers turned up, and I know that some were disappointed that there were not many more VQA wines to taste. I had to ask for the chardonnay to be opened, since they themselves had brought up the name. The Upside: no Museum admission is required to access either restaurant. It was a great opportunity to sample what RA can do, to view the menu and the wine list. It was all extremely well-polished. The Contact Person: marilynf@rom.on.ca. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Monday, July 23, 2 PM to 5 PM The Event: The Outer Limits of Ontario Wine; a tasting of 100% Ontario wine that is not currently VQA eligible from one of Ontario’s recognized areas. The Venue: Savoy Bistro & Lounge The Target Audience: wine trade, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: All 212 wines from 40 different wineries were available at their respective winery, but only a handful of wines were distributed by the LCBO. The catalogue was a spreadsheet listing the names and prices, websites, email addresses, and so forth, as well as sugar levels. Each booth had further information about the wines being tasted. The Quote: “The paid public tasting in the evening was donated to Grapes for Humanity which helps the victims of landmines www.grapesforhumanity.com” The Wines: My strategy, to reduce palate fatigue, was to try just those wines under 5 in sugar content. I also did not try grape wines I passed on the geisenheim, the leon millot, the chambourcin, the de chaunac, or the vidal), nor did I try blends with grapes, nor blends with spices or chocolate. I missed a lot of good wines, but I at least had the opportunity to leave my insulin pack at home! Many sweet wines sell themselves. I had hoped to taste many of these sweet wines after I tasted the off-dry ones in a pass through the booths. But it was not to be...I began tasting alphabetically, and right away ran into some of the best fruit wines I have ever had – from Applewood Farm Winery in the Stouffville area. I started with their Crazy Eight Cider, a 100% raspberry at 8.8%. The last time I had quality like this was when Lenz Moser sent us an Austrian Sparkling Raspberry wine in the previous century, under 10% alcohol. The intense raspberry flavours were phenomenal, and the mousse was certainly effervescent. I was blown away, enough to order five two-fours from www.applewoodfarmwinery.com. A 341 mL bottle costs a mere $2.50 (includes deposit). It’ll be my summer drink for the rest of the year. Don’t tell the winery, but a lot of their products are underpriced...Later I went back to try the Pear Port 2002 (fortified to 18%, sugar code of 5, $12.95 for half a litre), another phenomenal wine of intense pear flavours; it was better than my usual all-time favourite pear sweetie, the St.Jorg Cellars Poire Royale from California. I also enjoyed an experimental Caramel Apple, the Strawberry Cider (10%, fresh strawberry nose and palate – not the usual cooked jam I experienced in many other strawb concoctions; $9.95 for 750 mL), and the Mac-Meade (sparkling wine from Macintosh apples and honey, same price). Applewood Farm Winery certainly excels at sparkling fruit wines. At Archibald Orchards Estate Winery, I tried the Hard Cider NV, 6.2%, sugar 3, $8.95 750 mL, off-dry in the finish, the nifty Ida Red Oak Aged NV (12.1%, bone dry, $9.95, good oak consistency, almost like a chardonnay; I’ve still got some of their 1999 Ida red Oak Aged, which is still showing very well). The Birtch Farms and Estate Winery Oak Aged Macintosh 2004(11.5%, sugar 1, $13.95) had less oakiness but a more pronounced apple finish. Their Peach wine ($11.5%, sugar 3, $12.95) was just peachy and slightly off-dry in the finish. Their Rhubarb 2005 (one of the more difficult wines to make) was 12%, sugar 3, $13.95, and reminiscent of a fine rhubarb jam. Coffin Ridge makes an A Winey Pear 2006 ($14) which was made from wild pears. I also tried Cornerstone Estate Winery’s Cherry Festival 2005 (13% ABV, sugar 3, $9.50 for half-litre), with its off-dry cherry intensity. And their Estate Apricot Wine 2004 (10.5% ABV, sugar 4, $9.50 for 500 mL) not unsurprisingly like a fine off-dry vidal. Their Strawberry Festival (12.5%, sugar 4, $9.50 for half-litre) was a bit light in taste, but it certainly was not jammy. Cox Creek Cellars Black Currant Back Home NV ($13% ABV, bone dry, $11.70) was oak aged, good price, and highly recommended – but it does need time to resolve the wood. Nevertheless, another underpriced wine value. Downey’s Estate Winery Premium Gooseberry NV (14% ABV, bone-dry, $13.95) certainly tasted like gooseberry without the jamminess, but it was also reminiscent of sauvignon blanc. My fave gooseberry wine is from Hoodsport in Washington State. Kawartha Country Wines Black Currant 2006 (14.1% ABV, sugar 1, $14.80) showed its intense cassis nature. The Meadow Lane Winery Black Currant NV (sugar 3, $10.95) gave it a run for its money. Their Blueberry (sugar 3, $11.95) was fetching, but then I’ve never been a fan of blueberries in any form. Their Plum NV (sugar 4, $10.95) was more to my liking, with a great plum nose. Ocala Winery Heritage Apple 2006 ($9.95 litre) had fresh apples on the nose and the palate, and was good value for the price. Their Plum NV ($9.95 for 750 mL) had plums in the nose and palate, long length, a finishing acid, not very sweet, perfect as an aperitif. Pine Farms Hard Cider NV (7% ABV, dry, $5.60 for half-litre) was a good cider in a manageable format for one person. Their Macintosh Apple Wine 2006 (10.3% ABV, dry, $13.95) was also a winner, loaded with fresh flavours. Puddicombe Estates Farms Cranberry NV (10.4%, sugar 9, $15.20) was still refreshingly tart and full. The winery makes 32 different wines, including a Peach NV of good intensity and a Pear-a-dise (12% ABV, sugar 7, $18.10 for 750 mL) made from bosc, bartlett, and sugar pears. Rush Creek Orchards Pearfection NV (12.5%, dry, $10.25) showed remarkably good pear tones at this level. My fave pear wines come from Bartlett Winery (the owner’s name, not the pear) in Maine; they make a variety of different styles of pear wines, from bone dry to fortified levels. Scotch Block Elderberry NV (11.5% ABV, sugar 1, $12.95) was a useful fruit wine, stressing the elder fruit. Their Raspberry Rouge NV (11.5% ABV, sugar 1, $14.95) was very good, off-dry in tone, lots of body. Scotch Block also makes a series of currant wines, specifically Regal Red Currant NV (11.5%, sugar 1, $12.95), Regal White Currant (11.5% ABV, sugar 1, $12.95), and Regal Black Currant (11.8 ABV, sugar 1, $12.95). They would be terrific to have at any kind of blind tasting. Scotch Block Strawberry Fields NV (11.5% ABV, sugar 1, $11.95) showed ripe flavours, sweet aftertaste, but finishes in a dry mode. As I said, I’m not a fan of blueberry but I was blown away by the finish on their True Blue NV (11.5%ABV, sugar 1, $14.95). Sunnybrook Farm Estate Ironwood Hard Cider (6% ABV, off-dry, $13.15 for a six pack of 341 mL) was very fresh. County Cider Company makes a County 2000 Champenoise NV, a cider made on the traditional champagne method, from ida red, northern spy, and macintosh apples (8% ABV, sugar 1, $19.95 bottle) is certainly something many fruit wineries can aspire to. The mousse was superb, the nose all bready. My fave raspberry wines come from Hoodsport and Paul Thomas in Washington State (both for the bone dry wines) and Barghetto’s Chaucer in California for the off-dry raspberry. But after tasting today’s fruit wines from Ontario, I can safely say that I’ll be pulling my Yankee dollars and spending my fruit wine budget money at home. And I haven’t even begun to try the overthetop sweeties and iced wines here... I’m sorry I was unable to try more sweet wines. The Food: sausage cold cuts, cheeses, bread, pate. The Downside: there were very few wine writers and sommeliers, restaurateurs. Also, there was a hotch potch feel to the event, since all forms of fruit wines (dry, off-dry, mixed with non-fruit, fortified, etc.) were available, as well as some VQA grape wines (despite the original intent of the tasting). Maybe next time we should have three tastings – the grapes, the under 5 sugar codes, and the over 6 sugar codes. The Upside: a great chance to get caught up with the Ontario fruit wines. The Contact Person: sadiedarby@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96 for me, a lower number possible because of the lower trade turnout. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday, July 26, 2007 6PM to 10PM The Event: the City Bites VIP BBQ The Venue: Quadrangle at Hart House The Target Audience: food and wine writers, advertisers, etc. related to City Bites. And their families... The Availability/Catalogue: this was a partnership with various wine producers, importers, beer people, Hart House catering staff, Martini Club, plus a spinning DJ. The Quote: “Great summer evening, lots of lovely people, excellent food, nicely relaxed time!”. Lots of time to talk to cheese people such as Gurth Pretty and Kathy Guidi, as well as writers such as Zoltan Szabo, John Szabo, and Dick “City Bites” Snyder himself. The Wines: Henry of Pelham Cabernet Merlot 2005 (about 25% merlot), 14.9% ABV, powerhouse still needs taming. Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2004 (only made in good years such as 1999 and 2002), $35, and delicious lemon-apple intensity with a long finish. Riesling Reserve 2006, in screwtop, was full, ripe and voluptuous. The Rose 2006 had a screw top, and seemed perfect with most of the food. Sterling Vintners (Diageo) had their Merlot 2004 and Chardonnay 2005 from California, both $16.15, and both nicely plotted for sipping throughout, with strong nuances of wood tones and vanilla in each. Steamwhistle Beer, Mill Street Beer, Martini Club cocktails with Bacardi and Appleton rums completed the alcohol. Bottled Fiji water and Lucaffe (coffee) for intermezzos. The Food: Hart House produced some good curry wurst and sausages, french fries, curry catsup, samosas (three kinds), lamb lollipops, grilled corn on the cob, chicken tandoori, pappadums, falafel salad, and other goodies. Desserts were mostly dolce con leche cookies. The Downside: it all passed too quickly, and most party people arrived after 8 PM. The Upside: a great chance to nosh, drink, and buzz with others. The Contact Person: dick@citybites.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, August 9, 2007 Noon – 2:30 PM The Event: the launch of the Wines from Spain campaign. The Venue: Globe Bistro The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: we were supposed to taste every Spanish wine on the LCBO General List, but some promised wines were not delivered by their agents. The order of service – sampling tables – was not in order of the catalogue, so we had to flip around back and forth, which was annoying. 33 wines were listed in the catalogue, all without vintage years but the prices included their deposits. The Quote: “Hey this patio is grand – you can see the pigeons flying around, looking for their quail relatives!” The Wines: I did not try all the wines, and some were not present. Here were my faves from the GL: * Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja 2001 (+137810, $18.15): aromatic, still needs time to smooth out the finish, but long length. 13% ABV. A stronger version of Campo Viejo Crianza 2001 Rioja (+620997, $14.15). * Bodegas Martinez Bujanda Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2003 Rioja (+356089, $14.15): all tempranillo grapes, 13.5% ABV, US oak tones, rich, fruity and big. * Montecillo Reserva 2001 Rioja (+621003, $19.15): all tempranillo, 18 months in French oak, a certain elegance of good intensity and finish. A more refined version of Montecillo Crianza 2003 Rioja (+144493, $14.75). * Bodegas Osborne Dominio de Malpica Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Tierra de Castilla (+32011, $14.95): 13% ABV, very fruity, aged in new US oak for a year, great North American appeal, could be a sipper. * Castillo de Almansa Reserva La Mancha (+270363, $10.10 750 mL; +649749, $20.20 for 1500 mL): a good value red made with Rioja grapes of tempranillo, monastrell, garnacha. The Castillo de Almansa Seleccion 2001 La Mancha (+16535, $20.15) at 13.5% has syrah tones. * Toro Tinta de Toro 2005 Toro (+19570, $12.95) seems like a tora, tora, tora wine given the number of toros on the label. Rice is good, 14.5% ABV is hot, and the resolution is still tight. You’ll need to sit on it awhile. * Marques de Riscal Reserva 2003 Rioja (+32656, $23.75) is one of the longest running wine shows in Ontario. Here the 14% drink is soft and fruity, with an edge to the finish, as befits the hot vintage year. * Penascal Tempranillo 2004 Castilla y Leon (+343434, $9.15) has always appeared to be substantial value in Ontario; 13.5% ABV, black fruit shines. The magnum (+349795) is even better value at $17.15. * Torres Sangre de Toro 2005 Cataluna (+6585, $11.75) is another wine that has been here in Ontario forever. It is now a twist top, 13.5% ABV, ripe and round and fruity, made with grenache and carignan – the Rhone varieties. * Rene Barbier Tempranillo Merlot 2005 Penedes (+640193, $9.70): 75% tempranillo, balance merlot, US oak, 13% ABV, and exceptional all the way. Also available for tasting were Osborne Ducal Shiraz-Tempranillo 2004 (Tetra, +11783, $13.15 for a litre) from the Tierra de Castilla, aged in US oak, 14% ABV AND the Osborne Solaz Shiraz-Tempranillo 2004 +620922, $10.25 for 750 mL) a 50-50 blend from both the Maplica de Tajo and the Tierra de Castilla regions, aged in US oak, 14%.(I got this data from their promo sheet). I was assured that this was the same wine, available in both Tetra and bottle, and priced accordingly. Yet I could detect a bit more oak in the finish in the bottle version. It’s worth buying both and trying to figure it all out... The Food: tapas, of course, and serve-yourself style. Quail, chicken, lamb and tomato, vegetable sushi, plus a half dozen correctly presented Spanish cheeses. But I didn’t see any olives or nuts. The Downside: flipping through the catalogue, the occasional rain drop. The Upside: a good chance to plow through the current LCBO General List offerings. The Contact Person: toronto@mcx.es The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JUNE 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com PRODUCTS AND SAMPLES TASTED THIS MONTH ====================================== * Hillebrand Trius White 2006 VQA Niagara ($18.95) is a “Conundrum”- type blend that is so popular – a versatile wine for sipping or drinking with food. Darryl Brooker the winemaker took all the aromatics at Christmas 2006 and sampled them all, ending up with a blend that is 33% gewurztraminer, 30% riesling, 28% pinot gris (barrel fermented and barrel aged) and 9% unoaked chardonnay. It’s a quality summer wine, at 12.5% ABV, with a variety of flavours and textures. The notes say lychee, melon, citrus, apricot, but not baked fruit, to which I could add vanilla from the slight wood treatment. This wine should next be available with a twist top, as is the vogue for trendy whites. And actually a spot of chardonnay musque may also fit. * Hillebrand Trius Red 2005 ($19.95, oak finish), 13.5% ABV. Hillebrand lost 80% of its crop in 2005, thus there is not a lot of this wine around. In fact, no Grand Trius Red was made. Black fruits dominate, with 47% cabernet sauvignon, 43% cabernet franc, and 11% merlot in the blend. One year in oak, and it is dark all the way (think dark plums, 70% chocolate, smokey charred toast, even tobacco leaf). Needs time, but it will repay. 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 11 AM to 6 PM The Event: Wines of Alsace and the Rhone Valley tasting, sponsored by the Embassy of France, Economic Commission, and Sopexa. The Venue: Carlu The Target Audience: wine trade only The Availability/Catalogue: a nicely packaged spiral bound flip book, one half for Alsace and one half for the Rhone. There were about 20 Alsatian producers, all white except for a smattering of rose and pinot noir red. There were about 27 producers from the Rhone, mainly from the southern part and mainly red wines. The catalogue had floor plans of the show, cross-references between producers and agents, names and addresses of all involved (with emails) for contacts. Only three Rhone producers were looking for agents; consequently, everything tasted should have been available via the LCBO, consignment or private order. Basic information on the two regions was summarized, and this was followed by producer listings (with production figures and wine and food pairings, grapes used, etc.). Unfortunately, prices were not noted. The Quote: “A great leisurely pace to taste wines”. The Wines: here were some of my favourite whites from the show – * Dopff Irion Riesling 2004 Domaine de Chateau de Riquewihr “Les Murailles” (very riesling in its complexity) and their Gewurztraminer 2005 (lots of gewurztraminer flavour, +81463, $15.95, both Authentic Wines and Spirits). * Pierre Sparr Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rose (substantial body for a sparkler, $19.95, Barrique Wine Imports), and Riesling Grand Cru Mambourg 2002 (intense fruit, $31.95) and the more intense Pinot Gris Grand Cru Mambourg 2002 (same price). * Gustave Lorentz Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim 2002 (solid aromas and finishing length, Diamond Estates, $34.95). * Domaine Saint-Remy Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 2005 (intense, off-dry, Eurovintage). * Domaine Weinbach Riesling Cuvee Sainte-Catherine 2004 (bone-dry elegance, Lifford Wine Agency), the soft dry and delicious Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence 2004, the Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence 2004 (about $85, incredibly rich), and the stunning Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Selection de Grains Nobles 2004 ($500 a bottle). All the Weinbach wines have limited production, ranging from 1400 bottle to 8,000. * Domaine Albert Mann Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2005 ($36, bone dry, Small Winemakers Collection). * Leon Beyer Riesling “R de Beyer” 2002 (a blend of declassified crus, good value for bone dry riesling, Trilogy). Their Riesling Comtes de’Eguisheim 2002 ($50, has intensity followed by a food acid finish, no flab anywhere). The Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris in this series are also benchmarks at the same price. * Cremant Brut d’Alsace Blanc de Blancs ($18.95 sparkler, a true aperitif wine, Vergina Import) * Alsace Willm Gewurztraminer 2004 Late Harvest ($41.85, yummy succulence, Churchill) * Dopff au Moulin Gewurztraminer Sigille Riquewihr 2003 ($24.95, one of the best table wines at the show in view of the price and the hot vintage, my notes say “dynamite”, Churchill. * Allimant-Laugner Muscat 2006 ($16 from La Merla, just peachy in style, lots of flavours for sipping). * Binner Audrey et Christian Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf 2005 ($26.95, grand cru level, good definition on mid-palate and finishing length, Merchant Vintner). * Willy Gisselbrecht Cremant d’Alsace Blanc de Noirs 2003 ($15.95, September Vintages, Torion, tight mousse and red wine body. The Gewurztraminer Reserve Speciale 2006 is a bargain at $16.50 or so at a future Vintages. * Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer 2004 Princes Abbes ($24, Vintages soon, Torion, had great MVC and a good finish, excellent palate, reasonable price). Here are some of my favourite red wines – * Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition Rouge 2005 ($16.95, all syrah from Nimes and with that Euro taste of syrah, Torion). * E. Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003 ($86.75, Vintages in November, ripe but not ready yet, very dramatic with 4% viognier added, Torion), The Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis 2003($170) will also be available, through the Classics online catalogue. Meanwhile, check out the Saint Joseph Rouge 2003, all syrah, $35, a bit lighter in style but equally complex. * Chateau de Clapier Cuvee Soprano ($22.85, Merchant Vintner, worth singing about with its direct hit of a dominating 55% syrah). * Delas Freres Saint Joseph Francois de Tournon 2004 ($32.95, HHD Imports, light in style but smokey upfront tones, all syrah). * Chateau Pesquie Quintessence 2003 Cotes du Ventoux ($25, Edward’s Wine, 80% syrah dominates in this hot vintage, will it repeat?). * Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle 2003 ($159, Halpern, fruit forward but still needs time and will reward patience). Meanwhile, try the Cornas Domaine de Saint Pierre 2001, an older wine, $49, all syrah, soft, developing, and ready. One of the more approachable restaurant- ready red wines at the show. * Les Vignerons de Laudun Sublimescence 2003 ($20, Portfolio Wines, 60/40 grenache syrah spread, a fine wine for the money, excellent price for the quality. Domaine Le Grand Vallat Le Domaine 2003 ($17, Portfolio) delivers equally paced flavours, at a lower price, some anise tones, 50/50 syrah/grenache split. * Chateau Mourgues du Gres Terre d’Argence 2005 ($20, soft, approachable, useful restaurant wine, 80% syrah and 20% grenache, The Case for Wine). * Domaine de la Citadelle Gouverneur St Auban 2003 ($20, Vinexx, 70% syrah, nicely aged, restaurant-ready to roll. The Food: food was substantial, but not really indicative of the two regions’ abilities. Cheeses were non-specific. The Downside: the Rhone component was mainly the southern district. There were very few syrah based wines, and very few Northern Rhone wines. The Upside: kudos to the enlightened publicists of Sopexa who let the wine press in at 11 AM rather than 2 PM. This gave us an extra three hours to try more wines and to arrange for interviews. They’ve been doing this in Quebec and now in Toronto? Hopefully so. The Contact Person: valerie.jolivet@sopexa.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8 AM to 7 PM The Event: Niagara Wine Tour by the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. The Venue: Niagara – Tawse Winery, Flat Rock Cellars (lunch too), and Fielding Estates. The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: winery visits The Quote: “Luxurious bus sent by the Wine Council on Ontario to pick us up and escort us to and from the region.” The Wines: Our first port of call at 10 AM was Tawse Winery. This is a six level gravity winery, with “eco-friendly” near organic grapes. They make only 6100 cases (12 packs). Pascal Marchand (formerly with Boisset, now an independent) is their consulting winemaker; he flies in from Burgundy for about 5 weeks a year. Different vineyards amongst the 40 acres produce different styles of wine. We started on the crush pad and descended from there. We toured the naturally cool barrel room and tried barrel samples of Chardonnay 2006 Robyn’s Block (good balance of fruit and acidity, a bit sharp on the finish, unfiltered) and Chardonnay 2006 Quarry Vineyard (more buttery, longer finish, 10 year old vines). Both will be bottled in January 2008, and released in Summer 2008. Pinot Noir 2006 Laundry Vineyard sample showed real red fruit, some greenness at this stage, but elegance. From the bottle, we continued to taste at the tasting room bar. Chardonnay Estate 2004 was full and open, toasty balance, delicious. The Riesling 2006 Carly’s Block, at 10.5%, was bright, very New World of Oz. The Riesling 2006 20 Mile Bench was more dynamic, more a food and citric finish (200 cases). The Merlot/Cab Franc 2005 David’s Block was 13.5%, full and lush, $35, 2066 bottles made. Tawse puts all wines under cork. Flat Rock Cellars was next; they bottle everything under screwcap and can claim to be the first winery in the world to bottle Icewine under this closure. Flat Rock believes in clones. Marlize Beyers is the winemaker; she comes from South Africa. We toured and tried the Unplugged Chardonnay 2006 ($16.95), a totally unoaked wine that blended two clones, with MLF in stainless. Still a bit austere, as was the Gewurztraminer 2006 ($18.95) – both were first efforts and geared to be food wines. Nadja's Vineyard Riesling 2006 ($19.95) is one of the top riesling food wines. Twisted 2006 ($16.95) is the winery’s take on aromatic wines, meant for summer principally. Good dry finish, nice price. The Estate Riesling 2006 ($16.95) showed off-dry summer tropicality, New World style, sip or food. Pinot Noir Rose 2006 ($14.95) had some riesling and gewurztraminer added. Salmon colour, nicely dry. Chardonnay Estate 2005 ($16.95) was blend of stainless and French barrel fermentation, balanced acid, finishes dry. Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2005 ($25.95) had caramel and citrus green tones, nicely oaked. Pinot Noir Estate 2005 ($19.95) was a fruit-driven noir, aged in French oak for 11 months. Gravity Pinot Noir 2005 ($29.95) had dynamite complexity, warm and developing, raspberry, anise, Burgundian elegance, tight structure with some length, needing just time to open. The last winery we visited was Fielding, whose first vintage was 2002, although the winery itself has only been open to the public since 2005. They use a lot of varietals to make 15 wines and 10,000 cases. They have 13 acres plus another 30 under contract. Ray Cornell, formerly with Hernder, is the winemaker. Most of the wines are in the twenty dollar range. After the tour of the tanks, the barrels of French and US oak, the vineyards, and the bottling line, we began the tasting. Ray makes an Alsatian-styled Gewürztraminer Reserve 2006 ($22, 200 cases) with roses, raspberries, lychees, thick body, and a long finish but without the bitterness. A Gold Medal winner at the 2007 OWA. His Riesling Reserve 2006 ($22, 250 cases) is also Alsatian in mode, with lots of finishing acid. Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($20, 300 cases) was off-dry, California old style, almost a Late Harvest. Very ripe. Cabernet Franc Reserve Unfiltered 2005 ($28, 273 cases) was aromatic, tannins throughout but could be ready soon. Leafy and mocha. Chardonnay Reserve 2006 (barrel sample, low twenties in price) was all butterscotch, with good body and development. The Food: lunch was in the Flat Cellars tasting room, with their tasting wines to compare and contrast. We had pea soup and asparagus (spring time veggies) with a poached egg, flank steak and veggies, tart dessert. Good matches for the wines. The Downside: awfully early to get up, and we still got caught in traffic. The Upside: a wonderful exposure to three top Ontario wineries in one day, with someone else to do the driving. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96. 3. The Time and Date: Saturday, June 23, 2007, 2:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: a tasting of Israeli wines being released today at Vintages, including the fugitive ISDs. The Venue: special tasting room at LCBO Scrivener Square. The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: six wines were released today at Vintages; the others we tasted may be available at some point. The Quote: “It was really informative to have the winemakers here – they could answer all the technical questions”. The Wines: We tasted some 9 wines, all in the presence of someone from the winery. * Vitkin Israeli Journey White 2006 ($16.95, +35089): 60% viognier, 30% French Colombard and 10% gewurztraminer. Soft, fruity, intense quality sipper, useful form summer; slight sweet limes, some slight yeast, and some gewurztraminer complexity shows through. Creamy and peachy too. Orange blossoms with fresh acid. Great price. * Vitkin Carignan 2005 ($19.95, +35071): good fruit, spicy and pepper, US oak – 20% new. Black fruit and vanilla tones, elegant, but needs heavy food, Rhonish fashioned. Some dark chocolate. * Tulip Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95, +35097): all cabby. The company’s blends are in the “Mostly” range. 14.1% ABV. 6 to 12 months French and US oak. Hard varietal nose, hearty but Old World style, not fruit forward. Some greenness, almost a cab franc tone. * Flam Classico 2005 ($27.95, +35105): A 50-50 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, shows cedar and other Bordeaux character in the nose, followed by spicy black fruit and mocha. A somewhat tough wine that will repay to cellar. 14.5% ABV. * Saslove Cabernet Sauvignon Adom 2004 ($29.95, +33720 ISD): hey, lotsa wood here, load up for the winter fireplace sippers. New World and new wood nose, new wood on palate, coconut and mint tones (think chocolate bars), tobacco and spices, mocha, long aftertaste. Blackcurrants. Lush and plush. A syrah-styled yeast was used. 13.5% ABV. * Sea Horse Antoine Syrah 2004 ($35.95, +33738 ISD7): tight black fruit, smokey, long length, slight vinegar finish due to acidification(?). Organic wine. 13.5% ABV. * Ya'ar Yatir Forrest Red 2003 Judean Hills ($49.95, +35055): 82% cabernet sauvignon with merlot. Basic CS blend, bright and round, fruit-driven in the Oz style. Balanced fruit, spices, chocolate, etc. * Margalit Cabernet Franc 2004 ($39.95, +35050): 88% cabernet franc, rest cabernet sauvignon. Good blend with cedar, vanilla, currants, lots of red fruits showing, nicely aged, single vineyard. 14 % ABV. * Margalit Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($59.95, +35048 ISD): 88% cabernet sauvignon, balance merlot. Well-aged and ready now (maybe better last year), slightly oxidized (2 samples), but it was better in the LCBO Kitchen later. Some leather and dried plums. The Food: small cubes of cheddar cheese. I went into the LCBO Kitchen Lab where the winemakers were serving consumers, and discovered some more cheeses and cheese straws. The Downside: it was a Saturday, away from my family. The Upside: a good chance to catch-up with Israeli wines. The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 11 AM to 2 PM The Event: a tasting of Reh Kendermann Black Tower German wines at lunch, repped by Corby’s. The Venue: Monsoon. The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: we had four wines, only one was not currently available. The Quote: “Well, these are not your mom’s Black Tower wines”. The Wines: Kendermann has done a massive retooling job, based on many samplings and polls (principally in the UK). It has come up with some German wines with pizzazz, and still affordable. While it has the name of Black Tower (which everybody knows about for brand recognition), it also has the lack of cachet that Black Tower brings. Conundrum? Maybe, and it will take some time to overcome...The new winemaker is Christine Prostler, a young German who cut her winemaking teeth in both South Africa and New Zealand, in the cool climate regions. Her first vintage was 2006, all at QbA levels. The new wines are varietal, with AP numbers, and evoke freshness. Black Tower is currently the number one German wine brand in Canada, the UK and Scandinavia. It sells one million cases in over 52 countries. Here are the current offerings in Ontario: * Black Tower Riesling 2006 (+589184, $10.95): made from 12-18 year old vines. Pfalz area, cool climate, appley limes, dry side of riesling, food wine. * Black Tower Pinot Grigio 2006 ($12.95 litre Tetra Pak, mid-August): Rheinhesen wine. peachy nose, off-dry PG quality (not Italianate), good body, 11% ABV, long dry length. * Black Tower Rivaner 2006 (+336503, $9.15): Rheinhessen area. In the basic Black Tower black bottle. Medium dry, Muller Thurgau grape, modest length, sipper. * Black Tower Dornfelder Pinot Noir 2006 (+580118, $10.95): Pfalz area. 60% dornfelder, rest pinot noir. Modest cherry pinot hit, simple tones, refreshing, best chilled (more cherries in the chilling). The room temperature version was a bit flabby. The Food: Baby greens in a pappadum cup with the riesling (great match), Japanese potato salad with pickled ginger with the pinot grigio (riesling also went well; pinot grigio seemed to go well with everything), Shanghai noodles with spiced pork (rivaner: but best with pinot grigio and dornfelder), and Indochine sirloin beef with green mango salad with the dornfelder, but best with the pinot grigio. The Downside: many wine writers were out-of-town and missed the function. The Upside: a smaller group made for better conversation. The Contact Person: sebastien.ouellet@corby.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MAY 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH * Stoney Ridge Chardonnay 2004 VQA Niagara, +292839, $13.80: this is a replacement for the former “Bench Chardonnay” (now that Bench has its own sub-appellation meaning in VQA lingo). It is 2004 Chardonnay from stock (stainless plus oak aging blend) and 2004 Chardonnay Musque, all at 13% ABV. It is quite engaging, with a full range and the hues of an MVC – tropical fruit (mangoes, pineapples, etc.) PLUS citric, pear, and apple tones, wrapped up in a light vanilla oaky mid-palate, somewhat creamy with lush fruit. A useful competitor to all the fresh and fruity white wines on the market. It could also have been designed for Asiatic meals. Great value for the price. * Badacsonyi Muscat Ottonel 2004 Szeremley Estate Hungary, +655308 Vintages, $14.95: more floral goodies from Central Europe. The dry muscat quality has aromas of acacia and tropical fruits, with a just peachy mid-palate, easing off into finishing crispness. Aperitif? Yes, along with fruit-based dishes and Asian food. * Rietvallei Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Robertson South Africa, +19034 Vintages, $13.95: one of the better and affordable SBs from SA, twist top, normal alcohol levels (12.5% ABV), a bit of minerality and greeness (green figs, gooseberries, underripe grapefruit, grassy) but balanced with sufficient fruit to go with a lightly dressed seafood salad. 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 2, 2007 11 AM – 2 PM The Event: a lunch tasting with Erica Crawford of Kim Crawford Wines (New Zealand). The Venue: Library Room, Fairmont Royal York Hotel. The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: This was the official launch of the Small Parcels label in Canada. Small Parcels are mostly hand-picked, whole bunch pressed grapes from selected sections of vineyards. In other words, they are the best grapes from several vineyards, not from “single” vineyards. All of them are – or will be – available in twist tops. The Quote: “We’ll be ready soon – Erica’s tied up by the LCBO”. The Wines: The SP Anderson Bone Dry Marlborough Riesling 2004 (very Ontario-like) is $24.95 on private order; the Reka Sweet Riesling 375mL 2004 is also on private order ($19.95). The other seven wines we tried came from a series of upcoming releases. Here’s a breakdown of the SP wines; they were all priced at a uniform $29.95 -- * SP Spitfire Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006, August 2007 Vintages: a big wine, aromatic, gooseberries, Loire-like, needs some time. 250 six- packs are coming, just in time for the end of summer. * SP Boyszone Marlborough Pinot Gris 2006, October 2007 Vintages: lots of body with aromatics contributed from a small amount of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and even Chardonnay. * SP Comely Bank Marlborough Pinot Noir 2004, Spring 2007 Classics: dense, chunky, very burgundy-like, bacon smoke, complex, some wild yeast in the fermentation mix. 14% ABV. * SP Te Awanga Hawkes’s Bay Merlot 2004, now at Vintages: black fruit, oak, soft, off-dry feel, 13.4% ABV. * SP Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2002, July 2007 Vintages: cassis, oaky gamey, mouthfilling, food tannins, 14% ABV. My fave of the tasting, well-aged and ready to roll. The Food: basic chicken. The Downside: we were supposed to start at 11, but then we were al contacted to start at 11:30. But it was after 12:15 when it all began. The Upside: a chance to taste some limited production wines from New Zealand. The Contact Person: Scot Montgomery, Vincor Canada, 905-564-6900, ext. 5709. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday May 8, 2007 2:30 PM – 7 PM The Event: Consignment Joint Portfolio tasting for Hobbs & Co and Airen Imports. The Venue: University of Toronto Faculty Club The Target Audience: restaurateurs, private customers, sommeliers, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: tasting booklets clearly outlined and explained the contexts of the wines, with prices at licensee and retail levels, plus availability. The Quote: “It’s great to be tasting at such a low key but well- attended portfolio do”. Hobbs had 36 wines; Airen had 10. The Wines: I tasted just about all the wines. Here are my faves with retail prices – From Airen – Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs sparkler from Sonoma ($31.30; toasty, good fine mousse, apple-pear-citrus range); Estampa Viognier Chardonnay 2006 from Chile ($25.25; stone fruit, rounded, chardonnay finishes off dry); Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 from Lake County ($20.55; softish, restaurant-ready, ripe black fruit). From Hobbs – Swings & Roundabouts Cabernet Merlot 2004 from the Margaret River ($22.05; hot meritage-bordeaux style, 14.5% ABV, lots of olives, anise, mocha, menthol, etc.); Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from Marlborough NZ ($20.50; intense grass and grapefruit flavours); Hartenberg Estate Chardonnay 2005 from Stellenbosch ($22.90; 14% ABV, toasty, not subtle, long finish, great oaky MVC, my best overall white of the day); Hartenberg Shiraz 2003 from Stellenbosch ($34.85; yummy richness, luscious fruit, long length to the finish, top rated, my best overall red of the day); Saisons de Beauchene Viognier 2005 d’Oc ($14; exceptionally aromatic, dry mode, but great as a sipper or food wine); Chateau Grand Moulin Vieilles Vignes 2003 Corbieres ($21.65; from that hot year, anise and plums, 50% syrah); Chateau Balestard la Tonnelle St.Emilion Grand Cru Classe 1995 ($62.15; hard to find quality this old at this price; a charmer classic with soft, well-aged Euro-merlot tones. Try it at a BYOW restaurant venue); Felline Primitivo di Manduria 2004 from Italy ($20.25; intense ripe flavours, dense and chunky, but ready to drink now, 14% ABV); Bodegas Barreda Torre de Barreda 2003 from Spain’s Castilla region ($15.90; with only three months in new US oak this wine delivers a ton of smoke and fruit. The barrels must have been set at a heavy toast and not primed first. Great heavy-heavy wine for the price. Wins my prize for best wine value of the day.). The Food: cheeses, pates, dips, breads. The Downside: I just wish Airen had more of their wines here – the portfolio looked interesting. The Upside: great space for a tasting, a great team of pourers. The Contact Person: www.hobbswines.com (416-694-3689) and www.airen.com (416-604-4076) The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 3. The Time and Date: Wednesday May 9, 2007 2PM – 5 PM The Event: Lifford Wine Tasting 2007 The Venue: Eglinton Event Theatre. The Target Audience: wine trade in the afternoon; private clients in the evening. The trade donated $20 a person to charity. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are here, or will be, as part of Lifford’s stocking program. Many principals (winemakers, owners, export managers) poured for us. The Quote: “This has to be a mini-Sante, given that there are wines from all over the world and that principals are pouring”. The Wines: the room was divided into countries. I started with the left side (California) and moved along to Italy on the right. Here are some notes for the wines that I enjoyed: * Humberto Canale Rio Negro Gran Reserva Malbec 2005 ($32; good ripeness, depth) * Hollick Coonawarra Reserve Chardonnay 2005 ($23.50, single vineyard, barrel-fermented); Wilgha Shiraz 2003 ($45.95; ripe stuffing); Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($55.50; one of the best wines at the show) * Poole’s Rock Hunter Valley Cockfighter’s Ghost Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($24.50, very minty) * Shingleback McLaren Vale D-Block Shiraz 2003 ($79.50; dynamite) * Echeverria Chile Central Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004 ($16.99) and Cabernet Sauvignon Family Reserve 2004 ($30.95) were both very Euro in style. * Louis Jadot Pommard 2002 ($61.95, very good on palate) * Zinck Gewurztraminer 2005 Grand Cru Eichberg ($32.50) and Gewurztraminer 2005 Grand Cru Rangen ($75) were slightly off-dry but very ripe in their aromatic expression) * Zinck Riesling 2005 Grand Cru Goldart ($33) and Riesling 2005 Grand Cru Rangen ($55) were great food wines, perhaps the best of the event. * Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti 2005 ($14.99) is always one of my favourite sippers. * Staete Landt Marlborough Chardonnay 2005 ($34.95) was very young still but very good. * Hidden Valley Stellenbosch Shiraz 2005 ($19.95) was very toothy, full value. * La Motte Franschhoek Millennium 2004 ($24.95) at 14.5% ABV was a soft blend with a long finish. Its Pierneef Shiraz Viognier 2005 ($30.95) was a very good blend but needed time. * Abadia Retuerta Castilla y Leon Seleccion Especial 2004 ($31) took me by surprise – it was a weighty wine at 13.5% ABV. I drank a lot of Abadia 20 years ago when it came in at $4 a bottle. * Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Merlot 2003 ($30.95) and Tribute Napa 2004 ($60.95) were tightly wound, but some of the best reds from California at this show. * Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($110) was full, dense and complex, but I had little time examine it all. * Coppola Rubicon Estate CASK Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($110) was well- rounded and nicely developed, ready now. * Schug Sonoma Chardonnay 2005 ($31.950 was very good, lots of body and flavour from California. The Food: exotic cheese from Alex Farms, plus breads. The Downside: fame has made the trade show crowded. I was lucky to get there early and taste the wines I wanted. The Upside: great idea to raise funds. The Contact Person: steve@liffordwineagency.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 10, 2007. 11 AM - noon The Event: Tasting of Champagne Henriot The Venue: Royal Canadian Yacht Club – St. George Location The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: most champagnes are coming in, or are already here. The Quote: “It’s the beginning of a great wine tasting day...from here to South Africa and thence to Sante” The Wines: we tried Henriot Brut Souverain NV, a good basic crisp style for $59. The company concentrates on details, blending, and reserve stocks. Their average percentage of fine crus is 97%. Their best wine has always been the Brut Rose, especially for the colour. Good potential for $75. The Vintage Brut 1996 was outstanding, and at a mere $88. The Classics Catalogue has the Vintage Brut 1990 in magnums for only $195, which is a very good price for the age of the wine. The Henriot Cuvee des Enchanteleurs 1995 was the best sparkler for its expression, but a regular bottle will set you back $195. The Food: cheeses and smoked salmon. The Downside: we have to have a palate for a lot of wines today. The Upside: a great beginning to the day The Contact Person: Russell Woodman at www.woodmanwinesandspirits.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 5. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 10, 2007, 12:30 PM to 2 PM The Event: Wines of South Africa Trade Seminar The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: 13 wines were presented, and most were available, if only by Private Order. The Quote: “The seminar was informative and brisk – we finished on time, which is all I ask when there are some 400 other wines to taste in less than three hours.” The Wines: There were six whites and seven reds. Each was presented by an agent or a winemaker or an export director. Steve Thurlow moderated, and there were many informational queries and even a discussion or two, The wines ranged from an easy limish Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2006 through an Eikendal Chenin Blanc 2006 ($16 private order, 14.5% ABV, 60% BF, nice oak complexity), a Maverick Chenin Blanc 2005 (almost an off-dry chardonnay in tone), to a Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2005 (balanced, toasty). In the reds, the Delheim Grand Reserve 2003 was stunning, and my fave of the seminar (long bordeaux- like finish). Tantra Limited Release 2004 (cabernet franc, merlot, malbec) was taut enough to remind me of tantric sex...Lammershoek Pinotage 2005 had lots of flavour and longish length. Graham Beck The Ridge Syrah 2002, while young tasting, had the full MVC of Rhone syrah. Laborie Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 was revealing in its aging. The Contact Person: cstrenholme@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 10, 2007, 2PM – 5 PM The Event: Sante Trade Tasting The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: wine press, wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: The deal with Sante is that the wines should be available. There was an LCBO store on premise, but it was not restocked at all. Most wines there were only in lots of a case each. And some of the wines were selling for far below Consignment price. Many, many trade people queued up at the end of the show to take advantage of the prices. As in previous years, the catalogue was a spiral bound book, 4 x 6 inches, fits nicely in the hand and in the pocket. Filled with adverts to pay the bills, the catalogue has a page for each winery, with names and addresses, agents, websites, etc., plus a small descriptive paragraph for each. Nominally, four wines are on each table, and they are listed with space for notes. Just the vintages are given, not the price or the terms of availability. This year, the wineries ranged from African Terroir through to Waterford Wine Estate – both in South Africa, which used Sante to showcase their wines. The Quote: “It’s a little more open this year, fewer people seem to be here. And where’s the bread?” The Wines: Winery principals are supposed to be in attendance, to answer questions and so forth. I find that this works best at a trade fair when there is more time, say a few days, to taste the samples. Otherwise, it seems like a good idea for the winemaker to be here for the winemaker dinners, of course. With about 400 wines, there is really no time to chat. Follow-up questions can come later. Ideally, what I like is for somebody to pour me a half-ounce or so, and tell me alcohol percentage, price and availability (vintages, general, consignment, private, etc.) – without my having to ask for this data. Too often that doesn’t happen. Within that time constraint, I am lucky to taste one wine every two minutes. Over a three hour period, that’s 90 wines (not including pee time). Under the terms of Sante, all the wines are supposed to be available in the system. I started with champagnes: Taittinger Brut Reserve and Brut Prestige Rose hit the spot. I ended with Taylor Fladgate 10 and 20 Year Old Tawny, personal favourites of mine. I decided to concentrate on New World wines, so here are the wines that I was struck by: Angels Gate Chardonnay ON VQA 2005 (dry toasty), Bon Courage Shiraz 2004 (South Africa, and part of the high volume consignment program, $16.60), Bouchard Finlayson Blanc de Mer 2006(a SA blend of sauvignon blanc, viognier, riesling, chardonnay, and pinot blanc, off-dry, $18), Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2005 BC VQA (mid- $30 for licensees), Burrowing Owl Merlot 2004 BC VQA (tasty with a great finish), Cape Legends Uitkyk Cabernet Shiraz 2003 (great blend, good fruit, very bordeaux-like even with the shiraz), Cave Spring Chardonnay Reserve 2004 ON VQA (butterscotch tones), Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2005 Estate ON VQA (well-oaked), Clos du Bois Chardonnay 2005 and Merlot 2004 were perfect (as always) restaurant- ready wines. Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere 2004 was surprisingly tart but bright, extremely good with substantial food. Coyote’s Run Cabernet Franc 2005 ON VQA was an interesting MVC in complexity. Creekside Reserve Chardonnay 2005 Butler’s Grant ON VQA was good value at $18, probably the best of the Ontario chardonnays on show today. Delheim Shiraz 2004 South Africa showed intense concentration. Dog Ridge Duck Chase Petit Verdot 2005 McLaren Vale was soft and off-dry fruity. Engelbrecht Els Cirrus Syrah 2004 South Africa was very Rhonish but also $55; more affordable is their Proprietor’s Blend 2004 ($39.95, with all five of the bordeaux varieties plus syrah). All of the Cathedral Cellar line, from South Africa, was pretty darn good: the Cabernet, the Chardonnay, and the Shiraz, at Vintages from time to time at mid-teens in dollars. Quail’s Gate Chenin Blanc 2006 BC VQA showed very good style for $19, as did their Limited Release Old Vines Foch 2004 ($25). One of the best of the South African wines on show was Rust en Vrede, with its Estate Red 2003 (60% cabernet, 30% shiraz, 10% merlot at $45) and its Shiraz 2003 at $30. Another restaurant-ready winery is Napa Valley’s Rutherford Hill with its Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Chardonnay 2005, and Merlot 2003. The cabernet was nicely aged. Napa Valley’s St. Supery has a solid everyday Sauvignon Blanc 2006, and a fantastic, dynamite, blow-me-away Elu Red Meritage 2002 ($70US). Steenberg Shiraz 2005 South Africa had a great syrah hit. The Vina Errazuriz Max Reserva line was great value ($15 – 20); the cab showed depth, the merlot was soft, but the shiraz was the best of all with gobs of fruit and character. The Food: three artisanal cheeses from the Dairy Farmers of Canada were provided. Last year there were four cheeses, with some bread. Is this some retrenchment? The Downside: too little time OR too many wines, lack of bread beyond some cubes at the tables. The Upside: a chance to taste some newer wines that don’t make it over here all that often. And – because of the reduced crowds – there was plenty of San Pellegrino sparkling water to drink. The Contact Person: try the wine organizer steve@stevethurlow.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 80. 7. The Time and Date: Saturday, May 12, 2007 noon to 1:30 PM The Event: Sante Seminar: “Cheese and Wine, a heavenly combo”, with wine writer Ed Feinstein and cheese educator Kathy Guidi. The Venue: Park Hyatt The Target Audience: consumers – it was a sellout crowd for a basic seminar for beginners. The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines were at Sante, and are available in the system somewhere. All of the cheeses are in specialty stores (e.g., Cheese Boutique, Alex Farms, etc.) The Quote: “There’s a great crowd here!” The Wines and the Food: both Kathy and Ed quickly covered the terrain of wine and cheese pairing, with basic principles explained. We each had a platter of six cheeses and six wines. We were to taste each cheese against each wine, after first tasting the wine and the cheese separately. By being sparing with my tasting samples, I was able to taste all the wines against the neighbouring cheeses and vice versa. It was great fun. Here are some notes – * St.Martine raw cow milk from Quebec (creamy mushroom flavours) with Cape Campbell Limited Edition Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough (good viscosity and grassy-hay match with the cheese). This wine did not go well with the Champfleury (next). * Champfleury pasteurized cow milk from Quebec (earthy butter), paired with Fresco Averoff Savatino-Roditis from Greece (mild aromatics, higher acidity). * Fin Renard from Quebec (Gouda-like, but earthy) with Nichols Edna Ranch Chardonnay from California (butterscotch flavours). The Nichols lost its oak tones with the Champfleury (above). * Niagara Gold from Ontario (Guernsey cows, single vineyard cheese, grass and fruit) with the Coyotes Run Pinot Noir VQA Niagara (young, green, light and tart, a perfect match for many cheeses). The Fin Renard became very buttery with the Pinot Noir. * Corvo from Ontario (Portuguese-style of cheddar) with the Meges Cotes du Rhone Plan du Dieu (syrah and grenache blend, viscous, spicy black fruit). The Corvo became buttery, but it was a bland blend of flavours. The Niagara Gold died with this Rhone. * Le Ciel de Charlevoix raw cow milk from Quebec (blue cheese) with Chateau des Charmes Riesling Icewine Paul Bosc Estate VQA Niagara 2004 (intense sweetness, good racy acidity on finish, good staying power) merged nicely together. The Downside: too short a time! Also, more bread would have been useful. The Upside: great idea to pair wine and cheese – we need more these. Kathy does one every year at Sante. The Contact Person: steve@stevethurlow.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 8. The Time and Date: Monday, May 14, 2007, 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: a tasting of Chandon sparkling wines, from California, conducted by Tom Tiburzi, winemaker, with service by the agent, Select Wines. The Venue: Royal York Hotel, Salon #1 The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: we worked our way through a number of tiers. Basic is the first, followed by Reserve line and then the third tier, Etoile. It was a treat to have the winemaker present: he was suitably grilled. The Quote: “The category for the rose sparkler market is trending upwards”. The Wines: Chandon Brut Classic NV, the standard, +94946, $23.95: “soft, yet dry”, with apples and pears, creaminess from yeast and ML fermentation, party pleaser, palate refresher. 60Ch/30PN/10Pinot Meunier * Chardon Blanc de Noirs NV, $24.75, upcoming Vintages: red fruit of strawbs, currants, strong cherries, les austere than the Classic, good flavour profile, * Chandon Brut Rose, $26.75, upcoming Vintages: creaminess from the Chardonnay component, 10% still pinot noir added, red fruit and stone fruit dominate, spicy too. * Chandon Riche, about $25, not yet in Ontario market: 15% muscat grape, and it dominates, “extra dry” mode, almost like a heavier prosecco, peach tones, pinot noir adds astringency and tannins to the finish, for spicy/Asian dishes, or desserts and pates. * Chandon Etoile Brut, about $42 if in Ontario: elegant, very much like real Champagne (but also at real champagne prices), 5 years on lees, creamy hazelnuts, 75% chardonnay, 25% pinot noir, drawn from over 60 base and reserve wines. A strong winner, and with a CROWN CAP! (to take on the prosecco market?). The Etoile Rose was treated in a similar fashion (crown cap and all), +29298, $44.75 at Vintages, 63PN/31Ch/6Pinot Meunier, and lots of red fruit. There were two still wines: Chandon Chardonnay 2004, +31765, $24.75 Vintages: French oak used, burgundian, good concentration of baked flavours (coffee, toffee, pear pie). And Chandon Pinot Noir 2005, +921825, $29.75 Vintages, more soft and velvety than expected. The Food: crackers and water The Downside: several writers did not show up – why? The Upside: closer contact with the winemaker The Contact Person: cremmel@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 9. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 16, 2007, 11:30 AM to 2:30 PM The Event: launch of Yellow Jersey wines from Boisset. Guests who spoke from a phony roundtable that was taped: Jean-Charles Boisset, Bob Peter, and some people from packaging. The Venue: The Fifth The Target Audience: wine press, video crew The Availability/Catalogue: four new wines were launched in PET bottle format, bearing the label “Yellow Jersey”, evoking and invoking the winner of the well-known French Tour de France bicycle race. The Quote: “The perfect glass comes from plastic”. The Wines: Yellow Jersey Chardonnay 2006: fruit-forward, slight botrytis, good sipper. Merlot 2005: soft and smooth, red and black berries, sipper. Sauvignon Blanc 2005: grapefruit side of asceticism. Don’t serve too cold. Pinot Noir 2005: black fruit, black cherries, some gaminess. The Food: terrific chopped salad of corn, avocado, cucumber, and greens with the bland too-cold SB (which tasted better after warming up). The Chardonnay worked better. Atlantic salmon with the Chardonnay and the Pinot Noir. The red needed time to open. The toothy Merlot had a sweet edge with the creme brulee and chocolate tart. A platter of unidentified cheeses finished the meal. As so happens at many such events and launches, the food was much better than the wine. The Downside: not only was the launch a long time in getting underway with an overlong pre-set panel discussion, but two writers insisted on interviews BEFORE lunch. Consequently, we had a very late meal. Meanwhile, I was able to pre-taste the wines (around the corner), which I needed to do since I was excessively wired from the copious coffees I had had to consume while waiting for the event to start. The Upside: well, EVERYBODY (or, as the French say, “tout le monde”) had to wait for the meal to start, so I was very happy to see a whole pile of PR and LCBO personnel looking at their watches, casting edgy glances, checking for email throughout the meal, and leaving ASAP after – or even during – the main course. Does Yellow Jersey go with stomach acid? Unfortunately, this series of departures meant that Chef JP had a ton of creme brulee left over. I passed on the coffee. The Contact Person: you could start with Bob Peter at the LCBO or valerie.jolivet@sopexa.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 83. 10. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11 AM to 2 PM The Event: tasting of Tenuta Sant’Antonio (Veneto) conducted by Armando Castagnedi and Aldo Steccanella. They described the winery and the general growing conditions over the past few vintages. Overall, they are specialists in Amarones and Ripassos. The Venue: LCBO Kitchen at Summerhill/Scrivener Square. The Target Audience: wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are in the system or coming. The Quote: “Many of the wines tasted were from 2003, so the results may have been skewed.” The Wines: * Monte Ceriani Soave Superiore 2005, +29843, $17.95: this single vineyard is one of two whites the winery makes. Intense aromas of stone fruit, citric finish. * Monte Garbi Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2003, +29850, $18.95: full, ripe, jammy from that hot vintage. Intense. * La Bandina Valpolicella Superiore 2003, $32.65: new to the market. Oak aged complexity, still Italianate, slightly bitter finish. * Capitel Del Monte Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, $32.65: fabulous, overripe, hot cabby, still slightly bitter, made from a selection of dried grapes (left for 30 days). Best food wine here. * Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione Antonio Castagnedi 2003, +685107, $49.95: chocolate and cherries, hot finish from a hot vintage. * Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 2000, +681627, $69.95: mellow, aged well, full, rich and ripe, single vineyard, 2 years oak. Best overall wine here. * Argile Bianche Reciotto della Valpolicella 2003, $44.90 half-bottle when available: a stickie with some punch and finishing acid. The Food: from Imperio (Yorkville) – home of Ligurian cooking. Not quite Veneto, but at the same latitude. The Downside: the press tasting was lightly attended; some wine writers did not come. The Upside: more food and wine, and conversation, for the rest of us. The Contact Person: talktous@pmwine.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 11. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9 AM – 4 PM The Event: Discover Abruzzo (Italian Trade Commission) The Venue: Izakaya and JK Wine Bar. The Target Audience: surprise, surprise, it is double whammy day – the Italians decided to have a monster tasting on the same day as the New Zealand trade show. The wines are complementary – heavy rustic Italian reds and lighter elegant New Zealand whites. Enough for everybody. Both the trade and the wine press are involved here. The Availability/Catalogue: there was a seminar at Izakaya, but I could not stir my stumps for a 9 AM get together. Sorry, Zoltan. I thought I could take in the trade tasting for an hour, especially since the weather was good and it was a short walk to the design Exchange for the New Zealand show. The Quote: “There is some great food on May 18 (next day) for the culinary aspect of Abruzzo”.—but I had a tasting at the LCBO that day. The Wines: Some of the best wine was from Masciarelli (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Marina Cvetic 2003, 14.5% ABV, very ripe and showed well; and the basic 2004 which was tasty, long length, filling). I also enjoyed the Cantine Dragani Chardonnay Colline Teatine Malia 2006, the Bosco Nestore Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Don Bosco 2002 (13.5%), the Md’A Selva de Canonici 2003 (from Majestic Wine Cellars), the fabulous Terre di Chieti Pecorino Villa Adami 2006, the biodynamic Md’A Organic Pepe Rosso Riserva 2003 (but still needs time), and the Md’A La Cuvee dell’Abate 2005 (Lorac). Many wines were not available in Ontario, and some producers were looking for agents. The Food: most of the food was suitable for white wine (mostly fish and seafood), yet I saw very few tasters with white wine in their glasses. Apart from some chardonnay or oak-treated trebbiano, most of the whites here were fairly neutral. The Downside: I am not quite sure who was invited. I was asked at the last minute. Roberto Martella of Grano never even heard of the trade show happening. The tiny room was crowded with too many stalls and wines, with a huge island in the middle overflowing with empty clean wine glasses and slight food. Just your usual typical Italian crowd crush. The Upside: a chance to taste some wines not in the Ontario marketplace. The Contact Person: Benedetta Marassi 416-598-1566 x 116 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 81 (trade show) 12. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 17, 2007 1:15 PM to 2:30 PM The Event: a seminar on New Zealand Awesome Aromatics, led by wine writer David Lawrason with commentaries from appropriate wine makers. The Venue: Patty Watt Room, Design Exchange. The Target Audience: wine press, LCBO product consultants, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: 70% of New Zealand wines in Canada are bottles of Sauvignon Blanc. This seminar concentrated on Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer varieties. This is of interest to Ontarians since we too are in a cool climate, and we too make these varietals. All of the wines are available in the system. The Quote: “Canada takes 3.8% (29,479 litres) of all NZ Riesling exports, and 1.3% (5,423 litres) of all NZ Pinot Gris exports”. The Wines: During the seminar there was much talk about terroir and how the grapes picked up their aromatics in different parts of the country. * Allen Scott Riesling 2006 Marlborough, $17.95: fresh, citric finish, good enough intensity. * Forrest Estate Riesling 2002 Marlborough, $21: screwcap, mature, petrol nose, has aged very well. My fave riesling. * Pegasus Bay Riesling 2006 Waipara, $29.95: MVC nose, off-dry aromas, palate a bit flabby but finish is ok. * Seifried Estate Pinot Gris 2006 Nelson, $20: brisk, good body and concentration. Best of the PGs here. * Mount Riley Pinot Gris 2006 Marlborough, $18.95: long citric finish, Italianate in style. * Carrick Pinot Gris 2006 Otago, $29.95: apples and pears, lemons, higher acid, best with food. * Spy Valley Gewurztraminer 2006 Marlborough, $22: concentrated body, longer bitterish finish in the length. Best Gewurztraminer here. * Artisan Eight Rows Gewurztraminer 2005 Gisborne, $19.99: frugal nose, light, Ontario-like. * Vinoptima Reserve Ormond Gewurztraminer 2004 Gisborne, $49.50: lots of body with a long finish, but not price-worthy. The Food: sandwiches. The Downside: I was rushed because of the Abruzzo tasting and the subsequent NZ trade show. The Upside: good to make contact with these wines. The Contact Person: nzwine@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 13. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 17, 2007 2:30 PM – 6 PM The Event: New Zealand Wine Fair in Toronto The Venue: Design Exchange, Bay Street The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: 46 wineries were at the show, plus there were some wines from the Vintages operation. The catalogue had prices and availability conditions. The Quote: “Sustainable winegrowing has become a big issue in New Zealand, to ensure greeness”. The Wines: I tasted eclectically, mainly whites. It was very hard to find a red wine that was not pinot noir. Waitiri Creek Pinot Noir Central Otago 2005 ($36.44 licensee) had good depth and consistency, with underbrush nose and smokey bacon tones (Kylix). Alpha Domus Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkes Bay 2004 ($20, Merchant Vintner) was smokey too, lovely finish. C.J. Pask Declaration Cabernet Merlot Malbec Hawkes Bay 2004 ($40, Dionysus) was the best Bordeaux-styled red wine in the show, although their Gimblett Road Cabernet Merlot Malbec Hawkes Bay 2004 ($19.95) was probably better value. The Gimblett Road Syrah Hawkes Bay 2005 ($19.95) showed Northern Rhone characteristics. Cable Bay Chardonnay Waiheke 2005 ($27.95, Kirkwood) was balanced and elegant. Churton Pinot Noir Marlborough 2002 ($29, Merchant Vintner) showed good aging and depth, very burgundian in style. Their Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Marlborough ($21) was deceptively Old World Loire-ish. Fairhall Downs Pinot Gris Marlborough 2006 ($25, MCO) was better than the wines in the earlier seminar. Martinborough Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 ($34, Mark Anthony) had 35% French oak, Burgundian style, great food wine. Matua Valley Judd Estate Chardonnay Gisborne 2004 ($29.95, Fosters) was toasty and affordable. Omaka Springs Estates Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2006 ($19.99, Russ Woodman) was surprisingly intense. Soljans Estate Fusion Sparkling Muscat Gisborne NV ($16.95, Glen-Ward) was seductive, as muscat always is: jes’ peachy! Staete Landt Chardonnay Marlborough 2005 ($34.95, Lifford) showed light toast and good length. Summerhouse Chardonnay Marlborough 2005 ($27, John Hanna) was wooded and toasty. Te Kairanga Estate Martinborough Chardonnay 2005 ($21.95, Small Winemakers) had 10 months barrel aging and ML fermentation for a creaminess. Tohu Chardonnay Marlborough 2006 ($17.15, Russ Woodman) was definitely a food wine. And – for the fourth year – Vintages produced a Stoneyridge Vineyard Larose 2005 (different vintage, of course), which used the five Bordeaux varieties, 13.5%, but a bruising price of $95. The Food: from Daniel and Daniel, cheeses, crackers, breads, etc. The Downside: there has always been a strange lighting at the Design Exchange. The Upside: no chips and salsa this year. The Contact Person: nzwine@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 14. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 22, 2005 2 Pm to 4 PM The Event: a tasting of the Beaujolais wines of P. Ferraud & Fils, led by Yves-Dominique Ferraud and agent Charles Jewett. The Venue: Le Select The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: coming in the fall. Since 1985, the company’s biggest market has been Japan. The Quote: “It’s been a long time since a Beaujolais producer came to town” The Wines: we were to have samples of wines from the 2006 vintage, for all of the crus. But only one case made it through customs in time, so we tasted some other wines too – 7 in all. But only 4 were current reds from Beaujolais. * Macon Fuisse 2006, $16.90, full and fruity, an easy sipper. * Saint-Veran 2005, $17.95, very bright and snappy, a major step up, food needed. * Brouilly “Domaine Rolland” 2006, $ $18.30: heavy Beaujolais colour, dense, fruity, aromatic, modest finish, beefy but easy drinking. * Fleurie Le Reposoir 2006, $20.15: red fruit nose, some yeast, good length of development. * Morgon Domaine Ferraud Les Charmes 2006, $17.65: firm, tannic, good finish, needs time. * Chenas Cuvee Jean-Michel 2005, $20.15: tight but opened with time, tannins, some spices and chocolate. * Moulin a Vent 1978: just for reference, to fill in the gaps. A great wine, aging nicely, breaks on the palate. I need a case for my anniversary. The 2005 vintage will be $20.70. So we were missing Chiroubles, Julienas, C de Brouilly, St Amour, Beaujolais and Beaujolais Superieur, as well as Regnie. The Food: bread and water (better than Paris Hilton got) The Downside: we were missing a few wines. The Upside: the function moved along briskly. The Contact Person: trilogy@on.aibn.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 15. The Time and Date: Monday, May 28, 2007 11 AM to 3 PM The Event: The Tuscany Challenge, on the occasion of the visit to Canada of the President of the Region of Tuscany, Mr. Claudio Martini. Each of the 12 wines chosen top be tasted was a finalist at this year’s “Selezione dei Vini di Toscana” held in Siena. The wines represent both young and old wineries, both large and small wineries, old world and new world styles, and “Vino delle Donne” (recognizing women who are producers or winemakers). The Venue: Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar on Church The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine press, LCBO, agents. The Availability/Catalogue: I am not sure what the challenge to us was all about, since these wines were finalists in their respective categories. So they were not pitted against each other. Italian winemaker Barbara Tamburini and John Szabo spoke to the wines. Franco Ignesti spoke about the 7th Tuscany Challenge. 1064 wines were submitted, and 818 chosen for diverse categories. Ten wineries are repped in Ontario, but the individual wines would probably have to be privately ordered since availability is scant. The Quote: “Because of the quality of both the venue and of the wines, the usual one-third no-shows actually showed up!” And there was now an overflow of some 20 tasters (just about all of them late – that’ll teach them), always a good sign. The Wines: My faves were Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino di Scansano Riserva Poggio Valente 2004 (no rep) with some chocolate tones and tannins; it needed some cellaring time. It was a Donne wine. Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Montesodi 2004 (Schiralli) had very ripe European complexity, long engaging finish in plush style. My overall fave was Avignonesi Cortona Merlot Desiderio 2004 (leathery nose, full plush palate, great finesse, and sipper). Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro 2003 (Charton-Hobbs) showed a very Italianate nose, some aging, and a great Sangiovese cherry finish. Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Selection Prime Donne 2001 (Le Sommelier) was instantly recognizable as a brunello with its MVC, Italianate all the way to finish, and a Donne wine. Many other wines showed a mute nose and some rusticity – they simply needed time to open up. But by then, the tasting was over. A shame... The Food: even with all the extra people there were mounds of food. Many tasters could not afford the time to stay around, even though a few of them were actively checking their mobile emails throughout the tasting. Pulled pork poutine with Ontario sheep’s milk cheddar started us off, although there was not enough smoke in the pulled pork. The smoke was reserved for the Lake Trout. There was also a mixed grill of shortribs, lamb, and duck sausages, oxtail ragout, duck confit, Ontario spring veggie ragout (fiddleheads, ramps, mushrooms), and artisanal cheeses followed by rhubarb trifle. Wines were sampled against the food. The Downside: there really was no room to sample both the food and the wines very conveniently. You had to make many, many criss-crosses and sit down. The Upside: great food and great wines. The Contact Person: Benedetta Marassi, Italian Trade Commission, 416- 598-1566, ext. 116. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR APRIL 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Monday, April 2, 2007 11:30 AM to 2 PM The Event: the 17th Annual Wines of Germany Tasting rolled into town today. It opened with a trade tasting seminar. The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall. The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine media, LCBO personnel. The Availability/Catalogue: the nine wines tasted had various availability; all were in the show itself. The Quote: “Once again the emphasis is on Riesling”. The Wines: we tasted three wines from three producers from three regions. First up was Ernest Loosen, the owner of Weingut Dr. Loosen (Mosel). He presented 2005 Dr. L Riesling (a Mosel regional blend from non-estate wines, good MVC with a lemony finish), 2002 J.L. Wolf Riesling (Pfalz, but another regional wine with a deep Riesling nose, intense body, and nicely aged), and 2005 Riesling Spatlese Urziger Wurzgarten Mosel (spicy complexity, off-dry in balance, lemons and tropicality). Andrea Besslich, the Export Director for Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen (Rheingau) gave us 2005 Riesling Auslese Erbacher Schlossberg (a bit too sweet for me), 2002 Riesling First Growth Erbacher Schlossberg (my fave: crisp well balanced, fruity, lemony complexity on the finish), 1993 Riesling Auslese Erbacher Schlossberg (my second fave: deliciously well-aged, some limes, good finish, great with my food at lunch). Ulrike Bahm from Weingut Heitlinger (Baden) presented some interesting wines: 2006 Heitlinger Open Air Rose (light but fresh), 2003 Heitlinger Pinot Noir Master Etage Dry (wood tones, light body, good finish, not especially pinot noirish), and 2004 Heitlinger Lemberger Master Etage Dry (fruity, North America appeal, some gaminess). The Food: a hot luncheon was served, with breads and cheeses. Hot plates included wild mushroom soup, pork loin, salmon, vegetable pad thai, rice. All from Daniel et Daniel. The Downside: one of my tasting glasses had caked red lipstick on it. The Upside: a good chance to do a Q and A with the panel, and to slowly savour the wines outside of the tumult of a trade tasting. The Contact Person: rfiorelli@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 2. The Time and Date: Monday, April 2, 2007 2 PM to 5 PM The Event: the 17th Annual Wines of Germany Tasting: trade show. The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall. The Target Audience: restaurateurs, sommeliers, wine media, LCBO personnel, wine buyers, etc. The Availability/Catalogue: wines are all over the map: General listing, Vintages, Consignment, Private order, etc. The catalogue had all the basic required data for the supplier and agent and wine names, but no prices or availability. The Quote: “We are celebrating the 50th anniversary of the EU”. The Wines: I decided to concentrate on gewurztraminers and other wines which struck my fancy. Surprisingly, there were very few reds, rose, and sparklers. From the Riesling, I enjoyed the 2003 Riesling Auslese Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen ($24.95 in May Vintages, repped by Churchill) with its firm, definitive edges. The 2005 Deinhard Beerenauslese (Mark Anthony) was over-the-top. The 2005 Riesling Auslese Nackenheim Rothenberg ($49.95 Vintages in November) also had good definition, body, and a long finish. The 2005 Schloss Johanisberger Riesling Grunlack Spatlese (Signature Wines: dry, good body and finish). The Wegeler Riesling Brut Sekt ($21.95 p.o., Signature Wines: fresh bubbly). The J. Wegeler Erben Riesling Spatlese 2002 Bernkasteler Doctor ($59, a CC Internet/Web Offer www.vintages.com: one of my faves in the show, very tropical mangoish, aging well). The 2005 Blue Nun Riesling Eiswein ($40, Kirkwood: a bit too young, but well worth acquiring for the future). The Rheingau’s Schloss Schoenborn once again seemed to have the best all round selection, ranging from their basic 2005 Riesling Dry ($17.95) up through the affordable 1989 Riesling Auslese Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg ($39.95: check with HHD Imports for availability). Perhaps the best of the Schoenborns was the dryish 1997 Riesling Spatlese Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg ($23.95 September Vintages: one to watch out for in the fall). From the Gewurztraminers, there was the stunning 2005 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Ungsteiner Nussriegel ($22 private order from Conoval: good fruit, lovely bitterness in the finish), the 2006 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Feinherb Bechtheimer ($19.50, Connoisseur Wines: good fruit set, low acid finish), the 2005 Franz Reh Gewurztraminer Pfalz ($11.65 GL, good MVC at this price level), the 2006 Gewurztraminer Halbtrocken Rappenhof ($16 p.o., Churchill: good bitterish intensity), the 2005 Baden Gewurztraminer (GL: good value wine), the 2005 Valckenberg Gewurztraminer (#12.95 p.o., Lacey International: good intensity for the price). The Food: wild mushroom soup, pork loin and salmon plus grains, from Daniel and Daniel. The Downside: some of the agents/pourers did not seem to know prices, availability, dates, etc. But this is common at all trade shows. Someday it will stop...when? The Upside: there was enough room to cut in and out from the trade tables, which was a boon. The Contact Person: rfiorelli@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 3. The Time and Date: Monday, April 2, 2007 3 PM to 7 PM The Event: the fifth annual portfolio tasting for Churchill Cellars. The Venue: CBC Building – Barbara Frum Atrium. The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers, LCBO personnel, private clients. 650 people were expected, hopefully spread out over the day. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available through the LCBO (GL or Vintages) except for one wine. We had a double-sided sheet with the wines listed and the prices. Most of the wines come from the Constellation family, although no wines from Vincor were shown. Sue-Ann Staff from Ontario’s VQA 20 Bees was pouring – including the killer Late Harvest Vidal ($18.95). The Quote: “The best wine in the show, the Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Shiraz 2004, was not available” The Wines: I began tasting wines I had not had for awhile, such as the Segura Viudas Brut Reserva 2003 ($13.95: good hot vintage year gave up good sparkling) and Robertson Winery Shiraz 2005 ($11.95). My faves were the Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($37.95), his Napa Fume Blanc 2005 ($24.95), his Chardonnay Private Selection 2005 ($17.95: plenty of wood and evolution), the Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva Red 2001 ($15.95: bargain price), the Chivite Gran Feudo Chardonnay 2005 ($11.40: light body but useful), the Simi Merlot 2003 ($30.95), the Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel 2004 ($28.95), Hardy’s Bankside Shiraz 2005 ($16.95), d’Arenberg The Football Shiraz ($20.95: off-dry, soft), d’Arenberg High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon ($20.95), d’Arenberg The Olive Grove Chardonnay ($15.95). The Food: cold cut buns from Whitehouse, cheeses, breads, cookies. The Downside: there were very few wines from Europe (one Zonin, some French, Spanish, and German) The Upside: surprisingly, it was not too crowded from 3 to 5 PM -- most people were expected after work. The Contact Person: mark@churchillcellars.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 10, 2007, 11:30 AM to 4:30 PM The Event: Portfolio Tasting of Mani Agency. The Venue: home of Philip Wharton The Target Audience: sommeliers, wine writers, private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: private orders, consignment The Quote: “Check out that foie gras!!! Brilliant with the Brachetto d’Acqui...” (red fruity sparkler, off-dry), $17.95 licensee). The Wines: Most of the portfolio was Italian, but the firm is slowly acquiring Australian, French, and Spanish wines. My faves from Calabria were the flinty Greco Lamezia Bianco 2006 ($19.75 licensee) and the Arvino Calabria Rosso 2005 (same price). Baglio Hopps (Sicily) did a rich, apricot-like Grillo 2004 ($29.50 licensee). The North American appeal of the Baglio delle Cicale Merlot 2002 ($34.95 licensee) came from its over-the-top smooth blackberry component. The winery’s Uzeda 2002 was quite similar; it’s a blend of nero d’avola and cabernet sauvignon, at $22.95 (twelve bucks less). Chateau d’Angles La Clape (Languedoc) makes a Terroir de la Clape Red 2003 ($19.95) with a large syrah component, black fruits and anise notes, long finish, from that hot vintage year. Sanguine Estate Shiraz 2004 from Heathcote Victoria ($39.50) was very hefty, very peppery, classic aromas. The best wine was Bodegas Imperiales from the Ribero del Duero; its Finca Helena 2001 was full of underbrush, anise, with some gamey nose. Lots of extract, even for $95! The Food: light lunch and canapes prepared by Derek Kennedy, former Executive Chef at La Bodega. The Downside: it was rainy and people began to arrive in bunches The Upside: very secure surroundings, leisurely pace. The Contact Person: philip.wharton@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 4. The Time and Date: Monday, April 16, 2007 11:30AM to 2:30 PM. The Event: California Wine Fair trade luncheon in the Concert Hall. The Venue: Fairmont Royal York The Target Audience: wine trade The Quote: “There are some great sparkling wines here” The Wines: We had a reception, with four sparkling wines from Domaine Chandon, Kenwood, Gloria Ferrer, and Domaine Carneros 2003(Taittinger). The food was executed with the California Walnut Commission; it was all walnut-based with shrimp, figs, cheese puffs. The Food: Prepared by David Garcelon, Executive Chef of the Fairmont Royal York. I was at a Churchill Cellars table, and sampled Estancia Pinot Grigio Central Coast, $23 midsummer, higher acid, very Italianate (and very good with the trio of Atlantic salmon – gravlax, smoked, tartare). Franciscan Estates Chardonnay Napa 2005, $25, 13.5% ABV, good wood, BF and BA, segued to the sliced Provimi veal with pancetta and yam hash. By mistake, someone at California HQ had sent Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 1998 Old Vines ($125 US) instead of the regular 1998 ($63.95 Vintages). I did not complain, nor said that we should send it back! It had aged very well, of course, being bottled in 2002. The meal was completed by a selection of Canadian cheeses, including the awesome Thunder Oak Gouda from Thunder Bay and Blue Ermite from Quebec. Great food and great wines. The Downside: speeches were okay, but there were a lot of them, and they held up the meal. In previous years, I seem to remember that speeches came between courses. The Upside: Jerry Comfort from Beringer spoke on “Food and Wine Relationships”. Food always affects the taste of wine, and he also pointed out that salt blocks bitterness on the palate. The Contact Person: calwine@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 5. The Time and Date: Monday, April 16, 2007, 2:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: California Wine Fair, 27th annual edition. The Venue: Fairmont Royal York The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: good catalogue, with all the names and addresses in place, agents, etc. Two drawbacks, as per normal: lack of prices/availability notes, and last minute additions/withdrawals of wines. The Quote: “There are way too many wines here...It’s almost impossible to taste the ones you want to taste”. The Wines: Too many wines to taste. I at least was privileged to taste almost one-quarter of the wines in advance at a media pre-tasting (see last month’s notes) in a more relaxed, sit down situation. And that still was not enough for me since I ran out of time here today. I decided at the last moment to concentrate on California chardonnays. But among other whites, I enjoyed Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Vintages +340208, $16.15) for its crispness of citric tones and price and Calera Mt. Harlan Viognier 2005 (Vintages +966875, Dec. 07: $42.75). Martin & Weyrich Moscato Allegro 2005 (7% ABV, $15) was not to be sneezed at, and worked with the food very well. Of the chardonnays, some of the better ones included DFV Wines Irony Chardonnay 2004 Napa Valley (+27409, $19.95, all cream and tropicality), Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay (+275552, $24.85, nice balance between cream, citrus, mineral and oak flavours), Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay (+348342, $27.95, depth to the tropicality), Geyser Peak Chardonnay Alexander Valley (extremely delicate), Arrowood Chardonnay Reserve Sonoma 2004 [wrongly listed in the book] (Classics, $68), William Hill Chardonnay Napa Valley 2005 ($29.95 Maxxium, light balance), Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River 2005 ($38.95 Maxxium, very consistent length and development), DeLoach Chardonnay 2005, Freemark Abbey Chardonnay 2004 ($26), Ironstone Reserve Chardonnay 2004 (bright, body, Lifford), La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2005 (good but lighter than in previous years), Oakville Ranch Chardonnay Napa 2005 (lots of oak), St. Francis Chardonnay Sonoma County 2005 (lots of wood tones, good fruit set and finish), Testarossa Brosseau Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 ($50, delicious delivery of fine chardonnay fruit and balance, B & W wines). It should be noted that California chardonnays are no longer big lumbering giants. Among the reds I did try, I sought out and enjoyed Rodney Strong Alden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (+901032, $42.95 consignment from Mark Antony, full bodied cedar, long finish) and its Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon (+226944, $19.95, a bargain for the elegance of a straight ahead cabby from California), Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (+343467 Vintages, $21.95, a delicious fruity step up from the Rodney Strong), Beringer Knights Valley Alluvium Red (+393447 Vintages, $49.95), Nichols Merlot Vinas del Sol Vineyard 1999 (dynamite character, very good, best red of the afternoon: $37.95) and his Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 from the same vineyard ($49.88, from Le Sommelier). The Food: cheese, breads, fruits. The Downside: too many people – the place was packed by 3 PM, and, sad to say, most people were tasting, eating and hobnobbing in a far too social way. I saw ONE club manager and ALL the wine writers taking notes; I did not see any other person writing something down. Most people just shuffled from table to table with far too much chatter and not enough serious tasting -- one of their hands had food, another had wine: no book, no pen in evidence. Hey, guys, this was NOT a consumer tasting: you are here to EDUCATE yourself and PURCHASE wines. There seems to be a rule of thumb here – the more wines on show, the more non-wine people attend. Is there any way to cut back on numbers and/or wines???? By 5 PM it was very noisy. You should know that I wear a hearing aid, and I had turned it off by 3PM...So it was REALLY noisy at 5 PM! Did I say too many people? Maybe I meant too many non-relevant people. The Upside: some fine red wines in evidence. The Contact Person: calwine@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 80. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 12, 2007 2PM to 6 PM The Event: Wines of France: press and trade wine tasting of a group of 30 producers looking for representation in North America. Only about 10% of them had reps in Ontario. The Venue: The Carlu (Round Room) The Target Audience: agents, wine press (to generate buzz) The Availability/Catalogue: a big catalogue, four or more wines from each producer, maybe 160 wines in all, from most regions in France, although the Loire Valley was very heavily represented. The Quote: “Lots of Loire wines, but only a few are exciting”. The Wines: I decided to taste the wines of the Loire first, followed by the wines already repped here. Prices were not very forthcoming: this seems to be a characteristic of the French wine producer, for this is the fifth such show that producers were very shy in revealing prices. Why? I simply asked for ex-cellar prices, FOB, etc. in Euros, so I could get a fix after tasting the sample. Most times I get a Gallic shrug, or a fumble for notes that are not there, etc. There have been three shows at the former Ontario Club lodgings and two at the Carlu. Other European trade shows (Italian, German, Austrian, Portuguese) give out this information willingly. So I have no prices for you, except what an agent might have dug up. Some of the best wines at the show were Domaine des Banquettes Cotes du Rhone Cecile des Vignes Cuvees Viognier Futs de Chene 2005, continuing a French trend of aging viognier in oak; Fronsac Chateau Clos du Roy Cuvee Arthur 2003; Premieres Cotes de Blaye Chateau Du Haut Guerin 2004 (very good oak ageing, 3 Euros ex-cellar: this extraction of a price took considerable effort on my part); Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Chateau Jean Voisin 2003 (85% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, light wooded toast, good finish); Cremant de Bordeaux Ballarin Rose (terrific sparkler, all cabernet sauvignon, two days saignee, 5 Euros ex-cellars); Chateau Saint Roch Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes Le Petit Blanc 2005 (dry muscat, refreshing, 2.5 Euros ex-cellars); Touraine Sauvignon Blanc Domaine Joel Delaunay 2006 ($16, Carriage House, very fresh and longer finish); Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France Sauvignon Blanc Tydy Thierry Delaunay 2006 ($11, Carriage House, similar but less expensive, house wine?); Fronton Chateau Montauriol Mons Aureolus 2004 (13.5%, aromatic, good density, North American appeal, hot finish, repped by Vinifera); Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Le Soleil Nantais 2005 (good sur lie complexity, Philippe Dandurand); Malbec Cahors International Eco-Frog 2005 (malbec merlot blend, making organic wines since 1972, quite substantial but smoothed out by the merlot); Domaine des Quarres Anjou Blanc Les Graviers 2005 (13.8% ABV, good body for chenin blanc, $21 Licensee through Ex-Cellars), and its Anjou Blanc Les Pierres Noires 2005 was slightly more minerally for a dollar more. The Domaine des Quarres Coteaux du Layon Faye La Magdelaine Prestige 2003 (12% ABV, $38 licensee for half-litre bottle, Ex-Cellars) showed intense fruit and a long refreshing finish. The Food: great pate, cheeses, escargot, veggies, breads. The Downside: lack of prices, for the most part. The Upside: most of us wine writers were asked by various agents what we thought of specific wines. The agents were doing their job in gathering opinions. But until we get some prices, then we cannot factor in a value component. I tasted a Rasteau that was dynamite, but an agent said it would be $80. That’s a tough sell. The Contact Person: anne.popoff@sopexa.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 82. 7. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 19, 2007, 11 AM to 4:30 PM The Event: Road Shows: the wines of Greece. The Venue: Park Hyatt The Target Audience: wine press and wine trade. The Availability/Catalogue: there was a huge glossy catalogue that was awkward at the best of times and more awkward with food and/or glass in hand. But then, like many trade shows, very few people were taking notes, so who cares? The Quote: “Hey, there’s a huge lineup in the corner where the best food, wine and cheeses were. This bottleneck in the heat makes it difficult to taste properly.” To this bottleneck cigarette smoke was later added. The Wines: John Szabo (for technical description) and Sofia Perpero (colour commentator) presented a seminar on Greek wines, featuring the better known indigenous varieties. Several winemakers were there to comment. There was a huge turnout for the seminar, which gave me time to taste and write some notes on the wines, avoiding most of the walkaround tasting that followed. Ten wines were tasted. We had samples of roditis, athiri, moschofilero, and assyrtiko white varieties from different regions. I particularly liked the Orenos Helios White 2006 (a blend of moschofilero and roditis), 11.5% ABV, aromatic nose, slightly yeasty, good balance, good opening fruit on the palate, long citric finish for food (from Rubaiyat). Agiorgitiko and xinomavro were the red wine grapes. From the former, I liked the Palivou Estate Terra Leone Ammos 2004 (good wood tones on nose which carries through to mid- palate, upfront fruit, 13.2% ABV, 1 year French oak, 30% new oak, from Ne Plus Ultra). From the xinomavro grape, I liked the Kir Yianni Ramnista 2003 (full-bodied, delicious fruit in balance, from Kolonaki). During the walk-around I enjoyed sampling Emery Efreni 2006 (dessert wine, muscat varieties, sparkling half-litre, slightly bitter finish, about $17 from Kolonaki), Gaia Estate 2004 (agiorgitiko, depth and integrity but $45 from Kolonaki), Domaine Gerovassiliou Syrah 2004 (soft tones, $36, Celebrated Cellars), the ever present Greek Wine Cellars Mavrodaphne dessert wine (Dionysus), Chateau Nico Lazaridi Red 2004 (bordeaux varieties, youthful bordeaux style, full and tannic still, $24.95 retail, Vergina), Mikros Vorias Red 2006 (meant for the international market with its “cab merlot” blend, $14.95 consignment, Dionysus), Ktima Pavlidis Thema Red 2004 (“cab merlot” plus local limnio, interesting palate, aromatic nose, Kolonaki), Chateau Porto Carras 2001 (same “cab merlot” and limnio varieties, different proportions, 13% ABV, very good and ready now, some substance in the finish, $23.50, Vergina), Sigalas Vinsanto 2003 (incredibly sweet dessert wine, the original “vin santo”, Kolonaki), Domaine Spiropoulos Porfyros 2004 (very rounded taste from “cab merlot” and agiorgitiko, internationally styled, $24, Rubaiyat). The Food: cheeses, wild mushroom strudel, veal stew, lemon halibut, rice dishes – good buffet. Desserts were North American, not Greek. The Downside: it was very stuffy because the weather had suddenly turned warmer. Doors to the outside patio were opened, but people took advantage of this and went outside to smoke. The air conditioning was turned on, and the smoke was pulled back in. An entire section of the room smelled smoky, taking away the joy of the aromatics. The Upside: a chance to see the real progress of Greek wines. The Contact Person: info@allaboutgreekwine.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 8. The Time and Date: Wednesday, April 25, 2007, 12 noon to 4 PM (although the program said 12 AM to 4 PM – quite a long show!!) The Event: Austrian Annual Wine Fair The Venue: The Flow, Yorkville Street The Target Audience: wine trade The Availability/Catalogue: all the information possible, except for last minute changes and prices. CSPCs where available. Names and addresses of wineries and importers, plus websites. A clear cut table arrangement. The Quote: “A really smooth show: it just flows at Flow” The Wines: I concentrated on just a few importers because I’ve been impressed with their offerings in the past. Most of the prices here are for private orders. One of the highlights of the show (and my fave white wine) was the Weingut Angerer Kurt Unfiltered Gruner Veltliner 2005 (14.5% ABV, $42.50, B & W Wines) which showed mounds of flavours and development. It was well-worth the money, especially since there were many other useful GVs at $30 but with not nearly as many concentrated flavours. A slightly less-expensive GV was Kurt’s Loam 2006, an off-dry beauty at $26.95 (B & W). From H.H.D. Imports (which gets the Grand Jury Prize for the most effective sheets of catalogues, with all prices, dates, availability, contact person, etc.) there was Weingut Brundlemayer Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben 2002, another intensely flavoured GV. Their Riesling Zoblinger Heiligenstein 2002 showed its terroir in its incredible nose. Lamprecht was manning his usual 300 wines (just kidding: only 17 were listed in the catalogue), from which I enjoyed the very sociable Leopold Riesling Gerichsthal 2006 ($15.50), the complicated but dry Unger Muskat Ottonel 2005, the Polsterer GV Jakob 2005 (14% alcohol) with its sweet body, the Salomon Undhof Sal’mon Groovey GV 2006, $12.95, a good Vintages offering, the excellent Wieden GV 2004 in Vintages at $26, the Stift Klosterneuberg Escerial 2004 (a field harvest blend at $32), and the firm’s two St.Laurent reds: its Ausstich 2004, 13.5% ABV for fruit ($25) and its Barrique 2004, 13.5% ABV for roundness and oaking ($44). The Merchant Vintner showed two wineries – Aichinger (GV Urgestein 2006, $26, good body and aromatics; Sauvignon Blanc Renner 2006, $33, off-dry, long length) and Petra Unger (GV Gottschelle Reserve 2006, $30, dense but danceable on the palate for a white; Riesling Gaisberg Stein 2006, $36, very aromatic textures). For a sparkler, PMA Canada was showing a frothy and refreshing Schlumberger Rose 2006, private order for $16.95, and a bargain for an off-dry sparkling rose. Portfolio showed Allram, one of the leading wines at last year’s show. They make a full range of upscale wines, such as the Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein 2005 ($35), the very food oriented GV Gaisberg 2005 ($22), and a St. Laurent Reserve Gaisberg 2003 (bright but heavy). Leth GV Brunnthal 2006 ($18) was off-dry, from Vergina. Zahel Antares Grand Reserve 2004 was probably the most expensive wine at the show ($63, Small Winemakers Collection), but Zahel Muscat at $18 was notable too. Wineworld presented Machherndl Riesling Smaragd 2005, a taut wine at $28.45, and Nittnaus Muskat Ottonel 2006, fresh, off-dry, good for sipping. The Food: pre-cut cheeses, biscuits, dried fruit and nuts. The Downside: not enough time for me. When I taste many versions of the same varietal (gruner veltliner, riesling, etc.), I need more time for comparisons. The Upside: well-managed and assembled group of wines, good respectful audience. Many were taking notes. The Contact Person: toronto@austriantrade.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 9. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 26, 2007 2:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: Loire Valley wine tasting of CGS Selections (with Christophe Garnier, a wine broker distributor since 1987), now repped in Ontario by Nuray Ali of Ex-Cellars Wine Services. The Venue: Prego della Piazza. The Target Audience: wine media, private customers, sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: We had nine wines; they were all available by private order. The Quote: “M. Garnier looks after the group’s sales strategy in France, with high quality hotels and restaurants, and specialized merchants”. The Wines: There were 10 wines, which included one that Garnier makes himself but does not export. He let us taste it for style, Domaine de la Croule 2004 Touraine (blend of cot and cabernet franc), decent value at $18 – the price that would be charged if he exported it. Other wines to note (all in the mid-twenties in price) included a Vouvray Method Traditionnnelle NV Domaine du Viking ($26, good off-dry consistency, firm mousse, aperitif); Menetou Salon Blanc 2006 Domaine Gilbert ($27, firm and full body, citric finish); Sancerre Blanc 2006 Cherrier ($25, appetite-provoking); Pouilly Fume 2006 Tabordet ($26, better body for one dollar more, long finish, polished but young); and the Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes 2003 Chasle ($25, best wine of the event, full, ripe, developing still, showing some age from the older 40-year old vines, cabernet franc only, excellent price). The Food: cheeses, salami, prosciutto, breads. The Downside: it rained very heavily, which may have kept many people away. Most of us were soaked. The Upside: great chance to see a wide-range of wines from the Loire but by different exacting producers (“Les Copains d’abord”). The Contact Person: nuray@ex-cellars.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 10. The Time and Date: Monday, April 30, 2007 noon to 2 PM The Event: New Zealand Wine Pre-release Tasting and Lunch The Venue: George Restaurant The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: All the wines will be in the system by May 26, the Vintages release date for most of them. Some are here already as Vintages Essentials (Oyster Bay, Cooper’s Creek) or repeat orders (Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc). Others were designated “InStore Discoveries”. The Quote: “Quite frankly, the ISDs blew the other wines out of the water. But then, they also cost more.” The Wines: There were almost 30 wines to taste. I found it difficult to play mix and match, and basically opted for tasting. The ISDs comprised Chardonnay Waiheke Island 2005 from Cable Bay (+0695163, $28.95, very woody and full bodied), Villa Maria Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2005 (+27227, $29.25, balanced fruit and wood), Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2004 (+31294, $50.95) and Carrick Wines Pinot Noir 2003 (+919837, $51.95) were neck and neck, although the margin must go to Carrick because the wine is a year older with thus more aging. I took seconds on the Carrick and on the Cable Bay, to have with another course. Of the wines coming out at Vintages on May 26, I preferred the Spy Valley Gewurztraminer 2006 (+32870, $20.95) for its overwhelming fruit. The Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (+686675, $17.95) was no slouch either. The Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006 was off-dry in palate (+963124, $20.95). The Food: wines were paired with food, and we tried a variety of wines with a variety of food, mixing and matching. There was an amuse bouche with the off-dry in mouthfeel Mount Riley Savee Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (asparagus dominates, $22.95). With the sauvignon blancs, we tried red romaine bundle and avocado plus crab; this food progressed through the riesling, pinot gris, and gewurztraminer too. The chardonnays and pinot noirs had lemon thyme pasta sheets with a short rib ragout and brandied raisins. The warmer climate reds had a grilled bison satay with soft polenta and confit veg. Absolutely fabulous food from Chef Lorenzo Loseto. The Downside: different foods and different wines can be fatiguing on the palate. There are times when I wish we had a barf bucket, like a spit bucket but for food. Swallowing is the polite thing to do, but it slows down the taste buds. The Upside: Great exposure to a range of upscale NZ wines at one sitting, leisurely pace. The Contact Person: rketchin@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 11. The Time and Date: Monday, April 30, 2007 11 AM to 4 PM The Event: Somewhereness: old soils and new wines. The Venue: MaRS Centre, College Street The Target Audience: this was a trade show component to the consumer show. About 200 consumers turned out in the evening. The wine trade was in the afternoon. It was a great showcase for leading Ontario VQA wines. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available from the wineries concerned – Flat Rock Cellars, Malivoire, Norman Hardie, Stratus Vineyards, Tawse Winery. The event was designed to showcase the depth and complexity of Ontario vineyards, soils and wines. Terroir. The Quote: “Awesome collection of wines in one place”. The Wines: I did not try everything, but I did get around to each table. From Flat Rock Cellars, I admired the depth of the Rusty Shed Chardonnay (13.5%, $20.17 licensee) and the consistency of the Gravity Pinot Noir 2005 (13%, $28.26). Malivoire’s Pinot Gris 2006 ($14.55) was a bargain for its multitude of flavours. Their Moira Chardonnay 2004 ($29.11) showed good balance for an Ontario chardonnay. Norman Hardie (from PEC) had a Cabernet Franc 2005 ($19.40) that showed rather well, and was very convincing. Stratus had the widest range since it was also showing its vintaged restaurant series to the trade, the Wildass Riesling, Red, White (all $15.36) and Rose (less, at $13.74). The Stratus White and Red (both 2004 and both $35.57) were both fruity, the red offering black fruit while the white offered stone fruit. Tawse Winery weighed in with a mighty Beamsville Bench Chardonnay 2004 ($33.95, 13.9% ABV) which was the show’s highlight to me. They too use the gravity flow technique. Their mainstay for the trade is the Echo’s White ($17.79, 13.9% ABV) which is all chardonnay, good balance and fruit, and the Echo’s Red 2005 ($20.20) which was very Loire-like in its 70% cabernet franc and 30% merlot blend. With the mix of Ontario cheese and other produce, this was an informative show... The Food: some great porcetta sandwiches, roast beef, and cheeses (Piacare from Monfort), Thunder Oak Old Gouda, French Line (raw sheep), and Jensen’s 3 Year Cheddar (non-pasteurized cow). The Downside: the event had too much space for the wine trade. The Upside: everything was at a leisurely pace, and it was great to be able taste stunning Ontario wines in one room. The Contact Person: Tonia Wilson (tonia@savourflavour.com) The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MARCH 2007 ===================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday March 7, 2007, 3PM to 5 PM The Event: Alain Brumont tasting of his Madiran wines. The Venue: Prego The Target Audience: wine media, Tastevin clients. The Availability/Catalogue: These are very rich and commanding wines from Madiran, Gascony and Pacherenc. Brumont has picked the best terroirs, reduced his yields, stresses the vines, and uses new oak. He produces some 1.6 million bottles a year, a full range of white, red, rose, and sweeties. The wines are available through private order. The Quote: The Wines: sadly, one wine (Montus 2003) was slightly corked. * Chateau Boucasse 2003, $20: from 10 – 50 year old vines, 80% tannat and 20% cabernet. A warm weather vintage wine, food-type finish, good value. 14% ABV. * Les Menhirs 2003, $28: a newly developed wine, half tannat, half merlot) , a Côte de Gascogne wine, balanced, with appeal for the North American palate from the hot 2003 vintage, full-bodied, black fruit and 70% chocolate dark tones. 15% ABV. * Bouscasse Vieille Vignes 2002, $40: all tannat from old vines, not ready, tough stuff with tannic finish. 14.5% ABV. * Montus Prestige 2002, $70: dense colour, lively fruit, underbrush nose and palate, new oak showing well. Firm finish. My fave of the tasting. 15% ABV. * La Tyre 2001 Montus Vineyard Old Vines, $120: closed and tight with earthiness, underbrush with bright. floral notes. Needs cellaring for a decade or more. First produced in 2000, with extended four years ageing in barrel. 15.5% ABV. The Food: a nice platter of salamis, prosciutto, and cheese, along with crusty breads. The Downside: fewer writers came than I had expected. The Upside: more time to chat with Adrian Williamson and Nuray Ali The Contact Person: tastevin@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Thursday March 8, 2007, 3PM to 5 PM The Event: San Felice wines with the winemaker Leonardo Bellacini. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve’s incognito location. The Target Audience: Hanna wine collectors, LCBO, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines were available through Vintages or private orders. The Quote: “Hey, I should buy a case of each of these wines” (said by the collector across from me). The Wines: we tasted 10 wines, being led by Leonardo Bellacini. * Poggio Rosso (single vineyard), 1997, 1999 and 2001. The 1997 showed cedar, the usual cherry aromas, and even some minerals. A bit closed and tight, but with a long rich finish. The 1999 was lighter in colour but very elegant and balanced, showing some rusticity in its aging.. The 2001 was dense and chunky, concentrated, power plums in flavour with a taut tannic finish. * Vigorello (one of the first Super Tuscans) 1997, 1999, and 2001. The 1997 was sangiovese with 40% cabernet sauvignon, showing a mature rim and some underbrush, with sourish cherry elegance and acid balance, taut structure. The 1999 had sea minerals, a bit lean, more of a sour cherry acid finish. The 2001 (with some merlot added) showed a deep floral nose, more minerals, sweet cherries, lots of extract, still developing.. * Pugnitello 1997, 2000, 2001, 2003: an ancient thick-skinned Tuscan variety that was discovered in a vineyard in Maremma and brought to the vitiarium at San Felice to be propagated. The name translates as "little fist" – the shape of its bunches. It is apparently only one of 278 distinct grape varieties (161 of which are red) that have been identified within Tuscany. The 1997 (my fave of the tasting, very Italianate) had a floral cherry and red berry nose, balanced, medium weight with length to its finish. The 2000 had a Chablis-like nose, with minerals and flints, black fruit and finished with sweet tannins. The 2001 was a bit austere, with black fruit nose and softness on the mid- palate, finishing with a young feel. The 2003 was almost overoaked, with a butteriness, hot vintage year, and smokey, long length. The Food: prosciutto and meats, cheeses, and breads. The Downside: there was a crowd of people which was good for the agent and principal. The Upside: some really great wines which shone better with the food. The Contact Person: andrewhanna@winetrader.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 3. The Time and Date: Monday March 12, 2007, 6PM – 9 PM The Event: 3rd [sic] Annual New Kids on the Block Tasting The Venue: Ontario Club The Target Audience: Ontario Wine Society members, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: This is a variety of wines from new or small wineries in Ontario. All the wines are available directly from the wineries, except for 20 Bees, which has no retail outlet yet. Their wines are at the LCBO, on General List. The Quote: “Although hyped as the third annual New Kids, it is actually the fourth such event: the first was in 2001, followed by 2004 and 2005.” The Wines: Zoltan Szabo, who co-runs the Wine Council of Ontario’s Licensee Training Program, led us through the 11 wines which were presented blind. It was relatively easy to identify the grape varieties by nose alone, although the organic Frogpond Farm wines seemed to have atypical but still compelling aromas. Their wines are in 500 mL bottles, which is perfect for the solo diner or occasional drinking pair. It also keeps the pricepoint down. Some of the reception wines were phenomenal. I enjoyed the range from Fielding (a Riesling Reserve 2005, a Riesling Semi-Dry 2005, and a Gewurztraminer 2005; the latter very Alsatian). The Trompour Riesling 2005 showed nice acidic zest. The Flat Rock Riesling 2005 showed nice lime sherbet complexity. On to the sitdown tasting: * Frogpond Farm Riesling 2004, $12 for half-litre: some teariness, lime and apples, off-dry nose, fruity on the palate, good ripe fruit on the finish. * Calamus Estate Riesling 2005, $14: citrus tones, off-dry on mid- palate, some minerality, good crisp finish, dryish for food. * 20 Bees Riesling 2005, $12.95: low nose took time to open up, soft and floral wine drinking well now, good for parties as a sipper. * Rosehall Run Chardonnay 2004, $18.95: from Prince Edward County grapes with a dose of new Hungarian oak on the nose and the mid-palate, but a long finish for foodies. * Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2005, $25: good brisk clean and lean apples and lemons, excellent body, some slight oak showing. * Caroline Cellars Cabernet Franc 2005, $13: MVC franc character, leafy, tart but mouthfilling, fruit appears later, needs a bit more time. * Rosehall Run Cabernet Franc 2005, $29.95: some age showing on the nose, cassis and off-dry fruity flavours, floral finish, food friendly. * 20 Bees Baco Noir 2005, $12.95: off-dry black fruit aromas and pepper tones on palate, fruity, low tannins, sip or food. * Caroline Cellars Baco Noir 2005, $10: partially floral and herbal nose, black fruit showing but a tarter finish than 20 Bees. * Frogpond Farm Cabernet Merlot 2002, $16 for half-litre: some age showing on the nose, well-integrated flavours of red fruit (raspberry) and acid and oak, longer finish. My fave of the evening. * 20 Bees Late Harvest Vidal 2005, $18.95: yummy, some marmalade, thick, unctuous. Not as cloying as icewine can be. The Food: club grub for wine, which, of course, is better than pub grub for beer. The Downside: I felt that there were too many wines being tasted (11 of them), especially since there were an equal number of wines for sampling at the reception. The Upside: Zoltan is a charming speaker, I think we all learned a lot along the merry way – time seemed to stand still. The Contact Person: visit www.ontariowinesociety.com for upcoming events (April 4 Ontario wine fair, dinners, trips, etc.). Regular sitdown tastings will resume in the Fall. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 4. The Time and Date: Friday, March 16, 2007, 9 AM to 2 PM The Event: a tasting of wines in non-glass (tetra packaging, bags, boxes, PET bottles, cans, etc.) The Venue: LCBO tasting lab, Freeland Street The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in General List. We had price sheets, space for notes, provenance, and tech sheets from suppliers. The Quote: “A lot of non-descript wine in one place: better if we could blind taste it”. The Wines: I had requested that the LCBO put on an alternative packaging tasting, since there were about 80 such wines on General List. I was amazed that they acceded. Thanks to Leonard Franssen and Roger Torriero for presenting the collection. Most of my suspicions were confirmed. For one, there was a direct correlation between price and quality. One of the most neutral wines in the room was priced at $9.45 a litre; this was also the least expensive wine (per mL cost). The label said “Product of France. Packaged in Italy”.... The best wines in the room were the two Bilyaras. The Chardonnay 2005 Bilyara at $13.95 for 750 mL ($18.60 per litre, twice the price of the Kressmann) and the Bilyara Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 at $15.95 for 750 mL were both fat, round and juicy – as they should be at this price. Secondly, I had tasted the French Rabbit series many times, and I am STILL convinced that the regular boxing at $12.95 a litre is far, far better than the Rabbit Family Reserve boxing at $17.95. Save yourself five bucks...And thirdly, speaking of ‘Reserve”, where did the Beaujolais Reserve labeling come from? It doesn’t even appear on bottles, so why on a box? There is no Reserve in the Beaujolais AC line. Beaujolais Nouveau could be better served with a box, keeping the price down. Or at least with a screw top. Wines from the New World, because of their abundant sweetness, come across as better tasting wines at this simple level. The best tetra wines I tasted were the Likan Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, both from Concha y Toro of Chile at $12.15 a litre. The best Euro wines were the Spanish Osborne Ducal Merlot/Tempranillo/Shiraz series at $13.15 a litre, followed by the Italian Anfora Sangiovese Del Lazio at $12.95 a litre. According to writer Michael Vaughan, who tasted different lot numbers of the same wine, there was significant "bottle" variation throughout the tasting of all the alternatives, so beware... The Downside: nobody saves any money on these products. The profits go right back to the LCBO and some environmental agencies. There are no bargains or reduced prices – the same wines (or comparable) are available in glass at the same price. No breaks from the LCBO; just cash cows. The Upside: what is saved is the weight of the product (transportation costs, etc.), portability for picnics or attendance at functions, and the chance to cool it faster. Any other environmental gains are lost when you compare the energy needed to recycle these packages – more energy than is consumed with bottles. The Contact Person: leonard.franssen@lcbo.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 95. 5. The Time and Date: Monday, March 19, 2007, 11AM to 2PM The Event: a tasting of current VQA vintages from Stoney Ridge Estate, lead by winemaker Liubomyr Popovici, prefaced by some talk on wine changes at Stoney Ridge. The Venue: Chez Moi, Gothic Avenue The Target Audience: invited wine media, as space permitted. The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are available, mostly at the winery. Some had just been bottled. Over the next few years, SR wants to get more consistency by using certain vineyards for certain wines, and with lower yields. The Quote: “Stoney Ridge appears to setting themselves up as cabernet franc specialists”. The Wines: * Proprietor’s Reserve Brut Sparkling Wine 2005: first vintage ever, 60% young-vine chardonnay from Kew, and 40% young-vine Pinot Noir from Cuesta, done up in MC tradition. A year of aging on the lees. Good tiny mousse, hard PN nose, long, clean, slightly austere finish, very Euro style with lees complexity, some yeast at this time. Degorgement used a Reserve Chardonnay and some VSOP cognac. Priced at $34.95 at the winery, which I felt was a tad high for a sparkler without a track record. Maybe $29.95 would be more affordable this year, moving up later. 275 cases made. * Beamsville Bench Riesling 2006, $11.85 GL: their former Bench Riesling, now labeled Beamsville Bench since that is where the grapes were grown. Higher acid than in previous years (9.6 g/L) but good sugar levels, modest finish. Think apples, melons and fresh apricots. * Rose 2005, $14.95 winery and Vintages (later). Cork finished. From a blend of three distinct finished wines (vidal, riesling, cabernet franc). Some lavender, garrigue, brush from the franc, herby aroma, best with food. * Reserve Chardonnay 2005, $27.95 at winery: a blend of 54% old vines ML chardonnay from Kew, and 46% non-ML chardonnay musque from Fox. Good oak and fruit together on nose, palate, and finish. A remarkable blend, good punch and power, with plenty of fruity wood tones and vanilla, ripe fruits. A real winner, 16 months in French oak. * Founder’s Signature Collection Pinot Noir 2005, $47.95 at winery: black fruit shows but low nose, just recently bottled. Mouth filling flavours, nice long finish, good pinot noir complexity and MVC but needs cellaring. French oak for 16 months. Only 25 cases made! * Reserve Cabernet Franc Wismer Vineyard 2005, $36.95 winery: super- premium from small berries, concentrated flavours, attractive now but more so later, long finish suggests food. Recently bottled, with some bottle shock. French, Hungarian and US oak used for 16 months. * Founder’s Signature Collection Meritage 2005, $42.95 at winery: definite cabernet sauvignon nose, dry character (dry fruit, green, a bit weedy at this point), tannic finish, needs cellaring. Cabernet sauvignon (Cuesta) 48%, cabernet franc (Fox) 46%, merlot (Kew) 6%. French, US and Hungarian oak for 16 months. The 2003 Meritage, also tried, was only $23.95 (and still available), reflecting different grape percentages and treatment (one-third each of the cabernets and merlot). It was still green and light, dense and tobacco, but showing some more body and chocolate than in the past. Well worth cellaring, both of them. * Cabernet Franc Icewine 2005, $59.95: barrel fermented and aged, best with dark 70% chocolate and blue cheese, and goat cheese. * Chenin Blanc Icewine 2006 Sur Lie. 600 litres made (1800 half bottles) for a fall 2007 release, just bottled, good intensity close to an extra sweet Coteaux de Layon, and could also age forever. The Food: cheese, cold cuts, breads The Downside: it was too bad space was limited. The Upside: a great opportunity to talk with the winemaker in relaxed surroundings. The Contact Person: Lesley Muffett lmuffett@stoneyridge.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92 6. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 11AM to 2 PM The Event: Toronto Media Preview Tasting of the California Wine Fair. We tasted (blind) some 84 wines of the 400 to be featured at the Toronto section of the CWF (April 16, Fairmont Royal York) The Venue: Far Niente The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: wines are all over the map, at the LCBO, Vintages, Consignment, Private Order, now, soon, later, next year... The Quote: “The wines we were shown seemed to lack a certain definition, the California terroir feel. For the most part, they were good renditions of New World wines – but from where?” To which I would add, maybe the Californians were so successful that other New World regions just copied them – and now they all (regrettably) taste the same. The Wines: There were nine flights. The first and last were not blind, but were miscellaneous. The 11 whites (sauvignon blanc, meritage, pinot gris, etc.) were preceded by two sparklers and followed by some 12 red table wines, latecomers, four sweeties, and more. Chardonnays, pinot noirs, zinfandels, cabernet sauvignons, and red blends were flighted on their own. My faves (and since we all voted openly, the faves of many other writers) were the Murrieta’s Well Meritage White 2004 ($27.95, PMA; oily Graves complexity, good oaking), the Andretti Winery Chardonnay 2005 ($19.95, PMA; slight wood on nose, long long length), the Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2005 ($39.15, Vintages; integrated components, some finishing acid in the length for food), the Nichols Winery Edna Ranch 2000 ($44.25, Le Sommelier; honeysuckle nose, oak, age tones; off-dry-finish, sipper) in the whites. For the reds. It was the Renwood Old Vines Amador Zinfandel 2003 ($27.40, Regazzi; sweet nose, good body, classic zinfandel finish and some oak), Rutherford Ranch Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($18US, Eurovintage; sweet nose but MVC on palate, long length, some age showing), Lucas & Lewellen Santa Barbara Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($25, Schiralli; cassis nose, good length), Andretti Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($49.95, PMA; chocolate tones, dome density and fruit, needs cellaring time), and Newton The Puzzle 2002 ($75US, Select Wines; a bordeaux blend of four grapes, bright floral fruit and developing nose). The Food: hors d’oeuvre such as little quiches, smokey, tuna, lamb, shrimp. The Downside: there were only TWO Merlots, one from 2004 and another 2003. I guess they don’t make it any more in California... The Upside: great presentation and chance to catch up with the industry at a relaxing pace. The Contact Person: calwine@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 7. The Time and Date: Thursday, March 22, 2007 11 AM – 3 PM The Event: The annual Bouchard Père & Fils tasting, 2005 in this case. Every year Luc Bouchard brings us the latest vintage of BPF and Domaine Burgundies, plus William Fevre Chablis (a company that they also own). The Venue: The Club House of the RCYC, St. George and Bloor. The Target Audience: wine media, LCBO, private clients, restaurateurs. The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available now. 36 wines were available for sampling. The other 23 wines, not available for tasting, could also be ordered. There were over a half dozen wines for tasting from off the General List. The Quote: “The wines are very concentrated, even at the village level, ripe tannins and lots of extract.” The Wines: Of the whites wines, my faves were the Meursault Genevrières 2004 ($86) and 2005 ($92) – always the best Meursault he makes. The 2005 showed more fresh raw wood on the nose, and was better than the 2004. I enjoyed Montagny 2005 ($30, a bargain) and the Corton Charlemagne 2005 ($165). The most expensive white was the Chevalier Montrachet 2004 at $269; its 2005 version (not at the event) will be along for $326 a bottle as a private order. The William Fèvre Champs Royaux ($21, a bargain) is closer in feel to a Côte de Beaune than to a Chablis. My fave Chablis was the Monte de Milieu 2005 ($42, balanced wood and fruit). For the reds, I enjoyed the Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus 2005 ($106, I’ve always liked this wine), the Volnay Clos des Chênes 2005 ($78), Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2005 ($106) and Clos Vougeot 2005 ($190, the priciest red on display). The Food: great slabs of cheese (goat, firm, and blues) paired with routine breads. The Downside: actually too many wines to taste at a stand-up affair. The Upside: a great opportunity to cast a shot through the 2005 burgundies of one producer. The Contact Person: Woodman Wines & Spirits, 416-767-5114 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 8. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 3 – 5 PM The Event: Seminars from Peter Mielzynski Agencies. One was a vertical tasting of Montecillo Gran Reservas ,lead by the winemaker Maria Martinez-Sierra, who has been making the wines since 1975! The other seminar was the effect of terroir on Pinotage in South Africa, led by Cobus Joubert of Cape Legends Wines in South Africa. The Venue: Toronto Hunt The Target Audience: wine media, private clients, restaurateurs. The Availability/Catalogue: all of the Riojas were available from PMA or from Vintages as a special release. The Quote: “The Reservas are made only from tempranillo grapes, only in good years, and only from purchased grapes (the company owns no vineyards). We use only French barriques, and we allow the grapes to ferment on their skins for a month (industry average is two weeks at best)” The Wines: We had eight Riojas, all Montecillo Gran Reserva from select years. The 1975 ($145 magnum) was her first vintage, balanced on palate, longer finish, good detail, dense and chunky still). The 1978 ($145 magnum) had a balance of fruit-wood-acid, a terrifically well- paced wine revealing its layers of flavours one after another). The 1981 ($175 magnum) had an initial low nose, jammy, jammy cooked fruit, plums, long length, bottled in May 2006! The 1982 ($175 magnum) had a raisin nose, drying out but with good body and mouthfeel, exceptionally long length. The 1985 ($65 for 750mL) did not show well in my glass – I had to taste from another glass (the same wine was poured from the same bottle). The re-tasting was silky and balanced, light flavours, some volatile acidity, and comes on strong after opening up, but it took awhile. The 1987 ($159 magnum) had s sandalwood nose, well-developed palate great finish with a higher acid point. Needed food. The 1991 ($45 750mL) was certainly a value wine. It came from 65 year old vines, ripe blackberries, anise, and deep dried fruit on the nose. The 1998 ($31.95 Vintages in August) had a good hit of wood still, tight and dense, showing MVC, long length, excellent price. I’m not sure what we were looking for at the Pinotage tasting. The styles were all so vastly different: was this the result of terroir? Cobus Joubert spoke on pinotage in general, and on the Pinotage Association, which is trying to raise the grape’s profile. They distribute The Pinotage Aroma Wheel (info@pinotage.co.za). In 1937, pinotage was named thus, after a dozen years of grafting. It was first commercially planted in 1943. That makes it my birthday grape. We had five wines from Stellenbosch (2003 and 2005), one from Darling (2004) and one from Walker Bay (2004). The Darling wine (from Tukulu Papkuilsfontein winery) showed good wood on the nose, being made in a style that would have North American appeal, off-dry finish. The Walker Bay was Ashbourne Pinotage, with some herbal nose complexity, stewed veggies initially but with broad fruit on the back palate, finishing with taut acid. Definitely a food wine. My favourite was the Beyerskloof Pinot Reserve 2003 (Stellenbosch) with its deep vanilla nose, hot finish, sweet and jammy middle, some dried fruit present, good length, very well developed. It delivered. The Food: bread and water The Downside: people arrived late for the first seminar, but even so it was not full (50 spots were available, about 35 turned up). The Upside: hey, two good seminars for those who attended. Let’s have more! The Contact Person: Todd McDonald (tmcdonald@pmacanada.com) The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 9. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 5 PM to 9 PM The Event: The biennial Chairman’s Gala showcasing some rare wines from the PMA Canada collection. The Venue: Toronto Hunt The Target Audience: private clients, restaurateurs, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: there was a catalogue, but without prices. You had to ask the server. There were excellent notes in the catalogue, and space to write your own comments. All wines were soon to be available, mostly at Vintages or Consignment. The Quote: “There was a toast to Peter G. Mielzynski, the Chairman, on his 85th birthday – we used a rare William Grant Single Malt Scotch, worth $6000 a pop”. The Wines: they were laid out by table, about 4 to 6 per table. For some reason, all the sweeties were by the front door. I did not taste these or the spirits for I had to leave by 6:30 in order to make my seat at a concert downtown. My favourite wines were the Nino Negri Sfursat Valtellina 2003 Lombardy, made in amarone style but with nebbiolo grapes (a robust, rich wine for $49.95), the Wente Charles Wetmore Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($29.95; almost a meritage in shape, but rich chocolate tones dominate the cassis flavours), the Pepper Tree Reserve Wrattonbully Shiraz 2004 Coonawarra ($29.95; Eurostyle delivery of syrah), the Esprit de Pennautier Cabardes 2001 AOC (Southern France, $59.95; definitive old vine blend of 60%syrah and 40%merlot, aged in new French oak for a year and a half; a powerful wine with a silky delivery at the gullet), the Murrietta’s Well Red Meritage 2003 Livermore ($40.95; off-dry fruity California style, Bordeaux blend, aged 15 months in triple oaks (French, US, and Hungarian), the Proemio Malbec Reserve Mendoza 2004 ($25.95; aged almost a year in oak, nicely mature now, great black fruit and jam flavours), the Pepper Tree Grand Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 ($55; aged for 18 months in 2/3 French oak, rest in new US oak, mints and spices, nicely resolved), the Donum Estate Pinot Noir 2002 Carneros ($99.99, and it shows with strawberries and some black fruit, only 120 bottles for all of Canada), and the Villa Maria Syrah 2005 Hawke’s Bay New Zealand ($37, only 300 bottles available, dense, chunky, white and black pepper, needs cellaring. The Food: great slabs of cheese, at least three blues, goats, veggies, great breads, dips, platters from servers, salmon, roast lamb, roast beef, desserts. The Downside: there were no sparkling wines. Also, it was exceedingly warm and crowded by 6:30. The Upside: great choices of wines and food pairings. The Contact Person: Todd McDonald (tmcdonald@pmacanada.com) The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR FEBRUARY 2007 ======================================== By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 7, 2007, 11:30 AM – 2 PM The Event: A conference and luncheon on “The Future of the Wine & Spirits Market in Canada and Abroad”. The Venue: The Fifth Social Club and Grill, Richmond Street West The Target Audience: wine agents and wine media The Availability/Catalogue: Vinexpo regularly commissions the International Wine and Spirit Record (IWSR) to study the latest international wine and spirit trends and must-know developments in production, trade and consumption. Today, it was a three pronged release. We learned about the IWSR’s fifth global report, the IWSR’s report on Canada, and a quick preview of the upcoming Vinexpo in Bordeaux (2400 international exhibitors, 1200 journalists, 50,000 attendees). M. Jean-Marie Chadronnier, Chairman of Vinexpo, presented us with the findings and the preview. I’ll just summarize the Canadian content. First, the increase in wine sales in Canada is twice as high as in the rest of the world. In 2005, Canada ranked 9th worldwide in terms of still wine sales in value. Imported wines represent 69.39% of the products available on the market. France remains the leading supplier on the Canadian market, despite a decrease of 5.78% between 2001 and 2005, followed by Italy and Australia, the latter showing an increase of 171.83% over the same 2001-2005 period. Tequila, bourbon and vodka are the most popular spirits with Canadians. Beer consumption has dropped from 89.29 litres per capita in 2001 to 88.22 litres in 2005. The Quote: “As the market moves towards the premium segment, the share of red wine in Canada is growing” The Wines: with lunch we were served Gran Vina Sol Chardonnay 2005 (Torres, Spain, nicely oak tinged), Masianco 2005 Pinot Grigio (Masi, Italy, better body than most Italian PGs), Chateau Pey La Tour 2004 (Dourthe, Bordeaux, still tight), and Clos de los Siete 2005 (Rolland, Argentina, vibrant, ripe and ready fruit forward). The Food: Black cod quenelle, King crab cake and tiger shrimp, Bison rib eye, Tarte tatin, and chocolate truffle. The Downside: it started late, and people kept arriving even after noon. The Upside: great food and great wine, and a chance to talk to many wine agents away from the pouring table. The Contact Person: anne.popoff@sopexa.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 2. The Time and Date: mid-morning, February 13, 2007 The Event: Ontario Cuvee tasting of the top scoring wine submitted to Cuvee from each participating winery, a total of 47 wines. The Venue: Strathcona Board Room, 68th Floor, BMO Corporate Offices, King St. West. The Target Audience: Wine Writer Circle of Canada members plus selected others. The Availability/Catalogue: one of the conditions of all wines submitted to Cuvee is that they be available for sale on or following March 4, 2007. They are available to the public, mostly at the winery or by the case through winerytohome.com. There was a very nice catalogue put together for us, with all the essential techie data. The Quote: “Spectacular view from this height. You can plainly see the raging storms coming in across the lake”. The Wines: The tasting was done in silence. The wines were poured for us, or we could pour our own. These were my favourite wines: * Thirty Bench Wine Makers Riesling 2005 ($18 winery and Vintages), very good riesling typicity and a delicious length. * Peninsula Ridge Fume Blanc 2005 ($26.95, winery): BF in one-third new oak, 2/3 used, aged on lees in French oak for 10 months. Good creamy fume California style (not seen too often anymore). Oak tones, and fair price. * Angels Gate Single Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2005 ($18.95, winery): this guy Single must own vineyards all over the world, he appears on so many labels. Just kidding. Excellent MVC for the grape, some mild bitterness on finish. * Mike Weir Estate Chardonnay 2005 ($15.95, winery): better-than-half stainless, less-than-half French oak, and all cream with 7 months French oak lees contact. Powerhouse wine, good development, loaded with flavours, useful sipper at this price. * Niagara College Teaching Winery Warren Classic Chardonnay 2004 ($27.95, winery): BF and BA in new French oak, total ML. Still young and frisky, like Jim himself, some finishing acid. More a fooder than a sipper. * Tawse Winery Beamsville Bench Reserve Chardonnay 2003 ($42, winery): some cloudiness, very ripe and rich, tropical fruits. * Mountain Road Wine Company BF Reserve Chardonnay 2002 ($22.95, winery): BA and fermented sur lie, balance and development, best overall chardonnay here once the price is factored in. Good aging. * Stoney Ridge Estate Reserve Merlot Kew Vineyard 2004 ($39.95, winery): soft, fruit forward from total ML. BA 11 months in French and Hungarian oaks. * Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2005 ($12.95, LCBO General List): probably the winner of the red wine GL prize. 90% cab franc, 10% cab sauvignon. Soft and fruity, ready to roll now. * Peller Estates Andrew Peller Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($40, winery): extended skin contact, BA 18 months in 60% French oak and rest US oak. Juicy, fleshy, drinking well now. * Coyote’s Run Meritage 2005 (price n/a, winery): 54% cab sauvignon, 32% cab franc, 14% merlot, only 12.5% ABV, twist top (a pleasant surprise). Great MVC of Bordeaux quality for the vintage, but finishes light. * Reif Estate Cabernet Merlot 2002 ($50, winery): half cab sauvignon, half merlot. BF and aged in new French and Hungarian oak for 32 months. Ultimately soft, and fragrant but very Bordeaux-like in the mid-palate, still needs time to age well. * Kacaba Vineyards Meritage 2002 ($40, winery): 41% cab sauvignon, 33% cab franc, 26% merlot. Very good, balanced, almost ready, and enjoyable. Needs food. * Royal DeMaria Gewurztraminer Icewine 2004 ($89.95/375mL, winery): very intense gewurztraminer perfume and body, excellent taste. My favourite of the sweeties. The Food: nice lunch treats (sandwiches, salads, dessert tarts). The Downside: these were not the winners of the categories, just the top scoring wine from each of the 47 wineries. I’d prefer a blind tasting of the top wines, with the results emailed to me after March 3. The Upside: a relaxed venue, away from the trade crush (and salesmen). The Contact Person: Erin Mitchell of Cuvee The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, February 13, 2007, 2 PM to 5 PM. The Event: Burgundy Wines: terroirs & signatures – a tasting of several hundred burgundy wines, red and white, mostly from 2004 and 2005. Over 50 wineries were in Toronto (the show also went to Vancouver and Montreal). One-third were new to Ontario and were looking for agents. The Venue: Fairmont Royal York, Canadiana Room. The Target Audience: wine press, agents, sommeliers and buyers. The Availability/Catalogue: this event was run in conjunction with a Vintages event later that night, with consumers poised to taste and buy from a variety of special orders and Vintages releases skedded for Feb 17. Initially, it was a little confusing for the trade since certain wines and producers (e.g. Charton and Trebuchet) were not available until the evening. It took awhile to read the catalogue and sort it all out. But it was a very good catalogue listing. There were no prices, but I managed to get a Vintages Burgundy Event order form which listed some 80 wines. The Quote: “Most of the 2004 reds I sampled seemed to have pyrazines in the background”. That’s the lady bug business, and many people I talked to agreed with that quote (I did not say it; I’m just repeating it). The Wines: I did not taste everything. I enjoyed Maison Pierre Andre- Chateau de Corton-Andre Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2004 (good complexity), Domaine des Beaumont Chambolle-Musigny 2005 (juicy) and Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru Les Sorbees 2005, Domaine Roger Belland Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Clos Pitois Morgeot 2005 Blanc ($72) and Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2005 ($200, a knockout and great for a BYOW at a restaurant), Chateau de Meursault Meursault 2004 ($45.95) was a delicious white, Domaine Chevalier Pere & Fils Ladoix Blanc 2005 ($32.50) had soft fruit and their Aloxe-Corton 2005 ($45.75) was equally soft, fruity and ready-soon for a red, Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet Reserve 2004 (April Vintages) was the best of a series of Chablis I was tasting. Domaine Henri Delagrange Volnay 1er cru Clos des Chenes 2005 comes from pre-war (1939) vines. Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 2005 ($59.95) was solid, and I really liked the depth of his Gevrey-Chambertin 2005. Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2003 also showed good intensity from that hot vintage. Domaine Huber-Verdereau Pommard 2005 showed fruity promise in its density. A highlight was the Louis Jadot Beaune 1er cru Theurons 1997 ($47.95, good price), because it was 6.5 years old but not showing it yet. Jean-Philippe Marchand Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($54.95) was all soft and oaky. Jean-Rene Nudant Aloxe- Corton Les Valozieres 2004 ($60, May consignment to Portfolio wines) was free of pyrazines, which put it near the top of my 2004 red burgundies. Tastevin Selections agency was extremely busy, with a half- dozen scattered wineries and many tables to cover. I enjoyed their Taupenot-Merme table, with Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Combe d’Orveau 2003. Special mention and kudos to the Domaine du Chateau de Sully: they only have 2002 on the market place (they hold back). Their two Puligny-Montrachets were stunning; their two Chassagne-Montrachets (at $56.95 and $74.95) just as determined for reds. The Food: pates, terrines, and cheeses, breads. The Downside: the meats smelled off. The food was at two ends, and the smell was off-putting, particularly to the wines being sampled in those areas. Someone told me that they smelled too much of the fridge, but that was being polite. The Upside: a massive Burgundy tasting, with some atypical 2003s, and one 1997 well worth exploring. Also, it was not very crowded. Those who came were sophisticated enough to get a sample and step aside for tasting, allowing others to come into the tasting circle. The Contact Person: anne.popoff@sopexa.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): the pates and the terrines, plus the poor showing of many 2004s makes this one a 84. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, February 15, 2007, 1 PM to 3 PM The Event: Regional Wine Adventure, part of the G’Day Toronto show at the Australian biosphere tent covering Dundas Square all week. The Venue: Yonge and Dundas, home of the ‘hood. The Target Audience: wine media, wine clubs, some hospitality trade. But apart from the media I did not recognize a soul! The Availability/Catalogue: The invite came from Foster’s, but I had no idea that all of the wine would be just Foster’s. There was no mention of Foster’s in or on the catalogue, except for an order phone number. There was a discreetly placed listing of all of Foster’s international wines, with prices, in a blue marginated booklet, but you had to ask for it. Nevertheless, the catalogue for G’Day Toronto was arranged in regional order, along with specifics of availability and prices. And there were good illustrations of the 90 bottles (there were two no shows). The Quote: “Wow, is it hot in here!” The heat of the crowd plus the heat of the tent made it unbearable at times. The Wines: there was a seminar, which I did not sign up for in advance, because it would have cut into my tasting time. As it turned out, an enormous number of registrants did not turn up, and even though I was on the SECOND waiting list, I got in. Why did I? Because when I arrived, I noticed that Grange 2001 was being poured at the seminar, but not in the show itself. The only way to get to the Grange was to be in the seminar, as Matthew Lane (who led the seminar) pointed out to us several times. I got tired of hearing that from Lane, so I began tasting on my own. The seminar was shiraz, beginning with the Lindemans 2004 Reserve Shiraz ($14.95), then the Wynns Coonawarra Estate 2005 Shiraz ($19.95), then Rosemount Estate Hill of Gold Shiraz 2003 ($22.95), Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2004 ($29.90), and Penfolds St.Henri Shiraz 2003 ($53.95). It was a good comparison, and proved that the more expensive wines were the better ones (longer length, more flavour, more body, etc.). The higher the dollar the better the MVC. And that’s how it is in the wine world. The shirazes all came from different regions. My favourite was the Wolf Blass 2004 Grey Label Shiraz, at $29.90, great price. It’s at Vintages, and it has a minty expression as well as gobs of fruit. My next fave was the Penfolds St.Henri Shiraz 2003 (at least, the seminar notes said 2003: the sample on the tasting table was 2002). It had depth in its development. The Penfolds 2001 Grange Barossa Valley was listed at $300 in Classics; it got a 98 from Robert Parker. Whether it was the seminar or the glass or the bottle – it did not speak to me. It was in an apparent dumb state. I could recognize that it was a powerful wine but silent, and not worth $300 today. Needs time. At the table there was a better wine: the Rosemount Estate Balmoral Syrah 2001 ($64.95) showing Euro elegance and sensibility in a crowd of jammy fruit-forward reds. It is a shame that two other pricey shirazes never turned up at the tasting tables. Of the wines at the tables, I enjoyed the Greg Norman Estates Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV (61% pinot), listed wrong in the catalogue ($24.95), Wolf Blass Yellow Label Chardonnay 2006 ($14.95), Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95 Vintages), Wolf Blass Gold Label Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2004 ($21.95, mis-priced in the catalogue) in its twist top, Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2003 ($27.95, twist top, my fave white in the show). Almost matched by the very Burgundian Devil’s Lair Margaret River Chardonnay 2004 ($39.95). Lindemans St. George Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($47.95) showed nice aging, and it took on Devil’s Lair Margaret River Cabernet 2003 ($49.95, very minty, dry finish, the catalogue was mis-labelled), Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.95, gutsy but with some Bordeaux complexity, my fave cabby of the show), Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($29.90), The Food: basic cheese cubes and crackers, plus passed around hors d’oeuvres. The Downside: I had just arrived inside the main door when an aggressive security guard said (one second after I got there): “I”m sorry but this is a private event”. I didn’t even have time to produce my invite! Bad start for both a fellow wine writer and myself, both of us caught in this sector. Another wine writer was stuck when there was no record of his RSVP. We eventually got straightened out, and I guess that is the peril of being at Yonge and Dundas. My advice: get a different location next time. The Upside: it was a decent portfolio tasting, although not advertised as such. I appreciated the chance to taste Grange. The Contact Person: angela.lyons@am.fostersgroup.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 5. The Time and Date: Monday, February 19, 2007, 1 PM – 5 PM. The Event: The French Wine Connection, through the Economic Commission of the Embassy of France. The Venue: Ontario Club The Target Audience: agents, LCBO personnel, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: there was a catalogue, listing the names and addresses, a colour picture of a principal, website data, some logos and a brief description of the winery, plus a list of wines to be tasted (along with a pix of their labels). Some 14 wineries or groups were in attendance. The Road Show also stopped at Boston and Detroit. But the invitation said “None of these wines are presently represented in Ontario” – which was not true. Some of the wines were already repped here. What IS true is that none of the wines were repped in ALL three of Boston, Detroit and Toronto. Those wines which are repped here in Ontario might not be repped in Boston and Detroit. Got that? Some agents didn’t, and they were annoyed at making overtures to wineries already committed. The Quote: “Very nice wines, but they are priced similar to what already exists here in Ontario! That might be a tough sell” The Wines: pretty well all the important regions were here, if only with one or two wineries each (Alsace, Burgundy, Champagne, Bordeaux, Rhone, Loire, Languedoc). Chateau Roc de Levray 2004 was extremely interesting. Champagne Blin Brut 2000, Domaine Henri Schoenheitz Gewurztraminer "Holder" 2005 and Pinot Gris “Holder” 2004, Chateau de Suronde Quart de Chaume 2001, Domaine Joseph Mellot Quincy "Le Rimonet" 2005, Domaine de la Bastide Blanc 2006, Chateau Desmirail 2004 and Chateau Liversan 2003 were other wines that I enjoyed. Time prevented me from tasting many wines from the South of France. The Food: excellent French cheeses, passable pates and terrines. The Downside: for the third French road show in a row, I was unable to get prices. Apparently, one has to be an agent or LCBO in order to get FOB or ex-cellar wholesale prices. I was given some prices in strictest confidence, for background only, not for attribution – from other agents who had asked. The Upside: it wasn’t crowded, and the wine tasting was done by professionals who knew enough not to hog the show and when to step aside to let somebody else in. I also had a chance to speak to some smaller agents who just don’t exhibit at trade shows. The Contact Person: inna.punda@missioneco.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 81. 6. The Time and Date: Monday, February 19, 2007 2:30 to 5 PM The Event: Annual portfolio wine tasting by Portfolio Wine and Spirits The Venue: Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner The Target Audience: hospitality trade, private clients, wine media. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available (or will be soon) through consignment or the Vintages/Classics juggernaut. Superb notes in the catalogue, for background details about the wineries. The Quote: “Absolutely fabulous wine, but hard to see it with the sun in my eye” The Wines: I could not try everything, but I particularly enjoyed some Portuguese wines, such as Herdade de Sao Miguel 2005 ($16) which was good with the food, and the Aragones Sao Miguel dos Descobridores 2005 ($28), and the more affordable fruity, off-dry Merino 2005 ($11.95). The Sant’ Isidoro Corithus IGT 2004, from north of Rome ($16.95) was a good Bordeaux blend. Lorenzo Ruris Moscato d’Asti 2005 ($15.95) went very well with the blue cheese. Francoise Jeanniard Pernand Vergelesses Blanc 2004 showed body and value at $29.95. The Cotes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu 2004 ($19.95) was very ripe and flavourful, longish length. The Chardonnay Tour de Preignes 2005 Pays D’Oc ($11.50) was a sharply focused house white. The Greek wines of Pavlou-Kagas (Macedonia) were exceedingly fresh and developing – there was a Riesling 2005 blend ($14.95), a Rose 2005, plus some red blends. The highlight, though, was the Domaine Alain Voge Cornas Vielles Vignes 2003 ($65, 93 points by Parker) being warm and approachable from that hot year. The Kirrihill Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley 2002 (14.3% ABV) was good value, I thought, for $21.50. But the BEST value was the Bodegas Medrano-Irazu Rioja Reserva 2001, a Gold Medal from a French wine competition, for only $26.95. It has aged well, and will continue to do. It’s worthy of buying by the case. The Food: a great cheese platter with a knowledgeable waiter serving. Mushroom strudels and tourtiere strudels, steak on a stake. The Downside: the printed catalogue was loose pages only, and hard to collate (it was also late in production). The wines were laid out so that we could help ourselves, but people kept misplacing the wines. This made it difficult to keep tabs on the wines. The Upside: we could go at our own pace. Although well-attended, people stretched out over the 2.5 hours and knew enough to pull away from the tables. The Contact Person: wineportfolio@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 1 PM to 2:30 PM. The Event: A structured tasting of Le Clos Jordanne portfolio of wines, led by winemakers Thomas Bachelder (who spoke on the reds) and Isabelle Meunier (who spoke on the whites). The Vincor-Boisset owned winery sits on 130 acres of prime terroir land (Jordan Bench, Niagara Escarpment, and 4 specific vineyards). The Venue: Four Seasons Hotel. The Target Audience: wine media and LCBO product consultants. The rest of the trade came at 2:30 PM. The Availability/Catalogue: all these 2004 wines are being released through Vintages March 3, 2007. There are some bottles at the winery, but many are being held back for future sales, tourists this summer, etc. The Quote: Speeches were made by Jay Wright (President/CEO of Vincor) and Jean-Charles Boisset (VP, Boisset La Famille) The Wines: The properties have received ECOCERT certification as organic. The winery wants to grow and vinify its own grapes with minimal intervention, hand-work of picking and sorting, and low yields. All of the wines needed time to open up. 30% new French oak was used. The style was definitely Euro. Nine wines were tasted (4 chardonnays and 5 pinot noirs). The winery also grows pinot gris (a little bit can be used to build up the chardonnay wines in weaker years) and riesling (mainly for icewine, because visitors will expect it). The press kit came with extensive notes. Most of the wines are not yet ready, and most had closed noses. Here are my thoughts: * Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2004, $25, 780 six-packs: originally to be known as “Bench Reserve”, the name Village was finally chosen, to emulate the Burgundian roots. The blend from all vineyards (but primarily Talon Ridge) was 14% ABV, was very weighty with a long finish. At this price, it was the best value. The Village Reserve Pinot Noir (3188 six-packs) was a red and more fruity version. It too was a blend, and it is “restaurant ready”, priced at $25 to go...Because both of these wines were approachable, they were my favourites of the tasting. * Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2004, $35, 270 six-packs, was okay, a bit dumb in my glass. 14% ABV but had a terrific length. The Pinot Noir 2004, $35, 798 six-packs, 14.5% ABV was chalky and dense. * Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2004, $35, 798 six- packs, seemed oakier than the rest of the whites. The Pinot Noir 2004, $35, 798 six-packs, showed a harder minerality, perhaps more like burgundy wine. * Le Clos Jordanne La Petit Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004, $35, 376 six- packs, comes from a vineyard planted exclusively with pinot noir. It is a sandy vineyard producing lush fruit. * Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2004, $55, 470 six-packs, 14.5% ABV, was intense but needed time. The Pinot Noir 2004, $60, 180 six-packs, is definitely one for the cellar, perhaps at least 5 more years. The Food: n/a The Downside: considering the wealth of tasting talent in the room, there were few questions from the audience. And just about all of them were from the wine press. I had a few technical questions, however I delayed them for the after-tasting chat in another room because we started late (not my fault!) and had to clear out on time by 2:30. The Upside: a sit-down opportunity to taste the wines all at once. The Contact Person: sjennings@lewiscarrollcom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 8. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 2:30 PM – 6:30 PM The Event: Annual Portuguese Trade Wine Tasting. The Venue: Fairmont Royal York Hotel The Target Audience: wine trade and media. The Availability/Catalogue: wines are all over the place: PO, Consignment, Vintages/Classics, and General List. 40 wineries and 300 wines (mostly red, with the word “touriga” in the grape name), with a few sparklers, ports, and madeiras. The catalogue was oversized (A4 paper), a bit of a drawback when it came to writing. The Quote: “What a great selection of wines for every pocket book!” The Wines: here are the wines I enjoyed the most -- I really liked Luis Pato's Vinha Pan 2003 and Vinha Barrosa 2003. Many modestly priced wines were terrific: Quinta da Aveleda Charamba 2004, Caves Aliança Foral Reserva 2005, Vista Touriga Nacional 2004 and J. M. da Fonseca Periquita Tinto 2004. I thought the Porto Tawny Quinta do Bom Retiro 20 Years was outstanding ($75). Also the Moscatel Reserva 1996 from Quinta do Portal...The Quinta Mendes Pereira Garrafeira 2003 was rich and full, $23 from Jose Gomes, and only one of two or so Garrafeira in the show. “T” Quinta da Terrugem 2002 (Alianca) was another high end wine ($60) that got my attention. Overall, the best wines always seem to be repped by FWP Trading. This year they had Falua (Tagus Creek, meant to appeal to the North American market), J. Portugal Ramos (a delicious Marques de Borba Reserva 2003 for $80 and a spirited Syrah 2005), Adega Cartuxa, Luis Pato, Bacalhoa (the Palacio da Balcalhoa 2003 was a terrific Bordeaux blend with Petit Verdot, $40), CARM, Companhia das Quintas, Herdade do Esporao, Montez Champalimaud, VDS – with 11 tables, they could be having their own free-standing show! The Food: the event ran out of food (cold cuts, cheese, hot ham in buns), that is, savoury food. There was plenty of fresh fruit left. But apparently nobody eats food that is good for your body. The Downside: there were too many different wines, many of them worthy of exploration, but there was no time to do them all. The catalogue had no prices The Upside: the catalogue had lots of names and addresses, agents, etc. The show does get better and better, The Contact Person: william.delgado@icep.pt The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 9. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2007, 4PM – 7PM The Event: Tasting of Tulip Winery wines, a precursor to the Israel Boutique winery release set for Vintages June 23, 2007. The Venue: Crush Wine Bar, King and Spadina The Target Audience: wine media, private clients. The Availability/Catalogue: five red wines were tasted plus an engaging Port Esperanza 2003 (made from cab sauv grapes, aged for three years in used French oak barrels obtained from Remy Martin cognac producer). Only 58 cases of the latter were produced, and some are available for private order). The June release will have 10 wines from a variety of wineries, such as Flam, Margalit, Saslove, Sea Horse, Tulip, Vitkin, and Yatir. The Quote: “Hey, very appropriately titled wines: Mostly is a blend, Just is single vineyard” The Wines: Tulip Winery is located in Kfar Tikva, near Haifa. It is a Mediterranean winery, established in 2003. Vineyards are in the Judean Hills and other places. Production was 3,750 cases, split amongst blended wines, single vineyard wines, and a few Reserve style wines. * Just Merlot 2005 ($21.25 private) from all merlot, aged a year in French oak. Much like a carmenere, the grassy-leafy side of merlot. Dusty tannins, long length, youngish vines. 13.5% ABV. 308 cases total. * Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($18.75 at Vintages, June 23) from all cab sauv, Bordeaux style, dusty, off-dry nose, more merlot in tonal flavours, approachable. Aged six months in French oak. Nice price point. 14.1% ABV. 833 cases (150 sold to LCBO) * Mostly Cabernet Franc 2005 ($25.50 private), made from 75% cabernet franc, 20% merlot, and 5% cab sauv grapes, aged a year in French oak (and 10% US oak). 14.5% ABV. Full bodied, CF nose and MVC, developed slowly, juicy leafiness, needs additional time for cellaring, but my fave of the tasting. 375 cases made. * Syrah Reserve 2005 ($28.45, private) with 10% cab sauv added, 13 months in French and US oak, 14.5% ABV, 316 cases made. Good colour and body but no MVC, closed and dumb at this point. I wonder what it tasted like the next day. * Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve 2003 ($37.75, private) had a slight nose, needed time to open, but it finally did. A reserved wine, cellar it, 13.5% ABV, 80 cases made. Aged for 30 months in French and US oak. A dramatic wine, fairly priced. The Food: toast points, walnut bread, different ripe and blue cheeses. The Downside: a very short tasting, since I am used to picking my way through a lot of wines. Although the wines are very good, I wouldn’t mind getting a mixed case if it were possible. The Upside: good quality character in the wines. Loved the names Mostly and Just. The Contact Person: Vintage Wines, Paul Lokash plokash@on.aibn.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JANUARY 2007 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Monday, January 8, 2007 11AM to 2PM The Event: South African White Wine Tasting and Seminar The Venue: Ki Restaurant The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: the wines were mainly from the Jan 20 Vintages release. Niel Groenewald, winemaker from Douglas Green Bellingham, spoke to the wines. He commented on the changes in the industry, changes which occurred mainly in the past 13 years (post- 1994). Many of the wines were produced in the Cape Floral biodiversity area. The Quote: “The John Platter guide for 2007 has arrived, only twenty bucks for the book and shipping: call 416-698-8112.” The Wines: * Graham Beck Blanc des Blancs 2001 (+907568, $20.95): classy sparkler, great mousse, affordable, off-dry complexity. * Warwick Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (+1669, $20.65): elegant herbaceousness, longish length and development, fresh food wine. * Bellingham Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (+665315 General List, $11.95): top notch for the MVC SB zest at this price level, low nose, medium finish. * Stellenzicht Golden Triangle Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (+5140, $16.95): high acid on palate, long finish. * Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (+948620, $13.95): low but zesty nose, broad fruit on palate, okay length. Sip. * First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (+018705, $15.95): overthetop nose, very zesty with lemons, some shrill acid finish. Needs food. * Maverick Chenin Blanc 2005 (Vintages in March, $19.95): wooded, off- dry, but too much wood over the fruit, like a chardonnay clone. * Jean Daneel Signature Chenin Blanc 2005 (+596981, $21.95): sweet nose, slightly madeirized. * Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2004 (+328559, $14.95): balanced wood and fruit, French oak. My fave for some time. The Food: tapas-sized high-end Japanese food, with the requisite double-pronged chopsticks for elegance. We had more wine, this time all from Bellingham: The Maverick Viognier 2005 (consignment, $146/case of 6, very fresh), The Maverick Syrah 2004 (an ISD of 56 cases in February or through consignment at $246/case of 6), the Maverick SMV 2003 (70% syrah, 20% mourvedre, 10% viognier, consignment, $265/case of 6, or Vintages in Fall, 2007), and the stunning Douglas Green St. Augustine 2004 (cabernet, merlot, shiraz), all yummy fruit at $17 in Vintages March 2007. For orders, call Select Wines 416-367-5600. The Downside: Niel’s luggage was misplaced by the airline. The Upside: the wines went well with the food. The Contact Person: keenan@propellerpr.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Thursday, January 11, 2007, 1 – 3 PM. The Event: Barolo Tour of Four winemakers The Venue: Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, Church Street The Target Audience: wine media, restaurants and customers of Woodman Wines & Spirits. The Availability/Catalogue: it was a wide-ranging tasting of some 22 wines from Piedmont via four producers (Bongiovanni, Conterno Fantino, Einaudi, and Marcarini). Generous notes were provided. All wines are through a special order program, and range from $16.95 to $99.95. These are producers associated with Neil Empson, which Woodman reps. We all had a chance to talk with the wine makers and marketers here, although some translations were needed. The Quote: “A really good range of products here”. The Wines: I did not taste all the wines, but I did enjoy the delicious Bongiovanni Barbera 2004 ($32.95), the elegance of the Conterno Fantino Barbera d’Alba Vignota 2005 ($29.95), and the chocolate nose of the NA styled Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005 ($19.95). I was floored by the super Piedmont Bongiovanni Rosso delle Langhe Faletto 2003 ($44.95) coming from a hot vintage and with plenty of cabernet sauvignon in the mix. The Marcarini Moscato d’Asti 2006 ($16.95) was vibrant; it was also the first 2006 Moscato I’ve tasted. But it was the Barolos I came to taste. I enjoyed the warm Bongiovanni Barolo 2003 ($54.95) from that atypical year. The Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra 2003 ($99.95) was 14.5% ABV, had lots of wood and fruit tones, and has evolved into a NA style. The Einaudi Barolo 2001 ($69.95), Einaudi Barolo Costa Grimaldi 2001 ($85), and Marcarini Barolo La Serra 2001 ($65) are still available in the Classics catalogue. All show higher alcohol levels, and a longer acidic length more enjoyable with food. Einaudi Barolo 2003 ($69.95) is another fruity wine from the hot vintage. I thought the Einaudi Barolo Costa Grimaldi 2003 ($79.95), 14% ABV to be one of the better wines of the afternoon, with its trim fruit and fabulous depth. The Marcarini Barolo La Serra 2003 ($59.95) was full of soft chocolates. The Food: great cheeses and breads, although not particularly Italian. The Downside: it was a little crowded, mainly because the response was so large. The Upside: it has been awhile since there was a mini-Piedmont tasting like this in Toronto. The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 3. The Time and Date: Monday, January 15, 2007, 3 PM to 5 PM The Event: Sweet Wines from the South of France (Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaltes, Muscat) The Venue: The Library of Verity, 111 Queen Street The Target Audience: media. The Availability/Catalogue: There was a short presentation by Eric Aracil, Export Director, Roussillon Wine Council, followed by a tasting with hors d’oeuvre and chocolates. There were seven wines, soon to be released by the LCBO General List, in an affordable range of about mid- teens in dollars for 500 mL. The Quote: “Oooooh weeeee, check out the sweeties! Time for an insulin check...” The Wines: *Cornet & Cie Banyuls Rimage 2003 (100% Black Grenache): black fruit and chocolate, with finishing acid (makes it less sweet in the mouth) $19.45 for half litre (all wines are in half litres). *Croix-Milhas Maury Muté sur grains* (100% Black Grenache): much like port, black fruit, spicy, finishing acid. +22822, $10.95 *Croix-Milhas Banyuls 4 ans d'âge (50% Black Grenache, 50% Grey Grenache): Colheita port style, with nuts and rancio tones, red fruit showing. +22814, $12.45. *Henriques AOC Banyuls (100% Black Grenache): very hot and dry style. +26922, $13.95. *Croix-Milhas Rivesaltes Ambré (blend of Grey Grenache, White Grenache, Macabeu and Muscats): balanced fruit and candied tones. Medium all the way. +27581, $10.35. *Vignerons Catalans Gamme Collection Rivesaltes Ambré Hors d'Age 1974 (White Grenache with some Muscat): marmalade in colour, nose, and taste, suggestive of older sherries and madeira (some oxidizing, variable from bottle to bottle). Retasted at Verity and at LCBO Lab. (hey what do you expect for something 33 years old?) +23549, $21.95. *Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois Clos Bagatelle 2005: (Muscat à petits grains): fresh orange skin tones in the nose and taste, not cloying. My favourite of the show. +29967, $17.85. The Food: great service from the waiters, with little bites coming at me from all directions. Eric commented that cheese would be a great accompaniment, but we only had cheese with one of the appetizers and there was no cheese platter. The Downside: not enough chairs for us to sit on. Most people stood for the presentation for about an hour, with no drink and no food. The Upside: a good chance to make a comparative swing through the VDNs of the south of France (four agents were involved, mostly Noble Estates with four offerings). The Contact Person: anne.popoff@sopexa.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 4. The Time and Date: January 18, 2007, 2:30 PM to 5 PM The Event: Taste Napa Valley The Venue: Rosewater Room (second floor of the Rosewater) The Target Audience: media, hospitality trade. The Availability/Catalogue: there was a booklet, with two wineries per page, with names of attendees and numbers for addresses and websites, etc. Most of the wines were accurately listed, but some wines never showed up and there were some additions. Some reserves were not mentioned as such. No prices. Availability was scattered (Vintages, consignment, Classics, now, future, private orders, etc.). The Quote: “Sure is hot in here, especially with all the strays”. The Wines: it was difficult to taste the wines I wanted to taste, in some proper tasting conditions. There were far too many “strays” at the event (people who showed up unannounced and first timers) which makes life hard for the pros. The strays never seem to spit and they don’t like you to spit, they never move out of the way, they contribute to the general temperature level, they wear too much cologne/perfume/smokers breath, they move erratically, they eat forcefully. Ah well, that’s life at a high end wine tasting: the premier trade exhibition of the season, with expensive wines to taste and (as a stray) to swallow (e.g., Martha’s Vineyard at $240). That’s why I turned up early, fifteen minutes ahead of time, to strategize with the catalogue and head for the most expensive reds first while my palate was still fresh and there was no crowd. Actually, the crowd started coming in at 3 PM, so that gave me a clear shot for 45 minutes. I have no complaints whatsoever about not being able to taste the expensive wines. It was the mid-range that was problematic. Some two dozen wineries brought about three wines apiece, for a reasonable grouping of 75 wines. I really enjoyed Cain Five 2003 ($100, from the mountain, not yet ready), Cain Concept 2003 ($55, from the bench, complex but approachable now), and Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($47.10) and Merlot 2004 ($43.50) – both repped by Rogers. Heitz Martha’s Vineyard 2001 ($240, delicious, firm, long length, from Lifford), Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Stags Leap District ($69.95, Sept 15/07 Vintages, top of the line density, long finish, ripe and ready), Freemark Abbey Sycamore Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($62.62 licensee, dense cassis, nuts, repped by Kylix) and its Bosche Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($75.32). Stags Leap Merlot 2003 ($50.95) was one of the better Merlots at the show. Of the white wines, there is always the modestly priced St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc 2005 and the Raymond Chardonnay Reserve 2004 ($19.65, French oak, 14.5 % ABV, Grape Expectations). Clos du Val Chardonnay 2004 Carneros ($23.95 Vintages), Beringer Chardonnay 2004 ($27.95), and Laird Family Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay 2004 Carneros ($25 US, Prevedello & Mathews) showed high-end elegance at mid-range prices. Miner Family Chardonnay 2005 ($43, Barrique, with ML, French oak, 14.3% ABV, lush and ripe, rich finish) led the more pricey Chardonnays on display today, followed by the Signorello Chardonnay Estate Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($50, hot finish, Barrique) and the organically farmed Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2004 (14.3% ABV, tidy fruit, Burgundian in style, $60.20 from Rogers). The Food: great cheeses and breads, which I got to later. The Downside: eventually, it was too crowded with too many strays. Most people I saw had no name badge or a handwritten one or a business card. The Upside: fabulous fruit-forward, ripe and accessible dense Napa wines. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 81 (heat, crowds, and noise were not conducive to proper evaluation of the wines UNLESS you got there early. Let’s call it a split score: 87 if you got there before 3 PM and didn’t lineup for the food; 77 for after 3:30 PM). 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 mid-day The Event: Invitational wine tasting, the latest in a series of controlled Ontario versus Bordeaux wines. The Venue: Sette Mezzo, Eglinton and Bathurst. The Target Audience: there were 13 tasters, mostly wine writers. We tasted 34 wines in 34 different numbered glasses, all blind, and all differently numbered than any other writer’s. All we knew was that the wines were from Ontario and Bordeaux only, and that the drinkability window was open – no tough wines! The Availability/Catalogue: many are still available for sale at the winery in Ontario; some of the Bordeaux are at the LCBO. The Quote: The Wines: All wines were scored out of 100. The winners are at littlefatwino.com/scores070123.html The overall winner was Southbrook Triomphus VQA Cab Merlot 2002 ($50, 88.17 points), followed by Ch. Pouget 2001 4th Bordeaux ($52, 88.15), Ch. Margaux 2001 1er Cru ($339, 88 points), Reif First Growth Cabernet Niagara VQA 2001 ($50, 87.77 points), Stoney Ridge Cabernet Franc Merlot VQA Niagara 1995 (87.46 points), and Ch.Lafite Rothschild 2001 1er Cru ($349, 87.46). I did not try to guess which wines were which labels. Instead, I just concentrated on identifying whether they were Ontario or Bordeaux wines. I got 9 wrong (25 right?). All the wine I got wrong were merlot- based wines (St.Emilion, Pomerol or Ontario Merlots). Merlot is probably the least regional-specific, least-terroir grape on the planet. Seven of my wines were actually tossups which could have gone either way: I simply had no idea where these seven wines came from. In fact, I got all seven wrong! So what worries me are the other two wines which I completely mistook for the other region. Once I saw the final results, I could see that my favourite wines were Ch. Pouget 2001 ($50), Reif First Growth 2001 ($50), Lailey Cabernet Merlot 2001, Ch. Durfort-Vivens 1999 2nd Cru ($56), Ch. Lafite Rothschild 2001 ($349) and Ch.Margaux 2001 ($339). There was one wine that was definitely from California, at least in taste: the 2002 Hillebrand Trius Grand Red ($52). The Food: good buffet with pasta, chicken, risotto, salad, etc. The Downside: most of the lower scoring wines were Ontario. Also, I had some glass issues. The Upside: the top six wines had scores marginally close to each other, and there were three wines from each of Ontario and Bordeaux at this level. The Contact Person: Larry Paterson littlefatwino1@cogeco.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94 6. The Time and Date: January 23, 2007, 6 PM The Event: The Ontario Wine Society presented a 2002 Ontario Cabernet Franc tasting, with Konrad Ejbich as speaker. The Venue: Ontario Club The Target Audience: club members, the press, winemakers, prospective members The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines are available somewhere. The Ontario wines can be found at the winery. The foreign wines are at the LCBO. The reception wines were Willow Springs Riesling 2003 Niagara ($12.95), off-dry, aromatic, lots of body, and slightly oxidized (three bottles sampled); and the Grange Estate’s Trompour Mill Pinot Gris 2005 Prince Edward County, $16.95, which will soon be in the 2006 vintage. The 2005 was very tidy and refreshing, again off-dry. The Quote: “The Society has a lot of activity coming up, including the 25th anniversary celebration of Reif Winery (Feb 20), a new wineries feature (March 12), an Ontario Wine Fair of 100 – 200 bottles (April 2), a dinner at the Bangkok Gardens (April 24), and a Niagara Winery bus trip (June 9).” The Wines: Konrad had rated the 2002 Cabernet Franc vintage at 91, and several Ontario wines had scored high in the markings. Nine wines were sampled, including three foreigners from South Africa, France, and California). We all tasted the wines blind, not knowing which wine was which. Here are some notes, along with guesses, etc. All wines were Cabernet Franc from 2002. 1. Lailey: $29, but a bit green and lean, somewhat weedy, definite Eurostyle. 82 points by me. I had no idea whose wine this was, except that it was Niagara. 2. Willow Springs: $14.95, vanilla tones, mouth-filling palate, long length. 89 points. I rated it First, and at the price, it must also be rated as BEST BUY. Snap it all up...I had no idea whose Ontario wine this was. 3. Kacaba: $35, hot, thick, chewy with a substantial finish, 86 points. The Society ranked it second, while I placed it third. I thought it was the Pillitteri. 4. Pillitteri: $50, weedy, well-structured, typical MVC with bell pepper, better with food. 85 points. I picked it as the Kacaba. 5. Bellingham, South Africa: maybe the extra six months gave it a raisinated nose, aging well, a bit dried out, rustic complexity. 84 points, and I nailed it from South Africa. 6. Colio: $19.95, more MVC but smooth and soft tannins, atypical, big fruit, not Niagara. Colio? 85 points. 7. St.Nicolas: $24.95, but a bit shrill from an off-year in Europe. Definite Euro-style, must be the Loire version. Tart opening expanded, but too little too late. 82 points. 8. Ironstone: OK, here’s where the betting begins – anybody who could NOT identify this wine needs to turn in his/her card in the palate fraternity/sorority. It hits you over the head with California coconut, chocolate, chewiness, cherries, overly ripe fruit. Hey, guess what? It was the Society’s favourite (First). Even I ranked it Second. 9. Angels Gate: $18.95, and smoky, toasty, massive MVC, rated 85. I had no idea whose Ontario wine this was. Good value for the price. So I nailed four wines, and mixed up two more...Not bad, since I had just tasted 34 Bordeaux and Ontario blends a few hours before (so had Konrad). The Food: a serious attempt by the Ontario Club to upgrade the food seemed welcomed: cheeses, terrines, and cocktail food. The Contact Person: www.ontariowinesociety.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, January 24, 2007, mid-day The Event: A tasting of the Michel Rolland Collection The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square The Target Audience: wine media, CAPS The Availability/Catalogue: Michel Rolland’s personal wines are available through Mark Anthony Brands. He spoke on these wines, the ones in which he has a financial stake (not just a consultation: he consults for 150 clients in 13 countries, with 115 of these in France alone). They were a hodge-podge from Pomerol, Saint-Emilion, Fronsac, South Africa, and Argentina. It was plain to see that they exhibited a similar fruit-forward style, no matter what the originating region. All of the wines except the Argentine had a high percentage of merlot, which accounted for much of the fruitiness and non-specific terroir. The Quote: “If the wine has high alcohol, don’t drink so much of it”. The Wines: Chateau Bertineau St.Vincent Lalande de Pomerol 2004 ($39.95), Chateau Rolland-Maillet St.Emilion Grand Cru 2004 ($39.95, showing more depth for the same price), Chateau Fontenil Fronsac 2004 ($49.95, merlot with 10% cabernet sauvignon, taut, promising, very Bordeaux in shape with some bacon, olives, and tobacco), Chateau Le Bon-Pasteur Pomerol 2004 ($99.95, 80% merlot, 20% cabernet franc, very silky and deep framing), Le Defi de Fontenil 2001 ($99.95, all 40 year old merlot vines, long, rich and ripe finish, intensely dense and deep), Bonne Nouvelle Red WO Stellenbosch South Africa 2003 ($64.95, new world dusty nose but very Euro in style with some added fruit, aged in 50% new French oak until the final blend is “a la Bordelaise”), and Yacochuya Cafayate Argentina 2003 ($69.95, hot at 16.2% ABV but not obvious, currants, soft fruit, ready soon, all malbec in new French oak barrels). The Food: n/a The Downside: apart from Konrad Ejbich and me, nobody asked any questions. It was a missed opportunity, and I hope that Rolland does not think any the less of us in Canada. The Upside: it was a great opportunity to meet one of the most influential winemakers and consultants in the world, virtually one on one. The Contact Person: dshorrocks@markanthony.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 8. The Time and Date: Monday January 29, 2007 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: Conch y Toro tasting of new Chilean wines in the Ontario marketplace. The Ontario rep is Select Wines. The Venue: Fairmount Royal York Hotel, Salon 4 The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are on General List or at Vintages. The Quote: “Concha y Toro makes over 10 million cases of wine, and has 32% of the Chilean export market. They produce six levels of wine plus a top level of the best.” The Wines: the tasting was led by Jose Antonio Sotomayor, Regional Director for Conch y Toro. * Likan Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (+665349) and Merlot 2005 (+665331) are both General List tetra paks, 1 litre for $11.95, entry level easy drinking. * Trio Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (+678656, $12.95), Merlot-Carmenere- Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (+433920, $14.95), and Cabernet Sauvignon- Cabernet Franc-Shiraz 2004 (+433912, $14.95) are new to the General List. Trio is supposed to refer to the use of three different varietals in each wine, from different regions and in different proportions each year as a blend meant for consistency. The reds are aged for 10 months in French oak. The Sauvignon Blanc is a single varietal, but it is grown in three different areas, and sees no wood. It also has a twist top. All three wines showed MVC, with Sauvignon Blanc zestiness, Merlot chocolate tones and spices, and Cabby tightness. * Terrunyo Carmenere 2004 (+562892, $29.95 Vintages) had added cab franc for more acid levels, aged in French oak for 18 months, Euro- style, needs food, good depth but a light nose, come complexity. 14.5% ABV. In general, this line should be aged about 10 years, so it won’t be totally accessible until 2014... * Terrunyo Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (+562918, $29.95 Vintages) was Bordeaux-like, good grip, cassis nose, long finish, aged in French oak for 17 months, 14.5% ABV. * Terrunyo Syrah 2004 (+18523, $29.95 Vintages) had 15% cab sauvignon added. It was Euro-tannic as syrah can be, 14.5% ABV. The Food: n/a The Downside: few people attended The Upside: a chance to talk about tetra pak issues and Chilean wine in the future. The Contact Person: haddleton@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 1. St.Donatus Irsai Oliver 2004 Hungary: flower tones and muscat-like palate makes this appealing. Slightly off-dry. +012070, $11.95 2. Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($18.95, +163209) is a good mid-ground between the California/Oz SBs and the Loire Valley/NZ type. Sip or food. Should be available as a twist top with the next vintage. 3. Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2005 ($12.95, +130089) is really too early to drink or sip, but my tasting notes show a lot of black fruit and easy ripeness, with notes of smoke and eucalyptus. Keep it back. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR NOVEMBER 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Friday, November 3, 2006 1 PM – 3 PM The Event: a formal tasting of ten wines conducted by Alessandro Cellai of Castellare di Castellina. Of special consideration was the new Tuscan joint venture with Chateau Lafite Rothschild, known as Rocca di Frassinello. Castellare has 57 hectares of vineyards, all of it almost organic in that no pesticides or herbicides are used. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square The Target Audience: wine media and CAPs The Availability/Catalogue: all of the wines tasted are in the system or will be, through Vintages. The Quote: “Getting people out on a Friday afternoon takes a lot of work, but 17 people attended” The Wines: * Nero D’Avola Baglio del Sole 2004 (Sicily), $13.95 in May 2007, easy drinking with stainless steel fermentation. Five different clones are used, cherry-fruit brightness. 100,000 bottles. * Chianti Classico 2004, $24.95, 200 cases available, herby complexity, not quite ready. Certainly needed food. * Chianti Classico Riserva 2003, $32.95, June 2007 Vintages, one year French oak, warm, ripe and developing. * Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggiale 2003, $42, January 2007, from 45 year old vines, three varietals used (none of them French), 7000 bottles produced. Very warm year, very warm wine, ready very soon. * I Sodi di San Niccolo 2001, $72, Classics catalogue, sangiovese with 10% malvasia nera added. Usually scored as 90 plus. Two years in French oak. * Coniale 2000, $53, Classics Summer 2007, 100% cabernet sauvignon, 3000 bottles produced, two years French oak, strong tones of cabernet. The Rothschild venture (first vintage together is 2004) - * Poggio Alla Guardia 2004, $21.85, March 2007 Vintages, entry level, stainless steel, 45% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 15% sangiovese, 17,000 bottles. A bit tannic and tartish at this point, will soften with age. * Le Sughere di Frassinello 2004, $32.95, March 2007, 50 % sangiovese, and 25% apiece for cabernet and merlot. New French oak, 50%, 60,000 bottles produced, softer and wood enhanced. * Rocca di Frassinello 2004, $63, March 2007, new French oak, 60% sangiovese, 20% each cabernet sauvignon and merlot. 45,000 bottles. A highly competitive super Tuscan. The Food: cheeses, sausages, cold cuts, breads. The Downside: it was a Friday afternoon The Upside: we were all an enquiring group. The Contact Person: Paul Mathews 416-979-9153 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:30 AM through 6 PM The Event: a tasting of wines and grappa from Italy, the 11th year in Toronto. The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: the hospitality trade, wine press, restaurants, wine clubs. The Availability/Catalogue: another first-rate, sharply produced catalogue, with maps, full names and addresses of the principals and agents, names and availability of the wines, percentages of grapes. Only prices were lacking. The Quote: “178,000 hectares of vineyards have been put out of production over the past 10 years”. The Wines: I was able to attend a seminar “Indigenous Grapes of the Marches” which gave me insight into the wines of this up-and-coming region. The tasting was led by Giuseppe Martelli (Director of the Italian Association of Oenologists) and John Szabo (Master Sommelier). As always, the seminar was a technical success. More than 82 wineries were on board for the show. I tasted widely, but not of course, everything. Here are some notes of my faves: For whites, there was the Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneti Belisario 2005 (13% ABV, good acid grip, slight petillant, green apples); Empson Trentino Chardonnay Barricato 40 Bollini 2005 (delicious, some vanilla and butter tones, regularly turns up at Vintages under $15); and Vinicola Tombacco Piave Chardonnay Intrigo Barricato 2003 (13% ABV, one year in barrel, a bit on the light side but useful). There were very few pinot grigios, quite a few sparkling proseccos, and one or two sauvignon blancs and moscato d’asti. Bellusi Spumanti Belcanto Cuvee Rose Brut (all pinot nero) is coming out at $24 in the spring at Vintages. Trento Riserva Graal Altemasi 1997 ($25, MC sparkler) was terrific value for a frothy wine this old, 80% chardonnay and 20% pinot nero. From the reds, I enjoyed Avignonesi Salento IGT Primitivo Passamante 2004 from Puglia, although it was thick and heavy. Casa Vinicola Calatrasi Sicilia IGT TDG 651 Nero d’Avola/Shiraz 2003 (45% shiraz) was equally filling at $21.25 with a heavy syrah component to taste. Campo di Sasso Toscana IGT Pino del Biserno 2004 ($55) was a rich albeit North American style Bordeaux blend of 70% merlot, 206% cabernet, and 4% petit verdot; the Toscana IGT Insoglio del Cinghiale 2005 ($32) was a gutsy heavy blend of 30% syrah, 25% merlot and 25% cabernet franc, 15% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% petit verdot. Both from Halpern. Castello di Monsanto Toscana IGT Nemo 2001 was a $42 find, showing good wood in the 100% cabernet sauvignon wine. Farina Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001 was a steal at $36.95; the 2003 is now out, and it is better because of the hot vintage (Majestic Wine Cellars). Firriato Sicilia IGT Harmonium 2003 ($39.95 licensee, tightly knit fruit from a hot year) is repped by Thompson Vintage Trade. Casa Girelli Sicilia IGT Virtuoso Syrah 2003 ($20, April Vintages, some raisins, very Euro style); Rocca delle Macie Toscana IGT Ser Gioveto 2000 ($37.50 Classics, warm and good depth, long finish); SIV Sicilia IGT Villa Tonino Nero d’Avola 2004 (only $12.85, 13% ABV, very intense fruit and body, value); Maremma Toscana IGT Perolla 2005 ($14, 70% sangiovese, 25% merlot, 5% syrah, good everyday wine from Hanna and Sons); Viticcio Bolgheri Greppicante 2004 ($22.70 through Frati Estate, 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 10% cabernet franc, concentrated tones for North American audience. The Food: risotto, prosciutto, cheeses, breads, fries (?), steak sandwiches. The Downside: fries? Also, the catalogue was overwhelming because it had ALL the information for ALL of the four shows across Canada. Many wines are not in every market, yet they had to be listed. The Upside: plenty of detail in the catalogue, no need to ask questions of Italian pourers who were struggling with English. The Contact Person: Benedetta Marassi 416-598-1566 x 116 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 7, 2006, 5:30 PM to 8 PM The Event: Maxxium’s The President’s Tasting (annually for past decades), a sort of portfolio and Christmas party. The Venue: McLean House The Target Audience: customers, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: just about everything was available, a few by Special Order, but many coming to Vintages over the next few months. The Quote: “It was great to see many principals here, especially those from Andre Lurton, Masi, Tyrell’s and Sena”. The Wines: About 120 wines and spirits were offered; I did not – could not – sample all of them. I passed on the spirits and fortifieds. Here’s what I enjoyed: * Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaire 1995 ($125, +301663) and Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Rare NV ($129, +643734) were tied for my best wine of the tasting award, scoring 93 points each. * Serego Alighieri Vaio Amarone 1988 (Special order) was my fave red, scoring a 91. * Mersault Perrieres Latour (+970975, $78.25 2007 Classics Catalogue) was my high scoring white at 91. * Perold KWV Paarl South Africa 2001 (+993261, $89.95) was very dense, but with immense fruit at 15% ABV. * Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Merlot 2002 (+490649, $19.95, Spring) was a soft fruited and classic merlot from California. So was the Clos du Bois Merlot 2003 (+124883, $22.95, April 2007) at 13.5% ABV. * Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (+343467, Feb 2007, $21.95) showed MVC and good detail in its structure. * William Hill Napa Chardonnay 2004 and Buena Vista Chardonnay Carneros 2004 were both good oaked wines, on special order only (nobody had a price for them). * John’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek 2000 (+927640, $39.95, May 2007) had 13.5% ABV, and a fair bit of engaging mint. * Sena Aconcagua Chile 2003 (+688879, Classics, $79.95) was outstanding quality, ripe detail. * Chateau La Louviere 2003 Pessac-Leognan (+931394, $69) was both hard and ripe in its fruitiness, a good wine with food matching. The Food: every year we are surprised by the generous quantities and changing varieties of food. For example, this year we had scallops, venison, quail, baby ribs, pulled pork, oysters, ham, terrines, salmons, cheeses, plus a wide range of desserts. The Downside: unfortunately, a water main broke on Bayview and just about everybody was late, except those who were here for the seminar. The Upside: everything seemed to be better orchestrated this year. The Contact Person: Liz Campbell 416-849-7608 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 3 PM to 5 PM The Event: a formal tasting conducted by Matteo Ascheri of Ascheri Piemonte wines. This is his annual visit to Toronto. The Venue: George Brown College, supposed to be in the tasting lab but was moved to a committee room because of double booking. The Target Audience: wine media and CAPS. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is either here or will be available soon. The Quote: “Participatory pouring really bonds us well”. The Wines: there were seven wines and two grappas (Grappa di Nebbiolo, $49.95 for 500 mL; Grappa di Barolo, aged three years, $59.95 for 500 mL). * Gavi di Gavi 2005 Christina Ascheri, $15.95 Vintages April 2007, light in taste, fresh lemons, high acidity, fine food wine (aperitif or first course), 11.5% ABV. * Viognier 2003 Langhe Podere di Montalupa di Bra, $19.95 Spring Vintages 2007, aromatic, 13% ABV, slight oak tones, ripe, good body, modest length. 25% in new oak for 4 months. * Dolcetto d’Alba 2005 Nirane Podere di Rivalta di la Morra, $15.95 Summer Vintages 2007, aromatic, 12% ABV, easy drinking, red fruit, red currant tartness, first course wine. * Barbera d’Alba 2004 Fontanelle Podere di Rivalta di la Morra, $17.95 Vintages Essentials, 13% ABV, good dinner wine, ripe and full, berries, slightly bitter finish, nice with food. * Barolo 2000 Vigna dei Pola Podere di Rivalta di la Morra, $39.95 Vintages now, 13.5% ABV, firm, needs food, still a o=youngster, fruit on mid-palate, finish closed but will open with airing. 20 months in oak. * Barolo 2001 Sorano Podere di Sorano di Serralunga d’Alba, $52 Winter Classics 2001, tarry and deep nose, expressive of nebbiolo fruit with additional violets and roses, MVC. Best red wine here. 28 months in oak. * Barolo 2001 Riserva Coste & Bricco Podere di Sorano di Serralunga d’Alba, $76 Winter Classics 2007, $76, off-dry on palate, long long finish. 28 months in oak. The Downside: we had to wander around for the room’s location. The Upside: another chance to talk informally with Matteo The Contact Person: Paul Mathews 416-979-9153 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, November 14, 2007 11;30 AM to 4 PM The Event: European Gourmet Products Event The Venue: St. Lawrence Hall, King and Jarvis The Target Audience: restaurateurs, trade food and wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: 20 European food and wine suppliers from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France got together to do cross-promotions of their products. The actual event was the creation of small dishes by the chefs at Pusateri, using the foods being promoted, and matching that food against the limited selection of wines (there were 10 wines). We all had a sit down tasting for over 130 people, with table service. There was quite a lot of activity with people and waiters moving about, but the event came off okay. We were supposed to eat, drink and ask questions. It was a great opportunity to quiz the chefs and the producers and the wine makers. The Quote: “Participation is the key to discovering the rich flavour profiles and multiple end uses for these elite products”. The Food and Wines: We began with an overlong reception which put us back in the schedule. The reception wine Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Chardonnay 2005 (+129767, $13.95) provided a light lemony unoaked tang. The first course was porcini mushroom and French black truffle “cappuccino” soup matched with Grupo Yllera Cantosan Blanco 2005 ($14.25, Spain One) with clean green apples, and with Grupo Yllera Crianza 2001, a woody red in North American style from Castilla ($19.75, Spain One). The red went better with the food. This was followed by roasted autumn vegetable bagna cauda with both Spanish and Portuguese olive oils (separately, of course), accompanied by Grupo Yllera Bracamonte Reserva 2000 ($40, Spain One) which was definitely a tempranillo from Ribera del Duero with lots of red fruit and a yummy oaky tonality. Another accompanying wine was Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Rosado 2005 (+256149, $10.95) which had fresh strawberries in both the nose and palate. The rose went better with the food. The third dish was chili dry roasted jumbo shrimp with Spanish green olive and almond salsa and spiced melon jam (a great condiment), along with two Esporao wines from Portugal, the Reserva Branco 2005 (+500033, $17.95, dominated by oak spiciness) and the Defesa White 2004 (+681437, $11.35, very floral in contrast). The oaky Reserva won out. The best selection was the Italian olive oil duck confit and Spanish serrano ham cassoulet, with two Julian Chivites, the Coleccion 125 Reserva 2001 (+702431, $44.95, deep and complex with a hot finish, blend of tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot) and the Gran Feudo Reserva 2001 (+479014, $15.95, the same type of blend as the 125 but lighter with less smoke). The 125 definitely won here. The fifth and final course was a cheese tasting, with French Emmenthal on potato, a French brie brulee with fruit compote, and a Portuguese style cheesecake with a Esporao Reserva Tinto 2003 (+606590, $25.95, 14.5% ABV, richly fruited from the hot 2003 vintage) and the Cantosan Blanco 2005 again. The trade show continued after the presentation luncheon, allowing us to sample more cheeses from Queijo Saloio (Portugal) and Fromagerie de l”Ermitage (France), some Portuguese cookies, some Calisssons d’Aix, some mortedella from Salumificio Baldo, and a variety of canned veggies and olive oils The Downside: there were all of the wines with the food, and although I was very careful, I still had a buzz after swallowing the wine with the food. I hate to say this, but at some point I should have brought an expectoration bucket for the wine AND food. Spitting up food is not graceful, but you have to taste the wine with the food. I was able to spit that wine which I tasted on its own, but not the accompanying food. The Upside: a great, innovative event, not seen before in Toronto. We need to have more of these!! The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 6. The Time and Date: Friday, November 17, 2006 2 PM to 4:30 PM The Event: a walk around tasting with Jose Manuel Ortega Gil-Fournier, president of Bodegas y Vinedos O. Fournier. He is repped by Ex-Cellars Wine Services. The Venue: Prego della Piazza, Avenue Road and Bloor. The Target Audience: wine and food media. The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted 9 wines, 5 from his Argentine properties and four from Ribera del Duero. All are private orders, three months availability, prices do NOT include GST. The Quote: “These wines are no slouches. The Argentine wines are pricey but well within my comfort zone for quality wines.” The Wines: From Mendoza, * 2006 Urban Uco Sauvignon Blanc ($13), no oak, varietal intensity, long finish, affordable. The only white here. * 2004 Urban Uco Malbec ($14), 3 months French oak, tart but developing well, good structure, value priced, needs a bit of time. * 2003 BCrux ($26) 60% tempranillo, 20% malbec, 10% merlot, 10% syrah, one year in new barrels (80/20 French/US), food friendly, soft wine, best wine here for restaurants based on price point and readiness. Got 91 in WS. * 2002 AlfaCrux ($40) 60% tempranillo, 35% malbec, 5% merlot, 17 months in 80/20 French/US oak barrels. More wood tones, but more rustic character, needs more time. 93 in WS. * 2004 AlfaCrux Malbec ($45) 20 months in 80/20 French/US oak, thick unctuous, long length, lots of coconut tones from US oak? From Ribera del Duero, * 2003 Urban Oak Roble ($19) 100% tempranillo, 3 months in French oak, Euro sensibility, good balance, not overripe like many from this hot vintage, and fairly priced. * 2002 Blason de San Juan Crianza ($21) all tempranillo, 14 months in French oak, 14% ABV, full, ripe but firm, a big step up in quality for a mere two dollars more. * 2002 Spiga ($37) all tempranillo, a year in 80/20 French/US oak barrels (mostly new) showed a warm, inviting nose, full and rich on the palate, long length, great with food. * 2003 Alfa Spiga ($40) all tempranillo, 20 months in 80/20 French/US oak, woodsy, a bit fruit shy at this point, needs time. The Food: glorious cheeses and prosciutto, lots of breads, Italian flavours. The Downside: it was a light turnout, Friday afternoons are tough. The Upside: a great chance to chat with Sn. Gil-Fournier and taste his wines. The Contact Person: Nuray Ali nuray@ex-cellars.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Friday, November 25, 2006 3PM to 6 PM The Event: the Canadian Aboriginal Festival’s Sommelier Appreciation of Aboriginal Wines, Spirits and Food. The Venue: a luxury box at Rogers Centre, just above the exhibits, lacrosse field and performance areas. The Target Audience: wine and food trade in Toronto. The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines were not available locally. Doris Miculan Bradley, General Manager of CN Tower’s 360, arranged for the wines and spirits and did the cooking. All the wineries are owned by Aboriginals. The Sri Lanka wines are owned by local natives in Sri Lanka. Included in the spirit presentation was a traditional Inca recipe, Chicha Morada (in a svelte container), recreated and shared by Carlos Benalcazar of Cooks ‘n’ Corks. The Quote: “Some good artwork (by George DeWitte) was on display, as well as a range of fish eggs, teas, and candies”. The Wines: * 2004 Cherry Point Vineyards Forte Blanc Okanagan ($24.90), pinot blanc which had spent eight months in French oak, apples and pears and some vanilla. * 2005 Cherry Point Vineyards Pinot Gris Okanagan ($16.90), citrus with west coast tropicality, very light nose but long length, great with the salmon gravlax. * 2005 NK’Mip Riesling Okanagan ($15.99), 13.6% alcohol gave it lots of body, intense riesling nose, voluptuous ripe palate. * 2004 NK’Mip Chardonnay Okanagan ($16.49), 13.5% alcohol, tropicality dominates despite 60% of the vintage being aged in French oak for 10 months. Lush and plus, went well with most dishes. * Paillywaite White “Ceylon Classic” Sri Lanka NV (price not available), tasted of too many hybrids. The Paillywaite Cuvee Noir NV showed some labrusca foxiness; it was also a bit fizzy. * 2005 Muskoka Lakes Winery White Cranberry Ontario ($14.50), 11.5% ABV, off-sweet, intensely aromatic but lacking that cran tartness. * 2004 Cherry Point Vineyards Forte Okanagan ($26.90) from the castel grape, cherries and raspberries, deep and attractive but pricey. * 2004 Cherry Point Vineyards Bete Noire Vol II Okanagan ($15.60) from a Hungarian grape (Agria), with anise and lavender aromas. Tannic but seems great with food, and affordable in price. * 2004 Cherry point Vineyards Pinot Noir Okanagan ($18.90), aged in French oak barrels, black fruit and black pepper, good PN consistency MVC all the way. * 2004 NK’Mip Merlot Okanagan ($18.99) 14% ABV, best wine of the day, tannic finish but terrific with food, needs time but it is developing well. Start drinking it with less hearty foods as it ages. * NV Rodrigues Blueberry Wine Newfoundland ($12.45), ripe and fruity, more sweet than I expected, but good blueberry tones. * NV Cherry Point Vineyards Cowichin Blackberry Dessert Wine Ontario (price not available), aged in barrels, not very sweet, quite similar to one made in Ontario that was selling for $19.95 a few years back. Delicious complexity, went well with the drier desserts. Also: Bolivar Coffee liqueur, Oh Canada Maple Whiskey Liqueur, DCSL Very Special Old Arrack (a coconut arrack made in Sri Lanka which will knock your socks off), Liquor Guerro Maya (a distillate made from raw sugar cane, tastes off-sweet), Biondi Traditional Pisco from Peru, and Pitu Cachaca do Brasil. In all 20 products were sampled, and matched against the food... The Food: ...which was both ample and substantial. The cold selection featured west coast salmon gravlax, duck prosciutto, elk salami, cheeses (sheep, goat, cow), smoked mackerel, pickled salads, and wild asparagus. The hot section had a venison sausage, a buffalo stew, a wild turkey chili (I just had something like this for lunch at home, with organic turkey!), potato-basil dumplings, Manitoba organic wild rice pilaf, wild morel and turtle mushroom tarts. The dessert platter was almost all molasses-based, with cloudberry tarts, blueberry muffins, partridgeberry (and other berries) pie, and cookies. The Downside: again, it was Friday and a light turnout. The beginning did not augur well when nobody could find a corkscrew for the first half-hour. But we did have a chance to pre-sample the food at that point. The Upside: an excellent chance for an Aboriginal Food and Wine Tasting. Great foods, good wines. The Contact Person: Doris Miculan Bradley <2dry@rogers.com> The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 8. The Time and Date: Monday, November 27, 2006 2 PM to 5 PM The Event: A tasting of Austria’s Great White Wines, with Michael Thurner and Willi Klinger of the Austrian Wine Board. The Venue: Amadeus Restaurant The Target Audience: wine writers The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines are currently available in Ontario, but they could be at any time especially since Winzer Krems is in this market. The Quote: “The typical Austrian winery is 22 hectares, and these wines (all hand picked) are from estates smaller than that” The Wines: 15 white wines were tasted, all high end, at different sugar levels. They were served in flights of three, with five courses of gourmet dishes which went with each trio of wines. * Gross Sauvignon Blanc Sulz 2005, 12.5% ABV: clear, lemony herbs, Euro style, classic Loire, aperitif. * Kollwentz Sauvignon Blanc Steinmuhle 2004, 13% ABV: pale straw, hotter wine, longer length, higher acid, more food friendly. * Strauss Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003, 13.5% ABV: rounder, full, off- dry, hot year, some oaking, late picked. Sipper Food – confit of salmon with caviar crème fraiche and graved lax with white salsify salad. The salmon confit was superb. The Kollwentz SB was the clear food wine winner of the poll taken of the writers. * Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Kammerner Lamm 2005, 14% ABV: very aromatic, high alcohol on nose, very full palate, a bit of a sharp edge on the finish, fresh. * Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner Kremser Wachtberg 2004, 13% ABV: higher acid finish, food wine, a bit oxidized on the finish (2 bottles sampled). * Loimer Gruner Veltliner Spiegal 2003, 13.5% ABV: good depth, shows white pepper, clean, brisk from a hot year. Food – Shredded smoked chicken and praline of chicken liver with baby cress. There were two balls of chicken livers, rolled in sweet and savoury bits. The Winzer Krems, maybe because of its slight oxidative character, seemed to go with all three elements of meats. The Gobelsburg went best with the smoked chicken, in a refreshing sort of way. This plate was hard to match because the food on the plate was so different from each other, and the wines were very close together in flavour profile. * Proidel Riesling vom Urgestein Ehrenfeis 2005, 13.5% ABV: firm riesling nose, some anise, good body, lovely finish, bone dry, high acid. * Nigl Riesling Privat 2004, 13% ABV: twist top, searing high acid, not very riesling-like. Needed food. * Prager Riesling Wachstum Bodenstein 2003, 13.5% ABV: riesling nose and character, hot year vintage, some anise, very good. Food – Pan seared fillet of bass with braised baby leeks and white cabbage, citric emulsion and shellfish oil. Another tough choice. My first pick was the Proidl for its anise and body, followed by the Prager for its anise. * Stadlmann Mandel Hoh Zierfandler 2005, 13% ABV: zierfandler is a comeback varietal, rich and unctuous with spaetlese density. * H&A Nittnaus Heideboden Weiss 2004, 13% ABV: pinot blanc in disguise, some petillance and higher acid in the finish. * Wieninger Chardonnay Grand Select 2003, 13.5% ABV: chardonnay nose, some wood development, well-made, but quite similar to other global chardonnays. Food – Provimi Wiener schnitzel with red skin potato mash, cranberry kumquat relish. By this time, we were falling behind in the schedule and there was little round table discussion of which wine went best with the food. Yet, with three different grape varieties, this was the hardest pick. Chardonnay was familiar, so it got a pick. But the Zierfandler also stood up to the schnitzel. * Brundlmayer Gelber Muskateller Eiswein 2005, 8% ABV: intense muscat nose and flavours and sweetness. Orange tones. * Schrock Ruster Ausbruch Turner 2004, 10.5% ABV: acidic depth, very sweet, some acetic acid flavour. * Kracher Cuvee TBA No 1 2003, 10% ABV: intense sweetie. Food – Poached apricot-pistachio strudel with semi-freddo orange. Because of the orange parfait, the Brundlmayer was the hands down winner here. Other wines tasted: there were a variety of wines available in the Ontario marketplace, ten to be exact. We were running short of time, I had another function to go to with the Austrians in tow (see below). So I only tasted Schlossweingut Bockfliess Pinot Blanc 2004 (+675546, $16.95, long length, food wine), Schlumberger Blanc de Blanc Brut sparkling (+284596, $14.95) great for Christmas but with food, Stadt Krems Gruner Veltliner Sandgrube 2005 (+687913, $14.95) had some body and length, and the Machherndl Riesling Smaragd Steinterrasses 2005 (13%ABV, no other details) had the typical MVC of riesling. The Food: see above The Downside: it started very late, and some writers came even later from another engagement. It’s a tough time of year. Also, prices were hard to come by, nothing specific. Try the Austrian trade office. The Upside: the reduced time meant that we got right through it without any padding. The Contact Person: toronto@austriantrade.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 9. The Time and Date: Monday, November 27, 2006 6:00 PM to 8 PM The Event: Ontario vs. BC with Tony Aspler, organized by Sadie Darby. The Venue: Ontario Club, Commerce Court South The Target Audience: Ontario Wine Society members and guests. The Availability/Catalogue: wine availability varies as to winery and LCBO practices. Maybe the Vincor Ontario wine stores will sell the BC wines that it owns – someday. The opening reception was sponsored by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board and Willi Klinger, the new CEO. It was but a short walk away from Amadeus where there was an earlier tasting of some three dozen Austrian wines that I had attended. He provided a Gruner Veltliner 2005, a non-competitive grape for Canada. It was crisp and lemony but with a soft finish, good for the reception. The Quote: “What a big crowd tonight!” The Wines: Wine writer Tony Aspler picked ten wines, five from Ontario and five from British Columbia (six whites and four reds). His advice was drawn from his experience in putting together “The Wine Atlas of Canada” published in October by Random House Canada. We were all asked to match the wines to their viticulture area, in addition to sorting out the varietals. I had mixed success with the ID process. * Hillebrand Trius Riesling Dry 2005 Niagara, +303792, $14.95 (LCBO): good body and length, lemons, appetite provoking, some anise, grapefruit and limes. I picked Ontario Riesling. The label fooled me because under J.L Groulx (now at Stratus), the Riesling was searingly acidic. * Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Pinot Blanc Reserve 2004, +989228, $13.49 (winery): off-dry complexity, some effervescence. Body and smoothness. I picked BC and stabbed at Pinot Blanc. * Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Niagara, $18.95 (Vintages): no brainer, good quality Ontario Sauvignon Blanc, all the MVC there. Lemons and long length. Best white of the event. * Henry of Pelham Chardonnay 2005 Barrel Fermented Niagara, $19.95 (Vintages soon, winery): too cold in the glass, but oaky creaminess shone through, long length, a bit off-dry. I picked BC Chardonnay – I thought it tasted more BC than Ontario. * Mission Hill Chardonnay 2004 Select Lot Collection Okanagan, $ over 20 (winery): robust, lemons and acid on the finish, very pleasant but not very chardonnay-like. I picked BC but left the variety blank. * Hawthorne Mountain Gewurztraminer 2005 Okanagan, $12.86 (winery): tart, unfriendly acid. I picked Ontario but left the grape blank. It was nowhere near a gewürztraminer taste. I still could not believe it when the announcement was made. Then, the crib sheet came out with the price -- $12.86. You cannot make a decent gewürztraminer in Canada at this price level. There are hardly any such wines with a gewürztraminer MVC. You either have to make a LH version or do better cropping to make a wine that TASTES like gewürztraminer in Canada. * Creekside Estate Meritage 2002 Reserve, $34 (winery): very aromatic nose, currants, balanced, older wine. I picked Ontario and Meritage or Cab-Merlot blend. * Jackson-Triggs Merlot 2002 Proprietors Grand Reserve Niagara, +563197, $23.95 (Vintages): low nose, some tartness on finish, soft but full. Best with food. I picked an Ontario Merlot. * Sumac Ridge Merlot 2003 Black Sage Okanagan, $17.95 (Vintages): night and day with the previous wine, oaky, cream, some chocolate tones. I picked BC and Merlot, possibly Cabernet Sauvignon if the wine was five years or more of age. * Jackson-Triggs Shiraz 2004 Proprietors Reserve Okanagan, $19.99 (winery): yummy long length, not very syrah-like, but definitely new world charm. I could go for a Cab Shiraz blend, but I stuck with BC and Shiraz/Syrah. Best red wine of the event. My score: one point for location, one point for varietal – totals 16 out of 20 (shame about the gewürztraminer). The Food: so-called “enhanced choice” of food means nothing fried, more cheese, and piped canapés. Best to stick with just the cheese. Maybe do a deal with the Dairy Farmers of Canada? The Downside: more chatter than normal, probably because it was a sellout crowd. Indeed, many new people joined... The Upside: a great opportunity to taste a variety of wines from British Columbia. The Contact Person: www.ontariowinesociety.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH NOVEMBER 2006 The Charles Baker Project: Charlie has been working to perfect the ultimate Ontario Riesling. He has come up with a VQA Vinemount Ridge Picone Vineyard 2005 Riesling, 11% ABV, his first vintage from the vineyards of chef Marc Picone. It has been made at Stratus, where Charlie works. The grapes come from 22 year old vines, grown at the top of the ridge site. It’s in the off-dry mode, with ripe pears and citrus tones, fresh and elegant with good finishing acid for food pairing. 250 six packs were made, at about $35 each. But of course, they are all gone. You might find some at JK Wine Bar, about $54 on his list. This first vintage will be back next year... On the import side, Karl Kovacs provided me with a bottle of Puklus Tokaji Furmint 2005 (+608505, $12.95 Vintages, 750 mL), a pretty good deal since the LCBO tasting panel has described it as a “principle” wine, probably of high moral certitude. (“Furmint, the principle grape of the legendary sweet wine Tokaji Aszú, proves here it can make an attractive dry table wine.”). Think medium-acid citrus tones, good fresh flavours. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR OCTOBER 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com I was in Wolfville, NS for the first 10 days of October, missing about six events. 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 11, 2006, 2 PM to 9 PM The Event: Portfolio tasting for Mondia Alliance, Barrique Wine Imports and VinVino Wine Merchants The Venue: Rosewater Supper Club The Target Audience: private clients, wine press, restaurants The Availability/Catalogue: just about everything is in Ontario, some coming in now. The Quote: “Sure looks dark up here – I cannot see the labels” (ref. to second floor tasting) The Wines: over 250 wines could be tasted; I did not do them all, of course, but my faves for the tasting were White wines – J.Lohr Chardonnay Riverstone 2005 ($18.95 General List, integrated butterscotch), J.Lohr Chardonnay Arroyo Vista 2004 (consignment, $31.95, oaky character), Martin Ray Chardonnay 2004 Russian River (consignment, $28.95, soft and classy), Miner Family Chardonnay Napa 2005 (consignment, $40.95, long finish, good wood), Optima Chardonnay 2004 (consignment, $35.95, good integration of flavours), Catena Zapata Chardonnay 2003 Catena Alta Mendoza (Classics, $42, terrifically complex), Wakefield Chardonnay 2003 Clare Valley ($18.95, consignment, good oak depth, broadly sweet on palate), Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Reserve 2004 (consignment, $21.95, great opulence at this price level, one of my main faves of the day). Red wines – Brokenwood Shiraz Graveyard Vineyard 2003 Hunter ($78.95, consignment, thick and unctuous), Penmara Shiraz Yatalla Creek 2003 ($16.95 consignment, tang finish), Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 St. Andrews (consignment, $53.95, juicy fruit bomb), J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop Vyd 2003 (consignment, $36.95, good draw and character), J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Seven Oaks (consignment, $21.95, off-dry MVC), Miner Family Oracle Napa 2002 ($64.95, consignment, Meritage style opulence), Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2002 (consignment, $57.95, with 7% cabernet franc, soft but fruity), Robert Keenan Merlot 2002 Napa (consignment, $42.95, typically soft but with depth to the finish), Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot-Cabernet Franc Affinity 2002 (consignment, $54.95, powerful depth), J. Bouchon Premium Assemblage 2003 Chile ($24.95, nice blend of cab, malbec, carmenere, and syrah), Bodegas LAN Rioja Edicion Limitada 2002 (classics, $55, raisins but also tight, needs time, etc.), Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 and its Il Picchio version ($28.95 and $39.95 respectively, the highlights of the Italian wines being sampled). The Food: a huge great cheese platter with good breads, constantly replenished, and conveniently away from the tasting (no smells, no crowds) The Downside: the south side of the second floor was not very well lit; I had difficult time finding information about the wines. The Upside: lots of interest, lots of people. An uptodate order catalogue was exceptionally useful. The Contact Person: order@barrique.ca and info@vinvino.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88 2. The Time and Date: Friday October 13, 2006 8 AM through 10 PM The Event: an all day Ontario Craft Brewers media tour, from Yonge and Mount Pleasant up through Bracebridge and back. This is one of the Craft Brewer tours. The Venue: various breweries and a bus tour. The Target Audience: press. The Availability/Catalogue: all beers are available locally, and scattered throughout Ontario via draught and bottles at the LCBO. The Quote: “Friday the Thirteenth? Shouldn’t bother me!” – then we needed FOUR different buses to complete the trip (one broke down on Thursday). The Beers: we toured Granite at Yonge and Mt. Pleasant in the AM and tasted in the PM. The best introduction to the Granite is the sampler platter at the restaurant. Beers are all draught but many can be purchased on site for home consumption. Granite has been in business for 15 years. Check www.granitebrewery.ca There are seasonal brews such as Summer Ale (4% ABV, light, with wheat added malt). Best months are April and October where they have a full slate of beers. I had 10, which included their fabulous Peculiar Ale (full malty sweet finish, 5.6%), Keefe’s Irish Stout (4.5%, dry finish), IPA (5%, cask conditioned, dry hopped), Best Bitter Special (4.5% dry hopped, refreshing, my fave of the series here), plus an occasional Barley Wine, an off-dry cask conditioned 9% ABV). Off to Hockley Valley Brewing Co. for a tour. They make two ales, a Dark (English style, chocolate tones) and a Gold (light, draught style), bottled in half-litre cans imported from the UK. Hockley Dark was voted best dark ale at the 2006 Ontario Brewing Awards. www.hockleybeer.ca for details. All of the production is hand crafted, right down to the hand filled cans of beer (they can do 1968 cans on a worker shift). On to Barrie and to the Robert Simpson Brewing Company. They only make one beer: Confederation Ale (seven different types of malt, malty sweetness in the finish). Owner Peter Chiodo Jr. has decided that he will continue to make just the one beer until he gets all the nuances right. Then — and only then – will he move on to another beer. You can get it in the can or by draught, and there is a slight aromatic difference between the two. Details are at www.robertsimpsonbrewery.com. Phil DiFonzo from King Brewery in Nobleton was also along to show his wares over lunch. Oscars of Barrie did the catering (they had previously won a Fetzer Appetizer Challenge a few years back with their signature maple syrup smoked salmon). King had a Pilsner (4.8%, aromatic hoppy, good long finish) and a Dark Lager (4.8%). Next, we drove to downtown Bracebridge, to taste Lakes of Muskoka Cottage Brewery. In addition to making a REAL Ginger Ale (non- alcoholic for $1 a 341 mL bottle), they have five beers. I especially enjoyed the Muskoka Organic Hefe-Weissbier, available as draught or bottle, with its clovey tones. There is a Premium Lager, Honey Brown Lager, Premium Dark Ale, and Cream Ale. I hear reports from my relatives and friends about how good the beer is, and the tasting certainly bears that out. The style is mostly off-dry in the finish, but then, we mainly had the draught versions. The Food: Oscars gave us their signature salad (the maple smoked salmon with quail egg and Confederation Ale vinaigrette), duck confit with a king Dark lager reduction, and a Robert Simpson apple crisp with Confederation Ale glaze. We tried all the beers with lunch, except for the Hockley Valley. Matchups were debated and discussed at great length, with comments from the chef and the brewers. The Downside: Our bus would not start in Barrie, which necessitated a 2.5 hour wait. Personally, I think that the tour needs one more brewery along the route. The Upside: a great way to pair beer and food, and the tour was useful to me since I do not own a car. The Contact Person: Mary MacIsaac, maci@rogers.com or www.ontariocraftbrewers.ca (details on 29 members and 138 beers). The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 3. The Time and Date: Monday October 16, 2006, 12:30 to 3 PM The Event: a seminar on sherry and food, presented to food and beverage professionals by Cesar Saldana, Director General of the Regulating Council of the Denomination of Origin Jerez-Xeres-Sherry, Manzanilla- Sanlucar de Barrameda and Vinagre de Jerez in Spain (really). The Venue: Cava restaurant. The Target Audience: the hospitality trade, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: the presentation consisted of a structured tasting of several different sherries, each paired with a different food item. We also had a Palo Cortado comparison (three different ones) which illustrated the evolution of the wine. Sn. Saldana described the sherry process with PowerPoint, and then we settled into food and wine matching. The Quote: “Finos are fortified up to 15% ABV, while olorosos are fortified up to 17% ABV” The Wines and Food: We had seven courses. First up was Manzanilla coupled with sea scallops and pickled wild leeks. The manzanilla was dry with almonds and saltiness from the ocean. It was poured from half- bottles. The amontillado (off-dry, biological aging under flor) was terrific with the chilled leek puree and avruga caviar. The oloroso, with its intense deep and long finish and oxidative aging patterns, went with the bison bresaola – the black pepper and key lime sorbet was unusual. The first Palo Cortado was Peninsula from Lustau, 10 years old on average, 19% ABV, traditional in scope, with a wild mushroom socca crepe and duck crackling and jus. The next Palo was Jerez Cortado Hidalgo VOS, 17.5% ABV, 20 year old on average, with BBQ pork ribs. The last Palo was the legendary Apostoles PC from Gonzalez, on average 30 years old, 20% ABV, which was pure butterscotch. It was served with gamay poached foie gras and house smoked ham on toasted brioche. And of course, we re-tasted all three Palos against all three foods. Finally, to end the meal, there was Valdeon blue cheese, with treacle Pedro Ximenez full of toffee, caramel, and dried dark fruits (liquid Christmas cake?). The Downside: the crowd got a little noisy when we got into the lunch part of the presentation. This was understandable since we had a whole pile of sherries. Nobody has yet thought of a graceful way to sip and eat food at the same time without swallowing (i.e., we should spit it all out). Still, some of us needed some manners despite the lively room. The Upside: great Palo Cortados The Contact Person: Nancy 416-620-5474 x 209, or www.sherry.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday October 17, 2006 2 – 6 PM The Event: a tasting of some newly released wines at the FWP Trading offices, Queensway and Royal York (and a tasting of some olive oils). The Target Audience: private clients, wine press, restaurants. The Availability/Catalogue: price lists showed current availability in six packs. The Quote: “Damn good olive oil, especially CARM organic”. I ended up buying the Grande Escolha at $15 for 500 mL. With 1% acid (and organic) it was a bargain. Full and fruity, a bit more aggressive than the CARM Praemium ($16). The Wines: *Bacalhoa sparkling Loridos 2000 (bottled in 2005) Estremadura, MC styled wine half chardonnay and half pinot noir, 12% ABV, lightly aromatic but developed well as the mousse continued. ($18.80) *Esporao Vinha da Defesa White 2005 Alentejo, $15.60, 13.5% ABV, lime tones and pleasant sipper, consider as first course wine. *Bacalhoa Catarina 2004 Setubal, $13.99, was a blend of Fernao Pires and Chardonnay, with bracing acidity, best as a first course wine. *Esporao White Reserve 2004 Alentejo, $19.70, needed time to warm up. *Quinta de Pancas Assemblage 2003 Estremadura, $17, 14% ABV, with touriga nacional, cab sauv, merlot, six months in French and US oak. It had body and warm development, black fruit. Good price. *Quinta de Pancas Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Estremadura, $19.20, 14.5% ABV, 18 months oak, tannins and firm richness, cellar it. *Herdade dos Grous Red 2004 Alentejo, $23.50, 13.5%, with aragones, syrah, alicante bouschet, and touriga nacional, was still hard and tannic. Cellar it. * CARM Reserve 2001 Douro, $35.50, 14% ABV, made with the three touriga varietals as in port, still showed some unusual hardness at this date, and still needed time. * Niepoort Redoma Red 2002 Douro, $47, 13% ABV, was my fave of the afternoon, full of intense fruit and warmth, almost ready. The Food: cold buffet of cod cakes, potato cakes, and other Portuguese specialties and cheeses. The Downside: the weather was dreadful. They were also in the midst of planning for a second floor, and the room had to be cleared, so it was a bit of a tumble. The Upside: nice close quarters, lightly attended when I got there early. The Contact Person: Pedro or Arlindo fwp@winesofportugal.ca www.winesofportugal.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88 5. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 19, 2006 11 AM to 2 PM The Event: Media tasting with Chris Hatcher, Chief Winemaker of Wolf Blass, an interactive luncheon and tasting of new vintages and recently re-aligned colour tiers of wine. There are seven tiers, and all have colours except one. The Venue: The Cookworks, 99 Sudbury Street The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are in the system, some general list, some Vintages, others classics. The Quote: “Price points are pretty close together, but it does make sense to simplify the labels.” The Wines: Chris Hatcher spoke to the wines. The entry levels are Red Labels ($14-15), followed by the Yellow ($16-18), the Gold ($20-30), and the Grey ($32-34). There is also a Black Label ($90 Cabernet Sauvignon) and a Platinum Label ($100 Shiraz). The Wolf Blass Premium Selection ($23-25) have no colour, just a black and white label, and are meant for restaurants (but not exclusively). Gone are the white, beige, brown, blue, green and purple labels. Blass makes 55 wines; their Yellow Label cabernet is the market leaders (800,000 cases). * Red Label Shiraz Cabernet 2005: easy fruit, one of series of blended wines. * Yellow Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: intense cabernet sauvignon nose, smooth cabernet sauvignon flavours. * Premium Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2003: wooded cabernet, strong tones, ready now, great for restaurants. I really enjoyed this wine. * Premium Selection Shiraz 2004: wooded shiraz, dripping with fruit, very enjoyable. * Gold Label Shiraz Viognier 2004 Adelaide Hills: all screwcaps in the Gold line, Rhonish character softened by the viognier. * Gold Label Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley: heavier, smokier, to cellar. * Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Langhorne Creek: cab mint and chocolate tones. Of 8,000 case produced, over a third are sold in Ontario. * Grey Label Shiraz 2003 McLaren Vale: fruity, silky, wood integration. * Black Label Shiraz Cabernet 2001: thick and unctuous, some US oak shows but mainly French oak used, fruity character. The Food: with lunch we had additional wines. The composed salad (beets, buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes) came with Red Label Semillon- Sauvignon Blanc 2005, the rack of lamb was served with Yellow Label Shiraz 2004, and the plum and dried cherry galette accompanied the Gold Label Botrytis Semillon 2004. The Downside: hard to find the Cookworks, and then navigate through the building. The Upside: interactivity at lunch gave us all a corporate bond, as they say. The Contact Person: angela.lyons@am.fostersgroup.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 6. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2 – 5 PM The Event: a tasting of DogRidge wines from McLaren Vale, with Fred Howard, winemaker and owner. The winery is repped in Ontario by Le Sommelier Inc. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, somewhere in downtown Toronto The Target Audience: private clients, wine press The Availability/Catalogue: only a few of the wines are immediately available by consignment; the rest are private orders. The Quote: “It must be Ozzie day, with the Wolf Blass media tasting just a few blocks away”. The Wines: white wines – DogRidge The Pup Sauvignon Blanc 2005, $20.95 retail, a sort of entry level with good body. * DogRidge The Pup Unwooden Chardonnay 2005, $20.95 retail: full and generous tones. * DogRidge WV McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2005, consignment, $29.45, one- third oaked, more generous fruit from grapes grafted on to 100 year old grenache root stock. My fave white of the tasting. * DogRidge The Pup Cabernet Merlot 2004, $20.95 retail, useful entry level. * DogRidge Wylpena Merlot 2003, $29.45, 14% ABV but fairly interesting merlot. * DogRidge Cadenaza Grenache 2005, $29.45 retail, from vines planted in the 1940s, but not your French grenache in taste. * DogRidge DV3 Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, $42 retail, showed intense fruit but still needs cellaring time. * DogRidge DV7 Shiraz 2003, $42 retail: the beauty of the show, intensely fragrant fruit, still needing time. Multiple award winner in Australia. Also available as a magnum, jeroboam, and imperial (6 litre bottle) by special order. The Food: basic cheese tray with some spicy sausages. The Downside: it was a bit crowded for the small space, but... The Upside: ...it was nice to see that many people came out. The Contact Person: bernard.stramwasser@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 7. The Time and Date: Monday, October 23, 2006 2:30 Pm to 5 PM The Event: Port and Douro Wines Tasting 2006 The Venue: Le Meridien King Edward Hotel, Vanity Fair Ballroom The Target Audience: restaurants, private customers, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: as always, some wines never arrived, some producers never arrived, and some other wines mysteriously appeared. But the show catalogue had a range of general and Vintage products, all with prices, years, and CSPC. That was very good, and it made my life easier. The Quote: “This year marks the 250th anniversary of the Demarcated Region of the Douro.” The Wines: I did not taste everything, but instead concentrated on red table wines and tawnies. I especially liked – *Sogrape Douro Callabriga 2003 ($18.95, Vintages), very firm but delightful fruit showing (hot vintage year). *Ferreira Douro Quinta de Leda 2004 ($39.95, private order from Authentic), good depth to the finish. *Ramos Pinto Duas Douro Quintas Reserva 2001 ($39.95, Vintages), full and rich, vanilla. *Quinta do Roriz Vinhos Douro Prazo de Roriz 2005 ($19.95, +590547) showed both ripe and full tones. *Quinta do Infantado Douro Estate 2003 ($21.95, Vintages) was fruity from the hot year. *Quinta de Ventozelo Douro (B&W Wines) showed three varietal wines. Their Touriga Nacional 2003 ($19.95, consignment) had soft fruit, their Tinta Roriz 2001 ($19.95, Vintages) was a bit more coarse, and the Touriga Franca 2003 ($21.95, private order) was more refined and elegant. A good trio to taste, and one of the delights of the show. The table was always crowded. Tawnies: Warre’s Otima Tawny 20 years old (500 mL, $39.95, Vintages) drew much acclaim from the tasters (the 10 year old on general list at $21.95 for the half-litre was no slouch either); Calem 20 year old (Woodman) was thick and fruity; the “century of port” at Whitehall was terrific: Taylor Fladgate’s 10, 20, 30, and 40 year old ports are variously available in the Vintages and Classics system, ranging from $33.95 to $239 – I enjoyed the 20 year old best, in terms of flavour plus value ($67.95); Fonseca Tawny 20 years old ($34.95, Vintages) also hit the spot price wise. Colheitas: these were in short supply, but outstanding was Pocas Colheita 1988 (only $30 at Vintages), and Dow’s Colheita 1994 ($33.95, Vintages). The Food: sausages and Portuguese cheeses, breads, other nibbles. The Downside: it seemed like a small show. The Upside: most people I talked to were enthusiastic, and the hot 2003 year should bring some promise to the marketing and sales of table wines. The Contact Person: Cohn & Wolfe Montreal, 514-845-2257 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 8. The Time and Date: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 6:30 PM onwards The Event: Winemaker’s Dinner: fourth in a series from Stoney Ridge The Venue: the Print Room of Truffles, Four Seasons Hotel The Target Audience: wine media and private clients The Availability/Catalogue: part of the dinner was to introduce the new Winemaker’s Reserve Wines, here the Cabernet Franc 2004, limited edition, ultra premium, aged for two years in oak. Winemaker Liubomir Popovici spoke to all of the wines, which included some future releases. The Quote: “Some of the wines here are simply not yet available until early 2007 – some are just babies at this point”. The Wines: we began with a reception, little inviting finger foods to accompany the unoaked Charlotte’s Chardonnay 2003 ($24.95, lush and plush, braced with tropical fruit and a citric leanness). This was followed by the Proprietor’s Reserve Sparkling Wine 2005 ($34.95, to be released in March 2007 unfortunately missing the Valentine season, Kew Vineyard, 50% young vines of Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, bottled January 2006, biscuit nose and tiny bubbles reflective of the traditional method). The Founders Pinot Noir 2004 ($42.95) was sold out, but the 2005 will be in the spring. The 2004 had some juicy complexity, 13 ABV, and showed its strength by complementing the next two dishes! The Reserve Chardonnay 2005 Old Vines ($24.95) was not yet ready. It needed time to age, it was a bit out-of-balance, with definite French oak and clove tones. You cannot get it until next Spring anyway, so it will have a chance to improve. The first in a series of Winemaker’s Reserve wines went to Cabernet Franc 2004, from the Wismer Vineyard. It is certainly tight at this stage, but looks promising for delivering tamed down leafiness. The Gewurztraminer Icewine 1999 ($59.95) had been barrel aged for two years, which gave it a certain unique complexity and somewhat smoothed out the spiciness. The Food: Chef Laura Kirk prepared the five course meal and spoke to the dishes. The cauliflower veloute with the sparkler was dead on, as was the roast squab and foie gras ravioli with the pinot. The peppered monkfish came with the chardonnay, but was also appropriate with the pinot. The pinot was also good with truffle braised short ribs, although the cabernet franc was outstanding here. For dessert, we had a vanilla panna cotta which was a bit overwhelmed by the icewine. The Downside: you’ll have to wait for the wines, except for Charlotte and the Gewurztraminer, but the wait will be worth it. The Upside: it was indeed a treat to test drive some wines before their nominal release date, and I wish more wineries would do this. The Contact Person: Art Coles acoles@stoneyridge.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 9. The Time and Date: Thursday, October 26, 2006 6 PM onwards The Event: Wildlife Preservation Canada’s 12th annual charity dinner and auction. The Venue: Arcadian Court, Simpson Tower. The Target Audience: environmentalists who contribute to charities The Availability/Catalogue: there was a catalogue for the auction and for the silent auction. I even seized the moment and bid in both (I won one of my three silent auction choices). The Quote: “You know, I actually think that the basic French Rabbit cabernet sauvignon is better than the Reserve line, even though the price is cheaper”. The Wines: Corby’s bought a table and donated two litres of wine for each table (one merlot and one chardonnay) The Food: fresh salad, prime ribs, lemon custard meringues. The Downside: I was hoping that more people would arrive, to stir the pot in the auctions. The Upside: I donated some books and bought some opera glasses. The Contact Person: Alec Munro admin@wildlifepreservation.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – FROM THE DEAN’S LIST: ==================== With so many spurious doctors chiming into wine writing these days, maybe the teaching profession should also be added for at least some authenticity – not only is Dean my real name, but I was once an academic dean for a short period… Most wine writers mark and grade their wines. Indeed, Jancis Robinson makes a distinction between a wine writer (one who writes about wine) and a wine critic (one who tastes and grades, buy may also write about the results). My wine notes, trade events notes, and book reviews all have a quality for dollar measure of some effectiveness in the grade. It is natural for an educator like me to impose numerical ratings and rankings. For trade events, I ask around through a wide variety of participants (both during and after the function) for their thoughts on the showcase features. I roll this into my quotes and into my overall grade. After all, trade events are to get the trade to promote wines to the consumer, to get the consumer to buy as much as possible of whatever the event is “selling”. Its effectiveness is a measure of that marketing skill, and gives meaning to the phrase “to be wined and dined”… Remember, it's not hard to be a wine writer. One just has to have opinions about wines and find someone to pay for those opinions. One also has to recognize that there's nothing really free, and that wine samples, trips, invites and parties serve a purpose: ultimately, in Ontario, it's a wine writer's job in association with the industry partners to sell wine. My decanal job is a bit shorter this month because I was babysitting away from Toronto, Sept 27 through Oct 10. It is amazing that I actually had 14 events to go to over that period – and I missed them all… WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SEPTEMBER 2006 ========================================= By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 6, 2006, midday 2 – 5PM The Event: Wine Australia VIP preview tasting of a collection of Australian wines selected from the Sept 27 “Uncover Australia” show. The Venue: Crush Wine Bar on King Street West The Target Audience: wine press and media The Availability/Catalogue: there were 51 wines, grouped into four categories, reflecting the marketplace. First up were the “Brand Champions” (all General Listed items), followed by “Regional Heroes”, a group of mid-range wines from different places in Australia. Then came “Generation Next”, a series of new blends or new varieties. Last up was “Iconic Australia”, which were mostly expensive wines. The last three categories had different availability (Private orders, Consignment, Vintages, and Classics). The Quote: Australia is the number two import wine category in Ontario, with over 1.65 million 9 L cases. It is the third largest import wine category in Canada at large. The Wines: these were my faves, overall – * Nugan Estate Riverina SA Cookoothama Shiraz 2004 General List, +619460, $13.95: strong intense aroma, good shiraz taste at this price level, good food finish, twist top. 14% alcohol. * DeBortoli SEA Deen Vat 9 Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 General List, +17467, $14.95: 13.5% alcohol, good cabby MVC hit, good with the cheeses here today. * Wakefield SA Promised Land Shiraz Cabernet 2004 General List, +625343, $14.95: 14.5% alcohol, twist top, medium body but intense flavours and perfumes. * Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Shiraz 2004 General List, +611496, $19.95: 14.5% alcohol, good long length, great flavours, dense character. * Leasingham Clare Valley Bin 61 Shiraz 2002 Vintages: 14% alcohol, syrah-type flavours with a long finish in Euro mode. * Margan Wines Hunter Valley NSW Shiraz 2004: 13.5% alcohol, rich, long toothy finish, closer to syrah. * Rymill Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $24.85: 14% alcohol. Good broad finish, some definite taste of aging process, longer length, good for food and restaurants. * DeBortoli Riverina NSW Deen Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2004, $14.95: 13.5% alcohol, very much in character, nice petit verdot feel, leans to Bordeaux in intensity and nose. * Thorn-Clarke Barossa Shotfire Ridge Quartage 2004, Vintages May 2007 (!), $27 est.: 14% alcohol, Bordeaux blend of cabbies, malbec, merlot, and PV. Good consistency. Trophy winner. * Jacob’s Creek Barossa Valley Centenary Hill Shiraz 1997, $35.95: 13.5% alcohol, juicy, oaky, fully ripe and complex. Restaurant-ready, a great wine for balance of fruit-wood-acid. * Penfolds SA St.Henri Shiraz 2001, +510875, $54: 14.5% alcohol, tannic finish but dense and concentrated style, all the fruit is there, developing nicely, needs cellaring. * Wakefield Clare Valley St.Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $50: 14.5% alcohol, delicious intensity, a finished wine, ready soon. Needed – and got – cheese. * Lindeman’s Coonawarra St.George Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, +353581, $49.95: 13.5% alcohol, but still a battle of the two saints (see above entry for Wakefield). Very close together in taste, a bit more minty for the St. George, and it is almost ready too. The Food: great French cheeses, ripened to perfection The Downside: there was not enough time to taste all the wines in their complexities. I began with the whites and then worked backwards from Icons to Brands. The Upside: it was almost a speed dating concept, with sit down positions available opposite the wines. We just moved along. The Contact Person: monica.ralphs@wineaustralia.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday September 12, 2006, 1 – 4 PM midday The Event: a tasting of Weingut von Othegraven Mosel-Saar Rieslings. Owner Dr. Heidi Kegel, a direct descendent of the 16th century founder Max, and her husband Karl attended to answer questions at this informal drop-in. They only make Rieslings from grand cru vineyards in the Saar, specifically, only Kanzem Altenberg, Ockfen Bockstein, and Wiltingen Kupp. The Venue: LCBO Summerhill-Scrivener Square The Target Audience: the wine press and select customers of the agent, Ne Plus Ultra Agency. The Availability/Catalogue: scattered – some in Vintages, some private, some Classics, some not at all (the fabulous 1976 Kanzemer Berg Riesling Auslese with some marmalade complexity but great riesling character). There are a variety of riesling vintages and sugar levels for all three vineyards still available. Contact the agency, prices range from $29 through $198. The Quote: Ne Plus Ultra got 15% of the company’s Altenberg Riesling Auslese 2003 for Ontario; it garnered a 93 in the Wine Spectator, and will be at Classics in November. Big, rich and showy, 9.3% alcohol, +8557, $43. The Wines: we sampled – * 2004 Kanzem Altenberg Riesling, $36: This was full, ripe, and incredibly delicious. It was a riesling auslese fermented to trocken levels, 12% alcohol. * 2005 Von Othegraven Riesling Feinherb, $19.25: drier with a riesling hit. More food friendly. * 2004 Von Othegraven Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, Vintages, $18.95: 35 cases left, classic slate and lime zest, lively and stylish. * 2005 Von Othegraven Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, $21.15, more off-dry. * 2005 Kanzem Altenberg Riesling Spatlese, $33: ripe and full, delicious, a big wine, my fave of those available for purchase. The Food: selected cheeses and dips The Contact Person: for private orders, Michael Donohue, mdonohue123@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 3. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2006, 11 AM to 1 PM The Event: Media/LCBO preview tasting of the Chile trade/consumer shows, October 4. The Venue: Boiler House Restaurant in the Distillery District The Target Audience: wine press The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines were to be at the show, but the wines tasted today are available for purchase through Vintages, General List, Consignment, or private order. The Quote: 59 wines were tasted blind. We knew the grape variety, but not the wine labels. After everybody was revealed, I could see that my absolute favourite overall agency was Connexion Oenophilia: all four of the wines were excellent. The Wines: some of my faves – * Vina Tabali Chardonnay Reserva Especial 2005 Limari: new wood oak character dominates, higher acid, best with food. +663005V, $18.95. * Vina Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay Cuvee Alexandre 2004 Casablanca: broad buttery complexity, good palate on top of mouth. +947937V, $26.95. * Vina Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2003 Colchagua: new wood, some unresolved tannins, needs time for a shine to come forth. +723676V, $95. * Vina Carmen Grand Vidure? 60% carmenere, 40% cabernet, Reserve 2004 Maipo: clean and brisk, food wine with a slight bitter finish, some mint. +439166GL, $16.95. * Vina Tabali Shiraz Reserva 2004 Limari: a sipper with great MVC, expressive. +662692V, $16.95. * Vina Perez Cruz Syrah Reserva Limited Edition 2004 Maipo: dynamite Euro syrah character with some black fleshiness. +589812V, $24.95. * Vina MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005 Colchagua: good development, long lovely finish, great wine for the price. +619205GL, $11.95. * Vina Luis Felipe Edwards Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2005 Colchagua: good body and MVC cabernet qualities, long draw in the finish. From PMA at $17. * Vina Cousino Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Antiguas Reservas 2003 Maipo: some aging showing, god intensity. +212993GL, $14.95. * Vina Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Manso de Valasco 2001 Curico: elegant but pricey (when revealed). +719716V, $39. * Vina Altair Red Blend Altair 2003 Cachapoal: elegance in a Euro sense, but you’ll also needs Euros. Connexion Oenophilia Consignment $65. * Vina Altair Red Blend Sideral 2003 Rapel: a better priced wine for the elegance. +660837, $39. * Vina Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005 Maipo: great taste for the price, ready soonish. +694208, $14.95. * Vina Sena Cabernet Sauvignon Arboleda 2002 Maipo: soft, off-dry, almost merlot-like but some mintiness. Very useful. +606764, $17.95. The Food: light lunch of upscale sandwiches and salads. The Downside: we couldn’t linger over the wines. The Upside: we could taste them all while seated and without people talking at us. The Contact Person: Sandy Kurbis -- sandy@forefrontcom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2006, 1 PM through 3 PM The Event: Vertical tasting of Bouchard Pere & Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot The Venue: Kultura Social Dining on King Street East The Target Audience: wine press and private clients of the agents, Woodman Wines and Spirits. The Availability/Catalogue: seven different vintages were covered, from 2004 back through 1976. Luc Bouchard came over from France to lead the tasting. Volnay Caillerets was the first vineyard purchased by the Bouchard family in 1775. The Quote: “Superb notes from Luc, great tasting, and first time in a long time that we’ve had a Burgundy vertical in Toronto.” The Wines: the themes are finesse, elegance and grace. The 2004 is the currently available vintage, not yet ready of course, but the cherries and beetroots are there, as well as a hot finish. Expect $64 a bottle. The 2003 reflected the ripe and warm vintage, but is also developing well. 2002 showed underbrush. 2000 was juicy and ripe. 1999 was straightforward. 1990 seemed a bit sweet, perhaps lacking some acid. 1985 tasted just old, which I like anyway. The 1976 was glorious, a ripe pinot in its prime, and my fave of the tasting. The Food: an assortment of rare, ripe cheeses from Burgundy. The Contact Person: Russ or Jason Woodman at info@woodmanwinesandspirits.com Availability is variable. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2006, 6 PM to 9 PM The Event: to celebrate the first anniversary of French Rabbit plus an announcement from owner Boisset about a new wine. The Venue: Mariposa Belle, Queen’s Quay, plus a harbour tour. The Target Audience: wine media, opinion makers, LCBO personnel. The Availability/Catalogue: General List items, red and white Tetra Prisma paks. The Quote: “All the heavies are out: Bob Peter, Jean-Charles Boisset. Must be important stuff here”. Authentic agency (D. Hobbs) and M. Boisset jointly announced a one litre Tetra Prisma pak of Beaujolais AOC, a vintage dated wine shipped but bottled (paked?) at the new Lanpak facility in Richmond Hill ($13.95 GL). The announcement was made just as we were docking, after the tour of the waterfront. The Wines: Tasted were tetra paks of “Family Reserve” red and white French Rabbit. The red is a mix of syrah, merlot, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, and mourvedre, aged in French oak. The white is a mix of chardonnay, viognier, sauvignon blanc, marsanne, rousanne, and muscat. Both are useful quaffers from Corby; I liked the white reserve better than the red. This was my (and other wine writers) third tasting of the day. The Food: mostly from Marc Thuet, emphasizing French bistro food and breads as accompaniments to French Rabbits. There was a cheese buffet and a risotto line. Unfortunately, no rabbit was available. The Downside: we were captive for three plus hours… The Upside: there were washrooms, and the food-wine experience was worth the trip. The Contact Person: Jane Holland at Lewis Carroll Communications info@lewiscarrollcom.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 6. The Time and Date: Monday September 18, 2006, 1:30 PM to 3 PM The Event: Tasting of a range of Concha y Toro wines, from Chile. We were led by Marcelo Papa, the chief winemaker. The Venue: Nineteenth Floor, Fairmont Royal York The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines are available through the General List (for the Casillero del Diablo series), or through Vintages (for the Marques de Casa Concha series). At the reception we had a range of the company’s Frontera wines in magnums (chardonnay, cabernet merlot, and syrah). The Quote: “Nine million cases of Concha y Toro are exported; 25% of our revenue is local to Chile (mostly tetra paks)”. The Wines: * Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 2005: mostly Casablanca fruit, the 2006 (which we also sampled) showed good freshness and herbs, a little more acidic and brisk, twist top used. General List, $12.45. * Casillero del Diablo Merlot 2005: 85% merlot, mostly from Rapel. Soft and plummy, good sipper or party drink. General List, $12.45. * Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 2005: more tannic than the merlot, deeper and darker, hot finish, took time to open. Most of the reds in the Casillero line are aged 70% in small US oak and 30% in stainless steel for 8 months. $12.45. * Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2005: great aromatic nose, 100% aged in US oak for 8 months. Peppery but mellow, aging nicely, full and ripe, leans to French syrah MVC. * Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: we had four samples. This wine comes from three valleys (41% Maipo, 31% Rapel, and 28% Maule) and we had samples from each plus the final blend. The Maipo was soft with some anise, the Rapel was harder, and the Maule seemed to contribute a bit of coconut. 1.1 million cases are made and mostly exported – it has the distinction of being the best wine for the largest volume at that price level. $12.45. * Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2005: flowery but lean in an Euro mode, some cloves and food is needed. As it warmed up in the glass, the length showed more oak. 15,000 cases made. $18.95 at Vintages in March 2007. * Marques de Casa Concha Merlot 2004: anise and cassis from 50 year old vines, hot finish, needs food. 17 months in French oak. $18.95 March 2007 Vintages. There is a Syrah, same price and same time frame for release, but the bottles were “lost in transit”. This was a major disappointment for me since I liked the Casillero Shiraz and was looking forward to tasting a sort of “reserve” level version. * Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: now a standard in Ontario, good value for plumminess and soft tannins, essentially still a food wine. 5% petit verdot added. $18.95 Vintages Essential. The Food: crackers and water. The Downside: most of us got there early, but we still had to wait in a tiny reception area. The Upside: Papa was a good speaker. He even handled marketing questions (even though there were two marketing people from Chile in the room). The Contact Person: Josephine Meessen meessen@selectwines.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 86. 7. The Time and Date: Monday September 25, 2006 Noon The Event: an Italian wine tasting showcasing Carriage Trade Wines and Spirits expanded portfolio. The wines offered came from Los Angeles Srl, operated by Francesco Candela. The North American rep, Dean Gronkiewicz, came up from NYC to lead the tasting and answer queries. The Venue: Sette Mezzo, 936 Eglinton Ave West The Target Audience: wine press, prime trade purchasers. The Availability/Catalogue: currently, the wines are a mix of consignment and private orders. The Quote: ”The tasting was arranged by the exhausting Szabo and Szabo team, who are seemingly everywhere”. The Wines: * Cantini di Montecchia Veneto Pinot Grigio 2005, $11.95 by consignment, was off-dry, not the usual acidic hit that many Italian PGs have. The 2004 was also sampled; it was drier. * CCHIA Soave Superiore 2003, $13.95 was straight-forward. * Monte Lessini Bianco 2004, $18.25, was a revelation, good grip, nicely oaked and balanced, aged okay, nice price. * CCHIA Valpolicella 2004, $12.95, showed some unusual chocolate and cherry tones. * Cantina Vignaiolo Astibarbera Berengarium Barbera D’Asti Superiore 2003, $16.95, was very fruity for the year, of course, slightly bitter on the finish. * Vignaiolo Aurelius Barolo 2001, $39.95, a lighter style, almost ready, suitable for restaurants. * Azienda Agricola Salustri Montecucco Tuscany is an organic winery. Its Marleo Rosso 2004 seemed uncommonly good ($21.95, off-dry cherries). Its Santa Marta Sangiovese 2003 garnered a 92 in the Wine Spectator ($30) but it was also an atypical vintage. Its Grotte Rosso Sangiovese 2002 ($44.95), very pinot noir-like, good finishing tang, lighter in complexity, comes from pre-phyloxera vines and their descendants – which managed to have survived. * Angelicus Scopetani Chianti 2004 was my fave of the tasting, particularly since it was only $12.50 but showed amazing depth and finish. The winery’s Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2004 is also a good buy at $10.95, and could be a good house wine. Its Chianti Rufina 2004 ($16) showed good aging possibility. * Cantina I Vini di Maremma Bliss Giallo Sangiovese 2005, $16.50 Consignment, was actually too young at this point with tartness and tannins in the finish. * Canonica de Cerrito Chianti Classico Reserva 2003 ($24.95) needed – and got – some cheese to complement its flavours. Its Sandiavola 2003 ($30) was an under priced super Tuscan, worthy of its Gambrero Rosso five stars. Excellent price point for a restaurant’s wine card. The Food: trattoria food, served family style – plenty of antipasti (bruschetta, sausages), gnocchi, chicken breasts, mushroom risotto, salads, cheeses. Mostly great with the wines. The Downside: this is personal – I had three tastings this day The Upside: this was a first wine portfolio tasting for Hugh Sutherland of Carriage Trade. The Contact Person: carriagetradewines@netzero.net The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 8. The Time and Date: Monday September 25 2006 2-4:30 PM The Event: something unusual, a TWO agency winemakers’ tasting, from the Mani Agency and Iberowine Canada, combining some Italian, Spanish and Australian wine. The Venue: Embrujo Flamenco Wine and Tapas Restaurant, 97 Danforth Avenue. The Target Audience: wine press and wine trade clients. There was to be a dinner later that night with winemakers Miguel Merino of Rioja, and Roberto Robba of Piedmont’s Balbi Soprani. The Availability/Catalogue: consignment. The Quote: ”Interesting wines, if eclectic in presentation” The Wines: Through Mani, * Balbi Soprani La Baudria 2003 Barbera d’Asti 2003, $14.95 licensee, single vineyard, soft and black fruity, 13.5% alcohol. * Balbi Soprani Barbaresco 2003, $23.20 licensee, 13.5%, from an atypical vintage, soft and fruit forward, ready sooner rather than later, but this is good for restaurants. * Balbi Soprani Barolo 2001, $34.95 licensee, some anise, tight but good price, useful with heavier food, 14% alcohol. * Sanguine Estate Heathcote Shiraz 2004, black fruit, very close to syrah, French oak aging for ML and 12 months, some mint showing, well- rounded and balanced. The winery only makes shiraz, and started with this grape with the 2000 vintage. It regularly scores in the 90s. Also on offer was Progeny 2004, a brighter, lighter, faster maturing shiraz. From Iberowine Canada (iberowine.imports@rogers.com), * Bodega Miguel Merino Cantiga Crianza 2003 Rioja, $16 consignment, 13 months French and US oak, 13.4% alcohol. Some coconut on those nose, off-dry in texture (probably because of the vintage), and berries all round. * Bodega Miguel Merino Reserva 1998 ($36 consignment) was delicious, a bit light but endearing, needed more time for its age to show, surprisingly still black and red fruity and ripe. The Gran Reserva 1995 is the highlight ($49 consignment). The company made its first vintage in 1994. The 1995 is still not ready to my palate, but showed deep intensity and purity of expression, coffee and mocha tones (which does indicate that it is physically ready to drink at its prime. The Food: both regular and Spanish cheeses were offered. Also offered was some Calabrian Vecchio Amaro del Capo ($31.50 700 mL licensee price) which hit the spot as a bitter. The Downside: I had to crowd this one in between two other tastings. The Upside: individual contact with agents and winemakers. The Contact Person: philip.wharton@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 9. The Time and Date: Monday September 25, 2006 at 6 PM The Event: Ontario Wine Society monthly tasting, this time a variety of red wines plus two whites at reception. The Venue: Ontario Club, Commerce Court South. The Target Audience: members, wine press, new consumers. The Availability/Catalogue: Wine writer Ed Finstein led the tasting – we were told what the grapes were but not the specific label nor vintage. Nine VQA red wines were tasted, all under cork, three each from Reif Estate, Pelee Island Winery, and DeSousa Wine Cellars. Finstein spoke on some lengthy in-depth tasting notes. There were two reception wines, Reif Estate Late Harvest Gewurztraminer (terrific, with a slightly bitter finish, good concentrated body) and DeSousa Wine Cellars Semi-Dry Riesling (showing MVC Germanic character). The Quote: “Fin is a really entertaining speaker: he should go on the road”. The Wines: we had 7 wines with names plus 2 mystery wines… *Reif Pinot Noir First Growth 2001, $50 at the winery, 8 bottles left. My first choice for wine of the night, fragrant, quite attractive nose, off-dry, age showing nicely, good wood, still needs time to balance out, changed in the glass, earthy, not typical pinot but pinot nevertheless, French and US oak. I guessed it correctly: no brainer. * Pelee Island Merlot 2005, $9.50, tannic nose, aromatic berries, light sipper. I nailed it, also easy to do. * Reif Shiraz 2004, $16.95 Vintages, tannic, mild wood, seductive nose, light food wine. I missed it because it did not taste like shiraz nor syrah. There was no MVC. * Pelee Island Baco Noir 2005, $9.90, one of my top three wines, tight, taut nose, still closed, but elegant and long lasting, good bracing acid, smoke, some wood and rusticity, spicy. Finstein said some dill. I correctly identified this wine. * DeSousa Marechal Foch 2004, $9.95, some swampiness and vegetative character, not unpleasant, earthy, raisiny, black fruit, underbrush. I nailed this wine. * Reif Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $23.95, caramel on the nose, slight heat, black cherries and cassis (much later), hot finish, mushrooms. I missed this, no initial MVC. 60% French oak, rest US. * Mystery Wine #1: Reif Shiraz 2004, $16.95 Vintages, same wine as above, light oaking, aromatic, quite pleasant nose, okay sipper or fooder. I missed this because it differed slightly from the wine above (bottle variation), had more pepper in it (and my table mate agreed). It was one of my top three wines (the other shiraz would have been wine #4). Still no MVC for shiraz or syrah. But my initial notes were closely related. Other than that, I had no excuses beyond this being 7:30 PM after two other wine tastings this day (see above). * Pelee Island Cabernet Franc 2005, $10.90, veggies nose, hot, leafy, bell peppers, instant MVC, needs time to open up. I nailed this wine. * DeSousa Port 2002, $22, another no brainer for a Mystery Wine, seeing as how DeSousa was in the mix. Sweet chocolate, vintage style port, from Touriga Nacional grapes. The Food: Ontario Club provided a range of club food (cheese, liverwurst, meatballs, deep fried veggies). The Downside: a fairly light attendance, say about 65 people. The Upside: for once, plastic pencils were provided. This eliminated any contamination of odours from “pencil shavings” or “cedar”, which affects professional tastings of red wines. The Contact Person: tastings coming up involve an Ontario Riesling vs. German Riesling shootout, Icewine weekend, new wineries, trip to Niagara next June, et al. Check out www.ontariowinesociety.com, or OWSMarketing@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 10. The Time and Date: Tuesday September 26 2006 2:30 to 5 PM The Event: G7 Portugal Wine Tasting – seven wine producers of Portugal The Venue: JK at the Gardiner Museum The Target Audience: wine press, wine clubs, wine trade, private buyers. The Availability/Catalogue: varies with agency and producer, but there was a representation from the GL, Vintages, Consignment and Private Order. The Quote: “Well, the soup was a great idea but putting it in the same room as the wines was not: there was a distinct whiff and similarity to an apartment hallway at dinner time”. The Wines: I did not taste all the wines as there were about 49 of them. Here were my faves of the afternoon: * Alianca Foral Grande Eschola Douro 2003, with tinta roriz, tinta barroca, and touriga nacional, had a great finish and was already showing sings of being aged and ready now, from that hot year. $12.95 retail PMA Canada. * Quinta das Baceladas Bairrada 2003, 14.5% alcohol, from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and baga varieties, was a distinguished wine, not in the typical NA style. $21.95 retail PMA Canada. * Quinta da Terrugem Alentejo 2004, 14.5% alcohol, from aragones and trincadeira traditional varieties, had a soft approach but a hard and hot finish, but the quality was all there. $20 PMA Canada. * Aveleda Alvarinho 2005, 13% alcohol, was a white fave of mine, full of dynamic floral flavours. Maxxium. * Quinta da Aguiera Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Bairrada, 13%, was oak aged, and this added a certain quality. Maxxium. * Tinto da Anfora Grande Escolha 2003, 14.5%, with local varieties aragonez, alicante bouschet and tour. nacional, was a gold medalist. It was great density on the palate, super concentrated, wood tones, yet already approachable. FWP Consignment. * Quinta da Bacalhoa 2003 showed excellent quality. FWP Consignment. * Palacio da Bacalhoa 2003, 14% alcohol, was a traditional Bordeaux blend (cab, merlot, PV) and it was nicely served and framed. FWP Consignment. * Esporao White Reserve 2005, 14% from local indigenous white varieties, was rich and creamy, spicy oak tones. $19.70 FWP Consignment. * Monte Velho Red 2005, 13%, from indigenous red grapes, was fresh and fruity. $12 FWP Consignment. * Periquita Classico 2001, 14%, unfiltered, a sort of “reserve” bottling, 100% castelao. $26.95 Philippe Dandurand. * Douro Messias Grande Eschola 2005, 13%, made from 4 red grapes (franca, nacional, roriz, barroca) turned out to be an easy drinking sipper, while the Quinta do Cachao 2004, 14.5%, was tighter wound, more taut, but with fruit shining through. Same grape varieties. Both from Signature Wines and Spirits. The Food: caldo verde in huge, ungainly bowls, with spoons which could not handle the coarsely chopped strings of greens. The soup tasted fabulous, though you could smell it throughout the square room. Excellent cheeses a point. Diverse hors d’oeuvre on platters were served by waitstaff. The Downside: it was difficult to eat soup, make notes, talk, and taste. It took two hands for the soup. Also, the tables were really crowded, with few people moving backwards. The Upside: a great cross-section of where Portuguese wines are today. The balcony-deck was open so we could move around outside. The Contact Person: william.delgado@icep.pt The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 11. The Time and Date: Tuesday September 26 2006 7 PM to midnight The Event: G7 Portugal Winemakers’ Dinner The Venue: Chiado, College Street The Target Audience: wine press and invitees. I was at the Maxxium table. The Availability/Catalogue: a selection of wines from the G7 catalogues, to highlight each course (and vice versa). Each winemaker spoke to the wines. The Quote: “Awesome food at Chiado, perfectly matched by the wines”. The Wines and the Food: most of the time at these tastings the point is to get the wine press or trade person to see the food and wine matching success, plus the quality of the wine and the food. Usually, this means a glass or two of wine with each course. To speed up the procedure, we had three main courses with six entrees, two on each plate as samples. We began with hors d’oeuvre of rissoles, cod quenelles, cured ham on corn toast, salmon tartare on a spoon (with smoked sesame oil), accompanied by the Avelada Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2005, one of the more virile forms of VV. This was a stand up, mill about part of the evening. We sat down with corn bread, olives, and fresh cheese. The rest of the wines were all reds. The first main was a grilled tiger shrimp with piri piri assorda cake (it was only lightly spiced), and on the other side of the plate there was a sea scallop with pancetta pieces, orange and fennel sauce, on a bed of dried puree of peas. Wines were Quinta do Valdoeiro Reserva Bairrada 2003 (pleasantly light and tart for the seafood) and FSF Terras do Sado 2001, one of my faves for the night, woodsy but went well with the seafood. Next up was a slab of Nova Scotia black cod with a porcini crust and a fava bean quenelle. On the other side of the wide plate there was a monk fish wrapped in presunto, with a light honey-mustard piri piri glaze and esparregado. Here the wines were Tinto da Anfora Grande Escolha Alentejo 2003 and Esporao Private Selection Alentejo 2003, both slightly off-dry from the hot vintage. The third main was a pan roasted breast of duck with sun dried figs, sweet potato and almonds on one side, and beef tenderloin with wild mushroom risotto on the other side. Quinta dos Quatro Ventos Douro Reserva 2002 and Quinta da Leda Douro 2004 were shown off. The cheese plate had lourais and azeitao, along with pecans and figs and Porto Messias 10 Years Old (tawny, great dry finish) and Porto Ferreira LBV 1999. For desert, they tell me that ginger bread and a Madeira poached Anjou pear cake with a white chocolate crème anglaise was served, along with Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setubal 1997 and Alambre Moscatel de Setubal 20 Years Old, both different from the show wines. With coffee and tea there was Adega Velha brandy. The Downside: I had to leave after the cheeses, to get some sleep before leaving first thing in the morning. The Upside: a chance to speak with some of the producers and winemakers, away from the pouring tables. The Contact Person: william.delgado@icep.pt The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR SUMMER 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Thursday July 6, 2006, 6 PM The Event: hard opening of 5th Elementt, 1033 Bay Street (just north of Wellesley). The Venue: the dining lounge of the resto The Target Audience: opinion makers, local friends, the usual opening crowds. The Availability/Catalogue: the opening dealt with expertise in catering and functions (wedding receptions, cocktail parties, corporate events). It is one of the TIFF venues. The Quote: “The resto is advertised as part of the Yorkville neighbourhood? I don’t think so…” The Wines: at the opening we had samples of Peninsula Ridge Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc (current vintages, both food friendly on the dry lemony side), Henry of Pelham Catherine Sparkling Rose (probably the best Ontario rose sparkler), and Stoney Ridge Cabernet Franc 2004 (a bit on the juicy side, but welcome as an aperitif sipper). The Food: specializing in Indian and Mediterranean flavours, such as Goan style steak, coriander crusted halibut, cider brined pork ribs, vegetarian specialties, all from Chef Johnee S. and owner Vijay Karumanchi. We had the usual array of plated appetizers, here including paneers, succulent butter chicken, various purses and quiches. The Downside: as always, openings are crowded and noisy, like many consumer wine events. The Upside: great weather on the patio. And kudos to the restaurant for simply serving just Ontario wines. The Contact Person: www.5thelementt.com or www.szaboandszabo.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84. 2. The Time and Date: Thursday August 10 2006, 6 PM The Event: media launch for The Taste of the Danforth The Venue: Myth Restaurant The Target Audience: media people and local workers The Quote: “Where was the Greek wine at this (largely) Greek event?” The Wines: Philippe Dandurand donated the wines for the event. These included Sutter Home Chardonnay 2004 and Merlot 2004, both from California and both basic quaffers in the light off-dry style of North America. From the Old World, there was Kressman Solo Viognier 2005 and Solo Shiraz 2004, both newly released Pays D’Oc wines, and both youthful but dryish on the finish, good for drinking with food. So I had the Sutter Homes at the beginning, and the Solos with the food. The Food: buffet style, mostly Greek, but there are other restos out there too. So we had contributions from all the participating establishments. The Bamboo sent along General Tao Chicken, Gabby’s had BBQ ribs, Oreilly’s had Irish stew, Mezes sent keffedes, Ouzeri had lamb rosemary pies, Astoria contributed pork souvlaki and kalamari, and Mr. Greek had beef and lamb gyros. There was an equal amount of desserts from all over, including some wonderful Turkish delights. The Downside: you could not wander around with your drink on the stairs. The Upside: it was announced that over the years, the Taste had raised $750,000 for Toronto General Hospital. The Contact Person: Sue Graham-Nutter of Affinity Marketing, 416-407- 4007. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 80: shame about the lack of Greek wines. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday August 17 2006, 11 AM The Event: media launch of the new Wolf Blass Bilyara Reserve line, totally under PET containers. The Venue: SoHo Metropolitan on Wellington Street West. The Target Audience: media, with speeches from Bob Peter of the LCBO and Scott Oliver of Wolf Blass wines and Tracey Mason of Foster’s Wine Estates. The Availability/Catalogue: General Listings, mid-teens in price. The Quote: “It has been hailed as the world’s first full-size unbreakable bottle of premium wine. I guess that this means the plastic wine bottles I found in Europe were not premium wines.” The Wines: Wolf Blass Bilyara Reserve Chardonnay 2005, nicely balanced, and goes with anything (soft but longish finish, subtle oak, bracing lemony acidity); Wolf Blass Bilyara Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, a lot like the popular Yellow Label and the same price, $16.95. There may be other varietals and other sizes in the line. Personally, I think a 1500 mL PET of Bilyara for under $30 would be great. The Food: plated goodies from Sen5es, a never-ending stream of seared tuna, seared lamb, cheeses, and things on a stick (not quite lollipops). The Downside: we were eating and drinking while looking through windows at an exercise and fitness club. They saw us, and we saw them… The Upside: PET containers have been severely tested to withstand alcohol leaching. Still, it is advisable to drink up within a year of bottling. Each bottle has a bottling date on it. The Contact Person: angela.lyons@am.fostersgroup.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 4. The Time and Date: Monday August 28, 2006, 2 PM The Event: A tasting of Greek wines made from Assyrtiko white grapes on Santorini Island, principally by Sigalas Santorini. The tasting was led by John Szabo of Szabo and Szabo; Steve Kriaris of the Kolonaki Group was the importing agent. This was probably the first vertical of white Greek wines ever in Toronto. The Venue: Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Hilton Hotel, Richmond Street West. The Target Audience: media and sommeliers. The Availability/Catalogue: these are consignment wines although some are private order or simply not available. The Quote: “That was a terrific introduction to Greek wines and wine legislation by John Szabo” The Wines: * Gaia Thalassitis 2005, $22.95, 13% alcohol, from a top producer Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. Cool minerality jumps out, as well as some initial anise and vanilla, with a long length for food. * Sigalas Santorini 2005 ($18.95, 14% alcohol: hot, low nose, slightly petillant, more tart in mouth feels, good fresh food wine); 2004 ($19.95, 14% alcohol: hot nose, moderate finish, much like the 2005); 2003 ($21.50, 13.5% alcohol: some oxidation with a brown sugar nose, great body, superb length, nice sipper too, from the hot vintage year); 2002 ($22.50 but no longer available, 13.5% alcohol: some maderization on the nose, but good oxidative component on the taste, nice length. * Sigalas Barrel Aged Santorini 2005 ($27.95 private order, 13.5% alcohol): fermentation in oak barrels, followed by sur lies aging. Fresh oak on the nose and in the taste, will resolve by next year, light colours, little toast. * RED – Sigalas Mavrotragano 2003, $34.50, 14.7% alcohol: classic red wine technique, aged in new French oak for 18 months. New oak is prominent in nosing and on the palate, spicy component like zinfandel or nero d’avola. I suggest zinfandel rather than primitivo because the hot vintage of 2003 makes the wine taste and feel riper. * DESSERT – Sigalas Vinsanto 2003 (70% assyrtiko/30% aidani), $29.95 per 375 mL bottle, 10% alcohol: sun-dried grapes aged in French oak barrels for 24 months, quite similar to the Italian version. This one has more sweetness than it does length. The Food: Greek cheeses and olives, plus sea scallops with lemon cream for the white table wines. The Downside: we started late and finished late. The Upside: we all sat at a long boardroom table, perfectly acceptable for groups at a typical Greek taverna. The Contact Person: steve.kriaris@kolonakigroup.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday August 29, 2006, noon. The Event: Portfolio tasting of The Merchant Vintner The Venue: world headquarters’ offices. The Target Audience: wine press, select customers. The Availability/Catalogue: everything is at Vintages, or Classics, or Consignment, or on the water. Some wines have yet to be pitched to LCBO. The Quote: “The best was saved for last: the 19th century wonder Vin de Constance from Klein Constantia in South Africa.” It is made from unbotrytised Muscat de Frontignan, some aging in tank, followed by 2 years in old 500 litre oak casks, and then put into a replica of its original bottle. The 2000 vintage is going to be available in the November Classics Catalogue, $66 for a half-litre bottle; there are only 60 bottles for the whole province. The Wines: first up were the Vintages/Classics/Coming Soon wines -- * Canard Duchene Champagne Brut NV [Now #299] $48.95: brilliant colour, definitive yeasty biscuit taste, strong mousse. An affordable canard. * 2004 Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf Binner [ Now #686352]$20.95: concentrated dry flavours (none of this off-dry stuff that’s been foisted on us lately), bitterish finish, MVC as it used to be. Great price. * 2004 Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet Isabelle & Denis Pommier $32.00 [February 2007]: the 2004 was not available for tasting. Somehow a tank sample of the 2005 was sent, enjoyable, but needs more bottle time (the 2005). * 2004 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy Isabelle & Denis Pommier $32.00 [February 2007]: 2005 tank sample was available. * 2004 Pouilly Fume Dom Berthier [April 2007} $25.95: concentrated, not goosey but herbal. * 2005 Muscat de Beaumes de Venise Dom de Beaumalric [375 ml] $15.75 [April 2007]: I always die for kind of sweetie, the one with the blond complexion and the long legs. Ray Chandler got it right. Good price too. * 2004 Beaumes de Venise Rouge Dom de Beaumalric [March 2007] $14.60: mostly grenache papery complexity, but also good value. * 2004 Gigondas Dom du Grapillon d’Or $26.95 [Offering to Vintages]: 14% alcohol, grenache based, fair price for a quality wine from the Southern Rhone. * 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Mathieu [November 2006] $31.45 [Halves also available]: excellent value, CdP MVC (shorthand) with length, but grenache flavours predominate. Halves should be useful for restaurants. * 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Vin di Felibre” Domaine Mathieu $70.00 [Offering to Vintages]: 80% mourvedre and 100% outstanding, with depth and fruit from this hot vintage year. * 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Domaine Mathieu $33.75 [Offering to Vintages]: fruity, acid driven, useful for earlier consumption. * 2004 Vire-Clesse Vieilles Vignes Cave de Vire [April 2007] $18.55: tautish, but full body, 13% alcohol, long ripe finish. * 2003 Chateau La Vieille Cure Fronsac [January 2007] $39.95: full, rich and ripe, ready soon. * 2003 Chateau Labergorce Margaux [February 2007] $46.30: soft, fruity currants, a good treasure for Valentine’s Day? * 2002 and 2003 Ladoix “Les Vris” Dom de Clivet $47.00: former Ontario wine merchant Phil Holzberg is an owner here. The 2002 is more food friendly than the riper 2003. * 2001 Rioja Reserva Baron de Ley [#958868] $18.95: lots of new oak bouquet and palate. * 2005 Esencia Divina Rias Baixas Adegas Gran Vinum [September] $16.95: young, crisp but still fruity, lots of body and life, a late summer wine. * 2005 Gruner Veltliner Classic Oberfeld Unger [November 2006] $16.95: some spritz, useful aperitif wine known for its lemony finish. * 2004 “Costalago” IGT Veneto Zeni [now #681767] $15.95: full, ripe, longer finish, and certainly affordable. * 2004 Valpolicella Class. Spre. “Vigne Alte” Zeni [May 2007] $15.30: tartish finish makes the wine a good one for a first course or a lunch. * 2003 Amarone di Valpolicella Class. “Vigne Alte” Zeni $55.00 [Holiday Classics]: slightly off-dry prunes. Ready by Christmas, concentrated flavours, and affordable. * 2001 Chianti Classico “San Marcellino” Rocca di Montegrossi $47.00 [Winter Classics]: for the Tuscan specialist, 13.5% alcohol, needs cellaring. * 2003 Chianti Rufina Riserva Prunatelli [September #938258] $16.95: North American style of ripe heaviness, 12.5% alcohol. * 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva “Campo Cerchi” Collelungo $50.00 [Winter Classics]: 14.5% alcohol, and its depth needs time to mature. * 2003 Aglianico del Vulture Tenuta del Portale [September] $17.95: not for the faint of heart, a deep rustic red. * 2004 Marmorelle Rosso IGT Salento Rubino [Vintages 730077] $13.95: despite 13% alcohol, this wine was warm and inviting. * 2004 Primitivo di Manduria “Segna Vento” Felline [March 2007] $17.40: bright cherries and chocolate tones, clear value, 14% alcohol. * 2001 Barolo Ciabot Berton [April 2007] $57.95: still a baby, and maybe even so in 2007. * 2005 Syrah IGT Sicilia Terra Elima [February 2007] $16.00: one of my favourite reds of the tasting, a very warm syrah component, very European and compact, 14% alcohol, bargain priced. * 2005 “Controvento” Dolcetto d’ Alba Bava $16.95 [Being offered to GL Now]: off-dry mouthfeel makes it an inviting wine. * 2004 Pinot Gris Adelaide Hills Nepenthe [Now #684266] $17.95: twist top, 14% alcohol, full and fruity side of pinot gris. * 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills Nepthenthe [Now #684274] $16.95: very dry and goosey, a value wine. * 2004 “Gumbank” Merlot Adelaide Hills Nepenthe [January 2007] $12.95: chocolate tones and some heat from the 14.5% alcohol, a winter warmer at a great price. * 2004 “The Rogue” Adelaide Hills Nepenthe [May 2007] $17.95: 64% syrah, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot, 14.5% alcohol, and 100% Ozzie style full bore shiraz blend. Maybe tamed by May 2007. * 2004 “Specialized” Shiraz, Cab, Merlot Penny’s Hill [January 2007] $24.65: a similar wine, but with 15% alcohol and some more depth. * 2004 Douro Reserva Barao de Vilar [Now #684712] $15.95: another full and ripe North American styled wine from Portugal, emphasizing cocoa. CONSIGNMENT WINES * 2004 Merlot “Les Jamelles” [Badet, Clement] $13.45/$11.61: the Jamelle wines have always been top values or “best values”. They express the French Vins de Pays nature of the varietals very well at this price level. * 2004 Syrah “Les Jamelles” $13.45/$11.61 * 2005 Sauvignon Blanc “Les Jamelles” $13.45$12.08 * Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Frizzante NV La Riva dei Frati $15.95/$14.19: a very pleasant sparkler for a lazy sunny afternoon. * 2005 Pinot Grigio del Veneto Le Fraghe [in transit] $19.85/$18.34: “So Ver” on the label, good body and acid for this northern Italian grigio. * 1998 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Il Conventino $29.95/$27.02 [In transit]: complex wine, not yet showing dustiness, well-aged and certainly well-priced. * 2004 Chardonnay Boggy Creek [next year] $21.00/$19.50: An Oz wine from King Valley in Victoria, 13.5% alcohol, twist top, slightly hot finish. * 2003 Shiraz Boggy Creek [next year] $22.95/$20.00: very thick and dense. * 2004 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Boggy Creek [next year] $22.95/$20.00: basic blend of these two varietals. * 2003 Barossa General Store Shiraz Hartz Barn Wines $27.95/$25.41: scrumptious, sensuous, and satisfying shiraz. * 2000 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Balnaves $37.95/$33.86: a firm wine, still needs cellaring. The Food: catered small sandwiches and cheeses, breads. The Downside: we were outside and we got chased inside twice because of rain, but both times it actually never happened. The Upside: the patio had great wasp control. An excellent, relaxed venue for tasting, with huge spittoons. The Contact Person: merchantvintner@sympatico.ca. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 96. It was a well-managed affair. 6. The Time and Date: Wednesday August 30, 2006, 3 – 5 PM The Event: A talk and an update on the wine industry in Israel, given by Professor Amos Hadas, retired from Hebrew University of Jerusalem. This was followed by a tasting of 11 wines from Israel. The Venue: Wine Lab at George Brown College, Adelaide Street. The Target Audience: Wine Writers Circle of Canada (WWCC) and Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). The Availability/Catalogue: wines are here on consignment through a variety of agents. The Quote: “Israel is positioning itself as a purveyor of fine wines, and seems to be placing itself in the New World mold of upfront juiciness.” The Wines: Prof. Hadas informed us of the remarkable changes in the industry, as the country tries to create new export markets. It must chip away at the common perception of “kosher” wines as being sweet. Wines from Israel are wines first, and most of them are kosher but not the plonk type. There are 140 wineries in 5 major wine areas (Galilee, Sharon, Samson, Judean Hills, and Negev). The industry, according to Prof. Hadas, is trying to elevate quality, lower the price, reduce expenses, improve efficiency, increase exports, and increase education. All of these would be useful to us in North America, especially the “education”: what Israeli wines are actually like now. We tasted (available from Vintage Wines plokash@on.aibn.com), Bravdo Karmei Yosef Winery Chardonnay 2005 ($27.50: toasty, spicy, appealing North American taste), Bravdo Merlot 85%/Cabernet Sauvignon 15% 2004 ($34.95: soft, off-dry, a bit hot on the finish despite 12.7% alcohol, North American appeal), Sea Horse Camus 2003 (+687889, Vintages, $28.95), Saslove Adom Marriage (Cabernet Sauvignon 60%/Merlot 37%/Shiraz 3%) 2003 ($32.95: 13.6%, soft and fruity, good food finish), Yatir Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz 2002 ($35.75: still tannic, 13.5% alcohol), Chateau Golan Eliad 2001 Royal Reserve ($44.50: Bordeaux-styled blend of cabernets, merlot and PV, tobacco nose and bouquet complexity but North American taste, 14% alcohol, one of the best reds in the tasting), And available from Lorac lorac@bellnet.ca, we had Carmel Ben Zimra 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard ($45: dense, ripe, hot tannic finish, full and voluptuous, my fave of the day, 14% alcohol), Carmel Limited Edition 2002 ($50: 60% cabernet sauvignon/30% merlot/10% cabernet franc, a young Bordeaux-type blend, needs time to open up). Available from Simcha Wine victor@simchawine.com , we sampled Dalton Merlot Reserve 2000 (13%, fat, ripe and jammy juicy, plummy, a touch of varnish in the finish) and Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1999 (the oldest wine here, a bit pruney, US oak and vanilla tones). And from Grafstein Wines yayin@rogers.com, we had Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($34.15: from Golan Heights Winery, with some added cabernet franc and merlot for complexity, 13.9%, very Bordeaux in tone, +532812, Specialty Kosher at LCBO). The Downside: too short a time for the lecture and tasting. The Upside: a rare opportunity to learn about Israeli wines. The Contact Person: Sheila Puritt, spuritt@hotmail.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89 – thanks to Sheila for making all the arrangements, going back to June. PRODUCTS TASTED THIS SUMMER 2006 ================================= Foster’s Group has been active in promoting and using PET solid plastic containers. Above, I noted the launch of Wolf Blass Bilyara Reserve Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon in PETs. They also sent around samples of single-serve bottles, again twist off and PETs, in the 187 ml size. Berenger White Zinfandel (+614354, $10.95 for a four pack), Berenger Stone Cellars Pinot Grigio (+614305, $13.95 4 pack), and Berenger Stone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (+614404, $13.95 4 pack). They all tasted the same as the larger version in glass. Sinai Hegyi Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 has been bottled and produced at the leading St. Donatus wine cellars in Hungary (+687160, $15.95 retail), nicely ripe with a long finish and black currants. It shows how well the Hungarian wine industry is responding to modern trends. An early innovator was Puklus who began making Tokaji in the new, upfront style with little or no oxidation. Their Tokaji Aszu 1998 3 Puttonyos in the half-litre bottle shows typical MVC honey without the old taste. Southbrook Winery has unleashed a new trio of wines. The Southbrook Chardonnay 2004 is making its way onto the General List (it may be there now), $14.95, 11.9% alcohol. It is basically declassified Triomphe wine, that is, it was done up in the same way as Triomphe by Ann Sperling, their new winemaker, who used 80% new French oak and 20% second and third year French oak. The barrel fermentation adds creaminess, and I detected some herbal qualities too. While it lacks the concentration of the Triomphe series, it is also less expensive – too bad we cannot have it both ways! Southbrook Cabernet Merlot 2002 (+669333, $14.95) is 12.5%, dense, juicy chocolate and coffee flavours, good tannins, long finish. Southbrook Cabernet Franc 2001 Watson Vineyard (+448357, $24.95) is a giant step upwards, especially to being more food friendly. This is a classic Loire-style wine, from 15 year old vines, showing cranberry complexity and other red berries, as well as some mocha. The higher acid level has been softened by barrel aging. Colio Estate Wines has a re-launch of their terrific CEV Merlot Reserve 2002 Barrel Aged, 13% alcohol. It had cleaned up with all sorts of top prizes or “bests” in 2005. At $24.95, it is approachable, with black currants, fruity, and some jam, almost cabernet sauvignon-like. The 2005 Colio Estate Riesling from Lake Erie North Shore was a summer charmer. Chateau des Charmes continues to actively launch wines through LCBO Vintages. This summer was no exception. In August, they had four wines in the “VQA on Tour” section of the catalogue. 2005 Riesling Estate Bottled ($15.95, +277228) – their third year at it – comes from some of their plantings done in 1978. It features the new sub-appellation “Niagara-on-the-Lake”. A good weight for summer, a serious wine for contemplation over the fish course. Their 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Estate Bottled ($16.95, +453423) has a twist top. The fruit comes from a variety of vineyards all within the new Niagara-on-the-Lake sub- appellation. The wine is virtually colourless which reflects its very lemony-herbal zestiness. It takes on New Zealand and South African sauvignons quite nicely in this price range. You could do worse than keeping your money at home. For reds, there are the twins Cabernet Franc (+453415) and Cabernet Sauvignon (+935957, both 2002, both $25, and both with the St.David’s Bench VAQ designation. Both wines were treated the same way (temperature controlled fermentation and one year aging in French oak) but of course are different because of the varietals and the vineyard blocks used. C Sauvignon has MVC typicality of black currants and bell peppers, while C Franc is more leafy and tobacco. The winery recommends pairing with any red meat or pasta dish, to which I would add that the Franc should be tasted at the table before the Sauvignon. For the September release, there is the 2002 Cabernet-Merlot Estate Bottled ($18.95, +222372) with the Niagara-on- the-Lake sub-appellation. It’s a 13.5% alcohol Bordeaux-like blend (43.5% franc, 39.5% sauvignon, 17% merlot, each vinified separately and aged for 9 months in one year old Allier oak. It’s part of the “Vintages Essentials” program, and it is your basic enjoyable yummy dark chocolate, raspberry, and black currant wine. For dessert, look to 2004 Late Harvest Riesling Estate Bottled ($17.95, +432930), primarily from 1978 plantings. At 11% it provides a bracing knockout of riesling intensity, off-sweet. Stoney Ridge Estate Winery also has some new wines. Their Riesling Reserve 2005 (12.5%) just came out, in time for the tail end of summer or Thanksgiving. It bears the VQA sub-appellation Beamsville Bench. It shows minerality and dry finish, perfect for rich foods. Also in time for Thanksgiving there is Cranberry 2005 (10% alcohol), and it is more off-dry than in the past. The tartness if refreshing, and what better wine for that time of the year? But if you miss it, there is always Christmas. Serve it as part of the second round of turkey, when you need to open up a hole for more food (almost like a trou normand). The Pinot Noir Reserve 2005 (11.6%) is a bit on the light side, with a twist top and one year aging in oak. It too is fine with the bird. The Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2004 (12.5%) is a useful Bordeaux blend for those who like a bit of wine stuffing with their food stuffing. With later courses (salads, cheese, desserts), there is a new series called igluu (wherever could they have gotten that word from??) – a 1999 Late Harvest Vidal, 12%, with tropical and stone fruit flavours, and a 2004 Select Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, 11.8%, more sweet, more berryish (think strawbs), picked in December 2004 at -10 degrees Celsius, and aged in French oak for six months. You could buy all six wines as a package for the Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, although the winery is not offering a reduced rate or special packaging. For the intensely curious amongst us, Flat Rock Cellars has announced a most perfect Christmas gift (my designation, not theirs). They want you to experience the new Clone Research Pack 2004, to learn about the differences between pinot noir clones through a tasting of three distinct Dijon clones. They claim to have vinified each clone to bring out a true, individual varietal character. Sort of a sub-MVC of the pinot noir profile. In addition, it has all been gently handled, including gravity flow over five-levels. The pack includes one bottle of each 2004 clone (#115, #667, and #777) plus one bottle of the final blend, Gravity 2004. The price is $110 and it comes in a nice presentation package with notes. I still remember Three Guys Pinot, a collection of three different pinots from the same year (2000, I think) made from the grapes of the same vineyard. One came from John at Marynissen, one from Eddie at Lakeview, and one from Jim at Stoney Ridge. There was a fourth bottle in the pack, which was a wooden case: Three Guys Pinot Noir. This was a blend, one-third from each winemaker. I remember liking Jim’s the best, followed by the blend. It sold for $100, so we’re only looking at an increase of $10 for this kind of pack. At Flat Rock Cellars, Ed Madronich has fashioned his blend from the three clones, but he’s not saying what the proportion are. You can figure it out by simply tasting the wines. One clone shows earthy aromas, mint and dried fruit. Another shows beetroot and smoke. A third shows “sweet exploding aroma of ripe red cherries, raspberries, violets and just-ripe strawberries”. One clone is definitely North American in style, another mushroomy and underbrush – not quite the merde – while the third seems to be elegantly Burgundian. A great game to play with five or six friends: just split the cost. For details, try www.flatrockcellars.com or 905-562-8994. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JUNE 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com NOTE: This month is short because I had commitments. Indeed, I was out- of-town June 21 through June 29 – and there were (at last count) *nine* events (South Africa, Portugal, spirits, Ontario wines, et al) plus a few lunches tucked into that timeframe. Fortunately, other wine writers were also not around, so some tastings got cancelled. 1. The Time and Date: Thursday, June 1, 2006, at 5:30 PM The Event: Aperitif a la Francaise, a world wide celebration of all things French, beginning with “aperitifs” (in Toronto, Montreal and 26 cities around the world) www.frenchcocktailhour.com The Venue: Brassaii on King West The Target Audience: the beautiful people and opinion makers, although the press were allowed in an hour early for pre-tasting. DJ music was prominent but most of the dance activity came later in the evening. By 7 PM I was gone. The Availability/Catalogue: a price card had listings for aperitifs (Dubonnet, Lillet, Pineau des Charentes, Pastis, Noilly Prat, Citadelle, Grey Goose, Grand Marnier) and beers (Boris, Fischer, and biere de garde). Strangely, cognac was missing this year. The Quote: “With Veuve Clicquot Vintage Reserve Brut 1999 ($79.95) being poured early on, our attention was riveted rather quickly”. And they ran out rather quickly too. The Wines: outstanding of course were the champagnes (the Veuve, the Taittinger Champagne Brut Reserve, the Laurent Perrier Brut (which was my fave of the evening, but I detected bottle variations: some bottles were better than others), even the off-dry Nectar Imperial from Moet which went well with dessert. The table wines were a mixed bag of basic whites and reds. I was surprised that there were no Roses…The best white was the Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2002 ($22.95) – it was also the most expensive of the collection of 8 whites. I also liked the zestiness of the Fat Bastard Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.95) and the balance of the Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay 2004 ($19.95). The reds were in better shape, although the JP Chenet Founder’s Reserve Merlot/Cabernet 2003 ($11.45) was an over-the-top North American styled wine from that hot and ripe 2003 vintage. Best value went to Chateau Bonnet Rouge Reserve 2002 ($16.85) for being delicious, followed by the Chateau des Laurets 2001 St.Emilion ($17.50). The Chateauneuf-du- Pape (both of them) were too heavy for the open air tent nature of the show. The Food: there were food suggestions for each drink, and it would have taken all night to pursue this angle for (unlike last year), the food came out in volleys of platters, by servers all over the floor, and we just took what came to us. Last year, food was offered at point of pour, so we could more easily match our food and potion. We were exposed to French oysters, socca, Poulain chocolate (thanks for the caffeine hit), steak skewers, salmon rillettes, croque-monsieur, foie gras, goat cheeses, salade nicoise, tapenade, brandade de morue. The Downside: I found the music too loud for too early in the evening The Upside: great French-styled food, and a chance to catch up with basic French table wines. Also, a great serving staff!! The Contact Person: anne.popoff@sopexa.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 7, 2006, from 2PM to 6PM The Event: Australia By the Region – a wine and food showcase by 25 wineries who are seeking representation in the Canadian market. The Venue: Intercontinental Toronto Centre (Front Street) The Target Audience: wine trade, mainly agents, and the press. The Availability/Catalogue: none of the wines were supposed to be available in Ontario, although some are here in BC or picked up an agent at the last minute. The catalogue was attractively laid out, with full details about the winery, contact person (who was supposed to be in the room), addresses, and offerings with CAD dollars FOB a case. The Quote: “While there are some fine wines here, most are the same as what we already have in the Ontario market at the same price.” One agent told me that the wineries would just take or add business away from each other. The Wines: some of the wines I was attracted to were rarish in this market, such as Connor Park Durif 2003 (a full wine, $109 CAD FOB case), or the bargain tasty Snowy Creek Chenin Verdelho Chardonnay blend ($28 CAD FOB), or the Kahlon Estate Long Tail Petit Verdot ($44 CD FOB), and the crisp Rangemore Carnaval Verdelho/Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (13.5% alcohol, $55 CAD FOB). Goulburn Terrace probably had the best wines, overall, but then they only make 1000 cases TOTAL. The Chardonnay 2003 (14% alcohol, $175 CAD FOB) was a firm food wine; the Midnight Shiraz 2002 (14%, $197 CAD FOB) was celebratory with its depth. Sandhurst Ridge Shiraz 2004 (14.5%) was rich and ripe; it is repped now by Ne Plus Ultra (but was $145 CAD FOB). Rochford Macedon Range Reserve Pinot Noir 2003 ($168 CAD FOB) surprised me with its full, ripe and rich structure. Olsen Wines weighed in with its Reserve Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($170 CAD FOB, minty, 14.2% alcohol) and its Reserve Chardonnay 2004 ($140 CAD, 14.2% alcohol, woodsy, ripe and firm). Punt Road Shiraz 2004 ($95 CAD FOB) was no slouch with its fruit and wood expression. Giant Steps Chardonnay 2004 ($117 CAD FOB) had almost 14% alcohol, 40% new French oak for 10 months, and a twist op. Light’s View Barossa Shiraz showed typical French syrah tones ($100 CAD FOB). Celestial Bay Cabernet 2003 ($91 CAD FOB) was very good, and 14% alcohol. The Food: there was some tender kangaroo, but I was surprise at how many attendees just did not want to eat any of the meat. Olive oils and a few canned goods were displayed, as well as barramundi fish and lamb, but over all, there was less Oz food than in previous years. Other food was provided (sandwiches, meats, nuts, cheese, crackers) for the tasters. The Downside: a tough market to crack. The Upside: great tasting wines, and it was relaxing since it was a small crowd. The Contact Person: Australian Trade Commission 416-323-9472 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): maybe 80 (tough market, but a nice gracious attempt). 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday June 13 2006, 11:30 AM to 12:30 PM The Event: Celebrate Ontario Wine and Art The Venue: Distillery District (Blue Dot Gallery) The Target Audience: media The Availability/Catalogue: Ontario Wine week was celebrated with the launch of the newly designated sub-appellations of the Niagara Peninsula – actually, it was the launch of Heather Cooper’s artistic rendering of the new wine regions. The Wine Council on Ontario, the Vintners Quality Alliance of Ontario, and the Hon. David Caplan (Minister of Public Infrastructure Renewal) all contributed through speeches. It was accompanied by many volleys of food platters from Sumptuous Catering, who were obviously told that there would be many Rieslings available for sampling (since that was the wine of choice, along with a sparkler and some Inox Reserve Chardonnay from Peninsula Ridge. The Quote: “What a great map; it shows really well. I’m getting mine framed”. The Wines: I didn’t take any notes, except to note that the food went well with the Rieslings. Henry of Pelham, Cave Spring, Stoney Ridge and Chateau des Charmes displayed. The Food: delicate hors d’oeuvre from www.sumptuous.ca The Downside: I got there five minutes late, and it had begun already. Mea culpa. The Upside: there was an hour and a half between the end of this announcement and the beginning of the Ontario Wine show (see below). So I and others of the press were invited to a Szabo & Szabo seminar on Niagara Sub-appellations. (see below) The Contact Person: Tanya.gorchynski@winesofontario.org. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday June 13, 2006, 12:30 PM to 2 PM The Event: a Szabo & Szabo seminar on Niagara sub-appellations The Venue: next door to the Blue Dot Gallery in the Distillery District The Target Audience: sommeliers and some wine press members The Availability/Catalogue: seven wines were sampled, and a fat handbook was given to all of us, with tons of tech data to read while we munched on our sandwiches. The Quote: “Four Mile Creek is the coldest region in winter, and the warmest region in summer: hence the windmills”. The Wines: These rieslings were designed to show off the differences in terroir: *Stoney Ridge Kew Vineyard Riesling 2005 Beamsville: aromatic, off-dry, good length to the dryness. *Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2004 Beamsville: some lemons, but well-rounded body, long expressive length. I identified this wine. *Château des Charmes Riesling 2004 Four Mile Creek: dry but also very young, more residual sugar. *Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve 2004 Short Hills: heavily perfumed nose, candied fruit, Germanic *Riesling style but with a dry finish. *Flat Rock Cellars Nadja's Vineyard 2004 20 Mile Bench: bone dry but not austere, needs food, Alsatian style, high acid but fleshy. I identified this wine. My favourite of the tasting. *Vineland Estates St. Urban Vineyard 2004 20 Mile Bench: dry, slightly watery, lacks body. *Inniskillin Schuele Vineyard 2004 Lakeshore: enhanced aromatics, some candied fruit. The Food: big, huge, great sandwiches. The Downside: not enough time, unfortunately. The Upside: a great way to spend the lunch period. Szabo & Szabo are good at what they do – informative AND entertaining! The Contact Person: linda.watts@winesofontario.org. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday June 13, 2006, 2 PM to 4:30 PM The Event: Third Annual Ontario VQA Wine Trade Fair, followed by the Ontario Wine Awards Consumer Fair (I was too slagged to go, but I did get the catalogue which listed all the winners). The Venue: Fermenting Cellar at the Distillery District. The Target Audience: licensees, wine trade, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: a good listing of the products from 25 or so producers of VQA wines in Ontario, with vintage dates and retail prices. Everything was available, either from the winery or through the LCBO. The Quote: “Some of the lighting was spotty. While I appreciated the lights at each booth, I usually step aside to let others in. But here, in doing so, I’m in a dark part of the space, and I cannot see my notes”. The Wines: I’ve always thought that Ontario made better whites than reds, and it seemed to show in today’s trade event. Even so I valued tasting Southbrook Triomphus Syrah 2004 ($49.95) for its good syrah component. Cave Spring Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2002 ($29.95) was soft, ripe and outstanding at this price level. Chateau des Charmes Paul Bosc Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($25) was hard but reminiscent of a first rate Bordeaux. Creekside Estate Laura’s Blend Meritage 2001 ($14.95) was excellent for the price and for its age. Get some. Fielding Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004 ($32) was dramatic. I particularly enjoyed Birchwood Estate Gewurztraminer 2004 ($10.95) as a sipper. Cave Spring Chardonnay Reserve 2003 ($19.95) fulfilled my immediate need for deep wood tones, at 13.5% alcohol. Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2004 ($15.95) was also deep, in the aromatic sense. A Gold at OWA. Match it to the Fielding Estate Chardonnay Musque 2005 ($15), a Silver at OWA. Flat Rock Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling was available as a vertical (2005, 2004, and 2003 – all except the 2003 priced at $19.95), a great comparison at the booth. Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.95) was its usual zesty self. Lailey Chardonnay 2004 ($19.95) showed French oak, and was softly balanced. Lakeview Cellars Kerner 2005 ($14.95) was off-dry but balanced, hot with a long length. It won a Gold at OWA. Magnotta’s Gewurztraminer Special Reserve 2004 ($12.95) was exceptionally full-bodied, and probably the best value white at the event. It too won a Gold at this year’s OWA. Mountain Road Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2002 Beamsville Bench ($15.95) was perfectly priced as an everyday woody-toasty chardonnay, enough to satisfy all the die hard fans. 14% alcohol, and still available. Andrew Peller Signature Series Chardonnay Sur Lie 2004 ($28) was very good and toasty too. Thirty Bench offered a horizontal of their Riesling 2005: the Triangle ($32) from 26 year old vines; the Steel Post ($28) from 20 year old vines; and the Wood Post ($28) from 15 year old vines. Plus their regular Riesling 2005 ($15). The Food: Evian water, Ace bakery breads, Dairy Farmers of Canada, chicken drums, veggies, smoked trout. The Downside: lowish turnout from the licensees, which is too bad. And why cannot the Dairy Farmers of Canada give us some Ontario cheeses? Woolwich, Balderston, etc. Also, unfortunately, only Pelee Island and The Grange of Prince Edward were the only wineries present who were not Niagara-based. The Upside: good contact with the wineries who seldom make it into Toronto for other wine shows. The Contact Person: www.winesofontario.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): great for the wine press (92), but for licensees? All you licensee readers on my list: GET OFF YOUR BUTTS AND TURN OUT FOR ONTARIO WINES !!!! AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MAY 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Monday, May 1, 2006, noon to 6 PM The Event: Austrian Annual Tasting (Wines from Austria) The Venue: Flow Restaurant and Lounge The Target Audience: wine trade, sommeliers, media, et al The Availability/Catalogue: Another good spiral bound catalogue, full of accessible data (thumbnail sketches of wineries, names of wines, vintages, alcohol percentage, CSPC when available) and addresses of agents. Prices were not printed up, and the book was a tad too large to be comfortable. The Quote: “The venue really worked, lots of flow through the room and the surrounding moat”. The Wines: Of course I did not try everything. But I certainly enjoyed Aichinger Riesling Von den Terrasen 2005 ($20, Merchant Vintner, twist cap); Allram Riesling Zobinger Aeiligenstein 2004 (14% alcohol, $30 consignment from Portfolio, intense fruit and hot near finish); Brundlmayer Riesling Kamptaler Terrasen 2005 (austere, from H.H.D. imports); Dr. Unger Riesling Reserve Silberbugel Wachau 2004 ($31.60, Merchant Vintner, off-dry but complex finish); Lenz Moser Prestige Trockenbeerenauslese 2004 ($19.95 half-bottle, November 2006 Vintages); Leth Gruner Veltliner Brunnthal 2005 ($17.50, Vergena, good broad flavours); Moorhof Unger Muscat Ottonel 2005 ($13.50 through Lamprecht, 12% alcohol); Rudolf Rabl Traminer Trockenbeerenauslese 2002 ($52 consignment from Thompson Vintage Trade); Schlumberger Rose Sparkling 2004 (100% pinot noir, $16.95 as a PO from Peter Mielzynski Agency); and Zahel Gelber Muskateller classic 2005 ($17.50, +881904 from Smallwinemakers, spicy components). The Food: good variety of cheeses, breads and meats. The Downside: availability and/or prices were a little vague. Also, the tasting was in the middle of Sante, which detracted from both events. The Upside: some of the leading Austrian wineries were present, including Brundlmayer. The Contact Person: toronto@austriantrade.org The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 2, 2006, 2 PM to 4 PM The Event: meeting with Andrew Margan of Margan Family Winery in Hunter Valley, Australia. The Venue: Small Winemakers Collection international headquarters. The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: the full-range is available through private orders at decent prices. Ten different wines are made; we tasted five of them. The 2003 Semillon is at Vintages this June. The Quote: “We are particularly excited about the Shiraz Saignee Rose which was picked in January 2006, bottled in late March, and shipped in early April. It comes out in Vintages in June.” My first 2006 wine… The Wines: * Margan Semillon 2003 Hunter Valley ($16, +961516, Vintages): not the old-style but more fresh while still retaining body and feel of semillon. Good semillon bite, with citric minerality. * Margan Chardonnay 2005 Hunter Valley ($18, consignment): 50% new French oak, 25% seasoned French oak, some BF, 38 year old vines, bright voluptuous flavours, ripe tropicality. 14.5% alcohol * Margan Shiraz Saignee Rose 2006 (Vintages): strawberries in a glass, really fresh wine, perfect time of year for the release. * Margan Shiraz 2003 Hunter Valley (Vintages rapid release, $17.95): medium heft but solid shiraz flavours, ripe and alcoholic (14.5%). * Margan Botrytis Semillon 2003 ($28 half-bottle): marmalade complexity. The Food: bread and water The Downside: it was in the middle of Sante, I was pressed for time. The Upside: it was a great opportunity to go one-on-one with a winemaker-owner from Oz. The Contact Person: peterw@smallwinemakers.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 3. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 3, 2006, 11 AM to 1 PM The Event: A tasting of Taurino Estate wines (Apulia) The Venue: LCBO Tasting Room, Scrivener Square The Target Audience: Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada The Availability/Catalogue: Tech notes and maps were given to us. Four wines were tasted, and presented by Rosanna Taurino, the owner. She spoke on the winery and production levels. The Quote: “The Taurinos were instrumental in putting Apulia on the map as a source of great wine, instead of a source of blending wine for the rest of Italy.” The Wines: * Salice Salentino Riserva 2001, +411892, $16.95 (Vintages): broad cherry tones, tons of flavours, 85% negroamaro, 13.5% alcohol. * Notarpanaro Rosso Salento 1999, +730937, $22.95 (Vintages): a thick wine, single vineyard and amarone styled. Some anise and smoke, tobacco leaf, aged in French oak for three years. * Patriglione 1997 ($69.95 Classics Catalogue): 14.5% alcohol, another amarone styled wine with dried grapes. Nicely aged. * A64 Cosimo 2002 ($40 private order): ripe flavours from this negroamaro wine with 15% cabernet sauvignon. The Food: bought in breads, cheeses, and cured meats, The Downside: it was in the middle of Sante, a busy time. The Upside: the light lunch of cold cuts and cheeses and breads perfectly complemented the wines. The Contact Person: info@hhdimports.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 4. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 3, 2006 2 PM to 5 PM The Event: The Annual Lifford Grand Tasting, trade component in the afternoon, consumer event in the evening. All money raised goes to a charity. The Venue: Eglinton Event Theatre The Target Audience: restaurants, sommeliers, wine trade – admitted by charitable donation. The Availability/Catalogue: seven basic order pages, with an indication of prices and sizes, some reviews shortened to numbers. More space would be needed to make serious notes. This was a large catalogue, although not every wine was presented, nor were all sizes available. Nevertheless, I found some room. The Quote: “A very elegant presentation, with many winemakers present”. The Wines: I didn’t taste all the wines, but I was left alone to taste what I wanted, and when I wanted to. Everybody was friendly. All then prices here are licensee. I enjoyed some spectacular wines, such as the Phelps Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($67.50), the Heitz Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($75: their low-end wine: other kinds are at $135 and $225 a bottle); Cakebread Napa Merlot 2002 ($85); and Pine Ridge Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($55, and the perfect expression of “dusty”). Cakebread Napa Chardonnay 2004 ($56) was my favourite California white of the day, although the more modest but hand-picked Benziger Family Chardonnay Carneros ($21.50) was a revelation. The more commercial Sonoma Creek Chardonnay 2004 was a steal at $19.99. From Australia, I dallied with Mitchell reds (Peppertree Shiraz 2003, soft and approachable, a syrah hit, $21.95), Hollick reds (Wilgha Shiraz 2002, $39.95 and Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, good tightness for $49.95) and Hollick whites (Chardonnay Reserve 2004, 14%, yummy Coonawarra for $19.99). From Chile, I thought Vina La Rosa was a standout. Their Don Reca Chardonnay 2004 was full and refreshing for a mere $18.95. The Don Reca Merlot 2003 was soft but outstanding for flavour ($18.95). From France, some Louis Jadots were out, as well as some Grands Crus from Compagnie Medocaine (Chateau Tour Pibran Pauillac, Chateau Cantenac Brown) and Cos D’Estournal 2002 ($106.50). Laurent Miquel Viognier Nord-Sud 2004 was a great buy for the price of $15.99. But the standouts for me from France were the two Alsatian houses. Domaine Paul Zinck showed restrained freshness and dryness in his Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, all 2004, and all in the mid-teens in pricing. Domaine Weinbach had majesty in her Pinot Gris Cuvee Sainte Catherine 2004 ($65), although I preferred the dry bitterness of Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence 2004 ($68) and the stunning concentration of the Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence ($85). The Food: a variety of scrumptious cheeses were provided by Alex. The Downside: it was right in the middle of Sante. The Upside: probably the finest portfolio tasting of wines in Toronto. The Contact Person: steve@lifford.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 5. The Time and Date: Thursday, May 4, 2006, 2 – 5 PM The Event: Sante “Trade” Tasting The Venue: The Carlu The Target Audience: wine trade, media, LCBO product consultants, et al The Availability/Catalogue: As last year, the catalogue is a spiral bound book, 4 x 6 inches, fits nicely in the hand and in the pocket. Filled with adverts to pay the bills, the catalogue has a page for each winery, with names and addresses, agents, websites, etc., plus a small descriptive paragraph for each. Nominally, four wines are on each table, and they are listed with space for notes. Just the vintages are given, not the price or the terms of availability. This year, the wineries ranged from Angels Gate in Niagara through to Wyndham Estate in Australia. The Quote: “Where’s the bread?” The Wines: Winery principals are supposed to be in attendance, to answer questions and so forth. I find that this works best at a trade fair when there is more time, say a few days, to taste the samples. Otherwise, it seems like a good idea for the winemaker to be here for the winemaker dinners, of course. With about 400 wines, there is really no time to chat. Follow-up questions can come later. Ideally, what I like is for somebody to pour me a half-ounce or so, and tell me alcohol percentage, price and availability (vintages, general, consignment, private, etc.) – without my having to ask for this data. Too often that doesn’t happen. Within that time constraint, I am lucky to taste one wine every two minutes. Over a three hour period, that’s 90 wines (not including pee time). Under the terms of Sante, all the wines are supposed to be available in the system. Indeed, the LCBO had an on-site store (I was told that the LCBO had pooh-poohed the idea for years, but apparently tried it as an experiment last year, and were totally shocked to find that it was actually worth their time to do a store!). Here are the wins that I was struck by: Champagne Georges Gardet Cuvee Saint Flavy NV (45% pinot meunier); Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve NV; Beringer Alluvium Red 2001 ($49, dynamite finish); Ardent Estates Sparkling Cabernet Shiraz NV (72% cabernet, 28% shiraz); Coyote’s Run Reserve Chardonnay VQA 2004 ($24, effective Hungarian oak, elegant); Creekside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (delicious, even if soft); Dogridge DV3 McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (intense); Domaine de Belle Mare Dry Muscat Blanc 2004 Pays d’Oc (very dry and lingering finish); Vina Errazuriz “The Blend” 2003 ($32, Vintages in Feb. 2007, 65% cabernet sauvignon plus carmenere, sangiovese, syrah: interesting and useful); Fielding Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2004 VQA ($25.73 licensee); Grange of Prince Edward Estate Trumpour’s Mill Chardonnay Reserve VQA 2004 (full, ripe, toasty length); Torres Atrium Merlot 2004 Penedes (exceedingly soft); Hardy Oomoo Shiraz 2004 ($22, no jokes please); Hess Collection Select Chardonnay 2004 Monterey ($19.95 for a rich and creamy California chard); Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (14.5% alcohol, delicious length and toothy right now); St.Supery Viru Napa Valley White Meritage 2004 ($30, 14.1% alcohol, 55% sauvignon balance, 45 semillon, and well-oaked); the affordable Vina Sena Arboleda line from Chile, about $16 each: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Shiraz; and Tawse Beamsville Bench Reserve Chardonnay 2003 VQA ($48) and Cabernet Franc 2003 VQA ($29) – one of the better Ontario wineries at the show. The Food: there was an over reliance on the Dairy Farmers of Canada to provide the sole food and, unfortunately, the bread – which quickly ran out. The DFC had provided 17 different kinds of cheeses for various Sante events, but never more than four at a time. One day it was Du Village Triple Crème, Fin Renard, Le Douanier, and 3 year Britannia Cheddar – all from Quebec. Today it was Ste-Martine, Frere Jacques, and Contomme (all Quebec) plus Balderson 5 year Heritage Cheddar from Ontario. Kathi Guidi did her best with the crowds The Downside: too little time OR too many wines, lack of bread The Upside: a chance to taste some newer wines that don’t make it over here all that often. The Contact Person: try the wine organizer steve@stevethurlow.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 82 6. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2006, 3 PM to 6 PM The Event: Australian wine Angove’s tasting with winemaker Tony Ingle. The Venue: Biagio Ristorante The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: All wines are in the market, or soon will be. Tech notes were prepared. The Quote: “ The Wines: Nine wines were sampled. * Angove’s Vineyard Select Riesling 2005 Clare Valley (Vintages Winter $17.95): minerality, clear and crisp, some good riesling character on the finish. * Angove’s Bear Crossing Chardonnay 2004 (General List, $9.95, +592758): French oak chip on the finish, strong vanilla component. * Angove’s Long Row Chardonnay 2004 Riverland (Vintages, $13.95, +641779): twist top, some French oak and oak chips, balanced and enjoyable lightish chardonnay. * Angove’s Nine Vines Rose 2005 Renmark (Vintages April, $11.95, +695049): refreshing hit of summer. Very pleasant, from grenache and shiraz. Twist top. * Angove’s Bear Crossing Cabernet/Merlot 2003 (General List, $10.95, +592766): basic red, very acceptable. * Angove’s Stonegate Cabernet/Shiraz 2003 South Australia (GL, $9.60, +618447): had some depth. * Angove’s Red Belly Black Shiraz 2003 Padthaway (Vintages June, $16.95, +566877): a highlight of the tasting, black cherries, well- developed. * Angove’s Vineyard Select Shiraz 2004 McLaren(Vintages Winter $19.95): 14.5% alcohol, heavy, sturdy wine, great in winter. * Angove’s Vineyard Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Coonawarra ($19.95): equally dominant in flavours, lots of black fruit and red fruit. Complex enough for most people. The Food: good Italian food served by the platter, went well with the food (breads, meats, cold cuts, fruit, cheese, etc.). The Downside: we started late. The Upside: good food matches today, a partial revelation (we usually don’t usually get elaborate food with Australian wine) The Contact Person: gpeterson.cipelli@bellnet.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 7. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 10, 2006, lunch hour The Event: The New Zealand Pre-release Tasting and Lunch The Venue: Biff’s The Target Audience: suppliers, media, invitees. The Availability/Catalogue: As in previous years, there was a booklet outlining the wines to be sampled (with CSPCs and prices), and the food created by the Oliver & Bonacini Restaurant group, with some suggested matches. Ketchin produced a great set of technical notes for all of the wines. The Quote: “This goes with that” The Wines: The 22 wines were featured at LCBO Vintages May 27th release. They included the food-oriented Cable Bay Culley Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($18.95) and the best overall white wine, the Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($27.95). Tenuta Campo Di Sasso Mt. Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2005 was also terrific, and good value ($19.95). In the pinot noirs, Te Kairanga Pinot Noir 2004 ($22.95) came through on the duck, while the Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2004 ($45.95) shone with the accompaniments of lentils, morels and wild leek. I placed the Crown Range Wild Earth Pinot Noir 2004 ($39.95) as third in the grouping. The Food: we sampled scallops, shrimp and calamari with the sauvignon blancs, the pork belly with the chardonnays and pinot grigio, viognier, and gewürztraminer, and duck confit with the pinot noirs and merlots. The Downside: there was not enough time nor glasses to try every wine against a bit of each food. I find that these tasting are a great idea, but I think that we need more food and a larger bucket. This would allow us to chew food with wine and spit the whole thing out. Ingesting too much wine at lunch precludes a useful afternoon of work, sad to say… The Upside: great food matches by Chefs Anthony Walsh and Basilio Pesce. The Contact Person: Robert Ketchin at nzwine@ketchin.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 94. 8. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2006, mid-day The Event: New Zealand The Venue: Design Exchange The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers (CAPS) plus LCBO and other invitees. The Availability/Catalogue: Brent Marris, the owner and wine maker of Wither Hills in Marlborough, did a seminar with Tony Aspler. It featured pinot noirs of 2003 and 2004 from different regions. Since 2002 there has been a 931% increase in the sales of New Zealand pinot noir in Canada. (Of course, the base number was a bit low to start with). None of the wines are available here on a consistent basis. Some are private orders, others are consignment. Prices were between $42 and $50, except for two as noted. The Quote: “Wines almost always taste better when the winemaker pours”. The Wines: Here are some of my impressions – * Waipara Hills Simmond's Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004 (Marlborough): 15.2% alcohol, but lightish in body, classic lean finish. ($22.45) * Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir 2004 from Central Otago: 14% alcohol, ripe and full of minerals. Black cherry with a floral note * Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2004 from Martinborough: thick, some spicy sandalwood, creamy almost. ($33-$35). * Neudorf Pinot Noir 2003 Moutere from Nelson: off-dry, jammy, very fresh mushroom and raspberry. * Wither Hills 2003 from Marlborough: the highlight, good depth to nose, smoky and well-developed. Some barnyard, some Cotes de Nuits. * Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2003 from Waipara: hot, some Bordeaux character. * Peregine Pinot Noir 2003 from Central Otago: plum and consistent notes of youthfulness. * Te Kairanga Pinot Noir Reserve 2003 from Martinborough: this was reticent and austere, very close to a young Burgundy. The Food: Robert Ketchin provided us all with gourmet sandwiches after the seminar had concluded. The Downside: it was actually too short a time. The Upside: good exposure to a class of pinot noirs not seen too often here in Canada. The Contact Person: Robert Ketchin nzwine@ketchin.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 91. 9. The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2006, 2:30 – 5 PM The Event: New Zealand Wine Fair, Toronto Edition The Venue: Design Exchange The Target Audience: wine trade and media, sommeliers, restaurateurs, LCBO, et al. The Availability/Catalogue: a spiral-bound notebook, with the wines clearly laid out with prices and availability (consignment, vintages, general, etc.). Kudos to Ketchin for this…. The Quote: “This room needs light: the shadows are awesome, and film nourish.” The Wines: Other pinots I tasted, and got a thrill out of, included Wither Hills 2005, which was superb; close behind were the fleshy Koura Bay 2004 (Portfolio, $33.95), Staete Landt 2004, and Voss Estate 2003. Mount Riley Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc Savée 2004, made in the MC method, was a highlight, as was Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Syrah 2004 Hawkes Bay, with its plentitude of black fruit. Auntsfield Estate Chardonnay Marlborough 2005 was very intense and woody (Frati Estate Wine). Fairhall Downs (MCO Wines) had some interesting Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2005, arriving at Vintages September 2, for $19.95. MCO also has Te Awa Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay 2004, at $26.95 for good broad flavours. The Te Awa Merlot 2004 (with added malbec and cabernet franc) was just bottled, and seemed a little tight. It will be submitted to Vintages. Konrad & Co Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2005 (Vergina International) will be here in November, $18.40 at Vintages. Matakana Estate Syrah 2002 (Prevedello and Mathews) is a private order for about $29, and showed enormous flesh. Matua Valley Judd Chardonnay Gisborne 2003 (Foster’s) at $28 was impressive, as was the zesty Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2005 at $22.95. Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Chardonnay 2005, $16.25 Vintages July 8 showed some caramel but was unoaked. Spy Valley Gewurztraminer Marlborough 2005, $19.95 through Kylix, had a great bitterish finish and 14% alcohol. The Food: catered by Daniel et Daniel, but I’m not sure that tortilla chips and commercial salsa were appropriate. Some good cheeses and miniature pavlovas… The Downside: the lighting made it hard to recognize friend or foe. The Upside: good location and great wines, containable. The Contact Person: Robert Ketchin at nzwine@ketchin.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88, 10. The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 10 AM to 4 PM The Event: A Workshop on Italian DOP Products The Venue: Hart House The Target Audience: wine trade and food trade The Availability/Catalogue: This was a promotional campaign for the DOP (protected denomination of origin food and wine products). It rolled out in Vancouver and Montreal as well, sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission. This was the fifth such campaign. Most of the wineries and the food producers were looking for importers and agents, so it had a trade fair component feel about it. The public was not invited. Still, since it was spread over such a large period of time, few people were in attendance at any one time. Prices were not generally available, although some could be quoted in FOB Euros. The Quote: “Where is everybody?” The Wines: Eighteen wineries were here, although one winery did not send any samples (and left the local agent hanging) and another winery sent the samples but not the salesman. It turned out that nine wineries – half of them – had Ontario agents, so I took notes on these. One winery had a “critter” Moscato D’Asti, labeled “Bug Juice”. Good marketing… * Viticcio Bulgheri Greppicante 2001 ($22.75, Frati) was a Bordeaux blend from Tuscany, good value. * Bellussi Brunello di Montalcino Belpoggio 2001 ($54, Majestic, expressive, ready soon). * Giada Moscato d’Asti Ceirole 2005 (June Vintages): delicious peachy wine. * Merenco Moscato d’Asti Scrapona 2005 ($16 from Cipelli, very fresh). * Monte del Fra’ Soave 2005 (from Signature, off-dry flavours). * Settimo Barolo 2000 Rocche ($50, Mondia Alliance VinVino Barrique, jammy, coming around now, good price). * Villa di Maser Verduzzo IGT Colli Trevigiani 2004 ($16.20, repped by Ne Plus Ultra): stainless steel and cool-aged, one of new breed of indigenous Italian grape varieties. Aromatic. The Food: Most of the food came from the producers seeking an importer (pickled mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, cheeses, olives, olive oils, cured meats). But there were also breads and freshly prepared foods, fruits, and the like. An excellent assortment. The Downside: the place looked empty at times, and I wish some pasta had been served, especially since pasta producers were there. The Upside: The loot bags were terrific! The Contact Person: toronto.toronto@ice.it The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 80. PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH 2006 * Colio Lily Sparkling 2004 VQA Cuve close method (+509083, $14.75): moderately interesting sparkler, at one time it was almost all riesling wine. * Colio Lily Sparkling Blanc de Noirs 2002 VQA (+618512, $17.95): much more interesting wine, lightish pinot noir tones, friendly off-dry feel. * Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2004 VQA Niagara (Vintages +322016, $15.95): is Niagara moving into more aromatic wines? The musque clone lends itself to no oaking, plus it does have certain muscat qualities while maintaining the chardonnay feel. Here, though, the 14.5% alcohol gives it a body: this is not a light wine. No residual sugar. Try it with dramatic food such as spicy chicken or jerked fish. A gold OWA winner. * Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer 2004 St.David’s Bench VQA (Vintages +453472, $19.95): a Silver OWA winner, this one delivers a strong memory of Alsace without actually being there. Don’t serve it too chilled. * Flat Rock Chardonnay 2004 VQA Niagara ($16.95; $13.59 licensee): half-done in stainless, half BF in French oak, then BA on lees for 5 months. Twist top, Rich, complex character at this price level, worthy of consideration. Some modest tropicality with a vanilla finish. * Flat Rock Twisted 2005 VQA Niagara ($18.95; 15.19): easy-going, Conundrum-like blend of gewürztraminer, riesling and chardonnay. Definite muscat-like component in the aromatics. Thoroughly charming as an aperitif. * Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2004 VQA Niagara ($24.95; $20): reserve level, definite step up, using some wild yeast. BF in 2/3 new French oak, one-third second fill; BA for a year in these same barrels, lees stirring, and MLF. Toasty orange peel tones, long buttery finish, can be sipped or with food. * Colio Pinot Grigio 2004 VQA Lake Erie North Shore ($14.95, +503391): fruity but still evolving sipper for summer. * Colio CEV Chardonnay 2005 VAQ Lake Erie North Shore ($14.45, +503382): unoaked, lean mid-palate, slightly generous fruit on finish. * Bright Brothers Bright Pink Rose 2005 Portugal (+622159, $11.95): well, it just wouldn’t do for the Portuguese to go into screw caps, for they have a cork industry to protect. So here they are going the other way – why use just a screwcap when you can use a whole bottle made of metal? Yes, this engaging sipper rose is packaged in a recyclable and RE-USABLE aluminum bottle. The wine also chills in one-fifth of the time, a useful feature if you plop it into a lake or river during a picnic. It is also lighter. Can vinho verde be next? More innovation, please… * Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2004 VQA Niagara ($19.95; 15.99): tech notes say 13.2% alcohol, label says 13.5%. No matter. Three Dijon clones were vinted and aged separately. Gravity, cold soaking, wild yeasts, one- third new French oak and two-thirds seasoned French oak for 11 months, MLF, and then the final selected blending: the works. More subtle than complex, emphasizing some earthiness. * Flat Rock Gravity Pinot Noir 2004 VQA Niagara ($29.95; $24.01): top Dijon clones of pinot noir were vented, but here there was 2/3 new French oak and one-third seasoned. The major difference appears to be the initial selection and the newness of the wood. Definite reserve level, with red fruit showing, slightly tartish at this point. Twist top. * Leopard Frog Kiss and Tell Reserve Limited Release 2003 Stellenbosch ($41.75, Colio Imports): 43% syrah, 42% merlot, 10% mourvedre, 5% malbec, showing enormous black fruits and peppers, good length. One to cellar. * Colio Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Aged 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+619510, $24.95): despite 12.7%, it felt hot with ripe tones. Developing much red fruit flavour. * Colio Gamay Noir Barrel Aged 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+342451, $14.95): smooth ripe berries, some plumminess and wood tones. * Colio Merlot Reserve Barrel Aged 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+500447, $29.95): fruity and woody, more food oriented than the Cabernet Sauvignon. * Colio Cabernet Franc Reserve Barrel Aged 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+432096, $21.95): Colio has a way with Cabernet Franc wine. Ripe and woodsy, great with food, an edge to the finish. This wine is also available in the 375 mL and 3 Litre bottles. * Colio Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+610832, $49.95): a serious wine, more red fruit, some cloves from the wood, spicy, jammy, taut. * Colio Signature Merlot 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+610856, $59.95): expect dark cherries and dark chocolate, nuts, and the dessert side of wines. 26 months of oaking. Ripe. * Colio Signature Meritage 2002 Lake Erie North Shore (+610840, $69.95): from selected barrels. You can find Bordeaux tones of black fruit, tobacco leaf, toast, ripe cassis finish. Blend was about one- third of each cabernet and merlot. A serious wine to cellar for a decade. * Colio Late Harvest Vidal 2004 Lake Erie North Shore (+470369, $11.95 half-bottle): engaging dessert wine, best with baked pies. * Colio Vidal Icewine 2004 Lake Erie North Shore (+467472, $39.95 half- bottle): very heavily fruited, apricots and butterscotch dominate, best on its own. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR APRIL 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Monday, April 3, 2006, 11 AM The Event: a tasting of Bouchard Pere et Fils 2004 Burgundies (red and white) and William Fevre 2004 Chablis, plus a few 2003 wines. The Venue: Royal Canadian Yacht Club on St. George St. The Target Audience: wine trade and wine press The Availability/Catalogue: most orders are private, although we did sample some General List Burgundies from Bouchard Pere et Fils and Fevre. The Quote: “The 2003 Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Vignee (+605667) is great bargain at $17.05 on the General List. It showed great intensity from this hot year at a modest price.” The Wines: there were at least three dozen wines to try. These were my favourites (and they weren’t necessarily the most expensive wines): I enjoyed the William Fevre Bougros Grand Cru 2004 ($77) for its long elegant finish; I thought it was marginally better than the Les Clos Grand Cru 2004 ($83). The best overall Chablis for the price was the Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent 1er Cru 2004 ($57) classic leanness with a great apple-lemon finish, beating out the Vaillons 1er Cru 2004 ($35) which was clean and crisp. The Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune de Chateau 1er Cru 2003 ($43) with its subtle wood tones and lush year beat out the next best wines, the Beaune 1er Cru St. Landry 2004 ($57) and the Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres 2004 ($82). Of course the Corton Charlemagnes were a step up in quality ($135 and $129). Kudos to the Woodmans for allowing us to try the Montrachet 2004, pegged at $483 a bottle. From the reds, I derived pleasure from the Pommard 2003 ($60) which seemed to be a bargain for its hot year and tannic finish. Even the more modest and lighter Savigny Les Beaune 2003 ($39) shined today. The overall best Burgundies, to my taste, were the two Beaunes (Beaune du Chateau 1er Cru 2003 ($43), a steal at the price for lushness and full body, and Beaune 1er Cru Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus 2004 ($83), very smooth complexity, soft velvet, North American appeal). The Nuits St. Georges 2003 ($52) was also plush but firm and enveloping. The Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2004 ($105) showed cherries and smoke, long length full of oak tones. The Food: cheese platter and veggie dips. The Contact Person: Woodman Wines and Spirits, 416-767-5114 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 8.6 2. The Time and Date: Monday, April 3, 2006, 3 PM The Event: a tasting of Domaine des Malandes-Chablis and Domaine Parent-Pommard The Venue: Opus, Prince Arthur Street The Target Audience: wine press and clients of Tastevin Selections The Availability/Catalogue: these wines are all over the place: some are in Classics Catalogue (or will be), the General List (such as the Chablis 2004 +136523), and at Vintages. Lyne Marchive presented the Chablis, while Anne Parent had her Pommards (plus a Beaune 1er Cru Epenottes 2002). The Quote: “Many of these wines are being offered to the LCBO” The Wines: * Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey 2004 ($29.95), lean apples but bright * Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2004 ($32) was more off-dryish and full * Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey 2002 ($29.95), Fall 2005 Vintages, also off-dry in feel * Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2003 ($55), Fall Classics 2005, a very nice tidy wine, expressive of Chablis, despite the year. * Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2003 ($59), somewhat smoky but tartish finish. * Pommard La Croix Blanche 2002 ($49), Summer 2005, bright and forward * Pommard La Croix Blanche 2003 ($45), full and ripe. * Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnieres 2002 ($59), Fall 2005, full but refreshing * Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnieres 2003 (67), very lush as befits the year. * Pommard 1er Cru Epenots 2002 ($73), good value in its pinot noir depth. The Food: fine cheeses The Contact Person: Adrian William tastevin@sympatico.ca. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 8 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 4, 2006, mid-morning. The Event: the annual German wine trade tasting and seminar. The Venue: Roy Thomson Hall The Target Audience: wine trade, mainly press and LCBO in the seminar; consumers at night The Availability/Catalogue: another first-rate catalogue, featuring wines landed and to come. Most wines were Riesling, but there were some pinot noirs, gewürztraminers, schreube, and the like. Full addresses and wine agents were included. Over 30 wineries attended. The Ottawa show was on April 6. The Quote:”They’ve leaped into the 21st century with a critter series box from Rainer Lingenfelder (Pfalz) with labels of bees and hares, emphasizing the “honeyed” and “racy” tones.” The Wines: I walked around the show, but of course I did not taste everything. The seminar beforehand showed off some critters, and some Rieslings from Weingut Burgerspital (Franken), and from Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken (Mosel), including their 1993 Riesling Spaetlese (petrol character) and the 1983 Riesling Auslese (drying out nicely, still peachy). My favourites: * 2003 Gewurztraminer Auslese Merdinger Buhl Badischer Winzerkeller, $18.25 private order from H.H.D. Imports, extremely good bitterness. * Deinhard Lila Riesling Brut Sekt, rolling release at Vintages, always a favourite sparkler of mine. * 2004 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Nackenheim Rothenberg Gunderloch, private order from H.H.D. Imports, extremely intense. * 2003 Riesling Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhr Studert-Prum, from agent Vinexx, revealed another strong intense riesling character. Their 2004 Riesling Sekt Dry Maximiner, about $20, was also profound. * 2002 Riesling Kabinett Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Schloss Schonborn, from H.H.D. Imports, had good perfume in the aromatics. Their 2004 Riesling Beerenauslese from the same region was extremely honeyed. * 2004 Pinot Grigio Pieroth is a new General Listing, and is commercial, but also very sippable for the summer. * 2003 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Pfeffingen-Fuhrmann-Eymael, $18.40 from Conoval, showed intense flavours and a ripe, overthetop body. Delicious. * 2004 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Off-Dry Bechtheimer-Geyersberg Geil Erben, $15 from Connoisseur, has price value for its good solid flavours. * 2004 Riesling Kabinett Dry Munsterer Pittersberg Kruger-Rumpf, $16 in June 10 Vintages, a bit petillant, but with Alsatian style brightness and body. * 2004 Riesling Spatlese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Markus Molitor, $25.75 as private order from Vergina, delicious riesling character. * 2004 Riesling Spatlese Dry Schloss Johannisberger Grunlack, $44.95, from Signature, had good density and acidic character for food. One of the best wines in the show, although pricey. The Food: there were nine wines at the seminar, and we tasted these and more with the luncheon buffet (spicy foods, Thai foods, salmon, etc., designed to show off the versatility of the wines). The Contact Person: Ron Fiorelli, at GermanWineCanada@sympatico.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 9 4. The Time and Date: Monday, April 10, 2006, mid-day The Event: The California Wine Fair The Venue: Fairmont Royal York Hotel The Target Audience: wine press and trade luncheon, wine trade exhibit in afternoon. The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available through the usual LCBO sub-categories or by private orders. My catalogue, though, began to fall apart after overuse on my part. It was laid out alphabetically by winery, although we had to consult a map to find exact table locations. The Quote: “Where to begin? There must be over 400 wines here!!” The Wines: of course, I did not try them all. Several had been pre- sampled at an earlier media tasting. These were my favourites: * Beringer Vineyards Alluvium Red 1999, $50, but soft and engaging, ready now. * Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2003, very lush. * Cain Five Napa 2002, from 43% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc, 19% merlot, some petit verdot and malbec. A real Bordeaux-styled blend. * Cain Concept Napa 2002, which is actually Cain 4 since it lacks the merlot. * Clos du Bois Briarcrest Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, was still tannic but beginning to shed in favour of the fruit. * Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, $24, tight fruit but a good food wine. * Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2003, $80, voluptuous but still a tight core. * Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2003, soft, more merlot-like. * Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Napa, Martha’s Vineyard, Bella Oaks) were the best wines in the show, and I appreciated the mini-horizontal tasting. * Heitz Chardonnay Napa 2004 showed great balance with its constituent parts. * J.Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay 2004, good oaking, tight food finish. * Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2003 was dynamic on my palate. * Newton Merlot Unfiltered 2001 was exceptionally soft. * Newton Chardonnay 2004 was delicious in the after finish. * Nichols Winery Chardonnay Edna Ranch 2000 showed a brown sugar nose. * Nichols Merlot Vinas del Sol Vineyard 1999, drying out nicely, ready now for restaurants. The Cabernet Sauvignon (same vineyard, same year) was delicious and will be ready next year. * Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2002, $65, was ripe, but the 1999 at 14.2% showed an immense amount of chocolate. * Rodney Strong Merlot Sonoma 2002, a bit lighter than usual but woodsy. * St.Francis Winery Chardonnay Sonoma 2004, aromatic, good elegance. * St.Francis Behler Vineyard Reserve Merlot 2001, 14.5% alcohol, and all yummy. * Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2003, tasted older, so it was well- aged. The Food: the trade luncheon was superb, as usual. The sparkling wine reception had three players: Gloria Ferrer, Moet et Chandon, and Kenwood. The 14th annual “Toast to California” luncheon featured Steven Page from the Barenaked Ladies, commenting on his discovery of wines. The menu featured ahi tuna, smoked salmon, smoked trout, roast sirloin, plus an assortment of Quebec cheeses (how about some US cheeses? I hear they make good cheeses in Sonoma). With lunch the standout wine (food wine version) was Rutherford Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2003, $21, US oak for 16 months, 92% cabernet, balance other Bordeaux- type varieties). Tom Noitsis from Eurovintage, the agent for the Rutherford Wine Company, assured me that they will all be at the LCBO in a fall release. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 9 5. The Time and Date: Wednesday, April 12, 2006, mid-morning. The Event: Seminar on Portugal’s Vinho Verde, followed by a lunch. The Venue: University Club The Target Audience: wine press, LCBO, and trade personnel. The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines were from 2005, and are not yet in play in this market. Hopefully, most will be here by Fall. The Quote: “Vinho Verde is the largest of Portugal’s 31 regions and the oldest, with a history dating back to over a century BC.” The Wines: Aveleda 2005, a bit frizzante with a good crisp finish; Quinta D'amares 2005, with a floral nose and some minerals, grapefruit tones, lively on the palate; Quinta do Ferro Avesso 2004, more body and heft on the finish; Quinta da Lixa 2005, excellent complexity, 12% alcohol. Muralhas da Monção 2005, a co-op, good bite and aromatic complexity, 12.5% alcohol; Soalheiro Alvarinho 2005, very dry, definitely food wine. Quinta de Carapeços 2005, a rose, bluish tint, floral, candied nose, spritz finish. The Food: the lunch saw a tuna sashimi with Adega de Moncao 2005, a smoked duck magret with Quinta de Carapecos Alvarinho Trajadura 2005, fresh scallops with Quinta de Carapecos Alvarinho 2005 (deliciously off-dry, my fave table wine of the day), grilled ostrich with Soalheiro Espumante 2002 (my fave wine of the day), and concluded with a blueberry pear tart with an Aveleda 2004. It was a great seminar and lunch. Vinho verdes range in price up to about $15, and should be consumed fresh. They are a viable competitor to Viognier and Conundrum- type blends, especially at this price level. The Contact Person: william.delgado@icep.pt The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 9.5 6. The Time and Date: Wednesday, April 19, 2006, 6 PM The Event: Ontario launch of Twin Fin wines The Venue: Michelle’s Beach House in the Beach, on a nice warm night. The Target Audience: press, restaurateurs, private clients, Imbiber subscribers The Availability/Catalogue: new General Listings for Twin Fin Cabernet Sauvignon and Twin Fin Pinot Noir, plus a chance to speak with the two Australians who crafted the wines: Hugh Reimers (winemaker) and Sam Burton (viticulturist). The Quote: “These are basically Ozzie-style wines made in California: succulent fruit-driven alternatives to the million sellers, but with a California lifestyle attached.” The Wines: eventually, there may be all six wines available, but for now, it is just the Pinot Noir (atypical if you are looking for Burgundy, but at this price?) and the Cabernet Sauvignon (classic), at $13.95 each. Other reds (not shown tonight) include Shiraz and Merlot. Two whites were available for show, a dynamic Chardonnay full of tropicality and toast, and a leanish Pinot Grigio. They’ll be coming eventually. The Food: superb, first rate, freshly cooked appetizers, in a stead stream The Contact Person: Churchill Cellars 416-368-5108 The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 9 7. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 25, 2006, mid-day to early evening. The Event: Experience the Greek Wine Renaissance Road Show 2006, a joint venture of 25 top wineries of Greece that have joined forces to present the modern face of Greek wine to the North American market. Typical wineries include Klima Gerovassiliou, Gaia Wines, Ktima Alpha, Ktima Mercouri, Oenoforos, Sigalas, Boutari, and Tselepos. The Venue: the Glass Room, Royal Ontario Museum The Target Audience: wine writers and LCBO at the seminar, trade at the afternoon tasting. The Availability/Catalogue: The day began with a seminar explaining the changes in Greek wines over the past few years (fresher white wines, soft and riper reds, better labels, more English used, consolidation of grape varieties). Over 300 grape varieties are indigenous to Greece, and there are 28 AOCs and 80 Vins de Pays. All the regions were carefully explained, although there was a sort of Amway preachiness about it. 18 wines from the show were sampled in seminar format. We were all asked to leave while the room was setup for reuse as a trade show. This was a nuisance since there was really nowhere to go, except to check out the exhibits at the ROM (not such a bad idea). Some tasters just simply left and went home or back to work. There were about 80 wines in the show, in the walk around from 3 PM to 7 PM The Quote: “I didn’t like waiting around for an hour while they struck the set: my time is valuable…I couldn’t even get a catalogue to peruse”. The Wines: Many of the wines are simply not available in Ontario on a consistent basis. Here were some of my favourite wines from the afternoon: * Alpha Estate 2004, unfiltered, good blend of syrah, xinomavro, and merlot, tight and balanced. * Alpha One 2003, massive wine from a hot year, with the heavier-than- thou tannat and montepulciano grapes, unfiltered, 14.3% alcohol. * Boutari Skalani 2003 Crete, cherries but tannic finish. * Boutari Filiria 2003, single vineyard, very good blend of half xinomavro and negoska. (Whitehall) * Domaine Evharis White 2005 Attica, a blend of half chardonnay and assyrtika, off-dry floral with a slight chardonnay hit, fresh with added length. * Gaia Estate 2003 Nemea, from the agiorghitiko grape, coconut nose, nicely aged, plush and lush for North American tastes. (Kolonaki Group) * Domaine Gerovassiliou White 2005 Macedonia, some anise, good body on palate, long length, sip or food. (Celebrated Cellars) * Geravassiliou Syrah 2003, about $35 from Celebrated Cellars. Good aging for a syrah hit. * Ramnista 2001 Naoussa, 14% alcohol, heavily aromatic, good body and heft, and a multitude of flavours. (Kolonaki Group) * Domaine Porto Carras 2000, made from limnio, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot, definite Euro style and traditional, very well developed, and worthy of consideration (Vergina). * Chateau Semeli 2003 Attica, all cabernet sauvignon, and a worthy contender for the cabernet sweepstakes in this hot year. (Rubaiyat). * Tsantali Cabernet Sauvignon Organic 2003 Mount Athos, soft in a North American style, warm and fruity in that hot year. (Dinos Vino) * Tsantali Rapsani Reserve 2001 Thessaly, equal proportions of xinomavro, krassata, and stavroto, a heavy and developing wine, serious food wine, mouthfilling on the palate. (Dinos Vino) The Food: catered by Daniel et Daniel. But the food needed more of a Greek punch. Whatever happened to Kerasma, a co-sponsor (Greek Mediterranean Gastronomy)? Great platters of shrimps, scallops, lamb lollipops, etc. made their way around the room. The Contact Person: Sofia Perpera, info@allaboutgreekwine.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 7.5 8. The Time and Date: Wednesday, April 26, 2006, 11 AM The Event: a tasting of Yering Station Australian wines with Gordon Gebbie, Commercial Director and Charles Jewett of Trilogy Wine Merchants. The Venue: Focaccia Restaurant The Target Audience: sommeliers and wine press The Availability/Catalogue: these wines are (or will be) in Vintages and by Consignment. We tasted 11 wines. The Quote: “Yering Station was Victoria’s first vineyard, from 1838. It was acquired and re-launched a decade ago by the Rathbone family.” The Wines: for those available – * Yering Frog Chardonnay 2003 Yarra Valley, $14.95, Consignment, screwcap entry level. * Yering Station Chardonnay 2002 Yarra Valley +651398, $19.95, crisp. * Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay 2002 Yarra Valley +825141, $55, complex expression of burgundian style chardonnay, 250 cases made each year. * Yering Frog Cabernets-Shiraz 2003 Yarra, $14.95, entry level house wine for restaurants. Excellent blend showing chocolate, tobacco, et. * Yering Frog Pinot Noir 2003 Cowra, $14.95, another screwcapped entry level wine with a good hit of pinot noir. The Frog series are all done up in French style… * Yering Station Reserve Pinot Noir 2002 +825190, $55, deep nose, longish length and developing well. But needs time. * Yering Reserve Shiraz 2002 Yarra Valley +825109, $55, with added Viognier for fruit. Very Rhonish and complex, takes time to open up, concentrated. There is a Shiraz-Viognier 2004 at Vintages that is warm and approachable, $19.95, but still a baby compared to the Reserve. The Food: platters of food, tapas-style buffet, good fries and shrimp The Contact Person: Charles Jewett trilogy@on.aibn.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 9 9. The Time and Date: Thursday, April 27, 2006, 11 AM The Event: a trade-only Zinfandel seminar and lunch, sponsored by the California Wine Institute and led by Szabo and Szabo. The Venue: Jamie Kennedy Kitchens The Target Audience: sommeliers and wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: 28 Zinfandel wines were ultimately available for tasting. All are available, but some were private orders. The Quote: “These guys lead some of the best seminars: you walk away actually learning something”. “There is no standard or recognition for Old Vines. Some may say that the winery can use the term Old Vines only if the winemaker who stomps the grapes leaves his socks on”. The Wines: there was a seminar about Zinfandel, with a tasting of 8 wines. This was followed by a mini-tasting of 20 other zinfandels in a pour your own area. Unfortunately, this area was very small and only two or three people could access it at once. It took awhile to get through these wines because of this constriction. I got lucky when I sat at the table with Paula and Rick and Joe Rallo from the California Wine Institute. After awhile, they just took the bottles they wanted, and we all had sips during lunch. Smart. The seminar wines were: * Rosenblum 2004, $19.95 Vintages, bright, some jam, good consistency and balance, food. * Cline Ancient Vines 2004 Carneros, $24.95 Vintages, fruity, higher alcohol, some mourvedre and carignan in the blend. * Geyser Peak Block Collection 2002, $34.95 Vintages, minty, overthetop spicy herbalism. Firm structure. * Ravenswood Old Vine 2002, $24.95 Vintages, 100+ year old vines, some chocolate, French oak, and added mourvedre and carignan. * Chateau Souverain 2002, $23.95 Vintages, classic elegance, off-dry, with some added petite syrah and syrah. 14.5% alcohol. One of my favourites of the day. * Seghesio 2003, $31.95 consignment, definitely a fooder wine, with some petite syrah added. * Storybook Mountain 2002, $39.95 Vintages, rustic nose, tight and tannic on finish, 14.7% alcohol but not obvious. * Montevina Terra D’Oro 2003, $39.95, private order from Corby, 100 year old vines, full, ripe, elegant with heavy extract, black fruit laden. My first choice. Of the other 20 wines, I was impressed with the Montevina Terra D’Oro SHR Field Blend Zinfandel ($39.95, private order, Corby) and the Tin Barn Datraddy Vineyard Napa 2003 ($46.95 Vintages). For value and for all-round drinkability, check out Cynthia Moore’s wines: Michael David Vineyards Lodi 2004 ($24.95) and Cedarville Vineyards Sierra Foothills 2003 ($35.50). Both were incredibly smooth with a long finish. Both are private orders from Cynthia’s Selections (cynthia.moore@rogers.com). The Food: superb, with fries, smoked sausages, duck ham. Corn fritters, pulled pork, ribs, fired greens, and a peach cobbler. The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 9.7 10. The Time and Date: Friday, April 28, 2006, noon The Event: the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada Annual General Meeting The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square The Target Audience: WWCC members The Availability/Catalogue: Halpern Enterprises put together an interesting collection of some 30 wines for the members to try, after the AGM which began at 10:30 AM. Todd Halpern was along, to explain some of the wines and his marketing philosophy, changes in the company, and the Grand Cru Toronto Hospitals charity function in the fall (Oct 26 and 28), which will consist of portfolio tastings and intimate fund- raising dinners in about 50 homes! Last year they raised $1.2 million. The Quote: “Bob (i.e. Robert Parker Jr.) will be there this year” The Wines: mostly through the consignment program, although we had a few general list. My favourites were: * 2002 Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage Cuvee (Taittinger), delightful mousse and texture, $30.20. * 2005 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc NZ, a very good WOM, intense, $19.95. * 2003 Firestone Estate Chardonnay, excellent quality for a restaurant, and priced to go, $18.68. * 2003 Tenimenti d’Alessandro Manzano Fontarca, very tasty off-dry white, spicy, $30.21. * 2004 Burge Family Semillon Barossa Valley, great semillon quality (best semillon wine I’ve had in some time), $36.70. * 2003 Michel Gassier Syrah Les Pilliers, a WOM from a very hot vintage, good house wine, $16.95. * 2001 Paul Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Domaine Thalabert, intense syrah component, $29.95. * 2002 Antinori Villa Antinori Toscano Rosso IGT, is mostly declassified 2002 Tignanello (which was not made that year). Villa Antinori used to be a Chianti Classico but the region was changed, resulting in an IGT classification. All the grapes are still Antinori’s, $23.75. * 2004 Terra Andina Malbec/Petit Verdot Colchagua Chile, an interesting blend of flavours for a mere $15.15 a bottle. * 1999 Domaine “A” Cabernet Sauvignon Tasmania, my favourite succulent wine of the event, ready now, and reasonable affordable at $59.64. The Food: bread and water – this was a serious tasting! The Contact Person: philip@halpernwine.wine The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 8 PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH APRIL 2006 Barco Reale di Carmignano 2003 “Capezzana” is a well-known name in Tuscany. Here, in Ontario, it is the “Wine of the Month” at the LCBO’s Vintages collection. It comes from older vines of sangiovese (about 80%), cabernet sauvignon (10%) and canaiolo (10%). This particular vintage comes from a hot and ripe year, which lends some chocolate tones to the mid-palate. Ripe and full, its off-dry complexity adds some length to the finish as a pretty good food wine. Trius Red 2003 VQA (Hillebrand), gold medalist from the AWS Competition, aged in French oak (one-quarter new), and then using only selected barrels. The resulting blend is 60% cabernet franc (one of the grapes that seems to do well in Ontario), with merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Expect cassis and herbs too, but don’t expect to drink it for another three years. Chateau des Charmes Riesling Estate Bottled 2004 VQA, $15.95 +277228, done up in stainless steel, bright, lemon-lime citrus tones. Medal winner at CWA. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet-Merlot 2001 Estate Bottles VQA, $19.95 +222372, from the Lepp Vineyard and the Paul Bosc Vineyard. Half Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc, and with mounds of aged chocolate and cassis. Aged in French oak for one year and kept back at the winery. Drinking now. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR MARCH 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 7, 2006, 2PM – 5 PM The Event: Wines of South Africa (WOSA) wine fair. The Venue: Hart House, University of Toronto. The Target Audience: wine trade, restaurateurs, clubs, wine writers, wine societies. The Availability/Catalogue: far better than last time. A huge spiral bound book, with numbered pages, a listing of wine agents, and the thirty tables listed in numerical order. Easy to use, easy to find. The Quote: “South African wine sales have increased by a third nationally”. The Wines: Of course, I didn’t try them all, just the more arcane and unusual. African Terroir Tribal Sparkling 100% Muscat, $16.95, was actually bone dry; Sonop Shiraz 2004 was organic (13.5% alcohol, $12.80 June 2006 release) and very good. Both from davidschmid@altanet.ca. Beyerskloof Pinotage Rose Brut 2005 ($13.95) an unusual sparkler from Authentic. Lammershoek Roulette Blanc 2005 ($20, blend of chenin blanc and viognier plus chardonnay and harsevelu) for non-zesty sauvignon blanc styled intensity, from Bokke Eleanor.rigby1.@rogers.com. Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2005 (Fall Classics, $27) was ripe with muscle on the palate, some cloves. Meerlust Chardonnay 2003 was its equal, often scoring 90 points by everybody ($32.95, Vintages). La Motte Chardonnay 2004 ($15.95, Vintages) was more affordable. Lindhorst Merlot 2003 showed nice olives (+686790, $24.95). Both the Nederberg Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($12.55) and the Stellenzicht Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($16.95) showed affordable zest. A mid-price bargain has always been Cathedral Cellars from KWV. The Chardonnay 2004 was buttered toast for $14.95, while the Shiraz 2001 and the Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 were ripe and pouting for $16.95 apiece. Dornier White 2004 ($16.95, +597278, Vintages July) is a blend of sauvignon blanc and other varieties. Joubert-Tradauw Chardonnay 2003 was floral with a long length ($28.95, 14.5% alcohol, MCO wines), while their Syrah 2003 ($28.95) showed a good French component, syrah in name and body. More unusual wine came from RKW Imports, bringing in a range from the Goats do Roam series. The latest is Bored Doe Bordeaux Blend with merlot, cabernet, malbec, and petit verdot. Great marketing. The Vinimark Robertson Winery series will be arriving at Vintages this fall: look for Wolkloof Shiraz 2003 ($17.95, +626341) and Prospect Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($17.95, +687814). One of the more expensive wines here was the Ernie Els 2003, at $94 retail. They come in a case of six. It was definitely worth tasting. More affordable was the Kaapzicht Shiraz 2003 ($30 from dthompson@vintagetrade.ca). Thompson gave us the opportunity to have a min-tasting with the De Wetshof Estate Chardonnay – five different styles were available. Most were 14.5% alcohol, and from the year 2005 for the lighter unwooded but rich wines. The 2003 had been put up in French oak. Graham Beck Blanc de Blanc Brut Chardonnay 1999 is a perennial winner in the sparkler category; $19.95 this Fall at Vintages. There were good smoke dreams behind the Graham Beck Shiraz 2003 ($16.95). Delheim Wines brought over their Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($19.95, needs cellaring to reduce its tightness) but the Merlot 2003 has fruit showing, soft mildness ($16.95 from admin@wineworldimporters.com). Laibach Estates The Ladybird 2004 organic, 14.5%, $22, is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc: nose of Bordeaux, but good long chocolate-mocha length, also from Wineworld. The Food: sausages, South African treats, cheeses, breads. The Contact Person: keenan@propellerpr.com for availability and general information about the wines of South Africa. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, March 8, 2006, 11 AM through noon. The Event: a media briefing from Bill and Marilyn Redelmeier, owners of Southbrook Winery. The Venue: Offices of Diamond & Schmitt Architects, Spadina and Adelaide. The Target Audience: consumers, through the wine media present. The Availability/Catalogue: Details were released about the winery’s upcoming plans. Specifically, Southbrook is moving its winery operation to Niagara-on-the-Lake, to a 74 acre parcel. It will be the first winery off the QEW on the way to NOTL. It has been half-planted already, mainly to cabernet franc, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon clones. Planting of chardonnay will begin soon. Plans are to have 61 acres planted by the end of 2007. The Major Mac address for the Southbrook Farm will remain for fruit and vegetables, and pumpkins in the fall. Marilyn was introduced as the Project Manager. Ann Sperling was presented as the new winemaker; this will be a full-time job for her. Architect Jack Diamond designed the winery (12,000 square foot winery facility, including a 6,000 square foot production facility). The winery will remain small, producing about 10,000 cases annually. It will open in the summer of 2007. There were plenty of charts, landscape, and elevation drawings on display for the curious media. The Quote: “To celebrate our 15th anniversary in the wine business, we are now willing to commit.” The Wines: there was a mini-tasting of Triomphe Cabernet Merlot 2000 (11.5%, jammy fruit, +533299) and Triomphe Chardonnay 2000 (13.5%, broad oak with a Euro expression, +533315). Triomphe Vidal Icewine 2003 (11%) was produced with dessert. The Food: light luncheon sandwiches, hors d’oeuvre, fruit tarts The Contact Person: krector@jkr.ca or www.southbrook.com The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 3. The Time and Date: Thursday, March 9, 2006, 3 – 6 PM The Event: A tasting of Bremerton Vineyards, Langhorne Creek, South Australia, with one of the owners, Lucy Willson (marketing manager) attending. The Venue: National Club The Target Audience: private client offering The Availability/Catalogue: all of these wines are private orders. The Quote: “Matilda Plains is named for the Willson family border collie, Matilda Freckles, who loves juicy ripe grapes”. The Wines: of the whites, the Matilda Plains Sauvignon Blanc 2005 was the better, very much in a zesty style but with much body9 $14.88). My favourite red was the Bremerton Selkirk Shiraz 2003 ($20.86) with good fruit set, long finish, a bit hot. 15% alcohol, and good value. The Bremerton Old Adam Shiraz 2002 ($34.88) and 14.5% alcohol, made from old vines and with an appealing nose bursting with black fruit and pepper, following through to the finish. Some mintiness. The Bremerton Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($35.06) at 14% alcohol also showed a minty nose, some anise, strong cassis, ending with plums. Lingering finish, perhaps best with food. The Food: good finger foods, delightful cheeses at room temperature The Contact Person: Lloyd Evans, info@thecaseforwine.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 4. The Time and Date: Thursday, March 9, 2006, 6 PM onwards The Event: Stoney Ridge wine tasting “Days of Wine and Roses” at the winery’s official garden feature at Canada Blooms. This was the VIP launch. The Venue: Canada Blooms at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre. The Target Audience: VIPs, opinion makers, and the press. The Availability/Catalogue: Range of general wine offerings was available for tasting. This was the preview tasting of the new (recently bottled) 2005 Reserve Riesling, a wine dominated by its firm body concentration. The Quote: ”The garden will take permanent residence at the winery once the show is over.” The Wines: I was especially pleased to re-try the Bench Chardonnay, to check out any bottle variations since the previous month. I was able to have a half ounce from every bottle opened (about six samples) to check: this is an excellent wine, with body and concentration of apples, lemons, and vanilla, an entry-level chardonnay from Ontario. The amount of vanilla tones, though, seemed to vary from bottle to bottle. It will all resolve with time. Other good wines, based on bottle samples, included the Stoney Ridge Merlot Reserve 2004 ($39.95, succulent fruit, a Silver medalist, 13.5% alcohol), and the Cabernet Franc Reserve 2004 Wismer Vineyard ($34.95, also aged a year in oak). Both will require cellaring. The Cabernet Sauvignon Bench 2003 ($13.95) showed 12% alcohol but a good dollop of baked black fruit tones and wood stuffing; this too can be laid down. The Food: basic MTCC cheese platters. The Contact Person: Art Coles, 905-562-1324, ext. 30. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. 5. The Time and Date: Monday, March 13, 2006, 11 AM. The Event: Press preview blind tasting of the California Wine Fair, due in town April 11. The Venue: Far Niente restaurant, now redesigned and relaunched. The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: we tasted some 70 wines by flights (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon (the most wines), plus an assortment of other white and red wines. All of these wines will be at the Toronto version of the California Wine Fair. The Quote: “Whee- whee” A sort-of smoke detector went off just as we were to sample the chardonnays: a toasty barrel detector? The Wines: I’m not sure what the basis was for showing us these particular wines, but as a group they were more food friendly than in the past. Fewer fruit bombs with more finishing acids in the length and less sweetness on the mid-palate. Here’s a listing of my favourites: Testarossa Vineyards Castello Central Coast 2004 Chardonnay displayed a heady woody nose with a pleasant length ($49.95). Hess Collection Napa Valley 2004 Chardonnay had a balance of fruit-oak-acid ($31.95, Vintages later), while Sebastiani Sonoma County 2004 Chardonnay ($19.95, Consignment Select) was an all-purpose sipper with mild tropicality, unsmoked wood tones, and an off-dry palate. From the reds, I enjoyed the dark nature and complexity of Tandem Sangiacomo Sonoma Coast 2003 Pinot Noir (Classics Sept 2006, $61.95), the Euro complexity of Cline Cellars Carneros Syrah 2002 ($27.95), the elegant suaveness of Duckhorn Napa Valley 2003 Merlot ($69.95, Vintages), and the fruity mouth-filling finish of Pedroncelli Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley Sonoma 2002 Zinfandel ($17.95, Consignment Gibson). The Cabernet Sauvignon flights (there were 19 wines) were a bit of a disappointment in that the pricey wines didn’t score well when tasted blind. Priced at $225 (Heitz), $72 (Oakville), $99 (Chateau St. Jean), $49.95 (Stag’s Leap) – they just didn’t show well. But I did get a soft fruity character with overtones of blackness from Far Niente Oakville Napa Valley 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon ($146.35, Classics August 2006), smooth oak and sipping balance from Nichols Vinas del Sol 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon ($49.95, Consignment Le Sommelier), some Euro complexity in Beringer Knights Valley 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon ($44.95, Vintages Essentials), and a straight ahead old style California flavour in Cuvaison Estate Napa Valley 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon ($44.95, Vintages). The Food: hot and cold lunch treats (lamb ribs, sandwiches, seafood, tarts, etc.) The Contact Person: check with paula@praxispr.ca for more details about the California fair and the wines being poured, how to access, etc. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): the emergency lock-down got our attention, but the tasting and food deserve a resounding 91. 6. The Time and Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2006, 3 PM to dinner. The Event: Portfolio tasting for Churchill Cellars. More details on the wines at www.churchillcellars.com. The Venue: St.Lawrence Hall, Great Hall The Target Audience: private customers, hospitality trade, wine writers. The Availability/Catalogue: there were handy business cards for each wine, with an updated price list for the whole catalogue. The Quote: “That pinot grigio was superb, especially with the Shropshire Blue cheese”. The Wines: basic wines were on display, primarily from the General List. From the whites, I was impressed with the fresh and off-dry 2005 Riesling Gewurztraminer Hardys blend from Australia (+448548, $9.30), the aromatic Pieroth Pinot Grigio 2004 Rheinhessen (+669283, $10.80), and the overzested screwcapped Nobilo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (+554444, $15.65). From the reds, I was actually blown away by the Chateau de Gourgazaud 2003 Minervois (+22384, $11.25) coming from the scorched year of 2003 which just emphasized the North American style of its syrah and mourvedre grapes. I wouldn’t be surprised if 2004 was more Euro style, so buy the 2003 now. Robertson Winery Shiraz 2004 (+610949, $11.95) showed great syrah definition at a great price. The Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (+255513 Vintages, $37.95) would be an outstanding choice for a host gift, with its cachet. But it needs cellaring time. Put it up against the Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Hardy) from Oz (+976399, $29.95), another worthy contender for light cellaring. The Food: selected cheeses from Alex Farms (organic brie from Cornwall, Benedictine blue from PQ, some chevre, a vacherin de terroir, Italian casera, etc.), Top Meadow Farms natural roast beef from White House Meats in the St.Lawrence, and a half dozen mustards from Kozlik’s. The Contact Person: carly@churchillcellars.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 7. The Time and Date: Friday, March 24, 2006, 2 PM – 4 PM The Event: a tasting of Domaine d’Orfeuilles Vouvray (Loire) with Isabelle Herivault pouring a selection of Chenin Blanc wines from her family property. The Venue: JK wine bar The Target Audience: private clients, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: all over the place. Some are private orders, others are consignment, Vintages, and Classics catalogue. The Quote: “The full range is here, from sparkling, dry through medium dry to dessert.” The Wines: Domaine d’Orfeuilles Brut NV, 12% alcohol, $20: delicate, subtle. The 1997 Brut was 12.5% with chenin blanc from limestone soils, more steely character, and only three bucks more. Both are private orders. Domaine d’Orfeuilles Dry Vouvray 2002, a gold medalist, was similarly delicate yet it had a floral nose with a long finish. Consignment, at $20, and good value. Silex D’Orfeuilles 2002, bone dry, great length, my personal favourite of the afternoon. Private, $23. Les Coudraies 2002 is the classic Vouvray of my youth. Medium Dry. Private, $20. Les Coudraies 2003 is more full, more body, from a hot year, and can be more appealing to consumers, which is why it will be in Vintages in September at a mere $16.65. Worth waiting for. Domaine d’Orfeuilles Reserve d’Automne 1997 showed intense, bracing chenin blanc sweetness with an acidic finish. Classics catalogue in September, $39. Domaine d’Orfeuilles Reserve d’Automne 1989 was sweet, a delightful fruit basket with lots of body. Private, $45. The Food: fabulous variety of cheeses, from the softs through the blues. Plus dates and walnuts. The Contact Person: Nuray Ali nuray@ex-cellars.ca The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 8. The Time and Date: Friday, March 31, 2006, 5 PM onwards The Event: a portfolio tasting for Le Sommelier The Venue: Academy of Spherical Arts The Target Audience: private clients The Availability/Catalogue: a range of 15 wines available by consignment. The Quote: “We’ll be at Sante with many of these wines, from both Macaw Creek and DogRidge in Oz, Fanti San Filippo in Tuscany”. The Wines: *Champagne Gatinois Grand Cru de Ay NV (90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, dry), $56.75, one year on lees, 20 year old vines, biscuity. *Jo Pithon Anjou Les Pepinieres 2004 (100% Chenin Blanc, dry), $17 for half-bottle, 15 year old vines, 13% alcohol, developing lemons and zest. *DogRidge McLaren Vale DV12 Chardonnay 2004 (99% Chardonnay, 1% Sauv Blanc for freshness, dry), $30.50, 12.9%, quite a strong SB presence but then the wine is unwooded. Screwcap. *Domaine de la Foli Rully Clos St.Jacques 1er Cru 2001, $39.75, 45 year old vines and 8 months French oak, good finishing acid for food. *Domaine Michel Prunier et Fille Chorey-les-Beaunes 2000, $29.95, 13.3% alcohol, 10 months oak, low production of 220 cases in all. Light, delicate, best with food. *Aldinga Bay McLaren Vale Sangiovese 2001 (100% Sangiovese, dry), $16, dark fruit, 14.5%, like pinot noir with some animalistic nose. Good price. *DogRidge McLaren Vale DV3 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (100% Cab Sauv, dry), $42, 15% alcohol, 60 year old vines, 26 months in US and French oak, loaded with cedarish cassis. *Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998 (100% Sangiovese, dry), $69, 13.5%, very flavourful brunello but not yet ready. *J.M.Raffault Chinon Rouge Clos des Capucins 2002 (100% Cabernet Franc, dry), $29.95, 18 months in 2/3 new French oak, half the vines were 70 years old, the other half were 20 years old, some olive and cabernet franc herbaceousness. *Macaw Creek Reserve Shiraz Cabernet 2001 (75% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, dry), $49.45, 13.1% alcohol, a year in new French and US oak, nicely aged and well-blended with some black fruit tones from both grape varieties. *Macaw Creek Preservative Free Yoolang Shiraz 2002 (100% Shiraz), , $28.25, 14.5%, not quite organic but next best, a half year in French oak, plummy and full black fruits, deep, dark and smoky, in a “traditional” manner. *Vine Cliff Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% CabFranc, 4% Petit Verdot, dry), $69.95, from the Oakville region, 14.2% alcohol, 18 months in barrel, intense fruit, some mocha tones, clean tannins, ready soon. *Jo Pithon Coteaux du Layon 4 Villages 2004 (100% Chenin Blanc, medium sweet), some marmalade aged flavours already, 13% alcohol, 12 months in used oak, some BA present. The Food: I was at a pre-tasting, with no food beyond Fred’s Bread The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com, or www.lesommelier.com. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 87. Later that day, I was also able to sample two fragrant Hungarian wines from another agent. Both wines are at Vintages: -Nyakas Budai Irsai Oliver 2004 2004, +718239, $12.95, from the muscat family, with the same intense aromatic nose, light, best with soups in the summer. -Pannonhalmi Tricollis Cuve 2004, +672964, $11.95, an intriguing blend of gewürztraminer, riersling, and welschriesling, full-bodied tree fruit (apples, pears, peaches, apricots), great summer sipper. WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR FEBRUARY 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Tuesday, February 7, 2006, 1 PM to 6 PM The Event: tasting of current Stoney Ridge wines, with the winemaker Liubomir Popovici. The Venue: offices of their agent, Philippe Dandurand Wines (bmaclean@philippedandurandwines.ca) The Target Audience: licensees, the wine press The Availability/Catalogue: price list includes 29 separate items, ranging from chef’s cooking wine and house wines through a Bench series ($10 - $15), a Reserve series ($15 – $25) and a Founders Signature Collection ($20 up), plus a cranberry, late harvest vidal, cabernet franc icewine, and gewürztraminer icewine. There is even a “port” knockoff. The Quote: “Many wines have been re-launched and added to the General List in January 2006 (Reserve Chardonnay, Reserve Pinot Noir, reserve Cabernet-Merlot, Reserve Baco Noir) as well as to Vintages (Bench Merlot, Founder’s Meritage, Founder’s Chardonnay)” The Wines: I stuck with the table wines. My all-time favourite from Stoney Ridge is the Bench Chardonnay. Over the years it has been consistently good. Here, for 2004, it was oaky with butterscotch ($11.95). The Bench Riesling 2004 ($11) showed a nice crisp finish. The Bench Cabernet Franc 2004 ($11.95) was a utilitarian red showing red fruit that still needed time. The Bench Cabernet/Merlot ($14.95) at 13.5% alcohol has some juicy fruit which smoothed out the modest finish. The Reserve line shined: Reserve Chardonnay 2004 (full-bodied and rich), Reserve Riesling 2005 (dry, great riesling intensity), Reserve Baco Noir 2004 (full-bodied, reminiscent of pinot noir in taste), Reserve Pinot Noir 2004 (reserved in nose, but lingered, needs cellaring), Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2004 (soft and fruity, tartish middle but with a good cabernet hit, needs integration time), Reserve Cabernet Franc 2003 (Stoney Ridge always does well with this wine, a good version), and the engaging, almost fully developed Reserve Merlot 2003. Founders Signature Charlotte Chardonnay 2003 (stainless steel) was full and ripe; it had a cork. The 2004 version has a screw cap), and is more fruity since it was made from the chardonnay musque grape, and hence it is also about five dollars cheaper. The Meritage 2003 was a Bordeaux-style blend under cork, while the 2004 had a screw cap. Both will need some putting away. The Food: cheeses, crackers, sweets The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88. 2. The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 8, 2006, 6:30 PM to 9 PM. The Event: Bravo Espana, presented by the LCBO. I was a guest of Wines from Spain. The Venue: Arcadian Court, Simpson Tower. The Target Audience: the consumer. This is a rarity for me, attending a consumer event. I didn’t know anybody except most of the LCBO personnel who were pouring, and fellow wine writers. This strangeness helped speed up my tasting. The Availability/Catalogue: we were warned that “some wines may run out”, so I ran through the catalogue and started with the most expensive wines first. There were about 50 wines from the major regions. Wines currently available at Vintages were featured as well as wines from the February 18 Vintages Spanish release. And it was actually fun to taste wines that are currently available without feeling frustrated by vagueness from agents at trade shows. The Quote: “It’s darker than I expected it to be. Makes it harder to see the wines”. “I have no idea why sherry is on the first table: it just makes us all well-oiled early in the evening.” People seemed to go logically, from table 1 through 12, which also had sherry and brandy. The Wines: one of my favourite wines from the evening was the La Gitana Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada (+975797, $18.95), a well-aged dry sherry from a single vineyard. The Jean Leon Terrasola Syrah/Garnacha 2003 (+673707, $16.95) had a fabulous hit of syrah and fruit. The Castillo Perelada Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (+673467, $21.95) was hot and pruney. The Beronia Tempranillo 2001 Rioja (+723643, $15.95) revealed fruit, wood and chocolate, pretty good at this price level. Faustino I Rioja Gran Reserva 1995 (+976662, $29.95) was aging nicely, as a Rioja GR should. The Capcanes Mas Donis Barrica Tinto 2003 (+705863, $15.95) was another bargain wine, rich, full, good length. Vina Villabuena Vina Izadi Crianza Rioja 2001 (+640300, $17.95) was my all round woodsy Best Buy of the night; it was 100% tempanillo. The Marques de Vitoria Crianza Rioja 2000 (+678045, $16.95) was a yummy over-the-top fruit wine. The Allende 2001 Rioja Unfiltered (+954560, $28.95) showed thick concentrated fruit. The CVNE Contino Rioja Reserva 2000 (+672923, $32.95) was dramatic and dusky, good price for this quality. The Alion 2001 Ribera del Duero (+707166, $64.95) was the most expensive wine in the event; it was spectacular, with good wood on the lingering finish. The Pago de los Capellanes Joven Roble 2004 Ribera del Duero (+678177, $20.95) was definitely North American – New World in style. The Casa de la Ermita Crianza 2002 (+956334, $17.95) had good fruit. The overall hands down winner was the Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2003 (+977843, $41.95) which was a standout for its length and cabernet fruitiness. The Food: knockoffs of Spanish cuisine, with overcooked paella, some sausages, calamari, cod cakes. Spanish and other cheeses…Nevertheless, it all went fast at this consumer event. The flamenco music and dancing, though, was great fun. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday, February 21, 10:30 AM to 12:30 PM The Event: a tasting of Spanish wines from hot winemaker Alvaro Palacios (who makes L’Ermita Priorat wine that regularly sells out despite being over $600US a bottle). Wines were to be available via the agent or the Feb 18 Vintages Spanish release. The Venue: Summerhill LCBO Kitchen Tasting Room, on Scrivener Square. The Target Audience: wine press, selected clients, licensees. Woodman Wines and Spirits are the agents. The Availability/Catalogue: For more details, contact jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com. The Quote: “We had a fantastic winemaker’s dinner last night at George Restaurant; it was co-sponsored by Vintages and Alvaro Palacios.” The Wines: * Bodegas Palacios Remondo La Vendimia 2004 (Rioja – 100% tempranillo), $15.96, +674564: ruby with black cherries on the nose, good entry level wine, modest body but good structure, needed time to open. * Remondo La Montesa 2003 (Rioja – 40% garnacha, 40% tempranillo, 10% mazuelo, 10% graciano), $21.95, +674572: again, ruby colour with a floral nose, good length, brilliant with food, spicy tempranillo comes through. * Remondo Propiedad 2003 (Rioja – 45% tempranillo, 40% garnacha, 15% granciano and mazuelo), +597880, $39.95: low tannins but nice extract, oaky, long long finish, spicy. 13.5% alcohol. Needs cellar time. My favourite of the tasting. * Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos del Bierzo 2004 (Bierzo region – mencia grape), +675207, $22.95: burgundy shaped bottle (other bottles were all Bordeaux shaped). Tart, sour acidity, tannic length to the finish, definitely needs time/aeration/food. It was poured to us in a decanter. * Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2003 (Priorat – 60% carinena, 30% garnacha, 10% cabernet sauvignon and syrah), +977843, $41.95: a sort-of baby L’Ermita with a strong propensity to be like Bordeaux with its smoky-cedary-mocha complexity, just coming into balance. Definite cabernet feel. The Food: Chris Klugman brought along some hot and cold tapas from Summerhill Market (stew on potato wedges, interesting fruit-meat- vegetable kebabs). David Tkaczuk from Serrano Imports brought along a whole leg of Serrano ham (creamy, melt in your mouth sweetness) and kept cutting and serving until we begged him to stop. There were also Spanish cheeses, including Cabrales. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93. 4. The Time and Date: Tuesday, February 21, 2006, 6 PM The Event: “A Special Anniversary Tasting” of the Ontario Wine Society, celebrating 15 years of collegiality. The tasting was of Ontario VQA methode traditionnelle sparkling wines. This was, I think, the first time that an assortment of currently available MC VQA wines were shown off in Toronto – maybe even the first time any VQA MC sparklers were assembled for just the specific purpose of tasting VQA MC sparklers. Eight MC sparklers were tasted, as well as Inniskillin Sparkling Icewine 2003 (harvested January 2004, Charmat method, on lees for nine months: it was exciting, primarily because the dissolved carbon dioxide provide a bracing refreshing feel to offset the over-the-top sweetness on the palate). The reception wine was a lively Charmat from Colio CEV Sparkling Lily 2004 ($14.95; some nutty crispness, quaffing wine). I spotted the Vineland Estate Brut, but when I tried it, I was underwhelmed; it did not taste like an MC. I checked the label and discovered that while the OWS was expecting the Brut Reserve MC, we actually tasted the Brut 2004 Charmat, a nice wine (slightly off-dry) but not MC quality. They must have sent the wrong wine. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to it until near the end of the evening (I went alphabetically). Instead of a sitdown tasting format, it was a walkaround with a few food stations. Angelo Pavan, the winemaker from Cave Spring Cellars, came to pour his wine. Other wines were poured by OWS volunteers. The Venue: Ontario Club The Target Audience: A great turnout of Ontario Wine Society members, friends, guests, the press. A pleasant surprise was the attendance of all the past and present and future presidents of the OWS. After 10 years, Bruce Barber was stepping down, and Robert Moore will be the incoming President for 2006/07. The Availability/Catalogue: Most of these VQA wines can be obtained through Doug Tower who runs www.winerytohome.com (1-866-254-6075). I’d like to thank the Ontario Wine Society for inviting me to this -- and other – functions, and to allow me to engage in the tastings of VQA Ontario wines. For further details about the OWS, see www.ontariowinesociety.com The Quote: “I cannot wait for the historical dinner on April 25 at the U of T’s Faculty Club. There’ll be tons of great food, lectures on the meal, and Henry of Pelham wines – and all those Group of Seven paintings. What a great idea!” The Wines: For me, the hands-down winner was Cave Spring Cellars Brut 2003, entirely pinot noir (from limestone soils), aged for 15 months on its lees, very French in style ($27.95 at winery). The next level, down a notch, goes to both Chateau des Charmes Brut NV, aged on lees for three years, and a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, $21.95) and Thirteenth Street Funk Premier Cuvee 2001 (OWS notes say 5 years on the lees, all Chardonnay, but the back label says pinot noir and chardonnay [in that order]; it had off-dry complexity and fruit). Henry of Pelham contributed two MC sparklers – Cuvee Catherine Brut NV (30 months on lees; biscuits and baked apples; $29.95) and Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut NV (30 months on lees; cherry-berry tones, pinot noir and chardonnay, great blush colour, $29.95). Hillebrand Estates Winery had its Trius Brut NV (70% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, no pinot meunier anymore; 30 months on lees; good consistency and medium toast, off-dry on palate, not as crisp as previous versions, $21.95). Jackson-Triggs Vintners Proprietors’ Grand Reserve NV (creamy with citric tones), and Peller Estates Founder’s Series Cristalle NV, made with chardonnay, pinot noir and some added icewine, off-dry in a “sec” mode, $29.95. The best buy of the evening was Chateau des Charmes Brut NV at only $21.95. The Food: cheese and liverwurst toasted spread, fresh fruit The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. 5. The Time and Date: Tuesday, February 28, 2006, 2 PM to 6 PM The Event: a meet and greet with Jacky Barthelme, winemaker at Albert Mann (Alsace). The Venue: Small Winemakers Collection World HQ on Broadview Avenue The Target Audience: Barthelme was in town to show off the 2004 vintage to trade, press and LCBO. The Availability/Catalogue: currently, all are private orders, but some will be available through Fall Classics (the Grand Crus), Fall Vintages and Spring 2007 Vintages. Details through www.smallwinemakers.ca The Quote: “What a way to spend Fat Tuesday!” The Wines: (in Jacky’s tasting order) * 2004 Pinot Noir Grand H, $48 licensee: a killer pinot, made from a Grand Cru vineyard (but AOC prohibits listing such on the label), 13.5% alcohol, massive concentration, good smoky extract. * 2004 Pinot Blanc Auxerrois, $17 licensee: under screw cap, 12.5%, 70% pinot blanc, aromatic white flowers, long long dry finish, good character, very fresh and useful for a restaurant wine. Albert Mann also has an Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes, which was not available for sampling today. * 2004 Riesling Cuvee Albert, $21 licensee: at Vintages before, off- dry, some yeast, fresh, affordable, screw cap. * 2004 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg, $34 L: light nose, fresh, off- dry finish, off-dry palate, reflective of granitic soil. * 2004 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst, $34 L: good consistency, finishes soft, but needs definition. * 2004 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum Vieilles Vignes, $ 35 L: from 40 year old vines, 13% alcohol, aromatic, off-dry style, some residual sugar, intense gewürztraminer finish. Hands down winner of the tasting. The Food: fatty aged cheeses, including one washed in gewürztraminer. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89. PRODUCTS TASTED IN FEBRUARY 2006 * Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2001 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, +287268 Vintages March, $19.95: on its lees for a year, BF and BA in new Allier oak, plenty of citrus, melon, and butter, with dry complexity and a leanish finish. 13.5% alcohol. Vineyard is on the north side of York Road in Niagara. * Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2001 St. David’s Bench, +430991 Vintages April, $19.95: on its lees for a year, BF and BA in new Allier oak, more body than the Bosc, some more creamy and fruit concentration. Slight lean to New World style, especially with the alcohol. 14.5% alcohol. Vineyard is on the south side of York Road in Niagara. * Tolnai Olaszrizling Chateau Kurdi 2002 Hungary, +692731 Vintages, $11.95: a gold medalist in 2002. Late Harvest overripe style for the welshriesling grape, lots of body in dryish mode, some bitter almonds in the finish, reminiscent of gewürztraminer. * Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Cuvee 2003 Lake Balaton St. Donatus Hungary. +672576 Vintages, $14.95: 13% alcohol, from a ripe year. Ready now, showing red berries and forest floor. AN ADDED VALUE FOR MY SUBSCRIBERS – WINE TRADE WINDS DIARY FOR JANUARY 2006 By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, dtudor@ryerson.ca Always available at www.deantudor.com 1. The Time and Date: Monday, January 16, 2006, at 6 PM The Event: Canada versus Bordeaux, at the monthly meeting of the Ontario Wine Society. The Venue: Ontario Club The Target Audience: It was a sold-out audience of some 140 members of the OWS, wine press, and agents. The Availability/Catalogue: tasting notes and sheets. This blind tasting of wines from Ontario, BC, and Bordeaux (with a ringer) is modeled on a series of professional tastings organized over the years by Larry Paterson, formerly of the LCBO and currently a grape grower and winemaker. Since 1996, he has organized 16 Ontario/BC/Bordeaux tastings. The results are at www.littlefatwino.com. The Quote: Tony Aspler was the speaker-analysis for the evening. One of his comments was about the theory of continental drifting, which referred to the fact that many wines were seemingly mid-Atlantic in style despite their geographic origin. The Wines: we tasted them blind, and we all voted on what we thought were the best wines, in order. First place: New Zealand Newton Forrest Cornerstone 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon ($42.75, from Abcon International). I thought the wine was neither BC nor Ontario. It was the ringer, and I suspected Washington State. I preferred it “second”. Second place: Ontario Stoney Ridge 2002 Founders Cabernet Merlot Signature ($34.95). A good nose convinced me of its Bordeaux nature. I preferred this wine as “first”. Third place: British Columbia Sumac Ridge 2001 Pinnacle ($50).I thought the wine was disjointed, and I did not place it anywhere geographically. It had 3% syrah, so I thought it was a bit of a cheat for Bordeaux (unless you look at historical records when Bordeaux used a lot of syrah from the Rhone). Fourth: Ontario Colio 2002 CEV Reserve Merlot ($24.95).The style of this wine leaned to more Cabernet edge than Merlot, but I still thought it was Ontario. Fifth: Ontario Southbrook Winery Triomphe 1999 ($39.95). I thought that this wine was very French: Bill Redelmeier tries for that style. I placed it “third”. Sixth: BC Mission Hill 2001 Oculus ($50). A bit weak in the nose. Seventh: Bordeaux Chateau L’Hopital Veyret Latour 2002 ($27.95). Iodine and sharp fruit in the nose, definitely French. Eighth: Bordeaux Chateau Segonzac 2000 ($32.95). Woody, good length. I place the wine “fourth”. Ninth: Ontario Lakeview Cellars 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25). Thick, soft and sweet, aging nicely. Tenth: Bordeaux Chateau Puyfromage 2003 ($13.65), flat nose and surprisingly unfruity despite the 2003 vintage. A poor bottle? The Food: snack of reasonable food. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90. 2. The Time and Date: Tuesday January 24, 2006, from 2 to 4 PM. The Event: 2003 Bordeaux wines from the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux. About 75 chateaux made their way over here. Red wines were tasted, as well as whites (dry, mostly Pessac-Leognan, and Sauternes). The Venue: Four-Seasons Yorkville. The Target Audience: the trade in the afternoon; consumers in the evening. The Availability/Catalogue: these were wines available for purchase right now via the LCBO. Order forms were available at the show. The top tier wines (the big five) were not on display. The Quote: “These wines taste like something from Northern California, or even Washington: upfront juiciness with an edge of dryness and acid.” The Wines: very good wines were on show, but they were pricey. The vintage is very drinkable now, due to the heat of the year 2003. Little additional cellaring is needed. My favourites (I only tasted reds): Lynch Bages, Domaine de Chevalier, Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Smith Haut-Lafitte, Angélus ($269!), Clos Fourtet, Cantenac-Brown, Lascombes, Beychevelle, Rauzan-Ségla, Lynch-Moussas, Clerc Milon, Gazin, Petit- Village, Léoville-Poyferré, Malartic-Lagravière, Lafon-Rochet. Good value (in terms of prices): Chantegrive (Graves, $28), Carbonnieux (Graves, $40), Dassault (St.Emilion, $41), Coufran (Haut-Medoc, $27), Greysac (Medoc, $20.50), La Tour de By (Medoc, $25). Chateau Beaumont, a perennial favourite from Haut-Medoc, was only $20.50; it was more Bordeaux in shape than many of the wines. It too was good value, but I thought I should single it out since it tasted like, well, Bordeaux… The Food: pate (only one kind), good cheeses from around the world (huge gruyere, three blues), fruit and nuts. Toasts. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92. 3. The Time and Date: Tuesday January 31, 2006, 2:30 PM to 6 PM The Event: Annual Trade Tasting of Portuguese Wines, sponsored by Vini Portugal and Icep Portugal. The Venue: Fairmount Royal York Hotel The Target Audience: trade, restaurants, wine press. The Availability/Catalogue: hefty, oversized spiral bound listing of most wines, with grape varieties clearly indicated. Some vintages were missing, as were many prices. Many producers were looking for agents, and some prices were FOB Euros. Names and addresses were furnished for everybody. Wines were in the system, either Vintages or Consignment, now or future. Others were private order. For more details contact william.delgado@icep.pt. The Quote: “For the first time, Ports were not shown as part of the Portuguese trade show. Ports now have their own, separate show.” The Wines: because of the vast numbers of wines, I did not taste most of the whites, nor did I taste most of the non-represented producers. Some of the wineries I enjoyed included the range from Cortes de Cima (their Incognito 2003 Alentejo, mostly syrah, was intense and perfumey; available from RKW Wine Imports); Caves Alianca Bairrada Garrafeira 1997 (coming to Vintages in June, as a remarkable $12.45 bargain; it was one of only two wines today labeled “Garrafeira”); a nice modest range of Caves Vale do Rodo from the Douro, headed by their Cabeca de Burro 2002, full of chocolate-mocha-dried fruit ($25.50 from 30.50 Imports; the rest of the range was interesting, mostly under $10 to licensees); and J.M.Fonseca’s Domini Plus 2001 Douro at $30 (Philippe Dandurand) was full of the touriga nacional and franca defining character. There was the 100% touriga nacional Quinta de Ventozelo Reserva 2001 Douro (B & W) and the Vicente Leite de Faria Gloria Reserva 2003 (with tinta roriz, $21.90 from Vergina Imports) – both had coffee-toffee tones. Messias Quinta do Valdoeiro 2003 Bairrada Reserva comes to Vintages in July at $17.95. Casal Branco Falcoaria 2004 Ribatejo Reserva ($24.95, from Rouge et Blanc) showed lifted fruit. By far the largest presence was FWP Trading, representing Adega Cartuxa, Bacalhoa, CARM, Herdade da Melhadinha Nova, Monte do Trevo, J. Portugal Ramos, Quinta do Mouro, Niepoort, and Herdade dos Coelheiros. It took more than an hour to get through their eight tables, and even then I didn’t get to try everything. My favourites from this grouping included Quinta da Bacalhoa 2002 Setubal (fruity but tight cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend, a decent $31.95), the invigorating So Syrah Bacalhoa 2003 Setubal ($24 from a juicy vintage), CARM Grande Escolha 2003 Douro ($41, nacional, franca, and roriz; very warm and full of lingering depth) and the slightly lesser CARM Reserva 2003 ($29.50), the JP Ramos Vila Santa 2004 Alentejo ($28.60, taut and developing), the JP Ramos Marques de Borba Reserva 2003 Alentejo ($14.60, soft and fruity from a warm vintage), Quinta do Mouro Casa dos Zagalos 2003 Alentejo ($27.40, displaying excellent length), Niepoort Redoma Tinto 2003 Douro ($58.65, one of the best wines in the show, with its long length and finish of wood and berries, coming to the Spring Classics Catalogue), Niepoort Vertente 2001 Douro ($36.40, more affordable, good depth, March Vintages), Niepoort Batuta 2003 Douro ($104, but it knocks your socks off, not available – yet), and from the last table, the other Garrafeira: Tapada de Coelheiros Garrafeira 2001 Alentejo at $96, with its large cabernet sauvignon component, very enjoyable and warm. The Food: basic cheeses and fruits and biscuits, plastic wrapped buns of ham. And people were hungry. The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85. PRODUCTS TASTED IN JANUARY 2006 Konzelmann Pinot Grigio 2004 Reserve, $19.95 at winery: 12.5% alcohol, relatively full-bodied for an Italian style pinot grigio, full of citric zest, good with food beyond the first course. Konzelmann Gewurztraminer Late Harvest 2004, +200550 winery, $16.95, 13% alcohol: off-dry, sugar code of 2, but with plenty of Alsatian body and finishing bitterness and spices. Multiple medal award winner. For a full bottle, this is a good buy. Konzelmann Riesling 2004, +200501, $10.60, off-dry at sugar code 1, with the apples and lemons that Konzelmann is well-known for. 12.5% alcohol. Multiple medal award winner. Virgin Vines Chardonnay 2004 California, $13.95 Vintages, is another marketing branded wine, this time in a Bordeaux-shaped bottle with painted label (lots of writing here since it is in two languages). It is the first wine in the industry to use a cork-free screw top closure called BOB (Best of Both Worlds). 13.5% alcohol, described as a “cool, crisp white” with citric and vanillin tones from slight oak aging. Saint Donatus Lellei Lake Balaton Muskotaly Cuvee 2004 Hungary, $12.95, +608497 Vintages, 12% alcohol, is fragrant, off-dry, freshly grapey with nuances of peaches and some citric tones with sufficient acid for a carry through at the dinner table. Konzelmann Pinot Noir Barrel Aged 2003, $29.95 at winery, 12.5% alcohol, shows a load of black fruit and French oak influences, but in a Bordeaux-shaped bottle. Fresh, but a cellar keeper. Konzelmann Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004, winery, price $12.95, barrel aged in French oak (Allier and Nevers), shows both read and black fruit, smoke and toast, mocha tones, needs cellaring to smooth out. Konzelmann Zweigelt Reserve 2004, 12%, winery, price $14.95, made from a cross between Lemburger and St.Laurent grapes, found often in German and Austria. This is soft, easy drinking, ruby coloured, spices dominate the freshness. Drink young. Virgin Vines Shiraz 2004 California, $13.95 Vintages: marketing and branded similar to the chardonnay above, and described as “a big, bold red wine full of attitude” with some oak aging. Colio Estate CEV Colio Negri Signature Merlot 2002, $59.95: this is the third in the 25th Anniversary Edition series of super-premium VQA red wines (the other previously released wines were the Signature Meritage and Cabernet Sauvignon). 13% alcohol, 14 days skin contact, 26 months in new European oak. Plummy, a bit leafy but with toasty mocha tones, showing some cabernet sauvignon-like complexity in flavours, resembling its baby brother the CEV Merlot Reserve 2002 ($24.95) which was my favourite red of the evening at the Ontario Wine Society in September. A cellar keeper, of course.