The
Canadian Railway Romance
For many people yours truly included
railways and railway travel still have a romantic appeal. I'm
not talking mushy Hollywood romance (although trains have always been
a convenient microcosm for that kind of sentiment); rather my reference
is to a more comprehensive and historical sense of the term romantic.
Romance is from the French roman,
meaning novel. Originally the roman was a long medieval narrative in
prose or poetry that celebrated adventures and heroic exploits. These
were stories that had mysterious or fascinating qualities, and more
often than not a strange beauty that captivated the listener's imagination.
Such tales were communicated orally and usually were based on real events.
The stories also had a lyrical and sentimental quality to them, and
because they contained themes of universal significance they resonated
deeply with the listeners. Kind of like a distant train whistle on a
dark night.
In Canada, the building of the transcontinental
railway linking east with west was much more than a public
building project; it was nation-building and the internalization in
the Canadian consciousness of nationhood. It's story is a great Canadian
romance.
Railways still play an important role
in the transportation infrastructure of Canada and there are still some
great railway excursions to be had in this country. (See the links further
down this page.) And when you travel by train in Canada, you are travelling
along some of the most poignant and historic routes in Canadian history.
To truly appreciate how the Canadian
railways built this nation, you have only to hear the story of what
in Canada is known as "The National Dream." (I'll get to that
in a moment.) And if you stay in one of the great Canadian railway hotels,
you will be part of the dream.
What are the great Canadian railway
hotels?
The great railway age in Canada is not a thing of the past; you can
experience it first hand in any of the great railway hotels that today
are found across Canada. Each of these hotels is a destination, a landmark,
and a thing of beauty in itself. Each of the hotels I am about to introduce
you to is an archive of Canadian history and a romantic moment in time
in the Canadian narrative. And while some are stunning geographical
points of reference in the Canadian landscape, others serve as unifying
focal points for the cities and communities in which they are found.
To Canadians, the names themselves evoke the Canadian "sense of
place":
The Algonquin (St. Andrews, New Brunswick); Le Château Frontenac
(Quebec City); Le Château Montebello (Montebello, Québec);
The Queen Elizabeth (Montréal); The Château Laurier (Ottawa);
The Royal York (Toronto); Château Lake Louise, Jasper Park Lodge,
Banff Springs Hotel (Alberta); The Empress (Victoria, British Columbia)
to mention a few.
The above also represent a Canadian hop, skip, and jump from east to
west, an ideal itinerary for an initiation into the Canadian experience.
The hotels were built primarily by two of Canada's great railway companies:
the Canadian Pacific Railway and the Canadian National Railway. Each
hotel is an architectural gem, and all are located in some of the most
spectacular scenery you can imagine. (That was part of the reason some
of them were built; to attract travellers to undiscovered areas in Canada.)
And some of the hotels are located on the most historic real estate
in Canada, an easy stroll from the impressive lobbies to the best of
Canadian history, heritage, and culture.
These hotels also represent some of the best "value-added"
accommodation you will find in Canada. There is no additional charge
for the view, for the history that whispers throughout their corridors,
for their strategic locations, for their unique architectural and aesthetic
appeal, and for the Canadiana that each embodies.
Whether it is:
- a hotel that is also the largest log building in the world;
- a "Château style" edifice with granite walls and
a copper roof;
- a hotel that is unofficially known as "The Third Chamber of
Parliament" (where behind closed doors, politicians conduct the
gloves off, straight-talking business of governing that is never seen
on the news or in the House of Commons);
- a world-class golfing destination;
- a glorious structure in the equally glorious heart of the Canadian
Rockies;
- an august and classical example of an urban hotel at the core of
the commercial capital of Canada;
- a gracious memento of the British Empire (afternoon tea and all);
- or a favourite venue from the big band era,
each hotel is a tourist attraction in itself.
Have you got your bags packed?
(If you can't wait to read the rest of this material and want to get
right to it, go to www.fairmont.ca.
However, if you hang on a bit, you might pick up some information that
will create a fuller context in which you can view these unique hotels.
Hyperlinks below will take you on a cybertour of some of the hotels.)
The Fairmont Phenomenon
Today, each of these hotels is a member of the Fairmont Hotels and
Resorts chain, a Canadian company, and the largest luxury hotel management
company in North America. (Most people are surprised to learn that Fairmont
also owns or manages famed hotels such as The Plaza in New York, the
Acapulco Princess, The San Francisco Fairmont, and numerous other properties
internationally.) Not bad for a bunch of 19th-century railroaders.)
As I have suggested above, there is a century of history embedded in
the Fairmont group of properties that has a direct tie to the building
of a railway through some of the most rugged and least populated terrain
on the continent.
To make a long and fascinating story relatively short, the Canadian
Pacific Railway (CPR) eventually also got into the sale of land and
the settling of immigrants in Canada's West, the shipping business (passenger
and cargo), mining and metallurgy, armaments and other material (during
the Second World War), the telegraph business, the airline business
(CPAir/Canadian Airlines International), oil and gas, corporate real
estate, highway transportation, telecommunications, and the hotel business.
And before you could say "All aboard," the company whose
first passenger train left Montréal on June 28, 1886 and arrived
six days later in Port Moody, British Columbia, had become a very big
deal.
Today, like a trumpet flourish, the name of each of the hotels in the
chain is preceded by "Fairmont."
We Call Him "Sir John A."
When Canada came into being with Confederation in 1867, it was made
up of four provinces: Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Québec, and
Ontario. The rest of the country from the Ontario border west was still
under British control. The first prime minister of this new Dominion
of Canada was John Alexander Macdonald; the principal creative mind
behind the British North America Act that created Canada. A determined
man and highly partisan politician, Macdonald was also an anglophile
and consequently became a fervent Canadian nationalist. His national
policy emphasized high tariffs on imports, especially those from the
United States, in order to protect Canadian manufacturing. He was also
not adverse to playing on anti-American feeling to achieve his goal
of a strong and highly centralized form of government that held dominance
over the provinces that previously had been British colonies. Macdonald's
nationalistic feelings were primarily central and English-Canadian and
he was always wary of what he saw as the threat of political and economic
influences coming from the new republic to the south. It was indeed
a North America true to British traditions that he aimed to achieve
in his nation-building plans. (It is not surprising therefore that the
British government made him Knight Commander of the Bath even before
he became Canada's first prime minister.)
His government dominated Canadian politics for half a century and his
principal preoccupation during his second administration was to create
a unified Canada from coast to coast by means of building a transcontinental
railway. Given the distances, the vast empty spaces to the west, and
the almost impenetrable terrain; it was a formidable task. (It had to
cross the Rockies and the Canadian Shield, the latter a huge area of
ancient mountains, forest, and tundra that covers much of Canada like
a shield with Hudson's Bay as its centre..) But Macdonald was no slacker,
although he was a heavy drinker. He knew that all that westward ho activity
south of the 49th parallel was a potential threat to Canadian sovereignty.
He knew he had to get Canada's act together.
And the route he chose was a (very expensive) all-Canadian route across
the Prairies and through the Rocky Mountains. In theory he could have
built part of the route through the northern part of the American Midwest
many Canadians today travelling by car from east to west often
take the "southern" route but this railway was to be
the Canadian transcontinental. Whether Macdonald actually realized
it himself or articulated it, the building of such a railway would prove
to be one of the first key steps in Canada's becoming an autonomous
nation on the world stage.
And so a railway was built and market demand was built along with it.
It was this "ribbon of steel" that led to the settlement of
the Canadian west. And the completion of the railway was actually a
precondition for British Columbia's joining the Canadian Confederation
in 1871. Although it was eventually built by a private company, it was
done so with great sums of public tax revenues. Longer than the first
U.S. transcontinental railway by 1600 kilometres, this railway was also
an enormous engineering feat. It would require another kind of leadership.
And that's where Sir William comes in.
Sir William Cornelius Van Horne
Ironically, it would be a kid from Chelsea, Illinois (born 1843), a
telegrapher at the age of 14 with the Illinois Central Railroad, and
general superintendent of the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad
by the age of 37 who would be the dreammaker of Macdonald's Canadian
transcontinental railway. And he too would be knighted in the process.
All he had to do was build a railway.
Railway history of course has always been about nation-building. (We're
talking steam here.) By 1844 in the British Isles, the rapid expansion
and promotion of railroads was called "The Mania." And as
early as 1841, Canadians were beginning to become equally manic. Although
our water routes were fortuitously well-designed by nature, roads were
very rudimentary and of course the winter freeze-up didn't make it any
easier to get from A to B.
Our system of canals was an effective way to transport people, goods,
and troops but it would only be railroads that could extend real ownership
of the land into new territories.
|
|
|
|
|
|
A number of smaller railroads were built in the east as well as some
major ones: the Intercolonial Railway, the Great Western Railway, and
the Grand Trunk Railway are examples. One of their objectives of course
was to tap into traffic from the U.S. but also to open up the Canadian
hinterland around the Great Lakes, which of course they did. The great
railway rush created an exponential industry; creating a demand for
fuel, iron, and steel for itself, as well as all the amenities required
along the way; hotels of course being one of them. Most of all they
provided jobs.
Van Horne was pretty much a jack of all trades. Today we would say
he had lots of transferrable skills, perhaps even refer to him as a
Renaissance Man. He certainly was a person who did not shy away from
the grand and grandiose. His aesthetic tastes were as eclectic as his
abilities; he owned many art treasures including an impressive collection
of Japanese paintings and drawings. He obviously had an eye for architectural
design and style, and as an amateur architect he even helped design
two of the best-known of these hotels: Banff Springs Hotel and Québec's
Château Frontenac. The former is a property that initially was
far from the tourist route. Van Horne's response to that was, "If
we can't export the scenery, we'll import the tourists." So he
built a hotel to blend in with the natural environment as if found in
situ. Like Macdonald, he was a visionary.
Sir William retired as president of the CPR in 1899 but he didn't sit
around playing with model trains. He went on to build another national
railroad, this time in Cuba. And when he died at the age of 72, the
CPR paid tribute to him by stopping all operations for a day. Cuba held
a day of mourning for him. And then the trains started to run again.
A Transcontinental Railway + Passengers
= Hotels
In Canada, the historical tradition of lodging travellers is founded
on two fundamental types of accommodation; the roadside inn and the
urban hotel. As a nation being built through a natural wilderness of
forests, lakes, and formidable terrain, the need for food and housing
for the entrepreneurs and early leisure explorers followed the "King's
Highway" or later, the railways. In the cities where trade and
commerce in the abundant natural resources especially grew, the hotels
often became as much public venues as city halls, railway stations often
built in a similar style, and other official buildings. Growth was rapid,
distances great, and the need for social interaction critical. Thus
the hotel became far more than a temporary residence; it became a social
institution in itself. And given the iconic history and traditions of
many of the Fairmont hotels in Canada, many of these grand hotels continue
to serve a purpose that goes beyond food and lodging.
Although the chain has now also built newer hotels (still in some of
the most spectacular or strategic settings in Canada), most of the hotels
are very much in a baronial style that embody our European roots. This
is especially true of the hotels that are described as "château
style."
Reminiscent But Indigenous Styles
Château style is distinctly Canadian although of course
it pays homage to European grandeur. Some architecture aficionados also
refer to the style as châteauesque. It was a style that
was also adopted for public buildings in Canada in the 19th century,
in part because the materials, such as hardwoods, granite, and limestone
were readily available.
When you stand back and admire a Château Frontenac, a Château
Lake Louise, and even an urban hotel like Toronto's Royal York, you
will see a design that represents a free-flowing style (often asymetrical)
in keeping with a new land where space was not limited. Backlit, the
châteaux are extremely photogenic; their sculpted silhouettes,
steep rooflines, high dormer windows, miscellaneous towers and turrets,
and chimneys thrust skyward are a fanciful and romantic vision. However,
they are also solid structures that make grand statements announcing
clearly that we are here to stay; we are not just passing through.
Other hotels in the chain have a more manorial or seigneurial style
which, like the château style, suggests entitlement and grandeur,
but also the confidence and self-determination that is the essence of
a nation that honours its roots while asserting at the same time its
North American character. Although the château style derives from
a number of sources one can refer to French Renaissance, Gothic,
Second Empire, Scottish baronial, Loire Valley, or neo-medieval
in the end, we just call it château style, as eclectic as Canada.
Time For A Visit
OK. Go for it.
In order to view all the hotels in the Fairmont chain, go to www.fairmont.ca.
Below are some of my favourites with a few facts about each that I
hope will kindle your sense of the romantic. Each webpage will also
give you access to the full history of each hotel or resort. Slideshows
and other images also allow you to take a virtual tour of some of the
most important and beautiful sites in Canada. Check out the value-added
packages that each hotel offers and don't forget to factor in the truly
"inclusive" value of these properties.
1. Le Château Frontenac, Québec City,
Québec (www.fairmont.com/frontenac)
For most visitors, Le Château Frontenac is Québec
City. Built by Van Horne over a century ago on Québec's high
promontory overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence River, the hotel seems
at first glance to be something out of a fantasy. However, it's imposing
demeanor, castle-like architecture, and its views of this strategic
historic location where France lost Nouvelle France to Britain symbolize
the formidable drama and power of history.
2. Château Laurier, Ottawa, Ontario (www.fairmont.com/laurier)
This centrepiece of Canada's national capital manages to communicate
opulence, dignity, charm, history, and continuity without appearing
self-indulgent or excessive. Like so many in the Fairmont chain, it
is in many ways a public venue where guests, locals, and tourists
mingle. At the same time, it is where visiting royalty, celebrities,
heads of state, and high-ranking politicians stay and work. There
are many stories in the Château Laurier. If you can find it,
the book Meet Me At the Château by Joan Rankin is a terrific
read. The book tells the inside story of a hotel in which Canadian
political and social history are part of the amenities. Often referred
to as "the gateway to the nation's capital," the Château
is at the heart of this elegant capital city and within walking distance
of Parliament, key historical sites, and some of the most important
art galleries and museums in Canada.
3. Banff Springs Hotel, Banff, Alberta (www.fairmont.com/banffsprings)
Banff Springs is a complete destination in all seasons, and a crystal-clear
window on the Canadian Rockies. In addition to the other inclusive
amenities I have suggested, here you also get world-class skiing,
golf, wilderness activities, and elk eating on the front lawn. A natural
spa with hot springs nearby, this is one of the best examples of Van
Horne's goal of bringing the tourists to the scenery, because there
is no way you can bring these breathaking views home in your backpack.
4. Château Lake Louise (www.fairmont.com/lakelouise)
The Fairmont promotional material for these Alberta
properties calls them "Legends of the Canadian Rockies."
The term legend is quite appropriate given the railway history that
goes with them. When the CPR surveyor Tom Wilson wrote in his diary,
"As God is my judge, I never in all my explorations saw such
a matchless scene," he expressed the awe that first-time visitors
to Lake Louise still experience today. Have you ever had the kind
of moment when the beauty is so overwelming that you literally have
difficulty believing your eyes? Well that's Lake Louise. Named after
Queen Victoria's daughter, this resort is indeed majestic. From a
writer's point of view, it is an experience that tests your mettle
as a wordsmith. Describing it is a major challenge.
5. The Empress Hotel (www.fairmont.com/empress)
This property underscores the British in British Columbia.
Tradition, empire-building, and colonial history are themes that are
written all over the place. The setting of course is marvellous and
simply lots of fun. The Empress is the perfect location for sitting
quietly over tea (or perhaps in the Bengal Lounge) and reading Paul
Scott's The Raj Quartet, Rohinton Mistray's A Fine Balance,
or Vikram Seth's A Suitable Boy. As I said to the Duchess just
last week, "It's all quite delightful."
6. Le Manoir Richelieu (www.fairmont.com/richelieu)
There is something very unpredictable about the Manoir.
It's not just its sudden appearance as you come upon it driving along
the north shore of the St. Lawrence. It's the almost incongruous setting
of such a grand property in a pastoral landscape very much off the
beaten track (but quite accessible). Would you have thought golf and
whale-watching go together? This is poetic Québécois
countryside (the region of Charlevoix). It has also been a favourite
fishing destination (salmon) for quite some time since 1761.
7. The Royal York Hotel (www.fairmont.com/royalyork)
A landmark around which the city of Toronto has grown, the Royal
York is also right across the street from Union Station, one of the
most impressive and classic railway stations in Canada. Both are reminiscent
of the great railway age. Like so many of these hotels, the interiors
of the Royal York are magnificent: hand-painted ceilings, lofty pillars,
classic furnishings, and chandeliers. Although a previous historic
hotel stood on this spot near the waterfront, The Canadian Pacific
Railway began construction on "the largest hotel in the British
Commonwealth" in 1927, and when it opened it was also the tallest
building in the Commonwealth. It was luxury and innovation; each of
the 1048 rooms had radios and private bathtubs or showers, not to
mention a 12-bed hospital, library, concert hall with a 50-ton pipe
organ, a glass-enclosed roof garden, a bakery, its own golf course,
and copper wiring.
8. Hotel Vancouver (www.fairmont.com/hotelvancouver)
This hotel was opened in May 1939 just in time for the historic visit
of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (the Queen Mum). Their visit
was especially significant as they were the first reigning monarchs
to visit Canada. The visit of course was a "promotional tour"
to rally support for the war and indeed their presence on Canadian
soil did encourage many people to support Britain. Their tour was
also significant because they crossed the country from east to west
by train, stopping en route at many of the hotels mentioned here.
9. Le Reine Elizabeth (www.fairmont.com/queenelizabeth)
One of the later railway hotels (1958), the Queen Elizabeth is situated
atop Montréal's extensive underground city which includes the
gare centrale/VIA Rail passenger train station. It is also
home to the oldest private club in Canada, the Beaver Club (founded
in 1758). Like many of these hotels, the Queen Elizabeth was also
a favourite and frequent stage for world-class entertainers such as
Montreal-born Oscar Peterson, Tony Bennett, Liberace, Carol Channing,
and Harry Belafonte. The hotel was also a political stage for John
Lennon and Yoko Ono. It was here that they held their famous "Bed-In
for Peace" in 1969 (suite 1742) and where they composed "Give
Peace A Chance." The celebrity guest list is a who's who of The
Queen Elizabeth is also right next door to the impressive Marie-Reine-du-Monde
cathedral, another landmark in Montréal.
10. Jasper Park Lodge (www.fairmont.com/jasper)
One of the "Legends of the Canadian Rockies," this 903-acre
resort began as an eight-bungalow wilderness retreat at the turn of
the (20th) century. On the shores of Lac Beauvert and in the middle
of the 4200-square mile Jasper National Park, it is especially known
for its winter activities and its internationally acclaimed Stanley
Thompson-designed golf course. "They" have all been here
too of course: Marilyn Monroe, Bing Crosby, John Travolta, the Dixie
Chicks, Bill Gates, the Rockefellers, the Kennedys, Sir Arthur Conan
Doyle, yours truly... oh and Queen Elizabeth. If you saw the films
River of No Return, The Far Country, or The Emperor
Waltz, you too visited Jasper Park Lodge.
11. Le Château Montebello (www.fairmont.com/montebello)
The largest log building in the world (a cedar château),
Le Château Montebello was built in 1930 and is still a construction
marvel. (It only took four months to build, and to begin construction
the crew first built a spur line from the nearby Canadian Pacific
Railway.) It was Harold Saddlemire, a Swiss-American, who conceived
of what he called "Lucerne-in-Québec"; this is château
style à la suisse. For 40 years it was a private retreat
for the Seigniory Club, whose members included such dignitaries as
Canadian Prime Minister (and Nobel Peace Prize Award-winner) Lester
B. Pearson, and Prince Rainier and Princess Grace of Monaco. It is
built on the site of what in the 17th-century was (during the French
regime in North America) a seigneurial estate acquired in 1674 from
the West Indies Company by Bishop Laval, the first bishop of Québec
and a name you will hear throughout Québec.As the site of numerous
historic international political conferences, this not-so-little log
lodge has hosted important political figures such as Ronald Reagan,
Margaret Thatcher, François Mitterand, and of course Canada's
charismatic Pierre Elliott Trudeau.
12. The Algonquin (www.fairmont.com/algonquin)
Do you prefer your golf with a little history? Then
the Algonquin is your kind of resort. This is Canada's first seaside
resort town and a quintessential Maritime province experience. In
the loyalist town of St. Andrews by-the-ea in New Brunswick (a National
Historic District), it was originally an enterprise of the St. Andrew's
Land Company and established (by wealthy U.S. businessmen) in 1883.
A North American-style spa resort, guests arrived (of course) by train
and the property eventually came under the ownership of the Canadian
Pacific Railway. On the shores of Passamaquoddy Bay in the Bay of
Fundy, it is golf heaven. And because of their sensitive seaside location
, the Algonquin courses are role models of environmentally-friendly
golf course management. A full services and great getaway destination,
the Algonquin is not just for golfers however. One of the most spectacular
"hands-across-the-border" sites for Canadian and American
visitors especially, the Algonquin is at the heart of Canadian history.
Want To Travel Across
Canada By Train?
VIA Rail, Canada's national railway
passenger service has a new one-stop-shopping website. For more information
on the famous railway trips in Canada and on IA packages, go to www.viarail.ca/package
The private company Rocky Mountaineer Railtours (www.rockymountaineer.com)
is also an excellent resource.
Life in a Canadian Château
The Château Laurier in Ottawa is a personal favourite of mine.
It is also a great example of the hotel as more than just a place to
sleep and eat. And it is one of the best examples of how these hotels
have played a very significant role in the shaping of Canadian life.
Joan Rankin's book Meet Me At the Château tells it all.
In the book she demonstrates how such a hotel is a living entity in
itself and she includes some great Canadian hotel anecdotes. Here are
some examples.
Ottawa's premier hotel was commissioned by American-born Charles
Melville Hays, General Manager of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway
of Canada. Unfortunately Hays never saw his dream to completion; he
was one of the many who died in the Titanic disaster. Memorial services
were held for him in London and Montreal. The entire Grand Trunk system
(railway and steamship) throughout Canada, Britain, and the United
States came to a complete halt for five minutes in tribute to Hays.
Sir Wilfrid Laurier remains one of Canada's most respected prime
ministers. Elected in 1896, he is still known for his moderate liberalism.
The Grand Trunk (then owner of the Château) commissioned a marble
bust of him for the lobby. (You can still see it today). Laurier however
was not impressed. He wasn't happy with the nose which he saw during
a private viewing. The bust had been dropped, the nose chipped, and
repaired badly. He left the hotel rather upset but still was the first
person to sign the hotel's register.
Typical of hotels of the early 1900s, the Château had budget-minded
dormitories for traveling salespeople, one for men and five for women.
No private baths but the conveniences were just down the hall.
The Château was the spot for coming out balls. (These were
debutantes. Funny how language changes according to contemporary values.)
Lavish receptions took place in the ballroom in the presence of the
Governor General and his wife.
In 1916 Canadian Prime Minister Sir Robert Borden was given a magnificent
reception at the Château when he returned from England where
he attended a meeting of the British Cabinet. The occasion was precedent-setting
because never before had a Canadian politician been received on an
equal footing with British cabinet ministers. It may sound a bit strange
today, but Canada was seen to be coming of age.
The Château was one of the first sites for a radio station
Canada and continued over the years to be a broadcasting centre. In
1927, the country celebrated its Diamond Jubilee with a radio broadcast
from the Château, also carried live by WWJ in Detroit for the
benefit of American listeners. The inaugural concert of the Parliament's
Peace Tower 53-bell carillon was also carried live on CKCH (the original
call letters).
This story may be a bit apocryphal but ... when a new a east wing
was added to the Château with a new shiny copper roof (to match
the other roof which in turn was a reflection of the roofs of the
Parliament Buildings nearby), the aging of the roof (so that it turned
green faster) was allegedly speeded up by a contractor who had his
workers pee in a bucket (when they had occasion or need to do so)
and the urine was used to give the oxidization process a head start.
The four foot-high windows over the front doors of the Château
are from Tiffanys.
When Roy Rogers and Dale Evans checked in they were whisked to their
rooms in an elevator reserved for their exclusive use. Other celebrities
(e.g. Haile Selassie) got the same treatment. No mention is made of
Trigger.
The original Grill Room on Thursday was usually filled to overflowing.
People came for the Thursday special: chicken pot pie!
With the 1929 stock market crash, Ottawa and the Château created
a winter carnival to stimulate the economy. It was advertised far
and wide. Today Ottawa's Winterlude is a major tourist attraction
and hometown event.
The First Imperial Economic Conference to be held outside London,
took place in Ottawa and of course all the delegates ("and their
wives") were accommodated at the Château.
The Art Deco swimming pool (you can still see it and swim in it today
... and must) was part of a complex hydrotherapy indoor spa in the
Château.
One of the early managers, a certain Mr. Aylett, was renowned for
being a tough but very competent and respected manager. Staff and
even some guests were somewhat intimidated by him. He had standards
and expected everyone to abide by them. One frequent guest who unfortunately
was bent on suicide checked out of the hotel and took cheaper accommodations
because apparently he feared Mr. Aylett's displeasure. Another prominent
citizen had taken a lady of the night to his room. (The lobby staff
knew them all ... the ladies I mean ... and only because it was their
job to know who was coming and going.) When the night clerk telephoned
his room and advised the gentleman that "visiting hours"
were over but the lady stayed on, the clerk went to the room and opened
the door slightly with a master key. From inside was heard, "In
the name of the Father, Son and Holy Ghost, she'll be right out."
The standards of Mr. Aylett lived on.
During the Second World War, the Château was the site of many
secret military conferences. Important military and industrial leaders
quietly entered the hotel from a tunnel connecting the hotel to the
train station across the street.
When Winston Churchill visited Ottawa (and stayed at the Château)
he gave his famous address to the joint session of the House of Commons
and the Senate. In response to the Vichy French officer who predicted
that England would "have her neck wrung like a chicken,"
Churchill replied (carried live on radio) "Some chicken ... some
neck!"
One of the most prominent radio announcers during the Second World
War who broadcast from the Château was known as the "voice
of doom" because in his deep baritone he relayed the terrible
news from correspondents overseas. Canadians also knew him as Lorne
Greene, later Pa Cartwright on a ranch called Bonanza.
In 1987 the Château management held an "amnesty"
during which all materials that had been, shall we say "borrowed"
from the Château, could be returned. Objects such as a Sèvres
china urn and matching candlesticks, a soda water siphon, china beer
steins bearing the hotel's motif, and a carved mahogany beaver were
some of the items returned.
There was one mysterious murder that occurred at the hotel. The wife
was charged but later acquitted. The number was taken off the door,
the room converted to a suite, and occupied for a long time by the
Québec government.
During Canada's centennial celebrations in 1967, 54 heads of state
or their representatives paid visits to Ottawa, most of them staying
of course at the Château.
Many prominent people actually lived at the hotel, Pierre Trudeau
being one of them (before his election as prime minister and before
his marriage). One of these was the world-famous photographer Yousuf
Karsh, known professionally as "Karsh of Ottawa." His portraits
of world leaders and personalities such as Einstein, Martin Luther
King Jr., Eleanor Roosevelt, Ernest Hemingway, Audrey Hepburn, Mother
Teresa are now legendary images. One of his most famous is that of
a defiant Churchill. This image came to represent the courage of Britain
during the war. During the photo shoot in Karsh's studio in the Château,
Churchill was posing with his customary cigar in hand. At the last
moment, Karsh stepped forward and removed the cigar from the great
man's hand. Needless to say, Churchill was not pleased and put on
his very best scowl.
When Karsh left Ottawa and moved to Boston, he left behind as a gift
to the Château, copies of his books and photographs. These can
still be seen today and are very much part of the living history of
the Château Laurier.
|